When we talk about 40mm, it refers to the objective lens size of your scope.
This lens size can give you a smaller, lighter, and more compact scope tube diameter for your rifle.
I personally like using a 40mm scope because a light transmission at this scope size is already good, especially in brighter contact.
In fact, I can make its performance even better by adding a high-quality glass coating.
You can commonly see a scope with the 40mm objective with the following magnification ranges:
3-9x
9-25x
4.5-14x
4-12x
50mm Scope Overview
I used to think that a larger objective lens meant clearer and sharper target images.
However, even a smaller objective lens with better glass quality and coating can beat a bigger one!
So, having a bigger lens diameter does not necessarily mean an immediate edge.
A 50mm objective lens already lets me see a target BRIGHTLY in a low-light environment.
It also provides good and bright image quality even at a longer distance.
In my experience, a 50mm scope has helped me ACE every shot in all my different shooting activities.
Just like the 40mm, you must complement the advantage of a 50mm scope lens with a high-quality lens coating and glasses.
40mm vs. 50mm: What’s the Difference?
You will not know the difference between a 40mm vs. 50mm lens if you don’t look through the scope’s ocular glass lens.
I used to think bigger is always better regarding objective lenses.
But the comparison between the two revolves around which one can give my naked eye BETTER image quality.
Everyone views their optics differently, and it does NOT depend on the size alone.
The scope glass quality can also help provide better image sharpness and brightness, even if the scope size is smaller.
I’ll compare these scope sizes in different essential categories in the scope world.
Intended Use
The kind of shooting or hunting you will do is important!
For example, if you plan to hunt in the day when light won’t be a problem, a smaller objective lens will suffice.
On the other hand, low-light hunting situations require a larger objective lens to let enough light enter the scope.
WINNER: It depends.
Size
Obviously, 40mm is a smaller objective lens than 50mm.
Thus, it provides you with a lower mount profile for better and more comfortable aiming.
Meanwhile, the 50mm objective lens gathers MORE light and gives additional adjustment clicks for shooters.
However, eye alignment and aiming comfortability might be an ISSUE for some of them.
WINNER: 40mm
Weight Consideration
Since a 40mm objective lens is smaller, it is LIGHTER than a 50mm one.
It only adds a little to your rifle’s total weight.
I preferred moving around with the 40mm scope than the 50mm since I didn’t have to carry too much weight.
A wider objective lens like the 50mm gives EXTRA weight to your rifle scope. Thus, I would not recommend it in this situation.
WINNER: 40mm
Magnification Power
With high-quality glass and coating, a 50mm objective lens diameter can already give you a bright image.
A wide objective lens no longer requires much magnification.
This is especially when you need better sight at a distance in LOW LIGHT. Thus, having a 50mm objective lens is better for a long-range scope.
It is a different story for a 40mm scope lens.
You must mostly use magnification to get a better image quality, especially when aiming at darker times and locations.
WINNER: 50mm
Exit Pupil
A LARGER exit pupil size makes BRIGHTER images.
The exit pupil is the diameter of light that passes through the objective lens to your eyes. It is placed at the back of the eye relief, the closest to the human pupil.
Thus, a 50mm scope has a bigger objective lens, therefore, a bigger exit pupil size than the 40mm one.
You can have brighter images in this manner because MORE light transmission via a larger exit pupil size gets to your naked eye.
WINNER: 50mm
Resolution
Unlike the exit pupil, the resolution does not solely depend on the size of objective lenses.
A bigger objective size is useless if your scope has bad lens coating and glass quality.
The 50mm diameter lens for rifle scopes already provides a brighter image than the 40mm.
But, the latter can still offer a better-aiming image if it is higher in quality than the former.
WINNER: 50mm
Frequently Asked Questions
You may still be curious about this scope size comparison and other relevant information. Check out more details on some common questions below.
Is a 50mm Scope Better Than 40mm?
A 50mm scope for rifles is better than a 40mm one, but not in all contexts.
If both have similar accessories and parts, the 50mm rifle scope lens is surely better.
But, it is NOT ALWAYS the case if the 40mm objective lens has better accompaniments.
Regardless of size, your scope will reflect light and cause lens flare if it has a low coating and glass quality.
Thus, you should gather good parts for your scope and make it a COMPLETE PACKAGE.
It may cost more, but it is worth it!
What Scope Is Best for 50 Yards?
The 40mm diameter lens is better for close-distance shooting, like at 50 yards.
A 50 mm diameter lens is suitable for wider field shooting and has more features. However, it does not necessarily mean it is also good at any distance.
Short-range shooting requires smaller guns, and smaller lenses are more compatible.
The 40mm diameter lens is also light for fast movements, aiming, and shooting at a close distance.
Is a 3-9×40 Scope Good for Hunting?
Yes! I have a lot of scopes with this magnification and diameter, and my hunting is always efficient!
This scope model gives you a sense of versatility for short-range and longer-distance shooting.
It provides accurate short-range shots of small to medium-sized animals.
The same applies to lesser accuracy issues in longer-distance firing due to its high magnification range.
So yes, a 3-9×40 scope is GREAT for your hunting activities!
Final Verdict: Which Is Better to Use?
If you look at these categories, there is not much difference.
But in similar parts like the glass and coating quality, I have to give the win to the 50mm objective lens over the 40mm.
Thus, this gives you more choices in buying rifle scopes.
