Orcas are extremely fascinating large black and white mammals who rule any body of water they live in. You may have heard about Orcas attacking other animals and even occasionally humans — so you may be curious about how much damage their bite can actually do.

Orcas have an estimated bite force of 19,000 PSI which means they are at the top of the ocean food chain and can take down anything that comes into its path. However, although Orcas spend most of their time hunting for food, they are not typically overly aggressive mammals and won’t generally bother with some other types of sea creatures.

In the wild, Orcas live an average of 30 to 50 years — with female Orcas occasionally living up to 100 years old. In captivity, this number is much lower — Orcas typically only live about 17 to 29 years. And there are many more interesting facts about Orcas including how they use their teeth as well as how they compare to sharks and other animals.

How Strong Is An Orca’s Bite?

It’s difficult to get an exact measurement of how hard an orca can bite, but it’s estimated that its bite force is an incredible 19,000 PSI (Pounds per square inch). To put this into perspective, the dog with the highest bite force (the Kangal) has a bite force of 743 PSI. This bite force can vary depending on the size, age, and sex of the Orca doing the biting, as well as how it is measured.

How Sharp Are Orca’s Teeth?

The large teeth of an Orca are conical (cone-shaped) and interlocking. These teeth are very sharp however they are not meant to use to simply chew food — they’re meant to rip the food apart into smaller chunks the Orca can simply swallow.

How Many Teeth Does An Orca Whale Have?

Orcas have teeth lining both their upper and lower jaws — they have 48 to 52 teeth in total! Orcas have 10 – 14 large teeth on either side of their jaw on both the upper and lower jaws. Their teeth start to grow in when they are just a few weeks old and will have their complete set of full-grown teeth by the time they are about 11 or 12 weeks of age.

How Big Are Orca’s Teeth?

Orcas have 48 to 52 teeth and all of them grow to be about four inches long. They are quite sharp in addition to being large for their size.

Do Orcas Teeth Grow Back?

Orcas only get one set of teeth in their lifetime, so any teeth they happen to lose will not be replaced. Since their teeth are large and they have quite a strong base, they don’t lose them too easily. So, most Orcas will retain most of their teeth throughout their lifetime.

Orca Teeth vs Shark Teeth

Although they may seem similar, Orcas and Sharks are quite different, and one main difference is the number of teeth they have as well as how they use them.

Orca Teeth. Orcas have only one set of roughly 50 teeth and they use these sharp, strong teeth to rip their food apart before they swallow the chunks whole.

Shark Teeth. Sharks have many rows of teeth — so they can have a few hundred up to a few thousand teeth! Sharks continuously lose their teethby biting and chewing (losing around 100 teeth a day is not uncommon!) but there are always new teeth ready to replace them. Sharks use their triangular-shaped, razor-sharp teeth to kill, rip apart, and chew up their prey.

Are Killer Whales And Orcas The Same Thing?

Orcas are commonly referred to as killer whales and the names are often used interchangeably — even by marine experts.

However, killer whales are actually not whales at all! Killer whales are actually dolphins — in fact, they’re the largest member of the dolphin family. All whales, dolphins, and porpoises fall under the order of Cetacea. However, it’s the teeth of an Orca that makes them fall under the suborder called Odontoceti — which means toothed whale. This is one popular theory about why Orcas are referred to as killer whales.

Another popular theory about how Orcas became known as killer whales is that in the past whalers called Orcas “killers of whales” and the name eventually got shortened and it stuck.

Are Killer Whales Aggressive?

While killer whales can look very aggressive when it comes to finding and eating their prey, they don’t generally seek to harm humans on purpose. And the aggression they show is simply them tearing apart their food to feed themselves and the other Orcas in their pod.

However, if an Orca is in a situation where they feel threatened, are protecting their family, or are prodded when they’re feeling emotionally unstable, they will likely lash out and injure — or even kill — any human that’s in their vicinity. It’s also often said that if killer whales are kept in captivity, they may get frustrated and depressed and lash out at a trainer or another human.

Generally, the aim of a killer whale is only to play in a friendly way with the humans they come into contact with. But unfortunately, their playing often will hurt a human because of the Orca’s strength, and the fact that they will often drag them underwater where they will usually drown.

Can Orcas See Color?

Orcas have excellent eyesight and they can see color — but not in the same way that humans can. Orcas have two types of color receptors while most humans have three types of receptors. Therefore, Orcas have trouble seeing the red-green axis.

Do Orcas Eat Sharks?

Although sharks are major predators of the waters they live in, the one great natural enemy of a shark is the Orca! The Orca will win in a fight against a shark almost every time.

However, Orcas generally don’t hunt for sharks because while they will usually win, sharks have razor-sharp teeth and the fight they put up will generally harm the Orca before the Orca can finish them off.

Orcas have a very diverse carnivore diet and will typically hunt a variety of fish, as well as penguins, seals, moose, seabirds, whales, and even other dolphins. Orcas tend to hunt in pods of about 40 — mostly made of up families. Resident pods tend to be less aggressive and hunt only for fish and smaller sea creatures, while transient pods work together to hunt larger marine mammals — which they then share amongst themselves.

How Tall Is An Orca’s Dorsal Fin?

The dorsal fin is a major distinguishing feature of the Orca. Just behind the dorsal fin is a saddle-shaped grey area, referred to appropriately as a “saddle”.

Once an Orca is fully grown, its dorsal fin is tall and triangular and is an average of six feet tall.

Most female Orcas have slightly smaller, more curved dorsal fins that reach about three to four feet high.

How Big Do Orcas Get?

Orcas are considered to be the largest species of the dolphin family. Male Orcas will grow to be between 20 – 26 feet long, with female Orcas generally being a bit smaller — coming in between 18 – 22 feet long. To put this into perspective male Orcas are roughly the size of a bus. The longest Orca ever recorded was 32 feet long.

Male Orcas will typically weigh 12,000 pounds or more, while female Orcas generally weigh between 8,000 and 11,000 pounds.

Even when they are born, baby Orcas (calves) are roughly seven to eight feet long and weigh an average of 400 pounds.

How Often Do Orcas Eat?

Orcas need between 150 and 300 pounds of food every day in order to stay healthy and active. If an Orca is extremely active, they may need up to 375 pounds of food to make up for the calories they burn while hunting and traveling.

It’s not uncommon for an Orca to spend up to 90% of their day hunting for food.

Could An Orca Bite A Crocodile In Half?

With their super sharp teeth, an Orca very likely could bite a crocodile in half, however,it’s quite unlikely that would actually happen. Since Orcas tend to tear their food up before they eat it if they were to capture a crocodile, they would likely hold onto it with their teeth and slam it around until it was immobilized and then use their teeth to rip it apart.

Alternatively, if it was a large Orca that came upon a smaller crocodile the Orca may just swallow up the entire crocodile whole.

