At some point in your deer hunting your career you’ve probably heard these marque words…Deer must be on acorns! But what does that really mean to you as a deer hunter and how can you capitalize? The answers to those two simple questions can and will change the way you hunt, hopefully for the better. So let’s dive in and look at how to identify oaks, what acorns deer prefer, and when….from a deer hunter’s prospective.

How to Identify White and Red Oaks

All Oaks can be categorized into 2 different major families or classifications, White or Red, and then further identified into subspecies. Identifying specific oaks into intermediate classifications or subspecies can get to be fairly tricky and honestly quite confusing with over 200 subscpecies across North America. Oak trees will vary from region to region and there’s numerous variables that will impact how a tree, it’s leaves, and acorns look. Anything from soil type, weather events, disease, maturity, etc can alter a tree’s or acorn’s appearance. So we’re going to keep it simple and establish a solid foundation by simply learning the difference between the two major classifications…. White or Red?

White or Red By Leaf – First Priority

Using an Oaks leaf to identify which family it belongs to is always first priority for me. Since 9th grade biology class, telling White Oaks from Red Oaks has always been the easiest by looking at the leaves. While there are a few differentiations between leaf types we’re keeping it simple…K.I.S.S. White Oak leaves have rounded lobes, Red Oak leaves have pointed lobes with a needle or bristle at the end. There are subspecies of oaks, for example a shingle oak member of the Red Oak family, that carry leaves without lobes but generally speaking you can determine which family it belongs to by whether or not the leaf carries a bristle at the tip of the leaf.

As seen in the photo above, this leaf has rounded lobes or edges which is the telling sign of a White Oak. This specific leaf is from a Swamp White Oak found in Northeast Ohio.

In the photo below, you can see sharp or pointed lobes/edges signifying a tree from the Red Oak family. Also note the bristle on each lobe.

White or Red by Acorns – Second Priority

Boots on the ground scouting throughout the season will often lead you into oak stands and acorns on the forest floor. As a general rule of thumb, if you were to compare White Oak acorns vs Red Oak acorns, acorns from White Oaks are going to be longer in length but smaller in diameter. Red Oak acorns will be the exact opposite shorter in length but be larger in diameter. So think Red for girth and White for length. There are a few other characteristics that differentiate the two but again K.I.S.S.

White or Red by Bark – Third Priority

Bark identification can be a lot more confusing, thus we turn to this last and only if needed. Things like soil types, tree maturity, even the height at which you are referencing the bark can give you different visual appearances. Keeping it simple, Red Oaks will generally have a smoother and a darker colored bark. While White Oak bark will have deeper grooved bark with a lighter grey color.

The Acorn – Find Them and Find the Deer

So know we have a basic understanding of a few ways to identify the two oak family groups. Let’s talk about about how each relates to a whitetail’s diet through out the year and why.

This might be hard to imagine or believe, but give deer a choice between acorns or corn/ag and acorns are the preferred food source. Not exactly what the industry preaches. Generally speaking, acorns are low in protein (6%) but high in carbs (42%) and fats (52%). Because acorns are easily digestible and readily available deer can consume a large quantity relatively easy. I believe this contributes to the October “Lull” theories (which I believe to be a total myth). Deer just don’t have to travel far to food while the forest floor is serving an ample buffet. Find that food during hunting season and you’ll be in business.

What Acorn Deer Prefer In The Early Season

Generally speaking, White Oak acorns have the lowest tannic acid levels which provide them with a sweeter flavor over Red Oak acorns. Thus this nut is what deer prefer when available and will continue to consume them throughout the year while they are still edible. Mast drops will vary across the United States but as a general rule of thumb White Oak acorns will start falling late August/early September and lose their acorns relatively quick. Typically, by mid winter any White Oak acorns still laying on the forest floor have either rotted or started the germination process. White oaks produce acorns every year and it’s common for every 3rd year to be a heavier crop for the specific tree.

What Acorn Deer Prefer In The Late Season

With Red Oak acorns having a higher level in tannic acid they have a more bitter taste making them less preferred by deer. Red Oaks will start dropping acorns a few weeks after White Oaks and the falling is much more prolonged. So with White Oak acorns being preferred, Red Oak acorns falling later and slower they become a solid food source for whitetail deer in the late season. Red Oak acorns take 24 months to mature, so there will only be a crop every other year.

A big shout out to Chris Creed, from Afflictor broadheads, for helping us put this Youtube video all about identifying oaks. If you watch and have any feedback be sure to leave a comment!

Scroll through any social media group or internet forum and it’s almost a guarantee you’ll see some thread or comment about the lost art of woodsmanship. Having a basic understanding how to identify the two major Oak families definitely aids in woodsmanship and goes a long way in the whitetail woods. We put great effort in all of our content here in hopes it provides value to you as a whitetail hunter, all we ask in return is that you pass it on!

Choosing the best snow goose ammo can be overwhelming due to the wide range of options available these days. Many ammo manufacturers have loads designed specifically for snows, like Federal Black Cloud. But are these loads what you should be shooting on your next snow goose hunt?

The short answer is NO, not really. Most are gimmick loads for spring snow goose hunts that will do alright in a pinch, but they are the not the best. For a snow goose load to be the best, it has to perform across a wide range of conditions, bring knock down power, and be able to pattern tightly at long distances. The best snow goose loads are the 10 gauge 3 ½ inch 1 3/4oz. load of #2 Hevishot and the 12 gauge 3 inch 1 3/8oz. Heavyweight #4’s.

These loads are the perfect mix of ballistics and density that crush decoying snow geese out to 70 yards. If you’ve shot these load you already know, and if you haven’t, feel free to go on believing what you’re using even comes close. In this review, we’ll take a closer look at the top snow goose ammo currently available and discuss what makes them so effective.

Best Steel Shot Ammo for Snow Geese

Steel shot is the most popular ammo shot at geese on any given year. Why? Because it’s CHEAP! Very rarely will you find the cheapest of anything being the best in its class. Well, steel shot is far from the best snow goose load, but it will harvest birds cleanly if patterned correctly and birds are within range when the shot is called. These are some of the top steel snow goose loads I’ve had the most success with.

• HEVI-Snow 12ga 1 3/8 oz. BB or BBB at 1550fps (click to see this ammo at Cabelas)
• 12/10ga 1 ½ oz. #BB or BBB at 1600FPS (Made by Sporting Ammo)
• 10ga 1 ¾ oz. #BB at 1265FPS (Remington)
• 12ga 1 9/16 oz. #BBB at 1300 FPS (Kent) (click here to see this ammo at Cabelas)

Popular 3 inch and 3.5 inch Waterfowl Ammo

Typical steel shot sizes for geese range from #2 all the way up to F-shot. The best all-around steel pellet size in my opinion is BBB. It allows for a good pattern density (62 pellets/oz.) and the knock down power for shots past 50 yards. If a situation arises, like e-caller season in a hot field, then you could drop down to #1 shot for added pattern density up close. Likewise, if you are going to be pass shooting, a well patterned load of T-shot is hard to beat.

Related: Need a new choke tube? Check out the list of the top performers here.

The best steel shot ammo currently is a 1 ½ oz. load traveling at 1600 fps. This load is a great combination of payload and speed. To find out how many pellets are in the loads you’re shooting, check out our pellet count table here.

Here’s a great clip that shows what you can expect to achieve with HEVI-Snow Loads.

Best Long Range Ammo for Snow Geese

The alternative to steel shot is Hevishot and other tungsten based ammo. Tungsten loads, due to their long range effectiveness, are the best snow goose rounds available today. Typical Hevishot density is 12 g/cc and Tungsten Super Shot (TSS) is 18 g/cc. For comparison, steel shot density is 7.3 g/cc. What does this mean? Tungsten based pellets are heavier and can retain energy at further distances than steel shot. This additional energy means better pellet pass through and vital hits at 50 yards or more.

Something that tungsten ammo also does well is it allows you to increase your pattern density by dropping pellet sizes. If you normally shoot #2 steel shot, you can get the same ballistics out of a #5-6 tungsten pellet. This means an increase of 120 pellets or more. With the ability of tungsten pellets to retain their energy longer and the increase gained in pattern density from reducing pellet size, tungsten shot produces some of the best ammo for hunting snow geese.

The following is a list of shot types and their densities.