Do you want to choose a 40mm and add good rifle scope parts? You may want to maximize a 50mm diameter advantage with the best available parts.
Conclusion
You should not focus much on the bigger objective diameter size but on the other accessories in your rifle scope as well!
There are MORE factors to be considered, not just the lens size of rifle scopes.
A 50mm is greater than a 40mm as the former has more advantages.
Yet, gearing the latter with better parts like good lens coating and glass quality can still take the win.
In other words, you should gather the best parts to have the best rifle scope.
When I was an up-and-coming hunter, I had a feeling something was missing from my elk-hunting arsenal.
That’s when I realized that I needed a quality hunting suit! And I was fortunate enough to find the HECS hunting suit.
I’ve used this suit several times to stay hidden and defeat an animal’s sixth sense during a hunt! However, many people question its actual performance when hunting.
This article will discuss the suit’s overall mechanism, performance, and results from actual field tests.
I’ll provide you with a thorough explanation and investigation to help you decide if it really works and if it actually is worth your investment.
A HECS hunting suit can be worn as an outlet or undergarment. It’s available in 2 versions – Mossy Oak Country and Realtree Xtra.
There are 10 sizes to choose from:
XX-Small
X-Small
Small
Medium
Large
X-Large
XX-Large
XXX-Large
4X-Large
5X-Large
For the detailed measurement of each size, please visit HECS Stealthscreen’s official website.
The HECS hunting suit includes pants, a shirt, and a head net.
The pants can cover everything from the ankle to the waist. The shirt goes from the neck to the wrists and then overlaps with the pants.
The head net goes under the hat and overlaps the shirt.
I love the inclusion of stretch-fit gloves, socks, and a hat to COMPLETELY conceal me from head to toe!
You can also consider having some good hunting boots that go well with this suit.
How Does The HECS Hunting Suit Work?
Science has found that animals can pick up on minor electrical changes in their environment.
Through heart race and muscle movement, humans create electrical fields that alert the animals.
True enough, I was eyeing a deer once, and my heart started pumping as soon it looked my way. The adrenaline caused it run away and I missed the shot.
When the animals get close, they can sense another living being.
That’s when their other senses are alerted and they run away from you before you can approach them.
The HECS (Human Energy Concealment System) hunting suit comes in as a solution to this.
This video shows this perfectly:
You can read on progressive reloading press to learn more about this.
If you look closely at the inside of the suit, you will see an electrically conductive carbon yarn that is woven in a grid pattern.
The HECS hunting suit applies the Faraday Cage Principle, a concept that centers on controlling electromagnetic fields.
Thus, the HECS hunting suit can be shaped to block the electrical energy that is created by our body.
And by blocking the electrical fields, the suit prevents you from being noticed and recognized by target animals.
Does the HECS Hunting Suit Really Work?
BUYING OPTIONS: » Check Price on Amazon «
The short answer is YES! I’ve gone on several hunts with this suit remained undetected pretty much the whole time!
But you might want to know to what extent? I’ll discuss the pros and cons of its performance below.
Pros
Majority of people who’ve used the HECS hunting suit have reported positive reviews.
I’ve even been able to approach animals closer than ever!
Most people were skeptical about its actual effectiveness. Their doubts were soon gone the moment they wore the suit and saw impressive results.
The HECS hunting suit is most commonly praised for its usefulness with whitetail hunting, making it much easier.
It also offers comfort when worn. It’s lightweight and breathable because it’s made from HECS Stealthscreen fabric.
It’s better and more comfy than any shirt-pants combo I’ve ever tried.
This material consists of more than 85% polyester and is machine-washable, making it easy to pack for hunting trips.
Cons
My main issue with the suit was the price. It averages around $150 which may be quite expensive to some users.
I tend to switch to other camouflage suits that offer more affordability.
There are also some negative reviews on the size and the thickness of the suit. I found the shirt to be paper thin.
I should’ve expected that this suit was the WRONG choice to wear during winter.
I think these negative comments were probably brought about by overly high expectations for the suit.
As mentioned, the HECS hunting suit prevents animals from recognizing a hunter’s presence.
That doesn’t necessarily mean that the HECS hunting suit will blind the target completely.
Because of controversy on its performance, the HECS hunting suit has suffered from a great amount of skepticism.
In fact, even though there are a lot of positive reviews, the handful of negative reviews on the HECS hunting suit have put people off.
As a bonus, here’s a video to help you see the HECS suit in action:
HECS Hunting Suit Field Tests
Many field tests can be seen on YouTube. Most of them are done with bears, deer, turkeys, geese, and even small birds.
What’s common among all of them is that the HECS hunting suit actually makes a big difference when used for hunting mid-sized game animals.
Though there is also controversy over the field test videos, there are many praises for the HECS hunting suit that you can easily find on Amazon or eBay.
I found it to be most effective for hunting the fields for turkeys and geese.
Can You Still Hunt Successfully Without The Suit?
Yes, it’s still possible to hunt successfully even without the suit.
If I’m being completely honest, you’ll still be able to hunt well even if you never try the HECS Hunting Suit!
All that the suit does is enhance your stealth and discretion during a hunt. It won’t really completely shield you from the senses of your prey.
But what the HECS Hunting Suit does offer is added immediate concealment.
Though you might not ever be able to fool the noses and ears of the animals, you can still fool their eyes.
