Goliath Tigerfish Profile

The Hydrocynus Goliath, more commonly known as the goliath tigerfish, or giant tigerfish, is a vicious predatory fish found lurking in the waters of large rivers and lakes in central Africa.

They are found predominantly in the Congo River basin and Lake Tanganyika. This giant predator is one of the largest of the order of characids, which also include tetras, and piranhas.

They are thought to be one of, if not the most dangerous freshwater fish in the world.

Goliath Tigerfish Facts Overview

Habitat: Large rivers and lakes in central Africa Location: The Congo River basin, Lake Tanganyika Lifespan: Up to 10-15 years in captivity Size: 5 ft (1.5m) Weight: 50 kg (110 lb) Color: Pale grey/olive with black stripes, red or orange fins, grey dorsal fin Diet: Fish Predators: Crocodiles, humans Top Speed: 40 kph (25 mph) No. of Species: 1 Conservation Status: Least concern

Goliath tigerfish belong to the genus Hydrocynus, which is native to sub-Saharan Africa. There are five recognised species of the Hydrocynus, including the Hydrocynus Vittatus and Hydrocynus Brevis. 1 The Latin word hydrocynus means ‘water dog’, and the term ‘goliath’ speaks to the size of this monster – referring to the biblical giant of the same name.

Adult goliath tigerfish can reach up to 5 feet in length and can weigh up to 110lbs. They have a mouth full of vicious, razor sharp teeth. The teeth interlock when the jaw is closed and protrude outward slightly from the jaw, giving a fearsome appearance. Goliath tigerfish are feared for a reason: they are the only freshwater fish in Africa with documented attacks on humans.

They are usually an olive brown moving to a pale grey in color; with red or orange fins and a black dorsal fin. The name tigerfish refers to the black stripes that are often found running the length of the creature’s sides, as well as to its ferocious nature.

Hydrocynus Goliath depend heavily on highly oxygenated and fast-flowing waters. They therefore inhabit deep river channels and open lakes. They are not found in headwaters or marshy areas.

They are extremely strong swimmers due to their preference for fast moving waters, and are therefore able to snatch their prey even in the most turbulent of water. They are piscivores, and known to prey on fish up to 40% of their body length in size.

They have few known predators, due to their size and ferocity. Their only real threat is the crocodile. However, they are a widely-prized game fish and are therefore hunted by humans.

Interesting Goliath Tigerfish Facts

1. They get their name from their appearance, demeanor and size

The name tigerfish is a reference to the black stripes that are often found running down the flanks of these huge fish, as well as their fierce, sharp teeth and rapacious nature; while the word ‘goliath’ refers to their giant size.

However, the nickname tigerfish is used to refer to a number of vicious, predatory African river fish.

2. Goliath tigerfish have up to 32 razor-sharp teeth

The upper jaw contains 12-20 teeth, while the lower jaw 8-14. The teeth interlock into matching indents onto the opposite jawline, and protrude slightly from the mouth.

The teeth are slightly conical in shape and can be up to 2.5cm (1 inch) in length. To put this into perspective, they are a similar size to a great white shark.

Goliath tigerfish have been known to snap their prey in half with a single bite. 2

3. They have replaceable teeth

Although relatively little study has been carried out on these elusive creatures, a study by Gagiano et al (1996) observed that captive tigerfish would replace all their teeth simultaneously within a period of 5 days, with no replacement having been observed previously!

4. They have a double hinged jaw

This means they are able to open their jaws a lot wider than other fish, and as a result its teeth point further forward when it strikes prey, allowing it to take chunks from their flesh.

5. They can grow to the size of a small adult

Although they grow slowly, the juvenile goliath tigerfish will only grow on average four to six inches per year. It can therefore take up to 10 years for the fish to reach its full size.

6. They hunt alone

Tigerfish are solitary and have generally been observed alone, rather than hunting in schools or groups like their smaller cousin the piranha.

However, the females will migrate together to breed.

7. Females can lay up to 750,000 eggs

Female goliath tigerfish choose riverbanks or lakeshores to lay their eggs. Eggs are laid in underwater vegetation to protect them from predators as the young are not cared for by the parent fish.

The females lay a large number of eggs in order to increase the chances that some will survive to adulthood. Females can lay literally thousands of eggs – sometimes up to as many as 750,000. The fact that the nests of eggs are hidden in vegetation suggests a vulnerability in the juvenile goliath tigerfish.

8. Goliath tigerfish are predators from birth

These fish are piscivores, meaning that they feed only on fish. The infant goliath tigerfish go through a larval stage during which they feed on animal plankton.

They gradually migrate to larger fish as they grow in size and strength. They have been known to attack large animals.

9. Goliath tigerfish can turn to cannibalism

Goliath tigerfish are willing to ‘take chunks out’ of other large fish, large animals, and even each other in order to survive, although generally they only turn to cannibalism if food sources are scarce.

10. Goliath tigerfish need highly-oxygenated waters

The Hydrocynus species have a dependence on well-oxygenated and/or warm, fast-flowing freshwater, confining them to large rivers and open lakes.

This is in contrast to many other species, which can tolerate a wider range of ecological conditions.

11. They are known by natives as ‘M’Benga’

The goliath tigerfish is an elusive creature, and there is a lack of scientific knowledge about this beast.

However, it has long been a feature of myth and legend in its native Africa; earning itself the nickname ‘M’Benga’, which means ‘dangerous fish’ in Swahili dialect.

M’Benga is believed to be an evil spirit, and it has been said that it is very bad luck to spot one at the start of your journey. However, they are prized if ever caught.

12. They are the “greatest freshwater gamefish in the world”

At least, according to Bill Hansford-Steele in his ‘African Fly-Fishing Handbook’, as well as extreme angler Andy Coetzee.

Due to its size – and fearsome reputation – the goliath tigerfish has lured many a fisherman to attempt to catch the elusive beast.

A successful catch could feed many hungry mouths, especially in the rural parts of Africa where they live. The flesh of a tigerfish is said to be somewhat similar to Tilapia. 3

13. They have been reported to attack crocodiles, and humans

It is the only freshwater fish in Africa that is claimed to take lumps out of crocodiles that consider pursuing them, and even humans.

Although they are elusive, and attacks on humans are therefore rare, there are reports of natives on the Congo being bitten by these mysterious fish, and even a limited number of deaths reported.

A person on the show River Monsters reported that a goliath tigerfish was responsible for jumping out of the water and biting a man on his neck, killing him instantly.

Goliath Tigerfish Fact-File Summary

Scientific Classification

Kingdom: Animalia Phylum: Chordata Class: Actinopterygii Order: Characiformes Family: Alestidae Genus: Hydrocynus Species Name: Hydrocynus Goliath

1. Fenton Peter David Cotterill (2009), “How many tigerfish species? Genetic insights into the evolution of Africa’s Tigerfish and the taxonomic status of Tanzanian Hydrocynus“, Research Gate.
2. Barry Berkovitz, Peter Shellis (2017), “The tigerfishes (Hydrocynus spp.) are voracious hunters, of which the giant tigerfish (Hydrocynus goliath: Fig. 4.30A) is the largest“, The Teeth of Non-Mammalian Vertebrates.
3. Bill Hansford-Steele (2013), “African Fly-fishing Handbook A Guide to Freshwater and Saltwater Fly-fishing in Africa“, Google Books.

Going hunting? Need to touch up your gear? Look no further – creating your own camo pattern is easy! With the following tips, you can get that perfect, natural camo look in 15 minutes or less. Follow this easy, step-by-step guide to get the look.

What You Need

• Gear to spray paint
• Camo spray paint in black, brown, olive and khaki
• Drop cloth to protect from overspray
• Gloves (optional)
• Stencil (optional)
• Branches and leaves (ideally from the area you will be hunting in)

STEP 1: Prep your work area

Set up a spray area by covering your work space with a drop cloth. Make sure it is a well-ventilated area – outside is ideal. Using an all-purpose cleaner, thoroughly clean the inside and outside of your surfaces to remove dirt, oil and debris.

STEP 2: Paint your base

Depending on the surface, you may want to do a base colour on your project before layering with the camo pattern. It is always best to start with a base coat when you are working with a brightly coloured object.. One recommended product to accomplish this is Krylon Camouflage Spray Paint. For the base, layer the camo spray paint in black and brown using short, fast bursts. Keep layering colour until most or all of the original colour is gone.

Spray Tip: Make sure you read and follow the instructions on the can for proper spray distances, dry times and recoat timeframes. Products like Krylon Camouflage paint should be shaken for at least one minute after the ball has been released inside the can to ensure proper colour distribution. It is always recommended to test-spray on a scrap piece of paper or on your drop cloth before spraying your project. While painting, hold the can six to eight inches away from the surface and make sure to spray in smooth, even strokes to prevent drips or large areas of concentrated colour.

STEP 3: Create your camo

Layer leaves and branches over your project. Using the lighter colours (olive and khaki), spray in long, sweeping motions across the organic material. Remove the leaves and branches to reveal the pattern below. Repeat this process all around until you are satisfied with the pattern.

Spray Tip: Layer, Layer, LAYER! The more you layer the pattern, the more realistic it will look.

STEP 4

Let it dry. Spray paint typically dries in 15 minutes or less and can be handled in about one hour.

Quick Tips

• Choose the right pattern – pick branches and leaves from the area you will be hunting in to create a custom camo look to that area.
• Choose the right colours – layer colours so the hues that are most prominent in the area you will be hunting in are most featured. Always use an ultra-flat finish to ensure there is no light reflection.
• Pick a stencil – if you’re looking for a more traditional camo stencil, follow the instructions above, but instead of using natural stencils with leaves and branches, download them online. Krylon’s camo stencils can be found at krylon.com
• Light coats – for best results, use light, even coats instead of thick, heavy coats of paints. This will prevent drips and will also speed up dry time.

Rifle barrel life – How fast will your barrel reach retirement age?

In this age of increasing retirement age, it seems we’re expecting our rifle barrels to follow suit! In the world of high-performance rifle cartridges, barrel life maybe a short season. This month we look into rifle barrel life with 3 top gunsmiths on both sides of the Atlantic to get a shot at this highly energized topic amongst competitors, hunters and ELR shooters alike.

We spoke to three top gunsmiths in the game to find out how it effects competition shooters, ELR shooters and hunters, all after the ultimate performance for their intended game.

Left to right: Mik Maksimovic presenting a new rifle to a customer, Ryan Pierce out hunting and Harry Drescher from Solid Solution Designs

Rigby: Barrel life with traditional rifles like this Rigby in 375H&H is almost infinite. You will probably never wear out this traditional hunting rifle’s barrel.

Rifle barrel life is a topic I come across often when discussing some of the long-range cartridges both online and in gun shops. A few have also asked me about the barrel wear on the 300 Norma Mag cartridge so I thought I will put out a few thoughts about it as well as reeling in the thoughts of some top gun smiths in the process. What do they have to say?

For this we have reached out to Mik Maksimovic at Dolphin Gun company in the UK that has built more F-Class rifles than he cares to forget about.

We also spoke to Harry Drescher in the Netherlands from Solid Solution Designs that builds many large bore rifles for long range and ELR (exlrs.com) as well US based gunsmith Ryan Pierce, who has probably built more 300 Norma hunting rifles than anyone else and is a well-respected knowledge source on the respective 300Norma Facebook group. Among other things, Ryan builds 300 Normas that are meant to hunt with. This means that weight is usually on a premium and the overall balance of the gun important.

In this way we shall get 3 expert views on the important topic.

Why do barrels burn out?