• Steel……………………7.3 (g/cc)
• HeviSteel………………9.2
• Hevi Duck… …………..9.7
• Bismuth…………………..9.8
• Nice Shot…………………10.2
• Lead………………………11.3
• Winchester Ext. Range…12
• Remington HD……………12
• Hevi Goose………………12
• Hevi 13……………………13
• Federal Heavyweight….15
• TSS……………………..18

When it comes to goose hunting, shot that is denser than steel is preferred. There’s no arguing this. Will steel do the job? Of course, but Hevi-shot will do it 10 times better and reduce cripples. This means more birds in the bag, less time chasing cripples, and the ability to fold up birds at longer ranges. If you have shot tungsten based ammo at geese, you know what I’m talking about.

Tungsten loads also allow you to reduce your shot size to increase your pattern density. This makes even Hevishot #4 a viable load for decoying geese due to the energy retained at longer distances. Steel loads just can’t match it.

I realize cost is a big factor in determining which loads most people choose. Very few want to spend $20-30 for 10 shells. The off season is the perfect time to look for discounted ammo deals on websites to pick these kinds of shells up more affordably. Additionally, learning to load your own shells can also reduce the cost by ordering your loose tungsten shot in bulk.

Best Tungsten Ammo for Snow Geese

• 10 ga Hevishot load of 1 3/4oz #2’s @ 1300fps (click to see this load at Cabelas)
• 12 ga TSS 1 1/4oz. load of #5-7’s
• 12 ga Heavyweight 1 3/8 oz. #4’s (best 12 gauge load for snow geese)
• 12 ga Hevishot 3 inch 1 3/4oz. #4’s
• 10 ga Hevishot 1 7/8oz #4’s

Federal has since discontinued the waterfowl version of their Heavyweight line of shot, but it can still be found in their Turkey loads.

Pick the Best Ammo for the Hunting Situation

Ammunition is only as good as the conditions you’re hunting in. Decoy shooting up close vs. long distance pass shooting are two different hunting methods requiring different approaches. Hunting in a strong wind where shot drift occurs is a problem and usually happens with lighter density loads like steel. Hevishot and other tungsten loads are less affected by the negative effects of bad weather and high winds.

Your hunting situation will define what load is ideal. However, the only way to know if a load is ideal for your situation is to pattern it. Each gun is different. One load patterning great in your Benelli will not necessarily give good patterns in your Remington. Patterning is one of the most important aspects in finding a great load for a given situation. For additional patterning tips, check out this link.

Test different chokes tubes to find which patterns best with your gun. I’ve had good luck with Briley and Terror Chokes, but Patternmaster is also one that works good as well. Here’s a list of my top choke tubes for waterfowl and the results you can expect from each.

Bottom Line

Snow geese can be challenging birds to hunt, and having the wrong ammo can make the hunt even worse. The best snow goose ammo is tungsten based and capable of clean kills between 50-70 yards. Steel just can’t do it consistently.

My favorite load for snow geese is a 10ga 1 3/4oz load of Hevishot #2’s. This load is effective beyond 70 yards and will absolutely CRUSH snow geese. This load results in cleaner kills, less time chasing cripples, and more time in the blind hunting.

TSS is a relative newcomer, but it’s ballistically superior to even Hevishot. I’ve had a chance to reload some TSS shells and have been impressed with their performance, but I just haven’t gotten comfortable with it as a go to load. It’s more expensive ($50lb for bulk shot) and it patterns extremely tight. I have no doubts that with some tweaking it could be the best snow goose load around, I just haven’t been able to test it enough to be comfortable with it.

You won’t find steel shot in the best snow goose load, but if you must go with steel, try for the 1 ½ oz load of BB or BBB going 1600FPS.

For more snow goose hunting tips, check out my guide here!

If you want to protect your home from threats, you can’t just rely on security cameras and all those fancy-schmancy security systems.

What if the grid goes down?

They’ll be nothing more than decorations.

So to defend your fortress and your survival supplies when things go south, one thing you need to do is put together some booby traps.

Here’s what you need to know about them:

Important Things to Consider Before Rigging Your Booby Traps

Booby traps are devices designed to catch animals or people by surprise. Some can seriously injure or even kill a victim, while others are way tamer.

You can’t just make them for the heck of it. There are a couple of things you need to ask yourself first before you go and set traps all over your backyard:

Is It Legal?

Booby traps have a reputation for being vicious devices used in wars. With the injuries they can inflict, it’s no surprise that it’s illegal to make most of them.

Don’t try building punji stakes or toe poppers or any of those dangerous traps.

You’ll get into major trouble with the law and probably land in the slammer, and that’s the last thing you want when you’re prepping for SHTF.

Is It Safe to Set Up?

While something may be legal, that still doesn’t mean it’s safe. Setting up booby traps may put you in a sticky situation. There’s nothing worse than being taken out by the very things that were meant to protect you.

Think about your family, too. Will you be able to live with yourself if your significant other or kids get harmed?

If you have younger kids, then maybe it’s better for you to go with non-lethal self-defense weapons instead. You can keep these out of their reach but you can’t exactly do the same with tripwires.

Is It Easy to Spot?

Your booby traps should blend in with their environment. If not, it won’t take long for an intruder to discover and bypass them.

You’ll need to learn how to camouflage your traps well. That includes using certain wires instead of others and figuring out what colors to use to trick even the most seasoned thieves.

Also, it will be harder to trick enemies if your traps involve too many bells and whistles. Keep them small and simple.

Now that you know what to keep in mind, here are some booby traps you can make:

What Are the Perfect DIY Booby Traps for Home Defense?

Booby traps don’t need to be deadly to be effective.

All the projects listed below will surprise intruders more than harm them, but they make great deterrents. And if you’re really careful, they’re safe to construct.

Check them out:

Tripwires

A tripwire is a classic booby trap. It involves a wire that extends tautly across a pathway, like in between trees or a doorframe.

Folks usually use braided fishing lines for tripwires because they’re thin enough to be nearly invisible to the naked eye and they also won’t split when a person walks through them.

The line or wire is connected to an alarm that goes off as soon as someone activates the tripwire. There are several types of tripwires that use different alarm systems.

Here are some that you can make at home:

Mousetrap Tripwire

Believe it or not, mousetraps don’t only help you catch the mice that have been stealing your food.

With a mousetrap, a few ring caps, and a fishing line, you can make an effective tripwire alarm. This article shows you how.

Just watch your fingers when you’re working on it — the mousetrap might snap on them. A sturdy pair of gloves should provide you with the protection you need.

Tin Can Alarm

Who says you need a high-tech perimeter alarm to safeguard your territory?

With a few tin cans, paracord/fishing line, and some sticks, you can create one that’s loud enough to surprise intruders and alert you to their presence.

What you need to do is tie at least three tin cans together using a paracord or fishing line. Then, look for two trees that are close enough to one another. Use the paracord to secure a loop around their trunks.

There should be a space in between the trunks. This is where you should hang your cans. After that, you have to make a loose loop under the cans.

That’s all you need to create the alarm.

The next things to do include making the trigger using 3 different-sized sticks, determining your perimeter, and then setting up the trap. These steps are explained in further detail here.

Keychain Alarm Tripwire

If your DIY skills aren’t the greatest, this trap is for you. There are only two things you need: a keychain alarm (which you can easily find online) and a fishing line.

The keychain you pick should have a hole on the reverse side. This is where you tie the line that will attach it to a tree, a door, or a table leg.

Air Horn Tripwire

Hate how obnoxious an air horn sounds?

Well, so will intruders when it disrupts their sneaky infiltration into your property.

To whip up this trap, you’ll need to build a deadfall trap above your air horn.

Choose a flat rock and prop it up on some sticks. Let the trigger stick stay on top of the horn. The trigger stick should be attached to the line. Secure the other end of the line to a nearby tree.

When a trespasser’s leg gets caught on the tripwire, a domino effect happens…

The trigger stick will give out from beneath the rock.

The rock will fall on the horn.

The horn will make a deafening sound that wakes even the deepest sleepers.

The enemy will crap their pants in shock and try to make a run for it.

Pit Traps

There’s probably no booby trap more straightforward than a pit trap. It’s really just a big hole in the ground.

Before you dig the pit, look for a strategic location. Once you secure a spot, use an entrenching tool to do the digging. Keep shoveling until it’s deep enough to prevent an average-sized person from climbing their way out.

When you’re through making the pit, put a net on top of it and disguise it with leaves, rocks, and other debris.

Also, remember the exact place you excavated the trap. You don’t want to faceplant into a hole while you’re in the middle of trimming and pruning your plants.

Dye Device

In a bank robbery, you know how robbers give bank tellers their demands? They normally command them to shove hundreds of thousands of dollars in a bag.

