William W (Bill) Gabbard

What is the best caliber for deer hunting?

This question has been discussed over campfires, in hunting camps, and during Monday morning quarterbacking sessions for ages! I watched two co-workers nearly ruin a good friendship over the difference in a 243 Winchester and a 6MM Remington. A fellow that I used to work with had a 264 Winchester Magnum named “Big Joe” that in his mind was the only viable caliber for deer hunting.

When I started deer hunting in the 1970s, most of my friends either used a 30-06 or a 30-30. A few folks used a 243 Winchester (the smallest caliber that was legal for deer hunting in Kentucky at that time), a couple of fellows that I knew used a 270 Winchester, and one guy used a 280 Remington. The guy with the 280 handloaded because of the limited availability of ammo. Back then, no one that I knew used a “magnum” anything for deer hunting. Magnums were what those folks that went out west used!

Boy how times have changed! When I began this article, I asked many friends of mine who deer hunt what caliber they used and why they thought it was the best. The variety of calibers used has expanded greatly in the last 40 years. Just from my friends and family, the list now goes from 222 Remington to 300 Remington Ultra Magnum. I personally have killed deer with rifles ranging from 204 Ruger to 300 Win Mag. The reasons for this change are many and could possibly be an article all its own, but let’s look at what hunters are using now and why. Keep in mind that I am not attempting to cover every caliber available, so if I miss your favorite, let us know what it is and why it’s your favorite.

204 Ruger

While this round will kill deer, is exceptionally accurate, and has almost no recoil, I cannot recommend it for deer hunting. The bullets are just a little too light and not constructed heavily enough to hold together for clean consistent kills.

222 Remington

Henley McIntosh, a cousin of mine, loves this round and has killed several deer with it. But again, due to the light bullets in most factory ammo, I would only recommend it in the hands of a competent marksman.

223 Remington

Randy Bryant, Vice President of the local Sportsman’s Club and competitive shooter, is a big fan of the 223 using heavy bullets in an AR style rifle. He is hunting at fairly close ranges and is a great shot. Bullet selection is critical if using the 223 for deer hunting.

243 Winchester

More than one of the folks surveyed said that this is their number one choice for deer. Ashley Sandlin, local Deputy Sherriff, said that it kills good, doesn’t kick, and that her kids love to borrow it when they go hunting. Henley Mcintosh stated that this was probably the best all-around caliber because of lack of recoil, accuracy, and all the energy is used up in the deer. My brother, my granddaughter (Maddi Mastin) and lots of other folks mentioned 243 in their answer.

244/6mm Remington

Very similar to the 243 Winchester but limited availability of factory ammo is an issue.

257 Roberts

A wonderful caliber for deer but hardly anyone in my circle of friends even mentioned it. A good friend of mine who passed away a few years ago loved this caliber for its accuracy and lack of recoil. Limited supply of readily available factory ammo is a shortfall.

25-06 Remington

Another old classic that seems to be getting passed by these days has great accuracy, light recoil, and great long-range capabilities. Trish Bishop has tried different calibers but keeps coming back to her 25-06.

6.5 Grendel

Jon Allen of Nighthawk Tactical Solutions uses the Grendel on hogs and is planning to deer hunt with it this year. Jon says accuracy (which I must back him up on), almost no recoil, as well as dramatic kills have him excited about this caliber. My granddaughter Maddi is already eyeing my bolt-action Grendel. The growing supply of ammunition, and choices of types of bullets and the ability to use AR style rifles as well as bolt guns are all positives for the Grendel.

6.5 Creedmoor

The Creedmoor has taken the hunting world as well as the shooting world by storm. While none of my folks surveyed have taken a deer with this caliber, at least four said that they are planning to use it this year. Most are citing accuracy, long-range capabilities, and light recoil as their reason. Gun-Nut Dustin Cooper has killed deer with 243, 270, 30-06 and 300 Win Mag and said, “I just want to see what it does on a big ol buck.”

260 Remington

Mike Gross, custom gun builder and competitive shooter, uses a Model 7 Remington in 260. Light recoil, incredible accuracy and “drop in their tracks” kills are his reasons.

264 Winchester Magnum

I must mention the 264 out of respect to my friend Dexter Evans, as it is the only caliber he recognizes. As far as I know, the Remington Sendero SF II is the only production rifle currently available, and factory ammo is limited.

270 Winchester

This long-time favorite was mentioned by several folks. The 270 has been available as a factory round since 1925 and is showing no signs of letting up. Extremely accurate, incredible kills, long-range capabilities, manageable recoil, incredible variety, and ready availability of factory ammunition are on its long list of attributes. It is available in bolt action, pump, semi-auto and even lever action rifles.

7mm-08 Remington

The cross between a 243 and a 308 the 7mm-08, offers an incredible array of possibilities. This caliber has a tremendous following and for good reason. Paul Johnson mentioned the amount of versatility in tailoring loads, lack of recoil, incredible accuracy and great knock-down power. Carl Cooper laid down his 300 Win Mag for the 7mm-08 because of the lighter recoil and plans to never look back because of the killing power of the little round. Phyllis Cornett likes it because of the accuracy and lack of recoil. Mossy Oak’s Walt Gabbard said, “It is still hard to beat the 7mm-08.”

280 Remington

While the 280 has never seen the commercial success that the 270 Win has, most gun writers agree that it is ballistically superior to the 270. Factory ammo is available with bullets ranging from Norma’s 125 gr to Remington’s 165 gr. The availability of ammo from online and big box outdoor stores are just a few of the reasons that this great caliber is staying alive.

7mm Remington Magnum

This is the caliber that a many choose when they first get a case of “Magnum Fever.” The choices in factory ammo are staggering as are the options in building a suitable handload. The 7mm, as most folks call it, is accurate and hard hitting making it a favorite. When Walt Gabbard was 14, he got his first case of “Magnum Fever” when he killed an 8-point buck. Its only drawback is that with a poorly designed or ill-fitting rifle stock, the 7mm Rem Mag can be a little bit uncomfortable to shoot.

30-30 Winchester

The 30-30 was one of the most popular calibers around years ago and it is still hanging in there. However, based on my small sample of local hunters, not nearly as many folks use it now. Retired U.S. Army Colonel Brad Turner is still a fan though. Col. Turner stated that where he hunts 100 yards is a long shot and the 30-30 still drops them in their tracks!

308 Winchester

The 308 is one of the most popular calibers around, and there are plenty of reasons. Accuracy, long-range capabilities, good knock-down, manageable recoil, an incredible array of choice for factory loaded ammo as well as an almost endless list of components for the hand loader are just a few. The 308 is available in bolt, pump, lever, and single shot as well semi-auto rifles. Sheriff Kelly Shouse quickly replied 308 when asked what his favorite deer caliber was, an answer that was echoed by his son Hunter, as well as Benny Gabbard and his son Ben. Several others mentioned it as their second choice.

30-06

The old 30-06 has been around since 1906 and is still extremely popular. Several people mentioned it as their all time favorite or as their second choice. Availability of ammo, knockdown power, and just about any style of rifle being available are among the first attributes listed for the 06. Its only drawback can be recoil if it is in an ill-fitting stock.

