Most backyards in North America have only one type of squirrel that you see regularly.

In northern and eastern regions, the two most common types are red and gray squirrels.

But if you’ve ever seen these two squirrels side-by-side then you know they’re really quite different animals! Not just in terms of size & appearance, but also in their behavior, habitat & even their diet.

So today let’s explore 8 key differences between red and gray squirrels in order to gain deeper insight about our backyard tree dwelling friends.

What’s the difference between red & gray squirrels?

To start off, take a look at this side-by-side comparison of a red squirrel on the left, and a gray squirrel on the right.

Let’s break down some things to notice about these two squirrels pictured above:

1. Color

On the surface, perhaps the most obvious difference between red and gray squirrels is their color.

Generally, red squirrels will all have this same reddish brown color shown above with very little variation. Red squirrels are a species of arboreal (tree dwelling) rodent that all have fur looking more or less identical to the photo above.

However it’s important to realize that gray squirrels are NOT always gray.

One of the big differences in gray squirrels from red squirrels is that they come in many different colors including gray, black & even shades of blond.

It’s important to realize these color variations are all part of the same species of squirrel, and can even be brothers and sisters in the same family.

This means color can be a good way to identify squirrels, but only if you remember that gray squirrel communities are multi-colored.

The basic idea is:

• Red squirrels are always red.
• Any other color is a gray squirrel (or possibly fox squirrel in overlapping ranges).

In most cases these rules will work, however, New York city is known to have a population of cinnamon colored gray squirrels, which could be confused with red squirrels if you don’t know the other differences.

So while color can be useful, it’s actually not the best way to identify red and gray squirrels in all cases.

So what’s the best way to identify them?

2. Size

In general, the best way to identify gray squirrels from red squirrels is by their size difference.

Gray squirrels are significantly larger than red squirrels. According to most sources, gray squirrels weigh in at a range of 400-600 grams, which is almost twice the size of the 250-330 gram red squirrels.

This size difference is very obvious just by looking at them, and is typically the fastest & most accurate way to identify squirrels in actual practice.

If you’re used to watching gray squirrels and then you suddenly see a red squirrel, their small size will really stand out to you.

Side note: If you live further south, it’s also important to know whether your area has fox squirrels which are even bigger than gray squirrels, and sometimes even interbreed with their populations.

3. Ear Tufts

Another interesting clue to help with squirrel identification is that red squirrels grow little tufts of hair on their ears during winter.

Ear tufts are a more subtle characteristic than the overall size & color, but it still gives us a bit more insight into their character.

In actual practice, you really don’t need to look at squirrels this closely to tell them apart but it’s a funny quirk and something to look for during the cold season.

4. Social Behavior: Communal vs Solitary Squirrels

A much deeper level of knowledge about squirrels comes when you go beyond identification and begin to study their behavior.

Here the differences become even more obvious because red and gray squirrels have vastly different approaches to how they interact socially with other squirrels.

So how do red & gray squirrels differ in terms of their behavior?

Gray Squirrels Are Communal Squirrels

Gray squirrels are generally considered to be much more community oriented than red squirrels.

It’s extremely common to see groups of gray squirrels all hanging out peacefully together in the same area. They share territories, food and sometimes even sleep together.

In many ways, this is really the biggest of all the differences between red and gray squirrels because red squirrels are not communally oriented at all.

Red Squirrels Are Territorial/Solitary Squirrels

Red squirrels in sharp contrast to gray squirrels are some of the most aggressively territorial animals on the planet.

They actively defend their territories, food caches & nest sites with a wide variety of loud vocalizations and visual displays of aggression.

This aggression begins quite early after the baby squirrels are born, and continues for the rest of their life. In this sense, red and gray squirrels really are polar opposites.

5. Habitat

Aside from some occasional overlap at the edges of different habitat types, gray squirrels and red squirrels also tend to occupy very different niches in their habitat.

Gray squirrels thrive in urban & suburban environments and typically prefer forests dominated by deciduous trees (like the oak & beech forests we discussed in a different article on mast trees).

Red squirrels tend to become dominant in more remote forested habitats that include a lot of coniferous trees such as spruce and fir.

For this reason, many people who live in cities have never actually seen a red squirrel, and might not even realize they exist in your area.

The quintessential “squirrel on a power line” is a gray squirrel in almost every case. In all my years living close to red squirrels I’ve only ever seen one use the power lines to move around.

6. Diet

The result (or perhaps the cause of their habitat differences) is that despite being very closely related species in the squirrel family, red and gray squirrels eat almost completely different diets.

Gray squirrels eat a lot of large fleshy deciduous nuts like acorns & walnuts, while red squirrels tend to horde the cones of coniferous trees like spruce and feast on the tiny seeds.

Both squirrels also take advantage opportunistically of hunting insects (and even eating bird eggs!) however the exact species they hunt will vary depend on the ecology of their chosen forest type.

I covered what squirrels eat in much more detail in another article.

7. Calls & Vocalizations

Red and gray squirrels each make their own distinct set of calls & vocalizations which can be used for identification and behavior interpretation.

Grey squirrels who are upset will make a raspy bark when predators are nearby. In some cases it sounds a lot like a small dog barking.

In the following video clip you’ll hear some gray squirrel barking and related alarm calls from nearby robins and other smaller birds.

The red squirrel sound is a combination of high pitched “TIP” sounds mixed with lower range “CHUCK” calls that are used in varying combinations for different situations ranging from predator alarms to territorial situations:

Because red squirrels are so territorial, overall they tend to make a lot more noise than gray squirrels.

Red squirrels also make a loud trilling scream and are generally make a lot more noise than gray squirrels who are less easily offended. You can hear this rattling “scream” call at the 20 second mark in the following clip:

I’ve written a lot more on this topic, so if you want to explore the nuances of squirrel language, go read up about why squirrels chatter and scream so much.