The tellers may seem like they’re giving in to the robbers’ whims, but they actually have a trick up their sleeves — the dye pack. This nifty gizmo stains the cash a bright color, letting everyone know that it’s stolen.

You can take inspiration from the dye pack and apply it to your home defense.

Just fill an automatic spray bottle with semi-permanent dye. You can set this up as soon as you see folks trespassing on your property.

They won’t just get surprised; they’ll be so doused in dye that they’ll look like cheap knockoffs of the creatures from the Avatar movie.

Talking Booby Trap

Most thieves are on edge when they turn up at a mark’s home. They don’t wanna get caught.

So in the unlikely scenario that they breach past your defenses and enter your home, a talking booby trap can scare the living daylights out of them.

This little device involves recording a special message or sound effect meant for home invaders. You’re supposed to hide it somewhere clever, where the bad guys can activate it unknowingly.

Once the gizmo is triggered, they’ll hear the present you left for them loud and clear — they messed with the wrong home.

For complete instructions on how to make a talking booby trap, take a look at this article.

Final Thoughts

Booby traps make a perfect addition to a home defense plan — when you take the law, your family’s safety, and common sense into consideration.

Along with learning self-defense and making key security upgrades to your home, the booby traps we featured will help you win against the bad guys and keep your precious stockpile safe.

Just don’t be too obvious when you build these traps to avoid getting unwanted attention from the neighbors.

We hope you learned something from this! But if you wanna learn even more about home defense or making a foolproof SHTF plan, you should check out our other articles.

Meat Block

10 lb of Venison 2.5 lb of pork straight pork fat or 10 lb of untrimmed pork butts 1 Bag of Taco Snack Sticks 10.75 oz for 12.5 lb 1 oz of Sure Cure (Included with purchase) 14.1 grams for 12.5 lb Water (2 lb per 25 lb batch of meat) 16 oz of water for a 12.5 lb batch

OPTIONAL Additives 1 Bag of Sure Gel 3 oz for 12.5 lb Encapsulated Citric Acid 2 oz for 12.5 lb

Equipment

Walton’s 50 lb Meat Mixer Walton’s 11 lb Sausage Stuffer Walton’s #12 Meat Grinder

Casing Preparation

We are using 19mm Smoke Collagen Casings, which will fit easily over our 12mm stuffing tube. These casings require no preparation; simply take them out of the package and put them on the stuffing tube.

Process

This meat was already ground once through a 3/8 plate and frozen. We defrosted it and ground it again through a 1/8 plate. The fact that it was still partially frozen sped up the 2nd ground significantly. What would normally be a process of 10 minutes was finished in under 3.

Pork Fat –

If you are adding just pork fat to your meat block, you should add somewhere between 20-25% of the weight of your venison meat in fat. In this case, that meant we added 2.5 lb, and we added that while we were grinding, this allows it to start mixing in with the venison as it grinds. We also made sure the pork was almost frozen to help it grind faster and better.

Pork Butts –

If you are adding pork butts, make sure that they are untrimmed, meaning that they have a good fat cap on them and that the skin is removed from the pork butt. You will be able to tell if the skin is still on by looking for small hair follicles; if you see that, then the skin is still on, and you will need to trim that off while leaving as much fat as possible on the meat.

Meat Mixing

Next, you need to mix the seasoning and cure into your meat. To do this, you can either use a meat mixer or do it by hand. Because this is a product that we are going to cure and smoke, we need to achieve a high level of protein extraction, so doing this with your hands is difficult but can be done. When using a mixer, add the meat to the mixer, then the seasoning and cure, and finally, the water. You will want to mix in both directions until all seasoning and cure have been mixed in and you have good protein extraction. You will know that a good level of protein extraction has been achieved when the meat is sticky and tacky; if you can pull a handful of it apart and it stretches, that is a good sign.

Sausage Stuffing

Next, choose the largest stuffing tube that your casings will fit over and begin stuffing. Stuff until the casings are full and smooth but leave yourself enough room on the end to close with a hog ring.

If you can just faintly see a swirl pattern running down the casing, that means you have stuffed them correctly. If that pattern is obvious, then they are understuffed, which will lead to excessively wrinkled casings and an odd texture.

If you cannot see that pattern at all, then you have overstuffed the casings, and you run a risk of the casings popping when you hang them in the smokehouse.

Note

If you added Encapsulated Citric Acid or other cure accelerators, you need to go directly from stuffing to smoking. If you did not use a cure accelerator of some sort, then after you’ve stuffed everything, the product has to be held in the refrigerator overnight to allow the cure time to work.

Thermal Processing & Smoking

Set up your smoker and hang your sausage on smoke sticks or lay on racks and smoke at: 125F for 1 hour 140F for 1 hour 155F for 2 hours 175F until internal meat temp of 160F

When they have reached 160 internal temperature, remove them from the smoker and put them in an ice bath to bring the heat down and help set the casing.

A water bath is not sufficient for this; the water needs to be ice water or shower them with a fan pointed at the hanging sticks.

Cooling

Lastly, leave them out at room temperature for about an hour before vacuum packing them; this will ensure you don’t get additional moisture in the vacuum bag, which would affect the shelf life of your meats.

Wrap up

Adding pork fat instead of pork butts will give them a more distinct taste and color. The intensity of the difference will depend on the protein you are using; deer works well with pork fat, so the 50/50 mix of venison and untrimmed pork butts will work well, but with something like goose, you really want to find straight pork fat.

Other Notes

Depending on your pH and your Water Activity, your sticks might be shelf-stable, but without a way to test this, you should vacuum pack and refrigerate these, and since these are wild game, they wouldn’t be considered “shelf-stable” technically.

What Is A Snack Stick?

Snack Sticks are meat snacks and semi-dried sausages that are stuffed into smoked collagen casings and then hung in a smokehouse for cooking. Many Snack Sticks will have a pH between 4.5 and 5.2 to give them some shelf stability and the classic tangy flavor.

Shop waltonsinc.com for Bratwurst Seasoning

Shop waltonsinc.com for Meat Grinders

Shop waltonsinc.com for High-Temp Cheese

Shop waltonsinc.com for Boning Knives

Watch WaltonsTV: Wild Game – Venison Snack Sticks

Today I’m going to show you the best muzzleloader scope.

In fact:

I’ve hand-tested over 10 scopes alone for this review.

The best part?

I’ve sorted the scopes by use. So whether you’re on a budget or need the best muzzleloader scopes, you’ll find it here.

Let’s dive in!

How to Choose a Muzzleloader Scope

Optics can be a crazy expensive addition to your firearm.

But don’t just go throw any old scope on top of your boom stick.

There are considerations you need to make in your purchase, and you need to be more selective if you’re putting an optic on your muzzleloader.

Glass Clarity & Reticle

One of the most important aspects of choosing a scope is to consider the glass quality. You can only shoot as well as you can see. And if you can’t see well through your new optic, you wasted your money.

Higher end scopes from brands like Nikon and Leupold will have excellent glass with crystal clear picture clarity and color fidelity.

If you choose a more affordable scope, don’t cut corners on glass. Vortex Optics makes many scopes that fall in affordable price ranges while still having a wonderfully bright sight picture.

When choosing a scope, you want to pick one that lists having fully coated lenses. This means that all of the exterior lenses have a coating that increases light transmission to your eye-this will give you a bright sight picture.

Ideally, getting fully multi-coated lenses is best. This means that all of the lenses have many coatings that improve the light transmission and cut down on glare. You’ll get a clear and bright view through the optic. And the anti-glare coatings will prevent objective lens reflections that could give away your position.

The reticle you chose is up to you. You can choose to get a reticle that is hashed to account for bullet drop (BDC reticle) to help you estimate holdover for your shots. Some shooters prefer a clean and simple duplex crosshair. I’m not sure if an illuminated reticle is really beneficial for a muzzleloader, but if you want one, no one will stop you.

Eye Relief & Eye Box

As a muzzleloader shooter, eye relief is a spec that you can’t ignore like some centerfire riflists do.

If you have an eye relief that is shorter than 3 inches, your scope is going to scrape off your eyebrow when you shoot. That’s both painful and embarrassing.

Save yourself the trouble and get a longer eye relief scope with at least 4 inches.

You also want a generous eye box with room to adjust behind your optic and still get a good sight picture. The bigger your ocular lens is, the better this feature will be.

Durability

If a scope isn’t listed as being o-ring sealed. Pass on it. It’s worth spending your hard earned money on an o-ring sealed optic. This makes it rain and waterproof.

You also should look at getting a scope that is argon or nitrogen purged. This will not only help with light transmission but will keep your scope from fogging in crummy weather.

