You thought that you knew your hunting and fishing terms, but you were wrong.

Whether you have a fishing rod in your hands, big game hunting, slinging flies, or sharing in an upland hunt, you need to know what your hunting and fishing terms are. Sometimes the English language can fool us into believing that a slang term is actually the real phrase, and vice versa.

We’re declaring it an open season to jump on your hunting buddies and let them know that what they are saying really means something else. Maybe you’re in the bar discussing game birds or bag limits, or maybe you’re talking with your tree hugging cousin who wonders why you’re hunting with an “assault rifle.”

Face it, a lot of us have been using these hunting and fishing terms wrong all this time and didn’t know it. Here’s where the rubber meets the road and you can find out what you’ve been missing.

Keep these in mind when your know-it-all friend starts talking in the blind.

Snort: The sound you make when your buddy swears it was a 10-point that he missed.

Wheeze: The sound you make dragging a deer through the woods.

Grunt: The sound you make when you see that gun you’ve been wanting is discontinued.

Rabbit-in-distress: When you step on your wife’s ankle biting dog’s tail.

Crankbait: That expensive bass boat with all the bells and whistles.

Buzzbait: Those ice cold brewskis in the cooler.

Buck-in-rut lure: That new tight dress your girl is wearing.

Honker: That jerk at the boat launch that’s totally impatient.

High-ball: Whisky or rum?

Swamp donkey: What you call your buddy when his new 4×4 gets stuck.

Tree rat: That dude sitting in your stand.

Smokepole: That stick of salami/pepperoni you put in your backpack.

Kicker: When the kid finds out he can’t go fishing with you.

Kentucky windage: When you aim a little right or left of where you’re trying to walk after too much bourbon at deer camp.

Robin Hood: That dude pitching the timber that can’t miss.

Burn a hole in the yellow: Peeing in the snow.

Glassing: The reason why a dude wears dark sunglasses to the beach with his girl or wife.

Bluebill: What your buddy gets when he falls in the water in January.

Chuckle: What you do before, during, and after your buddy falls in that cold water.

Boar: That dude that can’t stop talking about his skill.

Deep diver: That guy that can’t stop telling fishing lies.

Brow tines: That buddy that always wears his shades on his forehead.

Bull: What you’re thinking when your buddy tells his fishing stories.

Call-shy: When you can’t get up the nerve to call that gal you met at the boat show.

Cape: What your buddy thinks he wears when he scores a nice buck.

Gobbler: What your buddy turns into over that first fresh venison steak of the year.

Confidence decoy: Your pal who’s the wingman tonight.

Cow: What your wingman is helping you to avoid.

Pointer: That dude your friend brought along that wants to try every spot he sees.

Furbearer: What you didn’t know about that guy until he took his shirt off at camp.

Shaker: Your buddy when he sees a buck.

Greenhead: What your buddy gets when your buck is bigger.

Gutshot: That feeling you get when the neighbor scores the buck you’ve been hunting all year.

Inside spread: The distance between you and the other guy working a shoreline.

Jump shoot: When you come up too fast to another angler working a spot.

Limb saver: When your friend helps you drag your deer.

Locator call: When you have to call from the driveway to wake your buddy up early because he stayed out too late.

Pass shoot: What that one buddy seems to do every time you kick a deer by him.

Quiver: Every time that same guy sees a deer.

Shed: What your wallet does every time you go into the hunting/fishing store.

Trapline: That aisle in the outdoor store where everything is marked 50% off.

Shock gobble: What your wife does when you get home from the hunting/fishing store.

Butt out tool: What you say to that friend who wants to know where you caught that bucket of crappie.

There’s a method to our madness when it comes to the outdoor phrases that we use every day. The big fish that got away is usually just a couple of words from the real definition and you didn’t even know it. Now you have the ammunition to block out that one loud guy in your group and make sure that when the trap closes, it’s just his mouth you’re talking about!

You may even be able to get around the game warden with some of this wily jargon, but don’t bet on it. The next time that you’re on a fishing trip or out with the long bow remind your buddy that sometimes a diving duck is really just that thing you do when the guy in the front of the boat casts without looking behind him!

You’ll be better off for it.

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NEXT: TAKE MY QUIZ TO SEE IF YOU ARE INDEED AN OCDH: OBSESSIVE COMPULSIVE DEER HUNTER

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Put glide baits to use when you find that next big fall blitz of bass and blues.

There’s nothing quite like standing on shore with hundreds or thousands of fish blasting bait out of the water mere feet in front of me. The energy, chaos and visual aspects of an inshore “blitz” are intoxicating. Conversely, often the most frustrating days fishing are when I have a seemingly endless glut of fish in front of me but I cannot catch a single one! Sometimes I could almost reach down and grab them, but cast after cast, they snub my offering and leave me ready to throw my rod into the surf. A similar scenario, albeit somewhat less frustrating, is when I see large fish slashing and attacking bait, yet all I’m catching is small schoolies.

This seems to happen more than one would think. If you have a few years fishing the salt under your belt, you may have experienced it. However, I always believe there’s a way around it; after all, the fish are there and feeding with reckless abandon, so the hard part is taken care of. Yet, despite the fish not taking their offering, some anglers insist on just casting the same plug or two over and over into the melee, hoping something will change. What they are thinking I can only guess, but I believe they assume that because the fish are feeding aggressively that it’s just a matter of time before they catch something.

This is not a good tactic. Waiting for the fish to cooperate is inviting the skunk—you need to go on the offensive and figure out what they want. Even if I’m catching a fish every handful of casts in a blitz, I’m not content. If the fish are going bananas at my feet, I should be hooking up every cast. One way I have recently begun to increase my catch numbers in these classic fall blitzes is to fish glide baits heavily. Sometimes called stick baits, these plugs are the perfect blitz busting plugs.

Glide baits originated in freshwater fishing—specifically musky fishing—and they quickly became popular with fishermen at the Cape Cod Canal. While they have proven to be extremely successful for anglers up and down the coast, they remain somewhat underutilized by the masses. So much so, I believe I’m letting you in on a personal secret that allows me to out-fish poppers, tins and swimmers by as much as 20 to 1.

Why Glide Baits?

First, glide baits are versatile. Many assume they are only good for areas with current. This is inaccurate. I use them everywhere: on sand beaches, in boulder fields, in big surf, and calm backwaters. The glide baits I use can be fished many different ways: fast and loose, or slow and low, and everything in-between. This is a huge advantage over the ubiquitous poppers used by most anglers during day time blitzes—glide baits can be implemented essentially anywhere, at any time. During a daytime blitz, I start by fishing glide baits with a moderate retrieve and a rapid tip action similar to how I work a pencil, but with smaller jerks of the rod. This puts the glide bait just below the surface, or waking on the surface, making a lot of commotion. Worked with slower tip action, the plug will begin to shoot rhythmically back and forth subsurface, like an underwater spook plug. The action will vary with the specific plug you’re using, but this hyper-erratic motion seems to really draw the fish when surface plugs and swimmers are coming up short.

I also rely heavily on working both small and large glide baits slowly with sharp, random, jerks and twitches. This seems especially effective if stripers and blues are on bunker, or larger baits, where the predators sit below the forage fish waiting for the injured individuals to fall out of the school. Casting a glide bait out, letting it sink for a moment (or longer!) and then working it slowly with erratic twitches, seems to be irresistible to cow bass, and I have landed more than a few big fish using this technique. Just hold on when you twitch it, because that’s nearly always when the hit comes, and it is often violent!

Next, glide baits are deep, big-profile plugs. Even if you’re using the small 1-ounce Sebile Stick Shadd, it is relatively deep for its length. This is in contrast to many other plugs like the SP minnow or a pencil popper, which are slender profiles. This can be a huge advantage if the fish are on deep-bodied baits such as peanut bunker, adult bunker, snapper blues, mullet, etc. However, even if they aren’t, the deeper profile can attract the attention necessary to garner a strike when the surf is a proverbial soup of bait and predators. For example, I was on a spearing blitz last year where the fish were especially picky. Poppers and bucktails were useless, and while I could get them to hit an SP Minnow, the cast-to-hook-up ratio was only about 10:1. Frustrated, I put on a small glide bait and began hooking-up every cast. In this situation, I believe the glide bait was cutting through the noise and making itself seen.

Further, the fat, large profile of a glide bait seems to attract bigger fish. This past September I was fishing a blitz where bass were attacking silver-dollar sized peanut bunker. The bass would roll into the surf riding the white water of a wave, and I only had a short moment to cast to them before they sped back out to deeper water. I started with a small spook plug, and I was immediately into schoolies on every cast. After catching a couple dozen, I began to get bored, and decided to try a glide bait. My first cast was rewarded with a fish pushing 15 pounds, and I landed several more to low-teens. This repeated for three days in a row—schoolies on spooks and poppers, bigger fish on glide baits. I would have had no idea if I hadn’t decided to try the glide bait. It always pays to experiment.

Another key to the blitz-busting capacity of the glide bait is they cast phenomenally. They are no tin, but they cast about as far as a comparable popper. And the larger sizes cast as well as the smaller sizes if used with properly-sized gear. This makes them especially effective if you find yourself on an adult bunker blitz, but the fish are on an outer bar, or if you’re casting into a strong on-shore wind. While a metal lip might be a perfect plug when the fish are on big bunker, good luck casting one into a 30mph on-shore wind. And if the fish won’t take a popper, glide baits offer a similar profile as a metal lip and easily cast twice or three times the distance. Add in the versatility in which you can fish them, and you’ll be hard-pressed to find a plug that is better suited for these “bait on the bar” situations.

Finally, glide baits offer another advantage in blitz situations: they can be fished with single trebles or two inline hooks. Whichever you use, it makes no difference in the action or fishablility of the plug, and may even slightly increase the casting distance. When I’m fortunate enough to be in a blitz situation, I want to be able to get the fish off the plug as quickly and safely as possible so I can get back in on the action fast. Fishing with a single hook makes releases much easier on the angler and fish. Wasting time unhooking rear trebles from smaller fish is especially frustrating, and has led to more than a few injuries to my hands and the fish.

