There was a time when I was exclusively in love with the 7.62x51mm for every rifle task.

According to the gun magazines at that time, the 5.56 was an abject failure in both Iraq and Afghanistan. So, I became convinced that the round was a poodle shooter.

Then, I joined the infantry and went to figure it out for myself.

Over my deployments, I carried weapons chambered in both 7.62 and 5.56 and got a good idea of how both worked and where they were successful.

Like most things in life, they both have their place and the roles in which they succeed. The idea that you have to choose one over the other is silly.

Own both.

From there, you can choose the right tool for the task at hand.

Before you go selecting one or the other, though, it helps to know the real difference between them. Where do they stand in a side-by-side contest and when should you use one over the other?

Lucky for you, that is what we are exploring today. We’ll touch on the history of each round, its purpose, and ultimately which is the right cartridge for the job.

7.62x51mm NATO

With so many 7.62 rounds, I have to distinguish this one as x51mm.

This .30 caliber projectile has long been a popular choice for both rifles and handguns. Developed as a replacement for the .30-06, it was standardized with our European allies through the newly created NATO.

The 7.62x51mm became the round de jour for infantry rifles and machine guns.

Though it was short-lived as an infantry rifle cartridge in the United States, it saw wider use across NATO.

It’s worth mentioning, this caliber still sees action in sniper rifles, designated marksman rifles, and machine guns within the U.S. military.

During the development of the 7.62x51mm, Winchester saw the commercial potential and developed the .308 Winchester.

The .308 Win. is, fundamentally, the same round but intended for the civilian market.

5.56x45mm NATO

You’re probably used to see 5.56x45mm NATO a lot more than 7.62x51mm NATO. There’s a reason for that.

The 5.56 was the successor to the 7.62 in terms of general military use. It became the infantry cartridge of choice during the Vietnam War.

Developed from the commercial .223 Remington, minor alterations were made during the 5.56’s development.

Shooter Beware: 5.56 should NEVER be fired in .223 marked rifles. (But .223 can be fired in 5.56 rifles.)

After its initial growing pains, the 5.56 cartridge proved to be incredibly successful.

The round serves to this day in the hands of most U.S. troops.

Paired with the vast majority of America’s favorite rifle — the AR-15 — 5.56 NATO has become one of the most popular rounds in the nation.

The Money

Before we dive into the performance, size, and uses of these calibers, let’s talk about the most common make or break for anything…

Money.

5.56 is the substantially cheaper route.

The cost of 5.56 versus 7.62 NATO is often a 50% difference in price per round. Rarely do you see 7.62 NATO below 40 cents per round.

Note: those are normal prices and we are far from normal at the time of this writing.

Whenever an event occurs that drives up demand, the first batch of rounds to hit sky-high prices are almost always 9mm and 5.56. The year 2020 is no exception with 5.56 NATO a rarity in the marketplace and crazy expensive when it does pop up.

At this point, 5.56 and 7.62 NATO are both more than a buck a round.

The Size Difference

You can easily visualize the size difference when you utilize the metric measurements to describe the rounds.

The 7.62x51mm is a much bigger round — not only in projectile size but also in weight and case length.

5.56 ammunition, on the other hand, is shorter in length and thus lighter to carry.

Let’s run some numbers.

A fully loaded 30-round AR-15 magazine weighs about 16-ounces, give or take. A fully loaded 20-round SCAR H magazine weighs 17.6-ounces.

That’s a substantial increase in weight with a decrease in ammo.

Ask any soldier, the average infantryman would rather carry more ammunition. More ammo equals more suppressive fire while bettering the ability to maneuver.

Let’s be honest here, the M16 saw some growing pains in its early days. That said, the M16’s adoption proved to be successful just based on the logistics of combat.

In my experience as a machine gunner carrying the M249 light machine gun, I was able to tote 1,000 rounds of linked 5.56 ammunition. The ammo was lightweight, as was the weapon.

When I took the 7.62 chambered M240 medium machine gun, I carried only 600 rounds and distributed 400 more throughout my squad.

Performance Matters

While 5.56 might be the lighter ammo weight, it’s also lighter in performance power.

The 7.62x51mm has some real punch behind it with the round retaining tremendous energy compared to the 5.56. The heavier duty 7.62 NATO is still used in the military due to the extra power and range it offers.

When comparing the 5.56 M885A1 load and the 7.62 NATO M80 round, we see the big differences upfront.

7.62 retains over 1,700 foot-pounds of energy at 500-yards versus 5.56 which hits 950 foot-pounds at 500-yards.

Pushing out to 1,000-yards, the 7.62 M80 loads retain over 1,000 foot-pounds of energy.

That extra power makes it a more capable long-range round.

Even at moderate ranges, it outperforms the 5.56 ballistically, penetrating deeper and transfering more energy.

Remember when we said the .308 Win is the civilian form of the 7.62 NATO?

.308 Win’s performance, like its 7.62 sibling, earned it high praise among hunters. Power paired with a short-action capable design and moderate recoil made the .308 Win family an excellent round to take down large game on hunts.

Though the 7.62 NATO load whips the 5.56 in range, power, and penetration, that all comes at a cost.

What is that, you ask?

Cartridge length and weight as well as muzzle rise and recoil.

When compared to the 5.56, it’s easy to see why the 5.56 is called a poodle shooter.

Overall, 5.56 is a much kinder, gentler experience.

There is something to be said for too much power and too much penetration.

A 7.62 NATO load is a bit much for home-defense when you start factoring in neighbors.

Miss a shot and that very powerful round will be flying very far and through lots of potential walls.

Where the 5.56 Dominates

The 5.56 NATO is one of the best infantry fighting calibers in the world.

It’s fought for decades and done an excellent job at its role as a general infantry cartridge.

Sure, it’s not perfect, but the cartridge has proven to be a reliable warfighting cartridge.

Best used within 300-yards, the 5.56 can be pushed out to 500-yards.

It’s a great close-quarters fighting cartridge and has very little risk of over-penetration should a miss occur.

Recoil and muzzle rise are naturally quite limited, which makes it an excellent round for shooters of all sizes.

Well-suited to the competitive market where speed rules, the 5.56 is a great companion in multi-gun events. The 5.56 AR-15 absolutely dominates the competition!

Competitions aside, 5.56/.223 Rem. can be used for close-range hunting on small to medium game.

Anything larger than a whitetail deer, though, should be taken with a larger, more potent cartridge.

The 5.56 and .223 Rem. are perfect for targets closer than 300-yards and for shooters looking for a lightweight, compact platform.

Where the 7.62x51mm Rules

The 7.62x51mm and .308 Win. are both powerful cartridges with long-range potential.

Perfect for Precision Rifle matches, these rounds, in general, work well in long-range shooting events.

They have their place in the heavy metal division of multi-gun matches as well.

If you’re looking to get into long-range shooting — and by that, we mean 500-yards plus — starting with the 7.62 NATO is one of the easiest routes to take.

Ammo is common, affordable, not to mention, lots of data, gear, and optics are produced with 7.62 NATO in mind.

.308 Win. is one of the most popular North American hunting cartridges. Used in bolt-actions and semi-auto guns with easily manageable magazine platforms, the cartridge can take deer, hogs, predators, and even bear with the right rifle.

When you need a little more range and a lot more power to achieve a task, the .308 Win and 7.62 NATO loads are perfect.

Favorite 5.56 and 7.62 NATO

Ok, now you know what’s what…so which brands do we prefer at Pew Pew Tactical?

Glad you asked.

Here is a collection of our favorite 5.56 and 7.62 NATO rounds. (Don’t blame us if they’re out of stock, though. Ammo shortage, and all…)

Conclusion

Let’s be real, 7.62 and 5.56 NATO are excellent fighting cartridges with long, battle-proven histories. 5.56 may be better suited for home defense and 7.62 rules long-range matches and big-game hunting, but both cartridges perform well in their respective roles.

So how do you as the shooter choose between the two? Identify the task, target, and goal. From there, you can choose a caliber and platform that fits those metrics.

Cartridge wars are always silly, and people rarely prove one popular cartridge is better than another. Different rounds have different purposes, and there is plenty of room at the table for everyone to sit.

Which is for you? 5.56? 7.62 NATO? Both? Let us know below which you prefer and why. Want more? Check out the Best 7.62x51mm Ammo and the Best AR-15 Ammo!

Jack London’s To Build a Fire is one of the best short stories ever written. It illustrates man’s battle with nature as well as how smart dogs are. It also shows the frustration of making fire when you need it the most. In the story, death won because the man failed in starting a fire. That doesn’t have to be the outcome. Here are a few tips on building a fire when things are wet and miserable and you need it most.

Make sure you protect your materials from wind and rain as you work. Create a base to start the fire by clearing the ground. You want the fire in a dry place, so remove all wet leaves and debris and pick a spot with good drainage. A flat rock works well as a work table to get the fire started. Make sure to locate the fire near some kind of shelter for you.

I usually have a space blanket or a small tarp in my pack as well as some paracord because it’s easy to form a roof with to keep rain off the fire. You may need to move or remove it once the fire is going to prevent the sparks from burning a hole, but for now, keep it low enough to protect your work area.

Lacking that, find some natural protection or make it. Build a lean-to frame against a big rock, log or tree with fallen limbs and cover it with spruce bows. That works well in the Northeast where we have lots of spruce. In other areas, improvise; there’s almost always something you can use to keep the rain off you and the fire.

StarterYou’ll need a starter. Often called tinder, it’s something that will light easily and burn hot long enough to ignite small fuel sources. It’s a good idea to bring something with you. I’ve read hundreds of these type of articles where the writer talked about soaking cotton balls in Vaseline or collecting lint from the dryer vent. I’ve tried them all, and to be honest, I didn’t have much luck. There are much better options.

Fire-lighting sticks that are ground wood mixed with wax are hard to beat. I burn wood to heat my house and have to restart the fire often. I used to mess with newspapers and kindling that I split from dry wood. That’s a tedious process of gradually building the fire. Now, I pile up my big chunks of hard wood, insert a fire-starting stick at a junction located low in the pile, light it and walk away. The point is, starters are great and inexpensive.

Another option is solid fuel tablets. They’re easy to find, inexpensive and burn very hot. If you add a folding stove—often sold with these tablets and a metal cup—you have a way to make tea, coffee or food while you work. These cubes and the fire-starting sticks are a bit fragile, so I vacuum seal them with my FoodSaver. At the very least, wrap them in aluminum foil and put them in a zip-lock bag.

I always carry a couple of tea light candles in my backpack. They are short, squat candles in a small aluminum cup. They burn for a long time and are easy to light and slip in under the tinder. They can also provide light to work by.

There are a lot of commercial fire starters on the market, often in individual single-use packaging. Most I’ve tried work pretty well, but a word of caution: Test them at home a few times to be sure. Some burn out pretty fast, and if things are wet, you need something that will burn long enough to dry the edges of your tinder.

If you don’t have any of these materials, don’t panic. There are plenty of fire-starters out there in the woods, they’re just a bit harder to find. Birch bark is an old standby. If you peel deep enough on a standing tree, you should find a dry layer. You may have to use your knife to cut away the dry bark.

Sometimes if you look deep under thick evergreen trees, the branches lowest and closest to the trunk will be dry, as they’re protected from the upper branches. Carefully harvest any small dry twigs to form into a nest to start the fire.

Find some dead branches that are seasoned and start shaving them with your knife. While the outside will be wet, when you whittle away that layer, you should find dry wood at some point. Shave off thin slices of this dry wood until you have a large pile of shavings. You can also form them into a fuzz stick by cutting a shaving so it curls away from the stick, but leaving it attached, then move the knife slightly and make another. If you make a lot of these, you end up with a big fuzzy stick to start the fire.

In locations where you have trees with high pitch content, some types of pines for example, you may find chunks of pitch on the trees. Those work well to start the fire. Shavings from this will light easily and burn hot.

