I’ve always associated the plant called deer heart with my times hunting Sitka blacktail deer in Southeast Alaska high country, which is something I’ve done pretty much every August since I was a kid. It’s a small, fragile plant that consists of a single heart-shaped leaf attached to a stem that usually doesn’t grow much higher than six inches. Deer heart grows from sea level, where it’s most tender and nutritious early in the summer, to mountain tops, where it’s best to eat late in the season. Deer follow it and other vegetation up mountains as summer advances. By mid-September, when deer heart is all but dead in the high country, deer descend to lower elevations for better browsing.

Last August, during a hunt, I came upon a deer I’d shot lying on a deer heart-covered bench, with semi-pulverized pieces of the plant in its mouth. There was an ethereal slant to the evening light, the sort that illuminates subtle, hard-to-see details of the landscape. I was surrounded everywhere by deer heart, except where there were cliffs, rockfaces, and the occasional clump of stunted mountain hemlock. I am frequently caught off guard by how something as seemingly simple as shifting light can reveal in an instant how miraculous the world is. I plucked a heart-shaped leaf and stuck it in my mouth. It’s peppery, like arugula, but has an aftertaste that oscillates between good and a little strong. I’d never thought a lot about deer heart, other than using the amount of it browsed as a gauge for where to hunt deer, and to try not to slip on it when it’s raining. I looked from the fields of deer heart to the dead animal, wondering why it’s so easy to become preoccupied with certain things while being blind to so much. I thanked and apologized to the deer, then sliced my knife through the hide along the backbone from the base of the skull to the tail. I cut one side of quarters free, peeled off a backstrap and, before removing a side of ribs, severed the heart and lay it upon its namesake plant.

It was dark by the time I hung my heavy game bags from a branch of a mountain hemlock. During the night I listened as the wind made the tent shudder and bushes crackle. I thought about brown bears. I washed off the deer’s blood the best I could and peed and spat around the tent, but I still smelled “delicious.” Years before, I left a trail camera on a salmon stream that had a high number of bears fishing on it a few miles from where I was hunting. As an experiment, I peed in front of where the camera was pointed to see how animals would react. I returned a few days later and found that most of the images showed bears running away, looking terrified. A young bear even dropped the salmon it was carrying in its rush to get away. One large bear, however, behaved differently. It came during the night and, instead of fleeing, crawled like a cat toward the camera. I imagined that animal crawling toward the tent and thought about becoming meat.

At home, I organized the deer meat in trays divided by roasts, steak, and scraps I’d grind into burger. I trimmed the bones; later, I’d render broth from them. My two young sons—one a toddler and the other three and a half years old—“helped” by sawing on meat with butter knives and dropping pieces of burger meat into the grinder. I sliced a heart thin and doused it with sesame oil and Montreal steak seasoning. When it was done, we snacked as I wrapped meat in freezer paper. Some people do not like the taste or texture of heart. It’s always the first part of the animal I eat, which is in a large part because it does not freeze well. It’s also delicious and, more than that, evocative of much of what I love about life in Southeast Alaska.

Three years prior, my wife and I gave our eldest son his first solid food. We wanted our kids’ first tastes of food to be of something we loved, that came from the streams and forests where we live. First we mashed up blueberries, then we tried coho salmon. It had not gone over well. Not long after, I brought a deer home and fed our son small bits of fried heart. He devoured them.

Once we had a couple of deer, as well as a good supply of salmon in the freezer, it was time to go berry picking. When the next sunny day came, we headed to one of our favorite blueberry patches in the mountains. I carried our toddler in a backpack. As we hiked a trail to a field of deer heart, his brother demanded, and constantly added details to, a story about dragons from his mother. Though it was only the third week of August, most of the plants were showing the first signs of brown. After placing the boys on drier ground where they could play and pick berries, my wife and I set to filling our buckets.

Food gathering, whether hunting or berry picking, is probably the most meditative activity I know. For a while I picked alone, my thoughts quieting as I focused on filling my bucket. Occasionally, the boys would punch or bite each other and scream and cry. Other times they giggled as they wrestled and popped blueberries into each other’s mouth. When I checked on them, they were taking turns smashing blueberries on each other’s heads, both of their smiling faces stained purplish red, sitting amidst deer heart.

The pickings were pretty good and after a couple hours we had a few gallons. I joined the boys and their mother on a small plateau covered in deer heart fringed with bushes heavily laden with blueberries. The light on the mountains had that same ethereal quality, revealing cracks and fissures worn by time in rockfaces and millions of deer hearts surrounding us.

It was hard to walk away from something so good. I placed my younger son in his backpack and, before leaving, searched for a tender looking deer heart. Near where a deer had been browsing, I plucked a leaf and then placed it in my mouth. I slowly chewed, its enigmatic taste engulfing my taste buds, as I followed my wife and older son down the mountain.

Originally published in Issue No. 26, Winter 2022

There’s no shortage of hunting adventure in the largest state east of the Mississippi River. Whether you’re a seasoned peach-state hunter or just passing through – there’s something for everyone. All you need is a hunting license to access these wild public lands.

Big Hammock WMA

Glennville – Tattnall County

A squirrel hunter’s paradise. All but 1,000 acres of this WMA is dominated by large acorn bearing hardwood forests. Twenty miles of foot access trails wind through swamp allowing hunters to quietly slip through the area that is very navigable even for beginners. There’s plenty of room for more adventurous hunters to journey “uncharted territory” where you may not even see another hunter, too. Don’t knock squirrel until you try it! There are some great squirrel recipes out there and the season runs from August 15th til the end of February.

Coopers Creek WMA

Suches – Union County

Chase some game in the foothills of the Appalachian Trail at Cooper’s Creek WMA. Part of the Chattahoochee National Forest, you’ll have 30,000 acres of beautiful mountain scenery to hunt on. Muzzleloader season is a fan-favorite offering great chances to harvest deer, bear, or hog. For a complete primitive experience, there’s plenty of opportunity for camping alongside mountain streams stocked with trout. Not in the mood for camping? No problem. You’re only a short drive from nearby Blairsville.

Crockford Pigeon Mountain WMA

Lafayette – Walker County

Put this place on your hunting destination bucket list. Crockford Pigeon Mountain is your one stop shop for a herd of quality hunting opportunities. Turkey and deer are on the menu for hunting success. You may come to the area to hunt, but you’ll fall in love with its beautiful natural features. Gorgeous overlooks, refreshing waterfalls, miles of trails await your arrival. There’s something here for all of the approximately 200,000 people a year who visit this natural wonder in the WMA system. Don’t worry hunters, the area is closed to all non-hunting activities while hunting is going on for safety.

Elmodel WMA

Newton – Baker County

Looking to shoot a few doves this season? C’mon down to southwest Georgia. Elmodel WMA has the Division’s only irrigated dove field complete with seventy-four acres of corn, sunflower and peanuts. There’s also another 100 plus acres of non-irrigated fields planted with sunflower and brown top millet you can drop a limit of birds on. Believe it or not, there is some good dove hunting after opening weekend. Late season hunts here have not only cooler weather, but good harvests!

Penholoway Swamp WMA

Jesup – Wayne County

Don’t let the name confuse you. There’s more than just swamp at Penholoway. From easily accessible upland pine and wildlife openings to a 6,000 acre boat only accessible island full of bottomland hardwoods. Whatever you flavor, there’s something for every hunter to try and nab the rabbit, turkey, or deer they’re after. Spend a day in the woods hunting the dramatic bluff line that divides upland and bottomland habitat. The property features so much early successional habitat (weed patches necessary for critters) that it’ll feel gamey just driving through it.

Sprewell Bluff-East WMA and Sprewell Bluff-West WMA

Thomaston – Upson County

Sprewell Bluff is the best option for anyone looking to take home some deer meat. Split by the Flint River, each side of the property has something to offer. The East side of the area offers archery deer hunting while the wild West side offers firearms opportunities.

