If you are looking for a unique and thrilling hunting adventure, stalking javelina is unlike anything you have experienced before. These small but ferocious animals have developed a devoted fan base of hunters who dedicate themselves to the observation and hunting of these southwestern mammals.

The key to a successful javelina hunt is knowing as much about your prey as possible. Here is our comprehensive guide to everything you need to know about the javelina.

What Is a Javelina?

The javelina resembles a wild pig and is one of three species of peccary, which is defined as a social, pig-like animal.

They have short, coarse, brindled hair that lightens around the neck, giving the appearance of a collar. They have a snout and small eyes, similar to a pig, and they walk on their front two digits. However, unlike a pig or wild boar whose tusks are curved, the javelina’s tusks are straight, having evolved for crushing fibrous material, seeds, and roots.

Habitat

There are only three species of peccaries in the world. The javelina’s Latin name is Tayassu tajacu, and its cousins are the white-lipped peccary, which lives in Southern Mexico to Northern South America, and the Chacoan peccary that lives in Bolivia, Argentina, and Paraguay.

If you’re wondering where to shoot for javelina, they thrive in rocky, arid climes like the desert of the southwestern United States in parts of Texas, Arizona, and New Mexico. They prefer areas such as the saguaro desert that offer ample supplies of prickly pears and mesquite. You can also find herds close to desert watering holes and other permanent water sources.

As they are unable to cool down through evaporation like other animals, they tend to remain in shady areas such as under cliffs and caves during the hottest parts of the day and venture out to forage when it is cooler.

Habits

Rapacious omnivores, javelinas will eat almost anything they come across. Their primary food sources are desert plants, but, on occasion, they’ll eat grubs, birds’ eggs, bugs, and reptiles like lizards.

Their favorite plants to munch on include sotol, prickly pear, agave, some types of tubers, and acorns from the scrub oak.

Although they aren’t great for eating, the larger predators like black bears, mountain lions, and jaguars all feast on javelinas from time to time. Bobcat, coyote, and other smaller predators avoid the javelina, perhaps because of the threat of its razor-sharp tusks and unshakeable fighting acumen.

Javelinas are incredibly social animals and stay in groups almost all of the time. This means, when you’re out hunting javelinas, if you see one, there are sure to be more somewhere close by.

Physiology

Javelinas resemble pigs in that they have stout bodies, a snout, bristly hair, and a jutting underbite on their bullet-shaped heads. Although they closely resemble the family of pig and boar, they are very distant cousins, as the genetic split between these species occurred over 30 million years ago.

Mature javelinas weigh between 40 and 60 pounds, and they sport brownish-gray bristles with a highlighted, prominent collar between their shoulders.

They have scent glands, as one of their keenest senses is their sense of smell. This particular physiological detail can help you find javelina, as the musky smell they use to communicate and mark their territories is quite pungent and leaves a trail.

They have incredibly poor eyesight compared to their super sense of smell. Because of this, javelinas often feed at dusk in the thick brush where they don’t need good vision to find sustenance.

How to Find a Javelina

Some clues indicating the presence of prey while you’re hunting javelinas are signs of feeding. You’ll see chewed-up prickly pear paddles, shredded agave and sotol, and cow patties that have been rooted. You’ll also see turned-up ground where the javelinas have snuffled through the first layer of undergrowth.

Under rocky overhangs, in tucked-away places in the shade and out of the desert sun, you’ll often find evidence of javelinas bedding down. You can also sniff them out, as their powerful musk glands, located at both their hind ends and heads, exude a pungent, telltale olfactory clue.

How to Stalk a Javelina

The primary tactic of javelina hunting is to spot them, and then stalk them. Glassing, or using your binoculars to spot your prey, should be your focus when hunting javelinas. Set up optics from a high vantage point for the best view and for effective concealment. They camouflage well against the backdrop of the desert, and it may take a while for you to spot a group.

Once you find a group of javelinas, your main tactic should be to play to the wind. Javelinas rely on their sense of smell, so you have to mask your own scent as much as possible so they don’t get wind of your presence.

Once you get within 50 yards of the javelinas, take into account their hearing and eyesight. Although not the strongest of their senses, javelinas can still see and hear you. If you are spotted, freeze for a few minutes. Javelinas have very short attention spans. They will usually forget about you if you are completely still for a while.

How to Bag a Javelina

Javelinas respond with vigor to a distress call of another javelina. Being social animals, they react with a speed and ferocity unmatched by other big game. A call blown outside of 75 yards might not elicit much of a response—but call within range of the bristly creatures, and they’ll come running.

When you’re lining up a shot at individual javelina, remember that their vitals are small, so you must be very accurate to make an ethical shot. Sometimes, a bullet will go through one javelina and hit the one behind it as well.

These aren’t huge animals, but they are some of the fiercest prey animals many hunters have come up against. Match your weapon to your prey and come in close to set up the perfect shot.

Once you’ve bagged javelina, take the time to remove its scent glands, both fore and aft. If left untouched, the scent glands can flavor the meat and hide, leaving a foul taste and odor.

If you want to eat your trophy, you will have to dress the animal in the field to get rid of those scent glands. Once this is accomplished, treat the javelina much like a boar in butchering and cooking techniques. Slow roasted javelina or a javelina stew both make the most of this fierce desert animal.

Although on the smaller side, javelinas are tough little beasts that offer a lot of challenges when spotting them, stalking them, and bagging them. They have a tenacious spirit and razor-sharp tusks that make any hunters’ heart rate speed up.

“Now the work begins” is an adage that resonates in my mind each time I recover a deer I’ve arrowed. Rarely have I dropped deer in places I can drive to with my Chevy. More often they fall in hard-to-reach places far from the nearest road. And that, my friend, is “work” no matter how you slice it. Of course, I love venison and I’m not complaining. But I’ve ended my share of successful bowhunts with pins-and-needles back pain, a parched mouth and sore feet. Yes, taking a deer can mean hours of laborious work, especially if you travel to bowhunt and are faced with completing the job solo.

Fortunately, outdoor companies are ramping up their offerings to provide bowhunters like you and me with products that simplify the entire recovery process. Let’s review five of them now.

Hawk Hunting Crawler

In locations where ATVs aren’t allowed, especially on public lands, a quality deer cart is a must-have item. Hawk’s Crawler is one of the market’s finest. 360° Dual Pivoting Axles with large wheels provide the sturdiness to be pulled over obstacles such as logs and rocks. Never Flat Tires are filled with micro-cellular polyurethane foam for reliability in varied terrain. The Crawler’s heavy-duty steel frame boasts a stunning 500-pound weight rating. Now, your deer cart can double to haul gear and firewood to remote camping areas.

MSRP: $149.99

Hawkhunting.com

Viking Solutions SwiveLift

Viking Solutions’ SwiveLift is truly a back-saver. Designed to help individuals load deer into a truck bed using a platform and hand winch, all parts of the SwiveLift incorporate powder-coated steel for the durability your hard-earned dollars deserve. The setup weighs 54 pounds, yet lifts objects up to 300 pounds with minimal user effort. Not only can the SwiveLift load deer, but other bulky objects such as coolers that would typically require another person’s strength and stamina. Once you winch your deer to tailgate height, simply pull it off the platform and into your truck bed. It’s that simple.

MSRP: $169.95

Vikingsl.com

Allen Dual Harness Deer Drag

Dragging is the most basic way to get your deer out of the woods, and economically, the price is right (it’s free).

However, one inexpensive gadget that removes strain from hands and arms is the Dual Harness Deer Drag by Allen. The harness’ waist belt and shoulder straps feature beefy 2-inch web material, and the harness is hunter orange for safety during open firearm seasons. A sternum strap further enhances the harness’ effectiveness. A steel D-Ring connects the harness to the drag rope. The best part: The Dual Harness Deer Drag fits conveniently in your daypack.

MSRP: $10.49

Byallen.com

Trophy Tow All-Terrain Transport Sled

This functional sled is constructed from heavy-duty plastic that simply glides across the ground. The sled can be pulled by hand or with an ATV. It includes heavy-duty ratchets that quickly tighten the sides of the sled around your deer to protect it during transportation.

The Trophy Tow All-Terrain Transport Sled includes a weather-resistant carrying bag with a shoulder strap for storage and transportation to the field.

MSRP: $47.99

Cabelas.com

Koola Buck Anti-Microbial Deer Quarter Bags

Mule deer and western whitetail hunters: packing out your kill is a real possibility. Doing it quickly ensures fresh results, and the proper meat bags will decrease or eliminate possible contaminants from contacting your precious venison.

