A break barrel air rifle is a great investment for anyone who enjoys hunting or shooting. However, like any other firearm, it requires regular maintenance to keep it in good working condition. In this blog post, we’ll walk you through the steps of how to clean a break barrel air rifle so that you can keep it in a top shape.

Clean The Barrel (Internal)

Use a bore guide to protect the muzzle and chamber of your air rifle while you clean the barrel. Insert a cleaning rod into the bore guide, and attach a patch jag to the end of the rod. Soak a cleaning patch in gun solvent, and run it through the barrel from breech to muzzle several times. Repeat this process with a dry patch until the patches come out clean. Finally, run a few patches soaked in gun oil through the barrel to protect it from rust.

Clean the Barrel (External)

Use a soft cloth to wipe down the outside of the barrel. Be sure to pay special attention to the breach area, as this is where dirt and debris are most likely to build up.

Clean the scope

Use a soft cloth or lens brush to remove any dust or fingerprints from the surface of your scope lens. If there is any build-up on the lens, you can use lens cleaner and a soft cloth to gently remove it.
Never use harsh chemicals or abrasive materials on your scope lens, as this could damage it.

Clean The Woodwork

Use a soft cloth or polish specifically designed for wood surfaces to wipe down your air rifle’s stock. Be sure not to use any harsh chemicals or cleaners, as these can damage the wood.

Clean The Action

The action is the part of your air rifle that loads, cocks, and fires the pellets. To clean it, start by removing any dirt and debris with a soft brush or cloth. Once you’ve removed all of the visible dirt, lightly lubricate all moving parts with gun oil before reassembling your air rifle.

Clean The Trigger

Remove any dirt or debris from around the trigger using a small brush or toothpick. Then, lightly lubricate the trigger mechanism with gun oil before reassembling your air rifle.

Conclusion

By following these simple steps, you can easily clean your break barrel air rifle and keep it in good working condition for years to come. Regular cleaning and maintenance will also help increase its accuracy and lifespan. Thanks for reading!

South Africa isn’t often associated with long-range hunting. Many of the game ranches in this vast country are covered with dense bush that limits shots to a couple hundred yards or less. There are exceptions, however, and the Umkomaas Valley is one of them. Located in the KwaZulu-Natal province on the eastern edge of South Africa, the Umkomaas Valley is a 120,000-acre wilderness that borders its namesake river. KwaZulu-Natal is the homeland of the Zulu people, whose warrior King Shaka developed new weapons and tactics, allowing the tribe to gain control over many of the surrounding areas stretching as far north as Mozambique and deep into the interior of South Africa. It’s been said the Zulu stopped the southward expansion of East Africa’s powerful Masai warriors—or perhaps the Masai stopped the northward expansion of the Zulu.

Our hunting party flew from Johannesburg toward the city of Durban, one of the busiest ports on Africa’s Indian coast, passing over a patchwork of agricultural fields perched on the east and west rims of the Umkomaas Valley. The valley itself is a dark, irregular scar on the landscape with high, rocky cliffs and steep slopes covered by snarled thorns. With no fences and minimal hunting, the valley is home to a wide array of endemic African antelope species including Cape bushbuck, Cape kudu, zebra, eland, duiker, and others.

There are also many warthogs, a half-dozen of which were kneeling on their forelegs and trimming the grass around Crusader Safaris’ Umkomaas Valley tented camp when we arrived. The sun was already behind the canyon rim when we began unloading our gear. Crusader Safaris owner Andrew Pringle directed me toward my own canvas tent while a baboon barked in the high rocks above us. By the time I was settled the only sounds in the valley were the hum of insects and the sloshing of the river.

Of the dozens of species of game to pursue in the Umkomaas, a big bull nyala was what I wanted most. Properly referred to as the common nyala (which doesn’t do this species justice: How could a 400-pound animal with ivory-tipped horns, striking chestnut, gray, and white markings, and a magnificent mane qualify as common?), this spiral-horned antelope exists naturally in few places in Africa, and nowhere does it exist in higher concentrations than in KwaZulu-Natal. In fact, some of the biggest nyala bulls on record were killed within a few miles of Crusader’s Umkomaas camp.

The Rifle & Cartridge

By the time I arrived in South Africa in late 2018, the .300 Precision Rifle Cartridge (PRC) had been announced to the public and a handful of long-range shooters were already using the round to ring steel out past a mile. The powerful new cartridge promised good things: based on a .375 Ruger case, the .300 PRC requires a magnum bolt face, but unlike belted magnums, the full-diameter .375 Ruger case allows for substantial powder payloads. The .300 PRC headspaces off its 30-degree shoulder and chamber drawings are precise. Hornady’s initial match load pushes a 225-grain, polymer-tipped ELD Match bullet with a ballistic coefficient of .777 (G1) at 2,810 feet per second, which is nipping at the .338 Lapua’s heels.

