When it comes to accuracy in archery and hunting, crossbows have earned a strong reputation. These versatile weapons are known for their precision, which stems from several key factors. Crossbows are designed with a fixed stock and a mechanical system, inherently contributing to their accuracy. This stability and consistent design make them a reliable choice for both beginners and experienced archers. However, it’s important to note that crossbow accuracy can vary depending on various factors, including the quality of the crossbow itself, the skill level of the shooter, and the type of bolts used. Many crossbow models also come equipped with optics such as scopes to further enhance accuracy and increase the shooter’s chances of hitting the target with precision.

Are Crossbows More Accurate Than Compound Bows?

The comparison between crossbows and compound bows in terms of accuracy brings to light some interesting nuances. Crossbows are often regarded as more user-friendly, particularly for beginners, thanks to their fixed stock and straightforward operation. This inherent stability and simplicity make it easier for newcomers to achieve accuracy in their shots.

In contrast, compound bows, characterized by their pulley systems, offer their own advantages in terms of accuracy. However, they may require a higher level of skill to consistently maintain accuracy due to the added complexity of the bow’s mechanics. The choice between crossbows and compound bows often boils down to personal preference, shooting style, and the individual shooter’s comfort level with each type of weapon.

Is A Crossbow Accurate At 100 Yards?

One common question that arises when discussing crossbow accuracy is whether these weapons can deliver accurate shots at long distances, such as 100 yards. The answer is yes, crossbows are indeed capable of achieving accurate shots at such extended ranges. However, several critical factors come into play to achieve this level of accuracy. First and foremost is the shooter’s level of experience and proficiency with the crossbow. A skilled shooter is better equipped to make precise shots at longer distances. Additionally, the quality of the crossbow itself plays a significant role. High-quality crossbows are designed with accuracy in mind, often featuring advanced technology and craftsmanship. Finally, the type of optics or scopes used on the crossbow can greatly enhance accuracy at extended ranges. While 100-yard shots are technically possible with a crossbow, most hunters prefer to take shots within 50 yards or less to ensure better accuracy and more ethical hunting.

What Is The Average Distance To Sight In A Crossbow?

Determining the ideal sighting distance for a crossbow is a crucial step in maximizing accuracy. The average distance to sight in a crossbow can vary based on individual preferences and the intended use of the weapon. However, a common sighting distance range typically falls between 20 to 40 yards. Sighting in a crossbow within this range offers a balanced compromise between accuracy at various distances. Some crossbow hunters may choose to sight in at longer distances if they frequently take shots at extended ranges. Ultimately, the sighting distance should align with the shooter’s skill level and the typical hunting conditions they encounter.

How Close Should You Be To Your Target When Taking A Shot With A Crossbow?

Determining the appropriate shooting distance with a crossbow depends on a variety of factors, including the shooter’s experience and the equipment being used. For beginners or those new to crossbow shooting, shots within the range of 20 to 40 yards are often recommended. This distance range maximizes accuracy and minimizes the risk of wounding rather than cleanly harvesting game. More experienced shooters, especially those equipped with high-end crossbows and advanced optics, may consider taking shots at targets up to 60 yards away. However, it’s essential to remember that ethical hunting practices prioritize clean and humane shots, so shooters should only take shots they are confident they can make accurately.

Conclusion

In summary, crossbows are esteemed for their precision in both archery and hunting, offering a compelling alternative to compound bows, each with its distinct advantages. While crossbows can achieve impressive accuracy at distances of up to 100 yards, the sweet spot for sighting typically ranges between 20 to 40 yards, influenced by individual preferences and hunting scenarios. It’s essential to note that a crossbow’s accuracy hinges not only on the weapon itself but also on the shooter’s expertise and the quality of accessories, such as scopes. Ultimately, mastering the art of accurate shooting with a crossbow demands dedicated practice, valuable experience, and an in-depth understanding of the weapon’s capabilities.

The Garmin Alpha 10 device allows you to closely track up to 20 dogs’ movement in the field at a range of up to 9 miles. I put a prerelease model to the test with one German Shorthaired Pointer.

Dog-tracking collars are nothing new. Garmin has a fleet of advanced dog tracking and training systems available. Embraced by hunters who run dogs over vast expanses yet need the ability to monitor each dog’s behavior, these GPS tracking devices are powerful tools in the field.

Today, Garmin added a new tool to the box with the Alpha 10. And while the Alpha 10 might be the newest, it isn’t the biggest hammer in the box.

Instead, the Alpha 10 gives hunters (and anyone else who may want to leverage the power of real-time dog tracking) a versatile, light, effective tracker with trimmed-back features at an attractive price ($400 for the handheld; $650-700 for the handheld plus a collar).

No, that’s still not cheap. But compared with models with more robust onboard GPS mapping, it saves hundreds of dollars. So, I put one to the test way off the grid in the Colorado mountains.

In short: The Alpha 10 performs most of the functions of higher-cost GPS trackers at a lower price. The easy-to-use, accurate tool is a great option for hunters who tend to use phone apps for navigation. Finally, the training collar works well for hunters who have trained their dogs on e-collars.

Garmin Alpha 10 Review

I took the Alpha 10 into some big mountains to scout for the upcoming elk season. As it was still a month away, my wife and I took our GSP along to see if we could wrangle up some grouse for practice.

The Alpha 10 unit was pretty easy to set up initially. The instructions outlined everything from charging to pairing and basic use, and most of this was intuitive enough to do just from inspecting the product.

I paired the Alpha 10 with the TT15 Mini training collar. It allows you to communicate with the dog through tone, vibration, and electric stimulation. Thankfully, my dog is already trained to understand these, and it made for a smooth transition.

In my first use, I had the collar figured out in about 10 minutes out of the car. It took a few minutes to understand the menu system and user interface. But once I’d found and scrolled around all the screens, the product was second nature.

As my pup wove a pattern through the forest and meadows, I could follow her range and direction from the device. It displays an arrow pointing to the dog, and a distance. This makes it very easy to know your dog’s exact location.

Garmin says you can do this with up to 20 dogs at once. I haven’t tried!

In a quick first use, the Alpha 10 seems like a solid system. It allowed me to monitor my dog. And it tells me when she points, sits, lays down, or trees (more applicable to hounds than GSPs). My dog never ranged more than 200 yards during my use, but the device seemed accurate.

The only thing I disliked about the collar and handheld is that it doesn’t come with a hard case to organize the parts. For a product that costs double that of non-GPS dog-training collars from Dogtra, I’d love to see a nice case to keep your investment safe.

Alpha 10 Dog Tracker: Other Features

I got a good first look at the product. But due to its preproduction status, I couldn’t test all the features.

For instance, the Alpha 10 will pair with phones. This allows you to use the Garmin Explore app to track your hunts and even monitor dogs or other buddies who have Garmin products — all from your smartphone.

Here’s the brand’s pitch about these features, which I have not tested.

Mobile Solution

Hunters can pair the Alpha 10 with the Garmin Explore smart device app for enhanced mapping solutions. When paired, users can stow the Alpha 10 handheld in their pack and use their compatible smartphone or tablet to view their dogs’ location and track in real-time.

Garmin Explore provides added relevant information, such as hunt replay to relive your favorite moments of the hunt, robust off-grid navigation, customizable tracking lines, and saved hunt collections for easy access when you need it.

Companion Tracking

Alpha 10 users can pair their unit to a companion’s compatible Garmin dog-tracking device, such as Alpha 200i, to view their companion and companion’s dog location. Once paired, the Alpha 10 operator can make real-time decisions based on at-a-glance information, instead of waiting for verbal communication from the dog’s handler.

The two-way connectivity allows the dog handler and Alpha 10 users to view each other’s location for enhanced awareness when not in visual contact. Additionally, compatible devices can share predefined messages between units for rapid communication.

Ecosystem Compatibility

Individuals can pair the Alpha 10 with optional Garmin devices, including a compatible Garmin smartwatch, such as Instinct, fēnix, or tactix, using the built-in dog-tracking app.

For in-vehicle tracking, the Alpha 10 is also compatible with the Garmin DriveTrack system.

Also, UTV/ATV enthusiasts can pair the Alpha 10 to the Montana 700 or Tread series for additional dog-tracking capabilities.

Visit Garmin’s website to learn more or buy now.

March is here, and some turkey seasons have already opened. With that, it is time to look into the best states for hunting turkeys this season. Though recent years have seen a decline in overall turkey populations across the U.S., states are adjusting their regulations to help level these fluctuating numbers to ensure that the wild turkey—and these hunting opportunities—will be around for generations to come.

If your home state made the list, then you’re in luck, grab a tag and get in the field. If you are living in a state where turkey hunting isn’t very accessible, maybe it’s time to fill up the gas tank and hit the road. These states made the list after considering current populations estimates, season length, bag limits and opportunity for the traveling hunter. Here are the seven best states to hunt turkeys this spring.