You Might Also Like:

• How Strong Is A Grizzly Bear?
• How Strong Is A Jaguar?
• How Strong Is A Crocodile?
• How Strong Is A Wolf?
• How Strong Is A Hippo?
• How Strong are Great White Sharks?
• How Strong are Chihuahuas?
• How Strong Is A Husky?
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If you’re unsure of the difference between First and Second Focal Plane optics, checkout this podcast to learn more.)

FFP can get you a huge edge in competition, on some hunts, and on the field of battle. It can make you faster at longer distances and give you the ability to transition between targets of varying distance with speed and precision. FFP is freaking awesome. But it’s not always better.

Here are a few reasons to think twice before going FFP, and a few reasons why it might be right for you:

Optics. We love optical quality, so we’ll quickly address this first. When looking at the same scope (same family, same mag range, same everything else) available in SFP or FFP, there will be no discernable difference in optical quality between the SFP and FFP model. None.

Cost. Again, all else similar and only looking at SFP vs FFP in the same scope, the SFP version will always be less expensive. If cost is one of your major concerns, an SFP may be the way to go.

The manufacturing process behind getting the FFP reticle—which is almost always going to be glass-etched—in its position on the front of the erector unit, which sits way down inside the scope, and aligning it properly is far more involved than the process of installing an SFP reticle. A tougher scope to make means a more expensive scope in the end.

Tons of people don’t need it. This is the big one. FFP allows a shooter to engage targets and use all the hashmarks and/or grids of their technical reticle at any magnification. This is primarily useful when you find yourself on the clock in the heat of competition, or perhaps in combat. In these settings, you don’t necessarily have the time to dial your turrets (which would allow you to just shoot using the center crosshair on any magnification) or you don’t have time to make sure you are on a calibrated magnification to use those features, like you would in an SFP scope.

Most people we work with head to the range, sit down—not being timed on a clock or shot at—dial their shot into their turrets, and shoot off the center reticle all day. This is the perfect case for an SFP scope. Should someone want to use their reticle for spotting a friend, they can just dial up their image to the scope’s calibrated magnification level and use the hashmarks in the reticle to call shots. (This is usually the highest magnification, where the reticle and image are at the same scale.)

Many hunters don’t need FFP. There are some cases where FFP may help hunters. For example, when in hilly or mountainous country where you may come over a crest or a ridge to find your quarry suddenly right there in front of you, ready for the taking. You probably don’t have the time to dial a shot or change your magnification, so the FFP scope would allow you to make a quick holdover and execute the shot without any trouble.

That said, FFP has one big flaw for low-light hunters that might be hunting in thick timber or brush: The reticle on the lowest magnification in an FFP scope (which is also the magnification that provides best low-light performance) is often so tiny you can hardly see it. Unless the scope is illuminated, the chances of you picking out that tiny little thing and making a good shot in those conditions are low. Many people prefer the SFP scope because, even when they have it on the lowest magnification, the reticle remains its normal size, more visible in the brush or timber, especially in low light.

Where having an FFP is handy. You can do it, but you’ll likely be frustrated if you head to a PRS match with an SFP scope and try to compete at the level of some of the top competitors. Any other similar situation where you may find yourself executing shots at varying distances and in short order, the FFP riflescope is the way to go. Imagine shooting a target at 100 yards, then finding and engaging a 500-yard target, then an 800-yard target, then back to 300. The person with FFP will choose a magnification—almost never the highest mag, and probably somewhere down in the lower half of the mag range—and just sit there with it, taking full advantage of the larger field of view for finding and transitioning between targets, and engage all the targets quickly without having to touch the mag ring.

They may use the turrets, but they’ll likely use their reticle to hold over, or to make quick follow up shots and corrections after spotting their own misses. Meanwhile, the person with SFP is either dialing all over the place, or cranking their mag ring up to use their reticle, then cranking it back down after engaging the target to zoom out and find the next target…

You can often get the same exact scope more affordably if you just want to shoot at the range and dial your turrets to shoot off the center crosshair. Most casual shooters almost never use FFP to its fullest. Hunters in low light, thick timber, or heavy brush that utilize the lowest mag on their riflescope a lot usually don’t like how tiny the FFP reticle appears when the scope is on the lowest mag and prefer SFP.

But, if you shoot competition, trust your life to your optic, or hunt in the right places, FFP can give you a huge edge.

If you want to take a deep dive into riflescopes to help figure out which one is right for you, check out this podcast covering everything you ever wanted to know about riflescopes.

Looking to learn more about long-range optic selection? Check out this 10-minute talk.

It’s our hope you can learn and laugh along with the expert voices we feature on this blog. We want to be clear that the opinions you see featured here are just that: opinions. The content belongs to the authors and is not necessarily the opinion of Vortex Optics.

To learn more about what you’ve read, please like, follow, and otherwise support our authors.

Take the time to prepare your turkey food plots

At this time of year, the questions usually start pouring in on how to attract turkeys for the upcoming spring season.

Most people don’t like to hear that many food sources turkeys love to eat should have been planted the previous summer for seed production and cover. Restoring native habitat for game birds like turkey and quail is also a growing section of wildlife management.

In my opinion, loss of habitat may be the number one factor in a list of many reasons for why quail numbers declined steadily over the last several decades. On the other hand, wild turkeys have enjoyed remarkable success in recent years. Now turkey populations are abundant across most of the United States.

Whether you want to attract turkeys and keep them on your property or wish to provide food and cover for a couple coveys of quail, there are several easy to plant turkey food plots that can be very beneficial. Millets, sorghum, and sunflowers are all easy to plant warm-season annuals. They can be planted as stand-alone crops or as a blend with other crops.

Plant Now, Feed Later

Many people want to plant something that provides food for wildlife within a couple weeks. That can work for deer, but it really doesn’t work that way for birds. For game birds, people really need to try to create food, cover and brood habitat essential for their survival. Giving the birds all they need through the changing seasons will keep them at home and discourage them from wandering to neighboring properties.

Millet, sorghum, sunflowers and other seed-producing warm-season annuals need 70 to 100 days of growth to mature and produce seed. As the plants mature and dry up in late summer and into the fall, they naturally begin dropping seeds. The maturity rate for plants depends upon what varieties are used. Of course, weather also plays a factor.

These warm-season annuals are relatively easy to grow and can be planted by broadcasting onto a prepared seedbed or by using a no-till drill or planter. I prefer a no-till drill for bird plots for a couple of reasons. The rows make it easy for smaller game birds like quail to navigate through an area. In addition, drills disturb the soil considerably less than using a disc or tiller. As a result, the planter usually has fewer problems with weeds.

If using traditional planting methods, I suggest spraying the area to be planted a week to 10 days before planting the seeds. Use a non-selective herbicide such as Round-Up to kill all existing vegetation in the plot. Ground to be planted can then be disced or tilled and then cultipacked or rolled to create a firm seedbed.