The Lapua excels at long-range shooting, but there are only a handful of hunters that carry Lapua rifles in the field. What about the .300 PRC? I wondered if it would make a sensible all-purpose rifle, especially given the popularity of established rounds like .300 Win. Mag., .300 Weatherby Mag., and the .300 WSM. The .300 PRC hadn’t been used extensively in the field to that point. It was powerful and accurate, but was it practical? And did it offer any real advantage over older rounds?

George Gardiner at GA Precision built several early .300 PRC rifles using Templar V2 actions and I carried one of those guns in the Umkomaas. It wasn’t particularly light, with its 26-inch barrel and removable brake, but it was supremely accurate. At 100 yards the GA rifle would place three 212-grain ELD-X hunting bullets close enough to touch, and five shots under an inch was no problem. The early adopters of the .300 PRC said it was the most accurate of the .30-caliber magnums they’d shot, and I’ve found the same to be true.

I topped the rifle with a Trijicon AccuPoint 2.5-12×42 with a green illuminated reticle. For dedicated long-range testing, I would have chosen greater top-end magnification, but the Trijicon’s low 2.5x magnification was important. While I might shoot a nyala at 400 yards, a 40-yard shot through thick brush was also possible. For that, I needed the additional field of view. I also needed a scope that could withstand being bounced around in the bellies of planes, abuse from baggage handlers, and heavy recoil. The AccuPoint checked all those boxes. I double-checked my zero at 100 yards when I arrived at camp and there was no shift in point of impact.

The Nyala Trail

African winter nights can be quite cold. As dim purple light brightened the eastern horizon and the jackals yapped on the crest of the ridges, I slipped from my bed and pulled on extra layers of clothing. After coffee at the main dining patio, I met Professional Hunter Rad Robertson and together we loaded my gear into his Toyota Hilux pickup. We were hunting farther up the valley and needed an early start. The rest of the camp began to stir as we left and began climbing to the rim of the valley.

By sunrise the Hilux was bouncing through dry watercourses along the river’s edge. I’d seen a half-dozen nyala that morning, including what I thought was a particularly good bull, but one that Rad elected to pass. Nyala are creatures of habit who follow the same trails and prefer to hide in familiar patches of thorn. Late in the morning Rad and I found one trail that was particularly well-worn. We climbed through a forest of tombstone-gray eucalyptus trees and settled on a narrow hummock—an ideal glassing point. We did see several nyala cows, which are lighter in build and color than bulls, browsing along the edge of the primary trail that wound through the trees along a dry riverbed below.

It was late in the day when Rad decided to move and check a narrow bowl higher up the mountain. The higher country was much more open and if we found a bull the shot might be 400 yards or more. It wasn’t long until we saw game: A herd of dusty-gray kudu cows were browsing in the blackthorn trees halfway to the top. Their broad ears flapped as they stretched their long, thin necks up to pick the choicest leaves.

Rad, who was resting against the base of an aloe tree, told me he saw a bull. Above the cows a single dark animal moved through the knee-high, winter-dry grass. I looked at the bull through my binocular and waited in silence for Rad’s decision. When the bull started down the spine of the hill 300 yards away, Rad decided the horns measured between 25 and 26-inches. We could find a bigger bull.

We were ready to pull stakes and head back to camp for a braai when Rad told me saw another nyala. He had seen this bull before and recognized its wide, heavy horns which measured perhaps 27 inches in length, which wasn’t much better than the first. But the second bull’s horns were much wider with deeper curls and greater girth. The animal’s shaggy body was noticeably larger than the first, too.

The bull vanished into a thin band of trees and our only course of action was to drop down into the valley and slip back up the other side. With all the game scattered throughout the bowl and across the ridge it would be hard to avoid detection, but we decided to try our luck.

Grey columns of clouds pushed inland from the Indian Ocean and darkened the hills. Carefully avoiding the wait-a-bit thorns and ever vigilant for snakes in the hip-high grass we made our way up through the forest, past the kudu herd and into the trees where we’d last seen the nyala. The bull had moved and Rad spotted him just 70 yards away. I shouldered the rifle, but could plainly see a single bent branch that had been invisible to the naked eye. The branch covered the bull’s vitals, and I held my shot until the bull disappeared into the dark forest.

