What’s the most diverse group of guns in use by the world’s military forces?

It’s not rifles, or machine guns, or submachine guns, or even shotguns. Most successful long-gun fall into just a few different designs.

When you see oddball service rifles, you often see them plagued by issues of all kinds I.E. the INSAS, the FAMAS, the SA-80, and even the G36 have all had their problems.

The most diverse group of military weapons are handguns, aka sidearms. Even within certain countries, pistols can be diversely issued depending on the unit and mission.

Sometimes pistols are such a second thought they are a mishmash of different guns.

For example, see Israel at the near end of this list. Another challenge is how countries outside of Western Europe equip their military forces. In the Western World, there is a big move towards standardization that’s not present with other countries.

Several countries also don’t put out a press release when they purchase or adopt a new handgun, making it difficult to verify the information.

To be entirely fair, sidearms are just a step above bayonets on the necessity of military equipment priorities. Most countries issue them in small numbers to officers and specialists.

I put my best foot forward to come up with a comprehensive list of the sidearms from around the world. It was a little harder than I initially thought, but the research was still fascinating and fun.

With all this in mind, I’ve tried my hardest to verify the issuance of every firearm on this list. I set my parameters to general issue sidearms.

Some Special ops teams may use something different than the standard forces, and trying to catalog these weapons along with general sidearms would take several articles.

For example, the United States military alone issues the Beretta M9, the M17/18, the MEU/SOC 1911, the SIG P226, the M11A1, the P229R, the Glock 34, Glock 17, Glock 19, Glock 22, and many more we’ve likely never seen. It’s much more reasonable to focus on the general issue sidearms of these military forces.

Since several military forces have adopted the same gun, we’ll group those together to simplify things.

1. United States – SIG P320 Designated the M17/18

I was lucky enough to be at SHOT Show when it was announced that the SIG P320 would be adopted for military service with the U.S. Army. Needless to say, the folks at the SIG booth were quite excited.

The P320, designated the M17 and M18, was adopted in 9mm in full size (M17) and compact (M18) variants. The M17/18 series are quite advanced for military sidearms and feature red dot optics compatibility. Although red dots have not been issued as far as I know.

Like the P320 the ability exists to move the serialized fire control group to different grip modules. The military is quite strict with serial numbers and if the military allows the issued troop to choose a grip module they could get a gun that fits them. One size fits all is rarely a good idea.

Of course, the U.S. Military is nanny like and included a manual safety. In reality, more training would be more beneficial than a manual safety, but who am I to judge big army.

The M17 has since been adopted by the Air Force, the Navy, and the Marines. The M17 is currently being issued to combat arms units first in the U.S. Army. The Army plans to replace every M9 within ten years with an M17/18.

2. Commonwealth Club – The Browning Hi-Power

Canada, Australia, Bahrain, India, Thailand

The Browning Hi-Power is the European 1911.

What I mean by that is its popularity and longevity in military service. The Hi-Power has been used by just about everybody and in only the last few years have more modern designs replaced it.

The Hi-Power was one of the first high capacity 9mms that entered regular service. It’s a single action only weapon with a manual safety and a 13 round magazine. The Hi-Power is a beautiful gun that is robust and reliable.

It’s close to 100 years old and is still seeing war.

It’s one of the few guns to see action on both sides of WW2 in service with numerous Allied Forces, including the British, and in the hands of Germans. The Hi-Power is an excellent firearm and was a final fitting design for John Browning.

Its legacy of service across the world is nearly unmatched. Much like the sun never sets on the British empire, the sun doesn’t set on the Hi-Power. While it’s been produced mostly in Europe, the gun is also widely built in South American factories as well.

It’s been heavily used in Europe, the Middle East, Asia, and South America. From imported goods to domestic production copies, the Hi-Power is a legend in small arms design.

It’s currently the issued sidearm of Commonwealth countries like Canada and Australia, and as far out as India and Thailand.

3. 20+ Nations – The Glock 17, 19, and 34.

The United Kingdom, Sweden, Austria, Finland, Malaysia, Mexico (Navy), Montenegro, The Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Switzerland, Yemen, Venezuela, Uruguay, India, and many more.

It would seemingly be easier to make a list of countries the Glock 9mm series doesn’t serve in. The weapon seems to be everywhere in the world.

Why not? The 9mm Glocks are the flagship of their handguns, and the only difference between the 17, 19, and 34 is barrel and grip length.

Glock 9mm pistols are legendary for their rugged and reliable design. These superbly simple guns work, and keep working. On top of that, Glock has logistics nailed with supplies and spare parts out the yin yang.

Generation wise it appears that Gen 3 and Gen 4 models are the most popular variants in the military market. The Glock series also seems to be the most popular choice in countries where Spec Ops have more leeway in choosing a handgun.

The Glock series of firearms are popular the world over for a good reason. They are accurate, easy to use, highly reliable, lightweight, and cheap. The price Glock sells their guns to Police Forces is criminally low, and I imagine the price for military forces is even smaller.

Penny pinchers often give a big say when it comes to new guns, and price always matters. Glock makes their weapons affordable while being high quality. As far as military sidearms go the Glock 17 will likely remain the most popular choice for some time to come.

If you want to get your own Glock, you should take a look at some of these articles:

• Best Glock (All Sizes & Calibers)
• Best 9mm Glock
• Best Glock Upgrades

4. Germany, Ireland, Greece, and Spain – The HK U.S.P.

I love the HK U.S.P. It’s one of my favorite DA/SA guns, and that’s saying a lot. The U.S.P., or universal self-loading pistol, is Heckler and Koch’s premier handgun design.

It’s a fascinating gun and while 9mm is the chosen NATO cartridge the USP was one of the first guns built around the 40 S&W. The gun was also chambered in 357 SIG, and later 45 A.C.P.

The U.S.P. stood apart from other polymer-frame guns of the time due to its mechanical recoil reduction system. This system is implemented with a heavy captive coil spring around the guide rod that reduced the force of the slide slinging rearward.

This buffers recoil by up to 30% according to H.K. The U.S.P. came to be because of the Offensive Handgun Weapon System, where it was tested alongside prototypes of the Mk 23 Mod 0. From the very beginning the gun was always meant to be a service pistol.

As a service weapon, it has been adopted by at least four countries as the general issue sidearm. In several more countries, it serves as a pistol for Special Operations units. Plus the U.S.P. C. is Jack Bauer’s gun of choice.

5. The French – M.A.C. Mle 50 and PAMAS G1

I’m not picking on the French, but any look into their current small arms will find them lacking. Their military is often ignored and their weapons are often quite old. There are two current service pistols in use, and neither is a new design.

First we have the ancient, but domestically designed M.A.C. Mle 50 and then the PAMAS G1. The PAMAS G1 is a licensed clone of the Beretta 92F and is built in France.

The 30-year-old G1 was supposed to replace the MAC Mle 50, but it seems the process has been moving along very slowly. They are looking to now replace both pistols as of March 2019.

The M.A.C. Mle 50 is a product of its time, and as a gun designed in 1950, that means it’s a single stack 9mm with nine rounds and a single-action design. It uses the Browning system like a Hi-Power and has an integral barrel feed ramp.

The M.A.C. 50 is a stout little gun that’s known for its durability, clearly, since it’s been around for nearly 70 years now.

The PAMAS G1 is a clone of the Beretta 92F made in France. There are a few differences between the PAMAS G1 and Beretta 92F. The G1 has a decocking lever only, and apparently, the French steel is more brittle.

Since it’s a 92F, it lacks the enlarged hammer axis pin that prevents the slide from accidentally leaving the gun and hitting the operator in the face. However, there is some speculation this was initially caused by +P+ ammo.

The French will likely adopt a Glock pistol, but until then, the M.A.C. and PAMAS are chugging along. The PAMAS is certainly a step up from the MAC, but both are likely well past their service life.

6. South Korea – The Daewoo K5

South Korea has a robust and well established domestic arms production history. Rather than just relying on the U.S., the Daewoo brand has produced most of South Korea’s military firearms.