Therefore, I still highly recommend the use of this suit because it will increase your chances of scoring game and also speed up the hunting process.
How Does It Compare to Other Hunting Suits?
I could only think of two other hunting suits that act similarly to the HECS; the ScentBlocker and the New View hunting suits.
Both these options work similarly to the HECS in that they keep you hidden from your prey, which is a necessity.
How the ScentBlocker, as the name suggests, prevents deer and other animals from picking up your scent.
Meanwhile, the New View does what the HECS failed to do, which is keep me warm with its thicker, fleece lining.
These two products are great, but they do not compare to the unique technology of the HECS.
Conclusion
Human’s heartbeats give out much stronger electrical signals to animals than any other organ or biological process does.
The HECS Hunting Suit is designed to make the sound of your heartbeats less noticeable to your prey.
They’ll also help you blend in with the environment better!
I can therefore conclude that yes, the HECS Hunting Suit really does work well for hunting animals. A purchase will definitely be worth it!
FINAL HUNTING TIP: You can check out our Guide on Essential Hunting Gear for First-Timers to make sure you have everything you’ll need for a good hunting session.
This post was last updated on October 20th, 2021 at 08:23 pm
So, can you eat porcupine meat? Heck yes you can eat porcupine! In hard times and survival situations, perhaps porcupine meat is one of the best available food options, especially if you can’t find any edible plants. If You’ve ever been curious about the quality and flavor of porcupine meat, you don’t have to wonder any longer. I can tell you that it is very delicious and tastes a lot like chicken! I filmed the following catch and cook porcupine video a couple years ago and overall I don’t regret any part of the experience one bit. I slow roasted it over a campfire with a hand made bushcraft rotisserie. Since porcupines are vegetarians it is my understanding that you can safely eat the meat raw without too much worry of parasites. The meat on a porcupine has a light scent of pine, so compared to many other meats, I found it to be quite pleasant and not tough at all.
The quills of a porcupine are very dirty and will almost surely cause you an infection if you are stuck. It is important when skinning these animals that you do it in a place where you won’t be walking around barefoot or have pets walking in the area. Cleaning a porcupine is about what you’d expect. You need to use a little extra caution to take the skin off, but otherwise it’s just like skinning anything else.
Eating porcupine is not very common these days in the US, but once upon a time they were eaten regularly. They are still considered a regular food source in some parts of the world.
How Do I Catch a Porcupine?
The best way to prepare porcupine meat is by roasting, but an open fire isn’t always available. If this is the case, you can use a Dutch oven to boil the meat over a low flame very slowly for a couple of hours or until tender. Be sure that all bones are removed from the meat before broiling.
Porcupine are slow moving animals so if they are on the ground you can get them with a big stick or a club. If they are in the trees they can be humanely hunted with a .22 caliber rifle. There are porcupine in almost all of Canada and throughout the Northern and Western US all the way down to Mexico. Check out the following catch and cook porcupine video for more in depth explanation on how to handle porcupine.
Where to Catch Porcupine
Before you kill a porcupine, be sure that you are in an area where they are plentiful. It would be very sad if you accidentally hunted one of these fine creatures and knew that the meat was bad for your health so you decided not to eat it even though you had gone to a lot of trouble and risk to catch it.
Be sure that the porcupine is healthy by checking the skin around its eyes. If they are clear and free of any discharge, then you can be pretty certain that your prey is good to eat.
When hunting for porcupines, look in clearings or forest edges near heavy vegetation. They can also be found in open woods, along fencerows, at the edge of fields where shrubs are present, and anywhere else where they have plenty of cover to hide in.
Remember that porcupines are slow-moving creatures so once you have caught one or more, it is easy enough to kill them with a stick or other blunt object before skinning them.
The Benefits of Eating Porcupine Meat
First off, it is very high in protein and low in fat. The meat also contains thiamin (vitamin B), which keeps the nervous system healthy; niacin (B-3), which promotes good circulation; iron, which produces the red blood cells that carry oxygen to the cells; and phosphorus, calcium, sodium, and potassium, which are all essential for maintaining good health. Porcupine meat is also an excellent source of zinc which helps to keep the immune system working properly.
Porcupines are found throughout North America and Europe. Their meat can be used as a substitute for beef, pork, or veal in soups, stews, and casseroles. You can even use it in place of rabbit or venison when making kabobs. You may not be used to eating porcupine meat, but once you try it, I think you’ll like it and see how healthy it is for you as well.
So now that we know that yes, you can eat porcupine meat, let’s find out where to get it.
In Conclusion – Can You Eat Porcupine Meat?
Can you eat porcupine meat? Definitely! Porcupine meat is high in protein and low in fat, making it an excellent substitute for beef or pork. You can use porcupine to replace rabbit or venison when cooking kabobs – the list of benefits goes on and on! If you’re looking to try something new with your next dinner party menu, this may be just what you are looking for. What’s more? Porcupine meat has many health benefits including being a good source of iron which helps keep red blood cells healthy! Hopefully this article tells you all you need to know about porcupine meat!
Classic lever-action deer rifles are undoubtedly cool. My first was a Winchester Model 94AE XTR in .30-30 Winchester, that timeless rimmed cartridge that has accounted for innumerable amounts of game. It was a gift from my father for my 15th birthday, and—at least to the young man who received it—marked a passage into manhood. I’d be hunting deer with my father the following season, and that alone was a dream come true. Like any inquisitive young man, I delved into the history and nostalgia of the .30 WCF, or .30-30, and the many names it has carried, and was honored to take my first deer—a whitetail doe—with the same cartridge that my father took his.