Barrel wear or rather barrel burning comes from the immense heat that is generated whenever a cartridge is fired and you’re effectively channeling all that energy through a small hole hence coining the term for some cartridges as ‘over-bore’ cartridges. This creates immense heat and friction inside a small bore, pushing a bullet along the lands of the rifle barrel. The more powder you burn through a small hole, the more your barrels burns out. Shoot a few rounds fast, any you will feel that barrel steaming! All this in the name of Long Range Performance. Check out the video below of the high performance 338LM at 1 mile that we shot in Sicily.

Rifle barrel life in perspective

A 308win cartridge will burn circa 42grains of powder for a 30 caliber bullet. A 300 Norma is burning 90 grains of powder for the same 30 cal. bullet.

A 338 Lapua burns circa 90grains of powder under a larger .338 bullet. David Tubb’s 33XC is burning close to 125grain of powder, that’s 38% more than the 338Lapua for the same bullet diameter. Those big numbers you see on your chrono have an effect on your shoulder as well as your barrel life :_)

Does short barrel life hold you back from that shiny new cartridge you’ve been craving for?

Voere X3 rifle topped with leading Steiner tactical optics on offer

If you’re reading this, it probably concerns you. Rifle barrel life puts many prospective shooters off a high-performance cartridge. But should you really be concerned with barrel life? Here’s one way of seeing it. If burning barrels concerns you more than the performance you can achieve, than that level of performance is probably not for you or you don’t need it. High performance cartridges are created for specific tasks. If I’m using a 37XC cartridge to take out a high value target, the cost of my round is virtually negligible. If I take a 300Norma on my next Ibex hunt, the cost of the barrel wear and the lifetime of that barrel is virtually negligible too compared to the cost of my hunt. In the same way, if I’m a prospective F-class competitor and absolutely want the top cartridge I can manage to shoot that could help me achieve a marginal advantage to WIN, then 500 rounds of barrel life maybe just the ticket to achieve that. Are you still with me? If yes, keep reading.

300 Norma cartridge

Let’s take a hunting rifle chambered in 300Norma such as those built by Ryan Pierce. Let’s say we get 1000 rounds of tip top accuracy, 1/3 MOA accuracy shooting a 215gr at 3100ft/s without pushing it. We’re going to get impressive performance that will put meat in the freezer for years to come. It requires less than half the windage of my 308win seen below making my shots more forgiving in the same wind condition. If you take it out for practice once a month and fire 30 controlled rounds each time, that’s 360 rounds of practice in a year. That’s 3 years of practice with enough life in the barrel to bag tons of meat. Being a more wind forgiving round, it allows you make the same shot with half with difficulty. If you’re doing an Ibex hunt and absolutely must connect at any feasible distance you may be shooting, you can’t go wrong with a 300 Norma. You’re spending a few thousands on that trophy Ibex, barrel life in comparison is nothing, you guessed it! If you want to read more about the 300Norma, we prepared this in detail write up.

I’ve also noticed that the users after specific cartridges often are trying to achieve very specific goals and understand this principle better than others who just go to the range to plink and have fun burning a few rounds of ammo. Typically these rifle cartridge users build rifles around the bullet and cartridge they want to use or otherwise rechamber an existing rifle for a specific rifle which entails a new barrel and set of dies in most scenarios (as is the case with 338LM users shooting a 33XC) Typically these shooters are more involved with their goals and objectives and want to achieve specific goals.

How much barrel life are you happy with?

Above: A 308Win round is often thought of having some of the best barrel life available. 10k rounds is not unheard of in service rifles. Burning barrels is not an issue with such volume to bore ratio as found in the 308win. Get the March Scope 2.5-25×56 with upto 100MOA of elevation

View your barrel with a borescope as we did here https://www.instagram.com/p/CEGVveyJi9U/

If like us you enjoy Ultra long range, the 300 Norma Mag is a fantastic contender for 1-mile shooting as you can see here and even a few hundred yards further in the right conditions. Mine is doing 3250ft/s with a 215berger, it’s no slouch. My shooting buddy Robert is running 230s at 3050ft/s from a 29inch barrel.

Above: Pushing the limits during ladder testing of the 300Norma Mag before taking it for the King of 1 mile competition in France.

If you shoot 3 rounds and let it cool, you’re looking at 900-1200 rounds of barrel life maybe more.

“The other question I ask shooters that write to us at rifletalks.com is, do you want a 1-mile rifle or a rifle that can potentially shoot 1 mile?”

What’s the difference some ask me?

A 300win mag can shoot 1 mile as will your 30-06 and your 284Win as I saw at the king of 1 mile with the excellent shooting of Cap Beng from France. The guy is a phenomenal army shot but under gunned with a 284win at 1 mile. Had he been running a 300Norma, the outcome could have been very different.

A one mile rifle cartridge like the 300 Norma and similar cartridges have what it takes to connect at 1 mile. They are still supersonic at the distance, their windage correction will be relatively low say 6-8MOA of wind in 10mph full value which makes it easier to connect in changing winds.

If you want to shoot 1 mile in Europe, join this facebook group, Trapani one mile shoot with more info about the next one mile shooting weekend in Sicily, Italy coming March 2021.

Considerations around rifle barrel life

Below are some questions you may want to ask yourself when deciding about a new high performance cartridge.

1. String of shots – how many rounds are you expecting to shoot in a string?
2. What are your objectives with this cartridge?
3. Are you in for competition or a high-performance hunting cartridge?
4. What is the cost of your barrel wear?
5. What is the cost of ammo before you wear out the barrel?
6. How can you extend the lifetime of your barrel?
7. Are the achievements worthwhile for you?

How can I see what’s going on in the barrel?

I suggest you get yourself this borescope, for $129 it will give you a good idea what’s happening inside your barrel as you shoot your way through its lifetime as well as seeing what’s going on after you actually clean your barrel. Take the guess work out of the equation.

Above: a bartlein 308 barrel just before engaging the rifling forward of the lead, it’s brand new, only fired a proofing round through it.

Above, a 308barrel with about 200 rounds of 300 Norma Mag through it at 3250ft/s. Surprised?

How much does your rifle barrel wear cost?

Often, shooters take this to be the rifle barrel cost. If you’re in Europe you’re looking at £900-£1300 per barrel depending on configuration, length, fluting, finish, muzzle break etc.

When you consider a high-performance cartridge doing 1000 rounds of peak performance before it drops off, you’re looking at about £1 per shot in barrel wear plus whatever it costs you to assemble your ammo. I can see some of you raising their eyebrows. If you consider the cost of 1000 high performance rounds, you’re looking somewhere at £2-3 a pop if you handload and £6-8 if you shoot factory for the big magnums and ELR rounds. That’s £2-3000 in ammo consumed before replacing the barrel…. Still interested? Ok once we’re over the financials, let’s speak to the experts.

Chat with Mik Maksimovic

What does Mik Maksimovic have to say about rifle barrel life and burning barrels? (Dolphin Gun Company UK)

Producing some of the largest volume of F-Class rifles in Europe, Mik knows barrel life as the palm of his rifled hands 🙂

Rod: What kills rifle barrels fast when shooting strings?

Mik: Hey Rod, firstly, rifle barrels don’t wear out they BURN out. Heat from repeated firing burns barrels out slightly quicker

Rod: How many rounds do you expect your F-open gun to go?

Mik: I expect 2000 rounds from my 300 WSM and 1200 to 1500 from my 7-270 WSM

Rod: Do you see any big changes in F–open calibers?

Mik: F-Open is always evolving calibre wise, we have gone from 6.5-284 to 7mm to 30 Cal, but it’s restricted to 8mm and no one has gone down that route yet, no really good bullets in 8mm avail yet. (editor: similar challenges lie with the .408 round, not enough high performance bullets to choose from restricting the popularity of the cartridges)

Rod: What can help shooters in getting the most out of their barrels?

Mik: Using single based powders and cleaning correctly and regularly will give you the best barrel life, double based or high energy powders will burn a barrel out quicker

Rod: How far off is an FTR 308win barrel in terms of barrel wear from an open gun by today’s performance standards?

Mik: FTR 308Win barrel burns out the same as an F-open barrel, they use 20% or so less powder so they get longer barrel life, the barrel life is dependent on the calibre, and amount/type of powder burnt down the barrel.

You can email Mik [email protected] if you need more info referring to this article

Ryan Pierce on High Performance hunting rifles

Next: Ryan Pierce from Piercision rifles, USA

Above: Ryan doing what he enjoys best with his own high performance hunting rifles

Rod: What kills a barrel fast when shooting strings?

Ryan: There’s quite a few variables that come into play for killing a barrel. How hot you get the barrel. Are you shooting at a pace similar to F-class? (editor: 1 round every 80 seconds or so) That will cut barrel life in half easily if you get the barrel really hot all the time. I keep my barrels cool whenever possible. During load development I’ll wait a couple minutes between shots and use a chamber cooler during that time. The type of powder used will have an effect on barrel life also. I generally don’t let the barrels on my big magnums get really dirty. Extreme spread and accuracy opens up when that happens, due to carbon build up etc.

Rod: How many rounds do you expect your high performing 300Norma/ 28Nosler hunting rifles to go?

Above: High performance rounds can help you half your windage hold offs.

Ryan: Round count is pretty subjective. Accuracy requirements play a big role in that as well, along with the above-mentioned variables.

For instance, if a guy shoots a bunch of rounds through his 28 Nosler all the time and gets the barrel smoking hot while doing so he could shoot a barrel out in 3-400 rounds pretty easily. However, if you keep it cool and clean you can get 600 or more rounds down it. That’s pushing a 195gr at 3100+ fps. The Norma and Norma improved I am telling guys to expect 1000 rounds or more of good accuracy if the barrel is taken care of. I have a barrel with 800 rounds through it that still hammers. A customer sent me some groups from his awhile back that were still 1/8 moa at that round count. It all comes down to how the barrel is treated.

Rod: Do you see any big changes in high performing hunting calibers or barrels used for them?

Ryan: I did hear about Bartlein’s new steel they’re offering. Sounds like a good deal. Time will tell on the new steel.

As far as new cartridges go there’s always going to be the “latest and greatest”. “I’ve obviously built quite a few 300 Norma and Norma improved. The fact that Lapua makes the brass is a huge bonus for it. I have 28 WARM firings on a single piece of brass and the primer pocket is still tight. Feels almost brand new. Its a great round. Extremely accurate and wide nodes. Capable of sending a 230 berger over 3000 fps in a 26″ barrel and still fit in magazines while throated for heavy bullets.”

I’m currently messing with reloader 50 in my heavy 30″ barrel setup and have a node at 3150 fps with a 230 berger and no pressure signs. Its offering much better case fill than N570 also. Another one of the popular cartridges I’ve chambering for guys is the 30-28 Nosler which is simply a 28 Nosler necked up to 30 cal. It has more case capacity than the 30 Nosler. My personal rifle in it has a 26″ proof carbon and is pushing a 230 Berger at a little over 2950 fps with h1000. It’s mind blowing accurate as well. The last two groups I shot at 580 yds had .6″ vertical. I also shot a cold bore 3 shot group over 3 days at 580 yds. One shot per day. Each day had 10 mph winds from different directions. The 3 shot group was 1.7″ tall x 6″ wide. I misjudged a fishtail wind and opened the group up to 6″. The first two days the group was under 2″ and perfectly centered. It also shoots the 215 Bergers lights out at a little under 3100 fps with h1000. I’m guessing optimal barrel life for it will be 1200-1500 rounds.

Above: Nowhere is the game more life and death than when hunting in the mountains. High performance cartridges may just be your ticket to success!