The Daewoo K5 is an innovative and exciting firearm design that has served the Koreans since 1989.

The Daewoo K5 is a DA/SA pistol with a hammer, made on metal frame and is chambered in 9mm. The Daewoo K5 holds 15 rounds of 9mm, and in 1989 was quite high tech. It’s slightly dated now, but still an excellent combat pistol.

The K5 features an unusual trigger mechanism, sometimes called Triple action or Double action +. It’s quite similar to the P99, except with an actual hammer-fired handgun. The K5’s hammer can be decoked, while still maintaining mainspring compression.

The end result is a trigger pull with the length of a double-action trigger, but the weight of a single-action design. In the states, the Lionheart imported pistol had the same innovative feature. The K5 is a fascinating gun, and in 1989 showed a lot of innovative thought from Daewoo and South Korea.

Daewoo is an interesting company. They make everything from TVs to Cars, and handguns and assault rifles. If you need a slow, fuel-efficient car and a machine gun, call Daewoo.

7. China – Type 92

The Type 92, aka the QSZ-92, is China’s primary service sidearm. This recoil-operated, locked-breech pistol has a rotating barrel locking system like the Beretta PX4 series. This rotating barrel setup is supposed to improve reliability and decrease recoil.

This is an interesting little gun, and it was ahead of its time.

The Type 92 was designed in 1994 and featured a detachable steel frame that holds the fire control group. This sits in the plastic grip and acts very much like a SIG P320’s FCU. The frame can be removed and moved into different sized frames and grip designs.

Whether or not this was ever done remains to be seen. The gun is also chambered in the very odd 5.8x21mm round. This was China’s variant of the 5.7 and was designed to defeat soft armor.

It holds 20 rounds of the 5.8×21 round in a double-stack magazine and has a combination safety/decocker. It’s a DA/SA design and is issued lightly among Chinese forces.

9mm variants also exist for export… for reasons.

I’m betting the 5.8 round handles a lot like the 5.7, and it’s a shame we can’t find out for ourselves.

8. Russia – Makarov, and MP-443

Russian is a weird country for small arms.

Admittedly they are much more focused on their rifles than their handguns. That’s why the Makarov pistol is still around and kicking in use by their military forces. This Great Value brand Walther PP has been serving since 1951.

It’s a blowback-operated design that’s very compact for a service pistol. When your handgun is more or less used for executing traitors and subjugating people, I guess size doesn’t matter. The Makarov had a capacity of 8 rounds of what is essentially a +P .380 ACP round.

The most impressive thing about the Makarov is the fact it’s made of only 27 parts. This was perfect for the Soviet Union at the time. It is cheap and easy to produce, and had very few failure points.

The Makarov pistol has been around for so long because the former Soviet Union produced millions of them, and they are robust little pistols.

The MP 443 Grach, aka the PYa, is a more modern Russian service pistol that aims to replace the Makarov. The MP 443 is a modern 9mm Parabellum pistol with a 17 or 18 round magazine capacity. The MP 443 is slowly making its way into the hands of Russian forces, and the gun has been in mass production for eight years now.

The MP 443 is pretty standard as far as pistols go. It’s a DA/SA design that does allow the user to swap the slide stop lever and manual safety to the right and left sides of the gun. The MP 443 uses a Colt-Browning design and doesn’t do anything revolutionary.

So it’s a lot unlike bored Russians in that sense.

It is an all-steel gun, and while this adds to the gun’s weight, it is quite robust and durable. It needs to be to use the Russian armor piercing 9mm 7N21 armor-piercing round. This s a +P+ style round apparently and is a hard hitter

The MP 443 is another gun we will likely never see, but I doubt it does anything an old SW 3rd gen doesn’t do.

9. Belgium – FN Five-Seven

The Belgium FN Five-Seven pistol is an interesting firearm. It fires the 5.7x28mm round and was developed to share ammunition with the FN P90 PDW. The round it fires is similar to a rifle round in design and shape.

While the ammunition is long, it’s thin, and this allows the Five-Seven to hold 20 rounds in a flush-fitting magazine. The Five-Seven offers soft armor penetration and very low recoil on top of a flat shooting cartridge that can reach out to 100 yards.

This is a very easy shooting gun, and I can see why a military would adopt it. Plus it’s lightweight, reliable, and is unlike most handguns when it comes to armor and barrier penetration. The gun and the ammo is quite pricey though.

The gun is Belgium designed and is currently replacing the Browning Hi-Power with the Belgium Army. The Five-Seven also serves the Air Force, Special Forces Group, and Federal Police forces. The Five-Seven is an unconventional choice but is an effective weapon.

And of course, it is the firearm of Ivan Chesnokov fame.

10. Czech Republic – C.Z. 75 Phantom

The Czech Republic has a long history of private firearms ownership and is one of the few European countries to have a strong firearm’s civil rights. C.Z. is also one of my favorite personal gun makers.

The C.Z. 75 has been used extensively by their military for quite some time, and still serves in reserve units.

The C.Z. 75 Phantom is now the primary service pistol. This gun is similar in design to the classic C.Z. 75 but features a polymer frame, Picatinny rail, and a decocker only design. It also uses a larger 19 round magazine, but can also work with classic C.Z. 75 mags.

The C.Z. 75 Phantom is a robust and accurate weapon. The ergonomics are simply incredible, and C.Z. isn’t afraid to sell the gun in the States, so yay for us. The Phantom is a service pistol with the handling of a competition gun.

It has an excellent trigger, a low bore axis, and is well proven. The Phantom is an excellent gun, and it was a great choice by the Army of the Czech Republic.

11. South Africa – Vektor Z88 and SP1

South Africa has an exciting history of arms design and has both cloned and created their weapons. Their service handguns are a mixture of both. The Z88 was a domestically produced clone of the Beretta 92.

They couldn’t license it or receive handgun imports due to the arms embargo on South Africa at the time. Beretta also couldn’t sue because South African’s couldn’t come to court to defend themselves.

The Z88 was a direct clone of the Beretta 92 and, as such, is a DA/SA gun with a decoking safety and a 15 round magazine. The Z88 was a very well done clone and helped modernize the South African military. It still serves today in a limited role.

After the sanctions were lifted, Beretta was in a place where they could file lawsuits, so South Africa wisely changed the design and came up with the Vektor SP1. This gun utilized the same basic Beretta design with some changes. The safety was moved to the frame, the barrel was no longer exposed, and a 40 S&W variant was created.

The SP1 is a metal frame pistol, and it still utilizes Beretta magazines. It currently serves the South African National Defence Force and the Police Service. It admittedly looks very cool and while limited numbers were imported to the States I’ve never seen one in person.

The SP1 is reportedly a well made combat handgun, and since the weapon is based on a Beretta 92 it’s got a solid platform to start on. South Africa apparently likes the weapon enough that they’ve yet to start shopping for a new sidearm, even without an arms embargo.

12. Italy – Beretta 92FS

Beretta, the world’s oldest still-operating arms company, is an Italian firm. Are we at all surprised that the Italians are using one of Beretta’s most legendary handguns?

The 92FS has served several countries as a military and police sidearm, including our own, for more than 30 years.

The Italian military uses the Beretta 92FS. This DA/SA design features one of the best stock factory triggers on the market. The 92FS has a combination safety and decocker and excellent ergonomics outside of the safety.

The 92FS in it’s M9 form was the gun I used and it’s an excellent weapon. The 92FS is robust, reliable, and well-proven. The direct feed system and open slide design greatly increase the gun’s reliability.

Beretta’s and the U.S. Army’s numerous testing has shown that the weapon is extremely reliable and can take a ton of abuse before it cracks.

The all-metal frame pistol has very low recoil and handles like a dream. It’s perfect for both new recruits and expert shots. The 92FS is Italy’s standard service pistol, and there doesn’t seem to be a rush to swap it out.

13. Brazil – Taurus PT-92

The PT-92 is the Brazillian copy of the Beretta 92, made by Brazillian firm Taurus. It’s not an identical copy of the Beretta. Taurus makes these guns on original Beretta machinery left behind after Beretta’s military contract expired in Brazil.

