Catfish are one the most popular game fish on the North American continent and varieties of catfish can be caught world-wide. Catfish have always seemed something rather elusive to me growing up.

I know how to locate them and how to catch them. I’ve seen countless folks around me do it all the time. But I always seemed to have bad luck myself. Maybe I’ve been using the wrong bait.

How about worms? Surely they will catch plenty of catfish, right? I mean they work incredibly on bullheads. So I did some research for this article.

Can you catch catfish with worms? You can catch catfish using worms. Worms provide fish-attracting scent and enough natural action to draw in fish day or night. The effectiveness of worms makes them one of the most popular catfish baits.

While you may luck into a stringer full of catfish by haphazardly tossing worm-baited hooks into the abyss, there are specific ways to ensure bites and action using worms. Read on to learn how to maximize your catfish success.

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Worms: The Ideal Bait for Catfish

Worms are actually the perfect catfish bait for a variety of reasons. They are readily available everywhere and in every garden or bait shop.

They are free or very inexpensive depending on your means of acquiring them. They also offer great longevity and hardiness.

But we don’t care about all that. What we really care about is how to catfish like them. Catfish devour worms given the opportunity.

Sure there are plenty of bait options (cut bait, live bluegills, chicken liver, etc) that work really well under certain circumstances, but worms will catch catfish under universal circumstances.

Worms will catch catfish often times when other baits won’t.

Worms vs. Nightcrawlers for Catfish

When fishing for catfish, worms (red worms & earthworms) and nightcrawlers have their own advantages and disadvantages. I personally think worms are superior to nightcrawlers for catfish and I explain why.

First, worms are more lively and “flail” about on the worm more vigorously than nightcrawlers. Worms are more “twitchy” and reactive than their bigger, more docile cousins.

While you can usually get by only putting one single nightcrawler on the hook instead of multiple red worms, the resulting action just won’t be the same.

Perhaps even more critical a factor is the scent released by both forms of worm. Red worms are more aggressive feeders of decaying matter than nightcrawlers. This permeates into their body and out of their pores.

You may not be able to smell a difference in your hands, but catfish can detect a couple red worms more vividly from a few feet away easier than a single big nightcrawler.

If I had to choose, I’m going red worms.

Half-Worm vs. Full-Worm vs. Multiple Worms

There is a lot of nuance to this answer. This could vary from fishermen to fishermen. I’m going to go with multiple worms for catfish and I’ll explain why in a second.

Using half a worm is ideal for smaller-mouthed fish like bluegills and even small bullheads. This is because with fish like that, you want the piece of worm they grab to allow contain the point of the hook.

Their mouths are so small, you could just pull the worm off the hook and never come close to the hook itself.

If you we are talking about using a full worm, I’m assuming we are referring to a big nightcrawler. Like I mentioned earlier, I don’t love nightcrawlers as catfish bait.

I think their sluggishness and lack of scent makes them inferior as catfish bait to red worms. You can still catch catfish with them but my choice is clear.

I think you’ll have much better success with cats if you hook multiple red worms on your line than a single nightcrawler. I also believe using 1/2 a nightcrawler or worm simply is not enough meat to draw in a hungry cat.

You have to remember catfish hunt by touch and smell. The more of both those senses you can address with your bait, the easier fishing will be.

How About Plastic Worms for Catfish?

So we have clearly demonstrated that worms and nightcrawlers work very well for catfish. Let’s go a step further. Can you use plastic worms to catch catfish?

The answer is yes. It is possible to catch catfish using plastic worms. Catfish are naturally curious predators and rely heavily on their sense of touch and smell to locate food.

Bass fishermen occasionally hook into catfish when jigging soft plastic worms. This is especially true when using “Carolina-style” worm rigs.

“…I catch a catfish or two every once in a while. I know immediately once they take the bait, the pull is too steady to be a bass.” – unnamed South Carolina bass angler.

However, I would advise strongly against targeting catfish will these soft plastic baits. You’ll be wasting your time targeting catfish this way. Catfish are very smell-driven and plastic worms give on an unnatural but delicate odor.

Catfish are used to eating fishy and dying things. There’s a reason why many of the top catfish baits and attractants small awful. Catfish may eat a plastic worm on occasion but there are so many other baits that will be better for the average catfish angler. Just put a real worm on the line.

Day-Time vs. Nighttime

Nighttime. If you had to pick between day time and nighttime to throw worms at catfish, the easy answer is night. This because catfish are the most active during the summer at night.

They aggressively ascend and descend in the water column in search of prey: living and dead. At night, there’s a decent chance your bait won’t even reach the bottom before a hungry cat scoops it up.

Don’t get me wrong though, you can still catch a lot of catfish during the day, especially in the late afternoon. But if your wife is making you pick the time you’ll be out of the house, go with night.

For a complete gear and tackle recommendation for catfish, check out my recommended catfish gear list which will help you catch more and larger catfish than anyone else.

9 Tips: More Catfish Caught Using Worms

1. Multiple Rods/Multiple Distances

When fishing for catfish, especially from shore, cast your worms out to different distances. This will ensure each of your baits will settle on the floor at different depths.

Catfish are roaming characters but they will likely be grouped in similar depths depending on temperature, food sources, and other factors. Because of this, use your first few casts as “fish finders” to locate the distance from shore they are at.

2. Poke More Holes in Worms

Worms are jam-packed with nutrients and corresponding scents. A worm with just a single hole in it will release a fraction of the scent a worm with multiple “hookings” will. Yes, hookings is a real word because I just created it.

3. Fish Bottoms Only

There are times when catfish will feed higher in the water column like at night, but for 90% of your catfish outings, put your baits flat on the bottom of the river or lake.

I really like recommended bobber striker indicators but for catfish, I won’t. You want your worm on the bottom, not hovering off the bottom.

4. Break Out Flashlights

Nighttime is the right time for catfish. Ok, they can be caught at all times of the day but nighttime cats are especially voracious feeders.

Catfish are extremely reliant upon senses other than sight so they are perfectly at home hunting in darkness. Grab your flashlights, lanterns, and a jar of nightcrawlers and start casting.

5. Add Some Scent to Worms

Worms already come well-infused with natural attractive scent. Believe it or not though, it can be improved upon.

Some avid catfishermen will dip their worms in blood or even sauerkraut. Seems a little odd but it apparently works well for them.

6. Create a Burley

Most Americans likely don’t know what a burley is. From what I gather, it is a very popular and effective way of chumming in saltwater fish in New Zealand and Australia especially.

Create your own burley by tossing ground pieces of old fish or red meat. Cornmeal can work well too but will draw in bluegills that will steal your worms.

7. Avoid Vegetation

Catfish don’t discriminate when it comes to hunting grounds. They can hunt quite actively near vegetation. I’m recommending you avoid weeds for now because bluegills love weeds.

Bluegills are the single biggest (and smallest size-wise) threat to your bait. Bluegills will strip the worms off your hook before catfish can find it.

Fish muddy bottoms away from weeds and you can bet the only thing eating your worms will be large cats.

8. Use Long-Shanked or Circle Hooks

Catfish have a tendency to swallow worms completely. This can result in a gut-hooked fish which is difficult to release.

Instead, select a long-shanked hook which is harder to swallow and easier to remove. Better yet, spring a little extra money and buy some nice circle hooks.

Circle hooks are designed to hook in the corners of fish’s mouths nearly every time.

9. Rods with Backbone

This goes without saying when fishing live bait. Make sure your rod has the backbone to handle a 10+ pound catfish. If you hook into a 30-pound blue or flathead catfish, you’ll be wishing you had the rod to handle it.

There are a lot of great fishing rod & reel combos on the market for catfish. I personally recommend this 7’0″ rod and reel combo available on Amazon for most catfish angling you can do. It offers great casting ability, a ton of backbone power, and a more reliable rod for better catfish action.

Related Questions

Are worms a naturally occurring food source for catfish?

I don’t think so. Short of worms being washed into the water by heavy rain or a kid tossing a handful of worms in the water, I can’t imagine a scenario where a worm (a creature that drowns in water), is just crawling along the bottom of a lake.

Will bullheads also bite worms?

