One bitter cold January morning, I found myself in the duck blind of a good friend, an older gentleman with the title to a prime piece of Pamlico Sound saltmarsh. About mid-day, my breakfast was wearing thin, and I wondered aloud if there were any snacks to be had. My pal pointed me to a cooler in the stern of the boat. It’s loaded, he said. Help yourself. I opened up the lid. Inside I found a bag of chips, a jar of salsa, and enough canned beanie weenies for a small expeditionary force. Perhaps you have never wondered what ice-cold beanie weenies taste like in a 22-degree saltmarsh. Methinks you never should.

I thought of that day this past spring as I was loading up for a quick, two-day canoe camping trip along the Roanoke River. I’d volunteered to handle dinner duties, so I knew what sort of food would be desired. The cooler held 24 dove breast fillets, fresh Parmesan cheese, olive oil, garlic, chopped parsley, and other things rarely found in a two-man canoe. My buddy, Scott, was packing breakfast. I didn’t know what he had up his sleeve. But I knew Scott…and I knew it wasn’t instant grits and Pop Tarts. If I’m cooking breakfast, he’d told me earlier, then make sure you pack plenty of stove fuel. I could feel my arteries hardening already.

So here are some recipes to take your shore lunches and riverside dinners to a new level. They’re easy. A few call for wild game, but you can substitute your favorite cuts of meat. Most can be prepared with a single skillet, and all are designed for a backpacking stove. These recipes will make you forget all about beanie weenies.

DOVES CARBONARA

On my last canoe-camping trip, we feasted on this little bit of Italy deep in the swampwoods of eastern North Carolina. The hardest part about cooking this dish is not eating the dove breast fillets right out of the pan.

• One dozen dove breasts, filleted
• 2 garlic cloves, minced
• 12 ounces uncooked, thin spaghetti noodles
• ¾ cup grated Parmesan cheese
• 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley
• 1 cup milk
• 3 eggs
• 2 tablespoons butter
• ½ teaspoon black pepper

AT HOME: Fillet dove breasts, and place in plastic baggie. Chop parsley. Break eggs, and combine with milk; store in small water bottle.

IN THE FIELD: Cook spaghetti noodles and drain. Melt butter in large nonstick skillet. Sauté dove breasts and minced garlic for one minute. Reduce heat to low, and stir in noodles, cheese, parsley, and pepper. Pour egg-milk mixture over noodles, and cook about four minutes, stirring constantly, until sauce thickens.

NO SWEAT ASIAN VENISON

This is a one-pan wonder. It’s cheap, easy, filling, and fast, and makes its way to my home table a couple of times a month in various interpretations. Replace the venison with shrimp and the beef-flavored noodles with shrimp-flavored noodles, and have an entirely different taste.

• 12 ounces uncooked, thin spaghetti noodles
• 2 garlic cloves, minced
• ¾ cup grated Parmesan cheese
• 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley
• 1 cup milk
• 3 eggs
• 2 tablespoons butter
• ½ teaspoon black pepper
• 1 pound venison, cut into strips
• 2 teaspoons dark sesame oil, divided
• 1 12-ounce package of broccoli slaw
• 1 cup sliced green onion
• 2 packages of beef-flavored ramen noodle soup
• 1 ½ cups water
• 2 tablespoons soy sauce

AT HOME: Slice green onions into half-inch pieces. Slice tenderloin into thin slices.IN THE FIELD: Heat one teaspoon sesame oil in a skillet over medium-high heat; add venison and onions, and sauté about one minute. Remove to a separate plate. Heat remaining oil until hot; add broccoli slaw, stir-fry one minute. Add to plate with venison and onions. Add water to skillet and bring to a boil. Add noodles from both packages and seasoning packet from one package. Cook until most of the liquid is absorbed, stirring frequently. Stir in venison, onions, and slaw, add soy sauce and combine.

FISH FRIED RICE

Stir-frying cold rice prevents the grains from clumping. Add to the mix bite-sized chunks of fresh fish—the firmer the flesh, the better—and here’s a meal you can cook in one pot quickly. Use 1½ pounds of fish fillets, cut into bite-sized pieces.

• 4 tablespoons soy sauce
• 1/8 teaspoon minced ginger root
• 1/8 teaspoon ground red pepper
• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided
• 1 cup canned peas
• 1/3 cup green onions, sliced
• 2 packages boil-in-bag rice, chilled
• 2 tablespoons fresh parsley, chopped
• 3 eggs

AT HOME: Mince ginger root, and mix with red pepper and soy sauce; store in small plastic bottle. Chop parsley. Chop green onions into ¼-inch pieces. Cook rice, then store in plastic baggies.IN THE FIELD: Heat one tablespoon of vegetable oil in large skillet over medium high heat. Stir-fry fish fillets one minute. Add peas and onions, stir-fry 2 minutes. Add soy sauce, stir well, and remove the fish mixture from pan. Heat one tablespoon of vegetable oil, and add the rice and chopped parsley. Stir-fry one minute. Scrape mixture away from center of pan, leaving a softball-sized hole. Add eggs and scramble. Mix with rice and fish.

CHOPPED DUCK SANDWICHES IN CHERRY BARBECUE SAUCE

I first tried these sandwiches during the peak of the striper run on the Roanoke River. Almost forgot to fish. This is an excellent barbecue sauce for chicken, so make a double portion and freeze the leftovers. You can find the ancho chilies in specialty food stores and fine grocery stores.

• 1 cup apple cider vinegar
• 1/3 cup ketchup
• 1/3 cup chopped onion
• 1/3 cup dried tart cherries
• 1/8 cup water
• 1 ½ tablespoons molasses
• 1 large dried ancho chili pepper
• 1 garlic clove
• ½ teaspoon ground coriander
• pinch of ground cloves
• 2 pounds duck meat, chopped
• 4 large kaiser rolls

AT HOME: Grill or sauté duck breasts or whole ducks, then chop the meat. Remove stem and seeds from ancho chili pepper. Combine all ingredients (except for duck) in a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil, then reduce head to medium-low, cover, and simmer until cherries are tender (about 20 minutes). Let cool, then puree the mixture in a blender. If needed, return sauce to pan, and simmer uncovered until sauce thickens to consistency of tomato-based barbecue sauce. Add chopped duck.IN THE FIELD: Load up the buns and eat.

CAJUN FISH WRAPS WITH SLAW

This is easier than falling off a mossy log. To make it even easier, buy cole slaw from your grocer, but you’ll miss the apple punch of the cider vinegar. A great thing about wrap sandwiches is that you can eat them with one hand, leaving the other hand free to grab a rod and set the hook.WRAPS

• 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
• 6 tablespoons Cajun seasoning powder
• 4 half-pound fish fillets
• 1 tablespoon butter
• 4 8-inch flour tortillas

SLAW

• 3 ½ cups thinly sliced red or green cabbage
• ¼ cup mayonnaise
• 1 ½ tablespoons cider vinegar
• ½ teaspoon sugar

AT HOME: Make the slaw by combining all four ingredients in a bowl, cover, and chill in a plastic baggie.IN THE FIELD: Catch fish, fillet fish. Mix flour and Cajun powder in a plastic baggie, add fillets one at a time, and shake until covered. Melt butter in a skillet, and sauté fillets until done. Place one fillet in a flour tortilla, top with slaw, roll up and eat.

GRILLED VENISON TENDERLOIN SANDWICHES WITH SUN-DRIED TOMATO MAYONNAISE

Cold, thinly sliced venison is the finest sandwich meat ever made. I’ve packed these sandwiches into duck blinds and on paddle trips for years. One of the secrets is good bread. I don’t know what’s better—the sandwiches, or the looks on the faces of my pals as they stare into yet another PB&J.

• ½ cup soy sauce
• ½ cup Italian dressing
• 1 to 1 ½ pound venison tenderloin
• 4 tablespoons prepared sun-dried tomato pesto, such as Bella Cucina
• 4 tablespoons mayonnaise
• 8 leaves Romaine lettuce
• 8 slices onion
• 4 hearty grain sandwich rolls or 8 slices of bread such as sunflower or nut grain

AT HOME: Combine pesto and mayonnaise; store in refrigerator. Combine soy sauce and Italian dressing; marinate tenderloin overnight. Slice onions into 8 thick slices, with all rings intact. Grill tenderloin and onion rings. Prepare each sandwich with: sliced tenderloin, 2 tablespoons sun-dried tomato mayonnaise, and two onion slices. Place lettuce leaves in separate plastic baggie.IN THE FIELD: Add lettuce to sandwiches. Keep an eye on the bobber.

Have you ever wanted to go on an iguana hunt? Florida is the perfect place to do it! With its warm climate and abundance of iguanas, the Sunshine State is a mecca for iguana hunting. In this ultimate guide, we’ll show you how to plan and execute a successful Iguana hunt in Florida. We’ll cover everything from equipment and supplies, to where to find the best hunting spots. So whether you’re a beginner or a seasoned pro, this guide will help you have a successful and enjoyable hunt. Let’s get started!

Is hunting green iguanas even legal in Florida?

Yes, iguana hunting is legal in Florida. Green iguanas are an exotic reptile species that, other than Florida’s anti-cruelty law, is not safeguarded in the state. On private properties where landowner permission has been granted, this species can be kindly euthanized year-round without a permit or hunting license on 25 designated public lands throughout South Florida.