FuelYou need some small dry pieces of fuel to start, and then progressively larger pieces to build and maintain the fire. Once again, look under the protected branches of an evergreen tree. Check on the downwind side of rocks, trees or big formations like cliffs. Often there will be a small zone close to the wind barrier that has some dry material. Collect small twigs, dry grass or anything else that will burn.

Find some smaller sticks—up to an inch or so in diameter—that are dead and seasoned. Break them into manageable sections, about 3 or 4 inches long. Use your knife to split the wood lengthwise. You may need to use a larger piece of wood to drive the blade through with a method called batoning.

A word here to the small knife advocates. I know it’s all so very cool to brag about using a pen knife to process a moose, but this right here is why you should carry a grown-up knife in the woods. Little knives and replaceable-blade knives are fine for gutting rabbits, but you need a large, tough knife to save your life in a situation like this. You don’t need a Rambo-inspired survival knife or bushcraft knife, although it wouldn’t hurt. But you do need a full-size hunting knife with at least a 3-inch blade. A hatchet works even better here, but most hunters don’t carry them as part of their everyday gear.

The inside of the split wood should be dry. Split it fine, with lots of edges to catch fire. You may even want to split off any wood that is water soaked. Work up in branch size as far as you can with your knife and split some bigger pieces. You should have multiple piles of split wood in different sizes. The idea is to start the fire with the small stuff and gradually work up in size until you have a large enough fire to dry the bigger pieces as you add them.

Collect enough wood to make a large, hot fire before beginning. Once the fire is burning well and you have some hot coals, then you can leave it and gather more wood. Gather what you think is enough, then double it. The last thing you want is to run out of wood. Place the wood close to your fire so that it will be drying as it waits its turn in the fire. If you pile the wood high and opposite your position, it can act as a wind barrier and will reflect some of the heat back to you.

Be Prepared with Multiple StartersI never go into the woods without at least two ways to make a fire. I am a big fan of magnesium fire starters, and always have one in my pocket when hunting. I recall one day high in the mountains of Montana where our elk hunting was interrupted by a blizzard. The guide used all his matches and failed to get the fire started. I dug a magnesium starter out of my pack, and soon enough our jackets were steaming and our fingers were warm again. The trick is to make a small pile of shavings using your knife and then hit the metal Ferro rod to create a spark which ignites the shavings. Magnesium burns very hot and will start the tinder easily.

Ferrocerium (Ferro) rods are very popular right now and easy to find. They produce a shower of hot sparks, and when used correctly, that shower is almost continuous and will ignite dry tender easily. One of the best I’ve tried is the Lightning Strike Fire Starter. It comes with several disks that store in the handle, light easily and burn for four minutes. The machined body is designed to guide the striker and to send the sparks directly to the tinder.

Waterproof matches and butane lighters are good as well. With the lighter, you can hold the flame for a long time. Try to find one with a large flame or an adjustable flame.

Tend the fire carefully, as most people (myself included) try to rush things and start piling on too much wood too soon, which can put the fire out. Work slowly, be patient, feed the fire gently and watch it grow.

If you’re really smart, you’ll have a package of noodles or instant soup in your pack and something to heat it in. A metal cup works pretty well. Set it on a rock beside the fire until the water is hot. It’s raining, finding water is easy enough. Finish with a little instant coffee; it does wonders for your outlook on life.

I want to preface what I’m about to say by making one thing clear…I love all firearms.

Big ones, small ones, common, rare, old, new, whatever — if it goes bang, it has a place in my heart.

But the mostspecial place in my heart will always be held by the majesty that is the “battle rifle” — which usually means a semi-automatic chambered in .308 Winchester/7.62×51 NATO.

Why .308?

I’ve talked before about how much I love the .308 cartridge and how perfect it is for my needs and those of most shooters and hunters.

It’s good out to 800-yards, no sweat, and with quality match ammo, it will probably be more accurate than most shooters.

So while I love things like the 6.5 Creedmoor and .224 Valkyrie, I can’t get away from good ol’ .308.

If you are a fan of .308 and on the hunt for a new battle rifle, you might have noticed there are a few options on the market. So which is best?

I’m going to walk you through some of the Pew Pew Tactical team’s favorite battle rifles. We’ll examine some pros of each and discuss what makes them worthy of your attention.

So without further ado…let’s dive in.

THE QUICK LIST

Best .308/7.62 Semi-Auto Rifles

1. AR-10

When the words “.308” and “semi-auto” are uttered in the same breath, most people’s minds probably go to the AR-10.

The AR-10 is the starting point not only for most modern battle rifles but for most Western semi-auto rifles in general.

It would go on to spawn the AR-15 and all of its variants, making it the progenitor of arguably the most popular firearm family in the world.

You can read more about the history of these rifles in our AR-10 vs. AR-15 article.

Originally developed by Eugene Stoner to replace the aging M1 Garand for the U.S. military, the AR-10 has had a long and successful life.

In that time, it has remained in use globally, though these days mostly in specialized circumstances or in the hands of civilians.

That said, it’s still an incredibly robust platform, and modern refinements have only made it better.

Aero Precision M5E1

The Aero M5E1 is the gold standard for people that want a customizable AR-10 without breaking the bank — though you’ll have to piece it together yourself.

Coming in somewhere between $1,200 and $2,000 depending on options, the M5E1 is an excellent choice for those who want a solid rifle that can be made great with a few small upgrades.

You can read our full review here.

Palmetto State Armory PA10

PSA is a budget firearms enthusiast’s dream come true. I’m not sure exactly how they do it, but they have everything from ammo to AR-10s at rock-bottom prices.

Best of all, their PSA-branded uppers, lowers, and complete rifles are all very cheap compared to the competition. Their fit and finish are nothing to drool over, but they go bang every time, and they’re more accurate than the price would lead you to believe.

If you’re looking for an entry model AR-10 or semi-auto .308 in general, the PA-10 from PSA is available in multiple configurations. They start at about $700 and top out at around $1100.

You can check out our reviews of the .308 and 6.5 Creedmoor versions and peep our video review of the .308 version below.

Other AR-10 Info

Simply put, the AR-10 is the king of battle rifles. They are inherently accurate, reliable, and modular. Aside from the models we listed, there are plenty of great options out there Sig 716I and higher-end options like LMT MARS-H and POF Revolution.

Be sure to check out our AR-10 vs. AR-15 and 8Best AR-10s articles if you would like to know more.

2. PTR-91

The PTR-91 is a modern variant of a gun first manufactured over half a century ago, the Heckler and Koch G3 — one of the most revered battle rifles ever produced.

What would go on to become the H&K G3 was first produced in 1958. Primarily designed by German engineers working for the Spanish CETME development group, the CETME-C was a roller-delayed 7.62×51 rifle.

This legendary rifle would go on to inspire a number of similar rifles (and quite a few blatant copies) and be used by just about every country with a military.

The PTR 91 is an American-made G3 clone that uses tooling references from the original H&K G3 to be as accurate as possible to that original design, but with all the advancements and improvements of a modern manufacturing complex.

It also features the iconic H&K diopter sights (the little rotating drum you probably recognize most from the MP5) and a standard 5/28 threaded barrel making it ready for suppressors out of the box.

A nice bonus about these guns is the widespread availability of dirt-cheap magazines. You can find surplus magazines for $5 to $10, and new magazines can be had for as little as $10 to $15.

This is a battle rifle. It’s got a stamped and welded receiver just like an AK, and the trigger does double duty as a medieval torture device. Beware, these things absolutely chew up brass; so if you are planning on reloading, this gun will literally put a dent in your plans.

I’d be comfortable calling the base model a 2 MOA gun with mid-range ammo. Stepping up to their FR model with the match-grade bull barrel is an option for those looking to squeeze a bit more accuracy out of the platform.

There are several variations of the PTR-91, but they typically run from about $1,000 to $1,400.

For a battle rifle that’ll handle anything, it’s certainly not bad at all, and I’d feel good about having one to rely on in anything from a home invasion to an alien invasion.

3. DS Arms SA58 FAL

FN Herstal developed the Fusil Automatique Léger (Light Automatic Rifle) in the 1940s and saw it completed in 1953. During the Cold War, many NATO countries adopted it as their primary battle rifle, where it earned its nickname “the right arm of the free world.”

It uses a fantastic short-stroke, spring-assisted piston action that was very modern at the time. The system is still relevant today, allowing the FAL to stand shoulder-to-shoulder with much newer firearms.

The FAL is one of the most battle-tested rifles on the planet, and usually, the trigger is considerably better than most of the G3 options out there, which may lead to better practical accuracy.

I love the FAL, and it’s one of those guns I think anyone looking to build a serious gun collection should have. For me, it sits slightly above the AK and slightly below the AR-10/15 in the pantheon of shoulderable small arms.

Of course, if you want one, you’ll have to talk to an importer and get a civilian one. For that, I recommend DSA SA58 lineup. DS Arms is one of few companies producing parts and accessories for the FAL, including complete rifles.

The SA58 is a solid recreation of the FAL that holds its own against the other non-AR .308s we’ve talked about in the accuracy department. Although modern versions of these guns tend to be pricier, hovering between $1,500 to $2,500, they are fun and steeped in rich history.

Check out our review of one of DSA’s modernized FAL variants here.

4. Springfield Armory M1A

Next up is the Springfield M1A. This is the civilian version of the iconic M14 — the rifle that trounced the AR-10 and FN FAL to become the U.S. Army’s primary battle rifle back in 1959 (however arguable those test results may be).

The M14 is, of course, a fully automatic military rifle, but the Springfield M1A is a semi-automatic, civilian version sold by Springfield Armory in various configurations.

You can get everything from the short-barreled SOCOM version to 21-inch barreled sniper configurations designed to get as much accuracy as possible out of the gun.

Some would say that M1A isn’t a great rifle, but I would disagree. Much of the accuracy of these guns is derived from a quality barrel and the mating of the action to the stock. This means that repeated detail strips of the gun can affect accuracy, especially on the base models.

Stepping up to the Loaded model that comes with the national match barrel is a good step in the right direction if you want those tighter groups. Fiberglass bedding between the action and stock will really let show you what a properly set up M1A can do accuracy-wise.

I own one in 6.5 Creedmoor, and I couldn’t be happier, but holy moly, do I want a .308 version. I just can’t quite justify the price for a second one, given that they run anywhere from $1,299 to $2,700, depending on trim level.

These rifles are a frequent sight on the field of competition, especially in service-rifle competitions. With classic ergonomics and excellent iron sights, the M1A lends itself well to shooting without optics.

The M14 is still used in a mostly honorary capacity by the U.S. military, with one or two exceptions — an especially notable one being its use by a number of competitive rifle teams from various branches.

While it may not be the best combat rifle or the cheapest battle rifle option these days, what it lacks, it makes up for in pure soul and fun. And if you aren’t sure which model is right for you, check out our ultimate guide to the best M1A models.

5. IWI Galil ACE Gen 2

Here comes the dark horse in the competition — the Galil ACE Gen 2 in 7.62×51 NATO. The first-generation Galil ACE was launched in 2008 but hasn’t been featured as heavily in the U.S. market, or video games for that matter, which kept it off many people’s radar.

So what is it, you ask? In a nutshell, the Galil ACE is the ultimate refinement of the AK-47 platform. It uses the same long-stroke piston and rotating bolt design as the Kalashnikov and even sports a similar pop-off dust cover.

What does all that mean? It means you get the robust and proven durability of the AK platform, combined with the hearty build quality that IWI is known for. Sprinkle in a version chambered for 7.62 NATO, and you have a hell of a battle rifle.

IWI recently introduced the Gen 2 version of the ACE. Updates include an M-LOK handguard, AR-style buffer tube for use with your favorite stocks, improved 2-stage trigger, and improved ergonomics.