And in the environments where we handle venison, bacteria abound. Enter Koola Buck Anti-Microbial Deer Quarter Bags. Each package contains four large 8 x 40 stretch bags infused with a proprietary blend of all-natural and tasteless bacterial inhibitors. Koola Buck Game Bags reduce spoilage-causing bacteria by up to eight times more than competing game bags. You worked hard for your shot, now protect your meat for the pack out with Anti-Microbial Deer Quarter Bags from Koola Buck!

MSRP: $24.99

Koolabuck.com

These days, the availability of multiple types of scope configurations, focal planes, and features is a testament to how far telescopic sights have come over the years.

To those just getting into rifle scopes, it’s now a quandary to choose between FFP or SFP scopes.

How do you choose the best focal plane for your rifle or for the job?

The shooter must determine what the rifle will be used for 80-90% of the time. The intended application can help determine specific shooter needs that includes whether the benefits of FFP or SFP scopes are right for common approaches such as hunting, long range, or the AR-15.

More approaches to consider include combat, the LPVO, target shooting, and competition use. But before we get ahead of ourselves, what is FFP and SFP?

Let’s find out.

What is the Difference Between FFP and SFP Scopes?

Overall, the difference between FFP and SFP scopes is how the reticle performs in relation to magnification. FFP reticles will grow or decrease in size while SFP reticles will remain the same regardless of power changes. This is a direct result of where the reticle is placed in the scope.

Since both first and second focal plane rifle scopes look the same on the outside, you can’t tell them apart from appearance alone. Here is a rundown on FFP and SFP scopes to understand what they are, how they work, and their advantages.

What does FFP Mean on a Rifle Scope?

FFP means First Focal Plane but is also known as Front Focal Plane. What is FFP? It is the position of the reticle. It lies in front of the magnifying lens within the scope erector tube. The reticle increases in size as magnification increases and decreases in size as magnification decreases.

First Focal Plane Explained

Explaining first focal plane reticles must include discussion of subtension. FFP scopes have constant subtension. The measured amount of space/area the reticle covers up on a target remains the same regardless of magnification.

Subtension is the measurement of how much of a target or area is covered by the reticle at a specific distance. Because the reticle and magnification are in parallel, reticle crosshairs will always take up the same amount of space on a target whether you’re in low power or high.

What are the Advantages of a FFP Scope?

The first focal plane position of the reticle provides two primary advantages. First, constant subtension that allows for accurate ballistic holdovers at any magnification setting. Secondly, the magnified reticle at high magnification improves visibility of holdover points.

The best FFP scopes typically have a tactical or competition approach, but as hunters are demanding long range performance, FFP scopes can be used for hunting too.

FFP Pros & Cons

What does SFP Mean on a Rifle Scope?

SFP means Second Focal Plane but is also known as Rear Focal Plane. What is SFP? It is the position of the reticle. It lies behind the magnifying lens but in front of the eyepiece in a rifle scope. The reticle remains the same size (static) throughout the entire magnification range.

Second Focal Plane Explained

Explaining second focal plane reticles is cause for a discussion on subtension. Subtension is the measured amount of space or area on a target that crosshairs cover up at a specific distance. SFP reticles are important to understand as subtension is constantly changing as magnification changes.

The amount of space that the crosshairs cover up on a target at any distance will change as you increase or decrease magnification. As you increase power, the crosshairs will take up less ‘space’ on the target as the target gets larger in size. As you decrease power, the crosshairs will take up more ‘space’ on the target as the target gets smaller in size.

What are the Advantages of a SFP Scope?

Second focal plane advantages are many. With a reticle that doesn’t change size, it can provide better crosshair visibility for shooting in low magnifications. On the high end, it can improve visibility of small targets at max magnification. SFP scopes are common and more affordable than FFP scopes.

SFP Pros & Cons

FFP VS SFP: How to Choose?

Choosing between a FFP or SFP scope requires more insight than leaving it to personal preference alone. Other considerations such as magnification requirements and how the scope will be used most of the time must be factors that have weight in the final decision.

Hunting

What focal plane is best for hunting? Two factors must be considered: magnification and terrain. FFP scopes are compatible for high power and open country, mountainous terrain like Western big game hunting. SFP scopes can be great for low magnification and timber, brush, or Mid-West deer hunting.

Generally, 3-9x and 4-16x are great configurations for many hunting conditions and game as they can cover plenty of ground. The visibility of a reticle that doesn’t change size at low powers in lowlight conditions gives the SFP scope an edge that FFP cannot provide.

Normal reticle visibility of a SFP is also preferred for those in heavy brush and thick timber environments. With FFP reticles, the crosshairs can get too small and are difficult to see as they appear ‘lost’ against the terrain.

So, is FFP any good for hunting? FFP allows for accurate holdovers at any magnification, and it can be maximized to its full potential if you’re consistently hunting with magnifications of more than 12x. This is great for long-range, open country, and unpredictable, mountainous terrain. Dialing in or messing with magnification to get to the calibrated power to use the right holdover point on a SFP scope is less than ideal.

Ultimately, the last 30 minutes of last legal light is often the golden hour of filling a tag. Clarity, resolution, and brightness is best achieved in the lower powers, and since FFP scopes have a hard time with reticle visibility in low light and low power, the SFP remains the favorite focal plane scope for deer hunters.

Winner: SFP

Long Range

Long range shooting often means high magnification and a lot of dialing in or heavy dependence on the reticle. Whether it’s hunting or competitive shooting, long range performance is best done with a FFP scope.

FFP reticles are clearly the best scopes for long range shooting. The first benefit is that you can maximize use out of a complex reticle. With multiple elevation and windage holdovers that will always be accurate regardless of magnification, it makes for fast and straightforward decisions. This benefit also boosts confidence in reducing POI shifts when you do adjust the power.

Secondly, the reticle becomes larger in size as you crank up power. This makes it easier to see the crosshairs, hashmarks, and/or dots. The catch-22 is that on very small targets, FFP reticle subtension can obscure significant areas making it harder for exacting shots.

Is FFP or SFP better for long range shooting? SFP scopes will work for bench shooters who aren’t on the clock and content shooting from max power. Quality glass and turrets are essential. You’ll always have an easy to see reticle regardless of magnification. However, FFP is better suited to the job.

Winner: FFP

AR15

The AR-15 is a favorite and popular rifle used for everything from target shooting to hunting, law enforcement and competitions. FFP or SFP scopes can be mounted to a MSR to fit your requirements and intended applications.

Choosing between FFP or SFP scopes for an AR15 or any type of MSR comes down to intended applications and the range of magnification you will be using 80-90% of the time.

SFP is suitable for many applications especially when magnification is less than 12x. SFP scopes are very user-friendly on the low power end versus FFP scopes. Having a max of 12x or even pushing it to 14x with SFP is suitable for some long-range performance, and at that point, you can rely on holdover points onboard the reticle.

FFP will really shine for long range shooting, competition, and some hunting styles. Being able to increase the power but not max out and still have accurate holdovers is critical for these applications.

Since you can do a lot of various things with an AR, the type of focal plane scope you opt for should be suited to what you will be doing with it.

Winner: Tie

Combat

The LPVO or a high-powered scope used for combat, tactical, or home defense situations will have a reticle placed either in the first or second focal planes. For most professional scenarios, CQB performance is paramount.

The SFP reticle is constant, easy to see, and well suited to CQB combat. Even when you change magnification within 250 yards, there shouldn’t be any need to hold, at least on a man size target. A lot of law enforcement (LE) combat engagements are extremely close, and LE sniper scenarios may be closer than most people think.

You can opt for either FFP or SFP scopes for tactical use, but with a 50 to 100-yard zero, SFP will serve its purpose for close to mid ranges.

FFP reticles certainly have their place and can be extremely beneficial on magnified optics when holding over or for fast corrections and follow-up shots at a distance. It may come down to the type of combat and distance or speed requirements you anticipate needing.

Do snipers use FFP or SFP? It may depend on who you talk to. It’s been said that veteran snipers preferred the fixed 10x power scope. It may also depend on if it’s military or local police. Oftentimes, the budget is the determining factor versus the preference over reticle focal planes.

Winner: Tie

LPVO (Low Power Variable Optic)

LPVO scopes are close to mid-range optics and are great on tactical carbines. The 1x magnification and red dot capability are must-have features, but the low variable magnification makes it a versatile optic. SFP is appropriate for most scenarios, but FFP can provide distance advantages.

FFP reticles on a LPVO would be best suited to those who know they will be engaging targets at multiple and varied distances. This would be appropriate for competition shooters and military men and women on the front line. The use of a FFP LPVO will also ensure fast and accurate shots using holdovers.