Are Green Iguanas an Invasive Specie to Florida?

Yes, green iguanas are an invasive specie in Florida. They were first introduced to the state as pets, but they have since become naturalized and now pose a threat to native wildlife. The green iguana is disruptive to local ecosystems and studies show that their population size has increased exponentially over the last decade. They are capable of destroying vegetation and may even spread disease. Therefore, the green iguana is considered a pest species in Florida and their population is actively managed.

Why are Green Iguanas Invasive to Florida?

Green iguanas have been found to out-compete native wildlife, including birds and small mammals, for food. They also eat plants that are important to the local ecosystem, such as fruit trees and sea grape bushes. Additionally, green iguanas can carry salmonella bacteria which they can spread through their droppings. Studies have even shown green iguanas to be implicated in the transmission of other diseases, including chytridiomycosis. All of these factors have led to green iguanas being labeled as an invasive species in Florida and actively managed by state wildlife authorities.

Where are Green Iguanas Native to?

Green iguanas are native to Central and South America. They are most commonly found in tropical forests, but have been known to inhabit other habitats such as grasslands, marshes, rainforests and coastal areas. They can be found from Mexico down to northern Argentina. In recent years green iguanas have been introduced to parts of the US, including Florida and Hawaii. As an invasive species, green iguanas can be found in many areas where they are not native.

Did Green Iguanas come from a Cuban Cargo Ships in the 1960s?

There is a popular theory that green iguanas were introduced to Florida from Cuban cargo ships in the 1960s. However, the truth is that green iguanas have been present in the US for much longer than that. As early as 1910, green iguanas had been imported into the US and kept as pets. It is possible that green iguanas have been released into the wild due to their popularity as pets, and it is likely that they were first introduced to Florida in this way. Regardless of how green iguanas got to Florida, they are now firmly established in the state and actively managed by wildlife authorities.

Are iguanas aggressive?

Green iguanas can be very aggressive when they feel threatened. If a green iguana feels cornered, it may strike out with its powerful tail or bite. Bites from green iguanas can draw blood and even cause severe lacerations in some cases. Therefore, green iguanas should be approached with caution and given plenty of space. In general, green iguanas are not dangerous to humans, but they should still be respected and given the space they need.

How painful is an iguana bite?

Iguanas have sharp teeth and strong jaws that can deliver a bite that is both painful and dangerous. The pain of an iguana bite can range from mild to severe, depending on how deep the bite penetrates the skin. In some cases, green iguanas may even cause lacerations or puncture wounds due to their sharp teeth. Additionally, green iguanas may carry salmonella bacteria which can cause illness if ingested through an open wound. Therefore, it is important to seek medical attention right away after being bitten by a green iguana.

What is the biggest iguana in Florida?

The green iguana is the largest iguana species found in Florida, reaching lengths of up to 6 feet. This makes green iguanas one of the biggest lizards found in the state and they can be a scary sight when encountered in the wild. In order to protect against green iguanas and their potential damage to local ecosystems, they are actively managed by wildlife authorities in Florida.

Is it beneficial to join an iguana hunting Florida Safari with an Expert?

Absolutely! Joining a Florida Safari with an expert provides safe and productive hunting experience. The experts are knowledgeable about the local environment, have in-depth knowledge of iguanas and can teach safe handling techniques. With their guidance, you will be able to hunt green iguanas safely while learning more about this fascinating species as well as its importance to the local ecosystem. It is also important to remember that green iguanas are an invasive species and it is beneficial to help reduce their populations when possible. An expert guide will ensure that your hunting experience is safe, educational and beneficial for both yourself and the environment!

What kind of gun is used to hunt iguanas?

The most common weapon used to hunt green iguanas is an airgun or pellet gun. Airguns are becoming increasingly popular for hunting small game and reptiles, due to their accuracy and low levels of noise. Pellet guns are similar to airguns but fire smaller pellets at higher velocities than airguns, making them even more accurate and effective. It is important to remember that airguns and pellet guns should only be used in accordance with local laws and regulations. Additionally, airguns are not recommended for use near populated areas due to the potential for injury or property damage. When hunting green iguanas, it is important to make sure you have the proper safety equipment and airgun or pellet gun. With the right knowledge and equipment, hunting green iguanas can be a safe and enjoyable experience!

Can you shoot iguanas in Florida with a pellet gun?

Yes, pellet guns can be used to hunt iguanas in Florida. However, it is important to remember that pellet guns should only be used in accordance with state and local laws and regulations. Additionally, pellet guns are not recommended for use near populated areas due to the potential for injury or property damage. It is also important to make sure you have the proper safety equipment and pellet gun before going hunting. When used safely, pellet guns can be an effective tool for hunting green iguanas to help reduce their population in Florida.

Can you shoot iguanas in Florida with an air gun?

Yes, air guns can be used to hunt iguanas in Florida. However, it is important to remember that air guns should only be used in accordance with state and local laws and regulations. Additionally, air guns are not recommended for use near populated areas due to the potential for injury or property damage. It is also important to make sure you have the proper safety equipment and air gun before going hunting. When used safely, air guns can be an effective tool for hunting green iguanas.

What is the Most Popular location to go iguana hunting Florida?

The most popular destination to go iguana hunting in Florida is near Davie. Davie is one of the best locations in Florida to hunt the Green Iguana. This area is home to large populations of iguanas and provides plenty of opportunities for safe, successful hunts. With its diverse habitats, including mangroves and wetland environments, south Florida is the perfect place to hunt green iguanas. The experts found in this region are knowledgeable about the environment and can provide advice and guidance on how to safely handle your prey once it has been captured. Whether you’re a novice or an experienced hunter, south Florida offers a unique opportunity to learn more about these fascinating creatures while helping protect ecosystems against their invasions.

How far is Iguana Hunting near Orlando?

Iguana hunting near Orlando is approximately 80 miles away. Davie, Florida is the most popular destination for iguana hunting in the area and is only an hour and twenty minutes from Orlando when driving. Davie offers a diverse landscape with mangrove swamps, wetlands, and other areas that provide plenty of opportunities to successfully hunt green iguanas. Davie is also home to trained experts who are knowledgeable about the environment and can provide advice and guidance on how to handle your prey once it has been captured. If you’re looking for a unique hunting experience, Davie is the perfect place to go!

How far is Iguana Hunting near Fort Myers, Florida

Davie, Florida is the most popular destination for iguana hunting in the area and is only an hour and forty-five minutes from Fort Myers when driving. Davie offers a diverse landscape with mangrove swamps, wetlands, and other areas that provide plenty of opportunities to successfully hunt green iguanas.

How far is Iguana Hunting near Tampa

Davie, Florida is the most popular destination for iguana hunting in the area and is only about one hour and fifty minutes from Tampa when driving. Davie offers a diverse landscape with mangrove swamps, wetlands, and other areas that provide plenty of opportunities to successfully hunt green iguanas.

How Many Iguanas can you get in one Hunt?

The number of iguanas you can get in one hunt will vary based on the size of your hunting party, as well as the skill level of each member. Generally speaking, its not uncommon to bring back an average of 10 iguanas harvested by a single group in one outing. However, this range can fluctuate depending on the weather, season, and other factors.

Can you eat the Iguana Meat?

After your hunt, its a great idea to toss your game into an iced cooler if you are planning to cook the iguana meat. Thats right! Iguana meat is delicious and can be used in a variety of dishes. The most popular way to cook iguana meat is by grilling or roasting the whole animal. You can also use iguana tail meat to make delicious tacos, burritos, stews, soups and more. However, it is important to note that wild-caught iguanas should never be eaten raw due to the risk of salmonella contamination. Additionally, when handling iguanas for consumption, always wear protective gloves and thoroughly wash your hands with soap before cooking the meat. Finally, remember to discard any leftovers promptly after consuming as they may still contain harmful bacteria. With these precautions taken into consideration, you can enjoy delicious iguana

What is iguana meat called?

Iguana meat is sometimes referred to as chicken of the trees. This nickname alludes to the fact that iguana meat provides a similar texture and flavor profile to chicken, but with an exotic twist! Additionally, it is an excellent source of protein and other nutrients like iron and vitamin B12, making it a great addition to any diet. So next time you’re looking for something new, why not give iguana meat a try? You won’t be disappointed!

What part of the iguana do you eat?

The tail of the iguana is the most commonly eaten part. The tail meat can be cooked in a variety of ways such as grilling, roasting, or boiling. Additionally, you can also use the tail for soup, tacos, burritos, stews and more.

What does iguana taste like?

Iguana meat has a light and mild chicken-like flavor with a slightly gamey taste. It is also firm and chewy, similar to chicken thighs or wings. The mildness of the flavor allows it to take on an array of spices, making for delicious dishes such as fajitas or tacos.

What is the best recipe with Iguana meat?

One of the most popular recipes for iguana is Iguana Fajitas. This delicious dish combines grilled iguana tail with bell peppers, onions, garlic, tomatoes and spices to make a flavorful and unique fajita filling. For an even more exotic twist, try adding some diced mango or pineapple to the mix! To make this dish, simply marinate the iguana in some lime juice, garlic powder, and chili powder for at least an hour before grilling. Once cooked, combine the tail with sautéed vegetables and serve over toasted tortillas. Enjoy!