Yes, bullheads readily consume worms presented to them. You may be lucky enough to catch catfish and bullheads in the same section of water using this bait.

One of the greatest ways whitetails communicate with each other is through the scent they leave behind. Throughout the year bucks are constantly marking their territory with scent, and scraping behavior is one of the chief ways they do it. Though bucks will work a scrape’s overhanging licking branch throughout the year their most aggressive scraping is done from October to December, when testosterone levels are highest.

Bucks will work prime licking branches 365 days a year with 80% of scraping behavior in the North occurring from mid-October to mid-November.

When a whitetail buck makes a scrape he does so where there is an attractive branch hanging along a roadway, at the edge of a field, on a well-worn trail, or in a random area he’s walking through.

In most cases a buck begins the scraping process by rubbing his forehead, preorbital, and nasal glands on the branch and in some cases will actually lick and chew on the overhanging branch. Once done, most bucks will paw the leaves and other debris from the ground under the branch, then urinate into the pawed out earth. The process usually takes less than two minutes, but during this time a buck will leave liberal amounts of scent behind. Scraping, like rubbing, allows a buck to make his presence known by dispensing scent throughout his area.

Typical scraping behavior involves leaving scent from a buck’s nasal, preorbital and forehead glands. When done working the branch bucks will paw the ground and urinate into the ground.

Hunters debate whether scraping is primarily a “buck thing” or if it’s done to attract does. During my years of photographing and hunting whitetails throughout North America, I’ve seen many does work a scrape’s licking branch. Only twice have I actually seen a doe paw the ground below the licking branch after scenting the licking branch. However, I’ve killed several does in archery season that were working a scrape’s licking branch when I released the arrow. On the other hand I’ve seen and photographed hundreds of bucks making scrapes during my career. So, based on this, it’s my view that scraping is primarily a buck behavior, a behavior they use to dispense scent and show dominance.

Though they seldom paw the ground does will actively work a scrape’s overhanging licking branch.

I believe scraping is also a satisfying, conditioned response for bucks. When working an overhanging licking branch, a buck is greatly satisfied by the branch massaging his forehead, preorbital and nasal glands. I don’t believe a buck consciously knows he is spreading his scent to other deer.

Judging from the hundreds of photos I’ve taken of scraping bucks, it appears the satisfying and stimulating aspects of scraping might explain why a buck performs scraping behavior so frequently. I’m not saying scent-depositing isn’t a big part of scraping, because it is. But I’m convinced the dynamics of scraping are incredibly complex and serve several functions, probably more than we’ll ever realize.

The age structure of a buck population heavily influences the amount of scraping that will take place. If yearling bucks dominate an area, scraping behavior will not be great. However, if there are an abundant number of 2+ year old bucks in the population, scraping sign will be very evident.

In 1990 I was a part of a scrape research project conducted on the Avery Estate in New York State where deer could be closely monitored in a natural setting. We discovered that during the two weeks leading up to peak breeding mature bucks made 6 to 12 scrapes every hour they were on their feet.

During the two weeks leading up to peak breeding mature bucks can be expected to make between 6 and 12 scrapes every hour they are on their feet.

Classifying Scrapes

The way I classify the scrapes I find has evolved over the years. When hunters began to understand the whitetail’s scraping process in the early 1970s scrapes were commonly described as “boundary, secondary and primary.” Though I’ve used these terms, I learned along the way that there was a clearer way of defining what I was finding and photographing. In order to make the scraping process easier to understand I’ve settled on referring to the scrapes I find as boundary, random and primary.

Boundary scrapes: Boundary scrapes are made as bucks travel through their territory. These scrapes often show up along the edge of fields, fence rows and old roadways. Those made along field edges are nearly always made at night. Because of this I pay little attention to these scrapes except for checking the track size. If the track is more than 2 ¼ inches wide (with no more than a ¼ inch split in the toes) the buck is probably over 2 ½ years old and nearing maturity. Such bucks will also tip the scales at over 175 pounds (live weight) in the North.

Random scrapes: Random scrapes are just that—scrapes that are made spontaneously as a buck cruises his territory. A buck will often make a random scrape whenever he comes upon an attractive licking branch and is “moved” to work the site. Seldom will they be reused and in most cases are not serious candidates for a hunting set up.

Primary scrapes: Primary scrapes are the ones hunters need to pay attention to. In many ways they are the “mother lode” of whitetail scrapes, with some having the potential of becoming very attractive to whitetail bucks. They are most often found in strategic locations—inside corners, ridge lines, and especially along well-worn trails between bedding and feeding areas during the rut.

In many instances bucks will make a line of scrapes (20 to 50 yards apart) along such trails. Because many primary scrapes are found along well-worn trails, more than one buck (and does) will work and rework them during the seeking, chasing and breeding phases of the rut. I’ve probably killed more bucks over primary scrapes along well-used runways than any other place.

Hunting scrapes in prime travel corridors can be a very successful strategy in the days leading up to peak breeding, when bucks are on the move.

Timing

Though bucks work licking branches 365 days to leave their scent, prime scraping behavior occurs in the 30 day window leading up to peak breeding, especially during the last 10 days. Once breeding kicks in scraping behavior drops off drastically. During the post-rut scraping still occurs, but it is only a fraction of what it was before the rut.

Last Flight Calls – Imposter

We all know that the decoys are pieces of the puzzle when waterfowl hunting, but to finish the puzzle, the Imposter duck call turns those fakes into the real thing. The Imposter duck call is Last Flight’s double-reed call and the newest in their line. Slightly quieter than its big brother the Illusion, don’t let this double-reed fool you, it can still get loud when you need it to. While the Imposter can cover the full range of duck sounds required to finish them tight, where it excels is in its ability to get nasty in the low-end ranges perfect for sweet talking in tight holes or the timber. Duck-worthy features include an O-ring fit insert, .410” exhaust bore, and a medium hold. It is available in acrylic, Delrin, and a hunter series all varying in price, hunter’s choice.

$120 Acrylic | lastflightcalls.net

Echo Calls – Open Water

Echo’s open water duck call is simply a classic waterfowl call that every waterfowler either has, or will own at one point. Yes, it is that good and functional. While the name implies that it should be used on big water, no surprise there, don’t let the name fool you. While the Open Water is at home on big water or open fields, it can also perform dual-purpose, with a little user finesse, on small water and in tight quarters when you need it to. Sure, if you need to ring out an ear-ringing hail call, it can certainly up the decibels, but it can also get soft and ducky when the birds get close. It is available in both acrylic and in Bois D’ Arc, bocote, and cocobolo wood configurations.

$140 Acrylic | echocalls.com

Duck Commander – The Flash

Price isn’t the only indicator of awesome, and the Duck Commander Flash proves that statement correct. Singing a smooth, silky tone that the greenheads can’t resist, the Flash can go from soft to loud in well, a flash! It utilizes Jase’s Pro series modified reed system to resist sticking like the water rolling off a duck’s back and has a double-reed design that uses the air pressure of most single reeds. It is extremely easy to blow, but also serves novices and professional callers by being able to produce the full range of duck-worthy sounds. Just when you thought it couldn’t get any better, it has a short barrel for easier hand manipulation for those of us that don’t have the hand size of an offensive lineman. Oh, and if you want it personalized, Duck Commander can engrave 15 characters for that special occasion.

$35 | duckcommander.com

Zink Calls – ATM Green Machine

When you think about an ATM, you automatically think about collecting money, am I right? Well, instead of greenbacks, Zink’s ATM Green Machine was designed to allow hunters to cash in on their favorite green, green-headed mallards that is. Using a double reed design and featuring the smooth, hen mallard sound callers want, the ATM provides greater volume and a radically improved bottom-end feed chuckle to suck them into range. This innovative call features Zink’s Z-cut, no-stick tone channel—a ground-breaking design that permits a huge range of tones while virtually eliminating reed lock, even for heavy spitters. Each call is hand-tuned and ready to rock right out of the box so, if you are looking to cash in, put the ATM on your lanyard, no transaction fees required!