California

Coming in at number one is California. Though it might be known as one of the most extreme states for attacking our hunting heritage, California can be a great state to chase turkeys. The population there is a true conservation success story. Just ten years ago the population was down around 250,000. But now, with an estimated population nearing 400,000 birds, California is a gold mine. Season runs from March 25th until the end of April and each hunter is allotted a bag limit of three gobblers per season. With three of the four subspecies needed to complete the Grand Slam and decent public-land access, the Golden State could easily be considered the top sleeper state for turkeys.

Season Dates: General Season – Mar 25 – Apr 30; Archery Only – May 1 – 14

Tag Cost: $75.60/resident; $210.34/non-resident

California Department of Fish and Wildlife

Mississippi

If you don’t want to head all the way to the West Coast, try the great state of Mississippi. This allows you to kick off your season down South with the earliest opener of the year on this list. With a turkey population of just over a quarter million birds, the ‘Sip season starts on March 15th and runs through the beginning of May. With ample amounts of public land throughout the entire state, there’s no shortage of hunting opportunity. Although, the Mississippi Delta is a region worth homing in on when planning your trip. Mississippi has a generous bag limit of three gobblers with beards six inches or longer and hunters took more than 22,000 birds last season. It’s easy to see why Mississippi ranks so high and it’s a great option to chase a swamp bird this spring.

Season Dates: Mar 15 – May 1

Tag Cost: $27.29/resident; $212.50/ 7-day non-resident

Mississippi Department of Wildlife, Fisheries, & Parks

Alabama

Alabama is one of the states that has seen a slight decline in overall turkey numbers in recent years, but still boasts a population of 365,000 birds. With the highest bag limit of any state on this list, you can take one gobbler per day, not to exceed four total for the spring and fall seasons. Zone 1 opens on March 25th but doesn’t allow decoy use until April 4th; Zone 2 opens April 1st with decoys legal to use on April 11th. Alabama has an abundance of public land for hunters to try their luck on, but just as with most southern states, hunting pressure could be high. But it’d be hard pressed to not have Bama in the top three.

Season Dates: Zone 1 & 3: Mar 25 – May 8; Zone 2: Apr 1 – May 8

Tag Cost: $30.25/resident; $216.20/ 10-day non-resident

Alabama Department of Conservation and Natural Resources

Tennessee

Coming in at the fourth spot is Tennessee. With a liberal bag limit and lengthy season, I’d definitely volunteer to go there this season. Tennessee has a healthy population of more than 250,000 birds, a good amount of public land from the hills to the hollers and a season spanning six weeks. If you haven’t stood on a ridge in the dawning of a new day and heard the echoes of gobbles ringing out in multiple directions, you’re flat missing out. Make sure to put Tennessee on your list and try your wits against one of these eastern toms.

Season Dates: Apr 15 – May 28

Tag Cost: $66/resident; $214/ 7-day non-resident

Tennessee Wildlife Resources Agency

Texas

The old adage of everything is bigger in Texas rings true in regard to turkey hunting this state. With the largest population in the U.S.— over half a million birds—there’s no doubt Texas could be the best place to take a true Rio Grande. Though there are limited public-land opportunities, Texas has numerous management areas that allow access for hunters. This state has multiple season dates to consider depending on where you’ll be hunting as well as varying bag limits, so be sure to read the regulations thoroughly before planning your trip. But with the incredible population and low pressure, it’s easy to see why this state ranks number five as a turkey hunter’s paradise.

Season Dates: Eastern: Apr. 22 – May 14; Rio Grande North Zone: Apr. 1 – May 14; Rio Grande South Zone: Mar. 18 – Apr. 30

Tag Cost: $25/resident; $133/non-resident

Texas Parks and Wildlife Department

Maine

Maine might surprise you as the number six spot on our list due to its small size, but it has a relatively high number of turkeys. This little state in the northeastern part of our country can offer great turkey hunting. It’s also one of the only states that gives you the opportunity to hunt birds all the way into June. There is plenty of publicly accessible land, and it’s one of those states where a door knock, and a handshake, might just get you access to prime ground. With a bag limit of two bearded birds per season, and season dates that allow you to stretch every second out of spring, Maine must be on your list. Don’t overlook the northeast corner of the U.S. for turkey opportunities.

Season Dates: May 1 – June 3

Tag Cost: $46/resident; $115/non-resident

Maine Department of Inland Fisheries and Wildlife

South Dakota

One of the most coveted birds of the Grand Slam is the Merriam’s, and so many turkey hunters dream of notching a tag on one of these birds. That’s why South Dakota must be on this list. With over 2.3 million acres of public land and three quarters of that located around the Black Hills region, those of you looking to fill a tag on a Merriam’s just might be in luck. Though overall numbers have seen a slight downward trend, there is still a dense population along river corridors and a well-established population covering most of this state. Add in a season that runs almost two months, buckle up because it can get a bit western chasing these overly vocal birds.

Season Dates: Single-season Prairie units – Apr 8 – May 31; Black Hills – Apr 22 – May 31

Tag Cost: $25/resident; $100/non-resident

South Dakota Game, Fish and Parks

Maybe you’re like me and love traveling to different states to test your skills against different birds, or maybe you’re chasing that elusive U.S. Super Slam of a bird in each of the 49 states that have an established season. Regardless of your motivation, these seven states are the best places to spend your time chasing gobbles this year. Get out there and enjoy it this spring, we only get so many.

With a .177 air rifle, there is a lot you can do including target shooting and hunting. Talking of hunting, what can you hunt with a .177 air rifle?

As a whole, a .177 air rifle can take on the small-sized game, pests, and birds. So, ethically, you can kill rats, pigeons, squirrels, rabbits, and co. In some special cases, a powerful .177 would even take down slightly larger animals like groundhogs.

While a .177 air rifle is popularly used for backyard plinking and target practice, they are certainly a good choice for hunting down small game. However, as a shooter, you need to be within the correct range and using more imposing pellets, aim accurately at the target.

Doing otherwise means you could mishit and end up only injuring the animal. Let’s look into this topic further.

What Can You Hunt with a .177 Air Rifle?

There are plenty of animals a .177 air rifle can down. However, they will only be small-sized although you can still kill larger animals with higher-end, powerful .177 air rifles.

The animals you can hunt with a .177 air rifle include most rodents like mice and squirrels, rabbits, both small and large birds, mongoose, chicken, among many other small game and pests.

Generally, .177 air rifles do not produce a lot of muzzle energy but you get enough to take on the mentioned animals. You can definitely kill game using very little power as long as you make the most out of the shot by preparing well.

Another thing you gain by shooting a .177 is top velocity. There are not many air rifles that shoot over 1000 fps more than this caliber. With top velocity like this, accuracy, which is a key quality of the best hunting air rifle is never going to be a problem.

Most .177 airguns have a minimum of 12 foot-pounds of muzzle energy and the maximum range you will engage a target with such an air rifle and get results is about 35 yards. Yet, there are certain .177 air rifles that can produce as much as 30 foot-pounds past 50 yards.

If you are looking for an efficient and effective air rifle in the .177 category, you can consider the Benjamin Trail NP XL air rifle, (View on Amazon) a gas piston break barrel that offers plenty of power in excess of 25 foot-pounds of muzzle energy and great accuracy.

Alternatively, you can work with the Gamo Swarm Maxxim air rifle (View on Amazon) that offers a 10x magazine for non-stop shooting. Swarm Maxxim offers consistent power and great durability.

What is the Effective Range of a .177 Air Rifle?

When you are hunting or doing another activity such as target practice, it’s important to understand the air rifle’s effective range. This helps you to estimate how far your air rifle can go to get you reasonable results.

One pertinent question you can ask yourself about a .177 is what is the effective range of the pellet gun? Generally, with a .177 air rifle, you can shoot accurately at your target out at 60-80 yards.

The reason why the effective range of most .177 air rifles is such high is because of the faster velocities most of them come with. Take an example of 1000 fps. If you fire a pellet at this velocity, its trajectory goes flatter and this means more accuracy at longer distances.

Many .177 caliber air rifles offer velocities in the excess of 1000 fps. Look at this Gamo Whisper Fusion Mach 1 air rifle (View on Amazon) that can send pellets downrange at 1420 fps and offers many other indispensable features of a proper air hunting air rifle.

Whether you are hunting for rodents or birds, the Whisper Fusion has the perfect effective range to get the job done always.

Is a .22 Air Rifle More Powerful than a .177?

There is no doubt that two of the most renowned calibers of air rifles feature .22 and .177. Oftentimes, many people think that they are the same in functionality and power but that’s not true.

You would probably ask: is a .22 air rifle more powerful than a .177? There is no straightforward answer to this but basically, a .22 air rifle would be more powerful than a .177 air rifle. On average, a .22 caliber air rifle is capable of producing over 18 foot-pounds of muzzle energy while a .177 about 15 foot-pounds.