The Taurus PT-92’s most significant and most noticeable change from the Italian Stallion was the use of a frame-mounted combination safety and decocker. Other than that, the PT-92 handles almost identically to the Beretta 92.

This includes the DA/A design, the direct feed design, and the double-stack magazine. The PT-92 has been serving the Brazillian military for decades now without much issue. The teething problems the Taurus guns sometimes have are seemingly not present in the P.T. 92’s design.

14. Israel… A Little Bit of Everything

Tracking down one service pistol for the Israeli army isn’t easy. It seems like they keep a bit of everything around.

The domestically produced Jericho pistol is in the inventory, as well as the SIG P226 and 228, the Hi-Power, the Glock 17 and 19 models, and more.

Researching this article has shown me that service pistols in the Israeli Army are highly uncommon. The Special Forces and Intelligence agencies all seem to have their particular pistol.

I mean, does the Uzi pistol count as a pistol?

The one common thread between Israeli pistols is that they are all quality options. They are well made, proven guns with a long history of service and success.

Conclusion

Service pistols are such a diverse subject to cover, guns that include both past and present designs. The current field of Service pistols around the world is massive, and I was left exhausted after researching and writing this article.

Service pistols are a fascinating subject to research, and I’m surprised to see such exciting diversity. I can’t possibly have conquered them all, so I ask you fine folks in the comments, which ones have I missed? Want more…check out Police Sidearms: From Past to Present.

Do you have an open area on your hunting property you wish you could screen off in order to get to or from your stand without bumping deer? Or maybe you’ve got a crop field or food plot you wish you could block from the road or section off from a larger field. Or perhaps you just want to break up a monotonous landscape to make it hunt bigger. If any of these thoughts have crossed your mind, chances are you googled something like ‘screen trees for hunting property’ or ‘best tree/shrub/plant to create a screen’ or ‘fast growing screen trees’.

That last one is especially relevant because in today’s world, we want everything NOW!

Well . . . not gonna lie, we are in the same boat for our hunting property. We have a low-lying swamp just off the road, which sits a good 4 feet higher than the swamp, so spotting deer from a vehicle is a breeze. Also, the swamp is not your typical cattail and dogwood type swamp, it’s mostly medium height grasses with a few willow clumps scattered throughout – so you can see deer when they are up and walking. During hunting season, we’d constantly see vehicles slowing and stopping to observe deer from the quiet country road, eventually they’d run off and seek better cover – obviously, this wasn’t a positive thing. Not to mention, the increased possibility of poaching, especially with us being absentee landowners. Thus, I began my search for a fast-growing screening tree or shrub that was water tolerant (because we’d have to plant them along the edge of the swamp).

A general planting map showing our line of trees to obstruct view into the swamp. The separate clumps are to break up the openness and hopefully act as buck bedding areas.

I started to research screen tree varieties and species online. I came across several sites that offered what I was looking for, but ultimately the price was more than we were willing to pay. Keep in mind, we were looking to screen off approximately 425 yards of road frontage, which with one tree every five feet (1 tree/5 ft.) we needed approximately 300 trees to create a thick enough screen to create a visual barrier into the swamp – multiply that by $6-$10 per tree and it adds up really quick. Nonetheless, most of these sites were offering similar varieties of trees, so I had a good starting point. Now it was time to search deeper into the interwebs to find a tree farm or nursery with an affordable price.

If you’re after a fast-growing screen tree, you’ll likely have two options to choose from – a hybrid poplar or a hybrid willow of some sort. Long story short, we finally stumbled across Kelly Tree Farms, based out of Clarence, Iowa and they offered the details, photographs, pricing, and fast growing screen trees we were looking for. We opted for 300 of what they call the Austree Hybrid Willow. At a $1 per tree (or cutting) it seemed reasonable.

Before showing you pictures of our plantings, I wanted to mention that we intend to plant another row of these Austree willows staggered behind the first row using clippings from this year’s willows (free). Also, we plan on planting some type or variety of coniferous trees (likely spruce) behind the willows to provide a long-term, year-round screen for the deer in the swamp.

We will be updating this blog throughout the year to track the progress of the living and supposedly fast growing whitetail screen. But first, here are a few things I learned along the way when trying to purchase the perfect screen tree for deer online.

1. It’s hard to find a website with good images of what the screen tree will look like down the road (we plan on changing that with this blog). Kelly Tree farms showed nice examples as well.
2. There’s no “perfect” screen tree out there.
3. Don’t expect a screen the very first year.
4. Think about future plantings and a more permanent screen.
5. Get creative. Along with planting the line of screen trees we planted several clumps of seven willows to break up the openness and create more preferred bedding areas.

The hybrid willow screen trees came packaged in bundles of 100 cuttings. After a week of soaking in a bucket of water, roots were nearly two inches long and buds were sprouting from the tops.

We used an auger planting bit ($10 from hardware store) to drill the pilot holes for the cuttings. One thing to note, site preparation is key and they recommend a weed/grass free planting environment. A healthy dose of RoundUp (glyphosate) should take care of any competing vegetation.

Planting instructions said to leave 2-5” of the top unburied. Fill in around the roots to provide good soil contact.

Just a stick in the mud… hopefully it’s a couple feet tall the next time we see it. And that’s it, with four guys we had 300 trees planted in 3 hours.

Check back often as we will be updating the blog monthly with progress photos.

June 9th update. Growth after 2 weeks.

July 20th update. About 3 feet tall.

July 20th update. Multiple stems about 3 feet tall.March 21, 2018 update: They survived the first WI winter and starting to bud. Most of them have multiple stems and stand about 4 feet tall. We planted the hybrid willows on the outer edge of the screen to create a fast and more immediate screen, while the spruce trees grow up and create an evergreen screen for the future. Tallest tree is about 6 feet tall.

NEXT UPDATE WILL BE IN MAY AFTER LEAFE OUT.

When I think of snapper blues I think of my youth. Countless memorable days in late August, sunburned shoulders, casting from a jetty in Madison, CT near my grandparents’ house. There was no 10-fish limit back then, and a bucket full of snappers fed the family fried-fish dinners for several nights. Today, the same excitement still thrills me when I feel one tugging on my spinning gear, fighting like a fish twice its size. Tigers cloaked in kitten bodies.

I’ve met anglers who believe snapper blues are their own species, and those folks were surprised to learn that “snappers” are simply baby bluefish. Anyone familiar with juvenile blues knows the name comes from the fast and fierce snapping of the jaws, which can inflict an impressive finger wound from even the smallest fish.

Snappers are young-of-the year bluefish, which become a “catchable” size of about 5 inches long when they invade our waters in late July and early August. They eat and grow at a remarkable rate, sometimes approaching nearly an inch per week. Late-season snappers reach at least 10 inches long before they migrate south in September, and are formidable opponents on a light outfit. They’ll strike at any lure smaller than themselves, making them a great target for young or beginner anglers and anyone looking for fishing fun on the saltwater.

Snapper Appeal and Locations

“When you find a school of snapper blues,” said Elliott Taylor, a snapper expert with 20 years’ experience in both CT and RI waters, “the bite can last all day, and you don’t need any special tackle to catch a limit. You don’t have to be a saltwater angler to get into snappers [although a saltwater license is necessary to target and/or harvest them], a lightweight freshwater rod will suffice, making these fish accessible to people of all ages and skill levels. Snappers, however, are not hardy fish—many don’t survive the catch-and-release process—so it’s best to have a plan for your catch, and stick to the limit only.

“You can find snappers close to shore, in estuaries and near structure like rock piles, docks and jetties where they chase bait like silversides, mummichogs and grass shrimp. Breachways and mini rip lines near shore often hold snapper blues, and nearshore tern activity is a great indicator the fish are there. Fleeing baitfish and small surface breaks are other exciting giveaways.”

Technique

The easiest technique for catching snappers is to fish a small metal lure. Using this method, you cast—from either shore or a boat—as far as you can and then slowly reel in. Small tin lures are designed to tumble and flash, imitating a wounded or escaping baitfish, which draws any snappers within sight. Snapper pros experiment with different retrieve speeds to see what works best on a given day—faster speed keeps the lure near the surface, and slower speed allows it to sink a bit. Generally, try to keep the lure about 2 feet below the surface with your rod tip near the water.