I’m old enough to remember when the lever guns were still highly popular among deer hunters, and my own rifle, as shiny and unproven as it was in comparison to the older gents’ worn pieces with bluing rubbed off and stock finish dulled by the elements, was a source of pride. In the deer camp mix of Savage 99s, Marlin 336s and a selection of Winchesters, many cartridges were represented, including some rarities like the .348 Winchester, but the main rivals were the .30-30 Winchester and the .35 Remington. As a matter of fact, that may have been the first campfire cartridge argument I was privy to; if only those gentlemen would’ve realized the fire they’d kindled. Let’s take a look at the two champions of the deer woods, and perhaps finish the conversation started three-plus decades ago.
The .30-30 Winchester has the unique claim of being the first cartridge designed to run on both black powder and the revolutionary smokeless powder. Deriving its name from a combination of the caliber and the powder charge (.30 caliber, 30 grains of powder) the .30-30 was introduced in 1895, in the John Browning-designed Model 1894 Winchester. At the time, .32 caliber cartridges were actually more popular than were the .30s, but it didn’t take long for the .30-30 to establish itself as a perfect deer hunting cartridge. Driving a 160-grain jacketed bullet to a velocity of just over 2300 fps, it represented a fantastic hunting cartridge for its time. Soon after, the classic 150- and 170-grain loads took root, and due to the tubular magazines of so many popular rifles, round nose bullets were employed. It has accounted for almost all, if not all, North American game species, and the famous African PH Wally Johnson used one to kill lions in his early years in Mozambique.
The .35 Remington was released—as one of a quartet of rimless cartridges from Remington—in 1906; it is a rimless affair designed for their Model 8 autoloading rifle. Alongside the .25, .30 and .32 Remington, the .35 would be the only survivor. While it has been chambered in many different rifles, the combination of the Marlin Model 336 rifle and the .35 Remington has achieved true classic status, in spite of the fact that the rifle was introduced 1948. This combination offers an affordable, hard-hitting rig which is capable of taking most common game animals, albeit at short range. The .35 Remington uses the 180- and 200-grain .358″caliber bullets, and while light-for-caliber, they are effective at the ranges a .35 Remington is used, which is usually inside of 150 yards.
Which is the more useful cartridge? Of the two, which serves the hunter better? Traditionally, the tubular magazines of the popular lever-rifles restricted the cartridges to using round or flat-point bullets, to avoid the possibility of magazine detonation, should a pointed spitzer bullet hit the primer of the cartridge ahead of it in the magazine. The exception to that rule is Hornady’s LeveRevolution ammo line, which uses a pliable tip on a spitzer bullet to afford a much flatter trajectory in both cartridges. With the traditional loads, the .30-30 will drive its 150- and 170-grain bullets to a muzzle velocity of 2400 and 2250 fps respectively, while the .35 Remington launches its 180- and 200-grain bullets at 2100 and 2080 fps. Both generate between 1,800 and 1,900 ft.-lbs. of muzzle energy with traditional loads, and the hot-rod LeveRevolution will certainly offer an improvement in ballistic figures, but the advancements are parallel between the two cartridges.
I feel the cartridges offer very similar performance, at similar ranges. If you were to give the edge to the larger frontal diameter of the .35 Remington—.358″ versus .308″—you would have a valid point. If you were to vote for the .30-30 Winchester based on its higher Sectional Density values—the 170-grain .308 bullet has an S.D. figure of .256 versus the 200-grain .358’s S.D. figure of .223e—I’d have to agree with you as well. Personally, at the ranges that these cartridges are used, I could easily call it a draw. Both come in light, handy rifles that are a pleasure to carry in the forested mountains and wooded areas where these guns shine. But, there is an issue: It seems the .35 Remington ammunition has begun to fade away. There seem to be fewer choices each year, and that’s a shame.
I give the edge to the apparently timeless .30-30 Winchester for the availability alone; there are dozens of factory loads to choose from, and being .30-caliber is never a bad thing. It’s just about perfect for the deer woods, and you can easily teach a youngster the art of shooting an iron-sighted lever rifle without punishing recoil. It will handle black bears and feral hogs—as will the .35 Remington—but sourcing ammunition is far easier if you own a good old thutty-thutty. My own 94 Winchester is coming out of the safe this year, freshly adorned with a new front sight and rear peep from Skinner Sights; even middle-aged eyes get a new lease on life, and I’m having lots of fun from the bench with my old friend.
If you shoot a .35 Remington, I see no reason whatsoever to stop doing so, just make sure you keep an ample supply of whatever load your rifle likes. However, even after 123 years on the market, the .30-30 Winchester remains the king of medium caliber lever guns; it has been in the top ten selling cartridges for Federal Premium to this day, and with millions of rifles out there chambered for the cartridge, that will probably be a fact decades from now.
Looking for previous installments of our “Head to Head” series? Click here.
With their towering manes, searing stares, and distinctive roar, lions have been the symbol of power for centuries. But just how powerful are lion bites?
The lion has a deadly bite force of 650 psi. While this may seem like a powerful bite force at first, the lions surprisingly have one of the weaker bite forces when it comes to big cats and predators. However, this weaker bite force doesn’t affect a lion’s ability to hunt its prey.
