The real secret to catching more fish is knowledge! The more you know, the more fish you’ll catch. These Northern Pike ice fishing tips and techniques are proven winners.

Love ’em or hate ’em, if you’re ice fishing, you’re likely to run into some Northern Pike. Near the top of the food chain in nearly any lake they inhabit, these aggressive fish can be a ton of fun to catch! And, once you get past the slime and the Y-bone their good eating too.

If you want to catch more Northern Pike the two most important keys are location and presentation. You could have the most appealing bait in the world but if there aren’t any fish around it’s going to be a looong day. And, not catching a thing while everyone else around you is catching fish can be really frustrating. What you present to the fish is just as important as finding them.

The information found here is best used along with some investigative work done by you. Finding out what the Department of Natural Resources says about a lake and talking to local anglers, especially at the bait shop, can save you a ton of time finding the fish and knowing what they’re biting on.

Northern Pike have very good vision but limited night vision. Unlike most other fish species Northern Pike remain active in the winter and are primarily caught during broad daylight.

Northern Pike Ice Fishing Location

Northern Pike location is often dictated by their belly. They don’t swim in schools and can usually be found relating to the same types of lake structure as their next meal.

Structure like points, breaks, rock piles and humps are classic examples of structure that will have Northerns in close proximity.

In shallow water Northern Pike usually cruise about mid depth but as the water becomes deeper they tend to hang closer to the bottom.

During early ice Northern Pike can be found in fairly shallow water accompanied by weed edges, points and bars. Combined with inside turns or other structure is even better.

As winter progresses Northern Pike follow the food and move further out. Start by fishing outside weed edges and offshore humps and bars.

As spring nears Northern Pike begin moving shallower again into pre spawn areas. Besides shoreline points and breaks, look for them near river mouths.

Before we switch gears and talk about presentation, remember locating the fish is half the battle. Don’t just drill one hole in 10 ft of water next to a point. Instead drill several holes in varying depths and find the fish.

Using modern electronics can also help you find fish faster. Depth, fish and structure can all be seen using a flasher (Vexilar or Marcum).

Northern Pike Ice Fishing Presentation

OK, you’ve found the Northern Pike, now let’s look at some effective techniques to get them on the ice!

The most common way to ice fish for Northern Pike is by using Tip-ups. This ice fishing contraption is simple and effective.

More Northern Pike have probably been caught using a treble hook and a sucker minnow on a Tip-up then any other method.

Generally the bigger the Pike you’re after the larger the minnow you’ll want to use. I generally use a medium sucker minnow or smelt in the 6-8 inch range. Push the eye of the treble hook up through the belly of the smelt.

Most ice fishermen can attest that they’ve caught Northern Pike while jigging for other species of fish. Even the smallest lures have been known to produce Northerns, only because they’ll eat nearly anything you place in front of them.

Jigging has become a popular method for catching Northern Pike as well. Most likely this is because they’re more fun to fight using normal ice fishing equipment than with a Tip-up.

Jigging for Northern is basically raising your rod tip a foot or more, then dropping it back down to its starting position.

When choosing tackle to jig for Northern Pike you’ll use the same types of lures used for Walleye, only bigger in most cases. My favorite type is the sinking lure or spoon.

Sinking lures include the Live Target Golden Shiner Rattlebait and Dynamic Lures HD-Ice and nobody makes a better spoon than Len Thompson and their Dimpled Series spoon where added indents cause a lot more action has you move the rod tip up and down.

Sinking baits and spoons are great for more aggressive Northern Pike. Usually I put a minnow head on one of the treble hook barbs and start by fishing with one of these.

Hopefully you’ve found something new to try in these Northern Pike ice fishing tips and techniques that will help you ice more fish.

What most people consider luck is usually a combination of preparation and practice so get out there and enjoy the practice.

Looking to venture to a new species check out our 5 Tips for Catching Walleye through the Ice.

It’s important to stay warm and comfortable weather it be open water fishing or ice fishing. For that head over to our Elite Fishing Apparel section.

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Try our RLM Elite Mystery Tackle Box available now for a limited time! The perfect gift for the angler in your life

LAST UPDATED: May 8th, 2015

Wow, this is a turkey to be proud of… A new world record! Congratulations Todd Pringnitz. I was just surfing the web and found his site and story about his new world record turkey. Here it is:

For many turkey hunters, the thought of a world record animal must occupy their brains much like the elusive giant whitetail bucks that I have been dreaming about my whole life. In all the thoughts that have entered my brain, shooting a world record turkey was the farthest thing from my mind when my good buddy Dan Johnson and I headed to our Bale Blind on the afternoon of April 13th.

I’ve turkey hunted the last few years without any-luck. My only previous experience having any sort of encounter with a tom turkey would be in my back yard back in my home state of Michigan. I somehow found a way to miss a tom turkey at about 8 feet. Needless to say, I didn’t exactly have a huge goal going into this turkey season. In-fact, I would have been pumped to kill any tom turkey with my bow! If it happened on video that would just have been an added bonus. I mean we’re whitetail video producers right?

Thankfully, the persistence of my good friend Dallas Ft. Worth to film my first few hunts of the season would end up being one of the best things to ever happen in my life. Our hunt started earlier in the year when while shed hunting I happened to find my long-lost decoy laying under a bunch of brush out in my CRP field. I remembered the location, and figured I’d grab it the first day I headed into the field turkey hunting. Thankfully I grabbed it a few days before I started hunting because there was an ant nest inside of it, and they were biters! I hosed it out, but didn’t have the stake to hold it in the ground. After digging through my old arrow pile, I found an arrow that would work just fine.

Throughout our first afternoon in the field, Dallas and I filmed a giant tom working the opposite side of the corn field as us. We called at the tom several times, but despite his gobbling and strutting action, he just wouldn’t come closer. I still considered this pretty darned cool because he was definitely a mature tom turkey, and we got some footage of him.

The following afternoon would find Dallas and myself back into the same Bale Blind in-hopes of seeing the giant tom from the day before. When putting out the decoy, we actually busted a hen from the field, so we didn’t even know if we would be seeing much. Within a few minutes, Dallas was performing his “box call magic”, and the wait was on.

About 45 minutes later, we saw a tom turkey enter the field. It was clear that he was a pig of a turkey, but he was leading a hen. He would work up to about 30 yards in-front of her, and then strut back. I honestly didn’t think he was going to come close because he was entertaining the hen. He worked back and forth within about 60 yards, and started circling parallel to us in the blind. With a hen decoy in-front of the blind, we called a little here and there to try to get his attention enough so that he would see the decoy.

With an occasional view of his strutting fan through the standing corn, he started coming closer to the opening in-front of our blind. I was very aware of the distances and shooting arrangement because we had been deer hunting from the same set-up this past late deer season here in Iowa. I knew if he was in the opening, he was within 40 yards, which was a bad place for him to be. He started working closer and seemed like he was committed to coming into the decoy.

This is a picture of the giant turkey entering the field. My first thoughts were “he’s a shooter”…

As he entered the opening, the old tom was clearly a giant turkey. Even though this tom was interested in the hen decoy, he seemed very cautious. He stayed out at a 35-40 yard parameter around the decoy and our bale blind, never coming closer to investigate the mangy looking hen with arrow fletching strangely sticking through the top of her back.

This shows my not-so-fancy decoy set-up in-front of our blind with the big tom circling at 35 yards…

In the back of my mind throughout these moments was the “Shipwreck” encounter that we had in the same corn field only a few months earlier. “Shipwreck” was the 190 class giant I had at 35 yards from a ground blind and I just couldn’t get a shot into him. With the same exact type of “cautious investigation” as the “Shipwreck” encounter, I wasn’t about to make the same mistake again. With the tom starting to walk back to the hen he was tending, I committed to the 35 yard walking shot and came to full-draw. A quick check with Dallas behind the camera, my anchor was locked, and an arrow was soon in-flight “tom-ward bound”.

This is when the tom started heading back toward the other hen in the field. It was now or never!

Of all the arrows I’ve ever release, boy am I glad this one was true. I hit the tom pretty-much dead-center of his body with a loud “thwack”. Dallas started screaming “you smoked him – you smoked him” and I couldn’t believe I had just shot my first tom turkey. After talking a short bit in the blind, we wanted to go track the bird and make certain he was done. After walking across the field, we saw the turkey and he was still alive. After making a quick stalk, I was able to center another arrow through the bird as he started his “death flap”.

This is Dallas and I in the bale blind just after the shot…

Still not knowing we had just shot the world record, Dallas and I were most concerned with putting the beautiful bird out of his misery. It wasn’t until I peeled back the feathers on his chest when all the beards separated and one after another was visible. My trembling hands sifted through the beards trying to keep track of them as they counted of. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and finally 6 beards were exposed and I couldn’t believe my eyes. I’d seen and heard of multiple bearded turkeys, but 6 wasn’t something I’d ever heard of. I proclaimed to Dallas; “I just shot a 200 class Boone and Crocket Turkey Dude”…. Yeah, I still had no idea.

Here is a picture I took of the beards in my hand after just realizing the turkey was a multi-bearded freak bird!

After taking our trophy pictures and making some phone calls, things started to take a turn to the ridiculous. I was SO excited to have killed this tom, I swear I don’t think I would have been any-more excited knowing what I had really just shot. Anyone who has seen our deer hunting videos before already knows what I’m talking about. I can shoot a doe and nearly start crying. Ok, maybe not that bad – but it’s pretty embarrassing I can tell you! This is no exception, but it is what it is. I’m not going to apologize for being myself. Ok, I apologize for those who don’t “get me” because sometimes I hate watching my own stuff!

Sitting in a Huntmore chair that I was fortunate enough to engineer for Huntmore owner Scott Hoffman; well, this is the best testing we can do. Pretty cool I get to combine my skills of product design with my passion for hunting. I’m a very fortunate guy to have Scott many years ago on a hunt in Effingham, Illinois!

Chris Brackett (Arrow Afflictions) was the first guy who let me know exactly what I had shot in his way “You idiot, you just shot a state record or something”. After sending him a cell picture of the beard he replied, “You just shot the new world record, you XXXXX”… I think you get the idea.

This is the Blind Ambitions Bale Blind that we used for this set-up. It worked perfectly!

After doing some “we don’t know how to properly measure turkeys – measuring”, we came to the conclusion that this indeed could be the new world record turkey. By this point all Dallas and I could do is laugh. I mean seriously; I’ve spent the last 22 years of my life basically “living for whitetails”. Every waking second of every single day I spend dreaming of bucks, planning, and working for the upcoming season. As soon as one is complete, we’re already working on the next aspect of our year-around pursuit.

Here’s another picture of the Iowa freaks beard.