300 Winchester Magnum

You might be surprised by the number of hunters that use the 300 as their primary deer rifle. An exceptional round for long range, it gives no quarter in performance on whitetail. When paired with the proper rifle and proper bullet weight the 300’s main drawbacks would be recoil and that a fairly long barrel is required to maximize its performance. Gary Deaton, Mike Gabbard and Hank Patton, all accomplished deer hunters, can usually be seen carrying well-worn 300 Win Mags that they are very comfortable with. Patton said, “I just love watching them smack the ground at the drop of the hammer, no tracking involved.” 300 Remington Ultra Magnum

Only one of my friends uses this caliber. Jamie Thomas said that hands down this is his favorite. “It flat kills – no tracking, no chasing. I pull the trigger and the game is over!” Limited selection of factory ammo and recoil are the only two downsides to this caliber.

This article is not a scientifically researched article quoting feet per second and foot pounds of energy retained at specific distances. It is a collection of observations calling on the knowledge of experienced and successful deer hunters. Each of the hunters that I have discussed here fits this description. Some of them have been deer hunting for more than 50 years, while some are new to the sport. So my conclusion to the best caliber of deer hunting is the caliber your centerfire rifle with properly constructed bullets will shoot comfortably. It is every hunter’s responsibility to be familiar with and know the capabilities and limitations of their rifle in order to become proficient with it.

Oh, and to the guy in the back there asking, “Hey Bill what do you use,” I always put a lot of thought into what I am going to hunt with, accuracy, energy, my comfort level with the rifle and for the past 12 years here in Kentucky, I reach in the vault and pull out the same rifle. An old Remington 700 chambered in 7mm Weatherby Magnum. Nobody else I know hunts with one, but it shoots 0.3 in groups with my handloads, just fits me, recoil is not an issue and results on the other end are incredible!

Most of us omnivores eschew turkey tendons, the elastic strands that get in the way of a forkful of pure dark- or light-meat delight. For a team of Brown University researchers, however, these dinner discards are providing some new insights into how our bodies move and protect important muscle fibers.

High-impact activities, such as hiking down a mountain, can be hard on our muscles, as the hard shock of landings damages fibers (fascicles) during descent.

Muscles, however, are not acting alone, it turns out. “We used to think that all of the motion of the body could be explained from the action of our muscle motors,” Thomas Roberts, an associate professor of biology at Brown and co-author of the study, said in a prepared statement. “It is becoming increasingly apparent that springy tendons are a big part of what makes us go.” And what help us stop, according to the new turkey research, published online Tuesday in Proceedings of the Royal Society B.

Turkeys happen to have a similar muscle and tendon structure in their legs as humans do, even though their knees bend the opposite way. So the researchers dropped half a dozen wild turkeys (Meleagris gallopavo) and used high-speed sensors and cameras to observe their landings. How do you drop a 9.5-pound turkey, scientifically? The birds were placed in harnesses, lifted 1.5 meters into the air and then released (a height from which, the researchers noted, “the animals were able to land safely, repeatedly in a controlled fashion”). Foil strain gauges glued to turkey’s tendons were used to measure changes in muscle fibers 1,000 times a second via sonomicrometry.

The turkey landing data suggested that tendons can protect surrounding muscle fibers by taking in a good portion of the initial energy from a hard landing—then releasing it back to surrounding muscles more slowly.

“Something has to take up the slack, and it falls to the tendon,” Nicolai Konow, a postdoctoral research in ecology and evolutionary biology at Brown, and paper co-author, said in a prepared statement.

The process of landing turns out to be similar to what we already know about how the tendons and muscles work together to take off for a jump. When a person—or domestic fowl—jumps up, the power initially generated by the muscle is, in part, stored by the tendon, which provides the quick-release burst of energy. Just the opposite happens upon landing to dissipate the energy, the new findings suggest: “Power attenuation is similar to the familiar mechanisms of power amplification,” the research team wrote in their study. “In both cases, the tendon allows a separation in time of the muscular event and the movement event.” On the turkeys’ landings, the muscle fibers stiffened against the impact, sending energy to the tendon, which then released it some 2.4 times more slowly back to the muscle fibers.

The findings could have an impact, so to speak, on reconstructive tendon surgery as well as sports training, where the results might come as somewhat of a shock. After all, tendons are often thought of as the vulnerable links, owing in part to the major problems they can cause if they snap (think of poor Achilles). But perhaps we can think of the tendons as protectors, too. “We can say that in real ways, the muscle has a safety net with the tendon there protecting it,” Konow said.

If your doggo loves to swim, a dog ramp is a must accessory for your boat! Be it taking your dogs out for a good time, a swim, or hunting, you’d definitely want to make their experience as comfortable and safe for them, wouldn’t you?

As much as you love your pet, it will definitely hurt your pocket to spend money on commercial dog ramps. The good news is that you can DIY your dog a functional boat ramp using affordable supplies all by yourself. And, the love and care you put into the DIY process is an added bonus!

Okay, so where do you start? You start by selecting a trustworthy tutorial for you to replicate. Here are 15 brilliant DIY dog ramps for boat ideas for you to choose from!

1. DIY Floating Boat Ramp Pool Ramp or Dock Ramp for Dogs

In this Youtube tutorial, Jennifer Turner elaborates to you on how she DIYed a floating boat ramp for her doggo for under $100. The supplies this DIY requires are two anti-fatigue mats, jumbo noodles, zip ties, and a nylon rope.

For those interested, this is the first part of the tutorial, and in this second part, she shares heartwarming footage of her dog getting used to its new homemade dog ramp.

2. Dog boat ladder instructions.

Cocozoo has shared a fantastic idea of building a dog ladder for a boat. He used 1.5’’ ABS pipe and a pine board for the purpose of this DIY. He further mentions that you can use a 1’’ pipe if your doggo weighs relatively lighter.

You might have plenty of queries regarding this project, don’t you? To your rescue, the user has even shared a plan along with his build experience. All your queries will most likely be answered there!

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3. DIY Dog Ramp

Internet is truly a fantastic place! Here’s another forum on DUCKhunting Chat where the user named Honkin shares his dog ramp build details with the rest of the users.

He used a 1’’X6’’ aluminum tubing with 12 inches inside diameter for the frame and a 12’’X12’’ interlocking sport court for the decking.

The reviews on this thread are rave. If you follow this idea, please let us know in the comments how did it work out for you.

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4. How to build a DIY Pet Ramp Start to Finish – Includes complete Drawings and Instructions!

Follow this DIY tutorial by James Mark Konstruction to build a dog ramp that helps your dog to climb up and down not only a boat but any other raised surfaces such as a car, couch, or bed.

Luckily, this tutorial features all the drawings, plans, and step-by-step instructions for this DIY project. Also, if you’d like to read a written instruction, the Youtuber has shared the drive link in the comment section. Hope it helps!

5. DIY DOCK & BOAT RAMP FOR DOGS

5 pool noodles, 2 anti-fatigue floor mats, 42 plastic zip ties, 2 big carabiners, and 6 feet rope – these are the supplies you need to build a brilliant DIY dock and boat ramp for dogs.

If you have all these supplies gathered, read this written tutorial by HALIFAX DOGVENTURES to construct the ramp.

All the steps are briefly described using documented images for your ease. This DIY looks incredible! Everyone in the comment section seems to be quite impressed by this idea.

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6. Dog Ramp for a Dock or Pool

Save hundreds of dollars on a dock or a pool dog ramp by following this easy tutorial by Eric Hurst. The Youtuber explains every step of this DIY project in detail.

He has further cleared his viewer’s confusion in the comment section and has shared more advice regarding the topic. Make sure you check them out! You might find your queries answered there.

