If you are heading to the lake for a long day of fishing or even a multi-day trip. You are going to need a lot of bait. Bait can get expensive if you are buying it all the time. It’s much more cost effective to catch your own. Let’s figure out what a great cast net is for you.

What better way to do this than getting a great cast net. However, finding the right cast net can be overwhelming. There are so many to choose from. What’s the right size for me? What size netting do I need; for the fish I’m trying to catch?

We’re here to help you out with that. We scoured the web and found all the good, the bad, and the ugly of cast nets. We tried out a few. Picking only the top 5 that we liked and hope that you will too.

What Makes a Good Cast Net?

I’m going to try and make this as easy as possible with tables instead of 1000’s of words. Keep this one short and to the point.

Want to skip to the Top Picks Click Here

When looking for a cast net you want the material to be made of soft, hand-tied mesh netting. The hand line should be a braided polypropylene rope. All the weights should all be securely attached. The brail lines should run from the handline to the weights and be a quality heavy-duty monofilament. In other words, this thing should be as tough as it can possibly be.

You would ideally want something that is not going to mark up the boat deck. So a coating over any metal areas, the horn. A heavy duty swivel at the neck, and aerodynamic so it flies through the air and you get that beautiful perfect circle.

Diagram of a Cast Net

Cast nets do come in various sizes, styles, and shapes, making them ideal for all types of bait fishing scenarios. I highly recommend checking with state and local Department of Natural Resources about rules and regulations before just throwing a line out.

Here is a link for ODNR (Ohio Department of Natural Resources) fishing regulations.

If you want to learn more about cast nets see my previous post

Cast Nets: The Ultimate Guide to Becoming an Expert at Fishing with a Net

How to Find the Right Size Cast Net

Net Size & Mesh Size

Weight

Material

I know I said I was going to just have tables, but this one needs some more explination.

Monofilament

As the name implies, the monofilament is made up of a single thread. Typically made with nylon. This is a more transparent netting, making it harder for the fish to spot as it sinks into the water. However, it is not as strong as the rest of the materials, making it susceptible to tearing and stretching. The material is not as easy on your hand when emptying your catch.

Multifilament

The Multifilament netting or nylon multifilament is made up of several stands of monofilament. It is either twisted or braided together. Making it stronger than monofilament. This material is still very light and flexible. It has a higher visability in clear water, but can be dyed any color. The mateiral typically does not float, making it more prone to picking up debris (grass, sticks, leaves).

Polyethylene

Polyethylene is a super soft plastic material. It is more flexible than most nettings, holds up in cold weather, and more resistant to cracking than other netting materials. This material is one of the most widely used plastics on the planet (2024). It floats and is very resistant to UV-rays.

Braided Dyneema

This is considered to be one of the strongest materials in the world today (2024). Manufactured exclusively at a Netherlands based company. On a molecular level it is stronger than steel. It’s a super light, an ultra strong fiber, that can also float on water. Making ideal for a heavy duty fishing net in deep water, for hauling in large species.

Types

Disclaimer: These are affiliate links. Meaning I get a kickback if you click the link and purchase the item. This does not add any additional cost to you. This is a service that we provide, with researching and trying out different types of cast nets.

Okay… now that is out of the way.

5 Best Rated Cast Nets

Our Picks for Best Cast Nets and Why

Best Overall Cast Net: Bait Buster Professional Grade Cast Net

Features:

• Patented Dragon Head swivel makes it easy to replace brail lines
• Weight: 1.5 pounds per foot
• Dimensions: 3/8 inch mesh – available in 5ft, 6ft, 7ft, 8ft, 9ft, 10ft, 12ft
• Material: 0.28mm 100 pound test green monofilament
• Comes with it’s own bucket for easy storage

Pros:

• Great for cast in shallow water
• Durable for monofilament
• Easy hand line retrieval
• Good for beginners and pro’s
• Sinks fast
• Green color doesn’t spook fish
• Comes with a bucket
• Weights are crimped in the line to prevent sliding
• Dragon Head swivel

Cons:

• Doesn’t always open fully
• More expensive than other alternatives
• Weights are barrel shaped, not round as advertised

Best Small Bait Cast Net: Betts Old Salt Premium Cast Net

Features:

• Weight: 1 pound per foot
• Dimensions: 3/8 inch mesh, comes in 3.5 foot to 10 foot
• Material: Monofilament

Pros

• Great for begginers
• Has the ideal 1 pound per foot weight ratio
• Weights are crimped into the line
• Oval weights
• Ideal for shallow water
• Long retrieval line
• Comes with a utility box

Cons

• No hand loop
• Retrieval line is slippery
• Not ideal for deep water
• Catches debris
• Rip and pull easily

Best Variety Cast Net: Goture American Cast Net

Features

• Weight: 3/4lb per foot
• Dimensions: 3/8 inch or 1/2 inch mesh, available in 4ft, 8ft, 10ft, or 12ft
• Material: Copolymer monofilament
• 30ft braided hand line
• Handle and wrist loop for retrieval

Pros

• Lots of variety in mesh size and net size
• Good for beginners and pros
• Long durable hand line
• Easy to grip handle
• Environmentally friendly sinkers
• Durable monofilament
• Good for any size bait

Cons

• No brail lines
• Easily tangles
• Loose perimeter lines
• Horn can easily come apart
• Bucket not included

Best Beginner Cast Net: Ahi USA 50 Monofilament Cast Net

Features

• Weight: 3/4 pounds per foot
• Dimensions: 3/8 inch mesh, available in sizes from 3 feet to 0 feet
• Material: UBE monofilament, 80 pound test brail lines
• 24 foot handline
• Handline swivel

Pros

• Good for shallow to medium water (3-6 feet)
• Works for beginners and experienced throwers
• High size variety
• Chip resistant weights
• Strong brail lines
• Comes with a bucket
• Hard for fish to see

Cons

• Slow sinking
• Hand line gets slippery
• Catches debris easily
• No ideal for deep water

Best Budget Cast Net: FiTech Super Spreader Cast Net

Features

• Weight: 3/4lb per foot
• Dimension: 1/4 inch or 3/8 inch mesh, comes in a variety of sizes 3ft to 12ft
• Material: 80lb test brail lines, clear monofilament
• Komfort Kuff

Pros

• Great for any level caster
• Size variety
• 20ft braided poly hand line
• Triple-tied lead line
• Velcro Komfort Kuff wrist strap
• Ideal for shallow water
• Comes with a utility box

Cons

• Slow sinking
• Hand line gets slippery
• Easily tangles
• Picks up a lot of debris

Final Thoughts

The bottom line is there are a ton of cast nets on the market. While all of these nets, if used properly, will catch fish. There are significant difference in every net on the market today. You do need to pay attention to the size of the net, the size of the mesh, the weight per foot, and how deep are you trying to catch bait fish in. Choose a design that meets your needs and your budget.