Rod: How far off are these cartridges in terms of barrel wear from traditional cartridges like 300win mag by today’s performance standards and materials?

Ryan: Both those 30 cal magnums mentioned are quite a bit faster than the 300 win mag. 300 win mag is gonna get 1500+ rounds of good barrel life if its taken care of.

Another somewhat new and great option is the 131 gr Blackjack bullet with its sky-high BC. Its been out over a year now. I’ve done a few for guys and they’ve hammered. I’m finishing up a 25 SST for myself in the next week or two and will be using that bullet with it on deer/antelope size game. Not sure how long the barrel will last but seeing as its predominantly a hunting rifle it will last a long time.

That’s the same with my bigger magnums. Remember 600-1000 rounds of barrel life in a hunting rifle is a really long time. That’s a lot of meat in the freezer, haha. If the new steel ends up offering 50% or more-barrel life in big magnums, then the 33XC might start picking up popularity in hunting rifles. My current setup has quite a bit of throat erosion at 190 rounds. My buddy said it looked like his 6XC at 2000 rounds LOL.

The funny thing is the 33XC barrel is consistently holding 2-3″ vertical at 1000 right now. How much longer it will do that I have no idea but I’m guessing the barrel will give up peak accuracy around 400 rounds or maybe a hair less. I’m going to try a different powder in my next barrel and see if that helps with throat erosion etc. Currently using N570 and pushing a 300 gr berger at 3225 fps in a 30″ proof carbon barrel. That combo definitely isn’t going to be easy on barrels!

Rod: What can help shooters in getting the most out of their barrels?

Ryan: My advice to new shooters on allowing the barrels to last as long as possible is to keep them cool. Don’t shoot 5-10 round strings. Let it cool between each shot to maximize barrel life.

Ryan is extremely knowledgeable and helpful, you may contact him here [email protected]

Remember, keep load development short when testing hi performance rifle cartridges. Learn how to load develop in < 50 rounds here.

Dutch Rifle smith on ELR rounds

FOR SALE MARCH GENESIS 6-60×56

Read about the March Genesis ELR scope.

Next from the Netherlands, is Harry Drescher (Solid Solution Designs)

Rod: What kills a barrel fast during shooting strings?

Harry: In order to answer this question, we should think about how the barrel is built and how it is constructed, that is a free-floating match barrel in a MTU style profile. Let’s take stainless steel barrels, Single point cut rifling. The critical part of the barrel is the first 10 inches from the chamber into the barrel. This is exposed to a lot of pressure, heat, carbon and coppering. It is the area where the bullet spins for the first time in the lands and grooves of the barrel. If you shoot a fast string,and repeat this, the internal surface wears fast and the heat stress will cause deformities also known as heat cracks or snake skin. In time when these deformities grow, the accuracy can drop off.

Rod: How many rounds do you expect your high performing ELR rifles like 33XC and 375chey to go?

Harry: If the customer chooses the type of barrel and the type of rifling as mentioned in option 1 we can expect loss off accuracy after as much as 1200 rounds in high performance mode. This means monolthic bullets, with speeds over 960m/s

Rod: Do you see any big changes in high performing calibers or barrels used for them?

Harry: Recently we have seen a massive increase of sales of replacement barrels in 33xc, and 37xc as well as 416 Barret. The main brand chosen is in our view Bartlein, Krieger, and Proof research. Runner up is Benchmark and Rangemaster Precision Arms barrels being both top notch supplier of button rifled barrels.

Rod: What can help shooters in getting the most out of their barrels?

Harry: Choose a matching finished length and twist rate that really helps you achieve your ULR goals. Lower twist rates can really make the difference in the subsonic phase.

First accuracy, then speed we always say. Off course it’s a relative thing.

When your barrel is freshly cut, and you start using it, it will wear out. The first few hundred rounds will be the best that you get. A good tip might be to focus your cleaning more on carbon removal and less on copper removal. In this way you maintain the performance level even better.

And for projectiles, please choose a good High BC bullet like WTC, Berger solid, Cutting Edge, SSD Holland.

Rod: How far off are these ELR cartridges from introductory cartridges like 338Lapua when it comes to burning barrels?

Harry: The true ELR cartridges are reducing rifle barrel life fast. That is absolutely true. We have seen that already with the good old 300rum back in the days.

Where a 338lapua magnum can do easily 3000 rounds without loss off accuracy, Formula 1 cartridges like 375CT, 33xc, and the others mentioned will engage your barrel rapidly. I have even had a customer who did 600 rounds laser-style in his 416Barret, ending the rifling for a good 45 percent…….. I must admit that he used a brass solid over a copper solid, but still. Yeah!

You may reach Harry Drescher here: [email protected]

Over and Out,

Rod

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Waterfowl hunting is tough on gear! The conditions for an amazing day at the marsh, on the lake, in flooded timber, or on the river are the same conditions that will put your gear to the test. Cold fronts, snow cover, and winter storms drive the waterfowl migration south and you can bet you don’t want to miss those new birds arriving to your honey hole. Hunters spend countless hours sorting through decoys, blinds, waders, and calls getting ready for the hunt, but don’t forget to pay special attention to the gun you are taking into the field, and how you expect it to perform. Specifically, make sure you are using the right choke for your waterfowl hunts this season.

Shotgun choke selection is a key decision on any waterfowl hunt. Knowing how your shotgun will perform at various ranges with a selected choke is paramount to successfully bagging more birds. Screw in chokes give hunters the flexibility and confidence to adjust to the hunting situation by having multiple choke choices available. By catering your shotgun choke tube to the hunting situation at hand, you can put more pellets on target when those ducks and geese come cruising in. One key component when it comes to selecting the right choke for the hunt is knowing how your shotgun will perform with each choke tube and shotshell in your bag at various ranges.

Choke tube patterning is an important step to quickly discern how your gun will perform with various shotgun choke tubes at varying distances. A little trigger time at the range will provide incredibly valuable information when it comes time to hunt. Different hunting styles and situations call for changing up your choke tube to be most effective. By patterning your shotgun with choke tubes designed for close, medium, and long ranges, with the ammunition you plan to hunt with, you will have the confidence to get on target. Waterfowl hunting requires non-toxic shot, and many hunters choose steel shot. As a general rule, you should move up one choke size from lead to steel when selecting a choke for your waterfowl hunts. If you would use a full choke with lead shot, move to a modified when shooting steel; from modified with lead to improved with steel, etc. Many manufacturers offer a three pack choke tube package, putting together the appropriate chokes for close range, medium range, and long range situations in one convenient pack; making it easy to use the right tool for the job. Having a three pack variety of choke tubes in your blind bag is one fantastic way to ensure you are ready for whatever the hunting situation calls for.

Close Range Choke Tube

Close Range Hunts

Hunting waterfowl in at close range can produce heart pounding action that is tough to beat. Mallards cupped up and dropping into a small riffle on a frozen river, Canadian geese cruising in fully committed, and ducks dropping into flooded timber are all exhilarating hunts at close range. Targets on close range hunts are generally presented 30 yards and closer, sometimes much closer. It’s critical to select a close range choke for these in your face hunts to be most effective.

Patterning Close Range

To learn how your shotgun patterns a choke and load, take a shot at a paper target with a 15” circular bullseye on a 30” piece of cardboard or paper stock. From a steady rest with a close range, or cylinder (.000 constriction) choke in the shotgun, count the hits on target to determine the effectiveness of the choke tube and shotshell combo. Tweaking variables like shot size and shotshell brand can have an affect on the results. Now that you know what to expect when you’re on target at close range with the appropriate choke, it’s time to try mid range.

Mid Range Choke Tube

Mid Range Hunts

For most of waterfowl hunting, targets are engaged at mid range. Mallards trying to land just outside the decoys, a group of geese making several low passes, or teal fanning up 35 yards from the blind are all real hunting scenarios. Making the most of your shotgun pattern at mid range is critical to the hunt and your success. By taking the time to pattern your shotgun with the ammo you plan to hunt with paired with a mid range choke tube, you will know exactly how your shotgun will perform on target.

Patterning Mid Range

For waterfowl hunters, an improved cylinder (.010) is ideal for mid range targets.

Patterning an improved cylinder choke is the same process as patterning a close range choke tube, but with a new choke. Position a clean target at 35 yards to simulate hunting at mid range and take a shot from a steady rest. Count the number of pellets on target to determine the choke and load effectiveness. It will be easy to see the pattern has tightened up from the shotgun in the improved cylinder tube, this tightening puts more pellets on target at a longer range.

Long Range Choke Tube

Long Range Hunts

Some days the birds just won’t work like you want them to. The fact is, hunting waterfowl can be tough, and you have to take the shots that are available. Whether you find yourself having to take passing shots at birds coming off a lake, or the birds just won’t commit to your decoys; sometimes you have to take those longer shots. Having the right choke in your shotgun for those long shot hunts is more critical than ever, and patterning your shotgun to understand your effective range will give you the confidence to call the shot.

Long Range Patterning

A long range choke constricts the shot pattern to an even higher degree than close or mid range chokes. Modified (.020) chokes work well for long range shots at waterfowl. The process for patterning a long range choke is the same as a close or mid range choke, but at a further distance. Practice shooting your desired hunting load at 40 yards and beyond to see how your pattern holds together, and to realize your effective range.

Duck and goose hunting is a ton of fun, and a fantastic way to enjoy the late season outdoors. Waterfowling offers amazing opportunities for fellowship with friends, and is an ideal way to introduce young people to the outdoors and the hunting way of life. When you head out to the duck blind, goose pit, or marsh this season; make sure all your gear is in order, and that you’ve got the right choke for the job screwed into your shotgun. Selecting the right choke tube will help you put more shots on target, and bring home more limits.

Calling in bobcats is a tough task many predator hunters attempt, but few master. After reading these bobcat calling tips, you’ll be on your way to having a better understanding of how to call in bobcats at night and during daylight. A lot of bobcat calling mastery comes from understanding their characteristics, behavior, and perspective on life as they see it.

General Bobcat Calling Tips

Calling Bobcats at Night

Nighttime Setup and Location

How to Call Bobcats at Night

Calling Bobcats During Daylight

Day Time Setup and Location

How to Call Bobcats During the Day

Best States for Calling in Bobcats

General Bobcat Calling Tips

Generally speaking, bobcats are most abundant near water sources. They prefer traveling through creek beds, along rivers and streams, and even heavy brush areas. They aren’t ones to come out in the open, they almost always prefer to have cover as they are natural stalkers.

In order to be effective in hunting a territory for bobcats, the first step is figuring out if they are even in the area. A section of land that has all the characteristics that cater to bobcats, may still not actually have bobcats.

The first and foremost method of confirming if a bobcat is in the area is to search for tracks, scat, or even dead animals covered with leaves and brush or in trees.

Here’s a couple general calling tips that separate bobcats from coyotes:

• Scan areas of cover heavily while calling, bobcats rarely fully commit to a call like a coyote does.
• Coyote stands may be over in as little as 15-20 minutes, bobcat stands can last an hour or longer.
• Stopping and starting calling sequences can spark a coyotes curiosity, the same tactic will cause a bobcat to lose interest. It’s important to keep bobcats focused on the target, and never stop calling. Decoys are also a great method to keep bobcats focused on the prize.
• Location calls work to find areas with coyotes, but scouting and observing is the best method to find areas with bobcats.
• If you’re calling bobcats in a new area, talk to the local farmers and ranchers or even Wildlife Department to get an idea where they are most commonly seen.
• Foxes and coyotes are more likely to come to your call before a bobcat does. Be aware of this before choosing to discharge.
• Bobcat calls should be higher pitched and at lower volumes as they get closer to the call. Bird and rabbit distress are two go-to calling techniques for bobcats.