Alternatively, try making a traditional Iguana Soup by combining diced iguana tail with potatoes, tomatoes, onions, bell peppers and garlic in a broth of your choice. Simmer the ingredients until they are cooked through and then garnish with fresh cilantro or diced avocado before serving. Enjoy! Regardless of which recipe you choose, iguana meat is sure to be a hit at your next dinner party!

Is there any iguana hunting Florida outfitters?

Yes! Rockon Recreation Rentals is a 5 star-rated iguana hunting outfitter based in Florida. Their expert guides will help you plan your hunt and provide you with the necessary equipment to ensure a successful outing. Additionally, Rockon Recreation Rentals is dedicated to responsible harvesting practices which protect local wildlife populations. So if you are looking for an adventurous experience that won’t break the bank, rockon recreation rentals should be your first choice! Whether you are planning on eating the iguana meat or simply going for the experience of hunting, rockon recreation rentals has got you covered.

Beware of outfitters with low or no ratings, as several have popped up as people lost their jobs in the pandemic, and have little to no experience. Feel confident booking with a company like Rockon Recreation Rentals who has hosted hundreds of successful hunts with 5 star reviews from Google that you can rely on.

How much does it cost to hunt iguanas in Florida?

Typically, a half-day hunt with Rockon Recreation Rentals will cost around $500 – $600 depending on the size of the group. A two-person party would be in the $500 range, while adding a third person to the party is just $100 more. This includes all necessary equipment, guidance from experienced guides, and access to exclusive hunting sites across Florida.

Have a larger group? No worries, we can accommodate two parties of up to three people each party for a full party of six to enjoy in on all the fun.

With rates like these, you can be sure that you’re getting the best experience at an affordable price! So if you’re looking for a unique outdoor adventure that won’t break the bank, iguana hunting in Florida with Rockon Recreation Rentals is definitely worth considering!

Where can I book iguana hunting near me?

If you’re looking for a top-notch iguana hunting experience near you, Rockon Recreation Rentals is the perfect choice! They offer half-day and full-day hunts. If you think Florida Iguana Hunting might be your next big adventure, you should book one today! Booking your hunt with Rockon Recreation Rentals is easy – all you need to do is visit their website and fill out the online form with your personal details. Once done, they will be in touch within 24 hours to confirm your booking and provide further information about the hunt.

Come join us on an unforgettable experience!

You’ll find the nests of the hawks before leaves start to grow on trees. Therefore, they’re called early nest builders.

Due to this habit, numerous large hawk nests can be found on spring trees. Thus, it’s easy for a person to identify a hawk’s nest located in Michigan.

What are the different hawks found in Michigan? The different hawks found in Michigan are Osprey, Rough-legged hawk, Northern Harrier, Sharp-shinned hawk, Cooper’s hawk, Red-shouldered hawk, Broad-winged hawk, Northern Goshawk, and Red-tailed hawk.

These hawk species are economically harmless. Some of their nests can be found on the ground and 75 feet from the ground when situated on a tree.

To identify the hawks that reside in Michigan, you have to know their appearance and behavior. This article has all the information for every hawk species that are mentioned.

Do Hawks Live in Michigan?

Hawks live in Michigan, a nesting site for these birds. The earliest record of this activity is in 1934.

How to Identify a Hawk in Michigan?

Binoculars can help you identify a hawk in Michigan, and you have to weigh these factors.

• Plumage – The underside and back plumage should be compared. The plumage of the most common hawks in Michigan, called red-tail and sharp-shinned, highly varies all over their bodies. On the other hand, the matching underside and back plumage is seen on rough-legged hawks and osprey.

• Beak shape and color – Every hawk has a unique beak. A species has a distinct one that is similar to adults and juveniles alike.

• Habitat – You can readily expect what species you can find when you know the habitat of some hawks. For instance, rough-legged and red-tailed hawks are likely to be found in farmlands, woodlands, and city areas. Since sharp-shinned hawks feed on fish, they are around waterways.

• Forms in-flight – You can’t just see the hawks perched on a tree. Even when they fly up above, you can distinguish them through their forms while flying.

9 Hawks in Michigan

Osprey

This is a large species with long wings that have carpal joints. Ospreys have unique fishing techniques, as supported by their body parts. They have long legs, curved claws, and spicules which are spiny footpads to easily grip slippery fish.

Because they dive when fishing, they have nasal valves and oily, dense plumage to prevent water from entering their nostrils.

• Appearance: It has a dark brown back and a bright white underside. There’s a morphological variation based on the regions that they occupy. Those that are in tropical and subtropical areas are smaller.

• Color: Dark brown, bright white

• Wingspan: 145 to 170 cm

• Lifespan: 25 to 26 years

• Size: 55 to 58 cm

• Weight: 1,200 to 2,000 grams

• Diet: Amphibians, birds, carrion, fish, mammals, mollusks, reptiles

• Place of Origin: All continents except Antarctica

• Characteristics: Solitary; sedentary; colonial; migratory; diurnal; motile

Rough-Legged Hawk

You won’t see rough-legged hawks walk as they tend to soot downs when gathering food and getting near a mate. They also fly low for their size, and they just flap their wings to reach a certain altitude.

• Appearance: Both males and females have dark and light morphs. However, the coloration varies between adults and young. There’s a black band on the edges of this bird’s underside.

• Color: Black, brown, grayish

• Wingspan: 122 to 143 cm

• Lifespan: 18 to 24 years

• Size: 46 to 59 cm

• Weight: 745 to 1,380 grams

• Diet: Birds, mammals, reptiles

• Place of Origin: Holarctic region

• Characteristics: Glides; territorial; solitary; motile; migratory; diurnal

Northern Harrier

Northern harries don’t only fly, but they also hop and walk. You’ll usually see them flying low and slow near the ground. On some occasions, they would soar high. The male is more agile and flies faster than his female counterpart.

• Appearance: A Northern harrier can easily be spotted due to some unique features. Specialized feathers surround their face, so there’s like a disc that directs the sound to their ears. When it’s on a flight, a white rump patch is visible.

• Color: Gray, white, brown

• Wingspan: 380 to 384 cm

• Lifespan: Up to 16 years

• Size: 41 to 50 cm

• Weight: 290 to 600 grams

• Diet: Amphibians, birds, mammals, reptiles

• Place of Origin: Holarctic region

• Characteristics: Diurnal; migratory; motile; glides

Sharp-Shinned Hawk

The Sharp-shinned hawk is the smallest species in North America, but it’s an opportunistic hunter. Since thus territorial, it would chase, call, and attack intruders.

• Appearance: The back of this hawk is bluish-gray or slate, and the underside is white. It has a crown in a dark hue. Moreover, it has a dark-colored beak in a hook shape.

• Color: Bluish-gray or slate, brown, white

• Wingspan: 52 to 65 cm

• Lifespan: Up to 19 years

• Size: 24 to 34 cm

• Weight: 87 to 218 grams

• Diet: Birds, insects, mammals

• Place of Origin: Nearctic and Neotropical regions

• Characteristics: Diurnal; motile; solitary; territorial; migratory

Cooper’s Hawk

This hawk perches on a tree and waits for its prey. It lives in forests and open lands. You will be astonished to see it as this is a swift flier. With a rapid wingbeat, it can search through heavily vegetated woodlands for its food.

• Appearance: A Cooper’s hawk is medium-sized with a long, lean body. The ones that reside in the west are smaller than those in the east. When in flight, its wings appear short and rounded, while the tail is long and barred. It has a hooked bill suitable for tearing meat.

• Color: Blackish, blue-gray, white

• Wingspan: 75 to 94 cm

• Lifespan: 12 to 20 years

• Size: 35 to 50 cm

• Weight: 280 to 556 grams

• Diet: Reptiles, amphibians, mammals, birds

• Place of Origin: Nearctic and Neotropical regions

• Characteristics: Solitary; territorial; migratory; motile; diurnal

Red-Shouldered Hawk

• Appearance: This is a large, heavy species with broad wings and a long tail. The upper part of its body has the colors brown and red, while the underside is creamy. It doesn’t form a flock, as most red-shouldered hawks don’t migrate. Only those that breed in the Northern part of the US and South of Canada migrate to the North of Mexico in winter.

• Color: Dark brown, brown, reddish, creamy

• Wingspan: 92 to 107 cm

• Lifespan: Up to 20 years

• Size: 43 to 61 cm

• Weight: 550 to 700 grams

• Diet: Aquatic crustaceans, amphibians, insects, birds, reptiles, mammals

• Place of Origin: Nearctic region

• Characteristics: Diurnal; sedentary; solitary; migratory; motile

Broad-Winged Hawk

Although the Broad-winged hawk is inclined to stay in dense forests, it prefers to be near open areas like road trails, meadows, and wetlands. It doesn’t like to be near humans.

When in the peak of migration, thousands of broad-winged hawks flock together. Hence, it results in a thermal current, so every bird minimizes its energy when flying.

• Appearance: This is a small and stocky species. As a dark-colored bird, you can easily spot the white, broad stripe and the two thin lines in the middle of its body. When flying, it has pointed wing tips. But these wingtips don’t reach the tail when this bird is perched.