Glide Bait Options

I mainly rely on readily-available plastic glide baits. In my plug bag you’ll find the following: the suspending 1-ounce Sebile Stick Shadd, the 1-1/2-ounce Savage Gear Freestyler, the 3-1/4-ounce Freestyler (a personal favorite), and the 3- and 4-ounce slow-sink Sebile Stick Shadds. Sebile offers a staggering array of sizes and weights, and I have used others than those listed, but find the above to be my favorites. It is easy to pack several of these plugs as even the largest slides between the tubes in most surf bags.

A few notes about these plugs. The small Sebile is not through-wired so one must be cautious with drag pressure. I’ve yet to break one, but I’ve bent the hanger substantially even on smaller fish. However, it is the perfect peanut imitator, and worth its small space in your bag. The Savage Gear Freestyler plugs are overall my favorite. They are inexpensive, come with two sets of strong forged hooks and have a thick profile that produces excellent action. For me, they are the more versatile of the two brands. Savage is coming out with a new line of Mackerel glide baits this fall that look phenomenal, but I have yet to test them. The larger Sebiles in slow-sink still sink faster than the Savages, but they cast better, and the increased sink rate makes them useful in a strong surf or current sweep. The fast-sink models are less useful where I fish, but have their time and place in Nor’Easter storm situations.

In addition to the glide baits produced by Sebile and Savage Gear as noted above, several other manufacturers produce similar plugs in plastic form. The Yo-Zuri Diving Slider was produced with pelagics in mind so it has the strength to stand up to most inshore gamefish and produces a great sub-surface side-to-side swim. Rapala produces several glide baits in the X-Rap Saltwater SubWalk, X-Rap Twitchin’ Minnow and X-Rap Long Cast Shallow, Williamson makes the SubSurface Pro, Strategic Angler produces some great crossover glides that work both inshore and off, and Tsunami will be introducing the Surface Striker this winter. On the wooden side, glide baits have become the “in” lure for garage builders to produce the last few years. Several options include glides produced by Fatty Lures, Loki Lures, Surf Asylum, RM Smith and others.

The list goes on and on for plastic and wooden glide baits, so don’t be afraid to try different manufacturers to see what works best for you; just make sure you have a few of these versatile plugs in your bag for the last of the late fall blitzes!

Ahoy, mateys! It’s Alvin Reyes, the car guru and word wizard. When it comes to sailing, the only thing better than a gentle breeze and a cold drink is having your trusty ride to pull your boat out of the water.

But let me tell you, towing a boat ain’t no walk in the park. You need a solid trailer and some heavy-duty tires that won’t let you down. As an automotive engineer, car review specialist, and all-around tire enthusiast, I know the ins and outs of finding the best boat trailer tires.

Trust me, choosing the wrong boat trailer tires can spell disaster for you and your vessel. That’s why I’ve put my skills to the test and scoured the market for the best options out there. Whether you’re a seasoned sailor or just getting your feet wet, my list of top boat trailer tires will have you cruising with confidence.

So, weigh anchor and join me on this tire-tastic journey. Let’s find the perfect tires for your boat trailer and ensure a safe and smooth voyage!

The Best Boat Trailer Tires In-depth Reviews Of 2024

To find the best tires for boat trailer below, I tested and evaluated many different models for almost two years. Each of these passed my matching tests with impeccable performance.

Carlisle Radial Trail HD Tires

Best Choice

I have tried the Radial Trail HD for various purposes, including towing boats, towing heavy trucks, or regular tires.

No matter what needs it serves, the product works reasonably. I was also surprised to know that the tire has so many functions.

Despite impressive compatibility, the Radial Trail HD’s boat trailer performance has decreased. I’ve tried many different tire models to transport my small boat.

The results are often quite bad because the vehicle is not moving very steadily.

It constantly can’t keep the balance to drag a ton of metal behind. Without the support features, the load on the tires is exceptionally high.

Since equipping this Carlisle tire model, losing control has no longer appeared. It is all thanks to the solid sidewalls and solid construction available to the product.

Durability is an advantage I cannot ignore in this version. According to some measurements I have taken, the tires wear very evenly. The feature has limited asymmetry while increasing tire life.

The average tire pressure in everyday driving is always lower than most in-class versions. With reduced pressure on the surface, it will be easier for you to operate the Radial Trail HD. The protective ozone layer will be the most effective barrier if you move in hot weather.

Most versions at high load ranges do their job well. However, low-load options have much worse performance, which can cause unexpected damage.

Pros

• High stability
• Stable durability
• Suitable for many purposes
• Come with a protective ozone tire
• Medium pressure for ease of control
• Not become useless after carrying the boat

Cons

• Low-quality low-load versions.

Goodyear Endurance

Best Runner Up

The Goodyear Endurance is a choice that balances many different factors.

Focusing on many characteristics at once is extremely risky. Fortunately, the manufacturer has integrated many elements to create this quality Endurance.

If I had to choose only one most important feature for a boat trailer tire, braking performance is always my top priority. It would be a nightmare to rush along with a large boat without stopping quickly. To meet this requirement, Goodyear has integrated into the product many components to reduce braking distance.

I tested the brakes with boat drag and not on dry roads. Finally, the parameters show that its stopping distance at 50 mph is 18m and 23m, respectively.

On wet roads, tires do even better with the help of Hydro Grip technology. After I stepped on the brake, the tire quickly decelerated to zero in just 24m. Meanwhile, its controllability remained undiminished.

Its surface is harder than many other tire models of the same type. According to the information provided by the manufacturer, they incorporate Kevlar technology, a high-strength fiber, into the production process.

I tested pointed objects to impact the surface to attest to their performance. No matter how hard I tried, I couldn’t leave too much damage to Endurance.

The available rolling resistance of the tire is relatively low. So my Goodyear tires help the car save much more gas.

Sizing with Goodyear Endurance is pretty straightforward, with so many options available. The problem, however, is that their prices are relatively high to reach.

Pros

• Many sizes
• Energy saving
• Stable dry brake
• Harder and more durable
• The wet brake is pretty good
• Stability control in wet conditions

Cons

• Expensive

Trailer King RST Radial Tire

Best Mid Price

In the mid-range price range, it is difficult for any product to beat Trailer King RST Radial. This model has more great features than it costs you to own.

Its performance is high compared to other boat trailer tires. The better tire performance is not surprising with a large and firm center groove design.

Through stability and cornering tests, I have corroborated this information. The results also show that the tire grips exceptionally well with low deflection, even through S-corners.

Traction is a feature that I think you should pay attention to when considering the Trailer King RST Radial tire. The particular nylon layer covering the outside of the surface has dramatically improved its strength.

The more efficient the tire, the more friction and traction force is generated. So, I confidently set up N to pull the heavy boat behind.

Whether the environment is extremely hot or rainy, this Trailer King product is still easy to overcome. The raised shoulder design helps the tire quickly cool down the surface temperature in high-temperature areas.

Through a few simple measurements, I discovered that this product could lower up to 10 degrees Celsius in a short time.

Meanwhile, the drains with a deep design easily remove excess water clinging to deep water areas. With no more frictional fluid, the rate of hydration reduces.

Most of the details on the tire have a good finish except for the sidewall. The lack of performance here significantly impacts the product’s anti-vibration ability.

Pros

• Good grip
• Average price
• High stability
• Impressive heat resistance
• Anti-hydrogenation grooves
• Performance beyond expectations

Cons

• Sidewall needs improvement

Carlisle Sport Trail LH

Best for Design

Design is the most outstanding advantage of Carlisle Sport Trail LH. So, its durability and performance are always adequate to serve many purposes.

The Sport Trail LH is to handle a wide range of vehicles and trailers. I’ve tried the tires on several other cars and found that the performance isn’t too much of a difference. Even with agricultural tractor models, the product is still the perfect choice to ensure stability.

Heat is the leading cause of tire wear and tear. That’s why Carlisle integrated heat reduction into the product design.

The temperature difference between dynamic and static states is not too high. This result shows the effectiveness of the excellent temperature stabilization mechanism.

This version also features heavy sidewalls and an impressive tread design to increase stability and optimize durability. Its low rolling resistance markedly minimizes the reverse effect of force on the tires.

In comparison, its lifespan is also significantly superior to that of similar models. In a year of testing, I never had to bring it to a service center.

It’s not too difficult to find a suitable Carlisle Sport Trail model. There are many sizes and load ranges to consider. Not many products have such a large selection available to the user.

Finally, its surface spikes are not too thick. Therefore, you cannot tow models beyond the maximum weight. Some hazards may arise if you still attempt to carry out the carriage.

Pros

• Durable
• Many different options
• Built-in cooling function
• Suitable for use with many vehicles

Cons

• Can’t load beyond capacity

Hankook Vantra Trailer

Best for Durability

The Hankook Vantra is a boat trailer tire known for its outstanding durability.

This product not only possesses a durable construction but also comes with many other impressive features.

Only with the naked eye have I recognized the details that increase the durability of the tire surface. The most prominent are the prominent complex pattern blocks and deep-cut grooves.

With the help of these factors, I confidently towed the boat through more challenging terrain. The increased stability gives me more peace of mind.

In addition to the characteristics we observe, Vantra Trailer also possesses many features to optimize durability in construction. Among them are some prominent names, such as folding belt tape or high-strength bead cord.

Zig-zag grooves on the outer tire surface to increase durability and stability also have a drainage function. The comprehensive design and increased length come from a unique arrangement that prevents liquid from settling on the surface.

Without standing water, the friction force will have a more even distribution. Thereby, it is increasing the wet performance of the Hankook Vantra Trailer.

Via a trip in the rain, I had the opportunity to verify the accuracy of these statements. The Vantra Trailer does not have too many sizes to choose from. This lack of diversity will create some difficulties for users during use.

Pros

• Stable on the move
• Impressive durability
• High wet performance
• Integrate many modern details

Cons

• Too few options

Power King Towmax STR II

Best for Budget

Few boat trailer tires strike the perfect balance between price and quality, like the Power King Towmax STR II. This factor makes this product suitable for many different users.