You don’t want a hunt ruined by less than ideal weather. Invest in a durable optic from the start.

Another special consideration for muzzleloaders is to make sure that the scope you choose is shockproof or recoil proof. Your firearm has harder recoil when you shoot compared to many centerfire rifles.

You will want a scope that can handle the extra kick.

Leupold boasts that all of its scopes must survive 5,000 rounds on the Punisher- a device that mimics recoil 3x stronger than a .308.

Vortex also makes nearly indistructive scopes that are a bit more budget friendly.

No matter which brand you choose, do your homework and sift through product reviews looking for durability or other shooters using it on a muzzleloader.

Elevation & Windage Knobs

Elevation and windage knobs, also called turrets, are what you use to make fine-tuning adjustments to your scope. You use these to zero your optic, or adjust it so that your shots actually land where you’re aiming.

The elevation turret will move your shot up and down. The windage turret will adjust your shot from left to right.

Ideally, you want turrets that have a tactile and audible click that you can hear and feel when making adjustments.

Getting locking turrets that can not be accidentally turned are a nice feature, but those will add to the cost. Less expensive optics will have capped turrets with screw on caps that cover both turrets.

Some brands will send you elevation turrets that are marked to compensate for bullet drop for your particular load upon request.

Parallax & Magnification

Centerfire rifle scopes often have the parallax fixed at 100-150 yards for centerfire rifles. That’s pushing the range for a muzzleloader, where parallax should be fixed to about 75 yards.

If you want to put a centerfire rifle scope on your muzzleloader, you need to take this into consideration.

Some more expensive scopes have a side parallax adjustment so you can lock it out for your shooting distance.

Some brands will factory adjust it for you if you send your new scope to them.

A muzzleloading rifle cannot fire shots that move as fast or as far as centerfire rounds. You will not be making shots from several hundred yards away from your prey, so don’t go crazy on magnification.

A high powered scope will hurt more than it helps because it will bring your target too close to you. If you take a high powered scope on your next deer hunt, all you’ll be able to see will be a big hairy patch on the animal’s hide-if you can even find the animal at all.

High powered scopes will have a narrow field of view too-which will make it harder for you to spot your target.

When looking at scopes, the magnification is the first set of numbers before the “x”, so 1-5×24 would be a scope with magnification powers that will make your target 1 to 5 times bigger than what you can see with your naked eye.

You don’t want anything higher than 5x.

Many muzzleloading minutemen prefer a 1-5x or even 1x, 2x, or 3x fixed magnification. For muzzleloading, smaller magnification is better.

The number after the “x” is the size of the objective lens (the lens at the end of the scope) in millimeters. A 1-5×24 scope has an objective lens that’s 24 mm in diameter.

You can look here for a list of the best 1-4x scopes.

Mounting & Rings

Because your muzzleloader kicks like a mule compared to many centerfire rifles, it will do a number on your scope and the equipment you use to attach it.

You want to be sure to use a solid mount (if you need an aftermarket one) and solid rings. You don’t want to cut corners on your mounting hardware.

Here’s a great video that will help you pick top notch mounting hardware:

Final Thoughts

You can easily pick a top-notch scope for your muzzleloader. You just need to keep a few key points in mind.

You want:

• Quality Glass
• Low magnification
• Highly durable scope design
• At least 4 inches of eye relief
• Heavy duty mounting hardware

With these 5 things in mind, you’ll be able to pick an optic-at any price range- that will fit your budget and your needs.

If you’re also looking for an ACOG, look here.

The 4 Best Muzzleloader Scope

If you’re pressed on time, here’s a quick list of the best muzzleloader scope:

1. Vortex Diamondback 1.75-5×32: Best Overall
2. Bushnell Banner 3-9×50: Best Muzzleloader Scope Under $100
3. Leupold VX-3i 3.5-10×40: Best Long Range Muzzleloader Scope
4. Simmons Truplex Prohunter 3-9×40: Best for the Budget

1. Vortex Diamondback 1.75-5×32: Best Overall

The Vortex Diamondback 1.75-5×32 is the best overall scope on the market, especially for hunters.

In fact, it’s got all the features and qualities that you could need at an affordable price that won’t break the bank.

I put this on my AR-15 to test it out months ago and have yet to take it off because it works so well.

Want to hear more? Keep reading…

Glass Clarity & Reticle

The first time I looked into this scope I was surprised to find the glass was just as clear as other scopes that are twice the price!

The lenses are fully multi-coated, which means you get a nice, bright sight picture, even in the midday sun.

The Dead-Hold BDC reticle is my favorite part of the Vortex Diamondback 1.75-5×32.

Having a bullet drop compensation reticle means that you’ll easily be able to estimate your holdover at varying distances, even as far out as 500 yards.

The reticle is second focal plane, which means that it doesn’t change size with magnification. With 1.75-5x magnification, this works great.

If you had a higher magnification to shoot at extra long distances, you might need the reticle to increase in size. But since I’m not using this scope for 3-gun competitions, my average prey is usually only around 100-300 yards.

Eye Relief & Eye Box

The Vortex Diamondback 1.75-5×32 has 3.5-3.7 inches of eye relief.

If I have one complaint about this scope, it’s that the eye relief does seem to be a little unforgiving, depending what you mount it on.

On my AR-15 it’s tolerable with a good cheek weld, but on something like 6.5 Creedmoor, it would be pretty tight.

However, I do really love that this scope has a fast focus eyepiece. This allows you to get the reticle focused quickly.

Target acquisition is fast and easy, almost as good as a prism scope or red dot sight.

Durability

This scope is built like a tank and can handle whatever you throw at it.

It’s a one-piece tube with a hard anodized finish that can take a beating. This finish also helps to keep your setup camouflaged when you’re out hunting.

Plus, it’s O-ring sealed and Argon purged, which makes it waterproof and fogproof.

If that’s not enough, it’s backed by Vortex’s unlimited lifetime warranty that covers anything that could go wrong.

Elevation & Windage Knobs

The elevation and windage turrets are ¼ MOA click adjustments.

The turrets give nice, audible clicks and have a zero reset under the caps.

Speaking of zeroing, it couldn’t be easier. After only a handful of shots, I was hitting a half inch target easily and exceptionally accurately.

And, after at least 400 rounds or so, the zero has held. I even accidentally dropped it on the gravel road and it was still dead on.

Parallax & Magnification

The Vortex Diamondback has 1.75-5x magnification.

This is the perfect range for brush hunting and big game hunting. It gives you an accurate sight picture from 100-500 yards easily.

For deer hunting, you’ll be hard pressed to find a scope that’s better than this one.

As for parallax, it’s fixed at 100 yards and I really haven’t noticed a problem.

Mounting & Rings

This scope is an excellent value, but you will need to buy your own mount.

I’d recommend getting Vortex Pro Series Rings. That’s what I used and they’re great.

As for other accessories, it doesn’t come with much. Just removable lens caps. I’d suggest getting some flip-up caps like the Vortex Optics Defender Flip Caps.

Is the Vortex Diamondback 1.75-5×32 worth it?

This scope is really the best overall scope for hunters, with all the features you need.

It has:

• Audible click turrets
• Fast focus eyepiece
• 1.75-5x magnification
• Dead-Hold BDC reticle
• Fully multi-coated lenses
• Shockproof, waterproof, fogproof

If you’re an avid hunter and want a scope that has all the features you’ll need to bag your prey, try the Vortex Diamondback 1.75-5×32. You won’t be disappointed.

2. Bushnell Banner 3-9×50: Best Muzzleloader Scope Under $100

The Bushnell Banner 3-9×50 is by far the most elite budget friendly muzzleloader scope I have found throughout my hunting career.

Not only does the scope come in at an amazing price, but the quality and attention to detail is apparent.

If you want to learn why this scope hasn’t come off my muzzleloader setup since the day I purchased it stick around.

Glass Clarity & Reticle

The Bushnell Banner 3-9×50 is a scope with unbelievable brightness and glass clarity.

Even with the impressively low price, Bushnell did not sacrifice any quality with the building of this scope.

The dusk and dawn brightness multi coated lens provides amazing improvements to both the clarity and brightness of the scope.

In addition, the scope has a fast-focus eyepiece that makes target acquisition even easier.

The Bushnell Banner 3-9×50 gives me great confidence whether I am out for a day on the range or sitting in a tree stand during muzzleloader season.

The reticle that comes on the Bushnell Banner 3-9×50 is the multi-x reticle.

This was my first experience with this particular reticle and I am really enjoying it so far. I tend to be slightly picky about my reticle and this one has fit my shooting style unbelievably well.