8. Interactions Between Red & Gray Squirrels

Another way to gain insight about these two common messengers of the forest is to look at how they interact where territories overlap.

If you ever find yourself lucky enough to live in a place that has both red squirrels and gray squirrels living in close proximity, this is an amazing opportunity to learn and study their differences.

This is where a lot of interesting questions come up to truly define the boundaries of what it means to be a red squirrel or gray squirrel including their breeding, cooperation and competition.

Can Red Squirrels And Gray Squirrels Interbreed?

Because these are two different species, red squirrels cannot interbreed with gray squirrels.

Even gray squirrels who have a reddish color to their fur are born from two gray squirrel parents. When you see these color variations, remember that size is still the key identification characteristic as explained above in point #2.

Why Are Some Squirrels Red/Black/Gray/Blond?

So if they can’t interbreed, then why are all these different color squirrels living together?

Why can a single family of squirrels include both gray, black and possibly even other colors of squirrels?

Well, this is very similar to genetic variation in red foxes which sometimes makes them black.

It’s the same as how human children can have different colored eyes or hair than their parents. It has to do with the genetic combinations and recessive genes.

As a ridiculous example, it’s a bit similar to why red hair in humans cannot be caused by having an orangutan for a parent… because humans cannot mate with orangutans.

Do Gray Squirrels And Red Squirrels Get Along?

In most cases, red and gray squirrels have such distinct niches in the forest that their territories and trails almost never overlap.

For this reason, even if you do see red and gray squirrels nearby in the same area, they typically co-exist quite peacefully.

It’s not so much that they get along, as much as they don’t have any good reason to get in each other’s way.

Do Red And Gray Squirrels Compete?

In general – red and gray squirrels do not directly compete because they occupy different habitat niches.

Red squirrels are more dominant in coniferous forests, while gray squirrels are more dominant in deciduous forests and cities.

In mixed forests, their territories can occasionally overlap, however, even in these situations they tend to use different trails and different food sources so it’s rare for this to cause problems.

Why Do Red Squirrels Chase Gray Squirrels?

In cases where their activity does overlap, typically red squirrels will be the more aggressive and likely to chase the gray squirrels.

Considering that they’re so much smaller, this can be a funny surprise to see the red squirrels acting aggressively towards gray squirrels. But it really just comes down to the fact that red squirrels are so much more territorial.

If you spend a lot of time in mixed or coniferous forests with high red squirrel populations then you know what I’m talking about. You’ve probably been yelled at by a squirrel or two in your days!

When it comes down to it, gray squirrels and red squirrels really aren’t competing over food, nesting sites or mates, so there’s no reason for them to be territorial other than the fact that red squirrels are very aggressive towards pretty much everything.

Go Look For These Differences Yourself!

So now all you have to do is go watch your local squirrels for yourself.

Making your own observations is really what brings the magic of nature to life.

• How many of these squirrel differences can you observe in your own backyard?
• Are you seeing signs of territorial or communal squirrel behavior?
• What else do you notice about your local gray and red squirrels?

Let me know what you discover out there, and happy squirrel watching!

By Yamil Sued

The 10mm Auto is an undeniably powerful round, born in the mid-1980s from disappointment with the perceived inadequate performance of the 9mm. The cartridge was designed from the ground up to have immense stopping power, and it would prove itself to be a capable performer in both self-defense and hunting applications.

Testing the Perception

But how powerful is it, exactly? We all hear about how terrific the 10mm is, but what if we perform a 10mm gel test to see what kind of penetration and expansion we can expect?

I decided to do just that, taking a Springfield Armory Range Officer Elite Operator 10mm 1911 and running three different full power 10mm loads through it and into ballistic gelatin. Check out my video above to see how it all did on the range.

For this 10mm ammo comparison, I selected three loads, all with bullets weighing 200 grains. These loads covered both high-performance 10mm self defense ammo as well as basic range ammunition. I tested Federal Personal Defense HST, Speer Gold Dot Personal Protection Gold Dot Hollowpoint, and CCI Blazer FMJ range ammunition. Both of the full power personal protection loads used proven hollowpoint bullet designs while the range load used a 10mm FMJ projectile.

10mm Ballistics Performance

I set up a 32″-deep batch of ballistic gelatin and set about running all three loads through the RO Elite Operator 10mm. I was very impressed with the performance of all three loads and found that the 10mm does really push out some power.

Hollow Point vs. FMJ in Ballistics Gel

When testing 10mm penetration, both the Speer and Federal drove to roughly 18″ deep in the gelatin (within 1″ of each other), and expanded very nicely. These are both very powerful and effective rounds.

With the Blazer load, the FMJ punched clean through all 32″ of the gelatin, and impacted heavily on the safety berm behind it.

Excessive penetration is generally not preferred for defensive ammunition. While FMJ loads are great for paper targets, they simply do not expand in an attacker and will generally overpenetrate as this 10mm gel test shows.

I also chronographed all three 200-gr. loads to see how they performed. The Federal HST came in at an average of 1,130 fps, the Speer Gold Dot at 1,100 fps, and the Blazer ammo at 1,030 fps.

Conclusion

My test was intended to show 10mm ammunition performance and penetration, both full power self defense ammo and FMJ target ammunition.

I think that the results speak for themselves — the 10mm is an undeniably powerful round, and one that clearly will excel in both a hunting and self-defense role.

Editor’s Note: Please be sure to check out the new The Armory Life forum, where you can comment about our daily articles, as well as just talk guns and gear. Click the “Go To Forum Thread” link below to jump in!

Join the Discussion

Go to forum thread

Featured in this video

If you’re hanging a deer in warm weather, you’ll want to do it as soon as possible. The ideal temperature for hanging a deer is between 40 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit. If the temperature is any warmer than that, you risk the meat spoiling. The length of time you’ll need to hang the deer will depend on how warm it is. You’ll generally want to hang the deer for at least 24 hours, but in very warm weather, you may need to hang it for 48 hours or more.