By virtue of using a long-stroke piston, the ACE is able to have a folding stock and fire when folded. It also sports a non-reciprocating charging handle on the left side. Additionally, its cold hammer forged barrel ensures good accuracy and long service life.

Although a bit heavier than the SCAR-17S or the average AR-10, the ACE is still manageable at 8.6 pounds. The ACE also benefits from using standard SR-25/AR-10 magazines.

These rifles are a bit pricier, around $1,700 to $2,000, but are far from the most expensive on this list. If you are looking for something modern that isn’t an AR-10, the ACE might be your ticket.

Want to know more about the platform? Check out our full review of the 7.62×39 Galil ACE or watch Johnny B’s video below.

6. FN SCAR-17S

We’ve already given a spot on this list to the FN FAL, but I’d be remiss if I left out one of the most popular modern .308 battle rifles around.

The FN SCAR-H is a 7.62x51mm monster of a gun designed to be as modular as possible and to serve a variety of uses. From being a CQB weapon for various door-kickers and SF units to a scout sniper and sniper support platform, the SCAR-H can do it all.

A SCAR-H is a fully-automatic battle rifle capable of laying down 600 rounds a minute while also reaching out to the utmost limits of what the .308 cartridge is capable of.

Meanwhile, the SCAR-17S is the civilian version that goes bang as fast as your trigger finger can manage to go back and forth, and that’s plenty fast enough for me.

This is as solid of a rifle as you can get. The civilian version ships with a 16.5-inch barrel, but you can swap them out by removing just a few screws, allowing you to slot in any number of aftermarket barrels, from 13 to 20 inches, depending on your needs.

It uses a modern version of the short-stroke piston FN developed for the FAL, and it is currently in service in 24 countries around the world in one capacity or another.

For the civilian shooter like you and me, we get something that’s as military-tested as any rifle can be and is as close to military spec (aside from the lack of select-fire capability) as we can get.

The trigger is…not perfect, but certainly better than the FAL. The good news is that there are a considerable amount of aftermarket trigger options. If you’re going to slap a 20-inch barrel on there and stretch the SCAR out to 800 yards or more, you might consider swapping the trigger out.

All in all, it’s one of the best modern battle rifles out there and is pretty perfect if you’re looking for a heavy-duty semi-auto. The price is steep, but hey, you are getting a modern military-grade firearm, and that doesn’t always come cheap.

Be sure to check out our review of the SCAR-17S or watch the full video review below and let us know your take.

Final Thoughts

That was a look at some of the awesome semi-automatic .308 battle rifles out there. I certainly enjoyed writing it, and I hope some of this was helpful. If you haven’t found your next purchase, then hopefully, you at least learned something interesting.

What do you think of these rifles? Which one is your favorite? Thinking about getting one? Be sure to check out what to feed these beasts with our article on the Best .308 Ammo for Target Shooting, Plinking, & Hunting.

I love 7mm PRC. I built a custom 7mm PRC two months before the cartridge was ever even announced to the public, and have been shooting it constantly. I’ve learned a lot about what does and doesn’t work well for this platform.

7mm PRC is a unique cartridge. The more experience I have with it, the more I realize that it matches some rifles extremely well, and others less well. Because of that, I’m going to be straightforward in this post in saying some rifles that I simply can’t recommend for 7mm PRC.

Why You Can Trust This Review

• I have reviewed many dozens of hunting rifles to compare the best rifles at each price point.
• No rifle maker pays me for my opinions, which is why Backfire is one of few places you’ll see NEGATIVE as well as positive reviews. Most reviewers only talk about the good things because they want to please the manufacturers.
• I’ve been shooting 7mm PRC since before the cartridge was even announced. I own two 7mm PRC rifles.
• I have a somewhat rounded face, which research shows increases public trust in a person. Just kidding on this one 🙂

Later in this post, I’ll discuss some things to specifically look for in choosing a 7mm PRC rifle, but first, let’s dive in to some cool guns.

Option #1: Ruger American Go Wild!

The Ruger American has become a beloved rifle at the low end of the market. Compared to dozens of other cheap rifles I’ve reviewed for the Backfire Youtube Channel, the Ruger American is one of the only ones that I’ve found to shoot reliably accurate groups. However, one early reviewer of the RA in 7mm PRC did have some accuracy issues.

The “Go Wild!” edition of this gun adds a few features such as burnt bronze Cerakote on the barrel and action, a camo-printed stock, and a muzzle brake. The biggest upgrade to the “Go Wild!” models is the magazine, which is far more reliable than Ruger’s old rotary mag. The feeding still isn’t 100% perfect, but it’s a substantial improvement over the standard Ruger American.

Overall, the Ruger American Go Wild is an excellent choice for a budget 7mm PRC rifle. You’ll likely have good accuracy, the manufacturing consistency is reliable, and you’ll have a durable gun that will last a long time. Plus, you can always upgrade the stock down the road because there is a robust accessory market for the Ruger American.

However, I the increased price of the Go Wild edition of this rifle puts it in a price point that competes with the Bergara B14 Hunter, Tikka T3x, Franchi Momentum, and CVA Cascade. Once those rifles are released in 7mm PRC, I would easily adjust my recommendation to move to one of those options that I think are better rifles in this price bracket.

It’s important to note that while the Ruger American is the only budget 7mm PRC rifle I can recommend right now, it’s NOT the only budget option out there. The Mossberg Patriot has also been released in 7mm PRC, but I wouldn’t touch it with a 39.5′ pole. Later in this post, I’ll discuss the rifles I DON’T recommend in 7mm PRC.

Option #2: Savage 110 Ultralite

Savage was one of the first rifle makers to embrace the 7 PRC. While many companies announced support at the launch of the cartridge, Savage is actually shipping rifles and brought it to no less than 11 different models immediately.

The Savage 110 Ultralite is universally very accurate. The real selling feature of the rifle is that it utilizes a Proof Research carbon fiber barrel. That’s a very high-end precision barrel for a rifle in a factory rifle. It felt like I couldn’t miss when I did my full review of the Savage 110 Ultralite.

The knock on the Savage 110 Ultralite is that it uses a clumsy Savage action and an unreliable plastic magazine and mag catch. I was once told that a Savage 110 Ultralite is a “$1,000 barrel attached to a $400 gun.” It’s a funny comment, but honestly it’s a very functional stock. It has an adjustable cheek piece and length of pull, and is decently rigid in the forend. Plus, because so many stocks are inletted for the Savage 110, it’s a piece you could replace with a carbon fiber stock at some point in the future and you’d have an extremely fine rifle.

Still, if you can look past the Tupperware stock, you’ll have a sinfully accurate rifle that is incredibly lightweight for a reasonable price. When I purchased the Savage 110 Ultralite a few years ago, I got it for $1,195, but now they run closer to $1,500. Still, it’s a fair price for what the rifle is.

Here is a full list of rifles that Savage will be releasing in 7mm PRC:

• 110 Ultralite (HD or Camo) – $1,649 – $1,699
• 110 High Country – $1,239
• 110 Timberline (Right or left hand) – $1,239
• Impulse Big Game – $1,449
• Impulse Mountain Hunter – $2,437
• 110 Apex Hunter XP (Right or left hand) – $709
• 110 Apex Storm XP – $819

Option #3: Browning X-Bolt

The Browning X-Bolt line is a very compelling option for 7mm PRC. X-Bolt rifles are always styled to look cool, and I’ve found the manufacturing quality to be very reliable. Plus, they use a quality action with some cool features like the ability to pull the bolt back while still in safe.

If I were buying an X-Bolt in 7mm PRC, I would definitely look to their “SR” line. The “SR” line means “Suppressor Ready”, so you’ll get the muzzle threaded 5/8×24, and barrels that are 4″ shorter. Both of those are a great match for 7mm PRC, which does well in a shorter rifle, and also having a threaded barrel can help to reduce recoil by adding a brake or suppressor. Unfortunately, I haven’t seen the SR line yet available in 7mm PRC.

But no rifle is perfect. Here are a few issues I have with X-Bolt rifles:

• Metric Patterns – They stubbornly still thread many parts of the rifle using metric patterns, which means you can’t add a suppressor or brake without an adapter. (Note: Their SR models have standard 5/8×24 muzzle threads, but still use metric threads in other areas).
• Lawyer Triggers – Browning puts very heavy triggers in their rifles. It’s ironically called the “Feather Trigger.” I would not buy an X-Bolt without also buying a Timney replacement trigger for the X-Bolt. It’s a 2-minute install and you’ll have a much better gun.
• Price – Price points aren’t competitive anymore. It’s tough to recommend an X-Bolt when you can get a Bergara B14 with a much stiffer stock and better action, or a Savage Ultralite with a high-end carbon fiber wrapped barrel for the same price.

Option #4: Fierce Carbon Rogue

Fierce Firearms is a smaller rifle maker who creates all of their firearms in Utah. They stick out to me for a few reasons: (1) They are experts with carbon fiber so they’re rifles are usually very light, and (2) they make the coolest looking rifles on the market.

The Rogue is a hybrid rifle. It has a carbon stock and carbon-wrapped barrel. It has modern touches like a picatinny rail for mounting a bipod, and QD flush cups. Yet, it has a more traditional grip rather than a vertical pistol grip.

In my review of the Carbon Rogue, I found it to be accurate, extremely well-built, perfect at feeding, and it looks great. It’s a premium rifle at just over $2,000, but it can honestly compete with a full custom rifle that costs twice as much.

Watch my full review of the Rogue on Youtube.

Option #5: Fierce Mountain Reaper

Fierce Firearms has been one of my favorite manufacturers of high-end rifles for a while. They seem to understand that shooters want cool-looking, lightweight, shootable rifles.

While Fierce has had their Reaper model for quite a while, it was a little heavy. Now, they’ve started making the Mountain Reaper which takes all the best features of the Reaper, but puts them in a lightweight package.

It has a magnesium chassis, a titanium action, and weighs less than 6 lbs in many chamberings. Fierce rifles generally mitigate recoil well due to their stock designs and Limbsaver recoil pads, but I still might recommend a muzzle brake or suppressor to shoot 7 PRC in this light of a package. The recoil of the 7 PRC

The Fierce Mountain Reaper is available in 7 PRC with 20″ and 22″ barrels with a 1:8 twist, and personally I’d pick the 20″. My custom 7 PRC uses a 20″ barrel and I’m happy to see 2,950 fps with 150gr copper bullets for hunting.

Check out the Fierce Mountain Reaper.

Option #6: Put a 7mm PRC Barrel on a Rifle You Already Own

The fastest and cheapest way to start shooting 7mm PRC is to simply rebarrel one of your existing rifles. If you have a suitable rifle, such as a Tikka T3x, Bergara B14, Remington 700, or even a Ruger American, you can get a prefit barrel ordered and just screw it on. Done!

There are a few caveats, though. You’ll need a properly sized bolt face (the front part of the bolt that grabs on to the cartridge). The 7mm PRC uses the same bolt face as a 7mm Remington Magnum, 300 Win Mag, or a 300PRC or 6.5 PRC. If your rifle is already chambered to use that magnum bolt face, you’re set.

If your rifle doesn’t have that bolt face, you can either order a new bolt, or some actions have replaceable bolt faces which are cheap and easy to change out.

The next issue is you’ll need to make sure the rifle action is long enough. 7mm PRC has a cartridge overall length of 3.34″, so a long action is needed. If your rifle was chambered in .30-06, 300 Win Mag, 7mm Rem Mag or any other long-action cartridge, you’re set on this regard as well. If your rifle was configured for long action, you’ll probably also have a long enough magazine length for the cartridge as well.

Next, you’ll need a barrel. I like working with Preferred Barrel Blanks. They are already doing prefits for the 7 PRC, and have gone through a few reamers to find one that’s really reliable in a cartridge with extremely tight tolerances. I also found that they had many chassis options and other components available, which was nice.

