By: DIY_guy

We all want to use goods quality products on our guns, bows, fishing gear, knives, autos, hunting and lake front gear and like you I?m not a fan of letting things get rust on them nor am I a fan of items wearing out prematurely. To protect my investment in gear, I began searching for rust inhibitors and lubrication solutions to make the maintenance of my gear as effective and efficient as possible but I understand that neglect is the primary cause of corrosion and wear and we must be diligent but having a corrosion inhibitor and lubricants aiding us in meeting those goals is helpful.

The problem is there are so many products on the market all making claims of how well they perform. Who do you trust? What is one to believe? Online searches turned up all manner of comparisons, reviews and evaluations of a couple of products here and a few more there but no large sampling of a really long list of products all compared at the same time. So that?s what I set out to do to determine for myself which product I want to use as a rust inhibitor and lubricant. Along the way I will also look at water displacement (a common claim) as well as reactions with non-metal components. The attributes I set out to evaluate are:

Water displacer:

Many of the products I purchased for this evaluation make claims in regards to being a water displacer or that they have water displacing properties. Its an interesting claim but it got me to wondering why I should care?? I thinks its great if a product displaces water does it adds to a products worth or usefulness?? We all know that moisture is everywhere from fog to rain to snow to humid environments to warm to cold condensation as well as sweat and dew. so perhaps the water displacement claims are meant to drive us to their products with promises of improved protection so I plan to investigate that claim.

Smell/odor:

Because my primary passion is bowhunting followed by gun deer hunting, scent/odor is important to me. If a product stinks to high heaven I am less likely to use it even if it offers other benefits. Gauging odor is pretty subjective since something that smells bad to me might be appealing to the next person. I will evaluate odor as best as I can.

Lubrication:

How well does the product lubricate? And in what state, meaning does it reduce friction better in its wet form or in a dry form after its wiped away/allowed to dry? If it offers the most friction reduction in a wet form but that wet form is a magnet for dust, dirt and carbon, then its counterproductive because that wet lube becomes a gritty sludge. If it can be applied, wiped dry and still reduce friction (while fighting rust) that would be preferred. I will investigate lubrication.

Compatibility:

How safe is it for plastics, rubber and gun finishes and coatings?

That a fair question since these products are expected to be applied to guns, bows, knives, fishing gear, etc that are composed of a variety of non-metallic materials and finishes/coatings. A product that displaces water and inhibits rust is great but if it melts your plastic and rubber and destroys the finish on your gun, its destined for the trash can. I plan to investigate compatibility as well.

Corrosion inhibition:

That?s the primary reason for this evaluation. I plan to investigate these products compared to one another for their ability to delay the formation of corrosion.

The goal here is to find a product that does the best job at inhibiting corrosion, reducing friction, does not harm plastic, rubber or finishes, displaces waters and does not force me to wear a gas mask to apply. A product that can do all of the above may not exist but I?m willing to find out.

The next question was “Which products?” Until now, my stable of gun/bow/tool care products was pretty small. Like most sportsmen I had my “go-to” products because that is what my local retailer carried. I hadn’t thought much beyond availability and then fell into a comfort zone with those products. I took to the web and did a search as well as asking for suggestions on a couple of web forums and learned many of these products have passionate followers even if I had never heard of them. Was I missing out on a superior product????

The next step in the process was to take out a 2nd mortgage and buy up as many products as I could get my hands on and then wait for the brown truck to become a daily fixture in my driveway. The products I will be evaluating (in no particular order) are

Here is the entire ensemble of products I used ?in this evaluation.

Here are the products marketed and sold for gun care/maintenance.

You probably recognize many of the products in the lineup. Most are dedicated products marketed to the sportsman for this purpose but some are products that over the years have been used by sportsmen that are not necessarily marketed for this purpose. One such example is simple paste wax and Kroil which were recommended to me by people living in coastal environments. Another is WD 40 and 3 in one oil which have been used by everyone that owns metal since the 1940’s. These are not marketed as a gun care products but since they are used by so many in that regard, they were thrown into this evaluation for comparison sake. All products were purchased from either local retailers, online or at gun shows with the exception of the Pennzoil motor oil. I secured that from the local speedy oil change location and only a small amount for this evaluation.

First up is an evaluation of Smell/odor:

Because my primary passion is bowhunting followed by gun deer hunting, scent/odor is important to me. If a product stinks to high heaven I am less likely to use it even if it offers other benefits. Gauging odor is pretty subjective since something that smells bad to me might be appealing to the next person. I will evaluate odor as best as I can.

While this evaluation might seem firearms-centric I?m hoping to come away with products that I will also use during bowhunting trips on things like my bow, broadheads, knives, pruning saws, treestands, climbing sticks, camera arms and other items I take afield as well as my firearms and hunting gear that I want to protect from corrosion. For that reason, odor/scent is something I pay close attention to. Some of these products have an odor that is present straight from the container that dissipates quickly after drying while some products continue to smell long after application. A strong odor even if its pleasant is still a strong odor and something I hope to avoid in the products I use.

I created the following ranking for odor.

No odor

Mild odor

Strong odor

And then any notes about the particular odor. I wrote down the first thing that popped into my head after taking a wiff of each product. See the data below.

**NOTE**This exercise may not account for much once you factor in the dissipation factor once dry and the scant amount left after wiping off the excess product but since I had to use each product I noted the smells and recorded them.

Next up in this evaluation is the water displacement claim. In regards to water displacement, the implied message is that the product, if applied to a wet gun/bow/tool will drive out (displace) the moisture and then protect the metal from moisture and corrosion. This is a pretty easy claim to prove or disprove since the very definition of displacement occurs when an object that is introduced to water, pushes the water out of the way and takes its place (displacing the water). If a product simply floats on top of water, it does not ?displace? it.

If the product doesn?t break the surface tension of water, penetrate and displace the water to reach metal parts, then for the purposes of this evaluation It won?t be counted as a water displacer. In contrast, those products that break the surface tension of water, displace the water and penetrate it will be counted as water displacers. This will be done with the raw product directly from their container and NOT the dried or cured product after the propellant, carriers or distillates evaporate or dissolves.

The process of evaluating water displacement is as follows.

1. A container is partially filled with water

2. Raw product (from its original container) is introduced to the water filled container.

3. The product is observed and noted as to whether it displaced (penetrated, broke the surface tension) of the water or whether it simply rested on top of the water.

It should be noted that the ability of a product to displace water does not automatically imply that it will inhibit rust or provide lubrication. A rock or brick (if placed in a container of water) will displace water but will offer no corrosion protection or lubrication. Simply because a product can actually displace water does not automatically translate into corrosion inhibiting or lubrication properties.

Rust inhibiting and lubrication will be evaluated separately but so many of the products made a point of claiming water displacing properties that I thought it worth evaluating. In the grand scheme I dont know if water displacing is going to amount to a hill of beans since lubrication and corrosion fighting can take place even if the product does not displace water but so many of the products made the displacement claim that I opted to evaluate it.

Results: The vast majority of the products evaluated DID NOT displace water. 3 in one oil is a good example. It was in no way a water displacing agent but to its credit, it does not claim to be.

Rather than listing each product and whether or not it displaced water, Here are the only 3 that DID displace water as well as a look at 3 in one oil as a comparison. The water displacing products are:

The picture above can be a bit deceiving. The 3 water displacers look as if a thin film of product is floating on the water. That is not the case. What you are seeing is the surface tension of the water acting like a mirror. You can tell by looking closely to see the reflection of the top of metal hex nut that looks to be floating on that thin film. There was no floating compound on the surface of any of the 3 products. I then rolled and tilted and shook the bottle to see if the compound clung to the metal surface and kept water off the metal part. In all cases, the metal part was coated in the compound and resisted water clinging to the metal. After this agitation I allowed the bottles to rest for an hour to see if the compound separated or changed in any way after being exposed to the water. No change was noted. I did however observe some changes to the plastic bottle that held the Strike hold product. Notice the impact Strike Hold had on the plastic bottle. That leads me to the next area of interest.

Compatability:

Next up is evaluating compatibility with non-metal compounds. This is a tough claim to challenge since there are more plastic and rubber compounds and types of finishes than anybody could possibly check. Some products clearly stated they are not safe for rubber or plastic or finishes and cautioned the user to first test on a discrete location. Other products stated they are safe for (or outright encouraged use) on finishes, leather, wood, etc while still others made no warning nor statement in this regard. A simple check for reaction is to place a small amount of each product on polystyrene (Styrofoam) and observe the reaction. We know what Gas and Acetone do to Styrofoam and we wouldn?t use those harsh products on our gun finish or plastics or rubber so I will use that as a base for this evaluation. Compounds known to destroy polystyrene are Gasoline, Benzene, Toluene, Acetone, Xylene. There are other agents harmful to polystyrene but you get the point. Since its not practical to do a compatibility evaluation with every known type of plastic and every type of gun finish and paint, I only tested polystyrene and took the warnings about compatibility from the product labels.

The majority of the products did not harm nor soften polystyrene. Here is the sheet I used for the evaluation.

Here is an easier to read image of the products in this evaluation that dissolved polystyrene. It should be noted that all 3 water displacers were harmful to the evaluation sheet of polystyrene yet 6 other products that were not water displacers were also harmful to the sheet.

lubrication:

The reduction of friction/heat in moving metal parts is what I evaluated next. Many of the products make claims in regards to lubrication meaning a reduction in friction/heat/wear. (some make fantastic claims) To evaluate lubrication claims I will evaluate static friction forces. If you slept through your science/physics classes, Static Friction is the force that resists the movement of two objects against one another when the objects are initially at rest. To evaluate the lubrication claims I made a simple device to evaluate static friction forces. Two polished steel surfaces are used to mimic firearms parts. Its size and length of travel was meant to mimic the travel of the action of your typical firearm. A force is applied to cause the weighted steel sled to begin moving on a steel track. Increasing amounts of water are added to a container that is tethered to the weighted sled until the weight is great enough to overcome friction and move the sled. The weight of that water will be recorded to establish a factor compared to dry steel against dry steel.

To establish a baseline value for two dry steel surfaces, the exercise was repeated 8 times and then an average was established. Each product will be evaluated by applying the product to both surfaces and recording the amount of weight (force) required to get the weighted sled to move and then repeating the exercise 8 times to arrive at an average force.

Here are a few photos of the device used to capture static friction forces.

