March is here, and some turkey seasons have already opened. With that, it is time to look into the best states for hunting turkeys this season. Though recent years have seen a decline in overall turkey populations across the U.S., states are adjusting their regulations to help level these fluctuating numbers to ensure that the wild turkey—and these hunting opportunities—will be around for generations to come.

If your home state made the list, then you’re in luck, grab a tag and get in the field. If you are living in a state where turkey hunting isn’t very accessible, maybe it’s time to fill up the gas tank and hit the road. These states made the list after considering current populations estimates, season length, bag limits and opportunity for the traveling hunter. Here are the seven best states to hunt turkeys this spring.

Table of Contents

• California
• Mississippi
• Alabama
• Tennessee
• Texas
• Maine
• South Dakota

California

Coming in at number one is California. Though it might be known as one of the most extreme states for attacking our hunting heritage, California can be a great state to chase turkeys. The population there is a true conservation success story. Just ten years ago the population was down around 250,000. But now, with an estimated population nearing 400,000 birds, California is a gold mine. Season runs from March 25th until the end of April and each hunter is allotted a bag limit of three gobblers per season. With three of the four subspecies needed to complete the Grand Slam and decent public-land access, the Golden State could easily be considered the top sleeper state for turkeys.

Season Dates: General Season – Mar 25 – Apr 30; Archery Only – May 1 – 14

Tag Cost: $75.60/resident; $210.34/non-resident

California Department of Fish and Wildlife

Mississippi

If you don’t want to head all the way to the West Coast, try the great state of Mississippi. This allows you to kick off your season down South with the earliest opener of the year on this list. With a turkey population of just over a quarter million birds, the ‘Sip season starts on March 15th and runs through the beginning of May. With ample amounts of public land throughout the entire state, there’s no shortage of hunting opportunity. Although, the Mississippi Delta is a region worth homing in on when planning your trip. Mississippi has a generous bag limit of three gobblers with beards six inches or longer and hunters took more than 22,000 birds last season. It’s easy to see why Mississippi ranks so high and it’s a great option to chase a swamp bird this spring.

Season Dates: Mar 15 – May 1

Tag Cost: $27.29/resident; $212.50/ 7-day non-resident

Mississippi Department of Wildlife, Fisheries, & Parks

Alabama

Alabama is one of the states that has seen a slight decline in overall turkey numbers in recent years, but still boasts a population of 365,000 birds. With the highest bag limit of any state on this list, you can take one gobbler per day, not to exceed four total for the spring and fall seasons. Zone 1 opens on March 25th but doesn’t allow decoy use until April 4th; Zone 2 opens April 1st with decoys legal to use on April 11th. Alabama has an abundance of public land for hunters to try their luck on, but just as with most southern states, hunting pressure could be high. But it’d be hard pressed to not have Bama in the top three.

Season Dates: Zone 1 & 3: Mar 25 – May 8; Zone 2: Apr 1 – May 8

Tag Cost: $30.25/resident; $216.20/ 10-day non-resident

Alabama Department of Conservation and Natural Resources

Tennessee

Coming in at the fourth spot is Tennessee. With a liberal bag limit and lengthy season, I’d definitely volunteer to go there this season. Tennessee has a healthy population of more than 250,000 birds, a good amount of public land from the hills to the hollers and a season spanning six weeks. If you haven’t stood on a ridge in the dawning of a new day and heard the echoes of gobbles ringing out in multiple directions, you’re flat missing out. Make sure to put Tennessee on your list and try your wits against one of these eastern toms.

Season Dates: Apr 15 – May 28

Tag Cost: $66/resident; $214/ 7-day non-resident

Tennessee Wildlife Resources Agency

Texas

The old adage of everything is bigger in Texas rings true in regard to turkey hunting this state. With the largest population in the U.S.— over half a million birds—there’s no doubt Texas could be the best place to take a true Rio Grande. Though there are limited public-land opportunities, Texas has numerous management areas that allow access for hunters. This state has multiple season dates to consider depending on where you’ll be hunting as well as varying bag limits, so be sure to read the regulations thoroughly before planning your trip. But with the incredible population and low pressure, it’s easy to see why this state ranks number five as a turkey hunter’s paradise.

Season Dates: Eastern: Apr. 22 – May 14; Rio Grande North Zone: Apr. 1 – May 14; Rio Grande South Zone: Mar. 18 – Apr. 30

Tag Cost: $25/resident; $133/non-resident

Texas Parks and Wildlife Department

Maine

Maine might surprise you as the number six spot on our list due to its small size, but it has a relatively high number of turkeys. This little state in the northeastern part of our country can offer great turkey hunting. It’s also one of the only states that gives you the opportunity to hunt birds all the way into June. There is plenty of publicly accessible land, and it’s one of those states where a door knock, and a handshake, might just get you access to prime ground. With a bag limit of two bearded birds per season, and season dates that allow you to stretch every second out of spring, Maine must be on your list. Don’t overlook the northeast corner of the U.S. for turkey opportunities.