Seed can then be broadcast and lightly dragged in or rolled back over with a cultipacker. A pH range of 6.0 to 7.0 is usually needed for optimum growth and seed production. Since millets, sorghums, and sunflowers are fairly tolerant of acidic soils, people can plant them for birds in areas with less than ideal soil conditions. For fertilizer, I recommend using 13-13-13 at around 300 pounds per acre or an equivalent. These non-legume warm-season annuals are nitrogen lovers and it would benefit growth and seed production to implement a secondary nitrogen application four to six weeks after germination.

Go Native

A more long-term way to provide the lifecycle needs and improve habitat for birds is by using native warm-season grasses and plants. Varieties such as big bluestem, Indian grass, Maximillian sunflower, switchgrass, New England aster, Virginia wild rye and partridge pea are great choices. These native grasses and plants not only provide great nesting cover and feeding areas but also are very attractive to insects that are crucial to young birds. The bunch grasses provide open areas on the ground that makes it easy for young birds to traverse.

“Another big upside to planting game bird habitat, almost all other forms of wildlife benefit from it. I have found that whitetail deer love to use such areas for fawning.”

It doesn’t take an area with a large acreage to plant something effective for birds. Strips along the sides of roads, perimeters of large food plots, clearings in the woods and places like that all make suitable locations to plant something for birds.

Another big upside to planting game bird habitat, almost all other forms of wildlife benefit from it. I have found that whitetail deer love to use such areas for fawning. Many small critters, such as rabbits, really like to use these plots as well.

If you want to take your wildlife management to the next level, consider planting some areas specifically for birds to improve the overall diversity on the property. Even though you may only have an occasional covey of quail currently, there is no better way to help them multiply that by creating the food, cover and nesting areas they need.

Turkeys are somewhat creatures of habit. If a person provides them with year-round food and cover, they will not leave that area.

“Exploring the World of Air Rifles: Unveiling the Projectiles These Mighty Firearms Shoot!”

what do air rifles shoot

Air rifles are firearms that use compressed air or gas to propel projectiles. These rifles can shoot a variety of ammunition types, including pellets, BBs, and darts. The type of ammunition used depends on the specific design and purpose of the air rifle.

Pellets are the most common type of ammunition for air rifles. They are small cylindrical or round projectiles made of lead or alloy. Pellets come in different calibers, ranging from.177 to.50 caliber, and they can be either diabolo-shaped (with a larger head and narrow waist) or round-nosed. Pellets offer accuracy and consistency in shooting and are suitable for various applications such as target shooting, pest control, and small game hunting.

BBs are another type of ammunition used in air rifles. They are small spherical projectiles typically made of steel or copper-plated steel. BBs are mainly used for recreational purposes like plinking (shooting at targets for fun) and casual target practice. Compared to pellets, BBs generally have lower accuracy due to their shape but can still be effective within shorter ranges.

In conclusion, air rifles shoot projectiles called pellets or BBs. These small metal or plastic objects are propelled by compressed air, making air rifles a popular choice for recreational shooting and pest control. With various types and sizes available, it’s important to use the appropriate ammunition for safety and effectiveness.

Many hunters like to talk about the gear they bring on their hunts. The true gear nerds, like us, may even obsess over carefully-calculated spreadsheets that account for every item that enters their pack. (You can get a copy of our gear list spreadsheet.)

Once you know WHAT to pack, don’t overlook HOW to pack and WHERE to store each item that you bring. Consistency in the “how” and “where” will make a big difference in the comfort of your load, as well as in the efficiency of how you hunt.

In this video, owner of Exo Mtn Gear, Steve Speck, shows how he packs the K3 3200 for a multiday backpack hunt.

Weight Distribution

You must consider where the heaviest items you are carrying will be loaded in the pack. In general, you want to keep the heaviest items as close to your back as possible, and in the middle to upper-third of the pack, vertically.

Lighter and bulkier items, such as a sleeping bag, should be stored at the bottom of the bag, making a nice “base” to keep heavier items (such as food) propped up in the bag.

This rule of weight distribution is one reason, among many others, that we designed our hydration bladder sleeve at the back of the bag — keeping the weight close to your back. And also why we have an included water bladder hanger, keeping the water in the middle-to-upper section of the pack.

If you position heavier items further away from your back (your center of gravity) it will feel as if the load is “pulling away” from you. And if you have heavy items at the very bottom of the pack, those items can add increased pressure and fatigue to your lower back.

By strategically placing items in the bag to manage weight distribution, your pack will truly feel better than a pack that isn’t loaded properly.

Accessibility

In addition to weight distribution, consider how accessible an item needs to be. Ask yourself, “How often do I need to access this item? When do I need to access this item?”

In the example of your sleep system (sleeping bag, sleeping pad, etc), you should only need to access those items once a day, and specifically at the end of the day. For those reasons, it makes a ton of sense to store them at the bottom of the pack. In comparison, your puffy jacket — much like your sleeping bag — is a light and compressible item, but your jacket may need to be accessed and stored multiple times throughout the day. It wouldn’t make sense to bury your jacket in the pack and have to dig it out of the bottom of the bag when you sit for that morning glassing session after you’ve hiked up a ridge.

Your kill kit (knife, rope, license, etc) is another gear item that you don’t need frequent access to and can be stored out of the way. In contrast, you likely use your stove at least a couple of times each day, so it makes sense to store your stove in an easily accessible location.

Protection

Consider protection “from” as well as protection “for”. Meaning, you need to store some items in a way that protects them FROM other items. For example, in the video, Steve talks about storing his tent stakes separate from his sleeping pad, sleeping bag, and pillow, so that a tent stake can’t accidentally puncture one of those sensitive items.

When it comes to protection “for”, you are ensuring that small items are secured in a way where they won’t get lost. If you just tossed your headlamp in the main area of the pack, it could be difficult to locate, or may get lost when you pull out another item (such as a jacket) and don’t realize that the headlamp fell out of the pack at that time. Our packs feature several pockets that offer protection and dedicated storage for small items, and you can extend that functionality with the secure K3 Stash Pockets.

Consistency

As you spend more time with your pack and gear, you will develop a pack-loading and gear storage strategy that meets your needs and preferences. With time, this consistency will allow you to hunt more efficiently.

You will spend less time loading your pack before the hunt begins. You will spend less time wondering where something is when you need it during the hunt. And you will spend less time getting your gear in order and establishing camp at the end of the day. All of this time and energy saved will allow you to focus on enjoying the hunt itself.

When considering the 8.6 Blackout, the wrong question to ask is “Is it better than what we already have?” The right question to ask is “Is this the coolest cartridge design on the market?” The answer to the first question is “only for specific use cases.” The answer to the second question is, unquestionably, “YES!”