$150 | zinkcalls.com

Pacific Calls – PCD

The PCD duck call from Pacific Calls is their loudest, most aggressive duck call they have ever built. Simply put, if you need to break them down from stratosphere, this call will hit them at the moon, at least, maybe further, they are still waiting for the sound to rebound. The PCD is lean, mean and ready to both break them down and finish them in the hole for your viewing pleasure. While it creates high hails like a thing of beauty, it is also at home creating those messy feeds and snotty, raspy hen sounds that the ducks eat up when they get close. Versatile is an understatement for describing the PCD, and if I had to create my own description for the PCD acronym, I would say it stands for Pure Chronic Duck.

$130 | pacificcustomcalls.com

Elite Duck Calls – Edge

As classy as it is pure duck, Elite Calls Edge duck call not only looks good on the lanyard, it produces the guttural sounds that ducks can’t resist. The Elite Edge is a double reed call that combines great volume and range with ease of operation. The Edge has a deeper tone and is raspier than other double reed calls, creating classic ducky sounds usually only found in single reed calls. While many hunters still covet single reeds for their unique tone, the Edge looks to change the game by bringing single reed sound to an easy blowing double-reed. If you are looking for a unique color combination to mix it up on your lanyard, check out the ice/black variation for some real eye appeal and get ducking.

$140 | elitecalls.net

Big Lake Outdoors Products – T-Rex

The T-Rex offers a unique approach to the typical duck call. Big Lake Outdoor Products adds both a metal and a mylar reed in the T-Rex call. This produces the ease of calling that is so well liked in a double reed. But the metal reed produces exceptional raspiness. The T-Rex is built on an open water insert that also allows more air volume. So unlike most double reeds, the T-Rex produces amplified calling characteristics.

$110 Acrylic, $50 Dymond wood | biglakeoutdoorproducts.com

Jargon Game Calls – Live Duck

Jargon’s Live Duck wasn’t designed for the stage, per say, but it was designed to replicate the real thing, hence the name. The Live Duck can articulate the complete vocabulary of the hen mallard, from the softest scratchy quacks to those loud, nasally quacks that separates the women from the girls. It features a large exhaust port with great hold that blends in a perfect amount of back pressure into every call. These features make the call extremely easy to blow but still allow for advanced note articulation by both novice and professional callers alike. If you need a call for hunting the gamut of waterfowl scenarios, or need one to refine your live duck style contest calling skills, JARGON’s Live Duck may just fit the bill, pun intended. This call will not disappoint you.

$140 | jargongamecalls.com

Haydel’s Game Calls – H2CC Cajun Cutter

Saying that Haydel’s re-invented the Cajun Cutter with their new H2CC variant would be an understatement. Instead, let’s just say that the H2CC puts a new look on a classic, making the attributes of the original not only better, but more versatile. Staring with a J-frame, the acrylic H2CC features a polished steel band and is tuned with maximum hunter versatility in mind. It is offered in both single and double reed configurations and has a small exhaust hole to allow easy control, producing a great natural tone that will produce the fabled Cajun Cutter “squeals.” It is designed and tuned to be lights out on the finesse side and ideal for callers looking to bend those notes to entice those call shy birds. The H2CC is just plain ducky, for hunters who are into that that of thing.

$140 | haydels.com

RNT – Daisy Cutter Xtreme

You know these guys. Rich-N-Tone’s original Daisy Cutter duck call, simply put, is a classic that likely every waterfowl hunter surely knows by name. The Daisy Cutter Xtreme, or DCX for short, is simply a higher-octane version of its predecessor that is still capable of producing those sweet hen sounds that gets the mallard drakes drooling. By modifying the original Daisy Cutter’s design, RNT slightly turned up the volume and enhanced its aggressive nature while maintaining a perfect balance of backpressure all while pushing the calls rasp to an Xtreme jaw jarring new level. If you like raspy, this one has enough rasp for you, your neighbor, and the guy two streets over! It is available in both acrylic and cocobolo or grandillo wood versions, all sure to sweet-talk those greenheads into range.

$145 Acrylic | rntcalls.com

DJ Calls – LLC Cut-Down Kit

Don’t cut down your classic Olt duck call! Instead check out DJ Calls Cutdown Kit. Their Cutdown Kit is a blasted black acrylic barrel with three different tonals, each cut differently. The tonals are made of hard rubber, just like the original Olts used to have back when they made their hard rubber keyholes. Like the Olts, DJ Calls also has the keyhole, for maximum versatility. The three tonal cuts include: Arkansas, Louisiana, and Quincy styles with .015” reed thickness on the Arkansas and Louisiana and a .020” tapered shave on the Quincy. Consequently, the Quincy is slightly harder to blow, but this is the original cutdown call design. While the blasted black acrylic replicates the original to a “T”, DJ Calls also has other variants to spice things up.

$180 | djcalls.com

Big Lake Outdoors Products – Pintail Passion

Pintails are one of the most alluring of all duck species and special attention to quality and sound is deserved with a pintail whistle. Big Lake Outdoor Products offers the well-known “Maurilio” whistles that provide exceptional sounds. The Pintail Passion has a roller ball that produces the beautiful trills and peeps of pintails and wigeon. This jatobe wood call has two ports that allow you to alter the sound from high-to-low to mimic more than one duck.

$40 | biglakeoutdoorproducts.com

Wingert’s Wood-Works – Duck Whistle

They don’t have contests for duck whistles, but they probably should. Truly custom pieces of duck art, each Wingert’s call is one part hunting function and one part conversation piece. Duck whistles are the most underrated calls on a hunter’s lanyard, and not just for hunting pintails or wigeon, but every species. If you don’t already own one, you are truly missing out on a game-changing apparatus for your lanyard. This is where Wingert’s comes in. Their whistles are available in wood, acrylic, and many other variations including stabilized spalted wood and burls and even micarta. While they all serve the same purpose, you are definitely missing out of you don’t go with one of the more custom and unique choices, as these calls are heirloom quality and do not disappoint. And hey, GQ fashion in a duck blind is a thing, isn’t it?

$75 | wingertswoodworks.com

There are so many choices when it comes to Sniper Rifles in the original Warzone, but some are simply better than others. We came up with a list of the best meta sniper rifle loadouts in Warzone Caldera.

Warzone still remains one of the greatest battle royales when it comes to weapon diversity, each weapon has its own character. Sadly, the nerfs in Season 3 made it so only a handful of the battle royale’s sniper rifles can still one-shot opponents.

To help you find the best sniper in Warzone, we’ve covered all the top-tier loadouts and attachments that maximize their efficiency. Whether you’re looking to increase your lethality or just wish to claim more long-range kills, then you can’t go wrong with these picks.

Remember, if you’re ready to dive into Warzone 2 and want to know which top-tier weapons to use, be sure to check out our list of the best Sniper Rifles to use in Warzone 2.

Contents

• What is the best sniper in Warzone?
• Best snipers in Warzone
• Best Warzone sniper support weapons

What is the best sniper in Warzone?

The best Sniper Rifle in Warzone is the Gorenko Anti-Tank Rifle. Currently, this sniper has the highest KD ratio and win rate out of all the rifles in the game and it’s easy to see why.

The Gorenko offers unmatched damage at long-range and while the 3 Line Rifle is a close contender, the Gorenko comes out on top thanks to its raw firepower.

12. Best Type 99 loadout

Attachments

• Muzzle: Mercury Silencer
• Barrel: Shiraishi 712mm Sniper
• Optic: 1913 Variable 4-8x
• Stock: Sakura CVR Custom
• Underbarrel: M1930 Strife Angled
• Magazine: 5.6mm 8 Round Mags
• Ammunition: FMJ Rounds
• Rear Grip: Leather Grip
• Perk 1: Discard
• Perk 2: Deep Breath

While the Type 99 may not be the most popular Sniper Rifle in Warzone, it’s still a pretty fun gun to use. Closer to the Kar98 and Swiss than some of the other options, the Type 99 is a relatively versatile sniper with good range and speed.

If you’re bored of the better options, check this Type 99 class out. But, if you find it underwhelming (which you probably will), then swap to something deadlier — like the other snipers on this list.