Here is a brief video of the device in action. (note that in an effort to make the video as short as possible I poured the water faster then I will during the actual evaluation)

How much lube to use:

We have all been instructed to apply lubrication liberally and to wipe off any excess. This seems counter intuitive if you consider something like packing a wheel bearing or using a grease zerk where metal parts are suspended in a bath of lubricant. Gun parts, folding knives, fishing reels and tools however are tightly toleranced with almost no room for large volumes of lubricant but aside from space constraints, excess lubricants cause an increase in effort required to get parts moving. I?m not versed in fluid dynamics but I quickly learned what happens when too much lubricant is applied. Being curious about what I observed I took to the web to review terms such as ?Cohesion?, “Adhesion”, ?Fluid tackiness?, “Viscosity” and “Fluid shear” which explained what I was observing.

Excess lubricant acted like a glue that slowed or resisted parts from movement because of the surface tension and viscosity of the excess lube. As I removed more and more of the excess, I observed that less force was required to overcome static friction. In almost every case I found that removing all visible lubricant resulted in the lowest levels of friction between the two polished steel plates. What we have been told is correct, apply liberally to coat and then remove all excess to the point where you think you have removed too much and you will enjoy the least amount of friction. The side benefit to that dry level of lubrication is that it will not attract foreign contaminants that could get trapped in excess/wet lubricant.

To ensure there is no cross contamination of products on the sled/track device, after each product is evaluated, the sled and track are cleaned with acetone and paper towels until the dry to dry friction values were restored. Several dry runs are performed before the next product was evaluated.

NOTE** I recognize this evaluation may have deficiencies. My lubrication evaluation was conducted at 70 degrees F so it is unknown if the results would be the same if evaluated at 0 or 120 degrees F. Also I am not evaluating longevity. I cycled each product 8 times to arrive at an average force and understand that a product that performed well during 8 cycles may fail long term where a product that performed slightly worse may in fact have better long term lubrication. With that said, equity was my first priority. Every product and action was conducted the same way to ensure each product was getting a fair evaluation.

I recorded the results of the force required to move the sled and used a spreadsheet to tabulate the results for this chart.

To ensure that I was getting credible data and to increase my confidence level, I conducted the lubrication evaluation a 2nd time because as you can see, one product (Frog Lube) in the first evaluation reduced friction so much that I could no add water to the container. Simply hanging the empty container on the device caused the sled to move. For the 2nd evaluation I added weight to the sled and raised the end of the track to create a 10 degree upward slope meaning the sled would have to slide up-hill with the added weight. The results changed but not by much. The top 10 performers remained the top 10 and the bottom 10 remained the bottom 10. The products did jockey each other for position within their respective groups. Here is a chart showing the results from the 2nd evaluation for friction. To make it a little easier to read I am showing only the top 10 performers and the bottom 10 performers in their new rankings.

Corrosion protection:

Lastly I evaluated corrosion protection and inhibiting. It?s a common claim made by the products in this evaluation so I want to evaluate that as well. Some of the products state that they meet or exceed this test and spec or that test and certification (the most common being ASTM B117 and ISO 9227 salt fog chamber corrosion test and a variety of mil specs. ) All of those tests are very good and harsh controlled environment tests but where I found them lacking was:

1. No UV component. All the tools and gear I use spend a lot of time outside and UV rays break down even the best of products . Those UV effects are not mimicked in a sealed fog chamber in a lab.

2. Constant temps. Our gear is expected to perform in subzero to super-hot temps and sometimes those fluctuations may happen all in the same day or week. A fixed 95 degree F test is certainly equitable to all the samples but not a true environmental test with real world applications for a guy that hunts in freezing temps and then brings his gun into the cabin where it sets near the wood stove to dry out and then is returned to sub-freezing temps the next day.

3. Proximity and cross contamination. Since it?s just not cost effective to test each metal plate all by itself in a fog chamber, many samples are ganged together in a small test chamber. Being that the test chamber is only so big, they are positioned very near one another and samples are misted with the same recycled salt water carrying the corrosion from products failing the test (and the products being tested) onto samples adjacent to other parts. I hope to avoid that.

4. No real life dirt or debris. The wind carries all manner of debris on it that rests on metal parts (some more than others) An outdoor evaluation more closely simulates real ?in the field? situations.

For these reasons (and because I plan to sample far more products than has perhaps been done at the same time during any other evaluation conducted) and because I want to increase my confidence level in the results I get, I conducted 3 evaluations. Many of the home spun evaluations I have seen online ran only a single sample set implying the results would be the same if repeated. I ran 3 separate evaluations under a variety of conditions. A portion of this evaluation took place outdoors in direct sunlight with the fluctuations of night and daytime temps as well as UV exposure and wind, airborne debris and rain. Rain or not I planned to mist one group of the sample plates with a salt / water solution in the ratio of 1 tsp non-iodized salt per cup of tap water (and I have hard water with mineral deposits). This will be the most harsh environment meant to expedite the formation of corrosion.

All the sample plates were given a 320 grit (two direction) brushed finish to remove any rust inhibitors the steel maker placed on the steel so they don?t rust in the store. Then the plates were chemically cleaned with acetone prior to applying the product. Each product in the evaluation was applied to the metal per the product instructions on the label. Nearly all products labels direct the user to apply liberally and then wipe off excess product. I followed those instructions as I don?t care for a sloppy, wet gun where excess product is dripping or rubbing off, onto my clothing, gear or car. I left an amount of product on the metal just as I would when I store my firearms. The plates were attached to a suitable (non-metallic) holder at a roughly 15 degree angle from vertical. I didn?t want them lying flat so water would pool on them and I didn?t want them standing perfectly upright either as they would shed water and debris too easily.

All the metal samples were sheared out of the same sheets of cold rolled steel sourced at my local hardware store. Several of these sheets were purchased for this evaluation.

Here is sample board #1 after all the products had been applied to the sample plates. This sample board then sat in my shop for 5 hours to allow the products to fully dry or cure or evaporate or set a film before the board was exposed to the elements.

Here is a short video of all the samples on board #1.

Then the samples were misted with the salted water. Here is a closer view of the plates after the misting. Notice the different reactions with water. Most plates beaded the water.

Not all products beaded water. I don?t know the significance of this but observed and recorded it anyway. The products that did not bead water can be seen below.

After 2 hours I observed the samples. The controls were already exhibiting signs of corrosion. White spots are the result of the salt left behind after the water evaporated and does not indicate rust, just dried salt.

The plates spent the night outside and it was quite a night. Temps in the upper 30’s, a storm rolled through with wind gusts to 30 MPH and on and off rain. 24 hours after each product was applied to the plates they were observed for signs of corrosion.

**NOTE** Before I go further I will state that during the process of applying the products to the plates, I had to hold the plates by the very edges. The last contact with the plates was along the very top edge as I pushed the sample into the foam board. Some samples took considerable force to place them in the foam. For this reason I will not count against the products that are essentially corrosion free but exhibit corrosion along the edges where otherwise the bulk of the surface is corrosion free. The edge rusting is a result of my handling the samples and removing the product.

Here is sample board #1 after 24 hours

Some of the corroded samples. (some with only light corrosion and others with significant corrosion)

Here is a video of sample board #1 after 24 hours. It?s still quite windy as you will be able to hear in the video. Pause and restart as required to get a better look at samples of interest to you.

I recorded the samples with mild rusting and major rusting after 24 hours. The samples exhibiting mild rusting were

Rand CLPBallistolBreakfree CLPHoppe’s MDLRusteprufeBoeshield T-9Rem Oil w/ moisture guardATF

The samples exhibiting significant rusting were

KroilPB-50Rem Oil (regular)GunzillaSuper LubeMilitec-1Hoppe?s EliteAce Silicone GreaseAtsko Silicone SprayPennzoil3 in One oilRIG #2GibbsPaste waxBoth Controls

After 24 hours of exposure, 22 of the 46 products (48%) have already begun to show signs of corrosion but remember, the samples were misted with a salt water solution to speed up the process. The 2nd and 3rd group of plates will NOT have a salted water application.

After 48 hours of Board #1 being placed outside, here is a list of the products on board #1 that are still preventing corrosion.

CRC 3-36

M-Pro 7 LPX

Fluid Flim

Archoil AR4400

Quicken HP

Clenzoil

Barricade

Corrosion X

Frog Lube

Eezox

Hoppe?s gun oil

One Shot

WD-40 Specialist

Gun Seal

Rust Prevent

After 72 hours (and lots of wind and rain), the un-corroded sample plates on board #1 are

After 96 hours (and a mostly rain free day) here are the remaining plates from board #1 still protecting from corrosion.

After 120 hours with a day of light rain, the remaining samples have dwindled to just 3.

Another day of on and off rains and the final three are still holing on.

A rare sunny and windy day. 168 hours (7 days) have elapsed since I placed Board #1 outside. No change from the day before.

At this point I will close out the evaluation of board #1 (but continue to monitor) Here is a picture of the entire board.

Here is a video so you can get a better look at each sample. Start and stop the video as you see fit. Despite the constant rains and clouds, the UV rays have taken their toll on the sharpie marker used to denote each brand.

The second group of plates was also evaluated outdoors and started the day after board #1. The metal samples were treated with product and then sat in my shop for 12 hours to dry, cure, evaporate, film-over before the board was placed outside. Here is sample board #2

Here is a short video close up of all the samples on board #2. Even though I crossed off Frog Lube a couple days ago because of the formation of corrosion you will see its still doing a pretty good job of protecting the plate.

The plan was to mist them with clean water but with all the rain that was not required. The duration of the evaluation was a mix of sunny and bright and heavy rains but very windy exposing the samples to UV, wind, rain, dust and all the other elements we encounter when using our firearms, bows, knives, tools, etc. It was a time to conduct such an experiment.

I?m sure everybody living in my area of the state hated this wet stormy spring weather except me. I couldn?t have picked a better set of days to do this evaluation. Upper 30?s to low 40?s, high winds, on and off showers and breaks of sunlight and cold rainy nights. Its like living in a corrosion test chamber.

Most evaluations of this nature run a single set of samples and call it good enough. I?m running 3 sample boards and already I am seeing differences in results from board #1 to board #2 so I think it was a wise move to run multiple samples. Recall that board #1 was misted with a salted water solution to expedite corrosion. Sample board #2 has only seen exposure to rain water but the results after 24 hours are showing sample board #2 is has more product failures than board #1 in its first 24 hours (something I did not expect to see). When I observed sample board #1 after 24 hours, a total of 23 samples exhibited signs of corrosion. Sample board #2 has been outside for 24 hours and already 34 of the 46 products are exhibiting signs of corrosion (74% of the products are failing)

Oddly, the controls on board #2 (which are treated with nothing) are faring better than some of the plates that are protected by product (opposite of what was observed on board #1)

Here is a photo of sample board #2 after the first 24 hours.