In essence, 8.6 Blackout is designed to shoot heavy .338 caliber bullets at modest supersonic or quiet subsonic speeds for hunting or self defense. The cartridge is unique for its radical 1:3 twist rate which produces extreme rotational energy to aid its terminal performance and allows it to shoot accurately with subsonic ammunition. The design allows for shorter barrels and subsonic ammunition to be used.

Despite its uniqueness, the western hunter will struggle mightily to understand the 8.6 Blackout after seeing the following table.

If you value flat-shooting traditional hunting rounds, then the above table would end your interest in 8.6 Blackout. Then, you see photos like one below, and you say. Wait, what? That guy killed a CAPE BUFFALO with a semi-auto rifle with a tiny 12-inch barrel? Suddenly, any hunter’s interest is piqued.

There are many advantages of the 8.6 Blackout which have never been possible with existing cartridge designs, but they only make sense if you’re willing to take a non-traditional look at what a hunting rifle could become.

Pros and Cons of 8.6 Blackout

Case Design

1 – A typical 6.5 Creedmoor case is the parent case for the 8.6 Blackout

2 – Put a 6.5 Creedmoor case in an 8.6 Blackout reloading die, and drop the press. You end up with a much expanded neck to fit the large bullet, and a shoulder pushed quite a bit lower

3 – Trim the case from step 2, and you have a fully prepared 8.6 Blackout case (that might require some neck turning)

4 – Grab a gigantic bullet to put in your 8.6 Blackout. Notice that this Sierra 225 MatchKing bullet is even longer than the case

5 – A completed 8.6 Blackout cartridge

Comparing 8.6 Blackout to Similar Cartridges

Not surprisingly, the most comparable cartridge to the 8.6 Blackout is its little sister-the .300 Blackout. The .300 Blackout is essentially a .223 case necked up for a giant bullet that allows the cartridge to shoot supersonic or subsonic with heavy-weight penetration.

The 8.6 Blackout essentially accomplishes a similar purpose, but in a much more powerful platform.

Rifles Available in 8.6 Blackout

So far, only three companies produce rifles in the 8.6 Blackout cartridge: Q, Faxon, and Gorilla.

Most people looking to get an 8.6 Blackout rifle will likely end up looking at Faxon Firearms. They make relatively inexpensive barrels for the AR-10 platform (commissions earned). If you already have an AR-10, you can simply screw on one of their barrels and you’re done.

For complete rifles, Faxon has two options: their bolt-action Overwatch, and the AR-10 Sentinel. I personally have their Sentinel AR-10 rifle, and I can confidently say it’s the nicest AR-10 I’ve ever owned.

Q makes high-end rifles with the “cool factor.” They have produced some very innovative suppressors, rifles like “The Fix” and now a cartridge. Looking through their website, the only model I could currently see being produced in 8.6 Blackout is The Fix as a 12″ SBR (meaning you’ll need a tax stamp and enough patience to wait for the ATF).

Gorilla Ammo also produces complete firearms. They have their GF10 Lightweight Hunting Rifle as well as their GF Bolt Action Rifle available in very limited quantities.

Prediction: Will 8.6 Blackout Take Off?

I see 8.6 Blackout is a boutique cartridge.

As a hunting cartridge, it isn’t flat shooting enough to whet the appetite of western hunters. They want cartridges like the new 7mm PRC. Eastern hunters shooting whitetail aren’t exactly clamoring for more power to kill a whitetail. They want cartridges like the 6.5 Creedmoor, or even a lever action 30-30. It frankly isn’t that hard to kill a whitetail at short range. Midwest Hunters are looking to straight-wall cartridges to follow strict state laws.

There is, however, one huge factor that may help to push 8.6 Blackout. It’s the Hornady factor. Hornady manufactures a giant amount of 6.5 Creedmoor ammunition and has worked with Q to produce brass for early production. When Hornady sorts through its backlog, I would expect them to begin producing 8.6 Blackout since they already do production runs for 6.5 Creedmoor brass, and I doubt they’ll miss an opportunity to play with a cartridge that opens up a completely new engineering need for unique bullet designs.

If the last 20 years teaches us anything, it’s that if Hornady touches a cartridge, it’s probably going to take off.

Reloading 8.6 Blackout

Since I had a bucket of 6.5 Creedmoor brass, I chose to convert that brass to 8.6 Blackout rather than waiting for brass to become available. I’m glad I didn’t wait, because it ended up being a rather enjoyable process.

I was informed by others online that Hornady 6.5 Creedmoor brass was the best option for converting, so I blindly obeyed like a sheep.

I used the Lyman dies in 8.6 Blackout which were very inexpensive. I tried other Lyman dies before that I didn’t like, but this one worked out perfectly.

I kept the expander ball in the die and went down slowly into the case, backing off and coming back down every few millimeters since it is quite a stretch from 6.5mm to 8.6mm. It would have been much better to use an expander mandrel and slowly step up each caliber to 8.6mm, but I wasn’t reloading for precision and wanted quicker results.

The brass looked pretty good at this point. The brass around the shoulder had tiny waves, but it was minimal enough for me not to be concerned.

This left a large neck on the case, which I simply ran through my Frankford Arsenal Case Trim and Prep Center to shave down. I used a trim to length of 1.675″ given that the specified case length was 1.685.” I wish there were more detailed reloading data available, but that was my best estimate for a good “trim to” length. Please, however, don’t rely on my data because I’m a layman and not a ballistician.

The next issue is the neck thickness. Unfortunately, my first batch of ammo produced too thick of a neck, so it wouldn’t fully chamber. I highly recommend the Sheridan case gauge checker for 8.6 Blackout, which was recommended to me originally on the AP2020 Youtube channel.

Next, I loaded the case with Accurate 1680 powder, which was a new powder for me. It’s extremely fine-so fine that I found it very difficult to meter and pour because the fine powder would stick in my funnel no matter what I tried.

I followed the load recommendations from Q which are published on the Faxon website. They are included below.

When doing load development, only use information from the powder or firearms manufacturer-not random blogs like this one. Always start load development low when working with supersonic rounds and work up, or vice-versa for subsonic rounds. Do not use this information for developing loads. It is for academic purposes only and may contain errors.

Ask any five deer hunters what the best 308 ammo is for deer and you’ll likely get five different answers. The truth is, there are a lot of excellent deer hunting factory loads for 308 Winchester (308 Win for short) as the round is flat shooting, has amazing stopping power, and you have a wide variety of different bullet profiles to choose from.

However, if you want to ensure that you’re baking Bambi’s backstraps at deer camp instead of tracking blood trails for hours on end…Then you’ve found the right article!

Below you’ll find our top six favorite 308 Win deer hunting loads on the market for 2024. Although this is not a comprehensive list, these selections have proven time and time again to put the venison on your plate instead of bounding into the brush.

If you simply can’t wait, our favorite deer hunting round is Winchester Deer Season XP 150 gr Extreme Point. However, if you want the full list keep on scrolling or if you want to understand what makes for an amazing deer hunting cartridge, then check out our Buyer’s Guide HERE.