Towmax STR II is 30 to 40% cheaper than most other competing products. This number will increase if you buy tires on sale occasions.

The big difference saves us another significant amount of money. With the same amount of money, but with STR II, I can buy a complete set of 4 tires while many other names are only 3.

The durability of this cheap product impressed me. With Power King Towmax STR II, we can ultimately move stably within 60,000 miles.

Even with more expensive products, this number is still relatively large. You will surely be pleased about this particular element.

The load capacity of Towmax STR II is also quite impressive, especially with a relatively low-priced tire. I borrowed a friend’s boat to test its stability under heavy loads. The metal block weighs twice as much as the model I’m using, but the tires don’t seem to lose performance.

I feel the car moves better, even under heavy loads. After taking measurements, I realized that it was the traction of the tires that affected the controls.

During operation, I still have some mechanical problems with the tire from time to time. Although it’s not too severe, the annoying feeling is inevitable.

Pros

• Low price
• Enduring
• High load capacity
• Suitable customer groups

Cons

• Prone to mechanical problems.

What Is A Boat Trailer Tire?

Boat trailers are specifically to tow boat trailers instead of focusing solely on performance. Like many other transport tires, these products also strengthen sidewalls. With this change, the tire will withstand higher internal loads while maintaining stability.

Boat trailers often come with features to help balance the impact on the vehicle.

The weight distribution of the boat is not uniform. So moving significantly when changing direction will be more prone to risks. The force balance will greatly help the driver in such complicated cases as above.

Types of Boat Trailer Tires

Boat trailers have two distinct ratings, radial and bias. Each tire line has its advantages and disadvantages. We will base on these factors to make a choice.

Radial

Radial is a tired line that favors variety. The experience that radial products bring to users is the same in many different terrains. From flat areas to areas of instability, they all share a unique outcome.

This product line is also famous for the comfort it brings to the driver on the go. High durability is also a factor that we cannot ignore. However, the repair process will be highly complicated when the radial tire has a problem.

Bias

Bias tires are the right choice for us to use on unstable terrain and many obstacles. The unique simple construction makes the product very easy to repair if problems or errors are encountered while moving.

In return, the durability of bias tires is not too high, and the performance on other surfaces is also quite bad.

Key Features To Choose Boat Trailer Tires

Size and capacity, lifespan, durability, speed, and traction are the five factors that I think you should pay attention to when choosing boat trailer tires.

Of course, many characteristics make up the quality of a tire. But to save time and money, you need to focus on the following items.

Size and Capacity

Size and load capacity are two critical factors when choosing any model. Usually, tires with a larger size will have a higher load capacity and vice versa.

However, you must choose the right size first because if the cake is too big or too small, the consequences will be enormous.

With capacity, you should buy products with parameters 20 to 30% higher than standard requirements. Owning tires with high bearing capacity but not in use will cause unnecessary waste.

Lifespan

Life is a factor that has a lot to do with the ability to operate a vehicle for a long time. In general, if possible, you should invest in long-life tires. Over time, we will realize the advantages of these options over cheaper tires but less life.

Durability

The more durable the tire, the better it is worth buying, so keep this conclusion in mind every time you decide or review a product. The durability of tires also plays a big part in maintaining performance and safety while on the move.

Speed

It is challenging to find boat trailer tires at high speed.

The average specs of these products are usually between 60 and 70mph. With towing a heavy boat, moving quickly is not a good idea.

Traction

Traction is the most important factor when traveling in wet and rainy areas.

If you travel in such places, you must choose tires that produce above-average traction to avoid hazards.

Of course, impressive traction usually only appears on more high-tech versions of tires. Therefore, you will sometimes have to spend more money on an ideal model. I think it’s worth investing in safer and more stable boat transport.

FAQs

Final Thoughts

With my real experiences, I have recommended the top 8 best boat trailer tires for 2024 and some things to consider to choose a suitable tire model for you.

From my perspective, the Carlisle Radial Trail HD Tires can satisfy you in terms of overall perfection, while the Hankook Vantra Trailer offers incredible durability in the long run.

What is your final choice? Don’t forget to leave a comment to let me know.

Thank you for reading!

Ranks Of The Most Worth Buying Tires

Choosing the best HF Ham Radio for off-grid or grid-down survival communications is challenging. In this blog, we go through key features every HF survival radio should have. We also take a look at 5 of the best low-power, and energy efficient QRP portable ham radios, for off-grid and grid-down preparedness communications.

If you have not already seen my video entitled Grid Down Comms, I would highly recommend it. If you have seen it, consider sharing it to those just getting started in ham radio for preparedness.

Hello Operators. After the devastating earthquake and mobile phone grid failure in Turkey and Syria, an Operator reached out on Twitter, asking about the best HF radio for grid down or off grid survival. In this video and associated blog post, I do my best to highlight the pros and cons of my top HF radio picks, seen on the channel.

Why an HF Survival Strategy?

The preparedness community has been fixated on a single type of survival communications (tactical comms). We can call it tactical comms, fire team comms, squad level communications, … This type of communications is usually done over VHF or UHF on FM or encrypted digital voice, using various types of handheld portable radios.That type of communication is great once your group is all in sync. That is to say, tactical communications with short-range handheld radios only functions, once your crew has rallied. Without that initial mobilization, there is no way to coordinate short-range comms. Before the group musters, a wider coverage area of communications is required, to coordinate the rallying point. That wider range coverage is provided by HF NVIS!

The following video goes through key features every survival radio should have. It also summarizes the pros and cons of each of these radios for grid-down or off-grid survival. For a full review of each radio, check the videos posted later in this blog.

Requirements

Asking “Which is the best radio for survival?” can often leaad to many wrong answers to the question. A better question might be, “Which radio best fits our survival radio requirements?”. If nothing else, this question might lead us to much better answers. The reason is, in a disaster, grid down scenario, operating off grid, resources are not easy to come by. A radio well suited to a POTA activation might be the “worst-case scenario” for a grid-down disaster. Consider this, charging a radio on a normal day is easy and uneventful. Charging or powering a radio in a grid-down scenario, while only carrying what you have on your back, makes things much more difficult. For this reason, we have a set of important requirements, any radio chosen as our HF Survival Radio should have. Let’s go through them.

The following list includes the most important features, any HF Survival Radio should have:

• Low current consumption on RX & efficient TX consumption
• Minimum of 10 watts output, 5 watts is ok
• Band coverage
  • Best case band coverage 160M – 70cm
  • Acceptable band coverage 80M – 10M
  • Bare bones band coverage 80M – 20M
• Built-in audio interface for data comms
• Internal battery & fast charging
• Ability to charge the internal battery, while using and powering the radio
• Daylight readable display.

We can also expand the list to include these key yet often overlooked features.

• Built-in adjustable filters
• DSP, noise reduction, notch filter, …
• Standby mode for display
• Speech compressor built-in
• Easily accessible data port

Rigs mentioned in the video

The following radios are not an exhaustive list. I do not have a (tr)uSDX or Elecraft radios for demonstration. The (tr)uSDX is on the way! I do have the radios which have been demonstrated and reviewed on the channel over the years. This list includes Xiegu, Yaesu, Icom, and Lab599.

XIegu G90

The G90 is the our budget HF radio. Ultimately, the only things missing are the audio interface and external battery. At 20 watts output in a package similar to the Yaesu FT-818, this is an attractive option for someone able to live with the limited band coverage.

Xiegu X6100

The X6100 is portable portable, full featured radio. 10 watts output, built-in audio interface, filters and DSP built-in, … It suffers from slow firmware development from Xiegu, but open-source firmware has recently become available. Internal battery life is good, It can also be charged and powered externally while the radio is in use.

Yaesu FT-818

The Yaesu FT-81x is a 160M – 70cm all-mode portable HF radio, with a small form factor. It is the oldest but best-supported QRP radio by the aftermarket. Discontinued in 2024, but is still available on the used market. Definitely needs the filter fitted (if you can find one). I would suggest an external battery for the 81x. The internal Ni-MH battery pack is heavy and lacks energy density. The Windcamp Li-Ion battery pack with higher energy density than the AA Ni-MH, would be an excellent upgrade. For data it requires a Digirig, and works well with it. If you have the 817nd model, fit the RTC for more reliable data.

Lab599 TX500

The Lab599 TX-500 is the only “rugged” radio available from ham radio manufacturers. Milled from a single block of aluminum for strength and durability. The TX-500 is also comfortable in the rain, snow, and below-freezing operations. Its small modular form factor and ergonomic design are greatly appreciated. It lacks an audio interface but a Digirig can be easily fitted. Battery packs from both Lab599 and DIY599 are incoming and worth-while.The TX-500 is the only solution for those wanting a green radio option, in a pocket portable package.

Icom IC-705

The Icom IC-705 is the only FT-818 alternative with 160M – 70cm band coverage. It also has filters, DSP, notch, .. already fitted making it a full featured radio. The internal GPS is a nice touch, but can only be accessed by USB cable. Still, it allows us to leave a pocket GPS at home. The large screen is easy to read, but precautions must be taken to protect it during transport. Although larger than the other rigs in this post, all of its features means less to buy and carry as added features. This is the best equipped but least rugged out of the radio mentioned in this post. For difficult field work, I would recomment the Peovi full cage wrap and polycarbonate display protector. Having dropped my IC-705 twice without incident, the Peovi cage was an excellent inestment.

Based on many of the comments coming in, many operators still don’t understand my “Survival Radio” philosophy. Asynchronous messaging is at the core of my group’s communications strategy. A radio, tablet, and wire antenna make up the core of this all-mode, data station. Reducing capabilities eg a CW-only station, would reduce size and weight, but also irreconcilably reduce operational capability. Therefore, my station is made up of:

• HF Radio
• Microsoft Surface Tablet
• Wire multi-band antenna

Microsoft Surface

My primary computer for data mode communications is the Microsoft Surface Go 2. Despite its Windows operating system, the Surface Go 2 has performed flawlessly since taking it into use. Much easier to deploy and support than a Raspberry Pi, the Surface Go 2 is the best portable data mode comms investment, made in a very long time.