If you’re processing your deer in warm weather, you’ll need extra care to prevent the meat from spoiling. Here are some guidelines for how long to hang your deer in warm weather:

If the temperature is above 60 degrees Fahrenheit, you should only hang the deer for one to two days. You can hang the deer for three to four days if the temperature is between 40 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit.

And if the temperature is below 40 degrees Fahrenheit, you can hang the deer for up to seven days. Remember, it’s always better to err on the side of caution when hanging your deer. If you’re not sure how long to hang it, it’s better to hang it for a shorter period of time rather than risk the meat spoiling.

Ask a Deer Processor: How long should you hang your deer?

How long can a deer hang in 60-degree weather

Assuming you are referring to the temperature of the air and not the ground, deer can hang in 60-degree weather for an indefinite amount of time.

The reason being, is that as long as the internal organs remain cool, the deer will not begin to rot. The rigor mortis, in which the muscles stiffen after death, will also be delayed in cooler temperatures. So, if you are hoping to age your deer meat, 60 degrees is the ideal temperature.

Can you let a deer hang in warm weather?

It’s not recommended to let a deer hang in warm weather. The warmer the temperature, the quicker the deer will spoil. If temperatures are above freezing, the deer should be refrigerated or frozen as soon as possible. If it’s not possible to do either of those things, then you can let the deer hang for a day or two, but any longer than that is not recommended.

How long will a deer last in 50 degree weather?

If you’re asking how long a deer will survive in 50 degree weather, the answer is that it depends on the deer. In general, deer can withstand temperatures as low as -20 degrees Fahrenheit, but they will start to feel uncomfortable when the temperature goes above 50 degrees Fahrenheit. If the weather is particularly hot or humid, the deer will start to suffer from heat stress, which can lead to death.

How long can you let a deer hang?

When it comes to deer, there are a few different schools of thought on how long is too long to let a deer hang. Some people believe that as long as the deer is properly taken care of, there is no set time limit. Others believe that waiting too long to process a deer can result in the meat becoming tough and unpalatable. So, how long can you let a deer hang? Ideally, deer should be processed as soon as possible after being harvested. This means that the deer should be gutted, skinned, and deboned as soon as possible after being killed. If you are unable to process the deer right away, it is important to take steps to ensure that the meat stays cool and does not spoil. If you are unable to process the deer immediately, it is best to hang the deer in a cool, shaded area. The temperature should be below 40 degrees Fahrenheit to prevent the growth of bacteria. If the temperature is above 90 degrees Fahrenheit, the deer should be processed as soon as possible. It is also important to keep the deer away from predators, insects, and other animals. If the deer is hanging in an area where there are other animals present, it is important to check on the deer regularly to make sure that the meat has not been contaminated. In general, it is best to process a deer within 24 hours of harvesting it.

Is it OK to hang a deer in 60 degree weather?

The quick answer is yes, it is perfectly fine to hang a deer in 60 degree weather. In fact, this is actually an ideal temperature for hanging and aging venison. If the temperature is too cold, the meat can freeze and if it is too warm, the meat can start to spoil. When hanging a deer, the animal should be gutted as soon as possible after being killed. The intestines can release bacteria into the meat which can cause it to spoil. The deer should then be hung by the hind legs from a beam or other sturdy structure. If the temperature is too cold, the meat can freeze and if it is too warm, the meat can start to spoil. The ideal temperature for hanging and aging venison is between 32 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit. However, 60 degrees is still within the acceptable range. If the temperature is consistently above 60 degrees, you may want to consider placing the deer in a cooler or refrigerator to prevent the meat from spoiling.

Conclusion

If you’re planning on hanging a deer in warm weather, you’ll want to take some extra precautions to make sure that the meat doesn’t spoil. First, you’ll want to choose a cool, shady spot to hang the deer. If possible, hang the deer in a breezy spot so that the air can circulate around the meat and help keep it cool. Secondly, you’ll want to make sure that the deer is completely gutted before you hang it. If the intestines are left in, they can quickly start to rot and contaminate the meat. Finally, you’ll want to check the temperature of the meat regularly. If it starts to get too warm, you can either move the deer to a cooler spot or take it down and refrigerate it.

When the .300 PRC (Precision Rifle Cartridge) was announced, most shooters scoffed: “Just what we need—another .30-caliber magnum.” It seemed like the proverbial answer to an unasked question.

Then, savvy shooters took a closer look and were impressed. They gave it a try and became even more impressed.

Within three short years, the .300 PRC became the primary .30-caliber magnum challenger to the worldwide king of the .300s: the .300 Winchester Magnum. That’s a meteoric rise in prominence, rivaled only by its own smaller sibling: the 6.5 PRC.

Now that we have both “The King of .300s” and this new high-octane modern challenger, the question must be asked: Which is better?

As a philosopher might say, “The answer is very simple, yet also very complex.” Here’s the short version: Which one is better for you depends…on you.

Each .30-caliber magnum cartridge has advantages and disadvantages. Your needs as a shooter and hunter will dictate which is best—for you. But I suspect you already knew that. So, without further ado, let’s dive into the pros and cons.

Because it’s the veteran, let’s accord the .300 Win. Mag. the respect it deserves and address it first.

.300 Win. Mag. Pros

The .300 Win. Mag. is the worldwide dominant .30-caliber magnum. It’s cleanly taken every big-game animal that walks American soil and probably every legal species of critter that walks the earth—anywhere. That’s including terrorists at some pretty jaw-dropping distances, in the hands of our sniper boys and their British pals.

Although its stubby neck and belted behind are outdated design characteristics that theoretically are not optimal for accuracy, the .300 Win. Mag. has always confounded its skeptics and shot better than it has any right to.