The only comparison I can make is to the 12 year old that goes out for the first time bowhunting and shoots a 200 class whitetail. I indeed was just that of the turkey world, and I knew things would never be the same. With that being said, I’ve hunted hard enough over the past many years to realize there is always an element of “luck” in any hunt. I always considered all of my luck to be “made”. In this particular case however, it was not only luck, it was dumb luck! What do you do, every serious turkey hunter is probably going to hate me, but I guess there’s nothing I can do about that now.

The turkey was officially scored by Hazel Creek Taxidermy; and has been entered as the new archery World Record for the Eastern turkey in the NWTF record books. The entire experience has been eye-opening to say the least. I’d just like to thank the NWTF and Hazel Creek Taxidermy for their help with this unknown world of turkey hunting that I have just been thrust into. They have all been just awesome! Most of all, I want to thank my good friend, team member, and cameraman Dan Johnson (Dallas Ft. Worth). Without you brother, we wouldn’t have this experience documented to share with the entire world! The turkey and sport deserves it, and without you this would never have been possible. So, thank you so-so much dude! To think that a 9-fingered guy would film the new world record turkey kill – well, I don’t think you’re missing right index finger would have ever imagined. Definitely not right now anyway.

I would never have imagined in a million years that I would ever be “that guy”. Now that it’s done, I just can’t wait to share the story with everyone. I can only imagine how many “shaking heads” there will be when watching me completely not realize what I have just shot. To those guys, believe me, I feel your pain! With that being said, I’m not going to complain about being “that guy”…

My World Record Archery Eastern Tom Turkey had over 49” of combined beard length. He weighed 25.9 pounds, and had 1-1/4” spurs. He scored 149.6875 which beat the previous record of 139.2400. It could be broken tomorrow, but for the moment it’s pretty cool! Good luck to all the turkey hunters out there! Looks like I’ve got a new spring activity to get serious about. Unfortunately, it’s all down-hill from here!

With its high degree of accuracy, robustness, and modularity, the AXSR is a rifle that any military or law enforcement sniper would trust.

Barrett 82A1 / M107A1

The Barrett 82A1 and its sibling, the M107A1, are legendary semi-automatic sniper rifles famous for their .50 BMG caliber. These American-made rifles are noted for their devastating power and impressive, effective range of about 2,000 meters. The 82A1 has accounted for some of the longest confirmed sniper shots in history – including a hit made by Sergeant Brain Kremer in 2004 during the Iraq War at a range of 2,300 meters.

After years of successful service, the M107A1 was developed based on the feedback of US service members. As a result, the M107A1 features a recoil-mitigating design and a dual-chamber muzzle brake to help manage the substantial kick. The 107A1 shares many of the 82A1’s characteristics but is built with a lighter and stronger aluminum chassis and designed for a dedicated suppressor.

In service since the 1980s, the 82A1 and M107A1 have been adopted by numerous NATO countries and continue to be a powerhouse platform for elite military units around the globe.

Barrett Mk22 MRAD:

The Barrett Mk22 Multi-Role Adaptive Design (MRAD) is in a new class of military sniper platforms. Its defining feature is adaptability, allowing for an array of configurations to suit a multitude of operational requirements. This flexibility is primarily why it was chosen as the current contract winner for the US Special Operations Command’s Advanced Sniper Rifle (ASR) and US Army Precision Sniper Rifle (PSR).

One of the key features of the Mk22 MRAD is its user-changeable barrel system. This allows the sniper to quickly and easily switch between calibers and barrels in the field depending on the mission’s needs, including the .338 Norma Magnum, .300 Norma Magnum, and 7.62x51mm NATO rounds.

In terms of performance, the MRAD is known for its superb accuracy, making it a reliable choice in various combat scenarios. For example, its effective range with .338 Norma Magnum rounds is up to 1,500 meters, while with .300 Norma Magnum, it can accurately engage targets up to 1,200 meters.

In summary, the Barrett Mk22 MRAD is not just a sniper rifle; it’s a comprehensive, adaptable system that provides military snipers the flexibility to adjust to rapidly changing battlefield conditions. Its impressive accuracy, versatility, and adaptability make it one of the finest military sniper rifles in operation today.

Mcmillan TAC-50:

The McMillan Tac-50, often referred to as the “Big Mac,” is a powerhouse in the world of sniper rifles. This bolt-action rifle is designed for pin-point precision and is most famous for its record-breaking long-range shot in a combat scenario.

Chambered in the potent .50 BMG caliber, the Tac-50 is not just a sniper rifle; it’s an anti-materiel rifle capable of disabling light vehicles and equipment at long distances. This makes it a versatile tool on the battlefield, able to engage personnel and material targets.

Key elements of the Tac-50’s design encompass its match-grade 29-inch free-floating barrel and the high-quality McMillan action, both of which significantly contribute to its extraordinary accuracy. The rifle also features a recoil-absorbing fiberglass chassis, making the shooting experience more manageable despite the potent round it sends down range.

The Tac-50 has seen service with the Canadian Armed Forces, where it is known as the C15 Long Range Sniper Weapon (LRSW). In this role, it has repeatedly proven its worth, including the longest confirmed sniper kill shot in history — a remarkable 3,540 meters achieved in Iraq in 2017.

The McMillan Tac-50 represents a culmination of precision engineering and practical design. It’s a weapon that offers extreme range, devastating power, and a high degree of accuracy, standing as one of the world’s most effective long-range military sniper rifles.

M24 Sniper Weapon System (SWS)

The M24 Sniper Weapon System (SWS), a mainstay of the US Army, is a testament to the effectiveness of well-executed traditional design principles. Based on the Remington 700 long action, this bolt-action sniper rifle has served US military snipers for decades and continues proving its worth in various conflict zones worldwide.

Initially chambered in 7.62x51mm NATO, the M24 SWS was designed for accuracy, reliability, and ease of use. The choice of this caliber provided a good balance of power, range, and recoil management. However, many M24s have been rechambered to the more powerful .300 Winchester Magnum to increase its effective range, extending its reach beyond 1,200 meters.

While not as fancy as some of the other rifle systems discussed, the M24 is a proven platform and a formidable tool in the hands of a trained marksman. It offers a blend of accuracy, power, and reliability, making it a trusted choice for the US military, earning its place as one of the best military sniper rifles in service.

Knight’s Armament M110 SASS

The Knight’s Armament M110 Semi-Automatic Sniper System (SASS) is a notable piece of military hardware that is a trusted platform with various special forces units due to its combination of accuracy, power, reliability, and rate of fire.

The M110 SASS is a semi-automatic sniper rifle that allows for a higher rate of fire and increased magazine capacity compared to traditional bolt-action systems. This feature is particularly valuable in high-intensity special forces operations where rapid engagement of multiple targets may be necessary.

Chambered in 7.62x51mm NATO, the M110 SASS’s standard kit includes a Leupold 3.5x10x scope, Harris bipod, night vision optic, and dedicated suppressor.

In terms of accuracy, the M110 SASS is capable of impressive precision. With an effective range of around 800 meters, it allows special forces snipers to confidently engage targets at extended ranges.

In summary, the Knight’s Armament M110 SASS, with its semi-automatic firing mechanism, suppressor compatibility, and adaptability to various accessories, has proven to be an invaluable asset for military units. Its blend of accuracy, power, and versatility makes it a preferred choice for those who operate in the most demanding and high-stakes environments.

Final Thoughts:

Each of these sniper systems carries a unique set of capabilities tailored to specific mission requirements and environments. Whether it’s the adaptability of the Barrett Mk22 MRAD, the long-range accuracy of the McMillan Tac-50, or the rapid-fire capabilities of the M110 SASS, these rifles underscore the diverse challenges and demands of modern military operations.

Other notable mentions include:

Mcmillian TAC-300 SAKO TRG M10 Hecker & Koch M110A2 Mk 13 Mod 0/5/7 Accuracy International AS50

Ultimately, the best military sniper rifle depends on the mission, the environment, and the sniper’s skill. What’s undeniable is that these rifles, each impressive in their own right, represent the leading edge of design and performance in the realm of precision marksmanship. They serve as a testament to human ingenuity and play a crucial role in shaping the outcome of conflicts worldwide.

Many of these exceptional rifle platforms are accessible to civilians and available from companies like Hinterland Outfitters and other online dealers. Long-range shooting has become a popular sport in the outdoors industry. It tests precision, patience, and technical knowledge, offering enthusiasts a challenging yet rewarding way to hone their marksmanship skills over extended distances.

T2019 archery tournaments are in full speed, and you might be wondering the equipment that’s being used in the highest levels of competition. Improve your overall accuracy and competitive-edge with these top compound target bows.

Mathews – TRX 38

Built off of the proven design of the longer TRX models, the 38 inch axle-to-axle TRX38 fills the void perfectly for shooters looking for a shorter, lighter, more comfortable bow for their draw length. Draw lengths range 23 inches to 30 inches and draw weight goes from 50 pounds up to 70 pounds on the TRX 38. The new 70V percent mod gives shooters a deeper valley while the 80 and standard 70 percent mods remain an option. A true-center nocking point ensures straight and level nock travel, further enhancing shot-to-shot consistency and a 7.5-inch brace height provides unmatched forgiveness. Learn more at Mathews’ website.

Xpedition – Perfexion XL

The Perfexion XL brings to bear the full scope of Xpedition’s aerospace pedigree to influence archery design and unparalleled precision manufacturing. The Perfexion XL’s features the PXT dual limb stop hybrid cam with an unprecedented 6” of draw length adjustment on one base cam, ½” modular draw adjustment and Xpedition’s signature adjustability. The Perfexion XL is fast enough for 3D in spite of its 8” plus brace height, yet still prioritizes the smooth draw that target archers require. Its rigid riser defies flex and recovers with the consistency that had previously been reserved for shoot through designs. It is engineered and assembled to make scores climb and X rings easier to hit. Learn more at Xpedition Archery’s website.

Martin – Axxon 36

The Martin Axxon 36 features the new Tri Loc system. The Tri Loc Axle Cap allowing calibrated cam system clearance and minimal friction for maximum performance and the Tri Loc Axle Cap ensures the setscrew locks into the riser. The Tri Loc Limb Pocket bolts into limbs for the perfect lock and alignment. Balanced Bow Technology provides proper grip location, parallel limbs and weight distribution providing an extremely adjustable and stable shooting platform. The Axxon 36 features Dual Sync Technology providing a smooth draw, quick arrow speeds, and easy tuning for proper arrow flight. No need to worry about cam lean and serving wear thanks to the Helix Cam with the Helix Groove. Limbs come in a 35-50 pound option, adjustable in 5-pound increments, with the Helix Short Draw. The Axxon 36 delivers speeds of 333 fps with a brace height of 6 7/8 inches and 36 ½ inch axle-to-axle length. Learn more at Martin Archery’s website.