Season Dates: May 1 – June 3

Tag Cost: $46/resident; $115/non-resident

Maine Department of Inland Fisheries and Wildlife

South Dakota

One of the most coveted birds of the Grand Slam is the Merriam’s, and so many turkey hunters dream of notching a tag on one of these birds. That’s why South Dakota must be on this list. With over 2.3 million acres of public land and three quarters of that located around the Black Hills region, those of you looking to fill a tag on a Merriam’s just might be in luck. Though overall numbers have seen a slight downward trend, there is still a dense population along river corridors and a well-established population covering most of this state. Add in a season that runs almost two months, buckle up because it can get a bit western chasing these overly vocal birds.

Season Dates: Single-season Prairie units – Apr 8 – May 31; Black Hills – Apr 22 – May 31

Tag Cost: $25/resident; $100/non-resident

South Dakota Game, Fish and Parks

Maybe you’re like me and love traveling to different states to test your skills against different birds, or maybe you’re chasing that elusive U.S. Super Slam of a bird in each of the 49 states that have an established season. Regardless of your motivation, these seven states are the best places to spend your time chasing gobbles this year. Get out there and enjoy it this spring, we only get so many.

Deer hunting in Oklahoma is available from October 1st until the middle of January, and is regulated by the Oklahoma Department of Wildlife Conservation (ODWC). Different bag restrictions apply to hunting for antlerless deer in each of the state’s 10 antlerless deer zones. All you need to know about deer hunting seasons, permits, and laws in the Sooner State may be found in this page.

Oklahoma Deer Season

Hunting seasons, rules, and bag limits for deer are all established by the Oklahoma Department of Wildlife Conservation (ODWC). Different bag restrictions on antlerless deer are enforced in each of the state’s 10 antlerless deer zones. Both residents and non-residents need a hunting license, with choices including yearly and five-year permits. Depending on the method of hunting (archery, muzzleloader, or firearm), hunters must get the appropriate license. Certain permits are available for young hunters.

General Deer Season

MethodOklahoma Deer Seasons Start DateOklahoma Deer Seasons End DateBag Limits (Deer Archery)1-Oct-2315-Jan-24Six: Only two may be antlered. The hunter’s overall deer archery season quota of six deer is unaffected. (Youth Deer Gun)20-Oct-2322-Oct-23Two: One may be antlered. Antlerless mule deer cannot be harvested. The hunter’s combined season limit of six deer includes all juvenile deer gun season kills, but they do not count against the regular deer gun season limit of four. (Deer Muzzleloader)28-Oct-235-Nov-23Four: one may be antlered. Antlerless mule deer cannot be harvested. Zones limit antlerless animal harvests. Zone 1—No antlerless harvesting. Deer-free zones 2-8. 3-9 antlerless zones. One zone-10 antlerless. Antlerless Deer Zones. The hunter’s six-deer muzzleloader season restriction is unaffected. (Deer Gun)18-Nov-233-Dec-23Four: one may be antlered. Antlerless mule deer cannot be harvested. Zones limit antlerless animal harvests. One zone-1 antlerless deer. Deer-free zones 2-8. 3-9 antlerless zones. One zone-10 antlerless. Antlerless Deer Zones. The hunter’s six-deer season restriction is unaffected. (Holiday Antlerless Deer Gun)18-Dec-2331-Dec-23Two: Solely antlerless. Antlerless mule deer cannot be harvested. Hunters may shoot six deer every season, except holiday antlerless deer gun season deer.

Antlerless Deer Zones

Zone-1

Antlerless Days Zone 1Season Dates Archery SeasonOct 1, 2024 – Jan 15, 2024 Youth Deer Gun SeasonOct 20 – 22, 2024 Muzzleloader SeasonNo antlerless days Deer Gun SeasonNov 18 – Dec 3, 2024 Holiday Antlerless Deer Gun SeasonClosed

Zones 2, 7 & 8 (Oklahoma Antlerless Days)

Zones 2, 7 & 8 (Oklahoma Antlerless Days)Hunting Dates Archery SeasonOct 1, 2024 – Jan 15, 2024 Youth Deer Gun SeasonOct 20 – 22, 2024 Muzzleloader SeasonOct 28 – Nov 5, 2024 Deer Gun SeasonNov 18 – Dec 3, 2024 Holiday Antlerless Deer Gun SeasonDec 18 – 31, 2024

Zones 3, 4, 5, 6 & 9 (Antlerless Days)

Zones 3, 4, 5, 6 & 9 (Oklahoma Antlerless Days)Hunting Dates Archery SeasonOct 1, 2024 – Jan 15, 2024 Youth Deer Gun SeasonOct 20 – 22, 2024 Muzzleloader SeasonOct 28 – Nov 5, 2024 Deer Gun SeasonNov 18 – Dec 3, 2024 Holiday Antlerless Deer Gun SeasonDec 18 – 31, 2024

