Home Blog

Frogs — The Bait Bass Can’t Ignore

0

Frogs - The Bait Bass Can't Ignore

Among bass anglers, there’s a major misconception about fishing frog patterns. Many anglers believe that there must be frogs living in the reservoir, natural lake or pond for a frog-style bait to be effective. Others think you need to have mats, weeds or moss to fish a frog.

None of those are true.

“When you put a frog on the mat, bass don’t know if it’s a mouse, a baitfish flipping around or a black bird. A lot of times, the frog imitates a number of things, not just a frog,” says professional bass angler Gary Dobyns, the all-time leading money winner in the West. “I’ve seen water snakes eaten when they are on top of a mat. Bass are ferocious predators. They just eat whatever moves on top of that mat and figure out what it is later. Half the time they don’t know what it is. Twice, I’ve seen bass try to eat full-grown coots. They didn’t get them, but they sure tried.”

Depending on weather and water temperature, frogs can be effective all year. May, however, is the traditional start of the frog season. Frogs can be effective from May through the fall in most waters in the western United States. Regardless of the water’s structure, most lakes, reservoirs, ponds, sloughs, backwaters, natural lakes and rivers in the West harbor a place for frog fishing. In fact, there isn’t a place in the West where a properly fished frog bait won’t catch bass.

“You can throw frogs on any lake, period, and they’ll catch fish,” says Dobyns. “I’ve caught my frog fish in Lake Mead, Lake Powell, Lake Oroville and in the Columbia River – places where you don’t have grass. You can catch frog fish anywhere.”

POLLEN LINESEvery serious bass angler knows that frogs can be effective anywhere grass is found. But Dobyns’ biggest secret is fishing frogs in areas devoid of greenery. For example, while few anglers fish pollen slicks with frogs, Dobyns wins tournaments by targeting them.

Floating pollen is common in most Western waters. Dobyns looks for areas where a breeze pushes pollen into a pocket or along the shoreline.

“Fishing frogs on a pollen line is my best-kept secret,” he said, fully knowing his words would soon be printed. “If you fish a frog on top of the pollen scum line, you can catch a boatload of bass. The bass hardly ever see frogs, so they are easy to fool. They’re sitting right underneath the scum line of pollen. It’s like a mat. They get right underneath it. There’s shade and no light penetration, so you always have bass there.”

And because no one else knows those fish are there, Dobyns is busy catching fish other anglers simply overlook. “It’s a secret. No one does it.”

Many bass pros seek out specific water to throw frogs, but Dobyns is a little more flexible. He commonly casts frogs into open water where most folks wouldn’t think of fishing them. “You can throw a frog in some places that you can’t throw anything else. A frog won’t snag, so you can throw it anywhere,” says Dobyns, who tosses frogs on 65-pound Power Pro. “Braided line is very important. You don’t want any stretch. With braid, you get good, solid hookups. You want to be able to power the fish out of the mat.”

GRASSLESS FISHING

Mats aren’t the only place where frogs are effective. Anglers can find success pitching frogs into debris pockets of wood, grass, pollen slicks, tules and any heavy-matted vegetation. On the contrary, many pros have made a living pitching frogs in open water.

“I like throwing them to the bank,” says Art Berry, former Bassmaster champion. “You need to be able to cast the frog to where the water meets the bank. The key is getting the frog as shallow as possible. Everybody knows that frogs live close to the shore. The bass pin them against the bank. You want to throw to the bank, whether there are trees, grass, moss or overhanging branches on the bank.”

The point is that you don’t have to find grass to enjoy success.

“Most of the frog-fish I catch are not caught underneath the mat. They’re caught around brush, trees and in open water around grass,” Berry said. “They’ll probably eat the frog in the spot where you didn’t think you would ever get bit.”

On the other hand, time of day can affect results. Weather can also be a determining factor in frog-fishing success. Many anglers see catch rates increase toward midday and late afternoon. This is because typically, the water is warmer during this time and bass are in covered areas. Dobyns finds the best action with frogs occurs on hot, clear, calm days.

“I think the hot is a given. It makes the fish get in the shade, which most of the time is going to be underneath the mats. Clear is because it will put them in specific spots. If it’s an overcast day they don’t need the cover, but if it’s bright and sunny they need to hunt any cover they can over the top of their heads,” added Dobyns. “Calm – well, I’ve always believed that topwater baits drive fish crazy in calm water. I like fishing frogs in calm water. I’ll throw them in wind, but ask what my perfect situation is, and it’s flat.”

HOW TO FISH A FROG

Knowing how to fish a frog is a science, not something that comes overnight. As with all techniques, the more you employ it, the more confidence you’ll have when fishing it.

“People wonder why a bass short-strikes a frog. It’s because often the angler isn’t fishing it right or the frog isn’t swimming right,” Berry added. “You need to get the frog to be able to walk. Most guys don’t know how to walk a frog and they don’t have the right gear when they fish them.”

By “gear,” Berry means line, rod and reel.

“You don’t want to go have an out-of-the-package frog tied on mono line,” he said.

However, you do want to learn how to train a frog to glide flawlessly through the water. Simply skirting a frog along the surface will generate strikes, but if you make sure the frog swims to its potential, you’ll increase strikes. Berry points his rod tip down, rather than up, and employs short strokes, perhaps four to five inches.

“I just imagine that there’s a needle on the end of my rod and there’s a balloon. I don’t want to pop the balloon. When I move the tip of the rod, I do so just enough to touch the balloon, but not pop it. It’s just like if you were working a Zara Spook,” he explained. “You don’t want to pull and pull the frog through the water because it won’t

swim right. You want the frog to stay in one spot as long as you can. You have to make the frog walk on slack line.”

Easier said than done! But with practice, the technique can be perfected. By not pulling the frog, you’re allowing it to remain in the strike zone for longer periods of time, thus giving bass more time to grab it.

BIG BASS, LITTLE BASS

Many anglers perceive frogs as big-fish baits. However, they’re often surprised when barely legal bass grab half-ounce frogs, proving that bass of all ages and sizes are keen on eating frogs.

“I’ve caught non-keepers that eat frogs, but usually you catch at least keepers,” Dobyns said, pointing out that Kent Brown once caught a five-fish limit of 5-pound bass on frogs while fishing the Sacramento/San Joaquin Delta.

On the contrary, a frog can be one of the most effective big-fish baits. “I think a frog is by far the best big-fish bait that’s ever been made, other than fishing a swimbait,” Dobyns said. “You’ll catch way more fish on frogs than swimbaits. I’ve won more money on a frog than any other bait.”

Choosing a frog can be a chore. Aisles at sporting good stores and tackle shops offer dozens of brands of frogs. Nevertheless, many that appeal to the eye aren’t effective in the water. Some anglers say that it’s a personal preference as to which frog they fish with. Others pay attention to the chemistry and construction of the frog.

SELECTING FROG BAITS

“It boils down to your personal favorite with some frogs. The thing that I want a frog to do is, I want a frog to be able to walk,” Dobyns said. “I want to be able to work my rod tip and get the frog to walk side to side, like you would a Zara Spook. I want to be able to work it across the mat, and when I hit open water, I want to be able to walk it to another mat. Many times I fish frogs in open water. I think I probably catch 75 percent of my frog-fish in open water.”

Nearly every major bass tackle manufacturer designs frogs. Some are more effective than others, however.

“What do I think the best frog on the market is? I think the best is Dean Rojas’ Spro frog. What makes this frog the best is, it’s very easy to walk. And the hook position on the bait enables you to catch almost 100 percent of the fish that strike,” says Dobyns, who casts frogs with a Powell 735C Frog Rod and a Daiwa TDA high-speed reel. “With some of the frogs out there, you may only catch 20 percent of the fish that bite because the hook is too far down on the body. This is because they just have a poor design. But with the Spro frog, the hook is in the perfect position and it’s 100 percent weedless.”

Having the frog glide fluently in the water is vital, but there are other factors to consider, too. Frogs come in several sizes, ranging from a quarter-ounce to nearly an ounce.

“I throw one size and that’s it,” says Dobyns, who throws only half-ounce frogs. “I think it’s a perfect size. It’s not too big to catch smaller fish, but big enough to catch big fish.”

SPLITTING HAIRS

Berry takes frog fishing to another level, though, and goes so far as to actually count the strands of rubber used to create each leg. He believes that there are very few quality frogs on the market. “The biggest thing for someone new to frog fishing is that they need to know that most frogs you buy at the store aren’t worth a damn,” Berry said. “There are no good out-of-the-package frogs, no frog that you can buy that will work great out of the package.”

Berry says frogs come standard with 20 strands of rubber in each leg. But for an imitation frog to swim properly, he says it can only have 10 to 12 strands of rubber on each side. “What I do is cut the strands off the frog so there are only 10 to 12. You want to cut the legs up near the base. You want to leave just a hair, maybe a quarter-inch before they go to the base of the frog,” he says.