If you consider the kind of pellets each shoot. The .177 pellets are lighter than the .22 pellets. What this means is that the heavier .22 pellets are hard-hitting more than the lighter .177 pellets.

It’s true that a .22 air rifle will shoot pellets at a slower speed. But that’s probably due to the heavy nature of their pellets which is exactly the reason why the guns generate the extra energy compared to their .177 counterparts.

So, if you were looking for a perfect choice in an ideal hunting scene, you will definitely consider a .22 any time.

That, however, doesn’t mean that .177 air rifles are not powerful enough. In fact, there are certain .177 air rifle models on the market that offer serious power than .22 air rifles.

Can You Kill a Deer with a .177 Air Rifle?

Sometimes if you are just getting some foothold in the airgunning world, you think your air rifle can tackle almost every target on the way. Many newbie hunters keep asking the question; can you kill a deer with a .177 air rifle?

By and large, on paper, you cannot kill a deer with a standard .177 air rifle. This is because the pellets used are extremely lightweight and literally below 10 grains in weight. This means they generate less power on impact.

A deer is not the ordinary small targets like birds and rodents you’d easily knock down with that amount of energy. Deer is large and it takes a lot of power. So, you’d probably want to use a higher caliber like a .30 or above.

Nevertheless, there is a slim chance of hitting and knocking it down with a .177 air rifle. You need to be extremely close to the animal and make sure you hit it in the head or lung area.

Even with that, the size of the pellet used in form a .177 will not impound the deer on the spot. It may run off with the injury; which is unethical and irresponsible on your side as a shooter.

If using less powerful air rifles on large animals is going to be a personal trend in hunting, sooner than later the authorities will be on your shoulders. So, as much as you want to try out new things, it’s just cruel to engage a deer with a .177.

Can a 177 Air Rifle Kill a Fox?

A fox is a fairly large animal. And if you have only a .177 air rifle in your possession, you’d likely ask whether a 177 air rifle would kill a fox or not.

In general, there are very few .177 air rifles that can humanely kill a fox under normal circumstances. Not unless you close into about 10-15 meters and aim the pellet right through the fox’s head.

Of course, it has to be a more powerful .177 air rifle with a minimum of over 30 foot-pounds of muzzle energy. If you are not sure about your air rifle, you simply get a higher caliber and work with it rather than making the animal suffer due to a mishit.

One thing you have to remember about foxes is their tough skin that takes an awful lot of energy for a pellet to penetrate.

What .177 Pellets Are Best for Hunting?

When you go out hunting for squirrels and rabbits or other small game, you definitely need proper hunting pellets. For the record, not all pellets you find on the market are meant for hunting.

The best .177 pellets for hunting weigh much higher. They are supposed to hit hard and leave some massive impact on the target.

Ordinarily, a 177 pellet is lightweight, weighing in at 7.5 to 10.5 grains on average. With this weight, it’s hard to knock down most animals and birds.

But, it’s possible to still get .177 pellets weighing in the region of 14.5 grains. These are practically heavier pellets and provide some serious knockdown power, which is what you need for any hunting activity.

The shape of the pellet is another big factor in its effectiveness. The best shapes for hunting include hollowpoint, wadcutters, and domed pellets.

You can consider the Crosman Premier Super Point .177 Cal pellets (View on Amazon) that come in a 500 ct tin.

Final Thoughts: What Can You Hunt with a .177 Air Rifle?

You can hunt a lot of small-sized animals and birds in the wild and in your backyard. These could include rodents like rats and squirrels and birds like pigeons and swallows.

Different .177 air rifles come with different power capabilities. This offers shooters a chance to even extend their list from just small game and pests only to some fairly larger targets as well.

Are you in need of tips on how to preserve a deer tail for your next project?

If you are looking to use it as a lure or any craft project, then our step by step guide will help you out. Discover this easy DIY guide to clean and preserve that precious deer tail. Beginning from the carcass and up to the slab, we’ll teach you everything you need to know.

Let’s get started!

How To Preserve A Deer Tail

Just a heads up – the tips on how to preserve a deer tail that you are about to read is focused more on the simple preservation of this material.

It does not involve tanning; instead, this is the step that you will start with before you tan the deer tail. By preserving the tail, you can get the fur perfectly set. Hence, you can prevent bugs from developing into the material.

Another reason why you would want to learn how to preserve a deer tail is to keep the material intact. Otherwise, it is most likely to get torn over time.

Are you all set to preserve that deer tail? Let’s get started with these tips:

1. Remove the tail.

Naturally you want to first remove the tail off the deer. Cut the tail off depending on the length that you prefer. Some folks snip it at the base of the deer’s buttocks but you can decide on how long you exactly want it to be.

For this step, you will need a pair of utility knife, pliers or razor. Be sure to get the bone out of the tail, or that hard portion. You can do this by slicing it right down the middle.

2. Start the cut.

Next step, you will now have to make your cut. With the tail no longer intact the bum of your deer, lay it flatly on a clean surface.

Keep the bottom portion up with the hairs separated. Then, cut precisely right along the entire length of the tail or over the bone.

You will want to make sure that the hair is parted while you cut to the top. This will help to prevent losing much of the fur or causing some damage to the tail’s overall appearance.

Once you have opened the tail, pick the bone out using your pliers. You need to be very careful with cutting the fat right from the bone’s base portion.

As you hold the hide down, gently pull the tail right off. In some cases, cutting the fat that sticks to the bone may be necessary. Do this as gently and as firmly as possible until the bone is completely out.

3. Clean the hide.

At this point, you are now ready to wash and clean the hide. You only need to use some dish soap diluted in warm water.

Fill up a basin with warm water and mild detergent. Next, submerge the tail carefully and rinse off blood or dirt that may be stuck in it.

Rub it gently with soap but be careful not to tear any piece. When you are done soaping it, you need to rinse it with lukewarm water until there is no more soap left on it.

4. Dry the tail thoroughly.

After you have cleaned the tail, it’s now time to dry it all off.

Lay it on a wax paper and grab your hair dryer to gently dry out the hair and skin. Be sure that it is completely dry.

You may also use some paper towels to further dry it. Sometimes, there’s some moisture left on the skin after using a hair dryer, so paper towels or some dry cloth would come in handy.

In case some fat remains intact, simply scrape this portion off with a serrated knife. But be very gentle and careful since you would not want to cut the skin.

6. Add borax to the tail.

You may be wondering why you need to use borax to the tail. Well, for the simple reason of protecting it from bacteria that might develop on the skin.

Since borax is antibacterial, it helps to apply it on the tail to fully preserve and protect it from damage.

With the tail laying flat and cut open, coat the inner portion with a thin layer of your borax. You may apply as much as necessary, which will coat the flesh that’s fully exposed.

But if you are preparing the deer tail for tanning, you may want to use non-iodized salt instead of borax. Apply a thick layer of non-iodized salt on the flesh until it is fully coated. Let it dry ad add a bit more salt as needed for this salt curing process.

An additional tip when preparing the material for tanning is by making sure all membrane and fat are removed. When you leave even the slightest hint of fat on the skin, this will give the tan an odd color while reducing pliability.

Let the tail coated with borax sit for a few days in a dry and cool place. You need to be certain that the skin is absolutely dry before you use it for your desired purpose.

Alternate Technique On How To Preserve A Deer Tail

Perhaps it doesn’t really matter as much without you if the tail is flexible or pliable. In this case, you may go for the dehydrator technique.

A food dehydrator is just what you need to really dry the material out. But at the same time, it will completely dry the flesh out, which may not be ideal for some people.

You can simply leave the tail in a food dehydrator for a few days. This will completely dry the material, yet you will no longer be able to reform it to the way you want without causing the hide to break.

What To Do With Preserved Deer Tail

Now that you have completed the process of preserving deer tail, you may be curious to find out what exactly you can do with it.

Well, if you are an angler, you can certainly use the deer tail on jigs. This is a fine material that is strong and durable, which is perfect for jigs to use on fishing.

But if you are not into angling, you can also use the hair of deer as a paintbrush. You will love the durability and steadiness of the tail and the brush works for your ceramic glaze.

And lastly, you can make small purses or dice bags for the tail. Just put the parts together and add a smooth lining or just leave it as is – leathery and all.

No matter what you decide to do with your preserved deer tail, it is sure to be a great project to work on with amazing results!

Final Thoughts

Preserving deer tail may initially seem to be a complex and intimidating process.

But by checking out our quick guide on how to preserve a deer tail, now you understand that it is actually quite simple and basic.

With only a few tools and some know-hows that we have just shared with you, the entire process should go as seamlessly as possible.

We hope this post has been helpful, and now, you are ready to start preserving deer tail for your next DIY project!