Digirig Mobile audio interface

For any radio used other than the Icom IC-705 or the Xiegu x6100, I use the Digirig Mobile. There is no point buying any other audio interface for man-portable ops! It is small, lightweight, has audio and cat control, has cross-platform compatibility, and excellent customer support. Our audio interface should not be as large as our radio. for man-portable ops, anything larger than a DigiRig is ridiculous!

Antennas strategy

I recently published a post and video entitled, Portable HF Antenna Strategy for off grid comms”. That video and blog correctly point out how NVIS for regional communication is ignored by most ham radio manufacturers. In fact, NVIS is more of an afterthought, as the majority of ham radio operators spend most of their time on the DX bands. Sadly, the emcomm and preparedness communities are definitely “niche” markets. I was able to find excellent options from Tim Ortiz N9SAB, who makes lightweight multiband antennas for man-portable ops.

Looking for other ways to support the channel?

Support the channel by shopping on ebay, at Battery Hookups or GigaParts.For GigaParts and Battery Hookup, use my callsign for a small discount.Alternatively, drop a little something in the TipJar. It really makes a difference.

• TipJar https://oh8stn.net/TipJar
• GigaParts: https://oh8stn.net/GigaParts
• Shop at Battery Hookup: https://oh8stn.net/batteryhookup
• Shop at eBay (affiliate link) : https://oh8stn.net/ebay
• Buy an N9SAB Antenna https://ebay.us/OVVZcG (eBay affiliate link)

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Deer – also known as venison – liver may not be a staple in your kitchen. We’ll make sure you are prepared whenever you decide to cook up a delicious deer liver pate.

This article will cover how to tell if deer liver is bad and other common questions surrounding its storage.

Signs That Deer Liver Is Bad

Brown Color

If the deer liver has changed from brown to red, then it has gone bad.

Liver should be a rich, deep red. The liver will also contract a metal-like shine when it starts to deteriorate. Although, this can be hard to notice as the liver is already a little shiny. It is best to look out for dramatic color changes.

As a general rule any form of discoloration is a sign the liver has spoiled. The liver will need to be immediately disposed of.

Sour Smell

Deer liver will start to smell when it begins to expire or deteriorate. It is common for the liver to contract a pungent, sour smell when it has gone bad.

A fresh deer liver has a non-distinct, semi sweet smell. Any smell that is different from this is a sign the liver can no longer be eaten.

Slimy Texture

The texture of deer liver begins to change when it has gone bad. A thick slime can appear on the liver when it has gone bad or has started to deteriorate.

This occurs because the liver is breaking down. If this happens, it is likely that it has been too long since the deer was killed and the liver is losing freshness. Alternatively, the liver may have been exposed to the elements, in particular, heat.

Do not consume the deer liver if you notice any of these signs.

What Do White Spots on Deer Liver Mean

White spots on deer liver are a symptom of liver fluke or tularemia. Liver fluke is a name for the parasites that infest the liver. Liver fluke can happen to both animals (like deer) and humans.

Tularemia is an infectious disease that attacks the internal organs of animals. Tularemia also presents as white spots in a deer’s liver.

It’s really important to inspect the deer liver for white spots before you consume it. White spots mean that the liver is not safe for human consumption.

If you do eat liver that has been infected with liver fluke or tularemia you may become unwell. Cooking can kill bacteria, however, it is better to be safe than sorry.

What Happens if You Eat Bad Deer Liver

Eating spoiled meat can make you very unwell. It contains pathogenic bacteria which are the cause of food poisoning and other food related illnesses. Bad deer liver should be immediately disposed of.

It’s good to note that a lot of problems derive from the freshness of the meat. To protect the liver (and yourself) make sure you refrigerate as soon as you have purchased or killed the meat.

Similarly, throw away any liver that has sat around for too long (regardless of whether it is in the fridge, freezer, or on the counter).

Can You Eat Deer Liver Raw

Technically you can eat deer liver raw. Although, medical practitioners do advise against it. This is because deer liver contains pathogenic bacteria like hepatitis e, salmonella, and campylobacter, which can make you very unwell.

It is best practice to thoroughly cook deer liver before you eat it. Cooking will immediately kill any bacteria in the liver.

Raw liver has an overpowering metallic taste to it due to myoglobin from the deer. You’re not missing out on much, it’s not even that nice to eat raw!

How to Clean Deer Liver

Before cooking, freezing, or refrigeration, you will need to clean the deer liver. Deer liver is a notoriously dirty cut of meat. It has a lot of blood, slime, and other moisture attached to it.

The more excess you can remove from the liver, the better it will taste. Follow these steps for a thorough clean;

1. Slice the deer liver into bite sized chunks.
2. Remove any grisly bits attached to the liver.
3. Dissolve two tablespoons of salt in a bowl of water.
4. Place the liver chunks into the water.
5. Place the bowl of water with liver in the fridge.
6. Leave to soak for a couple of hours.
7. Pat dry with paper towels.
8. The liver is now ready to be cooked

How Long Does Deer Liver Last?

On the Counter

Deer liver (both raw and cooked) can be left on the countertop for up to two hours. Raw, exposed meat can easily spoil at room temperature. Do not eat or cook deer liver that has been left on the counter for longer than 2 hours.

In the Fridge

Raw deer liver should only be kept in the fridge for 1-2 days. You can keep cooked deer liver in the fridge for 3-4 days (this also applies to pate). Offal goes off far more quickly than other cuts of meat.

In the Freezer

Deer liver (both raw and cooked) can be frozen for up to 3 months. After 3 months, the liver can deteriorate from freezer burn or it will start to lose its freshness.

Is It Okay to Freeze Deer Liver?

Yes, deer liver can be frozen. Here’s how we like to freeze our deer liver;

1. Drain excess liquid and blood from the liver before you freeze it.
2. Portion and divide your liver into meal sized portions. You don’t want to necessarily thaw the liver at a later date.
3. Wrap your liver in clingfilm and place it into airtight bags. A vacuum sealer is the best option, however, this is not always feasible. At the very least make sure you double wrap the liver. This helps the meat stay as fresh as possible, for as long as possible.
4. Label your liver with the date you placed it in the freezer and the date it should be used. A good rule of thumb is a 3 month expiry.

How to Store Deer Liver

Deer liver can be stored in its original package or an airtight container.

When you first purchase the liver it will come in plastic packaging. It is secure, safe, and convenient to keep the liver in this packaging.

Alternatively, you can remove the original plastic package and store the deer liver in your own airtight container. Find a container that has enough room and a locked lid.

You can also store the liver in a ziplock plastic bag. Both are great options if you want to marinate the liver before cooking.

It is best to place the liver in the fridge immediately after you purchase it. Leaving liver on the counter, while temporarily fine, can encourage product spoilage.

It is better to throw it straight in the fridge to ensure it stays fresh. You should only leave the liver on the counter if you are going to cook it straight away.

Remember, meat should be stored in a refrigerator at a temperature of 10°C. Bacteria can start to grow at temperatures under 10°C. Find the coldest part of your fridge and store the liver close by. If you need to keep the liver past its use by date then the freezer is your best bet.

Health Benefits of Deer Liver

Deer liver is rich in nutrients. It is filled with B12, vitamin A, riboflavin, and copper.

Liver is also high in protein, and low in fat. Deer liver can help you achieve a balanced, filling, and nutrient dense diet.

You should make sure that you get your deer liver from a responsible source.

The liver is a filtering organ which means that some nasty bacteria can sneak onto your plate if you’re not careful!

To Sum Up

Deer liver requires a bit of extra preparation and care than average meat. You should not eat deer liver if you notice any discolouration, slimy textures, sour smells, or white spots. If you see or smell any of these symptoms you should immediately dispose of the liver.

Deer liver can be stored in an airtight container or a ziplock bag. You can store liver on the countertop for up to 2 hours or it can be stored in the fridge for 1-2 days. Alternatively, you can freeze the liver for up to 3 months if you don’t want to cook it straight away.

If there’s one main theme of Cameron Hanes’s memoir Endure: How to Work Hard, Outlast, and Keep Hammering, it’s obsession. He’s obsessed about becoming the best bowhunter. Everything else in his life is devoted to that goal.

How do you become obsessed? Should you even be obsessed? How do you stay consistent and keep hammering away at your goals? That’s what we’re going discuss in the second and final part of my notes based on Cameron’s book. I’ll go through seven Cameron Hanes’s quotes pertaining to perseverance, working hard, and longevity.

Humbleness Leads to Greatness

The rare people who do become truly exceptional at something do so not because they believe they’re exceptional. On the contrary, they become amazing because they’re obsessed with improvement. And that obsession with improvement stems from an unerring belief that they are, in fact, not that great at all. It’s anti-entitlement. People who become great at something become great because they understand that they’re not already great—they are mediocre, they are average—and that they could be so much better.

Cameron’s take on becoming obsessed with improvement reminds me of Zen Buddhism concept of “beginner’s mind.” It’s about cultivating the mindset of a true beginner regardless of your proficiency in a given field.

You’re always humble, open to new ideas, eager to learn, and without any preconceptions. To become exceptional, we need to cultivate such a mindset at all times.

Regardless of how good we are at something, we need to be able to see and acknowledge our weaknesses—and then relentlessly hammer away at them.

We also need to stay humble and never assume we know everything there is to know. Otherwise we’ll never question our beliefs. If we aren’t open to new ideas and new teachers, at one point we’ll stop growing, forever stuck in old ways.

What Is Your Poison?

It’s one thing to find your true passion in life, but what about your poison? What is the one thing or multiple things that hinder your ability to achieve the type of success you desire? Who or what is preventing you from fulfilling your potential? For me it was a number of things: alcohol, toxic people, lack of confidence, average physical ability, and so on.

Addressing the main obstacle that prevents you from achieving success is often more valuable than blindly pushing harder.

For example, let’s imagine that you want to become financially independent. You’ve built a great career or perhaps a lucrative business. But you’re still not rolling in cash. There’s always little money left before the next paycheck.

