Foraging for food in the backcountry is a great way to enjoy a tasty treat on the trail. But, foraging for the wrong berries, scrubs, and leaves could result in an upset stomach, or something much worse.

That’s because not all the tasty-looking plants you see on the trail are okay to eat. Some are highly toxic and are best avoided. The key is knowing how to tell the toxic plants that look like food apart from those that are okay to eat.

If you’ve ever wondered how to identify toxic plants, we’re here to help. In this article, we’ll introduce you to 30 types of plants that look like food that you ought to avoid on your travels. That way you can avoid this list of poisonous herbs and berries and stick to eating only edible plants as you hike.

Caution! Foraging Safety

30 Toxic Plants That Look Like Food: What You Need To Know

1. Death Camas

If a name like “death camas” doesn’t tell you to stay clear of this plant, nothing will. All jokes aside, however, death camas (Zigadenus venenosus) is one of the most toxic plants in North America.

Death camas is found throughout the western and midwestern United States and it looks like a tall, grass-like plant. Below the ground, it has a sizable bulb that makes it look dangerously similar to plants like onions, garlic, leeks, chives, and scallions.

The problem is that, unlike these plants, death camas is not edible. It can cause muscle weakness, vomiting, tremors, convulsions, and, as its name suggests, death. Thankfully, poisoning among humans isn’t very common, but death camas is known to cause problems for livestock, especially sheep.

Either way, death camas is one toxic plant that you should avoid at all costs.

2. Jerusalem Cherry

Jerusalem cherry (Solanum pseudocapsicum) is a nightshade that’s traditionally used as an ornamental plant for Christmas. However, while it makes for a pretty decoration, the fruits and seeds of the Jerusalem cherry are highly toxic.

In fact, the poisonous fruit of the Jerusalem cherry contains solanocapsine. Unless eaten in very large quantities, solanocapsine usually isn’t deadly to humans, but it can cause gastrointestinal problems and severe vomiting. It’s also possible that these berries are poisonous to cats, but more research is needed to confirm that.

The problem is that the fruit of the Jerusalem cherry is a small, reddish-orange cherry tomato-looking fruit. This can make it difficult to identify, particularly because there are so many varieties of this plant. Therefore, it’s generally best to avoid plants that look like cherry tomatoes while foraging in the wild.

3. Doll’s Eyes

If there’s one plant that you need to avoid at all costs, it’s this one: doll’s eyes (Actaea pachypoda). A member of the buttercup family, doll’s eyes look like innocuous white flowers before they become raisin-sized white berries with a distinctive black spot.

These berries can be found throughout the deciduous woodlands of eastern North America, and they are highly toxic. The plant contains an as-of-yet unidentified toxin that affects the cardiac system. This toxin is found throughout the plant, including in the roots and berries. When ingested, this toxin effectively “sedates” the heart and can lead to immediate cardiac arrest.

Thankfully, you need to eat a fairly large amount of these berries for this to happen, which isn’t likely because the berries are so bitter. But, the doll’s eyes are best to avoid on the trail.

4. Hemlock

5. Rosary Pea

6. Giant Hogweed

7. Death Cap

8. Angel’s Trumpets

9. Tutsan

Traditionally used to ward off evil spirits, the tutsan (Hypericum androsaemum) is a perennial shrub that’s native to Eurasia. It was traditionally used as a medicinal plant for things like antidepressants.

However, despite its historic medicinal use, the entire tutsan plant, including its berries, which look similar to blueberries in some situations, are toxic. That’s because they contain hypericin, which is a commonly found compound in species of the St. John’s Wort genus (Hypericum).

It’s unclear precisely what it is about hypericin that’s toxic, but it’s believed that this compound can lead to cell death. Nevertheless, consuming tutsan berries can lead to nausea and diarrhea, so it’s perhaps not the best option for your trail snack.

10. Canada Moonseed

Canada moonseed (Menispermum canadense), or simply common moonseed, is a highly toxic plant that’s found throughout eastern North America. It is a relatively small flowering plant that forms in thickets with thick green leaves and small bunches of blueberries.

Although it might look like any other berry-bearing plant, the Canada moonseed is exceptionally toxic. It contains a plant metabolite called dauricine, which is found throughout the plant’s berries, roots, leaves, and flowers. Dauricine causes cardiac issues that can lead to cardiac arrest and death. Needless to say, don’t eat the Canada moonseed.

Interestingly enough, however, this highly toxic compound is being studied for use as a cancer treatment because there’s some hope that it can suppress the growth of cancer cells. One 2019 study found that it was fairly successful at suppressing pancreatic cancer growth in mice. Even still, don’t eat Canada moonseed.

11. Buckeye

12. Wisteria

13. False Morels

14. Wolfsbane

15. Horse Nettle

Despite its name, horse nettle (Solanum carolinense) is not actually a nettle, but rather it is a type of nightshade.

Horse nettle is a type of herbaceous plant that grows large leaves and has white and yellow star-shaped flowers. It is most commonly found in temperate North America, but you can also find it in areas of Europe, Australia, and temperate Asia.

Also called devil’s tomato, the horse nettle is well-known for bearing a highly toxic tomato-like fruit. This poisonous fruit contains solanine, which is a type of alkaloid that can cause abdominal pain, vomiting, nausea, and even respiratory arrest. When eaten in large quantities, horse nettle can even cause death.

Since the fruit of the horse nettle does look a lot like a cherry tomato, it’s important to be careful when picking tomato-like fruits in the wild. Keep in mind that the horse nettle has a thorny stem, which is one way that you can tell the two apart. However, caution is still necessary whenever picking tomato-like fruits on the trail.

16. Castor

Castor (Ricinus communis) is a type of flowering plant that’s arguably best known for the castor bean, which is technically a seed. The castor bean is used to create castor oil, which is used for manufacturing dozens of products, from paints to perfumes.

This plant is traditionally found throughout the Mediterranean Basin, the Indian subcontinent, and eastern Africa, though it’s now spread throughout the tropics and subtropics.

Although castor bean oil is a very popular manufacturing product and even though the castor bean looks like it might be edible, it’s actually highly toxic. This is because raw castor beans have a high level of ricin, which is a type of poison that prevents cells from making proteins.

Thankfully, castor bean poisoning isn’t that common, but it is possible, particularly if you eat a large number of castor beans. It’s estimated that a healthy adult would need to eat approximately 4 to 8 castor beans in order to get seriously ill.

But since the ricin in castor beans could kill you, it’s probably best to avoid eating castor beans, regardless of the quantity you consume.

17. American Bittersweet

American bittersweet (Celastrus scandens) is a fairly common type of twining vine that is found climbing its way up trees, fences, trellises, and other structures throughout deciduous ecosystems in North America.

It has small oval-shaped leaves and small flowers that form in clusters. Eventually, these flowers give way to small orange or red-colored fruits.

However, the American bittersweet has a bit of a controversial history of toxicity. While some sources maintain that the American bittersweet is not toxic to humans, it’s been suggested that the plant’s fruit was used by a number of Indigenous communities to induce vomiting.

Either way, we do know that American bittersweet is highly toxic to dogs, cats, and horses. So, if you’re adventuring with your pet or pack stock in tow, be mindful of these potentially dangerous fruits on the trail.

18. Daffodil

Daffodils are a common sight around manicured gardens and in the wilderness during the spring months. However, they are not a good trail snack because they are highly toxic.

All daffodil varieties contain a chemical called lycorine, which is present throughout the plant’s flower, stem, and bulb. In fact, the bulb of the daffodil has the highest concentration of lycorine, which is known to cause nausea, abdominal pain, and even liver damage.

Since daffodils are so distinctive when in bloom, it’s unlikely that someone would mistake them for a different kind of edible flower. The problem with daffodils arises before they bloom. Because daffodil bulbs can look like wild onions, some people have mistaken them for onions, which is problematic.

Thankfully, there is a way to tell daffodil bulbs and onions apart. First and foremost, daffodil bulbs don’t smell like onions. But, even in the absence of this olfactory clue, daffodil bulbs also don’t tear into layers like onions do. So, proper identification is key when searching for wild onions.