Have questions? Here’s some hunter resources to help answer them. Want to find more areas? We have over a million acres of public land and we are certain that there is a WMA for you! Check out our interactive map to find what is special about all 100+ of our WMAs.

Hello from South West France,

Firstly many thanks for supporting BBR on Patreon, it is very much appreciated and certainly helps support me with the site and YouTube channel.

Your question is an interesting one and somewhat interestingly, based on the details I have managed to uncover, the answer as to which version of the Vortex Viper HD 8×42 binoculars is best is not completely straightforward:

I actually have reviewed the old version (SKU VPR-4208-HD): Vortex Viper HD 8×42 Binoculars Review, so I do have experience with them, but as you say the old version has been superseded as I made that review about 12 years ago now, when I was still pretty new to testing binoculars!

Whilst I really did like those Vortex binoculars, I unfortunately no longer have them with me, nor do I have the new version, so I can’t compare them side-by-side for you. But let’s take a look at the facts and see if we can draw some conclusions from that:

I did indeed first ask the BinoWizard if he could get some details for me:

BBR: Hi BinoWizard, can you compare all the main specifications and features of the old VIPER HD 8×42 binoculars (sku VPR-4208-HD) versus the current model for me: VIPER HD 8×42 binoculars (SKU V200)

BinoWizard: Certainly! Here’s a comparison of the main specifications and features of the old VIPER HD 8×42 binoculars (SKU VPR-4208-HD) and the current model VIPER HD 8×42 binoculars (SKU V200) based on the information provided on the respective product pages:

Old Vortex VIPER HD 8×42 binoculars (SKU VPR-4208-HD):

1. Magnification: 8x
2. Objective Lens Diameter: 42mm
3. Prism System: Roof prism
4. Lens Coatings: XR™ Fully Multi-Coated
5. Field of View: 347 feet at 1000 yards (6.6 degrees angular field of view)
6. Close Focus Distance: 5.1 feet (1.55m)
7. Eye Relief: 20mm
8. Interpupillary Distance 59-75 mm
9. Weight: Weight 24.2 oz (686g)
10. Dimensions 5.8 inches (14.7cm) x 5.3 inches (13.4cm)

Current Vortex VIPER HD 8×42 binoculars (SKU V200):

1. Magnification: 8x
2. Objective Lens Diameter: 42mm
3. Prism System: Roof prism
4. Lens Coatings: XR™ Fully Multi-Coated
5. Field of View: 409 feet at 1000 yards (7.8 degrees angular field of view)
6. Close Focus Distance: 6 feet (1.83m)
7. Eye Relief: 18mm
8. Interpupillary Distance 55-74 mm
9. Weight: Weight 24.5 oz (695g)
10. Dimensions 5.6 inches (14.2cm) x 4.9 inches (12.4cm)

Optical Components & Coatings

BinoWizard was able to help with the basic specifications but was not much help when I quizzed him further about the specifics of the optics used. It is not really his fault as the AI can only go by what information is supplied and published. However, as humans, we can make some assumptions:

ED Glass

We know for sure that the old Viper HD binoculars do use Extra-low Dispersion (ED) glass in the lenses because the product page on the Vortex Optics website states the following “premium HD (High Density) extra-low dispersion glass” which helps in reducing chromatic aberration and enhancing color fidelity, sharpness, and contrast in the images.

However, the product listing on the new Viper does not specifically mention ED glass anywhere, only that it uses the Vortex HD optical system.

It is a strange omission, and I could not find an official statement from Vortex to state what exactly their HD system refers to, but I asked BinoWizard, and this is what he came back with:

I quizzed him about where he got this info from as it does sound very much like manufacturers marketing jargon lacking in specific details, unfortunately, it was not much use:

BinoWizard: I apologize for any confusion caused, but I don’t have direct access to the internet or specific web pages. The information I provided about Vortex’s HD optical system is based on my training on a diverse range of data, including product descriptions, reviews, and general knowledge about optics. It’s important to note that while I strive to provide accurate and up-to-date information, it’s always a good idea to verify details and consult official sources, such as the manufacturer’s website or product documentation, for the most precise and current information on specific products.

Anyway, based on the BinoWizard’s information and the fact that Vortex Optics also advertise their higher-end Razor binoculars like the Vortex Razor HD 8×42 as also using their HD optical system, which I know used ED glass, I think we can assume that these new Vortex Viper HD’s do probably have ED glass in their lenses.

I would also like to include that whilst there may be some minor differences in the exact glass and coatings used, my guess would be that the overall level of optics and thus the resultant observable quality of view will be very similar.

Optical Specifications

What is certainly different is the optical pathway and lens configuration as the fields of view, close focus distances, and eye relief are different and these would be noticeable if you were to compare the views side-by-side. Which is best will depend on your specific needs and preferences.

Field of View

Measuring 409 feet wide at a distance of 1000 yards which equals a viewing angle of 7.8 degrees, the new Vortex VIPER HD 8×42 binoculars (SKU V200) are what I would describe Wide Angle Binoculars and they offer a substantially wider view than the old version (347 feet at 1000 yards (6.6 degrees).

For most people, this would be the preferable choice, but especially if like you, you are after a good birding binocular as this helps make it easier to quickly locate and follow small fast moving objects… like birds.

Eye Relief & Close Focus Distance

However, in order to achieve this wide view, Vortex has obviously had to compromise the amount of eye relief and it has also resulted in a slightly longer minimum focus distance.

Having said that and whilst it is true that the old versions are better in both these areas, the new version is still pretty good.

The 18mm of eye relief should be sufficient for most users who need to wear glasses, but if you do have thick glasses and or they sit far from your eyes, then the improved 20mm of eye relief you get on the old Viper could be important.

The close focus distances will only really be an issue if you specifically like to view objects from a very close range and if so, there are better binoculars for this purpose – for example, the Pentax Papilio II 8.5×21 Binoculars

Body Design, Materials & Components

I was not able to find out any details in regard to the chassis materials and whilst the styling is somewhat similar there are some differences:

The overall dimensions and weights are different, but none are big enough to warrant talking about.

In terms of style, I personally prefer the look of the older version, especially the eyecups, eyepieces, and focus wheel, but this is mostly just my personal preference.

Although having said that, the older focus wheel was an all-metal exterior, whilst the new one has a rubber track and I think is made of plastic. This does not mean the focus mechanism will be any different, but I do feel metal ones look more premium.

Conclusions

I think the overall styling and build quality of the older Vortex Viper HD 8×42 binoculars (sku VPR-4208-HD) was probably a little better, with more metal parts.

However, the very wide field of view on the new Viper HD 8×42 binoculars (SKU V200) is hard to ignore, especially as a birder.

Either way, I think both sets are certainly much, much better than the 411 EUR you have paid for them, so I am sure you have a good deal no matter which you choose.

Comments from Vortex

Just to let you know that I have also reached out to my contacts at Vortex to see if they have anything to add. I will include them here as soon as I get any.

Editors’ review

The Bowtech General was added to the Bowtech 2008 lineup. With an ATA just over 31″, an 8 1/4″ brace height, and a 315 fps IBO, this rig was quiet and was a premier hunting bow. Because of limb problems, Bowtech issued a voluntary recall on all the bows and replaced the limbs, and discontinued making the bow. The General is still one of the best bows ever designed by Bowtech. This bow is slower than todays speed bows, but should be a consideration if the shooter is looking to make a purchase. Since the limbs have been replaced, the only reason not to purchase this rig is because you feel you have to have the newest bow on the market.

Finish

This rig was designed with the Realtree Hardwood Green In-Velvet coating. Archers order this rig in Realtree APG HD, Advantage MAX-4, Mossy Oak Obsession, Mossy Oak Treestand, or Mossy Oak Brush. This finish is still used today and provides a rubber-like feel and enhances the vibration dampening properties of the bow.