Sure, you could grind even harder but you won’t make much progress. Why? Because the impediment is that you spend money frivolously. Before you remove this poison from your system, you won’t reach your full potential. Excessive spending will always hold you back, regardless of how hard you push.

If you aren’t making much progress, identify the main culprit. Is it because you aren’t pushing hard enough or is it because there’s a poison coursing through your veins?

Do the Work When Others Are Asleep

My alarm is set for 4:55 a.m. because getting up “in the fours” sounds better in my head than getting up in the fives, more committed, but I never make it to the alarm. I turn it off before it goes off.

I don’t dread getting up; I love it.

It’s another chance to hammer.

I’ve convinced myself that every day is a gift and I get to jump out of bed and go run. I’m usually out the door before 5:00 a.m. (in the fours) to start my fasted cardio run.

As I run down the empty streets and see the houses knowing everyone is asleep inside, in my head I kind of like it. I don’t envy them, because I feel like each morning is another chance to sacrifice a little more. I turn it into a positive and just think how I’m out there working already. That makes me feel good.

The saying goes, the greater the sacrifice, the greater the reward.

There’s something magical about doing the work while everyone else is asleep. You don’t even have to be an early riser to experience it. Many years ago, before I started waking up early, I used to be a night owl. I wrote mostly at night, between 11 pm and 3 am.

These days, my routine is the complete opposite. Instead of quiet late nights I get quiet early mornings.

Working on your goals when others are asleep will fuel your obsession because only the obsessed are so committed.

Only an obsessed person would wake up at 4 am in the middle of winter and go rucking a long distance for the challenge of it (been there, done that).

Only an obsessed person would stay up until 3 am working on the new marketing strategy for their e-commerce business.

Only an obsessed person would wake up a few hours before their shift at the warehouse starts to study a skill that will help them secure a better job.

Being Tired vs Being Weak

There is never a question in my mind asking if I’m going to run today. I’m going to run no matter what. If I’m sick, I’ll still run. If I’m hurt, I’ll go slower. I’ll limp. Nothing will change. A lot of people look for ways or reasons not to run or exercise. Those things don’t even come to my mind anymore.

If I think I’m tired, I remember moments when I’m running hundreds of miles in an ultramarathon and I’m getting an hour of sleep or less. That’s when I should be tired. The other times means I’m just being weak.

There’s no doubt that Cameron Hanes is wired differently than almost every single person on Earth. For most people, a light cold, a little injury, or feeling under the weather means no workouts until they get better. Meanwhile, Cameron only allows himself to feel tired if he’s running hundreds of miles on an hour of sleep. Talk about a wildly different perspective on things.

As a person who’s been dealing with a chronic rotator cuff injury, I adapt my workouts to keep going without aggravating it. If you can work out without making things worse, then do that.

But I don’t think it’s a smart idea to run if your swollen Achilles tendon hurts like hell and feels as if it’s about to burst.

The reason why I’m dealing with a chronic injury is because I ignored my shoulder pain for months. I thought I had to suck it up and be tough like people like David Goggins or Cameron Hanes. In the end, pretending I was indestructible destroyed me.

To be able to progress sustainably over the long term, sometimes the body needs to rest.

My calisthenics coach recently told me that for those who work out a lot, the problem isn’t making excuses but not respecting recovery enough. And taking time off to let your body heal isn’t being weak. Pro athletes do it all the time, sometimes taking months off to heal an injury that unattended could end their career.

Now, don’t get me wrong. I admire Cameron’s endurance and wish my body were as resilient as his is. Yet, in my painful experience, in an effort to imitate people like Hanes or Goggins, we sometimes ignore the warning signals, thinking we can walk them off—only to pay the price later.

As Cameron emphasizes in his book:

I don’t want to discount or minimize anybody’s effort because I know just trying your best every day is a huge deal. I know it’s a hard path at times.

I’m not speaking for anybody else with my running and my training.

This is your journey.

We’re all on different trajectories. I’m at this point and have been doing this now for decades. There are certain ways I prepare, and that’s going to change and evolve. I’m going to continue to get better and I’m going to learn and grow.

All of us are evolving. It’s just a process. A process that takes time.

Even if our goals are the same, our journeys will be different.

If You’re Not Obsessed, You’re Going to Be Mediocre

I get obsessed with things. But as I always say, if you’re not obsessed, you’re going to be mediocre. I don’t care what it is. If you have a healthy, balanced relationship with whatever dream you have, then nobody will ever know your name. That’s the cold, hard truth. Sure, there are those born with the physical capabilities to play in the NBA, but I’m sure LeBron James would say he’s been obsessed with basketball his whole life.

The best of the best usually live and breathe their obsession. Everything in their lives, be it their daily schedule, where they live, who they spend time with, etc. is about getting an edge. You can see it when studying the lives of the greats like Michael Jordan, Nikola Tesla, Pablo Picasso, or Ernest Shackleton.

A healthy, balanced relationship with your dream rarely leads to greatness.

Surfing three times a week for one hour won’t cut it if you want to become a pro surfer.

Studying physics a few hours a week won’t cut it if you want to become a renowned physicist.

Writing a few hundred words a week won’t cut if you want to become an exceptional writer.

The relationship we have with our goals says a lot about the level of success we’ll be able to achieve in them.

For example, I run once a week. When I compare running to writing—which I practice every day—it’s clear to see that I’ll never become an exceptional runner. I may have a shot at becoming an exceptional writer because my relationship with it is much closer to an obsession than in the case of running. But running is not my priority. It’s just an accessory skill.

What is your level of dedication to your goals? There’s nothing wrong with prioritizing your goals and giving it your all only to your most important objectives.

The Dark Side of Obsession

Going back to the subject of obsession, if you’re going to be great at one thing, you’re probably not going to be great at other things. The way I’ve looked at it, I know I definitely have been short in some areas because I’ve been obsessive about other things. I know I probably wasn’t the best dad, the best husband, the best whatever, because I’ve been obsessed about bowhunting. For example, spending $3,000 to go on an out-of state hunt when you don’t have the money and have a newborn baby at home … yeah, that’s probably not a good decision. That’s not being the best provider you can be, because I put my dream ahead of being a provider for my family, for the people who rely on me. If you’re being honest with yourself, and I have been honest with myself, I know I’ve fallen short. That’s not justifying it at all, that’s just being real.

Cameron’s confession poses a difficult dilemma: do you let yourself obsess about a single thing so much that you neglect other aspects of your life? Or do you choose to tone down a little so that you don’t destroy your relationships or health?

In an ideal world, we would be able to get it all. But we don’t live in an ideal world with unlimited resources and no opportunity costs. There’s a price to pay for all decisions.

For example, if you decide to become an ultra-runner, you’ll have to train for up to a few hours a day almost every day of the week. Developing mental and physical toughness to take on long races will become your day job.

Try as you might, you won’t be able to create more time out of thin air. Something will have to give. Will it be your work or business life? Will it be your relationships? Will it be your other skills that you won’t be able to practice as much as before?

Do or do not, you make a sacrifice either way. What is it for you?

I’ve been struggling with this question for years. As a generalist interested in various activities, I’m not good at any single thing. I admire men who are world-class at a single thing. But at the same time, I need to accept that I’m not like them. My version of becoming exceptional needs to be different because I’m not willing to obsess about just one thing.

What is your version of being exceptional? Is it being excellent at just one thing or being competent (but not great) in a variety of fields?

Keep Hammering

There’s an incredible quote that inspires the San Antonio Spurs that is a beautiful summary of the “Keep Hammering” mindset. I love the Spurs and their approach to professional basketball. They are always focused on how they do things, not the reward for what they do. They care about the process, not the result. In 2018, NBA star and former Spur George Hill told me about the words of twentieth-century poet Jacob A. Riis that hangs in the Spurs’ locker room:

“When nothing seems to help, I go and look at a stonecutter hammering away at his rock perhaps a hundred times without as much as a crack showing in it. Yet at the hundred-and-first blow it will split in two, and I know it was not that blow that did it—but all that had gone before.”

Cameron achieved his goals through hammering away at them. There’s a reason why he likes to say “nobody cares, work harder.” It’s purely through hard, consistent work for years and years that he became great at what he does.

When you’re in doubt, remind yourself of all the momentum you’ve built until now. Perhaps it’s not visible to the naked eye, but the rock you’ve been hammering away at for so long might be just a single blow away from splitting in two.

This concludes my two-part series featuring the best quotes from Cameron Hanes’s book Endure. Keep hammering.

Questions to Ponder

1. Do you cultivate a beginner’s mind?

2. What is your poison that prevents you from achieving your goals?

3. Are you willing to work on your goals when others are asleep?

4. How does feeling tired or injured affect your workouts? Do you skip them because you have a little injury or feel under the weather? Or quite the contrary: do you still keep going when it would be advisable to address your injury before it turns into a chronic problem?

5. What relationship do you have with your dreams? Are you truly obsessed about them or is the relationship so balanced that it’s unlikely you’ll ever go past mediocrity?

6. If you have any obsessions, how do they negatively impact your life? Are you willing to accept that downside or do you need to dial things down?

7. Do you regularly acknowledge all the momentum you’ve built until now?

If you want more advice on how to be obsessed and keep hammering, sign up for a free weekly Discomfort Club newsletter. Enter your email address below:

Notes from “Endure” by Cameron Hanes Series

Chemicals at first glance can be confusing. How are we supposed to know what all the different herbicides on the market do and which ones to use, when we can barley even pronounce the lengthy words that look like they fell out of an organic chemistry textbook. “What herbicide can I spay on my food plot?” is one of the most common questions we get, so I decided to create an herbicide guide to help fellow food plotters understand chemical weed control.

