From my experience, here’s what makes the best scope for 6.5 Creedmoor:

First, great reticle. You can either do all the calculations by hand. Or the reticle can lend you a hand by doing it for you — this is helpful for long holdover shots.

Next, the body needs to be durable and the turrets need to track true. This makes adjustments easy. And most importantly, clear glass. The last thing you want is murky glass at high magnifications.

After years of extensively using dozens of 6.5 Creedmoor scopes, the Vortex Viper PST II 5-25×50 checks all of these boxes and is one of the best long range optics on the market.

The PST Gen II is my go-to long range scope.

The turrets are glove-adjustable, the EBR-2C reticle is fine and illuminated, and the glass is crystal clear. Plus, the magnification range is more than adequate for extreme long-range shooting and hunting.

That’s why it’s my go-to scope for long-range events.

If you want an ‘upgraded’ version of the PST Gen II, I’d recommend investing in Nightforce’s NXS line.

Just like the PST, it has clear glass, the turrets are adjustable and accurate, and the glass is second to none. What makes this optic superior is the MOAR reticle. It’s super easy to use and read — an indispensable feature on the field.

However, it does come at an indispensable price tag.

When I first started out in long range shooting, I didn’t have the money to buy the fanciest gadgets.

I needed an optic that performed well without the heavy price tag. That’s when my friend introduced me to the Athlon Argos BTR — an affordable long-range scope that has clear glass and the APMR reticle.

This would be my go-to if I needed something affordable and were getting started with long distance shooting.

If you can’t afford the PST Gen II or Nightforce NXS but want something a bit better than the Argos BTR, I’d highly recommend the Strike Eagle 4-24×50.

Sure, it doesn’t have Nightforce’s glass, but the glass on it is really good. In fact, I’ve used it for precision shooting, long-range shooting (above 1000 yards), and even hunting — and it has never let me down. Plus, it comes with Vortex’s lifetime warranty.

Why should you trust me?

I’m not a retired Navy Seal.

Nor am I some optic guru with 30 years of experience.

I’m just a guy who likes to go shooting with good quality firearms with good quality equipment. Over the years, I’ve hand-tested hundreds of scopes — including the best AR-15 scopes and optics.

I’ve tried all the brands. Bushnell, Nikon, Nightforce, Vortex, Zeiss — you name it.

As a result, I know what makes a good scope. So when it came time to find the top scope for 6.5 Creedmoor, I did what most people don’t:

Hand-test scopes.

In fact, I researched over 30 6.5 Creedmoor scopes, paid for them out of my own pocket, and tested everything from glass quality to tracking.

The result?

My personal list of the top scopes for the 6.5 Creedmoor cartridge on the market right now.

Also, no reviewer scope or outside contributions were accepted for this review. Nor did any optic company pay me to write this review. I don’t accept sponsored reviews.

In doing so, it allows me to write the most honest guide possible. That way, I can focus on thoroughly testing the scopes rather than appeasing manufacturers.

With that out of the way, let’s get started.

Read Before You Buy

Most people spend WAY too much on the wrong scope (and the best red dots for pistols).

Why?

Because they don’t know what to look for in a 6.5 Creedmoor scope.

So to save you money and time, here’s everything you need to know about finding the right 6.5 Creedmoor scope.

By the end of this small guide, you’ll know what type of scope to buy.

How To Choose A 6.5 Creedmoor Scope

Put simply:

The 6.5 creedmoor is arguably one of the best long-distance rounds.

It easily hits 250 yards without a sight. And when you add the best 6.5 Creedmoor optic, it easily goes past 1000+ yards and up.

The best part?

The 6.5 fits in .308 sized guns with the power of a 300 win mag…all in one round.

(6.5 went through 4+ bottles of soda)

That’s why competitive shooters have easily stretched past 3000 yards — even in windy conditions!

But let’s be real for a second:

You probably won’t shoot that far out. Instead, you might choose one of these…

6.5 Creedmoor Shooting Distances

These are the 3 ranges you’ll probably be shooting from:

• Close Range: <300 yards
• Medium Range: Between 300 to 700 yards
• Long Range: 700+ yards

Simply pick a range and move on.

But what if you use more than one range? That’s totally fine — I’ll cover that down below. For now, choose a range and move onto…

What Magnification To Choose For 6.5 Creedmoor Scopes?

Here’s the #1 newbie mistake for scopes:

People buying the WRONG amount of magnification. They either buy too much or too little, resulting in missed shots.

So how do you solve this? By reading up on magnification.

The good news?

I’ll cover the different magnification ranges you need for your 6.5 Creedmoor rifle scope right now. Keep on reading…

Close Range (<300 yards)

The 6.5 Creedmoor isn’t a close-range weapon.

However, if you want to kill a whitetail dead then here’s the magnification you’ll need:

• Magnification: 5 – 9X power

You’ll find that even the best holographic sights can’t go much higher than this effectively.

Medium Range (300 – 700 yards)

This is the most common 6.5 hunting range. Whether you’re hunting elk, deer or mulies, you’ll need:

• Magnification: Between 9 – 15X power

This will allow you to virtually see (and hit) most big game targets effortlessly.

Long Range (700+ yards)

This is where the 6.5 Creedmoor’s beauty shines.

In fact, people routinely hit 1000+ yards with very little effort. How? By selecting the right magnification.

Here’s the 6.5’s recommended long-range mag:

• Magnification: 15X and up

The Bottom Line On Magnification

Want to choose the right scope? Do two things:

• Determine your shooting range (short, medium, long)
• Choose a magnification range

When done correctly, you have no choice but to choose the best 6.5 Creedmoor scope for your needs.

That said, if you use more than one magnification (medium and long range), then get a variable powered scope.

This type of scope has a range of magnifications (like the ones down below) and can outperform even the best AR-15 red dot scopes at most ranges.

With all that said, I believe you’re ready to choose the best 6.5 Creedmoor scope. Let’s dive in!

Best Scope for 6.5 Creedmoor

If you’re pressed on time, here’s a quick list of the best scopes for 6.5 Creedmoor:

1. Vortex Viper PST II 5-25×50: Best Long Range Scope
2. Nightforce Optics NXS 5.5-22×56: Best Extreme Long Range Scope
3. Athlon Argos BTR 6-24×50: Best Budget Long Range Scope
4. Vortex Strike Eagle 4-24×50: Best Short-to-Long Range Scope

1. Vortex Viper PST II 5-25×50: Best Long Range Scope

The Vortex Viper PST II 5-25×50 is the best long range scope for 6.5 Creedmoor.

In fact:

I’d call it a “Budget-Friendly Night Force Scope”.

Why? Keep reading and all will be revealed…

Glass Clarity & Reticle

The glass is clear as day.

Matter of fact, I barely noticed a difference in glass quality between the PST and Razor HD:

(And keep in mind: The Razor HD costs TWICE as much as the PST).

So, how is the Viper’s glass that clear?

Well, Vortex used the same coatings — extra-low dispersion (XD) glass and fully multi-coated lens — on both rifle scopes.

This results in crispy views like this:

Looking through the scope, you may have noticed the fine reticle:

The EBR-2C MRAD.

(Also available in MOA)

What’s so special about it?

Two things:

1. It’s specifically engineered for long-range shots. And…
2. It can estimate holdover, windage, and even bullet drop.

That’s pretty cool.

But the part that sells it is how the scope’s set in the first focal plane.

Which means:

The reticle’s size adjusts with your magnification.

Here it is at 5X magnification:

And at 25X:

This is perfect for long-range shooting as it’ll make distance adjustments MUCH easier and more accurate, making this one of the best scopes for AR-10.

The reticle also works in low-light conditions. This is due to the illuminated reticle.

Take a look:

It’s visible both day and night. It even comes with a 10-setting illumination knob (which is smooth to turn).

Battery life is great too. However, I recommend keeping a spare of CR2032 batteries in your range bag just in case the batteries die.

Eye Relief & Eye Box

The 3.4” eye relief is pretty good. The eye box is also very forgiving.

The best part?

The eye relief remains consistent at all magnification settings.

Durability

The PST Gen II is extremely durable.

In fact:

It’s completely shockproof, fogproof, waterproof, snowproof, and even…

…fireproof.

It’s survived being thrown out of a car:

Being buried alive in dirt:

And pure abused. Despite all that, the scope still functioned perfectly and held zero. The glass is also oil-proof, dirt-proof, and scratch-proof due to the ArmorTek coating.

In short:

It has a rugged exterior and can be used in ANY condition. However, the durability and glass quality comes at a minor cost:

Heavier weight (2 pounds).

But so are all the 5-25x alternatives — some even heavier. That said, to keep your build as light as possible, I recommend using a lightweight mount (covered below).

Elevation & Windage Knobs

The capped windage and elevation turrets are very reliable.

They produce crisp, audible clicks. It turns smoothly. It’s very precise. And the textured grips around each knob makes adjustments super easy:

Zeroing was even easier. Within 3 shots of getting on paper, I was zeroed. It also held zero.

Matter of fact, I’ve fired over 300 6.5 Creedmoor rounds to date with the PST and the scope still hasn’t lost zero.

That’s great and all, but the one feature that makes this scope worth its weight in gold is the…

RZR Zero Stop.

With it, you can’t adjust past your sight-in zero. This is invaluable for long-distance shots (which require frequent adjustments).

Here’s how to set it up:

Magnification & Parallax

The 5-25x magnification is great for medium to long-range shooting — making it one of the best scope for 6.5 Creedmoor AR 10.