Elite – Victory X

Elite Archery’s Victory X target bow is sculpted with Elite shootability and consistency. The Victory X is a bow that delivers 327 fps speeds and starts at 50 pound draw weight and 26 inch draw length. Weighing only 4.4 pounds, the Victory X is built on the high performing Victory platform and features perfect synchronization of the famed two-track cam system. Dual track binary cams with inset mods give the shooter a stable, noise free, draw length specific cam that will remain true to its original setting. The Victory X weighs a mere 4.4 pounds meaning that you can shoot heavy large diameter arrows in tournaments where speed is limited. Learn more at Elite Archery’s website.

Bowtech – Reckoning

The Reckoning was engineered as the first bow to feature DeadLock technology, providing reliable accuracy. This premier bow focuses on a “crossover” product role, and is at home equally as a Target/3D bow in addition to a longer length axle-to-axle hunting bow option. The Bowtech Reckoning features DeadLock Cams offering the ability to quickly and easily adjust the string path and put the energy directly behind the arrow without a bow press. DeadLock features a patented adjustment system that adjusts the cams left or right to perfect the string path and locks down for accuracy that is precise for life with the simple turn of a screw. Deadlock Pocket Locks the entire bow structure as one and eliminates unwanted, accuracy-robbing component movement shot-to-shot. Deadlock Cable Containment reduces torque and increases forgiveness on every shot, translating into consistent accuracy. Learn more at Bowtech’s website.

Hoyt – Prevail Series

The Hoyt target compound lineup is legendary for setting the standard of tournament level accuracy. The Prevail series boasts the XT2000 limb, SVX and X3 Cam & ½ Performance Systems, and more. You will also appreciate the additional rear stabilizer location, which is compatible with Hoyt’s hard-lock rear stabilizer system. The Prevail includes proven Shoot-Thru Riser Technology, 4-angle modular grip system, and adjustable 4-position cable guard technology. The modular grip system allows fine-tuning your grip pressure by changing the angle of the grip with 4 different grip modules: 0, +2, +4 and +6 degrees, with 0 being the standard angle. Top and bottom cams are fused together by a harness system, ensuring they fire at the exact same time, every time, for ultimate consistency and accuracy. Learn more at Hoyt’s website.

Glocks…one of the most popular, recognizable, and divisive brands in the firearms world.

Even if you take a step out of the gun community, most people know about Glock. From movies to rap lyrics, the brand seemingly exists everywhere.

But within the gun world, Glocks are one of those guns that foster a conversation.

Whether you love Glocks or love to hate them, we’re going to take a look at some of the best models the Austrian company has to offer.

From concealed carry 9mm variants all the way to full-auto (oh yeah, they have one of those too), we’ll tell you which Glocks are worth your time, money, or are just plain fun.

Let’s get to it!

THE QUICK LIST

History Time!

We would be remiss if we didn’t at least touch on the history of Glock. Since it is a powerhouse brand, we feel we kinda owe it to you to explain how they got to where they are.

Glock began in the early 1960s, helmed by Gaston Glock.

At the time, pistols weren’t really on his mind. Instead, the company manufactured wood, steel, and plastic.

Fast forward to the groovy era of the 1970s, marking Glock’s entry to the world of weaponry — specifically, knives, grenades, and machine-gun belt links.

It didn’t take long for the wheels to start turning and by the 1980s, the Glock 17 emerged.

While it wasn’t the first polymer pistol to land on shelves (that honor belongs to HK VP70), it was the first one to be a big hit.

Before you know it, law enforcement was arming up with the plastic fantastic and its stellar 17-round magazine.

So, why has Glock maintained its stature?

Well, like it or not, the pistols are affordable and reliable. Two things that make both government agencies and civilians fall in love.

Since Glock’s emergence into the firearms community, the brand has continued to release new models based on the tried-and-true design.

Whether that’s upgrading generations or producing new models in different calibers (I’m looking at you G44), Glock isn’t going anywhere anytime soon.

Best Glocks in All Calibers

With history behind, let’s get to what you really came for…the best Glock pistols.

Though 9mm is classic Glock, we’re going to cover all sorts of calibers in the company’s inventory.

1. Glock 17 (9mm)

Ok, so we had to kick this list off with the OG, the one that started it all…the Glock G17.

A full-size, 9mm model, the G17 is available in all multiple generations.

(Don’t know the difference between a Gen. 3 and a Gen. 5, head over to our Glock Generations article to get the low-down.)

Featuring a barrel length of 4.49-inches, the G17 measures 8.03-inches in total length. It weighs in at 32.28-ounces loaded with a standard 17-round magazine.

The G17 is the gold standard for most law enforcement and its reliability has made it a winner in the civilian market.

From carry to home defense, the G17’s larger style makes it a perfect pistol for self-defense and personal protection.

If full-size isn’t your thing, however, then you might consider moving to Glock’s midsize 9mm…

2. Glock 19 (9mm)

The Glock 19 is remarkably similar to the G17, but on a slightly smaller scale.

Still chambered in 9mm, the G19 measures 7.28-inches in total length. It sports a 4.02-inch barrel and weighs 30.16-ounces loaded.

This midsize model is versatile and easily transitions from the range to concealed carry with its double-stack design.

Again, it’s seen wide use in the law enforcement realm and, like most Glock products, is renowned for its ease of use and reliability.

Not to mention, the 9mm chambering means that, in non-ammo shortage scenarios, you should be able to easily train with it alongside its standard 15-round magazine.

The G19 also benefits from a wealth of aftermarket support so you can switch sights, triggers, and slides if you so choose.

Interested in learning even more, especially about the Gen 5 G19, then head over to our full review.

If you still need something smaller to conceal, maybe in hotter summer months, then let’s take a look at a single stack.

What do you think of the Glock 19? Rate it below.

3. Glock 43/43X (9mm)

Coming in with a subcompact style, the Glock 43 and newer 43X reduce the size of the platform with a single-stack design.

The 6-round capacity on the G43 brings with it a slimmer profile but still with a 9mm chambering.

Offering a 3.41-inch barrel and 6.26-inch overall length, the G43 weighs 20.64-ounces loaded.

Meanwhile, the G43X brings an ever-so-slightly larger build.

The G43X measures 6.50-inches overall but still uses that 3.41-inch barrel. Loaded, it weighs more than the standard G43 at 23.7-ounces.

You also get more rounds with the G43X — it features a 10-round capacity.

If you want a slim CCW pistol but have to have that sweet, sweet 9mm, the G43 and G43X are right up your alley.

For a more in-depth look at the G43, check our review here or just watch the video below.

If you prefer a little different oomph, however, you can knock it up to .45 ACP.

4. Glock 30SF (.45 ACP)

Some people love their .45 ACP and who are we to tell you you’re wrong. If .45 ACP is what you want, then the G30 SF is the Glock pistol for it.

Based on the G30 design, the G30 SF brings a subcompact appearance with a 10-round capacity.

How does Glock accomplish this? With a shortened frame and reduced grip dimensions, of course.

With a barrel length measuring 3.78-inches and an overall length of 6.97-inches, the SF weighs 33.69-ounces loaded.

The choice of many plain-clothed street cops and security personnel, the G30 SF fits naturally into a concealed carry or defensive setup.

Like all Glocks, it’s easy to operate and maintain.

Though the G30 SF makes for flawless concealed carry in .45 ACP, what about a full-size for home-defense or just fun at the range…

5. Glock 21 (.45 ACP)

Continuing the .45 ACP vibe, the G21 is the full-size package.

With a barrel length of 4.61-inches and a total length sitting at 8.07-inches, the G21 weighs 38.80-ounces loaded.

What do you get from the G21 that you don’t see with the G30 SF? More rounds!

The G21 boasts a standard capacity of 13-rounds.

We always think more is better, especially when at the range or during a defensive situation.

Which, is where this pistol excels.

It could easily tuck into a nightstand safe or tossed into a range bag.

If .45 ACP isn’t your cup of tea, though, Glock does offer a handful of .40 S&W models…

6. Glock 23 (.40 S&W)

The G23 comes chambered in .40 S&W with a magazine capacity of 13-rounds (though you can certainly spring for an aftermarket mag with up to 22-rounds).

Sporting a 4.02-inch barrel and total length of 7.28-inches, it weighs 34.36-ounces loaded.

It’s available in Gen. 4 or Gen. 5, but if you go for a Gen. 5 you’ll get the bonus of an nDLC finish, Glock Marksman barrel, and flared magwell.

Oh, and lefties will appreciate that ambidextrous slide stop lever too!

Using a compact build, the G23 is a nice middle area between full-size and subcompact.

And if you happen to love red dots and optics as much as we do, there’s even a MOS model that supports red dots.

If you love the .40-caliber, then you can’t get better than the G23.

Of course, while we’re talking alternative rounds, we might as well mention that Glock also has 10mm offerings…

7. Glock 20 (10mm)

There’s something cool about shooting 10mm. Whether you’re doing it on the hunt or at the range, it’s a fun round!

Luckily Glock has a few 10mm offerings up its sleeve, but our favorite is the G20.

With a capacity sitting at 15-rounds, the G20 is a full-size model with 8.07-inches in total length to its name.

The barrel measures 4.61-inches and total loaded weight is 39.86-ounces.

While the G20 only comes in the Gen. 4 variant, but Glock does offer an SF, or short frame, model.

You still get that 15-round capacity with the SF and most of the measurements are on par with the G20.

But the SF downsizes the receiver’s circumference at the rear for a little more ease when shooting.

Interested in a deep dive into this 10mm bad boy? Check out our full review here!

Of course, if 10mm is just a bit much in your book, you can move in the opposite direction to a Glock in .380 ACP.

8. Glock 42 (.380 ACP)

The G42 comes chambered in .380 ACP which means there’s little to no recoil while shooting.

This subcompact offers a barrel length of 3.25-inches with an overall length measuring 5.94-inches. Weight rests at 15.87-ounces loaded.

Glock’s G42 is an ultra-compact pistol designed for concealed carry. This is your summer gun!

The trade-off for such a small handgun, though, is capacity. In the case of the G42, that means 6 rounds. Probably want to stock up on the spare mags…

It keeps to Glock’s easy-to-shoot-and-maintain platform and brings that durability you’ve come to expect from the Glock brand.

If .380 ACP is still too much, you can always go with a cartridge most of us probably started on…a .22 LR.

9. Glock 44 (.22 LR)

Ok, so I know the G44 is controversial. I’m sorry to all the fanbois who wanted a Glock PCC but instead got a .22 LR. Don’t throw hate at me.

The G44 burst onto the scene with a .22 LR chambering. According to the company, they wanted to introduce a gun specifically for first-time gun owners and those that put in a lot of training reps at the range.

Mimicking the size of the G19, the G44 comes with a 4.02-inch barrel and an overall length of 7.28-inches. Loaded with its standard 10 rounds, it weighs 16.40-ounces.

While you most likely won’t be packing this in your IWB holster, the G44’s strength comes from the fact that you can easily plink with it.