An advanced technique is to work a flat metal rapidly across the surface with your rod tip held high, which causes the lure to travel along the top like a jumping baitfish—the same concept as working a big surface plug for adult bluefish. The trick is to reel it as slowly as possible while keeping the lure skimming the surface. The commotion triggers aggressive strikes, and it’s fun to see the hits on top.

Despite their reputation as voracious feeders, bluefish of all sizes are sometimes fussy. Bait is often the answer when small blues hesitate striking tin lures. If you’re only stocked with lures, try dicing a silverside into tiny chunks and use a piece to sweeten the treble hook on your metal.

Other snapper experts are diehard bait anglers, which means using a snapper rig—purchased from a tackle shop or home tied—consisting of a small hook threaded with shiners and bobber or “snapper popper.” Set the popper to hold the bait about 18 to 24 inches below the surface. Cast your line a little way out from the dock or jetty and wait. Some anglers try to cast as far as they can, but that’s unnecessary with bait and may cause a soft bait to tear from the hook. Like fishing for freshwater panfish, when you see the popper dip below the water you know a snapper is biting.

“Gently but erratically retrieving snapper poppers will attract fish that are spread out,” said Taylor, “as will using small, freshwater, surface-popper lures with the first treble hook removed. In areas with a large concentration of fish, a very small tin such as a Kastmaster, Hopkins or Deadly Dick is most efficient.”

Tackle

An inexpensive, light and durable 5- to 7-foot, small spinning outfit and assortment of small metal lures are perfect for quickly loading up a limit on snappers. You can add to the fun and challenge by bringing along a small fly rod.

“I use ultralight tackle,” said Taylor, “like a 6-foot 6-inch Ugly Stik Intercoastal and small reel spooled with 10-pound mono finished with a short 20-pound fluoro leader. But slightly heavier saltwater rods to 8 feet will also work, especially if you’re expecting any type of larger fish mixed-in. Long casts and intermittent twitches during a quick retrieve with a 1/8-ounce silver Kastmaster from any craft, including a kayak or SUP, attracts plenty of attention from the ever-present summertime snappers. You can move up to a 1/4-ounce for bigger snappers later in the season. Four- to 5-weight fly rods are also an absolute riot for snapper blues using a minnow imitation or bucktail retrieved quickly.”

Snappers for Bait

In the absence of traditional baitfish like porgies or bunker, snapper blues make good baits for slammer bluefish and even striped bass, but the main use for snappers as bait is for late-season doormat fluke. Keeping within the 10-fish limit, you can fish snappers either dead or alive, and there are several approaches when doing so. Some pros rig the snapper in the same manner you’d rig a shiner for largemouth-bass—from the bottom lip through the top, typically off a traditional fluke rig, either with a fluke bomb or off a three-way swivel.

To fish the fluke bomb, start with a barrel swivel attached to a 3-foot section of 30-pound fluorocarbon leader. Tie in a 6-inch dropper loop at the mid-point of the leader, and attach a large, flashy teaser. At the end of the leader, attach a snap swivel to clip on a fluke ball heavy enough to hold bottom. Cut a second 3-foot length of 30-pound fluoro, and attach it to the 9 o’clock position on the fluke ball with another snap. Tie in a 5/0 Gamakatsu live-bait hook for your main bait at the trailing end of the leader. This rig works equally well with live or dead snappers.

To fish a snapper live, some people prefer to place the hook in the back, just in front of the dorsal fin. You can also hook them through the nostrils. They can stay alive this way for a length of time. If the snapper is dead, however, don’t fish them with the flared gill covers and bent up head, typical of their rigor mortis position, because they spin in the current. If that condition happens, cut off both gill covers and bend the body straight. Sewing the mouth shut helps, too.

Other fluke pros “butterfly” the snapper bait by running a fillet knife from the tail up close to the head on both sides of the spine. Some experts then remove the spine for an unobstructed flutter action.

Snappers in the Skillet

Many people don’t like eating bluefish, and therefore won’t eat snappers. But snappers don’t have the same dark meat and strong taste as adult blues. Their flesh is light and finely textured.

“They are great in the frying pan,” said Taylor, “just remove the head by making a diagonal cut behind the gill covers, cutting through the backbone. Gut the fish by pulling the head down, removing it from the body along with the entrails. Season to your liking with salt, pepper and oregano, and fry on medium heat until golden brown.” You then simply and easily eat the fillet off the backbone as you would a small trout.

The Elusive Striper

“These juvenile bluefish,” said Taylor, “also work great as live bait for large striped bass. When I was 10 years old, I was out in our Merrimac canoe with my father near a rock pile on Quonny Pond in Westerly, RI. We watched pods of bait swirling with packs of snapper blues meticulously corralling and devouring the peanut bunker and shiners. We were casting small Kastmasters and slowly filling our two-person limit for dinner. Suddenly, a large striper erupted inches from the boat, startling us, and taking a mouthful of bait and snappers with it. Frantically, we casted hoping to catch the bass, but to no avail. Since then, I have landed several 15- to 35-pound stripers using snapper blues.

“Catching your bait can be just as fun as catching your target species. Snapper fishing is consistently fast-paced, making it a quick cure for the fishing bug when other fisheries are slow in late summer.”

Having a proper fishing reel for a specific fishing situation can make your fishing experience a whole lot better.

There is a lot of models available on the market, and choosing the right one can be a nightmare, especially for a bit less experienced angler.

Complete fishing beginners usually start their fishing adventures with spinning reels, but at some point, you may want to upgrade a bit, and learn how to use a baitcasting reel.

I wouldn’t recommend you to do so if you have no previous fishing experience, however, if you feel like you can manage, don’t let anyone stop you.

I tested a lot of baitcasting reels and decided to write this guide, to help you narrow down your choices, and choose the best baitcasting reel for beginners.

Also, I will tell you basic info about what to consider when buying a baitcasting reel and answer some common questions, in the following chapters:

9 Best Baitcasting Reels for Beginners

Now when you know what to look for when choosing the best baitcasting reels for beginners, I will make a list of the reels, including basic info about them, and all the pros and cons I have notice when I used them.

All of these have good anti backlashes properties, and will give you a lot of control over the lure and casting.

When you figure out how to use them, you are going to see how much better these are, when compared with spinning reels, when used in the same situations.

Before you move onto the more detailed descriptions, here is a quick overview chart …

#1: KastKing Royale Legend II (GT)

So, the first reel on the best baitcasting reels for beginners list is KastKing Royale Legend II (GT).

First of all, if you are buying on a budget, this reel comes at a great price. Of course, it is not as durable as some more expensive models, but it still has some great features.

Dual, magnetic and centrifugal, braking system controls the backlashes well, and while you are still in a learning process, you won’t have to untangle a huge mess.

The newer model has a greater line capacity, and the reel is quite fast. Anodized aluminum spool and a low-profile design are well made. The reel is strong and performs well, however, I don’t think it will last as long as some other reels.

The reel has 5+1 bearings that ensure smooth operation. Of course, at this price, their quality is not the same as in high-end reels, but it still works very well.

Maximum drag is 8kg/17.6 lbs.

Overall, this is a great and well-made beginner’s baitcasting reel.

#2: PisciFun Torrent

Another great option for beginners is PisciFun Torrent.

It is available in two options. Faster one, with 7.1:1 gear ratio, and slower one, with 5.3:1 gear ratio. Both are very well made.

Drag system is very dependable and the max drag is 8.1kg/18lbs, which is more than enough. The reel is made mostly from aluminum, including the handle, with carbon fiber drag washers, and it has brass drive gear.

There is a useful feature for maintenance on this reel. There is an opening on a side plate that is used for lubricating the reel.

Both options have 5+1 bearings and are really smooth. Line retrieve varies of course, and for the slower model it is 58cm/22.8 inches, while on the faster one it is 76cm/30 inches.