• Color: Dark gray, black, white

• Wingspan: 81 to 100 cm

• Lifespan: 16 to 18 years

• Size: 34 to 44 cm

• Weight: 265 to 560 grams

• Diet: Insects, birds, amphibians, reptiles, mammals

• Place of Origin: Nearctic and Neotropical regions

• Characteristics: Solitary; diurnal; migratory; motile; territorial

Northern Goshawk

This is the largest accipiter species. It’s fascinating that it spends its entire lifetime in the same nesting area. It will only leave during winter and go to the southern area, but it returns when spring comes.

• Appearance: As an accipiter, it has a distinct white grouping of feathers, and this is like a band over the eye. You’ll also notice that the band seen on a Northern Goshawk is more striking than the other species. It has dark coloring, but the eyes are reddish-brown.

• Color: Blue-gray, black, light gray, white

• Wingspan: 98 to 115 cm

• Lifespan: 16 to 19 years

• Size: 55 to 61 cm

• Weight: 631 to 1,362 grams

• Diet: Birds, insects, mammals, reptiles

• Place of Origin: Holarctic region

• Characteristics: Sedentary; solitary; motile; diurnal; migratory

Red-Tailed Hawk

A pair of Red-tailed hawks stay in the same territory for life. This bird can adapt to different kinds of habitats at various altitudes.

It can be found in grasslands, agricultural fields, forests, and woodlands. When it comes to laying eggs, its preferred spots are large trees in an open area, wooden fence rows, and forest edges.

• Appearance: The back part of a Red-tailed hawk varies from auburn to deep brown, but the underbelly is always lighter than the other body parts. Its legs, feet, and skin on the base of the beak are all yellow.

• Color: Auburn to deep brown, brownish-red

• Wingspan: Around 122 cm

• Lifespan: 28 to 29 years

• Size: 45 to 65 cm

• Weight: 795 to 1,224 grams

• Diet: Birds, reptiles, mammals

• Place of Origin: Nearctic region

• Characteristics: Territorial; diurnal; migratory; motile

What Is the Biggest Hawk in Michigan?

Osprey is the biggest hawk in Michigan, with a wingspan of over 5 feet and a maximum weight of 2,000 grams which is twice or even four times the weight of other species.

How Big Are the Hawks in Michigan?

It depends on the species. While Osprey, Northern Goshawk, Rough-legged hawk, and red-tailed hawk are larger and weigh over a thousand grams, there are smaller species like Broad-winged hawk, Red-shouldered hawk, Northern Harrier, Cooper’s hawk, and Sharp-shinned hawk.

They just weigh a few hundred grams or around half a thousand grams. The smallest among them is a sharp-shinned hawk that can weigh 200 grams.

Can You Shoot a Hawk in Michigan?

Hawks are protected under Federal law enacted in 1918 called Migratory Bird Treaty Act. So, you can’t just shoot a hawk in Michigan any time you want.

Is It Illegal to Shoot Hawks in Michigan?

It’s illegal to shoot hawks in Michigan if you don’t have a permit. A depredation permit is usually given when the hawks are a threat to public health and safety.

What Is the Largest Bird in Michigan?

The majestic golden eagle is the largest bird in Michigan. It’s based on its 7.5 wingspans and more than 6,000 grams weight.

How Do You Tell the Difference Between a Falcon and a Hawk?

Here are the factors that you have to take note of to differentiate a falcon from a hawk:

• Size, speed, and taxonomy – Although hawks are bigger than falcons, they have shorter wings. Since falcons have longer wings, they fly faster than hawks.

• Beak vs. talon – Falcons dive and use their beaks with a notch to grab and stab prey. Hawks have talons or claws to catch their prey. They have slightly curved beaks.

What Is the Rarest Bird in Michigan?

The rarest bird in Michigan is Kirtland’s Warbler. It’s in yellow and blue-gray colors. The size of this elusive bird is the same as the sparrow.

Where to See Thousands of Hawks as They Migrate Through Michigan?

Different bird species follow the path of the Great Lakes in Michigan when they migrate. Hence, it creates a fascinating view. You’ll see thousands of hawks from the Detroit River to Keweenaw Peninsula.

Thousands of hawks create a wonderful view in the Straits of Mackinac as Lake Huron and Lake Michigan attract these avian migrants to their funnel effect.

Summary

Apart from identifying the species of hawks in Michigan, you’ll also be able to tell them apart from other birds like falcons.

If you have this ability, you won’t be confused. With this knowledge, bird watching will be more fun as you can name the birds. Even only hawk species can make identification challenging as there are variations.

Related: 8 Hawks in New Jersey | Check for Photos!

List of Sources

Ward, L. (1934). Hawks and Their Nests in Michigan. Searchable Ornithological Research Archive.

Kirschbaum, K., Watkins, P. S. (2000). Pandion haliaetus. Animal Diversity Web.

Limas, B. (2001). Circus cyaneus. Animal Diversity Web.

Good, G. (2008). Buteo lagopus. Animal Diversity Web.

Dewey, T., Perepelyuk, V. (2011). Accipiter cooperii. Animal Diversity Web.

1. Review the Legal Terms

Most importantly, you must have the legal right to go squirrel hunting. Before you head off to the woods, get a small game license (you need licenses for almost all types of game) for the place you are going to hunt.

The terms for attaining a license vary by state or province. So, review the regulations for hunting squirrels in your specific area.

You might only be able to go hunting during specific times of the year when it is squirrel season. This season takes place in most regions during the fall and winter months. The dates vary by each place. There are also rules on where you can hunt.

You may be allowed to hunt on a certain state or provincial park grounds. Some places require you ask for direct permission from the property owner before you start hunting.

Check the bag limits, too. There may be a limit to how many squirrels you can hunt in one day, as well as during an entire season.

2. Choose the Right Time

Look for squirrels during the early morning or late afternoon hours because squirrels are most active at these times. Morning is when squirrels go out to look for food.

It is easy and necessary for them to find food early in the day when they are at their hungriest. Avoid hunting squirrels in inclement weather, as like deer, they move around and can be harder to track.

Late afternoon to early evening is when squirrels bring food back to their habitats. This is when most squirrels are busy foraging, so you should be able to spot them moving around.

3. Look in the Right Places

Plan your hunts in areas where you are the most likely to find squirrels. Check areas where there are lots of trees. These include trees that produce nuts and other items squirrels commonly consume. An oak tree is one of the most popular places to see squirrels.

Any tree that produces the types of nuts or fruit that squirrels enjoy is the place to locate squirrels. Be aware of the type of trees in the area, so you can determine if they are places squirrels may be searching for food.

4. Find the Best Weapon for Squirrel Hunting

Shop around to get the right squirrel hunting weapon before leaving on a hunting trip. Do some target practice using a small game weapon that works best for squirrels.

In the end, choosing the right squirrel hunting weapon boils down to personal choice. Here are the best weapons for squirrel hunting in my opinion:

The Shotgun

Use a shotgun to cover a larger amount of space during your hunt. The spread of a shotgun shell can cover much of a squirrel’s body at once, thus ensuring a better chance of a kill without damaging too much meat.

Be sure to aim the shotgun carefully so it targets the precise area you want to shoot.

Look for a six-shot because it is large enough to target a squirrel without ruining the flesh. Also, choose a barrel 26 inches in length or greater so the shell will move precisely.

Remember, a shotgun will make a loud sound with each round. The noise will most likely scare the other squirrels away. Focus on being precise and cautious when shooting at squirrels or any other small game, for that matter.

When you take aim, remember that the spread on the shotgun shell will move outward a few centimeters after you shoot.

The .22 Caliber Rifle

The second option for a weapon to use is a .22 caliber rifle (my favorite). This rifle uses a smaller ammunition that targets the squirrel and other smaller game with precision.

The ammo will not damage much of the squirrel meat, either. A .22 caliber rifle produces a longer range than a shotgun. The rifle also lets you go after just one part of the squirrel’s body.

Aim to be accurate and hold your firearm steady. Fortunately, most .22 caliber rifles come with an automatic reloading feature. This feature lets you add multiple rounds into the rifle before you start shooting and release one of the rounds every time you fire the trigger.

Be sure to regularly clean the muzzle and barrel to get a more accurate shot.

This rifle works best when you attach a scope to it. A scope gives you a clearer view of your target. It is also important to take wind, elevation, and distance into account when using a scope.

Bow and Arrow

Another option for hunting squirrels is with a bow and arrow. But take note that most squirrels are small and less than a foot in length.

Because they are so small, it could be difficult to hunt squirrels with a large bow and arrow. In other words, leave your deer hunting bows at home.

You should sharpen any arrow you use so it can pierce the squirrel’s body with ease. Even so, any arrow you aim incorrectly could cut through too much of the squirrel’s body, leaving little meat or fur to use.

The Air Rifle

While this might not look daunting, an air gun can be deadly to squirrels, and it is the cheaper option of the bunch. Air rifles are best suited for small game like fowl, rabbits and squirrels.

The only major downside is that it requires a lot of practice for a humane kill, as the area that you must hit is very small for an instant kill.