Zone-10 (Antlerless Days)

Zone 10 (Oklahoma Antlerless Days)Hunting Dates Archery SeasonOct 1, 2024 – Jan 15, 2024 Youth Deer Gun SeasonOct 20 – 22, 2024 Muzzleloader SeasonOct 28 – Nov 5, 2024 Deer Gun SeasonNov 18 – Dec 3, 2024 Holiday Antlerless Deer Gun SeasonDec 18 – 31, 2024

Bag Limit:

Deer hunters are only allowed to harvest a total of six deer throughout the season, with only two of those animals allowed to have antlers. The same holds true for other forms of hunting, such as young deer gun, muzzleloader, and gun seasons for deer. The last year total season restriction will be applied to any deer harvested between January 1 and January 15. Antlerless deer killed during the holiday antlerless deer gun season or during a controlled hunt do not count against the combined season quota.

Elk Hunting Seasons

Elk Consolidated Season Limit

SpeciesDateBag Limit ElkJan. 1 – Jan. 31, Two ElkArchery, youth elk gun, elk muzzleloader, elk gun, holiday antlerless elk gun seasonsTwo Controlled huntsNot Included Total Combined SeasonTwo

Open Zones Seasons

TypeHunting Dates Elk ArcheryOct 1, 2024 – Jan 15, 2024 Youth Elk GunOct 13, 2024 – Oct 15, 2024 Elk MuzzleloaderOct 28, 2024 – Nov 5, 2024 Elk GunNov 18, 2024 – Dec 3, 2024 Holiday Antlerless Elk GunDec 18, 2024 – Dec 31, 2024

Elk Open Zones Bag Limit

Zone NameBag Limit Panhandle ZoneTwo elk (1 antlerless) Special Northwest ZoneOne elk, regardless of sex Northwest ZoneOne elk, regardless of sex Northeast ZoneOne elk, regardless of sex Southeast ZoneOne elk, regardless of sex Southwest ZoneOne elk, regardless of sex

Special Southwest Zone

Elk Special Southwest Zone SeasonHunting Dates ArcheryOct 7-11, 2024 Dec 2-6, 2024 MuzzleloaderSeason closed GunOct 5-8, 2024 Dec 7-10, 2024 Youth Elk GunOct 13-15, 2024 Additional Antlerless Gun Season (antlerless only)Nov 18 – Dec 3, 2024 Jan 1-31, 2024

Note:

• Limit of two (2) elk per hunter per zone; one (1) must be antlerless.
• There is no harvest quota in this zone.

Regulations

• You must first get permission from the owner to hunt on private land.

• It is prohibited to have a deer that was taken by another individual without the proper tags.

• Hunting from a motorized land, air, or sea vehicle is prohibited, as is firing over a public road, highway, or railroad.

• Prime shooting time is between half an hour before sunrise and half an hour after dark.

• While it is prohibited to employ dogs for deer hunting, you may use a leashed dog to locate a fallen buck if you first notify a game warden.

• It is forbidden to bury a dead animal in a water source such as a well, spring, pond, or stream, or to leave the corpse of a dead animal within a quarter mile of an occupied structure or public road.

• Hunters must wear at least 400 square inches of hunter daylight bright orange, including a hat and clothing, to meet with requirements.
• The total season deer bag limit is six; however, only two may be antlerless (defined as having at least 3 inches of antler protruding above the hairline).

• Remember the following rules to prevent weapon accidents: Always assume a weapon is loaded, point the muzzle away from yourself and others, keep your finger off the trigger until you are ready to fire, and be aware of what is beyond your objective.

• Keep broadheads covered, choose your target deer, and ensure there are no other deer or people in the area.

• Hunters should understand how to correctly climb and secure tree stands, and they should always use a full-body safety harness and a safety line to avoid accidents from falls.

• Rather of lugging anything up the ladder, climb above it and stroll down into it. The hauling is done by hand.

• Dogs are not permitted to be used to hunt bears, deer, elk, antelope, or turkeys.

• The hunter has 24 hours after leaving the hunting area to report his or her capture to the Department, whether it be a deer, elk, antelope, bear, or turkey. Following the submission of a report, a body tag or online confirmation number will be supplied. This tag or confirmation number must accompany the corpse at all phases of processing and storage at a commercial facility.

• No person shall take, attempt to take, catch, capture, kill, or attempt to kill any deer, feral animal, or other wildlife, except fish and frogs or as provided by law, by means of a vehicle-mounted spotlight or other powerful light, by what is commonly referred to as “headlighting” (or “spotlighting”), or any light enhancement device used at night (night scope).

• Except for deer gun seasons, an owner or agricultural lessee or their authorized agent may use any legal means of take, day or night, to safeguard agricultural crops, animals, processed feed, seed, or other commodities utilized in the production of an agricultural commodity.