Also, there’s a suggestion in the comment pointing out how the use of PVC instead of wood would result in a better product. What do you think of that?

7. HOW TO BUILD A DOG WATER RAMP FOR A BOAT

Are you a beginner at building a dog boat ramp? If yes, this post by Marine Waterline is perfect for you! From choosing the right material to budgeting to the description of each step in detail, you’ll find all the information you need in this blog.

Marine Waterline further has a range of amazing blogs and DIYs on boating, fishing, kayaking, and a variety of water sports. Do check them out if you’re into such stuff!

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8. Hobie Tandem Island DIY Dog Ramp by Rockin Robin Sails

Rubber mats, PVC, and life jackets – if you have these supplies handy with you, here’s the perfect tutorial for you! This dog ramp is two-layered, where the bottom level stays below the water surface, making it easy for your doggo to climb.

Especially if you own a Hobie Tandem Island, you need not make any changes to this DIY. Everyone in the comment section is applauding this video. Make sure you give it a watch!

9. Pool and Boat Dog Ramp Questions and Answers

If this is your first time planning to DIY a dog boat ramp, this question and answer post by Make And Build Dog Stuff will help you immensely. From DIY ideas and plans to clear some common doubts regarding the DIY, this post is a must-read for those aiming to build a boat or dock ramp for their dogs.

What’s more, this site features plenty of other useful DIY projects for proud dog parents. We guarantee it will be of great help to you!

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10. How to Make a Dog Ramp for a Pontoon Boat: 7 Ladder Ideas

This post by PONTOONopedia consists of not one but 7 brilliant DIY dog ramps for a pontoon boat idea.

From a sleek aluminum and stainless-steel metal ladder that requires professional metalworking skills to a simple DIY utilizing a rubber drainage mat and a few bungee cords, this post has covered it all!

However, remember that this is not a step-by-step DIY tutorial and, therefore, is only appropriate for those who are seeking ideas that they can bring into action.

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11. Homemade boat ladder for you and your dog (small boat)

This ingenious DIY boat ladder idea will leave you speechless! All you need is a used two-step stool, 2 hooks and 2 sets of stainless screw, nut, a few tools, and 30 minutes of work time to complete this DIY.

The hook on top of the ladder perfectly clicks with the boat hull, eliminating any need to permanently attach the ladder or a ramp to the boat, making it perfectly portable.

What’s more, this DIY is not only applicable for your dog but equally great for you when the situation demands it!

12. The Joy of Dog Boat Ramps

By now, if you’ve realized that DIYing a dog ramp is not for you and you’d rather choose to go with a commercial option, this post by Crownline is a must-read!

It features details including specifications and cost for Paws Aboard and Skamper-Ramp. Analyze the pros and cons and figure out the best dog ramp for your animal friend. We hope this blog helps!

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13. How A Duck Dog Should Ride In a Boat

While this is not a dog ramp for boat tutorial, this video by Bodie Drake surely is a must-watch for those who are always accompanied by their dog friends during their boating journey, especially if it’s a duck dog.

Watch this video to educate yourself on how you should train your duck dog to ride the boat such that they can transform into fantastic hunters. The Youtuber shares pretty solid tips and tricks in this video. Do check it out!

14. Boat Projects: Ramps For Dogs

This blog by LakeExpo not only features some of the best commercially available dog ramps but also has information on how you can DIY a dog ramp at the end of the blog.

For instance, you can use an aluminum extension ladder as a framework for the purpose. Not sure how exactly to repurpose an aluminum extension ladder into a dog ramp? Read the blog to find out!

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15. The 5 Best Dog Ramps and Ladders for Boats

While dog ramp DIYs are affordable and many of them don’t even require you to have expert handyman skills, let’s admit, some of us are definitely having conflicting thoughts on whether to DIY a dog ramp or to avoid all the efforts by simply buying a commercially available one.

Well, if you’re having second thoughts, here’s the latest list of best dog ramps and ladders available on the market.

Summary

From the idea that uses an old unused ladder to ones that use cost-effective supplies, we’ve got all types of dog ramps tutorials listed for you in this post.

We’ve further listed a few commercial dog ramps reviews for those having second thoughts. Now, the choice is yours! And in case you DIY a dog ramp, we’d definitely love to know your experience.

The Kel Tec KSG is an extremely well-known shotgun mostly for its looks and its exceptional price point.

The KelTec KSG is an extremely unique 12 gauge shotgun that provides a lot of fun and a ton of potential uses. This shotgun is a direct competitor of the IWI Tavor TS12.

About KelTec

At KelTec, they design firearms that are innovative in design and exciting to use. KelTec employs 300 American citizens – many military veterans – who come to work every day to craft unique firearms dreamed up by our team of talented engineers.

KelTec is celebrating its thirtieth year in the firearms industry. KelTec is most notably known for their very unique designs in pistols, rifles and shotguns. The design team at KelTec without a doubt has a big collective imagination.

KelTec’s Mission Statement

Our mission is to create innovative, quality firearms to help secure your world.

We believe in respect, family, the right to bear arms, and a love for our great country.

The Kel Tec KSG

The KSG for the longest time was unobtainable in the gun world. As soon as dealers got them in the shipping doors they were flying out the front (after all the appropriate paperwork had been completed).

I remember seeing the then relatively new company’s firearms in local gun shops and even handling a few on occasional trips.

I remember their pistols seemed very blocky and felt somewhat cheap in the hand, even as an inexperienced young man in the gun world.

Then I caught a glimpse of a KSG. That particular shotgun had already been sold and was awaiting pickup by the lucky new owner. I asked the salesman behind the counter if I could hold the futuristic, space-age-looking shotgun hanging on the wall.

The owner of the shop apparently overheard my request and made his way over and took the scatter gun off the wall and handed it to me after checking to make sure it was not loaded.

The very second the short shotgun was in my hands I knew I had to have one. This was the start of approximately a year and a half of trying unsuccessfully to track down one of these beasts to call my own.

While driving to see my in-laws in the neighboring county one afternoon, my wife was scrolling through Facebook and happened upon a local gun shop’s Facebook page that had just posted that they had received one of the coveted Kel Tec KSGs in stock.

Having listened to me talk about this particular shotgun for almost two full calendar years and complain every time I tracked one down but it was marked well above MSRP or bought out from under me her eyes lit up when she read the post.

She then told me what she had found and where it was located. It was in the opposite direction that we were traveling. I mumbled something under my breath and continued to drive toward my in-laws grumpier than I was when we started the journey.

The next thing I knew my wife had located the telephone number for the shop and had them on the line. She asked if the Kel Tec KSG was still available, and although I could not hear the conversation, the look on her face told me all I needed to know.

Not expecting them to hold the gun, I had my wife ask them just in case. They stated that they would in fact hold the scattergun for me to come later that evening to purchase.

After what seemed like the longest visit with the in-laws and an equally long road trip back the other direction, I finally had a KSG that was mine. Buyers remorse is real, but I can tell you that I felt no such thing after this purchase!

KelTec KSG Design

What does KSG stand for? It’s quite simple, really. KSG stands for KelTec Shotgun. A simple name for the first entry by Kel Tec into the scattergun world.

This plays perfect into the design of the Kel Tec KSG because as a pump-action shotgun it doesn’t get much simpler than that; on the surface at least.

The KSG is a 12ga, pump-action, dual magazine, bullpup design. That’s a lot to digest.