Risers/Limb

This rig came with a fully machined forged riser providing strength and stability. The riser also has a short pivoting leg at each end which provides the center point for the pivoting limb. This “leg” provides some movement along the limb to aid in maximum bend for shooting stability. The limbs for this bow are a 12″ center pivoting split-limb system that are machined out of a unidirectional fiberglass. This particular material is known for its strength and durability, making it perfect for bow limbs. There is virtually no limb pockets. The limbs are secured to the riser and use a pivot point where the riser supports the limb at a midway point. This provides additional limb stability and allows the limb to bend more from the midpoint out to the cam. This design helps the bow generate more power while dissipating the shock throughout the rest of the bow. This bow also used Vertical Force Technology, which was introduced in 2002 and basically meant parallel limbs. It was not long before other bow manufacturer realized that Bowtech was onto something revolutionary. The General was only one of the Bowtech rigs that boasted this technology.

Other Components

This bow came with BCY 452X strings, a Short Stop integrated string stop, roller guard cable guard, center pivot limb pockets, and a hush kit. As this rig is no longer in the Bowtech lineup, if the archer is looking to purchase one, it will be used. This means that it will most likely have a host of add-on components.

Eccentric System

This rig used the Center Track Binary Cam System. This cam system generated the speed produced by the General. This cam system not only provided excellent speed for 2008, but also was able to provide that speed without creating any bow torque. The General boasted an IBO of 315 fps. A test bow, straight out of the box, setup for 70# draw weight, 29″ draw length, and shooting a 360 grain arrow chrono’d at 285 fps. Although not right on IBO, but very close. Draw length can be adjusted by changing the draw modules. The modules will allow for adjustments in 1/2″ increments. When changing the draw length of the General, it is necessary to adjust the draw stop as well. Adjusting the stop post will allow for additional draw length adjustments in 1/16″ increments. It is also very important that the shooter not try to adjust the draw stop while at full draw.

Draw Cycle/Shootability

Pretty smooth draw throughout the cycle to a solid back wall. At full draw, there is no bow creep. However, if the shooter must let off the shot, they should use caution. The shooter will have only about two inches of movement toward letdown, and then the bow will pull with a lot of force and accidental release is a real possibility. It is very difficult to hold on to.The draw weight of this rig is based on the peak weight of the limbs, and adjustability of up to 10# from there. The limbs come in weights of 50#, 60#, and 70#. Any adjustment from there is done simply by loosening the limb bolts. The archer must be careful not to loosen the limb bolts too much. This rig was a very shootable, quiet, and accurate bow, but limb problems caused Bowtech to voluntarily recall the bow to repair the issues. Bowtech eventually discontinued this rig. If an archer can find a General on the used market, they should be wary and have the bow checked out prior to purchase to ensure the repairs have been completed. Any authorized Bowtech Dealer can perform this inspection.

Silencing Package

This rig is quiet out of the box. The slightly heavier riser, the In-Velvet finish, the string stop, and the hush kit make this bow very quiet. Even when shooting a light arrow (at or near IBO) there is almost no noise from this bow.

Comparisons

The Bowtech General can be compared to the Bowtech 101st Airborne. Even with the limb problems the General had before the recall, it was still one of the best overall bows ever designed by the guys at Bowtech. The 101st, although a good bow in its own rights, was never a flagship quality rig. The 101st is an overall bigger bow with five more inches ATA. The brace height of the 101st is slightly shorter at 7 3/16″ instead of the 8 1/4″ of the General. The 101st also offers an additional 20 fps than the General, but does not compare when it comes to quietness, smoothness, and accuracy. Since neither of these bows are in the current Bowtech lineup, they both must be purchased used. Because of this, the shooter can definitely find either one of these bows in a price range that they are comfortable paying. The limb issues encountered by the General have been corrected, but the purchaser would be advised to have it checked out to be sure. Although this issue has been corrected, the General still carries the stigma of limb problems that some just can’t get over.

Usage Scenarios

This rig was designed specifically as a hunting rig. It will fit well on a target course or a 3D range, but make no mistake, it is a hunting bow. When originally designed, the designers at Bowtech were looking for a rig that was fast, quiet, and smooth. They found this in the General, and it was their flagship bow in 2008. With an IBO of 315 fps, this rig is fast enough, and is quiet enough to fit any hunting situation.

Value

When this bow first hit the market, it sold for around $849. They can be found used today for as low as $250. Although this rig was involved in a voluntary recall by Bowtech, the limb problems that caused the recall should have been fixed. If you can find a Bowtech General and the limbs have been replaced, this rig is a very good bow to purchase. There still are very few bows that are as quiet as this bow, although there are quite a few that are faster.

Summary

The guys at Bowtech were looking to create a rig for the hunter that was fast, quiet, and smooth. They eventually came up with the General. This bow not only met the call, but did so with no vibration or noise. With an ATA of just over 31″ and a brace height of 8 1/4″, this bow is accurate, fast, and consistent. The Center Track Binary Cam system provides a smooth draw and an IBO of 315. This is about 15 fps slower than the average bow today, but in 2008, it was respectableThis rig is adjustable as well with a draw length range of 26″ – 30″ in 1/2″ increments, and a draw weight range of 40# – 70#. The limbs are the primary determinate for the draw weight with the weight being adjustable to 10# below peak weight of the limbs. This rig was added to the 2008 lineup, but shortly into the year Bowtech voluntarily recalled the bow as it had received 255 work orders for defective limbs. Although they recalled all the bows and replaced the limbs, the damage had been done and they discontinued the bow. The shooter can still find them for sale online. The limb issues should have been corrected, making this a very good bow to have in your arsenal. The shooter would be advised to have the bow inspected by an authorized Bowtech dealer prior to purchasing the bow just to make sure it didn’t slip through the cracks when the recall took place.

Chester White Pig Pros And Cons

When thinking of pigs and the icons among them the Chester White has been severely overlooked. A colonial legend, this pig breed has been around for almost two centuries.

In heartland U.S.A, Chester County Pennsylvania, the larger than life and charismatic Chester White was born and bred on every pig farmers land in the county.

Originally known as the Chester County White, the unique breed is a product of the Woburn Pig which mated with other white pigs that were brought over from England to America somewhere between 1815 and 1817.

This Breed has the iconic pinkish white colouration like the pot belly and Yorkshire breeds, but usually present bulkier and grow quite large.

In 1890, the unification of the American Chester White Record Association and the Standard Chester White Record Association into the “Chester White Swine Record Association” saw the permanent recognition and moderation of this sought-after breed in America.

One of the many reasons this breed became so popular in the states among farmers is this pig’s ability to gain mass at an incredible rate. When conditions are optimal and the right quality food is used, the pig can convert 1.4 kg of grain into 620 grams of weight.

Thus, this breed is quick to increase flesh content which is known for a savoury taste and high-fat percentage. In a video, by Akudinulo Farms it is explained that these pigs are the “king of crossbreeding” as they represent all the desirable intermediate traits of the races that precede them.

This crossbreeding king has thus set a standard for modern pigs to adhere to in terms of flavour and family values.

A well-known consideration for pale pig owners is the fact that these animals require permanent access to shaded areas to avoid getting sunburn. Sunburn in livestock such as pigs can have deleterious effects on their health and well-being.

Despite these concerns with white skinned breeds, the Chester White Pig is the most durable of the pale breeds when considering this qualm. These breeds are known for their docility as well as other trait associated with positive sociality towards humans and other animals.

These pigs are wanted for their brilliant mothering abilities, which is essential for producing healthy generations of future mothers and fathers. With an iconic white belly and slightly dished face, this breed has superior bone density and structure when compared to other breeds.

The feet of these pigs are often used as a good indicator of overall animal well-being, as they tend to indicate how well these animals are being fed when considering the age that the trotter indicates.

A statement of an animal, these larger-than-life pigs are iconic when one thinks of the classic big hog, but what makes a Chester White a Chester White?