I posed the following, seemingly simple question to the members of my Upland Journal Forums, and to hardcore bird hunters, weekend warriors, dog trainers, upland guides, field trialers, breeders, and sporting lodge owners: What is your chosen ruffed grouse hunting dog breed, what is it that you most like about them, and why have you stuck with them?

The answers were anything but simple. The truth is there is no best single breed of dog for hunting ruffed grouse. This has become clear to me after four decades of hunting grouse over most of the flushing and pointing breeds.

Unless someone is irrevocably breed blind, most bird dog people will readily agree. I was pleasantly surprised at how gracious those who contributed to my research were when discussing hunting dogs, even dog breeds that were not the ones they chose to run. Dog guys like dogs.

One thing that is completely agreed upon is that good breeding and diligent training are essential, but those characteristics can only go so far in developing the dog as a grouse dog.

Serious grouse hunters believe that bird contacts are paramount to developing a grouse dog, particularly in breeds that point. The grouse themselves teach the dogs how to handle grouse. Dogs just have to see a load of ruffed grouse — hundreds of them — before graduating from a bird dog to a “legit grouse dog.” Some dogs never get to wear the cap and tassel, some become good, and very few become great.

Why is that the case? Because ruffed grouse are arguably the hardest game bird for any dog to handle, and without question one of the most challenging for the wing shooter. There are a tremendous number of variables and preferences and expectations that impact the choosing and settling on a breed for ruffed grouse hunting.

Not all of the variables have to do with grouse. Some are directly related to a particular dog owner’s personality, or where they reside, or the time they have to hunt, and the type of grouse cover they typically hunt.

Will the dog be hunting small micro covers, or huge expansive cutovers? Will it be trained for field trials as well as hunting? Will it stay in the house and sleep on the bed? Will it perform double duty as a waterfowl dog? Will it shed like the dickens? The list is endless.

For some it’s basically the breed dear old dad always had, or a breed a person read about, or hunted over, or in many instances just plain liked the looks of.

In this article I’ll concentrate on two popular flushing breeds and three pointing breeds, and why people prefer these dogs for hunting ruffed grouse. This is in no way a poor reflection on other breeds. Remember what I said: There is no best grouse dog breed.

ENGLISH COCKERS: Big Hunt In A Small Package

There is little doubt that Field Bred English Cocker Spaniels or FBECS’s have experienced an upsurge in popularity for upland bird hunting. These little bird-seeking missiles are not to be confused with American Cocker Spaniels, which are bred for looks and as pets. And FBECS’s are not just small field-bred English Springer Spaniels (the springer, by the way, is my personal breed of choice). Do not make the mistake of muttering such a thing in a room of spaniel enthusiasts. They may have been separated by size centuries ago, but have developed their own unique personalities, yet retained all the best characteristics.

This flushing dog weighs in as small as 20 pounds and upwards of 35 pounds for a large male, and come in a variety of colors. I spoke to the owner of a guiding operation in northern Maine, who runs both FBEC’s and English Pointers, and he described them as having the heart of a big dog and the cuddle of a lapdog.

He not only uses them for hunting ruffed grouse, but also as non-slip retrievers with his pointers, where they flush and retrieve ahead of a point. Another friend of mine owns a well known Orvis-endorsed hunting and fishing operation in Maine. His personal dogs, which he hunts and guides with, are FBEC’s. Most of his guides run pointing breeds. Pointing dogs are traditional for grouse so most clients request hunting over them. But according to him, at the end of the day when the bragging begins, the cockers do as well if not better in finding birds and providing shots on grouse.

Owners of FBECS’s gush over their little charges. They love the dogs’ temperaments, house manners, trainability, and their remarkably manageable size.

That’s all well and good but can they handle and produce ruffed grouse for the average bird hunter? You bet they can. The consensus from those I spoke with is they are the right dog to hunt in poor scenting conditions, such as hot and windy days — situations that can compromise other dogs. They burrow intro the thick of cover, work close, roust out grouse to the gun, and retrieve crisply to hand. They are just plain fun to be around, and they can sit on your lap and lick your face on the drive home. What more can a bird hunter ask of a grouse dog?

LABRADOR RETRIEVERS: A Model For Every Grouse Hunter

Labrador Retrievers remind me of the venerable 12-gauge shotgun. They can do it all. The Lab has really made its mark in the ruffed grouse woods, and those running them never feel under gunned.

Although there are breed lines of pointing Labs, I’m focusing on flushing retrievers. They are hard to beat when you include their perpetually positive attitude and enthusiasm. These workhorses come in variety of sizes, depending on the breeding — from huge, block-headed, otter-tailed, cattail busters to smaller, more agile, and athletic dogs — which are increasingly popular with grouse hunters. They are black, chocolate or yellow and despite some opinions, all can make great hunters. Their wonderful personalities have made them a choice as pets for non-hunters, so always seek out a hunting line of Labs if you want one to team up with you to hunt grouse.

If properly trained they simply produce bird after bird for the gun and, being the consummate retriever, are unmatched in finding cripples and bringing any bird to hand.

Lab owners are extremely loyal to their breed, like their dogs are to them. They point out the unparalleled trust and teamwork they experience while hunting with their Labs. A particularly successful grouse hunter from Michigan I spoke with, who champions the smaller, more agile 50-pound Labs for grouse, expressed that a well bred Labrador is smart, easy to train, and can bounce back from training mistakes. Known for their overall durability, they can hunt in all conditions and cover types. When these grouse hunters empty the birds from their vests at the end of a hunt, the reason for running their labs for ruffed grouse is plain to see.

ENGLISH SETTERS: Grace And Beauty In The Woods

There is no question the English Setter is the quintessential and traditional grouse hunting dog. The sheer volume of responses I received from ES lovers proved that point.

This breed has gotten a load of ink in most classic grouse hunting literature, and is well represented in sporting art, for good reason. For a pointing dog they are the whole package of beauty, elegance, temperament and — best of all — they work on ruffed grouse.

Setters generally come in two types: Ryman and Llewellyn. The Ryman being a larger, closer working, and more methodical birddog that foot hunters prefer. Llewellyn’s are a smaller, faster bird-finding machine that hardcore hunters and field trailers gravitate to.

Regardless of type, they all share a gentle nature and picture perfect looks, as well as a good nose. Some of my Setter friends and contacts readily admit they prefer a slightly slower-moving dog that they can see and enjoy as it weaves through a fall cover, with the tinkling of a bell only adding to the experience. They live for the feathery classic point, and shooting at a bird is an afterthought.

Others want a firecracker that sizzles through the woods, reaching way out in search of birds, with the distant staccato beep from a collar signaling a point. After a location is found on the GPS receiver, they head into the cover and like to be rewarded with an opportunity for a shot. This is a breed that can fit differing personalities.

I’ve heard more legends of English Setters being good or great grouse dogs than any other breed. That might be a product of their popularity, or it might be why they are so popular. It doesn’t matter: they are a proven breed for grouse hunting and look damn stylish doing it. I heard from a fair share of earnest grouse hunters who experimented with a lot of dog breeds until they found their nirvana with English Setters.

GERMAN SHORTHAIRED POINTER: Bulletproof And Versatile

I have many friends and acquaintances who run GSP’s. That should say something about their popularity and effectiveness on grouse, given we live smack dab in ruffed grouse country.

And I had the pleasure of hunting over a particularly good one. I was impressed by this dog’s no-nonsense, workmanlike hunting style. He knew how to handle and point the skittish, if not schizoid, ruffed grouse found in mid-Maine, without a lot of showing off or fanfare. I think this is true of most dogs of this versatile breed.

That dog is over the rainbow bridge but the owner is now feeding two more GSP’s. I asked him why he sticks with them. He made the analogy that GSP’s are the Toyota Tacoma of the grouse hunting breeds. They are tough, dependable, and rarely break down. GSP owners relish the strength and durability and easy maintenance of their dogs, along with their ability to chill out in the house, but turn it on in the woods. Being a short-haired breed, little if any time needs to be wasted combing out burrs on the tailgate, leaving more time to hit the next cover.

I received input from a gentleman who runs a popular birddog website who hunts his shorthairs in a multiple of states and Canadian provinces. He expressed how his dogs consistently hunt at a comfortable range for the foot hunter, are staunch on a pinned grouse, but naturally relocate until they crack into a solid point when they hit the scent cone. A plus is they are largely natural retrievers, so few birds are lost. Versatile is the operative word; when not pointing grouse they can take on part-time work in a boat or blind retrieving waterfowl, and are handsome to boot.

BRITTANYS: The Whole Package In A Compact Size

These medium-sized, hard-working pointing dogs are rumored to have originated as poachers’ dogs, and are termed by some as “meat dogs.”

There’s nothing derogatory about that as far as I’m concerned, since despite all the aesthetics prevalent in grouse hunting lore, ultimately we are trying to add protein to our game vest.