Powder-capacity-to-bore-diameter ratio is on the top side of optimal, meaning it’s on the cusp of being overbored without actually being overbored. As a result, it’s surprisingly efficient, particularly with heavy, aerodynamic bullets in the 200-grain weight range. As a lovely side benefit, such bullets absolutely wallop big game.

On the subject of bullets, you can get factory ammo loaded with a broad spectrum of different projectiles. Light and fast, heavy and tough, heavy and sleek and super-efficient, you name it. It’s easy to find a load tailored perfectly for your purposes, whether that purpose is shooting whitetails way off across a beanfield or moose in an alder thicket or steel targets a half-mile away.

Also, handloading data is widely available and exhaustive in scope. If our selection of factory ammo is broad, handloading potential is truly vast. Pick any bullet from 110 to 250 grains and have at it. Rifling twist rates apply.

Every rifle manufacturer offers myriad models chambered in .300 Win. Mag., so you can be really picky when selecting just the right rifle. Just as important, magazines—whether internal or detachable types—have all the wrinkles ironed out of them. Most .300 Win. Mag. rifles easily contain the advertised number of cartridges and feed them smoothly and reliably.

Because the .300 Win. Mag. is so widely respected and available around the world, it’s an excellent option for travelers—domestic and international—because even if your baggage gets separated in transit and lost, as long as your rifle arrives, you can always find ammo in a local shop.

The combined result of all these advantages stacked up is one of—if not the—best practical choices for hunting any non-dangerous game, anywhere around the world.

.300 Win. Mag. Cons

Okay. Here we go. The grand old king of the .30s does have some downsides, too. Mostly, it’s in the fact that many rifles chambered for it have quite loose chamber tolerances. In such, the demons contained in the short neck and belted case design emerge. They can wreak havoc with accuracy.

An old but proven cartridge design rule recommends that the neck of a cartridge be at least one caliber long, meaning that for a .30-caliber cartridge, the neck should be at least three tenths of an inch long. Designers curtailed the neck of the .300 Win. Mag., gambling that it would prove sufficient and the propellant capacity gained by pushing the shoulder of the cartridge as far forward as possible would pay off.

When manufacturing ammo, whether at the handloading bench or on the factory assembly line, it’s harder to hold tight tolerances when the neck is short. Bullet concentricity is at risk. Neck tension is less consistent. And so forth.

The belts on traditional magnum cases were originally designed to give the long, tapered cartridges of yore a predictable surface to headspace against. Holland & Holland’s .375 H&H and Super Thirty have a lot of body taper and shallow shoulders. This enables cartridges to feed like grease on glass and to extract easily and reliably—particularly important characteristics in cartridges commonly used on dangerous game in Africa and India. Easy extraction was a big deal when cordite propellant was the go-to bullet-pushing chemical of the day; it tended to exhibit pressure spikes in tropical weather conditions. Those cartridges needed the belt.

Our .300 Win. Mag., however, doesn’t need the belt. On it, the belt is just a holdover from the parent case. Had designers owned a functioning crystal ball, perhaps they would have seen fit to lathe-turn the belt off of their prototype .300 Win. Mag. cases, which would have created a really optimal cartridge case shape for the embryonic new round.

Here’s the important takeaway, folks. The belt is outdated, yes. It’s useless, yes. But the belt harms absolutely nothing at all. Performance doesn’t suffer, reliability doesn’t suffer, nothing. So quit griping about the belt.

.300 PRC Pros

Ah…here we go. This is the Ferrari of rifle cartridges. Introduced in 2018, the .300 PRC utilizes a .375 Ruger case necked down to hold .30-caliber bullets. This is a broad-based, non-belted, standard-length (.30-06 length) case originally derived from the .404 Jeffery.

Geometrically, the .300 PRC case is as nearly perfect as mankind and computers can achieve. Neck length is ideal. Shoulder angle is ideal. There’s no belt around the case head. There’s little efficiency-robbing taper to the body.

“Against all odds,” naysayers grudgingly admit, “the .300 PRC has a toehold.”

“Thanks to an ultimate combination of refined characteristics,” acolytes claim, “the .300 PRC is rapidly earning the recognition it deserves.”

Both are right.

When the .300 PRC launched, we already had the .300 H&H, the .300 Win. Mag., the .300 WSM, the .300 RUM, the .300 RSAUM, the .300 Norma, the .300 Weatherby, the .30-378 Weatherby, the .300 RCM…my word, more .30-caliber magnums than a beaver could shake a stick at.

However, not one of this long list of cartridges stacks every characteristic in the “positive” column and none in the “negative.” Many have outdated case design features. Some are overbored. Some are underpowered. Some are efficient, but not configured to shoot high-ballistic-coefficient (BC) bullets with best-in-class aerodynamics.

There are very few cartridges about which one can say, “It has it all.” The .300 PRC is one. The few disadvantages associated with it—and, yes, there are some—have nothing to do with design or performance and everything to do with distribution and availability. But I’ll get to that soon enough.

Let’s start with the most important characteristics and work down. Foremost, at least in this man’s opinion, is the fact that from the ground up the .300 PRC was engineered to provide optimal performance with long, heavy-for-caliber, high-BC bullets.

Hornady’s cartridge gurus (they’ve dreamt up and introduced the three most successful new cartridges of the 21st century) gave the .300 PRC a generous “head height.” Head height is the distance between the cartridge case mouth and the end of the magazine. It dictates how much bullet can stick out of the end of the cartridge case and still allow the whole cartridge to fit into a rifle magazine.

Traditionally, powder capacity was valued more than head height, so bullets were given short, blunt ogives (the curve from the tip of the bullet to full diameter) and seated deep into the case. Cartridge shoulders were positioned far forward so that the case would hold as much propellant as possible. That bullet bases would protrude way down into the propellant chamber was accepted as a necessary evil.