ADD SOME COLOR

Berry isn’t done yet. Next, he takes a hand file and files the round weight in the rear of the frog, saying it’s imperative to file it completely flat.

“You can’t use a power tool to file it down because the lead gets too hot and you melt the plastic on the frog, which can cause the weight to fall out. You want to make sure the weight is flat so it’s paper-thin,” he added.

Berry then moves to step three, which consists of taking two Sharpie pens and drawing roughly 20 to 25 small dots on the bellies and the sides of the frog. Berry recommends laying it down on cardboard and putting its legs together. Then he adds a varied pattern of colored dots every quarter-inch, using combinations of white, black, green and yellow.

“When you use a Sharpie pen on the frog, the frog will look really pretty right off the bat. But the ink bleeds into the rubber after a couple of days, and the tiny dots become bigger and bigger,” Berry said. “That’s OK, this is what you want it to do. The key is coloring the rubber itself. Any frogs you see in water will have lots of dots on their bellies.”

LET’S GET REAL

Berry also colors the weight black and the eyelid (where your line ties to) black as well.

“It can only be black. You want your line to be black because black doesn’t show up as good in the water and it doesn’t come off your line. If you use a frog that has a shiny eyelid and a fish sees that, they aren’t going to eat it. Come on! They know that’s not a real frog,” added Berry.

“There are key things that a lot of people miss out on. Most of the frogs that are on the shelves don’t look real and by doing these little things, you can make your frog look real and ensure that it’ll swim like a frog.”

Berry credits Andre Moore, owner of Reaction Innovations, for most of his frog-fishing secrets.

“I feel like my frog will out-fish any frog on the market because of these adjustments,” Berry said. “A lot of people get mad at me because I give all my secrets away, but this is something that anyone can do. I’m into promoting the sport of bass fishing, and if people follow these simple things we’ve discussed, they’ll catch more fish. It’s taken my whole life to learn this. An average guy can go into the tackle store and do this. You can make the frog look real.”

What seems odd though, is that if this method works so well, why hasn’t a company made a frog that has all these qualities? “Because I haven’t told anybody yet,” Berry said. “There are a few people that do this already, but most guys don’t know about this.”

They do now!

Dobyns and Berry use Power Pro braided line religiously. They both go as far as saying that if you aren’t using 65-pound braided line, you shouldn’t fish frog baits at all. Neither uses monofilament line when fishing frogs. “There’s no stretch and the abrasion resistance is incredible. The key thing is the distance you can cast with a frog on braid. You can catch it a country mile,” Berry sai

d.

Leupold VX Freedom Review: Is It a Good Budget Scope?

0

It is undeniable that most scopes are costly. However, you don’t need thousands of dollars for a high-quality hunting scope.

Let me introduce you to the Leupold VX Freedom series.

The VX Freedom line delivers the same top-notch quality of high-end scopes for a fairer price.

In this article, I’ll break down the VX Freedom 3-9x40mm riflescope and give an overall review of the VX Freedom line.

Overview of the Leupold VX Freedom 3-9x40mm Rifle Scope

Leupold VX Freedom 3-9x40mm Rifle Scope

BUYING OPTIONS: » Best Price on OpticsPlanet « » Check Price on Cabelas « » Check Price on Brownells « » Check Price on Amazon «

Specifications

  • Magnification Power: 3-9x
  • Objective Diameter Lens: 40 millimeters
  • Scope Tube Diameter: 1 inch
  • Windage and Elevation: 1/4 MOA per click
  • Eye Relief: 4.17″/3.66″
  • Suggested Retail Price: $390

The Leupold VX Freedom 3-9×40 is a LIGHTWEIGHT scope designed for shooting in clear or rainy weather.

This scope is made from 6061-T6 aircraft-quality aluminum, giving it lasting durability.

Like the other VX freedom scopes, it is 100% waterproof, shockproof, and fog-proof.

It can take a beating, as I’ve learned through my testing procedure.

Along with this, the Leupold VX Freedom 3-9x40mm scope lenses incorporate scratch-resistant technology. This scope does not need a lens protector.

Another great thing about the VX Freedom scopes is that you can choose between a variety of reticles:

  • Duplex Reticle CDS (174182)
  • Hunt-Plex (181307)
  • Tri-MOA CDS (180603)

What makes this hunting scope unique from other scopes?

The Leupold VX Freedom 3-9x40mm scope features a 3:1 zoom erector system that makes reticle adjustments smooth and repeatable in any shooting condition.

In addition to this, its duplex reticle can be easily made clearer through a textured lock ring.

What I Liked About It

The Leupold VX Freedom 3-9x40mm scope offers excellent eye relief, making it a great entry-level scope for beginners.

I’ve been shooting for quite a while, and I still find its variable magnification useful!

It rocks a standard duplex reticle that incorporates what Leupold calls the twilight light management system.

This system aims to maximize low-light imaging for varmint and deer hunting.

Compared to some rifle scopes, you can adjust the turrets by hand.

It offers state-of-the-art technology at an affordable price.

Leupold also provides an excellent warranty with a full lifetime guarantee whether or not you are the original owner.

No need for a warranty card!

What I Didn’t Like About It

The main concern with the Leupold VX Freedom 3-9x40mm scope is that mounting it on certain rifles could be difficult.

I’ve found it to be far too long for shotguns and even some ARs.

Hitting long-range shots could also be a problem for this scope due to its unchangeable parallax.

Lastly, many users have pointed out that the quality of the adjustment turrets is underwhelming.

What’s in the Packaging?

The packaging of the Leupold VX Freedom 3-9x40mm is quite simple.

When you unbox it, the things you’ll see are the optic and the operation manual only.

It’s so straight to the point that there aren’t even lens covers.

I could’ve used a bit more accessories, like what other brands do, but I guess receiving just the optic and manual is fine.

Things to Consider When Buying a Rifle Scope

Rifle mounted on stand

I want to ensure you get the BEST SHOOTING EXPERIENCE, so here are some things you should note when purchasing a rifle scope.

#1 Reticles

Hunters need to know where their bullet is going.

With this in mind, the reticle of a great scope should be designed to give you the true point of aim.

Line height should also be a factor when choosing reticles because you need to gauge for bullet drop.

Different reticles offer different functions, but if you want something simple and easy to use, I recommend a Duplex reticle.

#2 Lenses

Both the ocular and objective lenses need to have lens coatings that help with the light-gathering aspect of these scopes.

Regarding the ocular lens, providing a CLEAR sight picture is a MUST.

On the other hand, the objective lens should deliver a bright image of your target.

REMEMBER: The LARGER the objective lens diameter, the more light is gathered and the BRIGHTER the image.

#3 Magnification Power

Zooming in and out is a perk that hunters obtain when purchasing a variable power scope.

However, getting a powerful scope wouldn’t make sense if you own a short-range hunting rifle.

In that case, I recommend sticking to single-magnification scopes if you are a beginner.

Start off with short distances that require smaller magnifications before moving on to farther distances where higher magnification is better to use.

#4 Windage and Elevation Adjustments

The quality of both the windage and elevation adjustment turrets is another important thing to check.

Making smooth adjustments to where you want the bullet to impact makes a big difference when shooting.

You should be able to slide it smoothly while feeling reassuring clicks.

About Leupold

Leupold logo

Leupold is a family business founded in 1907. Around the 1940s, the story goes that Marcus Leupold was out hunting and missed a buck because the scope fogged up.

He decided to take the matter into his own hands. Thus, came the birth of fog-proof Leupold scopes.

Fast forward to the present day, Leupold is known as one of the best manufacturers of optics in the industry.

Their biggest selling point is that their lenses have various lens coatings guaranteeing pristine image quality.

Many hunters stick with the Leupold brand because their scopes offer them great value and quality that lasts a lifetime.

I’ve found them to be reliable even in the worst conditions.

I have another Leupold Scope Review on the VX-R Series if you’re interested!

Where Are Leupold VX Scopes Made?

Leupold VX Freedom scopes are designed, assembled, and manufactured in Beaverton, Oregon.

Their facility in Oregon is the ONLY place where Leupold riflescopes are made.

Furthermore, the serial numbers found on the scope body prove their authenticity.

Beware of Leupold counterfeits that are shipped and made elsewhere.

Are Any Leupold Scopes Made in China?

NONE of Leupold’s scopes are made in China. However, some counterfeits are being shipped from there.

I certainly WOULD NOT recommend it, as replicas are almost always unreliable.

What Is the Leupold Warranty?

As mentioned earlier, the warranty for any Leupold scope has no time limit.

Beyond this, Leupold guarantees LIFETIME quality optics that will get the job done!

Their optics are impact verified, waterproof, fog-proof, and still functional after extreme climate exposure.

Leupold VX Freedom Review

The VX Freedom is Leupold’s successful attempt to bring hunters all the benefits of an expensive scope at a cheaper price point.

Let’s break down the reasons why:

VX Freedom Line Overview

These scopes have 1-inch scope tubes that apply a Second Focal Plane reticle.