19. Deadly Nightshade

20. Yew

21. Pokeberries

22. Virginia Creeper

Sometimes called the five-leaved ivy, the Virginia creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia) is a type of decorative ivy that’s originally from the eastern and central parts of North America. Although it can sometimes be confused with poison ivy, Virginia creeper has clusters of five leaves—not three.

While Virginia creeper might not cause the same kinds of rashes as poison ivy (more on that in a bit), it’s not exactly a harmless plant.

In fact, the Virginia creeper has berries that look a lot like purple grapes but that contain oxalic acid. This can cause joint pain, as well as vomiting, diarrhea, and other similar symptoms when consumed.

23. Cotoneaster

Cotoneaster refers to a large genus of flowering plants that are technically part of the rose family. These plants were traditionally found throughout the temperate regions of Europe, Africa, and Asia, though you can now find them in North America.

Almost all cotoneaster plants feature berries and leaves that contain cyanogenic glycosides. Even though cotoneaster plants generally have low levels of these compounds, consuming too many berries can lead to kidney, liver, or heart failure. This is particularly true among young children.

Additionally, cotoneaster berries are believed to be toxic to dogs. Although a dog that eats these berries will usually only experience mild digestive problems, eating large quantities of berries could lead to severe health issues among canines.

24. Bitter Almonds

25. Mistletoe

A mainstay of Christmas and yuletide celebrations around the world, the mistletoe is a type of hemiparasitic plant that originated in Europe but has since been introduced to North America. But while the mistletoe is quite festive, it’s not a great snack to eat with your eggnog.

There are a number of active substances in mistletoe, including tyramine and phoratoxin, which can cause vomiting, nausea, and cardiac arrest.

But there are actually 1,500 different mistletoe species, each of which has varying levels of these toxins. This makes identifying particularly poisonous mistletoe plants very difficult.

In fact, it’s believed that American mistletoes are less toxic than their European counterparts. But with all those potentially nasty side effects to worry about, it’s probably better not to taste the mistletoe at your next holiday gathering.

26. Poison Ivy

27. Manchineel Tree

28. Holly

Holly is another Christmas symbol that’s known for being a festive addition to any wintery gathering. Like mistletoe, however, holly is also highly toxic, so it’s best as a decoration, rather than as a holiday snack.

While holly is a beautiful decorative plant, the berries of the holly plant genus Ilex (there are about 480 species in the genus) are all toxic. They contain a number of different compounds, including theobromine, rutin, quercetin, and chlorogenic acid.

For the most part, ingesting holly berries leads to diarrhea and vomiting, though they can also lead to intestinal problems. Eating even a few holly berries can lead to health problems in children. Thankfully, the prickly leaves of the holly plant usually dissuade kids from eating these berries, but it’s important to keep in mind while hiking or enjoying a yuletide celebration.

29. Elderberry

Although elderberry is a delicacy and one of the most commonly used medicinal plants on the planet, it’s technically toxic. Yep, that’s right. When eaten raw, elderberry’s bark, leaves, and berries can cause health problems.

That’s because elderberries naturally contain lectins, which are a type of protein that can cause stomach issues. Additionally, elderberries contain cyanogenic glycosides which can cause cyanide poisoning, just like in bitter almonds.

The good news is that cooked elderberries don’t contain these compounds, so it’s generally not a problem to eat the berries with proper preparation. Either way, the bark, branches, and leaves of elderberries don’t lose their toxic compounds when cooked, so hikers should avoid eating these during their travels.

30. Wild Cherry

Last but not least on our list, we have the wild cherry (Prunus serotina). Also called black cherry, the wild cherry tree is a deciduous tree that’s found throughout the Americas.

While it shares part of its name with the tasty cherry that many of us enjoy, the wild cherry’s leaves are highly toxic. The wild cherry tree leaf contains hydrocyanic acid and cyanogenic glycosides, which can release cyanide when ingested. This can be fatal if eaten in large quantities.

Fatalities associated with wild cherry in humans aren’t very common. However, livestock and pets are common victims of the wild cherry due to the fact that they sometimes eat the tree’s poisonous leaves. Therefore, hikers should keep a close eye on their pets while venturing down the trail.

How to Identify Common Poisonous Berries (North America Edition)

What to Do If You Eat a Toxic Plant

Hopefully, your astute plant ID skills and cautious approach to foraging have prevented you from accidentally eating a toxic plant that looks like food. In the unfortunate instance that you do eat something that’s not edible, it’s important that you quickly get to medical care.

Should you come into contact with a poisonous plant while hiking, do the following:

1. Stay Calm – It might sound cliché, but no one has ever achieved anything from panicking in an emergency.
2. Take Photos – If you can, take photos of what you ate. Doing so may help with plant identification by poison control or the hospital. Do not bring the berries, fungi, or plants with you to the hospital. Bringing these substances to the hospital can be dangerous for you and medical providers.
3. Get To Medical Care – Even if the amount of toxic berries that you ate is relatively small, your best bet is to get to medical care as soon as possible. Everyone reacts differently to different substances, so you want to be around medical professionals if you were to have an adverse reaction to a toxic plant. The faster you can get to medical care, the better, but don’t over-exert yourself or get lost in the process.
4. Provide Supportive Care – Should you be tasked with caring for someone in the backcountry that is having an adverse reaction to toxic berries or plants, you may need to provide supportive care to that person. Doing so is only appropriate for people with prior medical or wilderness medicine training. Supportive care in these wilderness situations usually means conducting a complete patient assessment and coordinating an evacuation.

The best

Why You Should Walk Back Tune Your Arrow Rest

As I said, I have recently been experimenting with different broadhead options and while I did my testing at a maximum range of 30 yards, it wasn’t until I stretched the distance that the weakness in my system began to show its face. And, despite the fact that the average treestand bow-shot happens between 15-20 yards, I like to push the limits of my equipment and increase my maximum, effective killing range (MEKR) whenever possible.

My broadhead, which seemed to fly so precisely at 30 yards (matching my field points) suddenly began to develop a mind of its own when I hit 40 paces. However, instead of looking at the head in question with a skeptical eye, I knew exactly where the problem lies. It could be found in my arrow rest. The only way to fix the problem was to Walk Back Tune it.

How Do You Walk Back Tune Your Rest?

While the term might sound complicated the procedure is rather simple to perform. But, before we discuss the “how” let’s cover the necessary items you will need.

1. Large Target: Try to find the biggest one possible.
2. Duct Tape or Blue Painters Tape
3. Shooting distance of at least 40 yards
4. Allen Wrenches
5. Range Finder
6. Calm or No Wind.

Start by using the tape to make a T on your target face starting at about 6 inches below the top of the target. Depending on the speed of your bow, the vertical portion of the T might need to be longer or shorter.

Once you have made the T on the target face it is then time to shoot your first arrow. Starting at 10 or 20 yards, aim exactly where the horizontal and vertical portions of the T connect. If your arrows don’t hit the mark then adjust your sight only. Keep adjusting your sight until your arrow impacts the intersecting lines. Once that happens it is time to move further away from the target.

Using the same pin you used for the first arrow (20 yards) walk back to 30 yards and launch an arrow at the same intersecting point on the T. Then, walk back to 40 yards and, using the same 20-yard pin to aim with, shoot an arrow at the intersecting lines on the T. Repeat this process for 50 and 60 yards if possible. Again, all shots are taken while aiming at the same intersecting line of the T using only your 20-yard pin.

Once completed, you will find that of course, your arrows will fall from the top to the bottom. However, the critical detail will be which side of the tape they landed on; either right or left of the centerline on the T. You will notice that the further the distance of the shot, the further away from the centerline your arrows will be. This is normal as the greater the distance the greater the influence on arrow impact.

Adjusting Your Arrow Rest

Unlike sighting in your bow (when you chase the arrow with your sight’s pin), walk back tuning requires that your arrow rest be moved in the direction you want the arrow to go. For example, if your arrows are falling to the left of the centerline on the T then you will want to move your arrow rest to the right. Conversely, if your arrows are falling to the right of the centerline on the T then you will want to move your arrow rest to the left.

Believe me when I tell you it only takes a minute amount of movement in order to drastically change your arrow’s point of impact. More than once I have overcompensated and pushed my arrow beyond the desired impact point.