This scope was an absolute dream addition to my muzzleloader setup.

Not being my main form of hunting, I try to keep my muzzleloader setup on a tight budget and the Bushnell Banner 3-9×50 fit right into that.

Eye Relief & Eye Box

The eye relief on the Bushnell Banner 3-9×50 is very forgiving and a great option for any setup.

I have found that with the forgiving eye relief, the sight can be mounted in a comfortable position on any firearm.

I have used this primarily on my slug shotgun setup and muzzleloader setup.

It would also work great on any other rimfire options.

In addition, the scope has a fantastic field of view which makes this a great option for any hunting setup.

The Bushnell Banner 3-9×50 has got to be one of the best budget muzzleloader scopes I have used.

Also, here are some great options if you are looking for a handgun scope for those long muzzleloader hikes.

Durability

The durability so far on the Bushnell Banner 3-9×50 has been fantastic.

My muzzleloader definitely takes the stress of long hikes and some crazy weather. This scope has seen it all and continues to perform like I just took it out of the box.

The Bushnell Banner 3-9×50 is waterproof, fogproof, shockproof, and dry-nitrogen filled.

This scope has taken a beating and keeps on going. Especially in my muzzleloader setup, I need a scope that works 100% of the time no questions asked.

Elevation & Windage Knobs

The elevation and windage knobs have performed surprisingly well for the low price tag this scope comes in at.

Usually on budget scopes I find the turrets are often mushy and inconsistent.

This is not the case with the Bushnell Banner 3-9×50. The turrets have been precise and accountable every time I have used them.

They have well defined movement and sound that makes it a satisfactory scope to zero.

My zeroing process was surprisingly easy. I took the scope directly out to the range right after I got it.

In maybe 30 minutes I was able to achieve some of my best muzzleloader groupings at 100 yards.

In addition, I have rarely had to touch the turrets since I zerod for the first time.

This tells me that the zero holds fantastically well on the Bushnell Banner 3-9×50.

Parallax & Magnification

I have been using the Bushnell Banner 3-9×50 for a few months and have noticed a slight parallax as I get higher in magnification.

It is nothing excessive and certainly doesn’t hinder my shooting abilities; however, it is something that I noticed throughout my testing.

The Bushnell Banner 3-9×50 has a magnification of 3x to 9x which is perfect for my usage.

This being on my muzzleloader setup means that it is not often I am taking shots beyond 100 yards.

9x is far more magnification than is needed for a shot at that range, but it is certainly nice to have when the heart is racing and the hands are sweating.

Mounting & Rings

The Bushnell Banner 3-9×50 did not come with mounts so I purchased a set of Warne 1inch Quick Detach Rings in a Low Matte finish.

I ended up going for the quick detach mounts because I thought I was going to be swapping it out on my slug setup.

This was not the case and I can’t seem to take it off my muzzleloader because I like that setup so much.

I would also recommend getting Monstrum Rubberized Flip-Up Lens Covers (Objective Lens: 37-42mm).

These have been some of my favorite flip up lenses I have found to date.

Is the Bushnell Banner 3-9×50 worth it?

I am very cautious about spending money on budget scopes because I am unsure how long they will last me. The Bushnell Banner 3-9×50 has put all of my worries to bed and has become my favorite muzzleloader scope in my entire arsenal.

Here’s why:

• Price
• Clarity
• Durability

In short: the Bushnell Banner 3-9×50 is a fantastic scope that will outperform scopes that cost over double the price.

If you are still unsure whether the Bushnell Banner 3-9×50 is the right scope for you, give it a try. I am sure you will be just as thrilled as I am.

3. Leupold VX-3i 3.5-10×40: Best Long Range Muzzleloader Scope

For the true muzzleloader fan, a high quality scope is a must.

Whether hunting or target shooting, accuracy with a muzzleloader can be tough.

The Leupold VX-3i can remove one part of that difficulty.

Glass Clarity & Reticle

The glass is some of the finest I’ve seen on a rifle scope.

A military-grade coating called DiamondCoat 2 is the reason. It allows maximum light transmission while being very scratch resistant. The lenses are built for life.

The DiamondCoat 2 also lets all colors of light in, so there is no tinting whatsoever, and it shows when you have a big buck sighted near twilight. The only thing brighter is night vision.

The duplex reticle is pretty plain, but for a muzzleloader it isn’t a big issue. You aren’t going to be taking game at 300 yards. It’s perfect for a muzzleloading application and many others.

Eye Relief & Eye Box

I’ve found the scope to be very comfortable on top of my modern front stuffer, then I found the reason.

Even at maximum magnification, the spec sheet on the Leupold boasts 3.6 inches of eye relief. It’s even greater at 3.5x power, a whopping inches. I could mount this thing on my shotty and fire 3.5 inch shells without worry of scope bite, much less the kick from any black powder rifle out there.

That said, you won’t need to adjust anything on your rifle’s mounting location to plop this guy on. It’ll work fine for pretty much every rifle out there on a standard rail.

Durability

Leupolds are tough. I’ve owned several over the years and this is one area where they never cut corners.

They have a special scope torture device at their lab, called the Punisher. This machine bangs the test design 5000 times with three times the force of a .308, and any design that doesn’t pass gets sent back to the drawing board.

It’s one of the main things I love about this brand. They are simply the toughest scopes out there, and the new DiamondCoat 2 coating adds another layer of military-grade durability to the lenses themselves.

They’re also waterproof to 33 feet and have a special proprietary gas blend inside to keep moisture out. They won’t fog or falter, even at 40 below.

Elevation & Windage Knobs

Super reliable turrets, but what else would you expect?

The clicks are firm and precise, which makes zeroing the scope a breeze.

It won’t be too often on your muzzleloader that windage and drop will be an issue, but if you do want to take a long shot, you know the drop on a lead ball can be tremendous.

Being able to click down for some skill shots to impress your friends is important, and the scope has an adjustment range of 52 MOA. It’ll give you the adjustment you need for any range you would ever want to shoot your muzzleloader.

Parallax & Magnification

Magnification ranges from 3.5 to 10, and adjusts easily with the smooth turning dial.

The adjustment is perfect for a muzzleloader scope. At 3.5x, you have a wide enough field of view to hunt accurately while still getting a huge boost in the accuracy of your shots, and 10x makes even the tiniest targets at 100 yards big enough to see.

10x is also a great magnification for testing the accuracy of your loads. We put so much effort into weighing bullets, picking the right wadding, carefully measuring powder, and greasing with the right lube, that it’s nice to see how reliable all that work really is at the range.

If there was a complaint about this scope, it would be that the parallax is non-adjustable. It’s set at 150 yards with Leupold. But again, for hunting or target shooting, the scope is still going to be tighter than most muzzleloader groups.

Plus cheek rest is a skill, and most of use wouldn’t be shooting black powder if we didn’t like a challenge.

If you won’t need the high magnification, of course, you might consider something designed for a battle rifle.

Mounting & Rings

No rings are included with the scope, and while any ole one-inch rings will do the trick, you are pairing a rugged muzzleloader to a rugged scope. Prudence dictates using something sturdy to do it, like Leupold Permanent Weaver-Style Cross-Slot rings.

Leupold also makes lens covers to work with their VX-3 line.

Is the Leupold VX-3i 3.5-10×40 worth it?

If you are looking for a budget scope, this probably isn’t it. That said, one feature of the VX-3i is that it was designed to be a bit more wallet friendly than some other Leupold scopes.

If you want the absolute best value in a quality scope for your muzzleloader, this is the one.

Let’s recap.

• Crystal clear view
• Military-grade coatings
• Tremendously long eye-relief
• Passed Leupold’s torture testing
• Great magnification range for muzzleloaders

And it comes with the best lifetime guarantee in the world of shooting.

Really, you can’t go wrong with the Leupold VX-3i 3.5-10×40 scope. It’s the obvious choice.

4. Simmons Truplex Prohunter 3-9×40: Best for the Budget

The Simmons Truplex Prohunter 3-9×40 is a versatile scope and great quality for the price.

In fact, it’s less than half the cost of other brands and has most of the same features and qualities.

I am an avid hunter and use this scope regularly on my trips.

Want to know why? Keep reading…

Glass Clarity & Reticle

With this scope you’ll get a sharp, bright image.

The glass is high quality and the scope has multi-coated lenses to cut down on glare and give you a crystal clear sight picture.

And what about the reticle?

The Simmons Truplex Prohunter 3-9×40 has a Truplex reticle, as it says in the name. What that means is that the edge of the posts are thicker and then the crosshairs thin out towards the center.