The magnification ring is smooth, yet stiff:

The best part?

The scope remains clear and parallax-free throughout ALL magnification settings (5x-25x). I’ve shot past 1,000 yards with ease.

But one thing to keep in mind:

Weather affects clarity.

For example, if it rains or snows, you’ll notice the clarity at inclining magnifications (20x-25x) become a bit worse.

Why?

Because of the scope’s clarity. You see, Vortex engineered the glass to pick up every single detail. So if you’re out shooting in rain, the PST will likely pick up individual rain drops.

That said, it’s not really a problem. It’s just something to keep in mind when shooting in bad weather.

Mounting & Rings

I went with the Midwest Industries 30mm Quick Disconnect Mount. It’s lightweight, easy-to-use, and durable.

But let’s be honest:

It’s not worth the extra money. Instead, I’d recommend getting the Aero Precision Ultralight Extended Mount for your 6.5 Creedmoor rifle. It’s well-built, feather light, and relatively cheap.

If you intend on shooting in sunny conditions, don’t buy a sunshade — the scope already comes with one 🙂

And one last thing:

If you want to keep your lens in tip-top shape for years to come, invest in Vortex Defender Flip Caps (Eye Piece Size: E-10, 41.5-46mm) (Objective Size: O-50, 55-59mm).

Vortex’s included bikini caps just don’t cut it.

Summary

If you’re a long-range shooter or tactical precision shooter, I HIGHLY recommend the Vortex Viper PST Gen II 5-25×50.

Here’s why. It’s got:

• Zero stop
• Clear glass
• First focal plane
• EBR-2C illuminated reticle
• Tactical, glove-adjustable turrets
• Lifetime, no-questions-ask warranty
• Long magnification (can easily see past 1,000 yards)

In other words:

It’s got all the premium Nightforce features…without the arms and legs price tag. That’s why it’s my go-to scope for long-range events.

Of course, it costs a pretty penny. And it’s not for everyone.

But if you’re looking for the best long range scope for the money, I wouldn’t think twice about getting the PST Gen II as it easily stands among the best rifle scopes.

2. Nightforce Optics NXS 5.5-22×56: Best Extreme Long Range Scope

The Nightforce NXS 5.5-22×50 is the best extreme long-range scope.

In fact:

It was originally developed for the U.S. military’s extreme long-range shooting. And to date:

It’s the number one choice for military and law enforcement agencies.

Why? Keep reading to find out…

Glass Clarity & Reticle

The glass is exceptional.

Matter of fact, it’s the best glass I’ve ever seen. Take a look for yourself:

It’s second to none. And for a good reason:

Nightforce uses high-quality precision glass. Then, they fully multi-coated the lens to maximize clarity and light transmission.

The results? Insanely clear glass.

And that’s not all. Nightforce knew that a good reticle was key to long-range shooting. So, they made one of the best long-range reticles to date:

The MOAR reticle.

It’s very advanced. It can be used for ranging objects. Estimating windage, holdover, winddrift. And it has the option to illuminate, which makes low light shooting a breeze.

Also:

The reticle is plenty fine for load development at 150 yards, prairie dogs at 500, or shawking steel at 1,000+. And it’s thick enough that I don’t lose it in timber — making it one of the best hunting scope for 6.5 Creedmoor rifle.

The best part?

The reticle remains clear and thick at ALL magnifications. This is due to the NXS’ second focal plane.

Eye Relief & Eye Box

The Nightforce NXS has 4 whopping inches of eye relief!

Which means, you don’t have to crawl up on the scope to get a full picture. Nor do you have to worry about scope bite.

In fact:

The NXS could handle higher recoiling rifles such as the .50 BMG and .338 Lapua Magnum.

Just be sure to get solid mount/rings (which I’ll cover down below).

Also, the field-of-view is large and the eye box is very forgiving.

Durability

This 6.5 Creedmoor rifle scope is built like a tank.

It’s 2-pounds of solid 6061-T6 Aircraft Grade Aluminum.

It has survived rigorous torture testing, 1,250 G’s of force, and multiple beatings:

Despite all that, the scope still works perfectly. It’s no surprise why. Nightforce optics were designed for the U.S. military. Which means, durability was a must. And the NXS is one hell of a rugged scope.

Not to mention, it’s completely waterproof, fogproof, and snowproof.

Elevation & Windage Knobs

The target turrets are very reliable.

They produce audible, tactile clicks. It turns smoothly. Tracking is dead-on. And the textured grip knobs make adjustments 100x easier:

Zeroing was straight-forward. Within 4 rounds, I was set. But does it hold zero? To date, I’ve fired over 125 rounds of heavy-hitting .50 BMG rounds and it still hasn’t lost zero.

That says a lot. But what really speaks is my favorite long-range feature…

The ZeroStop.

With this feature, you never have to worry about losing your zero ever again.

For example, let’s say you zeroed at 50 yards. If you want to take a shot at 400 yards, simply adjust the elevation up. But what if you want to shoot back down to 50 yards and don’t remember how many rotations you took?

Good news:

You don’t have to. Because Zero Stop saves your zero. This allows you to make frequent adjustments without worrying about losing your zero. Here’s a video demonstrating how it works:

It’s quick. Easy. And makes going back to zero a no brainer.

Magnification & Parallax

The 5.5-22X is effective for short-to-extreme long distances.

In fact:

I was able to hit the bullseye at 2,150 yards.

That’s because the scope remains parallax-free and clear throughout all magnifications — including the highest (22X). This places it equal with the best rimfire scopes for 22LR and other similar guns.

The best part?

Unlike the Vortex PST, the scope’s clarity remains sharp in bad weather. So if you’re hunting and it starts pouring rain, your scope won’t be effected.

The only minor drawback is the side parallax knob markings. Let me explain…

Other scopes that have parallax adjustment knobs usually have numbers associated with the mark. This scope doesn’t. It just has notches.

Of course, this was new to me and it was a bit difficult for me to get used to. But after a while, it became second nature.

Mounting & Rings

I went with the Nightforce 1.125 High Ring Set.

They are excellent rings. Very solid — especially for big bore or larger caliber rifles.

Sunshade is included with the scope. However, you need to get yourself some lens caps if you want to keep the glass protected.

I recommend getting Nightforce Lens Caps. Eyepiece:

Objective:

Summary

If you got the money and are looking for the most premium extreme long-range scope out there, the Nightforce NXS 5.5-22×56 is for you.

Here’s why:

• Durable
• Zero stop
• MOAR reticle
• Exceptional glass
• Second focal plane
• Generous field of view
• Short-to-Long distances
• Low-light shooting capabilities

It’s no wonder Chris Kyle — the most lethal sniper in U.S. history — used Nightforce. They produce the best optics on the market.

But they also produce the biggest tear in your pocket. The old saying is “buy once, cry once.”

I don’t know about you, but I’m still crying. Because the truth is:

It really stung buying this scope. But at the end of the day, I can easily nail targets above 2000 yard ranges.

In short:

If you’re a precision marksman, law enforcement/military personnel, or do PRS competitions, the Nightforce NXS 5.5-22×56 gives you everything you need and more.

3. Athlon Argos BTR 6-24×50: Best Budget Long Range Scope

You don’t need to spend $800+ on a quality long-range 6.5 Creedmoor scope.

You can get similar quality for a fraction of the price.

Enter: Athlon Argos BTR 6-24×50.

It’s got:

• Great glass
• True tracking
• Tough durability
• First focal plane
• APMR illuminated reticle
• Long-range capabilities (1,200+ yards)

In short:

If you’re on a tight budget or just getting started with long distance shooting, I highly recommend the Athlon Argos BTR 6-24×50.

It’s got all of the premium long-range shooting features at ⅓ of the price.

In fact, these features make it one of the best scopes for 308 long range shooting and the best 10/22 scopes available.

If you’re interested, read my full Athlon Argos BTR review. Or you could purchase it now:

4. Vortex Strike Eagle 4-24×50: Best Short-to-Long Range Scope

The Vortex Strike Eagle 4-24×50 is designed for short-to-long distance shots.

In fact:

I’ve used it for precision shooting, long-range shooting (above 1000 yards), and even hunting.

What makes it so versatile? Everything, starting with…

Glass Clarity & Reticle

The glass is sharp and bright.

Clarity is good enough to watch the bullet trace from a 6.5 Creedmoor round hit paper at 150 yards at 24X.

However, the edges become a bit blurry at higher magnification powers (20X+).

The EBR-4 MOA reticle is solid for long distance shooting.

It’s a second focal plane 20 MOA that estimates holdover, range, and windage corrections — making it a solid 6.5 Creedmoor BDC scope. The reticle’s also illuminated:

This allows you to shoot in low-light conditions.

It has an 11-setting brightness knob that is smooth to turn. Although battery life is good, I recommend having a spare of CR2032 batteries in your range bag.

Eye Relief & Eye Box

It has a generous 3.5” of eye relief.

This is a bit more than the Athlon Argos BTR.

The eyebox is forgiving as well. However, it gets a bit tight at the highest magnification (24X).

Durability

It’s O-ring sealed, nitrogen purged, and built from aircraft-grade aluminum.

In other words, it’s completely waterproof, fogproof, and shockproof. It won’t break no matter the conditions.

But all this durability comes at a cost:

Heavy weight (1.6 pounds).

This is lighter than the Vortex PST II. But it’s still a bit heavy. To compensate, use a lightweight mount (covered below).