So, after making a small adjustment to your rest repeat the process to determine if more movement is necessary and in what direction. Pretty soon all of your arrows should impact the vertical line on the T from top to bottom. Remember, use only your top pin for all shots.

The Basics of 2nd and 3rd Axis Adjustments

I once thought that the 2nd and 3rd axis adjustments on my bow sight were more suited for the western big-game bowhunter. However, while prepping for a western hunt I realized the importance of setting these adjustments not only for elk in September but also for my favorite whitetail stand in November. As it turns out, the 2nd and 3rd axis adjustments are both critical for dead-on accuracy; especially in hill country or when shooting uphill, downhill, and even side-hill.

The 2nd Axis adjustment (which can be done with your bow leveled and resting) is probably the easiest to understand as it runs through the shooter’s line of sight and is adjusted by rotating the sight housing like the hands on a clock (clockwise or counterclockwise). Up close you might not recognize any effects if things are out of whack. However, at longer distances, your accuracy will suffer.

The 3rd Axis adjustment (which should be done while you are at full draw) influences the rotational axis that your sight level moves on. In other words, it is like a door swinging open either toward the shooter or away. Both of which you do not want.

Instead, when you reach full draw, your bow’s bubble level should be exactly perpendicular to your line of sight. You don’t want the level to angle (or hinge) toward you or away from you. If it does, even if slightly, the difference in angle will be enough to ruin your uphill and downhill shots. This typically results in left and right misses.

Second and Third Axis adjustments are made differently depending on what type of sight you are using and the manufacturer. Therefore, it is best to refer to your owner’s manual when attempting to adjust them. My intent with this article isn’t to show you how to do it but the importance of doing it.

However, one universal tool that will be needed is a level that attaches to your bow. You can either purchase one or you can build your own. I built my own and spent the money I saved on something else hunting-related.

Conclusion

While you might be knee-deep in hanging tree stands and organizing trail camera images, don’t neglect the most important variable in your whitetail efforts-your bow. After all, nothing else matters if it isn’t tuned to its maximum potential. With Walk Back Tuning and 2nd and 3rd Axis adjustments, you can rest assured that it will be.

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Crappie readily bite for nearly everyone in the spring, but these panfish become more of a challenge to catch in the heat of summer.When the summertime sun raises water temperatures above the 80-degree mark, crappie seek deeper water and heavier cover. The fish still remain active though as they feed on schools of shad passing through the crappie’s hot-weather haunts.

On my home waters of Lake of the Ozarks, summertime crappie fishing poses two problems: heavy recreational boat traffic and a lack of visible cover. I solve the first problem by fishing early and late in the day to avoid traffic. Crappie tend to burrow into the middle of brush when recreational boaters churn up the water and it becomes difficult to position my boat in the rolling waves and properly present my lure through the brush.

Some fish can also be caught in the clear water early and late in the day, but mid-day action is slow as the crappie suspend over deep water. In the stained water areas of a lake, the fish stay shallower and are easier to catch throughout the day.

How To Fish For Crappie In Shallow Water

Minnows are the most popular summertime bait for anglers fishing a tight line off docks or spider rigging in boats. Since a crappie’s appetite is voracious during the summer, I select larger minnows (sometimes bigger than 3 inches) for my bait. I prefer using 2/0 and 3/0 hooks because the bigger hook is easier to remove from a crappie and the fish don’t swallow it as much as they do a smaller hook.

Jigs are also productive for summertime crappie. I use either a single 1/16-ounce jig for shooting docks or a double rig for vertically jigging above brush piles. The double rig consists of a 1/16-ounce jig spaced 18 inches above a 1/8-ounce jig at the end of my line.

While my home lake lacks visible cover, Truman Lake is another one of my favorite summertime crappie fisheries that has plenty of it. Lots of standing timber was left in Truman when the Army Corps of Engineers filled the lake.The lowland lake has more turbid water so crappie can be caught in both shallow and deep water in the summertime. A shallow-water pattern produces best when a summertime shad hatch occurs, but for most of the summer you need to fish deeper water.

How To Fish For Crappie In Deep Water

The shallow pattern consists of dipping minnows with a long pole and slip-bobber system in timber along fence rows and tree lines on the main lake or creek channel. You can catch these fish less than 10 feet deep and sometimes even as shallow as 2 feet. The slip-bobber system allows you to adjust your bobber up or down to find the magic depth in which the crappie are holding. Use number 2 or 4 hooks and pinch on a couple of number 5 split shots about 2 to 3 inches above the hook. Keeping the weight close to the minnow will restrict its movement to prevent hang-ups in the heavy cover.

Summertime Crappie Fishing: Deep Water

The deep-water pattern works best in timber along main lake bluffs and channel swings during the hottest part of summer. The fish will vary in depth from 15 to 25 feet depending on the lake’s thermocline. The same slip-bobber rig used for catching shallow crappie also works in the deeper water because the fish will be suspended in the timber. If it’s too windy the bobber will bounce too much in the waves and make your presentation look unnatural. Remove the slip bobber rig then and present your minnow vertically on a tight line next to the timber to trigger a bite.Try these patterns for crappie action as hot as the summertime weather.

Wondering what the difference is between crossbow broadheads vs regular broadheads? Some archers find they can accurately shoot their favorite vertical bow broadheads on their crossbow. There is a fine line, but there are differences in design to account for higher bow speeds and kinetic energy.

If you are struggling to get good groupings with your normal compound bow broadheads, then it’s time to move on to a “crossbow broadhead”. Broadhead companies are coming out with more and more products designed specifically for crossbow shooters. This guide covers all the best crossbow broadheads for deer and the various factors you should consider.

Best Crossbow Broadheads Compared

*Last updated 2024-11-10 at 11:06 / Product Links & Images from Amazon Product Advertising API

Crossbow Broadheads vs Regular Broadheads

Many old-school bowhunters will tell you that crossbow broadheads are nothing but a marketing ploy, that the only difference is the word “crossbow” on the packaging. At one time that may have been true, but as crossbow hunting has exploded in popularity that really isn’t exactly true anymore. If you hunt crossbows, why wouldn’t you want to shoot broadheads made for crossbows?

1. Rage Crossbow X – Best Mechanical Crossbow Broadhead

The Crossbow X is basically the same broadhead as the regular Rage 2 blade. They don’t specifically say what the difference is, but I speculate there is a small difference in the deployment mechanism to prevent the blades from expanding in flight.

The Crossbow X broadhead has all the other great design features Rage is known for. There is the Shock Collar system that keeps the rear cam deployment consistent.

The blades are a solid .035” stainless steel, and open to a massive 2” cutting diameter. If you have trouble with mechanical blades opening early, the Rage X would be a good head to try next.

2. Excalibur Boltcutter – Best Fixed Blade Crossbow Broadhead

The Boltcutter is a beefy 3 blade, 150 grain fixed blade broadhead for crossbows. Excalibur explains the choice of a 150-grain head as a way to improve the accuracy over 300 fps by increasing the front of center balance.

The entire broadhead is constructed from high strength stainless steel to withstand the high kinetic energy impact of crossbows.

The Boltcutter is a sweet balance of the strength and durability of fixed blades, with the speed and accuracy of a mechanical.

3. Muzzy Trocar Crossbow

The Trocar is a very sharp, three-cornered stainless steel tip, which is found on an instrument used in surgical procedures, and also on the tip of these broadheads. This feature is intended to increase penetration, which I suspect it does very well. Paired with a solid stainless steel ferrule, it punches through bone without deformation.

The Muzzy Trocar uses a helix design with a right-hand twist, which combined with a rather compact profile, is intended to increase stabilization while offering less resistance to the wind, resulting in consistent flight characteristics and accuracy. Muzzy designed these especially for use at higher speeds.

These broadheads are available in either 100 or 125-grain weights, with .035″-thick blades and a cutting diameter of 1-3/16″. One nice feature is that the blades are easily replaceable if they get bent or damaged just unscrew the old one and screw a new one on.

4. NAP Spitfire Crossbow

The NAP Spitfire is a 3-blade mechanical broadhead that has gained something of a reputation for reliable functioning and great performance. The blades are sharpened with NAP’s patented Diamize process and are thus razor sharp. Another patented feature is the hardened-steel Trophy Tip to maximize penetration and decrease deflection off of the bone. It also sports a micro-grooved ferrule which is intended to improve accuracy.