Happy Fishing

Is there anything worse than lining up the perfect shot and having it miss because you didn’t check your bowstring? When it comes to your bow, it’s the bowstring that will go first. To keep this from happening at the worst of times, you need to know how to tell if your bowstring has gone or is about to go bad.

This article will focus on compound bows, but only because compound bows have more string issues than more traditional bows. This means that, if you’re using a longbow or a recurve bow, then you’ll also be able to find answers about your bowstring in this article because there are six key signs we look for:

Sign 1: Spotting a broken string or cable is a clear sign that your bowstring has gone bad and the only way to fix it is to replace it.

Sign 2: A frayed bowstring isn’t quite broken yet, but it is very close and will negatively affect your shooting experience, you can apply wax in an attempt to keep it together, but it is often best to just replace it.

Sign 3: As the string is pulled back shot after shot, stretching can occur. This is why you need to know how to recognize if you’ve overstretched your bowstring. Your bowstring will need to be replaced more often for stretching if you use it a lot.

Sign 4: As your bowstring gets older, there is a very real chance that it will stop being as waxy as it should be. A dried out bowstring is a sign that your string is going bad.

Sign 5: A bowstring is typically covered in a layer of thread called the serving. When this starts to separate from the string, you have an issue. This can be kept together with some tender care, but it is often a sign to replace your string soon.

Sign 6: Finally, if your bowstring is getting old, then it may be a good idea to replace it anyway because it’s just inviting problems. The older a string gets, the less structurally stable it is, and it is typically safer to replace before use.

So there you have it, six signs that your bowstring is going to need replacing. But if you really want to learn about each of these, then you will need to stick around to read the rest of the article.

Sign 1: A Broken String

This is the easiest problem to spot because it stands out. If you’re using a longbow or a recurve bow, then it will be literally impossible not to spot this problem. A compound bow will be a little different, however.

A compound bow doesn’t just have the main bowstring the way that a longbow does but rather it has quite a few cables that help in firing. These cables are all just as important as your main bowstring and, if any of them have broken, then you will have a hard time firing correctly.

These days, the material used for the strings and cables on your bow are most likely a highly durable fibre. These break less often than classic bowstrings, which had been made either from plants or the hide of hunted animals. However, these new synthetic fibres can break.

When you’re packing your hunting or target shooting gear, before you even leave the house, make sure you check your bow for any broken strings. If you are still new to archery and don’t know everything, you should check on your compound bow, then simply run your finger along each string and cable to see if it is broken anywhere.

Once you get to where you’ll be shooting, go ahead and check the strings one more time. This is a smart idea to do before you start shooting. Plus, if you run the finger test mentioned above, then this habit will also let you catch the next sign of a bowstring gone bad.

Sign 2: A Frayed String

A frayed string is harder to spot than a broken string because a frayed string is still fully connected. However, some part of the string is being rubbed against a solid object, and such can happen where the string meets the bow, or it is simply experiencing too much tension through usage and is starting to fray.

While a bowstring is made out of lots of fibres, they are worked into a string because each individual fibre isn’t very large. As these tiny strings begin to break apart, you see the larger overall bowstring fraying. If it is left without maintenance for a long time, eventually, a frayed bowstring will break.

If you are checking your gear before you leave the house, then you have the perfect opportunity to spot fraying. Many people notice that their bowstring is starting to fray, yet they keep using it anyway. They seem to think it will be easier to use the string a little longer than it is to simply replace it. They might even add some wax or something to the bowstring to keep it together, but there is no way to fix a frayed bowstring.

The section of your bowstring that is fraying represents the weakest part of your bow. As you continue to use it, you only manage to make it weaker. Eventually, the string has to snap, but you will be unable to predict when. It will happen when it does.

If you’re drawing an arrow when it snaps, which is likely considering how fraying happens, you are at risk of major injury. A string breaking on a compound bow has been known to cut through flesh and even muscle. Always, always check your string for fraying before use.

Sign 3: A Stretched String

Stretching your bowstring is the most important part of archery. If you can’t stretch your bowstring, then you can’t shoot an arrow. So, just how exactly can a stretched string be a bad sign?

What happens when you are shooting an arrow is that you are creating a tension in the bowstring. You are pulling it back when it wants to be at its resting position. When you let go of the bowstring it snaps back to this position. However, drawing back and firing your bow in this manner causes a release of energy within the bowstring, then on to the arrow. The more often you shoot, the more energy we are talking about. This energy appears in how the bowstring will start to stretch a little bit more each time it is fired.

As your bowstring begins to stretch, there isn’t much to worry about. It happens naturally anyway, and a little bit of stretch doesn’t really mess with your accuracy. But, as this continues, there will be a clear effect. More energy from each shot is absorbed by the bowstring, resulting in less energy making it to the arrow, thus also resulting in weak and inaccurate shots.

The stretching of the bowstring is called creep, and it typically happens somewhere between shooting 50 to 100 arrows. The fibers in the bowstring are being stretched out, making the string itself longer. Creep happens most often due to shooting, but poor storage of a bow in an overly hot location will also produce creep.

The only way to fix a stretched bowstring is to change it. You can’t shrink down a stretched string; you can only throw it out. Before you head out into the woods for some archery, try drawing back your bowstring a couple of times to see if it is as taut as it is supposed to be. If it isn’t, then you should replace the string.