Calling Bobcats at Night

The general bobcat calling tips we discussed above apply to calling bobcats at night, but the strategy of night time calling and day time calling is significantly different.

Nighttime bobcat calling is learning how to use the darkness to pull bobcats out of areas of cover, where they feel more comfortable. The darkness gives them a sense of protectiveness, and with the help of red hunting lights you can reveal them in the open without them knowing.

Nighttime Setup and Location

The best areas to setup while calling bobcats at night are open fields near a brush or tree line, open senderos, or even in the middle of dry creeks if there is enough visibility.

Bobcats are notorious to stay in areas of cover, but at night the darkness is their protection so they are far more willing to come out into the open. In our opinion, it is far easier to call a bobcat in at night versus the day time.

Thermals and night vision are becoming more popular for nighttime bobcat hunting, but red hunting lights can be equally as beneficial. Learn how to properly scan when predator hunting and a light can be more advantageous than night vision or thermal.

We prefer using our Predator Cannon Hunting Light Bars for calling bobcats at night, as they light up an entire field in red without alerting the cat, and are fully dimmable for near and far ranges. We’ve picked up a bobcat in the scope at over 800 yards with the Predator Cannon.

Predator Cannon Hunting Light Bar Setup for Calling Bobcats

If you’re interested in a mobile setup for calling in bobcats and covering a bunch of land, the Predator Cannon Hunting Light Bars are most likely a great fit for you. Here’s some different mounting idea’s we’ve seen from bobcat calling contest winners: Predator Cannon Hunting Light Mounting Ideas.

How to Call Bobcats at Night

When calling bobcats at night, once you start…don’t stop. They can lose interest very easily. The good news is bobcats are more likely to commit to a call like a coyote would at night in comparison to the daytime.

It’s best to know where you’re going to setup and scope the area during the day so you’re not fumbling around at night distracting critters around you.

• Calls should be based upon what is more locally available in terms of birds and rabbits: if there are woodpeckers, use woodpecker distress; cottontails, use cottontail distress; jackrabbits, use jackrabbit distress and so on.
  • If you aren’t sure what’s in the area, the three distress calls listed above are fairly universal in attracting bobcats. The following are my favorites (in order) – cottontail distress, jackrabbit distress, woodpecker distress.
• Learn how to scan while predator hunting, and never stop. Use the light to your advantage by using it as your camouflage without alerting the target.
  • A dimmable red hunting light that is well within their color blind range is key to illuminating the bobcat without alerting them.
  • It’s true that if the light is used properly, you can literally walk right up to a bobcat (within 30-40 yards) without alerting them.
  • I keep my bow stabilizer light on hand at all times in the event I have to be mobile while calling. It’s small enough to fit in my pocket, but has long range capabilities combined with desirable dimmable controls.
• Constantly scan for eyes, and be prepared to act fast on a committed bobcat.
  • Be wary as raccoons, fox, and coyotes are all likely to commit to the same calls you are using to attract bobcats at night.
• Use the wind to your advantage, position yourself downwind from the call to limit the senses a bobcat can use to expose you.
• Even though it’s nighttime – STILL USE A DECOY. Bobcats have great night vision and will still be able to see it. This is a great way to get them to commit to the call.
  • My personal favorite decoy is a Mojo Critter, or any furry mechanical toy that has a whipping tail on it.

Calling Bobcats During Daylight

Calling bobcats during daylight can be a tough task to accomplish. One could say they have severe commitment issues unless they are enticed really, really well. The best way to entice them? Well, a decoy… or something similar such as hanging turkey feathers from a limb.

I’ve tried both and a mechanical decoy is more enticing that feathers hanging, but either one is better than nothing.

Day Time Setup and Location

Bobcats are more than likely not going to come out of cover during the day like they would at night, so the key to your day time setup is to be near areas of cover and constantly scan the brush or wooded area looking for a feline sitting on the edge of cover.

It will be your job to spot them camouflaged in cover before they lose interest and leave.

How to Call Bobcats During the Day

• Similar to nighttime calling, the same types of calls apply – go with what is local to the area in terms of rabbits and birds, ideal calls are: cottontail distress, jackrabbit distress, and woodpecker distress.
  • Be prepared to see fox and coyotes, as they are more likely to commit before a bobcat will. Raccoons are common at night but less likely to come out during the day.
• Anything can happen, but plan on the bobcat coming in slow and making frequent stops. Keep your eyes peeled, but most bobcats won’t come into sight until the 20 minute mark and may not come until the hour mark.
  • Be confident in your scouting and don’t leave too soon.
  • Duration of stands are much longer than coyote stands, but when moving from one stand to the next, should move at a greater distance. We typically move at least half a mile from previous calling location.
• Decoys are extremely important to keeping the bobcats attention. Never stop calling, minimize your movements, and make your shot count. A spooked bobcat is tough to call back in no matter what your buddy says.
• Be prepared to discharge when you are capable of taking the shot. Don’t wait too long. Despite a running call and action-packed decoy, bobcats can still lose interest very easily.
• Be prepared for the unexpected: there are a few times where we’ve called in a dry creek bed that was not pressured and happened to be a bobcat’s territory. Within seconds of starting our call, the bobcat came sprinting down the creek bottom letting out the loudest and most unique sound I’ve ever heard, repeating it over and over. Come to find out it’s known as the bobcat bark.
  • A bobcat’s bark is typically their way of chasing another animal from its home territory. It’s a protective instinct, so if you hear it, be ready as you’ve got a cat coming quick.

Best States for Calling in Bobcats

Most states have bobcats, but some are more abundant than others. We are located in Texas, where there is no season for bobcats, but many states do have a season for taking these critters. Texas is home to some of the biggest bobcats in the nation, and they’ve become a nuisance for farmers as they favor feeding on young or injured livestock.

Here are our top 5 best states for calling in bobcats:

1. Texas
2. Kansas
3. Missouri
4. Nevada
5. Oklahoma

Fun fact: Generally speaking, approximately 2/3 of all bobcat harvests come from trappers who are called to the area by farmers. The remaining 1/3 of harvests are from hunters.

Closing Remarks

Over the years, I’ve seen a bobcat react in just about every manner you can imagine. Each bobcat has it’s own personality and characteristics just like we hunters and our pets do, but I can say that in general terms they are going to come in slow to a call with frequent stops.

They rarely do anything that would make them stick out of the brush, so it’s extremely important for you to closely monitor the area and be aware of change, movement, and the outline of their body.

I can’t tell you how many times I’ve come close to giving up on calling in a bobcat and I do one last scan through brush and end up picking out a bobcat sitting still, patiently watching my decoy.

Thanks for reading along. I hope I am able to help another hunter learn the bobcat calling game and become a better predator hunter like those who helped me.

I will teach you how to legally and safely refill 1 lb propane bottles for the best savings available. If you don’t already know: Coleman 1 lb propane bottles are extremely expensive (Later I will explain why it is dangerous and illegal to refill disposable propane cylinders with a refill kit). You will end up paying around $13.99 for a 4-pack at a big box store or up to $6.99 for a single 1lb cylinder at a convenience store.

Costs of Refilling Your Propane

Compare that to refilling a 5-gallon cylinder. You can get propane by the gallon (not by the pound) for $2.59-$3.50. You get about 8.35 pounds PER gallon. Let’s assume you purchased the Coleman 4-pack which comes to a price of $15.00 after tax (7.25% in CA) and is, therefore, $3.75 per pound. If you get your fuel from a filling station, you only pay $0.332 per pound. You can already see the savings without doing the math.

You will need a refillable 20 lb tank propane tank and the Flame King refill kit $45-$50, which you can find online at FlameKing.com or Sportsmans Warehouse. The kit comes complete with a stand, adapter and a 1lb tank. You can purchase more tanks for about $15.00 each.

Have your own way to mount your tank? You can purchase the adapter here for about $23.00. If you don’t already own a 20 lb tank, you can find one at your local hardware store. I purchased mine at Tractor Supply for about $35.00 (yes, these are some upfront costs, but look at the long-term savings). You can check 20lb tank prices online here. I recommend getting a digital scale for precise measurements but this is optional. I use an AWS digital scale which I purchased on Amazon for around $12.

Once you have all of your equipment, you’re ready to start filling!

How To Refill a 1lb Propane Tank

Place your 20 lb tank upside down on the stand, hook up the adapter and attach your refillable 1 lb propane canister. Use the provided hex key wrench to open the bleed valve on the 1lb tank. Press the valve lever on the adapter and let the process begin. You will start to hear liquid propane enter into the cylinder. The large tank needs to be upside down because you want the liquid propane to fill the small cylinder, not propane in its gaseous state. Otherwise, you’ll only get a fraction of the fuel!

The stand allows you to hold your 20lb tank upside down and hook up the 1lb tank below it without touching the ground. The filling process is pressure equalization in both tanks. Once you see the propane gas start shooting out of the bleeder hole, you know you’re done. This took me a better part of 1 minute to fill.

If you purchased the optional digital scale then you can make precise measurements.

I start by weighing the empty cylinder (make sure your weight setting is in the “oz” mode), press the ‘tear’ button and this will zero the measurement. Then fill the cylinder, place it on the scale, and repeat the process until you reach 16oz (1 pound). You can also weigh the cylinder without tearing the empty weight, write down the weight and add 16oz to the total weight. Once it’s full, you can write down the weight on the cylinder for future use.

That’s it! You’re done and ready to enjoy the savings by never having to purchase another disposable propane tank again! Additionally, you can take a little pride that you’re not dumping precious resources into landfills.

Here is a detailed version of how I did it and the equipment I used.

The stand is designed to support the 20-pound bottle but not to leave it on the stand if you’re not using it. There is no support feature from accidentally knocking the bottle off the stand. It is easy to assemble with a pad, 2 U-shaped support bars, wing nuts, screws, and washers. You don’t need any equipment except your hands to assemble.

The attached propane refill tap station ready-to-use.

The refillable 1 lb tanks each come with a hex key as well as a plastic tank valve cap. I purchased 3 additional one-pound tanks and each came with a hex key.

The propane cylinder cap is threaded and has four rings to easily carry with your fingers or for whatever you wish to use them for. My only complaint is that I was it was a little more sturdy, but they’re a lot better than the disposable caps.

The relief valve is shown just above the main valve.

Pictured is the propane bottle and refill adapter together. You will notice there is a U-shaped protrusion that will fit into the tank valve. This is to prevent the filling of propane cylinders not approved by Flame King (or the Department of Transportation).

The complete set-up with both propane bottles is ready to go. I like how the 1 lb propane tank sits off the ground for easy attachment. The relief valve is easy to access should your propane refill begin to overflow.

Here is where the hex key attaches to the relief valve. Flame King suggests opening the relief valve slightly to allow liquid propane to occupy the space inside the 1 lb propane cylinder.

Once you have everything securely attached, you are ready to operate your refill station. Begin by opening the main valve on your 20 lb propane tank.

Press and hold down on the lever to begin the propane refill process. I personally like how you can start and stop the process by just letting go. As you press down, you will hear the liquid propane start to flow into the smaller propane tank. While you’re filling the propane tank, open the relief valve just a hair. You will hear and smell escaping gas.

This is ok because it’s just the oxygen and gas coming out. The liquid propane is filling from the bottom up and pushing out the oxygen. Once you begin to see a white mist of propane, close the valve on your 1 lb propane cylinder and depress the valve on the propane refill adapter.