The Spitfire utilizes a mechanical spring clip retention system to keep the blades from deploying in flight, so there is no need to mess with O-rings, even when using high-speed bows. Users report that this patented (boy they have a lot of patents on this) retention system is very reliable, with hardly any reports of premature blade deployment. As a matter of fact, customer reviews on these broadheads are excellent, consistently citing accuracy and superior performance.

Available in both 100 and 125-grain weights, with a cutting diameter of 1-1/2″, these can be used on both carbon and aluminum bolts. An excellent choice for deer and elk as well as a turkey broadhead.

5. Grim Reaper Crossbow Broadhead

These are nearly identical to the Grim Reaper Razorcut SS broadhead for compound bows, just modified for use with crossbows that shoot up to and beyond 400 fps.

The difference isn’t clear as Grim Reaper has next to zero info on their website. Get with the program guys.

The X-Bow heads are available in 100 and 125-grain sizes, with either Razortip or Razorcut SS tips. The cutting diameter is a large 1.5”, and crossbow hunters have been happy with the size of wound channels for humane take-downs.

6. Swhacker Two-Blade Crossbow Broadhead

Swhacker has earned a name in the industry for high quality and innovative designs, and these mechanical broadheads are good a good example of both. They feature stainless steel blades, an anodized aircraft aluminum ferrule, and a high-carbon hardened steel penetration point.

According to their website, their unique design provides two different cutting edges, a primary and a secondary attack. When the primary cutting blades are retracted, two short wing blades are deployed, much smaller than the main blades. These are for the initial assault, cutting through the dirt, hair, hide, and bones and penetrating into the interior. They point out that they use much less energy to penetrate than broadheads that open upon impact, and that they take some of the load off of the ferrule.

As they penetrate, they open the primary blades inside the body cavity, leaving them with “virgin edges” when they open. It really is a clever design. These are available in 125-grain weight, blades are .032″ thick, with an open cutting diameter of 2-1/4″. A good choice in mechanical broadheads.

7. Cabela’s Lazer Strike II Crossbow

Here we have Cabela’s brand mechanical broadhead, which is actually very popular. Normally I side with the saying “you get what you pay for”, but the Lazers have the performance and track record to push away fears of the low price.

Lazer Strike II crossbow heads are built with a hardened steel trophy tip design, with replaceable .030” stainless blades. You can tell the difference between these with the regular Lazers by the gold-colored ferrule.

These use the o-ring method for blade retention, so if you hate messing with o-rings, you may want to stick with the Rage or Reapers.

8. Muzzy Trocar HBX

The Muzzy Trocar HBX is a hybrid broadhead with a rather unique design. The hybrid construction combines the advantages of both fixed blades and expandable blades. They’re equipped with a tapered steel ferrule that is the same size as the bolt, and utilizing the same three-sided stainless steel surgical Trocar tip as used in the Trocar Xbow above. The mechanical blades are retained in a closed position using a friction washer.

The broadheads in flight with the fixed blades and the rearward-deploying mechanical blades folded are only 3/4″ x 1″ in profile, which the company says gives field tip accuracy, and by most accounts this holds true. At impact, the mechanical blades expand to a 1-5/8″ cutting diameter for a large wound channel. But here’s the twist. When the expandable blades meet bone, they close up to re-open after they have passed the obstruction, letting the fixed blades do the heavy work.

These are available in both 100 and 125-grain weights. Users report excellent results with the Muzzy Trocar HBX broadheads and they’re well worth giving a try.

9. Rage Hypodermic Crossbow

For years the Rage Hypodermic mechanical broadheads have maintained high popularity among hunters, earned by their consistent reliability of function, accuracy, and game-getting results. It’s a proven design that works well.

The simplicity of their design contributed greatly to their reputation. What the company calls Ferrule Alignment Technology (FAT) ensures proper bolt-to-ferrule alignment and contributes to the sleek aerodynamics. The steel ferrule is equipped with a very pointy hybrid tip for deep penetration. The system uses a reliable high-energy shock collar for blade retention. When deployed, the .035″ stainless blades boast a huge 2” cutting diameter for an equally huge wound channel. Available in 100 or 125 grains.

It’s hard to go wrong with this time-tested beast stopper.

10. G5 Striker Crossbow

For those who prefer fixed-blade broadheads, the G5 Striker is a top contender, known for its durability, accuracy, and stopping power.

It utilizes the unique patented ANIX blade locking system, which is basically a very sharp three-sided steel tip which locks over the lower part of the blades, taking the brunt of the impact off of the three fixed blades, protecting them from damage. The blades themselves are metal injection molded for flexibility, tapered for better aerodynamics, and honed with the company’s Diamond-Cut Sharpness sharpening technology. The whole unit is solid steel and spin-tested to ± 0.002″ straightness for maximum accuracy.

Available in either 100 or 125 grains, with a cutting diameter of 1-1/8″, the G5 Striker is an attractive high-tech alternative for the modern hunter.

A Crossbow Broadhead for Any Hunter

The selection of broadheads for crossbow hunting has never been better. Whether you prefer fixed blades like the Xcalibur Boltcutter or mechanicals like the Rage Crossbow X, or if you like a heavier 150 grain or lighter 100, there is a broadhead for you. Select the right grain and cutting diameter for the type of hunting you like to do and get out there with confidence. All of these broadheads are elite choices and fully capable of taking an animal with a good shot. If you are interested in crossbow hunting for turkey, check out our turkey broadheads guide.

*Last updated 2024-11-10 at 11:06 / Product Links & Images from Amazon Product Advertising API

The “git ‘r done with one” shotgun

by Larry Case

“Hey, boy…hand me that scattergun,” he said in a low growl. I carefully handed him the double-barrel, a Fox Sterlingworth that I greatly coveted. We were hiding in his old corncrib and he slid the barrels out the hole in the wall he had selected. Four crows had just landed in the end of his garden where the sweet corn was planted, I heard the snick of the safety and knew they were about to have a bad day.

I watched for a few minutes as he waited for them to cluster together. This guy did not believe in wasting shells. Three of the crows mostly stayed together while one wandered off a little. At the shot, those three stayed. The lone crow left for parts unknown and I doubt if he ever came back.

My gruff mountaineer mentor eased out of his seat and opened the door to the corncrib. His work for the morning was done. Crows had been ravaging his corn, he took care of the problem and that was that. He used a tool for the job, in this case, a shotgun, just like he would use a shovel or a hammer for different jobs on the farm. The old double-barrel was the same gun he used for rabbits, ducks, squirrels, or anything else he hunted with a shotgun.

Things were a lot simpler back then.

Time was when most hunters used one shotgun for about everything. Like my long-gone friend on the mountain, one gun did the job from ducks to squirrels to grouse, and usually with one choke. Now don’t get me wrong, I like shotguns and I have several, but there is something to be said for the simplicity of one gun that does it all.

The CZ-USA Upland Ultralight All-Terrain

It has been several years ago since I went to my first NRA Convention in the capacity of a gun writer. I stopped by the CZ-USA booth and was handed an Upland Ultralight model in 12-gauge. It was love at first heft. This is a 12-gauge shotgun that weighs six pounds. The 20-gauge is less than 5 ½. Many times since then, I have said, “you carry a shotgun a lot more than you shoot it.” And to me, for a hunting shotgun, the lighter the better.

The Upland Ultralight has been a lightweight, fast handling shotgun since its inception, but when CZ-USA came up with the All-Terrain line, they just made a good thing better.

Daniel Holder, the Special Project and Event Coordinator at CZ-USA, gave me his take on the Upland Ultralight.

“I refer to the Upland Ultralight as a ‘guide’s gun.’ What I mean by this is some upland guides will often carry a shotgun, especially if they want to get a little hunting in. That person is going to be carrying that gun a lot more than they will be shooting it. Having an over/under that is close to six pounds makes it a lot easier to carry in the field. Upland hunters, in general, are not going to shoot a lot but, boy, do we walk! I would rather carry a 6.5-pound gun two miles and deal with a little bit of recoil than do the same with an 8- or 9-pound gun. The All-Terrain Upland Ultra-light is the ultimate upland gun. It’s light, rugged, and almost impervious to the elements. How many times have you been walking a field and gotten caught in rain, snow, sleet, et cetera? With the Cerakote finish on that gun, I never worry about it getting wet. The magnets in the extractor are a big plus as well.”