First, we will start with the action of the shotgun. There are three main types of shotguns, the first and most simple is the break barrel. This shotgun is one that you might typically see hanging over your grandpa, or great-grandpa’s fireplace.

The action of this shotgun breaks open at the rear to load and eject its shells. Typically a break barrel shotgun holds one or two rounds of ammunition, one in each barrel.

This is not always the case though as there is a current design that has three barrels and thus holds three shells at a time.

Another design that you may commonly find is a semi-automatic shotgun. This type runs either off inertia from the recoil, or gas that is siphoned off to unlock the breach and load the next round.

You might also find this type of shotgun above an old fireplace as a family heirloom or possibly a more modern iteration in the cab of a police cruiser.

The third main design bridges the technology gap between the two previously mentioned styles quite nicely.

It takes the simplicity and reliability of the break barrel and high capacity of the semi-automatic and combines the two into one package; the pump action.

A pump-action shotgun is actuated by pumping the forearm of the gun to feed, extract and eject the shells. This design is popular and is used around the world.

The design team at Kel Tec chose to make their first shotgun a pump action. They then chose to make that pump action shotgun tactical. They also made the bold choice to make their first tactical shotgun a bullpup.

Bullpup firearms seem to have a love-hate relationship in the gun industry. While most of the time they look cool and futuristic, there are several design and logistical and potential extreme safety problems to overcome.

By definition, a bullpup is any firearm whose chamber is located behind the trigger. This obviously is not an everyday occurrence.

One glaring problem with this design for the KSG is you now have the contained detonation of a shotgun shell no more than a few millimeters away from the arguably most important organ of your body. The one that thinks and makes thousands of decisions every day.

This is no light matter to consider. The folks at KelTec knew that they needed to design the receiver of the KSG to be sturdy and robust enough to handle anything that could be thrown at it.

The receiver of the KelTec KSG is made from hardened steel and is thick enough to contain any blast that may occur in the chamber. The furniture of the KSG is made from glass-reinforced polymer.

The furniture of the KSG is simple in design and functions practically. The one aspect I do not care for about the KSG furniture is the way it is attached to the gun.

KSG is known for using a clamshell-type design to cut weight and cost when manufacturing their firearms. This is no different for the KSG.

To attach each section of the clamshell, KelTec uses bolts and nuts on the opposing side that are offset into the side of the shotgun.

This detracts from the overall appearance of the scattergun and somewhat cheapens the rugged space-age look. One might even compare it to a child’s nerf gun, although it obviously is much tougher than that.

The forearm and the pistol grip is where this issue is most apparent. I wish KelTec would spend a little more time and money on this aspect of the design and make these points more solid and look more professional.

Other than the gripe with the non load-bearing aspects of this shotgun, all the rest of the construction is as solid as you can ask for.

The top rail is quality aluminum, the magazines are made from the same hardened steel that the receiver and chamber are constructed from and the stock is capped with a nice rubber pad and is much thicker than the seemingly flimsy pistol grip.

KSG Operation

As stated above, the mode of operation for the KelTec KSG is a pump action. There are similarities to other pump actions in this design.

The forearm on the KSG is wider than that of a traditional shotgun. This is because of the dual magazine tubes located underneath and parallel to each other and under the barrel.

This is noticeable when holding the shotgun, but not to the point where it is uncomfortable.

On the underside of the forearm, there is a row of picatinny rail to attach a vertical grip or hand stop. Installing one of these accessories is a good idea because as a pump-action shotgun, you have to pump the action.

If you end up pumping the action a little too hard, you may end up a few digits short after your hand slips off the front of the shotgun and into the path of the barrel.

This could be an obvious safety issue if you are not careful or cognisant of how you are operating the shotgun.

Safety

The safety of the KSG is a simple cross bolt design. This style of safety is a classic design that is easy to activate and deactivate.

The safety is clearly labeled with white paint and red paint for “safe” and “fire” respectively. While simple in design, you could accidentally activate or deactivate it on gear when the shotty is slung.

Trigger

The trigger of the KSG is made of the same glass-filled polymer that the other parts are made of. Unfortunately, this makes the trigger feel of cheap quality, but it does get the job done. The trigger pull is not horrible, it is serviceable for a combat shotgun.

I should note that there is a company that makes aftermarket parts for the KSG, one of them being an upgraded trigger. This company is MCARBO. They have a website and a YouTube channel detailing their products and installation of the same.

I feel that this is the single most needed improvement on the KSG.

Takedown of the KelTec KSG

Takedown of the KelTec KSG is interesting. After visually and physically checking to make sure the KSG is unloaded, move the magazine selector to the center of the receiver.

Next, there are two HK-style take down pins located on the bottom side of the receiver that are retained by a spring pin.

You can fully remove them when taking down the KSG for service and cleaning and KelTec designed two through holes into the pistol grip of this shotgun to hold the takedown pins so they do not end up lost in the process.

Once the takedown pins have been removed and properly stowed, lift the pistol grip section up from the rear of the receiver and rotate it toward the front of the shotgun. KelTec advises not to take this section apart any further for cleaning.

Once the pistol grip and trigger section has been removed, next you need to pull the stock out of the back of the receiver. This is accomplished by simply pulling the stock to the rear until it clears the receiver.

Next you move the forearm of the shotgun further to the rear until you can remove the bolt out of the receiver.

KelTec also advises to not take the bolt down any further that this for field strip/cleaning.

After doing these steps, you will have access to clean almost all of the KSG. If you want to remove the pump-action, you can remove the two retaining nuts at the front of the two magazine tubes.

KelTec suggests you turn the nuts in sequence of a half turn for each at a time to keep the retaining bar from binding up behind the nuts. Once these are removed you may pull the pump-action free of the frame and set it aside.

KelTec KSG Features

The KSG is only offered in one chambering, however, it is the most popular chambering for shotguns in the USA. The 12ga of the KSG means that you have all the firepower on tap that you could ever need.

The KSG comes with a removable cylinder bore choke.

This means that you can remove the factory choke and replace it with a choke tube adapter and be able to place any style choke the adapter is designed to take. This opens the possibilities of the shotgun up tremendously.

Pistol Grip

The pistol grip on the KSG is located approximately mid-way between the end of the barrel and the stock. The pistol grip is the only protrusion from this sleek scattergun.

There is checkering on the pistol grip, but it is more for aesthetics than functionality.

The trigger guard does exactly what it is intended to do. To actuate the pump of the shotgun, the slide release is located directly in front of the pistol grip and is ambidextrous.

Stock

The stock of the KSG is thick and robust. It helps that the stock is directly attached to the back of the receiver.

There is a rubber but pad that helps hold the stock in the shoulder pocket and keeps it from slipping around on clothing. It does not do much to help the recoil of the shotgun.

Magazines

Next, we have the magazines. As alluded to previously, there are dual magazines on this bullpup shotgun.

Each magazine is constructed out of hardened steel and holds 6 or seven rounds of 3” magnum shells. Yes, that’s either 12 to 14 rounds of high brass, hard hitting magnum 12ga firepower on board, pre-loaded, and ready to go.

With a 6 round Lynx Defense Shotgun Card the KSG could potentially hold up to 20 rounds (one in the chamber) of 12ga destruction on board. This is an obscene amount of ammunition to have on the shotgun itself.

Having two magazine tubes also means that you can have one mag loaded with your favorite flavor of 00 buckshot and the other full of 1oz slugs.