Before Planting-

Before planting any of our food plot blends, it is important to kill off all vegetation in the plot area. This creates an area that is free of any weed competition, allowing the seeds get established without fighting other plants for resources. In order to kill all vegetation, I recommend using a glyphosate product. The chemical glyphosate is found labeled under many different trade names, the most popular being “Roundup”. Glyphosate is a non-selective herbicide meaning that it will kill most plants that it comes in contact with. Glyphosate works by absorbing though the leaves of the plant then spreading to all parts, disrupting amino acid production need for growth. It is important to note that glyphosate only affects actively growing plants and does not affect seeds in the soil. After the plot area has been sprayed and killed off, the seed can be no-till drilled in, or the plot area can be disked and planted.

Preemergent herbicides can also be used as a preventative application to keep weeds out of your food plots. Preemergent chemicals are used just as they sound, they are applied to the soil before the weeds germinate and emerge. Thus, with preemergent herbicides, weeds are not sprayed when they are found in the food plot, instead the area is sprayed beforehand to keep the weeds from coming up all together. There are residuals in these chemicals which stay active in the soil and has a residual killing effect on germinating plants for a specific amount of time. These chemicals can be a great tool for food plotters, but it’s important to read the herbicide label to see what crops the specific chemical is approved for and to see how long the residual effects will be on the soil as that may dictate what can be planted in the plot area later on down the road. Some chemicals won’t allow planting of specific crops within a certain time period of the application due to the ability of the chemical to kill of specific germinating seeds.

Weed Control in Fall Annual Plot- This includes our food plot blends: Brassica Banquet, Canola Crave, Greenfield, Max-Attract, Root King Radish, Shake & Rake, Trophy Grazer Oats, Turbo Turnip, Ultra Forage, & Wicked Greens

Weed control in fall annual plots is usually not necessary as long as the food plot area was prepared correctly before planting. There may be some weeds that will show up in the plot, but most will die after the first frost. The weeds should not get to a threshold where they will need chemical control in fall annual plots.

Weed Control in Perennial Plots- This includes our food plot blends: Alfa-Feast, Champion Chicory, King Ladino White Clover, Monster Mix, & Rackup Red Clover.

Weed control is a necessary aspect if you plan to keep your perennial plots lasting for years to come. Spraying onto growing vegetation to kill the weeds that are already in you plot calls for a post emergent herbicide, and a selective herbicide at that. Since you will be spraying onto some foliage that you want to keep but some that you want to kill, it is important to get an herbicide that is selective and only kills the weeds.

To understand what selective chemicals to use on perennial plots, its important to understand two main types of weeds, grass weeds and broadleaf weeds. Grass weeds have leaves that are narrow blades. Common grass weeds would be Crabgrass, Goosegrass, Giant foxtail and so on. Broadleaves, in contrast, are plants where their leaves are not a narrow blade but a more rounded leaf. Examples of common broadleaf weeds are Ragweed, Redroot Pigweed, Pale Smartweed, Cocklebur and this list goes on for miles.

The seeds that are in our perennial mixes such as clovers, chicory, and alfalfa all fall into the broadleaf plant category. With that being said, controlling grass weeds in perennial plots can be accomplished by applying a grass specific herbicide. This herbicide will only target the grass type plants and will not harm the broadleaf plants. One type of grass specific herbicide is Clethodim, which is safe on any of our perennial food plot blends.

Controlling broadleaf weeds in perennial plots can be a little bit trickier but can still definitely be done. All of the plants in our perennial plots are considered broadleaves, so we have to select an herbicide that can kill the broadleaf weeds but not our broadleaf plants that we want to protect. For our King Ladino White Clover and our Rackup Red Clover, we recommend using a 2,4 DB herbicide commonly found labeled as “Butyrac”. This will not harm the clover but can kill many broadleaf weeds. If you have both broadleaf and grass weeds in your clover, do not mix clethodim with 2,4DB in the same tank. Instead, you can either spray the plot in two different applications, one with clethodim then go back later with the 2,4 DB, or you could use Imazamox as a single application.

When chicory is added into the mix with our blends, Monster Mix, Alfa Feast, and Champion Chicory, we suggest using the chemical, Imazamox, which can be found labeled under “Imox” and “Octivio”. The great thing about Imazamox is it can control both grass and broadleaf weeds, but it is important to read the label as the plot will need to be sprayed when the chicory is at a specific crop stage in order for it to not be harmed by the chemical.

It is important to note that I only listed a small selection of chemicals on the market and there are many other chemicals that will work. When using chemical herbicides, it is always important to read the label because it will tell you how to safely use the chemical, what crops it is safe on, what weeds it kills, and what rate to apply the chemical.

Perennial Food Plot Herbicide Flow Chart

The Polaris Ranger 900 may very well be the most popular UTV of all time. Polaris sold so many of them that when they made the jump to a Ranger 1000 XP, they kept the 900 in the lineup as a lower cost alternative. The continued strong sales of the machine made it clear that the company needed to keep a machine in that slot, but the 900 was in desperate need of some updates, especially when the 1000 XP had a major revision that carried it to the top of the class. The answer is the 2021 Ranger 1000, one of the smoothest UTVs we’ve driven.

Clearing up the confusion

When Polaris unveiled the Ranger 1000, it caused some serious confusion as to what was going on in Minnesota. They had the Ranger 1000 XP, but now there was a new Ranger 1000 with less horsepower, a lower price and not as many variations as before? We asked a Polaris representative and he described it like a truck. You have one version of a truck with a basic setup and a smaller engine, and then you have the same truck that comes with more features, a bigger engine and a higher price. There’s a demand for both kinds of trucks, and there’s a similar demand for two versions of the Ranger.

The two Rangers share the same frame, have similar bodywork and a similar suspension design. In fact, much of the machine is similar to its big brother. But the engine is different. The Polaris rep added that they setout to see how they could retain aspects of the 900 engine but ended up creating a completely new motor. The Ranger 1000’s motor, like the XP version, is a 999cc Prostar twin, but the internals are different. The major thing you’ll notice is that the 1000 produces 61 horsepower compared to the XP’s 82 horsepower. Delivery is also strikingly different. While the XP delivers a snappy power curve that makes it fun to trail ride with as well as work, the Ranger 1000 motor feels almost electric. It is very smooth with the power delivery and it is perfect for work around the farm or property, while still being perfectly suited to cruising the trails.

One other thing about the difference between the two machines that will surprise you. Anyone who has ever ridden in a Ranger 1000 XP knows how quiet it is. It is so legendary for how quiet it is that other manufacturers use it as the benchmark for how quiet they try to get their machines to be. The only one we’ve known that came close is the Yamaha Wolverine X4, that is, until now. The Ranger 1000 is even better than the XP at being a quiet riding machine. You can set off on a trail ride and have a pleasant conversation with your passengers without trying to compete with the volume of the machine.

In the field report

To test out the machine, we set out to find as many scenarios as we could to try it in a real setting where you’d find it. We headed over to a farm and got to work to start things off. We loaded up some feed bags and set out to take care of the animals. We didn’t come as close as we would have liked to meeting the Ranger’s 1,000-pound bed capacity. What we did load up didn’t tax the machine in any way. Like we said before, the machine is super quiet too, so no stampedes were caused. We hooked up a trailer to the machine’s 2-inch receiver hitch and actually towed a small tractor that brought us right to the 2,500-pound towing capacity with the trailer counted in too. The added tongue weight had us grabbing the spanner wrench for the rear shocks, but a few clicks and we were all good. You do feel the weight behind you when you’re trying to power along, but it handled it without causing us concern. A word to the wise, never tell a farmer you really want to see how a machine handles doing a day of normal farm chores. In the end, we got a good idea of how well the Ranger 1000 could handle the work, the farmer got a free day’s labor for us and we slept really well when we got home.

Next up, we set out for a combined trail ride and to check out some spots for hunting season. We had a chainsaw and some other gear we threw in the bed to clean up some brush but ended up using it to clear the trail from a downed tree. Now, we’ve actually used a couple of different Ranger 1000 models, and one came with a Polaris Pro 4,500 winch. If you buy a Ranger, make sure you get one of these. The pro model comes with synthetic rope and they have a rapid return function that reels the line back in super fast after you’re done with it. We winched the tree out without any issues, and the wireless remote is a big help, too.

While on the trail, we did notice that if you want to take the speed up a bit, you’ll find yourself wanting the XP model. The upper range of the power of the Ranger 1000 feels almost governed. It doesn’t cut out or anything, it just reaches its limit, and the machine is so smooth that as you’re hauling along, you’ll run out. It’s the side of us that loves speed and going fast down the trails. We know that there will be those of you that are attracted to the lower price tag and feel of the machine but will find yourself wanting more ponies when you initially thought you’d be happy with what the machine has to offer. That’s a small group of you, but you’re out there. We get it.

One really fun feature, and this is the same with the XP, too. If you plan to or need to use the machine to plow snow, you’re in for a treat. Polaris’ plow system connects right to the frame and can be driven on to. From there, plowing is so easy that it’s fun. You’ll be impressed with how much snow you can push, and the stock 26-inch Polaris PXT tires are pretty basic but get pretty good traction.

Should you buy one?

If you don’t need the added horsepower and/or package offerings of the XP 1000, the Ranger 1000 is a great machine. It is leaps and bounds better than the 900 it replaces and fits it’s intended audience perfectly. It is such a smooth machine that you’ll find yourself truly enjoying it and using it more than you even intend to. If you ae looking for a new Ranger, ask yourself what you need, because the answer may very well be the 2021 Polaris Ranger 1000.

I walked into the fertilizer company’s office just in time to hear the radio crackle, “Bernie, are you there yet?”

I was showing up for work just after daylight that mid-November morning in 1989, and my boss was already asking for me on the radio. But when I answered, the call took on a whole new meaning.

“I’m by the slough on the southeast end of Paul Johnson’s home place. GET DOWN HERE NOW!”

Jerry was also my bowhunting buddy, and I knew what the call meant. It’s illegal to share hunting information over the radio, but I could tell by the urgency in his voice that this call wasn’t exactly work-related.

Jerry often showed up for work late at that time of year because he spent a couple hours each morning glassing the surrounding farmland for bucks that had pushed does out into the open fields. This morning, he needed help — and I was happy to oblige.

Ten minutes later I skidded to a stop next to his vehicle on the gravel road. With our windows down, he excitedly related what had prompted his radio call.