This makes it much easier to target in low light and thicker background brush. It also makes target acquisition super quick and easy.

Eye Relief & Eye Box

You’ll get 3.75 inches of eye relief with this scope.

That’s pretty great compared to most similar scopes. And it means you won’t have to worry about how much your rifle kicks.

Plus, the Simmons Truplex Prohunter 3-9×40 has Quick Target Acquistion (QTA) eyepiece. This, along with the Truplex reticle, makes target acquisition incredibly fast. And easily comparable to something like a red dot sight.

Durability

Even though this scope is extremely affordable compared to most, Simmons didn’t stinge on the materials or features.

It is O-ring sealed, making it completely waterproof. And, it has a nitrogen purged housing too. So you don’t have to worry about your optic fogging up.

It’s also recoilproof and can handle whatever caliber rifle you want to put this scope on.

From personal experience, I can tell you that the Simmons customer service is excellent. So, even if you have a problem, you can rest assured they’ll take care of you.

And Simmons makes a lot of other products too, including scope for air rifles. Which means if you love the Truplex reticle, you can get it in different types of scopes.

Elevation & Windage Knobs

The elevation and windage turrets are easy to adjust and give you ¼ MOA adjustment clicks.

This scope has the TrueZero elevation and windage adjustment system, which gives you a locked in zero.

And speaking of zeroing, it only took me about 15 minutes, if that, to get this scope set.

The TrueZero system helps the scope hold zero extremely well. I’ve taken mine hunting many times and never had to readjust.

Parallax & Magnification

You’ll get a lot of versatility with this scope because it has a variable magnification of 3-9x.

With that range, you can shoot accurately from around 100 yard out to about 900 max.

Which makes this scope the perfect attachment for your hunting rifle. I use it mainly for varmint hunting, but feel confident I could take bigger game at greater distances with this scope.

It’s also great for just target plinking and is a lot of fun to use for shooting at the range.

Plus, the parallax is fixed at 100 yards and I haven’t had any noticeable issues with it.

Mounting & Rings

The downside to this scope is that it doesn’t come with a mount.

But, when you’re buying a scope at such a great price, you can’t expect to get too many accessories.

I went with AccuShot Picatinny/Weaver Medium Profile 2-piece 1-inch Rings for mine.

It does come with lens caps, but they’re not flip up. You just put them on when you’re not using the scope. If you want flip up covers, these Monstrum Rubberized Covers work pretty well.

Is the Simmons Truplex Prohunter 3-9×40 worth it?

This scope is the perfect choice for any avid hunter.

It has:

• Clear Glass
• Truplex reticle
• Unbeatable price
• TrueZero System
• 3-9x variable magnification

If you’re looking for the best quality scope that’s budget friendly, try the Simmons Truplex Prohunter 3-9×40. You’ll be happy you did.

Now It’s Your Turn

I hope you enjoyed my best muzzleloader scopeguide.

Now I want to turn it over to you:

Which scope will you pick for your rifle?

Let me know by leaving a quick comment down below.

Mark Kayser

Shed Hunting Tips the Western Way

Hunting for whitetail shed antlers dominates the antler scene, but like dreaming about a western elk hunt, shed antler fanatics consider hunting for elk and mule deer shed antlers a bucket-list adventure. Hunting for elk and mule deer sheds is a surefire way to enjoy western scenery in a personal manner, and possibly pick up more bone than you ever imagined. Even so, elk and mule deer country can be harsh and testing so plan accordingly. Start your planning by scheduling for the right time of year.

When Do Elk and Mule Deer Drop Their Antlers?

Like whitetail deer, elk and mule deer shed their antlers via a combination of factors. Genetics drives antler shedding to a specific date, but a male’s use of testosterone also factors into the equation. The more testosterone a male uses during the rut, the more likely it is to drop earlier. Stress, particularly from winter and predation, influences animals to drop their antlers earlier than normal, especially under severe conditions.

The two species shed their antlers in a different time frame. Mule deer shed their antlers from January into March. Elk, on the other hand, begin shedding their antlers in March through April, although it can occur as early as mid-February.

It’s really up to Mother Nature when the antler drop occurs, but if you’re lucky occasionally both antlers drop near one another, deer and elk. With large bull elk the phenomena seems more commonplace. It’s possibly due to the heavier weight of an elk antler and the lopsided feeling that comes from carrying just one antler. If you do find a single, large elk or mule deer antler, spend a few extra minutes gridding the area. The other side is likely close.

Shortcuts for Western Shed Hunters

Despite a shedding time frame that doesn’t overlap, you can still slate a trip later in spring and look for antlers from both species. Depending on the area you target, oftentimes you’ll find mule deer antlers one level below where you’ll find elk antlers. It’s possible they’ll winter up to 1,000 feet lower in elevation depending on the winter range.

Don’t let the elevation factor scare you away. Although elk and mule deer definitely look for elevated hideouts when seeking winter refuge, they also gravitate toward large mesas, and sagebrush basins. Research regions characterized by minimal snow and feeding areas for the animals. State game and fish agencies even manage these areas realizing that the ungulates visit them annually. Many of these areas have been allotted refuge status with no human access until spring arrives. Most have a posted opening date that attracts local and visiting shed hunters alike. It’s the chance at a grand Easter egg hunt in antler style when the opening date arrives. State game managers are also helpful in pointing out other winter preferences for elk and mule deer if you wish to avoid a Boston Marathon shed antler hunt.

The best advice for any Western shed antler hunter is to spend wisely on good optics. It’s amazing how many antlers you can discover simply by looking down slopes or across canyons. Focus on white objects and partial tips protruding from brush or grass. My favorite optic to carry is the Nikon Monarch HG10x42 with enough power to pick apart the landscape when looking for antlers.

Next, make sure you’re in shape. My average day is a 12-mile round trip hike. Half is straight up and most is side-slope navigation. Sturdy, leather hiking boots and a hiking staff is a must. I trust my Cabela’s Meindl Perfekt boots to get me in and out. You also need to outfit yourself with a durable and comfortable pack. It needs enough room for water, lunch, rain gear, survival gear and first aid. It should also have ample areas to lash antlers.

To speed up your antler discoveries begin by following big game trails. Both elk and deer use trails to navigate to winter forage. Although either species has no aversion to pioneering a new route, the path of least resistance does have appeal and trails are carved into mountain sides from eons of use.

These trails undoubtedly lead to open areas for feed, but don’t overlook where the trail disappears into timber. Elk and mule deer spend more time on south-facing slopes, but they have to traverse north-facing slopes to get to any new, windswept, south-facing food stash. North-facing slopes vary from dark timber to juniper-jammed terrain. In most northern latitudes, north-facing slopes are always defined by deep snow. Again, follow the path of least resistance and look for any antlers dropped along the route.

As you negotiate winter range, you’ll obviously encounter geographic features such as steep canyons and gorges. Avoid them if the ascent looks dangerous, but steep topography and ravines cause jarring and jolting, both of which can make an animal drop an antler in an abyss. Lace up, slide down and cover more ground for a look if you deem it safe.

Lastly, you may need to put your binoculars aside and snoop like on whitetail properties for shed antlers thick vegetation. Sagebrush, mountain mahogany, scrub oak, thick junipers and even stands of cholla cactus could hide elk and mule deer antlers. They create micro environments to shield from winter winds, plus supply food sources.

Sell Your Shed Antlers

Finding antlers can pay off. Antler prices have risen in recent years. The antler market fluctuates like the Dow Jones Industrials, but artisans, dog-chew companies, collectors and others purchase antlers on a regular basis. Deer antler prices have been fluctuating between $8 and $12 per pound in recent years. Elk antlers could fetch you anywhere from $12 to $15 per pound. That’s appealing since a big elk antler may weigh nine pounds netting you more than $120 for just one antler.

Even with the possibility of a paycheck at the end of a shed antler hunt, the reward for a western adventure far outweighs cash. Picking up a shiny, six-point elk antler while you overlook a scene from the opening of a John Wayne movie is the true reward.

The Sabiki rig is a cutting edge fishing technique that was first used for baitfish angling in Asia. Sabiki rigs have grown to be known as flasher rigs by a great section of the fishing community. They are the absolute fishing tackle and are now employed all over the world.

The rig consists of flies with a branch line fastened to the hook. The hook has a flattened end resembling a spade that reflects light and makes the fly even more visible to the fish.

The fly is attached to the mainline by a stiff monofilament that we shall refer to as the branch line. It is stiff so that the branch will hang out away from the mainline to make the assembly appear natural. This also reduces collision among the baitfish, increasing the chances of biting.