It is worth mentioning that quality LPVO scopes with FFP reticles should be visible and fast to use in the low powers. FFP reticles are more common to find in 1-8x or 1-10x LPVO scopes.

In most circumstances, the SFP remains attractive to the LPVO user and is the most common type of focal plane available in 1-4x and 1-6x scopes. Even if you’re shooting over 300 yards, outside of specialized circumstances, you’ll likely have the time needed to dial in or max out the power for accurate holdovers. With a LPVO for an AR, there’s not much to complain about when it comes to using max power.

Winner: SFP

Target Shooting

There are many forms of target shooting from plinking, rimfire fun, and 100-yard shooting to testing out long-range skills and scope ability. For most purposes other than long range, the SFP reticle is the perfect scope for these scenarios.

A lot of people don’t need FFP scopes and target shooters generally fall into that category. Many target shooters are at the bench or in prone positions and aren’t racing against the clock. They have the time to dial in adjustments and shoot from the center point at their pace and will do fine with a SFP scope.

FFP may be desired for long range target shooting or perhaps for those who want a scope for aging eyes that allows them to see a larger reticle. More magnification doesn’t make you a better shooter, but it does allow you to see better.

The same can be said if you’re considering FFP or SFP for 22LR rimfires. Take into consideration what you’re using it for 80% of the time, the targets you’re shooting, and the distances. FFP would be great for target shooting practice for PRS matches but can obscure F-class smallbore targets. For most recreational purposes without holds, SFP does it.

Winner: SFP

3-Gun/Competition

Speed and accuracy are just two factors that are must-have features from a rifle scope for 3-Gun and many types of shooting competition matches. FFP is the way to go for varied distances and on-the-clock shots.

Precision marksmen almost always prefer FFP scopes. The ability to use accurate holdovers at any magnification makes for fast shots. You lose time with constantly dialing in on an SFP scope, decreasing magnification for wide FOVs to find the next target and then cranking it up to make a shot, or always being stuck max power.

The top scopes for competition shooting usually have a very wide magnification range allowing for adjustable FOVs for the widely varied target distances. The downside to the FFP is that the reticle can get small at lower power making it harder to see that center dot. Illumination can help to alleviate the problem. Nonetheless, the SFP has an advantage in that it always stays at its normal, visible size and is usually thin enough to see F-class smallbore targets.

Pro Tip: Some shooters in competitions that allow for more than one optic will use an FFP scope and red dot sight combo with a 45-degree offset mount.

Winner: FFP

SFP VS FFP: Which is Best for You?

The right scope will be the one that is best suited to the intended application. If it’s about cost alone, the SFP is cheaper as FFP reticles are nearly always glass-etched and precision alignment is imperative. Beyond the budget, choose the scope that offers the most advantages for the application.

In general, FFP is great for long range, high magnification, competition, and some professional tactical and hunting applications.

SFP is very good for most target shooting, hunting, and CQB performance. If you’re not holding over often, prefer consistent visibility of the reticle, or shoot small targets often, SFP is the way to go.

Keep in mind that experienced shooters find ways to help mitigate some of the problems inherent in each focal plane and work with it. Don’t let complex math, budget, or existing biases get in the way of choosing the right type of scope for you and for the job.

Further Reading

• How to Measure Scope Ring Height (With Pics & Calculations)
• How to Adjust a Rifle Scope: 6 Scope Adjustments Explained!
• How to Level a Scope on a Rifle [Step-by-Step With Pics]
• What is a Rifle Scope Ruler (Mildot Master) & How to Use It?
• How to Lap Scope Rings (& Is Lapping Really Necessary?)

Venison brisket can be one of the toughest cuts on the deer. Learn how to prepare it so that it comes out tender and juicy every time!

Smoking, like many other cooking technique, gets a bad rap. It is really a very forgiving way to cook. People tend to overcomplicate the process though. Keep reading and we’ll simplify it a bit.

You will just need some planning ahead of time to make sure it comes out perfect.

What is brisket?

The brisket of the deer is found on the chest (breast), above the front legs. It is a thinner cut of meat and has more connective tissue due to the fact that this muscle works harder than other muscles in the animal.

Most of the time it ends up in the grind pile for a lot of people. We have been saving them for years. When they are slow cooked. They are absolutely delicious. Tender and very flavorful.

Smoking low and slow is a perfect way to tenderize this meat. There is very little hands on time because the smoker does all of the work. The only thing you have to possess is patience. Don’t try to rush the process.

Beef or pork have fatty briskets and are a lot larger, so they take eons to smoke. Deer briskets will smoke in a fraction of that time. Because the deer is so lean, it doesn’t require the Texas crutch that beef requires, so it’s much easier.

Trimming the venison brisket

The first key step is to trim the brisket of all silver skin and any large pockets of fat that you can see.

Season the brisket

Next make a delicious rub so that the brisket will take on a great flavor and texture. Make sure you cover it with enough rub.

Ingredients you need

• brown sugar – dark brown or light brown sugar will both work
• granulated garlic – you can substitute garlic powder but granulated has a better flavor.
• onion powder –
• cumin
• coriander
• cayenne pepper – or chili powder, chipotle powder is good too.
• Dutch cocoa powder – optional but this adds a fun mole negro type flavor.Pin
• venison brisket

How to make it

In a small bowl, mix ingredients for the rub. Generously season roast with kosher salt or sea salt and fresh cracked black pepper. Then season it generously with the rub.

If the rub doesn’t seem to be sticking well, drizzle a bit of olive oil on top and then rub it into the meat with your hands.

Cut a large piece of plastic wrap and tightly wrap roast. Place it on a rimmed baking sheet and put it in the refrigerator for 8-24 hours to marinate.

The next day, remove it from the fridge and allow it to come to room temperature. Set up and start your smoker heating to 225°F. Don’t go over this or it will cook too quickly. You could go down to 200°F but realize that it will take a bit longer.

Place the piece of meat on a rack in your smoker. spritz with a mixture of 1 part apple cider vinegar and 2 parts of olive oil or the oil of your choice in a clean, food safe spritzer. Close the lid or door and leave it but be careful tending the heat so it doesn’t get too hot.

Pro tip: We often cook a beef brisket at the same time. If you do this, place the venison under the beef so that the fat from the beef drips on it.

Spray the meat a couple times with the vinegar and oil mixture. If your smoker is equipped with temperature probe, insert it into the thickest part of the meat.

Smoke the brisket for 2-4 hours, depending on the size. This brisket was 2¼ pounds and took about 3 hours. The time will vary according to several factors. How many times you open the door and lose heat, how accurate the thermometer is, how much the meat weighs and the particular cut you use.

Check the internal temperature with an instant read thermometer. Stick a fork into the meat. Turn it a bit. The meat should be fork tender.

Different deer populations taste and cook differently, depending on diet, predators, and terrain. See our ultimate guide to cooking deer for more information.

What type of smoker to use

You can use a wood pellet grill or smoker, an electric smoker or a charcoal smoker to make this deer brisket.

How to warm leftovers

If frozen, thaw in the refrigerator.

• Place slices or a whole chunk in a deep baking pan. Pour venison broth or chicken stock (beef is too overpowering for the mild venison flavor) in the bottom of the pan.
• Cover tightly with aluminum foil.
• Bake at 325°F about 20 minutes for slices. About 40 hour for larger chunks.

You can also warm it in the slow cooker on low for a couple of hours with some stock, BBQ sauce or other liquid.

What to serve with deer brisket

• mashed potatoes
• French fries
• coleslaw
• cornbread
• fresh veggies, like corn on the cob
• BBQ sauce

What to do with leftovers

Leftovers will last for about 4 days refrigerated. For longer storage, vacuum pack and store in freezer for about 6 months.

Venison brisket makes some great dishes with the leftovers.

• Great tacos, quesadillas and the best fajitas
• Great appetizers. Try a toasted crostini topped with cheddar cheese, brisket and grilled onions, like the ones we did in the photo below.
• Make classic mac & cheese with brisket.
• Warm some sliced brisket and make sandwiches or subs with cheese, grilled onions and BBQ sauce.
• Frittatas

More smoking recipes

• Smoked Beef Brisket
• Chipotle Peppers
• Smoked Spare Ribs
• Steelhead Trout
• Smoked Pulled Pork – Finish with Slow Cooker

Tools to use

• smoker
• meat thermometer
• chef’s knife

This venison brisket is a delicious addition to your venison recipe book. Next year don’t grind it. You’ll be happy you didn’t!

Connect with us through our social media ages! Facebook, Instagram, Pinterest, Twitter.

If you have any questions or comments, please ask in the comment section below. We’d love to hear from you!

I hope you enjoyed the recipe today!