That is it! According to Flame King, you have filled the tank to approximately 80% (around 1 lb of fuel).

Once you are finished, it is now time to detach your 1 pound propane cylinder from the tap. This is where gloves will come in handy. First, close the main valve to your 20 lb cylinder.

When removing the 1 lb content from the propane refill station, there is a high chance propane will vent out from the tap. This is extremely cold and could cause a burn to some degree (no pun intended). There is also residual in the tap system and that can spray out cold fuel.

I found that as long as the main valve is closed, you can press the fill lever and release the pressure from the tap. Remove the refill kit from the 20 lb tank and finally take the main propane tank off and flip right side up. Store all your propane tanks in a well-ventilated area. Do not store where any escaping fumes could be collected next to an ignition source (water heater, gas dryer, etc).

As an added measure of safety, I spray soapy water on the end of the 1lb propane tank. If you see small bubbles forming, then you have a leak. Try depressing the main valve and let it snap shut. This usually does the trick. If nothing, then wipe off and you’re ready to store or use. Cheers!

Dangers of Refilling Disposable Propane Cylinders

Now I explain why it is dangerous and illegal to refill those disposable cylinders. Disposable 1 lb propane tanks are convenient for their intended applications and looks like an easy job. Unfortunately, they are not supposed to be refilled and according to federal law, it is illegal to transport refilled disposable cylinders. Getting caught and having it proven that you refilled the tanks seems very unlikely, but it’s still not worth the risk.

Technically, you can refill them so long as you do not transport them and keep them on-site. The valve design has an overflow safety feature that is supposed to release propane if the pressure is too great. I have refilled several containers with a standard refill adapter (which some believe is a great accessory to their camping gear) with no issue and many other people have done this too.

Chances of a critical failure may be low, but I ask you this question: How much is your life, your loved one’s life, or your body worth to you? Is it worth the risk to save a few dollars to refill disposable tanks? I’m one to spend a few extra dollars for better quality material and peace of mind.

Weight Difference Between Propane Tanks

The disposable Coleman DOT 39 propane tanks are much lighter than the Flame King tanks. The disposable tanks have an empty weight of 13.37oz while Flame King is 22.46 oz. A difference of 9.09 oz or over a half pound! That is more metal on the cylinder. Simply holding both empty tanks in hand, you can easily feel the difference in weight.

By comparing both cylinders, one can see the difference in the welding between the 1lb propane tanks. The flame king simply looks more durable while the disposable Coleman propane cylinder is seam welded.

The reason is metal fatigue (learn more about metal fatigue here). Every time you deplete the propane out of the Coleman bottle, the pressure naturally decreases. Refilling the tank quickly introduces pressure back into it. Even with the pressure relief valve, repeating this process a lot of times begins to wear on the structural integrity of the cylinder and it can increase the likelihood of a catastrophic failure. This is especially true around the seam weld.

If you reload ammunition, you know that you can only reload the brass x-amount of times before you have to retire it. Refillable tanks are DESIGNED to be depleted and refilled over many uses, and they’re DOT approved for transport.

If you are dead set on refilling disposable 1 lb propane tanks, customers can purchase a refill kit on Amazon for a price of around $6. Those things are a pretty cheap accessory to your camping gear. I found a high-quality brass adapter at Harbor Freight for $20.00.

Even with that, you need to find a way to support the 20lb tank upside down. Then, you will need to repeat the process of attaching the 1lb propane tank to the adapter, open the valve, fill until you hear the propane stop, bleed the Schrader valve (which reportedly tends to leak after repeated bleeding) or unscrew it, re-attach and repeat until it is full. With the

Flame King, you get the stand, fill valve adapter, and a hex key which allows you to fill a tank in about 1 minute. If you value your time, this is another way to save money.

I purchased the Pro-X almost six months ago after reading about it in Slingshot World Magazine. After an initial issue I experienced upon receipt of my order, I was blown away with how quickly Saunders was to, not only respond to my frustrated emails, but how fast they were to make things right. Now that I have had the time to shoot the Pro-X a while, I believe I can give it an accurate customer review. I own like 30-40 other catapults and I think the Pro-X best resembles a “star-craft” style shooter. I instantly fell in love upon first shots. I grew up in the Boy Scouts of America, shooting archery long before ever taking a slingshot seriously. However, once I discovered the true marksmanship qualities in catapults, I also realized my childhood archery fundamentals drastically minimized any learning curves related to achieving consistency and accuracy when shooting slingshots. That being said, shooting the Pro-X feels closest to a bow’s shot routine, compared to all my other frames. It makes shooting heavy caliber ammo/bands comfortable, REPEATABLE, and most importantly accurate, especially at longer distances. Don’t get me wrong, I’m capable of shooting some heavy .80 anit-cold bands and 1/2″ steel with a Scout from SimpleShot, but I would have never expected to put a grouping on target at 30 – 40 meters. That’s right, accuracy with 7/16″-1/2″ steel at that distance is achievable with the Pro-X! That is where this masterpiece shines. Everything else: The way the Pro-X folds up makes it more portable than any other of its size/caliber. The hard pouch design is revolutionary, in my opinion, allowing just about anyone to pick it up a shoot without having to worry about the perfect pouch release that plagues many new shooters. The fiber optics “Pipper Sight” puts any other attempts at a slingshot sight system to shame with how bright the military grade fiber optics are to how useful the little liquid level is for newer shooters. I love how versatile it is by having the ability to configure the sight on either fork tip depending on the distance of target. Having the ability and knowledge to tune the Pro-X to hit a target like 60 meters away really separates it from any competition. The Clod Poppers I got with my order are awesome, they are the same size as any 7/16″ steel ammo I shoot and unlike some other clay ammo brands I’ve tried, the Clod Poppers I received were all the same size and they were all perfectly round! I even found that their weight were all within 0.1-0.2 grams (1.45g – 1.65g with MOST right around 1.60g) which allows for repeatable results.

The only negatives I’ve experienced so far (A) With the Pipper Sight installed, the Pro-X won’t fully collapse. The little level is in the way from allowing the arm to click into it’s closed position. (B) Latex wears out no matter what, and I find a correlation that seems to follow the rule: the more fun you’re having, the faster they wear! With the Pro-X, Specialty band sets are required for replacement and being a shooter who cuts and makes his own replacement band sets, this is frustrating.

In conclusion, don’t buy this if you want to shoot indoors or even in tight-quarter backyard spaces. The Pro-X is DEFINITELY not a 1/4″ steel “plinker”. This tool provides power and accuracy at distances that can’t be touched by any other catapult, In my opinion, and should be used as such. I felt good doing business with Saunders, a family business, knowing that my Pro-X was made in the USA. If you are on the fence about buying, rest assured you will be getting a quality product that comes with even better customer service.

Thanks again Chuck, for the awesome Saunders experience!

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Yellow perch are a popular gamefish in their native range in parts of the Midwest and Canada, as well a wider area of North America where they now thrive.

Why not? Perch are incredibly tasty and at times can be caught in huge numbers … if you know what you’re doing.

One of the most important things you’ll need to know to catch lots of fillet-worthy perch is what to put on the hook.

This article reveals dozens of the best baits for perch we know, which at times can result in excellent catches. Some will be obvious, like the ever-effective minnows and worms. Some are a little unusual.

And a few will surprise the heck out of you but can really get the job done.

Many of these bait types can be used all year, whether under the summer sun when you might be fishing deeper water or in the dead of winter while ice fishing.

To put this article together, we consulted with Bill Janowich. Simply put, Janowich has been perfecting his fish-catching techniques longer than I’ve been alive.

“I’ve been perch fishing for over 70 years, so I’ve seen a thing or two,” said Janowich, who lives in Ohio near Lake Erie. His favorite perch bait on that Great Lake is a 2-inch shiner minnow.

“However, there are many other fisheries in the world, and many different methods of catching perch,” he told us. “Sometimes, necessity is the mother of invention.”

We already have a complete guide to yellow perch fishing on this website.

This article complements the fishing guide by going into more depth on the many baits that will have you catching these fish 12 months out of the year, whether you’re fishing them under the blazing summer sun or through the winter ice.

A variety of baits also can be used in conjunction with Janowich’s own perch-fishing kit.

“I have personally used most of these baits myself,” he said. “Live bait is usually more effective than artificial lures.”

To help you keep them all straight, we’ll divide the types of baits into broad categories.

Don’t see your secret bait for catching yellow perch? Send us a comment below.

Fishy Baits

While the smaller perch feed primarily on insects and crustaceans, the big yellow perch you really want to catch love nothing better than a meal-sized minnow or cut bait.

Often the best minnow or cut baits to use are those that live in the water where you are fishing, because that’s what the perch are already eating.

One note here is that live fish aren’t always legal baits, so check the regulations where you will fish to be sure it’s allowed. In some waters or entire states, live fish and other aquatic creatures aren’t permitted because their use can result in invasive species.

Here are some great examples of using fish as bait to catch yellow perch.

Live Minnows and Other Swimmers

Various types of shiners, freshwater shad, and other small fish are incredibly effective yellow perch baits when fished live right near the bottom.

While many perch anglers prefer small minnows, Janowich likes to fish minnows in the 2- or even 3-inch size range. While that seems big for perches’ small mouths, perch love a nice meal and larger perch will be drawn to larger baits.

In fact, Janowich caught the 14.5-inch jumbo perch pictured above on a 3-inch emerald shiner. It was certified as an “outstanding catch” in Ohio and “fought like a northern pike,” he said.

If smaller 1-inch baits are all you can get, they will work well but also will result in catching some small yellow perch, but bigger ones also will take it.

The following are some minnow and other aquatic baits that might work well, given their availability and legality where you are fishing. Other local options may also be effective.

Shiners

This is a common family of minnows with hundreds of types, and they are among the best live bait you can get.

For example, emerald and spottail shiners are native to the Great Lakes, where shiners are Janowich’s first choice for perch bait. Emerald shiners are more common, but those spot-tails can be excellent if you can find them.

Shiner numbers are down in some areas of the Great Lakes, so catching them can be more difficult.

Bait shops also will sell other small bait fish, such as golden shiners and fathead minnows. Minnow prices at bait stores have gone up in recent years, but they are still worth seeking out, Janowich said.

Dead minnows, including commercially brined or home-salted varieties, aren’t as good as the live variety and at times can be mushy, but these still can be among the best bait alternatives if live minnows aren’t available, Janowich added.

Shad (various types)

Depending on where you are, there may be some freshwater shad available. Gizzard shad are fairly common in the Upper Midwest, and thread fin shad are another variety that might be available where you are.

Herring

These are in the same big family as shad and are similarly effective bait where you can obtain them.

Mosquito fish

Often can be caught in shallow water in lakes and ponds, or might be sold locally.

Suckers

There are a wide variety of suckers across the U.S., and if they co-exist with yellow perch, the small ones will be on the perch’s menu.

Gobies

These are destructive invasive species in many waters including the Great Lakes. Turn the tables when you catch one and turn them into bait.

Crayfish

Live or dead, the soft-shelled ones are especially good perch bait.

Tadpoles

Or pollywogs or whatever you call them, the larval stage of amphibians (often frogs) make excellent bait fished live. They can be found and netted in abundance at certain times of the year, often in the spring.

Freshwater Eels

Smaller eels are excellent perch baits, if you can get them. They are favorite forage for finny fishes and also have lots of action like leeches or lively worms.

Cut Baits

The above types of fish can be used dead, either whole or as cut baits.

Simply fillet larger fish and cut them into about 1-inch long strips of about a quarter inch wide, keeping the skin on to help hold your bait to the hook.