It?s a shorter list to name the products that are still providing resistance to corrosion on Sample board #2. They are.

Gun Seal

WD-40 Specialist

Hoppe?s gun oil

Boeshield T-9

Frog Lube

Rust prevent

Tuf-Glide

Rem Oil with moisture Guard

Weapons Shield

Hornady One Shot

Militec-1

Rand CLP

Here is a video of board #2 so you can see which products are failing in the first 24 hours. (don?t confuse debris with rust. The video may make it look like some plates are corroding when they are actually use dirty from all the wind blown debris and rain)

After 48 hours, the un-corroded samples from board #2 are shown below (I contend that the Hornady ?s One Shot, edge corrosion shown below is edge contamination on my part as described earlier. I can?t otherwise explain why the majority of the plate is corrosion free expect a strip along the left edge except that I failed to apply the product to that portion of the plate.)

Its clear that if I had only used a single sample board, I would have arrived are incorrect conclusions about some of these products. Multiple boards that show products preventing corrosion on those boards increases the confidence level in the evaluation.

With a break in the rains here are the remains of Board #2

More rain and the list is growing shorter.

After 120 hrs, Board #2 is down to the final 3.

144 hours and no change from the day before. Based on board #1 and no change in board #2 I am ending the evaluation of board #2

Here is a picture of Board #2

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c2…ps567f25ba.jpg

Here is a video of Board #2 so you can get a close up view of each product. Pause and restart as you see fit.

By now you may have noticed some commonality in the remaining samples of board #2 and board #1. Results would indicate that

Hoarnady’s One shot

WD 40 Specialist

And perhaps Frog Lube

Have shown they outperform the others with Rust Prevent also doing a heck of a job. Running multiple boards has increased my confidence level in the results observed. But there is a third corrosion evaluation (the indoor one) that started the same day and Board #2. I will remind you that Board #1 and #2 were extreme conditions (abuse) simply to expedite the formation of corrosion under salted water and rain water conditions (as well as fog, cold temps, temp fluctuations, lots of wind and some UV rays thrown in for good measure). It?s doubtful any gun, bow, knife or tool owner is going to subject his gear to this in real life but that is the nature of such an evaluation. By design it was meant to be tough. Board 3 will more closely mimic conditions seen while storing our gear.

The third and final Board will be a combination evaluation. One portion will focus on the fingerprint issue on firearms and the other portion of the evaluation deals with longevity. This evaluation will be conducted indoors with no application of water to speed up corrosion.

Here is sample board #3 with all the plates coated in their respective products. Sample Board #3 sat in my shop for 4 hours to allow all the products to dry or cure or evaporate or skim over (some products make claims in this regard) then each was given a fingerprint on the metal. We all have different oils and acids and salts in our fingerprints so not every fingerprint will cause the same level of corrosion. I don?t have 48 fingers and washing after each sample to prevent cross contamination would only remove the salts and oils from my finger so I had to outsource the fingerprint job to a friend (we will call him “Frank” or “Oscar”) because I will substitute a hotdog for a finger.

Like me the hotdog is made mostly of meat (with some fillers) water, salt and fat (in my case perhaps too much fat) to prevent cross contamination, a fresh slice was made off the end of the sacrificial wiener to provide an equitable fingerprint on each sample plate. A nice greasy and salty fingerprint was placed in the lower left hand corner of each sample.

Sample board #3 will spend its time in my dinning room and be observed for signs of corrosion.(Until my wife gets sick of it and makes me move out into my shop)

Board #3 will be observed and photographed and at the point plates begin to fail (determined as rust appearing on the surface) they will be tallied until all the samples have failed and I expect at some point all will eventually fail. It may take weeks or months (perhaps years) for that to happen to sample board #3. As of this writting its been 9 days with no signs of corrosion on any plates.

As for me, Here is what I took away from this (even though Board #3 is still being observed)

With this evaluation behind me, I an unlikley to condsider the WD 40 specialist as a gun care product because it wasnt marketed as a cleaner (not meant to be a cleaner so I cant knock for that) and it didnt rank terribly high for lubrication but I will be using it for many other outdoor applications and tools where I want to delay corrosion. The column of my drill press, the top of my table saw, my lathe, saw blades, hand tools and lots of other tools will benefit from its ability to protect from rust.

Frog lube impressed in both lubrication and corrosion inhibition but I wonder how good a cleaner it is? The mfgr website touts it as a cleaner but I am uncertain. (only speculation on my part)

Hornady’s One Shot strikes me as more of a cleaner than Frog Lube and WD 40 specialist (speculation on my part) and it certainly performed well as a lube and corrosion inhibitor.

Final thoughts

1. There are two enemies to our guns. Neglect and liberal Democrats who dislike the 2nd amendment. Do everything in your power to make sure neither are allowed to make any advances on your weapons.

2. Use these products in a well-ventilated area and wear gloves. Health is your first wealth. Protect it like you do your gear.

3. Water displacing claims don?t mean much. None of the 3 water displacers performed well in the corrosion or lubrication evaluation.

4. Don?t over lube. Its far worse than under lubing. Wipe off the lube to the point you think you may have taken off too much and you should be just about right.

5. Not all gun care products are created equal. Choose wisely. Knowledge is power. I have a little more thanks to this evaluation.

6. If you have had a preferred gun care product that has served you well for many years, there is no need to change even if your product did not fare well in this evaluation. If your outdoor gear functions well and is corrosion free and you are happy with the product and like the smell, why fix what isn?t broken. See note 1.

7. This WAS NOT an evaluation of all the gun care products on the market. It was only an evaluation of the 46 products I assembled for this evaluation. If your favorite product was not included in this evaluation, all anybody can do is speculate as to how it WOULD have performed. While seaking suggestions for which products to include in this evaluation, The recommendations I received came with comments about how I needn’t to look any further than their preferred brand as it is the best of the best. In spite of asking for suggestions on multiple forums, nobody recommended Hornady One shot. I found it via a web search at Midway’s web site. Frog lube was suggested by many. If there is a better product out there, I will no doubt hear about soon by those lamenting the fact it wasn’t included in this evaluation.

8. Since I now have more product than any person should own, I may entertain conducting another evaluation with additional products to see how they stack up against the top 5 from this evaluation. I’ve set aside the friction test bed (after coating it with WD 40 specialist to prevent rust) just in case I get the urge.

Edited May 6 9. I am In no way affiliated with or in any way attached to any of the products or companies of the products I evaluated. I am in no way compensated by any product brand name or manufacturer as a result of this evaluation. No company asked me to conduct this evaluation. All products were purchased by me and none were sent or gifted to me for this evaluation.

Upon completion of this evaluation I sent emails to several of the manufacturers of the products used. Thus far (4 days after sending the emails) I have received only one reply and it came from the founders of Frog Lube. Here is that reply.

?Ron,

We are stunned by the exhaustive and comprehensive approach of your testing. And we are quite flattered at the result. You have done something no one else has done.

We do our testing in primarily in operating firearms, but we have done some technical tests such as the corrosion and lubricity testing and have seen the same results.

May we use this link to share with our customers on line and in our facebook page? We have lots of fans (and a few competitors) who would appreciate seeing this.

Also, we very much appreciate your ‘objectivity’ and your public claims. This strengthens the validity of your results.

Thanks again for sharing this profound work with us.

Larry Lasky & Stacy LaskyFrogLube Founders ?

—-

I replied to them with the following:

?Feel free to share or distribute the info as you see fit. Prior to this evaluation I had never used Frog Lube (or many of the products I evaluated) so I was curious and ended up doing this evaluation. My search for lube and corrosion solution was not entirely firearms centric as I am more of an archer and bowhunter so I would like to make this request. Archery and Bowhunting are very large markets with direct overlap to firearms owners. The same holds true for the rapidly increasing crossbow and crossbowhunting market. All of these user groups require lubrication and corrosion solutions.

The main difference for the bowhunting and crossbow hunting market is the scent/smell of products we use due to how close bowhunters and perhaps crossbow hunters have to get to prey to make a successful shot. The minty smell of Frog Lube may keep this user group from using your product. Would it be possible to remove the minty scent and create a scent free version? Breaking into the archery/bowhunting and crossbow hunting market would create another demographic purchasing your product. Please consider it. You would certainly have me as a customer for more than just firearms usage.

Ron?

Its been 288 hours (12 days) since Board #1 was placed outside and 264 hours (11 days) for Board #2 so I thought I would update. There has been some rain this week but lots of sun and wind and the trees are spreading all manner of pollen and debris in the air. The Sun?s UV rays have all but made the sharpie marker unreadable but I have a map and can still make it out enough to see.

Here are the two boards where they are residing on the patio.

And here are the close-ups of the samples.

As for Board #3 in my house. Its been 240 hours (10 days) and as expected, the indoor protection in a constant environment has them all still in fine shape.

?

We have been experiencing torrential rains and flash flooding. When it isn?t raining its very humid. Its certainly been a wet spring. The UV rays have now completely erased the sharpie marker labels on the boards but I know which is which from prior photos. Here is a picture of the two boards with board #1 at 15 days (360 hours) and board #2 at 14 days (336 hours). The top 3 performing products are continuing to protect the steel plates.

Its been 20 days since I started board #3 which is the indoor board with the (hotdog) fingerprint.

The first (and only) sample so far to exhibit corrosion has appeared. The rust is only in the fingerprint area. The sample plate is the one coated with Eezox.

Update on the two outdoors corrosion boards. Hornady One shot has finally failed on Board #2 Leaving Frog Lube and WD 40 Specialist but the Hornady product is still going strong on board #1.

The porcupine is willing and able to defend itself against attack, but really just wants to be left alone to live its mostly solitary life.

After his horse tangled with a porcupine and ended up with an ankle full of quills, a friend grumbled, “Porcupines, what good are they?” This is the same question another friend asked years ago when he chided me for “wasting a column writing about porcupines”.

It isn’t an unusual question. Humans tend to judge the value of just about everything by how they are personally benefited or vexed by it. That seems to be particularly true of wildlife. If a personal or even general benefit isn’t obvious, then clearly we don’t need that species.

A porcupine is a mild mannered creature wanting nothing more than to go about its business and be left alone. When a dog, horse or human can’t abide the live-and-let-live attitude of the porcupine, it can and will defend itself. And for some reason, humans are offended by that.