Not necessary, claimed the .300 PRC’s architects.

Case in point (if you’ll forgive the horrible pun): The thunderous .300 RUM and the .300 PRC have nearly identical overall cartridge lengths. Both require true long rifle actions. However, the shoulder on the RUM is much farther from the cartridge base. The RUM holds considerably more powder, yet the .300 PRC will shoot flatter at long range.

How? Because Hornady’s engineers optimized the efficiency of the internal combustion chamber and gave the cartridge plenty of head height. You can comfortably load .300 PRC cartridges with extremely sleek, aerodynamic bullets that have long, fine-entry noses. In the .300 PRC, bullet bases don’t protrude down into powder capacity. Projectiles start slower than the blunter bullets from the .300 RUM but hold their speed better and quickly overtake them. At extreme range, there’s just no contest.

But we’re not here to compare the .300 PRC with the .300 RUM. So how does it stack up to the .300 Win. Mag.? I love the old Winchester cartridge, so it hurts my feelings a little to say this, but the .300 PRC walks all over it, ballistically.

Why? Because the .300 PRC shoots those long, high-BC bullets that won’t fit and feed from .300 Win. Mag. magazines, and it starts them nearly as fast as the .300 Win. Mag. shoots normal bullets.

In addition to cartridge head height optimal for modern, extreme-BC bullets, the .300 PRC features a chamber spec’d with very tight tolerances. You’ll rarely, if ever, see a .300 PRC rifle that won’t shoot due to a sloppy chamber. Plus, the chamber throat and rifling leade areas are engineered for ideal compatibility with those sleek-nosed, high-BC bullets we’re making such a big deal about.

Crucially important in making all these cutting-edge puzzle pieces fit together is fast rifling. Most .300 PRC rifles have a twist rate of 1 turn in 9 inches or faster; some are as fast as 1:8. Either will properly stabilize most of today’s extreme-range superbullets.

The .300 Win. Mag. (and basically all the other .30-caliber magnums) have a 1:10 twist rate that will not adequately stabilize today’s best long-range projectiles.

Let’s move on. In the world of internal combustion, the .300 PRC has a much different chamber shape than the .300 Win. Mag. It contains more gunpowder, so one might think it crosses the cusp into overbore territory.

Nope. Not quite. Thanks to the way it holds that propellant in a broader, slightly shorter cylindrical shape, it burns a tad more efficiently than the .300 Win. Mag. When ignited from one end, a fatter, shorter column of powder burns more instantly and efficiently than a long, skinny column.

Before listing the .300 PRC’s disadvantages, let’s take a look at a ballistic comparison between it and the .300 Win. Mag.

I’ve crunched ballistics using the best high-BC factory loads listed on Hornady’s website.

In the .300 Win. Mag., the 200-grain ELD-X projectile has a G1 BC of 0.597 and a G7 BC of 0.301—really pretty darned good. It’s rated to exit the muzzle at 2,850 fps. It is, candidly, a fantastic load.

In the .300 PRC, the 225-grain ELD Match bullet has a G1 BC of 0.777 and a G7 BC of .391. That’s nearly unearthly, and it doesn’t hold a candle to the extreme-BC projectiles handloaders like me get all giddy about, such as the 250-grain A-Tip.

But I digress. The 225-grain projectile is rated to exit the muzzle at 2,810 fps, just 40 fps slower than the .300 Win. Mag. bullet.

I’ve included a chart to display long-range performance out to 1,500 yards. The ballistics were calculated using standard sea-level atmospherics, a 200-yard zero, and a 10-mph full-value crosswind.

.300 PRC Cons

The .300 PRC’s disadvantages are minuscule and don’t reflect specifically on the cartridge, but they must be considered nonetheless.

Worst is the current very limited selection of factory-loaded ammunition. As I write this, only Hornady offers factory ammo—and just two loads. This is changing fast, and I predict that within a year we will see factory-loaded .300 PRC ammo from Federal, Barnes, Winchester, Browning, and others. Many rifle companies now list the .300 PRC in their top-five sellers, and ammo companies can’t ignore numbers like that.

For now, though, non-handloaders have their pick of…Hornady and Hornady. The good news is Hornady makes great ammo.

For handloaders, the world is their .300-PRC oyster. Dies and data are readily available, and the cartridge shoots well with darn near any combination you put in it.

I can’t even list limited rifle selection as a disadvantage. Not anymore. Most of the big rifle manufacturers and all of the boutique makers worth their salt offer several excellent models in .300 PRC.

How about recoil? Well, that’s subjective. Because the .300 PRC is usually loaded with heavy-for-caliber bullets, it does kick more than the average .300 Win. Mag. load. However, if you load them both with the same bullet weight, the difference is negligible. The way I see it, that extra recoil is symbolic of the enhanced performance you get by shooting those extreme-BC projectiles. But, yes, the .300 PRC does kick.

So Which Is Better?

As I mentioned in the beginning, in the final analysis, only you can decide which cartridge better fits your needs. I can give you a little guidance, though.

If you’re a practical sort, who values proven performance and ready availability, I suspect the .300 Win. Mag. is your cuppa tea.

If you like finessing the last iota of performance out of your shooting setup, and you handload, and you rarely shoot factory ammo anyway, you owe yourself a .300 PRC.

Here’s the good news. As much fun as it is to weigh every aspect and characteristic, however slight, and endlessly debate the merits of one over the other, in the end you can’t go wrong with either.

The ability to hit a fast-moving bird is the most important aspect of teal hunting, but having the right choke in your shotgun when the bird finally commits to the decoys is second. In this guide, we’ll take a look at the three choke tubes that work well for hunting teal and why you should consider them.