Reporting & Deer Tagging

A deer harvested in Oklahoma must have a field tag attached as soon as possible. The hunter’s name, customer ID number, date of harvest, and time must all be included on the tag. Once the deer have been tagged, they may be field dressed and relocated. Within 24 hours after capturing a deer, the hunter must register the animal via the Go Outdoors Oklahoma smartphone app, the online E-check system, or an authorized department personnel. Checking the deer results in the hunter receiving a carcass tag or an online confirmation number, both of which must stay with the deer until the corpse is processed or stored.

Chronic Wasting Disease (CWD)

Deer are among the animals most at risk for contracting Chronic Wasting Illness (CWD), a deadly wasting disease of the nervous system. Holes in the brains of infected deer have been discovered in many locations in the United States and Canada. However, in 2022, a case of CWD was discovered only 2.5 miles south of the Oklahoma-Texas line. The Oklahoma Department of Wildlife Conservation set up a Selective Surveillance area in the state’s southern region as a reaction. In this zone, only specific sections of killed deer and elk are permitted to leave the area, and the whole animals must be processed before leaving. Hunters are asked to volunteer their killed deer for testing, and the CDC advises against ingesting meat from animals that seem unwell or test positive for CWD. draft a few bullet points

Hours for Deer Hunting and Shooting.

An hour and a half before the scheduled dawn to an hour and a half after the scheduled dusk. Visit the website of the Oklahoma Department of Wildlife here.

Define antlered deer.

Any deer, male or female, with antlers that extend at least three inches above the hairline on either side.

FAQs related to Oklahoma Deer Season

Dates & Regulations Source: Wildlife Oklahoma

There’s a ton of options out there nowadays when it comes to selecting a riflescope. You have MOA, MIL, various magnifications, different objectives, tube sizes and a ton more. But one of the hardest decisions seems to be around what focal plane to select.

In the past, I’ve always used second focal plane riflescopes for hunting. They have worked great for me on my rifles and I’ve taken a ton of animals with them, but a few years ago I wanted to try something new so I switched to a first focal plane system. Mainly this switch happened because I wanted to help people out with their decisions so I could better explain what option might work best for them and my opinion on them. They both work great, but I wanted to have real-world experience behind each design.

What is a first focal plane (FFP) riflescope?

For starters, we need to define a first focal plane riflescope. This is probably the scope version that most people in hunting are a little unfamiliar with. On a first focal plane riflescope, the reticle grows as the image gets bigger when increasing magnification and it does so at the same rate. And as you decrease magnification, the reticle also shrinks as the image gets smaller. This is all because the reticle is located in front of the magnifying lens assembly in the scope.

A first focal plane riflescope also means you can always use those hash marks on the reticle for any elevation holdover or windage no matter what magnification you are on. This can be great if you don’t have time to dial in your turret in a hunting situation and you need to use the hashmarks.

As I stated earlier, the first focal plane riflescope was new to me a few years ago. And since the switch, I don’t know if I’ll ever go back.

The only downside I see is when you’re at super low magnification the reticle is almost too small to see, especially if you’re in thick timber or hunting in low light. I really notice this on my Razor HD Gen II 4.5-27×56 riflescope that is in a first focal plane setup when I go down to 4.5 power. To deal with this, if you’re hunting in a state that allows an illuminated reticle to hunt with, the illumination could allow you to make use of low power in the thick timber on a first focal plane setup. But for the most part, I don’t see this as a hindrance at all since 95% of the time I’m not hunting in thick timber at lower power. But it’s just something you should think about if you’re going to purchase a new riflescope.

Possibly one other downside is if you’re trying to shoot at a very small target in practice at a longer distance because your reticle may block the target due to it getting larger at max power. I’ve seen this happen when I’ve been practicing out in the desert while aiming at something really small and and trying to be very precise.

One of the biggest benefits of a first focal plane riflescope is if you need to quickly make a shot and need to use the elevation or windage lines in the scope, this is when a first focal plane riflescope will shine. For the most part, since I’m a hunter first and not a competition precision rifle shooter, these situations are a little rare for a hunter to need to quickly use elevation holdover marks, but it’s nice to have that feature if you’re ever in this situation on the buck of a lifetime.

Cost is another consideration. Usually, a first focal plane riflescope is a little more expensive than a second focal plane riflescope.

What is a second focal plane (SFP) riflescope?

Second focal plane riflescope is what everyone is most likely used to in hunting. The biggest thing you’ll notice on a second focal plane riflescope is the reticle stays the same size, and the target grows as you increase the magnification. This is due to the reticle being located behind the magnifying lens.

A second focal plane riflescope seems to be nicer to aim through because you have a finer aiming point due to the reticle staying small as you hit full magnification which is great when practicing long-range shots as your reticle isn’t covering up the spot you are trying to aim at.