11. Best M82 loadout

Attachments

• Muzzle: Infantry Stabilizer
• Barrel: 22.6″ Combat Recon
• Stock: Tactical Stock
• Magazine: STANAG 9 Rnd
• Rear Grip: Airborne Elastic Wrap

The M82 is a perfectly viable option in Warzone and we believe its power is nothing to scoff at. It may lack mobility compared to the higher-ranked Sniper Rifles on this list, but that isn’t to say the M82 isn’t worth taking out onto the battlefield.

Give it a go, and make sure to consult our detailed setup for the M82.

10. Best AX-50 loadout

Attachments

• Muzzle: Monolithic Suppressor
• Barrel: 32.0″ Factory Barrel
• Laser: Tac Laser
• Stock: Singuard Arms Assassin
• Rear Grip: Stippled Grip Tape

A tried and tested fan-favorite over the years, the AX-50 is a solid choice but falls short compared to the other meta options in Season 5 Reloaded. While it can’t down people across the map quite as easily as the HDR and Gorenko, it’s a much more versatile option given its mobility, aim-down-sight (ADS), and firing rate advantages.

This AX-50 class maintains enough bullet velocity and accuracy to prove lethal from range, while still enjoying some mobility. You can be fairly comfortable pulling it out for a quick down during a gunfight before pushing with an AR or SMG.

Making this gun even more mobile to use is the Tac Laser, Singuard Arms Assassin Stock, and Stippled Grip Tape. The gun is quite versatile as Swagg was even able to turn it into the Intervention from Modern Warfare 2.

Make sure to check out our full breakdown of the best AX-50 loadout in Warzone right here.

9. Best Tundra loadout

Attachments

• Barrel: 29.1″ Combat Recon
• Laser: Ember Sighting Point
• Optic: Ultrazoom Custom
• Underbarrel: Patrol Grip
• Magazine: Vandal Speed Loader

Despite receiving a set of hefty buffs back in the Season 5 patch, the LW3 Tundra is still sitting outside of the meta top 5. However, it’s still a powerful choice in the right players’ hands, and with the increase in damage range, it’s in a better state than ever before.

Our Tundra loadout above has great kill potential and even though it isn’t the most popular Sniper Rifle currently in Warzone, it definitely packs a punch.

8. Best Swiss K31 loadout

Attachments

• Muzzle: GRU Suppressor
• Barrel: 24.9” Combat Recon
• Laser: SWAT 5mw Laser Sight
• Underbarrel: Bruiser Grip
• Rear Grip: Serpent Grip

A victim of Raven’s Season 3 nerfs, the Swiss is no longer a guaranteed one-shot down to the head anymore, stunting some of its use.

Although no longer dominant as it once was, the Swiss is still fast, has a clean default scope and reticle, and it downs enemies quite efficiently. Like the Kar98k, the Swiss is all about fast ADS, quick shots, and precision.

For a full, detailed breakdown of the best Swiss K31 loadout in Warzone, check out our dedicated class guide.

7. Best Pelington 703 loadout

Attachments

• Muzzle: Stabilizer .308
• Barrel: 25″ Extended
• Stock: Duster Stock
• Magazine: Vandal Speed Loader
• Rear Grip: Field Tape

The Pelington 703 is a good Sniper Rifle for aggressive Warzone players who prefer to take quick shots. While the weapon definitely won’t do as much damage as the Gorenko or 3-Line Rifle, it does provide you with more mobility and a reduced ADS speed.

Also, with Raven buffing the Pellington’s damage in Season 5 Reloaded, it’s brilliant when paired up with a meta SMG or AR.

It’s worth noting that to knock an opponent with the Pelington, you’ll need to land headshots. So, if you’ve got a sharp aim and prefer a less stationary playstyle, consider picking up the Pelington and trying this loadout.

6. Best HDR loadout

Attachments

• Muzzle: Monolithic Suppressor
• Barrel: 26.9” HDR Pro
• Laser: Tac Laser
• Optic: Variable Zoom Scope
• Stock: FTAC Champion

Following on from the Warzone Sniper weapon nerfs in Season 3, the HDR once again became a viable option thanks to its overwhelming firepower.

If you’ve ever been downed from hundreds of yards away out of nowhere, then it was probably the HDR. While this gun is heavy and slow-moving, both are entirely negligible, especially given its incredible kill potential.

This is the best HDR loadout for those who want to claim a bounty of long-range kills. It’s not about moving around, downing an enemy, and rushing in with a numbers advantage. It’s about sitting back, taking out enemies from afar, and trying to claim cross-map headshots.

Make sure to check out our full breakdown of the best HDR loadout in Warzone right here.

5. Best Kar98k loadout (Modern Warfare)

Attachments

• Muzzle: Monolithic Suppressor
• Barrel: Singuard Custom 27.6″
• Optic: Sniper Scope
• Laser: Tac Laser
• Perk: FTAC Sport Comb

For what seemed like an eternity, this gun was deemed to be the best sniper in Warzone by many pros and content creators alike. It took a long, long time, but the Kar98k is no longer the king of Warzone.

The fastest ADS and mobility of the gun means it’s still a great gun to use, although its one-shot ability has been greatly tamed.

The only question mark about this Kar98 loadout is the Sleight of Hand usage, which is great for reload speed and gun swapping but can be sacrificed if you’re struggling to hit shots. If that’s the case, you can consider the Precision or the FTAC Sport Comb instead.

Make sure to check out our full breakdown of the best Kar98k loadout in Warzone right here.

4. Best Kar98k loadout (Vanguard)

Attachments

• Muzzle: Scout Silencer
• Barrel: VDD RE02K
• Stock: Short Stock
• Underbarrel: SMLE Pistol Grip
• Magazine: 8MM Klauser 5 Round Fast Mag
• Ammunition: FMJ Rounds
• Rear Grip: Leather Grip
• Perk: Fleet
• Perk 2: Fully Loaded

With absolutely insane ADS speeds and a one-shot kill of up to 100 meters, the Vanguard Kar98k is ideal for aggressive Warzone players.

While you will need to be a sharpshooter with a solid aim to make this gun shine, it’s deadly in the hands of players who can quick scope their opponents from a distance.

Although the gun won’t be eliminating enemies in a single shot from massively long distances, it makes up for this shortcoming with its absurd ADS speeds and mobility.

3. Best ZRG 20mm loadout

Attachments

• Muzzle: Wrapped Suppressor
• Barrel: 43.9″ Combat Recon
• Laser: SWAT 5mw Laser Sight
• Stock: 5 Rnd
• Rear Grip: Serpent Grip

Taking the third spot is none other than the ZRG 20mm Sniper Rifle from Black Ops Cold War.

Again, significant shifts in the game’s meta have allowed some underrated guns to flourish. None more so than the ZRG 20mm, which did enjoy some success when it first came out, but it has quickly become a fan favorite.

While it can’t quite contend with the 3-Line Rifle and Gorenko, its fantastic speed and great bullet velocity do make it much easier to use. Even Call of Duty streamer IceManIsaac has singled out one of the best Warzone sniper loadouts to try for the unstoppable ZRG 20mm Sniper Rifle.

Check out our own top ZRG 20mm loadout too.

2. Best 3-Line Rifle loadout

Attachments

• Muzzle: Mercury Silencer
• Barrel: Kovalevskaya 820mm R1MN
• Optic: 1913 Variable 4-8x
• Stock: ZAC Custom MZ
• Underbarrel: Mark VI Skeletal
• Magazine: .30-06 20 Round Mags
• Ammunition: Lengthened
• Rear Grip: Leather Grip
• Perk 1: Silent Focus
• Perk 2: On-Hand

The 3 Line-Rifle was ignored for a long time by a lot of Warzone players but a hefty set of buffs in Season 5 finally brought the gun into the fold.

Since then the rifle has been a dominant pick on Caldera that deals lethal amounts of damage. Which is why this is one of the best Warzone sniper loadouts out there.

Not only that, it’s currently the most popular rifle in the game and players are seeing a lot of success with the weapon, so don’t hesitate to make the most of this powerful sniper.

To make sure it’s the best it can be, we have a complete guide to the best 3-Line Rifle loadout here.