Here is a small animal, weighing less than 20 pounds, and we won’t tolerate an act of self defense? Perhaps it rocks our world a bit much. As the self-proclaimed rulers of this world is it an attack on our sovereignty to have an animal, especially a small non aggressive one, be able to put us in our place?

A complaint about porcupines is that they damage trees. Absolutely true. However, that viewpoint is literally missing the forest for the trees. Porcupines evolved with the forests and are part of a system of forest replenishment. Trees damaged by porcupines provide critical habitat for dozens of other species. These trees then become part of the nutrient cycling essential to forest health. Chewing on trees only becomes a “problem” when that tree happens to be in a human’s backyard or is part of a commercial plantation.

In a greater context, our ancestors probably had greater respect for the lowly porcupine as they were once a staple of many human diets. Today, few humans eat them but they remain an important part of mountain lion fare. Sure, they may only make up a few percent of the average lion’s chow and if a lion went hungry rather than feast on porcupine, it might be character building. But having porcupines available when other food is scarce or difficult to catch may also mean the difference between life and death for a lion, a species humans seem to value.

Aesthetically, porcupines are just as fun to watch as other wildlife. They may not be as flamboyant as an elk, as personable as an otter or as cute as a marten, but fun just the same. And I actually like knowing that I approach a porcupine at my own peril. There is sport in that.

Regardless of these clear values, porcupines are part of the system and as such are worthwhile. What watch repairman or auto mechanic would discard a part just because he doesn’t understand its function? As Aldo Leopold said, “It is the first rule of intelligent tinkering to save all the parts.”

We shouldn’t have to understand porcupines to appreciate them.

Wildlife License Plates

Idaho Wildlife license plates provide essential funding that benefits the great diversity of native plants and wildlife that are not hunted, fished or trapped—over 10,000 species or 98% of Idaho’s species diversity. Game species that share the same habitats (such as elk, deer, antelope, sage-grouse, salmon, trout) also benefit from these specialty plates.

No state tax dollars are provided for wildlife diversity, conservation education and recreation programs. Neither are any revenues from the sale of hunting or fishing licenses spent on nongame species. Instead, these species depend on direct donations, federal grants, fundraising initiatives—and the Idaho Wildlife license plates.

Both my vehicles have Bluebird Plates. I prefer the bluebird because the nongame program gets 70 percent of the money from bluebird plates, but only 60 percent of the money from elk and trout plates – 10 percent of the money from elk plates supports wildlife disease monitoring and testing programs (to benefit the livestock industry) and 10 percent from cutthroat plates supports non-motorized boat access.

Incidentally, in 2014, the Idaho Legislature denied the Department of Fish and Game the ability to add new plates or even to change the name of the elk and cutthroat plates (very specific) to wildlife and fish plates, a move that would have allowed for changing images occasionally and generating more revenue. It would seem that they believe that we Idahoans don’t want a well funded wildlife program. Go figure.

Dehydrating morel mushrooms is a common practice among individuals who harvest a large amount during mushroom season (lucky you!)

The dehydration process is the number one method that allows you to savor the taste of these even during the off-season, as they do not freeze well (though it is possible).

Some say the best location to hunt for morels is in the Midwest, but you can find them all over the US, Europe, and beyond. This area seems to have the best vegetation and temperature to grow these tasty morsels. Look for them sprouting from mid-April to mid-June.

They usually appear after a series of spring showers, prior to the heat of summer setting in. Morels often reappear in the same spot year after year, and many hunters keep their “spots” a well guarded secret.

These fungi (yes – they are fungi) seem to prefer hillsides with plenty of rotting logs, but they may appear in unexpected spots as well. You may not find them where you’d expect – this is one reason why this variety isn’t commercially farmed.

Three basic processes exist for dehydrating morels. The first involves the use of a dehydrator. Here’s what you need to do:

1. First, wash the specimens in cool water to remove any debris.

2. Pat dry with a paper towel. Trim the stems if necessary.

3. Slice them in half, from the tip through the base of the stem.

4. Place in a single layer on each level of the dehydrator. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for proper drying times, or check out our ultimate guide to food dehydration – it has a bunch of helpful drying times listed at the bottom.

For those individuals without a dehydrator, you can also use your oven to prepare the mushrooms.

1. Wash, dry, and cut the same way as previously outlined.

2. Cover the bottom of a cookie sheet with parchment paper. Lay out sliced mushrooms in a single layer. It is alright to have the sides touching, but they should not overlap.

3. Bake at 250°F for approximately 6 hours. During the baking process, crack open the oven door a slight amount. This allows the moisture to escape during the drying process.

Finally, the oldest known way to dry morels is to string them up and dry them in the sun.

1. Wash and prepare the individual pieces as before.

2. Cut a piece of cotton packaging string (kitchen string) that’s approximately six feet long. Thread a large-eyed needle, and insert through the center of a morel slice. Slide the mushroom along the cotton string until it’s within 12 inches of the opposite end.

3. Repeat the process with the remaining pieces, making sure they do not touch one another.

4. Hang the string in a sunny location. If you hang the string outside, be sure to bring it in at night to prevent dew from setting on it, which could introduce mold. Allow to dry in the sun for a minimum of two days.

The trick to drying morels is to make sure they are completely dry. Here’s how to test the mushrooms periodically during the drying process:

Break a small portion from the main body. It should snap when broken. If it is mushy or spongy, then moisture still exists within the cap.

Place the dehydrated specimens in a glass jar with a lid or in a resealable plastic bag. These will keep for up to six months if prepared correctly. You can further extend this by using vacuum sealing, placing them in the freezer after they’re dried (though this isn’t always recommended, as it can introduce moisture) or adding some oxygen absorbers to the sealed packaging.

Dehydrated morel mushrooms may be reconstituted by soaking them in enough cool, salted water to cover for 30 minutes, or by boiling them for 10 minutes at a low boil.

Be sure to reserve this water for cooking, as it is full of antioxidants. It makes a great addition to soups and sauces. Just let the sediment settle before adding the liquid on top to dishes.

And if you need a bit more info on the prep process, read our article on how to properly clean your mushrooms.

What’s your favorite way to dry the season’s bounty? Let us know in the comments!

Whether you’re narrowing the gap between food and your table, connecting more deeply to nature through conservation, or extending your hunting seasons with archery gear, you’ll never run short of great reasons to try bowhunting.

Gearing up to bowhunt is exciting, and it’s much simpler than most people realize. To help you better understand what you need for your first bowhunt, let’s review 10 basic bowhunting tools.

1. Compound Bow

Obviously, a bow of some sort is your most basic need. You have three bow types to choose from, starting with the compound bow. These bows are nearly standard issue for bowhunting today. They’re easier to shoot than traditional recurves or longbows, but require more practice than crossbows to become proficient. Modern compound bows are efficient and don’t require extraordinary strength to draw and shoot.

When selecting a bow, it’s best to seek help from an expert at an archery shop. Hunting bows are not “one size fits all.” Make sure you choose a bow that matches your fit and bowhunting needs. You must become as accurate as possible to enjoy shooting and be lethal in the woods.

2. Traditional Bow

Traditional recurves or longbows are bowhunting’s simplest weapons. These bows have been used thousands of years, and are more effective today than when our ancestors carried them for hunting and self-protection. Shooting and harvesting game animals with these basic bows is also challenging and rewarding.

Drawing a traditional bow that’s powerful enough to take game animals like deer, elk or bears requires more strength than drawing a compound bow. However, their simplicity makes them the most affordable option for prospective bowhunters with tight budgets.

3. Crossbow

Until recently crossbow hunting was mostly reserved for senior citizens, or people with injuries or disabilities. Today, most states and Canadian providences allow crossbows during part or all of the regular archery season. Crossbows reduce the learning curve needed to shoot arrows proficiently. Most crossbow archers prefer aiming with a scope like those used on hunting rifles. This makes crossbows fairly easy to shoot accurately, even for those with little or no experience. Crossbow prices vary, but they’re similar to prices for compound bows.

4. Arrows

Once you’ve selected a hunting bow, it’s time to pick your arrows. Arrows must be matched to your bow’s draw weight and draw length. To ensure you make the right choice, consult experts at the nearest archery store.

5. Broadheads

For most target practice, archers shoot arrows tipped with practice points. When it’s time to prepare for bowhunting season, swap your field points for broadheads. Broadheads wield razor-sharp blades that cut through a game animal’s hide, flesh and organs to cause quick, ethical harvesting. Broadheads come in nearly infinite options, but some might be better suited than others for the quarry you hunt and the bow you shoot. Again, ask an expert for advice to ensure your broadhead matches your setup.

6. Bow Accessories

This is a broad category. The accessories you need depend on your bow and your budget. Those shooting a compound, crossbow or traditional bow must have a hooded quiver to carry their broadhead-tipped arrows. Most hunting quivers attach to the bow or crossbow, but some bowhunters prefer quivers they carry over a shoulder or attach to a pack.

Next, arrow-rests hold the arrow in place while drawing and shooting. The options are many, and the styles vary by bow and personal preference. Release-aids attach the bowhunter to the bowstring, and feature a trigger that releases the arrow.

Release-aids are standard gear for shooting a compound bow. Those shooting traditional bows use a shooting glove or finger tab, which protects the shooter’s fingers when drawing the bowstring and releasing the shot.

A bow-sight is a reference point for aiming, and typically has one to six pins the shooter adjusts individually to precise distances. You’ll find plenty of options for bow-sights, and the archery store’s pros can help you find your best option. Even so, a sight is not absolutely necessary for some bowhunters, especially those shooting traditional gear. However, they’re a great training aid when learning archery, and deliver consistent accuracy.

Bowhunters who use crossbows require fewer accessories than those using vertical bows. Crossbows are commonly sold in kits with everything needed to start shooting, but many options exist if you dislike what’s included.

Scopes, for example, come in various magnifications, and at highly varying price points. Be sure to consult an archery pro to determine which scope meets your hunting needs.

Crossbow hunters also require a cocking device, which helps them draw the bow and lock its string into the fire-ready position. A simple string-cocker uses a rope and pulleys for this task, but some crossbows feature a hand crank that makes the job nearly effortless.

7. Clothing

Bowhunting and camouflage go hand in hand. Camo helps bowhunters remain unseen so unsuspecting game approaches within range. Matching camo to your hunting area can feel overwhelming, but experts at an archery or sporting-goods store can help.