This is one of the more common ways for your bowstring to go bad, as it happens naturally based on how much you are using it. Depending on the number of arrows you are shooting in a session, this could be a long time coming, or it could happen in a single afternoon. How often you experience a stretched string is entirely up to how much you shoot. If you shoot a lot, then you’ll want to keep extra bowstrings on hand whenever you go out.

Sign 4: A Dry String

A bowstring should be waxy. You may find that the string’s feeling in y0ur hand and fingers isn’t particularly pleasant; after all, when you first picture using a bow, you probably didn’t imagine the string as being waxy. However, this aspect is actually important for the string. A waxy bowstring is a functional bowstring, whereas a bowstring that has dried out is difficult to work with and reduces accuracy while increasing the risk of breaking.

Your bowstring needs to be waxed periodically. This is done by using a wax stick. These pretty much just look like a tube of lip balm, except you would run it over your bowstring rather than your lips. After you go over the string with the stick, make sure you use your thumb and forefinger to go over the string and work the wax into it fully. You can tell your string needs to be waxed when it feels dry to the touch, or if you see small hairs sticking out.

These hairs sticking out from the bowstring are often described as “furry” as in “I have a furry bowstring.” It is this furry look that is the most disconcerting. The furry aspect of the bowstring comes from where the fibres that make up the string are starting to wear. A fresh waxing will help to keep the hairs in place and looking slick but it isn’t the end all solution. In time, you will find that your bowstring is looking furrier and furrier.

As a bowstring begins to reach the end of its life, it gains more issues staying waxy. You will find yourself needing to apply wax more and more often to prevent it from becoming furry. When this starts to happen ,you know that you’ll need to replace your bowstring very soon. This is because a dry bowstring leads to a furry bowstring, which then leads to a frayed bowstring.

So, not only do you need to check your bowstring to see if it is dry or waxy, but you will also need to pay attention to how often you are waxing it as well. It is a good idea to keep a record of how often you are waxing your bowstring. This can be on a calendar or in a notebook, but it can be just as easy to keep the record in your phone. Seeing how often you need to wax will help you to get a better sense of how long the bowstring will last overall.

Sign 5: A Seperated String

A bowstring is covered by a layer referred to as the serving. This is a thread that covers up the fibres of string. Compound bows also have serving overtop of the various cables that the bow uses. The serving is mostly there to go over the nocking area of the bowstring and help keep the arrow in the same position, firing with the same amount of power.

A compound bow has serving typically over any of the areas where the bowstring or one of the cables comes into contact with any of the pieces of the bow, like the roller guard or string stop. Those who use a compound bow must make checking the serving a part of their regular maintenance and check-up. This begins with the bowstring but then stretches out into the other areas where the serving has been added.

Serving should be a tight coil that wraps around the bowstring. But, because it is still made out of a fiber, it can break just as easily as your bowstring itself. Over time, the serving begins to separate and come apart from the string and cables that it is protecting.

When checking your serving, keep in mind that you should replace any you see that are starting to separate. However, the serving around the nocking area is absolutely the most important, and it must be changed immediately because it will have a direct effect on your shot, your accuracy, and the safety of the bow itself.

Sign 6: An Old String

The final reason is that you simply have a bowstring that is too old. All of the previous signs arise from the use of the bow itself. Each part of the bow degrades over time due to repetitive use. This is a natural part of archery and something that every archer needs to learn to deal with.

However, another issue that could cause your bowstring to degrade is time. You should never, ever have a bowstring on your bow that is more than two years old. The same goes for the cables used by a compound bow. If you are firing your bow regularly, then you’ll never make it this long without replacing them, but if it’s in storage, then it is easy to let a lot of time go by before using it again. Replace the bowstring before you hit this range.

If you’ve never had to change a bowstring before, don’t worry; it really isn’t that hard. This informative video will walk you through how to change your string and your compound cables:

You can purchase new strings for your bow individually or in bulk. I like making use of both from time to time. For example, I like to keep a lot of strings around, but I’ll also splurge from time to time to get a more expensive string like this one. I find it helps give a sense of the real difference between bowstrings. Spoiler: often there is very little.

Old strings should not be trusted. As much as you may just want the ability to pull your bow out of storage and give it a couple shots, it is always best to replace the string prior to shooting. There is not a set timeframe that works to set when a string should or shouldn’t be replaced, but I won’t shoot a string that hasn’t been tested in over a year. It is just safer to replace it with a new one and check all the pieces in the process.

Outro

So there you have it—six ways you can tell that your bowstring is going bad, ranging from the obvious to the more stealthy. The important thing to understand about this topic is that none of what you read matters in the least if you don’t put it into practice.

This means that you absolutely must make checking your bowstring a regular part of using your bow. You should never, under any circumstances, start shooting your bow before you have inspected it. Your bow may be a simpler weapon compared to a hunting rifle, but it requires just as much care and respect to keep it firing correctly.

So, next time you’re ready to hit the range or woods to start taking some shots, make sure you stop and inspect your string first. It’ll make your life a thousand times easier in the long run.

What location has caught the most blue marlin over 1,000 pounds?

This question was recently posted on social media, and asked everyone around the world to count up the granders (marlin weighing 1,000 pounds or more) caught from their home waters. We wanted to see, statistically, which location would stand out as the best place in the world to catch a grander blue.

Utilizing the Hawaii Fishing News Grander list, we counted up about 144 from Hawaii.

With that in mind, the following may be inexact, but it will give you a pretty dang good idea where the granders were caught in Hawaii:

Big Island: 87Oahu: 43Maui: 7Molokai: 3 (Two were caught the same day!)Kauai: 2

Of all the grander marlin caught in Hawaii, however, three fish stand out as extremely noteworthy catches. These fish include Capt. George Parker’s 1,002-pound blue marlin caught in 1954, the first grander in Hawaii. Capt. Bobby Brown’s 1,376-pound blue caught in 1982, a world record that still stands today. And, the largest marlin ever caught on rod and reel, Capt. Cornelius Choy’s 1,805-pound blue caught in 1970.

The best “Big Fish” months appear to be July with 21 granders, while June and March each have 20. May has tallied 14 granders, with 13 caught in August, 12 landed in April 12 and 10 in September. The winter months of October through February average less than five, but for some reason January posts nine, which offsets the lowest months of November and December, with three each.