1. Gorenko Anti-Tank Rifle

Attachments

• Muzzle: Mercury Silencer
• Barrel: 420mm Empress
• Optic: 1913 Variable 4-8x
• Stock: Reinforced Stock
• Underbarrel: GF-59 Flashlight
• Magazine: 13mm AM 10 Round Mags
• Ammunition: FMJ Rounds
• Rear Grip: Leather Grip
• Perk: Focus
• Perk 2: On-Hand

The Gorenko burst into the meta in Season 5, establishing itself as one of the best Warzone sniper rifle and loadout after the one-shot nerfs to the Kar98k and Swiss. Now, the gun reigns as the top sniper in Warzone thanks to its lethality at long-range which makes it perfect for picking off opponents.

While it did get hit with a bullet velocity nerf in Season 5 Reloaded, this wasn’t enough to knock it off the top spot. It remains a devastating sniper option in the right players’ hands and offers a huge amount of damage at long range.

Best Warzone sniper support weapons

Once you’ve decided on the best Warzone sniper loadout for your individual playstyle, it’s then important you pick a solid secondary or support weapon.

Seeing as Sniper Rifles are ideal at long range, your best bet will be to find a weapon that is good at close and medium-range engagements, leaning toward whichever suits you best. We’ve listed three separate weapon loadouts that are perfect when paired with any of the sniper loadouts above.

1. Best Armguerra Warzone loadout

• Muzzle: Recoil Booster
• Barrel: Botti 315mm CII
• Optic: Slate Reflector
• Stock: Imerito SA Folding
• Underbarrel: Mark VI Skeletal
• Magazine: 9mm 60 Round Mags
• Ammo Type: Lengthened
• Rear Grip: Polymer Grip
• Perk: Hardscope
• Perk2: On-Hand

2. Best XM4 loadout

• Muzzle: Agency Suppressor
• Barrel: 13.5″ Task Force
• Optic: Axial Arms 3x
• Ammunition: STANAG 60 Round
• Underbarrel: Field Agent Grip

3. Best MP40 loadout

• Muzzle: Recoil Booster
• Barrel: Krausnick 317mm 04B
• Optic: Slate Reflector
• Stock: Krausnick 33M Folding
• Underbarrel: m1941 Hand Stop
• Magazine: 7.62 Gorenko 45 Round Mags
• Ammo Type: Hollow Point
• Rear Grip: Polymer Grip
• Proficiency: Steady
• Kit: Quick

While many support weapons complement a sniper loadout in Warzone, if you’re struggling to find that perfect fit, these three should prove to be successful in the BR.

Looking for more of the best Warzone loadouts and tips? Check out our list of guides below:

Best Warzone settings to increase FPS on PC | Most popular Warzone weapons | Best Warzone loadouts | Call of Duty Warzone Mobile: Everything we know | What is Sabotage Contract in Warzone? | How to level up Vanguard weapons fast for Warzone

If you click on a product link on this page we may earn a small affiliate commission.

When it comes to the debate of longbow versus recurve, there are several factors to consider.

The longbow is traditional, requiring skill and strength for its longer draw length, while the recurve bow is more compact and versatile, with a shorter draw length but still offering speed and accuracy.

Longbows lack those swept tips, but their limbs bend gracefully throughout the bow’s length. Recurve bows draw more smoothly, in general, but bow designs play significant roles in how they draw.

Well-designed longbows can be incredibly smooth, especially if their length matches the archer’s draw length. Taller archers, for example, find longer bows smoother to draw than shorter bows. If you have to buy between the two, shoot some recurves and longbows at an archery shop, and choose the one that puts the biggest smile on your face.

Longbow

The longbow, with its simple design and long limbs, has a rich historical background and offers a sense of traditional archery. It requires a higher level of skill and strength to shoot effectively, but its longer draw length can deliver impressive power and accuracy. Longbows are ideal for

• Casual shooting
• Target shooting
• Field shooting
• 3d archery
• Hunting

Recurve

The recurve bow, with its curved limbs, provides a more compact and maneuverable option. It is favored by many modern archers due to its versatility and ease of use. The recurve bow’s shorter draw length can still generate considerable speed and accuracy, making it popular for target shooting and competitive archery.

A recurve bow stores more energy and delivers energy more efficiently than the equivalent straight-limbed bow, giving a greater amount of energy and speed to the arrow. this is currently the only bow type allowed in the Olympic games.

Some advantages are as follows:

• Recurves offer great power, speed, and accuracy over longbows.
• Recurve bows retain speed/power at lighter draw weights, which can be increased by purchasing new limbs
• Recurves can be broken down, making them easy to store and transport.
• Recurve bows are very versatile as they’re an accepted bow type in many different archery disciplines.
• Recurves can be used for hunting because of the increased speed/power.

Recurve vs Longbow for Beginners

When choosing between a recurve bow and a longbow for beginners, consider versatility and tradition. Recurve bows offer adaptability and are versatile for various archery styles, while longbows have a classic charm and a steeper learning curve due to their traditional design

Range

In general, recurve bows have a slightly longer effective range than longbows, usually up to 60-70 yards due to their design allowing for better energy storage and transfer.

Longbows, while still capable, typically have a slightly shorter range of around 50-60 yards.

Archer’s skill also plays a significant role in range and accuracy.

Accuracy

When it comes to longbow vs recurve accuracy, recurves are generally more accurate but only when an archer uses the proper form.

The synthetic materials of recurve allow economic, predictable manufacture for consistent performance.

The greater mass of a modern bow is in itself an aid to stability, and therefore accuracy.

Arrow Speed

In terms of arrow velocity, recurve bows typically have a slight advantage over longbows due to their design, allowing for more energy storage and faster arrow speeds.

For Hunting

When deciding between a recurve bow and a longbow for hunting, the choice hinges on your hunting style and personal preferences.

Recurve bows offer versatility, adjustability, and good arrow speed, making them suitable for various game and hunting scenarios, while longbows excel in stealth and offer a traditional hunting experience, albeit requiring more skill for accuracy due to their longer draw length.

Ultimately, the decision should align with your hunting approach and comfort with each bow’s characteristics, ensuring a successful and enjoyable hunting experience.

Material

The traditional construction of a longbow consists of drying the yew wood for 1 to 2 years, then slowly working the wood into shape, with the entire process taking up to four years. The bow stave is shaped to have a D cross-section.

The recurve consists of limbs and a riser (the center section of the bow). The limbs are usually made from multiple layers of fiberglass, carbon, and/or wood on a core of carbon foam or wood. The riser is generally separate and is constructed from wood, carbon, aluminum alloy, or magnesium alloy.

Bow Noise

A bow that shoots quietly is a top feature for many of today’s archers. When it comes to generating bow noise, vibrations and the twang of the bowstring are responsible. Longbows are quieter than recurves because the string doesn’t hit the limbs as much, in turn resulting in less string slap.

String

Longbow strings are made of hemp, flax, or silk, and attached to the wood via horn “nocks” that fit onto the end of the bow. Modern synthetic materials are now commonly also used for strings in recurve. The cord of the recurve attaches to both limb tips and transforms stored energy from the limbs into kinetic energy in the arrow

Smoothness

Recurves generally have a smoother draw when compared to longbows. However, a longbow can also be smooth if the length of the bow matches the archer’s draw length. Most archers want a smooth drawing bow so they choose to recurve.

Size and Mobility

Recurves are generally smaller than longbows. Longbows range in size from 5 ½ feet to 6 feet or more. While there are a few takedown longbow options available, the majority of longbows don’t offer this option.

Portability

Recurve easily break into smaller pieces to transport them from one place to another. Takedown longbows are very popular because recurve is so easy to transport.

Adjustability

Recurves have more tuning options, making them much more versatile. Recurve bows allow the use of arrow rest, sights, stabilizers, and some bows allow you to swap out different limbs. While the longbow lacks these characteristics.

Modern Use

No English longbows survive from the period when the longbow was dominant (c. 1250-1450), probably because bows became weaker, broke, and were replaced rather than being handed down through generations.

The modern recurve is the only form of bow permitted in the Olympics (though the compound bow is permitted in some categories at the Paralympic Games) and is the most widely used by European and Asian sporting archers.