This breed was originally dubbed a spaniel but the “spaniel” was officially removed in 1982. You have two choices of field stock Britts: American or French Brittany. Generally the American Britt is larger, lankier, and a bigger runner by design. The French Britt is more compact and generally a tighter worker. But despite “spaniel” being dropped from their name, both types have the merry, exuberant and biddable personality of a spaniel, with the point and the retrieve built in.

Britt owners I spoke with were a pragmatic group who weren’t enamored with classic high-tailed points (which is a good thing since Britts tails are docked). Britt owners appreciated the work ethic, nose and tenacity of their dogs.

A very good friend of mine who passed away a few years back adored his Brittanys, and I’ve never seen a closer bond than he had with his dogs. I had the privilege of grouse hunting with him in the states and in Canada. He was a solitary fellow, and when we met back at the truck, there was always a gleam in his eye, a grouse or two in hand, and of course a Britt by his side. If I get a pointing dog to add to my arsenal, it would likely be a Brittany.

You can’t go wrong with any of the breeds covered here if the dog is well bred, trained to your needs and expectations, and you put the dog on a load of grouse. Finding your breed for hunting ruffed grouse is like finding a spouse. There are matches made in heaven, but also mismatches. The trick is to date and play the field until you fall in love, and know when to throw in the towel and try another breed that fits you best.

Ultimately, at the end of the hunt, the measure of a grouse dog could be as simple as whether you enjoyed hunting with it, not how high a pile of feathers you’ve built by the end of a season.

We reviewed and tested over 25 compasses and found that the Sunnto MC-2 is the best survival compass.

A compass needs to do a lot more than just point North to be considered a good compass for survival. With so many options out there called “survival compasses”, it is hard to know what to choose.

Our buying guide explains what to look for in a survival compass and how the Sunnto MC-2 is the perfect choice – not only as the best survival compass but also the best for any other outdoor activity when getting lost is a possibility.

I have over 40 years of experience using compasses and purchased my first Silva baseplate compass when I was 10 years old in Boy Scouts. My family has a combined 40 years of military experience using compasses, with one of them being a navigator. My grandfather was a pipeline surveyor, and I have his 1940s model compass.

So, we have used a few compasses over the years.

I based this review on our experience and also the experience of other experts that teach wilderness navigation classes. Our goal is to present the best survival compass available that can help you get to safety (or away from harm) in an emergency.

If you need a compass to get from A to B while hiking, bushcraft camping, or just in case you face a survival situation, keep reading.

Quick Comparison of our Favorite Survival Compasses

Best Survival Compass

Suunto MC-2 – The Best Survival Compass

• Type: Orienteering Mirror Sighting Compass
• Size: 2.5” x 4” x .7”
• Weight: 2.6 ounces
• Declination Adjustment: Yes
• Glow in the Dark Indicators: Luminescent Marks

The Suunto MC-2 Compass is our top pick for the best compass for survival.

This compass has all of the features I need to navigate a survival situation. It is a sighting compass that I have used to keep me traveling in a straight line over long distances. I can simply sight an object in the distance at the correct bearing and hike to that object. After reaching that object, repeat the process.

The mirror is great to have in case I need to signal for help or for personal first aid.

I like the fact that this compass is also a baseplate compass for use with topographical maps. I have the USGS version of this compass, and my maps are USGS scale maps. This allows me to measure distances easily on a map without having to do any math. Even if you don’t have USGS maps, the inch ruler is universal for other maps.

The built-in declination adjustment is excellent as well. I can simply read the adjustment on the map and then turn the adjustment screw on the back of the compass. I like that a small adjustment tool is included and attached to the lanyard, so I never have to look for a screwdriver.

The baseplate also has a magnifying lens, which I have used to see small details on my maps and to start fires.

A clinometer and a slope ruler are also built into this compass. While I personally don’t usually need these features, I have them.

I also like that the bezel has all 8 directions printed on it (N, NE, E, SE, S, SW, W, NW), as well as degrees. This makes it easy to use since you don’t have to remember the bearing for E or W in a stressful situation.

When ordering one, there may be some confusion about which configuration to get. I personally recommend the Northern Hemisphere version with USGS UTM scales (which is linked above.)

This compass has everything that I need in a compass. Many other survivalists and outdoorsmen also agree. It is affordable, so there is no reason not to recommend it.

Recommended for:

The Sunnto MC-2 Compass is the best compass for any outdoor activity. It is especially suited as the best compass for survival situations. If you only plan to buy one compass, get this one.

Suunto MCB Mini Compass – Best Backup Survival Compass

• Type: Mini Mirror Sighting Compass
• Size: 2.2” x 2.68” x 0.7”
• Weight: 1.27 ounces
• Declination Adjustment: No
• Glow in the Dark Indicators: No

The Suunto MCB Mini Compass is a compact mirror sighting compass that is a great backup compass to keep in your pack, vehicle, or boat. Sunnto calls it their “Safety Compass”, so it was designed to be a backup to your primary compass.

This compass is similar to what I call an orienteering compass, except it does not have a clear baseplate.

It does not have declination adjustment or a magnification lens either, so mapping capabilities with this compass are somewhat limited.

It has a straight edge on the sides with mm and 1/20 scales, so you can use it with a map if necessary.

The lanyard has a built-in whistle, which, combined with the mirror that can be used for signaling, makes this a great multiuse survival tool.

The Lid folds down to make an excellent compact package that will fit almost anywhere. While not the best primary compass, it does make a great backup. If you ever find yourself in a situation where you may not believe your primary compass, a backup will help you verify your doubts. Peace of mind is cheap.

Recommended for:

The Suunto MCB Mini Compass is for someone looking for a backup survival compass for their pack, vehicle, or boat. If you do not venture out very far, it makes a good backup for a GPS unit as well.

Cammenga US Military Compass – Most Durable Survival Compass

• Type: Lensatic Compass
• Size: 2.25″ x 3″ x 1.1″ (closed)
• Weight: 16 ounces
• Declination Adjustment: No
• Glow in the Dark Indicators: Tritium

The Cammenga US Military Compass is the same as the government issue M-1950 compass for the military.

The biggest benefit of this compass is it is very durable and battle-tested. If you are concerned about damaging your compass, this is the most durable compass available.

Our team has seen this compass dropped over a cliff and ran over during military operations. Afterward, it still functioned fine. Simply put, we have seen it survive tough times.

I feel that using this compass is not as straightforward as a mirror compass. However, using this compass is second nature if you are military-trained.

It does not have a mirror, so this is a disadvantage from a survival perspective. While it does have a magnifying lens for sighting, it is not strong enough to start a fire.

The tritium inserts are great and will stay illuminated for years. This makes this compass the best on our list for navigating at night.

This compass can be used with maps. However, using it is a little different from traditional baseplate map compasses. Again, anyone that is military-trained will not have an issue. It does not have a declination adjustment, so you will have to consider it in your bearing calculations.

Recommended for:

The Cammenga US Military Compass is for anyone who has had military training and is comfortable using this compass. It is also very durable, so if you are hard on your equipment, this is one to consider. For people that are not military trained or understand compasses very well, this is not the best choice for a survival compass.

Silva Ranger 2.0 Compass

• Type: Orienteering Mirror Sighting Compass
• Size: Approx 4” x 2.5” x 1”
• Weight: 4.8 Ounces
• Declination Adjustment: Yes
• Glow in the Dark Indicators: Luminescent Marks

The Silva Ranger 2.0 Compass is a mirror-sighting compass with all the features I look for.

It has a sighting mirror to sight objects in the distance for traveling in a straight line. It has a clear baseplate for use with maps and a magnifying lens to start fires if needed.

I like the fact that it has multiple map scales printed on it. In my experience, you come across different maps with various scales, so a compass with multiple scales is great.

The lanyard also has map scales marked on it. Since the lanyard is flexible, you can lay it on a map and bend it around curves for more accurate distance measurement. This is great if you want to know the distance you will travel on a curvy hiking trail.

There are a few things that I do not like about this compass. The bezel only has degrees and no directions like the Suunto MC-2. During a stressful situation, it could be hard to remember the bearing for East, for example.

I also don’t care for the shape of the baseplate. It is curved on the ends and not straight, which makes it more challenging to line up on a map.

The lid of this compass seems just too large to me. It is noticeably larger than the Suunto. Also, the compass does not have a tool for adjusting the declination.

I have owned Silva compasses for over 40 years, so I am a fan. Unfortunately, they moved manufacturing to China in 2005, which is another negative for me.

Recommended for:

The Silva Ranger 2.0 Compass is for anyone looking for a survival compass, and our top pick is unavailable. If you are an avid hiker, the lanyard is convenient when mapping out a hike.