June 10, 1970 is an especially notable date because it was on this day that Choy brought in his monster marlin. This year, on June 10 and 11 the Hawaii Marlin Tournament Series will pay homage to Choy’s 1,800-pounder at Leg One of the aeries, The Kewalo Big Fish Chase.

A $75,000 bounty has been placed on Choy’s monster and whoever catches a marlin larger than 1,805 pounds will walk away with the purse. Jungle rules do apply, in deference to the favorite way of fishing by Oahu folks. However the rod and reel must adhere to IGFA tackle specs. This “bounty” is open only to teams entered in the Kewalo Big Fish Chase. There’s also a guaranteed $10,000 purse to be split among the largest marlin, ahi, mahi and ono – on top of the purse generated from the $500.00 per team entry fee.

Rules for the Bounty and the tournament can be found at: http://konatournaments.com/events/kewalo-harbor-big-fish-chase/

HONARABLE MENTION

During the online discussion, folks from all over the world chimed in, but in the end, it was apparent that Hawaii is still the Blue Marlin Grander Capital of the World. Honorable mention went to Madeira, Cape Verde and the Canary Islands. Mauritius was noted as holding the potential to give Hawaii a run for its money, if only it had a large fleet of boats. They estimated 40 granders weighed in Mauritius with the largest weighing 1,430 pounds. Very respectful!

An interesting tidbit from the conversation was that known hot spots that catch large numbers of blue marlin such as St. Thomas, Panama and Costa Rica had very few granders to speak of. That doesn’t discount the great fishing that the offer, with the Costa Rica FAD fishing reporting sometimes 20+ blue marlin a day – from one boat!

Capt. Bomboy Llanes caught a 1,258.4-pound blue marlin back in 2003 at the Firecracker Open tournament, and it was long thought to be the largest marlin ever caught in a tournament. However, Capt. Tim Dean chimed in from Australia and reminded is that he weighed a 1,278-pound black marlin at the Lizard Island Black Marlin Classic.

Therefore, Bomboy had to adjust his claim to having caught the “largest blue marlin in a tournament, anywhere in the world.” Small adjustment for such a big fish, on a world-wide scale.

The story of Molly Palmer went viral back in 2012 when she was fishing in the Big Island Marlin Tournament. She refused to cheat and decided to disqualify a 1,022-pound marlin that was not only the tournament winner but also a potential woman’s world record because of a technicality.

Going in to its 31st year, the eight tournament Hawaii Marlin Tournament Series, the features the return of Taj Mahal and the Hula Blues Band in their only performance for the year. Taj will be taking a break from the TajMo tour with Keb Mo, following the release of their new record “TAJMO” featuring cameos by Bonnie Raitt and more.

Taj had his own tournament in Costa Rica for a few years and loves to fish. Last year at the BIMT he tagged and released a marlin to get back in the groove. This year he has a brand new plan.

For a complete schedule of all eight events in the $1.5 million Hawaii Marlin Tournament Series visit www.konatournaments.com

Product Description

Barnyard grass (Echinochloa crusgalli) is an annual grass weed most commonly found in newly established turf. Barnyard grass tends to be more prevalent when turf is newly seeded during the hot conditions of summer. It grows faster than the desirable grasses that need cooler temperatures to germinate.

Barnyard grass is a coarse annual grass reaching 1 to 4 feet tall, if not mowed. Stems are thick, coarse, mostly upright branching at the base with a purplish-green color. Flower head or seed head is reddish, purplish or greenish color.

Fortunately, coarse Barnyard grass will be killed by the first frost in Fall. The coarse brown grass decomposes in the Spring and the desirable thin bladed grasses fill in the areas with Spring rains and an application of slow release fertilizer.

Planting Rate: 25 lbs/acre

Barnyard Grass Seeds

Barnyard Grass (Echinochloa crus-galii) is the wild millet that ducks have been eating since the beginning of time. It is easy to grow and ducks love it. It does great in wetlands. Other names it is called are Wild Millet, Barnyard Millet, and Common Barnyard Grass.

Barnyard Grass Planting Guide

Barnyard Grass is a prolific seeder. It makes a small seed that ducks love. It will volunteer several years after the initial planting with proper management. It grows 1’-3’ tall. In wetlands, it performs best with late-growing season water drawdowns. The combination of heat, wet soil, and day length getting shorter puts the plant into high gear! When planting Barnyard Grass seed, it is best to plant it late in the growing season to mimic nature. Plus, it has a short maturity, often 45-60 days. When planted too early in the growing season the first crop may grow and produce seed too early for the ducks to use. You want the seed available for when the ducks show up.

The seeding rate is 12 lbs. – 15 lbs. per acre. There are approximately 175,000 seeds per pound. It does not take much seed per acre to get a good stand of Barnyard Grass.

Barnyard Grass can be planted with a seed drill or by broadcasting. The most common method is broadcasting onto a well-prepared seed bed and covering the seed lightly. Do not cover the seed too deep as it is a small seed. ½” deep is plenty.

There are a few herbicides that can be used to control broad leaves in Barnyard Grass. 2,4-D, Aim and Blazer work well on millets. It is important to spray the weeds when they are young (<4” tall) and actively growing. In drought situations, weeds may not be actively growing and will not uptake the herbicides as well as when they are actively growing. Be sure to follow the herbicide’s label.

Does Barnyard Grass need fertilizer? Barnyard Grass does not require a lot of fertilizer. Waterfowl impoundments are naturally rich due to them being in low-lying areas. They can be high in organic material creating natural fertilizer. It is recommended to pull a soil sample and amend the soil with lime and fertilize per the soil test recommendations. Without a soil sample, a rule of thumb would be to fertilize with 20 units of Nitrogen. So for a fertilizer like 13-13-13 that has 13 units of nitrogen per 100 lbs., the rate would be 154 lbs of 13-13-13 per acre.

Barnyard Grass for Waterfowl

When Barnyard Grass is planted, it cannot be manipulated and hunted over or near for ducks and geese. If a volunteer crop is produced in subsequent years, it can be manipulated and hunted over per Federal rule. It is recommended to contact your state wildlife agency to be sure management actions do not violate any hunting regulations.