Enjoy. And have fun cooking!

1:9, 1:8, or a 1:7?

When it comes to AR-15 barrels…you may be noticing different rifle twists in their specs.

Does it really matter that much?

Will the wrong weight bullet for your twist rate make it fly off into the sunset?

It does matter, but I’m here to make your decision easy and help you understand what it all means.

Bullet Weight Does Not Dictate Barrel Twist

The first thing that needs to be understood is that bullet weight does not directly have anything to do with what rifle twist you should be using in your AR15 barrel chambered in 5.56 NATO or .223 Wylde.

Now before some people start pounding their table, and grabbing pitchforks, let me explain.

Bullet length is what ultimately dictates your barrel rifling twist. If you do a quick google image search, you will find a few different charts or graphs that specifically show bullet weight and which rifle twist you “need”.

While it is a general rule of thumb with weight, in reality, the longer a bullet is, the heavier it becomes.

With newer types of bullets on the market and lead-free designs, some bullets made of copper and zinc are very light but require extra length to achieve the same weight compared to a lead core projectile.

So, the longer the bullet you shoot, generally speaking, the faster the rifling twist needs to be to properly stabilize the bullet in flight. With great stability comes great accuracy. But what does the barrel twist mean?

A Cliff Notes History Lesson

In the early years of the AR15’s development, the rifling twist that was adopted was a 1:14 rifle twist.

The easiest way to explain what that means is that the rifling makes a complete twist 1 time every 14″. Most loads shot through these barrels were a very short, lightweight bullet in the 40-55 grain category.

You can read a more complete history of the M16, but for now, let’s fast forward to the present.

After the adoption of the M16A2, the military started using a 1:7 rifle twist, which was faster. The rifling made a complete revolution within 7″ now instead of 14.” We are talking twice as fast.

The military also adopted a longer, heavier projectile with the SS109 steel core projectiles loaded in the M855 cartridge.

Capitalism at Its Finest

So why are there multiple rifle twists on the civilian market with the 1:9, 1:8, and the 1:7 as stated before?

Short answer: Capitalism.

If you are a red-blooded American, you enjoy the perks of capitalism.

The one drawback of capitalism though is that the market breeds more choices and more decisions. A lot of barrel manufacturers sell all of the top three rifle twists in their barrels, and it can be a little daunting when you are trying to figure out which one to get.

We covered the fact that you need to properly stabilize a bullet, and we have covered a quick history of different rifle twists. Stick with me here, because I am going to make this a very easy decision for you.

A Lot of Bad Info

Out in the unnatural world of the interwebs, you can run into a lot of bad information regarding practically anything. Rifle twist and bullet choice are no different.

When it comes to slower rifle twist, i.e. 1:14, 1:12, 1:9, you really shouldn’t be shooting bullet weights over 65 grains or the equivalent length for a 65-grain bullet. It won’t damage your rifle, but you will have very poor accuracy.

It is absolutely true that heavier, longer bullets in the 69-85 grain flavors like faster rifle twists of 1:8, or 1:7. When someone tells you, “if you want to shoot some operator level Mk262 77 grain OTM ammo, you need a 1:7 twist”, believe that they have your best interest at heart.

But what about an all-purpose twist you may ask?

Maybe you are just like me, and you want a barrel twist that can excel with the heavier 77 grain or 85-grain loads, BUT at the same time you want to get out and smoke some woodchucks or prairie dogs, and you would like a 40-grain bullet to shoot accurately?

Can you “over-stabilize” a lighter bullet with too fast of a rifling twist?

Shoot, Switch Ammo, Repeat

I decided to run through a little experiment with multiple loads of .223 Remington and 5.56 NATO. Ten different loads to be exact. And to make this even more scientific, I did it with two different rifles that both have a 1:7 rifle twist.

The first rifle that I tested is a home-rolled rifle that utilizes a Radical Barrels, LLC 20″ 416R stainless barrel. Rick Hoffmeyer of Radical Barrels, LLC made it for me, and it’s a fantastic barrel.

The optic on this rifle is an ACME Machine 6-24x50mm FFP TR-MOA. For the price, it is hard to beat for a first-focal-plane optic.

The second rifle is a factory Bushmaster Minimalist that Remington had me use on a hog hunt down in Texas at the Spike Box Ranch. (If you ever get offered a chance to go there, don’t think about it. DO IT.) The only thing I added to this rifle was an ACME Machine 1-8x28mm FFP low-powered variable optic.

Glass clarity on this scope is impressive, to say the least. Both rifles used scope mounts from Green Blob Outdoors, and for the price, are exceptionally solid scope mounts that lock down tight.

From the lightest grain bullet to heaviest shot was:

• Hornady 40 Grain V-Max
• Winchester 45 Grain JHP
• Federal 50 Grain JHP (Varming & Predator)
• Remington UMC 50 Grain JHP
• Tul-Ammo 55 grain FMJ (Just for the hell of it.)
• Barnes 55 Grain TSX
• Remington 55 Grain PSP
• Barnes 62 Grain TSX
• IMI 77 Grain OTM Razorcore
• Barnes 85 Grain OTM

Moment of Truth

With ten different loads, all varying from the lightest/shortest to the heaviest/longest projectile that will fit inside the mag well of an AR15, I went about firing 3 round groups with each load at 100 yards to test how well each bullet would do.

I fully understand that some purists may be wringing their hands in the air because I did not do 5 shot groups. I get it. When I really test accuracy for a specific load, I fire 5-10 round groups to really see its potential.

The reality of the situation is that I have kids to feed, and a wife that will literally stab me to death in my sleep if I drain my bank account for ammo. She showed me the knife…

While this isn’t a comprehensive accuracy test for each load, this test shows a good representation of the accuracy potential for each load out of a 1:7 rifle twist barrel.

As you can see from the included photos, there was absolutely no loss of accuracy from an “over-stabilized” lighter/shorter bullet.

Both rifles tend to shoot roughly the same point of impact, varying across the whole spectrum of bullet lengths and weights at 100 yards.

Some conventional “wisdom” would dictate that my accuracy should have suffered greatly with the shorter/lighter bullets with a faster 1:7 rifle twist or worst case scenario tumble through the air and keyhole the target. This just isn’t the case.

Within the normal ranges that most shooters fire their rifles, bullet length and twist should not be a concern if you have a faster 1:7 rifle twist.

What should be a concern though, is feeding your rifle quality ammunition, and making sure your barrel is of good quality if you are striving for accuracy. Ultimately, that is the deciding factor of accuracy when using a 1:7 rifle twist.

Decisions, decisions…

So its time to pay the piper, and make a decision on the rifling twist that will best suit your needs as a shooter. My vote is a 1:7, hands down. With a 1:7 rifle twist, shooting quality ammo, you can go as light as you would like with commercially available ammunition.

A case could be made that “over-stabilization” can bring about issues at extended ranges, but why would you honestly shoot a 40-grain projectile past 300 yards? If you are actually trying for accuracy at extended ranges of 300-700 yards, a 69-85 grain bullet is much better suited for the task at hand.

For up-close shooting drills, or within 300 yards, bulk 55 grain M193 will do just fine as well out of a quality barrel when you are on a budget.

Obviously, your mileage may vary, but generally speaking, if a load shoots like a dumpster fire, more than likely, your barrel just doesn’t like that specific mixture of powder weight and bullet style.

In my opinion, it just makes sense to stick with a 1:7 rifle twist! And now that you know how twist rates affect you, you’ll want to know what the Best AR-15 Ammo: Home Defense & Range is for you and your rifle.

What twist rate is your barrel in? What is your favorite ammo? Let us know in the comments!

By Chris Madson

It was a hurricane. A hurricane 900 miles from the nearest ocean, on the ragged edge of winter with the thermometer hovering just above zero. The day the storm hit, and the night that followed, Dale Engler of Alma, Wisconsin, was out on Crooked Slough, a backwater on the Mississippi River about 50 miles southeast of Saint Paul, Minnesota. The memory still haunted him decades later. “I am very thankful that all I got out of that ordeal was frost-bitten feet and hands, frozen ears,” he wrote in 1963. “I’m not counting all the nightmares I had the first few years after that day. In every single one, I’m still in that icy water, getting weaker and weaker, swimming toward a dark, snow-covered shore that is never there.”

The storm was born in the gray expanse of the north Pacific, a low-pressure system that raised gale warnings along the West Coast during the night of November 6, 1940, and into the next morning. It roared up the Columbia River to buffet the Tacoma Narrows suspension bridge. The bridge’s central span began to sway, and the wind accentuated the motion, like a kid pumping a playground swing. Just after 11 o’clock in the morning on November 7, the supporting cables gave way, and the wreckage of the bridge fell into the water 190 feet below.