This article will cover the bite force of the lion and how it compares to the bite forces of other big cats in the jungle.
The lion’s average bite force has been recorded to be around 650 PSI. When comparing this to a human’s bite force of a mere 150 PSI, this may look extremely strong, but lions have a weak bite force compared to the bigger cats.
A lion’s most substantial bite has been estimated to be close to 1000 PSI. The strength of the bite has to do with many different factors as well. The maturity and age of a lion are essential factors, coupled with the sex of the lion and what teeth it uses.
While female lions are usually the main hunters of the pride, a male lion sometimes joins in to take down larger and stronger prey.
It’s understandable how the lion doesn’t have the strongest bite force, but then the question presents itself, how did the lion rise to be the king of the jungle?
The answer here lies in technique. Lions attack the throat, generally a weaker area of an animal, and don’t require a massive force to kill their prey.
Lion Bite Force Compared
Being the king of the jungle comes with a lot of comparison and competition.
At times, it may be other bigger cats or hyenas posing competition and trying to fight the lion for power or a dead carcass of prey.
Other times, it may be an article comparing a lion’s bite force to other predators in the jungle.
1. Bite Force Compared To Tigers
Tigers are one of nature’s finest and deadliest predators in the world. Ferocious and ruthless when it comes to hunting its prey.
A tiger’s bite force is estimated to be an average of 1050 psi; that is almost similar to the bite maximum bite force estimated for a wholly grown male lion which is 1000 psi but far greater than their average.
The superior bite force of a tiger makes it understandable why a tiger prefers hunting alone because, with a bite force that strong, few animals can survive a tiger’s attacks.
2. Bite Force Of a Great White Shark
With the release of the highly acclaimed movie Jaws in 1975, the great white sharks became famous as the big bad predators of the ocean. It would be fair to compare the bite force of a lion with the great white shark.
Unfortunately, accurate measurements are difficult to come by, with some estimates as low as 625 psi and others as high as 4,000 psi.
If you thought measuring the bite force of a lion was difficult, try adding the underwater element into the mix.
3. Bite Force Of a Dog
Dogs are known as man’s best friend, but their bite force is dangerous. Generally, dogs can bite with a force of 325 PSI.
However, some bigger breeds of dogs, such as Mastiffs, German Shepherds, and Rottweilers, have a bite force closer to 500 PSI.
Although this might not feel that strong at first, a dog’s smaller size makes it difficult for them to have a stronger bite force.
Final Thoughts on Lion’s Bite Force
The lion is a highly magical creature that oozes class with every feature it possesses. It is distinguishable, and being the jungle king comes with many scrutinies.
A lion has a bite force of 650 psi, and although it may not be as powerful as the bite force of other big cats, it is essential to realize that the lion is efficient with its jaw and bite force.
“Unveiling the truth: Can a .22 air rifle take down a coyote? Delve into the efficacy and limitations of this weapon as we explore its potential to neutralize one of nature’s wiliest predators. Discover the factors at play and gain insights into the practicality and ethical considerations surrounding this contentious matter.”
can a.22 air rifle kill a coyote
When it comes to hunting coyotes, many hunters wonder if a.22 air rifle can effectively take down these elusive creatures. The answer to this question is not straightforward and depends on several factors. Firstly, it is important to note that coyotes are resilient animals with thick fur and tough hides, making them more resistant to smaller caliber ammunition. While a.22 air rifle may be able to inflict injury, it may not deliver a lethal shot unless placed precisely.
Additionally, the power and accuracy of the specific.22 air rifle being used play a crucial role. Some high-powered models with velocities exceeding 1000 feet per second (fps) can produce enough force to kill a coyote if the shot placement is ideal. However, most standard.22 air rifles have lower velocities and may lack the stopping power required for an ethical and humane kill on such large game. Therefore, using a.22 air rifle for coyote hunting should be approached with caution and requires careful consideration of equipment capabilities and shot placement.
In conclusion, while a.22 air rifle may be capable of injuring or even killing a coyote under certain circumstances, it is not considered an optimal choice for humane and effective coyote control. It is recommended to consult local authorities and use legally approved methods for dealing with coyote-related issues to ensure both safety and ethical treatment of wildlife.
Its external micro- and macro-hammer spring tension adjustments allow you to customize the optimal setting for each round of shots you take.
For maximum control, try out the valve control adjustment system which is externally accessible so you can always monitor the internal pressure systems and make tweaks whenever needed.
Furthermore, the new FX Airguns Impact M4 PCP air rifle is the latest breakthrough in airgun technology.
The new dual regulator system pre-reduces air pressure, providing superior regulated power and consistency with fewer standard deviations from shot to shot – a must-have for any serious shooter.
In addition, the unique Power Plenum 720 offers an increased diameter and 72cc volume for efficient and powerful projectiles every time.
Combined with the rifle’s specially designed porting and valving system, the FX Airguns Impact M4 is perfect for precision performance in competition or out on the field. With its maximum output pressure of 250 bar, this top-of-the-line rifle ensures the accuracy you need when it matters most.
The FX Impact M4 comes in 5 different calibers available: .177, .22, .25, .30, .35 , with Black/Bronze colors.
Best Fit and Finish .22 Break Barrel Air Rifle: Beeman R9
Break barrel rifles are a specialty from Beeman and this choice will not disappoint you.