Once you get your barrel, it’s just a matter of torquing it on in 5 minutes and you’re ready to go!

Option #7: Remington 700 Long Range

Remington absolutely destroyed its brand as a rifle maker over the last 20 years. Frankly, I was surprised that the owners of the new “Rem Arms” manufactured rifles even decided to bring the brand back. It seemed to me that the brand reputation was so destroyed that it would have been easier to start from scratch under a new name.

Yet, the reports I’ve heard so far from gun industry professionals that I trust has been positive. I still haven’t had my hands on one to review for the Backfire Youtube channel, but I’m eager to see if they’ve turned things around. I’ll believe it when I see it.

Prices for the new Remington in 7mm PRC are expected to be around the $1,000 price point.

Option #8: Christensen Arms MPR (And other models)

MPR stands for “Modern Precision Rifle.” It is a modern chassis design with adjustability in the stock, M-lok everywhere for attachments, and a pistol grip. It’s the type of rifle that most advanced shooters want.

I’ve reviewed a Christensen MPR on the Backfire Youtube channel and gave it mixed results. The mag well was so loose that I couldn’t believe it wasn’t a defect in the particular rifle I was using. The accuracy was okay, but not notable for a rifle in this price point. Plus, it was a little heavy for taking out into the woods.

In talking with other shooters, the MPR is a little polarizing. Some people get a good one that shoots very well and rave about it. I’ve talked with many others who have had poor accuracy or build quality issues.

Christensen is also chambering their other rifle models in 7 PRC, including:

• Ridgeline FFT – Order it from Midway USA –
• Mesa FFT – Order it from Midway USA –
• Traverse – Order it from Midway USA –
• ELR – Order it from MidwayUSA – A 7.5lbs rifle for long range shooting.
• MHR (coming soon)
• MPR

Option #9: Gunwerks Magnus Rifle System

If you are willing to shell out the big bucks (a little less than $6,000 for the bare rifle), then Gunwerks would be happy to take your money. They make extremely fine hunting rifles for shooters who value accuracy and a system that makes long-range shooting more streamlined.

Personally, if I were to spec out a new Gunwerks rifle today, I’d go with a Magnus rifle with these specs. I am naturally drawn to the lightweight hunting rifles, so I may be tempted to go with a Clymr, but after holding and playing with a Clymr stock, I found the comb was just too low to get a decent cheek weld. I can’t imagine paying that much for a rifle and having a stock that doesn’t fit.

The Magnus stock is only half a pound heavier, but provides much better ergonomics.

Gunwerks was very quick to jump on the 7mm PRC cartridge. They had their own 7 LRM cartridge for many years that was extremely similar to the 7 PRC’s design, so it wasn’t difficult for them to begin manufacturing the new cartridge.

Rifles in 7mm PRC That I Do NOT Recommend

• Mossberg Patriot – I bought a Patriot in 308. Shot some of the worst groups I’ve ever seen out of a rifle (over 5″ at 100 yards). Sent it to Mossberg for repairs and it came back shooting terrible again. Then I got a second Mossberg Patriot in 308. It also is incredibly inaccurate. I know some people have a good experience with theirs, but TWO lemons AND I sent it in for repairs and I still can’t get it to shoot? Can’t recommend.
• Savage Impulse (and Mountain Impulse) – I’m a big fan of the straight pull. It’s a really cool feature on a rifle; however, I’ve shot Savage’s Impulse twice and found it to be very clunky and heavy. Even their Mountain Impulse that is supposed to be a lightweight rifle is still a little obese for mountain hunters.
• Christensen MPR – So much of this rifle speaks to me. I love a folding stock, modern stock design with adjustable comb, and a carbon fiber design; however, I didn’t get great accuracy on the ones I’ve reviewed, and found the build quality to be okay at best. It’s an amazing design, but I don’t feel it has the polish of a gun in this price point.

What Guns Will NOT Be Available in 7mm PRC?

Surprisingly, some gun makers are noticeably absent from the list above.

The following gun makers have no imminent plans to add 7mm PRC to their lineups:

• Bergara – They told me it will likely come first in the Bergara Premier line, and then will eventually go into their less expensive guns. No models have been released yet in 7mm PRC.
• CVA – No news thus far.
• Springfield – No plans for 2020 Waypoint coming any time soon in 7mm PRC. I asked them at Shot Show and they were actually really rude about it. Totally gave me the cold shoulder for even bringing it up.
• Sig – No plans for a 7mm PRC Sig Cross coming any time soon.
• Tikka – Tikka/Sako have not announced any support for the 7mm PRC yet. Their reasoning is that they are members of CIP (basically a European version of SAAMI), which has not yet approved the 7mm PRC cartridge. I spoke with Hornady and they said they’ve already sent all information to CIP to get approved, but they work slowly.
• Weatherby – No news thus far.
• Howa – No news thus far.

List of Currently Available Rifles in 7mm PRC

The following table has a full list of the rifles that are currently announced and imminently available in 7mm PRC. There are over 20 rifle manufacturers who have announced they’ll be supporting the cartridge, but I haven’t yet seen listings for some of the volume manufacturers yet.

What to Look for in a 7mm PRC Rifle

Indulge me for a moment as we look at some of the very unique aspects of the cartridge, and what kind of rifle we would ideally have to take advantage of those unique features.

• Built for Long Range Shooting – 7mm bullets, if all else is equal have the highest BC’s of any other caliber in the most common bullets for hunting. Because of the high BC’s, you’ll have great resistance to drop and drift-making this a long-range shooter. Pick a rifle platform that matches that capability with a good adjustable comb and modern stock design to help you stretch this thing out.
• A Good Track Record of Attention to Detail and a Good Warranty – 7mm PRC uses very tight chamber tolerances. Several manufacturers I’ve worked with have spoken to me about struggling to not have their guns go over pressure if they slightly undersize the chamber, or having brass not fit properly. The PRC line can be tough for gun makers to get right, so pick a manufacturer with a good track record of customer service and attention to detail.
• Built for a Hybrid of Hunting and Range Shooting – One of the unique things about 7mm PRC is how versatile it is. The faster twist enables it to shoot heavy bullets suitable for hunting larger game, but its balance of speed and recoil also makes it a good fit for target shooting. Pick a rifle platform that allows you to take advantage of both-lightweight for hunting, but stock fitment features (like adjustable cheek piece and a good trigger) to make it do well on the range.
• 20″ or 22″ Barrel Lengths – Some shooters may want long 26″ barrels to take advantage of all of the speed available, but hunters generally want shorter barrel lengths to make the gun more packable. The 7mm PRC is well-suited to shorter barrel lengths because it has a moderate powder supply, and a fat case. For me, I went with a 20″ barrel, because I usually shoot suppressed and like the “handiness” of a short gun.
• Quality Recoil Pad, Threaded Muzzle – I’m picky about recoil pads. It makes a big difference in the felt recoil, but so many manufacturers use cheap, junky products. Because the recoil is on the upper end of what most adult shooters can shoot well, having a good recoil pad and a threaded muzzle so you can add a suppressor or muzzle brake, can make a big difference.
• Not Overly Light Weight – Because 7 PRC is built for longer range shooting and it has noticeable recoil, I’d suggest not going into an ultralight platform under 6.5 pounds unless you’ll be using a muzzle brake or suppressor.

List of Rifle Makers Supporting 7mm PRC

The following list comes from Hornady of rifle makers who have announced support for 7mm PRC rifles.

It’s spotted (or speckled) seatrout time!

I remember how excited I was the first time I finally figured out how to catch seatrout.

My only regret was that I really wish someone had taught me the three shortcuts that I am about to share with you.

Why?

Because I can vividly recall how frustrated I was getting when I was hardly catching anything on our vacation trips to the coast when I was used to consistently catching bass on the lakes in my hometown… it was painfully frustrating!

To me, fishing was not just a basic hobby to fill in free time… it was an absolute passion.

It is what I spent all of my lawn mowing money on. And I would do all I could do to get out on the water as much as humanly possible.

This passion allowed me to become a very accomplished bass angler at a young age, but I had a very difficult time making the proper adjustments to find success along the coast of Florida.

So here are three essential shortcuts that anyone can use for catching seatrout in Florida (and beyond):

1. Learn How To Assess An Area For Feeding Seatrout

Learning how to assess an area for feeding seatrout is by far the most important shortcut of all.

It is the core factor causing most anglers to come home empty handed… or nothing more than a measly catfish (which many believe are even worse than catching nothing at all).

To be able to consistently catch seatrout, it is absolutely essential to be able to quickly assess an area for it potential to be a good feeding ground.

Without this knowledge, you’ll waste tons of time fishing in spots that have very little chance of success.

Fortunately, finding good seatrout feeding areas isn’t complicated and doesn’t require a sixth sense…

In fact, it’s actually quite easy once you simply focus on these 3 things:

1. Structure
2. Bait
3. Current

Yes, these three simple variables will significantly help you find good areas to catch seatrout… even in regions that you’ve never even been to before which will make vacation trips to a new area even more enjoyable.

Here’s a breakdown of what to consider within each of the variables:

Structure

In saltwater fishing, there are a lot of different forms of structure that often hold predator fish like seatrout, redfish, snook, etc… here’s a brief list:

• Seagrass*
• Oyster Bars
• Points
• Trees/Roots/Stumps
• Rocks
• Docks

*For the quickest shortcut for finding seatrout, I recommend focusing on underwater seagrass because seatrout often stay around seagrass beds where they feed and reproduce.

So focusing on seagrass will be key in consistently catching trout, and these areas can be easy to spot from free online maps with the trained eye…

Note: Secret tips for reading this online map image example for seatrout feeding areas is explained below the putting it all together section.

Bait

If we could read a seatrout’s mind, my guess is that only two things will be there:

1. Where can I get my next meal?
2. How can I not be a meal to something else?

Knowing that food is one of their primary concerns, it is extremely important to pay attention to what type of bait is in the area you’re fishing.

If you’re not seeing any type of bait making ripples on the surface or flashing under the water, and you’re also not feeling any slight nibbles on your lure from small pinfish, snapper, etc., then it’s time to move to another spot where more food is present.

When you are seeing bait, make sure to take note of its size and shape so that you can select a lure that resembles the bait that’s in the area.

But when in doubt, a 3 to 4-inch soft plastic jig is a safe bet.

And when using soft plastics, always remember that rigging it is incredibly essential… here’s a video showing how to rig one of my favorite trout jigs:

Current

Seatrout are ambush predators that prefer to stay still and pounce on an unsuspecting prey for an easy meal.

And current significantly helps them get more food with less effort because it allows them to hide in the seagrass while waiting on shrimp or small baitfish to come close to their hiding spot.

So I recommend focusing on areas that are close to passes/inlets that get a good amount of clean running water throughout tidal fluctuations whenever possible.

Putting It All Together: Structure + Bait + Current

Since seatrout are focused on where they’ll find their next meal while being protected from becoming the next meal to something bigger, focusing on areas that have healthy seagrass, bait, and some current is incredibly important.

Having two of those variables is great, but having all 3 should be the core goal.

Wondering how to find areas with good seagrass?

Although nothing beats seeing areas firsthand, there simply isn’t enough time in the day to check out all areas from the water.

And of course not all seagrass areas are created equal… here’s an easy tip that’ll help narrow down your search.

I highly recommend using online maps like Google or Bing so that you can narrow down your search to areas that have grass that’s visible from satellite images.

How To Use Online Maps To Find Seagrass

For seatrout, I have the best results fishing areas with healthy grass with potholes scattered around… from online maps, this ideal bottom looks like a camo pattern (see below):

As you can see, these online satellite maps can show a very good look at the bottom structure and respective contour. And this helpful insight allows you to put together a good plan before you even get out on the water.