Hunting Performance

Some modern hunting recurves are one-piece bows. Hunters often prefer one-piece bows over take-down bows, because the limb pockets on take-down bows can make unwanted noise while drawing.

Even though both bow types work well for hunting, recurves tend to generate more power. Speed and power are important in hunting situations for accuracy and humane reasons. Due to the less accuracy and less power longbow is very rarely used in hunting.

Nostalgia

Longbows have a long history and were the original bow design. This is the bow type for archers who enjoy the historical appeal of medieval archery. While longbows may have been the original bow design, there’s no need to rule out recurve bows.

Availability

Availability of longbow vs recurve. Recurves are now considered to be the modern standard as this bow type provides archers with many options. This means you can expect to see a much larger selection of recurve bows available for purchase vs longbows.

If you’re a competitive archer who wants to participate in tournaments, clubs, and/or the Olympics, choosing a recurve is the right bow choice for you.

Social Importance

The importance of the longbow in English culture can be seen in the legends of Robin Hood, which increasingly depicted him as a master archer, and also in the “Song of the Bow”, a poem from The White Company by Sir Arthur Conan Doyle.

Vandal Savage showed talents with a composite recurve bow on the Young Justice episode Evolution.

CONCLUSION

Now that we’ve covered the similarities and differences between recurves and longbows, you should have a better idea of what is right for you. Since each bow type comes with its unique benefits, you must decide which one will best support your style of shooting. You can read here is a recurve bow better than a longbow?

The lightweight and quiet longbows make for a basic, fun way to try archery. While the high performance, small size, and large availability of recurve bows help provide more accuracy and precision.

Raccoons are common cohabitors with humans all across North America. These large and furry critters are definitely charming, at least when they are at rest, thanks to their dusky gray fur, iconic black mask, and ringed, puffy tail.

And those little paws that are so much like hands in their dexterity!

Precious, but these mobile mammalian miscreants have something of an unsavory reputation thanks to their propensity for breaking into trash, sheds, and even homes in search of food, even stealing it right out the bowls of our pets. The nerve of these procyons!

Unlike most other mammalian pests raccoons represent something of a challenge when it comes time to get rid of them, or relocate them.

This is due to their high intelligence, dexterity, and persistence which put most other animals to shame.

You can find hours and hours of video content on YouTube and elsewhere chronicling people’s trials and tribulations attempting to catch or otherwise dispatch these clever adversaries.

But as it turns out raccoons do have one weakness, an Achilles’ heel you might say. They love food, really love it.

Since they are so preoccupied with obtaining choice and delicious fare it is easy to manipulate raccoons into a trap or a spot where they are easy to dispatch by luring them with the right bait. In this article, we will share with you 10 foods that make ideal raccoon bait.

Know Your Enemy

Before you can set off placing bait for any animal you want to catch, it is beneficial to know a little bit about its behaviors, preferences, and food acquisition strategies.

Raccoons are absolutely voracious and vigorous pilferers of any sort of food stuff that they have access to, from the leftovers and kitchen scraps and trash cans to a bowl of dog or kitty litter left out for the family pet. Nothing seems to be safe or beyond interest for these furry thieves!

That is because raccoons are omnivorous, and indeed might be one of the most omnivorous animals on Earth.

This means that they eat a varied and mixed diet, consisting of animal, insect, and plant matter. Worms and insects are favorites as are aquatic items like crayfish.

That being said, raccoons are noted through study as developing strong individual preferences for food, and in social settings, raccoons occupying a given area will strongly gravitate towards foods typical in that area.

Urbanized raccoons will develop a fondness for human food and often pet food. Raccoons living in more remote places will eat a mixed diet of insects, worms, nuts, berries, and other natural fares.

Though they do not take larger live prey often if ever, they will happily scavenge from carcasses or found sources of animal protein.

Curiously, raccoons always show a strong preference for very moist food and even indulge in what is known as “washing” behavior when they have a water source nearby: they dip and rub their food in water before consuming it.

If you notice a strong bias towards wet, moist, and juicy food on our list below, you’ll now know why!

Raccoons are also highly motivated by scent, and that means the more fragrance that is generated the more appetizing and irresistible it will be for the raccoon in question.

This means that foods that are oily, stinky, or otherwise known for potent fragrance will be your best bet much of the time. Class dismissed, let’s get to the list.

The Best Raccoon Baits You Can Use

1. Marshmallows

Believe it or not, quite a few pest control professionals and several raccoon-catching experts will advocate the use of marshmallows for catching raccoons in suburban and urban areas.

First, these raccoons usually take up with sugary, sweet human foods pretty quickly and some folks even postulate the bright white coloring of the marshmallow catches moonlight at night when raccoons are most active, arousing their curiosity since they might mistake it for bird or reptile eggs, one of their most commonly poached food items in the wild.

If you want to try marshmallows for nabbing a raccoon lurking around your property, you should try both the small, button-sized ones and the larger, extra fluffy ones.

The raccoons might show a preference for one or the other, or they might not, but you should not underestimate how many a raccoon could eat in a short time.

You might need a backup bag to keep enticing them, and remember that raccoons are social, so they are likely to be traveling with friends!

2. Sardines

It is harder to think of a food it is more intensely, ah, flavored and more pungent than sardines.

These cans of tiny fish are definitely a love it or hate it delicacy among humans, and a surefire way to start a fight on pizza night is to include them on a pie intended for sharing.

Nonetheless, raccoons that are acclimatized to aquatic foodstuffs will find them utterly irresistible.

As mentioned above, raccoons have a preference for moist and highly odorific food and sardines check both of those boxes with big, bold red markers.

Sardines will dry out reasonably quickly when removed from their can, so consider dumping them out into a bowl or small dish that will help keep them moist.

Additionally, the larger the surface area that you can provide for their oil will only increase the loft or throw of the scent, increasing the chances that the raccoon will detect it sooner.

3. Peanut Butter

There hardly seems to be a mammal you cannot catch with peanut butter. Mice and rats love it, dogs love it, and as it turns out raccoons lose their minds for the stuff.

This is because the raccoons have always displayed a strong preference for acorns, walnuts, and other nuts throughout history and they are a staple foodstuff for wild raccoons that have not been exposed to human activity or human trash.

You can easily exploit this baked-in preference for delicious nuts by using peanut butter as bait.

Yes, I know that peanuts aren’t real nuts, but they are not analogs as far as food is concerned and are packed with protein and fat which means raccoons will love them.

Peanut butter always has an advantage as bait because it is cheap, and plentiful and the smell won’t drive you out of your mind. It is also easy to set up in or around a trap in any way that might be desired.

4. Roasted Poultry

Roasted poultry is fine raccoon bait, and smells just as appetizing to them as it does to us.

Contrary to legend, it is a vanishing rarity that a raccoon could ever catch and eat a live bird if it was even to attempt at all, though they are in veteran consumers of both bird and reptile eggs as mentioned above.

That being said, you will not find a raccoon in the land that will turn down a delicious dinner of roasted turkey or chicken.

You can use scraps of meat from your own meal, old leftovers that you were going to throw out anyway or even cold cuts from the deli counter that you heat up and slather with a little broth or gravy.

All you need to remember is that raccoons show a strong preference for wet or moist food, so don’t let it dry out and you’ll ensure that the scent stays on the wind and the raccoons will be drawn in like moths to a flame.

5. Roasted Pork

Similar to the roasted poultry entry above, there is just something about a roasted ham slice that raccoons cannot resist. And who can blame them!

Pork is fatty, salty, and delicious according to most human methods of preparation, and the same characteristics that make pork desirable to us mean it will be desirable to the masked bandits.

You have all sorts of ways to prepare pork and any one of them will do fine for raccoon catching so long as you follow the guidelines.

Scraps of pork pulled from a whole hog that has been barbecued are ideal, as are thick-cut ham steaks, something the raccoon can really sink its teeth into.

But you could use thicker dinner cut pork slices, pork chops, or even thin-sliced deli ham. Just remember to keep it moist one way or the other and it won’t be long before your guests show up.