Quick Administrative Note: I know you’re ready for the top 6 list and it’s right below. This article is wholly focused on deer hunting, but if you’re looking for the best overall 308 Winchester ammo for hunting and target shooting, then check out this article: The Best 308 Ammo for Hunting and Target Shooting.

The Best 308 Ammo for Deer Hunting Top Picks

1. Winchester Deer Season XP 150 gr Extreme Point
2. Hornady Custom 150 gr SST
3. Black Hills Gold 168 gr TSX
4. Federal Premium 175 gr Terminal Ascent
5. Hornady Precision Hunter 178 gr ELD-X
6. Remington Core-Lokt 180 gr PSP

The Best .308 Ammo for Deer Hunting Overall

Winchester Deer Season XP 150 gr Extreme Point

Specs

• Casing: Brass
• Bullet Type: Extreme Point
• Bullet Weight: 150 gr
• Muzzle Velocity: 2,820 FPS
• Muzzle Energy: 2,648 FT-LBS

Pros

• Optimized polymer tip for ideal penetration and expansion
• Affordable
• Built specifically for deer hunting

Cons

• Results vary depending on the rifle

Why We Chose It

If you’re looking for a premium deer hunting round that has the terminal performance to stop a trophy whitetail or mule deer dead in its tracks, then look no further than Winchester Deer Season XP.

Winchester designed the Deer Season XP line of ammunition with the specific needs of deer hunters in mind. Descended from the legendary Winchester Power Point bullet, the Extreme Point 150-grain bullet offers deep penetration combined with wicked expansion to really quickly and ethically put down any trophy buck that wanders near your tree stand.

The secret to the Extreme Point’s effectiveness is tied to its aerodynamic polymer tip. Not only does it protect the oversized hollow point during chambering, but the tip also initiates expansion immediately when it encounters soft tissue.

This puts down deer fast so long as your shot placement is on point, and with its low price point you’ll have more than enough opportunity to get out to the range and practice those long-range hunting shots.

When you combine all of these qualities together, the result is more venison in your freezer, an amazing rack of antlers on your wall, and a story to tell your hunting buddies that you’ll never forget. And if you want that, then make sure your bolt-action deer hunting rifle is loaded with Winchester Deer Season XP 150 Extreme Point ammo this fall!

Hornady Custom 150 gr SST

Specs

• Casing: Brass
• Bullet Type: Super Shock Tip
• Bullet Weight: 150 gr
• Muzzle Velocity: 2,820 FPS
• Muzzle Energy: 2,648 FT-LBS

Pros

• Loaded with Hornady’s reputation for quality
• Excellent weight retention and terminal performance
• Availability

Cons

• More expensive than Winchester

Why We Chose It

If you plan on hunting medium-sized game and want a round with a flat trajectory and devastating terminal performance, then Hornady Custom 150 gr SST ammo is what you need for your next hunt.

The Hornady SST combines everything hunters love from Hornady’s groundbreaking Interlock Soft Point design and integrates it into a hollow point projectile with a polymer tip to initiate expansion. Upon impact the tip is forced into the hollow point to initiate expansion. delivering tremendous shock to a whitetail and creating a massive wound channel that can put a deer down fast.

The SST bullet utilizes an aerodynamic secant ogive bullet profile for a flatter trajectory, tapered jacket for deep penetration, and the patented Hornady Interlock ring that locks the lead core to the jacket and thereby increasing weight retention.

All in all, the Hornady Custom 150 gr SST is an incredibly close runner-up to our top pick and is only supplanted due to a slightly higher price point. However, given Hornady’s outstanding reputation for loading incredibly accurate and deadly ammo, a slightly higher price is easily justified when you want to make sure that trophy buck ends up on your wall.

Black Hills Gold 168gr TSX

Specs

• Casing: Brass
• Bullet Type: Triple-Shock X
• Bullet Weight: 168 gr
• Muzzle Velocity: 2,650 FPS
• Muzzle Energy: 2,619 FT-LBS

Pros

• Great quality and reputation
• High velocity for its weight
• Triple-Shock X bullet offers excellent expansion and penetration

Cons

• It’s pricey, but it’s also spicy

Why We Chose It

When shooters talk about Black Hills ammo, phrases like “incredibly accurate”, “extremely consistent”, and “excellent terminal ballistics” are commonplace. The Black Hills Gold 168 gr TSX holds true to this legacy and is unquestionably a deer hunting round that should be on your short list to pickup this fall.

Although this offering from Black Hills is firing a heavier bullet than our first two selections, it still maintains a high muzzle velocity and flat trajectory desired for those long range shots.

The Barnes TSX bullet is the heart of this Black Hills Gold factory load, providing unparalleled stopping power and accuracy that is stops whitetail, black bears, feral hogs, and any other 4-legged varmint dead in their tracks.

Machined from a solid piece of copper, Triple-Shock X bullets utilize a traditional hollow point bullet that offers exceptional penetration and expansion that’s needed when taking on big game animals. And as the bullet is lead-free to boot, which means it’s legal for use in states like California.

If you’re familiar with Barnes Bullets and the TSX, you’ll know that it is the big brother to their newer model, the TTSX (Tipped Trippe-Shock X) bullets. Both are excellent hunting bullets, but Black Hills opted to go with the classic model and who can blame them?

We know a lot of people talk about the price of the Black Hills Gold TSX, but when you consider you’re getting an average of 60 pounds of meat for $3, and you don’t have to spend hours tracking an injured Cervidae, it’s more than worth it!

Federal Premium 175 gr Terminal Ascent

Specs

• Casing: Nickel-Plated Brass
• Bullet Type: Terminal Acent
• Bullet Weight: 175gr
• Muzzle Velocity: 2,600 FPS
• Muzzle Energy: 2,627 FT-LBS

Pros

• Bonded construction for high weight retention
• High ballistic coefficient for long range shots
• Designed for excellent expansion at high and low velocity

Cons

• You pay for performance

Why We Chose It

The Federal Terminal Ascent is not only one of the heavier bullets on our list, but it’s an exquisitely designed, polymer-tipped, and high-quality round that feeds well. The nickel-plated brass makes for smooth chambering, and the bonded lead core helps the projectile retain its weight on impact.

Federal designed the Terminal Ascent with its patented Slipstream polymer tip to give the bullet a flatter trajectory (because accuracy is important), but it also helps with low-velocity expansion.

Capable of taking big game animals like elk and caribou, the Federal Premium 175 gr Terminal Ascent is more than capable of taking down any whitetail or mule deer that crosses your path.

This Federal Premium hunting ammo is one deer hunting round that you don’t want to miss when it’s in stock even though it’s a little pricey. But as Federal says on their website regarding Terminal Ascent, “Any hunt. Any range.” And that is performance most hunters are willing to shuck out a few extra shekels for!