Normally, .22 LR ammo is cheap and easy to find, making this gun a perfect training companion.

Not to mention, .22 LR has virtually no recoil so first-timers will find this comfortable and less intimidating to shoot.

To see the G44 in action, peep our video below or you can read our full review here!

10. G48 MOS (9mm)

A newer Glock model, the G48 series takes a slim approach and looks to shave down on size.

Chambered in 9mm, it measures pretty close to the G19 but adopts Glock’s Slimline build to reduce its width.

Where the regular, ole G19 offers a 1.26-inch width, the G48 MOS measures 1.10-inches.

The G48 brings a 4.17-inch barrel to the table with an overall length of 7.28-inches. It tips scales at 24.97-ounces loaded. And, it comes with a standard capacity of 10 rounds.

The MOS designator means that it uses Glock’s Modular Optic System. If you love red dots, this is a great pistol to toss an optic on — especially for concealed carry.

For more info on the G48 (and G43X) walk on over to our full review here.

Honorable Mentions

We couldn’t do an ultimate Glock list and leave off the very cool full-auto (yeah, you read that right) Glock 18.

The G18 is a BAMF 9mm full-auto Glock that most of us could just dream of owning. But for the lucky few, it’s a rad model that is peak Glock.

Also worth mentioning, if you’re a fan of .357 calibers and were a little bummed to not see the cartridges mentioned…well, let me put you on the G31 and G32.

Both are .357 SIG models! So, go get your fix!

Conclusion

Glock pistols set the standard for polymer, striker-fired pistols. With a range of calibers from .22 LR all the way to 10mm, you’re guaranteed to find a model that fits your needs.

What is your favorite Glock? Did it make our list? Let us know in the comments below. If you’ve already got a Glock but want to snazz it up, check out some of our other articles on how to Gucci your Gat: Best Glock Upgrades, Best Glock Sights, and Best Glock Triggers.

Sausage casings are an essential part of making sausage. After all, when we have a look at what sausages are made of, we have, of course, the stuffing with the meat, the sausage seasoning, and the meat casing. After all, a sausage isn’t a sausage without something to stuff it in. But sausage casings are also important in ensuring your end product is flavorful, processed evenly, and has great texture.

The type of casing used is typically dictated by tradition but also varies by processing technique, ingredients, and size. Most sausage casings are natural, collagen or fibrous, with a wide array of sizes and applications depending on the type of sausage.

But what is the casing on sausage? Is the sausage casing edible? What are sausage casings made of? PS Seasoning professional chefs answer all your questions about sausage casings.

What is the Casing on Sausage?

Sausage casing is the material that encases the filling of a sausage. Natural sausage casings are usually made of animal intestines but can also be made from collagen, or cellulose material.

What are Sausage Casings Made of?

Generally, sausage casings are made either from beef or sheep intestines, collagen, or cellulose. Though more rare, some sausage casings are made of plastic such as lunch meat and bologna.

Types of Sausage Casings

Natural Casings

Natural sausage casings are made from the submucosa of the small intestine, a layer of the intestine that consists of naturally occurring collagen. The use of natural casing goes back centuries — it’s one of the oldest forms of sausage-making, a classic in the sausage tradition. They are the most popular choice today because of the “snap” they make when bitten. Natural sausage casings are also flexible, tender, easy to stuff, and are durable enough to hold up to smokehouse processing. Natural casings are commonly used for fresh sausage, smoked sausage, snack sticks, brats and more. Your natural sausage casings will come either packed in salt or a saline solution. The saline solution is designed for quick use, so once you rinse them off, you can use them within about 30 minutes after soaking in warm water. If salt-packed (in other words, heavily salted), you need to rinse off the salt from the natural casings, soak them in cold water and run cold water through them. After about half an hour of soaking in warm water, they can be used for stuffing sausages. These natural casings can be repacked in salt and stored in the freezer for up to a year.

Hog casings

Hog casings are the traditional choice when making any type of link sausage like bratwurst, Italians, and kielbasa. This type of natural casing is also commonly used for making smoked polish sausages, ring bologna with a small diameter and landjäeger.

29-32 mm Small Brats • Link Sausage • Landjaeger 32-35 mm Brats • Italian Sausage • Rope Sausage 35-38 mm Polish • Kielbasa 38-42 mm Bologna

Sheep casings

Sheep casings are the most tender of the natural casings. The smaller diameter of sheep casings makes the perfect for making small link sausages like breakfast sausage and hot dogs, to snack sticks.

20-22 mm Breakfast Sausage • Small Snack Sticks 22-24 mm Breakfast Sausage • Snack Sticks 24-26 mm Small Hot Dog • Wiener 26-28 mm Large Hot Dog • Wiener • Landjaeger

Beef Rounds

Beef rounds get their name from their characteristic round shape. They have minimal fat and are ideal for fresh, cooked or smoked sausage such as Ring Bologna, Polish, Mettwurst, Holsteiner, and Blood Sausage. These beef casings are very heavily salted in order to conserve them, so you need to rinse them in cold water then run warm water through them. The best treatment is to soak the beef casings overnight in cold water and soak them in warm water for about 30 minutes before beginning your sausage stuffing work.

Beef Middles

Beef middles are straight long casings that have a heavier texture wall with some fat. These beef casings are ideal for dry and semi-dry sausages like Salami, Liverwurst, Bologna, or Summer sausage.

Beef Bung Caps

Made from the end of a cow’s large intestine, beef bungs are large-diameter sausage casings that are typically used for large bologna, headcheese, souse, capicola, and mortadella.

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Collagen Casings

What is a collagen casing? Collagen casings are processed, edible sausage casings produced from the collagen in cow or pig hides, bones, and tendons. While they don’t give much of a snap, they’re inexpensive and give more uniformity in weight and size compared to their natural counterparts. Collagen casings are packaged in sheets around a tube that can easily be loaded on your stuffing horn, with no soaking required. They come in two varieties based on processing:

Fresh Collagen Casings

As the name implies, fresh collagen casings are used specifically for fresh sausages like bratwurst and breakfast links. These tend to be more tender casings that are unable to withstand hanging in a smokehouse.

Smoked Collagen Casings

Smoked or processed collagen casing are a bit stronger and thicker than fresh collagen to hold up to the processing schedule in the smokehouse, and can be used for making snack sticks, ring bologna, hot dogs or wieners. Their durability holds up well when hung on smoke sticks during processing. Collagen casings are available in clear and mahogany colors (no taste variation).

19 mm Smoke Mahogany Small Snack Sticks 21 mm Fresh Clear Small Breakfast Sausages 21 mm Smoke Clear or Mahogany Snack Sticks 23 mm Smoke Clear Large Snack Sticks • Small Pepperoni 26 mm Smoke Clear Hot Dogs • Wieners 30 mm Fresh Clear Brats • Link Sausage 40 mm Smoke Clear Ring Bologna • Liver Sausage • Kielbasa 43 mm Smoke Clear Ring Bologna • Liver Sausage • Kielbasa

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Fibrous Casings

Fibrous casings are inedible sausage casings made from a form of cellulose material that peels away easily when cooked. They are also made from a specific tree called the Abaca. The fibers in the Abaca tree are very strong yet easy to work with — they’re very stretchable. Fibrous casings are most commonly used for making pepperonis, summer sausage, bologna, liverwurst, and other fine smoked sausages. Their durability allows tight stuffing, making them ideal for fine or emulsified sausages. Fibrous casings should be soaked for at least 25-30 minutes in warm water (80-100 F). Lay the sausage casings flat in warm water and submerge completely, with the tied ends lower so that any trapped air can escape. After soaking, squeeze excess water out before stuffing your sausages.

There’s two main kinds of fibrous sausage casings — clear and mahogany. You can also get them printed with a design. The benefit of a mahogany casing is you’ll get a consistent color when you are smoking the sausage.

1″ Thuringer • Pepperoni • Salami • Cracker-Sized Sausages 2-2.5″ Traditional Summer Sausage 4″ Large Summer Sausage • Hard Salami 8″ Olive & Pimento Loaf • Mortadella • Deli & Sandwich Meats

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Did you find unknown orange mushrooms in your yard, in the wood, or growing on tree trunks? We made a list of 10 species of orange mushrooms to help you recognize them.

The diversity of mushrooms is impressive. Not only do they look different from species to species, but they also impress with their color variety. We can find species ranging from white to red shades to even green and blue.

In this article, we will talk mainly about several species of fungi that develop predominantly orange fruiting bodies.

Keep in mind that it’s not a good idea to try identifying mushrooms based solely on their colors. Some species may have variable colors depending on the different stages of their lives. Some may be white initially, then turn yellowish, later orange, and even reddish close to the end of their life cycle. Therefore, we recommend you pay great attention when classifying them.

IMPORTANT: The toxicity of each species of mushroom included in this article was obtained from several sources. This data and display photos may or may NOT be entirely accurate. The purpose of this article is NOT to advise whether these species of mushrooms are edible or not, but it’s intended to present fascinating facts about the numerous types of orange fungi.

Never consume any wild mushrooms unless you are 100% sure they are edible! Just because a mushroom species is labeled as “Non-Toxic” or “Non-Poisonous” in this article doesn’t necessarily mean it is edible and safe for consumption.

1. Orange Mycena (Mycena Leaiana)

Mycena leaiana is a species of mushrooms with origins in North America, but there is a related variety (Mycena leaiana var. australis) that can be seen in the woodlands of New Zealand and Australia. Other common names for mycena leaiana include the orange mycena or Lea’s mycena.

This mushroom species is usually easily distinguished by its bright orange cap with a smooth and sticky surface. Its cap is no greater than 1.5 inches (4 cm) in diameter, has a bright orange color, but this may fade as the mushroom matures. Initially, it has a bell shape but becomes convex with age and frequently forms a depression in the center.

On the underside of the cap, it has crowded orange gills with reddish-orange margins. These are almost free from the stem.

The cap is supported by long and thin stipes, also orange and covered in fine hairs.

Mycena leaiana is a saprobic species. It feeds on dead and rotting wood, leaves, and other organic matter found in the forests. Another particularity of these mushrooms is the fact that they usually grow in dense clusters on deciduous logs.

Although it is oftentimes labeled as non-poisonous, the edibility of Mycena leaiana is unknown. In the absence of any convincing studies concerning these species of mushrooms, it is not recommended their consumption.

2. Orange Peel Fungus (Aleuria Aurantia)

Aleuria aurantia is a species of fungus seen throughout Europe, South and North America, parts of Asia, Australia, and New Zealand.

This fungus develops an orange, thin fruiting body similar to a cup, or a husk, hence its popular name, “the orange peel.” When maturing, it can take on a flat or irregular shape and can reach sizes up to 4 inches (10 cm) in diameter under favorable conditions. The underside of the cap may be fuzzy, lighter in color than the top, or even whitish when the mushroom is young.