For example, you can clearly see the dark regions (which is seagrass)… and the light areas that are mixed in the dark grass areas are potholes that seatrout often use as ambush points.

Further, you can even use the clarity of the bottom to get a pretty good gauge at the depth of the water.

With this knowledge, you now know what specific areas to target during a certain tide.

For example, low tide would make the deeper spots more appealing while a high tide typically has the fish shifting up into shallower areas to feed.

How to Determine Water Depth From Satellite Images

To determine the water depth, you simply can use the clarity of the lines between sand and grass to be able to judge its depth.

For example, the edges of sand to grass in the areas where the “Shallow Camo” text is displayed is much more crisp than the surrounding areas which means that it’s shallower. This spot is so shallow and clear that you can even see prop scars in the grass (the white lines are from Googans running over the flat while their prop is cutting up the grass).

Important Note: Always be very mindful of your motor when going over grassflats because it takes seagrass a very long time to recover from prop damage… slow down to no wake and trim the motor way up so that it’s out of the grass. I even have passengers get up to the front of my boat so that it raises the prop even higher (surprisingly effective for small boats).

2. Use The Right Gear

Many people cringe when thinking about having to go to a store to pick out fishing equipment knowing that the budget seems to get overblown every time.

But for seatrout, the tackle used to catch them does not have to be top of the line. In fact, I find that most people spend way more than necessary when targeting seatrout and redfish on the flats and inshore waterways.

Since seatrout aren’t the strongest fighters, and their teeth (although sharp) are not good at breaking leaders so heavy tackle is not needed.

In fact, I found that I catch way more fish when I’m using my 10 lb braid with 20 lb leader than I ever did when I used to use 20 lb main line to 30+ lb leader… and not just more, I’m catching much bigger fish too.

So here’s what I recommend for seatrout:

• Rod – 7′ to 7’6″ Medium to Medium Heavy
• Reel – small spinning reel (2000 to 2500 series for most brands)
• Line – 8 lb to 10 lb braid
• Leader – 20 lb fluorocarbon
• Lure – soft plastic bait rigged on a jig head

And here are some specifics for each:

Best Fishing Rod For Seatrout

Although most people seem to focus on the quality of their fishing reels with little attention paid to the rod, I completely disagree with that order of importance.

For example, I’d much rather go fishing with a $10 kids reel attached to a good rod, than use a $400 reel paired with a $10 kids rod.

This is because the rod does a vast majority of the work:

• Casts bait
• Feels strikes
• Sets the hook
• Works lure (assuming artificial lure is being used)
• Provides necessary bending cushion when fighting fish

Essentially, the fishing rod an extension of your hands and it is in charge of the most important tasks.

So I highly recommend budgeting the most money for a good rod for inshore fishing.

For fishing artificials, I like Medium to Medium-Heavy rods. And if using live bait, it’ll to go with Medium rods (many people seem to like Medium Light rods for live baiting, but I have not yet found a ML rod that I like).

Best Fishing Reel For Seatrout

In contrast to the rod tasks specified above, a reel essentially does only two things:

• Retrieves line
• Provides drag when fighting a big fish

And although these two tasks are important, the difference in smoothness between a basic reel and a top of the line $400 reel isn’t worth the upgrade for most weekend warrior anglers.

And the drag is of course very important, but that doesn’t even come into play unless the rod handles its tasks effectively.

Plus, seatrout typically do not fight hard at first so they’re easy to pull away from structure when using light line.

And the proper drag setting for a reel is just 20% to 30% of the line strength, so the drag needed when using 10 lb line is just 2 to 3 lbs, which even the most basic reels can provide.

So I now stick with smaller reels (2000 to 2500 series) because they are lighter (more comfortable on a full day of casting) with the added benefit of being more affordable. And although small, they still hold plenty of line and even the inexpensive ones provide plenty of drag.

Best Fishing Line For Seatrout

After I finally was talked into trying out braid after years and years of mono use, I firmly believe that braided line is the way to go for targeting seatrout, redfish, snook, and most other inshore species.

This is because its very thin and non-stretch characteristics combine to allow for much more distance in casting and much better feel of strikes… and these two benefits can be a game-changer for inshore anglers.

But if you’re new to braid or you’re about to make the jump, make sure to know how to spool it properly as well as which knots to tie because adjustments are needed for braid because of its slick surface.

Note: Here are two articles that you should read if you’re not yet comfortable with braid:

• Best Fishing Knot For Braided Line
• How To Spool A Spinning Reel While Saving Time & Money

Although braid is much thinner than mono, some anglers chose their braid based on the similar diameter to mono theory… thinking that using a 30 lb braid for seatrout is ok because its diameter is equal to a 10 lb mono… but that sort of thinking will hinder your catch results.

Instead of comparing line diameters to other alternatives in mono, simply put your focus on getting the smallest diameter line possible while still having enough power to land your target species.

And my best answer to that for inshore fishing has been 10 lb braid… not only for seatrout of all sizes, but I’ve landed 40+ inch snook, redfish, and tarpon on it too so it’s plenty strong (knot contests with 10 lb PowerPro using the FG Knot have surpassed 20 lbs of strength).

Note: If you’re worried that lightweight rods and small reels won’t be able to handle a big trout or redfish that hits, then watch the video below where a ~50 lb tarpon in landed on a 2500 series spinning reel with 10 lb braid:

Best Leader Line For Seatrout

There seems to be a lot of debate between traditional monofilament line users and those who use the newer Fluorocarbon. In case you haven’t heard of fluoro, it’s a type of monofilament line that has roughly the same density as water, and it’s known to be less visible to fish since it decreases the refraction of light.

The debate against fluoro seems to focus on reflection being the core reason why fish can see line or not (vs. refraction) making the refraction benefit of fluoro a non-issue.

However, there seems to be greater consensus that fluorocarbon is better at withstanding abrasions, so many use it for their leader material knowing that their target species have some sharp teeth.

Whichever type of mono you choose (traditional of fluoro), I recommend using 20 lb leader when targeting seatrout because that’s plenty to land even the gators while being small enough to not spook them on days that they’re leader shy.

Best Lures For Seatrout

Seatrout are a favorite species of many inshore anglers because of their propensity to aggressively attack a very large variety of lures.

My personal favorite in terms of fun is to use topwater lures to get them to come up and attack the lure at the surface of the water.

Many great options are available at almost any tackle shop such as spooks, skitterwalks, etc.

But my go-to lure when wanting the maximize the quantity of seatrout that I’ll catch is undoubtedly a soft plastic bait rigged on a light jig head. These jigs can get strikes all day long. And they can be successfully worked to target any specific depth that they seem to be holding in.

As for jig head size, I almost always stick with 1/8th oz and focus in on areas that are in 2 ft to 5 ft of water.

For the soft plastics used, I’ve found plenty of success with from Berkely, Zman, Zoom, DOA, etc. (there are an absolute ton of options).

3. Learn How To Use The Right Gear

The great thing about inshore fishing is that it’s not about having the best boat, kayak, rod, reel, line, lure, fishing clothes, etc… it’s all about knowing how to use what you’ve got.

It’s 100% about knowing how to find areas with good fish and then knowing how to successfully use your tackle to generate strikes.

And many of the best fishing areas are accessible by foot or even the cheapest of all kayaks that can be used to simply paddle across a channel to wade fish a good flat.

Best of all, I’ve found that it’s much better to become an expert at just one lure than to be decent at using a whole tackle shop full, so you can catch a ton of fish with just using one lure and one rod/reel combo.

And if you decide to make the soft plastic bait rigged on a jig head to be your go-to lure, then here’s a video showing some helpful tips on maximizing your results by getting strikes from seatrout that aren’t actively feeding.

Note: If you’re serious about consistently catching seatrout along with other inshore species, then I highly recommend taking advantage of our 30-day risk-free trial of our Inshore Slammer course… click here to learn about this popular online fishing course.

Conclusion

Learning how to catch seatrout can seem like a daunting task. But as you’ll find after focusing on the essentials, it’s truly not as hard as most people think.

And when you combine the art of knowing how to find areas that are prone to have feeding trout along with the art of generating strikes, you’ll find that they days of getting skunked will be a distant memory.

These basic tips should allow you to go out and find the most common sized trout on the grass flats making for many fun memories with friends and family.

If you’re interested in learning the secrets to catching gator trout along with redfish and snook, then I highly recommend giving our online fishing course called the Inshore Slammer Online Fishing Course a shot because we have a 100% Thrilled guarantee behind it…

Meaning that you get a full refund if you’re somehow not 100% thrilled that you took the course.

Click here to learn more about the Inshore Slammer

And if you haven’t seen the 4-part Trout Tutorial video series with Capt. C.A. Richardson, I urge you to click here so you can get all four videos emailed to you for free.

[Important Note]: Of all the inshore fish, spotted seatrout are one of the most fragile of all so it is essential that we take the best possible care of all trout that are going to be released. Click here to see The Complete Guide To Catch, Photo, & Release Fishing.

P.S. – If you have any friends who could use some pointers on consistently catching seatrout, please share this article with them so they can have more fun out on the water.

When most hunters think about going out of state for a hunt, their minds turn to getting drawn for elk or mule deer out west. The truth is there are a lot of great out-of-state hunts in the east for whitetail that can offer chances at good deer, without worrying about draws, with some really affordable tags.

If this year has you wanting to get away, but you missed the window to get drawn, here are some over-the-counter options that might not be as far away or expensive, but still get you out of the house and in some new areas, with a chance at a trophy.

WISCONSIN

Wisconsin leads the list for a couple reasons. First, the quality of deer in Wisconsin is incredible. No doubt you’ve heard the tales of Buffalo County, but there are great hunting opportunities to be had throughout the state.

Second, it’s affordable. Non-resident hunters can get in the field legally for around $160, which is super affordable. Never hunted Wisconsin before? You can give it a try even cheaper. Wisconsin has a program for first-time license buyers in the state that basically knocks 50% off your tag. It doesn’t get much better than that does it?

Bonus for non-resident hunters in Wisconsin; lots of public ground. About 18% of Wisconsin ground is public, so you can put boots on the ground and start hunting pretty much right away. A lot of that public ground is further north where the hunting can be a little harder than in the more agriculture-laden southern part of the state, but there are still deer to be had.

You will want to be mindful of CWD zones and any regulations that go along with those, but if you are looking for public-land hunting in a state where a true monster buck can be had, Wisconsin is it, and that’s why it tops the list. For more details and to stay legal in the Badger state visit https://dnr.wisconsin.gov/.

OHIO

Ohio isn’t a secret when it comes to big deer. What might be a secret is just how affordable it is for hunters who come from out of state to hunt there.

Non-resident hunters need to purchase a hunting license for $125, and then your buck tag will run you $24. So, for just under $150, you are up and running the state of Ohio. The Ohio tag and license structure is also one of, if not the, most logical licensing systems in the country as far as I’m concerned. You purchased your buck or doe tag and it’s good for any season. Go to the Buckeye state for archery, but don’t seal the deal? You can return with your tag still in hand for their firearms season and still be legal. It’s straightforward, it’s legal, and frankly MOST states could take a page from the Ohio regulation book in this regard.

If there’s a downside, it’s the lack of public hunting ground. Just 4.2% of Ohio is public, so there isn’t no public ground, but you won’t have the options of some other states. That said, a little scouting, a little hard work, and maybe a few phone calls can get you on some ground that may well hold the deer of a lifetime.

The Ohio DNR website is currently being redesigned, but keep checking for details.

INDIANA

While it isn’t mentioned with the same reverence as other states on this list, or in deer hunting in general, don’t sleep on the Hoosier state. Those paying attention have seen the quality of deer Indiana has been turning out with increasing numbers for the last decade, and while the herd management has lagged behind some other states, and still has some substantial holes, big deer abound here.