The defining characteristics between selection bred animals can get complex, but typically a Chester White will have a completely white coat with no significant colour variations, and drooping ears within a few days of births are also a strong indicator.

The texture of the coat is associated with a straight hairstyle rather than a curly one. When viewed from the side, a Chester white has a flat (horizontal) to slightly arched back.

The legs are stretched with good body depth without obstructing walking excessively. Strong hind legs with straight hinges and smooth ham forms are also charismatic in the breed.

The white and clean look of the fat and flesh when packed into meat production is associated by farmers and marketers alike with good taste and high quality.

The highly efficient and nutritious nature of this pig breed, combined with its desirable reproductive habits, will see that the Chester White remains an important breed in the world of Pig Farming for the foreseeable future.

Chester White Overview Table

Size Medium-sized

Mature weights:

Female: 227-295kg

Male: 250-363kg

Personality Docile breed of pig with high intelligence. Temperament Kind and easy to bond with. These pigs are selected for their kind mothering nature. Tendency To Bite When compared to animals of the same social stature these pigs have a very relaxed calm nature with low to no tendency for biting. It is to be considered that all pigs can bite painfully and first aid attention might be necessary in such a case. Dangerous? Because all pigs have tusks and can grow to a considerable size, they are to be respected and treated with admiration. However, when respected and comfortable, these animals pose no danger to humans. Tendency To Root? Their social nature and low energy personality mean they have a low tendency to root. Maintenance 6/10

These animals require basic clean shelter food and water with shaded shelter during summer months. They are not particularly high maintenance.

Family Pet 3/5

They could potentially be wonderful pets and only have their size and spatial requirements to consider as setbacks.

Intelligence These animals have been selected for their gentle nature and before this selection, these animals have evolved highly social cognitive abilities making them exceptionally intelligent for a domesticated farm animal. Exercise Needs Low to moderate. If these animals are offered mud and stimulation such as tyre toys or hay bales, they should have more than enough to be happy with. Health Issues Health considerations for this pig breed include skincare and caution when the animal is kept in a tropical area with a high UV index. They are also quite fatty animals, making exercise very important. Life Expectancy These animals are relatively short-lived but given proper care and attention they will live six to eight years. Price Approximately six dollars per pound

Chester White Pros

Hardy animals

Apart from desirable traits associated with the breeding behaviour of this animal, it also is known to thrive in relatively extreme environments. The most durable pale breed, it can withstand temperatures associated with arid environments, such as South Africa’s Northern Cape province where they are successfully farmed.

However, an animal that produces that much fat and protein while living in warm environments are ultimately faced with a temperature problem. The key to their thermoregulatory success is in the fact that they are a relatively medium-sized pig breed.

This intermediate size provides them with a body surface to volume ratio that is not too low to not let heat escape, and not too high so as not to let extra moisture escape.

Intelligent

They are intelligent animals that can adapt behaviourally to escape intense heat when the necessary shade is provided. In suitable conditions with relatively low maintenance, these pigs are quick to reward owners with high yields in both flesh and litter.

Docile

Since the ham and loin make up approximately 58% of the animal’s body, this is especially good for Chester White’s as their energy stores and nutrients are accumulated in these areas, giving them their characteristically delicious salty taste.

Family animals

Their keen senses and evolutionary development have given them the ability to communicate using pheromones secreted in saliva. The males often use this as a medium to signal mating urges and communicate other social cues which helps these animals’ bond.

Chester White Cons

They need stimulation

In the case of poor living conditions or neglect, these animals with their large intellect can sometimes develop some dysfunctional traits. Without stimulation or the necessary social bonding, it is not uncommon for pigs to become aggressively territorial.

They could be dangerous

If these pigs are neglected to the point of deleterious behaviour trait forming, they could pose a danger to people they meet. A wound sustained from these animals would typically not be fatal if medical treatment is available.

Not the most popular breed

Typically used for bacon, chops, or sausage meat the Chester White is surpassed in popularity only by breeds such as the Duroc and Yorkshire.

Need shade

Where this breed falls short is as with many other pale breeds in that it is susceptible to sunburn and associated health impacts. Without sufficient shade these pigs are in danger of dehydration and in the worst-case scenario, prolonged sun exposure can lead to skin cancer in your pigs.

Slow growing

When compared to their more popular cousins like the Duroc and Yorkshire, these pigs are relatively slow-growing and contain more fat per unit of body mass. Although they have a reputation for being durable, it is vital that these pigs are taken care of as far as their hydration needs are concerned.

Need a lot of water

These large animals require significantly large amounts of water just to thermoregulate and keep their bodies from overheating. Thus it is essential to fit a filtered trough with clean water into the habitat of your Chester White.

The Chester White is famous for being

Tips and facts for potential owners

a good mother. Producing litters of up to eight or more piglets, these animals are adapted to being patient and kind when it comes to feeding and tolerating their young.

The breed also has a great track record of being kept in spaces that are shared with other animals. They will often play or engage in social activities if given the chance.

The historic legacy of Chester County has a rich multi-faceted story to tell about how the Chester Pig has both its genetic and naming origins in the U.K. T

he first pigs in the valley came along much earlier from Swedish and Dutch settlers who introduced the first landrace white pigs, and ancestors of the Chester White.

More than a century ago the literature source known as the Chester White Journal was founded in 1910 by three elder sons of F.F. Moore: Fred, Levi and Jim.

Even though they are considered a “medium” sized breed, the Chester White is often entered into the Largest Boar competition in its hometown of Chester, where it competes and wins against supposedly larger breeds.

Conclusion

With its roots in Europe and the U.K. and made famous and powerful in the land of the free, the Chester White Pig is a classic All-American hog with flavour to boot.

Excellent in terms of meat quality, and extraordinary when it comes to mothering, this animal is obviously an incredibly important part of the human success story.

In many ways this pig ticks the iconic boxes of what we think of when we think modern-day pig, and not only that its kind nature and nutritional excellence is a testament to what we as a species has accomplished in the field of agricultural technology.

The beauty of these creatures lies somewhat in the fact that they can be perceived as so much more than just sustenance. With large brains and many other human-like features, this animal can surprise us with its emotional depth and capacity to form long-standing interpersonal bonds.

Their slightly smarter cousins are known to be used in organizations such as the FBI to sniff out narcotics as well as serve as emotional support animals. Clearly, the versatility of these incredible creatures has made impressions across the globe in more than one way.

Pale-faced and pretty, this humble hog will probably be around on pastures and plates for many generations to come.

There is nothing better than going out into the wilderness, relaxing, and target shooting with your friends and family. While it is nice to be out in nature shooting your guns, there are many dangers in doing so if you do not take the proper precautions.

When you are at a standard range, they take make rules and enforce specific precautions for you to follow. The biggest benefit in utilizing a range is that you have targets that you can hang up in a safe area, you can bring the target to you without having to put yourself downrange, and there are walls in between you and the people next to you shooting, which helps ensure a controlled environment.

Unfortunately, the outdoors and shooting with a group of people in an open environment is not necessarily the most controlled and safe environment to do so. One potentially hazardous scenario when shooting outdoors is ricochet bullets. In this post we look at whether choosing to hang a target on a tree is a good idea.

So, Is Shooting a Tree Safe to Do?

In general, shooting at trees is not a safe practice. Not to mention, this practice may harm or destroy trees in doing so. Damaging natural resources, especially on public lands, is often illegal in the United States. Shooting into trees can cause a ricochet to occur, which can cause your bullet to come back and hit you, someone, you are shooting with, or valuable personal property.

Will the Bullet Ricochet Off of the Tree?

Shooting at a tree can cause the bullet to ricochet off and change direction. While trees are softer than rocks and metal, they still can cause your bullet to bounce and sometimes come back at you. It is impossible to project the trajectory of the bullet if a ricochet does occur. This is extremely important to keep in mind because when you shoot it may not just be yourself who is in the line of fire.