The most popular steel shot sizes for teal hunting are #6 and #4. Choosing a choke tube that can deliver uniform patterns at the right distances is critical for early teal season success. Carlson’s Modified choke happens to pattern #6 shot extremely well, producing consistent results at 30 yards.

Top 3 Best Choke Tubes for Teal Hunting

These are the three chokes that you should consider for your next teal hunt that can provide dense and consistent patterns downrange with steel shot. As always, patterning your shotgun is extremely important to find out which choke tubes and ammo work best out of it.

1) Carlson’s Modified Choke Tube

Carlson’s is one of the most trusted choke tube brands in the industry and their extended modified choke is perfect for teal hunting. It delivers a dense pattern out to 35 yards with steel #6’s and makes for a versatile all-around choke tube for most teal hunting situations.

Regardless if you’re hunting the rice fields of Texas or the rivers of Arkansas, this choke performs exceptionally well at medium ranges over decoys for teal. #4 and #6 shot happen to be the sweet spot with this choke, and fast flying teal just can’t escape it. This is the TOP pick.

2) Patternmaster Code Black Choke

The Patternmaster Code Black is a top-of-the-line choke tube that provides unmatched performance for long-range teal hunting situations. If you’re thinking of picking up a new choke not just for teal, but to use all season long, this is the choke to consider.

The Patternmaster Code Black is great for field hunts, ponds, lakes, and rivers where the range of shots varies and you’ll be able to handle it all without having to change chokes mid hunt. Patternmaster works with internal studs that halt the wad just before it exits the barrel, resulting in a controlled wad seperation that increases pellet distribution and limits flyer pellets. Expect it to pattern closer to a full choke. This is the TOP pick for MAX range.

3) Carlson’s Cremator Choke Tube

The Carlson’s Cremator choke tube is an excellent choice for teal hunters who need a versatile choke that can perform well with a variety of shotshell loads. This choke tube uses a unique design that consists of multiple tapers, which work together to provide a consistent shot pattern. This makes the Cremator ideal for hunting situations where you need to be able to adjust your shooting style quickly and accurately.

The Cremator is equipped with triple shot technology which gradually compresses the shot column as it exits the barrel to prevent deformation. This is the perfect choke for medium range teal hunting with #4 and #6 shot. Carlson’s Cremator can produce 80% of pellets inside a 30-inch circle at 40 yards with the right ammo. This is the BUDGET pick.

Why a modified choke works best for Teal Hunting

Modified chokes are the middle ground of choke diameters (0.705”) and because of this are versatile in many different hunting situations. Chokes in modified can handle teal decoying close as well as long fast-moving passing shots as they attempt to exit.

Modified choke tubes work especially well with #6 steel shot and it’s not uncommon to pattern this choke and ammo combination and receive 80% coverage in a 30-inch circle at 30 yards. Steel shot also works well with an improved cylinder choke tube like the Carlson’s extended choke mentioned above.

How to hunt Teal

Teal are some of the easiest waterfowl to hunt during the special early season. They typically decoy with reckless abandonment and are suckers for spinning wing decoys. Your choke setup will likely need to be tailored to the types of teal you will be hunting and how they react to decoy spreads.

Teal hunting in tight spaces can limit which chokes are best. If most of your shots are in thick brush or dense vegetation, shots within 20-25 yards where an Improved Cylinder (0.715”) which opens the shot up quicker will be the top choice.

For teal in open terrain like rice fields where birds may pass from further out, the modified (0.705”) or improved modified (0.695”) are the top choices that will keep your pattern together for shots between 30 and 40 yards.

Teal Choke Tubes and Ranges

• Improved Cylinder (10-20 yards) – Up close decoying shots
• Modified (20-40 yards) – Decoying and medium passing shots
• Improved Modified (35-45 yards) – Long range decoying shots
• Full Choke (40-60 yards) – High flying birds over 40 yards

Ballistics show that a 1300 fps load of steel #6 shot enters 0.90″ of gel penetration at 30.5 yards, while a 1300 fps load of steel #4 shot enters 0.90″ of gel penetration at 33.4 yards. These are the max ranges for #6 and #4 steel shot while teal hunting.

The chart above shows the recommended choke tube and range in yards for teal hunting. Modified is the best choke for typical teal hunting shots that include close decoying and bird exiting scenarios. Improved cylinder is the best for close flushing shots just as the teal rises. Improved modified (IM) and full chokes are best for longer range shots after the bird is exiting and gained full momentum.

Teal Hunting Field Tips

• Get a set of improved cylinder, modified, and improved modified chokes
• This will let you switch chokes as conditions change
• Steel #6’s and an IC choke tube work well on close birds
• Keep shots below 40 yards, know your ammo and choke limitations
• A full choke may be needed for those days where birds are skirting the decoys
• Windy days, especially those with cross winds, you may need to up your pellet size
• Pattern your shotgun to find out what choke and ammo work best
• If using a tight choke, allow a bird decoying close to get distance before shooting

Modified choke tubes can take a lot of the guess work out of teal hunting. They usually work well with most ammo and won’t damage the birds at close ranges.

Having a set of choke tubes in your hunting vest or backpack is the best option that works well for changing conditions. You can tailor your setup to how teal are responding while in the field and changing a choke only takes seconds with a good choke wrench.

What to expect

When it comes to choosing the right choke tube for hunting teal, Carlson’s Modified choke stands out from its competitors. The Carlson’s Modified choke is engineered with a unique design that provides consistent and even shot patterns, resulting in better accuracy and a higher precision. Unlike most of its competitors, the Modified choke ensures that the shot is evenly distributed, reducing the chances of having holes or gaps in your pattern. Overall, the Carlson’s Modified choke is a top performer, delivering outstanding results that set it apart from the competition.

Bottom Line

Teal hunting requires a choke size geared toward the situation at hand. #6 and #4 steel shot are popular pellet sizes most teal hunters use. Naturally, finding a choke tube that patterns these loads well is key to success in the field.