Brunton TruArc 15 Compass

• Type: Orienteering Mirror Sighting Compass
• Size: 4” x 2.5” x 0.6”
• Weight: 3.2 ounces
• Declination Adjustment: Yes
• Glow in the Dark Indicators: No

The Brunton TruArc 15 Compass is made in the USA and checks all of our boxes in what is needed in a compass for survival.

It has a sighting mirror, magnifying lens, and a baseplate with USGS scales. I like the three scales on the baseplate. It has a 1:24,000 scale for miles, meters, and feet. This makes it easy to measure any distance you want on a map. The only downside is you must have a USGS map to use it without doing any math.

This compass has a global needle as a standard. This makes it nice if you want to travel near the equator or to the southern hemisphere with this compass. It also has a built-in clinometer and toolless declinometer adjustment. While the toolless design sounds good, many people have issues adjusting it.

There are a few negatives with this compass. The bezel is set up in reverse from most other compasses and has a magnifying window over the bearing markings. If you practice and exclusively use this compass, it may not be a problem. But, with most other compasses being the opposite, it is very confusing to learn from someone with a different compass.

Sighting with the compass is also not intuitive. It is easier to see the bearing marks at the top of the bezel through the mirror. When you read the bearing this way, it is 180 degrees off and does not align with the “shed” markings on the baseplate. This just makes it confusing to me.

Recommended for:

The Brunton TruArc 15 Compass is for someone looking for a made-in-the-USA compass. It fits all of our criteria for a survival compass but is not as easy to use as others.

Sunnto MB-6 Compass

• Type: Mirror Sighting Compass
• Size: 2.6” x 1.85” x 0.9”
• Weight: 1.94 ounces
• Declination Adjustment: Yes
• Glow in the Dark Indicators: Luminescent marks

The Sunnto MB-6 Compass is a unique compass that folds into a metal matchbox-style box. This makes it very durable and compact.

This compass has a mirror that folds down underneath it when you open it. It has gun sight-type sights on the top that you can use to sight targets in the distance. It is a little different than most mirror compasses but works similarly.

The main advantage of this compass is how compact it is. If folds up into a nice box that will fit into your pocket.

The main disadvantage is this compass is it can’t be used with maps. You will need a separate baseplate compass if you need to do any map work. However, it does have declination adjustment, so this will help when translating bearings from your mapping compass.

While I can’t consider this compass the best for most people, it should be considered for someone who doesn’t like the standard orienteering compass and doesn’t plan to use maps.

Recommended for:

The Sunnto MB-6 Compass is for someone who wants a rugged, compact, and durable survival compass and does not plan to use a map. This is a great backup compass for a hiker or a boater.

Silva Mini Compass

• Type: Mirror Sighting Compass
• Size: 1.6” x 1.86” x 0.8”
• Weight: 1.6 ounces
• Declination Adjustment: No
• Glow in the Dark Indicators: Luminescent marks

The Silva Mini Compass is a small mirror sighting compass that is very compact. It is the smallest compass on our list. It is also the cheapest.

This compass should only be considered a backup compass. It is compact and lightweight, so it is a great choice for a backpacker or hiker when weight is a concern.

It does have a mirror, which is unusual for such a small compass. It is also affordable, so keeping a backup won’t blow your budget.

It is made from thinner plastic, so it is not the most durable compass.

You could use this compass with a map if you had to, but since it is so small it is not easy. It does have an inch scale on one side.

This compass made it to my list because it has a mirror and is very small. You can stick this in a small survival kit; it will be good enough to help you travel in a straight line when you have no other option.

Recommended for:

The Silva Mini Compass is for someone looking for a small, compact mirror compass for their survival kit. This should not be considered your main compass for survival situations but rather an emergency backup.

Best Compass for Survival – Buying Guide

To select the best survival compass, it is essential to understand a few basics about compasses. Don’t just buy any cheap compass advertised for “survival.”

There are a few different types of compasses. Some are good in a survival situation, and some are not. Below we will discuss the differences, and then we will put it all together so you can decide which is the best for you.

Price

While, usually, you can find an excellent lower-priced option for most survival gear, this is not the case for a compass. As they say, “You get what you pay for.”

Stay away from anything that is under $25. These are cheap inferior copies. Most cheap compasses are inaccurate and are more difficult to use.

If you just want something to play with, cheap is fine, but a survival compass should not be something you just play with. Since your life depends on it, it needs to work correctly.

Brand

A reputable company should make your survival compass. I found many cheap knockoffs with strange brand names that are made in China. While they look like the more expensive compasses, they are different.

Cheap compasses are made from inferior materials that are simply not reliable. The needles can be inconsistent between readings, causing you to travel in the wrong direction. While a small error is negligible, it really adds up over a long distance.

Stay with these reputable brands:

• Suunto has been making compasses in Finland for over 80 years. Their specialty is compasses, and they are continually updating their processes to make their products more accurate and durable. They include a lifetime warranty and make some of the best compasses available.
• Cammenga is a US-based company that has been making the military’s standard issue M-1950 lensatic compass since 1992. They must meet all the military standards in their processes so their products are top-notch.
• Silva began in Sweden and made their first compass in 1928. They made compasses in Sweden until 2005, when they moved production to China. Since then, they have been bought and sold a few times. Since 2018 they have re-established themselves as a Swedish company. However, their manufacturing facilities are still in China. Their quality has improved in the past few years.
• Brunton is a US-based company that was founded in 1895. They began by making a pocket transit that was used by surveyors that included a compass and clinometer. It was often just called a “Brunton.” In 1996, they were acquired by Silva but were sold in 2006 and again in 2009 to another Swedish company. Manufacturing is still done today at its Riverton, Wyoming facility.

Different Types of Compasses

There are a few different types of compasses, each with a specific purpose. This is where it gets confusing when buying a compass.

First, we will review each type of compass.

Button

A button compass is what the name suggests. It is a small compass, not much bigger than a button. They are usually around 1” in diameter and are circular with no other baseplate or cover.

A button compass gives you an overall direction with no absolute accuracy. If you want to move North, it will give you a general Northerly direction.

These compasses cannot be used with a map, and they cannot be used to sight a bearing accurately.

While one of these is better than nothing, there are ways to determine the overall direction of the environment. The location of the sun, the moon, and moss on trees and rocks can tell you which way North is more reliably than a cheap button compass. Don’t waste your money.

Baseplate

A baseplate compass is a circular compass mounted to a thin rectangular base plate. The baseplate is usually a clear plastic.

Baseplate compasses are designed to be used with maps to determine bearings and distances. They will have a ruler or scale printed on the side to measure distance on a map. They will also have a rotating bezel that is used to measure a heading between points on a map.

While these compasses will show you a bearing, they do not have any type of sighting mechanism. These can be used to navigate somewhat when there are prominent landmarks to follow. However, if there are no prominent landmarks or you do not know where you are, they will not be accurate enough to travel in a straight line.

Lensatic

A Lensatic compass is a circular compass inside a case with a lid and a sighting device. An excellent example of a Lensatic compass is the standard military M-1950 compass.

These are used to sight objects or landmarks in the distance so that an accurate bearing can be determined or followed. These compasses are the best for traveling in a specific direction and allow you to move in a straight line.

While they are not specifically made to use with maps, some have a flat base that can be used with a map when opened.

Transit Compass

While not as popular today with GPS and modern electronics, a transit compass is used by surveyors and map makers. These compasses are usually 3 inches or so in diameter, have a metal case and lid, and are very accurate and expensive.

While you can’t find many of these sold new today, they are often sold as antiques. I have one from the 1930s that was my grandfather’s. He used it to survey while installing pipelines.

Orienteering or Mirror Sighting Compass

The term orienteering compass is often used a lot for baseplate compasses. This is likely a marketing tactic since it sounds “cooler.”

An orienteering compass or mirror sighting compass looks similar to a baseplate compass. However, it has a top-hinged cover that has a mirror. It also has a gun sight-type feature that allows you to sight objects in the distance.

An orienteering compass can be used the same as a baseplate compass for determining direction and distance on a map. It can also be used like a Lensatic compass to sight objects in the distance accurately.

This type of compass is usually the best overall since it combines the baseplate and Lensatic compass.

Parts of a Compass

Understanding the parts of a compass is critical before purchasing one. Below, we will step through each feature while referencing this diagram.

Needles

The needle is the heart of the compass. Compass needles will have two sides, one painted red or another color and the other painted black. The painted side of the needle points to “magnetic North.”

Some compasses have two types of needles available. The most common in the US is called ” Northern Hemisphere” or just “NH.” The other type is “Global.” If there is no indication, they are usually NH needles.

Since the Earth is curved, the magnetic field is different depending on where you are on the planet. If you are in the northern hemisphere, a compass needle is attracted to the poles at a different angle than in the southern hemisphere.

Since the needle floats around its center inside a capsule on the compass, you have to hold the compass level so it is free to rotate.