The Four-Wheel Drive of Shotguns

First thing you will notice in the differences between the standard Upland Ultralight and the All-Terrain models is the barrels and receiver boast a Cerakote finish. Cerakote is a hard-coat ceramic and polymer finish. Developed in the 1980s, Cerakote protects against abrasions and is a virtually bombproof shield against corrosion.

So, let’s talk about one of my least favorite topics in the gun world, and that is cleaning them. If you love to clean guns, I truly envy you. I don’t, and whether this can be chalked up to just plain laziness or an inherent character flaw, I don’t know. Bottom line is hunting shotguns take more abuse than any other gun around. Does any shotgun get banged around and exposed to more water, mud, snow, and Labrador drool than one that belongs to an avid duck hunter? Turkey hunters can be rough on a shotgun, and grouse and other upland bird hunters drag their scatterguns through some places not fit for man or beast.

The point is, unless you immediately grab your shotgun and tear it apart for cleaning after a long day in the hinterlands, especially if it got wet, a protective coating like Cerakote can be heaven-sent.

A unique feature of this series of scatterguns is a small but revolutionary addition to the ejector/extractor of the break-open variants. To make them more ideal for use in a duck blind or while handling dogs and equipment in the field, each of the All-Terrain over/under and side-by-sides has a set of rare earth magnets installed in their extractor or ejectors. With these magnets in place, most modern shells are retained in the gun even when the gun is open and turned upside down. This makes loading them easy in a pit blind or a boat, and never will a dog-handler accidentally dump shells out of their gun while bending over to work with their dog.

Why hasn’t someone thought of this before? I don’t know, but CZ-USA Shotgun Product Manager Dave Miller did and believe you me, it is handy. Lots of over and under fans (and fans of side by sides) will routinely break down the shotgun and put it over the shoulder. It is a handy way to carry the gun during a break and it ensure safety as the gun cannot fire. The magnets holding the shells just makes it handier.

Rounding out the features on the All-Terrain models is factory-installed studs to install a sling. Probably all my shotguns that I carry afield now have slings on them. Once again, we carry the gun a lot more than we shoot it. The All-Terrain guns also feature extended choke tubes, making changing chokes in the field easier and it opens a world of aftermarket options that are out there.

I think of the All-Terrain line of shotguns from CZ-USA as the four-wheel drive of shotguns. Cerakote coating in the muted green tone makes these guns nearly impervious to the elements. (Great camo for ducks and turkeys, too). Add the sling studs to install a sling and carry it everywhere. The screw-in choke options will get you ready for most any type of shooting you may come across.

This shotgun will be equally comfortable in the duck blind, turkey woods, pheasant prairies, or grouse thickets. And you will not have to worry about babying it one bit.

More All-Terrain models

CZ-USA didn’t stop at making the Upland Ultralight a four-wheel drive shotgun. Maybe you would rather have a semi-auto? The CZ 1012 is an inertia-driven shotgun that was fired well over 5,000 times in testing with no cleaning or malfunctions. I saw this gun used last fall by Dave Miller and his team to set the Guinness Book of World Records for the greatest number of clays broken by a five-man team in 12 hours. Miller and his crew of young shooters shot these guns almost continuously and broke 14,167 targets. One young man used the same 1012 the entire time — a few others used only two guns that day. Believe me, there were some hot barrels out there that day. So, you can have the inherent ruggedness of the 1012 semi-auto in the Cerakote finish and sling studs.

CZ-USA also made the Redhead Premier, the Bobwhite G2 double-barrel, and the Drake model shotgun with the All-Terrain features. All these shotguns except for the 1012 are available in 12 and 20 gauge.

“The product development team at CZ-USA is comprised of hunters,” said Daniel Holder. “What I mean by this is that we not only design and build the products we put out, but we all use them, extensively. Whether it is hunting ducks at Reelfoot Lake in Tennessee or chasing Easterns in the woods of the “black belt” region of Alabama, we use our products. Because of this experience, we make products that fit the lifestyle of hunters. We know that often the conditions are not favorable to metal guns. Out of the demands we put on our products, the All-Terrain series was born. We wanted to design the “Mack truck” of shotguns. Our goal was to create a product line that no matter what we encountered, the guns would function year in and year out. These guns are also remarkably diverse and can be used on a wide range of game. In the 2019/2020 hunting season, they took pheasants in South Dakota, quail in Texas, snow geese in Missouri, and a turkey in Alabama with one of the Redhead Premier All-Terrains in 20 gauge.”

You may never use your CZ-USA All-Terrain shotgun for as many different things as my old friend on that mountain farm, and then again, you might. Whatever you need a shotgun for, the All-Terrain models are there, like a four-wheel drive truck, sitting in your driveway gassed up and ready to go.

If you’ve been shooting for a while, you’ve probably heard the best shooters talk about dry-fire training.

Dry fire training is a practice technique that simulates shooting and manipulating a firearm without using live ammunition. Instead, shooters use an unloaded gun to safely practice their shooting skills virtually anywhere without the expense, noise, and hazards associated with using live rounds.

Dry fire training is important for gun enthusiasts because it helps them become more comfortable, confident, and competent with their firearms while developing ‘muscle memory’ and refining their skills. Those who dry fire often see a dramatic improvement in accuracy, faster shooting speeds, and better overall performance in real-world shooting scenarios.

While many agree dry fire practice is an essential component of any training regimen, many people find dry fire training boring. Shooters rather shoot for live ammo at a range.

This is where dry fire training systems come into the picture.

They can make dry fire practice more efficient, effective, and fun, by providing realistic simulations, immediate feedback, and a wider variety of training scenarios than just using an unloaded gun.

Shooting is a perishable skill, so making dry practice enjoyable helps encourage people to continue practicing.

We’ve used all of the major dry fire training systems in the market, which we’ll be sharing with you later in this article.

But, let’s start with the best dry fire training systems based on our extensive testing.

Let’s get to it…

Top 10 Dry Fire Training Systems You Need to Try

We’ve tried every major dry-fire training tool on the market, and our cadre thinks the following training aids are the best overall.

Each product has its pros and cons that address one or more specific skill sets. Not one product on the market does it all, but each one will help make you a better shooter.

That said, before getting to the list, here are our recommendations based on common use cases and categories:

• Best Overall: Mantis X10 Elite and the Mantis Laser Academy

• Best for AR-15s: Mantis Blackbeard X

• Best for Beginners: SIRT Pistol and Dummy Rounds

• Best for Simulating Recoil: Laser Ammo’s Recoiled Enabled Pistols (if you want to use a training gun) and Coolfire Trainer (for your own gun)

Now, here’s the list of the best dry fire training systems with their key features and benefits.

How Laser-Based Dry Fire Training Systems Can Improve Your Shooting Skills

In our top 10 list, you’ll find quite a few laser-based dry-fire training systems.

They use a laser-emitting cartridge or a laser integrated into a dedicated training gun. When the trigger is squeezed, the laser device emits a brief red, green, or IR laser beam. This laser beam simulates the path of a real bullet and provides instant visual feedback on shot placement and accuracy.

There are two main parts to a common laser-based dry-fire training system:

1. Laser Cartridge or Training Gun: The laser cartridge is a small device inserted into a real firearm’s chamber or attached to the end of specific training gun barrels. Alternatively, some systems use dedicated training guns with integrated lasers, often replicating real firearms’ size, weight, and feel for a more realistic experience.
2. Target or Sensor System: The target can be a simple paper target, reflective stickers, or an electronic sensor system that detects the laser beam when it hits. Some electronic sensor systems can connect to a computer, smartphone, or tablet and use special software to track shot placement, timing, and other performance metrics, providing detailed feedback to the user.

Advantages of Using a Laser-Based Dry-Fire Training System

• Safety: Laser-based systems provide a safe way to practice shooting skills without risking accidental discharge or injury because they don’t shoot a projectile.