This low-profile baitcasting reel comes at a great price too, costing only a few dollars more than the previously mentioned reel.

Magnetic braking system operates well, although there is a slightly greater chance of backlashes here, than in the previous one. However, there is a 0-10 setting, which is very useful. It is also slightly heavier, and it weighs 0,22kg/8 ounces.

Altogether, it is a very good choice for a beginner.

#3: Abu Garcia Black Max

Abu Garcia is a classic when it comes to baitcasting reels.

I have included two on this list of the best baitcasting reels for beginners. The first one is Abu Garcia Black Max model

This low-profile reel comes with a 6.4:1 gear ratio with 66cm/26inches inches per turn, which positions it in the middle. This is great for beginners, as it can be used in various situations.

Magnetic braking system operates well, and backlashes are not a problem, if you get the settings right. It has 4+1 bearings, and those are very well made. The reel feels very smooth.

Maximum drag is 8.1kg/18lb.

Graphite frame and sideplates make it quite light. The reel weights 0.206kg/7.3 oz, which makes it just slightly harder than the first model on the list, hoverer the difference is small enough not to feel it.

Spool is made from aluminum. Price of this reel is in the same range as the previously mentioned models.

This reel really feels well. Due to the materials used in construction I don’t think it will last as some high-end models, of course, but for a beginner, it is an excellent reel to start. This reel is also a good back-up reel option.

#4: Abu Garcia Silver Max

Baitcasting Reel Abu Garcia Silver Max is another reel made by Abu Garcia (reputable manufacturer). At first sight, this reel has some similar features as the Bmax 3 model.

Gear ratio is the same, 6.4:1, and the main material is graphite, while the spool is aluminum. Breaking system is also magnetic, and operates quite well.

This reel comes with a “rocket clutch” feature, that gives the angler an opportunity to single handedly disengage or engage the spool.

It also has 5+1 bearings, which is one ball bearing more than the Bmax 3. Max drag is 8.1kg/18lb, and line retrieve is 66cm/26inches per turn.

Weight of this reel is 7.4oz, which is unnoticeably higher than the previous.

So, these two may seem the same, so what is the difference?

Well, the difference is that Smax has a rocket clutch which is a great feature for those who flip and pitch often.

For compete beginners, this feature will not be so important, so they can go with the previous model.

#5: KastKing Spartacus I & II

Spartacus is another great KastKing model. This reel exists in 2 versions, where II is a bit more advanced.

Spartacus II is among the faster reels on this list.

It has 7.1:1 gear ratio with 71cm/28 inches per turn. The 7+1 bearings ensure smooth operation. Version I has 11+1 ball bearings.

It is also very light, and weights only0.17kg/ 6oz. This is excellent for loner use and it doesn’t put a lot of pressure on your wrist.

Maximum drag is similar to other reels, and it is 8kg/17.6lbs.

Both Spartacus I and II are low profile, but the II version has it 10% lower.

Magnetic brakes go from 1 to 5 and work really well.

Spool and handle are made from aluminum, which makes them quite sturdy. Unfortunately, it has a few plastic parts too, and the main material is reinforced nylon, which I personally do not like, especially when you combine them with a relatively good spool.

I don’t think it can last very long, however; it comes at a great price. Don’t get me wrong, this is an excellent beginner option.

Spartacus I is also slower, with a gear ratio 6.4:1, with 66cm/26inches per turn if you need a slower reel. Maximum drag is the same, but this one is a bit heavier, and weights 0.2 kg/7.4oz. It also has dual braking system.

#6: KastKing MegaJaws

The first thing that amazed me on this reel is a casting distance. For a baitcaser in this price range, casting abilities are excellent. Line guide is funnel shaped and has very low friction.

It comes in a few different variations, so that you can choose among various gear ratios. Slowest one is 5.4:1, while the fastest is 9.1:1. This range cover almost all fishing techniques. These reels come with a cool feature, and that is different color for every reel speed.

Carbon fiber drag is incredibly smooth, as well as the whole reel, due to 11+1 stainless steel ball bearings. Ball bearings are double shielded to prevent damage and corrosion.

The 17.6 lbs. of drag is more than enough for beginner anglers.

Reel maintenance is also well made and simplified. There are easily accessible reel parts for lubrication.

Magnetic brake system works very well and prevents backlashes. Tension knob is adjusted by simple clicks and offers an outstanding level of control. The reel is lightweight, and it is easy to use it all day long.

It seems quite sturdy and dependable even for rough use.

#7: Shimano SLX

Shimano SLX looks absolutely excellent at first sight, and it really is. It is a bit more expensive than some cheaper models on this list, but it is worth it.

HAGANE body is used, and that is one of the best innovations from Shimano. Brass gears give smoothness and enable excellent cranking power.

This low-profile reel is very compact but despite its lightweight and small size it has incredible line capacity. SLX 150 can hold 150yards of 20 lbs. braided line.

It is available in three different gear ratios, and those are 6.3:1, 7.2:1, and 8.2:1. First two are very versatile and excellent for beginners who are still learning how to handle a baitcaster.

All models have 3+1 ball bearings but those are so well made that they are more than enough to deliver excellent smoothness.

Drag is smooth and dependable, going from 11 to 12 lbs., depending on a specific model.

Casting, reeling in, and handling the reel in general works without any flaws. You can easily cast very light lures without backlashes which is extremely important for beginners.

And one important info, lube this reel before first use.

#8: KastKing Crixus

When you look at this reel it looks similar to Shimano SLX, at least when it comes to color.

Brass pinion gears, as well as the main gear, ensure longevity and you can rest assured that the reel will last for a long time.

It is available in two gear ratios, 6.5:1 and 7.2:1, which is good enough for any beginner. Carbon infused nylon frame was used to reduce weight, and although you may think that plastic components are bad, the truth is, this one is quite good. As a beginner, you don’t need high-end reels for learning purposes.

It has 7+1 ball bearings made of stainless steel and performs very smooth. Aluminum handle and polymer grips work excellent even if the reel is wet, so you will not have slippery handles and problems while reeling in.

Drag is made with 4 carbon discs, and it delivers 17.6 lbs. of drag. Magnetic breaking can be easily adjusted and has 10 different levels of breaking.

This reel comes at an excellent price, and considering all the features, it is one of the best on the market if you are looking for your first baitcaster.

#9: KastKing Rover

And the last among the best baitcasting reels for beginners is another KastKing model, the Rover.

First of all, this reel is available in various versions, from 40 to 80.

Versions 40, 50, and 60 have a gear ratio 5.3:1, version 70 has 4.2:1 and versions 80 and 80 have 3.6:1, which is very slow, but for some users this may be necessary.

Max drags go from 6.8kg/15lbs for smaller models up to 13.6kg/30lbs for larger ones.

Aluminum sideplates and brass gears make it really sturdy. Components are very well made for a reel in this lower price range, and I think that this one can last a long time.

This is a round reel, unlike the rest of those on this list. Smaller sizes have 6+1 ball bearings, while larger ones have 4+1.

These reels are quite powerful, and the drag performs great. Braking system is centrifugal, and it can take a while for a beginner to get used to it, however, when you master it, this reel will fulfill all of your needs.

Due to increased side plates, these reels are a bit heavier than the previous models, however, this is something to expect from a more powerful reel. The smallest one weights 0.32kg/11.6oz, and the largest one weights 0.64kg/22.6oz.

Those who are in a search for a larger and more powerful reel, should consider this option. However, it would be great if you had at least some experience with smaller low-profile models first.

Most Common FAQs about Baitcasting Reels:

Beginners have a lot of questions, and that is understandable. It is better to be well informed before buying a certain product.

Here I am going to answer some of those questions. Some things have already been mentioned, but I will sum it up here, in case you missed it.

What Should I Look for When Buying Baitcasting Reel?

The first thing I always mention when someone is asking about any kind of reel is to buy equipment made by reputable manufacturers.

By doing so, you know exactly what you are getting, even if you buy their low-end product.

You should also know what kind of fish do you want to catch and what lures and baits you will use, and based on that, consider the following features:

Rounded vs. Low profile

Low profile baitcasting reels are more popular, and many beginners choose this type.