To choose between the two magazines all you have to do is flip the magazine selector which is located on the bottom of the receiver.

To load the KSG you have to flip the scattergun over to be able to access the magazines.

The magazines load easily enough and have individual catches to retain the shells in the magazine.

To unload each magazine, you must press the mag catch lever of each individual tube to allow the shells to bypass it and come out of the shotgun.

Sights

The rail located on the top of the KSG is solid and is made of quality aluminum. Most shotguns come with a simple bead sight or perhaps rifle-style sights if it is a rifled shotgun.

The KSG comes with neither of these but the rail allows you to place whatever sights you choose on it.

I opted to place a set of Magpul MBUS sights on my KSG. The MBUS sights allow for proper cheek weld to be able to use the sights as they were designed to be used.

Having a standard picatinny rail up top also means that you are able to place any type of red dot or holographic sight on top of the KSG. As this is a smooth bore, any quality choice of non-magnified sighting system will serve you well.

Shooting the KSG

Shooting the KSG is downright fun. Per square inch, I don’t think I possess a more powerful firearm. When the KSG is fully loaded it is a heavy beast. This weight is well balanced and because of the bullpup design, the weight is kept very close to the shooter’s body.

The balance and weight of the KSG assists greatly in recoil mitigation. That’s not to say this scattergun is a light recoiling. With full power loads you will know when you’ve pulled the trigger.

Being a pump-action, you do not have to rely on recoil from high brass rounds to cycle the action. This means that you can use reduced power or light loads in the KSG as well.

One of my all-time favorite loads to put in the KSG is the Aguila Mini shells and Mini slugs. With this loading, you can house up to 24 rounds in the twin magazines plus one making this compact shotty’s capacity just 5 rounds shy of an AR15.

Add on a Lynx Defense Shotgun card to the side of the receiver and you can add another 6 rounds contained on KelTec KSG’s frame easily eclipsing the capacity of the AR. Now that is really impressive.

Price & Models

KelTec places the MSRP (manufacturer’s suggested retail price) of the KSG currently at $900.00. This of course is just a suggestion.

These scatterguns can be found for more or less depending on the situation and simple supply and demand.

With the current political climate toward all things gun-related as it is, if you find a KSG for close to this price I’d say you’ve probably found a deal.

There are some other models and variations to the KSG that have been released through the years since the KSG first was released to the market. KelTec has a KSG25, with an overall length of 38” and a standard capacity with full power 3” shells of 25 rounds. The KSG25 has a MSRP of $1150.00.

KelTec also has two other models than that of the standard KSG and KSG25. One of these would require a tax stamp in addition to their purchase price as its shorter barrel length would make it a NFA item.

This version is called the KSG Tactical. It has a barrel length of 13.7”. The capacity of the KSG Tactical is reduced to 10 rounds of 2 ¾ “ shells. The KSG Tactical goes for around $1225.00 (plus a $200.00 tax stamp and paperwork to the federal government)

For a shotgun that only comes in at 26.1” overall length to begin with, this model seems quite trivial, and the loss of capacity puts the nail in the coffin as far as I’m concerned.

The next model that KelTec offers is the KSG Compact. The KSG Compact Keeps the overall length of the original, and the same barrel length of 18.5” but shortens the magazine tubes.

There are only two logical reasons this model exists:

1. For those states that have been allowed to tread on the freedom that the Constitution guarantees each and every one of us as US citizens and;
2. If you want to make the KSG into a SBS (short barrel shotgun) but want to take the scattergun home with you while you wait for the paperwork to come back before you chop it down to the length of the Tactical model mentioned above.

The last variation of the KSG is the KS7. The KS7 is unique as it gets a slight face lift in appearance.

The barrel length and OAL remain the same, but the KS7 loses one of its magazines, reducing its capacity to 7+1. This also means that the KS7 is a thinner and lighter package if that is important to you.

Final Thoughts

No matter which model you choose, or what kind of shells you decide to stuff in the magazine(s) of the KSG, it is next to impossible to surpass the firepower and handiness of this small scattergun.

Some have complained that the downward ejection of the shotshells can cause them to hit the wrist, but I have not experienced this over the many years and thousands of shells sent down range through my copy.

While I do think there are some areas that could be improved upon, overall the KSG is a must-have addition to any collection in my opinion.

I feel like this shotgun can fill many roles, and while I may not choose to take the KSG directly into a combat zone, it does check the “shotgun” box of home defense plans.

I believe the compactness can not be beaten and the large capacity of this shotgun is unmatched.

It is shorter and more maneuverable than a full-size AR, and more stable than a pistol. If I choose to grab a shotgun when something goes bump in the middle of the night, this is the one.

If you are in the market for a defensive shotgun the KSG is definitely a contender but be sure to weigh your options the KSG against the IWI Tavor TS 12, the Remington Tac-14, and the Benelli M4.

Learn to identify the differences between a prairie chicken and a sharp-tailed grouse.

A trio of hunters spaced out over forty yards from each other with two pointing dogs covering the large expansive prairie walked towards the horizon. The dogs were quartering back and forth as they crested an upland slope searching for scent. Suddenly the dogs began to act “birdy.” As if someone hit the pause button on the TV remote, the dogs froze in mid-stride. The hunters approached with anticipation. Shotguns were transitioned into the ready position. Grips tightened.

Suddenly, a covey of football sized and shaped birds exploded from the swaying grass. The half-dozen birds rose into the air with a series of rapid wingbeats. Underbellies appeared to be lighter in color along with unique tail appearances. These were not hen pheasants, though similar in coloration. These were prairie grouse. A volley of shots rang out from each of the three hunters. A pair of birds dropped from the blue sky.

As birds were being retrieved, a late flush thirty yards away startled the hunters. More shots rang out, breaking the silence again across the landscape. One more bird returned to the ground from where it flushed. Birds were brought to their masters. With birds in hand, it was quickly discovered that two different types of prairie fowl had been taken on the wing-a duo of prairie chickens and a sharp-tailed grouse. The two species shared several similar characteristics, from the habitat the birds were being hunted in, to the way they flushed, and even their shared physical appearances. Both birds were indeed upland cousins.

Greater prairie chickens (chickens) and sharp-tailed grouse (sharptails or sharpies), collectively referred to as prairie grouse, are closely related birds native to the prairie landscapes of Colorado, Idaho, Kansas, Minnesota, Montana, Nebraska, North Dakota (no prairie chicken season) and South Dakota, Wyoming, and Canada. Prairie grouse hunting typically occurs on large expanses of grassland, but can occur in cropland or field edges in grassland dominated landscapes. As the name implies, prairie grouse are birds of the great, wide-open spaces found in North America’s Great Plains.

These birds are usually found in coveys which tend to increase in size as the season progresses. It’s not uncommon to find prairie grouse in mixed flocks of both prairie chickens and sharptails where these species’ range overlaps. While historically there are some range overlaps between sharp-tailed grouse and greater prairie chickens, range itself is a good way to identify the species, as sharp-tailed grouse are found in a much wider geographic area than are prairie chickens.

Understanding Prairie Grouse Habitat

Habitat is critical to finding grouse out on the vast expansive prairie. Hunters should concentrate by looking for native grass with nearby croplands. This will be a paradigm shift for pheasant hunters who may lean toward thicker cover in low-lying areas. What looks like prime pheasant cover is NOT where prairie grouse will be found. The best habitat is pristine grass that looks like it did when Native Americans hunted there. Grass that is shorter than knee high is best. Any higher and the birds cannot see over it to defend themselves and observe approaching predators. These are all things to consider when finding sharp-tailed grouse habitat or prairie chicken habitat.