If you want the animal to die instantly and avoid needless pain or tons of frustration, aim for a head shot, which is also difficult to pull off on such small targets. Plus, larger squirrels can absorb multiple hits and evade if you miss the head.

Here’s some smooth action with an air rifle:

The rut is over. The majority of deer season is behind us. The late season is here, and soon, it’ll be a distant memory, too. But for now, we still have tags to fill. With dropping testosterone, and months of heavy hunting pressure, it’s a different game.

So, it begs the question, should you tap that late-season deer on the shoulder? Or completely stay off its radar? Well, it depends. But most of the time, it’s probably best to hit the mute button.

Late-Season Dynamics

Mike Dukart, CEO and owner of Illusion Systems, and J.J. Dukart, president of The Deer Society, are both seasoned whitetail hunters and experts in whitetail vocalization.

Naturally, it was a breath of fresh air when these guys — who make a living selling grunt tubes (and other deer gear) — advised caution on calling to pressured and late-season bucks. That kind of genuineness and honesty can be rare in business, and it immediately captured my attention.

Of course, most states’ gun seasons fall in November and December. That translates to a lot of applied hunting pressure throughout the last two months of the year. It takes a toll on deer, and these animals respond to that.

“In Minnesota, gun season opens up when they start becoming the most boisterous and active (pre-rut and rut),” Mike says. “All of this human pressure (and guns) that’s going on in their normal habitat completely changes their behavior. They get skittish. We don’t get to interact with them a whole lot because they’re overcalled and over-pressured. They go nocturnal. Seeing a deer and trying to naturally call or communicate with it is 100% harder once they start getting pressured.”

However, to minimize impact on their own grounds, Mike prefers to leave his hunting properties alone during times of heavy pressure. This gives deer a safe zone, because he’s certain that whitetails almost always filter into areas that offer less pressure. They also respond better to calling later in the year.

Alternate Forms of Communication

As deer transition into the post-rut and beyond, they become much less vocal and less outgoing. While deer were very extroverted throughout the rut, they’re becoming the introverted beings they always are after the breeding season ends, and after being hunted hard.

That doesn’t mean they aren’t communicating though. Mike and J.J. both agree that deer still convey messages to one another.

“I think scent and visual cues are some of the things that pick up during (and after) gun seasons,” J.J. says. “Once all of that pressure kicks in, from a communication standpoint, the more natural you can be the better. Deer have been on edge for weeks. Human scent is all over the woods. The rut is winding down. Their minds are a little clearer than they were a few weeks ago.”

In other words, it’s probably best to lay off the grunt-snort-wheezes, and other battle cry and war whoop vocalizations, too. Both Mike and J.J. notice other forms of communication really pick up after deer have been pressured.

“One of the things that I’ve been picking up on with trail cameras, and also just throughout the years, is the amount of communication via scent, scrapes and rubs,” Mike says. “This definitely increases and becomes the dominant way for them to communicate. Bucks pee on everything. They’re rubbing glands on everything they can find. They’re not only letting the does know they’re there but also letting the other bucks.”

Of course, the rut kickstarts this behavior. Testosterone levels are rising. Does are pushing away fawns. Every deer in the woods is freaking out and wondering what’s going on in the world, as the Dukarts put it.

That said, by the late season, dropping testosterone, hunting pressure and lack of will to confront rival bucks causes these deer to get quieter. But they definitely still communicate via body language and scent.

“By smelling each other, they know exactly who it is,” Mike says. “So, if that buck comes in there and makes a rub or hits that scrape, other bucks know who it is, and if he isn’t from that area.”

These guys create situations to take advantage of this behavior. They make mock scrapes in key areas that are advantageous for hunting, or near cameras where they can gather intel.

Deer use posturing and other varieties of body language to transfer messages, too. Short of using a decoy — which isn’t a common late-season tactic — this isn’t actionable information for hunters though.

Making the Right Late-Season Call

The truth is that deer hunting isn’t black and white. It’s highly situational. You might see a deer during the late season that’s acting extremely aggressive. That’s generally the exception and not the rule, however. More times than not, it’s better to be passive in the vocalization department.

“I would call less frequently,” Mike says. “I wouldn’t challenge deer or put a lot of emotion into anything. Even if I did an estrus bleat, it wouldn’t be a crazy or wild one. If anything, I’d try to mimic that hunter mentality of the does coming back together with the fawns. There’s a little bit more communication going on there. Create an illusion of deer that a buck might want to come check out.”

Generally, that comes in the form of soft doe and fawn bleats, and subtle grunts. Don’t be very loud, though. Keep it quiet, and keep the frequency to a minimum. That’s normal behavior for this time of year.

Like Mike, J.J. highly encourages keeping things natural, such as light sparring or soft contact grunts. Given that the occasional adult doe or doe fawn might enter estrus late in the season, he even gives the nod to a few doe estrus bleats. He certainly stresses keeping the volume down, though.

“Start low enough that maybe they don’t hear you, and then work your way up,” J.J. says. “A lot of people call too loud and put deer on the defensive. It spooks and educates them.”

Calling aside, there are certain tactics that work better during the late season. Mike acknowledges this, and that’s pretty cool.

“At this time of year, as far as calling goes, I would try more to get deer patterned,” Mike says. “They’re settling into a place where they’re around food, and [where] they feel more comfortable. They’re going to [create] a pattern during the late season. I would focus more on that, and be aggressive on getting into position to get a shot at that deer than I would about trying to call a deer into a stand that’s been there all year long.”

Enough said.

“You have an AR-15. You’re coming.”

So, despite my naïve protests about being a shooter not a hunter, I was dragged into the world of tactical hunting. A pile of dead hogs later, I was hooked. I no longer own any of the gear I used that day. I’ve gone through many iterations and changes in my kit. Thanks in part to my role here at SHWAT.com I’ve had opportunities to try all kinds of configurations for hog hunting guns. So when I was recently asked about how to set up an AR-15 for Hog Hunting, I readily agreed to answer here. While I’ll be the first to say that there’s no one size that fits all, when you’ve finished reading I think you’ll have a better idea of how to set up your own AR-15 for some tactical hog hunting. Then it’s time to chase some wild boar!

Why focus specifically on setting up the AR-15 for hog hunting? It’s this generation’s gun, and for good reason. The limitless configurations make it one of the most versatile guns on earth. The hardest part is figuring out what you want, never mind need, as you customize your AR-15. Since you’re reading this, you’re more likely to own an AR-15 than any other single gun. Here are some questions and answers for you to consider when getting set up to hunt wild hogs with yours.

Caliber? Perhaps your first consideration is caliber. I don’t know how many different calibers an AR-15 can be built in. Hogs are hunted with a lot of them including .223/5.56, 300 Blackout, .458 SOCOM, 6.5 Grendel, 6.8 SPC II, and countless others. I’ve killed hogs with most of those and others as well. This will surprise some, but not everyone: I’ve killed more wild pigs with .223 than any other caliber. Modern loads render some of the old conventional wisdom obsolete. Remington Hog Hammer made with Barnes 62 grain TSX bullets has demonstrated excellent performance for SHWAT™ writer Brian McCombie, and I’ve had great experience with DRT Ammo’s .223 on hogs weighing 200+ pounds.

A lot of buzz over 300 Blackout during the past couple of years has lead many to explore that round. I’ve been cautious about getting too wrapped up in it, but I plan to give it a workout this year. Having hunted with sub sonic rounds through a short barreled AR pistol with Liberty Suppressors Mystic X silencer, I wasn’t impressed. Maybe it was the ammo; maybe the distance was too great. It was definitely quiet. We’ll try it again with some unique ammo, but super sonic 300 Blackout looks more promising. But like .458 SOCOM and 6.8 SPC II, your range is a bit more limited. If you’re hunting under 200 yards, any of these rounds should be great. If you’re planning longer range hog hunting, the 6.5 Grendel might just be your pick.

Day or Night? Night hunting hogs is a real blast. Adding a white light to your gun is easy and doesn’t have to cost a fortune. If the shooting gets fast as the daylight fades to dark, your white light becomes a real asset. I’ve watched Bill Wilson of Wilson Combat point a white light at hogs who were undeterred by its presence. Bill has spent countless hours with the hogs figuring out which white lights scare them, and the specifics of color temperature and technique that leave hogs comfortable and vulnerable.

Most hunters effectively bagging hogs in the dark have instead employed a broad variety of weapon mounted green and red lights, particularly when hunting predictable places like feeders. Alternatively, you can also equip a feeder with remote control lights like the Inhawgnito, but that’s another story. Flashlights in white, green and red are all easy add-ons to your AR build that won’t trash your bottom line. An important side note: you’ll want your AR to use a hand guard that allows for mounting accessories. Three or four years ago that generally meant a quad picatinny rail. Today you have countless options.

But there are better, albeit far more expensive, doors to crash. Jump into the high tech world of night vision and thermal optics and you’re into a whole new level of the game. Instead of spending a hundred dollars for a light, you’ll spend ten to twenty times that to access what many consider to be the pinnacle of tactical hunting. Case in point: Recently I’ve been highly impressed by the line of thermal optics from IR Defense. I’ve watched IRD grow for a year, and recently hunted with their IR Hunter Mk II. Using this thermal optic, I was able to identify hogs at 400 yards and shoot them on the run at 125 yards. Thermal can fool you though. Rocks at a distance can look remarkably like a group of pigs far off. Stay tuned to SHWAT.com for more on that.