It is mostly used for fish species like bass. It is easier to palm and gives you more control when you are casting.

Rounded baitcasting reels can hold more line and they are a common choice of anglers who use heavier lines. These go well with larger baits, but are harder to control.

Material

This is a bit complicated subject, and I will try to explain it in simple words.

You can choose between aluminum and graphite, and depending on it, the price can vary.

As a beginner, you may want to start with the cheaper ones, because the first baitcaster you buy will be used for practice and learning.

Aluminum is sturdier, and can handle rough use. A lot of anglers go for this option. Graphite is lighter but prone to damage. It is also cheaper.

When it comes to spool, they are mostly made from aluminum, however, high-end models use forged aluminum. Spools are frequently drilled to reduce weight.

Line guide can be ceramic, aluminum or titanium. The first ones are the cheapest, while titanium is the most expensive. Quality of course, follows the price.

Gear ratio

When choosing the best gear ratio, think about lures and fishing techniques.

Those using spinnerbaits should go for 7.1:1. Slower presentation usually done with crankbaits requires gear ratio around 5.4:1, which is on a slower side.

Medium option is 6.4:1, and that can be used in numerous situations.

Ball bearings

Quality comes before quantity.

Smaller number of well-made ball bearings is much better than a larger number of poorly done. Of course, if quality is the same, then you should go for a higher number.

Braking system

Backlashes are the biggest problem of baitcasting reels, and that is the reason why beginners avoid using them.

However, the technology is developing, and modern baitcasting reels are constructed in a way to reduce that.

Breaking system is there to slow down the spool while casting. Otherwise, the lure would slow down and the spool would keep turning.

There are different types of braking systems.

Magnetic ones use magnets to slow down the spool. You can make adjustments yourself.

Centrifugal ones use friction. To adjust it, use the pins by pushing them outwards.

Some reels even have two types of braking system. Magnetic one is great for beginners because it does not rely so much on an angler to operate.

Are Baitcasting Reels Good for Beginners?

Well, this depends. Anglers usually start with spincasting or spinning reels, to gain experience, learn different fishing techniques and learn how to handle the equipment.

Of course, at some point, you will “upgrade” to baitcasting reels. Even if you had a lot of experience before, you will still be a beginner when it comes to baitcasting reels.

However, if you know a lot about fishing, you will have just one task, and that is to practice with the reel.

If you have no fishing experience, learning about all the aspects of fishing, together with a baitcasting reel, may not be the best ide, because it is a bit too much. You will be frustrated and ruin the experience. However, if you are willing to take this step, don’t let my opinion stop you, although, I do not recommend it.

What’s the Best Gear Ratio for Baitcasting Reels?

All of the gear ratios have their advantages and disadvantages.

However, very fast and slow reels are made to be used in specific situations.

As a beginner, you should go for a medium speed, around 6.4:1.

Those reels can be used for both slower and faster presentations if you slightly adjust your technique, and can be used in numerous situations.

As a beginner, you should go for a medium option, to explore all the possibilities. Later on, you can always buy slower and faster ones, to use them when necessary.

What Lures Should I Use With Baitcasting Reels?

What lures to use depends on a reel gear ratio, fish species you are trying to catch, reel size and other factors, like your fishing rod too. However, I will give you a brief explanation.

You can use a variety of lures, including swimbaits, cranks, bigger worms, a bit larger jigs, crankbaits and many topwater lures too.

The problem is that if you are using very light lures, you may have some troubles with casting as a beginner. These reels are made to be used with heavier fishing lines and lures too.

For some presentations you will need slower reels, like when using crankbaits. Faster reels work great with jigs.

Medium gear ration enables you to use the majority of lures.

What Type of Rod Should I Use With a Baitcasting Reel?

You can’t combine just any rod with a baitcasting reel. Spinning rods are not an option.

Pair your baitcasting reel with a casting rod.

It has a reel seat made for a baitcaster, above the rod. Line guides are also on the upper side, and when fighting a fish, when the rod bends, force is applied down on the guides. If it was the other way around, like on spinning rods, large and powerful fish could break off the guides.

These rods have sturdier guides, and are made in a way to withstand larger fish, heavier lines and rough use.

For What Fish are Baitcasting Reels Used For?

Baitcasting reels are usually used for heavier and powerful fish species. Of course, you can use smaller models for smaller fish, but handling these reels and rods with light lures and lines is complicated. If you are fishing for species like panfish, use a spinning reel instead.

Baitcasters are mostly used for large catfish, large bass, muskies, Northern pike, salmon, and similar species.

Which Brand is Best in Baitcasting Reels?

As I already mentioned, and as I always say when it comes to any kind of fishing gear, buy from reputable manufacturers.

The rest is up to you and your personal needs. You may prefer one brand over another; however, all of these mentioned are known for their quality product.

Of course, how good a reel will be, depends on a price too. You can’t expect that an entry level, $40 reel, will last as long as a high-end, couple of hundred-dollar worth reel.

I think that many anglers, including me, would agree that Abu Garcia and KastKing makes really great baitcasting reels.

What are the Other Benefits of Baitcasting Reels?

Besides being able to handle large and powerful fish, baitcasters are extremely precise.

When you learn how to use them, you can cast very accurate, due to better control of the line.

You can also control how the lure falls into the water, so that you do not make a big splash and scare off the fish.

You have a better feeling of the line too, and can detect bites more easily. It also offers cranking power needed for lures with high drag.

And of course, casting of heavier lines and rules can be done much better with a baitcaster.

Conclusion

When choosing the best baitcasting reel for beginners, you should be aware of the fact that …

… it will take some time to learn how to use it, and you should choose models from a lower price range, with medium gear ratio, to gain some experience.

All of the reels mentioned here are quite good, and you will not go wrong with them.

Also, keep in mind that low-profile models are easier to use, and although backlashes will happen, it won’t be as bad as it could be with a round baitcaster.

Dual braking system is also a good feature, and you should consider all of this, and the features mentioned in the article, to choose the best reel for your needs.

If you are heading to the lake for a long day of fishing or even a multi-day trip. You are going to need a lot of bait. Bait can get expensive if you are buying it all the time. It’s much more cost effective to catch your own. Let’s figure out what a great cast net is for you.

What better way to do this than getting a great cast net. However, finding the right cast net can be overwhelming. There are so many to choose from. What’s the right size for me? What size netting do I need; for the fish I’m trying to catch?

We’re here to help you out with that. We scoured the web and found all the good, the bad, and the ugly of cast nets. We tried out a few. Picking only the top 5 that we liked and hope that you will too.

What Makes a Good Cast Net?

I’m going to try and make this as easy as possible with tables instead of 1000’s of words. Keep this one short and to the point.

Want to skip to the Top Picks Click Here

When looking for a cast net you want the material to be made of soft, hand-tied mesh netting. The hand line should be a braided polypropylene rope. All the weights should all be securely attached. The brail lines should run from the handline to the weights and be a quality heavy-duty monofilament. In other words, this thing should be as tough as it can possibly be.

You would ideally want something that is not going to mark up the boat deck. So a coating over any metal areas, the horn. A heavy duty swivel at the neck, and aerodynamic so it flies through the air and you get that beautiful perfect circle.

Diagram of a Cast Net

Cast nets do come in various sizes, styles, and shapes, making them ideal for all types of bait fishing scenarios. I highly recommend checking with state and local Department of Natural Resources about rules and regulations before just throwing a line out.

Here is a link for ODNR (Ohio Department of Natural Resources) fishing regulations.

If you want to learn more about cast nets see my previous post

Cast Nets: The Ultimate Guide to Becoming an Expert at Fishing with a Net

How to Find the Right Size Cast Net

Net Size & Mesh Size

Weight

Material

I know I said I was going to just have tables, but this one needs some more explination.

Monofilament

As the name implies, the monofilament is made up of a single thread. Typically made with nylon. This is a more transparent netting, making it harder for the fish to spot as it sinks into the water. However, it is not as strong as the rest of the materials, making it susceptible to tearing and stretching. The material is not as easy on your hand when emptying your catch.