Hornady Precision Hunter 178 gr ELD-X

Specs

• Casing: Brass
• Bullet Type: Extremely Low Drag – Expanding
• Bullet Weight: 178 gr
• Muzzle Velocity: 2,600 FPS
• Muzzle Energy: 2,672 FT-LBS

Pros

• Match-grade accuracy and reliability
• Backed by Hornady’s reputation and consistency
• High ballistic coefficient for long-range shots

Cons

• Heavier bullet weight
• Heavier price tag

Why We Chose It

Any competitive shooter will tell you that match ammo is excellent for long range precision shooting, but any hunter will also tell you that match-grade ammo isn’t ethical for hunting deer (or any game, for that matter). Hornady solved this issue by taking the best qualities of their match ammo and combined it with an expanding bullet to create one of the most deadly hunting bullets ever made.

The Hornady ELD-X is one of the top long-range hunting bullets on the market, walking in the same circles as long-time standbys like the Accubond Long Range or Berger VLD.

The Hornady ELD-X integrates many of the same qualities as the SST, which was our #2 pick earlier in this article. It utilizes the Interlock system to keep the lead core and jacket of the bullet intact during expansion as well as a smooth, sleek design with a high ballistic coefficient for long-range accuracy.

Hornady combined their highly concentric AMP bullet jacket technology with their equally impressive Heat Shield tip to create a bullet that is not only streamlined but also extremely deadly.

Although Hornady Precision Hunter ammo is extremely accurate and effective against large game animals, it also carries a price tag to match that performance. However, as most hunters aren’t spending the weekend plinking with their hunting rifle and only need a few boxes of ammo per year, that price tag is well worth the added performance Hornady Precision Hunter 178 gr ELD-X offers.

Remington Core-Lokt 180 gr PSP

Specs

• Casing: Brass
• Bullet Type: Pointed Soft Point (PSP)
• Bullet Weight: 180 gr
• Muzzle Velocity: 2,743 FPS
• Muzzle Energy: 2,620 FT-LBS

Pros

• Affordable and Effective
• Easy to find
• Trusted by generations to bring home the venison

Cons

• Not as accurate as some premium rounds

Why We Chose It

The Remington Core-Lokt 180 gr PSP is the closest thing you’ll get to your Grandpa’s favorite hunting rounds. You don’t get a lot of bells and whistles with these hunting cartridges, but they hit hard and simply get the job done.

Remington designed the Core-Lokt in the late 1930s and has been one of the flagship hunting cartridges for the company ever since. Although it may not be as sleek or accurate as an ELD-X, but the Core-Lokt simply slaps and can easily fell a deer with one bullet with good shot placement.

Combine all this with a price tag every hunter can afford, there’s no way that we couldn’t include this classic big game hunting round.

Parting Shots

The 308 Win has a long and storied history of being an extremely accurate and effective deer hunting round. Picking the best 308 ammo for deer is always something that is a little bit subjective, but if you pick any of the rounds on our top 6 list, we promise you won’t be disappointed.

No matter your preference, do keep in mind that ammo goes fast especially when the leaves start to change colors. When you see a few boxes available, grab them up and put them away for deer season.

You can click HERE to go back to the top of our list or scroll down to our buyer’s guide to learn more about choosing .308 ammo for hunting.

The Best 308 Ammo For Deer Buyer’s Guide

Welcome to our .308 Winchester for deer hunting buyer’s guide! In this section, we’ll review some tips to help you pick out your next favorite deer-hunting bullet. We also have tips to help you pick your next favorite .308 ammo for other hunting and shooting activities.

.308 Winchester Deer Hunting Bullet Types Explained

Finding good deer hunting ammo is pretty easy when you know what to look for. When I first started buying deer hunting ammo (many years ago), I picked up whatever box was cheap and had a picture of a deer on it (let’s be honest, that’s great marketing). Now, as an avid hunter, one of the first things I look at is the bullet type and design.

Bullets react with their targets in different ways depending on their composite and design (this is called terminal ballistics). For example, you’ve probably heard of FMJs (Full Metal Jackets). These rounds have a soft lead core covered with a thin jacket (typically copper), and they’re most useful for target shooting and plinking because they are inexpensive.

FMJ ammo is great for a fund day at the range, but they don’t expand on impact when they impact soft tissue. Despite the muzzle velocity, trajectory, and ballistic coefficient, these bullets aren’t going to create a wound channel sufficient enough to ethically take down large to medium sized game like whitetail deer or feral hogs.

Now you might think that hollow point bullets are the way to go for deer hunting, but this is also a misconception. Although jacketed hollow points are excellent for self-defense handgun ammo, they simply aren’t great for deer hunting. Most hollow point rifle bullets are match-grade (like the Sierra Matchking) and designed for long range shooting and accuracy.

Accuracy is definitely important when you line up your sights on a trophy buck. But since match ammo doesn’t offer any advantages in terminal ballistics over FMJ ammo, they simply aren’t appropriate for deer hunting.

So, the only suitable hunting ammo types are bullets that reliably expand when they encounter a big game animal. These bullets types include Soft Points, Polymer Tips, SSTs (Super Shock Tip), ballistic tips, PSP (pointed soft point), or something like the Nosler Partition.

.308 Deer Hunting Rifle and Ammo Tips

Rifle selection is an important part of deer hunting, as you need to make sure that your rifle can deliver your hunting bullets to where they need to go.

You don’t need the hottest hunting rifle on the market to put down big game, regardless of what the kind salesperson behind the gun counter tells you. Your great uncle’s Ruger Hawkeye bolt-action rifle, Granddad’s sketchy Henry 30-30 lever action rifle (speaking from experience here), or the hottest semi-automatics can all equally put deer on your kitchen table.

No matter your rifle preference, there are some things that you should know about finding the perfect cartridge to drop a mule deer on the spot.

As mentioned previously, you’ll want to get out to the range before deer season. Most factory loads (and even hand loads) perform differently depending on the rifle. These variations are further exacerbated by varying twist rates and casings.

If you love to hunt, you should love to go target shooting too. Shot placement is just as important as terminal ballistics, so pick up a few boxes of .308 ammo from different manufacturers, and get out to the range to find out which ones are most accurate in your chosen hunting rifle.

Naturally, you’ll also want to keep your rifle clean and in good working order. A rifle you don’t take care of will not take care of you (or any wild game hunting). This tip also includes taking great care of your scope (hence, also getting out to the range).

Another thing to consider when using the .308 Winchester for deer hunting is distance. The options listed above tend to perform well within 400 yards. But before you take those long-range shots, ensure your rifle and ammo will perform adequately.

Different cartridges will have different effective ranges when it comes to deer hunting. Rounds like the 30-06 Springfield and 6.5 Creedmoor have different trajectories and terminal performance compared to the 308 Win, so it’s important to understand your rifle, cartridge, and their capabilities before you ever set foot in the woods.