Minutes later we saw a bull come out along the far edge of the trees farther down the slope. Rad insisted on glassing the animal first because he didn’t want to shoot the smaller bull by accident, but soon confirmed the animal walking across the ridge below us was indeed the older bull.

With shooting sticks to stabilize the rifle and an aloe tree serving as a brace I was quite steady and could see the seam of the front leg. Holding a third of the way to the top of the shoulder I pressed the safety forward, slowed my breath, and shot.

There was a flash of orange flame from the muzzle and all I could see was a halo of light impressions dancing in my eyes. The tracker initially reported that he didn’t find any blood or signs that the nyala had been hit, which concerned me, but in the tall grass thirty yards from where the bullet struck, the bull lay stretched out dead in mid stride. Nyala are impressive animals, but being close enough to touch one offers a close look at their striking features.

The horns are deep walnut in color with semi-translucent tips and are neatly curved. White marks like warpaint dot the face (including the characteristic chevron) and the long hairs of the animal’s mane are banded in shades of black, gray, and tan. At nightfall, we headed down the mountain with my bull.

Mixed Bag

With a bit of luck and some good shooting, a hunter in the Umkomaas Valley could harvest more game in a week-long safari than most North American hunters collect in a decade. Modern safaris are a great way to experience Africa as it was in the glory days, and it’s an important means to feed a community where cattle are scarce and beef is costly (which, in turn, prevents the need for poaching).

These hunts are also a great way to test bullet performance because you have animals of varying sizes offering differing shot angles and ranges. Hornady’s Neal Emery hung around the skinning shed collecting .300 PRC ELD-X bullets from the game that he and I shot. We had a broad selection of animals, too. By the middle of the week, I’d killed a cape bushbuck ram with a high uphill shot measuring about 320 yards, and I tagged an incredibly old common reedbuck ram under almost the same conditions the following day at the far end of the valley.

On the day I killed my reedbuck, Emery shot a larger ram in the same area at about 400 yards. Interestingly, we were able to collect bullets from other hunters in camp who were using .300 Win. Mag. and .300 H&H rifles, and the .300 PRC performed well compared to those older rounds. The .300 PRC didn’t create excessive wound channels and terminal performance was superb on animals ranging from 100 to 450 pounds at distances from 50 yards to over 500 yards. We finished the safari by shooting across a canyon at distances to 1,400 yards. The .300 PRC shines as a target round, of course, and the extraordinarily accurate GA Precision rifles made hitting targets at long range no chore.

The .300 PRC is indeed a great target round, but it’s an equally adept big-game cartridge capable of taking most any game at extended ranges. I came away from the Umkomaas Valley with an appreciation not only for the forward-thinking design of the cartridge but a sincere appreciation for its outstanding versatility.

If you own a good rifle chambered in .300 PRC there’s little you can’t do with it so long as you can handle the recoil, which is substantial but manageable. Hornady makes a compelling case that they’ve developed a multi-purpose cartridge that’s perfectly suited for the shooter who wants a target gun that’s also capable of tackling big-game hunts in every corner of the globe.

The cottonwood tree is one of the most popular tree species in the world. Going by the scientific name Populus Deltoides, the tree originates from and is common in North America, growing in the US, Canada, and Mexico.

Read on to learn more about how to identify this beautiful tree…

The trees come in different varieties and are identified quite easily using their subspecies names. Cottonwood trees growing in southern Canada and the Eastern US come from the subspecies Deltoides, while those growing in the Southern part of Canada and the Central sections of the US go by the subspecies name Monilifera. The Wislizeni subspecies grows in the southern parts of Colorado, Texas, and Mexico.

All these subspecies of the cottonwood tree can grow to a height of up to 60 meters and a diameter of about 3 meters, making it one of the largest hardwood trees in North America.

For optimal growth, the trees grow around rivers and floodplains to access water.

As noted earlier, the cottonwood tree has three different subspecies spread out across North America. The Deltoides subspecies grow in the southern-eastern parts of Canada and the Eastern parts of the US. Some of the notable areas include Ontario, Quebec, North Dakota, and Texas.

In comparison, the Monilifera subspecies grow in south-central Canada, the central US, and New Mexico. Cities in these areas include Manitoba and Alberta.

The final subspecies of the tree is termed Wislizeni. It grows mostly in southern Colorado, Texas, Mexico, and California. Identifying the cottonwood tree and distinguishing each of these tree species is quite a task. Fortunately, we’ve got you covered. In the next sections, we offer a guide on identifying the cottonwood trees and distinguishing their various varieties. We will start by looking at how cottonwood trees germinate and spread.