No matter what you choose, be sure to dress in layers. Bowhunting can require bouts of vigorous, sweat-pumping activity followed by long stretches of wet, chilly waiting in harsh elements. Layering helps you stay comfortable by adding or removing layers to match the situation.

8. Backpack

You’ll need a hunting pack to carry your gear, water, snacks, licenses and hunting gear. If you plan to hunt where you’ll often hike long distances, consider a pack that can carry your bow. And if you hunt areas accessible only by foot, choose a pack that’s substantial enough to help pack out your animal.

9. Boots

Veteran bowhunters put good boots at or near the top of their gear list. Whether you’re sitting, still-hunting or spot-and-stalk hunting, boots are vital to consistent success. If you regularly hike a mile or more to reach hunting sites, your boots must offer comfort and support. Stand-hunters, meanwhile, usually place priority on boots that keep their feet warm all day.

10. Ground Blind/Treestand

Stand-hunters hide out and wait in treestands or ground blinds for animals to come into bow range. Ground blinds are essentially small, portable camouflage tents that set up where you hunt. Treestands conceal bowhunters by elevating them above the animal’s normal view. Both are excellent options. If you bowhunt from a treestand – the most common method for bowhunting deer – never leave the ground without wearing a full-body safety harness to prevent a fall.

No matter your hunting style, also carry binoculars and a rangefinder. Binoculars help you search the landscape for game and identify it. And rangefinders quickly pinpoint the distance to your quarry.

Did you get all that? No matter which bow you choose or the style of bowhunting you try, expect an adrenaline rush like you’ve never experienced when that deer, bear, elk or turkey walks into range. And to ensure you’re ready for that big moment, start scouting now to find a nearby bowhunting shop to help guide you along.

By: Tyler Ridenour of Bowhunting360.com

The 6.5 Creedmoor is beloved by many for its long-range shooting capabilities.

However, the 6.8 Western recently emerged as a worthy contender to dethrone the 6.5 as everyone’s favorite cartridge.

Is that possible?

When comparing the 6.8 Western Vs 6.5 Creedmoor, which one comes out on top?

Let’s find out.

6.8 Western Vs 6.5 Creedmoor

The 6.5 Creedmoor cartridge and 6.8 Western cartridge look similar to each other and the 270 WSM; in fact, if you’re not paying close attention, it would be easy to mix them up.

However, don’t let their similar appearances fool you into thinking they perform exactly the same.

We’ll walk through both calibers regarding their performance and specs to decide a winner for each category.

At the end of the article, we will count the winner of each category to determine a winner.

Cartridge Specs

As I mentioned, the 6.8 Western round and 6.5 Creedmoor round have a similar appearance, but there are noticeable differences if you know where to look.

Let’s start with the bullets; the 6.5 Creedmoor uses a .264″ bullet while the 6.8 Western bullet is .277″.

The larger 6.8 Western bullet typically comes in 165-grain – 175 gr. It’s also offered in a 130-grain bullet.

The typical 6.5 Creedmoor bullet ranges in weight from 120 gr to 147gr.

The 6.8 Western has a case length of 2.02″ and a cartridge overall length (COAL) of 2.955″ which is slightly longer than 2.86″, the traditional definition of a short-action rifle cartridge.

The 6.5 Creedmoor has an overall length of 2.825″ with a case length of 1.92″.

The shoulder angler of the 6.8 Western is 35-degree, while the 6.5 Creedmoor is 30-degree.

The 6.5 Creedmoor has a smaller rim diameter of .473″ than the .535″ rim diameter of the 6.8 Western.

It makes sense that the 6.5 Creedmoor has a smaller case capacity of 52.5gr and maximum load pressure (SAAMI) than the 74.0gr of the 6.8 Western. 62,000 psi for the 6.5 Creedmoor and 65,000 psi for the 6.8 Western.

6.8 Western Recoil Vs. 6.5 Creedmoor Recoil

As a young shooter, I was hesitant to shoot a gun with a lot of recoil. As I’ve matured, I have learned to handle the recoil better, although I’m not an expert marksman.

The lighter the recoil the easier it is to be more accurate.

Recoil still matters to me because I enjoy shooting a lot. If I’m at the range, I prefer not to come home with a bruised shoulder.

While I’m hunting, felt recoil doesn’t matter as much because my adrenaline is usually pumping, but I don’t want a rifle that will knock me out of my tree stand! And if you want an enjoyable hunting experience this fall, make sure you stock up on Hornady 6.5 Creedmoor hunting ammo and bring home the buck of a lifetime.

Felt recoil is determined by several factors, including but not limited to bullet weight, gun weight, recoil pad, and how well you shoulder the rifle.

The 6.8 Western has 30.1 ft-lbs of felt recoil, while the 6.5 Creedmoor only has 15.63 ft-lbs of felt recoil.

The 6.5 Creedmoor nearly has half the recoil of the 6.8 Western, so if you’re sensitive to recoil, the 6.5 Creedmoor is the best option for you.

Trajectory

The bullet trajectory matters because the flatter the bullet shoots, the better for the shooter because the adjustments will be minor compared to a projectile with more drop.

All bullets shoot in an arch because of gravity, but a faster bullet velocity will resist gravity better than a slower bullet so that it will have a flatter trajectory.

The 6.8 Western shoots heavier bullets at a faster velocity than the lighter bullets of the 6.5 Creedmoor, so it has a flatter trajectory.

Zeroed in at 200 yards, the typical 6.8 Western bullet will have a 6.3″ drop at 300yds, 18.1″ drop at 400yds, and 38″ drop at 500yds.

The typical 6.5 Creedmoor bullet zeroed in at 200yds will have 7.9″ of drop at 300yds, 22.4″ of drop at 400yds, and 44.4″ of drop at 500yds.

The winner is the 6.8 Western it has a much flatter trajectory.

Accuracy

Like everything else when shooting, several factors determine the round’s accuracy. The rifle, shooter, recoil, and bullet are contributing factors.

You can take the same rifle but shoot two different brands of ammo from it, and the accuracy will vary.

What I’m saying is that accuracy is a fickle metric.

Both calibers are extremely accurate since both were designed with long-distance shooting in mind.

There will be little difference in accuracy in the hands of a well-trained marksman.

But for the average shooter like myself, the 6.5 Creedmoor will be slightly more accurate than the 6.8 Western because it has less recoil.

The winner by a slight margin is the 6.5 Creedmoor.

Ballistic Coefficient

The ballistic coefficient (BC) measures how well a bullet resists wind drift and air resistance. To say it another way, it’s how aerodynamic a bullet is in numerical form.

High BC bullets are preferred because this means the bullets will resist the wind more.

Generally, heavy bullets will have a higher BC as it takes more force to change the flight of a heavier bullet than a lighter one.

Ballistic coefficient varies from bullet to bullet based on design, weight, and other factors beyond this article’s scope.

Anything over .500 is considered a high ballistic coefficient.

You can generally expect a 6.8 Western 165gr AccuBond Long Range bullet to have a BC of .620. The heavier 170 gr Ballistic Silvertip bullets have a lower BC of .563.

Surprisingly the AccuBond Long Range 142 gr and the Hornady ELD-X 143gr 6.5 Creedmoor bullet have a BC of .625, and the 140gr Ballistic Silvertip has a ballistic coefficient of .509.

The 6.5 Creedmoor has the higher BC, but only slightly.

Stopping Power

Many internet warriors will argue stopping power doesn’t matter, and they’re right, to a point.

A well-placed shot from a small caliber (with little stopping power) can be as effective as a larger caliber.

However, stopping power matters because not every shot is perfectly placed.

Generally speaking, a bigger bullet will leave a bigger hole, so the larger caliber should have more stopping power, but bullet design also plays a role.

A full metal jacket (FMJ) won’t cause as much damage as a jacketed hollow point (JHP).

Stopping power is also determined by how well the bullet penetrates the target. This is often measured as Sectional Density (SD).

Sectional density is the ratio of the diameter of a projectile to its mass.

In theory, a heavier projectile will be longer and have a higher sectional density, meaning it will penetrate further than bullets with less mass and a lower sectional density.

This means that bullets of different weights of the same caliber will have varying sectional densities.

Generally speaking, the 6.8 Western will penetrate further because it has a greater sectional density than the 6.5 Creedmoor.

The 6.8 Western is the winner of this section because it has more stopping power than the 6.5 Creedmoor due to its larger-sized bullets.

Hunting

The 6.8 Western has an advantage here because it was designed as a hunting cartridge; however, don’t discount the effectiveness of the 6.5 Creedmoor as a hunting round.

Both calibers are capable of long-range hunting, so it ultimately boils down to which hunting bullets can be used for the widest variety of species.

Which big game cartridges give you the most bang for your buck? Sorry, I couldn’t resist!

The 6.5 Creedmoor performs best while varmint hunting, whitetail deer hunting, and pronghorn hunting. It can ethically harvest a mule deer, but it’s not recommended to hunt game any larger than deer since it has a small bullet.

The 6.8 Western is capable of ethically harvesting elk. You can use the 6.8 Western while moose hunting, but most hunters prefer a larger caliber because of the increased size of a moose.

The 6.8 Western edges out the 6.5 Creedmoor to win this category of big game hunting.

Home Defense

Unless you’re defending your home from an invading army that’s still a long way off, I wouldn’t recommend these calibers for home defense or self-defense.

These calibers are designed for bolt-action rifles that are not the best for home defense situations.

This is because the bullets will penetrate walls and could harm your family members or neighbors.

They also take a long time to reload and aren’t easy to aim in close quarters.

That’s why I recommend using a 12 gauge or 20 gauge for home defense and a 9mm or .45 Auto for self-defense.

If you only own one gun and it’s chambered in 6.5 Creedmoor or 6.8 Western, by all means, use it to defend yourself, but you should understand the risks you’re taking.

This section is a tie. Neither caliber stands out for home or self-defense.

Long-Range Performance

The 6.5 Creedmoor has incredible long-range performance. It’s not even close when we compare the 6.5 Creedmoor vs. 308 Winchester. The 6.5 easily outperforms the 308 in long-distance shooting.

That’s because the 6.5 Creedmoor was designed to outperform the 308. What about the 6.8 Western?

How does it measure up to the 6.5 Creedmoor?

The 6.8 Western outshoots the 6.5 Creedmoor in long distances because it has a flatter trajectory, a heavier bullet that resists wind drift, and more downrange retained kinetic energy.

The 6.8 Western is the best choice for long-range applications.