Multifilament

The Multifilament netting or nylon multifilament is made up of several stands of monofilament. It is either twisted or braided together. Making it stronger than monofilament. This material is still very light and flexible. It has a higher visability in clear water, but can be dyed any color. The mateiral typically does not float, making it more prone to picking up debris (grass, sticks, leaves).

Polyethylene

Polyethylene is a super soft plastic material. It is more flexible than most nettings, holds up in cold weather, and more resistant to cracking than other netting materials. This material is one of the most widely used plastics on the planet (2024). It floats and is very resistant to UV-rays.

Braided Dyneema

This is considered to be one of the strongest materials in the world today (2024). Manufactured exclusively at a Netherlands based company. On a molecular level it is stronger than steel. It’s a super light, an ultra strong fiber, that can also float on water. Making ideal for a heavy duty fishing net in deep water, for hauling in large species.

Types

Disclaimer: These are affiliate links. Meaning I get a kickback if you click the link and purchase the item. This does not add any additional cost to you. This is a service that we provide, with researching and trying out different types of cast nets.

Okay… now that is out of the way.

5 Best Rated Cast Nets

Our Picks for Best Cast Nets and Why

Best Overall Cast Net: Bait Buster Professional Grade Cast Net

Features:

• Patented Dragon Head swivel makes it easy to replace brail lines
• Weight: 1.5 pounds per foot
• Dimensions: 3/8 inch mesh – available in 5ft, 6ft, 7ft, 8ft, 9ft, 10ft, 12ft
• Material: 0.28mm 100 pound test green monofilament
• Comes with it’s own bucket for easy storage

Pros:

• Great for cast in shallow water
• Durable for monofilament
• Easy hand line retrieval
• Good for beginners and pro’s
• Sinks fast
• Green color doesn’t spook fish
• Comes with a bucket
• Weights are crimped in the line to prevent sliding
• Dragon Head swivel

Cons:

• Doesn’t always open fully
• More expensive than other alternatives
• Weights are barrel shaped, not round as advertised

Best Small Bait Cast Net: Betts Old Salt Premium Cast Net

Features:

• Weight: 1 pound per foot
• Dimensions: 3/8 inch mesh, comes in 3.5 foot to 10 foot
• Material: Monofilament

Pros

• Great for begginers
• Has the ideal 1 pound per foot weight ratio
• Weights are crimped into the line
• Oval weights
• Ideal for shallow water
• Long retrieval line
• Comes with a utility box

Cons

• No hand loop
• Retrieval line is slippery
• Not ideal for deep water
• Catches debris
• Rip and pull easily

Best Variety Cast Net: Goture American Cast Net

Features

• Weight: 3/4lb per foot
• Dimensions: 3/8 inch or 1/2 inch mesh, available in 4ft, 8ft, 10ft, or 12ft
• Material: Copolymer monofilament
• 30ft braided hand line
• Handle and wrist loop for retrieval

Pros

• Lots of variety in mesh size and net size
• Good for beginners and pros
• Long durable hand line
• Easy to grip handle
• Environmentally friendly sinkers
• Durable monofilament
• Good for any size bait

Cons

• No brail lines
• Easily tangles
• Loose perimeter lines
• Horn can easily come apart
• Bucket not included

Best Beginner Cast Net: Ahi USA 50 Monofilament Cast Net

Features

• Weight: 3/4 pounds per foot
• Dimensions: 3/8 inch mesh, available in sizes from 3 feet to 0 feet
• Material: UBE monofilament, 80 pound test brail lines
• 24 foot handline
• Handline swivel

Pros

• Good for shallow to medium water (3-6 feet)
• Works for beginners and experienced throwers
• High size variety
• Chip resistant weights
• Strong brail lines
• Comes with a bucket
• Hard for fish to see

Cons

• Slow sinking
• Hand line gets slippery
• Catches debris easily
• No ideal for deep water

Best Budget Cast Net: FiTech Super Spreader Cast Net

Features

• Weight: 3/4lb per foot
• Dimension: 1/4 inch or 3/8 inch mesh, comes in a variety of sizes 3ft to 12ft
• Material: 80lb test brail lines, clear monofilament
• Komfort Kuff

Pros

• Great for any level caster
• Size variety
• 20ft braided poly hand line
• Triple-tied lead line
• Velcro Komfort Kuff wrist strap
• Ideal for shallow water
• Comes with a utility box

Cons

• Slow sinking
• Hand line gets slippery
• Easily tangles
• Picks up a lot of debris

Final Thoughts

The bottom line is there are a ton of cast nets on the market. While all of these nets, if used properly, will catch fish. There are significant difference in every net on the market today. You do need to pay attention to the size of the net, the size of the mesh, the weight per foot, and how deep are you trying to catch bait fish in. Choose a design that meets your needs and your budget.

Happy Fishing

Ravin released the R26 as their most compact crossbow in 2019. With an ultra-narrow width of just 5.75 inches when cocked and only a total length of 26 inches, the R26 is a compact yet very powerful crossbow that shoots arrows at 400 FPS!

Ravin Crossbows is one of the best crossbow manufacturers. Ravin has been dominating the crossbow market for a long time together with TenPoint, Excalibur and Barnett. Ravin has designed some revolutionary new features like the HeliCoil technology, Versa-Draw cocking system, Trac-Trigger firing system and a frictionless flight-system. Ravin’s R29X, R29X Sniper and R29 sniper models also feature a fully integrated Silent Cocking System.

The R26 Ravin crossbow has a completely new frictionless flight-system so that the arrow does not make contact with the rail! Together with their HeliCoil technology, this ensures high speeds and high accuracy. This crossbow works with a cocking mechanism that is very safe and easy to use. Because of all of these amazing features, this crossbow can be used by everyone!

Ravin R26 Compact 400 FPS Crossbow Features

Extra Features

Ravin managed to make the R26 the most compact and lightweight crossbow currently on the market, still feature an amazing number of high-tech features and reach speeds of over 400 feet per second!

Ravin’s R26 features HeliCoil technology, Versa-Draw cocking system with an ambidextrous removable draw handle, Trac-Trigger firing system, frictionless flight-system and a premium 100-yard Illuminated scope from Ravin themselves.

Size and Weight

With just 9.25 inches wide when cocked and 5.75 inches wide uncocked and just a total length of 26 inches, the Ravin R26 is the most compact crossbow we’ve ever got to shoot. Even though it’s a very compact crossbow and only has a power stroke of 9.5 inches, the Ravin R26 can still shoot arrows at blistering speeds.

The R26 is also a very lightweight crossbow, only 6.5 lbs.! It feels really well balanced, not nose-heavy at all. Ravin did a fantastic job at making this a compact and lightweight crossbow.

Speed and Arrows

Ravin advertises the R26 as a 400 feet per second crossbow. We wanted to test this out, because it’s so compact and lightweight that we thought it’d be impossible to reach the 400 feet per second with the crossbow pre-assembled, pre-tuned and sighted by Ravin.

We were amazed at reading the speeds of the R26 on our ProChrono chronograph. 407, 405 and 411 feet per second! That’s even higher than advertised by Ravin.

Ravin supplies 6 Ravin 20-inch, 400 grain, match-grade arrows with field tips. The field tips weigh 100 grains, the carbon arrows 300 grains. Usually the arrows that are provided with certain crossbows are just either too lightweight or straight up garbage. We think that the 400 grain arrows that Ravin delivers with the R26 are perfect.

These arrows have Ravin-engineered polymer nocks. Make sure the nock actually “clicks” into the string. If you didn’t properly load the crossbow, the trigger will not move into firing position.

WARNING: DO NOT USE NON-RAVIN ARROWS OR NOCKS WITH YOUR RAVIN CROSSBOW.

Scope

Ravin installed a 100 Yard Illuminated Scope on the Ravin R26. The scope measures 8.75 inches and has a variable speed and arrow drop compensation setting. The scope has 9 dots calibrated for 20 to 100 yards. It’s a perfect scope for crossbows that shoot 400 feet per second. The scope is tested to be fog-proof, weatherproof, shockproof, and recoil-proof.