A “huge,” “giant,” “monster,” “unbelievable” buck had seen Jerry’s truck top the hill and had dived into tall cattails and willows, disappearing into the 1-acre slough. The buck was still in there, and Jerry was going in after him. My boss would give me a few minutes to work around and choose an escape route to cover in case anything went wrong with his stalk.

Taking note of the wind direction and assuming the buck would try to sneak out with the wind in his nose, 10 minutes later I was covering a deer trail on the opposite side of the small patch of cover. Jerry began creeping in. Arrow nocked, release on the string, I was ready. I still hadn’t seen the buck, but Jerry and I had hunted a lot of these northern Iowa bucks in similar situations, and I could tell by his wide-eye description of the deer that this wasn’t just another 150.

Moments later, I heard Jerry yell. I stood up just in time to see the buck escape the far side of the cover and run across the field. I got a good, long look at him as he ran through the CRP field and over the crest of a hill. And what I saw defied description.

To this day, the sight of that buck is etched in my memory. In 45 years of bowhunting, I’ve never seen anything else like him. His rack was twice as wide as his butt. It reached for the sky, and my first thought was that he had a rocking chair on his head. Stickers and kickers and drop tines: this buck had it all.

Despite spending the remainder of that day and many hours over the following weeks and even years trying to locate the buck, we never saw him again. We never heard of him being killed. We never even heard of anyone else around there having seen him.

So, to our knowledge he was never killed. When we’d look at replicas of world- and state-record bucks, including the giant 282-inch Raveling buck at the Iowa Deer Classic, Jerry and I would just shake our heads and sigh.

Where did that giant we saw come from? Where did he go? How does a world-class buck just appear out of nowhere — and then disappear just as mysteriously?

An Old Theory Revisited

In 1993, Tom Miranda and I teamed up to write a book called Corn Fed Giants. In it, we offered a lot of information for the farmland whitetail hunter. Among the topics I wrote about in the book is a phenomenon I’ve not seen in print anywhere else.

I wrote of my belief that once an outsized, genetically superior buck gets big and strong enough to beat up every other buck he contacts, he just goes wherever he wants during the rut. He breeds does as he pleases, traveling far and wide if need be in that quest. He might follow long-running travel corridors for miles and miles. Then, when the rut is over, he might return to his original range — or, he might settle down right where he is, in the best available habitat.

When I announced that theory over 20 years ago, researchers’ ability to track wild bucks’ movements wasn’t what it is today. Now, with GPS collars, a lot more has been learned about travel patterns and home ranges. Even so, I don’t believe there’s been any research to back up my theory.

In fact, most research has shown bucks tend to reduce their home ranges they mature, particularly after passing peak breeding age. But I’m not totally ready to give up on trying to explain the issue of bucks that appear and disappear like ghosts.

One thing we’ve learned is that bucks are individuals with their own “personalities.” And to my knowledge, no one has put a tracking collar on a wild, world-class buck in Midwest farmland habitat. I’ve seen too many situations in which a huge buck just showed up on a camera, never seen before and then never shot or even seen again. Nor is either of his shed antlers found. It’s as if he simply appeared out of thin air . . . and then vanished in the same fashion.

What does this mean to the hunter who wants to know more about the home ranges and travel patterns of mature whitetails? And furthermore, is there information out there to help us improve our odds of bringing such deer home with us?

Defining Home Range

Every deer hunter has heard the term “home range.” It’s usually associated with a number of acres or square miles. The numbers vary greatly by terrain, habitat quality, food availability and time of year.

Home ranges of whitetail bucks in excellent habitat with plenty of food available can be quite small. GPS studies in prime areas of Louisiana, Pennsylvania and Maryland have shown home ranges averaging from 269 to 559 acres; not even as much as a square mile (640 acres).

Often a square mile is used as a baseline for a buck’s home range in good habitat, though there are clearly many places in which that figure is way off. A GPS tracking study in Texas showed an average home range of 2,271 acres. Availability of food and proximity to cover make all the difference.

In many parts of the West, in fact, whitetails routinely make treks of 2-3 miles between preferred bedding areas in timbered hills to feed on alfalfa in the lowlands. The deer make that long-distance hike each way daily. It’s hard to put a number of acres on a home range when deer are taking such long strolls.

Putting a number of acres or square miles on a home range is deceiving, because it almost implies the area is something of a circle or square. In reality, a home range might be a section of winding river bottom two miles long by 300 yards wide. It might include a couple areas where the deer move upstream on a small tributary, which further makes putting a number on it difficult. The shape of a deer’s home range is dictated by habitat, not by acres.

It can be a mistake to get caught up in home ranges when targeting a particular deer. Trail cameras can help you get a feel for where the buck is spending the majority of his time and when he’s there, but trying to determine the boundaries of his preferred area can be futile.

Bucks will go wherever they need to go to get food and water daily, and they’ll certainly roam during the rut. Home ranges are very fluid and dynamic.

Core Areas

While an overall home range might be pretty nebulous, a core area isn’t. The Quality Deer Management Association defines a core area as “The portion of a buck’s home range where he spends 50 percent of his time.” Core areas are all about security and comfort. While a buck might range widely to find food and water, he’ll often come back to the same small area in which he feels secure.

These core areas can change due to weather and food availability. If a food source completely runs out, and there’s suitable bedding cover near a new food source, the buck might pack up and move.

Bucks also tend to bed in the thickest, nastiest cover during bad weather, though they tend to select areas with some visibility during pleasant weather. A buck might use three or four core areas during the course of any given year.

On average, mature bucks tend to have smaller core areas than younger bucks. The 2 1/2-year-olds travel widely, having ranges much larger than even 3 1/2-year-olds.

Many bucks 5 1/2 or older have tiny core areas in which they’ve learned they can feel secure. These deer are big enough to take over the best of the best bits of security cover from other bucks if they so desire.

Excursions

The ability to track bucks’ exact whereabouts with GPS technology has opened a whole new world of information about their habits. One of the things learned through these studies is that bucks, especially mature bucks, take off on what biologists have termed “excursions” a few times per year. The GPS collars have shown these to be anywhere from one to four miles from the core area.

These trips often last around three days. It’s no stretch, considering the individuality of bucks, to suggest some are far longer. The “stranger” that just showed up on your camera might be on just such an excursion.

While the rut is one time in which bucks make excursions, it isn’t the only one. Spring also is “vacation time” for many bucks. In a GPS study done in Pennsylvania by the University of Georgia’s Andy Olson, all 19 collared bucks went on spring excursions.

It’s not fully known what triggers such forays, but some likely are the result of nutritional needs as antlers are beginning to grow. This also is the time when many bucks approaching their first birthdays are traveling around, looking for adult home ranges of their own.

Fall excursions might be related to rutting behavior or even hunting pressure. The collared bucks in these studies were quick to go entirely nocturnal when they felt hunting pressure or other human intrusion. Pressure even can cause bucks to leave their home ranges altogether for long periods of time.

Secondary Ranges

Following buck movements by GPS makes it clear most bucks have a backup plan: a secondary home range they’ll move to as needed. This is evidenced by the fact they tend to go directly to new areas and spend a lot of time there, indicating prior knowledge of those places.

I have no way of proving this, but I theorize these secondary ranges are often bucks’ natal areas. A buck spends the first year of life in his mother’s home range, learning it intimately. It stands to reason that if an adult buck is making a beeline to an area he knows well, it’s possibly one he learned as a fawn.

I suppose the only real way to prove or disprove my theory would be to put a GPS collar on a wild buck fawn and track him over several years. To my knowledge, this hasn’t yet been done.

In Conclusion

Keep in mind that only a relatively small number of wild bucks have been collared and tracked for lengthy periods. This leaves us with very general tendencies and few specifics.

Again, bucks are individuals; they often have remarkably different habits and personalities. Add to that the fact no truly giant wild bucks have been collared. They might behave quite differently from run-of-the-mill bucks.

I’ve resigned myself to never knowing where that giant non-typical Jerry and I saw in 1989 came from or went. I’m sure he wasn’t shot by legal means, or we’d have heard. He probably just died an “old man,” as many smart bucks do. But GPS tracking studies continue to offer new insights into whitetail movements and ranges.

Maybe one day a world-class nomad like him will be collared and we’ll all get a look into the secretive lives of such giants. No doubt it would be revealing.

Micro compact 9mm pistols offer enhanced concealability, making them perfect for self-defense, concealed carry, and even home defense.

With so many unique designs, capabilities, and features available, it is challenging to find the perfect fit.

Whether you are a beginner or an experienced gun enthusiast, there is sure to be a micro 9mm pistol that will meet your needs on the list below.

From top brands such as Smith & Wesson, Springfield Armory, and Sig Sauer, these pistols will offer unique features and durable designs that you can count on.

So, if you are looking for a compact and lightweight handgun that can fit in your pocket, purse, or nightstand, consider these 8 Best Micro 9mm Pistols for 2024.

#1. Smith & Wesson Shield Plus 9mm Pistol With Thumb Safety

• Barrel Length: 3.1”
• Overall Length: 6.1”
• Weight: 20.2 oz
• Capacity: 10, 13

For shooters looking for a comfortable micro compact 9mm with plenty of features, the Smith & Wesson Shield Plus 9mm Pistol With Thumb Safety is an excellent option.

With an overall length of 6.1” and weighing just 20.2 ounces, it is perfect for an all-day concealed carry for self-defense.

It also comes with a flush-fit 10-round magazine for improved concealment and a 13-round magazine for improved capacity.

To provide you with enhanced control and comfort, it includes an enhanced grip texture and has an optimal 18-degree grip angle for an ergonomic grip with a natural point of aim.

Smith & Wesson also gave it a flat face trigger for consistent finger placement, and the pistol has a 5.3” sight radius to improve accuracy.

It also includes a tactile and audible trigger reset to give you more control over your shots.

If you are looking for a micro compact 9mm pistol that has an ergonomic design for natural aiming and consistent shot groups, the Smith & Wesson Shield Plus 9mm Pistol With Thumb Safety is a top pick.