The biggest problem in Indiana has been their unwillingness to streamline and simplify that licensing process that in many ways is still a holdover from before Indiana went to the one-buck rule more than two decades ago. Simplest thing to do? Just buy the deer license bundle. It covers all weapons seasons, and allows you to take a buck and two does, or three does, for just $295 as a non-resident. Buy the bundle and don’t take a deer during archery? Come back for the general firearms or muzzleloaders seasons with a tag that’s still good. Archery opens October 1, and both the general firearms and muzzleloader season are two full weeks spanning three weekends. Plenty of time to get in the woods.

Indiana was a slug gun state for a long time, then went to pistol cartridge rifles, and in the last few years has opened up to a host of other rifle options, but there are still limitations, so be sure to double check the regulations to make sure you’re legal, especially if you end up on public grounds. Tags and weapons have additional restrictions on public land that could cause you issues if you aren’t paying attention. Certain doe tags aren’t valid on public land, and the same goes for rifle calibers.

Much like Ohio, less than 5% of the state is public ground, so you may have to work to find spots to hunt, but they are there, and the chances of a big deer being there are pretty good.

Find out about deer hunting in Indiana by visiting https://www.in.gov/dnr/fishwild/2344.htm.

Wherever you choose to hunt this fall, even if you don’t go out of state, stay safe and good luck!

We all know AR-type rifles have a military background. We know they’re also referred to as “Assault Rifles.” Now that the elephant is out of the room let’s move on to look at why the Daniel Defense Ambush Series should have a spot in your lineup this fall.

But first, why in God’s name would someone choose an AR for hunting?

AR rifles bring a lot to the table for hunters. For starters, the overall construction of the AR is metal (where it counts) so there’s nothing to swell or crack, and there won’t be a shift in harmonics between hot or cold weather. This design also makes the rifle relatively impervious to water—perfect for a nasty forecast. The stock can be quickly adjusted, accommodating the big and tall or smaller framed shooter such as a lady or youth hunter. With a flat-top design there’s loads of real estate for optics and eye relief so the rifle can literally grow with a developing shooter. Lastly, they’re very quick-handling allowing for fast follow-up shots. So how does the Daniel Defense Ambush rate as a purpose-built hunting rifle?

The Ambush model I received is the .308 variant. The initial stand-out was the bulk of the rifle (aka upper & lower), was hydro-dipped in Kryptek camo, one of my favorite and most versatile patterns. As soon as I picked up the rifle, I realized I wouldn’t need to worry about variations in terrain because I wouldn’t carry this gun far enough for there to be any real changes in environment. At 11 lbs. with optic you’ll realize you don’t want to take the Ambush for a long walk. Weight isn’t always a bad thing for hunting though and, when I’m on a still hunt, I actually prefer a heavier rifle. A hefty but good-shooting rig is great in a deer stand or in a coyote hide, and I knew the Ambush would shine on a predator hunt if it was accurate. Dry-firing showed off the trigger, sourced from the best, Geissele. The weight of the trigger wasn’t super light but the break was very clean and I was confident it would aid in the rifle’s accuracy.

To test the rifle I first mounted my Spartan Precision Javelin bipod. In the past I’ve used this bipod with great accuracy results, and I relied on it recently in Africa for it’s added stability and fast removal in the field. Next, I added my suppressor, mimicking my ideal coyote setup. So how did the Ambush perform on the range?

I was a bit surprised by how accurate the Ambush is with factory ammo. With the 155 gr. Hornady ELD Match ammo my first two 100 yd groups measured .792” and .872”. This is good accuracy for ANY rifle, but in a semi-auto capable of rapid-repeat shots this is downright impressive. The Hornady ELD-X Precision Hunter averaged nearly a one inch grouping. Another point worth mentioning is the rifle’s extremely mild recoil. The rifle’s weight and gas operation tame what would be a snappy cartridge into something I’d let my 8 year old shoot. On the range this is one of those rifles you just won’t want to stop shooting, and with the .308’s availability of cheap surplus ammo you can have a high volume range session without breaking the bank.

In summary, this AR is a worthy hunting rifle. As a deer rifle the Ambush is a great option for hunting from a stand or from a ground blind. As a predator rifle, a good shooter should have no problem putting multiple coyotes on the ground out to 500 yds. At moderate to intermediate distances paired coyotes often run for a short clip and then stop to look back in the direction of the shot when a hunter sends a round down range. With the Ambush, you should have the first dog on the ground and another pill on the way for the second guy when he stops to look back at his fate.

As Thanksgiving is just around the corner, I and my friends decided to go on a Turkey hunt. Laced with all the basic gear, we devised a hunting plan, however, one question that bugged us was that Can Turkeys smell? Can they trace a hunter with their sense of smell? After thorough research, I got some answers which are worth sharing this Thanksgiving.

Turkey belongs to the genus Meleagris and has two extant species the Wild turkey and Ocellated turkey. Over the years, Turkey has become a staple of Thanksgiving feast and Christmas dinner for its delicious and lean meat.

So, back to our quest, can turkey smell? Let’s elaborate on the subject to give you a better understanding.

Can Turkeys Smell?

Turkeys have a poor sense of smell which often works in the hunter’s favor. Many people fret about the fact that Turkey’s sense of smell might ruin an otherwise perfect hunt.

So when tracking down a gobbler in the hunt, it is highly likely that poor Turkey is not going to sense danger. Though, Turkey has a poor sense of smell it will outsmart the hunter in many other ways.

Turkey’s Sense of Smell

According to Journals of uchicago Unlike dogs and some other animals, wild Turkeys possess a poor sense of smell. The sense of smell is associated with the olfactory lobes, located in the forepart of the brain. Turkey has a poor sense of smell because of the under-developed olfactory lobes.

Unlike Turkey, Canine has an extremely sharp sense of smell because of the highly developed olfactory lobes. Vultures, condors, and griffons are considered exceptions as they are bestowed with a sharp sense of smell.

Do Turkeys Lack a Sense of Smell?

This saying is always linked with Turkey’s sense of smell ” If they could smell you, you’d never kill them.”

Turkeys do not lack a sense of smell but it is almost non-existent. Because of small under-developed olfactory lobes, many scientists believe their sense of smell to be equivalent to lacking.

Can Turkeys Smell Food Items?

Yes, They can. Even though the Turkeys have a poor sense of smell, but they can discern food items.

They are capable of sensing food items through smell. Turkeys lose the bet when it comes to taste and smell. Turkeys do not have a well-developed sense of taste and smell they mostly rely on their incredible vision and hearing.

Can Turkeys Locate food Using the Olfactory Gland?

Even though it is said that Turkeys have a poor sense of smell and taste, which leads to another question of how do they select only certain types of seeds, fruit, and suet from the feed?

That can be explained by the fact that they do have a sense of smell and taste even if it’s poor, the Olfactory glands are sufficient enough to help them distinguish their favorite food items. Some wild turkeys eat ticks by smelling.

How the development of Olfactory lobes affect Turkey’s sense of smell?

Turkeys are not blessed with a sharp sense of smell. Turkeys do not have a developed sense of smell as the brain region that controls olfaction is smaller in size. Smaller olfactory lobes are the reason Turkeys have little to no sense of smell.

Do Turkeys Have Nostrils?

Yes, they have well-developed see-through nostrils but that does not mean it helps in magically improving Turkey’s sense of smell. Turkey’s sense of odor is not heightened or weakened by the presence of nostrils or their size rather it is controlled by the brain.

Turkeys sniff

Turkeys can sniff but that does not mean they are going to smell far off things. Turkeys’ poor sense of odor comes in the way every time they try to sniff or smell something.

Does Scent Control help in hunting wild Turkeys?

No, there is no need to apply scent control when hunting a wild Turkey. They are not going to smell a hunter’s presence anyway thanks to their poor sense of smell. However, to not lure other wild animals when hunting in a forest, a hunter might want the help of scent control.

Does lust scent work for Turkeys?

No, lust scent would not be able to draw Turkey closer to the hunter. They would not be able to smell the scent in the first place let alone come closer.

Do Turkeys have Highly developed five senses?

Turkey does not even book a spot in the Top 10 when it comes to their sense of smell and taste. However, Turkey’s daylight vision is amazing, it is often said that they can see through a knothole. The sense of hearing and touch is also stronger in Turkeys.

Frequently Asked Questions

In brief, before going on a Turkey hunt, the hunter needs a better understanding of Turkey’s senses to devise a clever strategy to track down the gobbler. Turkeys do not have a well-developed sense of smell because of the relatively smaller size of the olfactory lobes. So, they are not going to smell out a hunter tracking them, however, they may outsmart him with their incredible vision and hearing.

It could be argued that Ohio’s so-called “Hole-In-The-Horn Buck” is the most famous whitetail in the world. In fact, this legendary deer, with his incredible rack and story to match, might well be the most famous big game animal ever to come from the North American continent!

My own involvement in this story began sometime around 1977 when I was in the business of outfitting guided hunts, primarily for trophy whitetails. As a group of hunters and I sat around a campfire one evening, one of the clients pulled out photos of two of the largest bucks I’d ever seen. Supposedly, a “friend” of his had killed both animals, but my client couldn’t offer any other details. Although those bucks remained firmly implanted in my mind, further details continued to be unavailable for the next few years.

Then, in the early 1980s, I was fortunate to meet Fred Goodwin of Sherman Mills, Maine, one of America’s foremost whitetail collectors. Fred had gathered more than 1,300 sets of antlers over a span of nearly 70 years, and along with these, he’d acquired thousands of antler photos. As dug through cigar and shoe boxes full of photos, one in particular caught my eye — a photo just like one of those I’d seen four years earlier around that camp­fire!

The inscription on the back of the photo, which was in Fred’s handwriting, read, “giant non-typical found dead along railroad tracks, greatest spread 36 inches, 60 points, Kent, Ohio.” I soon learned that Fred had acquired the photo several years earlier from one of his many pen pals. Fred had never seen the buck, but he claimed it was the largest non-typical whitetail he knew of.

Eventually, I learned that the photo had come from a private hunting club in Kent, Ohio, and that the buck still hung in the bar there. In the summer of 1982, I talked with a couple of club members to learn more of this deer. Because of time and distance from my Montana home, however, it was actually August 1983 before I could travel to Kent to see the giant for myself.

By then, he’d hung in the smoke-filled bar for right at 40 years, and both the mount and antlers were nearly black from stains and dust. But, I immediately knew the antlers were of gigantic proportions and that they were even larger than they’d appeared in the photo. My initial rough score was off the “Richter Scale,” at 349 2/8 Boone and Crockett points well above that of the recently discovered 333 7/8-point world record from Missouri!

At the time of my visit, widespread interest in collecting whitetail racks was just beginning. I’d already acquired a substantial collection of outstanding bucks (many of which are featured in this book) and had begun displaying them at sportsmen’s shows. The Kent Canadian Club was interested in making its giant buck more visible to the general public, and I eventually acquired the mounted head.

North American WHITETAIL maga­zine, which I had been involved with since I helped in its founding in 1982, also played an instrumental role in this saga. We shared a common goal of uncovering the origin and history of the buck and passing along that information to the hunting public. As I dug into the deer’s back­ground, learned that he’d been found dead more than 40 years earlier and had hung in virtual seclusion ever since.

The Kent Canadian Club was founded in the early 1920s by a group of local hunters and fishermen who shared a special sporting interest in Ontario, Canada, and fellowship at their local clubhouse/bar in Kent. In the early days of the club, land was purchased at a site along the French River, where it joins Elephant Lake in Ontario. Later, a main lodge and cabins, bath houses, etc., were added, and it became the focal point of recreation for the membership.

Because most of the membership lived near Kent, a clubhouse/bar was also established there. The club’s 300 social members can use the local facility, but only the 20 “backroom” members are allowed to use the Ontario site.