There is even a model that offers a Custom Dial system with custom dials for your ballistic specifications.

The lens coatings that set this line apart from the others are unique to the VX Freedom series.

Twilight Light Management System

The purpose of the Twilight Light Management System is to help hunters see more in less light.

This system provides an extra 15-30 minutes of shooting time when the sun rises or sets.

I’ve found this extra stretch of time invaluable during an intense hunt!

Leupold has made sure that the color and contrast of their lenses are unparalleled, giving you bright, clean, and clear images when looking through their optics.

Can You Use Leupold VX Freedom With Air Rifles?

The fine duplex reticle makes the Leupold VX Freedom compatible with air guns.

Another thing is the recoil-tested guarantee that delivers LESS shock.

While I wouldn’t recommend using regular scopes on air rifles, the Freedom will do just fine!

Here are some of the best VX Freedom scopes for air rifles:

  • Leupold VX Freedom 3-9x40mm
  • Leupold VX Freedom 450 Bushmaster 3-9x40mm
  • Leupold VX Freedom 1.5-4x20mm

User Reviews

The Leupold VX Freedom line received high praise from the hunting community.

Many users have said that the performance of these optics has made their shooting more accurate.

However, not all users are satisfied with their VX Freedom scope.

Positive Testimonials

One Amazon user stated that the Leupold VX Freedom 3-9x40mm scope worked great for their hunting.

“One of the lightest and clearest scopes I’ve handled. It works great for my featherweight bolt action. Leupold knows what they’re doing and they’re selling it for a great deal.” – Anonymous

Another user praised the performance of the Leupold VX Freedom 3-9x40mm.

“On range day, my oldest daughter was on the trigger. Eye relief is 3.7-4.2 in with a generous eyebox. This scope will not intimidate novice shooters. Sighting in was quick and easy. We sighted in the bore-sighted scope at 100 yards in three shots. The ¼ MOA turrets produced the expected shift in POI.” – Anonymous

One user commented that the VX Freedom line offers excellent features for a reasonable price.

“Leupold makes the very best scopes for the money. Rugged and reliable. And Leupold stands behind their products. I mounted this Leupold VX-Freedom 3-9×40 1 inch Riflescope to my Tikka T3X Superlite .308 and I get 1/2″ groups at 100 yards. Very pleased.” – Anonymous

Negative Testimonials

An Amazon user was not satisfied with the turret quality and the predetermined parallax.

“The fixed parallax prevents optimal focusing on objects under about 30 yards… The turret adjustments are very mushy and don’t have a feeling of quality.” – Anonymous

Another user commented that the only thing unsatisfactory with the Leupold VX Freedom is the quality of the dials.

“The turret caps felt cheap and I imagine they could be easily cross threaded if you weren’t mindful… The magnification adjustment ring did not have the same quality feel that I’ve come to expect from Leupold.” – Anonymous

Overall Rating: 4.6 out of 5 Stars

Leupold VX Freedom Alternatives

A riflescope review wouldn’t be complete without other options. Here are 3 of the best alternatives I’ve found if you don’t fancy the VX Freedom 3-9×40.

Don’t worry; these alternatives are all budget-friendly!

1. Vortex Optics Crossfire II 3-9x40mm

Vortex Optics Crossfire II 3-9x40mm

BUYING OPTIONS: » Best Price on OpticsPlanet « » Check Price on Cabelas « » Check Price on Brownells « » Check Price on Amazon «

The Vortex Optics Crossfire II 3-9x40mm is a fast-focusing eyepiece that allows you to point and shoot.

The fully multi-coated lenses on this scope increase light transmission and decrease reflection.

In addition to this, like its Leupold VX Freedom counterpart, it applies the Second Focal Plane reticle assembly, making it perfect for a bright image shooting experience.

The Vortex Optics Crossfire II series is known for its capped and resettable MOA turrets that provide more durability and convenient adjustments.

I compared more Leupold and Vortex scopes if you want to know more.

2. Nikon Buckmaster II 3-9x40mm

Nikon Buckmaster II 3-9x40mm

BUYING OPTIONS: » DISCONTINUED BY MANUFACTURER «

The Nikon Buckmaster II 3-9x40mm is one of the MOST AFFORDABLE hunting scopes on the market.

This highly accurate scope is fully weather-proof with great multi-coated lenses.

A great thing about this scope is the BDC reticle with see-through ballistic holes that aid the accuracy of long-range hunters.

However, the only downside of this great scope is the poor image quality.

Unfortunately, it’s also been discontinued by Nikon, so I suggest buying it through a third-party reseller.

3. Sig Sauer Whiskey 3 3-9x50mm

Sig Sauer Whiskey 3 3-9x50mm

BUYING OPTIONS: » Best Price on OpticsPlanet « » Check Price on Amazon «

The Sig Sauer Whiskey 3 3-9x50mm is an ALL-PURPOSE hunting scope that offers flexibility like no other.

This scope is great for varmint hunting, big-game hunting, target shooting; you name it.

For a budget scope, the fully-coated lenses go hand in hand with low-light environments.

It rocks a Quadplex reticle that enhances your shot in close to mid-range distances.

Frequently Asked Questions

1_Frequently Asked Questions-

Where Can I Buy the Leupold VX Freedom?

You can buy the Leupold VX Freedom from several retail stores or online stores, including Amazon and OpticsPlanet.

If you want to save money, you can try looking at secondhand sellers, but chances are it is lower quality after use.

It is always better to buy a new one straight from legitimate sellers.

Does the Military Use Leupold?

Yes!

Leupold Optics is one of the many brands that is commonly used in military and law enforcement.

Their scopes’ durability and high-quality performance (specifically the Mark 5HD)

Which is Better, Vortex or Leupold?

In my opinion, Leupold is better in terms of features and experience, while Vortex is a go-to for affordable products.

Both brands offer excellent performance, so you really can’t go wrong with either one.

However, I can both brands for beginners who don’t want to spend too much right off the bat.

Final Verdict: Is the Leupold VX Freedom 3-9×40 Any Good?

For a budget scope series, the Leupold VX Freedom scopes deliver GREAT VALUE to beginners and pros alike.

I recommend getting a scope from the Freedom line to hunters that want impeccable internal scope technology at an affordable price.

Consider getting a Leupold VX Freedom 3-9×40 scope if you want:

  • A simple reticle that will increase your accuracy
  • Coated lenses that maximize resolution
  • Generous eye relief
  • Lifetime guarantee and warranty

However, the quality of the adjustment turrets isn’t anything special.

I hope you enjoyed this VX Freedom review, and I wish you enjoyable hunting experiences.

FINAL TIP: If you want to look for other alternatives, you can also check out my $500 Riflescope Buying Guide for more options!

Rifle Calibers for Hog Hunting: Here Are 3 Top Choices

0

Limiting the best rifle calibers to only three options can be a daunting task when considering most big-game animals, and this can be especially true when referring to wild hogs. Any avid hunter knows that these pigs can come in many different shapes and sizes, making it a challenge to select that caliber of choice in order to bring home the bacon. For some, it’s all about that massive, trophy hog, commonly referred to within the hunting community as “Hogzilla.” However, some hunters might just want to take what they can get considering the destruction these razorbacks cause to farmers. Plus, the smaller ones make great table fare as well.

Regardless of what category you fall into, these three caliber options, proven by the evidence in each entry’s video, will pack the punch you need to bring some boars down and put some bacon on the grill.

1. .308 Winchester

It seems firearms chambered in .308 Win. get the job done the best. Some great firearm choices for hog hunting, when chambered in .308, are the Smith and Wesson M&P 10 and the Browning BAR ShorTrac Hog Stalker.

If for some reason you have doubts about shooting this ammo at a wild boar, or anything while big game hunting, just take a look at what happens at the 3:25 mark in the video!

2. .30-06 Springfield

Very similar to the .308, the .30-06 has been one of the most widely used whitetail deer hunting rifles a long, long time. Well, guess what? It works great for shooting hogs, too. This caliber is accurate, powerful and deadly, even in the hands of novice hunters.

To check out a great summation of the differences between the way each performs in the field, listen to this guy break down the nitty gritty.

3. .270 Winchester

Also known as a deer rifle, the .270 is just simple and effective. With the right shot placement on a broadside pig, a bolt-action .270 packs enough punch and penetration to get the job done on the little piglets, as well as the full-grown feral hogs!

Be sure to jump to the 4:55 mark in the video to see the way a .270 can make a Texas hog drop right in its tracks from long range!

If you’ve spent any time chasing these razorbacks through the southern terrain, you know just how tough these animals are, and how much damage they can take and still continue to keep running. Using a rifle caliber that is proven to be deadly is always a plus, but nothing replaces steady aim and ethical shot placements, regardless of what gun you are using.