It doesn’t have a stem. It attaches directly to the ground through a thickening in the center of the cap.

Aleuria aurantia usually appears in late summer to autumn (or even in winter in warmer climates) and grows in clusters on the soil’s surface. It is frequently spotted in urban landscaped areas with disturbed soils, clays, roadside, or covered with wood chip mulches.

Aleuria aurantia is generally considered a non-toxic species and edible if cooked. However, it does not excel in flavor, and many say that it is almost tasteless. It is also quite difficult to pick because it is fragile and breaks into small fragments when touched.

Also keep in mind that there are several poisonous European species that look similar to these mushrooms, such as Caloscypha fulgens or Sarcoscypha coccinea.

3. Jack-O-Lantern (Omphalotus Illudens)

Omphalotus Illudens is a species of orange mushrooms distributed mainly in eastern North America and parts of Europe. These mushrooms are largely known as “jack-o’lantern mushrooms” due to their pumpkin-orange color and bioluminescent properties (thought to glow in the dark due to a chemical reaction, but some say that this is just a myth).

Although luminescence is not very common among mushrooms, according to PlantSnap, there are over 80 species of bioluminescent mushrooms. Through the weak light emitted in the dark, these species of fungi attract certain insects that spread their spores, hence, helping their multiplication.

Omphalotus Illudens is a saprobic fungus that feeds with dead organic matter from the forests, such as decaying stumps or dry fallen branches. It usually grows in clusters and is frequently spotted at the base of hardwood trees.

These fungi can reach fairly large sizes, especially at the group level. They are distinguished by a yellow-to-orange cap that initially has an umbrella shape which later flattens. The underside holds true non-forking gills, the same color as the cap, that run down the stem. The cap’s margins are initially curled inward but later can turn upward.

The stalk is long, has a smooth surface with a bright yellowish-orange color, darkening towards the base.

The Jack-O-Lantern mushrooms are toxic and should never be consumed raw or cooked. Unhappily, they are easily confused with edible species such as the golden chanterelle.

4. Goblet Waxcap (Hygrocybe Cantharellus)

Hygrocybe cantharellus is a species of small mushrooms found largely in the grasslands and woodlands of eastern North America, Europe, and parts of Australia. It belongs to the genus Hygrocybe (waxcaps), the family Hygrophoraceae and it’s popularly known as the Goblet Waxcap.

It has a small-size cap with a dry surface whose color can vary from light orange to reddish-orange. It does not usually exceed a few centimeters in width, initially has a convex shape, then flattens out and forms a slight depression in the center.

The cap’s edges are usually twisted inwards, slightly lighter in color, and become scalloped when aging. On the underside, it features sharp-edged pale yellow gills that run down the stem.

The stem is thin but relatively long compared to the mushroom’s size, orange in color, but pales toward the bottom.

Goblet Waxcap is considered by many to be a saprobic fungus because it sometimes grows on wood or decaying roots of plants but also thrives in areas covered with moss. It can grow both in small groups and alone.

Depending on the climate, they usually appear from late summer to late autumn.

Hygrocybe cantharellus is generally considered a non-toxic mushroom, but there is limited data on the edibility of this species to be considered entirely safe for consumption. Its reduced size can also be a downside.

5. Lobster Mushroom (Hypomyces Lactifluorum)

Hypomyces Lactifluorum, or the Lobster mushroom as it’s commonly known, is a species of parasitic fungus that develops on top of several species of mushrooms. Although it is believed to be distributed mainly in North America, there are numerous records of the existence of this fungus on several other continents.

It is popularly called the “lobster mushroom” because it has the appearance of the outer shell of a cooked lobster and a reddish-orange color.

At maturity, hypomyces lactifluorum contains its host entirely, making the original species impossible to identify visually. Studies also point that this fungus not only changes the look of its host but can also alter its chemical composition.

Among the species of mushrooms that Hypomyces Lactifluorum prefers are those of the genus Russula, Lactifluus, and Lactarius.

This fungus is usually found in hardwood and coniferous forests, places where the host mushrooms mentioned above are regularly found.

It doesn’t have always the same shape. While at times mimics the form of the mushroom species it attacks, other times, it can exercise a pretty irregular shape. The orange color and the lobster shell look covered with tiny pimples may be the best indicators to recognize the lobster mushrooms.

Lobster mushrooms are non-toxic and also edible. They are even sold in certain markets. Still, many argue that there may be situations when these parasitic fungi might become inedible.

Although they are known to only parasite particular non-poisonous species, some say that might be always a slim chance for them to infect a poisonous variety. In this case, it raises the possibility to carry on the host’s toxins.

Unfortunately, I was not able to find any solid study to confirm or disprove this fact, nor any reports of poisonings linked to hypomyces lactifluorum consumption. Therefore, I would recommend you to be cautious, and only consume these when you know the host species.

6. Woolly Chanterelle (Turbinellus Floccosus)

Turbinellus floccosus is a species of fungi growing especially in coniferous woodlands across Asia and North America. It has several popular names such as the woolly chanterelle, scaly vase, scaly chanterelle, shaggy chanterelle, and more.

Although the popular name of turbinellus floccosus often includes the term “chanterelle,” and even has some similarities in shape with mushrooms in the genus Cantharellus, they are not related.

Turbinellus floccosus appears especially in late summer and autumn and prefers humid regions with heavy rains. They can grow both individually and in small groups.

These mushrooms are mainly distinguishable through their trumpet or vase-like shape and a central depression that gets deeper when aging. The cap’s top color usually alternates depending on humidity and age and can vary from yellowish orange to a dark reddish-orange.

Instead of gills, turbinellus floccosus possess irregular pale yellow-to-cream wrinkled ridges that go down the whole stem. There is no clear separation between the cap and the stem. Sometimes, multiple fruit bodies may grow from one stipe.

Turbinellus floccosus is generally considered inedible as it is known to cause gastrointestinal problems such as nausea, vomiting, or diarrhea. However, some sources assert that the geographical region in which these mushrooms grow may determine whether or not they are edible. Apparently, those growing in the Pacific Northwest and British Columbia are toxic, while the ones from central Mexico and India are considered edible.

7. Jackson’s Slender Amanita (Amanita Jacksonii)

Amanita jacksonii is a species of mushrooms native to North America. It belongs to the family Amanitaceae, which is famous for including some of the most poisonous mushrooms, but also varieties appreciated for their flavor.

The appearance of this mushroom and its color vary depending on its maturity stage. At first, it looks like a white oval egg that rises above the ground. Later, it opens up, forming an orange or reddish-orange hemispherical cap that becomes convex and eventually flat, usually with a small cavity in the middle.

Its pigment concentrates in a central orange or reddish ring at maturity, fading to yellow toward the margins, with orange streaks on the edges.

The underneath has moderately crowded to crowded yellow to yellow-orange gills, free from the stem or slightly attached. It also presents subtruncate to truncate short gills.

A long and slim yellow stem supports the cap, often sprinkled with orange spots at the surface. At the base, you can often see white remnants of the original coating.

Amanita jacksonii is non-toxic and even labeled as edible by various sources. However, there are several deadly Amanita species similar to them. Hence, there is a significant risk of misidentifying this mushroom and ending up consuming a poisonous one.

8. Eyelash Cup (Scutellinia Scutellata)

Scutellinia scutellata is a saprobic fungus species found in many regions of the world. It is, in fact, one of the most widespread fungi in the world.

Besides the scientific name, it is also known as the Eyelash cup, Molly eye-winker, or the Common eyelash fungus.

It produces a small fruiting body which is generally seen growing in small groups on rotting wood or on soggy soil. It thrives in swampy environments where there is humidity constantly.

Scutellinia scutellata is easily recognizable due to its oily wet look, bright orange or reddish color, cup shape or flattened, and margins covered with stiff hairs, similar to an eyelash.

Depending on the climate, it can be noticed from late spring to late fall, and sometimes even in winter or spring.

We did not find data regarding the toxicity of Scutellinia scutellata, but most sources seem to indicate that it is not edible.

9. The Orange Bonnet (Mycena Acicula)

Mycena acicula, ordinarily known as the coral spring Mycena or orange bonnet, is a species of miniature mushrooms found throughout Asia, Europe, North America, and the Caribbean.

This species of fungus is mainly identified by the small size of its fruiting body, along with several particularities.

The orange bonnet has the classic mushroom look, with an orange-red cap that presents gills underneath and which is supported by a leg. Even at maturity, the cap rarely grows more than 0.4 inches (1cm).

Initially, the cap is hemispherical, later gets a bell shape, and eventually becomes convex. Its surface becomes smooth with the age and shows streaks leading to the edges.

The stem is relatively long compared to the overall size and does not usually exceed 2-2.5 inches (5-6 cm) in length.

These tiny mushrooms grow solitary in wet environments. Are often found on hardwood and conifer twigs or buried under the top layer of the leaf litter. They usually make their presence from late autumn to mid-winter and usually in spring in mountainous regions.

It is not known exactly if these mushrooms contain any toxic chemicals, but they are considered inedible due to their small size.

10. The Golden Trumpet (Xeromphalina Campanella)

Xeromphalina campanella is a saprobic species of mushrooms native to North America. It is known by several names such as the golden trumpet, Omphalina bell, or fuzzy foot.

The mushroom is observed in coniferous forests, usually growing in dense clusters on rotting logs and stumps. It is a small mushroom, but it cannot easily go unnoticed due to the fact that it almost always grows in large groups.

The cap of xeromphalina campanella has an umbrella shape when young, then its margins widen and rise, forming a central depression. Its color ranges from brownish yellow to orange. On the underside, it has well-spaced gills that run down the stem. These range in color from pale yellow to orange.

The stalk is thin, light orange near the cap, and brownish to yellow towards the base, which is covered with fine yellow or brown hairs, hence its common name “fuzzy foot.”

Although it is generally considered non-toxic, most sources label Xeromphalina campanella as inedible.

Final Word

This is just a tiny selection of the orange mushrooms that you can observe throughout various regions of the world. Because of their orange color, they are often easily observable in the green grass, growing on trees’ trunks, on decaying wood stumps, on the forest floor, or even in your yard or garden.

We hope you found this list helpful and assist you in identifying mushrooms with this particularity.

Several other species of fungi that produce orange fruiting bodies are:

• Cantharellus cinnabarinus
• Cystodermella cinnabarina
• Entoloma quadratum
• Gliophorus perplexus
• Gymnopilus sapineus
• Gymnosporangium juniperi-virginianae
• Pycnoporellus fulgens
• Pycnoporus cinnabarinus
• Tylopilus balloui
• Laetiporus cincinnatus

Since you have reached the end of the article, you may also be interested in our selection of 10 yellow mushroom species or 10 red mushroom species.

Please do not eat any species of mushrooms based only on the information presented in this article! Always consult a specialist before determining whether a mushroom is safe for consumption or not.