The one main downside of a second focal plane riflescope is when dealing with adjusting the magnification to anything other than max power and using the reticle for any holdover or windage when taking a shot. If your second focal plane riflescope is set for max power, that means that the holdover lines in the reticle are only dialed in at that one magnification and will not be at the correct yardages if you drop to a lower magnification. So if you drop to a lower magnification and use the holdover lines, it won’t be to scale and you’ll miss the target. So to fix this, if you want to use any of the hashmarks, you must remember that it is only truly calibrated at max magnification.

Keep in mind… that no matter what, in a second focal plane riflescope you can always dial your turrets and use the center of the reticle no matter the magnification you are on. This change in impact discussed above is when using any of the hashmarks outside of the center of the reticle when you are on anything but max power.

This is why whenever I’m hunting, I’ll always shoot at an animal at the highest magnification. Second focal plane riflescopes have worked wonders for a ton of hunters throughout the years. Again, remember that dialing up on the turret on a second focal plane riflescope works perfectly if you just aim at the center dot of the reticle no matter what magnification you are on.

In summary, if you use a second focal plane scope and you want to use the holdover hashmarks, know it will be only valid for one magnification.

If I’m going to need to use the windage or elevation marks in my riflescope, 99.99% of the time I’m going to be at full magnification which means everything will be accurate in a second focal plane setup.

The way I’d explain my reasoning for a second focal plane scope for a lot of years is this; pretty much any shot over 300 yards I’m going to be at full magnification. So at that point, it really doesn’t matter what riflescope plane I’m using since I will be at full magnification and would be able to use the hashmarks on a second focal plane if needed, and I would also have the same benefits of a first focal.

Below is a quick series of graphics to help showcase some of the differences side by side at low magnification and high magnification.

5x magnification

25x magnification

Once again, on the first focal plane riflescope on the 25x power example, you’ll notice that the reticle grows as the image gets bigger due to adding magnification and it does so at the same rate. And on the second focal plane image, the reticle stays the same size as you increase the magnification.

In closing

One last thing I should mention, if you have a riflescope with turrets in either first or second focal plane, it does not matter what magnification you are if you aim using the center of the reticle. You will still make an impact with the correct distance dialed in the turret. You could be at low magnification on a second focal plane riflescope and dial in for a shot with the turret and make an impact. Then you could dial in for a longer shot using the turret and crank the magnification all the way up and still impact the target aiming at the center.

So what do I prefer after using both?

At this point after using both for a long time now in hunting and practice, I’m still leaning toward first focal plane riflescopes. My dad, who also is very into rifles and long range shooting for practice and hunting, doesn’t like second focal plane scopes at all anymore either. Then if you’d ask my brother who I shoot with a ton… he prefers second focal plane on his hunting setup.

So at the end of the day, both focal planes will absolutely work wonders for hunting, it just comes down to what your eyes might prefer and your use case.

If you have the ability, find a friend who has a different scope than you do and really look at a first focal plane and second focal plane side by side. This is going to be the easiest way to determine what style you prefer.

Don’t forget, if you ever have any questions about anything optics, you can reach out to our Optics Manager Cody Nelson. He is a wealth of knowledge and a person you should take advantage of when deciding what optics to purchase. Cody can be reached at [email protected] or call him at (702) 847-8747 | Ext. 2.

Check out all the riflescope options we carry here

This review started when I said mean things about Turkish shotguns online. My comments were generally targeting the gas-operated bullpup magazine-fed guns, but I have had a generally negative view of most Turkish shotguns. That opinion is based on a parade of Turk shotguns that have come through the shop where I work. As a category, they have more issues than shotguns of other origins. But they also have price points that tend to be much lower. I was soon contacted by a VP at Four Peaks Imports who threw down the gauntlet. He offered to send out a shotgun from their lineup because he thought shooting one would change my mind. I respect his approach of choosing a public hater as a potential reviewer, and letting the product speak for itself. I selected the Aksa S4, and in short order, it showed up at my FFL.

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Attack of the Clones?

The Benelli M4 is a legend. There can be no debate on that point. It has been used by militaries, police forces, competition shooters, and people who just like nice shotguns. It has graced the silver screen and been used in Triple-A video games.

Whenever a gun reaches icon status, there will be clones. Some clones are more of an homage to a design, others are quite literal “clones” of the original. The Aksa S4 is the latter. Parts are generally interchangeable, including common upgrades like magazine tubes or stocks. It is not a Benelli but is impressively similar to the original.

My negative view of Turkish shotguns generally stemmed from the obscene gas-operated bullpup magazine-fed guns that clutter the shelves of too many retailers, but the actual range of Turk scatterguns is very broad. There are pump guns with prices so low they look like misprints, and there are CZ-branded guns competing in the higher tiers. As a whole, this category of shotgun tends to cost less than comparable models made in the USA or places like Italy and Japan.