It is available from Palmetto State Armory. Here’s where to buy it: www.PalmettoStateArmory.com

#2. Springfield Armory Hellcat 3” Micro-Compact 9mm Pistol

• Barrel Length: 3”
• Overall Length: 6”
• Weight: 17.9 oz
• Capacity: 11, 13

The Springfield Armory Hellcat 3” Micro-Compact 9mm Pistol is perfect for home defense, self-defense, and the range.

This pistol is perfect for acquiring your target in a flash with its U-Dot sights.

It includes front tritium and luminescent sights and a rear Tactical Rack sight, providing an excellent sight picture in any lighting condition.

It only weighs 17.9 ounces and has a 6” overall length, making it perfect for a comfortable all-day carry.

The pistol features adaptive grip texture and a dual captive recoil spring system with a full length guide rod to give you enhanced control.

Springfield Armory built the Hellcat 3” Micro-Compact to last with a black polymer frame, a hammer-forged 3” steel barrel with a Melonite finish, and a serrated billeted machine slide with a Melonite finish.

Even with its compact size, it still has an excellent 13-round capacity with the extended magazine, and it comes with a flush-fit 11-round capacity magazine for enhanced concealment.

If you are looking for a quality micro-compact 9mm pistol that offers enhanced sights and a great capacity, the Springfield Armory Hellcat 3” Micro-Compact 9mm Pistol is an excellent choice.

It is available from Palmetto State Armory. Here’s where to buy it: www.PalmettoStateArmory.com

#3. Sig Sauer P365 9mm Pistol 12 Rd RTT TACPAC

• Barrel Length: 3.1”
• Overall Length: 5.8”
• Weight: 17.8 oz
• Capacity: 10, 12, 15

The Sig Sauer P365 9mm Pistol 12 Rd RTT TACPAC is a micro-compact ideal for shooters who want a lightweight and compact firearm with tons of features.

One thing that sticks out about the P365 is its patented double stack design, which allows you to have a flush fit magazine for better concealment or a 15-round full-size magazine for an impressive capacity in a micro-compact.

It includes one 15-round and two 12-round magazines to ensure you have plenty of ammo for any situation.

It has a coyote polymer grip module for all-weather use and a Nitron slide with serrations for light deflection and grip.

The P365 also includes Xray3 day/night sights to give you the edge in low light environments.

It also has a striker fire design with a crisp trigger pull you would expect from a Sig Sauer.

When you buy the P365, you also get an ambidextrous IWB/OWB holster for comfortable weapon concealment.

The Sig Sauer P365 9mm Pistol 12 Rd RTT TACPAC is perfect for shooters who want double-stack capacity in a micro-compact frame.

It is available from Palmetto State Armory. Here’s where to buy it: www.PalmettoStateArmory.com

#4. Springfield Hellcat OSP 11/13rd 3” 9mm Pistol

• Barrel Length: 3”
• Overall Length: 6”
• Weight: 17.9 oz
• Capacity: 11, 13

The Springfield Hellcat OSP 11/13rd 3” 9mm Pistol is an excellent choice for shooters who want a micro-compact 9mm compatible with micro red dot sights.

The pistol comes with a sleek Desert Flat Dark Earth polymer frame, a Cerakote finished slide, and a 3” hammer forged barrel with a Melonite finish for a worry-free all-day concealed carry.

With tritium/luminescent front and tactical rack U-notch rear sights, you will have an excellent sight picture in any lighting condition.

You can easily install a micro red dot optic if you wish to upgrade your sights with the rear slide mounting platform.

To enhance your shooting experience, Springfield Armory equipped the Hellcat with a dual captive recoil spring with a full-length guide rod for smoother operation and less recoil to provide you with tighter shot groups.

It also includes an adaptive grip texture to provide enhanced control and comfort.

The Hellcat comes with one 11-round magazine and one 13-round magazine to provide you a flush or extended grip for more control or concealment.

It also comes with an accessory rail to equip a flashlight or laser.

If you are looking for a reliable micro-compact milled for optics, the Springfield Hellcat OSP 11/13rd 3” 9mm Pistol is the perfect option for you.

It is available from Palmetto State Armory. Here’s where to buy it: www.PalmettoStateArmory.com

#5. Taurus GX4 9mm Pistol 11 Rnd 3”

• Barrel Length: 3”
• Overall Length: 5.8”
• Weight: 18.5 oz
• Capacity: 11

The Taurus GX4 9mm Pistol 11 Rnd 3” is an excellent micro-compact for shooters who want a concealed carry or home defense weapon on a budget.

Even though it is a budget-friendly option, the GX4 9mm is a rugged weapon that can be relied on to defend yourself.

Taurus crafted it with a polymer grip with a comfortable texture and an ergonomic design to provide a micro-compact that feels great in your hands with a natural feel.

It also has two backstrap options to customize your grip for improved control, comfort, and accuracy.

They constructed the slide of durable alloy steel with a gas Nitride coating, and the 3” barrel has a black DLC coating to provide protection against scratches, damage, and corrosion.

It also has an 11-round capacity and includes two magazines out of the box.

The Taurus GX4 9mm Pistol 11 Rnd 3” is an excellent option if you are looking for an affordable micro-compact for self-defense and home defense.

It is available from Palmetto State Armory. Here’s where to buy it: www.PalmettoStateArmory.com

#6. Smith & Wesson CSX 9mm Pistol Micro Compact

• Barrel Length: 3.1”
• Overall Length: 6.1”
• Weight: 19.5 oz
• Capacity: 10, 12

The Smith & Wesson CSX 9mm Pistol Micro Compact is an excellent option for left-handed shooters with its ambidextrous slide release, manual safeties, and controls.

The CSX comes with a 12-round magazine for improved capacity and a 10-round flush fit magazine for a custom level of concealment.

To give you better concealment and comfort, the CSX includes interchangeable textured backstraps, and a chamfered ejection port for a no-snag draw.

It also has glare-reducing serrations on the slide for enhanced concealability.

To provide enhanced durability and longevity, Smith & Wesson gave the CSX an Armornite finish to protect against damage and corrosion.

To give you improved control and accuracy, this firearm comes with a single-action flat-faced trigger and has an 18-degree grip for a natural point of aim.

The Smith & Wesson CSX 9mm Pistol Micro Compact is an excellent option if you are a left-handed shooter.

It is available from Palmetto State Armory. Here’s where to buy it: www.PalmettoStateArmory.com

#7. Kimber Micro 9 Two-Tone 9mm Pistol

• Barrel Length: 3.15”
• Overall Length: 6.1”
• Weight: 15.6 oz
• Capacity: 6

Gun enthusiasts who want a unique 9mm micro compact will love the Kimber Micro 9 Two-Tone 9mm Pistol.

One of the first things you would love about the Kimber Micro 9 is that it is based on the legendary 1911.

It will turn heads with its beautiful aluminum frame, matte black steel slide, and rosewood grips.

It is more than just looks with the Kimber Micro 9 with its 3.15” stainless steel barrel, aluminum match grade 7-pound trigger pull, and full-length guide rod.

These features will give you the performance you would expect from a 1911, but in a concealable micro compact frame.

A downside to the Kimber Micro 9 is its 6-round capacity, which is plenty for self or home defense, but it has a lower capacity than the other micro compacts on this list.

If you are looking for a micro compact with the look and feel of a 1911, the Kimber Micro 9 Two-Tone 9mm Pistol is perfect for you.

It is available from Palmetto State Armory. Here’s where to buy it: www.PalmettoStateArmory.com

#8. Ruger Max-9 9mm Pistol 12rd 3”

• Barrel Length: 3.2”
• Overall Length: 6”
• Weight: 18.4 oz
• Capacity: 10, 12

Ruger’s Max-9 9mm Pistol 12rd 3” is packed full of features that you may not expect in a micro compact.

Shooters will love its rigged design that features a through-hardened alloy steel slide, a glass-fill nylon grip, a 3.2” alloy steel barrel with a black oxide finish, and a precision-machined fire control chassis.

It features tritium fiber optic day/night sights, a short trigger pull with a clean break, and a medium textured grip to give you enhanced control and tighter shot groups.

You could also equip the Max-9 with a co-witnessed Jpoint or Shield-pattern micro red dot sights for even better target acquisition for faster engagements.

It also features a reversible magazine release for improved ambidextrous functionality.

With its included 12-round and 10-round magazine, you can have an extended grip for better control and comfort or a flush fit for improved concealment.

The Ruger Max-9 9mm Pistol 12rd 3” is an ideal fit if you want an optics-ready micro compact with excellent features.

It is available from Palmetto State Armory. Here’s where to buy it: www.PalmettoStateArmory.com

Why Should You Buy a Micro 9mm Pistol?

A micro 9mm pistol is an excellent choice for anyone who is looking for a reliable and powerful weapon to carry for self-defense.

Micro compact pistols are easy to conceal and carry, making them ideal for those who want to keep their weapon hidden while still having enough power to naturalize an assailant.

They are also highly accurate, with various features to help increase their effectiveness.

When it comes to self-defense, the micro 9mm pistol provides excellent protection.

Its small size and light weight make it easy to maneuver and draw quickly, which is essential when facing a threat.

The accuracy and power of the 9mm round also make it an ideal choice for self-defense, allowing you to place shots accurately and effectively.

There is also a massive market of 9mm ammunition, which allows you to equip a 9mm micro compact with scenario-specific ammunition.

Final Verdict

Overall, the micro 9mm pistol is an excellent choice for anyone looking for an effective and reliable weapon for concealed carry and self-defense.

Its small size and light weight make it easy to conceal, and its accuracy and power make it a superb choice for those looking for an effective weapon.

Furthermore, its wide selection of ammunition makes it perfect for any scenario, from home defense to concealed carry.

References

Concealed Carry Pistols: The Hot New Double-Stack Micro-Compact 9mms

Self Defense Laws By State

See Also

12 Best 9mm Pistols For Concealed Carry & Home Defense

12 Best Handguns For Beginners

12 Best Subcompact 9MM Pistols

9 Best Handguns For Women

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