Elevation & Windage Knobs

The tactical turrets are zero resettable.

Which means, you can adjust the windage and elevation dials, and return to zero quickly. A great feature if you’re into hunting or long-range shooting where frequent adjustments are required.

The turrets are also audible and crisp.

Although they’re stiff to turn at first, it loosens up with usage.

Magnification & Parallax

The 4x – 24x zoom range offers a wide array of shooting scenarios, making it perfect for various shooting applications. Tactical, feral hog hunting, competition, operations, etc.

The best part?

The sight remains clear and parallax-free throughout all ranges. Here’s how it looks at 4x:

And at 24x:

If parallax ever becomes an issue, Vortex installed a side parallax knob to tackle it 🙂

But keep in mind: the knob is stiff to turn at first. But just like the turrets, it’ll loosen up with usage.

Mounting & Rings

I used a Vortex Sport Cantilever 30mm Mount 2-inch offset on my 6.5 Creedmoor rifle. It’s durable, easy to install (tools included in the box), and holds your scope in place.

Also:

I recommend getting Vortex Defender Flip Caps (Eye Piece Size: E-10, 41.5-46mm) (Objective Size: O-50, 55-59mm).

It’ll keep your glass protected for years to come.

Summary

Looking for the best Vortex scope for 6.5 Creedmoor rifle? Get the Vortex Strike Eagle 4-24×50.

Besides the stiff knobs and slight distortion at inclining magnifications, it’s got:

• Clear glass
• EBR-4 reticle
• Zero resettable
• Illuminated reticle
• Edge-to-edge clarity
• Fast focus eyepiece
• Short-to-long distance magnification (4x – 24x)

In short:

It’s a solid, budget-friendly Creedmoor scope that could be used on any gun — including the AR-15. Not to mention, it’s covered by Vortex’s lifetime warranty. So if it ever breaks, they’ll repair it for free.

Disclosure

Every review you read — be it print or online — should have a disclosure informing you about any potential biases that may influence the review.

I want you to know about any biases that may have affected this review.

How I Get My Scopes

Every 6.5 Creedmoor rifle scope I recommended above were bought from my own pocket money. I paid the same price as any other customer.

External Contributions

I received no special discounts. Nor did I receive any free or ‘reviewer’ products.

By doing this, it allows me to share with you my own personal experience with each optic. The good, the bad, and the ugly without appeasing scope manufacturers.

I have no financial interest to any optic company. This includes stocks and mutual funds. This isn’t a sponsored post.

Affiliate Links

ScopesField.com is a for-profit business that literally feeds and clothes my family.

I earn money through affiliate sales. Which means, if you make a purchase through my affiliate link, I get a small commission: typically 2-4%.

I don’t see what you purchase, nor does it affect the price you pay.

With the money I make, I use it to feed my family, keep the reviews unbiased (not reaching out to optic companies), and keep annoying ads off my site.

Conclusion

You can’t go wrong with any of these scopes.

In fact:

I’ve reviewed tens of scopes and these turned out to be the best scope for 6.5 Creedmoor.

They’re all capable of shooting above 1,000 yards with fine adjustments.

Just pick one based on your budget and try it out at the range.

If you don’t like it for whatever reason, you could always return it back to Amazon thanks to their 30-day Money Back Guarantee.

Now I’d like to hear from you:

Which riflescope do you use for your 6.5 Creedmoor rifle?

Maybe a Nightforce? Or a Vortex PST Gen II? Either way, let me know by leaving a comment down below.

If you have any other scope recommendations I should look into, please let me know. Also, if you’re a CQB hunter or someone that shoots close-range, check out my best 1-4x scope or best red dot magnifier buyer’s guide.

Lastly, to all those who have served, and those who continue to serve…Thank you for your service! Come home safely and soon.

Wild edible roots and tubers can form the basis for a wild foods diet, providing more calories and nutrition than a few wild foraged weeds.

A while back I was having lunch with my little ones in a park, and a young couple, seemingly on a first date was not too far off. They were having an animated conversation about, of all things…foraging!

I couldn’t help but listen, giggling to myself that the world of dating has come a long way since I was younger, and now these two are trying to woo each other with their foraging prowess.

One of them would brag about their haul of wild leeks (aka. ramps) earlier in the season, and the other was quick to drop every fact they knew about those tasty wild bulbs.

I don’t often meet other foragers out and about in the world and it was tricky for me to bite my tongue as they talked about my passion just a few yards away. Not my place, not my date…but I do hope it works out for that pair!

Right before they headed out, they both vehemently agreed that you never, under any circumstances forage wild roots! Never! That’s just so incredibly dangerous!

Anything below ground has to be off-limits….which I’ll admit is kind of ironic, given the previous brag about wild leeks, though they’re probably only harvesting the leaves.

Irony aside, I was kind of surprised. I dig plenty of wild roots, though I’m no expert on the subject. Of course, there are toxic species, that’s true of leaves, fruit, and anything else.

For some reason, people are intimidated by foraging roots and tubers, partially because it involves a bit more work than plucking edible wild berries off a bush. But also I think a lot of the reluctance stems from fear.

It’s true, there are some incredibly toxic roots out there. But there are also some incredibly poisonous berries, and that doesn’t stop just about everyone from picking blackberries along the hiking trail.

Why? Well, a blackberry looks like a blackberry of course! There’s really nothing that looks like a blackberry, except other edible rubus species, which are also tasty and delicious.

That’s true of many roots as well, and if you learn them, they’ll be no less intimidating than trailside berries.

Wild Edible Roots and Tubers

That experience got me thinking, and I really want to write more about the dense calorie sources that are available in the form of wild roots and tubers. There’s a handful that I forage regularly, but still, there are more that I know but rarely bother with.

I consider myself an adventurous forager, but ya know, sometimes I get lazy like anybody. I know cattail roots make excellent flour, but sometimes lounging by the pond is nicer than wading into the muck to harvest pancake ingredients.

Still, I need a new challenge, and this is enough to spur me into it. A few years back, I decided to try to find every edible berry and fruit in my local landscape, and I came up with more than 50 different species.

Next, I’m going underground to try to find as many edible wild roots as possible.

This obviously isn’t an exhaustive list, and I’m sure there are plenty of tasty roots that I haven’t tried (yet). I’ll work to add to it over time, and please do leave me a note in the comments if you see any that definitely should make the list.

I’ll add links as I write about each one, but for now, I’m posting this as a starting point mainly because I’d like feedback.

What’s your experience foraging wild roots and tubers? What are your favorites? What’s missing from my list?

(Leave me a note below in the comments.)

I did some quick research, and here’s what I found for edible roots. Most I knew, but some I had never heard of, and I have no verification of their edibility beyond spotty online sources, so please verify with other sources and don’t just take my word for this (or anything really, you should always double-check).

• Arrowroot (Sagittaria latifolia)
• Bistort (Polygonum bistortoides)
• Bull Thistle (Cirsium vulgare)
• Burdock (Arctium sp.)
• Cattails (Typha sp.)
• Chickory (Cichorium intybus)
• Chufa (Cyperus esculentus)
• Cucumber Root (Medeola virginiana)
• Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale)
• Daylily (Hemerocallis sp.)
• Evening Primrose (Oenothera sp.)
• Garlic Mustard (Alliaria petiolata)
• Ground Nut (Apios americana)
• Lesser Celandine (Ficaria verna)
• Lotus, American (Nelumbo lutea)
• Pignut (Conopodium majus)
• Ramps or Wild Leeks (Allium tricoccum)
• Sego Lily (Calochortus nuttallii)
• Shepherd’s Purse (Capsella bursa-pastoris)
• Spring Beauty (Claytonia lanceolata)
• Solomon’s Seal (Polygonatum sp.)
• Sunchokes or Jerusalem Artichokes (Helianthus tuberosus)
• Trout Lily (Erythronium pudica)
• Wild Carrot or Queen Anne’s Lace (Daucus carota)
• Wild Parsnip (Pastinaca sativa)
• Wild Potato (Orogenia linearifolia)

Be aware that many of these require processing to consume, and are not edible raw straight from the ground. Beyond that, others have toxic or dangerous parts.

The leaves of wild parsnip, for example, can cause a rash from contact with skin. Wild carrot has a deadly toxic look alike too.

Be careful, and do your research before attempting to forage any of these wild roots. Always consult multiple sources, and always be 100% sure of your ID before eating any wild plant.

This is, as I said, just a jumping-off point for further research…and a bucket list of sorts for myself.

Medicinal Roots

Beyond the edible roots, there are a few wild roots and tubers that are “edible” but generally consumed in small quantities for medicinal benefit. You can harvest them and they’re definitely useful, but you’re not exactly going to cook a meal from them.

I’m just adding these here for completeness, given that they are eaten medicinally, even if in small quantities. Know that while they may be edible in small doses, that doesn’t mean they’re not problematic or even toxic in large doses.

• Barberry (Berberis vulgaris) – An upright invasive bush in the US, and I commonly eat the berries. Haven’t yet harvested roots.
• Comfrey (Symphytum officinale) – Most sources suggest sticking to external uses only, since even small doses may be toxic, though it has a history of internal use historically.
• Dock (Rumex Sp.) – Reportedly edible, but I have a reaction to it, and it tastes horrible. Plenty of people use it for both food and medicine though.
• Echinacea (Echinacea purpurea) – We regularly make echinacea tincture and echinacea tea.
• Elecampane (Inula helenium) – We use this for homemade cough syrup, and I personally find it extremely effective.
• Marshmallow (Althaea officinalis) – Marshmallow root tea is incredibly soothing for sore throats and cough, and I keep it on the shelf for winter remedies.
• Mullein (Verbascum thapsus) – I use the leaves and flowers, and only recently learned the root is used medicinally as well.
• Japanese Knotweed (Reynoutria japonica) – Traditionally used for Lyme disease.
• Valerian (Valeriana Officinalis) – Used as a sleep aid, often as a herbal tincture.
• Wild Ginger (Asarum canadense) – Small doses, and use caution as it may be toxic.