It also reduces the chances of tangling up the mainline. If you are patient enough, you even end up with bites on all 6 or 8 hooks.

If you feel like this assembly is too much to keep up with, you will be pleased to know that you are not alone, so did most of us at the beginning. We were overjoyed to learn that most Sabiki rigs come already assembled and are easy to unpack.

How to Use a Sabiki Rig

Due to the make-up of a Sabiki rig, it offers a ton of opportunity and triggers fish to fiercely fight for the food! The features make the Sabiki rig great but it also comes with a different set of skills and you should know how to us it properly before getting started. The main thing to keep in mind when using a Sabiki rig is to not jig or rip too hard or too quickly – in other words, when you feel a bite, don’t jig immediately as you would with a normal hook.

Instead, let more fish fill the other hooks for a few seconds after feeling the first bite. This may be tough because every fishers natural reaction is to rip up instantly as soon as they feel a bite. The harsh ripping motion will cause other fish around the hook to flee and you’ll miss your chance to snag multiple baitfish. Remember: they travel in large groups so if you feel one bite, then you’ll most likely get others a few seconds after.

Fishing with a friend can also be helpful because, as we mentioned above, the Sabiki rig will hook you multiple fish, which means it’s a two-person job to bring those in. Make sure to move carefully and strategically, especially when you’re unhooking your fish. The last thing you want is to injure yourself or the cause unnecessary harm to the fish.

Depending on where you are, adding some extra chum to the hook will help, especially if you’re not getting enough bites. Use small pieces of shrimp or other baitfish – using store bough frozen shrimp and thawing it out works just fine.

This not only increases your changes of hooking a fish, but also increases the size of the fish. Like we mentioned, baitfish travel in large schools and the competition is fierce – if you create an environment that’s more competitive, then you’ll likely get the bigger fish.

What to Look for When Getting a Sabiki Rig

The Sabiki rig provides the best platform for bait fishing and keeping the bait alive as it allows you to catch multiple bait in one cast. You need to maximize the returns by ensuring you get the right one for your specific type of baitfish and the prevailing conditions.

It is designed for light fishing, but since these bait are for larger sport fish, you should be prepared for a few surprises once in a while as you are not the only hunter.

Below are some of the basic items you should consider for your ideal Sabiki rig.

Colors

There are various considerations you should balance between:

• The depth of the targeted structure
• How sunny is the day?
• Distance from the coastal waters
• How cloudy is the water?
• Your target species

As you go deeper, lighter colors lose their visibility while darker colors become more distinguishable. Water absorbs the sharpness of bright colors in what is called the scatter effect.

Fish have an evolutionary advantage with vision underwater and can see better than us the deeper we go. The darker colors become more metallic and vibrant to the fish the lower we drop, so they will just as easily attract your target species.

These variances are why flasher rigs will sometimes use contrasting coloring or paired colors to have an advantage in all scenarios.

If you do shallow water casting, you need not worry about these differences as what you see is not much different from what the fish see.

Hook Size

If the hook is too small, it will not snare the fish after the bite, and if it is too large, the fish won’t be able to bite in the first place.

Depending on the type of fish, expert anglers usually carry two close sizes so that if one is not working, they can switch to the other. This doesn’t take away the importance of determining the right hook size before you set out.

Type of Fish

Thin lines, hooks, and lures may work for small fish like the bluegill or perch but will not hold up against bigger fish. Once in a while, you attract more than the intended baitfish.

Durability

You should examine the composition of the Sabiki rig before you commit. Materials like high carbon steel for the hooks and fluorocarbon filament for the mainline and the branches are sufficient to put your mind at ease. They have both been enhanced to be tough enough for the water and to resist wear and tear.

Strength

Consider the test of both the mainline and the branch against the kind of fish you are targeting and the number of hooks on the Sabiki.

The larger the fish and the more the hooks, the stronger the line needs to be. The tensile strength is often indicated on the package as the test.

Sabiki Rigs You May Want To Sample

Why the Hayabusa Mix Flasher Sabiki Hot Hook Stands out

This Sabiki rig has been hailed by many experienced bait fishermen to be one of the best gems ever to be dispatched from the Hayabusa kitchen. It enables you to catch live minnows as it ensures you have ample opportunity to keep them alive for their intended purpose. There are various reasons for this consensus.

Reputation of the Manufacturer

Hayabusa is one of the most lauded brand names in terms of fishhook making. They have perfected the art over many years of innovation and the quest to stay relevant to current needs. Their products are working, and they have earned their loyalty.

Durability

Modern technology has been employed in ancient knowledge to produce some of the finest hooks that are easy to use but are tough against extreme conditions. Carbonated steel can withstand any punishment the water will throw at it, so the hooks will hold. The monofilament line used as the mainline and branches is fluorocarbon-based, making it not only tough but strong enough to carry the weight of the fish over and over without letting up.

Opportunities for Variation

You can catch fish without bait on the hooks, but it is more effective to put decent baits on them. The shiny metal pieces that are constant in most Sabiki rigs are sufficient to trigger a bite from a baitfish.

They go a step further and introduce enhancements for these lures in various forms such as flashy colored flies, wings laced with fish oil, synthetic fish skin, and even actual fish skin.

This makes the baitfish go wild, but Hayabusa had already anticipated this, and the rigs have different variations of multiple hooks to reel in as many as you possibly can. This is the ultimate baitfish machine.

Dual purpose chickens are bred for both egg production and meat. It may sound perfect but there is a trade off.

If you’re new to chickens and you’ve been perusing the catalogs planning your new chick order you might have come across the term ‘dual-purpose chicken’ and been confused or intrigued.

We all know chickens have more than two purposes but we’re going to ignore the lawn ornaments and exhibition breeds.

Egg Laying Chickens

All hens will lay eggs if they stay out of the freezer long enough but there are certain chickens bred specifically for laying eggs.

Egg laying breeds tend to have a slighter build, they put most of their energy into laying eggs, not bulking up. They are also less likely to go broody, when hens sit on eggs they stop laying and won’t start back up until they are done with their chicks.

The best layers in terms of numbers are going to the be hybrid layers. The egg-laying hybrid chicken breeds include Golden Comets and Cinnamon Queens. Both breeds can lay up to 320 eggs in their first year laying.

I have raised a few hybrid layers years ago and they were nice enough birds but they tend to burn out quickly and they were the only birds I’ve ever lost to ascites or waterbelly.

Some people keep the hybrid layers for a few years and then when they stop laying they cull them all and turn them into broth and soup. They don’t have a lot of meat but they still have that chicken-y flavor.

Easter Eggers, or the chickens that lay blue and green eggs, are hybrids but unlike the other birds I mentioned they weren’t developed for extreme egg production.

They are on the slight side and probably wouldn’t be worth dragging out the scalding pot. They can lay 200-280 eggs a year.

If you’d prefer to skip the hybrids you’ll be happy to know there are some common chicken breeds that will lay almost as many eggs as the hybrid ladies. White & Brown Leghorns can lay up to 300 white eggs per year and Rhode Island Reds can lay up to 280 brown eggs (these guys are dual purpose by the way!).

Popular Egg Laying breeds include:

• White & Brown Leghorn (220-300 white eggs/year)
• Easter Egger (200-280 blue/green eggs/year)
• Red Jungle Fowl (250-300 cream eggs/year)
• Cream Legbar (180-200 blue eggs/year)
• Appenzeller Spitzhauben (150 white eggs/year)

Meat Chickens

If eggs aren’t your thing and you just want some birds for the table meat birds are for you. Just like with the egg layers, if you want to maximize the return on your investment you want to look for Cornish Crosses.

Cornish cross are hybrid meat chickens that reach butchering size at 6 weeks. You need to be on your game with them too, you don’t want to keep these birds alive much longer than 10 weeks.

When I was growing up my grandparents raised Cornish crosses and compared to the laying flock they had it was like dealing with two different species.

Cornish crosses will eat themselves to death, grow so large they break their own legs, and drop dead from heart attacks. It probably goes without saying that Cornish Cross are not the birds you want if you’re looking for a flock of layers.

When I raised meat chickens I skipped over the Cornish crosses and went with Freedom Rangers. They grow slightly slower than the CC but still faster than the dual-purpose types.

Freedom Rangers are meat birds but they were developed to be heartier than the CC and will do better on a range or pasture.

Popular Meat breeds include:

• Jumbo Cornish Cross
• Freedom Ranger
• Dark Cornish

Dual Purpose Chickens

So you’ve got super layers and quick-growing meat birds, and right in the middle you’ve got the dual-purpose chickens. They lay more eggs than a meat bird (a lot more) and carry more weight than a layer.