One of the early members, Charlie Flowers, was an engineer for Erie Railroad Company of Ohio and appar­ently was directly responsible for the club’s ownership of the rack. It’s unclear whether Charlie was one of the individu­als who found the deer or if he merely came into possession of the antlers from another person. Regardless, he ended up with the rack.

At the time I acquired the Hole-In-The-Horn, the circumstances surround­ing the buck’s death and recovery were largely speculative. According to descen­dants of those involved and other infor­mation available then, the buck had been found dead along the railroad right-of-way near Windham, Ohio, in 1940 or shortly there­after. The carcass was badly decom­posed, so only the head was salvaged. It was believed that one of the engineers spotted the dead buck from the train itself and at some point (then, or at a later date) recovered the antlers.

According to what I could learn at the time of my investigation, the buck had been found in or near the Ravenna Arsenal in Portage County. This arsenal is still used for storage of military munitions, and for security reasons, it’s surrounded by a high fence. What nobody could tell me was whether or not the fence had played some role in the deer’s death. Had the barrier caused him to become trapped, resulting in death by collision with the train? Or, had he perhaps become entangled in the fence itself and died from injuries, stress or starva­tion? And for that matter, on which side of the fence was he found? Apparently, nobody knew.

I was told that Charlie had sold the rack to the Kent Canadian Club for $25. The club then commissioned Ben Morgan, a taxidermist in nearby Akron, to acquire a new cape and mount the head. Once completed, it hung in the club’s bar and essential­ly remained anonymous until I “dis­covered” it. But, this was not just any deer hanging in a bar he would have been the undisput­ed world record for 40 years!

Once the head arrived at my home, there was time for closer scrutiny and opportunity for more careful measuring. There was no doubt that the head would become either No. 1 or No. 2 in the B&C record book. The staff at North American WHITETAIL and I knew this buck was a world record contender, so we searched for a name that would give him his own identity. Because there was no hunter’s name to attach to this deer, as there is with most other trophy heads, we had to find something else to call him.

At that time, perhaps the most myste­rious aspect of this rack was the fact that one of the large drop tines on the right main beam had a small hole through it. There was a great deal of speculation as to how and when the hole was cre­ated, so we dubbed this awesome ani­mal the “Hole-In­The-Horn Buck.” That moniker has since become universally accepted.

From the first time I unofficially scored the head, I knew it was a mea­surer’s night­mare, as it

had configurations of antler never before encountered on any whitetail rack. There was obviously more than one interpreta­tion of how it should be scored, but most of the net scores from my measurements and those of many experienced measur­ers fell somewhere in the 340s—usually between 342 and 349 points.

Based on these unofficial scores, we felt the probability was high that this buck’s final score would exceed the 333 7/8-point score of the world record “St. Louis Buck,” which had been found dead less than two years earlier. But, we also knew the margin was close enough that the official scoring for entry into the records should not be done by just any official measurer. We wanted it done by someone who was very experienced and well respected within B&C’s ranks. No measurer fit this descrip­tion better than Phil Wright, chairman of the Scoring Committee and one of the most senior mem­bers of the club.

On August 27, 1983, the head was taken to Phil for the official scoring. After long and careful exam­ination, he arrived at an entry score of 342 3/8, well above the world record. Phil also stated at the time that two or three other abnormal points he hadn’t included in the total possibly could be added in during a final scoring by B&C judges’ panel. If these points were includ­ed, the final score would be close to 349 points, very near my initial net score.

Based upon Phil’s official entry score, the December 1983 issue North American WHITETAIL announced the shocking news of this historic buck and published information on both his “discovery” and the recent scoring. The magazine called the buck a “new world record,” because according to Phil’s official entry score, he was indeed just that.

Just a year prior to the initial scoring of the Hole-In-The-Horn, the enormous buck found dead near St. Louis had been officially scored by B&C measurer Dean Murphy, who also worked for the Missouri Department of Conservation and was an official member of the Awards Program judges’ panel. Based upon Dean’s entry score of 325 3/8 points, the Missouri buck had been highly publicized by newspapers and sporting maga­zines (including North American WHITETAIL) as a “new world record.”

When the St. Louis Buck had first been announced to the world, he wasn’t yet an “official” world record, because he hadn’t been verified as such by a panel of B&C measurers. He was to be remeasured in the spring of 1983, at which time a final deci­sion on his score would be rendered. However, to my knowledge, there was no negative reaction to claiming this deer to be/the next No.1 non-typical.

The announcement of the Hole-In­The-Horn Buck in North American WHITETAIL followed that precedent. According to an official score sheet filled out by Phil Wright, the Ohio buck was just as much a “new world record” as the Missouri buck had been the previous year, when all anyone had to go on was Dean’s entry score.

Only a couple of months prior to my acquiring the Hole-In-The-Horn Buck, in the summer of 1983, B&C’s 18th Awards Program was held. There, the official score of the Missouri buck was raised from 325 3/8 points to 333 7/8. At the time, this hardly seemed an issue, because either way, the score was far in excess of Jeff Benson’s 286-point world record from Texas. But now, there was a new contender for that crown.

The next three-year scor­ing period culmi­nated with the 19th Awards Program on June 28, 1986. Top recent entries in all big game categories were to be on hand for panel scoring and display. It was pointed out by B&C officials that should the Hole-In-The-Horn not appear, he’d be listed in the next record book with an asterisk, indicating that the score shown was still subject to verification by a judges’ panel. What’s more, we were told that the deer could be dropped from the record book at some point in the future if not panel-measured. Eager to have the score confirmed, I placed the Hole-In-The-­Horn in the cus­tody of Phil Wright for trans­portation to the Awards Program.

When the buck was remea­sured by the panel, the original 5×5 typical frame was rejected and a 4×4 typical configuration chosen. The final score submitted by the panel was 328 2/8 points, and it wasn’t subject to appeal. To everybody’s sur­prise, the Hole-In-The-Horn had become the official No. 2 non-typical.

From the first announcement of the original entry score of this buck, there was in certain quarters criticism of claims that he was a new world record. This seemed strange to me at the time, and still does, because the first wave of pub­licity on the Hole-In-The-Horn was little different from that regarding the Missouri buck. When these deer were revealed to the public, neither was an “official” world record; however, each had been entered at a score that, if upheld, would make him one.

Whatever the motivations for down­playing the Ohio buck, the resulting confusion about which buck was actually “bigger” detracted from the fact that these two racks tower above all others as the largest of all time. Both the Hole-In-The­-Horn and the St. Louis Buck are of a size that could hardly even have been imagined before they surfaced. Since the B&C record book had been founded, the Benson Buck from Texas had been the undisputed No. 1 non-typical. Then, out of the clear blue, within a couple of years of each other, two bucks that exceeded even the most optimistic dreams of the white­tail fraternity had come onto the scene. A new benchmark had been established.

Regardless of his final score, the Hole-In-The-Horn Buck is undeniably one of the two most awesome non-typi­cals of all time. Even though he looks huge in photos, they still don’t reflect his true size. For example, photography can’t indicate that even after 40 years of dry­ing, the rack still weighs 11 1/2 pounds!

It’s also worth noting that while phe­nomenal mass is what makes the Hole­-In-The-Horn so impressive in the eyes of many experts, it actually contributes little to his final score. I think most whitetail aficionados who’ve seen both heads would concede that the Hole-In-The-­Horn has more antler volume than any other buck in history, including the St. Louis Buck. On the other hand, the St. Louis non-typical has a lot of long points, and he apparently grew several more that broke off before he was found. So, the debate over which of these bucks is big­ger undoubtedly will continue.

However, as of very recently, we’re no longer in the dark as to what caused the unique antler feature that gave the Hole-In­-The-Horn Buck his name. As noted, at the time I conducted my interviews and other research on the story of this buck (1983), about all that was known for

certain was that a railroad man named Charlie Flowers had sold the antlers to the Kent Canadian Club and that taxi­dermist Ben Morgan had mounted the deer. After that story appeared in the

December 1983 issue of North American WHITETAIL, we naturally hoped some­body out there might come forth with new information, but more than a decade passed without that happening.

Then, in 1995, WHITETAIL editor Gordon Whittington received a cryptic note with a Florida postmark. “For infor­mation on the Hole in Horn buck, con­tact me,” it read. “I was present.”

Well aware that all eyewitnesses to the recovery of this deer had supposedly been dead for many years, Gordon was understandably skeptical. But, he dialed the phone number on the card anyway, and in so doing, he took the first step toward solving the greatest mystery in whitetail history.

As it turned out, the person who’d sent the card—a 76-year-old gentleman named George Winters—had indeed seen the Hole-In-The-Horn Buck in the flesh. -What’s more, he’d apparently been the first human to touch that enormous right antler with the strange hole through it. And in so doing, he told Gordon that he’d seen with his own eyes what had caused the hole!

George recounted that back in the early 1940s, when he was in his early 20s, he worked on a maintenance crew inside the arsenal. One bitterly cold morning, he and another guy were riding along a road near the perimeter fence when they saw several railroad workers on the outside of the fence. The men had appar­ently come down from the railroad track, which was roughly 75 yards from the fence.

Eager to see what was going on, George and his companion parked and walked down to the fence. There, they found the railroad workers pulling on the body of a large animal, which was stuck under the barrier. Actually, the carcass was entirely outside of the fence but part of the rack was wedged beneath the wires.

“We didn’t know what it was,” George remembered. “One of the men said, ‘It’s an elk!’ Then, another one said, `No, it’s a moose!’ I’d seen deer before, but really wasn’t sure if this was one or not. The animal had been dead for a week or so, from the looks of it, and he was huge. He looked like he weighed 300 or 400 pounds. He’d obviously been hit by a train.”

One of the railroad men—George never caught his name —announced that he wanted the antlers, and the crew start­ed pulling the giant out from under the fence. But, the animal wouldn’t come free. George noticed that when they pulled on the legs, the fence swayed. The rack itself was stuck.

George got a shovel and began work­ing to free the right antler, which was solidly wedged under the wires. “It had been so cold that the ground was frozen down six or eight inches,” George recalled. “That antler was actually frozen into the ground. The fence was made of chain link, and it had stiff wires sticking down along the bottom of it. When I finally got the rack free, I noticed one of those pieces of wire was sticking down through the antler!

“I guess for years everyone has been wondering what made that hole,” George noted, “but it definitely was caused by that wire.”

This all makes sense to me. There are several scratches around the hole, and its diameter is roughly the same as that of the wire used on chain-link fences. Because this drop tine is rather “porous” out near its tip, I have no trouble believ­ing that a buck thrashing around in pain would be able to poke a stiff wire all the way through it.

So, there you have it—an unexpected eyewitness account of the recovery of what might well be the most legendary whitetail of all. Now, it seems, the book on this giant can be closed once and for all.

CLICK HERE TO SEE ANOTHER HUNTER’S CLAIMS AS TO WHY THERE IS A HOLE

Wild Leeks, also known as Ramps (Allium tricoccum) are a favorite of foragers in the Northeast, and they often make their way into farmer’s market stands throughout the region. Learn how to find, identify and use wild leeks, all while foraging them sustainably.

Ramps are incredibly popular with foragers and home cooks, perhaps because they’re some of the earliest spring greens. Not the earliest by far, as they in close competition with many other spring wild edibles like homemade maple syrup, marsh marigold, Japanese knotweed, dandelions, chickweed, morel mushrooms, and many others.

I imagine part of their appeal is that they’re what’s called a “spring ephemeral” which means they’re a plant that comes up early for a quick 6-8 week burst, and then they die back for the rest of the year. The foraging window is short, which makes them all the more appealing.

Add in the fact that they’ve seen a lot of press in recent years in high-profile places like the new york times, and you have an incredibly popular tiny onion…

Yes, they are more or less tiny woodland onions. Their intense peppery green onion flavor is distinctive and delicious and makes some of the best darn pesto around.