6. Tuna

By now you probably saw the heading for this entry and nodded to yourself: “Yep, that’s good raccoon bait!”.

And you’d be right because tuna is fish, which raccoons typically love, stinky and wet and just the way they like it.

This makes tuna a triple threat for raccoons that works about as well as a mind-control spell. They cannot help themselves!

Tuna has a major advantage for catching raccoons in that typically wild raccoons as well as urbanized ones both enjoy it, so if you are ever in doubt you can head down to the grocery store or even your local corner store and grab a couple of cans.

Just make sure you get tuna that is packaged in oil, not water, if at all possible. Remember, the stinkier the better!

7. Soft Candy

Soft candies of various kinds are another good bait option for raccoons in an urban or suburban environment.

Remember that raccoons are opportunists, and there have been plenty of sweet treats pillaged by these tricky little rascals either sitting in storage, in transit or thrown out in the trash.

That means that raccoons occupying these environments have a serious sweet tooth, a sweet tooth you can exploit.

You should choose candies that are soft and easy to eat not only to make them more palatable but also to ensure that more of their scent gets on the wind.

Assuming the candy will hold up to some extra moisture, it might be a good idea to wet them gently in order to increase their fragrance, and don’t worry about it if they get caught in the rain. Raccoons never mind soggy food!

8. Fruit

Raccoons are perennial fruit eaters, of all kinds, and they especially love soft, juicy sweet fruits like watermelon, cantaloupe and pineapple.

That being said they will eat pretty much any kind of fruit, from plums and grapes to berries and apples. So long as the fruit is cut open or the raccoons can smell it they will be drawn to it.

Brightly colored fruit seems to work best but you can use anything you have on hand. Fresh fruit will work as will canned fruit, so you don’t need to be picky because raccoons sure aren’t.

That being said, make sure you keep a close eye on your bait and refresh the fruit when it starts to rot or dissolve away. Fruit more than most bait seems to do best when it is fresher.

9. Soy Sauce

Soy sauce is not a food per se but it is a condiment and therefore it is technically a food for the purposes of this list.

Regardless, it is extremely pungent and can be poured on other items to greatly increase the loft of its scent, making it a sort of “amplifier” for other baits.

This can be used with otherwise only modestly-appealing baits like bread or added to high-quality baits like roasted pork or poultry to make a dish that will be calling in raccoons from across the county.

If you are struggling to catch a raccoon with what baits you have on hand, consider adding a little shot of warmed soy sauce to it and pouring some extra on the plate or around the dish where you have placed the bait.

This will always give raccoons extra incentive to investigate the intoxicating aroma.

10. Cat/Dog Food

You should have figured this one out long before you ever thought about actually having to get around to catching the raccoon.

Most people find themselves in this situation because of chronically stolen pet food and increasing numbers of hungry, grasping little hands looking for a handout at night.

Raccoons love pet food, particularly cat and dog kibble as well as the ever-precious wet food.

You don’t need to swim uphill if you are trying to bait a raccoon that has been stealing your pet’s food.

Simply relocate some of the food into the animal trap or killzone and wait for the little mongrel to show up and collect his due.

As always, wet food generally works better but if you have dry food that’s okay, simply put out a little dish of water to go with it because apparently there is nothing raccoons love more than dipping dry pet food in a nearby bowl of water.

Conclusion

Raccoons are the half-glutton, half-gourmand of the animal world, and there is a wide variety of baits that will work wonderfully when it comes time to lure them into a diy trap or an ambush.

Read over the suggested baits we have furnished you with on this list and assess them against the environment your raccoons are in. I have no doubt that you’ll have a handful that will work wonderfully.

Massachusetts hunters are preparing for the approaching spring turkey season. Subject to limitations, the season will last for several weeks and include the Youth Turkey Hunt Day. This article will go through the specifics of the Massachusetts turkey season, including crucial dates, rules, and advice on a productive hunt. So gather your supplies, and let’s begin!

Massachusetts Turkey Season 2024

During this season, a hunting or sports license, a turkey permit, and three turkey tags are needed to hunt wild turkeys in Massachusetts. For the eleventh season, beginning in April, turkey hunting will also be permitted on Cape Cod National Seashore.

MA Youth Turkey Season

MA Youth Turkey SeasonSeason Start DateSeason End Date Big Game Zones 1-13 (Youth Hunt:)22-Apr22-Apr

MA Spring Turkey Season

MA Sping Turkey SeasonSeason Start DateSeason End Date Big Game (Zones 1-13)24-Apr20-May

MA Fall Turkey Season

MA Fall Turkey SeasonHunting Season Start DateHunting Season End Date Big Game (Zones 10-13***)2-Oct25-Nov Big Game (Zones 1-9***)16-Oct25-Nov

From October 16 through October 28, 2024, hunters may use shotguns, muzzleloading shotguns, and archery tools during the autumn turkey hunting season in wildlife management zones 1 through 13. However, only archery gear is permitted during specific times of the fall season. The tables that are presented offer further information on these times.

Permitted EquipmentStart DatesEnd Dates WMZ 1-9 No fall turkey hunting2-Oct14-Oct Shotgun, muzzleloading16-Oct28-Oct Archery only30-Oct25-Nov WMZ 10-13 Archery only2-Oct14-Oct Shotgun, muzzleloading, archery16-Oct28-Oct Archery only30-Oct25-Nov

Bag Limits

SeasonBag LimitNotes Spring2 bearded birds2 birds may be harvested on the same day Fall1 turkey of either sex

Turkey Licenses

LicensesFees Turkey Permit, Resident$10.00 Turkey Permit, Non-resident$15.00 Resident Hunting$29.50 Resident Hunting (Age 65-69)$14.75

Note: For the entire Hunting license list, view it on the mass.gov website

Hunting Regulations

• Massachusetts turkey hunters need licenses and permits. Massachusetts requires a Hunting or Sporting License, a Turkey permit, and a Safety sticker. Non-residents require a Big game license, Turkey permission, and a Safety sticker. Turkey hunting with a shotgun or muzzleloader requires a safety sticker. Sighting down the barrel requires this sticker. Visit any MassWildlife office or contact [email protected] to get a new sticker.

• Turkey hunting equipment rules vary in spring. Shotgun hunting is limited to gauge 10 and shot size #4. Smoothbore shotguns may only be.775 calibers and #4 shot size for muzzleloader hunting. Archery equipment must have a draw weight of at least 40 lbs at 28 inches or peak draw and well-sharpened steel broadhead blades of at least 7/8 inches. Expanding broadheads and portable releases are permitted, but airbows are not. Permitted disabled hunters may use crossbows.

• During the autumn turkey season in Massachusetts, hunters must wear blaze orange caps in Wildlife Management Areas stocked with pheasants or quail.

• Massachusetts, licensed turkey hunters may call turkeys for other hunters but cannot carry firearms or archery equipment if they have surpassed the season limit. Even without tags, the caller needs a license and Turkey permission. Massachusetts turkey hunters cannot utilize electronic calls, dogs, bait, drive or herd birds, or live decoys.

• Hunters must rescue and utilize dead or injured game animals. The animal must be maintained or sent to someone else for processing. Damaged, decaying, ill, or contaminated animals are exempt from this regulation.

• Massachusetts residents must report turkey harvests within 48 hours at a check station or online via MassFishHunt. After harvesting the turkey, you must affix the paper tag from your permit to the carcass and keep it intact until it is reported and processed for food or taxidermy. Online harvesters must put their confirmation number on the carcass tag.

• Massachusetts has spring and fall turkey seasons. Spring runs from the final Monday of April to the fourth Saturday. Wildlife management zones (WMZs) affect fall. WMZ 1-9’s season runs from the 6th Monday before Thanksgiving to the Saturday after. WMZ 10-13’s season runs from the 8th Monday before Thanksgiving to the Saturday after. Sunday hunting is prohibited. There is a special kids’ turkey hunt on the Saturday before spring. This hunt requires the young turkey program and Basic hunter education.