Poisonous Roots

Though obviously you’re not just going to dig up any root and eat it out there in the wild, there are a few to really avoid while foraging roots.

This is definitely not an exhaustive list, but just a few of the most common poisonous roots, especially those that have edible look-alikes.

As always, make sure you’re 100% positive on your identification before eating any wild plant, and always consult more than one source when trying to identify a plant.

• Belladonna (Atropa belladonna) ~ Most poisonings are from the berries, which are really beautiful and especially attractive to kids. The whole plant is deadly toxic though.
• Bloodroot (Sanguinaria canadensis) ~ Sometimes used medicinally in external preparations, I don’t think it’s worth the risk. It can cause extreme contact burns and I avoid it altogether. Still a beautiful spring ephemeral to appreciate in the forest, just enjoy with your eyes.
• Elderberry Root (Sambucus sp.) ~ Though the berries are edible and medicinal when cooked, all other parts of the plant at considered toxic.
• False Hellebore (Veratrum viride) ~ Occasionally confused for ramps by novice foragers since they appear at the same time in the early spring. Other than being low-growing green leaves, they don’t really look anything like ramps in my opinion. Still, avoid them as a toxic plant.
• Greater Celandine (Chelidonium majus)
• Jack in the Pulpit (Arisaema triphyllum)
• Mandrake (Mandragora sp.)
• Pokeweed (Phytolacca americana) ~ Leaves are sometimes consumed with the right preparation, even though some sources list the whole plant as toxic. Avoid the roots and berries though.
• Water Hemlock (Cicuta sp.) ~ A close look-alike with Queen Anne’s lace, but deadly toxic. I avoid Queen Anne’s Lace roots for this reason.

Foraging Guides

Looking for more foraging guides? Read on…

• 60+ Dandelion Recipes
• 50+ Ways to Use Yarrow
• 12+ Chokecherry Recipes
• 100+ Medicinal Plants and Their Uses

MeatEater is Part of Outdoor Channel’s “Taste of the Wild” Block Monday Nights

DENVER (October 11, 2024) – MeatEater, featuring the charismatic Steven Rinella, has consistently captivated viewers of Outdoor Sportsman Group, and now season 11 of this perennial favorite is now available nationally on Outdoor Channel for the first time every Monday at 8 p.m. ET.

As Rinella continually shares, the show transcends beyond the mere search of an animal; it’s a testament to his own personal grit, determination and essence that fuels such pursuit. Season 11 sees Rinella and crew chase moose in Alaska, spearfish in Hawaii, hunt ducks in Louisiana and find themselves in many more nature-fueled adventures along the way.

“One of my favorite episodes from season 11 was a moose hunt in eastern Alaska. We were there for ten days and were getting our buns kicked. And then, finally, in the last hour of the last day of the season here comes a bull from about a mile off. Trying to call him up the mountain while simultaneously closing the distance by heading in his direction was one of the more exciting moments we ever filmed,” shared Steven Rinella.

Growing up in the Midwest’s great outdoors – hunting, fishing, and trapping from a young age – Rinella has always viewed the world through the eyes of an ancestral hunter/gatherer. Inspired by early man’s skill, ingenuity, and sheer determination to survive and thrive under challenging circumstances, Rinella has made his life’s work to cultivate those same qualities – and encourage others to do the same – while always being mindful of conservation principles and practices.

In MeatEater, Rinella explores various hunting techniques, tracks and pursue prey, and procures and cooks his own food. Whether tracking blacktail deer in the remote Alaskan wilderness, or rooting out javelina in Texas, Rinella leverages his back-country skills, challenging himself at every corner while providing nail-biting adventure along the way.

Steven Rinella is an avid outdoorsman, writer, and television personality best known for his ability to translate the hunting lifestyle to a wide variety of audiences. He is the host of the long-running television show MeatEater and top-ranked MeatEater podcast. He is the New York Times bestselling author of ten books dealing with wildlife, hunting, fishing, and wild game cooking, most recently Outdoor Kids in an Inside World: Getting Your Family Out of the House and Radically Engaged with Nature and the audio original, MeatEater’s Campfire Stories: Narrow Escapes and More Close Calls. He is the recipient of the Conservation Achievement Award from The Theodore Roosevelt Conservation Partnership.

About Outdoor Channel: Outdoor Channel has been taking viewers across America and around the world on unparalleled adventures since 1993. Dedicated to the outdoor lifestyle and conservation, the independent cable network is a division of Outdoor Sportsman Group and provides a complete spectrum of riveting hunting, fishing, shooting and adventure entertainment. Outdoor Channel is the largest outdoor TV footprint in the country and is available in more than 50 countries internationally. Outdoor Channel can be viewed in HD and is accessible by broadband and mobile platforms. For program times and other information, visit www.outdoorchannel.com. Follow us on Twitter, Instagram, Facebook and YouTube.

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MEDIA CONTACT:

Outdoor Sportsman Group | OSGPress@outdoorsg.com

Cibolo Creek Ranch in West Texas was established in the mid-1800s by Milton Faver. Legend has it that Faver fled Missouri for Texas after gunning a man down in a duel. Only 45 miles north of the Mexican border and an hour south of Marfa, the 30,000-acre ranch became an important outpost for trade along the Rio Grande. More than 170 years later, it’s now known as the home of a potential record book deer killed by Texas native John Hughes.

Hughes’ rare deer is a Carmen Mountain whitetail, the resident cervids of the area that were first discovered in Mexico in the 1930s. They are one of four subspecies of the whitetail deer in Texas and a smaller cousin of the Coues deer, which makes the size of Hughes’ 131-inch free-range buck that much more impressive. Some people call Carmen Mountain whitetails “Coues deer,” and Boone and Crockett put them in the same category in its record books.

“On our first morning, we were driving back up in the mountains, and Jasper, our guide, saw what he thought was a monster Coues,” Hughes said. “My son Coleman jumped out, and they advanced on this deer. Then they turned, and they ran back to the truck. The buck was so big Jasper wanted Coleman to have a super solid rest, and so he put him on the truck.”

The rare deer was on the move and quickly outrunning the range of his son’s rifle.

Related: World Record Whitetail: The Top 5 Typical Archery Bucks

“He had his .308 suppressed Remington 700, a rifle he’s had since he was 8 years old. That deer was at 200 yards; can’t get a shot. Deer’s at 400 yards, and I’m like, “Bro, you’ve got to chuck that rifle. Grab Jasper’s .28 Nosler.”

Coleman took his shot at 600 yards and missed just right off the front shoulder. The deer disappeared.

The next morning, Hughes and his son headed out on their own with Jasper out of commission from salmonella poisoning. They located a giant aoudad, and Coleman was able to put a perfect shot on it.

“This thing was an absolute beast,” Hughes said. “Sheep life is pretty rough. They live in very rough places, and they fight for their [mates], you know, unlike most other animals. This guy was probably a rut away from being a one-horned sheep. His right horn was just about broke off.”

Killing the Aoudad was the first of a couple of high points for Coleman on this hunt. He was also able to ring the bell on a heavy mule deer later in the trip.

After they packed to sheep out, the men headed back to the spot they last saw the big deer.

Related: 5 Sleeper Public Land Whitetail States You Don’t Want to Miss in October

“We went right back up in there, and there he was,” Hughes said. “I didn’t know it was that same deer since I didn’t actually see him yesterday. I was like, ‘Holy crap, that’s a 130-inch whitetail buck.’ Now, in South Texas, we would cull it, you know, two years old and not a desirable whitetail for what we’re used to in South Texas. So we just watched it meander off.”

Jim Breck owns High West Outfitter, the operation Hughes and his son were hunting with. He called Hughes to see how they were making out without their guide. After hearing about the deer, Breck told Hughes that there are no whitetails in the area and that he was describing a potential world record Carmen Mountain whitetail.

Breck grabbed their sick guide and drove out to where the Hughes’ were posted up.

“I’m 700 yards away, so I set up with Jasper’s Nosler,” Hughes said. “All I can see is his head and his antlers. He’s tucked himself in up under a cliff with a bunch of logs and trees in front of him.”

The men had been watching the buck for an hour, so they knew he was not in a hurry to move. They decided to touch off a round into the cliffs above the deer to see if they could roust him.

“He scooted out, maybe took about three or four steps,” he said. “Just enough that I could make a shoulder. My first shot missed to the right just like Coleman did. The winds up there took my second shot just left.”

His third shot found the buck’s shoulder, and the animal dropped where it stood.

Related: Antlered Doe: Missouri Hunter Shoots Huge, Rare 16-Pointer

“I didn’t realize how big it was till we got up there. Like, holy shit,” he said.

A Carmen Mountain whitetail in the 90- to 100-inch range is considered typical in size, but anything beyond that 100-inch mark is world-class.