An alternative to thermal is traditional night vision (NV). We’re talking the usual green images. It’s great military technology available to us and allows for the use of infrared lasers and illuminators of countless price points and configurations. The best gear for this is almost as pricey as thermal, but has the added benefit of being able to drive and scan for hogs without any additional lighting. For as little as $3100 a number of manufacturers like TNVC are producing NV monoculars that can be mounted to your AR-15 or to a helmet. We’ll cover your NV options more thoroughly later on here at SHWAT.com.

Hunting during the day is pretty straightforward. Have an optic that works for your scenario and get to work. Obviously, your scenario makes a difference along with your preference in optics. Years ago I invested in a Trijicon ACOG ECOS system that gave me a 4x magnified optic with a red dot 1x unmagnified optic combination. It remains a favorite set up. Red dot sights like the EoTech and Aimpoint optics are super fast to use with both eyes open and I’ve enjoyed great success with them as well. If you plan on bagging multiple hogs from a group, you’ll be hard pressed to beat this kind of a set up.

Alternatively, more magnification both increases the ranges you can make confident shots at and adds precision to virtually any shot beyond 50 yards. There are probably as many magnified optics choices as there are ammo choices. Lots of optics are good enough to hunt hogs mid day at 150 yards. Your run of the mill 3-9x scope might be just fine. However, cheap scopes simply aren’t as sharp and lose contrast quickly at higher magnification. Lack of high quality optical coatings can leave you unable to see clearly with your scope angled towards a late afternoon or early morning sun, washing out when pointed in the direction of the sun. Brands like Trijicon, Nightforce, US Optics and Bushnell Elite Tactical are all winners at various price and feature points.

How will you hunt? If you hunt from a blind you might not need a sling on your AR-15. I prefer spot and stalk hunts which leave me carrying my rifle so I value a sling. Single point slings are often preferred by tactical shooters, but for walking any significant distance, I prefer the stability of a good two point sling over an AR bouncing around on a single point sling. Over time I’ve collected a number of slings including convertible single/dual point models, but my go-to sling, a Viking Tactics two point padded model, remains my favorite.

Triggers? If precision is important to your hunting, you need an upgraded trigger. Truth is, once you’ve used a good drop in trigger replacement you’ll probably loath whatever trigger came in your rifle. I’ve pulled Timney, Wilson Combat, CMC flat triggers and plenty of others. It seems like there’s a new drop in trigger maker for the AR-15 popping up every other month. Most are pretty good; some have nice proven track records if that’s important to you.

While there’s no limit on interchangeable AR-15 configurations, these considerations combined with your personal preferences of brand, grips, stocks, etc. will get you all set to hog hunt with your AR-15. Fact is, getting set up to hunt hogs with the puzzle pieces covered here will also get you set up to effectively hunt various varmints, deer and other exciting prospects for the tactical hunter. Want to show off your favorite setup? Tag @SHWATteam on Instagram.

LOGAN, W.Va. — Although the West Virginia elk herd is growing and healthy, the top man overseeing the reintroduction project cautioned it’s way too early to be talking about any kind of elk hunting opportunities in the Mountain State.

“It could actually set us back if we jumped on that too early,” said Randy Kelley, Elk Project Leader for the West Virginia Division of Natural Resources in a recent conversation on West Virginia Outdoors.

Although nothing has been officially discussed, some sportsmen have openly shared the idea on social media of a limited hunt for some of the bulls in southern West Virginia. Kelley warned even a limited hunt for males only at this point in the reintroduction process could be detrimental.

“It really messes with your herd dynamics because if somebody gets a bull tag, they’re going to want to take the big, mature bulls. But probably less than 30 percent of our herd is in that prime 5 to 9 year old breeding age. By removing those bulls of breeding age, you change the herd dynamics,” he explained.

Due to concerns about predation, it’s desirable the majority of elk calves each spring or summer be born around the same time. When the landscape is flooded by young elk all at once, it lessens the chances of predators taking a higher percentage of those young and vulnerable calves. However, if the most mature and dominant bulls are removed and only the younger, more immature bulls are available during the rut it could delay breeding or cause breeding to be a complete failure without enough big bulls on the ground to get the job done.

Due to so many variables, Kelley was reluctant to put a timeline or a herd population estimate on when a hunt of any kind would be acceptable. Neighboring Virginia just opened up a hunting season this year. Kelley indicated they would be closely watching the results of Virginia’s hunt to help guide decisions on elk management in West Virginia.

“There’s no use to reinvent the wheel. We learn from what others are doing and have done,” he said.

Kelley also revealed work has begun on a couple of university studies involving West Virginia’s elk herd. One of the studies is a cooperative genetics study with West Virginia University. The genetic testing will help reveal which bulls are fathering which calves, predominant breeding, and if any of the genetic traits from the two sources of elk are superior or make a difference in strength and survival.

“We have elk from the Land Between the Lakes and from Arizona. We have DNA from every one we released and that will give us a way to look at the parentage and see who is breeding whom and what’s actually going on on the ground out there with regard to breeding,” he said.

The study data could give a more clear look into any genetic predispositions on survival rates, resistance to parasites or disease, breeding dominance, and a host of other information which will help as the herd grows.

A second study on eastern elk is underway at the University of Tennessee which will enable Kelley and his team to know if an elk is suffering from brain worm before it succumbs to the parasite. Until now, they could only know if brain worm was present after the elk died.

“U.T. has developed a blood test to detect brain worm and we can send them a blood sample and find out if any of our elk have it even if they are showing no symptoms,” he said.

Brain worm has been the single biggest killer of West Virginia elk since the reintroduction began. West Virginia annually loses about four percent to brain worm, but the national average is around six percent. Brain worm is a parasite present in whitetail deer. While it has no effect on deer, it’s become a deadly problem for the elk in the eastern U.S.

As for growing the herd with the translocation of more animals from other states, Kelley wasn’t optimistic.

“Because of CWD, the whole biological community is discouraging any movement of cervids at all at this point,” he explained.

The Best Glock Triggers for 2024

Yes, Glocks are among the best and most popular handguns on the market.

Still, as Glock is so prone to upgrades, there is always room for improvement. For example, the factory Glock triggers are not so famous. They have large pull weights.

If you’re one of the competitive shooters, then you probably need a trigger with less pull weight than the factory trigger provides.

Now, before we make a list of the best Glock triggers you can have, let’s explore all factors to consider before making a purchase.

Glock Trigger Types

There are different types of Glock designs that you can choose from for your next upgrade. For example, the most popular design among aftermarket triggers is the drop-in design.

What’s drop-in design?

It refers to an aftermarket trigger assembly that’s designed to be easily installed into a Glock pistol without having the need for advanced gunsmithing or modification. It got its name as it suggest the trigger can just be dropped into the handgun.

A drop-in trigger typically comes as a complete trigger assembly, including the trigger shoe, trigger bar, connector, and other components necessary for proper functioning.

The main advantage of the drop-in trigger is that it makes the upgrade process simple. It’s made to allow you to upgrade your trigger without having too much knowledge about firearms or specialized gunsmithing skills.

However, before shooting your handgun after installing the drop-in trigger, test a few times if everything works as it should before using live ammo.

Read more:

• (Top 5) Best Aftermarket Glock Slides
• The Top 10 Glock Barrels for Enhanced Accuracy
• Review: Glock M.A.R.S. – Magazine Advanced Release System

How to Choose the Right Trigger

Among various different types of factory and aftermarket Glock triggers, choosing the right trigger may not be as easy as it sounds.

However we turn it, everything starts with your needs and preferences.

Would you like to stick with stock triggers or aftermarket triggers? Aftermarket triggers can offer different pull weights, improve reset, or offer other customization options (including different styles).

Next, where are you going to use the Glock pistol? Different environments like competitive shooting, self-defense, and recreational shooting have different requirements and different triggers may suit each of them separately.

And finally, one of the widely known factors is the trigger pull weight. The stock Glock trigger usually has a pull weight of around 5.5 pounds (or 2.5 kilograms). However, if you prefer lighter pull weight, then consider choosing aftermarket triggers with less pull weight.

How Glock Trigger Works

The Glock trigger works on a striker-fired system called the Safe Action Trigger system.

Let’s break it down in a few steps to clarify how does Glock trigger work:

1. Trigger safety: The Glock trigger has a trigger safety feature. It’s a small lever placed in the middle of the trigger. You have to press it fully to move the trigger backward and fire the gun. This safety prevents accidental firing if the gun is dropped or if pressure is applied to the sides of the trigger.
2. Trigger pull: When you press the trigger, it moves backward. As it moves, it cocks the firing pin, which makes the bullet fire. The trigger has a short distance to travel, making it easier and faster to pull.
3. Firing pin safety: When the trigger is fully pressed, it releases a firing pin safety. This lever was blocking the firing pin from moving forward and firing a bullet. Now that it’s out of the way, the firing pin can move forward and hit the bullet’s primer, causing a bullet to fire.
4. Firing the gun: Once the firing pin is released, it strikes the bullet’s primer, ignited the gunpowder, and fires the bullet.
5. Reset: After firing the shot, you release the trigger, as you let go, the trigger moves forward, and the firing pin partially resets itself. This prepares the gun for the next shot by making it ready to fire again. The trigger reset distance is short, allowing for quick follow-up shots if needed.