The S4 In Action

Gun reviews are intrinsically limited by (usually) having a sample size of one, and by not having unlimited time or ammunition. Multi-year, 10,000-round reviews across 20 sample guns would be an incredible source of data, but it is simply not feasible unless you are running some type of government procurement program. I was footing the bill for ammo and I most certainly do not have a Department of Defense budget. With those caveats in mind, it was time to start shooting.

I did not lubricate anything, clean the gun during the review, or put thread locker on any screws before the initial break-in. Some reviews of similar models insist that these steps are necessary before shooting a Turkinelli. Instead, I stuffed shells in the magazine tube and started shooting. Gas-operated shotguns usually need some rounds through them before they operate reliably. That was true for the Aksa S4. In the first 50 rounds or so, there were a few failures to feed and failures to extract. After the first few boxes of shells, it smoothed out and operated normally.

I wanted to put a wide range of shells through the Aksa S4 because semi-auto shotguns can be picky with ammunition. I fired 550 rounds of birdshot, primarily 1 1/8oz and 1oz Winchester and Federal as found in your local Walmart. Outside of the initial break-in and one hang-up in the burndown (discussed below), it ran this ammo 100%. Some semi-automatic scatterguns struggle with this cheap ammo, but the Aksa S4 ran it like a champ.

I also fired 110 mixed rounds of buckshot, slug, and turkey shells. The loads fired included Federal Law Enforcement buckshot and slugs, Fiocchi buckshot and slugs, cheapo no-name buckshot from a baggie in my basement, Winchester military 00 buck, and the least-expensive turkey shells from my local Sportsman’s Warehouse. Everything cycled fine, with the exception of Fiocchi low recoil buckshot. It did not like that load at all. Thankfully, that was the outlier.

The manipulations are exactly the same on the Aksa S4 and the Benelli M4. I have shot Benelli shotguns in the past and there were no differences in the manual of arms. Both the M4 and S4 benefit from larger aftermarket bolt release buttons and extended bolt handles. Extended magazine tubes can also be added, though that can trigger 922(r) compliance issues. I chose to stick with basic upgrades for this review, which would not change any functional parts of the Aksa S4. I added a piece of industrial Velcro to the left side of the receiver for use with Esstac Shotgun Cards, and a Vortex Crossfire red dot on the factory optics rail. Some reviews of similar guns reported that the optics rail came loose after firing. This gun did not have that issue.

The BurnDown

James has a history of blasting shells through shotguns as fast as he can to see what survives. Some guns handled it well, some did not. I wanted to do something similar, but with 200 rounds due to scarce ammunition and high prices. I did the burndown toward the end of the review, with about 325 rounds through the gun already. If something was going to fail, it would be more likely to fail with preexisting wear and tear before the real pain commenced.

The burndown was pretty simple. Load up 5+1, fire as fast as I could, load up 5+1 more, and do it again. There also were some top-off single loads mixed in too when I dropped a shell or missed the count on a reload. This was a truly unreasonable sustained rate of fire. The Aksa S4 got so hot that it scorched the leather glove on my lead hand through the handguards. My wife asked if I had eaten barbeque for lunch that day because the burning smell was so pronounced.

How did the Aksa S4 fare? Excellent. It has one hiccup, a failure to feed at round 178 of 200. I pressed the bolt release button and the round fired and cycled normally. Once the gun cooled off a little, I fired the remainder of the buckshot, slugs, and turkey shells. All fired normally with no drama, including some 3″ magnum Ultra Turkey 1 3/4 ounce loads that damaged me, but not the gun. I was able to land a head shot on a 2/3 IPSC steel target at about 60 yards with a 3″ Federal slug as well.

General Thoughts

A few sources had suggested that these guns were prone to parts breakage around the 500-round mark. I did not find that to be the case, but this is only one sample gun. What I can say from my totally non-scientific-definitely-not-an-engineer perspective is things look pretty good inside, and nothing looks like it is on the way to breaking.

The Aksa S4 includes 3 chokes (1 in the gun, two in a case), as well as a choke tube wrench. The wrench is pretty flimsy but it was able to remove the choke for the last few shells of the review. I did not see any marking on the chokes, so I used the age-old method of putting my finger in the front end to see how constrictive they were. I installed the most-constrictive one, and the patterns did shrink. Detailed patterning of shotguns is time intensive and beyond the scope of this review. What I can say is the chokes are there and if you feel like changing it up and looking at patterns, that option is available to you out of the box.

Conclusion

“Is it just as good?” is the wrong question. A clone that costs 70% less than the original Italian masterpiece will never be just as good. This is true with Italian guns, motorcycles, and food.

The real question should be “is it good when judged on its own merits?” and my answer is yes. It is a lot of gun for the money. Unlike many budget-oriented guns in its class, there is an aftermarket thanks to the M4 parts interchangeability. And it just might make you pick up a Benelli to round out the set some day.

Painting your goose decoys can be done with a few supplies and a little learning.

Let me make this SUPER easy for you to do by following my step-by-step directions on how to paint goose decoys.