Assembling and Disassembling

Ravin ships the R26 fully assembled and pre-tuned. You’ll only have to level the scope. To level the scope, we highly recommend you to get a Ravin Scope level. You can use this Ravin scope level for the R26, R29 and R29X crossbows.

Ravin designed the R26 to be easily carried with you in the field. It has 3 locations where you can attach the Ravin Backpack or shoulder slings.

At this price we really expected a crossbow case included with the package, there isn’t. You can either buy a Ravin soft case separately for around $150 on Amazon or on Ravincrossbows.com for $159.99.

If you’re thinking about getting the R26 crossbow with a crossbow case, you’re better off getting the Ravin R26 Predator Hunter’s Crossbow Bundle. It’s only around $100 more on Amazon and you’ll be getting the case and a Ravin Crossbows hat extra.

Cocking

One of the main features a Ravin crossbow sports is the built-in cocking mechanism with removable draw handle. Ravin patented it as the Versa-Draw™ Cocking System. With this cocking mechanism you’ll only need about 12 lbs. of force to fully cock the crossbow.

You can remove the draw handle and it’s possible to attach it on both sides of the stock. Unlike with TenPoint’s ACUdraw PRO or ACUslide you can not let go of the handle mid-crank.

While cocking the R26 is something to get used to, it’s also not the most silent way to cock a crossbow. Ravin’s R29X, R29X Sniper and R29 sniper models can also silently cock the crossbow.

We highly recommend to watch Ravin’s instructional video on how to cock the Ravin R26.

Shooting and Trigger

Ravin equipped the R26 with a Trac-Trigger firing system. The TTFS slides along the rail to catch the string, when the string is secured to the TTFS the safety and anti-dry fire will automatically engage.

The trigger mechanism works together with the TTFS. When you’ve properly cocked and loaded in an arrow, the trigger mechanism should automatically engage. If the trigger mechanism doesn’t engage, you’ve probably not loaded the arrow correctly. Make sure you hear a click when you load the arrow.

Ravin states in their manual that the trigger pull should be around 4.0 pounds. We tested this and actually came out at around 2.5 pounds.

The R26 is compact, lightweight and when you first look at it, you’ll probably think it’s a toy… We thought the same. After picking it up and shooting it, the toy-feeling instantly disappears. Ravin installed an ergonomic grip which makes this crossbow feel really good and well balanced in your hands. It’s very accurate and the amount of power from such a compact crossbow is just ridiculous.

Package Contents

The Ravin R26 comes fully assembled and pre-tuned. Included with your Ravin R26 crossbow package is the following:

• Ravin R26 Crossbow
• 100 Yard Illuminated Scope
• 3-Arrow Quiver and Quiver Bracket
• 6-Pack 400-Grain .003 Match Grade Arrows and Field Points
• Accessories Bracket
• Instruction Manual

Conclusion

Ravin managed to deliver a crossbow that’s very fast, yet compact and full of high-tech features. For smaller people, the Ravin R26 might be the best option right now. We were really hoping that Ravin would upgrade their cocking system so you can let go mid-crank just like with TenPoint’s ACUslide.

This is still an exceptional crossbow and you can’t find anything like it on the market today!

If you’re looking for a cocking mechanism that allows you to let go mid-crank, we would recommend you to take a look at our TenPoint crossbow reviews.

For outdoor enthusiasts, nighttime wildlife watching can be an unforgettable experience. It offers them unique insights into the world of nocturnal creatures. To make the most of these adventures, having the right gear is crucial – and night vision goggles are a must-have!

Here are ten compelling reasons why investing in night vision goggles is a crucial for thrill-seeking individuals who want to enhance their nighttime wildlife watching experience:

Enhanced visibility

Night vision goggles amplify the available light. They make it easier to see in low-light conditions. This improved visibility is crucial for spotting nocturnal animals that might remain hidden.

Safety 

Exploring the great outdoors at night can be risky. This is especially true if you are unfamiliar with the terrain. Night vision goggles help you navigate your surroundings more confidently, reducing the likelihood of accidents or getting lost in the dark.

See unique animal behavior

Many species are more active at night, and they showcase interesting behaviors that aren’t visible during the day. With night vision goggles, you will have the chance to witness these fascinating nocturnal activities up close.

Minimal disturbance

Unlike flashlights or headlamps, night vision goggles don’t emit bright light that could scare off animals. Using goggles allows you to observe wildlife in a more natural setting without disturbing them.

Extended observation time

Equipped with night vision goggles, you can continue your wildlife watching well into the evening. This increases your chances of encountering a wider variety of species.

Better photography and videography

If you’re passionate about capturing wildlife through your camera lens, night vision goggles can help you achieve amazing results. They make spotting and tracking animals in low-light conditions a lot easier. This gives you more opportunities for unique and captivating shots.

Educational insights

Night vision goggles can deepen your understanding of the natural world. With this, you will learn more about the habits and behaviors of nocturnal animals. This knowledge can be particularly valuable for students, educators, or anyone passionate about wildlife.

Versatile equipment

Night vision goggles are useful for outdoor activities beyond wildlife watching, such as hiking, fishing, or stargazing.

Tips for Choosing the Perfect Night Vision Goggles

To achieve the best possible experience while observing nocturnal wildlife, it’s important to invest in the proper night vision goggles.

The following are some tips on how to find the perfect pair:

1. Determine the generation – night vision goggles come in different generations, each offering varying performance levels. While Generation 1 devices are more affordable, they provide lower image quality than their Generation 2 and 3 counterparts. Take into account your needs and budget when deciding.
2. Check the image quality – look for goggles that provide a clear, sharp image with good resolution and minimal distortion. High-quality optics are essential for a satisfying wildlife watching experience.
3. Assess the field of view – a wider field of view allows you to see more of your surroundings, making it easier to spot and track animals. Consider goggles with a larger field of view for a more immersive experience.
4. Evaluate the battery life – longer life means more time spent enjoying the nocturnal world without interruption. Look for night vision goggles with an efficient power source and replaceable batteries.
5. Examine durability and weather resistance – the great outdoors can be unpredictable, so choosing goggles that can withstand the elements is important. Opt for a durable, weather-resistant design to ensure your goggles perform well in various conditions.
6. Read review – before purchasing, read reviews from other users to understand the product’s performance and reliability better – look for testimonials from people who have used the goggles for nighttime wildlife watching to ensure they meet your needs.
7. Compare prices – night vision goggles can vary significantly, so finding a pair that offers the best value for your budget is important. Research and compare models and brands to find the best deals.
8. Consult experts – if you need help deciding which night vision goggles to choose, seek advice from knowledgeable sources. This can include professionals in the field, experienced wildlife watchers, or customer service representatives from reputable companies like https://nightflightconcepts.com/.

Bonus: 5 Quick Tips for Successful Nighttime Wildlife Watching with Night Vision Goggles

As a bonus, we’ve compiled a list of five handy tips to ensure a successful nighttime wildlife watching experience with your night vision goggles.

These quick pointers will help you make the most of your nocturnal adventures:

1. Familiarize yourself with your goggles – understand the features and settings of your night vision goggles to ensure a smooth wildlife watching experience.
2. Plan around the moon and weather – schedule your outings during darker moon phases and be mindful of weather conditions that may affect animal behavior.
3. Research local wildlife – study the animals native to the area you’re exploring to know their habitats, behaviors, and unique features.
4. Practice patience and stealth – wait quietly for the perfect moment to observe animals, and move silently to avoid disturbing them or their environment.
5. Utilize all your senses – listen carefully for sounds that can provide clues about nearby wildlife, and rely on your sense of touch and smell to navigate and detect changes in your surroundings.

Final Thoughts

Night vision goggles are invaluable for campers seeking to experience the fascinating world of nocturnal wildlife. By investing in a quality pair of goggles and following the tips, you will be well-prepared to embark on unforgettable nighttime adventures.

So, gear up, venture into the night, and discover the hidden wonders of wildlife that come alive after the sun sets. Happy wildlife watching!