Frequently Asked Questions

There’s a lot that goes into hunting, ammo, and your rifle. If we didn’t cover all of your burning questions above, hang out with us for a few more minutes, and we’ll answer your most frequently asked questions.

Is this .308 ammo good for bears too?

The .308 Winchester is an excellent cartridge for black bear and is more effective than handguns for bear defense. There are multiple rounds that are effective against black bear like the Barnes VOR-TX or Nosler’s Accubond that are perfectly suited if you actively choose to pick a fight with Baloo.

Is there a difference between the .308 Norma Magnum and the .308 Winchester?

Yes, the .308 Norma Magnum uses a 338 Win Mag case necked down to fire a .30 caliber projectile. Essentially, the 308 Norma Magnum has a larger case and is more powerful than the .308 Winchester.

What does a boat tail do?

A boat tail helps a bullet reduce drag, giving it a flatter trajectory and making it less susceptible to wind deflection. This makes the bullet more aerodynamic and increases the ballistic coefficient.

Can I use the 5.56 NATO or .223 for deer hunting?

Many states prohibit the use of 5.56 NATO or 223 Remington for deer hunting. However, the bullets like a Federal Fusion or Trophy Bonded can be effective against deer when fired from a 223.

Can I buy .308 Winchester deer hunting ammo in bulk?

Absolutely! If you want to stock up, we have a lot of bulk .308 Winchester ammo available. Look for the Soft Point, PSP, or Winchester Power Point.

Back to the Best .308 Deer Hunting Ammo

Now that you have a better understanding of the .308 Winchester and the best deer-hunting ammo click HERE to go back to our favorite 308 deer hunting cartridges!

We’re not sure if Bob Carnes knew what he had immediately when he created the Arkie Jig. But we do know what he had was something incredibly special to bass fishing. Carnes was building baits in Arkansas and was looking for a way to make jigs more weedless and attractive to bass. He thought if he could make a balanced head for his bucktail jigs and add a brush guard to protect the hook he could fish his jig in more places.

He saw a TV show where they were using a jig with a fiberguard. At the time he was looking at wire guards for his jigs but the demand for the fiberguard after that TV show aired forced his hand, and he had to figure out a way to mold a fiberguard into leadhead. All the while he was tweaking on the shape of the head to keep it from snagging. It started more like a banana head, then he shortened it and flattened and widened it to make keep it level and upright which was critical to avoiding snags.

Once he got the jig head design and fiberguard correct he began tying the first jigs with bucktail. But he saw the Gilmore Lure Company Spinnerbait had some sort of rubber bands hanging off of it. He wasn’t sure what it was exactly or even how to get a hold of the rubber. He knew underwear had elastic in it as did women’s girdles. They actually traced the girdle’s rubber back to a rubber company and got them to color some rubber for them.

The rest as they say is history, but the lasting effect of some simple necessity has continued for more than 50 years. A skirted snagless jig has arguably won more national tournaments than any other lure. There for a time in the 80s, every tournament of any significance was being won on them. In the early days of the B.A.S.S. Tour, there were something like five tournaments in a row won on Carnes jigs and no one told anyone. They were keeping it secret.

Bo Dowden won the Classic in 1980 on a brown and orange Arkie Jig and the boom for Carnes’s snagless jig was going full steam ahead. The jig was carried in Walmart Stores in the early 70s when it was still just a regional chain. And after word spread and Walmart grew, access to his Arkie jig was much easier.

Now just about every jig manufacturer and component shop carries the Arkie style head for flipping. It was a lasting innovation that is every bit as good today as it was 50 years ago.

Our Skirted Jig Reviews

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• Nichols Lures Skipper Jig
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• Strike King Hack Attack Fluoro Flip Jig
• Z-Man CrosseyeZ Flipping Jig
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• Buckeye Balling Out Jig
• Strike King Tour Grade Skipping Jig
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• M-Pack Lures Football Jig
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For well over 100 years the most popular configuration in a lever action is a .30-30 caliber carbine with a handy, maneuverable 20-inch barrel. But a few years ago, it looked like the era of readily available lever actions was over as Winchester closed its doors and Marlin experienced production delays after it manufacturing facilities were relocated.

For a while Mossberg was about the only source for a hunting-ready lever action .30-30 with its Model 464, although Winchester and Marlin are now back in the fold as well. So for those of you pining for a new all-American hunting tool, here’s a head-to-head performance review featuring a classic .30-30 carbine from each.

When requesting test samples, I specified 20-inch barrels in .30-30 Win. caliber, in a standard configuration without bells and whistles. Marlin sent its Model 336C, which the company considers its flagship lever action. Although it has several nice but subtle features such as checkering and a grip cap, it’s not fancy. In fact, it’s the second least expensive model the company offers. A thin rubber buttpad does little to dampen recoil but prevents the rifle from slipping and clattering to the tile floor when it’s propped in the kitchen corner. Capable sights, decent straight-grain walnut and a satin metal finish complete the package.

Mossberg provided a sample of its pistol-gripped Model 464. Like the Marlin, it features checkered walnut stocks and a thin rubber buttpad. Sights feature fiber-optic inserts, which are helpful in low light but less robust than simple steel sights. One Model 464 costs less – the straight-gripped version without checkering or fiber optics – but only by $37. The nicer version is worth the dollars.

After the first Winchester I received wouldn’t accept a scope, I swapped it for the 94 Short Rifle, which has the same 20-inch barrel as the carbine but sports a steel fore-end cap and optic compatibility for a measly $30 more. A traditional (and slippery) plastic buttplate graces the carbine, and the clean, straight-grain walnut stocks are free of checkering.

To give each .30-30 carbine a fair and equal shake, I mounted matching Leupold VX-3 2.5-8x32mm riflescopes for accuracy testing. The slim little optic is one of my favorites for any quick-handling, lightweight hunting rifle, and it’s particularly suitable for a lever gun.

I also used Leupold hardware to mount the scopes. Putting an optic on the Marlin was painless. I simply screwed down the mount, installed the rings and leveled up the scope before torqueing the screws to spec.

The Mossberg was equally easy; once I’d obtained the correct bases. Oddly, the carbine takes two of the front bases intended for a Winchester. Once that dilemma was solved and the duplicate hardware obtained, the Leupold mounted up beautifully.

The Winchester base protrudes forward and partially blocks the ejection port, and I was initially concerned it would interfere with ejection, but both empty cases and unfired cartridges ejected without argument. However, all things considered, a pair of No. 403 Weaver cross-slot bases is an easier solution.

With Winchester 94 Short Rifle, the bases and rings screwed into place perfectly. With only low rings on hand, I had to finesse the optic to just the right spot to prevent interference with the rear sight. Medium-height rings would work better unless a scope without a belled objective housing was used.