Factors Impacting Whether the Bullet will Ricochet

Depending on how close you are to the tree, and what type of gun you are shooting, there is a risk of your bullet changing direction to come back at you which could cause you, or your friends and family to be shot by the stray bullet causing injury or worse.

If you are extremely close, you could run the risk of also having the tree splinter off in your direction causing some nasty cuts and splinters. While numerous factors will impact bullet ricochet, two of the most impactful factors is the type of tree being shot and what caliber of gun is being used.

Does the Type Of Tree Matter?

There are a ton of different types of trees in our national forests. Cedar, pine, oak, redwood, and many other types of trees that can be found in a forest. It typically will not matter what type of tree you shoot into, but there are some types of trees that have a “harder” wood core than others, so your chances of ricochet might go up depending on what you shoot at. Oak trees tend to be much more hardwood than a cedar tree.

Pine on the other hand is a softer wood. Keep in mind that the softer the tree is, the more likely the tree will be damaged by you deciding to shoot it. Even if you have shot at a “softer” tree in the past without issue, it does not guarantee your safety in the future. Something as simple as a knot in the tree can send your bullet flying right back towards you or a loved one.

Does The Caliber of the Gun Matter?

When thinking about tree damage and ricochet, the higher the velocity of the bullet, the more chance you have for it to bounce or ricochet. Shotguns utilizing bird shot at a distance will probably have the lowest ricochet potential because they are a scattergun, and the lead pellets are normally pretty soft. The problem with shotguns is that they can do a lot more damage to the tree. The typical bullets you will want to use extreme caution with are going to be 9mm, 45, 22, and larger caliber guns. High powered rifles might actually go completely through the tree causing it to hit something else.

Below is a video of a bullet ricochet that occurred after shooting a brick at 10 yards.

How Does Shooting a Tree with a Gun Hurt It?

Trees are living things, so just like if you shot a real person, shooting at a tree can injure it. It may not kill the tree after one, two, or even thirty shots, it is certainly not great for it. While you might not think this is a big deal, there are US laws that prevents you from harming trees and foliage, which could land you a hefty fine, and possible jail time.

While trees cannot instantly react to harm being done to them, over time they can stop producing fruit, seeds, and even oxygen, which is an integral part of the ecosystem. There could also be wildlife living in the tree, and if you shoot it and it dies, the wildlife might have to move, especially if the tree dies and falls over.

While we do not want to tell you what to do, at least think of what you might be doing when you shoot at a tree. It is difficult to measure the outcomes of these types of decisions over time.

If you love the outdoors, it is your responsibility to protect the resources that you value. The number of active hunters and people who fish are continually decreasing and being a good steward of the activities we love is becoming more and more important.

Safer Target Options than Shooting at a Tree

Mentioned above, going to a quality indoor shooting range can be a safer choice than going outside and slapping a target onto a tree. Shooting outdoors is also a safe option if the proper precautions are followed. Risk cannot fully be eliminated during an activity such as shooting, but the risks can be reduced. Three other safer outdoor shooting options include:

• Shooting a free standing target in front with a hill as a backstop.

• Shooting at a soft object, such as a box, with a target on it with a hill as a back stop.

• Shooting a target in a large open field with a slight up-trending grade behind it.

All of the above options helps to ensure that the bullets shot will end up striking the ground after passing through the target. This provides peace of mind that the bullet will not continue on and strike someone a distance away from where you are. Ricochets could still technically happen, it reduces the risk of it occurring.

In Summary

There are tons of options for target shooting in the woods other than hanging targets up on a tree. Always be aware of your surroundings and find a safe spot for you and your friends to shoot without causing any damage to the forest or each other. Find a nice place with a good backstop so that it will stop your bullets and not have any issues of ricochet. Always clean up your mess, never leave any targets or used bullet casings in your spot when you leave, and above all else, enjoy yourself!

It’s coming quick this year – ice season. Often early ice can be one of the best times of year, so let’s get ready!

We use two types of rods when ice fishing for walleyes. One is for jigging and one is a dead stick, which is simply hanging a bait in a secondary hole.

One of the things that makes catching walleyes tricky is the way they bite. They don’t really bite a bait, they suck it in. As they move close to their prey, they open their mouth, flare their gills and suck a volume of water, hopefully containing your bait, into their mouth. Then with their sharp teeth they hold the bait in their mouth, waiting for it to quit struggling while determining if they want to swallow it. If they detect something is wrong (bad taste, too much resistance, wrong texture) they just open their mouth, slam their gills tight and blow the bait out. The problem is this can all happen is less than a second!

So as a walleye angler, we need sensitivity in our equipment to not only feel a soft bite, but to feel it quickly and then set the hook before the walleye spits out our offering.

The hookset can often be problematic with walleyes, as their mouth is very boney. To set the hook point into their mouth you have to make your lure move inside the mouth, so it can drive into those bones. With a walleye this can often be difficult because of the way they are holding that bait solidly in their teeth. A hard, solid hookset, is imperative.

Lastly, the rod needs to be able to handle the fight of a walleye. Since the rods are short, normally less than 3-feet, you don’t have a nice long bow in the rod to take up the head shaking of a big walleye. These head shakes are amplified by the use of no-stretch lines (see below). So, a good walleye ice rod needs to be able to absorb the pull of the fish.

It is also important with this short length be able to keep continuous tension on the fish, so it can not throw the bait. Add to that the issue of having to fight the fish up through a small hole and you must have the right action to consistently land fish.

Jigging Rod

This is the rod you’re working by popping, dropping, jiggling, and pounding as you try to entice a walleye to first get interested, and then to strike. We use a couple of different rods for jigging. The Clam Ice Team Professional Series 26” Medium Action Walleye Rod and the JT Outdoors 30″ Gold Digger are great all-around rods. For targeting bigger walleye, we use the JT Outdoors 34″ Black Reign. All of these rods have similar attributes. The shorter ones are particularly good in one-man shacks like the Clam Legend XL Thermal and the longer rods for bigger shacks like the Clam X200 Pro Thermal.

These rods are all super sensitive and lightweight. When fishing in cold conditions, walleyes often don’t hit the bait very aggressively, once again, they are just sucking it in. Also, many times you will be getting bites as the fish chases your bait in an upward direction, so it is hard to detect the bite because they are pushing slack in the line as they bite while they swim toward you. You’ve got to be able to feel them to move on to the next step – setting the hook!

To increase sensitivity, we use a no stretch line as our mainline. The best choice out there is Berkley NanoFil. NanoFil is a uni-filament line, meaning it is a single strand of no-stretch material with no braiding or weaving. The no-stretch attribute greatly increases your ability to feel what is often a subtle bite. The beauty of uni-filament is that it does not retain water in the line, so ice build-up is greatly reduced. Nothing dampens sensitivity more than a big glob of ice on the line! The ice that does build up on NanoFil is on the outside of the line and is quickly taken off with a single sweep between your fingers. For walleye fishing, 8-10lb NanoFil is best.

Often in ice fishing conditions, the water is much clearer than in summertime. There is no algae or sediment from wind to cloud things up. For this reason, you will want to use a Fluorocarbon leader to make the line that is tied to the bait nearly invisible. We use a small #14 to #18 swivel to attach the NanoFil to the Fluorocarbon leader. The length and pound test of the leader depends on conditions. If you are targeting larger fish, then lean towards a 10lb leader made with Berkley Professional Grade 100% Fluorocarbon. For smaller fish or in super clear conditions, you might go as light as 6lb Fluorocarbon. A standard leader length is 2-feet, although in gin clear water a 4-foot one is not uncommon.

The nice thing is that you can rig your reel one time with NanoFil and then adjust your leader to the situation. You can even quickly change to a 2-pound leader if some nice crappies happen to show up! A power hookset can be achieved with these rods because they all fast taper. This means that only the last few inches of the rod have a lot of bend. Since the majority of the rod is stiff, it has a strong backbone and thus amazing hook setting power.