When entering the world of fly fishing, there are certain aspects of it that become overwhelming. Learning the rod weights and correlating numbers takes time. Having a full understanding of these numbers will help you fish your waters in a much more efficient way. It took me several months to understand what weight rod I needed and when I needed it, but the extra research has paid off in the long run.

What do all the numbers mean on fly rods?

The list of numbers include weight, length, number of sections, action as well as the necessary size of the fly line. The higher the number, the larger the flies and line and the smaller the number, the smaller the flies and line.

Which Fly Rod Weight Should I Get?

Choosing the proper weight of a fly rod is going to allow you to better target the fish and do so in an efficient way. You can make the proper distanced casts and have enough power to fight fish.

2-3 Weight Fly Rods

These fly rods are a blast to use. They’re a bit limited in where they can be fished, but they create wonderful experiences. 2-3 weight rods are ideal for casting delicate flies at small trout in skinny water. At some points, you’re reaching out with the fly, dropping it a bit upstream and letting it drift down in front of the fish.

If you know you’re going to spend time on skinny water, do yourself a favor and pick up a finesse rod and enjoy all that it has to offer. They’ll allow you to really test your skills with presentation and casting.

You’re not going to throw 40-foot casts with these rods. Your max distance is going to be around 25 or 30 feet.

4-6 Weight Fly Rods

The 4-6 weight rods are the most common rods in a trout angler’s arsenal. These are perfect for small to large rivers. If you’re fishing out west in Montana, a 5 or 6-weight rod is perfect. You can get enough power to cast, but still delicately present flies if needed.

Many anglers choose to purchase a 4 to 6-weight rod for their first rig. It’s versatile and will fight the majority of freshwater fish that you find. If you know you’re interested in getting into the sport, but are unsure of what rod, then go with the 4-6 weight. You can throw streamers, dries and nymphs without having to worry about switching rods.

Guide Tip: I absolutely love 4 weight fly rods. Read what to use them for in this article 👉 What is a 4 Weight Fly Rod Good For

You’ll be able to throw 50 to 60-foot casts on a good day with some quality fly line. These rods are great to fish in rivers as well as still water. The versatility is ideal.

7-8 Weight Fly Rods

Your 7-8 weight fly rods are ideal for those larger freshwater fish as well as some saltwater fish. If you’re on your way to Alaska or Canada, a 7 or 8-weight will help in your attempts to catch steelhead. Also, these are great rods for pike, bass and muskie! Some would consider these to be a bit light, but depending on where you are, they’ll work just fine.

You can throw large streamers and poppers with these rods. They’re not great for finesse fishing due to the extra power that you receive with them. If you’re fishing flats or after other smaller saltwater fish, then the 7 or 8-weight would work well.

You can easily get 60 to-70-foot casts through strong current as well as larger lakes. At times, the extra power is necessary to help you get to the fish as well as fight them. While this is a bit more of a specialty rod, if you know you’re primarily after big fish, it’s well worth the investment.

Guide Pro Tip: Do you want a “general purpose fly rod” read this article for my recommendation 👉 What is the Best All Around Fly Rod

9-10 Weight Rods

Most anglers would say a 9 or 10-weight is perfect if you’re targeting salmon, striped bass, snook as well as other saltwater fish. You’ll see spey rods come in this weight as well! Again, they’re a specialty rod, but if you live in an area with these large fish or often travel to remote areas with large fish, then a 9 or 10-weight would work for you.

You can make extremely long casts with these rods and fight double digit fish with no problem! Streamers are going to be the primary flies you throw with a 9 or 10-weight rod. Get after those big fish and put it to the test. You won’t regret it! There are few things that are more fun than a salmon on a 9-weight rod. You have to give it your all.

10 and Higher

Any rod over a 10-weight is created to be used in saltwater. Targeting tarpon, Giant Trevally, Sailfish and other large saltwater fish is going to require as much power as you can muster. Saltwater fish fight much harder than freshwater fish and will fight to their death. You need to be prepared to throw a heavy fly, heavy leader and fight monstrous fish.

Saltwater fly fishing excursions are wonderful. If you’ve never tried it, give yourself an opportunity to do so. Hiring a guide will help you learn a lifetime of useful information. These rods tend to be a bit more expensive due to their specific use, but if saltwater is your primary water, then it’s well worth the investment.

Fly Rod Selection Chart

To help fellow fly flingers choose a rod, I’ve put together a chart and a download – FREE. Look it over and download a copy to your phone.

Click on the below picture to get the a 3 page download that talks all about fly rod definitions. The best part – It’s FREE

Fly Rod Action

After you have chosen the necessary weight of your rod, the next step is choosing the proper action. The right action is heavily dependent on your experience, skill level and the type of fishing you’re doing.

Fast Action

A fast action rod is great for experienced and strong casters. They have the least amount of flex of any action and that allows for a strong fight as well as power to cast through the wind. In order to succeed with this rod, your technique and timing needs to be in line.

Medium-Fast Action

A medium or moderate fast action is quite versatile. You’ll find many 4 to 6-weight rods are moderate-fast action. You can throw dries, nymphs and streamers with ease. You’ll find that these rods have a bit more bend in the blank and not quite as much power.

You won’t be able to cut through the wind as well as you would with a fast action rod, but it does the job. If you’re new to the world of fly fishing, go ahead and give a moderate or medium-fast action a try. Bringing one rod to the river is much easier than several! Many expert anglers still use a moderate-fast action rod because of the sensitivity it provides.

Medium Action

A medium action rod is a solid choice for new fly anglers. It’s even more forgiving than a moderate-fast action rod, but it’s not nearly as powerful. You have to be careful with the size of fish you target when using a medium-action rod. Since it has a bit more bend, you won’t have the power to fight a larger fish.

Many affordable rod options are made with a medium action. You’ll find lighter weight rods with this action because you can nicely lay down small dry flies with the more rod bend. You’ll see about half of the rod bending as you cast.

Slow Action

Many classic fly rods are slow action. They’re a perfect option for the anglers looking to fish small streams and gently lay down small dry flies. Nearly the entire rod bends as you cast. If you’re new to fly fishing and are spending time on small streams, a slow action rod is a great choice.

The rod won’t make you feel as if you’re losing control of your line as you cast. Beware of using a slow action rod in windy conditions! It’s not ideal and you won’t make much progress if you’re looking to make casts over 20 feet.

Fly Rod Length

Fly rods often vary in length, but there are a few standard lengths that you must have. Try to equate the length of the rod to the control you’ll have over the fly line. Often being able to reach out just a bit farther can make the difference.

9-Foot Rods

9-foot fly rods are common in 5 and 6-weights. These are long enough for you to throw dry flies, but also launch streamers quite a distance. A 5’ 9-weight rod is a great versatile option that you can use in almost any scenario that you would like.

8’ 6” Rod

8’ 6” rods are also another common length for 5 and 6-weights. They aren’t going to present dries as nicely, but they can work well with streamers and nymphs. The 8’ 6” length is the most versatile length that you’ll find on the market.

Rods Less than 8 Feet

Rods shorter than 8 feet are best used on small rivers and streams. They allow you to cast in tighter areas and do so accurately. If you know that you’ll be spending the majority of your time in skinny water, then a rod under 8-feet is going to be your best friend. Depending on your skill level, you can choose a different action.

Rods Longer than 9 Feet

Rods longer than 9 feet are often used for euro nymphing. These are ultra-finesse rigs and excel in tight conditions. Longer rods can be a challenge to cast and will get tangled in trees on the banks. However, they allow for a longer reach onto the water and extremely realistic fly presentations.

Number of Sections in a Fly Rod and Why

Most fly rods are either two or four pieces. When fly rods were first created, they were made in two pieces. As technology has developed, they are made primarily in four pieces.

As far as travel is concerned, a four-piece rod is ideal. You don’t have to pay to check your four-piece travel rod tube. If you travel with a two-piece rod, you’ll find that the majority of airlines are going to make you pay for it.

You’ll even find fly rods that break down to seven pieces. These will fit on a personal item in your backpack! If you can’t take much on the plane, but still want to fish, then the 7-piece rod is perfect.

What’s a Great All-Around Fly Rod?

A great all-around fly rod is an 8’6” 5-weight fly rod. You can use these on small rivers, lakes as well as large rivers. If you choose a rod with this weight and length, make sure you have a moderate-action.

This provides you with the sensitivity to lay down dry flies, but still gives you enough length to make those longer casts with streamers. An 8’6” 5-weight fly rod is one that you can always use no matter where you’re fishing. It’s not a bad idea to own a couple of these rods depending on how much fishing you do.

What Does a 5/6 Weight Mean?

A 5/6 weight rod is not uncommon to see. Essentially this means that the rod can hold both 5 and 6-weight line. If you do purchase one of these rods, it’s best if you go with a 6-weight line. It’ll give you a bit extra weight so you can make longer casts and get a true feel for the fly rod.

Do You Need More Than One Fly Rod?

The answer to this question depends on how much fly fishing you do. If you fly fish in large rivers, small streams and lakes, you’re going to want more than one fly rod. You won’t be able to fish all of these waters well with only one rod.

However, if you fish similar sized water and fish all the time, one fly rod will work great for you. If you’re like most fly anglers, you’ll quickly fall into the addiction of buying new fly rods.

Last Cast with the Perfect Weight Fly Rod

For beginners, choosing the right size rod can be intimidating. The numbers are confusing at first, but with a bit of research they all begin to make sense. If you match the rod, reel and line numbers, you should be in good shape. An improperly weighted rod is frustrating to use so make sure you put in the time to create a well-balanced setup.

Sighting in or “zeroing” a rifle is the art of aligning iron or telescopic sights with the barrel, thus allowing the shooter to place bullets predictably at a given distance. In this article, we will focus on telescopic sights or “scopes” because they offer significant advantages over open sights, especially at longer distances.

Scopes have evolved with greater clarity and magnification to match the increasing power and precision of rifles and ammunition. Two systems for aligning scopes have developed independently. Each has a distinctly different origin and approach. The Minute of Angle (MOA) method is an ancient base-60 scheme conceived for astronomy. The Milliradian method is a base-10 scheme developed for artillery in the late nineteenth century. Nonetheless, both are equally effective, using segments of arc to express a certain amount of change in trajectory at a set distance.

MOA — Minute of Angle

Brief

One minute of angle, also known as an arcminute, is equal to a deviation of approximately 1 inch at 100 yards, 2.00 inches at 200 yards and 3.00 inches at 300 yards. One increment of adjustment on many MOA scopes moves the reticle alignment 0.25 (1/4″) of an arcminute or 0.25 inches at 100 yards, 0.50 inch at 200 yards and 0.75 of an inch at 300 yards. These measurements apply to both windage and elevation and are accomplished by rotating a turret adjuster on the scope. Some scopes move reticle alignment in .0125 (1/8″) increments, but many shooters consider this too narrow to be useful, especially at great distances.