Ammo Cost & Availability

One of the most important factors to consider before purchasing a firearm is ammo availability and its cost.

If you often enjoy shooting at the range, it’s best to go with the caliber that is more readily available and costs less per trigger pull unless you have a well-stocked trust fund!

The 6.5 Creedmoor is the older round, so more companies manufacture ammo for it, such as Winchester, Hornady, Browning, and Sellier & Bellot.

The cost per round for 6.5 Creedmoor is $1.50 to $2.75.

The 6.8 Western is still a new cartridge and much more difficult to find because not as many manufacturers are making it.

Winchester and Browning are the two primary companies that make ammo for the 6.8 Western.

As of this writing, it will cost around $2.95 to $4.60 per round.

As more companies begin to make this caliber, I suspect the price to drop at least a little due to competition.

The 6.5 Creedmoor wins this category because the ammo is easier to find and less expensive.

Rifle Cost & Availability

Winchester and Browning are currently the only two making rifles chambered in 6.8 Western because they’re the two companies that developed the new cartridge.

This means they set the price for the rifles. Thankfully, they’re reasonably priced.

A Winchester XPR chambered in 6.8 Western will cost $599, which is the same price as the same short-action rifle chambered in 6.5 Creedmoor.

Both calibers in the Model 70 also cost the same, $1,629.

The Browning X-Bolt chambered in 6.8 Western costs $2,699 vs. the 6.5 Creedmoor costing $2,679.

This difference is minor, but the number of companies who make 6.5 Creedmoor firearms compared to the number of companies that make rifles chambered in 6.8 Western is astounding.

Mossberg, Nosler, Ruger, Remington, Springfield Armory, Weatherby, and many more produce rifles chambered in 6.5 Creedmoor.

So the cost of 6.8 Western rifles and 6.5 Creedmoor rifles is nearly the same, but the overwhelming availability of the 6.5 Creedmoor gives it the win in this section.

Reloading

Reloading is one of the best ways to save money on ammo.

Most shooters prefer to handload because it gives them the greatest control over the final product.

Once you figure out what bullet works best with the twist rate in your barrel and the powder brand that burns cleanest, you can fine-tune each round for optimum performance.

You can control the controllable variables instead of being at the mercy of mass-produced factory loads.

Both calibers can be reloaded; however, since the 6.5 Creedmoor is the older round, more information is available.

Plus, the reloading supplies are easier to find because more people reload this caliber.

Keep in mind this also means there’s a higher demand for all the supplies, so they will be some of the most difficult to find when supplies are low.

As the 6.8 Western grows in popularity, the information will become more available, as will the reloading supplies.

Until then, the 6.5 Creedmoor wins this round.

6.8 Western Vs 6.5 Creedmoor Ballistics

The ballistics of both calibers are similar because they’re intended to be used in comparable scenarios.

However, they are not precisely the same, so the team at ammo.com made a ballistics chart for the 6.5 Creedmoor, and I found some ballistics data on the 6.8 Western.

6.8 Western Ballistics

The muzzle velocity of a 165gr Nosler AccuBond Long Range 6.8 Western bullet is 2,970 Feet Per Second (fps).

At a 200-yard zero, the 6.8 Western bullet will drop 6.3″ at 300yds, 18.1″ at 400yds, and 38″ at 500yds.

Obviously, this information will change as the variables and conditions change, but this will give you a good idea of where to begin.

6.5 Creedmoor Ballistics Chart

Note: This information comes from the manufacturer and only for informational purposes. The actual ballistics obtained with your firearm can vary considerably from the advertised ballistics. Also, ballistics can vary from lot to lot with the same brand and type load.

6.8 Western Development

The 6.8 Western traces its roots to the .270 Winchester Short Magnum (WSM) released in 2002 and its parent cartridge, the 270 Winchester.

The .270 WSM fell short in a few key areas, primarily the lack of twist rate in the rifle barrels, so Winchester and Browning teamed up to improve it with a new cartridge that could handle a faster twist.

They accomplished their goals with the 6.8 Western and released it in 2021. Initially, they received a lot of criticism for introducing a new caliber instead of increasing the production of their other calibers because they were struggling to keep up with demand.

However, that criticism has subsided, and the popularity of the 6.8 Western is beginning to rise amongst long-range shooters and hunters.

6.5 Creedmoor Development

The 6.5 Creedmoor was created out of necessity. In 2005 Dennis Demille was approached by several competition shooters complaining about the unreliability of their guns and 6mmXC ammo.

So he talked with his friend Dave Emary, Hornady Manufacturing’s senior ballistician, who told Demille to make a list of what he wanted from a new cartridge.

Demille came back with his list-

1. The cartridge must be able to fit into a magazine for the rapid-fire stages of the competition.
2. Less recoil than a 308 Winchester for better follow-up shots and shooter comfort during rapid fire.
3. Flatter trajectory than a 308 with an accurate, high BC bullet.
4. Good barrel life.
5. Uses readily available reloading components so results can be duplicated.
6. Reloading recipes printed on the box.
7. Produced in quantities that could keep up with demand.

In 2007, Hornady debuted the 6.5 Creedmoor. At first, most people were skeptical of the round, believing it to be too small for hunting and not enough power for long-range competitions.

It didn’t take long for the nay-sayers to become fans, and the rest is history.

Parting Shots

If my math is correct, the 6.5 Creedmoor won 6/11 categories, making it the winner by a narrow margin.

I think it is pretty apparent that both calibers are highly effective rounds, and neither would be a terrible choice for long-range shooting.

However, when it comes to the 6.8 Western vs 6.5 Creedmoor, the lesser recoil of the 6.5 Creedmoor gives it an edge for most people.

If you’re a big game hunter, the 6.8 Western is the way to go.

I can confidently say the 6.5 Creedmoor is not obsolete.

Success is far from guaranteed when predator hunting, and every hunt holds just as many challenges as it does promise. To overcome these challenges, crafty predator hunters dig deep into their bags of tricks to turn the odds in their favor.v

Sometimes, the most overlooked or obscure tactic is the one that puts fur in the shed.

Few predator hunters’ bag of tricks run quite as deep as Tad Brown’s. Brown has spent decades chasing coyotes, bobcats and various other furbearers in every corner of the country, and he’s grown accustomed to meeting predator hunting’s challenges head-on.

The following are six of Brown’s most effective predator tips and tactics, which he regularly employs to produce consistent success.

1. Drive Instead of Walk

Over the years, the idea that vehicle traffic imparts undue pressure on local predator populations has been ingrained in the average hunter’s psyche. However, Brown feels this notion is of little merit, and that traveling as close as possible to your next set by vehicle can often be among the least invasive means of access.

“I won’t walk 10 feet to my spot if I can hop in my truck. Coyotes are so used to hearing vehicles now. You have guys checking cattle, working on plots, putting up hay and driving through farms. It’s a common occurrence, and coyotes do not pay it any attention,” says Brown.

However, he does warn against throwing all caution to the wind, and stresses the importance of remaining aware of common predator hunting fundamentals. “Just get right in there with them, but use a little common sense. You still have to have the wind to your face, and it still makes sense to hide your vehicle.”

2. Hunt Past the Initial Shot

Another tactic Brown feels others overlook is to continue calling even after the hunt’s first shots have been fired. While many believe that the sound of gunfire scatters wary coyotes to parts unknown, Brown says thinking along these lines often costs hunters more shot opportunities than they ever realize.

“Guys tend to think that once they’ve fired a shot, they’ve scared everything in the country. There is nothing further from the truth. I can think of at least a half-dozen instances where I’ve killed or shot at a coyote only to have a bobcat or another coyote come into the call,” Brown says.

He also finds it helpful to vary his calling in the moments directly following a shot. “A lot of times, after I bust a coyote, I will go to a ki-yi or pup distress,” he says. “Doing so seems to have some type of instinctual effect on them, almost like a challenge of sorts. Typically, I’ll only do this for a short period of time before changing back over to a prey sound.”

3. Hunt Quality Sets Regularly

Many predator hunters believe a location can be rendered useless by overhunting it and will allow a spot to rest for a significant period between hunts, especially after it’s produced success. On the contrary, Brown feels that nature fills the void any time predators are removed from an area, and the avoidance of quality setups can cost you fur in the long run.

“Most people discount a location if they’ve already called it. Coyotes are constantly on the move, and one will almost always take the place of another,” Brown says. “It’s almost like waiting in line for the bathroom. Once you take a coyote out of an area, others will be waiting for their turn.”

Brown has seen the benefits of frequently hunting the same spots within areas of high predator traffic on numerous occasions. “There’s a spot on a ranch I hunt that is like my honey hole,” he says. “If I’m out there for four or five days, and the wind is right, that will be the first set every morning. I’ve had hunts where a coyote responds every time I call at that location.”

4. Prepare Spots in Advance

For most, predator hunting tends to be a run-and-gun endeavor. Hunters often seat themselves in a promising looking spot and then make decisions on the fly. However, Brown says that one of his most effective strategies is preparing sets in advance.

“There isn’t anything worse than setting down in a spot, calling in a coyote and realizing you’re not in position to take advantage of it,” he says. “I like to go into an area ahead of time and sort out whether I will be able to kill a cat or coyote if they come down a particular road. I treat my predator hunting spots just like my deer or turkey spots. I like to trim shooting lanes and make sure I can see.”

Brown feels that this level of preparation not only increases his odds of success, it makes him a more effective hunter in general. “Sizing up a spot before hunting it allows me to make decisions about where and how to set up for a certain wind, as well as how best to call,” he says. “Knowing these things in advance and preparing each spot allows me to be a more efficient predator hunter and put more fur on the board.”

5. Let Curiosity Be Their Undoing

If you ask any number of predator hunters what they do to finish reluctant coyotes or bobcats, most will be adamant about varying up their calling in a bid to entice a frenzied response. Brown, on the other hand, finds that the best medicine for stubborn predators is often to let their curiosity get the best of them.

“Most guys go to a squeaker bulb or a coaxer sound to finish cats or coyotes. I tend to do nothing. I either stop calling or turn my volume way down. They know what they heard, and shutting everything off is more than a coyote or bobcat can stand,” says Brown.

He also emphasizes the importance of staying vigilant, even if a predator seems to lose interest after calling has ceased. “A lot of times a coyote will seem to slip off, and this might make you think he’s leaving. However, if you just sit there, he’ll often pop back into sight.”