The next afternoon, the system collided with the western edge of a mass of arctic air sagging down from Canada over the central plains. It was the first cold of the approaching winter. The storm skirted the edge of the front, drifting southeast into Colorado, strengthening slightly, and then swinging north along the eastern edge of the cold air. By then, a wall of frigid air stretched from Wichita, Kansas, to northern Iowa, and ahead of the cold front, a mass of warm air from the Gulf of Mexico surged up the Mississippi River Valley. Around seven o’clock on the morning of November 11, Armistice Day, as it was known at the time, the storm passed from Iowa into southern Minnesota.

It was the first cold front of the season after a long Indian summer, and it sparked interest among the area’s duck hunters, especially those who were off from work or school because of the holiday. Frank Heidelbauer was a teenager living near Fort Dodge, Iowa. He would later become one of the nation’s premier makers of custom duck and goose calls, but on that morning he was just another young waterfowl hunter looking for birds along Lizard Creek west of town.

“It was foggy with a light drizzle, and warm,” he remembered 40 years later. “I had hunted about three miles of this stretch when a large flock of mallards hooked in out of the murk and landed almost in front of meI took about two steps and they were back in the air and I folded one for each of my three shots. It was while I was picking up these ducks that the wind suddenly thundered down on me out of the northwest.

“In all my days I can’t recall such a rapid change in weather. With the wind came an almost unbelievable drop in temperature, and the drizzle changed to heavy wet snow. Where there were no ducks before, the creek was now full of them, and they were obviously worn out.”

That’s how it was along the prairie creeks in central Iowa. But as the storm continued north it became much more dangerous.

The center of low pressure passed almost 200 miles west of Chicago, but the Windy City and Lake Michigan were not spared. The wind mounted steadily from sunrise through the rest of the day, pummeling the area with gusts over 60 miles an hour for much of the afternoon. Barometric pressure dropped to 28.23 inches—equivalent to a Category 3 hurricane. The temperature at noon was a balmy 63 degrees. By six o’clock that evening, it had dropped to 26. The gale pushed the water of Lake Michigan to the northeast, causing a drop of 4.8 feet along the lakefront. The Milwaukee airport reported a wind gust of 80 miles per hour. In Minneapolis, the wind rose, and then it started to snow, the first flakes of what would be an accumulation of 16.2 inches in a 24-hour span.

As the storm spun toward the upper Mississippi, scores of duck hunters along the river laid plans to take advantage of the cold front. The weather forecast in the Minneapolis Star Journal on November 10 was terse but promising for a waterfowler: “Snow and Colder Today and Monday.”

At 10 o’clock on the morning of November 11, the thermometer in Winona, Minnesota, stood at 50 degrees. A local weather observer recorded a shift in the wind and watched the temperature drop eight degrees in 15 minutes. Around noon, Engler rowed his skiff across the backwaters to an island along the river channel. Like most of the young men along the river at that time, he knew small boats and hunting on the river. It had been raining lightly, so he was wearing a canvas hunting jacket, hip boots over canvas pants, and a wool shirt.

“At 2 o’clock the rain turned into wind-driven sleet and snow and within the next 2 hours I saw more waterfowl than I’ve seen in my life,” he remembered. “About that time some hunters started to go ashore but I thought it was just an early snowstorm and paid no attention, besides, I was having the time of my life.

“Redheads and mallards by the thousands were flying over and on both sides of me. By this time those ducks coming down the river had gusts of a 60 mph tail wind behind them. Hundreds of ducks came past me within 15 feet, probably going around 80 miles an hour. At 3:45 I had 5 mallards and 2 canvasbacks, big plump northern ducks. Now [it was time] to get home and thaw out. Two hunters had been shooting off the south end of the same island I was on. I decided to walk down there and see if they had a big boat. Maybe I could bum a ride across Crooked Slough. Snow was falling so heavily by now that visibility was around 40 feet and it was getting dark. I got to the south area just in time to help both hunters out of the water. Their boat had broached and swamped . . . I saw I didn’t have a chance with my skiff.”

The three men tried to start a fire without success, and Engler decided he would attempt to swim across the backwater and get help. He stashed his shotgun, hip boots, and jacket under his overturned skiff and walked down to the water’s edge.

“I couldn’t see over 30 feet from me as I stepped into the raging water,” he recalled. “The waves were about 3 feet high. Almost every wave was going over my head. I don’t know how long I had been swimming when I bumped into a stump and found I could touch bottom.”

On shore, Engler came across two hunters who had started a large fire. After he had warmed up, he made his way back to his car and drove home, where he called the authorities and reported the position of the two men on the island. “It was the most miserable day I’ve ever lived through,” he wrote, “and I have lived through a few other not-too-comfortable days while serving 38 months in the Pacific with the Navy during World War II. I’ve never been so miserably cold nor felt so close to death as I did in that freezing nightmare.”

Three other young Winona men found themselves in similar circumstances nearby. Ray Sherin, only 14 years old, had gone out to the river around noon with his 20-year-old cousin, Bob Stephan, and 19-year-old Cal Wieczorek. They killed four ducks almost as soon as they hunkered down in the willows, but it quickly became evident that this was no ordinary cold front. Visibility dropped to 30 yards and the temperature was in free fall. They made a run for safety, but with no landmarks visible, they ran aground four times. Then the outboard died. The two older hunters dragged the boat off the mud bar and paddled in the general direction of shore.

The waves drove them onto a low islet. The two men jumped out, but before Sherin could move, a wave broke over the stern and soaked him to the skin. It was clear that they weren’t going to find their way out of the bottoms until the storm abated. Stephan and Wieczorek dragged the boat up out of reach of the waves, turned it over for shelter, and made a bed for the teen, whose clothes were already freezing solid. With no way to build a fire, the three huddled under the boat and waited for morning.

“The thing I remember best was the unending scream of the wind,” Sherin later said of the experience. “The sound of distant gunshots reached us several times. Far-off yells for help.”

At dawn they launched the boat over the 50-foot shelf of ice that had formed during the night. Heading downwind toward Wisconsin, they ran aground on an ice shelf 100 yards from shore. A skiff from the Corps of Engineers’ launch Chippewa picked them up.

Stephan was hospitalized for a week with frozen hands. Sherin, in far worse shape, spent six weeks in the hospital, fighting the lingering effects of hypothermia and extensive frostbite. He lost 58 pounds and part of one foot before he was released, just in time for Christmas.

Two other teenage boys, Dick Bice and La Vern Rieber, paddled out to a collection of low islands and took cover, waiting for a flight. It wasn’t long in coming. As the first bunch of mallards passed, Rieber killed a drake. He paddled out to retrieve the bird and, when he found that he couldn’t get back to his friend, took shelter on another island. The boys could find no fuel for fires on their separate retreats, and precious little shelter.

When Bice’s father, Ray, came home that evening and heard that his son hadn’t returned, he loaded his 16-foot boat and motor, recruited some help, and hurried out to find the boys. The men tried to launch the boat, but the massive breakers swamped it every time they tried. They finally settled down to wait for a break in the wind.

The next morning, another river man managed to slide a boat over the ice to Rieber’s island just as Ray Bice and his party arrived on the scene. The anxious dad slid his skiff over to his son’s island, where Dick had trampled a ring in the snow as he ran in circles to keep warm. He was plenty cold but unharmed.

Others weren’t so lucky.

Responding to news of the impending cold front, Carl Tarras of Winona gathered up his two sons, 17-year-old Gerald and 16-year-old Ray, along with a friend, Bill Wernecke, for a day of waterfowling on the river. When the wind shifted and intensified, they were cut off from dry land and took what shelter they could find in a stand of cattails. Gerald watched the other members of the party die from hypothermia—Wernecke first, then Ray. Carl held on until moments before rescuers arrived the next morning. Gerald had dug part-way into a muskrat house, the rescuers reported, a last-ditch effort that may well have saved his life.

Many details from other stories are lost forever. On the Wednesday after the storm, the bodies of Saint Paul hunters Roy Johnson and Thomas Cigler were discovered, partly covered with snow, on the shore of the mainland. Their johnboat had apparently been swamped by the waves. They made it to dry land but, soaked to the skin and with the wind-driven snow obliterating any landmarks, they had not found warmth and shelter in time. That same day, a Coast Guard searcher came across the body of Red Wing, Minnesota, resident Joseph Elk on an island in the river. On Thursday, the body of another missing man, Bror Kronberg of Saint Paul, was discovered. Kronberg had managed to get his boat to shore in the teeth of the storm, but searchers found his body under the lee of a haystack nearby, where he’d managed to burrow into the hay before he succumbed to the deepening cold.