Rams are only available native to the Northeastern US, and growing up in California I’d never heard of them, but a neighbor took me foraging for Ramps shortly after I’d moved to Vermont more than 15 years ago and I’ve been hooked ever since.

You’ll often see bundles of them for sale at farmer’s markets and natural food stores in the spring (late April to Early May), where they’re sold whole (bulb and all). They’re also available online from D’artagnan and from a few shops on Etsy.

These days, with their increase in popularity and slow growth rate, it’s recommended that you only harvest the greens (leaving the bulbs to come back next year).

The leaves are by far the tastiest part, so it’s a better strategy anyway.

What are Ramps?

Ramps (wild leeks) are a slow-growing native wild edible plant that’s found in the northeastern US. They have a unique growth habit, sprouting in the early spring for a quick burst of growth before dying back for the rest of the year.

They’re known as a “spring ephemeral” which means they’re only around for a short time. They grow under mature hardwood forest canopies, and they’ll sprout before the trees have leafed in for the season. During these early few weeks, they’ll soak up as much sunlight as they can before the canopy fills in, leaving them in deep shade.

This short growth window means ramps grow very slowly, and it takes around 7 years for a ramp to reach seed-bearing age. They tend to grow in dense carpets under hardwood trees, slowly expanding the colony each year.

Native Range for Ramps

While ramps are well known throughout the US thanks to positive press, whole foods markets, and fancy food blogs, they are really only grown in the northeast. It is possible to cultivate ramps, provided you have a mature hardwood forest ecosystem with a reasonably cool winter.

(You can buy sustainably harvested ramp seeds here, if you’re interested in starting your own patch.)

That said, their native range is limited to hardwood forests of the northeastern US. They’re also found in some locations in the southern and central US (range map – zoom for detailed view by county).

Identifying Ramps

Wild leek is pretty easy to identify in my opinion. It all starts with seasonality and location. They’re only around for a short window in April and May, and will only be found under hardwood trees.

Ramps can’t compete with other plants in full sunlight, but when hardwoods provide dense shade during most of the growing season, ramps eke out an existence by soaking up all the early spring sunlight before the canopy closes.

Start by looking in hardwood stands in April and May, and they’ll usually grow in dense clusters since little else can live in this dense shade environment.

Ramp plants each have 2-3 leaves with a bright yellow/green color coming out of a red stem. Each plant is small, but it’ll look like a carpet as they grow close in colonies.

The image below shows the base of a wild leek with three leaves, along with the bright red stem leading into the ground. Below ground the perennial bulb is white (but you should leave it there).

If you do try to pull the bulb up by hand, you’ll find it’s almost impossible without a trowel. Ramps are really well-rooted and they don’t give it up easily. The tissues right at the soil level are delicate, and if you touch you can feel the outer layers slip off (like an onion with very thin layers).

Pull a bit harder and the ramp bulb will almost always break off at the soil line (unless you dig it up). That’s part of the plant’s defense mechanism, as they’re predated by deer which could easily pull them up if they didn’t break off with a gentle tug.

That ramp has worked for at least 7 years to make that bulb, so it doesn’t want to give it up easily, to humans or other animal predators.

(I mention this for practicality’s sake since it is honestly an unholy pain to harvest the bulbs, which don’t have nearly as much flavor as the leaves anyway. Stick with the leaves, it’s a more sustainable option, tastes better and it’s a lot less work!)

If the winter was relatively mild, you’ll often find ramp seed heads from the previous year still sticking up on browned stalks. The seeds themselves are shiny, black, and hard in clusters at the top of browned plant material from the previous year.

The seeds can be harvested if you want to start your own ramp patch on wooded land. (They can also be purchased here, harvested sustainably in Vermont.)

The plant’s flower after the leaves have died back, and you’ll see white flowering umbels sticking out of the ground in early summer. They usually set seed by mid to late summer, and you can go back to the ramp patch to harvest seed if you hope to establish a colony elsewhere.

Generally, the seed doesn’t travel far, and each seed head will eventually tip over to land about 8 to 12 inches from the mother plant. That’s one reason for their dense colonies, though they are spread by small mammals too.

The seed is slow to germinate, often taking well over a year, possibly because it’s often held on stiff dead seed stalks for a year or more before it eventually tips over. It’s almost as if they’re sticking out there begging something to come along, scoop up the seed and establish a new patch somewhere else.

Nonetheless, when the seed pods are persistent, it’s an easy way to help identify them. It doesn’t happen every year, and if there’s particularly windy fall weather, intense storms, or just a bad winter they may well all have hit the ground before the next foraging season comes up the following year.

The last identifier is smell…ramps have an intense onion/garlic smell that’s impossible to miss. Gently tear a leaf and it’ll be unmistakable (and your hands will smell like garlic all day).

Ramp Look-Alikes

I’ll put it out there…ramps are pretty easy to identify.

They are a low-growing green plant found under hardwoods with 2-3 bright green leaves, a red stem, and an intense onion-y scent. There’s very little that matches that description, especially in the early spring in the northeast.

That said, every spring plant identification forums are inundated with pictures asking, “Are these ramps!?!?!”

The answer most often is no…because optimistic foragers are really just hoping that anything low growing and green this time of year is actually wild leeks. I’ve seen pictures of hostas…like literally garden hostas in grandma’s flower garden misidentified as ramps (thankfully, hostas are edible too).

There are a number of early spring plants that are toxic though, so you will want to be careful.

There’s a lot of greenery out there in the early spring, more than you’d think looking at lackluster brown lawns in the suburbs that haven’t started re-growing yet. The woods are quicker to rebound, and most of the greenery out there isn’t ramps.

I’d be particularly on the lookout for Lilly of the Valley and False Hellebore, both of which are deadly toxic.

They also look a bit like the Canadian Mayflower, which has edible berries later in the season and is closely related to Solomon’s Plume, and the berries taste much the same. (I have no idea as to the edibility of the leaves in the spring, but it’s a nice thing to come back to later in the season).

Sustainable Ramp Harvesting

Ramps are incredibly well adapted to their growing niche, and they’re still quite common here in Vermont. You’ll see dense patches of them driving around country roads in the spring, especially near sugarbushes.

That’s not the case everywhere though, and in many places they’re over-harvested. They’re actually threatened in Quebec, and their harvest is regulated in some areas.

They’re relatively easy to identify and expensive to buy, so it makes sense to just take to the woods and find your own.

The problem is, you never really know how many other people are foraging a patch (even in the most remote areas). A patch might look huge, but it’s being foraged by dozens of people each year and it’s slowly shrinking given its slow growth rate.

Remember that if you pull up the whole bulb, it’s going to take a seed around 18 to 24 months to germinate and then another 7 years to mature. Pull bulbs every year and you’ll have a problem, especially if many people are harvesting the same patch.

The most sustainable way to harvest ramps is to simply harvest the leaves, and no more than one leaf from each plant. The plants each produce 2-3 leaves a year, so you’ll be able to look as you harvest to make sure there are 1 to 2 leaves remaining so that this slow-growing plant can continue to thrive.

Beyond the pure sustainability angle, there are actually a good number of reasons to harvest just the ramp leaves. The most convincing, in my opinion, is that the leaves are the tasty part.

The bulbs are fine too…but honestly nothing special. They’re more or less like a shallot, mildly onion-y with a bit of crunch. The leaves though, they’re magic. An intense flavor that’s like nothing else, and bright green color to liven up any dish.

For flavor’s sake, harvest just the leaves and then pick up a few shallots at the farmer’s market if you have a dish that calls for cooking with whole ramps.

I’m hoping that a combination of laziness (given that they’re hard to pull), sustainability concerns, and flavor would help convince you to just harvest the leaves. But if you’re still not convinced, there’s one more incredibly good reason to leave the bulbs behind.

Many of the places where ramps grow are pristine wilderness…but some aren’t!

Listening to a podcast interview with Arthur Haines, he explains yet another good reason to exercise enlightened self-interest and leave the bulbs behind:

“Many of the major rivers where wild leeks grow are also home to industrial discharges because there are factories, mills, and other such industries along with them. And many of the things that are produced for these environmental pollutants from the mills turn out to be lipophilic, in other words, they are attracted to fats. And the first place that these environmental pollutants meet up with fats in a plant is in the cell membranes of the roots. There is a lipid by-layer there. And so things like dioxin, and polychlorinated by-phenols, two great examples…they are concentrated in the soils and in the underground storage organs, which includes things like bulbs, corms, roots, and rhizomes of the plants.

Interestingly, things like PCBs are poorly translocated to the aerial portions of the plants. With a couple of exceptions, that means they’re mostly confined to the underground storage organs. Where I’m going with all this, is if you don’t know where those wild leeks were collected, it’s actually a real health insult to you to eat those bulbs because they probably represent the highest level of pollution of that plant.”

Harvesting Ramp Leaves

So even if you don’t buy the sustainability reasons to just harvest the leaves, or quite frankly, just don’t care…there are still really good reasons to stick with leaves.

• Taste better
• Easier to Harvest
• Easier to Clean
• More likely to be Free of Contaminants

Sustainably Harvesting Ramp Bulbs

Does that mean harvesting ramp bulbs is unsustainable? Not necessarily…

Not everything is quite so black and white.

If you’re harvesting a patch on your land that you know for a fact is not harvested by anyone else, and that patch is healthy and thriving, then it’s totally possible to harvest wild leek bulbs sustainably. That’s a lot of ifs…

Even still, given their low reproduction rate, sustainably means harvesting no more than around 5% of the patch on any given year. That may sound like nothing, but ramps patches can be huge.

I know someone whose been farming the same land for 50 years, and it includes a large sugarbush completely covered with wild leeks. He harvests literally hundreds of bundles each spring and sells them at the farmer’s market each year.

The patch has grown over the past 5 decades, and now he’s retiring and turning the farm (and the managed ramp patch) over to his daughter, healthier than when he started.

Just because you see whole ramps at the farmer’s market doesn’t mean they’re necessarily unsustainable, and sometimes it’s best to reserve your judgment. For all you know that vendor has been carefully managing the patch for decades, carefully stewarding it for the next generation.

Ramp Recipes

Ramp leaves have an intense flavor that’s absolutely unforgettable. If you’ve found wild ramps (or just picked them up at the local farmer’s market), you’ll want to make the most of this short-lived wild spring green.

Their spicy green flavor goes well when balanced by fats and rich dishes, and my absolute favorite ways to preserve ramps is by turning them into ramp compound butter and ramp pesto.

Beyond blending the leaves with fats in butter or olive oil-rich pesto, you can honestly use them anywhere you’d use either fresh or cooked green, or anywhere you’d like a garlic-y flavor.

Try any of these tasty ramp recipes:

• Ramp Pasta ~ The Mom 100
• Potato Salad with Ramps and Radishes ~ Relishing It
• Pizza with Ramps & Wild Mushrooms ~ Saveur
• Ramp Lasagna ~ Local Kitchen Blog
• Ramp Jam ~ Saveur
• Bacon and Ramp Viniagrette ~ Saveur
• Ramp and Mushroom Tart ~ Saveur

Ramp Bulb Recipes

If you do happen to have access to sustainably harvested whole ramps, these recipes make use of the whole plant (including the bulb).

• Grilled Ramps ~ Serious Eats
• Ramp Risotto ~ Serious Eats
• Pickled Ramps ~ Practical Self Reliance

Spring Foraging Guides

Ramps are one of the first wild edibles of spring, but they’re not the only tasty thing to find this time of year!

• Spring Foraging: 20+ Wild Edibles to Find in Spring
• 60+ Dandelion Recipes
• Foraging Morel Mushrooms
• Foraging Chickweed
• Foraging Marsh Marigold
• Foraging Plantain Herb
• Foraging Yarrow
• Foraging Nettles
• Foraging Burdock
• Foraging Japanese Knotweed