The men green-scored the stud at 131 inches, which is only 7/8-inch shy of the No. 5 typical Boone and Crockett record Coues deer (again, B&C doesn’t distinguish between Carmen Mountain whitetail and Coues deer). It’s also a shoo-in for the Safari Club International (SCI) Top 10; SCI is the only club that recognizes and ranks the Carmen Mountain whitetail as a category separate from Coues.It was a rare deer indeed.

With only 128 Carmel Mountain whitetails total in the SCI record books, Hughes is in some pretty exclusive company. Of course, the record book buzz is something he could take or leave.

“Personally, I don’t give a rat’s ass,” Hughes said. “I guess is a big deal just because there’s not very many big Coues deer killed anymore. For me, hunting with my son and having the story means more.”

Read Next: Texas Elk Hunting is Brimming With Free-Range Opportunities

Making your own gaff is a fun and relatively inexpensive project that almost anyone can do with basic tools and components. It allows for personal customization, and the satisfaction of sticking a fish with a gaff that you made is second to none!

Materials

• 

  Handle

• Gaff hook
• Paracord, hockey tape, or heat shrink for grip
• Electrical tape
• Wire (Like the type to hang pictures)
• Two-part epoxy
• Drill and various drill bits
• Spray paint

First thing is to choose what size gaff hook would be best suited for the type of fishing. For smaller fish like bluefish, mahi, false albacore, or bonito, a 2- to 3-inch hook would be more than adequate. If you’re building something bigger strictly for tuna, shark, and other large offshore species, a 3- to 4-inch hook might be better. That said, a good all-around size is 3 inches which can be purchased at most tackle shops for between $5 and $10. Choosing the best material for the gaff handle is also important. Some people prefer bamboo since it is flexible and strong. Others like rigid handles like broomsticks; hockey sticks, broken rods, or almost anything else can be used as a handle, as long it is durable. The length can be customized, anywhere from a 1-foot lip gaff to an 8-foot reacher is possible. I believe 3- to 5-foot is a good multi-purpose length handle.

Hold the hook up against the handle and determine where the barb is going to be stuck into the handle. Mark it on the handle; then drill a hole in the handle so the barb fits in there and then outline the shank of the hook on the handle. Remove the hook; then, while holding a drill bit or routing bit on top of the handle lengthwise (parallel to the handle), burr out the outline of the hook shank so that way there is a channel where the shank will sit. Be careful if using bamboo or a somewhat hollow material not to go all the way through; just a little indentation will work fine. Mix some two-part epoxy and put some in the hole for the barb and channel for the shank. Lay the gaff hook in its place and wrap tightly with wire. Epoxy should also be added on top of the wire and hook for extra durability. Let the epoxy cure and harden fully. Once the epoxy is fully dried, it is time to wrap the shank and wire. Before doing this, it might be a good idea to hit the area with a quick coat of spray paint to seal up any exposed wire or hook shank that is showing. This will help prevent corrosion to those areas. The color doesn’t matter since it will be covered up anyway. Depending on the handle material, that could also be painted; it is good to paint wooden handles in particular as a sealant and to prevent the wood from getting waterlogged.

After the paint dries, it’s time to wrap the epoxy, wire, and hook shank. For this, electrical tape, heat shrink, or even paracord/string works fine. This is mainly for aesthetic purposes and doesn’t add too much support. The epoxy, wire, and barb are what mainly holds the gaff hook. Having some type of grip on the handle is important, especially if the wood is painted or the material is slippery. Remember, the user’s hands will most likely be wet. Figure out where the gaff handle is naturally gripped when you’re about to stick a fish and add the grips there. The grip can be anything from paracord wrapped around, hockey tape, or heat shrink rod grips; all work great! If using paracord or some sort of rope/string to make a grip, it is important to wrap it tight and finish off the ends with epoxy, so they don’t come undone. What’s nice about this gaff is that it’s something you made and is completely tailored to your liking. Next time NOAA’s offshore forecast leaves you stuck at home, give it a shot!

Have you ever heard turkey drumming?

Most people think of purrs, gobbling and yelps when it comes to common wild turkey vocalizations. It’s easy to see why. They’re extremely common and easy to hear echoing through the spring woods.

But spring gobblers make another, lesser-heard vocalization too. It’s called a turkey drum.

If you’ve never heard this extremely low guttural drumming sound before, don’t feel too bad. Many experienced hunters haven’t either. Here’s everything you need to know about it.

What is turkey drumming?

This vocalization is made exclusively by male turkeys and even scientists are uncertain of exactly how they do it. You’d think with birds as common as turkeys we would know all their secrets, but this one is one of those sounds in the woods that we know very little about.

Some hunters hear the word drumming and think it has something to do with a noise made by the wing feathers, but it’s generally believed a big gobbler makes this sound by quickly sucking in air and then forcing it out again quickly. The result is one of the lowest sounds in the woods. It’s so subtle, you may not even realize the gobbler in front of you is doing it if there’s enough background noise!

Most hunters refer to drumming as a gobbler spit-drum because there is also a distinct spitting sound right before the drum. Either way, this is not a long distance sound like a gobble. It is an up close and personal type of vocalization and if you hear it, it likely means the bird is already in bowhunting range.

What does it mean when a turkey is drumming?

Just like the mystery of how the sound is produced, it seems no one really knows exactly why turkeys make this strange sound. The consensus opinion is that it probably has something to do with mating rituals since it is most often heard while longbeards are strutting and trying to impress hens in the springtime. Many hunters hear it when a bird is responding to their decoys.

Although it’s also worth noting that turkeys strut all year-round, so maybe the spit-drum has some other meaning that we humans simply cannot understand? It would sure make things a lot easier for turkey hunters if we had a translator, but sadly, we do not.

Perhaps drumming is simply a way of intimidating rivals or establishing territory. One thing is for sure, it’s a sound you want to listen for each turkey season.

What does a turkey drumming sound like?

Unlike gobbling, yelping or clucks, a gobbler spit-drum sounds like nothing you’d expect from a turkey. It’s an almost alien sound. The spit part of a spit-drum sounds exactly like the name. There’s a brief, loud “Psssst!” sound. This is followed by the drum, which is truly hard to explain to someone who’s never heard it. Phonetically, the closest we can get is, “Whoooooommmmm.”

It almost sounds like the low hum of a surround sound speaker, or someone plucking one string of a bass guitar. It has a reverberation quality to it that you can actually feel if you’re in close enough proximity.

There are plenty of videos on the internet of turkeys drumming, but even these have a hard time capturing the sound of this low turkey call. Most of the time, you need to listen to audio like this with headphones in order to pick out the very distinct hum. The first time I heard it, I didn’t believe it came from a turkey!

Once you hear a turkey drumming for the first time, you too will probably be dumbfounded by this sound. It’s like no other noise these birds make.

Notice in some of these videos that the gobblers almost look like their whole body or feathers are vibrating as they drum. It seems the Tom must really dig down deep to pull this sound out. It almost sounds like the type of noise a big game animal like a deer would make!

What does turkey drumming mean for hunting?

Turkey drumming is a sound you should be actively listening for every time you step in the woods after a big gobbler. Most hunters know the frustration of a turkey that suddenly stops gobbling, but some hunters might not realize that bird is still approaching them. Some Toms quit gobbling and start drumming, but the sound is so subtle, the hunter misses hearing it. Then, when the hunter stands up to leave, the turkeys spook.

Have you ever had a situation like that? If you have, it’s probably likely that turkey was drumming near you and you didn’t realize it.

Other hunters hear a turkey drum in the woods for the first time without knowing what it is, and it takes them completely by surprise. It is a relatively rare sound of the woods. If you’ve ever heard it while out turkey hunting, you’re lucky. Not many hunters have ever heard it.

Most seasoned experts agree on this turkey hunting tip: If you’re out after a big gobbler in the spring or fall turkey season and you suddenly hear this low sound reverberating through your area, get your bow or gun ready and hope your camo is good. Because there’s a Tom in the area and he’ll probably be within shooting range before you know it! In fact, he’ll be very likely to be within archery range.

Ultimately, the science and research behind turkey drumming and how it’s produced is rather incomplete. On top of that, wild turkeys are known to do some of the most unexplainable things we can imagine, so the mystery shrouding this bird and its actions shouldn’t come as much of a surprise.

For more outdoor content from Travis Smola, be sure to follow him on Twitter and check out his Geocaching and Outdoors with Travis YouTube channels.

NEXT: 10 WAYS TO EXPERIENCE THE BEST OF AMERICA’S BIG GAME HUNTING

WATCH

Prior to European settlement, the grizzly bear (Ursus arctos) called much of California home. Today, despite appearing on the California state flag, the grizzly is extinct throughout the state; the last known California grizzly was killed close to Sequoia National Park in 1922. The savvy Sierran black bear population (Ursus americanus), however, is still thriving.

Size

Size can vary dramatically between black bears. By adulthood, males usually range from 150 to 400 pounds (70 to 180 kg), and females from 90 to perhaps 300 pounds (40 to 135 kg). Males gain weight until they are ten years old or more, while after three years females grow only slowly and stop after seven. Differences in size are indistinct until puberty, at which point females redirect nutrition from growth to reproduction.

Male bears lose weight rapidly through the spring and then gain weight from July until denning in the fall. This seasonal weight change may be explained by mating behavior – male bears expend substantial energy visiting the home ranges of eligible females at a time when food resources are at their lowest. Conversely, female bears are at their lowest weight upon emergence from the den and gain steadily through the year. Females, however, do pay a substantial weight penalty for reproduction; sows with young are 15% lighter than cubless females and may gain only a fourth as much weight from May to September.