Generally speaking, the best cut baits use fish that are available in the waters where you are fishing.

Some cut bait types to consider include:

Yellow Perch

That’s right. Yellow perch are cannibals and will eat their own. Use the first one (or maybe the first smaller one) for bait to catch more in its own school.

Catch that first perch, especially a smaller one you don’t mind sacrificing, and fillet it out. Cut the fillet into strips that are 1 inch long and about a quarter inch wide, in a pennant shape and rig it up to your hook.

Other types of fish fillets also will often work.

Bluegill

These panfish may be fished as cut baits as described for perch, or if you can catch them small enough, they also can be great live baits for perch.

Bluegill have a naturally sweet meat, and as we’ll discuss more further down in this article, perch love sweets. (Woe is the life of a bluegill, as the bigger ones not only are good eating for humans but make excellent bait for larger fish including giant flathead catfish.)

Crappie

Considered in a similar orbit with yellow perch for their fine eating, crappie cut baits (or very small live crappie) are also a favorite on the perch diet.

White Bass

These are usually larger than yellow perch, but they can be used both for cut baits or, if you catch a very small one, as a live bait for perch.

White Perch

These are often predators of yellow perch, but if you catch a smaller one you can turn the tide and turn it into cut bait or use as a live bait.

Steelhead and Other Trout

While steelhead and their trout cousins are generally too large to use whole, they can be used as cut baits, including using the intestines, fins and eyes (see more on those below).

Fish Tails

That’s right, if you want your bait to look like a fish, start with a fish fin.

Simply cut off a piece of the tail fin, hook it up and drop it down to where the perch are. They’ll pretty much fight to get to it first. And that’s no fish tale (but it is a fish tail).

Yellow perch and some of the other species mentioned above work great for this.

Fish Intestines

“This is an old Canadian charter technique. Catch a fish, cut it open, cut out the intestine, cut it into 3 inch strips and attach to your hook. They last forever and are an excellent bait for all kind of fis,” Janowich said. We’ll take his word for it!

Fish Eyes

Fish eyes, and especially perch eyes, are a tasty offering if you’re a perch.

“Best thing is they’re free and present a ‘good-looking’ choice (sorry, couldn’t resist),” Janowich said.

Worms, Larvae and Other Crawlers

This category covers all sorts of critters in the worm and insect families that fish find irresistible.

Earthworms

The old reliable worm is among the top baits for yellow perch. For one, they simply work. Also, it’s hard to beat their availability, whether from your garden or the bait shop, they are easy to get for a day of fishing.

Nightcrawlers

Buy them at the store or, in some areas, catch them sticking out of their holes at night or hiding out under a piece of wood.

Also known as Canadian nightcrawlers, lob worms and dew worms, these are a premium bait for perch and other game fish.

They can be used whole or cut into pieces, depending on your needs.

There also are African and European nightcrawlers primarily available by purchasing, but the more common North American version is all you really need.

Red worms

Have a garden compost bin? You probably have these small worms, also known as red wigglers. You also can purchase them directly for bait or to start a colony.

They are a little challenging to hook up, but their active wiggling on the hook is nearly impossible for a perch to pass up.

Garden Worms

Whatever you can dig up in the yard or find under a rock at the lake will probably get the job done.

Some types don’t hold on a hook as well as others.

Larval Baits

Mealworms

These yellow critters are beetle larvae and make excellent perch, panfish and even trout bait.

You likely can buy them at a bait shop or pet store (they are sold as food for reptiles, aquarium fish and other pets). They also are fairly easy to raise at home, as I used to do. (Pro tip: the beetles are escape artists, so make sure you have a secure container.)

You’ll use smaller hooks with mealworms than you will with some baits, due to their size.

Waxworms

These are the larvae of a wax moth. Like mealworms, look for them both in bait and pet shops.

Ice fishermen often tip their lure hooks with these or similar live baits for added attraction.

Maggots

Yes, those larvae of the pesky house fly or similar insects. Bait suppliers will carry them in some areas because they are excellent for perch and several other types of game fish, from panfish to kokanee salmon.

Squats and pinkies are generally smaller maggots from other fly species and also work for perch bait. The “caster” form of a maggot, one that is turning into a pupae, also will do the job.

Leeches

These relatives of the earthworm come many species of their own, but leeches can be broadly categorized by blood-sucking and non-blood-sucking.

If you have a choice at the bait shop or while catching your own, Janowich highly recommends the non-bloodsucking variety, and not just because you don’t want them turning the tables and making you the bait.

The non-bloodsuckers feed on lots of things perch eat, which provides a more appetizing scent from the leech.

Janowich likes to hook them right on the sucker end to allow the rest of the leech to wriggle and writhe freely in the water. Perch won’t resist it.

Grasshoppers

Switching to baits found on land, grasshoppers are fantastic baits for perch as well as bluegill, trout and other fish that commonly eat insects.

Once the hoppers come out each year, they should be easy to net in grassy fields and similar areas.

On the hook, they wiggle enticingly, and perch can’t resist.

Crickets

Fish them like a grasshopper, with very similar results.

Compared to grasshoppers, crickets are more likely to be sold in bait shops and pet stores and might be available for longer periods.

But they are a little softer on the hook.

Imitation Baits

This section is about artificial baits made to look much like the real thing, and there are lots of options here because yellow perch will bite plenty of different things.

While purists like Janowich will nearly always stick with the real thing (and the real thing really works), imitation baits have their place.

Some anglers simply don’t want to fuss with live baits or baits that will spoil quickly. Having a jar or plastic bag full of artificial bait already in your tackle box has its appeal.

Note that I’m most experienced with the Berkley line of imitation baits, but try out the ones that work for you.

Artificial Minnows

Hate messing with the real thing … or have trouble finding them to catch or buy?

Artificial minnows along the lines of Berkley’s Gulp! minnows will often do the job, even if not quite as well as an actual live minnow.

We’ve seen some ads for products such as Magic Emerald Shine Minnows that might work similarly.

Artificial Worms

Berkley has a variety of products that fall under the category of fake worms, including PowerBait and Gulp! lines of earthworms, nightcrawlers and angle worms in natural colors as well as some brightly hued options among artificials.

But you certainly don’t have to limit yourself to Berkley products, especially in this category, as lots of companies make soft plastics in worm form.

Try scented artificial worms for increased catches.

Artificial Mealworms

Berkley’s Power Honey Worm is a good imitation bait closely resembling a mealworm, if you like to fish with smaller baits but can’t get the real wiggly kind.

Artificial Maggots

Grossed out by real maggots? Or maybe just don’t have them handy? A jar of Berkley Gulp! maggots can fill that need.

These are a very small bait and often used to tip the hook on a small lure such as spoon, spinner or jig for yellow perch as well as other game fish (including kokanee salmon where I live).

You’ll find some cheaper brands online as well, but we don’t have experience with them.

Artificial Waxworms

Not everyone makes this type as they are somewhat similar to mealworm and maggot baits, but Lunkerhunt has a few varieties that are available through various retailers.

Crappie Nibbles

These tiny pre-formed dough baits work great on the tips of lures.

How do we know? When we’re crappie fishing and put these on the tip of the jig hook, if there are yellow perch in the neighborhood, they won’t stay off the hook.

Even if you’re only after perch, try tipping the hook of a small jig with a Crappie Nibble and fishing it in schools of perch.

A few other companies make similar products as well.

From the Grocery Store

These fishing baits aren’t really intended as such, but they definitely will catch yellow perch. Fresh out of worms or minnows? Stop by the supermarket on your way to the lake.

Meat and Seafood

Hot Dogs

That’s right, “tube steaks” aren’t just for baseball games and campfires. Hot dogs will catch yellow perch in addition to some other game fish (catfish, anyone?). Tear or cut them into bait-sized pieces.

Some anglers suggest that the beef hot dogs, while popular at the ol’ ballgame, are less attractive to perch than those made of chicken or turkey, Janowich said.

Also consider, “smokeys” type of franks are tougher on the hook and produce even more oily scent to attract fish.

Bacon

It’s not just what brings you to breakfast, it’ll bring perch to your fishing hook. Use pieces of bacon raw for best results, as the oily scent it sends out will get the sleepiest perch up and at ‘em. It also will stay put on your hook longer.

Chicken Liver

These little organ meats are sold both in grocery stores and some bait shops. Yes, they are often thought of as catfish bait, but their scent will bring in the perch and other types of fish as well.

Shrimp and Prawns

Though typically saltwater species are sold for human consumption, shrimp and prawns are excellent bait for quite a few freshwater fish, including perch.

Cut them into fish-sized pieces, but leave the shell unpeeled when possible, as they’ll stay on the hook better if stabbed through the tough shell.

Anchovies

If you think of anchovies only as a pizza topping or perhaps as bait for larger fish like catfish and salmon, you might be missing the boat. Or at least the perch.

Cut these oily saltwater baitfish into pieces and the perch will lining up for a salty bite.

Sardines

You know those jokes about being packed together like sardines?

Well, these oily fish sold in tins have tons fish-attracting scent that a school of yellow perch won’t ignore. These are typically labeled Pacific wild caught.

On Other Store Aisles

Candy

That’s right, just like me, perch have a sweet tooth.

While it won’t last long if you hook a Hershey’s chocolate bar square on your hook, look for chewier textures that are more likely to last in the water.

Our suggestion: Try a candy gummy bear or other shape and you’re likely to land some sweet-loving perch. Heck, there are even gummy worms, so it was made to be!

Chewing Gum

What’s even tougher than a gummy candy? How about chewing gum.

Janowich suggests you chew the gum yourself just a minute to get it the right consistency, but leave most of the flavor in the gum before hooking on a piece.

The sweetness will attract the fish, and the rubbery texture will help keep it on your hook.

Golden Raisins

The light-colored types come in various colors and will catch the fish’s attention better than your standard black raisins.

Hook them in place and they will swell up a bit on the hook while releasing a sweet scent that appeals to perch.

Sweet Corn

Buy a small can of sweet corn. The kernels are sweet, brightly colored and tough enough to stay on the hook while attracting yellow perch.

Garlic

Not a sweet or a meat, but garlic is strongly scented and for whatever reason, fish like it. Why do you think so many artificial baits are scented with it? Try the real thing if you run out of your favorite standard bait.

The Weird

Shoe Laces

Uh-huh. You’ll have to cut them up, but make them look like a worm or a leech on the hook and suddenly a day on the boat when you left the bait at home is a day you’ll probably catch a perch or two.

And it really only has to work once, because you’ve already learned that fish fillets, guts and even eyes of that first catch will bring fish to your hook.

Rawhide

Even better than your typical shoe laces is rawhide, like the ones you tie up your boots with or other types of rawhide.

Strips of rawhide not only look like a tasty worm or eel, rawhide won’t rip off your hook easily. So, cowboy up and catch some perch!

Cigarette Butts

This is the first time on this website that we’ve suggested anglers hook on a piece of trash, but you’d be amazed at how well it can work at times. And they really stay on the hook.

“They stay on the hook for a long time and have been known to produce large quantities of perch,” Janowich told us. “I learned this trick by accident while on a fishing trip to Georgian Bay in Canada. For giggles, I baited one on a hook in shallow, weedy water and the perch went crazy.”

Acknowledgements

Northern Ohio resident Bill Janowich contributed many of the yellow perch fishing bait ideas in this article. Janowich is a life-long perch fisherman and has developed a perch-fishing kit he sells online at catchperch.com.