Some people might be surprised that the Remington .223 didn’t make the list, but honestly, these calibers listed speak for themselves in regards to their lethality on feral hogs. Having said that, deciding which caliber to use really depends on your experience and comfortability with certain rifles, and this should just serve as a great baseline and information resource. The important part is that you get out there, enjoy the great outdoors, help battle this country’s ruthless hog problem, and bring home some of the best wild game nature has to offer.

READ MORE: HERE ARE THE GUNS THAT DONALD TRUMP CARRIES EVERYDAY

How To Rechamber A Rifle For The New 7mm PRC

0
How To Rechamber A Rifle For The New 7mm PRC

How To Rechamber A Rifle For The New 7mm PRC (Photo by Joseph von Benedikt)

If you don’t have your head buried in the sand, you understand why the new Hornady 7mm PRC cartridge has created such a stir. You also understand that it could be months before rifles chambered in 7mm PRC are readily available on dealer’s shelves.

It’s debatable whether a new cartridge has ever before driven as much internet buzz as the 7mm PRC. That’s in large part due to the inherent coolness of the cartridge, but it is also thanks to the fact that few shooters want to wait to own one. “How to build a 7mm PRC” is a popular search. The easiest and most practical way, of course, is to convert a rifle already in your gun safe. Thankfully, the process isn’t particularly hard.

Step 1: Find An Appropriate Bolt-Action

Hornady
The new 7mm PRC from Hornady is the trendiest cartridge on the scene. It requires a magnum bolt face, but it fits comfortably into a .30-06-length action, making it eminently suitable for most of the standard-length magnum actions already on the market. (Photo by Joseph von Benedikt)

First, your action must be compatible with the 7mm PRC. That means your donor rifle must have a magnum-diameter bolt face compatible with the cartridge’s 0.532-inch case head. It also must have feed rails and a magazine box compatible with the PRC cartridge.

Thankfully, just about every magnum action for popular rounds such as the 7mm Rem Mag and .300 Win. Mag. are ideal. Unlike the longer .300 PRC, which demands a true long magnum action that will house 3.700-inch-long cartridges, the 7mm version fits in standard-length actions that house 3.400-inch cartridges. This opens a plethora of great options for conversion.

How to Rebarrel a Rifle for 7mm PRC
7mm PRC cartridges use a magnum bolt face, so choose accordingly when picking a donor action for a build project. (Photo by Joseph von Benedikt)

Without debate, the most sensible action for conversion to 7mm PRC is a Remington 700 or 700 clone. This isn’t because of inherent superiority; it’s simply because there are more aftermarket parts for the 700 than for any other. This includes stocks, triggers, magazines, bottom metal and so forth. Plus, the M700 is naturally easy to make accurate, which makes it and the 7mm PRC a match made in heaven. However, any good magnum action will do just fine. As you’ll see, I didn’t use an M700 action, for reasons I’ll discuss later.

Step 2: Get A Premium Barrel

How to Rebarrel a Rifle for 7mm PRC
Whether you choose a composite stock or a wood stock, be sure the forend channel is wide enough to accept the barrel you choose. That’s easy if you pick a traditional all-steel, hunting-weight barrel. If you pick a carbon-fiber-wrapped barrel like this Sendero profile Proof Research, you’ll need to measure for width and be sure it will fit. (Photo by Joseph von Benedikt)

Unfortunately, you can’t just ream out a 7mm Rem Mag chamber to make it a 7mm PRC. Whatever cartridge your donor rifle is chambered for, you’ll need a new barrel. You can opt for an entry-level replacement barrel, which will cost you around $200. Don’t do it. Spend the dollars for a premium, match-grade barrel. The 7mm PRC cartridge deserves it, and in the long run, you’ll never regret the extra money.

You can get a good all-steel Shaw Barrels, Bartlein, Proof Research or Krieger barrel for less than $400. If you want the ultimate hunting-rifle barrel and can stretch the wallet, splurge for a fine carbon-fiber-wrapped barrel. The extra diameter adds accuracy-enhancing stiffness without weight, and the vibration-dampening effect of the carbon fiber makes such barrels particularly forgiving and accurate.

Step 3: The Right Stock

How to Rebarrel a Rifle for 7mm PRC
Here’s the completed rifle. Although it’s a modern take on a classic rifle, the rich walnut really complements the carbon fiber and matte stainless. Plus, the rifle shoots wonderfully, which is always a rather endearing characteristic. (Photo by Joseph von Benedikt)

Without a stock that’s rigid and ergonomic, your rifle won’t shoot consistently, and you the shooter won’t be able to get the best accuracy your rifle possesses. If your donor rifle doesn’t have a good stock, buy an aftermarket one.

Best of the lot are the carbon-fiber and carbon-fiber blend stocks that are hand laid, not injection molded. They’re expensive, but worth every penny. Also good are laminated wood stocks. They’re rigid and impervious to heat and moisture extremes like carbon fiber. However, they’re quite heavy. On the plus side, they’re also quite affordable. If you use a natural wooden stock—like the walnut I used on the rifle built for this article project—use a good dense stick of walnut. Avoid birch or beech or other cheap woods. Be sure your gunsmith glass beds it fully and seals the barrel channel and magazine mortice against moisture so the stock will remain stable in various climates.

For the most part, avoid injection-molded plastic stocks. They’re impervious to moisture, yes, but they’re also flimsy and flexible and susceptible to extremes in heat and cold. I’ve seen injection-molded stocks become nearly malleable in 100+ temps and brittle enough to shatter in sub-zero temps.

Step 4: Hire a proper gunsmith

I can’t stress how important this is. No matter how premium the quality if your parts is, the craftsmanship of your chosen gunsmith will make or break your project. Don’t get a hobby ’smith who works out of his garage to do your work.

My Personal 7mm PRC Build

How to Rebarrel a Rifle for 7mm PRC
Your choice of gunsmith will make or break your project. Choose a good one, who will not only endow your new precision hunting rifle with accuracy. achieve a perfect wood-to-metal (or composite-to-metal) fit, without unsightly gaps. A fine custom rifle should be a thing of beauty, as well as function. Hill Country Rifles in Texas built this rifle. (Photo by Joseph von Benedikt)

Like Col. Townsend Whelen, who famously said, “Only accurate rifles are interesting,” I’m a fan of tack-drivers. I’m also a fan of extreme ballistic performance, which the 7mm PRC embodies. When assigned this article project, part of the protocol was to keep it simple and use whatever approach was most practical, just as most shooters interested in a similar project would. If I’d had a magnum Remington Model 700 action on hand that I wasn’t using, I’d have picked it. But I didn’t, and I was glad I didn’t.

What I did have was a stainless Winchester Model 70 action, with a poor-shooting .338 Win Mag barrel. Now, I’m a big fan of Mauser-based controlled-feed actions, and I gleefully dug up the dusty barreled action for my project. Few 7mm PRC rifles being built have controlled-feed actions. I’d be using mine in elk and bear country, and I figured it would not only be unique, it would be just right. I also had a nice walnut stock I’d taken off of a different M70 I had customized and re-stocked. Ideally, I’ll someday have a nice carbon fiber stock fit to the customized rifle, but for the time being time was short and the Walnut stock would serve beautifully—and again, be distinctive.

Because I’m a sucker for premium accuracy and forgiving consistency, I ordered a carbon-fiber-wrapped 22-inch Proof Research barrel with a 1:8 twist, so it will handle any and all high-BC long-range bullets. It’s the Sendero profile, so it’s as rigid as they come and will comfortably carry my titanium Banish 30 suppressor by Silencer Central. Plus, I was guessing the distinctive carbon fiber pattern in the Proof barrel would look smashing with the rich French Red finish on my walnut stock.

How to Rebarrel a Rifle for 7mm PRC
It’s important to utilize a magnum action for the 7mm PRC so the feed rails have compatible dimensions. Otherwise, your gunsmith may have to put in considerable (expensive) time to rework the feed rails to enable cartridges to feed.(Photo by Joseph von Benedikt)

Hill Country Rifles in Texas consented to expedite the build to help me make my deadline. HCR has a team of excellent gunsmiths, and does superlative work. Off went all my parts to Matt Bettersworth, my friend at HCR. Aside from an invisible issue with the M70s cocking piece, which HCR fixed, the rifle came together beautifully. I received an email from Matt stating, “…looks pretty darn good. Factory ELD-X shot right at ½ inch.”

As you can see from the photographs, Matt was right. The rifle looks great. It’s distinctive, classy, capable, and it shoots as well as it looks. I accuracy-tested two of Hornady’s 7mm PRC factory loads through it, firing three consecutive three-shot groups at 100 yards and was impressed. Factory-loaded 175-grain ELD-X bullets averaged .56-inch groups—in a blowing snowstorm. Muzzle velocity in the 22-inch barrel was 2,926 fps with a standard deviation of 14 fps.