• Cost-Effective: Practicing with a laser-based system eliminates the need for purchasing live ammunition, which can be expensive, making it a more cost-effective alternative to live fire training.

• Convenience: Laser-based training systems can be used in various indoor settings, allowing gun owners to practice their shooting skills anytime and anywhere without needing a shooting range.

• Realistic Simulation: Many laser-based systems replicate the size, weight, and feel of real firearms, providing a realistic experience.

• Immediate Feedback: Laser-based systems offer instant visual feedback on shot placement, helping shooters identify areas for improvement. Some systems also provide additional performance metrics through connected software.

• Versatility: Laser-based systems can be used with various firearms and in various training scenarios.

Disadvantages of Using a Laser-Based Dry-Fire Training System

• Lack of Recoil: Most laser-based systems do not simulate the recoil experienced when firing live ammunition, which may limit the development of specific shooting skills that require managing recoil effectively.

• Initial Cost: While laser-based systems save money on ammunition in the long run, they can have a higher upfront cost than just using an unloaded gun for dry fire practice.

• Compatibility: Some laser cartridges are designed for specific calibers, meaning users with multiple firearms may need to purchase different laser cartridges or adapters to practice with each gun. In addition, some laser cartridges may not work with specific laser targets.

• Technical Issues: Electronic sensor systems and related software may occasionally experience technical issues or glitches, which could impact training sessions.

Improve Your Shooting Accuracy with These Computer-Based Dry Fire Training Systems

As referenced in the previous section, some laser training systems work with specialized software applications. Combined with laser-emitting devices or sensors, these applications are computer-based dry-fire training systems that provide detailed feedback on your shooting performance.

Computer-based dry-fire training tools fall into two major categories.

1. Laser Cartridges or Training Guns Combined with Camera System Software: As discussed above, when a shooter fires a laser beam from a laser cartridge or laser training gun, a computer or smartphone captures the laser’s impact point on a target. The camera system sends the captured data to a connected computer, smartphone, or tablet running specialized dry-fire training software. This software processes the data, tracks shot placement, timing, and other performance metrics, providing real-time feedback to the shooter.
2. Sensors Attached to Firearms: Another option uses sensors attached to a firearm that detect the movement of a gun, such as with the Mantis X10 Elite. Sensors collect hundreds, if not thousands, of data points, which computer software analyzes. The software offers various features for analysis, such as displaying shot groupings, calculating accuracy scores, and identifying patterns or areas for improvement. Users can track their progress over time and adjust their training routine based on the feedback provided by the software.

Advantages of Computer-Based Dry-Fire Training Systems

Like laser-based systems, computer-based dry-fire tools offer safety, cost-effectiveness, convenience, real-time feedback, and versatility.

Beyond that, computer-based dry-fire systems provide more detailed analysis and feedback on performance.

Moreover, they provide better progress-tracking features. Shooters can track their progress over time, allowing them to analyze their performance and improvement trends.

Lastly, several software applications will provide you with specific pointers based on areas you need to improve, sometimes offering video instruction, too.

Disadvantages of Computer-Based Dry-Fire Training Systems

Dry-fire training systems, like laser-based tools, can have a high initial cost, lack recoil, and may have compatibility and technical issues.

In addition, there can be a learning curve to using software. Some shooters may find setting up and using a computer-based system challenging, especially if they are not tech-savvy.

Recoil Systems: The Secret Weapon for Effective Dry Fire Training

If you’re serious about firearms training and dry fire, you’ll likely use a recoil-enabled dry fire pistol at some point.

They function a lot like laser pistols, but they also simulate the recoil of a real firearm during dry-fire training, providing a more realistic experience and helping users develop the necessary skills to manage recoil effectively. These systems can either be standalone training guns or attachments that can be added to a real firearm.

Typically, the recoil simulation mechanism relies on compressed gas, such as CO2 or gas, that creates a force that pushes the slide backward, mimicking the recoil experienced during live fire.

Airsoft pistols that have been converted to shoot a laser with every trigger pull are the most common option in the market. They are replicas of real firearms in design and weight, so everything will feel the same when you practice while saving your actual firearm from wear and tear. We like and recommend Laser Ammo’s Recoil Enabled Pistols.

If you want to use your own pistol instead of an airsoft pistol, a great option is the Cool Fire Trainer. It replaces your live fire barrel inside your real pistol, and each trigger squeeze will activate a CO2-powered mechanism to cycle your pistol’s slide and provide recoil (while emitting a laser with each shot).

Advantages of Recoil Systems

The big advantage is the ability to simulate recoil.

One of the challenges to proper dry fire training, in general, is for shooters to use the same technique and grip pressures they would when firing a real gun with live ammo.

When a shooter fires live ammo, they tend to grip harder because of the little explosion in their hands. This is needed to help control the gun.

For the average shooter, during dry fire drills, they may not have a proper grip. They likely aren’t gripping their gun hard enough with the same consistent pressure applied during live fire, which can engrain bad habits during one’s dry fire session.

Using a recoil-enabled pistol will provide some blowback, reminding the shooter to grip their gun as if using a real gun.

In addition, the simulated recoil will make one’s sights or red dot lift/move as if they were shooting live ammo. The shooter must learn to manage this blowback so that their sights return to their target efficiently and effectively, so they can take follow-up shots quickly.

Lastly, recoil systems allow users to practice their trigger control, specifically resetting and prepping their triggers as they would during live fire.

Disadvantages of Recoil Systems

Although recoil-enabled dry-fire pistols provide blowback, the recoil does not match the amount of force applied by ‘real’ recoil.

The recoil impulse from compressed gas is better than nothing and serves as a reminder to grip a firearm properly, but shooters must understand that they need to invest ample time in shooting live ammo to learn how to manage recoil.

Another disadvantage is that any training tool that uses compress gas to simulate recoil must be ‘kept warm’ to use for long periods of time.

For example, airsoft pistols typically use magazines filled with green gas. Initially, a shooter might be able to take 50 to 60 rapid-fire shots before having to refill the magazine.

When one refills the magazine with green gas, they’ll notice it’s cold. The colder the magazine, or wherever compressed gas is being stored, the fewer shots one will be able to take before having to refill the gas again.

Specialized Training Tools That Will Take Your Shooting Skills to the Next Level

Specialized dry-fire training tools are designed to help gun enthusiasts improve specific shooting skills and techniques without using live ammunition. These tools can be used independently or with other dry-fire training systems to enhance the overall training experience.

While some specialized training tools overlap with the preceding categories, specialized tools can offer more focused and in-depth training around a specific skill set or skill sets.

There are several dry fire training systems in our top 10 list above that fall into this category that we highly recommend, namely:

• The DryFireMag: An automatic pistol trigger resetting magazine.

• Laser Ammo’s Smokeless Range 2.0: A virtual range that you can use indoors.

• Laser Ammo’s Reactive Laser Targets: Great, versatile targets to use with all major laser cartridges and laser firearms.

• Dummy Rounds: They are low-cost and provide great training value, especially for beginners.

Are Dry Fire Systems Worth It?

You’re reading this article because you likely understand the value of dry-fire practice. But, you might wonder if these training aids are worth the money.

Dry fire training systems offer many benefits for shooters looking to improve their skills and maintain proficiency without using live ammunition. Here are some of the key features and benefits:

1. Safe Practice: Dry fire training eliminates the need for live ammunition, allowing you to practice shooting skills safely at home or in other non-range environments without the risk of accidental discharge or injury.

2. Cost Savings: Dry fire training systems do not require live ammunition, which can be expensive, especially for regular practice sessions. By eliminating this expense, you can save money while still honing your skills.

3. Convenience: With dry fire training systems, you can practice at your own pace and in the comfort of your home or any suitable space. This eliminates the need to travel to a shooting range and allows for more flexible practice sessions.

4. Real-time Feedback: Many dry-fire training systems provide instant feedback on shot placement, accuracy, and speed, allowing you to identify areas for improvement and adjust your technique more effectively than with traditional dry-fire practice.

5. Customizable Training: Dry fire training systems often include a variety of drills and scenarios designed to improve specific shooting skills. This allows users to tailor their practice sessions to focus on the skills they want to develop.