Prairie grouse are not likely to be found in areas where cattle have overgrazed the grass; however, it has been my experience and observation that prairie grouse will indeed remain in the area, especially if there is an established lek.

When it is hot prairie and the sun is beating down as is common during September and even into October, grouse will seek out relief and move to areas with shade, such as in taller grass, plum thickets, clumps of sumac, bushes, and tree rows. If there is dew or rain on the grass, birds will move to shorter grass or areas where they can stay dry.

Difference in Prairie Grouse Ranges

For prairie chickens, range is the easiest way to tell them apart. Greater prairie chickens can be found from Kansas, eastern Colorado, Nebraska, and on northward through the Dakotas. Sharp-tailed grouse are found in a much wider geographic area than are prairie chickens. They are found in lot more states as well as north of the border.

Identification of Prairie Grouse

Telling them apart in flight is an acquired skill. The question one must ask is, are you as a hunter able to identify which type of prairie grouse from the way it flies or its appearance in flight? What about from the type of habitat or physical attributes once birds are delivered to leather-gloved hands? In actuality there’s little practical difference visually between greater prairie chickens and sharp-tailed grouse.

The first step in any bird identification is learning to observe. Watch and listen. It will also help to think about what types of habitat are most likely to hold specific types of upland gamebirds. The availability of specific habitat types may limit where a species can be encountered.

Prairie Grouse Quirks.

Flocks of chickens and sharptails often flush in small groups, or even one-by-one when pointed or flushed by dogs. Hunters should follow up on every flush, including wild ones. With each covey rise, there’s a chance that a straggler may be holding tight. Many hunters make the mistake and assume that all the birds have flushed, thus missing an opportunity for a late riser. Even if the birds are out of shotgun range, hunters need not stand there but hustle over to the area where the birds flushed. There’s a good chance of finding a tight-sitting bird or two.

Hunters who empty their guns on the initial flush should reload quickly and be ready for straggling singles. One thing in common for both prairie chickens and sharptails is that they both chuckle like they are laughing at you when flushed!

Guide to Hunting Prairie Chickens in Kansas

Finding Sharp-Tailed Grouse Habitat

Hunting Prairie Chickens in September – The Kansas “Grouse” Opener

Reading Time: 6 minutes

Did you ever wonder what the biggest fish ever caught looked like? With all due respect to your imagination, we wouldn’t blame you for underestimating how impressive these beasts really were. Today, we’re looking at the 17 biggest fish ever caught.

For this list, we’ve only included fish that were officially approved as IGFA All-Tackle World Records. Over the years, there have been cases of people catching even bigger fish. These, however, were either caught by more than one person, or failed to meet other IGFA World Record requirements.

As you’d expect, most of these giants are from the Billfish and Shark families, but there are a few surprise entries, too.

You’ll notice that a lot of these records date back at least a few decades. Back in the day, catch and release was a rare sight, and fishing regulations weren’t nearly as strict. Still, each of the catches you’re about to see required incredible amounts of skill and dedication to pull off. They officially are the biggest fishing feats in history.

Without further ado, the 17 biggest fish ever caught are:

17. Goliath Grouper – 680 lb

Location: Fernandina Beach, FL

Date: May 20, 1961

Back in the day, Fernandina Beach was famous for its Goliath Grouper fishery. Up until 1990, anglers could harvest these critters, but with their population dwindling, regulators decided to ban their harvest. All in all, this record isn’t going anywhere anytime soon. Angler Lynn Joyner caught this 680 lb Goliath using a Spanish Mackerel.

16. Bull Shark – 697 lb 12 oz

Location: Malindi, Kenya

Date: March 24, 2001

Angler Ronald de Jager successfully caught this record-breaking Bull Shark by trolling a live Yellowfin Tuna. The catch broke the previous 1994 record by 12 ounces.

15. Dusky Shark – 764 lb

Location: Longboat Key, FL

Date: May 28, 1982

In 1982, Warren Girle pulled in this world record on a Bonito off Longboat Key, Florida.

14. Thresher Shark – 767 lb

Location: Bay of Islands, New Zealand

Date: February 26, 1983

David Hannah caught this Thresher using Kahawai Salmon. Catching a Thresher of any size requires a great deal of skill, because these monsters are known for bashing the hook and bait with their tail before moving in for the kill. This is why Hannah’s record is even more impressive.

13. Bigeye Thresher Shark – 802 lb

Location: Tutukaka, New Zealand

Date: February 8, 1981

A couple of years before David Hannah, Dianne North reeled in an even bigger Thresher. She trolled a Kahawai to hook the fish and then fought the beast for three hours and 45 minutes. What’s interesting is that the two catches occurred just over 30 miles away from each other.

12. Pacific Bluefin Tuna – 907 lb 6 oz

Location: Three Kings Islands, New Zealand

Date: February 19, 2014

Angler Donna Pascoe battled this Bluefin for over four hours, and in some very tough weather conditions. For her impressive catch, Ms. Pascoe received the IGFA Best World Record award for 2014.

11. Swordfish – 1,182 lb

Location: Iquique, Chile

Date: May 7, 1953

After more than 60 years, Lou Marron’s historic record still stands. It’s a testament to how people once used nothing but angling to catch the ocean’s most fearsome creatures. Lou caught the 14′ Swordfish by trolling a live Bonito.

10. Shortfin Mako Shark – 1,221 lb

Location: Chatham, Massachusetts

Date: July 21, 2001

Luke Sweeney caught this fearsome Mako during the Oak Bluffs Monster Shark Tournament in 2001. Luke was actually aboard the smallest boat in the tournament, a 24′ World Cat, when he broke the record. The fight lasted three hours, but ultimately, the Mako made it to the scales for weigh-ins.

9. Great Hammerhead Shark – 1,280 lb

Location: Boca Grande

Date: May 23, 2006

Charter captain Bucky Dennis usually fishes for Snook and Tarpon. However, according to him, when Tarpon come to Boca Grande, so do the Hammerheads. Bucky caught this 14.5′ Shark using a stingray for bait. The Hammerhead hauled his 23′ boat almost 12 miles out into the Gulf.

8. Sixgill Shark – 1,298 lb

Location: Ascension Island, British Overseas Territories

Date: November 21, 2002

Although you can find them worldwide, Sixgilled Sharks just aren’t fish you see everyday. Angler Clemens Rump caught this shark off the remote Ascension Island, in the middle of the Atlantic.

7. Pacific Blue Marlin – 1,376 lb

Location: Kaaiwi Point, Kona, Hawaii

Date: May 31, 1982

Trolling a kita lute, angler Jay de Beaubien managed to catch this Pacific Blue Marlin in under an hour! Jay’s record nearly fell in 2015, when an angler caught a 1,376 lb Blue Marlin off the very same Hawaiian coast.

6. Atlantic Blue Marlin – 1,402 lb 2 oz

Location: Vitoria, Brazil

Date: February 29, 1992

Fishing off Vitoria, Brazil angler Paulo Amorim caught this grander trolling a Molecraft lure.

5. Atlantic Bluefin Tuna – 1,496 lb

Location: Aulds Cove, Nova Scotia, Canada

Date: October 26, 1979

Nova Scotia is famous for its Bluefin Tuna fishery. Bluefins are much more strictly regulated these days, but regardless, Ken Fraser’s 1979 record still seems almost unbeatable.