Do you have a favorite yellow perch bait we haven’t covered in this article? Leaving a comment below gives us the permission to add it to this article and/or publish it elsewhere. Comments must be approved. Leave a name as you would like it to be published and an email we can use to contact you if necessary. Your email address won’t ever be published.

When I was in my early 20s, I used to hang a couple dozen tree stands every summer. The work was tedious, hot and extremely time consuming. And I always felt like I was acting like an outfitter for myself and members of my hunting family at home. Sometimes these stands wouldn’t even get used in the fall, and I’d have to burn more time and energy pulling an unused stand in the winter. The entire process just seemed extremely inefficient. Now that I’m in my early 40s, I have even less time and energy than I did back then, and I desperately try not to waste either.

Now my family and I hunt much more mobile and hang 75 percent of our stands in real time.

Occasionally, I grow tired of passively sitting in a tree waiting for a big buck to come by for the ambush. Also, some conditions are just plain poor for a tree stand location, and the advantage of sitting aloft is lacking. In recent years, I’ve grown fond of switching up hunting techniques and giving the bucks in my area a different look. When I get to hankering for some action, grow bored with tree stand sitting or just need to do some in season speed scouting, my go-to method for chasing deer is old school still hunting.

Defining The Practice

I will preface the remainder of this piece with a statement of pure truth: I am by no means a master still hunter. I live on the prairie in southeastern Illinois, far removed from the big timber and rugged country where the method is used much more frequently. In my hunting youth, I read T. S. Van Dyke’s book from 1883, The Still Hunter. His tales and illustrations of sneaking up on whitetails on foot seemed like pure fiction to me. Around the same time, I read several books authored by Larry Benoit and his sons. They told spinning tales of tracking down monster Adirondack bucks on foot for miles, in the snow no less, before closing in on the animal for a kill shot with a rifle.

After digesting a pile of literature on the subject, I made up my mind. I was going to learn how to still hunt.

I’ve always thought the term still hunting was a bit of a misnomer, because you’re on foot and you’re moving very slowly. Still hunting is the simplest form of active pursuit there is, a process by which one literally creeps through a whitetail’s habitat on foot as slowly and methodically as possible. The goal is quite simple: use all your senses to see, hear and sometimes even smell the whitetail before they return the favor. But that’s only the first part of the still hunting equation, for the hard part is pulling off the shot at eye level. For my tastes, still hunting lends itself to be a fantastic method for the deer hunter with a firearm tag in his or her pocket. But, given the proper conditions, an archer can also use the still hunt. Let’s study these elements in detail.

The Proper Conditions

In order to up your odds of still hunting success, you need to have the proper conditions. In my opinion, a calm, sunny and dry day is just terrible for the task.

I want damp conditions to allow for quiet footfall in the timber on a calm day. Also, dry leaf litter under foot is less apt to spook game if the wind is up and covering your sound signature. Noise mitigation is paramount to the still hunter.

On sunny days, keeping the sun at your back and slowly working through the shadows is a fine way to get the drop on bedded deer. But cloudy days seem to make for better overall visibility. Keep in mind that shadows can help hide the human form, but they can also hide the whitetail just as easily.

Rain and snow can make for some excellent conditions to still hunt. However, if the ground is too wet and muddy, it can throw off your balance and make for a noisy boot slurping through the muck.

Falling snow is my absolute favorite helper. While I’m wearing some white snow camo and easing through whitetail habitat on foot, the fresh powder helps dampen one’s noise signature and ups the odds of catching a big buck on his feet.

The terrain and undergrowth also need to be considered before attempting a still hunt. Too many snags make for difficulty in slow navigation where minimal movement is desired. Terrain that is pancake flat sounds advantageous, but it is not, nor is extremely sharp terrain. Flat ground gives game the advantage of seeing you way before you see them, and aggressive contours take your mind off the task of spotting game, and you become consumed with not slipping and falling. Gentle rolling timber or hill country is a still hunter’s best ally. Terrain should be diverse enough to allow for camouflaging hunter movement, but not so sharp it is extremely hard to traverse.

A word needs to be mentioned about the condition of the still hunter themself. Being in sound physical condition with a strong core, legs and feet is a good idea. If I still hunt for a few days straight, my hips and calves get tired and sore, and I am less balanced on the trail of game. Physical form aside, by far the most important condition of any still hunter is a soundness of his or her mind. On a still hunt, you must try and remain focused and adaptable. If your mind is on work, bills, your phone or other distractions beyond the woods, you will fail in this endeavor.

When I begin a still hunt, I try to mentally check out of day-to-day life and check into the metaphysical “force” of the hunt. I try to be hyperaware of the task at hand. If I can control my mind, I can control my pace. And if I control my breathing, I control my mind. Speedy travel and a racing mind are poison to the still hunter looking to bag a buck on foot. The mental aspect of still hunting cannot be overstated. If you have a slow foot and a calm mind, you can shoot any deer in North America on a still hunt given the proper conditions.

Still Hunting Gear

A minimalist approach to still hunting is usually a good idea when choosing essential gear. I prefer to still hunt with a short-barrel firearm with a 2-7X scope, or open sights, and a quality sling. A short barrel seems to balance in both hands well, and it wields nicely while sneaking through the timber. The scope is almost exclusively on 2X, and I find it much easier to zoom up in power to spot a deer at ground level than it is to have an encounter and need to quickly zoom down in a hurry up close.

Still hunting with archery gear is challenging, but it can be done. I use a short axle-to-axle Mathews with their quick detach quiver. Personally, I hate carrying a bow during a still hunt. And mine resides on my back attached to a backpack with a device called a Bow Spider. This allows me to quickly deploy it when action calls for it, but it also allows for more balanced and streamlined travel.

As far as other essentials, I like to still hunt with a Guide Series chest harness from Vortex. It houses a pair of their 8×42 binoculars, a range finder, a wind checker and my knife and tags. This leaves no gear in my pants to snag on brush and makes it easy to get to.

For camouflage, I prefer neutral tones of tan, brown, gray or olive green, opposed to commercially available patterns meant for tree stand hunts.

In the footwear department, I despise rubber knee-high boots for still hunting. They are helpful in the mud, but I like a nimble, lace-up boot like a Danner Pronghorn. If conditions call for ultimate silence, sometimes I go barefoot or with a thick wool sock. Then I’ll attach my boots to the back of my binocular chest rig with rubber coated wire gear ties. This fall, I plan on adding a pair of Silent Pursuit brand moccasins to the list. Ultimately, still hunting gear needs to be simple, functional, easy to access and silent.

Still Hunting Techniques

Still hunting your way to a big buck may sound simple, but it is quite challenging. Once you’ve got the proper conditions and gear, it’s time to start slipping through whitetail habitat. Whenever possible, the approach should begin with the wind in your face and the sun at your back or off to one shoulder. I tend to break up my approach in 10- or 20-yard increments, and I slowly creep forward step by step to the next landmark to stop beside. But these are not ordinary walking steps. I like to “fox walk” with a stride about half as long as a normal walking stride. The “fox walk” is a three-cadence stride, where you raise your knee high above the underbrush to step forward, then gently place the ball of the foot to the ground, and finally roll your foot to place it flat. Repeat the process with short strides from your trailing leg and feel the ground below your feet for obstacles as you go.

The process is slow and tedious, and it takes a lot of focus and balance. However, with enough practice, you can effectively sneak through the timber.

Spotting bedded whitetails can be immensely tough, and the reason for the snail’s pace is to take the time to visualize everything. Looking for an antler tine in the brush or the flicker of a white tail can be a giveaway for a bedded buck’s location. You must be as thorough as possible, scanning the terrain and habitat for sign of prey. Use the terrain to your advantage and slowly peek over the next ridge or down into the next bottom.

If you can get it, snow helps the still hunter tremendously. It more easily allows you to cut a big set of buck tracks and stalk their maker, creating a very intense hunting experience. Sometimes, I’ll stop and rest a spell in some natural cover and take a mental break. I’ve found this helps restore my vigilance when I continue. For added versatility, I’ve taken to still hunting with a stand on my back during the rut in somewhat of a hybrid combination.

Though I never climb very high on these hunts, one climbing stick or a couple screw-in steps can get me six to eight feet high up in natural cover very quickly. This method is a ton of fun when big bucks are chasing does all over, and I like to chase them too!

My Successes and Failures

Before everyone reading this figures me as some authority on still hunting whitetails, I assure you I’m not. Though I know how to do it, I fail more than I succeed. No doubt, when practicing this ancient method, I spook deer way more often than I kill. But like most things in whitetail hunting, it is the few and far between successes that make up for the struggle.

During muzzleloader season in 2013, I watched a big buck and a few does feed in a morning snowstorm. Then they headed into a small patch of cover to bed for the day. Around noon, I put some snow camo on and still hunted their way. Not an hour into the hunt, I peeked over a ridge to find the group bedded in a bottom out of the wind. I rested my smoke pole on a small tree and killed the buck when he stood from his bed.

In 2016, I still hunted my way through the timber on a sunny day during the rut, and I found an old target buck tending to a doe in a brush pile. He finally gave me a shot, but my arrow missed high. During the following year’s gun season, I took off on foot for that same buck in a drizzling rain. By luck, I found him in the back of a cattle pasture, down in a valley out of the weather and made my play. He spotted me in my final approach and sprang from the cover, giving me a short window to make a shot. And I dropped him before he fled. I knew the buck to be old, but to my surprise, using tooth cementum analysis, he was aged at 9 1/2 years old!

If I never live to shoot another trophy buck on a still hunt again, tagging an ancient whitetail with the most primitive of hunting methods is a feat I assume I will never top! Hopefully, you can apply this tactic with success, too.

Are you one of those people who enjoy the taste of beef in their food? If you are, you will undoubtedly develop a taste for gamey meat. Many people who have tried gamey meat have developed an addiction to it. But if you haven’t had the chance to try these exotic meats, you’re probably wondering what all the fuss is about and what gamey tastes like.

The taste of gamey meat has an overabundance of meaty flavor distinct from regular meat. Gamey meat has a more wild flavor than regular meat. Some people despise the gamey flavor, while others become hooked to it. However, your personal preferences will affect your perception of gamey meat.

You can use gamey meat in various dishes if cooked properly, from slow-cooked steak to burgers and pasta dishes. It has a very exciting flavor and is also very beneficial for your health. So we can say that gamey meat is, all in all, an exciting thing to try out.

Now that you’ve read a little about gamey meat, you must be eager to know more about it. In this article, we will go a little deeper into knowing what gamey meat is.

We will be discussing what exactly gamey meat is, what gamey tastes like its health benefits, and much more. So without further ado, let’s get right into it!

What Does The Term Gamey Means?

Gamey is a word you must’ve heard at least once in your life. People often say this word to express delight or distress, while eating a piece of cooked meat. Have you ever wondered what exactly they are referring to? Well, I have, so you don’t have to!

Gamey is a word used to express a strong meaty taste. It particularly refers to the wild smell the meat has when it is slightly spoiled. Mostly wild animals’ meat has a gamey taste. However, if spoiled slightly, some farm-fed animal meat can produce a similar gamey taste.

So, the next time you hear the word “gamey”, don’t restrict your thoughts to wild meat alone. It could mean any meat that has produced the taste of wild meat. Any meat can have a gamey taste, but not all meat is gamey meat. Then what exactly is Gamey meat?

What Is Gamey Meat?

Gamey meat is a term that refers to all those meats that taste very different from the standard farm-bought meats. Gamey meat is not tastier than normal meat, but neither is it bad.

But considering its exotic, wild taste, gamey meat is a must-try for you if you love to experience new flavors. There’s a high chance that you also will become a gamey meat addict! You might never know!