Many people have used these instructions to make decoys that looked like they should have been thrown away to look brand new and ready to hunt over once again.

Supplies Needed

• Earth brown flat non-reflective spray paint
• Khaki flat non-reflective spray paint
• Black flat non-reflective spray paint
• Black Flat oil based paint
• White Flat oil based paint
• Small paint brush
• Painters tape/masking tape
• Box cutter/knife
• Disposable/plastic gloves (optional)

Step 1: Clean and dry the decoys.

Step 2: Apply painter’s tape/masking tape covering the white tail feather area.

Step 3-11: Instantly download/view my complete FREE step-by-step instructions by clicking the button below.

Setting Up Your Painting Area

When it comes to prepping your workstation for your decoys, you should choose a space in the home that is free of traffic. Paint fumes can also be hazardous, so ensure the room or area has enough ventilation.

This will ensure that you are not disturbed throughout the process. You can set up your station on a big enough table and place some newspaper or material down so that you don’t stain your table.

Ensure that the tape is big enough to place your decoys, paint cans, brushes, and any other tools you are using for painting and that you have all of your tools on hand before beginning the process.

Also, ensure that the area is free of any dust and debris that could be get stuck to the paint and affect the finish on the painted decoys.

Using Masking Tape To Protect Areas

Masking tape is going to come in extremely handy in this process. The masking tape will be used to cover the right side feather area, the whitetail feather area as well as the white ring around the decoy neck.

Start by applying a 1/4 inch masking tape covering these three areas after you have cleaned and dried the decoys, but before you begin painting.

What Type Of Colors Should You Pick?

When it comes to painting a goose decoy, you should note that a goose can be any color from completely gray to completely white.

Male geese are also born with bright orange beaks, and the females have a brown beaks. As both of the sexes mature, the males will grow white feathers and keep the orange beak, and the females will grow gray feathers, and the beak will also change to orange.

So when it comes to choosing the colors for your decoys, bear this information in mind.

What Type Of Pattern Should You Go For?

When it comes to painting your goose decoys, you want them to look as realistic as possible. So this is the time that you need to make reference to the photo that you are referencing to paint decoys.

You want to add details to make them look realistic as well, and if the chest feathers are a different color than the body, then you need to use that specific color of paint across the chest at this time.

Ultimately, try to stick to the details of real geese and ensure that they look natural and realistic as much as you can. Although you may want to add some of your own creativity, if it means taking away from the realism of your decoy, then don’t do it.

Is There A Color Difference In Geese Based On Gender?

In most breeds, both the male and female geese look alike. So it’s quite difficult to tell them apart. In most cases, though, the goose is darker than the gander.

This is even evident when they are still quite small, and as they grow, most geese will resemble the Toulouse color while the gander will resemble the Emden.

How To Apply The Paint

When it comes down to deciding whether to spray paint your decoy or paint it with a brush, it all boils down to personal preference.

While some people may find it easier to spray-paint their decoys, others believe that they get more accuracy out of a paintbrush.

The good news is that there is no rule that says that you need to use either one or the other, and you can choose to use both.

When it comes to coloring larger areas of the goose, a spray can do the trick. However, when it comes to adding detail and painting areas such as the tail, feathers, or beak, using a specific-size paintbrush will give you more detail and accuracy.

Spray

Spray cans can be used for larger areas.

Brush

A paintbrush will help you achieve more detail.

How Long Should The Paint Dry?

If you are applying a primer, you should allow it to dry for approximately 20 minutes before adding paint. When painting, allow the paint 10 to 20 minutes of drying time is required before you apply another coat.

If you are using spray paint, then it’s going to dry quicker, and you’ll need approximately 10 minutes in order for it to dry completely.

When it comes to painting the beak, it is recommended that you use acrylic paint and allow it to dry for 10 minutes before applying any additional coats.

How Long Before You Can Deploy The Decoy To The Field?

Depending on whether you are using spray paint or paintbrushes to finish off your decoys, it can take anywhere between 1 to 3 hours before you use it.

So once you’ve completed painting the decoy, set it on a flat surface so it can dry consistently.

You should check on it 2 to 3 hours later, and if the paint is completely dry, then you are ready to set your decoy out in the woods and use it as you please.

Will Geese Be Able To Tell The Difference Based On Smell?

When it comes to painting your goose decoys, you should do it well in advance. This will give the paint enough time to dry thoroughly and also get the smell of paint fumes off the decoys.

However, as long as the decoys look realistic, that is no reason why geese will not commit.

Should You Apply Coatings To Make Your Paint Last Longer?

Yes, there is no rule that says that you cannot use extra coats of paint on your decoys to ensure that the paint lasts longer. However, it is recommended that you only purchase a satin finish, latex paint.

This is because satin-finish does not contain any type of gloss and is the right sheen for painting decoys.