How to Rebarrel a Rifle for 7mm PRC
The author’s 7mm PRC build averages half-MOA groups with Hornady’s 175-grain ELD-X factory ammo. (Photo by Joseph von Benedikt)

Hornady’s 180-grain ELD Match load is usually a tad more accurate, but in this rifle, it averaged 0.84-inch groups. Still good, but my rifle shoots the 175-grain ELD-X hunting load better. I’m glad, because this is a hunting rifle. It’s worth noting that the match ammo did turn in super good consistency, averaging 2,914 fps with just 9 fps of standard deviation. Factory ammo that scores in the single digits is impressive.

All you need to get your own custom 7mm PRC rifle built is a donor rifle with an appropriate action, match-grade 7mm barrel with 1:8-inch rifling twist, quality, stable stock and a trustworthy gunsmith with a 7mm PRC reamer. New factory-production rifles are sure to start trickling into the market place throughout 2024. However, it could be a long time before you find one that’s exactly what you want. Why wait? Build one.

Omphalotus illudens (Schwein.) Bresinsky & Besl – Jack o’ Lantern

0

Phylum: Basidiomycota – Class: Agaricomycetes – Order: Agaricales – Family: Marasmiaceae

Distribution – Taxonomic History – Etymology – Identification – Toxicity – Reference Sources

Jack o’ Lantern is a striking, bright orange mushroom that usually grows in dense tufts from the decaying underground roots of deciduous trees or from dead stumps and, less commonly fallen branches. It’s dual claim to fame is that it is a poisonous mushroom whose gills are (weakly!) bioluminescent. (A few gilled mushrooms and several other kinds of fungi are known to emit light. In a very dark environment, when your eyes have had time to adjust, the gills of Jack o’ Lantern can sometimes be seen glowing a ghostly green.)

Pictures on this page were taken in Pennsylvania by Dan Moore, with whose permission they are shown.

Distribution

In Britain this is a very rare species, and according to the British Mycological Society’s Checklist of Fungi of the British Isles only about 20 official records have been authenticated, all in southeast England. (The conservation status of Omphalotus illudens is Near Threatened on the 2006 Red Data List authored by Shelly Evans et al.) This species is also found in many parts of central and southern mainland Europe and in of North America, where according to mushroom expert Michael Kuo this species is common east of the Rocky Mountains.

Taxonomic history

This saprobic mushroom was described in 1822 by American botanist-mycologist Lewis David von Schweinitz (1780 – 1834), who gave it the binomial scientific name Agaricus illudens. (Most gilled fungi were initially placed in a giant Agaricus genus, now redistributed to many other genera.) The currently accepted scientific name Omphalotus illudens dates from a 1979 publication in Sydowia 8: 106 by mycologists Andreas Bresinsky (born 1935) and Helmut Besl, both of Regensburg University, Germany.

In Britain this mushroom has been incorrectly referred to as Omphalotus olearius, but that name belongs to a closely-related species that has not been confirmed as occurring in Britain. Valid synonyms of Omphalotus illudens include Agaricus illudens Schwein., and Clitocybe illudens (Schwein.) Sacc.

Etymology

The genus name Omphalotus means umbilicate (in the form of a navel), and refers to the central depression in mature caps, as seen in the picture above, while the specific epithet illudens means ‘deceiving’. Whether the latter is a reference to the fact that many people have been deceived into eating these toxic toadstools in the mistaken belief that they are Chanterelles remains unclear. (Omphalotus illudens is more easily confused with the deceptively similar Omphalotus olearius, which occurs nearly always with olive trees in southern Europe.)

Toxicity

Jack o’ Lantern and other members of the genus Omphalotus are seriously poisonous toadstools that contain the toxin muscarine; when eaten they cause gastric upsets that can last for several days. Poisoning by this species is not usually fatal, but great care must be taken when gathering edible orange-coloured mushrooms such as Chanterelles to avoid accidentally including Jack o’ Lantern. (Even more dangerous is the superficially similar Cortinarius rubellus, which has been responsible for many deaths.)

Identification guide

Cap

7 to 20cm across; initially convex with an inrolled margin, flattening and eventually developing an upturned wavy margin; smooth; bright orange to yellowish orange.

Gills

Decurrent; non-forking; colour as cap.

Stem

5 to 20cm long and 1 to 2cm diameter, smooth, tapering towards the base; yellowish orange, darkening towards the base.

Spores

Ellipsoidal to globose, smooth, 3.5-5 x 3.5-5µm.

Spore print

Creamy white.

Odour/taste

Odour quite strong but pleasant; taste not distinctive.

Habitat & Ecological role

Saprobic, on buried decaying hardwood roots, especially oaks and Sweet Chestnut, often in lawns and park grassland near to trees; also occasionally on hardwood stumps.

Season

July to October in Britain; through to late November in parts of North America

Similar species

Hygrophoropsis aurantiaca has forked gills and does not form caespitose clusters.

Reference Sources

Fascinated by Fungi, 2nd Edition, Pat O’Reilly 2016, reprinted by Coch-y-bonddu Books in 2022.

Dictionary of the Fungi; Paul M. Kirk, Paul F. Cannon, David W. Minter and J. A. Stalpers; CABI, 2008

Taxonomic history and synonym information on these pages is drawn from many sources but in particular from the British Mycological Society’s GB Checklist of Fungi.

Acknowledgements

This page includes pictures kindly contributed by Dan Moore and Nigel Kent.

Top of page…

FFP VS SFP: Which is Best for Hunting, Long Range, AR & More

0

These days, the availability of multiple types of scope configurations, focal planes, and features is a testament to how far telescopic sights have come over the years.

To those just getting into rifle scopes, it’s now a quandary to choose between FFP or SFP scopes.

How do you choose the best focal plane for your rifle or for the job?

The shooter must determine what the rifle will be used for 80-90% of the time. The intended application can help determine specific shooter needs that includes whether the benefits of FFP or SFP scopes are right for common approaches such as hunting, long range, or the AR-15.

More approaches to consider include combat, the LPVO, target shooting, and competition use. But before we get ahead of ourselves, what is FFP and SFP?

Let’s find out.

What is the Difference Between FFP and SFP Scopes?

Overall, the difference between FFP and SFP scopes is how the reticle performs in relation to magnification. FFP reticles will grow or decrease in size while SFP reticles will remain the same regardless of power changes. This is a direct result of where the reticle is placed in the scope.

Since both first and second focal plane rifle scopes look the same on the outside, you can’t tell them apart from appearance alone. Here is a rundown on FFP and SFP scopes to understand what they are, how they work, and their advantages.

What does FFP Mean on a Rifle Scope?

FFP means First Focal Plane but is also known as Front Focal Plane. What is FFP? It is the position of the reticle. It lies in front of the magnifying lens within the scope erector tube. The reticle increases in size as magnification increases and decreases in size as magnification decreases.

What Is FFP Low Magnification
Low Magnification
What is FFP Max Magnification
Maximum Magnification
Changes in the FFP reticle with magnification changes – Images by Tina Fa’apoi (Own Work) for Target Tamers

First Focal Plane Explained

Explaining first focal plane reticles must include discussion of subtension. FFP scopes have constant subtension. The measured amount of space/area the reticle covers up on a target remains the same regardless of magnification.

Subtension is the measurement of how much of a target or area is covered by the reticle at a specific distance. Because the reticle and magnification are in parallel, reticle crosshairs will always take up the same amount of space on a target whether you’re in low power or high.

What is SFP Low Mag
What is SFP Max Mag
FFP VS SFP: Which is Best for Hunting, Long Range, AR & More
FFP Reticle at High, Medium and Low Magnification – Images by Tina Fa’apoi (Own Work) for Target Tamers

What are the Advantages of a FFP Scope?

The first focal plane position of the reticle provides two primary advantages. First, constant subtension that allows for accurate ballistic holdovers at any magnification setting. Secondly, the magnified reticle at high magnification improves visibility of holdover points.

The best FFP scopes typically have a tactical or competition approach, but as hunters are demanding long range performance, FFP scopes can be used for hunting too.

FFP Pros & Cons

What does SFP Mean on a Rifle Scope?

SFP means Second Focal Plane but is also known as Rear Focal Plane. What is SFP? It is the position of the reticle. It lies behind the magnifying lens but in front of the eyepiece in a rifle scope. The reticle remains the same size (static) throughout the entire magnification range.

FFP VS SFP: Which is Best for Hunting, Long Range, AR & More
Low Magnification
FFP VS SFP: Which is Best for Hunting, Long Range, AR & More
Maximum Magnification
SFP reticle remains the same size throughout entire magnification range – Images by Tina Fa’apoi (Own Work) for Target Tamers

Second Focal Plane Explained

Explaining second focal plane reticles is cause for a discussion on subtension. Subtension is the measured amount of space or area on a target that crosshairs cover up at a specific distance. SFP reticles are important to understand as subtension is constantly changing as magnification changes.

The amount of space that the crosshairs cover up on a target at any distance will change as you increase or decrease magnification. As you increase power, the crosshairs will take up less ‘space’ on the target as the target gets larger in size. As you decrease power, the crosshairs will take up more ‘space’ on the target as the target gets smaller in size.