The Best Glock Aftermarket Triggers

1. Agency Arms Syndicate Trigger
2. Zev Technologies PRO Trigger Bar Kit
3. Overwatch Precision TAC Trigger
4. CMC Trigger Drop-in Trigger
5. Apex Tactical Specialties Action Enhancement Trigger Kit
6. Killer Innovations Trigger Shoe
7. Tyrant Designs I.T.T.S. Trigger

1. Agency Arms Syndicate Trigger

If you’re looking for something on a budget but still reliable, then Syndicate Trigger by Agency Arms is a great choice for you.

The trigger is made of polymer making it strong, durable, and at the same time lightweight.

This is a drop-in model of a trigger meaning you can easily install it at home without needing different and specialized tools.

However, if you have older generations of Glock handguns, you probably won’t be able to use this trigger as it’s compatible with Gen 5 Glocks only including G19X and G45.

Price: $60Get yours here!

2. Zev Technologies PRO Trigger Bar Kit

This drop-in trigger comes from the Zev Technologies brand, known for winning multiple world championships. It got some pretty good features that make it stand out.

The Pro trigger bar kit supports multiple generations of Glock including Gen 1, Gen 2, Gen 3, and Gen 4. It’s compatible with G26, G19, G17, G34, G17L, G27, G23, G22, G35, G31, G32, G33 Glocks too.

The trigger bar kit is made of hard-anodized aluminum construction. Because of this, the trigger kit is strong, durable, and wear-resistant.

Zev Technologies PRO Trigger bar kit delivers a very crisp and clean trigger pull, making it very comfortable, especially for situations where you’ll need to acquire targets very quickly and deliver follow-up shots.

It’s also easy to install without having any special tools, however, it comes at a little higher price point so if you’re ready to spend a little bit more money, this one is a great option for you.

Price: $132.30Get yours here!

3. Overwatch Precision TAC Trigger

If we have to describe the TAC trigger made by Overwatch Precision as shortly as possible, then we would just say it’s reliable and aesthetic.

It’s made of 7075-T6 aluminum alloy, well-known for its strength and durability which is crucial if you’re going to use your handgun frequently. In this scenario, when you need something resistant to wear, the TAC trigger will get you covered.

The overall feel of the TAC triggers is this: it has a very similar feeling to standard OEM triggers, but it’s crisper and also has better responsitivity compared to them. When pressed, it feels smooth on fingers with a very short reset.

Price: $122.85Get yours here!

4. CMC Trigger Drop-in Trigger

Easy-to-install drop-in trigger made by CMC. Compared to the original Glock trigger, there are definitely improvements.

Let’s start with reset which is great while the trigger itself is light and crisp – something every experienced shooter is looking for when upgrading their Glock.

The trigger pull is about 2.5-3 lbs and is good for situations where you’re required to put several rounds into a target fast. With this trigger, you can easily deliver follow-up shots without affecting the accuracy of your Glock too much.

As for compatibility, you can use this trigger from Gen 1 Glocks up to Gen 4 Glocks. Gen 5 Glocks are not supported this time. Also, CMC offers two different models: one for 9mm Glocks and one for .40cal caliber Glocks. Double-check compatibility before making a purchase.

Price: $155.48Get yours here!

5. Apex Tactical Specialties Action Enhancement Trigger Kit

Comfort and performance – are two words that describe this model the best. It comes from Apex that’s already known for producing quality parts for Glocks.

The drop-in design of this trigger allows you to easily switch the factory trigger with this one.

The Apex Tactical Action Enhancement trigger’s main features are smooth trigger pull, reduced travel and reset distances, and a crisp trigger break compared to the standard Glock trigger.

However, this pistol works only with G43, G43X, and G48 Glock handguns.

Price: $99.75Get yours here!

6. Killer Innovations Trigger Shoe

Aesthetically pleasing yet great performance trigger shoe for Gen 5 Glocks (other not supported). This trigger shoe can go on Glock 17 and Glock 19.

Despite being available in multiple colors, which can also help you make a unique Glock build, the trigger has a crisp break with a short reset. If you’re a competitive shooter who has to put a few bullets in a row in a target, the Killer Innovations trigger shoe provides a very smooth pull and helps you have better follow-up shots.

The trigger shoe is made of aircraft-grade aluminum with an anodized finish. However, this trigger shoe is a little pricey, so be ready to spend more money if you want to own this one.

Price: $115.89Get yours here!

7. Tyrant Designs I.T.T.S. Trigger

If you’re looking for something that’s cheaper but still not lacking quality, and by the way you own Gen 3 or Gen 4 Glock, then you should check the I.T.T.S. trigger.

The trigger comes with stainless steel set screws, safety blades, and power springs ensuring the trigger’s durability.

However, this time you’ll need tools and disassembled Glock in order to change the trigger as ITTS is not a drop-in type of trigger. But if you already have gunsmithing experience, this won’t be a problem for you.

The trigger offers a 30% power spring for fast and fierce trigger reset which is a great feature when it comes to competitive shooting.

Price: $67.45Get yours here!

Final Words

When considering a Glock trigger upgrade, it’s important to assess your intended use and personal preferences.

While the stock trigger may suffice for some, many find aftermarket triggers greatly enhance their shooting experience. Transitioning to a new trigger may require an adjustment period, and practicing with a few hundred rounds is recommended.

Some may prefer to have their stock trigger polished by a gunsmith, while others opt for a complete replacement.

Factors such as trigger shape, intended use (concealed carry or competition), and individual preference play a role.

Ultimately, upgrading to one of the best Glock triggers can improve shooting enjoyment and accuracy, transforming your Glock into a more refined and personalized firearm.

Read more:

• Choosing the Best Glock Iron Sights
• How to Build a Glock Handgun at Home

This review focuses on tinder that’s appropriate to keep in a portable kit, such as your go-bag, EDC, or vehicle. They work just fine for home supplies too, but there are a few larger products — such as standard “fireplace starter logs” — that you can add when you have more storage space.

The easiest thing to do is buy an off-the-shelf tinder, practice with it, then throw it in your bags and you’re done.

But this is a category where it’s relatively easy to make your own tinder and save some money. If you’re so inclined, those DIY options are covered below, too.

Igniter reviews:

• Lighters
• Matches
• Ferro rods / fire steels

Tinder summary:

• Everyone should have tinder in their primary go-bag — even if you’re comfortable sourcing natural tinder in the field (you might not be able to when you need it!) There’s not much point in carrying an ignition source if you can’t actually turn it into a fire.
• Most types of tinder are either a fiber (eg. cotton) or petroleum-based fuel.
• You can make tinder at home, and they usually work fine, but the safest and easiest way to prep is to buy an off-the-shelf product. DIY instructions are down the page.
• Mix multiple types of tinder so you can cover a wider range of conditions. A common combo is mostly the smaller fiber-based tinder with a few larger fuel cubes to handle harsh conditions.
• Good tinder lasts for at least 1-2 minutes and still works when damp.
• Remember to practice!

The best overall choice (and what many of us carry in our go-bags) are TinderQuik Firestarting Tabs. This popular product comes as no surprise to experienced bushcrafters and preppers. TinderQuik tabs are waterproof cotton that’s been condensed into a small package. To use, you simply break a tab apart with your fingers, making it fluffy and ready to catch a spark. Works well with all major ignitors.

At roughly $13 for a 50 pack, that’s $0.25 per fire. They’re small and light enough that you could carry all 50, although we generally recommend carrying at least 10-20 in the bug out bag checklist. 20 tabs only weigh around 0.5 ounces. TinderQuik tabs will last a minimum of 5 years, though if stored at room temperature can last a lot longer.

Fuel cubes, like the SOL All-Weather Fire Cube, can be a worthy upgrade when you need a very hot starter flame or expect to be dealing with conditions that make fires difficult (eg. you’re in a permanently-damp part of the world.) Roughly $0.60 per fire, or 2-3 times the cost per fire of the basic fibrous/cotton options. Burns for up to 12 minutes at a whopping 1,300 degrees Fahrenheit — perfect for drying out the wet kindling you’re trying to ignite or for directly heating a small stove or canteen to boil water. The cubes are individually wrapped, and weigh .2 ounces which makes it easy to throw one or three in your kit as a backup for your main tabs. We chose the SOL cubes over similar competitor UST Wetfire because the SOL burns twice as long, and unlike Coughlin’s Solid Fuel, tabs are individually wrapped.

If you like the idea of a larger product that you can cut down to size for each need, check out the Fat Rope Stick, a 6” long by 1.5” diameter tube of cotton rope that has been impregnated with a proprietary wax. The wax makes it waterproof and works as an accelerant. They’re pricey at around $17 for two ropes. If you use a common 0.5 inch per fire, that’s roughly $0.70 per fire. Lasts indefinitely when unopened and stored properly, with a claimed life of five years after the package is opened.

Paracord is already a universal staple used by almost every survival expert we know. Some fancier paracord comes with waxed-jute tinder wrapped inside the multi-stranded cordage — so you use it as plain cordage until you need to make an emergency fire, at which point you split open the cord and pluck out the tinder.