4. Black Marlin – 1,560 lb

Location: Cabo Blanco, Peru

Date: August 4, 1953

Angling legend Alfred C. Glassell Jr. caught this enormous Black Marlin way back in 1953, making it one of the longest-standing IGFA World Records to date. This Marlin, along with a number of other fish Glassell caught, comprise a permanent exhibit in the Houston Museum of Natural Science.

3. Greenland Shark – 1,708 lb 9 oz

Location: Trondheimsfjord, Norway.

Date: October 17, 1987

Using a herring as bait, Norwegian angler Terje Nordvedt caught one of the biggest Sharks ever. This was one of the rare times people could see the longest living vertebrae on dry land. These sharks often live longer than 400 years!

2. Tiger Shark -1,785 lb 11 oz

Location: Ulladulla, Australia

Date: March 28, 2004

This record is a little controversial. When Kevin J. Clapson weighed his enormous Tiger shark in 2004, he thought he broke a 40-year-old record. However, since his catch was only 11 ounces heavier than Walter Maxwell’s catch from 1964, the ruling was that the record was tied.

1. White Shark – 2,664 lb

Location: Ceduna, Australia

Date: April 21, 1959

Alfred Dean’s 1959 record is by far the biggest fish ever caught and approved by the IGFA. Great White Sharks are a protected species almost everywhere these days, so it seems that Dean’s record is here to stay.

All of the catches on this list represent incredible feats by some of the best anglers on earth. With today’s conservation-oriented regulations, most of these won’t be broken any time soon. But that’s a not a bad thing – we’ll have more of these incredible creatures roaming the oceans for years to come. Besides, we’ll always have lists like this one to remind us of how impressive these beasts really are.

Your turn. Which of the catches on our list is the most impressive in your mind? Which of these records do you think anglers will break first? Let us know in the comments below.

Bay of Green Bay, Michigan/Wisconsin

This diverse habitat that holds a good number of fish and plenty of 30-inch-class walleye, with the action picking up in mid-summer. This is a big fishery with weed edges on the west shoreline, rock bars on the east, and many islands and shoals that hold fish. This diversity means a variety of presentations where trolling or casting for big fish, can be successful. Good launch points include Oconto on the west side and Egg Harbor to the east, depending on the direction of the wind.

Lake Erie, Ohio

Port Clinton, Ohio, is called the “Walleye Capital of the World” for good reason. It’s the main access point to the tremendous walleye fishery in the western basin of Lake Erie, which may hold more walleye per acre than any body of water on Earth. In early season locals jig fish for spawning males, but July is traditionally the hottest month of the season with a strong casting bite on reefs and consistent limit catches when trolling in open water. The action starts to slow by mid-August.

Lake of the Woods, Minnesota/Ontario/Manitoba

Head for the border if it’s a trophy walleye you’re after. “You will always have a chance to catch a legitimate 10-pound walleye on Lake of the Woods,” said Thelen. “It holds an outstanding food source to help those fish grow, and the lake is so big the fish don’t see a lot of lures.” There is plenty of elbow room. The lake is 70 miles long and wide and contains more than 14,552 islands and 65,000 miles of shoreline, so there’s a diverse habitat that offers good fishing all season. Jig early, pull spinners in mid-summer, try crank baits late summer and jigs again in the fall. Early and late season the fish follow the shiner migration to the Rainy River which enters the lake at Four Mile Bay on the southeast shore of the lake. This protected water usually produces good fishing and the area is home to a number of family vacation resorts.

Lake Bemidji, Minnesota

This 11-square-mile lake in north central Minnesota, part of the origin drainage of the Mississippi River, is now Thelen’s home water, so he knows the score. “From May to June there’s heavy local pressure on the lake, but for some reason later in the season, nobody’s there,” said Thelen. “In July and August, the fishing is great.” A weed bed runs along the entire shoreline, and by mid-summer Thelen says that’s where the fish are lurking, and why you won’t see them on electronics. A spinner with a 3/8-ounce weight pulled along the edge of the weeds in 6 to 8 feet of water will coax keepers to 20-inch walleyes out of the weeds. Bemidji is another great resort town with activities for the entire family.

Devils Lake, North Dakota

The season opens at ice-out, so if you’ve got the itch to fish walleye in April this is one place to go. Just be prepared for safe boating on cold water and cool weather. Issues with flooding in the 1990s have been mitigated by an outlet that opened in 2005, which helped stabilize the water level on this 330-square-mile lake. The best walleye fishing is usually from April to June, fishing shallow early and deeper later in the season. The lake features lots of structure that holds fish, from trees and old roads to submerged farmsteads. Parts of the lake can be shallow and anglers need to use caution and watch for debris and old poles just below the surface. Local guides fish the north shore of the lake in early season, and transition to back bays of the main basin during the summer, fishing deeper structure in late summer. The city of Devils Lake on the north shore is the main hub of activity, but there are lodging options around the lake. Wherever you fish this season remember that a local Alumacraft dealer can be a valuable source of needed supplies and local knowledge. Get out and share your adventure photo by tagging #fishingfreedom.

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Weed management is rarely at the top of anyone’s list of desirable to-dos. Bending over and pulling weeds is a lot of work, and it’s rarely a permanent solution. Spraying weed killer isn’t the best alternative since the chemicals aren’t good for grass or the pollinators that may land or feed on those weeds.

Instead of breaking your back or introducing harmful chemicals into your lawn’s ecosystem, consider smoking out those pesky plants with a weed torch. These handheld torches run on propane and focus a small but scorching flame on stubborn invasive weeds. This guide helps shoppers choose the best weed torch for a particular yard or garden.

We tested the following weed torches in our lawns, vegetable gardens, and ornamental landscape beds. Read on to find out how we selected these models, how they performed on our backyard tests, and which may be the best weed torch for your lawn and garden maintenance needs.

1. BEST OVERALL: Red Dragon VT 1-32C 25,000 BTU Mini Weed Dragon Torch
2. RUNNER-UP: Flame King YSN340K Auto Ignition Propane Torch
3. BEST BANG FOR THE BUCK: Flame King YSNPQ810CGA Propane Torch Weed Burner
4. BEST HEAVY-DUTY: Red Dragon BP 2512 SVC 400,000 Backpack Weed Torch
5. BEST FOR GRAVEL: Gaspony TB-PFP Power Flame Pro 500,000 Propane Torch
6. BEST FOR PAVERS: Flame King YSNPQ820S Wide Flame Propane Torch Burner
7. BEST FOR GARDEN: Houseables 20,000 BTU Weed Torch Propane Burner
8. ALSO CONSIDER: Ausail 50,000 BTU Weed Torch Propane Burner

How We Tested the Best Weed Torches

We set up our weed torch testing regimen to simulate real-world working conditions. We spent more than 6 hours, or an average of about 45 minutes per torch, in testing. In addition to the operational tests outlined below, we evaluated ease of assembly, operator comfort, effectiveness in killing weeds, and durability. After assembling each torch according to the manufacturer’s instructions, we installed fuel tanks, tested for leaks, and recorded the weight and dimensions of each unit.