It probably won’t surprise you to know that most of the classic barnyard chicken breeds like Buff Orpingtons and Barred Rocks are dual-purpose.

They are popular for a reason. Dual purpose birds are the classic farm bird that does everything, they do well free ranging, they are good at foraging, they lay lots of eggs and they hold enough meat on their bones to make it worth butchering.

A lot of the heritage breeds are considered dual purpose. These birds tend to be thiccc and hardy. They carry quite a bit more weight than a layer and tend to be good winter layers.

If you’re looking for a self-sustaining flock a dual purpose breed is a good choice. Broodiness has been bred out of many of the production layers but dual purpose hens tend to retain that habit.

Popular Dual Purpose breeds include:

• Barred & White Rock (200-280 brown eggs/year)
• Black Australorp (200-280 brown eggs/year)
• Buff Orpington (200-280 brown eggs/year)
• Buckeye (180-260 brown eggs/year)
• Dominique (180-260 brown eggs/year)
• Jersey Giant (180-260 brown eggs/year)
• Wyandottes (180-260 brown eggs/year)
• Light Brahma (180-240 brown eggs/year)
• Speckled Sussex (180-240 light brown eggs/year)
• Marans (180+ dark brown eggs/year)
• Standard Cochin (110-160 brown eggs/year)

Raising Dual Purpose Chickens for Eggs

When they aren’t going broody dual purpose chickens can be really good layers. They lay less frequently that the hybrid layers but they also lay for a longer time.

Rhode Island Reds/White and Barred Rocks will lay up to 280 eggs/year, Jersey Giants, Wyandottes and Buckeyes will lay up to 260 eggs/year, and Marans and Barnavelders will lay up to 200 eggs/year.

Dual purpose chickens are also known for being good winter layers. Bigger birds handle the cold weather easier and are able to put more energy into laying versus just surviving.

I keep lights in my coop so my poor New York birds don’t spend 18 hours a day in darkness but I still notice when the days start to get longer in January and February just based on my egg basket.

Most of my birds lay light brown eggs but during the coldest months I notice a larger proportion of dark brown eggs (coming from my Marans & Welsummers) and green eggs from my olive eggers. None of my white egg layers are dual purpose and I rarely get a white egg in the winter!

Read more about Picking Chickens for Rainbow Eggs

Raising Dual Purpose Chickens for Meat

You can buy or hatch out a batch of chicks and keep the hens for eggs and process the roosters after 6-9 months. Most hatcheries will sell male chicks for a low price just to get rid of them.

If you have the space to run a few dozen cockerels on pasture for a few months it’s not a bad way to fill the freezer. Dual purpose roosters will usually reach 6 pounds around 4.5 months.

Do you Need a Rooster in Your Flock? Find out

You will have plenty of time to get them processed before the hormones kick in and they turn into jerks. Deadlines aren’t as much of an issue with these guys because they grow so much slower than the Cornish Crosses.

Some dual purpose chicken breeds will get pretty big, like my favorites, the Brahmas. Brahma cockerels (male chickens less than one-year-old) can reach up to ten pounds and the roosters can hit 12 pounds.

Dual purpose breeds will look different on the table than the standard chickens you’re used to. One of the biggest differences is lack of giant breast meat, they will have large frames (more bones for stock!) and less meat over all. They also have more flavor and the meat won’t be quite as tender.

Crock pots are a great way to cook dual purpose birds, the slow cooking help relax and tenderize the meat. And don’t forget Coq Au Vin! The braised chicken dish is traditionally made with an old rooster.

Looking for more info? Check out my Chicken Keeping page or start here:

You’ve likely heard of a morel mushroom, but what’s the deal with the “fake” one? And, why does it matter? If you’re new to morel foraging, you’ll want to fully understand all the look-alikes. And, sadly, there isn’t just one. There’s actually several morel look-alikes that are called false morels.

Jump to:

• What Is A False Morel?
• False Morel Mushroom Facts
• How to Identify the False Morel Mushroom
• A False Morel Quiz:
• Be Safe
• Who’s Eating These Mushrooms….and Why?

What Is A False Morel?

The term “false morel” encompasses a number of different species including Gyromitra esculenta (the beefsteak mushroom), Gyromitra caroliniana, and others in the Verpa and Helvella genera. They are often mistaken for the edible delicacies in the Morchella genus (true morels).

The false morels include some poisonous mushrooms that contain the chemical monomethyl hydrazine (MMH). MMH causes vomiting, dizziness, diarrhea, and sometimes death. Furthermore, MMH is suspected to be carcinogenic. (Read more and, here)

“But wait,” you ask, “haven’t I heard of people eating these mushrooms with no ill effect?”

You probably have. Many people have eaten them and even hunt for them specifically. It may surprise you that Gyromitra esculenta is considered a delicacy in parts of the United States and in parts of Scandinavia. You can buy them in Finland, where they come with preparation instructions.

So what’s the problem? One danger is the varying levels of MMH in different gyromitra mushrooms. Some species contain very little, others contain enough to kill. MMH levels also vary among geographic regions within a single species. Nobody knows how toxic any false morel will be in any location.

Let’s learn more about the fake morel. We’ll start with some facts, move on to identification, and finally take a look at who eats these mushrooms. For a more complete list of straight morel mushroom hunting tips click here.

False Morel Mushroom Facts

• Most gyromitra appear in the spring and summer and grow directly on the ground. Although some are found on wood or later in the year, they are unlikely to be mistaken for true morels.
• Caps are usually brown or reddish-brown and occasionally yellow. Most stems are a light color, ranging from white to tan.
• These mushrooms are considered saprotrophs, meaning they feed on dead and decaying organic matter. Some have suggested that they may be mycorrhizal as well (forming a symbiotic relationship with trees).
• Like true morels, false ones are often found in areas where the forest floor has been disrupted. You’re more likely to see them near washes, rivulets, man-made disturbances in the ground, and roadsides.
• Some species that are considered false are Gyromitra esculenta, Gyromitra caroliniana (above), Gyromitra infula, Verpa bohemica, and Verpa conica.
• There are many common names associated with the more commonly foraged false morels, including beefsteaks and calf’s brain. Beefsteak is also the common name for another edible mushroom, which is VERY confusing. Common names are tricky,; be sure you are firm on your identifications and understanding!

How to Identify the False Morel Mushroom

So how do you tell a true morel from a false one? Observe the following:

• Make note of the cap shape. The false caps that are “wavy” or “lobed”. They appear to be bulging outwards. True morels have a more uniformly shaped cap with pits or ridges. The true morel cap looks like honeycomb with pits angled inwards rather than bulging.
• The cap of the false mushroom hangs freely from the stem. A true morel has a cap that will be attached to the stem. This is not always the case but more often than not it is.
• If you slice an edible morel open from top to bottom it will be hollow inside. A non-edible one will usually be filled with wispy cotton-like fibers or chunks of tissue. (Fabulous example of this on the right).

Go here for a more in-depth article, including a handy chart, on how to tell a true morel mushroom from a false morel.

Always consult a local expert if you’re inexperienced or uncertain. Never eat a mushroom-based solely on mushroom pictures that you’ve seen on the Internet! This goes for ALL mushrooms, not just morels or false morels.

If you feel sick or dizzy after eating what you thought was an edible morel, seek help immediately!

Who’s Eating These Mushrooms….and Why?

The picture at the right shows false morels for sale at a market in Helsinki, Finland. People in other parts of Europe and parts of the United States eat them as well. They often come with warnings and preparation instructions.

While some false morels are prepared simply, others must be boiled 2-3 times to remove toxins before they are safe to eat. Through boiling, the toxins are reduced and the mushrooms become edible. This practice of double (or triple) boiling has been used for centuries to make the mushroom safe to eat.

However, studies show that MMH is a cumulative toxin. This means that its levels will build up in your body after repeated consumption. This could lead to illness or even death. Please, keep that in mind before eating. It may be that there isn’t much of a danger since rarely is a person eating enough of these mushrooms to cause extreme danger, but it’s possible. More studies need to be done with humans first.

Plenty of people eat these for years with no problems. But do you want to risk it? Personally, since no one knows exactly how toxic any given mushroom will be, we think it’s best to just avoid them altogether.

Many gyromitra enthusiasts will disagree, and that’s fine. We always err on the side of caution. The choice is yours, ultimately, so do your research well before eating. There’s a great active community on Facebook called False Morels Demystified which explores eating and safe preparations. They are a wealth of information for the curious.