Color

Despite their name, black bears range in color from blond through various shades of brown to black. About 95% of bears in the Sierra are some shade of brown and only about 5% are truly black. Color changes through the year are common in bears. Guard hairs start bleaching immediately after the molt, which occurs sometime between May and September. Molting is signaled by the appearance of new guard hairs, which are shorter and darker. They first emerge around the eyes and lower limbs, and then extend up the limbs and down the face and flanks, finishing along the spine.

Lifespan

Longevity for bears in the Sierra varies, but the average lifespan is 18 years. The most common causes of death include accidents with vehicles, disease, enemies, old age, and starvation due to loss of functional teeth.

Communication

Black bears communicate through posturing, marking with odors or other sign, and vocalization. Unlike dogs that can display teeth or curl a lip, a bear’s ability to communicate with facial expressions is poor. The most significant and productive act of communicating for a bear is through its body posture. Bears are often seen in movies and television standing on their two hind legs, growling and looking quite ferocious. In real life however, black bears “stand up” when they are trying to get a better look or smell at something that has piqued their curiosity, and growling is rarely a sound that you will hear from a black bear. When bears assess other bears, staring, slapping the ground, and bluff charging are aggressive behaviors, while lowering the head is submissive. To mark a tree, bears will rub the trunk with their shoulder, neck, and rump. They claw and bite bark and roll on the ground at the base of trees as well.

Although bears are generally silent animals, they do have several vocalizations:

1. Huffing: a single rapid, highly audible exhalation of air through the open lips, produced by both cubs and adults.
2. In-Out Huffing: rapid inhalation and exhalation similar to single huffing repeated rapidly.
3. Bawling: a long hoarse wailing sound produced by cubs.
4. Grunting: a soft “clungk, clungk” made deep in the throat with the mouth closed. Produced by mothers in the presence of cubs.
5. Jaw-Popping: a rapid snapping of the jaws and popping of the lips, produced by all bears.
6. Tooth-Clicking: the jaws are snapped together two or three times, more softly than jaw-popping. This is another sound produced by mothers with cubs.
7. Moaning: a falling note from deep in the throat, much like a human moans, and produced by all bears.

Grunting and tooth clicking seem to be the sounds with the most specific intentions and are almost exclusively used by mother bears with cubs. Grunting seems to mean, “come here” and tooth-clicking is usually followed by the cubs climbing trees. Bawling is done by cubs separated from their mothers, while huffing and jaw-popping often precede or follow bluff charges. This behavior is usually used by animals on the defensive and is used as an alternative to physical contact. In-out huffing is commonly used by bears climbing trees to escape a nearby threat and is a “last ditch” response while fleeing. Bears that are kept in trees for long periods often moan, perhaps implying resignation or defeat.

Reproduction

Female black bears in the Sierra Nevada are usually between three to five years of age when they have their first litter. Courtship and mating usually takes place in a two or three week period in June, July and sometimes as late as August. Bears are polygamous, and a single male may mate with several females. The gestation period for black bears is 235 days (about 8 months), but embryonic growth only takes about two months. This is because bears have a unique reproduction system called embryonic delay, or delayed implantation. Although mating takes place in the summer, the fertilized ovum does not implant for many months. Because of this, bears are only able to give birth when they are in good condition. If the sow has not gained enough weight to support herself and her cubs during the winter, she will abort, and the blastocyst is absorbed by her body.

If a sow is healthy enough, she will give birth during hibernation inside the den in late January or February. Average litter size is two cubs; however, three cubs are not uncommon in the Sierra Nevada. Cubs weigh about 8 ounces at birth and grow to approximately 10 to 12 pounds by the time they leave the den three months later. The cubs will stay with their mother for the rest of the year and will den with her the next winter. After emerging from the den the second year, they will stay as a family unit until the sow is ready to mate again in early summer.

Temperature Regulation:

Like humans, a black bear’s normal body temperature is around ninety-eight to ninety-nine degrees Fahrenheit (though it can vary during hibernation). A black bear’s thick fur serves as excellent insulation during the cold winter months, but it can be problematic in warm weather. Bears, like dogs, do not have sweat glands. Because of this, they must cool themselves through other means:

• Balancing energy expenditure and food intake
• Resting in shady day beds
• Lying with their bellies fully touching the cool ground
• Panting
• Submerging themselves in water

Classic lever-action deer rifles are undoubtedly cool. My first was a Winchester Model 94AE XTR in .30-30 Winchester, that timeless rimmed cartridge that has accounted for innumerable amounts of game. It was a gift from my father for my 15th birthday, and—at least to the young man who received it—marked a passage into manhood. I’d be hunting deer with my father the following season, and that alone was a dream come true. Like any inquisitive young man, I delved into the history and nostalgia of the .30 WCF, or .30-30, and the many names it has carried, and was honored to take my first deer—a whitetail doe—with the same cartridge that my father took his.

I’m old enough to remember when the lever guns were still highly popular among deer hunters, and my own rifle, as shiny and unproven as it was in comparison to the older gents’ worn pieces with bluing rubbed off and stock finish dulled by the elements, was a source of pride. In the deer camp mix of Savage 99s, Marlin 336s and a selection of Winchesters, many cartridges were represented, including some rarities like the .348 Winchester, but the main rivals were the .30-30 Winchester and the .35 Remington. As a matter of fact, that may have been the first campfire cartridge argument I was privy to; if only those gentlemen would’ve realized the fire they’d kindled. Let’s take a look at the two champions of the deer woods, and perhaps finish the conversation started three-plus decades ago.

The .30-30 Winchester has the unique claim of being the first cartridge designed to run on both black powder and the revolutionary smokeless powder. Deriving its name from a combination of the caliber and the powder charge (.30 caliber, 30 grains of powder) the .30-30 was introduced in 1895, in the John Browning-designed Model 1894 Winchester. At the time, .32 caliber cartridges were actually more popular than were the .30s, but it didn’t take long for the .30-30 to establish itself as a perfect deer hunting cartridge. Driving a 160-grain jacketed bullet to a velocity of just over 2300 fps, it represented a fantastic hunting cartridge for its time. Soon after, the classic 150- and 170-grain loads took root, and due to the tubular magazines of so many popular rifles, round nose bullets were employed. It has accounted for almost all, if not all, North American game species, and the famous African PH Wally Johnson used one to kill lions in his early years in Mozambique.

The .35 Remington was released—as one of a quartet of rimless cartridges from Remington—in 1906; it is a rimless affair designed for their Model 8 autoloading rifle. Alongside the .25, .30 and .32 Remington, the .35 would be the only survivor. While it has been chambered in many different rifles, the combination of the Marlin Model 336 rifle and the .35 Remington has achieved true classic status, in spite of the fact that the rifle was introduced 1948. This combination offers an affordable, hard-hitting rig which is capable of taking most common game animals, albeit at short range. The .35 Remington uses the 180- and 200-grain .358″caliber bullets, and while light-for-caliber, they are effective at the ranges a .35 Remington is used, which is usually inside of 150 yards.

Which is the more useful cartridge? Of the two, which serves the hunter better? Traditionally, the tubular magazines of the popular lever-rifles restricted the cartridges to using round or flat-point bullets, to avoid the possibility of magazine detonation, should a pointed spitzer bullet hit the primer of the cartridge ahead of it in the magazine. The exception to that rule is Hornady’s LeveRevolution ammo line, which uses a pliable tip on a spitzer bullet to afford a much flatter trajectory in both cartridges. With the traditional loads, the .30-30 will drive its 150- and 170-grain bullets to a muzzle velocity of 2400 and 2250 fps respectively, while the .35 Remington launches its 180- and 200-grain bullets at 2100 and 2080 fps. Both generate between 1,800 and 1,900 ft.-lbs. of muzzle energy with traditional loads, and the hot-rod LeveRevolution will certainly offer an improvement in ballistic figures, but the advancements are parallel between the two cartridges.

I feel the cartridges offer very similar performance, at similar ranges. If you were to give the edge to the larger frontal diameter of the .35 Remington—.358″ versus .308″—you would have a valid point. If you were to vote for the .30-30 Winchester based on its higher Sectional Density values—the 170-grain .308 bullet has an S.D. figure of .256 versus the 200-grain .358’s S.D. figure of .223e—I’d have to agree with you as well. Personally, at the ranges that these cartridges are used, I could easily call it a draw. Both come in light, handy rifles that are a pleasure to carry in the forested mountains and wooded areas where these guns shine. But, there is an issue: It seems the .35 Remington ammunition has begun to fade away. There seem to be fewer choices each year, and that’s a shame.

I give the edge to the apparently timeless .30-30 Winchester for the availability alone; there are dozens of factory loads to choose from, and being .30-caliber is never a bad thing. It’s just about perfect for the deer woods, and you can easily teach a youngster the art of shooting an iron-sighted lever rifle without punishing recoil. It will handle black bears and feral hogs—as will the .35 Remington—but sourcing ammunition is far easier if you own a good old thutty-thutty. My own 94 Winchester is coming out of the safe this year, freshly adorned with a new front sight and rear peep from Skinner Sights; even middle-aged eyes get a new lease on life, and I’m having lots of fun from the bench with my old friend.

If you shoot a .35 Remington, I see no reason whatsoever to stop doing so, just make sure you keep an ample supply of whatever load your rifle likes. However, even after 123 years on the market, the .30-30 Winchester remains the king of medium caliber lever guns; it has been in the top ten selling cartridges for Federal Premium to this day, and with millions of rifles out there chambered for the cartridge, that will probably be a fact decades from now.