Let us consider some examples. If you had a bullet drop of 1.50 inches at 200 yards and wanted to zero your rifle at this distance, you would need to adjust the elevation turret of your scope up by 3 increments or .75 of an arcminute because a minute of arc equals 2 inches at 200 yards. Using these convenient figures, we can generate the following results in Table 1 showing approximate arcminute deviations and the value of one increment at various ranges.

Arcminute DeviationsIncremental Scope Adjustments of 0.25 100 yards = 1.0 inch100 yards = 0.25 inch 200 yards = 2.0 inch200 yards = 0.50 inch 300 yards = 3.0 inch300 yards = 0.75 inch 400 yards = 4.0 inch400 yards = 1.00 inch 500 yards = 5.0 inch500 yards = 1.25 inch 600 yards = 6.0 inch600 yards = 1.50 inch 700 yards = 7.0 inch700 yards = 1.75 inch 800 yards = 8.0 inch800 yards = 2.00 inch 900 yards = 9.0 inch900 yards = 2.25 inch 1000 yards = 10.0 inch1000 yards = 2.50 inch

In order to compensate for a windage error of 2.50 inches to the right at 500 yards, you would need to adjust the windage turret toward the left by 2 increments or 0.50 arcminutes because a minute of arc equals 5.00 inches at 500 yards.

In Depth

The MOA system was handed down from the Sumerians in the 3rd millennium BC. The modern practice of dividing a circle into 360 degrees began with the Sumerians. The Babylonians further refined this measurement by dividing each degree into 60 minutes of arc. Since an arcminute is 1/60th of a degree, there are 21,600 (60 * 360) arcminutes in a full circle. Being a standalone system that is somewhat arbitrary, MOA feels akin to Imperial units, even though it is not part of that system and postdates it by more than two millennia.

True MOA

Shooting purists acknowledge a difference between commonly understood MOA and “true” MOA, which adheres strictly to the underlying mathematics. This meticulous attitude is necessary when acquiring targets that are several hundred yards away because the minor variations of rounded numbers are magnified by distance. In June of 2017, a Canadian Special Forces sniper downed an Islamic State militant from just over 2 miles away. The bullet took 10 seconds to reach its target. Shooting at this distance and accounting for wind, angle of trajectory, light aberration, and even the Earth’s curvature leaves no margin for error. More practically speaking, striking a mule deer from 400 yards, down a powerline slash in Western Montana requires you to be “on your game.”

Calculating the exact deviation of one MOA is a problem of geometry. The circumference of our circle is determined by the radius or distance from the shooter to target. At 100 yards, using the formula of 2 π r, we find that 2 * 3.14 * 100 = 628 yards. As there are 36 inches to a yard, the circumference in inches is 22,608. Now, all that remains is to divide by the number of MOA’s in a circle (21,600) and the quotient is 1.047. This is the actual deviation of one MOA at 100 yards.

Using this precise figure, we can generate the following table of MOA deviations, yielding greater accuracy. Note that the variance from rounded numbers is nearly half an inch at 1000 yards.

TRUE Arcminute DeviationsTRUE Incremental Scope Adjustments of 0.25″ 100 yards = 1.047 inch100 yards = 0.2617 inch 200 yards = 2.094 inch200 yards = 0.5235 inch 300 yards = 3.141 inch300 yards = 0.7852 inch 400 yards = 4.188 inch400 yards = 1.0470 inch 500 yards = 5.236 inch500 yards = 1.3088 inch 600 yards = 6.282 inch600 yards = 1.5705 inch 700 yards = 7.329inch700 yards = 1.8323 inch 800 yards = 8.376 inch800 yards = 2.0940 inch 900 yards = 9.423 inch900 yards = 2.3558 inch 1000 yards = 10.47 inch1000 yards = 2.6175 inch

Let us consider a few real-world examples using these more acute numbers. The bullet drop of a Norma 150 grain, 7mm Magnum bullet is 21 inches at 400 yards. Compensating for this drop would require an adjustment of 20 increments of one-quarter MOA for a total of 5 MOA because one minute of arc equals 4.188 inches at that distance.

Suppose you are shooting a 180 Grain Remington Express in 30.06, from a rifle zeroed at 200 yards. The range of your target is 400 yards, producing a bullet drop of 23 inches. You are shooting to the north and there is a 10 mph wind from the east. In order to compensate for the drop, you would need to adjust the elevation turret up by 22 increments. Wind drift would be about 12 inches, based on the known ballistic coefficient for that bullet, requiring a windage turret adjustment of 11 increments to the right for a total change of nearly 3 MOA.

MRAD — Milliradian

Brief

A radian or “rad” is the standard unit of angular measure used in many areas of mathematics. A Radian is slightly under 57.3 degrees. A milliradian or “mil” is one thousandth of a radian. There are approximately 6283 mils in a full circle.

Just as arcminutes have a predetermined value at various ranges, so do milliradians. These are typically expressed in meters (metric system) rather than yards, for reasons we will examine shortly. Milliradian scopes usually adjust in one-tenth (.10) increments because one full mil makes a sizable difference, even at 100 meters.

The deflection of .10 mils is understood to be 1 cm at 100 meters, 2 cm at 200 meters and 3 cm at 300 meters. The fact that the milliradian system works out to whole numbers makes calculating trajectory and adjusting for windage and elevation very straightforward. If, for example, you have to account for a bullet drop of 33 cm at 300 meters, you would need to adjust the elevation turret up by 11 increments. Compensating for wind drift of 3 cm to the right at 100 meters would require an adjustment of 3 increments to the left.

In Depth

The milliradian system is an International System of Units (SI) derived method of angular measurement. All SI units are based on science. A radian is mathematically defined as an arc-length equal to the radius of its circle. Therefore, the milliradian or “mil” is equal to 1/1000th of the radius. It was first proposed by Swiss engineer, Charles-Marc Dapples, in the mid-nineteenth century and came into prominent use for French artillery during World War I.

The established deflection of .10 mils is .9999 centimeters (cm) at 100 meters, or for all practical purposes, 1 cm. A difference of one ten-thousandth (.0001) of a centimeter is simply too small to be worthy of distinction. Even at 1000 meters, the margin of error would be a mere 1000th of a centimeter (99.99 vs 100 cm). Therefore, at 200 meters a tenth of a mil is considered 2 cm and at 300 meters it is 3 cm. We can extrapolate from these numbers to produce the table below.

Mil DeviationsIncremental Scope Adjustments of 0.10 Mils 100 meters = 10 cm100 meters = 1.0 cm 200 meters = 20 cm200 meters = 2.0 cm 300 meters = 30 cm300 meters = 3.0 cm 400 meters = 40 cm400 meters = 4.0 cm 500 meters = 50 cm500 meters = 5.0 cm 600 meters = 60 cm600 meters = 6.0 cm 700 meters = 70 cm700 meters = 7.0 cm 800 meters = 80 cm800 meters = 8.0 cm 900 meters = 90 cm900 meters = 9.0 cm 1000 meters = 100 cm1000 meters = 10.0 cm

Table 1. Mil and 0.10 mil deviations at ranges from 100 to 1000 meters.

Now for some real-world examples. Suppose you are firing a 140 grain 7.62 mm bullet, from a weapon zeroed at 100 meters, at a target that is 300 meters down range. The bullet drop would be 42 centimeters. You would need to adjust the elevation turret up by 14 increments, since each tenth of a mil would equal 3 cm at that distance. Next you are sighting with a Hornady 140 grain 6.5 mm Creedmoor at 500 meters and it is hitting 5 cm to the right. You would need to adjust your windage turret 1 increment to the left, since each tenth of a mil equals 5 cm at 500 meters.

MOA vs. MRAD

Each system has advantages. Here are a few considerations:

MOA Advantages

• 1/4 MOA adjustments (2.1675″@1000 yards) are nearly twice as refined as 1/10 mil adjustments (3.93701″@1000 yards).
• MOA is more familiar if you live in a country that uses Imperial measurements.
• Most ballistic tables are in feet and yards.

MRAD Advantages

• Base 10 metric values calculate more easily.
• More high-end equipment is MRAD & more pros use it.
• The US Military and many other forces around the globe have standardized on MRAD, influencing production & use.

Beyond this, both systems are equally effective. The question is not which is superior but which is better for you. Generally, if you are more comfortable with the Imperial system of measurements (inches, feet, yards), than the MOA system will feel more familiar. If you favor the Metric system (centimeters, meters), then MRAD may quickly seem like an old friend. Whichever system you choose, you will probably require at least a passing understanding of the other because they overlap in some important ways.

• Many scopes mix the two systems, having a mil dot reticle but turret adjustments in one-quarter minutes of arc.
• Although math is simpler in the base-10 metric system, most ballistic charts are in imperial measurements, requiring conversion from feet and yards to centimeters and meters.

Subtension

Subtension refers to the length of arc at a set distance, described by two radii that are separated by a certain angle. Subtension is a relative term and subject to the system of measurement used. In the context of MOA, for example, it would be evaluated in arcminutes, yards and inches.

So, imagine that you are looking at an object at a distance of 100 yards and the width of your view is two minutes of arc. The subtension would be 2.094 inches. We would say that the angle of two MOA is subtended by an arc distance of 2.094 inches at 100 yards. Not surprisingly, an arc of one milliradian at 300 meters is subtended by a circumferential distance of 30 centimeters. While these terms may seem initially confusing, speaking correctly about such concepts is the beginning of thinking correctly about them and ultimately leads to the power of using them properly.

Subtension becomes valuable when using a scope reticle to calculate the size or distance of an object, as well as the accuracy of shot placement. Next we will examine the application of subtension for this purpose in greater detail.

Triangulation

The process of determining a distance or location by using the knowledge of two other points is known as triangulation. It applies equally to MOA and MRAD and the principles are the same. We will use the latter for illustration because the math is more transparent.

Mil scopes are those with turrets that adjust in increments of mils and also have crosshairs that are segmented into mils (the space between one dot center and another). Milliradian measurements can be used to zero your scope at a given range, assess your shot groupings, determine the size of a target or calculate the range.

You can determine the accuracy of your shots from a known distance by using the reticle as a ruler. If your rangefinder reads 1000 meters and your bullet lands 1 mil-space to the right, then you are off by about 100 cm or 1 meter (subtension). The size of groupings can be found by the same method. If your shots appear to be separated by no more than a mil at 1000 meters, then they are all within 1 meter of each other. Similarly, a target image that appears to be 1 mil high at a range of 1000 meters is actually about 1 meter tall. You can also calculate the range in meters if the target size is known. Just divide the size of your target in millimeters by the number of mils it spans on the reticle. Let us say that you are firing upon a paper sheet that is 1 meter square (1000 mm) and it spans 1 mil on the reticle. Dividing 1000 by 1 yields a quotient of 1000. The range is 1000 meters.