A modified choke such as the extended chokes that Carlson’s offers work well for an all-around teal hunting choke tube with small steel shot. The Patternmaster Code Black and Carlson’s Cremator choke are two options for chokes you can use for teal season and also rely on in the general season as well.

Hunting teal and figuring out how the birds are responding will help determine which choke size you may need. Shots on teal in open terrain tend to be longer where a modified or improved modified are best. Teal in dense vegetation and brush may only require an improved cylinder for shots inside 20 yards.

Latest Posts

• Best Waterfowl Choke Tubes for Duck Hunting Success
• Choke Tube Diameter and Constriction Table
• 7.5 vs 8 shot: The 3 Key Differences to Know

Last update on 2024-11-08 / Affiliate links / Product Images from Amazon Product Advertising API

Most modern bows have a complex method to adjust the draw length, and most require a bow press.

However, Bear compound bows are generally very easy to adjust and do not require the use of a bow press.

For this reason, Bear compound bows are one of the best bows for beginners.

Bear Adjustment System

Bear bows are one of the most beginner-friendly compound bows on the market.

This is because Bear archery made their bows completely adjustable for the draw weight and even the draw length.

There are some variations between the models, but the concept is generally the same.

Adjusting the Draw Length

Adjusting the draw length on your Bear compound bow is quite simple and can be done in less than ten minutes.

There are two steps to adjusting the draw length of a compound bow. First, we will adjust the module; this will set the draw length to your desired length.

Second, we must set the stop; this will ensure that the cams stop turning when you drawback.

Tools Needed

Adjusting a Bear compound bow is so easy that there are no tools needed other than the right size Allen keys.

This varies from model to model, so I like to have an Allen key set.

Fitting the small screws can also be a bit tricky, so I like to put my bow in a bow vice when adjusting it; however, this isn’t necessary.

Adjusting the Module

A compound bow module determines the draw length of a compound bow.

Many modules have only a limited range, allowing the bow to be adjusted in only small increments or in some cases, not at all.

However, the modules found on a Bear compound bow have a wide range of adjustments and, in most cases, do not need to be swapped for any size draw length.

To adjust the draw length on the bear compound bow module:

1. Find your draw length number. Once you know your draw length, you can find it’s corresponding number on the bear compound bow cam. For example: on a Bear Wild compound bow a 28 inch draw is number 4 on the module.
2. Secure the bow in a position that is comfortable to work on.
3. Locate the module. This is usually located on the cam on a single cam bow. On a dual cam bow the module is typically located on the tom cam.
4. Unscrew the two screws on the back of the module. Be careful not to lose the screws as the module will fall once the two screws are undone.
5. Slide the module to the number that corresponds with your draw length.
6. Locate the two holes that perfectly align between the module and the bow and redo the screws. Hand tighten the screws and be careful not to overtighten.

Adjusting the Stopper

Now that the draw length is set, we have to set the stopper to align with the draw length.

1. Locate the stopper. Typically on a single cam bow, the stopper is located on on the outside of the cam.
2. On a dual cam bow, there are two stoppers, and it is important that both are set equally to ensure your bow is firing evenly.
3. Undo the stopper and set it to the same number as what you set the module to.
4. Drawback your bow to check your draw length.

Important Things to Remember

Ensure that you are using the proper tools. Some bow manufacturers use metric measurements, and others use imperial. Find the one that fits your bow perfectly to prevent damaging the screws.

Double-check that you are undoing the proper screws. There are a lot of screws around the cams of a bow, so it’s important to double and triple-check that you have the correct screw.

Undoing the wrong screw could cause damage to the bow and injury to you.

Final Thoughts

Adjusting the draw length on a Bear compound bow is straightforward.

Once you find your corresponding number on the module to match your draw length, it’s only a matter of moving the module and the stopper to that number.

The whole process takes less than ten minutes, and you’re back up shooting again.

It’s easy to mistake the screws, so double-check that you have the right screw before undoing it to prevent damage and possible injury.

Rainbow trout has a mild and delicate flavor. Cooked properly, rainbow trout meat is light pink, tender and flakes easily. Trout has a slightly nutty flavor and is completed by flavors such as thyme, bacon and pine nuts.

Brown troutcaught from a river has a fishier, stronger taste. The meat is darker and contains more oils. Larger brown trout can be extremely gamey tasting and may need to be soaked in milk overnight before cooking to help remove excess oils.

Cutthroat trout and brook trout are milder but still have that trout taste. The steelhead trout has orange color meat and is similar to salmon. Once cooked, the light orange meat has a delicate texture.

Lake trout, Dolly Varden, arctic char, and brook trout are actually more closely related to the salmon family. These fish are varieties of a group called char. While they come from the same family as trout, they are more salmonlike in taste and appearance.

What does rainbow trout taste like?

Rainbow trout caught in the wild has a mild flavor. It has a bit of a fishy taste befitting of a freshwater fish, but has a more delicate flavor than other trout species. Freshwater trout or farmed trout is found in stocked ponds and rivers. This depends on the clarity of the fresh water and what type of other fish live in the water. Like other fish, trout eat many things, including bugs, algae, smaller fish, and debris off the bottom.

Many anglers say lake trout taste is similar to eating dirt. Others say it depends on how many trout live in the water and if they have a sufficient food source with a healthy population of fish to eat. Rainbow trout eating fish will have different flavors and textures to the meat than trout dining on the algae and debris in the lake water.

Nutrition value of rainbow trout

Eating rainbow trout is recommended by doctors because of its high nutritional value. Rainbow trout contains low levels of dangerous mercury but has high values of essential amino acids including Omega-3 fatty acids. Properly cooked fish retains its nutritional value and has heart-healthy levels of Vitamins A, D, and B12. Rainbow trout is also a good source of low-fat protein.