If you love watching cookery shows, you might have heard judges say that a particular dish has a very gamey taste. Gamey is a fascinating word for expressing flavors. Gamey meat refers to the meat of those animals that are not farm-bred. It usually refers to the meat of wild animals like deer, rabbits, elk, moose, bison, and more, which are inhabitants of the forest.

Gammy meat often has an intense smell and a different earthy flavor than normal meat. Gamey meat has a slightly tangy, sour taste and a lean texture. The flavor and texture of gamey meat have a lot to do with the wild animal’s diet.

What Does Gamey Meat Taste Like?

Next time you have a chance to grab that piece of gamey meat steak, don’t think twice! Why? Because when you are done reading this article, you will have a fair idea of what gamey tastes like and whether you will like it or not!

The taste and scent of gamey flesh are very strong. The gamey meat is slightly acidic and metallic in taste. Gamey meat has a taste almost identical to that of a cow or lamb’s liver or heart. The taste of flesh differs from one animal to the next.

This flavor is derived from the wild grass that these animals eat in the forest. It has a nutty, burned aroma that some people may dislike.

The texture of gamey meat is soft and juicy. Gamey meat tastes like a rotting mass of beef. It has a very lean texture and a strong flavor. With its taste and flavor, Gamey meat is something you may try on your menu to break up the monotony of chicken and lamb meals.

Gamey meat, however, is not for everyone due to its peculiar flavor and pungent odor. However, there’s no going back to regular meat once you’ve tried it!

7 Types of Gamey Meats And Their Taste

As Will says in Friends, “You can eat and eat and eat..and nothing can fill in that vacuum”! So next time, make some space for gamey meat on your menu. When we say gamey meat, it includes a variety of meats.

Whatever you like, be it tender and juicy meat or rough and chewy, gamey meat has something for you. Here are some popular gamey meat types you should give a try!

The 7 different types of gamey meats are:

1. Deer
2. Elk
3. Antelope
4. Wild Duck
5. Rabbit
6. Turkey
7. Wild Duck

1. Deer

Deer is a popular and delicious gamey meat. There are plenty of reasons for the popularity of deer meat. One of them is its availability. Whether it’s spring or winter, hunters are too keen to hunt this animal.

Deer has very lean meat, and hence it is very important to be cautious about not overcooking it. To get the perfect gamey taste, it would be best to serve deer steak medium-rare.

Deer meat has a lot of health benefits as well. Deer meat is way too low in fat content compared to store-bought beef. Deer meat is also rich in zinc and iron.

2. Elk

Elk is another popular gamey meat. If you’re wondering what elk gamey tastes like, I’d say it has a very similar flavor profile to beef.

Elk meat is much cleaner than deer meat. However, it is more on the sweet side. So if you want to delve a little into an adventurous side, try having elk next time. Like deer, elk meat is lower in fat and high in protein when compared to beef.

3. Antelope

An antelope is one of the healthiest of all meats. It is tender in texture and sweet in taste. If you want to know what the most delicious gamey taste is, try antelope meat.

Antelope is also known as “speed goat.” It is usually found in the mountain regions of the United States.Antelope meat is extremely popular for its taste and nutritional value.

While cooking antelope, one thing to keep in mind is that it is tougher than most gamey meats. So you have to be very cautious about cooking it to perfection before serving it.

Like most gamey meat, antelope’s flesh is also lean. It is low in fat and high in protein. While cooking antelope, take extra care to debone the meat as soon as possible to avoid spoiling the meat.

4. Wild Duck

Wild duck’s gamey meat tastes like chicken, with a bit more blandness to it. Even though the wild duck is a lovely animal, its taste isn’t very likable. If you ever come across a gamey meat expert and ask them what their least favorite gamey flavor is, you’re probably going to get duck as your answer.

This underappreciated gamey meat is high in a variety of vitamins and nutrients. While cooking duck, one has to cook it until it is medium-rare. Anything less or more will make it bland and rubbery.

5. Rabbit

Rabbit has very soft and juicy meat. Rabbit meat almost tastes like chicken but with a sweet gamey taste.

The rabbit is certainly adorable! There’s no doubt about it. However, after tasting rabbit gamey, you’re likely to think it’s more delectable than cute. Like other gamey meats, Rabbit meat is low in fat (the lowest of all, to be exact) and high in nutrients.

Rabbit meat is quite lean. Rabbits are used in a variety of cuisines. Rabbit meat, on the other hand, is the finest roasted.

Now that you know what its meat tastes like, it’s entirely up to you whether to pet or cook a rabbit the next time you see one!

6. Turkey

Wild turkey gamey tastes very similar to normal store-bought turkey meat. But it has more flavor and is rougher in texture than normal turkey meat. Turkey has very lean meat and less fat than most gamey meats.

When compared to store-bought turkey, it is low in sodium content. Low sodium means better kidney functioning and a low risk of heart disease.

While cooking a turkey, make sure to marinate it with water, sugar, salt, onion, and lemon juice at least a day before cooking. The marination will make your turkey juicier and tender. So, try a wild turkey for Thanksgiving this time around!

7. Wild Pig

Wild pig gamey tastes like normal pork but with more nutrients and less fat. Who doesn’t like slow-cooked pork? If you love pork, you must try wild pork. Also, in the United States, wild pigs have been considered an invasive species, so it won’t be hard to get one of these.

While cooking wild pig, be sure to clean it thoroughly. Marinating the meat a day ahead makes it tastier and juicier. Pineapple juice is an excellent choice if you want some new flavors for marination. It will give a distinct flavor and break down the enzymes present in the meat to make it more tender and juicy.

How To Store And Cook Gamey Meat

As we have talked enough about what gamey tastes like, now we can talk about storing and cooking it. Since gamey meat is different from normal meat, before cooking it for your favorite dish, there are many things to consider.

1. Cleaning

The first thing we have to address after getting gamey meat is cleaning it. It is advisable to dress your meat immediately after hunting to prevent it from getting any bacterial infections. Take extra care in removing the skin completely as wild animals have so much fur.

After proper cleaning, refrigerate gamey meat for the next three to seven days. Refrigeration after cleaning the meat will make it softer and easier to cook. Since gamey meat is sold in a large quantity, it is usually frozen for use in the future.

2. Soaking

Once you have decided to cook the gamey meat, the first step should be soaking it. Cut the meat into equal parts and put it into a bowl. Use buttermilk or any other traditional marinade to soak the meat overnight.

Whatever gamey meat you are cooking, you must marinate it for at least 3-4 hours to get the perfect flavor. The meat is rougher than normal meat, so the more time you give for marination, the better it tastes.

Things to remember before cooking gamey meat

1. Bring your meat to room temperature before cooking.
2. Use a meat thermometer while cooking the gamey meat. Checking the temperature while cooking will help you to prevent it from overcooking. If the gamey meat gets overcooked, it will become extremely dry and chewy to eat.
3. Cook over medium heat. If you cook the meat at low heat, it will lose its juiciness and make it taste bland.
4. After cooking, let the gamey meat rest for a few minutes. Resting the meat will help with settling the flavor and help you get the best gamey meat taste.
5. Remove the fat as much as possible. Fat plays an important part in giving an earthy flavor to the meat. So, if you don’t want the gamey taste to be overpowering, you can remove the fat before or after cooking. However, it is advisable to keep a little fat with the meat as it carries a lot of flavors.

Health Advantages of Gamey Meat

Now that you have a bit of knowledge about what gamey tastes like, I will be moving ahead to explain to you the health benefits gamey meat has to offer. If you are a meat lover like me, you need to read this section because gamey meat is delicious and nutritious!

People are highly concerned about their health in the present era. The market has capitalized on this worry by adding extra labels for animal foods such as “antibiotic-free,” “hormone-free,” “grass-fed,” and so on.

Before purchasing a chicken, beef, or pork product, we must carefully examine several labels. Even if we sift everything thoroughly, there’s a good chance we won’t find the proper one.

You don’t have to worry about all these things with gamey meat. Gamey meat is the healthiest type of meat you can eat because it comes from the wild.

1. Less fat and more protein.

In the above section, we discussed how gamey meat has more protein, nutrients, and less fat when compared to other animal meat. Therefore, if you are concerned about calorie count and nutrients, you could replace normal meat with gamey meat.

In this way, you could increase your protein intake without compromising on its taste.

2. Leaner Meats

People in some nations enjoy the meat of animals or fish that have been in motion. Such animals are said to be the healthiest and tastiest. If this is the case, gamey meat is the best meat available.

Since the animals were constantly in motion, their flesh would be thinner than farm-fed animals. For example, making bacon from a wild pig is tough since it has considerably less fat than farm-fed pigs. If you prefer a more flavorful dish, try wild pig steak instead.

3. No Hormones, No Antibiotics

Hormones and antibiotic intake are currently one of the most concerning topics. For a long time, meat has been an important element of our diet. However, meat intake has begun to cause a wide range of ailments due to increased hormone injections and antibiotic use. PCOD in girls, hormonal instability, and reduced immunity are all examples of the same.

So, what are your options? I recommend incorporating gamey meats at least once in your diet per week. Gamey meat comes from wild animals who have lived their lives on a solely wild diet. Their meat is 100% organic and pure, even though it tastes different.

4. No risk of illness.

Most animals that are farm-fed live in extremely unhygienic conditions. They have restricted movement and have a high chance of illness. Even though wild animals could also have diseases, they will most likely be healthier than farm-fed animals.

If not cooked properly, there is a high chance that these bacteria could get into us. Therefore, it is important to clean and cook meat properly.

How To Reduce The Gamey Taste?

Now that we have talked about gamey meat, what it tastes like, and its health benefits, there is an increased chance you might want to have it. But what if you don’t like the gamey taste? In that case, you should read our tips and tricks to remove the gamey taste of your favorite meat!

1. Begin Proper Cleaning

As soon as you receive your gamey meat, begin cleaning it.Remove its skin and the gut portion. This will slow down the rotting enzymes. Next, start deboning the meat as soon as you can. Dissociating the meat from bone and fat will make your meat taste less gamey.

Also, if possible, freeze the gamey meat for at least three hours of hunting. Gamey flavor heavily depends on the rotting state of the meat and its fat content. If you can decrease these two reasons, we can fairly decrease the gamey taste of the meat.

2. Soak The Meat

Once you clean it, then soak it before freezing. Soaking is one way to remove the blood taste from the meat. If you ask a regular hunter, they’ll have many suggestions for you. Saltwater, lemon water, buttermilk, etc., are some of our suggestions.

3. Freeze It

When it comes to freezing, we need to put a little effort into packing meat separately rather than putting a bunch of it into the same container. Perfectly soaked and frozen gamey meat stays for a very long period of time.

4. Perfect Cooking

When it comes to cooking gamey meat, one should cook it to perfection. Gamey meat is lean and should be cooked medium-rare. If over-cooked, gamey meat will have a leathery texture and an unpleasant taste.

5. Use Marinades

The marinade is the magic wand to vanish the gamey taste from your food. Even if you have done all the above steps, the chances are high that the gamey taste remains. In such a situation, you should rely on good marinades.

The more time you put into your meat for marination, the better it will be. However, it is advisable to marinate the gamey meat at least three to four hours before cooking.

Conclusion

Gamey meat has a tart-like taste and an overall meaty flavor. It has an exclusive flavor and aroma of its own, making it different from normal meat. It also has a multitude of health benefits. Gamey meat is exciting meat to try if you are someone who loves to try things out of the box. So, the next time you think about trying something new, try gamey meat! Whether you like it or not, you’ll never regret trying it.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)