What are the Advantages of a SFP Scope?

Second focal plane advantages are many. With a reticle that doesn’t change size, it can provide better crosshair visibility for shooting in low magnifications. On the high end, it can improve visibility of small targets at max magnification. SFP scopes are common and more affordable than FFP scopes.

SFP Pros & Cons

FFP VS SFP: How to Choose?

Choosing between a FFP or SFP scope requires more insight than leaving it to personal preference alone. Other considerations such as magnification requirements and how the scope will be used most of the time must be factors that have weight in the final decision.

Hunting

What focal plane is best for hunting? Two factors must be considered: magnification and terrain. FFP scopes are compatible for high power and open country, mountainous terrain like Western big game hunting. SFP scopes can be great for low magnification and timber, brush, or Mid-West deer hunting.

Generally, 3-9x and 4-16x are great configurations for many hunting conditions and game as they can cover plenty of ground. The visibility of a reticle that doesn’t change size at low powers in lowlight conditions gives the SFP scope an edge that FFP cannot provide.

Normal reticle visibility of a SFP is also preferred for those in heavy brush and thick timber environments. With FFP reticles, the crosshairs can get too small and are difficult to see as they appear ‘lost’ against the terrain.

So, is FFP any good for hunting? FFP allows for accurate holdovers at any magnification, and it can be maximized to its full potential if you’re consistently hunting with magnifications of more than 12x. This is great for long-range, open country, and unpredictable, mountainous terrain. Dialing in or messing with magnification to get to the calibrated power to use the right holdover point on a SFP scope is less than ideal.

Ultimately, the last 30 minutes of last legal light is often the golden hour of filling a tag. Clarity, resolution, and brightness is best achieved in the lower powers, and since FFP scopes have a hard time with reticle visibility in low light and low power, the SFP remains the favorite focal plane scope for deer hunters.

Winner: SFP

Long Range

Long range shooting often means high magnification and a lot of dialing in or heavy dependence on the reticle. Whether it’s hunting or competitive shooting, long range performance is best done with a FFP scope.

FFP reticles are clearly the best scopes for long range shooting. The first benefit is that you can maximize use out of a complex reticle. With multiple elevation and windage holdovers that will always be accurate regardless of magnification, it makes for fast and straightforward decisions. This benefit also boosts confidence in reducing POI shifts when you do adjust the power.

Secondly, the reticle becomes larger in size as you crank up power. This makes it easier to see the crosshairs, hashmarks, and/or dots. The catch-22 is that on very small targets, FFP reticle subtension can obscure significant areas making it harder for exacting shots.

Is FFP or SFP better for long range shooting? SFP scopes will work for bench shooters who aren’t on the clock and content shooting from max power. Quality glass and turrets are essential. You’ll always have an easy to see reticle regardless of magnification. However, FFP is better suited to the job.

Winner: FFP

AR15

The AR-15 is a favorite and popular rifle used for everything from target shooting to hunting, law enforcement and competitions. FFP or SFP scopes can be mounted to a MSR to fit your requirements and intended applications.

Choosing between FFP or SFP scopes for an AR15 or any type of MSR comes down to intended applications and the range of magnification you will be using 80-90% of the time.

SFP is suitable for many applications especially when magnification is less than 12x. SFP scopes are very user-friendly on the low power end versus FFP scopes. Having a max of 12x or even pushing it to 14x with SFP is suitable for some long-range performance, and at that point, you can rely on holdover points onboard the reticle.

FFP will really shine for long range shooting, competition, and some hunting styles. Being able to increase the power but not max out and still have accurate holdovers is critical for these applications.

Since you can do a lot of various things with an AR, the type of focal plane scope you opt for should be suited to what you will be doing with it.

Winner: Tie

Combat

The LPVO or a high-powered scope used for combat, tactical, or home defense situations will have a reticle placed either in the first or second focal planes. For most professional scenarios, CQB performance is paramount.

The SFP reticle is constant, easy to see, and well suited to CQB combat. Even when you change magnification within 250 yards, there shouldn’t be any need to hold, at least on a man size target. A lot of law enforcement (LE) combat engagements are extremely close, and LE sniper scenarios may be closer than most people think.

You can opt for either FFP or SFP scopes for tactical use, but with a 50 to 100-yard zero, SFP will serve its purpose for close to mid ranges.

FFP reticles certainly have their place and can be extremely beneficial on magnified optics when holding over or for fast corrections and follow-up shots at a distance. It may come down to the type of combat and distance or speed requirements you anticipate needing.

Do snipers use FFP or SFP? It may depend on who you talk to. It’s been said that veteran snipers preferred the fixed 10x power scope. It may also depend on if it’s military or local police. Oftentimes, the budget is the determining factor versus the preference over reticle focal planes.

Winner: Tie

LPVO (Low Power Variable Optic)

LPVO scopes are close to mid-range optics and are great on tactical carbines. The 1x magnification and red dot capability are must-have features, but the low variable magnification makes it a versatile optic. SFP is appropriate for most scenarios, but FFP can provide distance advantages.

FFP reticles on a LPVO would be best suited to those who know they will be engaging targets at multiple and varied distances. This would be appropriate for competition shooters and military men and women on the front line. The use of a FFP LPVO will also ensure fast and accurate shots using holdovers.

It is worth mentioning that quality LPVO scopes with FFP reticles should be visible and fast to use in the low powers. FFP reticles are more common to find in 1-8x or 1-10x LPVO scopes.

In most circumstances, the SFP remains attractive to the LPVO user and is the most common type of focal plane available in 1-4x and 1-6x scopes. Even if you’re shooting over 300 yards, outside of specialized circumstances, you’ll likely have the time needed to dial in or max out the power for accurate holdovers. With a LPVO for an AR, there’s not much to complain about when it comes to using max power.

Winner: SFP

Target Shooting

There are many forms of target shooting from plinking, rimfire fun, and 100-yard shooting to testing out long-range skills and scope ability. For most purposes other than long range, the SFP reticle is the perfect scope for these scenarios.

A lot of people don’t need FFP scopes and target shooters generally fall into that category. Many target shooters are at the bench or in prone positions and aren’t racing against the clock. They have the time to dial in adjustments and shoot from the center point at their pace and will do fine with a SFP scope.

FFP may be desired for long range target shooting or perhaps for those who want a scope for aging eyes that allows them to see a larger reticle. More magnification doesn’t make you a better shooter, but it does allow you to see better.

The same can be said if you’re considering FFP or SFP for 22LR rimfires. Take into consideration what you’re using it for 80% of the time, the targets you’re shooting, and the distances. FFP would be great for target shooting practice for PRS matches but can obscure F-class smallbore targets. For most recreational purposes without holds, SFP does it.

Winner: SFP

3-Gun/Competition

Speed and accuracy are just two factors that are must-have features from a rifle scope for 3-Gun and many types of shooting competition matches. FFP is the way to go for varied distances and on-the-clock shots.

Precision marksmen almost always prefer FFP scopes. The ability to use accurate holdovers at any magnification makes for fast shots. You lose time with constantly dialing in on an SFP scope, decreasing magnification for wide FOVs to find the next target and then cranking it up to make a shot, or always being stuck max power.

The top scopes for competition shooting usually have a very wide magnification range allowing for adjustable FOVs for the widely varied target distances. The downside to the FFP is that the reticle can get small at lower power making it harder to see that center dot. Illumination can help to alleviate the problem. Nonetheless, the SFP has an advantage in that it always stays at its normal, visible size and is usually thin enough to see F-class smallbore targets.

Pro Tip: Some shooters in competitions that allow for more than one optic will use an FFP scope and red dot sight combo with a 45-degree offset mount.

Winner: FFP

SFP VS FFP: Which is Best for You?

The right scope will be the one that is best suited to the intended application. If it’s about cost alone, the SFP is cheaper as FFP reticles are nearly always glass-etched and precision alignment is imperative. Beyond the budget, choose the scope that offers the most advantages for the application.

In general, FFP is great for long range, high magnification, competition, and some professional tactical and hunting applications.

SFP is very good for most target shooting, hunting, and CQB performance. If you’re not holding over often, prefer consistent visibility of the reticle, or shoot small targets often, SFP is the way to go.

Keep in mind that experienced shooters find ways to help mitigate some of the problems inherent in each focal plane and work with it. Don’t let complex math, budget, or existing biases get in the way of choosing the right type of scope for you and for the job.

Further Reading

  • How to Measure Scope Ring Height (With Pics & Calculations)
  • How to Adjust a Rifle Scope: 6 Scope Adjustments Explained!
  • How to Level a Scope on a Rifle [Step-by-Step With Pics]
  • What is a Rifle Scope Ruler (Mildot Master) & How to Use It?
  • How to Lap Scope Rings (& Is Lapping Really Necessary?)