Estimates of the total number of deaths vary. The National Weather Service reported that 154 lives were lost. Among those, 69 were crew members on ships and fishing boats lost on Lake Michigan. A headline in the Winona Daily News on the Thursday after the storm read “Death Toll of Hunters to Reach 20.” On Wednesday evening, the LaCrosse Tribune’s headline claimed, “27 Midwest Hunters Dead.” With the news of the desperate conflict in Europe clamoring for attention, a close count of the number of hunters who were actually lost during the storm was never made, but it’s likely that, of the 85 people not drowned in Lake Michigan, more than half were waterfowlers on the upper Mississippi.

Seventy years after the great storm, the children and grandchildren and great grandchildren of people who witnessed it still speak of it in hushed tones. It’s as if they miss something that has largely disappeared from the heartland. The corn country of the upper Midwest has been domesticated. Cut over, fenced, furrowed, converted from prairie and forest to one of the world’s great food factories, it has lost much of its essential nature. But the great weather events remainthe thunderstorms, tornadoes, hail, and blizzards that lie in wait just over the horizon, reminders that some things are still beyond our control.

It takes no great leap of imagination for a modern waterfowler to understand why hunters went out on the big water that day. They were an adventurous lot, that bunch. Like us, they whined about the bluebird days most of their neighbors welcomed, praying instead for a stiff north wind, a threatening sky, and a thermometer in free fall. While the rest of the town retreated to the fireside and drew the curtains tight, they went out to meet the storm and the waterfowl that rode it.

They witnessed a day when the business of men, and even the carnage of war, was overshadowed by the raw power of land and sky. It overcame some of them. For many more, it became the memory of a lifetime. All the wildfowl of a continent seemed to gather on a single arctic gale, the roar of the wind and the rush of wings an anthem to all that was—and still is—wild and free.

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Alaskan moose is one of the largest moose among the deer family. Their height often exceeds 7 feet. The largest recorded moose height is about 7 feet 7 inches high which is an inch taller than the world’s tallest NBA players.

Did you know that the average height of a human male is about 1.77 m tall, while the average height for moose ranges from 1.4 to 2.1 m?

This article covers the size of moose compared to humans and much more!

How Big Is a Full-Grown Moose?

From hoof to shoulder, moose have an average height of six feet, i.e. 1.8 meters. The height range is from 5 to 6.5 feet at the shoulders.

The size of the head and the body of a moose ranges from 7 feet 10 inches to 10 feet 2 inches. Their vestigial tail is between 5 to 12 cm long.

Male moose are larger than female moose, with a weight of 380 to 700 kg (838 to 1,543 lbs). On the other hand, the weight of females ranges from 200 to 490 kg (441 to 1,080 lbs). ~ Source

How Big Is the Largest Moose in the World?

As we already know that the Alaskan moose are the largest subspecies of moose. So, the largest moose ever recorded was also from the Alaskan subspecies.

The largest recorded moose weighed nearly 1808 pounds and was 7 feet 8 inches tall. This moose was shot in September 1897. ~ Source

However, there have been reports of other larger moose, for instance, a male who weighed 2299 lbs and was shot in 2004.

Another male moose that was shot later in the 2000s weighed nearly 2601 lbs.

Note: There are no authentic sources to confirm these records.

Moose Size Comparison According to The Types of Moose

Moose sizes vary depending on the subspecies of the animal. The difference is mainly attributed to adaptation to local conditions. North America is home to four subspecies of moose.

Here is a comparison of the size of moose based on their subspecies:

• Alaska Yukon Moose:

This is the biggest subspecies of moose in terms of size. The heaviest weight ever recorded among the moose family is nearly 1808 pounds. ~ A-Z Animals

Even Alaskan moose antlers measure about 80 inches across.

• East Siberian Elk

Moose based in Eurasia are among the biggest species of moose on the planet.

There is a very small difference in the sizes between Alaskan moose and East Siberian Elk. these moose weigh more than 1600 pounds.

• Yellowstone Moose:

Yellowstone moose inhabit North America. They are the smallest subspecies of moose, weighing just 1000 pounds!

• Moose Subspecies in Amur:

Amur is situated near the border of Russia and China. This region is known for being home to the smallest subspecies of moose. These animals are almost 6 feet tall.

How Big Are Moose Compared to Humans?

Moose is the tallest creature compared to other members of the deer family. Fully-grown moose are way taller than the world’s tallest humans.

The average height of a moose is nearly 6.5 feet, while the height of a male human being is just 5 feet 7 inches.

The height of the Alaskan moose crosses 7 feet at the shoulder.

Overall height crosses 10 feet when the antlers and the head of the moose are added. This is massive, even if compared to the world’s tallest human, with a height of 8 feet 11.5 inches.

How Big Are Moose Compared to Horses?

Horses are measured to the ridge located between their shoulder blades. The average height of a horse is 5 feet 4 inches. Considering the height of a moose, it has been observed that a moose is a foot and a half taller than a horse.

The height of horses is also variable just like the heights of different subspecies of moose. The tallest horse ever recorded had a height of 82.75 inches which is just an inch shorter than 7 inches.

So, the world’s tallest horse is about as tall as a male Alaskan moose. Yet, the world’s tallest moose is 9 inches taller than the world’s tallest horse.

Although moose are bigger than horses in size, moose tend to have a lower body weight than horses.

Horses’ weight ranges from 120 to 2200 pounds, while the weight of a full-grown moose is about 1600 pounds.

How Big Is a Moose Compared to a Bison?

Bison is another mighty herbivore that can compete with a moose in terms of size.

This animal measures 6.5 feet tall at the shoulder, which is almost as tall as a cervid found in Yellowstone.

The adult male bison weighs 2000 pounds, meaning it is much heavier than a moose. A bison weighs twice as much as a Yellowstone moose.

How Strong Is a Moose?

Moose are heavy-bodied creatures with a very strong pair of front and hind legs. They use their sharp hooves to stomp people or animals to death.

Did you know? Moose are responsible for nearly 1500 road accidents in Canada, Alaska, and New England. These animals can cause serious injuries and even death which shows how strong they are. ~ A-Z Animals

Bull moose are specially equipped to fight and ward off other moose, especially at the time of mating. They have huge shoulders and their neck muscles double in size during the rut.

Bull moose have very thick forehead skin, which protects their skull from injuries during the rut.

Thanks to their fast-running speed, they can easily knock down a human being and possibly even injure them seriously. They use their strong legs to kick predators and run from them.

What Is the Size of a Baby Moose?

Newborn moose weighs approximately 30 pounds. Baby moose tend to eat a lot.

Estimates have shown that baby moose eat a lot to gain weight. Calves consume more food in summer than in the winter to prepare themselves for the long winter months when food is scarce.

Research has also shown that baby moose gain a pound of weight on a daily basis and might even put on 4 pounds daily in the spring and summer months.

FAQs

What do you call a baby moose?

A baby moose is called a moose, while male moose are known as bulls and female moose are called cows.

How much does a moose weigh at birth?

When calves are born, they weigh 25 to 35 pounds and are reddish brown in color.

Conclusion

Changes in the temperature of the earth affect all creatures living in the Northern hemisphere, including moose. Hunting is also a major life threat to these unique animals.

Action needs to be taken to protect these creatures as their population numbers decline. This article helped answer your question regarding the size of moose.

To see the Benelli M4 in action, check out the video above. For more gun content, make sure to subscribe to Pew Pew Tactical on YouTube.

Tactical shotguns are favorites among the home-defense crowd, known for their reliable performance and ability to adapt to close quarters environments.

And the Benelli M4 is no exception. This Italian 12-gauge has a reputation for being a solid autoloading shotgun with style, unlike most others.

But what makes this shotgun so good?

Well, we’re going to find out today as we explore the legendary M4. Spoiler alert: it’s a beast.

I’m going to run you through the specs and features; then, we’ll take it to the range here in my home state of Tennessee and at Thunder Ranch in Oregon.

By the end of this article, I might just have you convinced why I think the M4 is one of the best combat shotguns on the market.

So, if you’ve ever caught yourself gazing at the M4 and wondering, “what if,” keep reading…

Let’s get the boring stuff out of the way first.

The M4 is a 12-gauge automatic shotgun with a barrel that sits at 18.5-inches. It eats 2 3/4 or 3-inch shells and comes in a few different models.

Mine happens to be the anodized black version.

It weighs in at a hefty 7.8-pounds with an overall length of 40-inches.

Controls sit where you expect, with the cross-bolt safety located where you need it.