Barnyard Grass seed has a high percentage of “hard” seed. This hard seed characteristic is what preserves the seed, keeping it from deteriorating. The seed will persist for a long time under water which is good for feeding ducks. It will also last a long time in the seed bank which will allow it to grow for many years after the initial planting with proper management.

In the following years after the initial planting of Barnyard Grass, keep the water on the impoundment late into the growing season. For example, in the southeast United States holding water until August can produce good stands of wild barnyard grass. In August, if your impoundment is at full pool, you would want to release the water slowly. This may be 4″ per week. A lot of times evaporation can do this for you if you have kept all the boards in. You may need to disk the impoundment once every 3rd year to set back succession. Barnyard grass is a great moist soil plant for ducks.

Barnyard Grass Seeds for Sale

If you’re looking to add Barnyard Grass to an impoundment or food plot for waterfowl or other game, check out our selection at Specialty Seeds Inc. We have everything you’ll need for successful Barnyard Grass planting.

I will always remember telling a hunting story to a non-hunting co-worker a few years back. I was rambling on about the specific details of a deer hunt over the weekend using all the fancy deer hunting lingo. He graciously let me continue.

But when I had finished, he smiled and said, “That’s great; could you repeat that in English?”

I’m not sure if it actually happened, but it feels to me like I stood there with my mouth agape for about 5 minutes before I could muster an intelligent response.

Needless to say, I was a little embarrassed.

It had literally not even occurred to me that the deer hunting slang and hunting terms I had grown so used to would be so foreign to someone who had not hunted before.

As with any community or group, there is always a certain level of technical jargon to understand. But if you’re learning to hunt, there is a ridiculous amount of hunting terminology slang words to wrestle with. Trying to understand someone who uses these deer hunting terms and phrases might seem like you’re trying to test out of a college language requirement (and not doing well, either).

I felt it was about time I write an article to define some of these deer hunting terms for you. Reference it whenever you need to. When you’re done, check out the list of small game hunting terms too.

Common Deer Hunting Terms

Antlers The bony growths on a buck’s head. They’re called racks or horns too, but horns do not fall off; it’s just a misnomer. Deer, elk, and moose have antlers. Bag / daily limit The legal number of animals of a certain species you can kill each day. Bed Where a deer actually lays down, they leave an oval depression in the grass or snow. Larger beds usually belong to bucks. Bedding area A place where deer will rest and sleep during the day; usually this is found in dense thickets or places where they can easily hide. Bleating Does make a whiny bleat noise to communicate with each other and signal they are in estrous. Blowing Often following a “white flag”, deer will snort loudly (i.e., “blow”) to alert other deer about a threat. Broadside The most ethical shot at a deer is when they are standing perpendicular to you so you can see one entire side of their body. A broadside shot to the vitals is a quickly-killed deer. Brow tine The first antler tine nearest to a buck’s head. Browsing Deer are adapted to eat woody shrubs and herbaceous plants quickly by roughly tearing off large chunks and continuing on their walk. Buck A male deer. Busted / spooked When deer or other game smell, see, or hear you, they will get nervous and/or leave the area quickly. Button buck A male fawn deer that only has little bumps for antlers in its first year. These are generally considered legal does because their antlers are less than 3 inches long and can be confused for does in the field. Can call An accessory piece of hunting equipment, this call is typically in the shape or a small can and sounds like a doe bleating, which they use to communicate with other deer. Climber / climbing tree stand A tree stand that wraps around a tree trunk and has a seat section and foot-hold section. You use leverage to climb the tree. Doe A female deer. Estrous When does are ready to mate, they are “in estrous”, much like a dog is “in heat”. Fawn A fawn is a deer that was born the spring of the same calendar year. Can be a newborn with spots or look like a small deer at 6 months old. Feeding area A place where deer will eat during the night, whether that includes a corn field, food plot, young forest, or shrub patch. Field dressing After shooting a deer, you need to remove the entrails quickly so the meat doesn’t spoil. Also called “gutting”. Fork buck / forkhorn A male deer with a forked tine on each side of its head, but no more than 4 points or tines. Funnel A narrow area where topography and/or habitat features cause deer to converge on a single trail. For example, where a forest is pinched by fields on each side. Glassing Using binoculars or a spotting scope to look for wild game from a good vantage point. Grunt tube A tubular deer call that sounds like a buck grunting, which they typically do during the rut. Grunting Bucks make a low-pitched grunt at each other to signal aggression, especially during the breeding season (rut). Gut shot The region of a deer that holds the stomach, intestines, liver, and various other organs. A gut shot is to be avoided as it is likely to slowly kill a deer, but it is extremely difficult to find them. Hang-on tree stand A tree stand base that connects to a tree via a ratchet strap. It also requires separate ladder sections to be attached to the tree so you can access it. Harvest A popular term in wildlife management circles, the act of killing or “taking” an animal. It’s unpopular with many hunters due to the gardening analogy, whereas hunting is the act of taking a life. Horns A permanent bony protrusion from an animal’s head. See the difference from “Antlers” above. Cows, sheep, goats, or antelope have horns. Hunting weapons Generally defines any guns (rifle, shotgun, muzzleloader, or pistol) or bows (bow or crossbow) used to hunt animals. Different from tactical weapons, which are used more for target shooting. Ladder tree stand A tree stand that props up against a tree, using multiple connected ladder sections. License A hunting license should be purchased for each species or type of hunting you do. It is granting you the privilege to hunt. Mast The fruit or nuts of trees, including apples, pears, berries, grapes, acorns, walnuts, etc. Mature A deer is considered mature by most people when it reaches 3 1/2 years old. Nubbin buck See “Button buck” above. Paunch See “Gut shot” above. Pinch point See “Funnel” above. Possession limit The legal number of animals of a certain species you can physically have in your possession (in the freezer, canned, etc.). This may be more than the daily bag limit. Processing The process of skinning, quartering, and cutting all the meat off of a deer carcass. Doing this yourself can be intimidating, but you know exactly how the meat is treated this way too. Quartering (butchering) The act of cutting the “quarters” off of a deer while processing/butchering it. The quarters include all four legs. Quartering (shot) When a deer is slightly facing away from or towards you. Quartering away shots are great for bow hunters or gun hunters, but a quartering to shot should be avoided. Rack See “Antlers” above. Rattling A hunter uses two antlers to make it sound like bucks fighting, which can lure a mature buck into shooting range. Generally more useful in areas with little hunting pressure and lots of mature deer. Rub When a buck rubs its antlers against a tree to mark its territory, strengthen its neck, or remove its velvet, it scrapes the bark away. Commonly found in areas bucks like to hang out. Ruminant Like cows, deer quickly feed on plants while they can, and then lie down to chew their cud. This cud-chewing, combined with their four-chambered stomach, digests the food when they’re in the safety of their bed. Rut / pre-rut / post-rut The rut is when deer enter the peak of their breeding season (i.e., they breed the most). The pre-rut includes the weeks leading up to the rut, while the post-rut includes the weeks after it. Scent drag A piece of rope with a cloth at the end. The cloth is usually sprayed with a deer scent and drug through the woods behind a hunter to make it smell like a deer traveled the same path. Scope Magnifying optics usually mounted to the top of a rifle that allow you to make an accurate long-distance shot at an animal. Scouting The act of investigating a hunting property before you actually hunt it. A scouting trip helps you to find good hunting locations based off of wildlife sign. Scrape A scratched area on the ground (usually about 1-3 feet across) where a buck or doe leaves scent from its hooves and urinates into it to communicate to other deer in the area. Seasons The time allotted to hunt a certain species, usually open for a set number of days. Shed / shed antler As bucks enter late winter, the antlers on their head will fall off so they can start growing new ones in the spring. Shooter Usually used to describe a deer you would kill (one of legal status and to your liking). Sign The evidence left behind from animals, including tracks, trails, beds, rubs, scrapes, etc. Spike buck A male deer with only one tine on each side of its head, forming a spike. Stamp Some wild game species (e.g., waterfowl, pheasants, etc.) may require you to purchase a special additional stamp. The proceeds from these stamps will generally support additional conservation efforts for that species. Still-hunting Walking very slowly through the woods, trying to ambush an animal before they see/hear you. Tag In addition to your hunting license, you will have a field tag. This paper slip will contain basic harvest data about your animal, and serves to validate or fulfill your license. Tines The single bony extensions on an antler. Also called “points”. For example, an 8-pointer would have 8 tines (4 on each antler). Velvet In the spring and summer, velvet is living tissue that covers the development of deer antlers, making it one of the fastest-growing tissue in the world. They usually shed this tissue before hunting season. Venison Meat from a deer is called venison. Vitals The chest cavity of a deer that holds the heart and lungs. A shot with a bow or rifle in the vitals will usually quickly kill a deer and is the most ethical shot. White flag When white-tailed deer retreat, they raise their white tails to show a predator they were spotted. Not a good sign.