We assigned specific areas of the lawn, vegetable garden, and landscape beds to specific torches and labeled the areas accordingly. Each area contained similar coverage of weeds and desirable plants, and the terrain was also comparable from one plot to the next. One at a time, we lit the torches and treated the assigned spaces. Walking at a slow pace, we passed the flame across any weed leaves and stems without stopping. The intense heat desiccated the green leaves, and there was no need to char them.

After the treatment, we evaluated the weed dieback and monitored for regrowth. We inspected each space 3, 7, and 14 days after the initial treatment. After recording the Day 14 observations, we treated each area a second time. Finally, we entered our observations on a scoring rubric to help clarify an overall evaluation and award recommendations for each tool.

Our Top Picks

We’ve identified and tested some of the best weed torches on the market. Our lineup includes compact tools, heavy-duty models, and high-powered torches for a broad spectrum of property types and users. Read the individual product reviews ahead to learn more about them and to find the best option for specific uses.

Jump to Our Top Picks

What to Consider When Choosing a Weed Torch

Between how a torch works and lights to its size and features, choosing this gardening tool does take a bit of background research. It’s important to understand how these tools function and to evaluate the area to be treated before scorching those dandelions. The following are a few important shopping considerations to keep in mind while searching for the best weed torch.

Lightweight vs. Heavy-Duty

There are two styles of weed torches: lightweight and heavy-duty. Lightweight weed torches, equipped with bent tubes that attach to a small 1-pound propane gas canister, are the more portable option. Heavy-duty torches are for large-scale jobs and have hoses that can connect to a full-size 20-pound tank.

Choosing between the two styles is really a matter of preference, but here are a few points to help decide between the two.

Lightweight torches

Pros

• Easily portable
• User-friendly
• Operate with lower temperatures

Cons

• Lack volume for extended use
• Do not use refillable tanks

Heavy-duty torches

Pros

• Offer plenty of volume for long burns
• Powerful
• May have adjustable flame
• Use refillable propane tanks

Cons

• Heavy and difficult to carry around
• May be noisy

Ignition Methods

There are generally two ways to light a torch: via built-in igniters or manual strikers.

Built-in igniters work similarly to the striker used to light a barbecue grill. They’re usually attached to the tube and feature a push-button spark. With the gas turned on, the striker safely lights the flame at the end of the tube. The pressure of the gas pushes the flame out to the end of the torch, and then it’s ready to kill weeds.

Manual strikers can be a little trickier to use. Similar to the strikers used in some high school chemistry classes, manual strikers need to be in proximity to gas when struck to light the flame. This could make some DIYers nervous, in which case a built-in igniter might be the better option.

Hose Length

When considering weeding tools, it’s important to think about the size of the area that needs to be treated. Most heavy-duty torches are meant to run on large 20-pound propane tanks, so hose length can affect maneuverability among the weeds. In general, a 10-foot hose is ideal. This length is long enough to cover a wide area, yet short enough to prevent the user from tripping or falling.

Those needing to cover a large area of land while using the torch may wish to purchase an additional cart or dolly to hold the heavy propane tank. The wheels will make moving it across the yard easier.

Bell

Some weed torches are equipped with a bell-shaped shroud at the end of the torch. This bell helps the torch to retain heat and direct the flame, creating a more efficient burn.

While efficiency is always a bonus, it’s not always necessary when it comes to weed torches. It might take a little longer to kill weeds using a lightweight model without a bell, but it’s usually only a difference of a few seconds.

A bell also helps shield other plants from the intense heat created by the flame. If the plan is to work with a torch around sensitive plants, consider a torch with a bell. Keep in mind, however, that using a torch of any kind in a mulch-laden flower bed is a bad idea.

Variable-Flame Control

The ability to control the flame is another important factor to consider when it comes to purchasing a new weed burner, as too much heat may cause the user to unintentionally burn valuable plants with a large flame. Plus, without an adjustable flame, users may run through a canister of propane before covering their entire yard.

Most of the products featured in this guide include control valves that can be dialed up or down to throttle the amount of fuel passing through the wand. Some heavy-duty torches feature boost handles that can temporarily increase the size and temperature of the flame. Simply squeeze the valve to increase the volume and pressure for tougher weeds and release it to return it to its normal setting.

Heat Rating

It’s important to review the heat rating for potential weed torches. Rather than using degrees Fahrenheit (which won’t describe output of the torch), torch heat ratings are quantified using BTUs, and there is a wide range of BTU ratings available.

Most weed burnersproduce at least 20,000 BTUs, which is plenty of heat for burning a weed. Heavy-duty models can produce up to 500,000 BTUs, which isn’t usually needed for common yard weeds. A torch that offers between 20,000 and 100,000 BTUs is often more than adequate.

Safety Features

As a general rule, weed torches aren’t inherently safe. They don’t have a safety valve, they produce lots of heat, and their nozzles get very hot. Gloves and safety glasses help protect users, but there simply isn’t much one can do to make a weed tool like this 100 percent safe.

Features such as built-in gas-control valves, built-in trigger starts, and hoses of safe lengths can reduce some of the risks involved in burning yard weeds. A built-in igniter ensures that the user’s hand is kept a safe distance away from the flame, while the gas-control valve helps throttle back the amount of flame the torch produces to keep things under control. Using a hose of proper length can prevent users from tripping.

Crucial safety tip: Never use a torch or flame of any sort to remove poison ivy. The oil that poison ivy produces (urushiol) is what causes skin blisters and other painful reactions. When the plant burns, that oil attaches to the smoke particles and can travel through airways and land on skin, causing potentially serious health hazards.

Tips for Using a Weed Torch

In general, a quick blast of heat will break down the cells that weeds need to grow, even if they don’t turn completely black. The best time to use a weed torch is on a wind-still day after a good soaking rain. While weed torches are safe if used properly, the soaked terrain will help reduce the risk of an accident, and low wind speeds help keep the flames controllable.

Always keep a hose or a bucket of water nearby while burning weeds, and remove leaves and debris from the area before torching the weeds. Leaves and debris will burn much faster than weeds, and passing over them with a lit torch can lead to an unintended fire in no time.

• A quick pass of heat is often enough to kill a weed without charring it to embers.
• Use on a calm day with no wind and after it has rained to torch weeds safely.
• Keep water on hand and remove leaves and debris before torching weeds.

FAQs

If you want more info about buying or using the best weed torches, read on for answers to some of the most frequently asked questions about these garden tools.

Q. How does a weed torch work?

Weed torches use propane-fueled flames to cook the cells inside of a weed, inhibiting its ability to use sunlight (or photosynthesis) for energy and growth.

Q. How hot do weed torches get?

Weed burners vary in their heat output, with some models producing more than others. Common torches range between 20,000 and 500,000 BTUs.

Q. Can a weed torch help with poison ivy?

Burning poison ivy is a bad idea. The oil in poison ivy, oak, or sumac that causes itchy blisters is called urushiol. If you burn these plants, the oil attaches itself to the smoke particles, which can land in your lungs and cause serious respiratory irritation.

Q. Do I need to reduce the weed to ash or simply brown it to destroy it?

Generally speaking, burning the weeds to charred ash isn’t necessary. Simply heating the plant for a few seconds until it wilts should be enough to destroy it.

Q. How do you start a weed burner?

Starting a weed burner is typically very easy. Start by attaching the propane to the wand, or the hose to the propane tank, depending on the model. Next, open the valve on the propane tank, if it has one. Then open the valve on the wand to let some gas pass through. Finally, press the built-in igniter or use a striker held (safely) near the nozzle while striking to light the weed torch.

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