With the few inches on the end of the rod being extremely flexible, you have some rod bend during the fight. It is a very specific action to get the right power in the backbone but flexibility in the tip, and these three rods nailed it!

Dead stick

There are a couple instances when we use dead sticks. The first is when walleyes are in a finicky mood. Often hanging a rod with a simple jig and live minnow in a hole next to where we are jigging produces better than the jigging rod. Jigging is still important to draw the fish in, but we see it on our Lowrance HDS units all the time, a walleye comes in and looks at the jig rod, doesn’t bite, but fades over to the jig and a minnow and slurps it in.

Second, we are also big proponents of using JT Outdoor Hot Boxes for our dead sticks. These boxes have a propane heat source in them to keep the hole clear of ice, so they can be set up remotely from our shacks. They are very portable and quick to set up. These boxes really give us big advantages! If you are fishing a flat or basin area by spreading out lures similar to how you would use planer boards in the summer, you can multiply your results. If you are fishing structure it is nice to be able to set up rods in several depths. Try jigging in a shack at the top of the break with a Hot Box set at the middle or bottom of the break to cover several depths.

In any situation, the big difference between a jigging rod and a dead stick is that you’re are not typically holding the rod to detect the bite. The walleye is going to suck the bait in and either hold it while determining if it is going to eat it, or it will slowly start to move away. Since there is a delay between the bite and the hookset you need to use a much more limber rod for this set-up. Enter the JT Outdoors 36” Walleye Snare Rod. This is one of the coolest rods out there for ice fishing! It is super flexible at the tip to about half way down the rod. You could call this rod action Slow Taper. The idea is that the walleye will suck in the bait and feel little or no resistance from the rod. Remember too much resistance will make them want to spit the bait.

The Snare Rod has a built-in red ball at the end of the rod, so even at a distance you can see the slightest bite as the rod tip and ball will move slightly down. When you get to the rod at this point, a solid sweeping hookset will double over the Snare Rod enough to get into its strong backbone and drive the hooks home! We have never seen another rod on the market that duplicates this rods ability to trick a walleye into holding on to a bait with its limberness, but still have the hook setting strength of a Snare Rod!

Sometimes, especially with Hot Boxes it might take a while to get to a biting walleye. What’s interesting is that you will catch a surprising number of fish that sit still and hold on to the lure a long time. The other thing that may happen is that once the walleye determines its ok to eat the bait, it will typically swallow the bait a little deeper and it will start to move away. Correspondingly the Snare Rod will double over even more. Often the red ball will even touch the water!

This is where things get interesting. As the Snare Rod bends more and more, it also starts putting more pressure on the fish. Many times the fish will make a sudden move to try to get away. This move often puts the Snare Rod into its strong backbone and the fish will literally set the hook by its self – thus the name Snare Rod! One big advantage of the Snare rod, is once the fish is hooked up, you’ll have all kinds of flex in the rod and fish rarely get off.

Set up the Snare with the same Nanofil mainline and don’t be afraid to drop down a size or two in your leader pound test, this is a more finesse technique, so a lighter leader will often allow the minnow to swim more actively on a light jig.

Two rods, same result – The Next Bite!

Fishing always seems like a simple, laid-back event. It’s usually a family-bonding experience accompanied by a slow, leisurely boat ride and a picnic. You catch a few fish, maybe grill some, then release the rest.

As with most things, there are outliers to this stereotype. Instead of a calm and easy affair, an angling trip can also turn into a strenuous game of tug-of-war between you and a giant inhabitant of the seas.

Regular-sized fish may be the norm, but there are also people who have caught large, record-breaking creatures with just their trusty rod and reel. Here are some of the largest fish ever caught over the years.

3,427-Pound Great White Shark, New York, 1986

The biggest fish recorded to be caught on rod and reel is a controversial one. In August 1986, Frank Mundus and Donnie Braddick caught a 3,427-pound great white shark off the coast of Montauk in New York.

The two anglers were reportedly using a 150-lb test line on a group of white sharks. According to a 2005 recounting of Mundus himself, their fight to reel in the shark went on for a total of one hour and 40 minutes.

A Controversial Record Breaker

Unfortunately, the catch is considered to be controversial. There are accusations that Mundus was only able to catch the great white shark after fishing by a dead whale. The dead whale allegedly attracted the sharks, which allowed Mundus and Braddick to bait and reel it in. This violates the record rules of the International Game Fish Association (IGFA).

However, according to Mundus, his boat pulled up to an already dead whale. By his account, the whale had large bloody bite marks the size of peach baskets and still had blood coming out of its mouth. He claims he and Braddick waited by the whale until midnight, when two sharks slammed into the whale.

IGFA-Approved Honorable Mentions

Although the 3,000-plus pound great white shark that Mundus and Braddick caught is tangled up in some controversy, there have been plenty more large catches over the decades that are recognized and approved by the IGFA.

The five official largest fish ever caught on rod and reel while saltwater fishing are the following:

2,664-Pound Great White Shark, Australia, 1959

The contested and official largest fish caught on rod and reel are both great white sharks but are almost 1,000 pounds and over 30 years apart.

The official IGFA-approved record is held by Alfred Dean, who caught a 2,664-pound great white shark while angling in Ceduna, Australia back in April 1959. Since great white sharks have become a protected species today, this record-breaking catch will likely stay unbeaten for years to come.

1,785-Pound Tiger Shark, Australia, 2004

The next largest fish ever caught by an angler using only a rod and a reel is another shark caught much more recently. This time, it was a tiger shark weighing 1,785 pounds and 11 ounces. It was caught by Kevin J. Clapson in ULladulla, Australia in March 2004.

This catch is tied with another record-setting catch from 1964 by Walter Maxwell. The only difference between the two catches was 11 ounces, leading the IGFA to rule in favor of a tie.

1,708-Pound Greenland Shark, Norway, 1987

In October 1987, Norwegian angler Terje Nordvedt caught another large shark while angling in Trondheimsfjord, Norway. He used a herring as bait to reel in a Greenland shark. The fish weighed a total of 1,708 pounds 9 ounces.

Greenland sharks are one of the largest living species of sharks in the world. It can grow up to seven meters or 23 feet long and live up to 500 years old, based on radiocarbon dating.

1,560-Pound Black Marlin, Peru, 1953

The next largest fish ever caught on rod and reel is a welcome change from the shark family that dominate the top three spots. Taking the fourth spot is a gigantic black marlin caught off the coast of Cabo Blanco in northern Peru in August 1953.

The 1,560-pound black marlin was caught by angling legend Alfred C. Glassell, Jr., who used a 130-lb line class and bait. This catch is one of the longest-standing IGFA world records. This particular fish can still be seen as part of a permanent exhibition in the Houston Museum of Natural Science.

1,496-Pound Bluefin Tuna, Canada, 1979

Another non-shark entry rounds up the last spot in the top five largest fish caught by rod and reel. In October 1979, renowned heavy-tackle angler Ken Fraser used a mackerel as bait to reel in a 1,496-pound bluefin tuna. The huge fish was caught in Aulds Cove, off the coast of Nova Scotia, Canada.

This region is known for its bluefin tuna fishery. However, Fraser’s heavy-tackle angling record remains unbeaten to this day.

Making It Big

When it comes to saltwater fishing, a huge part of what gets you catches the size of those on this list is luck, patience, and perseverance. Of course, having the best fishing tackle matters too.

Increase your chances of catching record-breaking fish with Rite Angler’s high-quality tackle. We offer products designed for success and made with anti-corrosive materials for better durability to withstand stormy seas, the blazing sun, and the biggest catch.

Rite Angler has been the partner of many fishers and anglers since our founding in 1990, providing reliable terminal tackle and other fishing equipment for men and women serious about improving their fishing game.

Check out our website and order superior lures, lines, and tackle for your next fishing trip, today!