So, a compass with a needle tuned for the Northern Hemisphere will need to be held at an angle to rotate in the Southern Hemisphere freely. This makes it challenging to use on a flat surface.

In the US, both NH needles and Global needles will work. Global needles have more room for the needle to tilt inside the compass.

While some say that Global needles are better since you can walk and still use the compass, I am not sure who is trying to hike in the woods without watching where they go. This is the same as texting and driving. You cannot accurately use a compass, not trip over your feet, and track landmarks simultaneously.

Global needle compasses are more expensive than NH compasses, so again, this is just a marketing ploy to get you to spend more money on something you don’t need.

Unless you plan to travel to the Southern Hemisphere (that’s a long hike), an NH compass will work fine for you.

Rotating Bezel

A rotating bezel is needed to measure and follow bearings. Make sure your compass bezel has markings in degrees from 0 to 360. Some military compasses are marked in Mils, which is not helpful unless you were trained in the military.

Also, make sure your compass bezel is at least marked with “N” to indicate North. While North is basically 0 degrees, having this on the bezel is better so you don’t get confused in a stressful situation. The best compasses have N, S, E, and W marked for clarity.

Declination Adjustment

Declination is a complicated subject that could be its own article.

There are basically three directions for North depending on your reference point. There is true North, magnetic North, and grid North. Maps are a flat representation of a curved surface.

The declination adjustment is printed on the map to make up for the differences between the North direction on a map and the magnetic North that your compass reads. This adjustment will be different depending on where you are on the earth.

A compass with declination adjustment makes it easy to adjust for this difference and measure bearings accurately on the map. If your compass does not have a declination adjustment, you can still use it, but you must add or subtract the declination from every measurement you take.

Having built-in declination adjustment on your compass is the best and makes calculating bearings easier.

Orienting Lines

The best baseplate and orienteering compasses will have orienting lines printed on the baseplate so you can line them up accurately on the map. Aligning the grid lines on a map is an essential first step to measuring bearings.

They will also have what is often called a “shed” or “doghouse” printed behind the needle. This area visually indicates where the compass arrow should be when you are taking or measuring a bearing.

It is often said to “put red in the shed” or “put the dog in the doghouse” as a way to remember how to align the compass needle.

Needle Chamber

Most newer compasses (except the Military compasses) have a liquid-filled needle chamber. The liquid in the chamber helps to dampen the amount of movement the needle makes. It makes it smoother and quicker to get an accurate reading.

Cheaper compasses will not have a liquid-filled chamber, and the needle will constantly move around as you hold it. This makes it hard to get an accurate bearing since the needle constantly moves.

Over time, bubbles can form in the chamber (like in my 40-year-old Silva). This does not affect the compass’s accuracy but makes it harder to use since you must wait for the needle to stabilize. If the bubble is over 25% of the chamber, it is time to get a new compass. My Silva has been officially retired.

Clinometer

Some compasses will have a built-in Clinometer. This is used to measure the slopes of hills. Surveyors and map makers used this tool to do their work historically. Today with modern GPS devices, they are no longer used much.

There is no need for a Clinometer on your survival compass, either.

Scales

The scale printed on your baseplate or orienteering compass can be confusing. This is used for measuring the distance on a map.

Most compasses come with at least inches or centimeters printed on the baseplate. At a minimum, this, along with the scale printed on the map, can always be used to measure distance on a map. You could use a piece of string if you had to.

Most topographical maps today come with a standard scale. USGS maps are always 1:24,000 scale. Some compasses, like our top pick, come with a variety of scale options available.

If you know the type of map you have, try to match your compass with your map. For example, if you have a USGS map, get a USGS compass. This will just make it easier to take distance measurements. Otherwise, just use the typical inch or centimeter ruler that comes on all baseplate compasses.

Glow in the Dark Marks

A compass with luminescent or Tritium markings glows in the dark, making using your compass at night much easier. Tritium is the best and will usually last for at least ten years. Luminescent paint has to be “charged” by sunlight or a flashlight and will glow for a few hours afterward. Some glow better than others.

Either way, some glow-in-the-dark markings are nice but not essential.

Sighting Lens or Mirror

A Lensatic compass will have a sighting lens, while an Orienteering compass will have a mirror.

When using a Lensatic compass, you hold it close to your face. As you focus on an object in the distance through the sighting window, you can look down without moving and see the needle and the markings on the bezel through the lens. Since everyone’s eyesight is different, the position of the lens may have to be adjusted. You may also need to remove your glasses depending on your eyesight.

When using an orienteering compass, you hold it extended away from your face, much like a handgun. As you focus on a distant object through the sighting window, you can adjust the mirror to see the needle and bezel.

Essentially, the mirror and lens are accomplishing the same thing in different ways. In my experience, the mirror works best and is easier to use.

What makes a good Compass for Survival?

To find the best compass for survival, you must first determine what the compass will be used for.

The main items to focus on are:

• Assist with traveling in a straight line over a long distance.
• Be able to find a position and navigate with a map.
• Have multiple other uses like signaling and fire starting.

Lateral Drift

First and foremost, a survival compass must assist you with traveling in a straight line for a long distance. Everyone experiences what is called “lateral drift” while they are walking without a clear target in the distance.

When you are in the woods, and all the trees look the same, you tend to walk toward your dominant side without realizing it. This is why you hear of lost people walking in one big circle.

To walk in a straight line, we need a compass that allows us to sight targets in the distance to walk towards. This can only be accomplished with a Lensatic or orienteering compass.

Map Navigation

A survival compass should be able to be used with a map. Finding your way to safety or around hazardous locations is one of the main objectives in a survival situation.

Even while bushcraft camping, navigation is an essential bushcraft skill that could be used to find a body of water to fish or a location to hunt. It would then help you find your way back to camp.

To navigate with a map, a baseplate or orienteering compass is needed. Some Lensatic compasses can also be used with a map.

Multi-Use

For any piece of survival gear, it should have multiple uses to be considered. We are limited in how much gear we can carry in a survival kit, bug-out bag, or get-home bag, so each item must be valuable.

An Orienteering compass has a mirror. Mirrors can be a signaling device to others in the air or on the ground. They can also be used for hygiene or to see areas on your body that you can’t usually see for first aid.

A baseplate compass and an orienteering compass also have a magnifying lens. A magnifying lens can be used to start a fire with the sun. This massive advantage over the other compasses should not be ignored. It is very easy to practice starting a fire with a magnifying lens before you need it. While you should have a fire starting kit, this is a resource that never runs out except on a cloudy day.

Best Survival Compass

Considering these factors, the best compass for survival is an orienteering compass like our top pick, the Suunto MC2. It has all the criteria needed in a survival compass.

Most people that are using a compass are doing it because they are traveling in a remote area. An argument could be made that all compasses are survival compasses. Before buying a cheap compass to take hiking or camping, this should be considered. If you get lost, was saving a few dollars worth it?

A good survival compass is essential for any survival kit or as a backup to a GPS unit or survival watch. Learning how to use a compass to navigate is similarly just as important. There are many books, classes, and courses available on navigation. I recommend purchasing a map and practicing with your compass before venturing out on a long hike.

The best way to avoid a survival situation is to never get in one to start with.

Video Guide to the Best Survival Compass

Dave Canterbury discusses the best compass for bushcraft and survival.

What is the Best Compass for You?

I see many recommending cheap baseplate compasses as the best compass for survival. After understanding the criteria above, would you consider one? It is not practical to try and constantly watch a compass while walking through the woods, trying to get to safety. This will only get you more lost or, even worse, injured.

The best compass for survival is the Sunnto MC2, without question. Its features, quality, and ease of use are ahead of competitors. In my experience, it is also the best compass for hiking, bushcraft, camping, hunting, and any other outdoor activity. There is no reason to own a different compass.

Now that you have the best compass, look at our other survival guides and gear reviews. As you build out your survival kit, we have you covered no matter the outdoor activity.

Aside from airsoft guns being a lot of fun, there are airsoft fields in almost every state. It cannot be easy to know where to begin if you are new to the game. You’ll need your weapon, but what else will you need? The following blog post will provide you with some basic information that will help you make your first airsoft gun purchase!

Consider What You Need

Thinking about what you need is easier said than done because you won’t know what you need from a gun until you’ve played a few games, but there are a few things to think about.

You do not have to follow the preferences of your pals because everyone has a different style and preference. Consider what you are most comfortable with when firing, what makes airsoft fun for you, and how you prefer to play. Having a buddy with the same configuration as you, on the other hand, makes running out of ammo mid-game much simpler. They can lend you a mag instead of a bag of BBs, which you’ll have to reload in the middle of a firefight!

Are You Looking For A Gas-Powered Or Spring-Powered Airsoft Gun?