Looking for previous installments of our “Head to Head” series? Click here.

We’re still dreaming of the day when suppressor ownership is legal in all 50 states. Thankfully, great progress has been made in recent years and it is now legal to own a suppressor in 42 of the 50 states.

Making suppressed hunting legal in states where it is legal to own a suppressor has been equally taxing, but also very rewarding. To date, it’s legal to hunt with a suppressor in 41 states.

The most obvious benefit of hunting suppressed is safety, particularly when it comes to protecting your hearing. Noise-induced hearing loss is the most common affliction for hunters. A lot of this comes from hunters forgoing hearing protection year after year for their entire hunting career so that they can hear their surroundings. After all, hearing nature around you is one of the best parts of hunting.

A secondary benefit is that it protects the hearing of your hunting companions. There’s nothing better than sharing an elk hunt with your friends or family, but it can easily be tainted by the sound of an unsuppressed gunshot. Maybe it won’t bother them right away, but over time, it will.

Animals like varmints or predators will go into hiding when they hear a gunshot, so a suppressor is almost a necessity in these instances. Some game animals like deer or elk may completely avoid an area if they are alerted to gunshots. We have seen this firsthand with small game such as ground squirrels that go into hiding for hours after the sound of the first shot and on other occasions not changing a thing because we were shooting suppressed.

Along with not disturbing the game in a given hunting area, suppressors also let you avoid disturbing local residents. Remember, not all hunting is done in the vast majesty of elk country. It may be small in the grand scheme of things, but a decrease in noise complaints is a good thing for everyone.

In this guide, we’re going to dig into all things hunting with a suppressor, including why you need to have one on your next elk hunt.

WHY HUNT WITH A SUPPRESSOR?

As we mentioned, in addition to protecting your hearing, a suppressed firearm allows you to use your unencumbered ears to listen for elk bugling, communicate with fellow hunters, and avoid alerting predators. Quite simply, it allows you to be fully aware of your surroundings from a hearing perspective.

In 2015, Montana Governor Steve Bullock of Montana said it best in a letter to the Montana Speaker of the House, stating: “Suppressors mitigate the sound of a shot, but do not silence it. The use of suppressors for hunting, when hunters cannot wear ear protection because they need to be aware of their surroundings, can help protect against hearing loss. This is especially true for our younger hunters, even those who are not actually hunting but are accompanying their parents in the field.”

Hearing protection in the form of muffs or plugs is as effective but only while being worn. In the field, it is important to be aware of your surroundings, especially in bear, mountain lion, or rattlesnake country. The hunter can easily become the hunted without the situational awareness that hunting with a suppressed firearm offers.

BENEFITS OF HUNTING SUPPRESSED

In summary, suppressed hunting offers a number of benefits that you may have not considered. Here’s a list of those benefits:

• Protect your hearing
• Protect the hearing of others
• Maintain awareness of your surroundings
• Enjoy sounds of nature, like elk bugling
• Avoid disturbing other game
• Reduce noise complaints
• Reduce recoil

IS IT LEGAL TO HUNT WITH A SUPPRESSOR?

Suppressors are legal to own in 42 states. Only one of those 42 doesn’t allow hunting with a suppressor, and that’s Connecticut. So, if you’re a suppressor owner and a hunter in Connecticut, get in touch with your state legislators and let them know it’s time to join the other 41 suppressor legal states that also allow hunting. Hunters’ voices in the other states made the difference in the other states and they can make the difference in Connecticut, too.

WHAT CAN I HUNT WITH A SUPPRESSOR?

In terms of what you can hunt with a suppressor, the sky is virtually the limit so long as you’re in one of the 41 states where suppressed hunting is legal.

As with all types of hunting – suppressor or otherwise – it’s still a good idea to check with your state and local game laws every year to make sure that things haven’t changed.

ELK HUNTING

Part of the thrill of elk hunting is the challenge. These majestic animals can give even the best and most experienced elk hunter a run for their money season after season. Therefore, any extra leg up you can get on them is welcomed when you’re out on the hunt.

Using a suppressor will keep your sound signature down so that you don’t disturb the rest of the herd when making your shot. This is especially important if, for some unfortunate reason or another, you miss your first shot. The less noise your rifle makes, the better chance you’ll have of getting off a second shot.

Since most elk hunting involves carrying all of your gear with you on the hunt, many hunters try to pack as simple and light as possible. This means that hearing protection often gets left behind. It’s not that a pair of electronic muffs are heavy; it’s simply that they’re one more piece of equipment to carry around. With a suppressor on the end of your barrel, you can protect your hearing without having to keep track of an extra piece of equipment.

DEER HUNTING

Deer hunting is greatly enhanced when using your suppressor. This is because most rifle suppressors offer a reduction in recoil. You may not need a .300 Winchester Magnum for a whitetail deer on the east coast at 50 yards but in the western states, but mule deer are larger and often taken at greater distances. Therefore, a bigger caliber may be more beneficial. The same holds true for other game animals such bighorn sheep and caribou.

Even if you’re using a rifle with lighter recoil for whitetail deer and don’t need the recoil reduction, it’s still nice to have the reduced sound signature to protect your ears.

COYOTE HUNTING

Whether you consider them to be varmints or predators, coyotes are some of the most intelligent and cagey animals to hunt. They recognize gunshots for what they are and even the youngest or most naïve of these creatures will keep a smart distance in spite of your best predator calls once they hear one. To sum it up, like their cartoon namesake, they are wily.

FERAL HOG HUNTING

Another animal with excellent hearing and one that knows the sound of gunshots for what they are is the feral hog. These animals have bred to out of control numbers in the wild and are a pestilence when it comes to agricultural, property, and other forms of damage. Suppressed hunting rifles are a necessity when taking out large numbers of them to protect crops and other things that they like to destroy.

VARMINT HUNTING

Prairie dog and ground squirrel hunters often benefit the most from the use of a silenced hunting rifle while varmint hunting. Animals such as these are well aware of what gunfire means and a large group will retreat to their burrows until they no longer hear gunfire.

A suppressed hunting rifle will allow you to maximize your efforts when you need to take them out in a small amount of time. It will allow you to take shots at them for hours on end, if that’s your intent.

BEST SUPPRESSORS FOR HUNTING

There are a lot of suppressors designed with hunting in mind that all share the same characteristics. You want it to be quiet, but also lightweight. Versatility and the ability to share it among different host guns is always a plus. We took a quick overview of a few different centerfire suppressors.

If you want a suppressor that was purpose-built with hunting in mind, then the BANISH Backcountry is one you should give serious consideration. It only weighs 7.8 oz and is only 5.5” in overall length. It’s also rated for use all the way up to .300 Remington Ultra Mag (RUM), so no matter what your choice for elk hunting, the BANISH Backcountry can handle it. The goal is to pack in ounces and pack out pounds, and the Backcountry will help you do just that.

One of the most versatile suppressors in the world is the BANISH 30. A fully user-serviceable can, it works with all of your rifle calibers from .17 HMR to .300 Weatherby. Testing shows that BANISH 30 reduces the report of a .308 Winchester by as much as 34 decibels. It is made from a strong, titanium alloy for unmatched durability at an extremely light weight.

If you are looking for a suppressor that can handle pistol calibers such as .45 ACP as well as large rifle calibers such as .45-70 Government, give the BANISH 46 a look. Made of titanium and Inconel, the BANISH 46 provides the ultimate combination of durability and weight reduction. The BANISH 46 weighs only 16.3 oz in the short configuration of 7.9”, and 20.4 oz in its 10” configuration.

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

As beneficial as suppressors are to the hunter, one would think that they would be easier to come by. Here are some frequently asked questions that may help you understand the buying process as well as their capabilities.

HOW QUIET ARE THEY, REALLY?

Actually measuring sound reduction with a suppressor can be tricky. We have all seen the various decibel rating charts, but they only tell a part of the story. The actual level of sound reduction and the sound meter, itself, can be affected by humidity, barometric pressure, altitude, and echo.

In general, hunting with a suppressor can lessen the sound of most gunshots by anywhere from 25 to 35 decibels, depending on the silencer and caliber in question. This is below the threshold for most hearing protection commonly worn in or over the ears. If you hunt with dogs, it protects their hearing as well.

The other item of note here is that the vast majority of elk hunting rifles (bolt-action, lever-action, pump-action, single-shot) make the best suppressor hosts because the sealed action means there is no gas leakage. A silenced elk hunting rifle will truly live up to its name in this regard.

HOW DO I BUY A SILENCER WITH SILENCER CENTRAL?

Silencer Central takes the formalities out of the paperwork with our digital process. You select the right suppressor for your firearm and let our expert compliance staff handle the paperwork which is emailed to you to digitally sign. With the fingerprint kit, taking your prints and passport-style photo can be accomplished from the privacy of your own home. To make it even easier, we offer a 4-month, eZ-Pay option so you can pay for your silencer in installments. Our free NFA Gun Trust (a $249 value) is set up for you to better protect the ownership of what is really a lifetime investment. Once approved, you receive notification via email and text message, and we ship the silencer directly to your doorstep.

Additionally, we realize that not all hunting rifles ship from the factory with threaded barrels to attach to your silencer. Silencer Central’s in-house machine shop can thread your rifle for you and ship the barrel straight back to your house.

In addition to stocking popular brands, we also offer BANISH multi-caliber suppressors, a 100% titanium and user-serviceable line exclusively built to our demanding specifications.