Although we don’t recommend relying on this as your primary tinder, UST’s ParaTinder 550 Utility Cord is one of the products we tested in the paracord review that has such a feature and stood up to our field abuse. So if you want to build in some extra redundancy by combining products / backups, the more expensive cordage is worth a look.

What is tinder and why you need it for fire starting

The easiest way to convince someone of the value of tinder is to ask them to make a fire by holding a match to a log. The match will die before the log ignites 99% of the time.

That’s why people use tinder and kindling as smaller intermediate steps, working their way from a single spark to a roaring flame. Which means the role of tinder is to catch the spark created by your ignitor, ignite quickly, and hold that flame until the kindling catches fire. Think of tinder like the toddler phase of a fire.

Remember the fire triangle:

That’s why tinder (when it’s ready to use) often looks more like a frayed bird’s nest or those hairballs that hide under your bed than a solid chunk of something — each of those little fibers has great exposure to oxygen and can easily “catch” a spark. Most tinder that isn’t frayed or fibrous overcomes that limitation with the help of combustible chemicals (usually petroleum based).

Types of tinder

Humans have used all sorts of stuff for tinder since the discovery of fire. Bark, grass, plants, sap, wood shaving, fungi, dried poop, old bread, and tax returns all work fine — even Doritos and crayons work!

Modern tech has made it easier to carry the most efficient tinder in the smallest, lightest, and/or cheapest package. Most tinder falls into these categories:

• Cordage and fiber
• Fuel blocks
• Metals
• Natural biofuels (eg. fatwood)

Cordage and fibers

Fibrous material like cotton balls, cotton rope, char cloth, paracord, hemp rope, and jute twine can all be used as tinder. They’re often coated with a water-resistant and combustion-accelerant material, such as wax or petroleum distillates, which makes them more effective in harsh conditions.

Products in this category typically burn for 1-2 minutes, are lightweight, easy to carry, easy to make, commercially available, and claim a shelf life of five years (although it’s likely longer).

It’s common to find these products compressed down for packaging and carrying. The TinderQuik tabs, for example, need to be broken up with your fingertips to turn the condensed cotton into that frayed bird’s nest with more volume and oxygen around the fibers.

Some of the top products in this category:

• Baddest Bee Fire Fuse
• Black Beard Fire
• Fat Rope Stick
• Live Fire Original
• Pyro Putty
• TinderQuick
• UST ParaTinder 550 Utility Cord
• Titan SurvivorCord
• Live Fire Gear 550 FireCord

Solid fuel cubes

Individually-wrapped cubes composed of trioxane, hexamine, paraffin wax, and other petroleum distillates.

Some are small and intended to be used as short-term tinder, while others like the Esbit Fuel Tabs can be used as an all-in-one that both catches a spark easily and then burns long enough to be used as a main fuel source — for example, to sit underneath a small camp stove to boil water.

Depending on the size, average tinder cubes will burn for up to five minutes — that extra burn time might make a crucial difference when dealing with wet kindling. They can be extinguished and reused. Solid fuel cubes have a shelf life of 5 years, but during our research, we came across numerous stories of people lighting 20-year-old hexamine bars with no problems.

Top examples:

• Coughlin’s Solid Fuel Tabs
• Esbit Fuel Tabs
• SOL All Weather Fire Cubes
• UST Wetfire

Metals

Magnesium, which creates a short and intense flame, is best used when it is shaved on to natural tinder such as grass, leaves, down feathers, pine needles, and bark. Although it may look like a big chunky block of metal, magnesium tinder is deceptively lightweight. Magnesium can be purchased in blocks which can be shaved over natural tinder, or bags of magnesium shavings.

Magnesium is a component in ferrocerium (the alloy used in ferro rods) and often found in hybrid products that combine the ferro rod (ignitor) and magnesium (tinder). The Fire-Fast Trekker is an example that we use and like.

Steel wool (superfine #0000) can also be used as tinder, and like magnesium, it doesn’t burn very long and is best used to complement paper or natural tinder, especially in damp environments.

How can steel burn? Because steel wool is composed of thin carbon steel strands with a lot of surface exposure to oxygen, it only takes a little energy in the form of heat to start an uncontrolled combustion reaction. Energy from a match, ferro spark, or electric current is enough to ignite the steel wool.

Many survivalists will keep a handful of superfine #0000 steel wool and a 9-volt battery in their fire supplies. Merely pressing the battery terminals to the steel wool will ignite the bundle. If you choose to keep steel wool, secure the battery so the terminals are not exposed and be mindful of electricity sources.

Other metallic tinders:

• Trolley Shop Magnesium Rod 5-Pack
• Hilitand Magnesium Rod
• Jets emergency fire starter magnesium bags
• Red Devil 0320 steel wool (super fine)
• Homax Steel Wool (super fine)
• Pandora Steel Wool (super fine)

Natural tinder

Any dry organic material technically qualifies as “natural” tinder, but in practice people usually focus on specific types like fatwood and bagasse.

Fatwood, also known as pine knot or rich pine, comes from the stump or heartwood of pine trees. Those trees produce sap, which courses its way through the interior structure of the tree. When the tree ages or dies, evaporation turns that sticky sap into a harder — and very flammable — resin.

You can find fatwood in nature, make it yourself (kind of), or buy it off the shelf. DIY details below, but the punchline is that “forced” fatwood is wood with more of a coating, rather than the natural fatwood that was internally impregnated with the resin.

Bagasse is a dry, fibrous pulp biofuel that’s left over after sorghum and sugarcane have been processed for their main juices. Bagasse is combined with a wax and formed into individual blocks. Bagasse is a common product in the United States and can be found at any big box store like Walmart. It is also common in outdoor or sporting good stores.

Top products:

• Coughlin’s Fire Sticks
• Light My Fire Mayadust
• Light My Fire Tinder-on-a-Rope
• PBL Fatwood
• Plow & Hearth Fatwood Fire Starter
• UCO Sweetfire Fire Starter Tinder

DIY: How to make homemade tinder

The possibilities are endless — especially when you’re improvising in the field in the moment you need a fire — but there are a few common recommendations for DIY tinder that you can make and store ahead of time for portable kits.

Common stuff you’d find around the house or neighborhood

Pros: Free and easy! Cons: Often don’t work as well as proper tinder products. Dry out and compress any of these into a small container and you’re good to go:

• Old Man’s Beard and similar moss that’s fluffy and flammable (when dry)
• Cedar or Juniper bark. Common in the United States. Shave it or fluff it up for an awesome natural tinder
• Dryer lint — from cotton clothing is awesome. Lint from other clothing sources such as wool, microfiber and polypropylene may smolder, so not a great option, but it works
• Used wet wipes that have dried out
• Biofuels found around your yard, such as dry trimmings
• Newspaper, printer paper, junk mail… any kind of paper that doesn’t have a slick/glossy coating (eg. a magazine)

Cotton balls and paraffin wax or petroleum jelly

Both popular options create a waterproof tinder that works well in the field. Using paraffin is a more involved process, but it’s a little less sloppy, and you avoid the problem of jelly-coatings becoming more fluid in the heat. If you use jelly, try to store the coated balls in a waterproof container (eg. a ziploc bag) so that the viscous jelly doesn’t ruin other stuff.

Jelly:

1. All you need is a 100% pure cotton ball and normal petroleum jelly, like what you find in the pharmacy.
2. Simply coat a cotton ball in the jelly using your fingers or anything similar. You only need to cover the surface, no need to try and work it deep into the fibers. (You want some internal dry fibers anyway.)

Paraffin:

1. Buy Gulf Wax (the most common brand, but anything similar works fine) from your local supermarket. It is commonly found in the canning section.
2. Melt the wax in a double boiler. A double boiler setup is where you take a pot and fill it halfway with some water. Turn your burner on medium heat. Take another pot, preferably an old one, place your wax inside the pot, and set it on your first pot. The steam in your first pot will heat up the second pot, and melt the wax.
3. Once the wax is melted, turn off your heat source, and stir in your cotton balls.
4. When the balls are coated, use tongs to remove and place on parchment paper or similar.
5. Let cool.

Fire rope: natural cordage (eg. rope, hemp, jute) and paraffin

Similar concept to the cotton balls:

1. Use a natural cord, such as a cotton rope. Be mindful that some cordage already has fire retardant built in for safety, which you obviously want to avoid.
2. Cut the length you’d like to store. Some people like to make one long rope they cut down in the field before each fire, while others like to pre-cut.
3. Melt paraffin wax in a double boiler.
4. Gently swirl in the cord until it’s coated.
5. Remove, hang or place on parchment paper, let cool.

Fatwood (sort of)

Real fatwood is hard to fake because it takes years for the natural process of impregnation and evaporation to work. DIY methods like this essentially make waterproof kindling, less so a pure fatwood tinder.

1. Source a piece of pine, and using your favorite hatchet, cut the pine into small strips.
2. Using your double boiler, melt some paraffin wax or natural tree sap.
3. Place the small pieces of pine in the melted wax, and stir them around so they are evenly coated. When coated, remove with some tongs and set aside to cool.
4. Store in a ziploc bag or waterproof container.