6. Eco-friendly: Since dry fire training systems do not use live ammunition, they are an environmentally friendly option for practicing shooting skills, reducing lead pollution and waste associated with spent casings.

7. Reduced Wear and Tear: Dry fire training typically causes less wear and tear on your firearm compared to live-fire training. This can help extend the life of your firearm and reduce maintenance costs. For example, when using recoil-enabled pistols, I prefer using airsoft replicas such as those from Laser Ammo.

Tips for Making the Most Out of Your Dry Fire Practice

Whether or not you use any of the products on our list or just an unloaded firearm when dry firing, keep these tips in mind to make the most out of your practice sessions.

1. Have a plan: Before starting your dry fire practice, determine what specific skills you want to focus on, such as trigger control, drawing from a holster, or target transitions. Having clear goals will help you concentrate on the areas that need improvement.

2. Create a dedicated practice space: Designate a specific area in your home or another indoor location for dry fire training. Ensure it’s free from distractions and has enough space for you to perform various drills comfortably.

3. Use a ‘real’ grip: Maintain the exact grip and stance you use during live-fire training to ensure consistency and build muscle memory.

4. Incorporate training aids: Utilize dry-fire training tools, such as the ones we’ve recommended in this article, to enhance your practice session and receive real-time feedback on your performance.

5. Focus on trigger control: Pay close attention to your trigger pull, ensuring a smooth and consistent press without disturbing your iron sights or red dot. This will help improve your accuracy during live-fire sessions.

6. Make dry fire a habit: Establish a regular dry fire training schedule to maintain and improve your shooting skills. Consistent practice is essential to getting better fast. In our War Room community, we conducted a challenge to have members dry fire every day for a month. After the challenge, dry firing became a habit.

7. Mix up your drills and exercises: Vary your drills, exercises, and scenarios to keep your training sessions engaging and challenging. This will help you develop a well-rounded skill set and prevent boredom during practice.

8. Record your progress: Keep track of your performance and improvements over time to stay motivated and identify areas that may require additional focus.

Here’s a video that will help make your dry fire training more realistic.

By following these tips, you can maximize the effectiveness of your dry fire training sessions and continually improve your shooting skills.

Frequently Asked Questions

Does dry firing damage a gun?

Dry firing generally does not cause damage to centerfire guns. These firearms are designed to withstand the impact of the firing pin hitting the chamber without a cartridge in place.

However, for rimfire guns like .22 caliber models, repeated dry firing can potentially cause damage because the firing pin in these guns may strike the edge of the chamber, causing it to degrade over time.

How much should you dry fire per day?

There is no minimum or maximum number of times a day. It will all depend on your time and how much you can remain focused during your practice sessions.

Many serious shooters dry fire at least 15-30 minutes a day, 3-5 times a week. Professional shooters may dry fire daily and for 30 or more minutes each session.

The key is to be consistent, depending on your time and attention span. If you can only dry fire once a week, then be consistent.

Regarding the session length, you can keep going as long as your technique doesn’t get sloppy. If this happens, it’s a good indicator that you should stop for the day.

Can dry fire training improve my shooting?

It absolutely can! I don’t understand those who say they don’t want to dry fire or that they only shoot live ammunition.

The best shooters in the world all dry fire. It allows you to work on practically everything you can when shooting live rounds, except recoil management.

Do I need any special equipment for dry fire training?

Not at all. You can use an unloaded firearm if you want.

That said, I highly recommend using different training tools like the ones on our list.

They will make practice more enjoyable and help you improve faster, especially for beginner to intermediate shooters.

Is dry fire practice effective for both beginners and experienced shooters?

Absolutely. Regardless of your skill level, dry fire practice allows you to get in countless repetitions for free, practically anywhere.

If you use proper technique, each perfect rep will help you improve and burn your movements into your subconscious.

Can dry fire training replace live fire training?

You can accomplish a lot with dry fire training alone, but it will never replace live fire training, regardless of using a laser pistol with an integrated recoil system.

Technology has gone a long way to simulating recoil using compressed gas, but it isn’t the same as live fire when it comes to learning and improving recoil management.

In addition, for a lot of shooters shooting live ammo, the sound of a gun going off (i.e. the bang) and the face that they are using actual ammo can cause stress and anxiety. This can’t really be replicated during dry fire, so shooters need to practice at a live range, too.

Though dry fire training can’t replace live fire training, they complement each other, and serious shooters will do both.

Get Started with the Best Dry Fire Training Systems Today

The best shooters in the world will agree. Dry practice will make you a better shooter.

But, many people find it boring. Dry fire training systems can help make practice fun while helping you improve faster.

We’ve tried practically every major dry fire product, but the list we provided are the best. Check them out and start practicing!

If we left out a major tool that you’ve used, let us know in the comments section below.

Our Comprehensive List of the Dry Fire Training Tools We’ve Used

In coming up with our list of the top dry fire training products, we went through a lot of different tools. Here the the other popular training aids we tested.

By TJ Maglio

There are very few baits responsible for more big bass, big limits, and tournament wins than the 5-inch Senko. What Gary created out of a ballpoint pen tube didn’t just change the soft plastics game, it changed bass fishing altogether.

How many bass fishermen catch their first bass on a Senko each year? And if you’ve ever got a true rookie in the boat with you, what’s the first thing you rig up for them?

A Senko no doubt.

The most brilliant thing about Senkos is their versatility. They are equally effective in the hands of top tour pros or the greenest of the green; and whether you’re fishing a mountain lake; lowland reservoir, tidal river, or a farm pond, you’re going to get bit.

Here’s the part where you may be thinking “Yeah; Senkos catch fish, tell me something new…”

What you may not know is that despite the Senko’s pedigree, one of the most common questions anglers still ask us all these years later is “what’s the best way to rig a Senko?”

We all know the truth.

There’s no wrong way to rig a Senko. You can use it cut in half on the back of a tiny Ned head or punch it through a thick mat of hyacinth behind a 2-ounce sinker. It really doesn’t matter much; as long as it’s in the water the bass eat it.

Since the vast majority of anglers realize that; I suspect the real question they are getting at is not “what’s the best way” but rather “how should I rig it?” Meaning what hook, line, rod, reel, etc.

A great way to solve questions like this is to sample a group of experts on the topic; listen to their opinions and then see where you fall. Which is exactly what we wanted to do. We decided to reach out to four of the Yamamoto Tour pros know specifically for their Senko prowess (Brent Ehrler, Larry Nixon, Jimmy Reese, and Jay Yelas); and ask them to break down how they specifically rig Senkos in a couple of the most popular ways (Texas Rigged and Wacky/Neko), so you can get a variety of details on the specifics of what terminal tackle, line, rods, and reels they use to catch fish across the country.

Hopefully these setups will help you narrow down your options as you search for the perfect setup for the way YOU fish!

Texas Rig

Brent Ehrler

Rig: 4/0 Gamakatsu Offset Round Bend, 16-pound Sunline FC Sniper fluorocarbon

Rod/Reel: Daiwa Tatula Elite MPS 7’3”, Daiwa Tatula Elite Reel (7.3:1)

Notes: Brent’s go-to Texas rig is actually weighted, which he likes as it shows the fish something a little different. “That little sinker really changes the fall of the 5-inch Senko. It’s still subtle but it has a really nice spiral on the fall; which bass don’t see a lot.”

Jimmy Reese

Rig: 5/0 Gamakatsu EWG (standard gauge), 12-pound Yo Zuri Fluorocarbon

Rod/Reel: Douglas Rods 7’2” Medium Rod LRS724F, Daiwa Tatula 150 (7.3:1)

Notes: The key to Reese’s Texas rig setup is versatility; and he keeps it on the deck pretty much all the time. “You can throw that thing up against a rock, dock, piece of wood, whatever you see – you can just pick things apart with it; and you can go pretty much anywhere around the country with that setup and go down the bank and catch fish.”

Jay Yelas

Rig: 5/0 Gamakatsu Superline EWG (heavy gauge), 15-pound Strike King Tour Grade Fluorocarbon

Rod/Reel: Lew’s Custom Speed Stick 7’ MH, Team Lew’s Hyper Mag Speed Spool (8.3:1)

Notes: Having a high-gear ratio reel is critical to Yelas with a Texas rig. “Particularly in shallow water; big bass will grab that Senko and just take off. If you can’t reel fast enough to catch up to it, you’re never going to get a good hook into it.”