Using This List of Hunting Terms

Clear as mud?

As you can see, the deer hunting vocabulary is full of odd hunting terms; some make sense and some just don’t. I hope this hunting terms glossary will help you sort through that confusion.

It’s important to note that the hunting terms listed above really just scratches the surface for deer hunting. Besides that, there are specific bird hunting terms, turkey hunting slang words, and various other hunting phrases. If it’s helpful, I’ll add a list for those someday too.

I didn’t want to overwhelm you with one post!

The next time you hear another hunter talking in hunting slang, I hope you can use this list as a helpful resource to engage in the conversation.

If nothing else, feel free to call them out on it like my co-worker did to me. It will probably open their eyes to start using more inclusive hunting language going forward.

Anything I missed? Send me a quick message with deer hunting terms you’ve heard that boggled your mind.

Lightfield slugs, also known as “ammo-less” or “non-toxic” slugs, are a type of shotgun slug that uses compressed air to propel itself. They were designed as an alternative to traditional lead and copper shotgun slugs, which are considered environmentally harmful.

Lightfield slugs have been shown to be just as effective as traditional lead and copper shotgun slugs, but they are significantly less expensive to produce. However, lightfield slug production has been discontinued and the company that manufactured them has gone out of business.

Lightfield slugs were once a common sight in the fields and gardens of North America. But these days, they are hard to find. What happened to them? There are a few theories about what might have happened to lightfield slugs. One is that they were simply victims of changing environmental conditions. As the climate has become drier and warmer, their natural habitat has shrunk and they have been unable to adapt. Another possibility is that they were preyed upon by introduced predators such as rats or snakes. These non-native animals may have found lightfield slugs an easy target, causing their numbers to decline sharply. Whatever the cause, it’s clear that lightfield slugs are in trouble. And that’s a shame, because these creatures play an important role in the ecosystem by breaking down organic matter and recycling nutrients back into the soil. Let’s hope we can figure out what happened to them and help them make a comeback.

Why SlugGuns Shoot High

Can You Still Buy Lightfield Slugs?

As of 2021, Lightfield slugs are no longer being manufactured. The company that made them, Lightfield Ammunition, went out of business in 2019. While there may be some retailers who still have old inventory for sale, it is getting increasingly difficult to find these slugs on the market. Lightfield slugs were known for their accuracy and power. They were popular among hunters and target shooters alike. While there are other slug brands available, Lightfield was one of the first companies to produce high-quality slugs for shotguns. If you’re looking for an alternative to Lightfield slugs, try checking out some of the other options on the market. There are a variety of different manufacturers that make quality slug products. Do your research and find the right option for you and your shotgun.

Who Makes Sabot Shotgun Slugs?

Sabot shotgun slugs are made by a variety of manufacturers, but the most popular brand is Federal. Other brands include Winchester, Remington, and Hornady. Sabot shotgun slugs are designed for use in shotguns with rifled barrels. They are made from lead or copper and have a plastic or metal sabot (a type of sleeve) that surrounds the slug. The sabot helps to stabilize the slug in flight and allows it to spin, which increases accuracy.

What is the Best 20 Gauge Sabot Slug?