Some say the bolt release is a little small, but I think it’s okay.

The ergonomics are fantastic on this shotgun. That over-molded pistol grip feels big and solid — perfect for handling heavier loads.

(By the way, I think for a combat shotgun, you need to go with a pistol grip.)

On the front, the M4 shipped with a plastic front grip.

It was okay, but I opted for an aftermarket M-LOK handguard so I could add a flashlight down the road.

As far as aesthetics, the M4 looks great.

The Benelli branding is minimal and super clean – though I have no idea why an Italian gun has an American flag on it. Regardless, I like it.

It didn’t come with much, just a box and the gun itself. So, I added one of our own Pew Pew Tactical Flatline rifle straps and a red dot.

ARGO

As I mentioned, this gun is a beast. It runs and runs well, but what makes it all work?

At the heart of the M4 rests the Auto-Regulating Gas-Operated system.

The ARGO system offers a short-stroke, dual-piston design. It was originally created and approved for use by the U.S. Marines in 1998.

And this bad boy thrives on heavier loads. Not to mention, the pistons are self-cleaning.

But if you do need to clean it, it all field strips super easy with no tools. It’s a ridiculously simple design.

Personally, I love that it is self-cleaning, not because I’m afraid to clean a gun. But because it runs clean.

The M4 will run forever in the field, and you won’t have to worry about reliability.

Why So Expensive?

Get the aloe, y’all…this is going to burn.

Depending on the setup, MSRP on the Benelli M4 comes in between $2,000 and $2,300.

Street price is $1,800 to $1,900 unless you want the collapsible stock…which is unobtanium.

And if you do find one, expect to double the price of the gun.

Full disclosure, I paid full pandemic price for mine – buy once, cry like six times.

Why is this gun so darn expensive?

Blame it on the Italians, man. Italian shotguns have long held the reputation for being premium builds with top-of-the-line pricing.

While $2,300 seems steep, compared to other Italian guns (like Beretta’s DT11 topping out at $20,000…no typo there), it’s kind of a steal at $2K.

But really, with the M4, you pay for the reliability.

This shotgun will literally go through the apocalypse with you. You can’t stop it.

And that tends to be well worth the price, especially if you consider it for defensive purposes.

With all that said and done, let’s talk about how it did at the range…

How Does the M4 Shoot?

I took the M4 to Thunder Ranch for a private shotgun class with Clint Smith.

TV Guide version: it feels like a precision machine – smooth and easy.

Back home in Tennessee, I used Kent number 7 alongside some higher brass turkey loads, which I think are Winchester.

One of the things I like about this gun is the trigger. It’s short, light, and crisp. No complaints here.

Combat loading on the M4 feels super clean. You just drop in a shell, hit that release, and you’re ready to rock and roll.

The rubber on the stock and the overall weight eat a lot of the recoil, meaning you can run this all day without needing to see your chiropractor.

Accuracy-wise…it gets the job done. I mean, the Marines use it for a reason. I brought out a bag of Granny Smith apples for my testing because blowing stuff up with shotguns is a good time.

I also used rifled slugs to touch out to 100-yards.

How’d she do? Just fine. Again, smooth is the word of the day, and that’s how she ran.

Even with the stock iron sights, the M4 just works. I eventually added a Sig Sauer Romeo 5 to mine, and that ups the ante.

(If you need some optics suggestions, check out our guide to the Best Red Dots for Shotguns.)

Downsides to the M4

Now, everything has a downside. There’s no such thing as perfect, and the M4 has a flaw – the capacity.

Because of our wonderful government and 922R nonsense, all M4s come as a 5+1. That’s kind of lame.

Also, you may hear guys on the internet say the M4 doesn’t do so well with light loads. In my experience, it eats light loads just as well as it eats the big stuff.

Again, it’s durable and built like a tank, but it’s heavy. Fully loaded, it sits at over 10-pounds, so eat your Wheaties.

Also, once more, there’s the price. This gun ain’t cheap.

And the aftermarket goodies are high too. The entire M4 market is a little out of control. Blame John Wick. And the Italians. And the Marines.

But speaking of the aftermarket…

Benelli M4 Upgrades

One of my favorite things about the Benelli M4 is the upgrades…there’s a lot! From foregrips to magazine tubes to optics and lights, you can customize what you want.

Need some help getting started?

Off the bat, swap out the standard sights for some Meprolight Night Sights.

Then throw on a red dot. I used the Sig Sauer Romeo 5, but the Trijicon RMR works too.

While we’re talking optics if you want to mount the optic low enough to co-witness with irons, grab a Scalarworks Mount.

Remember how I said it has a low capacity? You can work around that with a Mesa Tactical Sureshell Carrier.

Also, grab an M-LOK handguard to throw on some accessories. One of our other writers, Travis, prefers the Strike Industries Hayl Rail.

In fact, Travis has a whole article dedicated to his favorite Benelli M4 upgrades.

By the Numbers

Reliability: 5/5

Some guys on the interweb have complained about trouble with birdshot. For me and multiple thousands of rounds of birdshot, the M4 is perhaps the most reliable gun I’ve ever run.

Ergonomics: 4/5

The big grip is fantastic, and the controls are solid. The foregrip it comes with is so-so but is an easy replacement for something bigger.

Accuracy: 5/5

Rifled slugs at 100-yards? Fuggedaboutit.

Customization: 5/5

The aftermarket for the M4 is robust, albeit overpriced — lots of options for magazine tubs, night sites, rails, handguards, and more. OK, maybe not as many options as we’re used to in the AR world…but for a shotgun, the Benelli is the top of the heap for dialing in your gun.

Value: 4/5

You get a LOT for the price. But boy, that price…

Overall: 4.5/5

This is a little odd because I call the M4 the best combat shotgun on planet Earth…so shouldn’t it be a 5/5? Well, that price is painful, and it’s heavy. And I think most folks will want to swap out a couple of things on their stock Benelli. So yeah, it’s a crazy solid gun…but still sitting at a 4.5.

Conclusion

Benelli’s M4 stands as a shining example of what a good Italian auto shotgun can do.

Far and away, it’s the best combat shotgun on the market. This autoloader looks great, runs smooth, offers up a certain cool factor, and you can trust your life to it.

It earns two huge thumbs up for me. Without hesitation, I recommend you run out and buy an M4.

PPT Writer, Travis Pike, contributed to this review.

Again, to see the Benelli M4 in action, check out the video below.

What do you think of the Benelli M4? Let us know in the comments below. For more combat-style shotguns, make sure to peep our list of the Best Home Defense Tactical Shotguns.

I’ve written a bunch about the act of nymph fishing, but I haven’t talked much about nymph flies themselves. Using a nymph while fly fishing is probably the most effective method of catching trout. It doesn’t have the glamor of dry fly fishing, but nymphing can change a skunk into a productive outing.

What is a Nymph Fly?

A nymph fly is a fly fishing lure that simulates a sub-surface bug with a hook in it during the larval stage. Mayflies, damsels fly, stone flies and caddis flies start life as eggs on the stream bottom. The eggs hatch into a nymph or larva and become a prized meal for trout.

Examples of Nymph Flies

• Pheasant Tail Nymphs in size 10 through 16. These flies should be in every fly box. Proven effective, and easy to tie if you’re a fly tier. Get a couple with beads and you’ve got most situations covered.
• Hares Ear Nymph in size 12 through 18. I like using a hare’s ear as a dropper in size 16 off a buoyant dry fly. The light color of the hare’s ear simulates so many bugs. If you want to fish this nymph a little deeper find flies with brass beads.
• Green Caddis size 10 to 16. When the trout are keyed into green caddis you’ve got to fish them deep and on the bottom. I’m always amazed at how vibrant green these nymphs are.

Tips for Selecting an Effective Nymph for Fly Fishing

A common quote in fly fishing circles goes like this. So what are they biting on? Those little brown flies about 3/8 inch long with a hook inside.

This hits home the important factors in selecting a nymph fly. If you pickup a river rock or submerged log and get your nose down close and look. If the water you’re fishing has trout, odds are you’ll see lots of little brown bugs crawling around.

Here’s the tip: Size up those creepy crawlies you see under rocks and woody debris and select a fly that’s close in color and size.

Green Caddis are really common on my home water. I’ve learned through years of experimenting that the best nymph for me to start out with are those green beauties.

How to Fly Fish with a Nymph

The simplest way to start nymph fishing is to use an indicator. Basically rig up a longer leader 9 to 12 feet is best. An indicator is a float that can be positioned along the leader. I start by placing the leader 3 times the water depth when fishing in a moderate current. Tie on a fly like the hares ear or green caddis and hang on!