6. Scale Setups Based on Location

Many hunters approach eastern predator hunting with a broad-stroke approach, mirroring many of the techniques that are commonly used when hunting in the Midwest and West. However, Brown feels that hunters often limit themselves by not tailoring their efforts to suit the area in which they are hunting.

“When hunting out West, you typically put several miles between sets. This is rarely the case when hunting in more populated areas in the East,” he says. “You almost have to treat densely populated areas like a miniature golf course. You aren’t driving that ball a couple hundred yards; you’re putting it just a few feet. When hunting the East, I typically tone my calling volume down and make more individual sets.”

He’s also quick to point out that eastern hunters are afforded a significant amount of opportunity based upon the general lay of the land. “If you were to hunt 1,000 acres of land, even if it’s more heavily populated, you can make far more sets back East than would be the case when hunting in the West.”

Much in the world of predator hunting has remained relatively unchanged over the past several decades. However, avowed predator hunting fanatics, such as Tad Brown, continue to experiment with new and innovative means of finding success. By utilizing such techniques in your own predator hunting, you’re likely to find yourself knee-deep in skinning duties this winter.

Coyote Kit

Gear that’ll take your game to the next level.

Alps Outdoorz Enforcer

If your predator hunting keeps you on the move, the Alps Outdoorz Enforcer backpack (above) is a one-size-fits-all solution for quick, convenient and comfortable setup. The Enforcer features 800 cubic inches of storage space, a removable kickstand frame and an integrated memory foam cushion. ($169.99; alpsbrands.com)

FoxPro XWAVE

FoxPro’s new XWAVE e-caller offers hunters a level of versatility that few other calls do. It features two swiveling high-definition speakers, a compatible auxiliary jack for decoy integration and 100 pre-loaded sounds with the capacity for an additional 1,000 sounds. The XWAVE is Bluetooth-enabled, allowing hunters full control from their mobile devices. ($699.95; gofoxpro.com)

Primos Double Bull Stakeout Blind

The Double Bull Stakeout Blind with SurroundView ensures that you are never left scrambling for a hideaway when gunning for predators. This two-wall blind features translucent panels that allow you to see out without predators seeing in. The Stakeout Blind is also extremely portable, weighing only 4 1/2 pounds, and deploys in seconds. ($99.99; primos.com)

Vortex Fury HD 5000

This range-finding binocular makes it possible to glass for coyotes while simultaneously gauging their distance. While looking through these 10X42 optics, a hunter can center a small crosshair and take distance measurements out to 5,000 yards. This state-of-the-art bino features a “scan” mode, which allows for real-time distance measurement when tracking moving predators. ($1,599.99; vortexoptics.com)

If you’re doing any kind of precision long-range shooting with your AR, you’re probably going to be shooting from a bench rest or a prone position…more so the latter if you’re really trying to reach out and touch something far away.

I’ve gone through several bipods, from the cheap to the “guess I’ll just skip eating this month,” so I like to think I have a pretty good idea of what to look for in a bipod, particularly one for an AR-15.

What makes a good AR-15 bipod?

Well, for me, an AR bipod and a bipod for a bolt gun are pretty similar, but there are a few considerations for an AR bipod that make certain ones slightly better than others.

Let’s talk about what makes a good AR-15 bipod and what bipods you should be looking at if you’re interested in shooting with one.

THE QUICK LIST

Why a Bipod in the First Place?

Shooting off bags or with a ransom rest is great and all, but good luck hauling those around if you’re hunting, participating in action shooting sports, or, worse, actual combat.

A bipod, when appropriately used, gives you a lot more stability than trying to shoot free-hand, and it attaches directly to your rifle, so you don’t have anything else to lug around — though it does add some weight to the front end.

What Makes a Good Bipod?

Let’s talk about some of the considerations when choosing a bipod for your AR-15.

Find Something that Matches Your Caliber

Like a lot of things, the best bipod for you depends on your application. If you’re shooting a big .50 cal, you’re going to need something extremely robust and sturdy.

If you’re shooting a lightweight .22 target rifle, you still need something that will give you a stable shooting platform, but you can get by with something a little less robust.

Most AR-15s are fairly light in the recoil department, and you’re likely to be moving around with it unless you’re just doing some target shooting at the range, so you are best with something lighter if you can get it.

As with most things, you get what you pay for, so if you think you can get by with a $50 airsoft bipod on your expensive precision rifle, you are sadly mistaken.

This segues nicely into the next big consideration…

Durability of the Bipod

Your bipod is going to undergo a lot of stress between the recoil and supporting the forward load you put on it to control said recoil.

Because of these stresses, we want a bipod that is going to stand up to repeated use and abuse. Now, if you’re looking for a rifle you shoot twice a year, you can skimp a little here. If you’re looking to hunt or compete with your bipod or plan on target shooting a lot, buy once, cry once.

Go with a nicer one. It’ll save you money in the long run when your cheapo knockoff doesn’t lock in place anymore.

Height of the Bipod

Height is another thing you need to choose based on your specific circumstances.

For one thing, the bipod needs to be able to reach a height that is comfortable and appropriate for the shooter. It’s absolutely possible for a bipod to be too low.

Most bipods have legs that adjust from 6 to 9 inches, which is a pretty standard height, but I personally like legs that go up to at least 15 inches to accommodate a broader range of shooting positions and angles.

Other Features

Some other little quality-of-life things are worth considering as well.

Bipod Feet

Are you mostly shooting on hard-packed dirt in the desert, or are you hunting over mostly soft-ish ground? Are you shooting off barricades and obstacles? Maybe you’re using the side of your deer stand or a tree limb most of the time.

There are specialized feet that excel on all these different terrain types and in these situations. I like a bipod with interchangeable feet so I can have whatever I need when I need it, but in general, I’d say go with a more aggressive foot than you think you’ll need.

Soft surfaces are stable surfaces, and hard-packed turf can cause your rifle to bounce more under recoil, which can make your follow-through and follow-up shots more difficult.

In general, your sights should stay on target through the recoil impulse, so if you find your crosshairs way off after a shot, there’s a chance your bipod isn’t gripping and is bouncing off the surface.

This is why we push forward to “load” the bipod, which is made easier with a more aggressive foot that grips the ground or other surfaces better than a smooth rubber one.

Notched Legs

This isn’t strictly necessary but notched or otherwise marked legs that let you get a really precise level are nice. These are also nice if you regularly shoot from the same bench and want to have a consistent height.

Pan and Tilt

A bipod that can pan left and right and tilt up and down is great for folks that may need to track a moving target, or otherwise have a large area they need to cover.

It’s not strictly necessary if you’re, for example, target shooting or even doing something like 3-Gun where you’re generally going to be shooting in one direction for safety purposes.

Attachment Method

Many bipods come ready to attach to the forward sling swivel on a bolt gun, which is something your AR probably doesn’t have, so may sure either you get one that works with your handguard, or you get an adapter that has a sling swivel for the other style.

Generally, a Picatinny mount with a QD lever is the way to go.

Best Rifle Bipods

Alright, with the criteria out of the way, let’s look at some recommendations. These are generally going to be for brands or particular lines rather than specific bipods because you’ll need to choose the one that meets your particular needs.

1. Harris Engineering Bipods

Harris bipods are perfect for those on a budget, especially since your AR isn’t going to put the stress on it that a larger caliber would.

I like the Harris 1A2-LM in particular because of its lightweight and easy-on-the-wallet price tag. If you’re looking to give this bipod thing a try, this is the perfect entry-level bipod in my mind.

They can regularly be found on sale in the $60 range, which is quite good for the quality and very good when you consider that some high-end bipods (that we’ll get to in a minute) can easily hit ten times that price.

2. Atlas Bipods

My preferred flavor of bipod comes from Atlas, and I will fill you in on why.

I’ve dragged mine through dirt, and mud, lost it off the side of a boat for about 15 minutes (no, it wasn’t my fault, yes I was furious), and generally abused it and never had a problem.

They are north of $200, but that’s actually pretty cheap compared to some of the really high-end bipods out there.

I’ve used this bipod on a .300 Win Mag rifle with no problems, so I can comfortably say it’s as bomb-proof as you can get at this price point, and it doesn’t bounce under heavy recoil.

It also has a really solid height adjustment and a wide variety of OEM and aftermarket feet you can easily swap out to suit your personal preference.

What’s your take on the Atlas? Rate it below!

3. GG&G Bipods

GG&G is another middle-of-the-road bipod option that is also good in this price range and is also made in the U.S., like Atlas bipods.

I include this one because I’ve heard such good things about it from other serious shooters.

You can get a GG&G bipod for about the same price as a base model Atlas, but when you start looking at higher-end Atlas offerings, the price difference might come into play.

In general, I’d say go for either one, depending on which one is cheaper and how important some of that Atlas line’s extra features are.

4. Elite Iron Rev Lution Bipod

Are you one of those “overkill is underrated” types? Me too.

If you want a bomb-proof bipod that you can also use as a club once you run out of ammo, the Elite Iron Rev Lution is where you should look.

This is the bipod I’d buy if I needed just one to move from rifle to rifle with the confidence that it could handle anything from a .22 LR to .408 (no that’s not a typo).

Its extended legs can rotate 360 degrees within the mount, and thus you can get away with all manner of angles and configurations.

All-steel construction features no exposed springs, and an easy-locking will let you have a rock-steady shooting platform, even at weird angles.

The only downsides are the price ($600+) and the weight at 34 ounces, but if you’re looking for one bipod to do it all, this is the one.

5. MDT CKYE-POD Gen 2 Bipod

The MDT CKYE-POD might be the premier bipod on the market. I can’t think of one better than the CKYE-POD if you are a professional shooter who needs a top-tier match bipod.

MDT designed the bipod to be easily adjustable with a single hand to allow positive control over the rifle as the bipod is deployed and put into action.

Adjusting the CKYE-POD’s leg height can be done with a single hand without much challenge. It’s quick, simple, and allows for broad adjustments.

On the standard model, adjustments range from 4.5 inches to fairly tall 15.5 inches. The height of the legs can also be adjusted independently of each other.

With 170 degrees of cant and 360 degrees of pan, your ability to move the rifle from target to target is unparalleled. There is also a pan-free version if you don’t care for the pan feature.

There is a separate tension adjustment for both pan and cant, and you can also swap the feet to best fit your shooting environment.

It comes in either left or right-handed designs, so even you wrong-handers can feel at home.

On top of all the fancy features, the CKYE-POD also featured a rugged design. It is made to last and refined with a tumble deburring process for smooth and easy operation.