If you’re in the market for a 20 gauge sabot slug, there are a few things you’ll want to keep in mind. First, what is your intended use for the slug? Hunting or target shooting? Second, what is your budget? Third, what is the range you plan to shoot at? With those factors in mind, let’s take a look at some of the best 20 gauge sabot slugs on the market: 1. Hornady SST Sabot Slug: The Hornady SST Sabot Slug is one of the most popular choices for hunting and target shooting. It’s accurate and has good penetration. It’s also relatively affordable. 2. Winchester PDX1 Defender Sabot Slug: The Winchester PDX1 Defender is another good option for hunting and target shooting. It has excellent penetration and is very accurate. However, it’s more expensive than the Hornady SST. 3. Federal Premium TruBall Rifled Slug: The Federal Premium TruBall Rifled Slug is an excellent choice for long range shooting. It’s extremely accurate and has great penetration. However, it’s quite expensive.

Are Lightfield Slugs Rifled?

No, Lightfield slugs are not rifled. Rifled slugs are designed for use in smooth bore barrels, and Lightfield makes both types of slug. Their Hybred EXP line is a good example of a rifled slug, while the Commander Slug has a saboted design that’s better suited for use in a rifled barrel.

Lightfield Slugs Auction

Welcome to our lightfield slug auction! Here you will find some of the finest slugs in the world. We have a wide variety of slugs for sale, so there is sure to be something that interests you. Our lightfield slugs are known for their beauty and rarity, and we are proud to offer them to the public. This auction is your chance to own one of these amazing creatures. We have a wide variety of slugs for sale, so take your time and browse through our selection. You are sure to find something that catches your eye. Thanks for visiting our auction, and good luck!

Lightfield Slugs 12 Gauge 2 3/4

5 oz. If you’re looking for a powerful and effective slug for your 12 gauge shotgun, then you should definitely check out the Lightfield Slugs 12 Gauge 2 3/4 .5 oz. These slugs are designed to provide maximum stopping power and accuracy, and they definitely deliver on both fronts. The Lightfield Slugs 12 Gauge 2 3/4 .5 oz are made with a patented saboted design that provides unbeatable accuracy at long range. The slug itself is made of high quality lead and is surrounded by a tough plastic sabot that helps it retain its shape during flight. This ensures that the slug will hit its target with lethal force, making it ideal for hunting or self-defense situations. The Lightfield Slugs 12 Gauge 2 3/4 .5 oz also have an impressive muzzle velocity of 1600 fps, making them some of the fastest slugs on the market. This high velocity gives them excellent penetration power, which is perfect for taking down large game animals. The Lightfield Slugs 12 Gauge 2 3/4 .5 oz are also incredibly durable and reliable, so you can count on them to perform when you need them most.

Who Carries Lightfield Slugs

Lightfield slugs are a type of shotgun ammunition that are designed to be used for hunting. They are typically made from a solid brass or copper material and have a hollow point design. The Lightfield slug was created by George Kollitides, who is also the founder of KA-BAR Knives, Inc. The Lightfield slug was designed with several features that make it ideal for hunting. One of these features is its aerodynamic design, which makes it more stable in flight and less likely to tumble when it hits its target. Additionally, the light weight of the slug makes it easier for hunters to carry more rounds with them without adding too much weight to their pack. And finally, the hollow point design ensures that the slug will expand upon impact, causing maximum damage to the animal being hunted. If you’re looking for a high-quality, reliable shotgun slug for hunting purposes, then you should definitely consider using Lightfield slugs.

Lightfield Sabot Slugs Reviews

Lightfield Sabot Slugs Reviews If you are looking for a high-powered slug for your shotgun, the Lightfield Sabot Slug may be just what you need. These slugs are designed for maximum stopping power and accuracy, and they have been proven in law enforcement and military applications. Here is a closer look at the Lightfield Sabot Slug and what it can do for you. The Lightfield Sabot Slug was developed by Dr. John Buford, who is a leading authority on firearms technology. He has over 30 years of experience in law enforcement and the military, and he has written several books on firearms technology. The Lightfield Sabot Slug is based on his research into how to create the most effective slug possible. The Lightfield Sabot Slug is made from a solid piece of copper that is precision machined to create a hollow point bullet. The slug also has grooves cut into it that help to stabilize it in flight and ensure that it spins correctly when fired from a rifled barrel. This design makes the Lightfield Sabot Slug one of the most accurate slugs available. The light weight of the slug also allows it to reach higher velocities than other types of slugs, which results in more penetration power. The sabot design also helps to protect your barrel from wear and tear since there is no metal-on-metal contact between the slug and barrel walls. So if you are looking for a high-powered slug that can deliver accuracy and stopping power, the Lightfield Sabot Slug may be just what you need.

Lightfield Slugs 20 Gauge

75″ 3/4 oz. Super-X Lightfield Slugs 20 Gauge .75″ 3/4 oz. Super-X are a great choice for those looking for a high performance slug at an affordable price. These slugs offer outstanding accuracy and terminal performance in a variety of scenarios. The Lightfield Slugs 20 Gauge .75″ 3/4 oz. Super-X are designed to expand rapidly upon impact, creating a large wound channel that is highly effective at taking down game animals quickly and humanely.

Lightfield Sabot Slugs 12 Ga

Lightfield Sabot Slugs 12 Ga are a type of shotgun ammunition that is designed for hunting large game. The slug itself is made of lead and is surrounded by a plastic sabot, or shell. The sabot helps to stabilize the slug in flight and also increases the accuracy of the shot. These slugs are typically used in shotguns with rifled barrels, as the rifling helps to spin the slug and improve its accuracy. Lightfield Sabot Slugs 12 Ga can be effective at ranges up to 100 yards, making them a good choice for hunters who want to take down big game animals such as deer or hogs.

The Lightfield Slug Mold

Lightfield slug mold is a type of mold that is used to create slugs for use in airsoft guns. This mold is made from a light-weight material that allows for the easy creation of perfect pellets every time. The pellets produced by this mold are very precise and have little to no imperfections, making them ideal for use in airsoft guns. This mold is also very easy to use and clean, making it a great choice for those who want to make their own slugs.

Lightfield 20 Gauge Sabot Slugs Ballistics

Lightfield’s 20 gauge sabot slugs are some of the most accurate and powerful slugs on the market. With a muzzle velocity of 2000 fps, these slugs can take down even the biggest game animals. And, thanks to their precision construction, they’re also extremely accurate at long range. If you’re looking for a high-powered slug for your 20 gauge shotgun, Lightfield’s sabot slugs are definitely worth a look.