SHOULD I PURCHASE A SILENCER USING AN NFA GUN TRUST?

At one time, it seemed like purchasing a suppressor by means of using an NFA Trust was the only way to go. This was mainly to avoid wait times from local law enforcement, obtaining fingerprints, photos and, in some extreme cases, chief local law enforcement figures would flat out refuse to sign any NFA paperwork. Much of this is no longer an issue due to an ATF ruling a few years ago that stated the CLEO only needed to be notified of silencer purchases.

However, an NFA gun trust is not a bad thing to have for estate planning purposes, particularly if firearms and silencers are involved.

HOW LONG ARE WAIT TIMES?

Perhaps the biggest drawback to buying a suppressor is the long wait time to go through the FBI background check. The background check is not long in and of itself, but the time it takes for the application to complete the entire ATF approval process is definitely longer.

At times, trusts can be quicker than individuals but at other times this dynamic can change. E-forms filed online are quicker than paper forms filed by mail. Over the years, we have seen approval times as short as 9 days and as long as 27 months. As of this writing, suppressor approval wait times are running about 270 days.

DO SUPPRESSORS AFFECT PERFORMANCE OR ACCURACY?

This is a bit of a mixed bag. In general, suppressors improve performance and accuracy. The right suppressor will lessen felt recoil and eliminate noise flinch, making your silenced hunting rifle more accurate.

However, attaching a suppressor will often change the rifle’s Point of Impact (POI). Often this shift in POI is minimal and can be corrected by adjusting the optic or iron sights. The important thing to remember is that if you sight your rifle in without a suppressor, you will need to re-zero with the suppressor attached.

Some suppressors will need this every time you reattach if they are the QD (Quick Detach) type that attaches to a flash suppressor or muzzle brake. If you are going the direct thread or thread over muzzle brake (TOMB) route, the shift will be negligible unless you are shooting at extremely long ranges ( greater than 1,000 yards).

WHY IS THERE A $200 TAX STAMP?

In 1934, due to concerns about high-profile bank robberies and interstate crime sprees from Depression-era criminals, Congress passed the National Firearms Act. This was the first major piece of gun control legislation passed in the United States.

Although the original intent was to outlaw specific types of firearms, including all handguns, legislators decided to tax them out of circulation by imposing a $200 transfer tax.

The reason why the NFA tax is $200 is because that was the retail price of a Thompson submachine gun in 1934. It was intended to be a 100% excise tax on a firearm that caught the public’s imagination. When adjusted for inflation, that tax today would be $4,500. This is a reason why silencer development languished for so many years until the 21st century.

Products affected by this tax were machine guns, short-barreled rifles (SBR), short-barreled shotguns (SBS), and, of course, suppressors. Firearms that were not quite short-barreled long arms and those that were disguised to not look like a firearm were classified as Any Other Weapon (AOW) and subject to a $3 tax.

The NFA has undergone some minor changes over the past nine decades, including raising the AOW tax from $3 to $5 and changing the SBR length from 18” to 16”. There have been a few attempts by lawmakers to deregulate silencers and remove them from the purview of the NFA, but as of this writing, there is still a $200 tax on this safety device.

READY FOR YOUR FIRST SUPPRESSED ELK HUNT?

Hopefully, by now you have a better understanding of what to look for in a suppressor for hunting. Weight and length are a factor especially if you must walk a few miles on your first suppressed hunt. You also want one that will reduce sound to a comfortable level and maybe even help in the recoil department.

Armed with the knowledge laid out here we hope we can get you ready for that first suppressed hunt. A suppressor is as important to a hunter as a quality firearm, skinning knife, or optic.

The key to having a great hunt is to do your research, hire experts and guides. Let Silencer Central be your suppressor “hunting guide” and redefine the way you buy a silencer. We deliver silencers the simple way. You select your silencer; we manage your paperwork, and your silencer is shipped directly to your doorstep. It’s the service that’s unheard of.

Call our silencer specialists at 888-781-8778 to get started on your next suppressor purchase or visit SilencerCentral.com to buy online.

If you are looking for a unique and thrilling hunting adventure, stalking javelina is unlike anything you have experienced before. These small but ferocious animals have developed a devoted fan base of hunters who dedicate themselves to the observation and hunting of these southwestern mammals.

The key to a successful javelina hunt is knowing as much about your prey as possible. Here is our comprehensive guide to everything you need to know about the javelina.

What Is a Javelina?

The javelina resembles a wild pig and is one of three species of peccary, which is defined as a social, pig-like animal.

They have short, coarse, brindled hair that lightens around the neck, giving the appearance of a collar. They have a snout and small eyes, similar to a pig, and they walk on their front two digits. However, unlike a pig or wild boar whose tusks are curved, the javelina’s tusks are straight, having evolved for crushing fibrous material, seeds, and roots.

Habitat

There are only three species of peccaries in the world. The javelina’s Latin name is Tayassu tajacu, and its cousins are the white-lipped peccary, which lives in Southern Mexico to Northern South America, and the Chacoan peccary that lives in Bolivia, Argentina, and Paraguay.

If you’re wondering where to shoot for javelina, they thrive in rocky, arid climes like the desert of the southwestern United States in parts of Texas, Arizona, and New Mexico. They prefer areas such as the saguaro desert that offer ample supplies of prickly pears and mesquite. You can also find herds close to desert watering holes and other permanent water sources.

As they are unable to cool down through evaporation like other animals, they tend to remain in shady areas such as under cliffs and caves during the hottest parts of the day and venture out to forage when it is cooler.

Habits

Rapacious omnivores, javelinas will eat almost anything they come across. Their primary food sources are desert plants, but, on occasion, they’ll eat grubs, birds’ eggs, bugs, and reptiles like lizards.

Their favorite plants to munch on include sotol, prickly pear, agave, some types of tubers, and acorns from the scrub oak.

Although they aren’t great for eating, the larger predators like black bears, mountain lions, and jaguars all feast on javelinas from time to time. Bobcat, coyote, and other smaller predators avoid the javelina, perhaps because of the threat of its razor-sharp tusks and unshakeable fighting acumen.

Javelinas are incredibly social animals and stay in groups almost all of the time. This means, when you’re out hunting javelinas, if you see one, there are sure to be more somewhere close by.

Physiology

Javelinas resemble pigs in that they have stout bodies, a snout, bristly hair, and a jutting underbite on their bullet-shaped heads. Although they closely resemble the family of pig and boar, they are very distant cousins, as the genetic split between these species occurred over 30 million years ago.

Mature javelinas weigh between 40 and 60 pounds, and they sport brownish-gray bristles with a highlighted, prominent collar between their shoulders.

They have scent glands, as one of their keenest senses is their sense of smell. This particular physiological detail can help you find javelina, as the musky smell they use to communicate and mark their territories is quite pungent and leaves a trail.

They have incredibly poor eyesight compared to their super sense of smell. Because of this, javelinas often feed at dusk in the thick brush where they don’t need good vision to find sustenance.

How to Find a Javelina

Some clues indicating the presence of prey while you’re hunting javelinas are signs of feeding. You’ll see chewed-up prickly pear paddles, shredded agave and sotol, and cow patties that have been rooted. You’ll also see turned-up ground where the javelinas have snuffled through the first layer of undergrowth.

Under rocky overhangs, in tucked-away places in the shade and out of the desert sun, you’ll often find evidence of javelinas bedding down. You can also sniff them out, as their powerful musk glands, located at both their hind ends and heads, exude a pungent, telltale olfactory clue.

How to Stalk a Javelina

The primary tactic of javelina hunting is to spot them, and then stalk them. Glassing, or using your binoculars to spot your prey, should be your focus when hunting javelinas. Set up optics from a high vantage point for the best view and for effective concealment. They camouflage well against the backdrop of the desert, and it may take a while for you to spot a group.

Once you find a group of javelinas, your main tactic should be to play to the wind. Javelinas rely on their sense of smell, so you have to mask your own scent as much as possible so they don’t get wind of your presence.

Once you get within 50 yards of the javelinas, take into account their hearing and eyesight. Although not the strongest of their senses, javelinas can still see and hear you. If you are spotted, freeze for a few minutes. Javelinas have very short attention spans. They will usually forget about you if you are completely still for a while.

How to Bag a Javelina

Javelinas respond with vigor to a distress call of another javelina. Being social animals, they react with a speed and ferocity unmatched by other big game. A call blown outside of 75 yards might not elicit much of a response—but call within range of the bristly creatures, and they’ll come running.

When you’re lining up a shot at individual javelina, remember that their vitals are small, so you must be very accurate to make an ethical shot. Sometimes, a bullet will go through one javelina and hit the one behind it as well.

These aren’t huge animals, but they are some of the fiercest prey animals many hunters have come up against. Match your weapon to your prey and come in close to set up the perfect shot.

Once you’ve bagged javelina, take the time to remove its scent glands, both fore and aft. If left untouched, the scent glands can flavor the meat and hide, leaving a foul taste and odor.

If you want to eat your trophy, you will have to dress the animal in the field to get rid of those scent glands. Once this is accomplished, treat the javelina much like a boar in butchering and cooking techniques. Slow roasted javelina or a javelina stew both make the most of this fierce desert animal.

Although on the smaller side, javelinas are tough little beasts that offer a lot of challenges when spotting them, stalking them, and bagging them. They have a tenacious spirit and razor-sharp tusks that make any hunters’ heart rate speed up.