6. Spartan Precision Equipment Valhalla Rifle Bipod

This lightweight, high-tech bipod is designed with input for Norwegian special operations, earning it the Valhalla namesake.

It uses a rather ingenious and unique attachment system. You attach an included adapter, be it M-LOK or Picatinny, and then attach the bipod to the adapter.

This allows you to quickly remove and attach the bipod on the fly. Bipods are great when you need them, but when you don’t, they are boat anchors that unbalance your rifle.

After you remove the bipod, you are left with an adapter that weighs a few ounces at most, making it much easier to handle or store your rifle.

The Valhalla features 7075 construction with a hard-anodized finish. The feet feature tungsten carbide tips with textured synthetic slip-on ‘boots’ to accommodate multiple environments.

Spartan Precision designed the legs to be easily adjustable with a single hand, and they are spring-loaded for rapid deployment.

It’s a bipod designed for hunting, competition, and tactical shooting. It’s one of the most modular bipod platforms on the planet, and if you prefer that flexibility, this is the route to take.

7. Magpul Bipod

Magpul does a great job of delivering a product, and they did so again with their newly released bipods. These are half polymer and half Aluminum, meaning they are robust and lightweight.

Available in M-LOK, A.R.M.S. 17S, and Picatinny rail mounting options and in both Black and FDE colors — it’s fairly easy to find the right one for your rifle and tastes.

Adjustable between 6.3 and 10.3 inches gives most people the height options they need without adding undue weight to the system.

Weighing in at only 11 ounces also puts it at a fairly low weight comparatively, making it easy to hike and move with.

The feet aren’t our favorite we’ve used, but they do a good enough job on most surfaces and are durable even on ragged rock.

Plus, it’s got a nice clean look to it.

Final Thoughts

There are a lot of great AR-15 bipod options out there. Hopefully, this has given you some ideas about what makes a good bipod, how to choose, and some good places to start your search.

What do you think of these bipods? Do you have a favorite? Be sure to let us know in the comments below! Going to be shooting prone often? Check out our article on the 5 Best Shooting Mats!

To most people, spring fever means days on the water, family cookouts in the backyard, and a long-awaited wardrobe transition. For turkey hunters, however, the mainstream intrigue is only secondary to the nonstop chaos of breeding competition among gobblers, and all of the incredible hunting opportunities the season brings. The same hunters get restless once they have a taste of the action, itching all year long to get back into the budding woods with a shotgun and a repertoire of calls and strategies they’ve been sitting on since last season. And, while good game calls and effective hunting blinds are necessities, nothing throws an exclamation point on a turkey hunting approach better than some well-placed decoys. With such a large market for decoys, however, it can be difficult to know which ones are worth spending your money on.

Sometimes a big Tom just needs a little extra motivation to con him into archery or shotgun range, so we did the research to find the best turkey decoys on the market today.

Avian-X HDR Jake and Hen Turkey Decoy Combo

This combo is perfect for areas full of especially aggressive birds, as they offer a wildly lifelike appearance that’s sure to bring big Toms in on a string. Each decoy is blow-molded and comes with two interchangeable heads to change up your presentation on the fly. And to make things more convenient in the field, they come with a carry bag for easy transport to the field, as well as carbon ground stakes for a quick-and-easy setup.

MOJO Outdoors Tail Chaser Max

For the hunters who like the run-and-gun approach, this is a hard option to beat. This turkey fan decoy comes with a printed photo-realistic Tom in a full strut position, which folds up for portability. It also features legs that help give your gun a steady rest for the shot, which will probably come in handy after being on the move just to get into position. And, if you want a little more realism, you could always attach a real turkey fan, too. At $40, this is a bargain.

Lucky Duck Lucky HD Collapsible

This is a solid, versatile option for only $70. If you’re lucky, you might even find it on sale for less. Made of durable plastic and a folding metal stake, this strutter turkey decoy folds up to make it easier to transport. Similar to the last option, this fan is also removable if you prefer having a real one, which might give you a slight edge to draw in that old, aggressive gobbler.

Dave Smith Decoys Jake Turkey Decoy

The Dave Smith brand has a great reputation for turkey decoys of exceptional quality, but they do come at price. This Jake decoy is made of a resin and has over 70-perfect five-star ratings on the Cabela’s website. The company claims its decoys can stand up to being shot multiple times without showing damage. Each includes a ground stake and a handy carry bag for transportation, and features exceptional attention to detail.

Primos Gobbstopper Turkey Decoy Combo

Anything from Primos typically lives up to the hype these days, and these soft-sided decoys are no different. Each decoy included in this combo folds up quickly with stakes and a carry bag, making them great for when you need to wander far off the beaten path for that prime spot. For $70, you get a Jake and a hen that are sure to enrage any big gobbler that sees them. Boasting a high rating on the Cabela’s website from buyers, this is a great option for shopping on a budget.

Dakota Decoy X-Treme Feeding Hen

If you want a hard plastic decoy that is designed to last many seasons, this feeder hen is a solid choice. This is perfect for a more casual setup sure to ease the nerves of hesitant birds. Built of EVA plastic, this decoy is airbrushed with fine details that will consistently draw in big birds. Additionally, the metal stake stores inside the body when not in use.

Montana Decoy Fanatic

Another fan decoy built for stalking, this option offers great portability, as well as a see-through mesh window so you never have to break the illusion of another bird. This setup allows you to sneak up on those birds that are wary of your stationary decoys. For a mere $44, you can’t go wrong.

Flextone Thunder Chick Hen Decoy

Besides having an awesome name, this is a solid decoy at a price that’ll fit almost any hunter’s budget. Blow-molded and built of a one-piece construction, this decoy boasts both durability and simplicity. Flextone also includes a carbon-fiber stake, and offers both a feeding and an upright option, which gives you flexibility in your setup. Ideally, you can buy more than one and set up a variety of different looks to coax cautious birds.

Davey Smith Mating Motion Pair

If the big birds are too wary of your strutter decoys, you may need something more to draw them in. Few decoy setups spice things up more than a controllable mating pair. A cord allows you to manipulate gobblers with this Jake-and-hen combo, which presents the potential to absolutely enrage territorial gobblers that ignore every other kind of setup. Like any other Davey Smith decoy, this combo isn’t cheap, but users swear by its effectiveness. It also comes with ground stakes and a carry bag.

Hunter’s Specialties H.S. Strut Hen and Jake Combo

These two foldable, hollow-body decoys are sure have the big gobblers running, and at an affordable price. These decoys feature flake-resistant paint that should last season after season. Both are bright and colorful, guaranteeing at least a look from any curious gobbler nearby. For the hunter on a budget, you get two solid decoys for $70.

Avian-X Strutter

For one of the best Tom turkey decoys on the market, it’s hard to go wrong with the highly-rated Avian-X. This strutting decoy comes with a silk tail standard, but includes the ability to add real feathers. Many hunters consider this the gold standard for strutting gobbler decoys, as so many have tagged out using it.

Redhead Reality Series Crazy Jake

Nothing will fill a dominant Tom with rage more than a young Jake strutting in his territory. This one is smaller than other strutting decoys, which should prove less intimidating for birds that are shy of standard-sized decoys. You can also adjust the look by mounting a real tail fan or by trimming the beard. For $50, this is a bargain.

For more outdoor content from Travis Smola, be sure to follow him on Twitter and check out his Geocaching and Outdoors with Travis YouTube channels.

READ MORE: HIGHLIGHTS FROM OUR WEST TEXAS TURKEY HUNT

The following ammunition cartridge ballistics information and chart can be used to approximately compare .223 Remington vs .30-30 Winchester ammo rounds. Please note, the following information reflects the estimated average ballistics for each caliber and does not pertain to a particular manufacturer, bullet weight, or jacketing type. As such, the following is for comparative information purposes only and should not be used to make precise predictions of the trajectory, performance, or true ballistics of any particular .223 Remington or .30-30 Winchester rounds for hunting, target shooting, plinking, or any other usage. The decision for which round is better for a given application should be made with complete information, and this article simply serves as a comparative guide, not the final say. For more detailed ballistics information please refer to the exact round in question or contact the manufacturer for the pertinent information. True .223 Remington and .30-30 Winchester ballistics information can vary widely from the displayed information, and it is important to understand that the particular characteristics of a given round can make a substantive difference in its true performance.

Caliber Type Velocity (fps) Energy (ft-lb) .223 Remington Rifle 3150 1250 .30-30 Winchester Rifle 2370 1890

Velocity

As illustrated in the chart, .223 Remington rounds – on average – achieve a velocity of about 3150 feet per second (fps) while .30-30 Winchester rounds travel at a velocity of 2370 fps. To put this into perspective, a Boeing 737 commercial airliner travels at a cruising speed of 600 mph, or 880 fps. That is to say, .223 Remington bullets travel 3.6 times the speed of a 737 airplane at cruising speed, while .30-30 Winchester bullets travel 2.7 times that same speed.

Various calibers

Energy

Furthermore, the muzzle energy of a .223 Remington round averages out to 1250 ft-lb, while a .30-30 Winchester round averages out to about 1890 ft-lb. One way to think about this is as such: a foot-pound is a unit of energy equal to the amount of energy required to raise a weight of one pound a distance of one foot. So a .223 Remington round exits the barrel with kinetic energy equal to the energy required for linear vertical displacement of 1250 pounds through a one foot distance, while a .30-30 Winchester round exiting the barrel has energy equal to the amount required to displace 1890 pounds over the same one foot distance. As a rule of thumb, when it comes to hunting, muzzle energy is what many hunters look at when deciding on what caliber of firearm / ammunition to select. Generally speaking, the higher the muzzle energy, the higher the stopping power. Again, the above is for comparative information purposes only, and you should consult the exact ballistics for the particular .223 Remington or .30-30 Winchester cartridge you’re looking at purchasing.

Please click the above links to take a look at all of the .223 Remington and .30-30 Winchester ammo we have in stock and ready to ship, and let us know any parting thoughts in the comment section below.

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We offer cheap ammo and bulk ammo deals on the most popular ammo calibers. We have a variety of deals on Rifle Ammo, Handgun Ammo, Shotgun Ammo & Rimfire Ammo, as well as ammo for target practice, plinking, hunting, or shooting competitions. Our website lists special deals on 9mm Ammo, 10mm Ammo, 45-70 Ammo, 6.5 Creedmoor ammo, 300 Blackout Ammo, 10mm Ammo, 5.56 Ammo, Underwood Ammo, Buffalo Bore Ammo and more special deals on bulk ammo.

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