Initial Impression “Are we hiking or are we hunting?” is a refrain I hear all too often at elk camp, usually as I charge up a mountain to warm my frozen toes. But if I sit down, the snacks and crinkly wrappers come out. Then we’re really not hunting. Enter the fully-insulated Beartooth 200g boot from Schnee’s. I’ll finally be able to sit still for a few minutes this fall—and they’re damn good for hiking, too.

Break-In Like most hunters in the area, my list of places to explore burgeons faster than I can cross spots off. This summer, I made it a priority to start checking out my areas of interest, most of which were high-alpine basins—the kind frequented by big mule deer bucks. Lacing up my new boots, I figured I could knock out two birds with one stone: find some big ol’ bucks, and break in my Beartooths. After dozens of miles, I accomplished only the latter. The deer proved elusive, but my boots are comfortable as ever.

Now, when I slip on my leathers, it’s like sitting down for a home-cooked pot roast after a cold winter day in the woods. I almost want to let out a sigh of relief. They’re comfortable and familiar, the leather melded perfectly to the shape of my feet. They almost feel like an extension of my body. I’ve tried dozens of different styles over the years, and finding the Goldilocks boot is an eternal challenge. But thanks to the Beartooth, I’ve finally found my new go-to.

What I Like The thing I appreciate most about the Beartooth is the soft sole (a flex two rating, on Schnee’s four-point scale). There’s been a push amongst major boot brands lately to make lighter weight boots with extremely stiff soles. Essentially, adapting alpine sheep-hunting boots to elk hunting—which results in boots that are fine for steep, rocky terrain, but not ideal for long hikes. For high-mileage situations, softer soles are the key to comfy feet. Think about it: trail-running shoes and everyday hiking boots have a large amount of flex, but are rigid in a few key spots. Those features make them comfortable to hike or run long distances in, and give the shoes better ground contact. The Beartooth feel like a sturdier, insulated version of a summer hiking boot or trail runner, making them ideal for hiking long distances in rain, snow, or shine.

The other thing I’ve noticed is how Schnee’s cleverly avoided a common pinch point that forms on the front of most mid-calf hunting boots. Instead of a single piece of rigid leather along the heel (like most other brands), the Beartooth’s have an oval-shaped soft spot stitched into the back. When the boot flexes as I hike, the leather compresses in that spot, eliminating any kind of pinching on the front—pretty clever, Schnee’s!

A Quality Boot Finally, the overall build quality of these boots jumps out immediately. Not a single stitch is out of place, and the leather is top-quality. I’ve been rocking a pair of uninsulated Beartooths for three seasons now (with heavy use) and haven’t encountered a single issue. And, the longer I wear them, the comfier they get—to the point of dreading taking them off at the end of the day in camp. I know that the 200g version is going to perform similarly this fall, even on the coldest of days in the Montana high country or on the prairie.

$480; schnees.com.

With their towering manes, searing stares, and distinctive roar, lions have been the symbol of power for centuries. But just how powerful are lion bites?

The lion has a deadly bite force of 650 psi. While this may seem like a powerful bite force at first, the lions surprisingly have one of the weaker bite forces when it comes to big cats and predators. However, this weaker bite force doesn’t affect a lion’s ability to hunt its prey.

This article will cover the bite force of the lion and how it compares to the bite forces of other big cats in the jungle.

A Lion’s Bite force

The lion’s average bite force has been recorded to be around 650 PSI. When comparing this to a human’s bite force of a mere 150 PSI, this may look extremely strong, but lions have a weak bite force compared to the bigger cats.

A lion’s most substantial bite has been estimated to be close to 1000 PSI. The strength of the bite has to do with many different factors as well. The maturity and age of a lion are essential factors, coupled with the sex of the lion and what teeth it uses.

While female lions are usually the main hunters of the pride, a male lion sometimes joins in to take down larger and stronger prey.

It’s understandable how the lion doesn’t have the strongest bite force, but then the question presents itself, how did the lion rise to be the king of the jungle?

The answer here lies in technique. Lions attack the throat, generally a weaker area of an animal, and don’t require a massive force to kill their prey.

Lion Bite Force Compared

Being the king of the jungle comes with a lot of comparison and competition.

At times, it may be other bigger cats or hyenas posing competition and trying to fight the lion for power or a dead carcass of prey.

Other times, it may be an article comparing a lion’s bite force to other predators in the jungle.

1. Bite Force Compared To Tigers

Tigers are one of nature’s finest and deadliest predators in the world. Ferocious and ruthless when it comes to hunting its prey.

A tiger’s bite force is estimated to be an average of 1050 psi; that is almost similar to the bite maximum bite force estimated for a wholly grown male lion which is 1000 psi but far greater than their average.

The superior bite force of a tiger makes it understandable why a tiger prefers hunting alone because, with a bite force that strong, few animals can survive a tiger’s attacks.

2. Bite Force Of a Great White Shark

With the release of the highly acclaimed movie Jaws in 1975, the great white sharks became famous as the big bad predators of the ocean. It would be fair to compare the bite force of a lion with the great white shark.

Unfortunately, accurate measurements are difficult to come by, with some estimates as low as 625 psi and others as high as 4,000 psi.

If you thought measuring the bite force of a lion was difficult, try adding the underwater element into the mix.

3. Bite Force Of a Dog

Dogs are known as man’s best friend, but their bite force is dangerous. Generally, dogs can bite with a force of 325 PSI.

However, some bigger breeds of dogs, such as Mastiffs, German Shepherds, and Rottweilers, have a bite force closer to 500 PSI.

Although this might not feel that strong at first, a dog’s smaller size makes it difficult for them to have a stronger bite force.

Final Thoughts on Lion’s Bite Force

The lion is a highly magical creature that oozes class with every feature it possesses. It is distinguishable, and being the jungle king comes with many scrutinies.

A lion has a bite force of 650 psi, and although it may not be as powerful as the bite force of other big cats, it is essential to realize that the lion is efficient with its jaw and bite force.

FAQs