You can take this gun for your hunting expeditions and target shooting games.
The success rate is high as the accuracy is master-crafted right out of the factory.
For the .22 caliber air rifle from Beeman, you get a maximum velocity of 740 FPS and the shooting sessions come with superb power.
This powerful .22 air rifle follows a single-shot shooting and comes with a spring-piston mechanism.
Shooters get a majestic rifle with hardwood Monte Carlo Stock.
Also, you get a raised cheekpiece to support ambidextrous customers. A checkered grip helps the shooter stick to the rifle at all times.
The main reason to use the break barrel system is to help in the cocking mechanism. You no longer have to apply extra force as it is completely smooth.
Beeman’s air rifle choice gives a standard dovetail to mount your optics.
Moreover, with an adjustable rear sight in place, your targets meet your sharp eyes easily.
Let’s talk about the trigger and the safety aspects.
The rifle gives the users a two-stage trigger system to avoid any accidents.
Additionally, the entire safety system in place is automatic.
Another thing you might be concerned about is the muzzle velocity and energy (or power) of this air rifle.
Typically, Beeman R9 .22 air rifles can reach over 17 FPE with an FPS between 650 to 750.
Thus, it is ideal for small-game hunting as well as target shooting.
Recoil and noise are less.
Also, for the .22 caliber, you find many pellet types compatible.
The air rifle weighs 7.3 lbs only and is lightweight for all users.
Sometimes, shooters may sense vibration for the first few attempts. Fine-tuning will help correct this issue.
Who wouldn’t love a rifle that ticks all the boxes in terms of features?
One such rifle is the Benjamin Marauder Synthetic.
This rifle has a velocity adjuster. However, the maximum velocity you get is up to 1000 FPS.
Change it according to your need and become the best at what you do.
Ambidextrous people can easily use these rifles with a vertically adjustable comb and reversible bolt. Also, the accuracy is on point with the help of a choked barrel.
Let’s have a quick look at the different pellets, respective velocities, and accuracy for this air rifle:
The Springfield Armory M1A Underlever Pellet Rifle is an incredibly accurate air rifle that brings a faithful replica of its namesake firearm to the market.
Developed by Air Venturi, this masterfully designed air gun features a fixed barrel and weighs 9.9 lbs, mirroring the standard of excellence set by the National Match semi-automatic rifle.
Equipped with an adjustable rear peep sight for windage and elevation, you can expect unparalleled accuracy from your shots.
The left-hand side of the rifle boasts threaded holes for mounting a traditional M1A/M14 rail mount and allows you to customize your experience with optics like scopes and red dot sights.
The beavertail extended cocking lever makes pulling back a whopping 35 lbs of force much easier than expected, without detracting from the beauty of design all firearms enthusiasts know and love about Springfield Armory products.
Whether you’re looking for an impressive piece to show off in your collection or you’re searching for precision accuracy from every shot, look no further than the Springfield Armory M1A Underlever Pellet Rifle!
In terms of the .22 air rifle, the velocity and accuracy are inversely proportional.
Again, the use of the air rifle you get plays a crucial role here.
In terms of hunting, you may need more accuracy and hence go for .22 air rifles with lower velocity.
Generally, higher velocity air rifles come with either gas-powered or nitro-powered pistons.
Power (FPE)
When it comes to choosing air rifles, several people tend to overlook the rifle’s power or FPE.
Although the muzzle velocity or FPS is an important factor to consider, you also need to look for the rifle’s power, also known as muzzle energy or FPE.
The muzzle energy states the effectiveness of an air rifle.
It depicts the amount of energy that could be transferred to the target.
Typically, the power or muzzle energy is dependent on two factors – the rifle’s FPS and the pellet’s weight.
If you need to bring down any animal, you need a specific FPE with regard to your air rifle.
For instance, small-game animals might need an FPE between 10 to 25 whereas large-game animals might need an FPE above 50 too.
Note: If you don’t know the FPE of an air rifle, you can calculate it by dividing the FPS of the gun by the pellet weight you’re planning to use.
The U.S. Army is on the verge of updating its howitzer fleet to double the shooting range. The M109A7 Paladin and M777 howitzers are likely to see a serious increase in the distance at which they can support friendly forces while staying out of the range fans of Russian and Chinese-made artillery.
One part of this upgrade: a gun barrel nearly as long as a telephone pole.
A Work of Art(illery)
Field artillery is back in vogue. The U.S, has spent the past two decade in infantry-intensive wars in places like Iraq and Afghanistan, but the shift back to big-power potential warfare against enemies like Russia and China has turned attention back to the artillery branch. Howitzers and rocket launchers are the primary means of fire support for ground forces in conventional battle and can strike targets miles behind enemy lines.
The U.S. Army has some very good artillery weapons, including the M109A7 Paladin self-propelled howitzer (above) and the M777 towed howitzer. Long-distance shooting really isn’t their strong suit, though. Both guns can fire to a range of 14 miles with conventional shells and 18.6 miles with rocket-assisted shells, or RAPs, which give each shell some extra oomph but at a cost of less explosive filler and slightly less accuracy.
The problem is that Russian guns can shoot even farther. Russia’s older self-propelled howitzer, the Msta, can shoot to ranges of 24 miles while the new Koalitsiya howitzer has a range of 43 miles. That means that U.S. howitzers must operate within range of Russian guns, and the Koalitsiya could bombard U.S. artillery forces at maximum range without U.S. guns being able to shoot back.