Magnification

Magnification is an important consideration when triangulating. If the reticle is installed on the first focal plane of the scope, it will alter by magnification exactly as the view and remain constant with respect to target image. Such a reticle may be used at every level of amplification. However, if the reticle is installed on the second focal plane, it will remain fixed in size as the view changes, varying the ratio between mils and image. In this case, triangulation may only be performed at one designated magnification; usually at the highest point or halfway.

Calculations and Conversions

Here are some formulae that make manipulating both Imperial and Metric measurements more accessible:

Formulae for Milliradian Based Reticles

Distance to Target (Yards): D=H/I×1000Where D is target distance (yards), H is target height (yards), I is image size (mils), and the quotient is multiplied by a factor of 1000.

Distance to Target (Yards): D=H/I×27.77Where D is target distance (yards), H is target height (inches), I is image size (mils), and the quotient is multiplied by a factor of 27.77.

Distance to Target (Meters): D=H/I×25.40Where D is target distance (meters), H is target height (inches), I is image size (mils), and the quotient is multiplied by a factor of 25.40.

Distance to Target (Meters): D=H/I×1000Where D is target distance (meters), H is target height (meters), I is image size (mils), and the quotient is multiplied by a factor of 1000.

Distance to Target (Meters): D=H/I×10Where D is target distance (meters), H is target height (centimeters), I is image size (mils), and the quotient is multiplied by a factor of 10.

Formulae for Arcminute Based Reticles

Distance to Target (Yards): D=H/I×95.5Where D is target distance (yards), H is target height (inches), I is image size (MOA), and the quotient is multiplied by a factor of 95.5.

Distance to Target (Meters): D=H/I×87.30Where D is target distance (meters), H is target height (inches), I is image size (MOA), and the quotient is multiplied by a factor of 87.30.

Distance to Target (Meters): D=H/I×3438Where D is target distance (meters), H is target height (meters), I is image size (MOA), and the quotient is multiplied by a factor of 3438.

Distance to Target (Meters): D=H/I×34.38Where D is target distance (meters), H is target height (centimeters), I is image size (MOA), and the quotient is multiplied by a factor of 34.38.

Application

So far, our examination of this subject has been mostly theoretical and the calculations approximate. In the field, there are many considerations. You need to watch a few hundred bullets of your favorite caliber go down range from your preferred setup before you can make calls that result in consistent hits at distances well over 100 yards. Still, shooting accurately begins with assumptions based on theory. Then it must be refined by hard core experience. There is no shortcut to shooting accurately in such highly variable situations as big-game hunting or battle. You just have to live there for a bit. Keeping that in mind, here is some useful advice.

Scope and Mount

Standardize on ONE System

Choose a scope that has reticle segments and turret increments in the same system and mount similar scopes on ALL of your weapons. Use either an MOA reticle and 0.25″ MOA adjustments or a mil-dot reticle and 0.1 MRAD adjustments. Splitting between the two will add an additional layer of complexity to your calculations when zeroing, ranging, etc.

Mount and Align Your Scope

Mount your scope as low as possible, using established procedures. This process has many variables and is beyond the breadth of this article. If you are unsure, have a gunsmith mount it for you.

Set Eye Relief

Check and adjust the eye relief. If the focal distance of the scope is not adjusted correctly, it will strike your forehead when the weapon recoils and cut a neat ring into your skin.

Align the Reticle

Make sure that the cross hairs are exactly in line with the vertical and horizontal planes. If they are not, all of your adjustments will be off. This condition is referred to as reticle cant.

Sighting In

Get Set & Level

Get yourself and the weapon set and solidly supported in a comfortable position, on a level plane. All testing and adjustments depend upon your steadiness and precision in handling the weapon.

Zero Point

Decide on a point at which you want the rifle to be dead-on. This should be chosen based on the bullet trajectory and your anticipated shooting range. Bullets travel in an arc, at first rising slightly with energy and then falling as they succumb to gravity. Consequently, your Point-of-Aim (POA) and Point-of-Impact (POI) intersect at two points: early and later in flight. Typically, you want to adjust the zero point so that where you are aiming and where the bullet will strike are close over a significant distance. Thus, you have a spectrum of ranges at which you will be accurate within a few inches.

In some cases your shooting distances may far exceed the overlap between POA and POI. In that case, you should make the weapon accurate at the target range you are most likely to encounter.

Test, Test & Test

Test repeatedly in three-shot groups, adjusting the weapon according to your results. Use the same factory ammunition or carefully constructed reloads every time, at the test bench and when engaged in the field.

Try to limit the variables with each testing session. Go at the same time of day, in the same weather, using your usual mode of dress, etc. Later during practice, you will deliberately alter these variables to improve your coping skills.

Ranging and Sizing

Making determinations of target size and range requires a keen eye for detail because images may appear quite small at a distance. Conversely, your target may be larger than the segmented portion of the reticule. Thus, arriving at accurate reading requires you to make an educated assessment. Here are a few pointers:

Multiply & Divide

Suppose your target is less than one graduation or is one plus a fraction. Compare the fraction with the next whole segment on the crosshair. Is it a forth, half, three-quarters?

What if your target is larger than the graduated portion of the crosshairs? Most scopes only span about 10 graduations along each axis (5 on either side of center for both vertical or horizontal). Position the scope so that one side of the target is at the edge of the dots or lines. How much of the target image is off the graduated portion? Imagine the dots or lines continuing. How many would there be? Another tactic is to divide your subject in half or into quarters and measure a section. Then multiply your reading accordingly to obtain the correct product number that represents the whole.

Increase Your Average

It may be difficult to assess the size or proximity of a target if it is standing on a hill, positioned at an angle, or shifting posture. In this case, it may be useful to take multiple measurements and average the results to obtain a more accurate product. Suppose you are targeting a pronghorn buck that is grazing on a hill. This animal is known to be about 36-40″ high at the shoulder. Use your reticle to measure the height from the shoulder to the front hooves. Now, readjust and evaluate the distance from the top of the hind quarters to the rear hooves. Add the two numbers and divide the sum by two. If your final value is 6 MOA, the buck is approximately 600 yards distant.

You can use the same technique when the subject has assumed two different stances while you are watching.

Scale

What if your target is standing near a known value, such as a fence line. Livestock fences average about 50 inches in height. Compare your subject to this and calculate accordingly.

Non-Graduated Reticles

Some reticles have only plain crosshairs but that need not defeat your purpose. Perhaps you are evaluating a black bear at 200 meters. While keeping the rifle very steady, put the crosshair at the shoulder of your target. Now use the elevation turret to slowly adjust the crosshairs halfway down to the paws while counting the clicks. You may need to estimate if it is standing in ground cover. Suppose it was 25 increments of 1/10th mil. Your subject is approximately 80 cm or 36 inches tall.

Holds and Windage Adjustments

Calculations do not always turn out clean and even. Sometimes the firing solution falls between adjustments. Suppose, for example that you need a vertical adjustment of 7.5 cm at 300 meters. Since each tenth of a milliradian is equal to 3 cm at that distance, there is no whole number of adjustments or “clicks” that would equal the necessary deviation. In order to compensate, you must perform a hold or hold-over. Making holds can be difficult, since you must estimate how much to aim above your target at a given distance to account for the adjustment. In the previous example, adjusting the vertical turret two increments up would elevate the POA 6 cm. Your hold must produce an elevation of 1.5 cm to complete the solution. Looking through a scope at 300 meters, this might be barely the thickness of the crosshair!

Holds are not always made because the solution lay between clicks. Suppose you are sitting on a powerline slash and an eight-point, white-tail buck crosses your field of vision at 150 yards. He will be back in the woods in a matter of seconds. There is no time to adjust your scope before you take the shot. If your rifle is zeroed at one-hundred yards, you will need to compensate by estimating how much to aim over your target for a strike.

Likewise, windage adjustments must sometimes be made on-the-fly. This is also referred to as Kentucky windage, no doubt a reference to the famed Kentucky frontier rifle and the skill of the men who used it. If you are compensating for a wind drift of 7.5 inches to the left at 300 yards, two clicks would bring you approximately six and a quarter inches of change. You would need to adjust your POA slightly to account for the remaining inch and a quarter.

Kentucky windage is used not only to account for motion of the air but also in leading a fast moving subject such as a bird in flight. Even though your target is moving much slower than a bullet, it will not be in the same place when the bullet arrives. You must aim ahead of your target enough to compensate for its forward motion while the bullet travels down range. Leading a moving object is a complex topic and performing it well is an art acquired over time. While it is beyond the breadth of this article, there are many fine writings available to instruct you.

One very useful tool for developing skill at windage adjustments is the Beaufort scale. It uses a series of common observations to estimate wind speed. One way to make your judgment of wind speed acute is to train with an anemometer. Digital anemometers accurately measure wind speed and are very affordable. Once you have used such a device to calibrate your perception of the wind, you can make precise calls on-the-fly with nothing but your five senses.

The Beaufort Scale

1mph-3 mphSmoke moves in direction of wind, slight movement of grass. 4 mph-7 mphWind felt lightly on the face *Very Accurate* 8 mph-12 mphLeaves turn, twigs and treetops will be in motion. 13 mph-18 mphLoose paper, dust, and paper will blow around, small tree branches will move. 19 mph-25 mphLarge tree branches move, entire trees will sway if small. 25 mph-30 mphLarge branches will be in constant motion and walking against the wind becomes difficult.

Between the Lines

Fine shooting is both a science and an art, which is why skilled shooters are so highly respected. There is much that falls between the measurements and calibrations. Equipment factors such as scope mount, action type, barrel length, rifling twist rate, bullet configuration, fouling and even barrel flux resulting from high temperature-among others-all affect placement. Your strength, visual acuity, breathing, shooting position, steadiness and mood determine your mastery over the weapon. Add situational variables including wind, altitude (which changes air density), luminosity, visibility, angle of inclination, distance and so on, and you have an infinitely fluid equation that results in a different answer every time. How well you control and interpret these elements will make the difference between a hit and a miss.

One way to improve your skill is to practice with known target sizes, at given distances, under varying conditions. Deliberately set up so that the target image is too small or too large, the wind and light are different, you are shooting up or down hill, etc. How does a 125 cm target look at 400 meters? What about a 9 inch target at 100 yards? How does your perception change in low light at dawn or dusk? What happens when you are shooting up toward your target?

This sort of practice will gradually calibrate your eye and your mind until it becomes an extension of the scope. You will, in effect, become one with your weapon. In fact, the truth is that YOU are the weapon. The rifle is merely a tool.

Use the information you have obtained here to improve your performance. Happy shooting!

This article is the outcome of much research and the first-hand practice of many shooters. However, individual experiences vary. If you have results that differ from ours or conflict with our findings, we would love to hear your perspective.