As a camping enthusiast and engineer, I can tell you that upgrading your RV batteries to lithium is one of the best decisions you can make. Lithium batteries for RV are better than lead acid batteries in so many ways that once you decide to make the switch, you would be asking yourself why you didn’t do it before!

In this guide, I will go through the best lithium batteries for RV that you can buy right now!

Now, let’s get straight to the best RV lithium batteries! Then I will also explain the different types of lithium batteries available and why the LFP (LiFePO4) is the most popular choice for RVers.

Best lithium batteries For RV

Here are the best lithium-ion batteries for RV available to purchase right now:

1. Battle Born LiFePO4 Deep Cycle Batteries

BEST OVERALL

Looking for the best lithium batteries upgrade for your RV? Look no further than the Battle Born Batteries LiFePO4 Deep Cycle Battery!

With this sleek lithium-ion battery, you’ll have the ultimate power solution that’s designed to last and packed with features that make it the top choice for all your off-grid needs.

Equipped with a built-in Battery Management System (BMS), this battery provides the best protection against common battery issues. It also offers superior charge and discharge capabilities, outpacing other batteries on the market.

And weighing just 29 lbs, it’s a lightweight option that can be securely mounted in any position.

When it comes to lithium batteries and off-grid applications, Battle Born Batteries LiFePO4 Deep Cycle Batteries are simply the best choice!

Don’t just take my word for it, check out the rave reviews! RVers, boaters, overlanders, and van lifers all praise the cost-effectiveness and long-lasting performance of this battery compared to their old and heavy lead-acid batteries.

Customers love the eco-friendly aspect of being able to repeatedly charge and discharge this battery, as well as the reliable battery management system that ensures safety. And the best part? All of this power and peace of mind comes at a fair price.

Renowned by experienced RV enthusiasts and sailors alike, these batteries are the preferred choice due to their exceptional quality. Simply put, they are the best lithium batteries you can find for your RV.

Why bother with the hassles of old lead-acid batteries? Upgrade now to the Battle Born Batteries LiFePO4 Deep Cycle Battery and enjoy reliable power every time, allowing you to fully focus on your travels and adventures!

2. LiTime MINI Lithium Battery

BEST Value

Say goodbye to bulky energy sources thanks to the LiTime 12V 100Ah MINI LiFePO4 Lithium Battery. It’s 35% smaller and 10% lighter than previous models, yet it still provides an impressive 1280Wh of energy storage.

This upgraded version makes it the perfect choice for people looking for a highly portable, yet robust and dependable power source for their outdoor adventures. It’s ideal for use on RVs, solar panels, and trolling motors.

Equipped with upgraded BMS (battery management system), this battery delivers top-tier stability and performance you can count on during every cycle. Don’t worry about rough waters or extreme temperatures.

Its IP65 waterproof housing and optimized internal layout provide maximum protection from harsh weather conditions.

Also, with an operating temperature range of -4°F to 140°F, this battery is always ready for your next adventure.

With its 10-year lifespan, this battery is built to last and has an impressive energy cycle. It is the perfect choice for those who are always on the move or those who require a long-lasting power source for their outdoor equipment. Check it out!

3. Power Queen LiFePO4 Battery

Low Temperature Cut-Off

The Power Queen 100Ah lithium iron phosphate battery is designed specifically for RVs and marine use. It utilizes high-quality LiFePO4 cells to deliver an exceptionally long lifespan of up 4000 cycles (10 years).

The built-in 100A BMS helps protect the cells.

Importantly for RVers, the battery weighs just 22 lbs, much lighter than comparable lead-acid models. This significantly eases installation and handling.

The upgraded low-temperature cutoff function stops charging below 32°F to protect the battery in freezing conditions you may encounter when camping in the snow or in cold mountain locations. For this reason, this lithium battery is best if you plan to use your RV in more extreme temperature conditions.

The Power Queen 100Ah LiFePO4 battery is a compelling upgrade option for RVers looking to enhance their RV electrical system. The higher cost may deter some buyers, but the exceptional longevity and performance make this a standout lithium battery choice for RV camping applications.

4. LOSSIGY LiFePO4 Lithium Battery

RVers looking for a good value lithium battery option should consider the Lossigy 12V 200Ah model. With its large capacity and built-in battery management system, it can offer ample power for boondocking and off-grid camping situations.

At under 50 pounds, it’s much easier to install and remove than bulky lead-acid batteries.

User reviews highlight the battery’s strong performance over the first year or two of heavy usage.

While it may not have the premium name brand recognition of some competitors, this battery delivers tremendous value for RV applications at its price point.

The Lossigy battery is well-suited for solar charging, which makes it very convenient for RVs.

Lithium iron phosphate chemistry can handle thousands more recharge cycles than lead-acid, so RV owners can count on years of service with minimal maintenance.

The battery also charges faster than lead-acid, reaching full capacity at lower voltages. This allows modestly sized solar panels to effectively keep it topped off.

Owners do report the need for insulation or battery warmers in freezing conditions. But overall, with proper setup, the Lossigy battery can provide consistent, trouble-free power while off-grid.

For most RV needs, this battery offers huge off-grid power potential at an affordable price point.

5. WEIZE LiFePO4 Lithium Battery

Would you like to upgrade to lithium batteries but you are on a tight budget? Upgrade to the WEIZE LiFePO4 Lithium Battery! It’s one of the most affordable lithium solutions for RV.

It has an outstanding lifespan of 2000 cycles at 100% and 8000 cycles at 50% depth of discharge, making it last at least 4-5 times longer than traditional batteries.

However, this falls short by about 1000 deep cycles compared to our best lithium battery pick.

It features a built-in Battery Management System that protects the battery from overcharging, high and low temperatures, over-discharging, and short-circuiting.

Compared to heavy and bulky lead-acid batteries, the WEIZE battery is lightweight and versatile, making it easy to carry and install.

Use it for a variety of applications, such as fish finders, camping, ice fishing, solar systems, home alarm systems, and e-scooters. Besides, it’s eco-friendly with no hazardous fluids, making it safe to mount in any position without worrying about spillage.

The WEIZE 12V 100AH LiFePO4 Lithium Battery is that it’s maintenance-free. With its long lifespan of over 10 years, you won’t have to bear the hassle and cost of replacing your battery frequently.

People also appreciate its cold weather protection that ensures optimal performance even in frigid temperatures.

With a 10-year warranty, you can rely on the WEIZE battery to power your devices and systems for years to come, without worrying about battery failure or damage.

With this battery you get an extremely cheap lithium RV battery solution, however, some customers were not happy with the build quality and customer service.

Upgrade your power source to the WEIZE 12V 100AH LiFePO4 Lithium Battery and enjoy its many benefits for your RV solar system.

Lithium Batteries For RV: Overview

Lithium batteries are powered by lithium-ion technology, and are an exceptional choice for RV enthusiasts seeking reliable and efficient power solutions.

These rechargeable 12-volt batteries have gained popularity as a superior alternative to lead-acid batteries, especially among RVers who frequently venture off the grid or rely on solar power.

Those lithium batteries provide several advantages over other battery types, making them the preferred choice for many RVers. Here are some key benefits:

1. Longevity: As mentioned earlier, lithium batteries have a significantly longer lifespan compared to lead-acid batteries. This durability not only saves you money on frequent replacements but also provides peace of mind knowing that your battery will last for extended periods.
2. Improved Efficiency: Lithium batteries offer higher energy density, allowing them to store and deliver power more efficiently. This increased efficiency translates to better overall performance and longer run times for your RV appliances and systems.
3. Lightweight and Compact: Lithium batteries are considerably lighter and more compact than lead-acid batteries, resulting in reduced overall vehicle weight. This weight reduction can contribute to improved fuel efficiency and a smoother, more comfortable ride.
4. Rapid Charging: Lithium batteries have a fast charging capability, allowing you to quickly recharge your battery when connected to a reliable power source. This feature is especially beneficial for RVers who prefer shorter charging times and the flexibility to hit the road sooner.
5. Deep Discharge Capacity: Lithium batteries can be discharged more deeply without causing damage or compromising their overall performance. This flexibility allows you to make the most of your battery’s energy reserves, providing extended usage during off-grid adventures.