Winning the Range Game
The Extended Range Cannon Artillery program is an attempt to buy more distance versus Russian artillery by improving existing American guns. In the short term, as Breaking Defense points out, that includes a new RAP round, the XM113, which will push existing guns to 24 miles. The XM113 will start hitting the field in 2 to 3 years. A combination of RAP shell, new propellants and a new, super-long howitzer barrel should push Army howitzers to 43 miles.
The new howitzer barrel, recently tested at Yuma Proving Ground and shown above, is 58 calibers long. In cannon and howitzer terminology, the caliber of the barrel is not the barrel diameter, but the length. In this case, the gun is 58 times the diameter of the barrel. To determine the length of a 155mm/58 caliber howitzer, multiply 155 by 58. That’s 8,990 millimeters long, or 29.49 feet. That’s six feet longer than the existing gun on the M109 howitzer.
Longer barrels allow the explosive gasses produced by burning propellant to act longer on the shell, so it gives the barrel at greater velocities. Greater velocity equals greater range. A short-barreled rifle, for example, will have a slower muzzle velocity and shorter range than a rifle with a longer barrel.
In addition to the ERCA upgrades, the Army could end up fielding the new Nammo ramjet artillery shell. Nammo, a Norwegian company and contractor in the XM113 program, claims its ramjet shell can reach ranges of 60 miles or more. Powered by a ramjet, the round uses the surrounding air as fuel, reducing the need for fuel on board the shell itself.
The Army’s new cannon tech should keep U.S. artillery competitive with Russian artillery, at least while the Army is busy buying a replacement for the M2 Bradley infantry fighting vehicle and M1 Abrams main battle tank. The long barrels make travel a bit awkward, especially through forests and urban areas, but the benefit to Army artillery will be significant and at minimal cost.
I’ve heard it a dozen times. You’ve heard it too, or even said it. We all have. But the deer biologists in goggles and gloves who study deer poop for a living (and other, more glamorous things) say it’s actually pretty difficult to distinguish buck and doe droppings.
While the myth of the buck turd is mostly false (more on that momentarily), there are still plenty of things we can learn from deer scat.
Since a major part of fawn survival hinges on scent reduction, they don’t poop where does hide them. Does will take fawns to neutral areas – well away from daytime hideouts – and let them nurse and poop all at once. Fawns can only defecate after their mothers stimulate them while nursing, according to Duane Diefenbach, wildlife ecology professor and leader of the PA Cooperative Fish and Wildlife Research Unit. Weird as it is, does often consume their fawns’ feces, too. This process reduces scent and helps protect the fawn from predators.
2. Adult deer are very regular.
During fall and winter, most whitetails empty their bowels about 10 to 15 times per day. In spring and summer, this frequency spikes, fluctuating between 20 and 30 times. Interestingly, their bowel movements are so predictable that many wildlife agencies often guestimate deer population densities based on the number of poop piles they discover within a designated area. You can do the same: Hunters who take trail camera surveys seriously can use this method to verify population densities.
3. It’s nearly impossible to distinguish between buck and doe poop.
The commonly held belief is that large, tubular excrements belong to bucks, and small, pelleted piles belong to does. But according to Buckmasters, research shows that it’s virtually impossible for hunters to distinguish between buck and doe poop. Both sexes produce both scat shapes. When comparing tubular scat, bucks can have longer stool pieces, but that’s not always true. The bottom line? Unless you see the deer that dropped it, scat shape alone won’t indicate a deer’s sex.
4. Bucks sometimes drop more pellets, though.
Male deer can, however, produce more pellets than female deer. When comparing pelleted scat, a buck drops 70 to 80 per session on average, while does generally produce 50 to 60. Seriously though – what hunter is going to stop and count? If you’re after a mega-giant though, maybe you should bring a latex glove and a No. 2 pencil, and count to 80.
5. Color and moisture suggest how long the scat has been there.
The coloration and moisture level of a pile helps determine the age of deer poop. Droppings that are still dark, shiny and wet are likely less than 12 hours old. If there’s no moisture and droppings look lighter in color, there’s a good chance the scat is at least 24 hours old, if not several days. Droppings become more fibrous over time, and scat that’s cracked, crusty or broken is usually at least a week old.
6. Digging through poo gives clues.
Learn what deer are eating, and when, by examining scat. A forage’s water content will dictate its composition and shape. Mounds of firm, pelleted dung suggests woody browse (buds, leaves, twigs), grain (corn, oats, soybeans) and hard mast (acorns and nuts). Long, singular, squishier poop indicates recent consumption of broadleaf plants, forbs, grasses, and soft mast (apples, peaches, pears, persimmons, plums, etc.).
7. Handle deer droppings with care.
Prions – malformed proteins shed by CWD-positive deer – are commonly found in deer urine, feces and saliva. While it’s currently believed that humans can’t contract this disease, who really wants to become a lab rat? If you’re going digging, carry gloves or use a stick.
8. Concentration indicates high-traffic areas.
The best lesson you can learn from deer poop is that a lot of it indicates a good hunting spot. Hunters who stumble on extensive piles of poop should take note. Often, excessive scat is located near preferred food sources, water sources, and bedding areas. If you find a bedding area that’s full of it, go mobile and get as tight as you dare on that deer.