A spring airsoft gun is a fantastic choice for folks who want to save money or learn airsoft basics before investing in more expensive guns. They can be incredibly powerful and accurate, but the user must manually cock back the tension release with their hands after each shot fired.

Because airsoft guns take longer to reload than gas-powered guns, you’ll need time between rounds if you wish to utilize them in combat settings against other players. Because they don’t have recoil like gas-powered airsoft guns, you’ll have more accuracy and power when shooting from a long distance with these airsoft weapons.

Gas-powered airsoft rifles shoot quicker because an air propellant is compressed behind a BB with air pressure, which is why they are popular among players who want a more realistic feel and don’t mind paying more than spring airsoft weapons.

Consider The Price

Most purchases in life are influenced by price, and airsoft weapons are no exception. Ideally, you don’t want to spend a lot of money on one of the top weapons if you’re not familiar with its benefits (unless you have a lot of additional money to invest and maybe waste).

It should not be too pricey nor too cheap:

But, at the same time, don’t go too low! There are exceptions, but an inexpensive gun may work and sound excellent in the shop. However, once out on the range, it may not be able to strike the side of a barn. Generally, the lower the price, the more likely you will have to upgrade or modify your gun to be usable; this does not make for a good beginner rifle! Airsoft shotguns can be a good first purchase if priced between $100 and $150 or $200 and up. The disadvantage of this weapon is that ammo can be expensive, so keep additional shotgun shells on hand.

Consider the weight of a weapon when choosing one.

Knowing the weight of an airsoft gun before purchasing it may be crucial for certain people. While not as hefty as actual weapons, airsoft firearms have weight and can alter how you play with them. Some airsoft enthusiasts will find that carrying heavier guns is more authentic. They love the sense of realism that comes with airsofting; yet, others may find themselves at a disadvantage if their opponents use lighter airsoft weapons.

Players who use lower-powered air pistols often prefer lighter weights because the recoil on these guns isn’t as powerful as air rifles or high-powered AKs. If you want to play for speed, a lightweight airsoft gun is better, but a heavier airsoft gun is better if you want to play for realism.

Airsoft Sniper Rifle

Looking for the best sniper rifles can come in a variety of levels and price ranges. In terms of pricing, you can never really say that the most expensive is the greatest. There are excellent sniper guns available at reasonable prices. While there is also your level of skill, a superb sniper rifle would work well for both novices and experienced shooters.

Taking a Quick Look at Technical Elements

There are various technical features of airsoft guns that you should know before making your first purchase.

• FPS vs. MPS

FPS and MPS are measures of the speed with which the BB is ejected from the barrel.

FPS stands for Feet Per Second, and MPS is for Meters Per Second. In general, a model with a greater FPS is considered to have more power and will almost certainly leave some significant bruising on a hit target! Many people believe that higher FPS and MPS mean longer range, but the quality of its Hop Up determines a gun’s ability for long-range shooting.

• Hop-Up

Hop-up is where you get your range and accuracy. It refers to the technology that imparts a backspin on the BB, allowing for significantly more range than would otherwise be possible. Every rifle that we consider a decent enough beginner rifle will include an adjustable hop-up.

• Full and Semi-Automatic

by pulling the trigger, you can fire one shot from a semi-automatic gun. When you squeeze the trigger on a full-auto (Fully Automatic) airsoft gun, it fires a sequence of shots until you release the trigger.

• ROF

ROF stands for Rate of Fire and refers to the number of BBs that may be fired in a certain amount of time when firing in fully automatic mode. In principle, the more BBs you fire, the more likely you will strike your target. However, it will necessitate more consistent ammo replenishment! Make sure to keep your bursts short and controlled. As a rule of thumb, one-second top trigger pulls make for a friendlier game! Unless you’re a support gunner, which is a completely different situation!

Conclusion

There are numerous variables to consider before purchasing when it comes to airsoft weapons. What is your budget? Do you want to fire with a spring-powered or gas-powered gun? It is also important to consider the airsoft gun’s weight and frequency of use. Hopefully, this blog post has given you an overview of airsoft guns so that when it comes time to buy one, you will know exactly which type best meets your needs!

It is a fair assumption that most people who shoot rarely consider shot string. Yes, they may think of the pattern and the speed at which it travels. But the pattern to most mind’s eyes is a plate-shaped circle, with hopefully not too many holes in it.

This is precisely what you see when you test a gun on a pattern plate. You get a pretty good idea of how your gun and cartridge combination are performing. But not entirely. For as the pellets fly through the air, they not only do so in the shape of an ever-widening plate but in a long string which extends in flight. In approximate terms it can be around 5 feet in length at 20 yards extending to 8 feet at 30 yards.

The variation is as a result of deformation of pellets as they pass along the barrel. Those at the bottom of the load in the cartridge will suffer most, as a consequence of which their flight will not be true, nor will they travel at quite the same speed as the front end of the load which will consist of still fairly perfectly spherical pellets.

In effect you are sending a column of pellets in front of the intended target. I’m not normally in favour of getting too bogged down in the technicalities of ballistics, I am more interested in getting the string to the right spot. But I do think that it is useful to understand the dynamics of shot string, as it can give you more confidence in placing your shot ahead of a crossing bird. Ideally you will connect with the centre of the string, where there will be a good concentration of pellets. But you can give a little more forward allowance than you might think is necessary, and the shot string will look after you. Not to mention a good spread of pellets across a 30” circle. Basically it’s a wonder we ever miss!

Of course we are talking about a shot charge travelling at 1100fps, so it’s not as simple as it sounds, but nevertheless an understanding of the dynamics of the content of your cartridge can only help.

The quality of the cartridge can also make a difference. It is worth trying a few different makes to find which one is the most compatible with your gun. Performance can vary. Generally, as with most things in life, the more expensive cartridges are better, but it may well be that the ‘own brand’ cheapies from your local farm shop will do the trick. Once you have found what suits you then stick with it.

Then provided your gun fits you properly, your confidence with your chosen cartridge will blossom. You will not be filled with doubt about your combination – you can just get on with your shooting. The odd misses will be inevitable – forget them. It’s the next shot that counts. Have confidence.

It’s behind you!

Many of you will enjoy some partridge shooting in the coming weeks. Footwork is crucial for all shooting, but for low ground partridge never more so.

We all know the shot. The guns are lined out about 30-40 yards back from a tall hedgerow. The birds appear as if from nowhere. Ideally you take your shot in front, but miss with your first barrel, then attempt to take a bird as it retreats into the distance behind you. Miss! And you end up practically tied up in knots.

Just why are those birds behind you so difficult? I am often asked this question and the answer is quite simple. Footwork.

The speed at which the birds approach induces a degree of panic, but in reality there is a lot more time than you think. We all know that when you shoot a bird in front, for a right hander your left leading foot will be pointing in the direction of where you intend to take the shot. The same applies to any shot. So you have to move your body to get into position. You simply need to be alert to what is happening.

Let’s go back to the beginning. You arrive at your peg for the drive. From this moment you need to be focused. Forget about chatting to the guy at the next peg, or fiddling with your gunslip, sorting cartridges or talking to your dog. Get ready, look around you for any possible picker-ups or other hazards behind you. Get loaded and be fully tuned for what’s happening. Otherwise if an early covey bursts over the hedgerow, you may miss a chance of a good right & left, that might well be your only opportunity of the day. If you are chatting with your neighbouring Gun, this is also an insult to your host. So be ready.

Keep a sharp lookout from where you expect the first birds to appear. Your shot in front will be practically, move, mount shoot. There is no conscious effort to give lead. Your gun speed will do what’s needed providing you have the gun properly mounted and are looking at the bird’s beak.

But should you miss, don’t simply follow it. Turn, with your gun down but muzzles pointing safely upwards. Let your feet take the body round so that your leading leg is pointing towards the bird, your eyes fixed on it, then mount onto it and shoot.

If however there is gale blowing, and the bird is quartering between you and the next Gun, this really can be a tricky shot. It might well be 45 yards out before you are able to pull the trigger. On a grouse moor this can be exaggerated. I was out in a strong wind in September, and a quartering bird behind the line was at least 60 yards distant by the time you could safely pick it up. It was therefore paramount to shoot in front.

For most of these shots your body and feet need to be turned, so that you can pick up the bird with your gun muzzle at least 30 degrees past the line of the Guns.

If you are still standing with your body facing frontwards, and then turn and twist without moving your feet then you will be lucky indeed to connect with anything.

An easy analogy can be made with cricketers and tennis players. In order to make a good shot they get their feet and body into position before striking the ball. The really good players seem to have so much more time.

The same applies to shooting. Keep your cool and give yourself time. If you feel the shot must be taken behind, adjust your feet and turn round on your peg so that the point of taking the shot the body is completely comfortable.

Of course the same applies to high crossing pheasants, but the whole procedure is exaggerated with hedgerow partridges.