Larry Nixon

Rig: 4/0 Gamakatsu EWG (standard gauge), 10-pound Sunline FC Sniper fluorocarbon

Rod/Reel: Dobyns 7’ Champion XP 705 Casting rod, Bass Pro Shops Johnny Morris Series (7.1:1)

Notes: Patience is the key when Texas rigging a 5-inch Senko says Arkansas legend Nixon. “Most of the time I fish a Texas rig weightless; and I’ve caught about a gazillion fish doing it. Just be patient and let the bait do its thing. If you’re not getting Senko bites; you very well could be fishing it too fast. Slow down and you’ll get bit.”

Wacky/Neko

Want to know what the absolute best inshore fishing lures are?

We’re constantly getting questions from the Salt Strong community about what the best lures for inshore fishing are, what our favorite lures are and how to fish each lure for different inshore species.

We decided to answer your questions once and for all and show you the top five inshore fishing lures of all time!

To do that, we came together to talk about our favorite lures. We narrowed it down to five that we think every inshore angler should have in their tackle box.

In this podcast episode, we go over the top inshore fishing lures of all time and how to best use them.

Do you have a favorite inshore fishing lure? Have any questions about our top inshore fishing lures?

Let us know in the comments below!

To learn more about the best fishing lures for every kind of fishing and get access to exclusive fishing gear, don’t forget to check out the Salt Strong Insider Fishing Club.

The Top Five Inshore Fishing Lures

We’ve narrowed down the best five fishing lures for inshore fishing after extensive research and testing.

These lures have helped us catch literally thousands of fish. Being confident in how to use them can do the same for you.

In no particular order, the top five inshore fishing lures of all time are:

1. The Paddletail Lure

One of the best lures to find fish in new areas is the soft plastic paddletail on a jig head.

This is an inexpensive and easy-to-use lure that catches just about any inshore fish there is. It is especially effective for catching trout and redfish on the flats or near structure.

The paddletail jig can be worked with a straight retrieve or with a twitch-twitch motion bouncing it off the bottom. Both retrievals will catch fish.

There are many manufacturers of paddletail lures, so you have a ton to choose from.

Our personal favorite is the Slam Shady 2.0 paddletail.

It’s white with gold and silver flecks to attract fish, and the tail has incredible action that elicits tons of reaction strikes.

Click here to get a free pack to try out! (While supplies last.)

2. The Weedless Spoon

This lure is a timeless classic that catches just about any kind of fish there is.

While these lures do not look spectacular compared to other fishing lures, they are extremely effective.

Spoons create a lot of vibrations and flash in the water. They are designed not to look like any prey in particular, but rather create a lot of commotion and flash that inshore fish cannot resist.

Gold spoons seem to be the most popular of all for inshore anglers, but almost any color can work just fine. Our personal favorite is the Johnson Minnow Spoon, which is a weedless spoon we can work through grass and mudflats.

3. Topwater Plugs

Possibly the most exciting way to catch fish, topwater lures are an effective way to entice inshore fish and produce explosive visual strikes.

The “walk-the-dog” types of topwater lures are deadly just about anywhere there are inshore feeding fish. They are especially great over shallow water where fish do not have to rise up off the bottom too far to eat the lure.

Some of our favorite topwater plugs are the Heddon Super Spook and the Rapala Skitterwalk. We like to replace the treble hooks with single inline hooks to help keep ourselves safe and for protecting fish that are to be released. Single inline hooks dig into fish with hard mouths better than treble hooks – which is an important advantage when fishing for species such as tarpon.

Our favorite is our very own Moonwalker Topwater Lure.

Tip: fish topwater lures in the early morning and evening/night time for the best results. We particularly like the early morning because there is usually less floating debris (such as dead grass) than at night.

4. The Bucktail Jig

Bucktail jigs are the original gangsters of inshore fishing and are still just as effective today as they were 100 years ago.

This lure is cheap to buy and even easier to make at home if you have the materials (click here for a jig making tutorial). All it takes is a jig head, some bucktail (which you can buy online or at any fly fishing shop), and thread to hold it all together.

These are one of our go-to lures for big snook and are great for other inshore species such as pompano, redfish, trout, and even bass.

You can use heavier bucktails to catch massive snook and tarpon in deep water with heavy current or use tiny bucktail jigs to catch trout on the flats. Both tactics are effective.

5. Jerk Baits and Twitch Baits

Suspending jerk baits and twitch baits are lures that every inshore angler should have and know how to use.

For soft plastic jerk baits, we love the 5-inch Alabama Leprechaun jerk shad rigged weedless on a weighted hook. This is our go-to rig for fishing on grass flats and is deadly for redfish, trout, snook, and pretty much any other predator fish that feeds on the flats.

Tip: These soft plastic jerk baits have to be rigged correctly in order to work. If they’re rigged incorrectly, they’ll spin or have terrible action in the water and won’t catch fish.

Note: The jerk shad is a lure that helped land a catch of a lifetime when sight fishing from our 3rd-floor balcony (see the balcony catch video here).

Conversely, hardbody twitch baits that work in a similar way to their soft plastic cousins are another lure type you need to know how to use. You can work these just like your jerk baits.

Most twitch baits are not weedless, so keeping these off the bottom is a more effective way to fish these lures.

We especially like the MirrOlure MirrOdine.

It is one of our favorite twitch baits and has a great profile in the water.

Bonus Inshore Lures: Shrimp Lures

One thing we didn’t mention in our top five inshore fishing lures list was lures that imitate shrimp.

We all know that just about any inshore fish absolutely loves to eat shrimp. Having some lures that look like shrimp is always a good idea as they will likely catch a ton of fish when you use them.

The ultimate artificial shrimp imitation is the Power Prawn shrimp lure rigged on Power Prawn jigheads. This shrimp lure is hands down the best we’ve come across and catches all species of fish!

The Berkley Gulp Shrimp on a jig head is one of our absolute favorite lures when the conditions are turned up and choppy. The scent from the Gulp Shrimp adds another element to entice the fish to eat your lure.

So far, the Gulp products are the only ones we’ve been able to find that smell so good to fish that the used ones can be cut into small pieces for catching tons of pinfish and other small baitfish.

The D.O.A. Shrimp is another staple every inshore fisherman should have. These lures are extremely versatile and can be rigged on an unweighted hook, jig head, and even a popping cork. Each method will catch fish.

Savage Gear shrimp is another one that we’ve had success with, and there of course are many more options.

Learn more about the Insider Fishing Club

Top Five Inshore Fishing Lures [PODCAST]

You can watch the video version of this podcast below (which I highly recommend), listen to the audio version by clicking the play button underneath it, or listen to it on iTunes, Stitcher, or Spotify.

Note: Don’t forget to subscribe to the Salt Strong podcast on iTunes, Stitcher, or Spotify.

Related Podcasts:

• IS THERE A SECRET WAY TO WORK YOUR LURE?
• SWIMBAIT, CRANKBAIT, JERKBAIT, & TWITCHBAIT (WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE?)

Conclusion

Having a couple of lures you can use confidently and often will up your fishing game and help you catch more fish.

The lures above are proven to catch fish. Knowing how to use all of them will allow you to effectively fish the entire water column, which is critical when you are trying to locate where the fish are.

Remember, the most important thing is to find the feeding zone. Most of the time when you find the feeding zone, it won’t matter what lure you’re using — the fish will eat it.

However, these lures will have you prepared for every fishing situation when you do find the feeding zone.

If you have any questions or comments about this article, let us know in the comments section.

To learn more about the Insider Fishing Club, click here now.

P.S. – To see all of the past podcast episodes, click here now.

Tight lines!

Related Articles:

• 7 ESSENTIAL SALTWATER FISHING LURES THAT CATCH FISH PRETTY MUCH ANYWHERE
• JOHNSON SILVER MINNOW WEEDLESS SPOON REVIEW & RIGGING TIPS
• HOW TO CATCH MORE REDFISH, SNOOK, & GROUPER WITH JUST ONE LURE