Shots to the Vital Areas

0

Image of White-tailed deer buck indicating vital area

When taking a shot at a game animal, the goal of the hunter should be to deliver a well placed shot to the vital organs. Knowing the anatomy of your quarry will allow you to place the shot in the most vital spot. This insures a quick, clean kill, which minimizes the suffering of the animal and maximizes the chance of retrieving the downed animal. The angle that the animal is standing in relation to the hunter is the shot angle. If the animal does not present a good shot angle to the hunter, it’s best to wait for the shot angle to improve.

The Broadside Shot

The Broadside Shot presents the largest target area to strike the heart and lungs. For the novice hunter this is the best shot to take. It is just behind the shoulder bones. Properly placed, the bullet will strike the ribs and probably pass completely through the chest cavity.

White-tailed deer with vital area indicated White-tailed deer with crosshairs positioning indicated

To find the best shot placement, look at the front leg facing you, along a line on the back side of this leg, come up one third of the way into the body. This is the place you want your bullet or arrow to impact.

Turkey broadside with vital areas indicated

The broadside shot for turkey is the best for bowhunters. With a firearm, the head and neck are the best place to aim. Most of the meat on a turkey is in the breast. By aiming for the head with a rifle or grouping for the head and neck with a shotgun, you won’t damage the breast meat.

Quartering-Toward

White-tailed deer in quartering toward position

Quartering-Towardis a shot angle from the front of the animal when their body is angled towards you. This angle still affords a shot to the vital area, however, there is a greater chance of hitting bones in the shoulder. Since the animal is facing you, it can easily detect any movements. Bowhunters should avoid taking this shot because of the added density of the shoulder bones that the arrow must penetrate. Also, many times the animal can see the arrow in flight.

Quartering-Away

Mule deer in quartering away position

Quartering-Awayis a shot angle where the animal’s body is angled away from you. You still have a shot at the vital areas and should aim behind the shoulder. You must be confident of your accuracy with your firearm as misplacement of the shot can result in a “gut-shot,” a shot to the stomach and intestines. Not only does the animal suffer when gut-shot but it can still travel a great distance and there is a good chance you may lose it.

Head-On

Head on angle of White-tailed doe

Head-On means the animal is standing directly facing you. The vital organs can still be hit but there is a good chance the bullet will damage a good deal of meat. Depending on the velocity of the bullet, it could also pass through and hit the stomach, even continuing into one of the rear legs, ruining even more meat. Bowhunters should not take this shot.

Rear-End

Rear end view of White-tailed buck

Rear-End is exactly that, an angle directly behind the animal. No large vital area is presented. Never take this shot with firearm or bow. Wait for a better shot or pass.

two bucks at bad angle for successful shot

The shot angle on both of these bucks is not good. You should wait for a better angle to the vital area.

Spring Food Plots | What, When, and How

0

spring food plots

We can’t think of a better form of social distancing than spending time farming for wildlife. A goal for all GamKeepers and hunters is having a healthy deer herd. Spring and summer are critical months in a whitetail’s life; bucks are rebuilding their bodies from a rigorous winter and starting the amazing antler genesis process. Does have the task of eating for two or three as most of them are carrying fawns to be born later in summer. Consistent, protein-rich food sources are key to helping your deer reach their potential. Mossy Oak BioLogic has a wide variety of spring/summer plantings to fit every wildlife manager’s needs. Invest in the best warm season food plots now, and make sure to give your wildlife the nutrition they need during the critical growing months.

Wildlife Sweet Corn

BioLogic Sweet Corn

BioLogic’s Wildlife Sweet Corn is a blend of 3 varieties of conventional, open-pollinated (think heirloom) corn that have over a century of proven reliability. BioLogic’s Wildlife Sweet Corn has a sugar content higher than that of new hybrids, and is generally consumed earlier in the fall/winter especially when planted in areas with surrounding agricultural corn. The higher protein and nutrient content of this “sweet” corn is a major bonus for your wildlife. These proven, open-pollinated varieties of corn are non-GMO, and are not glyphosate resistant, but can be paired with conventional corn herbicides.

When to Plant Wildlife Sweet Corn

Wildlife Sweet Corn needs 90-100 days of warm growing to reach maturity and maximum yield. Plant late April to early June for the South, early May to early June for the North.

How to Plant Wildlife Sweet Corn

Corn should be planted at 1.5-2 inches soil depth. Planters and no-till drills are ideal for planting if available. Corn can also be broadcast planted into a well prepared seed bed. Corn seed should be covered to the suggested depth by using a drag harrow or by lightly disking in. Ideally the field can also then be cultipacked or rolled for increased seedling survival. As a bonus, this sweet corn is awesome to take home a few ears and feed your family with!

Clover Plus

BioLogic Clover Plus

Few plants are more effective at attracting whitetail and turkey than clover. BioLogic’s Clover Plus is a perennial blend of our New Zealand Red and White clovers and extremely successful varieties of chicory. Developed specifically for a whitetails stomach, Clover Plus produces larger, more succulent leaves and thinner stems for higher nutritional value and improved digestibility. Both clover and chicory are extremely hardy and drought-resistant, yielding consistent production through the hot months of summer. It’s a combination of high nutrition, great attraction and consistent growth that deer can’t resist.

When to Plant Clover Plus

In the south, plant Clover Plus in early fall, as soon as soil moisture is sufficient for seed germination. Spring planting isn’t recommended; frequent summer drought conditions could limit root growth. In the north, plant Clover Plus in the spring when soil temperature is 50 degrees or higher and soil moisture is sufficient. Fall planting isn’t recommended; frost may occur before root systems are established. This blend can also be frost-seeded in the spring.

How to Plant Clover Plus

Clover Plus is best planted by spreading on a well-prepared seedbed at 9 pounds per acre, then using a cultipacker or light drag to cover the seed. Grasses can be controlled in Clover Plus using a grass specific herbicide such as clethodim.

Spring Protein Peas

BioLogic Spring Protein Peas

BioLogic Spring Protein Pea is an annual warm season planting that is designed to provide maximum nutrition for your deer herd through the critical growing months. Protein Peas is a very drought and browse tolerant planting that grows in a wide variety of soil types and is great for hot climates. In areas of high deer density, Protein Peas may need protection with BioLogic’s P2 Plot Protector so plants can get established.

When to Plant Spring Protein Peas

Spring Protein Peas can be planted anytime in the spring or summer months. For maximum forage output, plant in spring 2-3 weeks after the last frost for your region when soil temperatures reach 55-60 degrees.

How to Plant Spring Protein Peas

Spring Protein Peas can be broadcast onto a well prepared seed bed and covered to 1 inch of soil depth. Seeds left on the soil surface may have poor germination and be eaten by pests. Without a current soil test to go by, fertilize with 200-300 pounds per acre of 0-20-20 or a comparable low or no nitrogen fertilizer. This blend can also be planted with a no-till drill or similar planters, use the setting for small peas at 30-35 pounds per acre. Set planting depth to 1 inch. Spring Protein Peas can be sprayed with grass specific herbicides to kill any grass competition in the plot.

WhistleBack

BioLogic Whistleback

This same principal of proper timing and planning applies for other plantings for doves, ducks, pheasants, etc. Planting areas specifically for birds is beneficial for a property not just from a hunting standpoint. Often times these plantings are used in strips or transition zones adjacent to food plots for deer. The step down effect from timber to grassy seed producing plants to lower growing green groceries creates diversity and makes for awesome wildlife habitat including a lot of small mammals, song birds, and insects. BioLogic’s WhistleBack is a warm season blend of sorghum, millets, and sunflowers. This mix is designed to produce massive amounts of seed, and at the same time offer cover for many species of upland birds. This blend contains varieties that all grow and mature at different heights, offering food to birds as small as quail and doves on up to pheasants or turkeys.

When to Plant WhistleBack

Ideally plant late spring and early summer. The plants in WhistleBack are designed to grow and mature by the end of the summer. The seeds will shatter and naturally distribute on the ground, being consumed by birds in the fall and winter.

How to Plant WhistleBack

Sorghums, millets, and sunflowers all require the same basic planting depth and ground preparation should be as follows. No-till drills work great for these seeds, and most drills have a setting for planting all of these seed producing plants. If using traditional planting methods, I would suggest spraying the area to be planted a week to ten days ahead of planting with a non-selective herbicide, such as glyphosate, to kill all existing vegetation. Ground to be planted can then be disked or tilled and then cultipacked or rolled to create a firm seed bed. Seed can then be broadcast and dragged in with a chain harrow or cultipacked again. Ideal planting depth is about 1 inch. Obviously, seed left on the surface of the soil is easy picking for all types of birds and insects.

Turkey Gold Chufa

BioLogic NWTF Turkey Gold Chufa

Another very popular planting for turkey and waterfowl is chufa. BioLogic Turkey Gold Chufa is without a doubt the most attractive planting for turkeys. Chufa needs to be planted in the late spring/early summer when there is at least 90+ days of growing season left before any threat of frost would arrive. This gives the chufa time to establish, build a root structure and begin to develop the tubers that turkey are so crazy about. Chufa is also pretty easy to manage weeds in since it is in the sedge family of plants. This allows you to use a grass specific herbicide to kill any invasive grasses or a broadleaf herbicide such as 2,4D. As the chufa matures in the early fall it can begin to provide food all the way into the next spring and ideally keeping your turkeys at home right up till the season.