You can’t catch fish if you can’t find them. It’s as true in ice fishing as it is in open water.
There are two things most ice anglers have a lot of trouble with: choosing the right type of lake to fish during the ice-up period, and finding fish once the good “first-ice” bite slows down. Let’s address both of these issues in some depth: (Get it? Depth? Lots of fish go deep during the iced-over period?)
Choose The Right Lake At Early Ice
You should, simply put, fish smaller bodies of water early in the iced-over period. It’s often fairly easy to locate fish on smaller lakes, because it’s a high-percentage move to look in the deepest basin area. Many, if not most, of the fish in a smaller lake will spend the winter in the deepest basin, especially if there’s only one, and it’s significantly deeper than the rest of the lake.
The problem with many smaller lakes is that they develop an oxygen problem as winter wears on. Where those “small-lake” fish are in a biting mood at early ice, you return to those lakes later in the winter and often find no takers.
The fish are still there, of course (unless they suffer a die-off), but they are often severely stressed due to the low oxygen levels.
Bigger Lakes Stay Better Later Into The Season
We’re oversimplifying things here, but it’s generally true to say that larger bodies of water will hold better fishing later into the winter season.
One of the most difficult aspects of catching fish through the ice on larger bodies of water is finding them. With so much turf to search, you can feel lost before you even start. One clue is that you should always fish anywhere you drill a hole and find green weeds. As long as sunlight can penetrate the ice, weeds can actually grow, something many anglers don’t realize. But if you drop down your lure and come back with green weeds on the hook, make good notes on where you are.
Also, don’t just blindly follow the crowds. Many anglers, from past experience, know of good spots. And groups of fish houses pop up over these spots every winter.
Sometimes, even just getting off to the edge of the group of houses, off to the fringe of all the ruckus, can help you find fish that aren’t as “on guard.” Activity moves the fish, especially at midday.
One of my strategies is to go to the crowd of fish houses just to see what type of spot they’re fishing. Is it deep? Shallow? Hard or soft bottom? How close is it to really deep water? By studying the characteristics of the spot, you can often find similar spots by looking at a contour map of the lake, and get off to a new hot- spot that’s all yours.
Another hint: At “prime time,” when the sun is setting at the tree tops, fish often move right into those “community spots” where all the fish houses are. They are pressured and on guard, but they still return to that spot, because it’s where most of their food is in many cases.
Finding Fish At Midwinter
It’s probably tougher to locate fish at midwinter than any other ice-fishing period. Here are some high-percentage haunts, to shortcut the hunt:
Walleye-Classic midwinter walleye locations include deep edges of remaining green weed growth, and good-sized hard-bottom points and sunken humps. First find large expanses of deep basin water, then look for these structural elements close by. Fishing pressure will force walleye off the most obvious spots. Check around the perimeter of groups of anglers, even out over deep water. If you find stair-stepping dropoffs, fish each small “stair” or flat.
Northern Pike-Eating machines that bite good in winter. Sorry to be vague, but they can be anywhere the food is. If a bay is full of small panfish, tip-ups can take pike. But also look for them to drop relatively deeper as winter wears on. Check the outside weed edges, but pay special attention to deeper rock and other hard-bottomed areas near good-sized shallow food shelves.
Largemouth Bass-Often disinterested in feeding at this time of year. There are disagreements about winter movements. Considered by some, including me, to be roamers. By working shallow cover such as weeds or stumps you can catch some on small minnows, but don’t expect to catch a lot of largemouths very often at midwinter.
Smallmouth Bass-Generally, a much deeper midwinter fish, and more catchable, than largemouths. Smallies like expansive areas of rock or other relatively hard bottom, in “deep, but not too deep” zones from about 20-40 feet.
Yellow Perch-Notorious as bottom feeders, and midwinter is no exception. Keep those baits puffing up or sitting on bottom. They tend to be in deeper water, down to 40 feet or so. Don’t look on drop offs, but instead along the flats out from them. Perch feed on insects and larvae that live in the mud, and breaklines tend to be along harder bottom!
Bluegills and other Sunfish-“Where aren’t sunfish?” might be a better question. On some lakes, it won’t matter where you drill a hole; small sunnies will be there waiting. But in general, organic (mud) bottomed bays and flats the bigger the better hold the most consistent sunfish action. If the areas are close to deep water, so much the better.
If you’re willing to hunt for rod-benders, seek out the biggest areas of shallow or deep weed growth. Do your best to get away from the crowds, and be quiet in your approach. And even though sunfish, befitting their name, have a reputation as good daylight feeders, the twilight periods of dawn and dusk are prime big-fish times.
You’ll have to fish your specific water, because some lakes hold big sunfish shallow all winter. Heavy fishing pressure, though, can “cream off” most of the big bulls, making deeper weed- or mud-related fish a better bet. We’ve caught most of our biggest midwinter bluegills in deeper water lately. We look for mud and weeds in 20-30 feet, and sometimes even deeper than that.
Crappies-You will find some nice crappies in shallow flats areas, mixed in with sunfish. But many midwinter slabs are in deep water, often suspended. Look over the areas just away from deep weed edges, or edges of other cover.
Deep points, and deep inside turns, can hold concentrations of midwinter crappies. Searching vast areas of deep water can turn up big schools, but it’s a needle-in-the-haystack proposition.