Ultimately, if you invest in any type of paint or say a high gloss paint, it’s going to make your decoys look shiny, and unless you’ve seen a shiny goose, this is sure to make other geese flare instead of committing.

So if you want to avoid this from happening, ensure that the paint you use on your decoys looks as natural to the real thing as possible.

You Might Also Read: Duck Hunting Decoy Tips

Walleye is the state fish of Minnesota. It is arguably the most sought-after species during the summer and winter months. Walleye offer excellent table fare, an exciting fight, and they are one of the few game fish that remain active throughout the cold winter months. Because of the popularity of the walleye and the challenge they provide for anglers, many methods have been developed for catching them. At Tuned Up Custom Rods, we have designed a whole arsenal of rods to be used for every known walleye technique. In this blog, we will break down which rods are best for each technique to help you make the best choice in your rod purchase.

All the different lures and presentations can be broken down into two main ways to fish for walleye: Jigging and Dead Sticking. Jigging means you are actively moving your bait and lure with your hand by lifting the rod tip up and down. This lets your lure imitate the movement of live bait. Dead Sticking means you have your rod stationary and you are using live bait (usually minnows). The bait itself makes the action underwater and you wait for a fish to bite.

Let’s look at jigging first. Jigging is active. You are constantly involved in the process and you often are trying to tempt fish with your offering. Sometimes, fish will respond best to large, aggressively jigged lures. Other times, the fish will prefer moderated jigging of a spoon. Still other times, the fish will want you to barely move a small spoon or jig. Having multiple presentations rigged up and ready to go, will allow you to home in on the fish’s mood quickly and effectively.

Different lures have different weights. At Tuned Up Custom Rods, our rods are built to be matched to specific weight ranges of lures. If you fish too heavy of a rod on a light lure, you will not feel or see the bite as well. If you fish too heavy of a lure on too light of rod, you will not have the control of the bait when jigging. It comes down to balance.

We offer three main walleye rods for most lure weights. These rods will be effective for most walleye presentations. The rods are the Precision, the Power Precision, and the Commander.

The Precision is a Light to Medium Light power, fast actions jigging rod. It is designed to handle lures from 1/10 ounce to 1/4 ounce. This is the range most walleye spoons fall into. The Precision is our most versatile walleye rod and will handle most walleye situations. The Precision works great with popular walleye spoons like the VMC Tingler Spoon, Lindy Rattln’ Flyer, and Swedish Pimple. It can also be used for small minnow profile baits like the Rapala Ultra-Light Rippn Rap 04.

The Power Precision is a Medium Power, fast action jigging rod. This rod is heavier than the Precision and can support baits from 1/8 ounce to 3/8 ounce. The Power Precision really shines with minnow profile baits like the Rapala Rippin Raps and Lindy Darters. It also works well for heavier spoons.

The Commander is a Medium to Medium-Heavy power, fast action jigging rod. This rod is our premiere walleye rod. It is very versatile, being able to handle medium spoons up to the largest minnow profile baits and swimbaits. It handles lures in the ranges of 1/8 ounce to 5/16 ounce. The Commander is excellent for targeting the largest walleye and pike in a lake. It has a remarkably sensitive tip and a backbone that can comfortably fight nearly all trophy fish.

29″ Walleye Caught on Commander

If you are looking for a rod that can be used for walleye and for smaller species, such as perch and crappie, we offer two, very different rods for you; the Fusion and the QuickTip. Both rods are intended to be jigging rods and accommodate the smaller end of the baits people use for walleye, including the smallest Rippn Rap 03 and the smallest spoons.

The Fusion is a Light Power, Moderate-Fast action rod. Its slower action allows the rod to load up more during the hookset. The Fusion is a great blend between panfish and walleye, especially if you are targeting eater sized walleye.

The QuickTip is a Light Power, Extra-Fast action rod. The tip transitions lightning quick to the backbone. This allows you to set the hook as soon as you feel a bite. Because the tip is so quick, the QuickTip is somewhat limited in the size of lures it fishes well. You will want to stay at or under the 1/8 ounce size. It is also very important to keep the QuickTip parallel to the ice when you set the hook and fight the fish. High sticking might lead to a broken tip.

Finally, if you are looking for a dead stick rod to place in a rod holder with a slip bobber or a bait feeder reel, the Tuned Up Custom Rods DeadStick is your perfect choice. This is a Medium Power, Slow Action rod. The slow action and the light fiberglass tip allow you to visually watch when a fish begins biting your minnow. You can see the bite happen before the fish knows that they are attached to the rod. This technique is expertly demonstrated in the attached video from In-Depth Outdoors. The DeadStick also works very well in an iFishPro tip-up system.

If you made it all the way to the end, you know now just how much thought and care went into the designing of the Tuned Up Custom Rods Walleye line-up. Which rod is right for you depends on how you like to fish. For many people, the Precision is the perfect starting point. But many people prefer to have multiple rods, to cover all their walleye bases.