Note: For Complete Massachusetts Turkey hunting regulation, you review the Commonwealth of Massachusetts website

FAQ: Turkey Season in Massachusetts

Many deer and elk hunters consider antlers to be a major part of the pursuit. To others, antlers are important only to determine the legality of a buck or bull in areas where there are minimum antler tine restrictions. Hunters interested only in meat could care less about what the animal wears on its head. A cow elk or doe deer is most welcome. But those antlers have another value. Each year, in mid to late winter, all members of the deer family (all subspecies of deer, elk, moose and caribou) shed their antlers. The peak of the shedding season depends on the region. For example, bucks in Florida may shed at a different time than bucks in Texas.

Shed hunting has been growing in popularity for several reasons. One is simply the thrill of discovering an antler lying on the ground. To many, especially folks from more urban areas, this is a big deal. The antler will be cherished and perhaps displayed in their home. Hunters also use sheds as clues betraying the patterns of deer. The location of the shed tells the hunter that the buck was present in that spot in the winter. Perhaps the buck was the target animal that had been viewed via trail cams. The discovery of a particular shed may reassure hunters that the buck survived the season. Now that he’s minus his antlers the buck will hopefully be around next season with even larger antlers. Hunters who want to become familiar with deer behavior and habits in new country can get a good idea of the quality of bucks by locating sheds. Finally, sheds can be worth big bucks (pun intended). In fact, according to serious shed collectors, antler buyers paid more last year for antlers than ever before. Sit down while you read this. Elk antlers were going for $19.50 per pound. Ok, you say, how does that relate to the value of that antler. Consider this— the average weight of a single six-point antler from a mature bull is right at 10 pounds, give or take a pound. If you have the other antler, you have 20 pounds. Put a pencil to that figure. At $19.50 per pound you’re looking at right around $400 for one bull’s shed antlers. Not a bad piece of change for a hike in the woods. Now suppose you’ve stumbled into the mother of all shed areas and find several antlers. You might not make enough to buy a tricked-out bass boat but you might be able to purchase that nifty four-digit rifle you’ve been coveting. But that $19.50 is the very tops for the best quality antlers. Like furs, they’re graded by the buyer. If they’re fresh and nicely browned you should get top dollar. If you find a shed that’s been lying around in the sun for a year or more it will likely be bleached white. Those sheds will have a lesser value. Generally speaking, elk antlers are worth more than deer antlers, and moose antlers get top dollar — if you’re lucky enough to find any.

So why are antlers in such high demand? Here’s some history. Initially they were considered to be aphrodisiacs. That’s a big word that means the antlers are supposed to add virility and energy to those that consume them. The antlers are ground into a powder and added to a beverage. The powder commands very high prices. Now then, if buyers can get antlers that are in the velvet stage they’re believed to be much more potent and bring even higher prices. Of course, the velvet stage occurs when the antlers are growing. By the time hunting season rolls around the velvet is already gone, with the exception of some late summer hunts, especially bow seasons. Interestingly, elk are commonly raised in game farms where their antlers are removed during the velvet period.

Soon another market sprung up. Antlers were used to make lovely chandeliers, lamps, and all sorts of rustic items used in homes, even chairs and bed frames. But the demand for antlers changed for yet another use — doggie chews. Yes, you read that right. Antlers are cut up in pieces, placed in cute bags and boxes and sold in pet stores for a pretty penny.

Ok, so if you’re thinking about getting in on this bonanza, and I don’t blame you if you do — there are some things you need to know about hunting for antlers. If you live in a region of the country where there’s little public land you mind have a tough time finding a place to hunt for sheds. You might try state and federal wildlife management areas or refuges, but you’re apt to find plenty of competition from other shed hunters in states where there are few such public lands. There are several public land agencies in the US where you can hunt sheds with no permission necessary from landowners. The two major agencies are the US Forest Service within the US Dept. of Agriculture and the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) within the US Dept of Interior. The Forest Service administers around 190 million acres in the country with most of them in the west but there are several scattered around the US. The BLM administers about 250 million acres with almost all of it in the west. Though these are public lands where you can hunt for free, be aware that there may be restrictions on shed hunting in various states. For example, in Wyoming you cannot hunt sheds on any public lands from Jan 1 to April 31 on all land west of the Continental divide. There are no such restrictions on lands east of the divide. Another example. Montana offers excellent shed hunting on several WMA’s. In many you cannot hunt sheds after hunting season closes to May 14. Rules may vary with the area, so be sure to check regs. There are some areas in Montana that are so popular that hundreds of vehicles line up for the opener. When that time arrives there are vehicles tearing around hell bent for leather with anxious occupants looking intently for the prized antlers. There are reports of fistfights and even shootouts that were luckily averted because of the intense hunt. Why are there closures at all? Here’s what the Wyoming Game and Fish Department says: “the purpose of the seasonal closure is to minimize harassment or disturbance of big game animals on their winter and spring ranges when animals are most vulnerable to stress and displacement to less productive habitats.” In other words, shed collectors may actually harm animals by running them off the habitat they prefer to be on to areas which have less forage and cover. After surviving the winter, animals are weak. Pushing them around is not a good idea. In fact, some people will deliberately chase a herd of elk into a stand of timber, hoping that the bulls with strike their antlers on trees and branches, causing them to fall off. In my opinion this is unethical and uncalled for.

Before attempting to search an area for sheds you should have an idea where deer were in the winter when they dropped their antlers. For example, in the Maine woods deer often spend the winter in cedar swamps, especially if it’s a tough winter with deep snow and extreme cold. That’s where the sheds should be. This behavior holds true wherever there is some sort of migration, whether you’re considering deer, elk or moose.

In the west, mule deer and elk are champion migrators in many areas, often traveling a hundred miles or more to reach winter range after they’ve exited the high country where they spent spring, summer and early fall. That being the case, you’ll want to focus your efforts in lower elevations. Some elk herds seldom descend to the very lowest regions but will spend the winter in foothills where they feed on windblown ridges where the snow is blown away, exposing the grass which is preferred by the big animals.

Generally speaking, bull moose shed their antlers earliest – typically in December. Mule deer and whitetails in the west shed theirs by late January. Elk lose their antlers the latest, usually in March and early April. Often the largest animals lose their antlers first. A mature bull elk typically drops his antlers long before spike bulls. Because of the competition, shed hunters comb the woods thoroughly as soon as the snow allows access or the collecting season is open. By far the most successful hunters are those who ride horseback. Two reasons. One is that they can cover far more territory then a foot hunter, and the second is that a horseback rider is sitting high in the saddle and has much more visibility. Antlers lying on the ground are more easily spotted. Be aware that if you find one antler the matching set may be lying very close by. When a bull drops an antler his head is off balance. He may shake his head briskly or strike the antler on trees to get rid of the confounded thing. Nowadays dogs are trained to sniff out and retrieve antlers. This is done typically in whitetail country on farms and ranches. Fido becomes a valuable asset when he/she runs back to the owner with an antler!

The holy grail of all antler collecting is on the National Elk Refuge in Jackson Hole, Wyoming. There, upwards of 10,000 elk migrate to the refuge from the surrounding mountains and spend the winter there. They’re fed hay by the wildlife managers. Bulls drop their antlers on the refuge. Picture, if you will, thousands of antlers lying on the ground. What happens to them? Interestingly, the local Boy Scouts are allowed to help refuge employees gather the antlers and sell them. In the beginning the boys sold antlers and bought camping items for their troop. As the years passed and antler values increased, the money was donated to charities. Imagine a thief looking at those antlers from outside the refuge’s formidable fence, lusting for the money that could be made, and stealthily cutting a hole in the fence and retrieving some antlers. Sounds like an easy way to make money, right? Problem is, all those dudes get caught. I think the refuge must have one heck of a surveillance system! What happens to those antlers? The scouts and wildlife managers pick them up and store them in a locked facility until the second Saturday of May when they’re auctioned off to the public in Jackson’s town square. It’s a gala event, drawing folks from around the country as well as countries overseas. Shed antler hunting is just that- hunting, like hunting for wild asparagus or mushrooms. It’s a big thrill to find one, not just because you know you can make some money, but because that antler represents part of an animal that lives in the wild and may be around for years to come. Collecting is also a wonderful family activity. More and more Americans are discovering it every year.