Trout vs Salmon: Taste Differences

Trout and salmon are closely related, so it makes sense that the fish have similar tastes. Both are oily fish with pink meat. Brown trout and golden trout have flesh with more of a reddish-orange color. This meat tends to be oilier and these trout taste like salmon more than the others. Rainbow trout and speckled trout have lighter colored meat, that is softer and mushier than the meat from other trout fish.

Best Seasoning for Trout and Other Freshwater Fish

Rainbow trout is one of the most commonly eaten trout. Raised in fish farms or hatcheries for fly fishing, rainbow trout are bred for sportsmen who want to catch and release or catch and eat trout. While they can reproduce in the wild, many of the young fish do not make it through the life cycle because they are eaten by other fish.

There are many ways to cook rainbow trout. Many anglers like to cook a whole trout over a campfire by the side of the stream after a day of trout fishing. Pan-fried in butter and drizzled with lemon juice, fresh rainbow trout offers a mild flavor and flaky white meat.

Butter

It is possible to fry fish in olive oil or vegetable oil, but butter is best when cooking trout or any delicate fish. Put the butter in the pan over medium-high heat. Once the butter begins to sizzle lay the fillets in the pan. Allow them to fry for 3-5 five minutes, basting them with the excess butter. This helps cook the fish through and keeps the side facing up from becoming dry. Flip the fish once and finish the cooking.

Thyme

Thyme, a wild-growing herb from the oregano family has a minty, lemony taste that tames the gamey taste of trout. It is especially tasty when combined with lemon or garlic.

Lemon

Lemon is an excellent addition to any fish dish. When fish die, their bodies begin to produce amines. Similar to ammonia, these alkaline molecules enhance smell and taste. The result is that nasty, strong, fish like smell. Adding an acid, in the form of lemon juice, affects rainbow trout taste by neutralizing the amines. The resulting trout taste is mild and meaty.

Dill

Dill using sparingly can add a little bit of bite to your fish meal. This tangy herb is just a little bit citrusy and can help reduce that fishy trout taste. It also adds a dash of bright color to your dish.

Garlic

Pungent, aromatic garlic is added to many seasonings and spices. Paired with garlic and lemon, it makes rainbow trout taste tangy and flavorful without destroying the actual trout taste.

Bacon

Bacon and fish are excellent partners in the pan. The crispy thin slices of bacon provide a nice complement to the mild, meaty fish fillets. The bacon grease imparts a slightly smokey, salty flavor and makes the rainbow trout taste like you just cooked it over an open fire.

Capers

Capers are small edible buds that have a sour, lemony taste with the texture of olives. Capers are made by bringing the unripened buds in vinegar. This creates a tart, acidic bite that affects fish in much the same way lemon juice does. The acidic capers neutralize the amines that create that fishy taste and smell.

Best Ways to Cook Trout

Pan-Fried

Trout can be pan-fried with the skin or without. Using butter for frying and having a hot pan allows you to produce crispy skin without burning the fish. A seasoned cast iron pan over an open campfire is the preferred cooking method for many anglers. Be sure to keep basting the fish with the excess butter when pan-frying to keep it from getting dried out.

Battered

Battered and fried fish is delicious, no matter if it is rainbow trout or some other species of fish. Make a simple batter using a packaged mix and beer or milk. Drop the battered fish pieces in boiling hot oil and cook until it floats to the top and is lightly browned.

Grilled

Like salmon, trout fillets or fish steaks can be grilled. Firm trout like browns or lake trout hold up best to grilling, but it is possible to prepare rainbow trout on the grill. For best results, the grill needs to be preheated to medium heat and the grill grates should be well greased or buttered because the fish will stick. After gutting the fish, stuff the cavity with butter and spices and grill the trout for 4-6 minutes on each side.

Baked

Baked rainbow trout is healthy and easy to prepare. Line a baking sheet with foil squares. Place the trout skin side down and brush it with melted butter. Sprinkle seasonings on top and add a thinly sliced lemon. Loosely close the foil around the fish. Bake at 375 degrees for 20-25 minutes.

My favourite trout recipe

• Ingredients
• Butter
• Bacon (chopped)
• Thyme – small bunch. Strip the leaves off the stem and use leaves only.
• Lemon slices
• Olive oil
• Salt

1. Take one or more medium sized rainbow trout (approx 13” or 1lb) cleaned and scaled
2. Take out a 14”piece of aluminum foil – one for each trout
3. Place the each trout in the centre of the foil
4. Put a chunk of butter, the bacon, thyme and a couple of lemon slices into the gut cavity of the fish
5. Rub the olive oil into the flanks of the fish and season with salt
6. Close up the aluminium foil wrapping up the fish to seal in the ingredients
7. Cook on medium heat on the grill (or in a pan) for 20 minutes
8. Unwrap and serve

How to Clean Rainbow Trout

Rainbow trout can be prepared for cooking in several ways. The skin of the fish is completely edible, although some people do not like the way the cooked skin of rainbow trout tastes.

The simplest method of cleaning is to simply gut the fish and give it quick rinse in cold, fresh water. You can then grill, pan fry, or bake the whole fish.

How to Debone Cooked Rainbow Trout

Rainbow trout, like other trout, have many tiny pin bones. These small bones should not be eaten. After cooking the fish, you can remove the bones by lifting the entire skeleton out in one piece.

Cook the whole fish after gutting it. Remove the fins. Use a sharp knife to split the skin along the spine. Use a fork to gently press the meat down while you lift up on the tail. The fish will split into halves. You can then lift the entire skeleton by lifting it carefully.

Final thoughts on rainbow trout taste

The final thing to remember about trout is their taste is influence by what they feed on. In general, lake dwelling fish have a higher proportion of crustaceans in their diet – such as crawfish – and as a result have pink flesh that tastier and more appealing than their river-dwelling cousins.