Read more about nymphing with an indicator in this article. What is a strike indicator in fly fishing

Another method is called “high stick” nymphing. This method uses a fast sinking nymph fly and fish relatively close (10 to 15 feet away) Instead of letting the fly drift in the current, while high sticking the angler actually leads the nymph through the fishy water.

I’ve written a great article that goes into all the details of high sticking. How to High Stick Nymph Fly Fish

If you see occasional trout rising, setup a dry fly with a dropper nymph. This combination can be super effective, and you can get a double hook-up. I like the floating lead fly to be something like a Elk Hair Caddis or a Yellow Humpy. The hollow hairs used to tie these flies help them float. If you can remember treat these flies with floatant before getting to the water. If you give the floatant plenty of time to dry they’ll float longer.

I wrote an article all about rigging up a Dry/Dropper in this article: How to Setup a Dry Fly with a Dropper for Fly Fishing

Recommended Fly-Fishing Gear for Fly Fishing Nymphs

If asked I would say the number one item I would recommend is a nice fly rod. Behind that a decent selection of flies followed by fluorocarbon leaders and tippet.

I really believe in investing in getting the right gear to fly fish. You might plan a trip for weeks and you’re excited about the chance to catch a trophy. When nymph fishing fluorocarbon leaders and tippet is an inexpensive way to improve your odds to netting that trophy.

Nearly invisible and stronger than nylon in the same diameter fluorocarbon lines have less stretch making them more sensitive. Pick-up a couple fluoro leaders and tippets – highly recommended.

Fly Selection – in one way you could say an item that costs between $1-$3 is cheap. Having 2-5 fly boxes filled with 100s’ of flies is an investment. To fish nymphs effectively you will lose flies. Trout like to hide in wood and around rocks so snagging and breaking-off will happen.

Fly rods above 9 ½ feet in length excel when nymph fishing. Water current speeds vary across the top of the water and through the depth. The more fly line that can be held off the water will minimize the amount of drag/pull inflicted on the fly.

Longer fly rods also enable the fly fisher to “reach-out” into little pockets of trout holding water. Example: those back eddies behind a boulder

Tips from Fly Fishing Guides When Using Nymph Flies

Many times, when you’re not catching anything the first thing you do is switch out the fly you’re using. DON’T SWITCH – if you’ve picked a fly that remotely resembles the natural bugs – FIRST add a little bit of weight. Nymphs and fish are on the bottom, your fly needs to be close to the bottom as well.

Bouncing a nymph on the bottom will dull a hook fast. Regularly check the hook for sharpness and carry a hook file to re-sharpen.

Add a little bit of tippet length to get down deeper. Nymph fishing is way harder that dry fly fishing on the surface. Usually you can’t see the fly, in turn you don’t know what’s happening. Adding tippet length until you start ticking on the bottom will improve your hook-ups.

Set the hook often. Learn to strip set whenever you even think the fly has paused, ticked or changed direction. Fish learn to spit-out anything that isn’t food – SUPER fast.

The strip set is a method of tightening the fly line and hooking a fish without completely pulling the fly out of the water.

How to strip-set: The key is to keep your rod tip stationary. I hold the rod with my right hand and have the fly line in my left.

To set the stage, your nymph is drifting nicely with an occasional tick on the bottom. Then you see a pronounced pause in the line – with your rod tip stationary QUICKLY jerk/pull the fly line back 2 feet or so with left hand.

Another benefit of the strip set is that often after striking you can continue drifting the fly through the holding water without re-casting.

More Articles about CATCHING Fish on a Fly Rod

Learn the ins and outs of catching Brook Trout in this article: How to Fly Fish for Brook Trout

A perfect summer evening for me is fly fishing for Bluegills. I detail the steps in this article: How to Fly Fish for Bluegills: A Complete Guide

Read about my favorite fly rod – especially for nymph fishing in this article. The Best Fly Rod, Reel and Fly Line for Nymph Fly Fishing

The John Breen Buck, shot in northern Minnesota in 1918, is considered by many whitetail experts to be the greatest typical ever, despite the fact that at 202 net B&C points he’s several notches down the list from No. 1. This isn’t an attempt to take anything away from the incredible trophies that outscore him, but few other typicals can approach this buck’s “shock value.”

Back in 1903, John took a job as a store clerk in the northern Minnesota town of Bemidji. At that time, a vast area of logged-over woods lay between there and the Canadian border 100 miles to the north. Transportation in the region was difficult, and the use of a horse and buggy was still common. From Bemidji, a railroad ran northeastward all the way to the border town of International Falls. Some 30 miles from Bemidji, the tracks went through the small town of Funkley in Beltrami County. And, that’s where whitetail history was made.

“People who lived north of Bemidji liked to catch the train and ride it into town to do their shopping,” said Ray, John’s youngest son. “In those days, you could flag the train down anywhere along its rout and ride it for two cents a mile. For a lot of people, it was a real treat.

“One of Dad’s customers, Knute Week, lived up near Funkley, at a flagstop place known as Hopt. He would come into Bemidji every so often to do his shopping. Week had access to some good deer hunting land up near Funkley, and he invited Dad to go up and hunt with him,” Ray recalled.

One cold day in November 1918, while two of his sons were overseas fighting in World War I, John grabbed his rifle and gear and hopped aboard the train for Funkley. When he returned home a day or two later, he had with him a deer so large that even back then it cre­ated quite a stir.

“I still can remember when he brought it home,” said Ray, who was 12 at the time. “He had quite a time getting it back to the house. He had to bring it down to Bemidji by train; then he had to get a horse and wagon to transport it from the depot to our house. The story that I always heard was that he was on his stand with his .30/30 rifle when a bunch of deer came by. Several does were being chased by a buck. He raised his rifle and started to shoot at the buck. All of a sudden, he saw this great rack of horns coming through the woods, so he took aim and shot this big buck instead.

“When he got the buck home, everybody came by to see it. A lot of people made a big fuss over it. The rack was so big that even in those days everybody knew that it was something special. The rack was so wide that we had a hard time getting it through the front door of the house.

“Dad knew his buck was really unusual,” Ray added, “and he was awfully proud of it. After much deliberation, he decided to have it mounted. He sent the antlers over to a taxidermist in Duluth—a man named Story. Mr. Story took one look at those antlers and offered him $50 cash for them. Now, $50 was a lot of money back in those days, probably equal to about half a month’s wages. Dad turned him down flat. That deer meant too much to him.

“It seemed like we ate on that old buck for weeks,” Ray added, “and he was one tough old boy. The deer was thin and gaunt when Dad brought him home, despite the size of his antlers. He was a big-bodied deer, and I remember people saying that he weighed well over 200 pounds. Dad tried to give away some of the meat, but it was so tough that nobody wanted it.”

John died in 1947 at the age of 81. Several years later, B&C introduced its new scoring system, and at the urging of friends, the family decided to have the head officially measured. With an unprecedented net typical score of 202 points, the Breen Buck immediately became the world record typical, even though he suffered heavy deductions for non-typical points. The Breen Buck held the record until 1964, when the James Jordan Buck was recognized as a new No. 1 typical.

During the late 1960s, an antler col­lector from the East Coast wrote the Breen family and asked if they wanted to sell the rack.

“His name was Dr. Chuck Arnold, a dentist in Boston,” Ray recalled. “He wasn’t sure whether we spoke English or not, so he wrote to us in both French and English. He said he collected antlers, and he offered us $1,000 for the rack. After talking it over, we decided not to take his offer because we didn’t want the antlers to leave northern Minnesota. After all, Dad’s trophy was Minnesota’s largest typical whitetail of all time (a position the deer still holds today), and we felt it should remain in the state. However, by this time, the old mount was beginning to show its age. For a while, we let it hang in a local store, but most of the time, it hung in our house.

“We talked to sev­eral different museums about possi­bly taking the trophy, but at the time, no one seemed to have much interest in it,” Ray added. “Then, in 1970, Dr. Arnold wrote to us again. This time, he offered us $1,500 for the antlers. He promised us that he would take good care of the trophy and that he would see to it that it got the kind of recognition it deserved. We talked it over and decided to take his offer.”

Dr. Arnold did indeed take good care of the buck . . . and avid whitetail hunters everywhere are glad of it.

The exceptional fact about the Breen buck is that its gross typical frame scored 215 0/8. Six small abnormal points kept this buck from being the world record. Without those points the buck would have had a net score of approximately 210.

The main beams measure 31 2/8″ and 31″ in length, with 6″ bases. The 26 7/8″-wide rack has outstanding tine length and is truly a masterpiece of nature. When compared side by side with similar scoring giants, any hunter would pick this buck as number one!