What with barrel bands, weighty magazine tubes hanging from slender barrels and fore-ends that are anything but free-floated, I suppose it would be kinder to allow one’s .30-30 carbine to cool between groups, but lever actions are often shot fast and frequently, and I wanted to see how well they held their point of impact and accuracy. So I fired three consecutive three-shot groups with each type of ammunition without pause except to reload. I did allow the carbines to cool thoroughly between ammo types.

To my surprise, accuracy didn’t deteriorate materially as the barrels heated, and in the case of the Winchester – which started out good – accuracy got even better. Nor did point of impact wander appreciably.

Also surprising is that the Winchester averaged the best overall accuracy. Many Marlin aficionados will boast that rifles from their favored company will outshoot the average Winchester, but in these new-made lever guns the Winchester ruled. Although each of the other two produced sub-two-m.o.a. averages with one type of ammunition, the Winchester scored sub-two-m.o.a. with two of the three types of test ammo.

As you’ll see by perusing the accuracy charts, the Marlin preferred Barnes VOR-TX 150-grain TSX ammo, the Mossberg shot the Hornady LeverEvolution 160-grain Flex-Tip best, and the Winchester – perhaps appropriately – shot Winchester 170-grain Power-Point into tidy groups indeed. It fact, it shaded just outside of one m.o.a., eyebrow-raising accuracy from a lever gun.

It’s interesting to note that the faster-twist rifles, the Marlin and the Mossberg, shot bullets in the lighter-weight range better, while the Winchester’s slower 1:12 twist provided best accuracy with the heavier 170-grain bullets. That’s counterintuitive to conventional bullet-stabilizing expectations – until you factor in the extra length of the all-copper Barnes 150-grain TSX and the boattailed, polymer-tipped Hornady 160-grain Flex-Tip. Although the 170-grain Winchester is heavier, its flat-nosed, flat-base, lead-core design makes it easy to stabilize.

I also tested for reliability. Why? As one buddy would put it, “There’s a picture of a lever action beside the definition of ‘reliability’ in the dictionary.” Perhaps I have an extraordinary ability to make things malfunction and break, but I’ve used lots of gun designs that should never jam yet they do. So as I shot the three lever guns, I kept track.

Only two hiccups stood out. One was minor: The Marlin was stubborn to load. Not that the cartridges stuck, but the loading gate was really tigh,t and the path into the tubular magazine felt rough as the rounds were thumbed in.

The other issue occurred with the Mossberg. After each empty was ejected and the lever was closing, the new cartridge heading into the chamber tended to hang up halfway in. A quick joggle on the lever usually resulted in its letting go and chambering easily, but at least twice it stuck hard, requiring me to finger it out and start over.

By very design a lever action should run fast and smooth, so I couldn’t really ignore the problem. However, it’s worth noting I’ve had considerable experience with Mossberg’s Marinecote 464 – an early weather-resistant iteration now discontinued – and it ran like greased lightning.

As for the Model 94, it loaded, fed and fired in stellar fashion – just as one would expect from the highest-selling lever-action model (more than 7 million units) in history.

With accuracy testing complete, I spent some time shooting each of the lever-action carbines casually, thumping distant large targets, shooting at smaller ones up close, and levering fast shots into a half-bushel box at about 25 yards as quickly as I could. Which leads us to the way they feel.

All three carbines balance beautifully in the hands, are responsive in the extreme, and shoulder and point nicely. Decades ago — after mankind’s primary mode of transportation shifted away from horseback — Marlin beefed-up the fore-ends of its carbines. As a result, trying to push one into a saddle

scabbard sucks, but they feel good in the support hand and point more naturally than their more slender cousins. I’ve always thought the fat fore-ends look ugly and don’t feel right to me, but in fairness I must admit they do rest comfortably in the hand.

While bead front sights were once popular for deep-woods, fast-and-close shooting, I grew up shooting match-type post front sights and struggle to achieve consistency with a bead. However, they are traditional, and many shooters do well with them.

The only real ergonomic issue I encountered with any of the three carbines was with the Mossberg’s lever, and it was a result of the wood-to-metal fit along the lower tang behind the trigger, where the wood stands considerably proud. Like the Winchester, the Mossberg features a trigger block activated by opening the lever. To fire, the lever must be squeezed

completely closed, and occasionally when I squeezed it the lever it pinched a fold of skin from the fleshy lower part of my birdy finger. It got my attention, I can tell you.

I despise any sort of safety other than a half-cock notch on a lever action, but they appear to be here to stay. There’s nothing worse than squeezing a trigger on a good buck and hearing the horrible loud “click” that signifies your failure to disengage the safety. You’ve then got to ear the hammer back again (another click), thumb the safety off (and yet another click) and hope against hope you can get another crack at the buck.

Complaints registered, I prefer the tang-located safeties of the Winchester and Mossberg to the crossbolt safety of the Marlin. They are much easier to access without shifting your firing-hand grip. However, the actual safety slide on the Mossberg is made of plastic, and I don’t think plastic belongs on a lever action.

When it comes to fit and finish, I’ll just come right out and say the Winchester Model 94 has the best

wood-to-metal fit, and the high gloss blue on the metal parts is both superbly beautiful and appropriate. It will shrug off corrosion more easily than a coarser finish, too. As for the walnut stocks, the finish is simple and non-shiny. A bit better filling in the wood pores and a few coats of hand-rubbed oil would bring out the depth and beauty of the wood better, but there’s nothing ugly about it as is.

Next best on the fit and finish scale is the Marlin. Wood-to-metal seams aren’t perfect by any means, but they’re respectable, and the metal has a nice brushed satin finish. The wood is finished in a spray-on varnish, a durable option.

Finally, the Mossberg features a brushed satin finish similar to that of the Marlin. It offers respectably tight wood-to-metal joints, but in most areas the wood stands a bit too proud for my taste. In the lower tang area mentioned earlier, it creates a bit of discomfort. On a favorable note, I prefer the Mossberg’s slender fore-end to the bulky fore-end of the Marlin, and the reddish stain on the well-filled walnut is very attractive.

This isn’t really an apples-to-apples comparison because you can literally purchase two of the Marlin or Mossberg rifles for the cost of one Winchester. As you’ve seen throughout the evaluation, the Winchester consistently outperforms the other two, which makes good sense: If you’re going to pay that much more you should get more performance.

Candidly, I didn’t expect it to turn out that way. You pay a good deal for the Winchester Model 94 name, and, conversely, Marlin rifles have an outstanding reputation for offering tremendous performance for the dollar. Frankly, I expected the two to run neck and neck through most of the tests.

The takeaway? If you like fine rifles and want one superb, classic, historical tool that will offer the utmost performance of its genre, pony up the money for a Winchester Model 94.

If, on the other hand, you want the allure of a lever action coupled with a more practical price tag, opt for either of the other two. The Marlin is an established name in lever actions, and features an action legendary for strength and smooth operation, but the Mossberg runs about $100 less. You won’t go wrong with either.