Lithium Battery Types

When exploring lithium batteries for your camper, you’ll discover a range of options to meet your specific power needs. Understanding the available varieties will help you make an informed decision.

Common types of lithium batteries include:

1. Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePO4): Known for their exceptional safety and long cycle life, LiFePO4 batteries are a popular choice for RVers. They provide reliable power output, resist self-discharge, and have a wide temperature range, making them suitable for various climates. Thanks to their features and performance, those are the most popular batteries for RVs.
2. Lithium Nickel Cobalt Aluminum Oxide (NCA): NCA batteries offer high energy density and long lifespan. They are lightweight, provide excellent performance, and are often used in electric vehicles due to their ability to deliver high power output.
3. Lithium Nickel Manganese Cobalt Oxide (NMC): NMC batteries strike a balance between energy density, power output, and lifespan. They are versatile and commonly used in various applications, including RVs, due to their excellent performance and relatively affordable cost.
4. Lithium Titanate Oxide (Li4Ti5O12): This unique variety provides unbeatable stability and a longer lifespan. Its remarkable fast-charging capabilities and ability to endure numerous charge cycles make it a winner in terms of longevity.
5. Lithium Polymer (Li-Po): If you prioritize space-saving and lightweight options, then the Li-Po batteries are the way to go. Their slim design and flexible nature make them a great fit for smaller RVs and campers.

Choosing the best lithium battery for your RV

Choosing the right lithium battery depends on several factors, including your power requirements, available space, and budget. Consider the following when selecting a battery:

1. Power Capacity: Assess your energy needs based on the appliances and systems you plan to power with the battery. Determine the appropriate capacity to ensure sufficient power supply without overloading the battery.
2. Physical Size: Measure the available space in your RV’s battery compartment to ensure the selected battery fits properly.
3. Budget: Evaluate the cost of different lithium batteries suitable for RVs while considering their long-term value. Remember that although lithium batteries have a higher upfront cost, their extended lifespan can make them more cost-effective over time.
4. Manufacturer’s Reputation: Research reputable brands that offer high-quality lithium batteries. Look for customer reviews and testimonials to gauge customer satisfaction and reliability.

Pricing for Lithium Batteries

When it comes to purchasing lithium RV batteries, the cost is often a major consideration for buyers. It’s true that lithium batteries tend to be more expensive upfront compared to traditional lead-acid batteries.

However, it’s important to look beyond the initial price tag and consider the long-term benefits and cost savings that lithium batteries offer.

The Average Price Range for Lithium Batteries

The average price range for lithium batteries suitable for RV can vary depending on the brand, capacity, and other factors. On average, you can expect to pay anywhere from $500 to $2000 for a quality lithium battery for your motorhome.

Of course, there are premium options available that can exceed this price range, but they usually come with additional features and higher capacity.

But why are lithium batteries so expensive? Well, in truth, if you consider the entire lifespan of the batteries, they aren’t more expensive. Read on!

Given the typical price range, it’s not surprising that some RV enthusiasts may feel reluctant to make the leap into purchasing a lithium battery. However, it is important to ponder the extensive advantages and value that lithium batteries bring.

Additionally, lithium batteries provide other advantages such as faster charging times, higher energy density, and a lightweight design. These features can further enhance the value of lithium RV batteries and make them a worthwhile investment for RVers who demand reliable and efficient power storage.

What Factors Influence the Price of Lithium Batteries?

Several factors influence the price of lithium batteries. These factors include battery capacity, brand reputation, and additional features such as built-in battery management systems. Higher capacity batteries and well-known brands tend to come with a higher price tag.

It’s important to consider your specific power needs and the capacity requirements of your RV when determining the price range for lithium batteries. If you only require a lower capacity battery for occasional weekend trips, you can expect to find more budget-friendly options.

On the other hand, if you have higher power demands or require extended periods of off-grid power, investing in a higher capacity lithium battery may be necessary, albeit at a higher cost.

Leading Brands and Producers of Lithium Batteries for RV

When it comes to purchasing a lithium battery, it’s crucial to choose a trustworthy brand that offers reliable and high-quality products. There are several leading brands and producers in the market that have established a reputation for delivering top-notch lithium RV batteries.

Some well-known brands in the industry include Renogy, Battle Born Batteries, Relion, and Lion Energy. These brands have been recognized for their commitment to quality, performance, and customer satisfaction.

By choosing a reputable brand, you can have peace of mind knowing that you are investing in a lithium battery that has undergone rigorous testing and meets the highest industry standards.

However, this doesn’t mean that other brands can’t offer good lithium batteries. For example, in the above lithium RV batteries selection, I mention a few less-known brands. Those can offer viable options for people who are on a budget. Those would still offer better value compared to lead acid batteries in my opinion.

Installing and Maintaining Lithium Batteries on your RV

Installation Best Practices

When it comes to installing lithium batteries on your RV, unless you choose a portable power station or off-grid solar generator, there are a few best practices to keep in mind.

While some experienced RVers with electrical expertise may be comfortable with a DIY installation, it is generally recommended to have the system installed by professionals, especially if you plan to incorporate solar panels, solar controllers, and inverters into the setup.

Installing a lithium battery bank and a battery management system requires technical proficiency to ensure proper wiring connections and system integration.

Improper installation can lead to inefficiencies, safety hazards, and even damage to your RV or the batteries themselves. By working with professionals, you can have peace of mind knowing that your RV lithium battery system is installed correctly and functions optimally.

If you do decide to tackle the installation yourself, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully and double-check all connections.

It’s also a good idea to have a thorough understanding of electrical systems and safety measures. When in doubt, consult with an expert.

Maintaining your Lithium Battery for Optimal Performance and Longer Life

While these batteries are known for their durability, a little maintenance can go a long way in maximizing their lifespan.

First and foremost, it’s important to avoid overcharging or discharging your lithium battery. Most lithium batteries come with a built-in battery management system that helps regulate charging and discharging.

However, it’s still a good idea to monitor your battery’s voltage regularly and avoid extreme levels. If you plan to store your RV for an extended period, make sure to fully charge the battery before doing so.

Additionally, it’s crucial to avoid exposing your lithium battery to extreme temperatures. Extreme heat or cold can negatively impact battery performance and lifespan. If possible, store your RV in a temperature-controlled environment or invest in insulation for your battery compartment.

Regularly inspecting and cleaning your battery terminals is another important maintenance task. Corrosion and dirt on the terminals can hinder the battery’s performance. Clean the terminals using a solution of baking soda and water, and make sure they are tightened securely.

Lastly, it’s essential to follow the manufacturer’s recommended maintenance schedule. This may include periodic equalization charging or other specific procedures. By staying on top of maintenance tasks and following the manufacturer’s guidelines, you can ensure that your lithium battery operates at its best for years to come.

Conclusion

In conclusion, when it comes to powering your recreational vehicle, and maximizing your off-grid adventures, the best lithium RV batteries are the crème de la crème.

These lightweight powerhouses of energy storage not only boast an impressive lifespan, but they also won’t weigh you down like their lead-acid competitors. Say goodbye to lugging around heavy batteries and hello to more freedom and convenience on the road.

No more worries about running out of power when you’re off in the wilderness or relying on a solar-powered setup. With the best lithium batteries for camper, you can rest easy knowing that you have a reliable and efficient energy source right at your fingertips.

So, why settle for less when you can have the best? Invest in the best lithium batteries for RV and experience the advantages firsthand. Your outdoor camping adventures will never be the same again.

If you also own a boat, then you may be interested in getting a battery that can work well in the marine environment. Here are the best lithium marine batteries that you can use on your boat as well as on your campervan!