When to Plant Chufa

Planting times for BioLogic Chufa are late April to early June for the South, early May to early June for the North.

How to Plant Chufa

Chufa should be planted at 1.5-2 inches soil depth. Planters and no-till drills are ideal for planting if available. Chufa can also be broadcast planted into a well-prepared seed bed. Chufa seed should be covered to the suggested depth by using a drag harrow or by lightly disking in. Ideally the field can also then be cultipacked or rolled for increased seedling survival.

What Is A Baby Deer Called?

0

Baby deer are enchanting creatures, and they grow up to be some of the most graceful animals in the forest. But what do you call a baby deer? In this blog post, we’ll explore the different names of baby deer, as well as their characteristics, and where they live. Stay tuned to learn more!

What is a baby deer called? 

A baby deer is called a fawn. Fawns are usually born in the spring, and they have a spotted coat that helps them camouflage in the forest. Their mother will take care of them for the first year of their lives, teaching them how to survive in the wild. After that, they will join a herd and live for around 10 years.

It’s interesting to note that elk, moose, and reindeer are all species of deer but instead are called calves. So, why are smaller deer species known by a different name?

The origin of fawn as the name for baby deer comes from the word fawn. In Old, English fawn meant rejoice or to be glad. Today we might say we “fawn” over a cute baby, but in Old English, the phrase stuck with what we call baby deer! 

INTERESTING FACTS ABOUT FAWNS:

-Fawns can run shortly after they are born

-A fawn’s spots will fade as they get older

-Fawns are very curious creatures and are not afraid to approach humans

-If a fawn is lost or abandoned, it is illegal to take them in and care for them yourself. You must contact a wildlife rehabilitator to help

-Fawns are native to Europe, Asia, and North America

THE PURPOSE OF SPOTS ON BABY DEER:

The spots on a fawn’s coat serve two purposes. The first is to camouflage the fawn in the forest, making it harder for predators to spot them. The second is to distract predators from attacking the fawn’s vulnerable body parts, like the neck and belly.

(Do Female Deer Have Antlers? See this post for more)

FAQs

How much do baby deer weigh?

Fawns usually weigh around six pounds at birth.

What do baby deer eat?

Baby deer, or fawns, drink their mother’s milk for the first few months of their lives. After that, they start to eat leaves, grass, and other plants.

How long do baby deer stay with their mothers?

Fawns stay with their mothers for the first year of their lives. During that time, the mother will protect her fawn from predators and teach it how to survive in the wild.

What is a baby deer’s survival rate?

The Survival Rate for fawns is only about fifty percent. This means that half of all baby deer will not survive to adulthood.

What are the different types of deer?

There are many different types of deer, depending on the region. Some common types of deer include red deer, white-tailed deer, mule deer, and elk.

Where do deer live?

Deer can be found all over the world, but they typically live in forests, meadows, and fields.

What is the life span of a deer?

The average life span for a deer is around 5-9 years.

Conclusion

A baby deer is called a fawn but elk, moose, and reindeer are all species of deer instead are called calves. 

4 Ways to Connect Trail Camera to Computer: View Photos/Videos

0

After months of filming wildlife, it’s time to see just what your trail camera captured. Here’s how to view trail camera photos on your computer. The methods vary from simple to fastest. Some methods are automated and require monthly data plans.

There are 4 ways to view your trail camera photos on a computer. They include using a USB cable, using an SD card reader, connecting via WiFi, or syncing photos with a cellular trail camera. Each method will connect your camera and upload your footage to a computer.

How to View Trail Camera Footage on a Computer

Here’s how to view and upload your photos and videos to your computer.

They are listed in order of easiest to more complex. It’s worth noting that the easiest method isn’t the fastest.

1. Connect With Supplied USB Cable (Easiest)

This is an easy method because most trail cameras ship with a USB cable.

This cable is for viewing your photos on a computer. It isn’t for charging, because trail cameras recommend against using rechargeable batteries.

Once connected, your trail camera should automatically display in File Explorer. Your trail camera will display “Mass Storage” or an equivalent term.

Most trail cameras will automatically turn on when connected via USB, regardless of the position of their power button. If it doesn’t power on, turn the power switch on.

  1. Connect your USB cable to your trail camera.
  2. And insert the other end into your computer. If the camera isn’t recognized automatically, press Window Key + E. This will open File Explorer.
  3. Navigate to “This PC”, in the left sidebar. Your trail cam should be visible under this header. It will likely show as “USB Drive”. One folder should be visible: DCIM
  4. Open the DCIM folder. You’ll likely see two folders: Movie and Photo. The number of folders may vary, depending on the manufacturer of your trail camera.
  5. From here, just drag and drop the files to your computer.

Two Requirements: This method requires that your trail camera have a battery charge. And that you know where your USB cable is.

These are two reasons I prefer the next method. It cuts the camera right out of the equation. This means that battery levels don’t matter. And I don’t have to worry about locating that random cable.

Plus, the next method is faster too.

2. SD Card Reader (Fastest)

This is also a pretty simple way to view your trail camera footage. And if your computer has an SD card reader you won’t need any additional gear.

If you swap out SD cards, your camera can continue to film with its new card, while you’re uploading footage from the old one.

Just pop out your SD card and drop it in the SD card reader. If your computer doesn’t have one built-in, you’ll need to pick one up.

I’ve been using this one by Anker for a few years and I love it. It is USB 3.0 for fast connection and it has slots for standard SD and Micro SD cards.

Here are the steps to view and upload your trail camera footage:

  1. Remove the SD card from your trail camera. Make sure that the camera is powered off.
  2. Insert the card into either a USB card reader or SD card adapter.
  3. Now insert this into your computer. If the card isn’t recognized automatically, press Window Key + E. This will open File Explorer.
  4. Navigate to “This PC”, in the left sidebar. Your trail cam should be visible under this header. It will likely show as “USB Drive”. One folder should be visible: DCIM
  5. Open the DCIM folder. You’ll likely see two folders: Movie and Photo. The number of folders may vary, depending on the manufacturer of your trail camera.
  6. From here, just drag and drop the files to your computer.

This is my favorite method. I have an SD card reader on my desk. And it’s also how I connect my other cameras (GoPro, Canon, Sony, and Olympus) to my computer.

If you don’t love waiting for file transfer, you should consider using an SD card reader. This method is faster than using a USB cable. This is because transfer rates are faster with the USB 3.0 reader than with the supplied cable.

How much faster is a SD card reader? In my test, the USB cable method averaged around 9 MB/s. And the SD card reader transferred the same set of photos and videos (14.1 GB) at a speed of 88 MB/s. That’s almost 10X faster.

  • Via USB Cable: 26 minutes
  • Via SD Card Reader: Under 3 minutes

Variables: I used the same USB hub and the same SD card (rated for 80 MB/s.

Once you have your SD card connected to your computer, it’s a good idea to format it. Make sure you do this AFTER you upload your footage!

Here’s more about how to properly format your SD card for a trail camera.

3. Connect via WiFi

If you have a WiFi module on your trail camera, you can try to connect this to your home network, and to your phone, via the manufacturer’s app.

A few notes about viewing via WiFi. Your camera will need to be close to your connection. This feature is not made for long-range transmission. Or to deal with physical barriers, like a few trees.

The WiFi module in the camera is underpowered because the batteries are small and power is reserved for filming, not transmitting.

4. Sync Footage From Cellular Trail Camera

If you’re using a cellular-connected trail camera, the images are automatically uploaded to cloud-based storage, where you can access them from your phone or computer.

This is a pretty great option if you have the budget for the purchase of the cellular trail camera and the monthly fee for the data plan. Here’s an explanation of this by Moultrie.

The Final Result

Follow these simple steps and you’ll have your footage and photos uploaded and ready to view.

Here are some clips that I uploaded this morning from some birds this past winter.

Keep reading: Here’s how to troubleshoot a trail camera that won’t turn on.

Your Turn

How do you view trail camera photos on your computer? Have a tip to share? Let me know below!

Best Air Rifle Deals

Popular Posts

How to make a break barrel air rifle more powerful

0
"Unleash the Power: Mastering Break Barrel Air Rifles for Maximum Performance. Discover expert tips and techniques to enhance the power and precision of your...

Synthetic vs Wood Stock: The Final Showdown Between Brunette And Blonde

0
I understand that you’re here to get some quick facts on synthetic vs wood stocks Probably to guide your purchase.  Quick alert - the debate...

Gas vs Spring Piston: Which One is Better?

0
Today, you can find 5 different types of air rifles available in the industry. They are: spring pistons, gas pistons, PCP air rifles, variable...