How Cottonwood Tree Seeds Germinate and Spread

As noted earlier, the eastern cottonwood tree grows mostly in the east side of the US, stretching all the way into Canada. The tree grows in a wide range of soil types. However, for optimal growth, well-drained soils along river banks are recommended.

The tree is also diecious, implying the male and female flowers grow on separate trees.1 Usually, the male flowers and buds grow earlier than female buds. They also tend to bloom much faster than their female counterparts.

The seeds of the tree develop in capsules hosted by short stalks. Under most conditions, the trees start producing seeds at the age of 5 to 10 years. Seed dispersal happens about two months after flowering. Water and wind are the seed’s main dispersal agents. Since most cottonwood trees grow around water bodies, the water medium and winds in such locations carry the seeds, dispersing them in the process. Unfortunately, the viability of the seeds is a bit low. To germinate, they must find moist seedbeds or be immersed in water, conditions that are not always readily available.

Nevertheless, the seeds can enjoy a germination rate of as high as 90 percent under the right conditions.1 These optimal conditions include sufficient sunlight to supply solar energy and soil moisture to supply water for photosynthesis. The growth of the seeds starts slowly.

Once the root zone is developed, the rate of growth is much faster. This fast and steady pace of growth is maintained throughout the tree’s lifetime. One feature of the tree worth noting that affects its growth is its shading tolerance.

In this regard, cottonwood trees are shade intolerant. They are one of the most shade-intolerant hardwood tree species, coming second to only the Black Willow.

Both of these trees grow in the same areas, competing for light and water. However, cottonwood trees tend to outgrow Black Willows, especially in stable water and sunlight levels1 Having discussed how cottonwood trees germinate, let’s now review how the trees look like.

What Do Cottonwood Trees Look Like?

Flowers of Cottonwood Trees

Cottonwood trees are easy to identify from their flowers, leaves, barks, and seeds. The male and female flowers grow on separate trees, a property identified by the term dioecious.2

The flowers are contained in about 3 inches of catkins. Each catkin has about 15 to 40 buds and is uniform in length. The flowers in the catkins appear before the leaves and are usually pollinated by winds.

The male flowers in the catkins protrude from the tree’s branches in clusters of about 2 to 4 inches. They are typically red and yellow with between 30 and 40 stamens. In comparison, female flowers are green and appear singly. Each female flower has a separate stalk.

Leaves of Cottonwood Trees

The leaves of cottonwood trees are triangular with a heart-shaped base that tapers to a long-pointed tip. They can grow to about 7 inches long and 5 inches wide and are shiny green on the top and slightly pale on the underside.2

The stalks of the leaves are long and slender, with two glands at the top. The heterophyllous property of the leaf is perhaps its most distinguishing property. Regarding this, cottonwood trees have two types of leaves; those formed during early winter and those produced later in the season.

The trees use the leaves that grow in early winter for early spring growth, while those growing later in the season are for full maturity. The leaves are distinguishable based on their size and number of teeth, with the former having smaller and fewer teeth than the latter.

Barks of Cottonwood Trees

The barks of cottonwood trees vary in texture, color, and furrowed depth depending on the tree’s age. Typically, young trees will have smooth, shallow furrowed, light grey to yellow-green bark. 2

As the trees grow and mature, the bark’s color changes to gray and becomes rougher, and deeply furrowed. The twigs from the bark are brown and angled, with large buds of about three-quarter inches long. Green-brown resin scales cover the bark of the tree.

Seeds of Cotton Wood Trees

The seeds of cottonwood trees are formed after the pollination of flowers. Before fertilization, female catkins are about 6 inches long. Once fertilized, they produce elliptical shaped seed capsules that are initially green in color.

With time, the seeds turn brown, and the capsules split, releasing about 7 to 10 seeds. The seeds are usually attached to a white cotton-like thread that is easily dispersed by the wind.

Cottonwood trees start producing seeds at five years old, with their peak productivity coming at fifteen years.2 From that point onward, the trees will continue producing seeds for the rest of their life cycle.

Habitats of Cottonwood Trees

Cottonwoods grow in mostly riparian areas such as streams, rivers, and wetlands. The combined ecosystem of the cottonwood trees and marshlands offers an amazing habitat for different species of animals.

Some animals in this habitat include beavers, which feed on cottonwood’s tree barks, shoots, and stems. They also burrow holes into the trees to form their homes. Raptors, otherwise known as birds of prey, use cottonwoods as nests, while insects feed on the bark and other parts of the tree.

So vast is the biodiversity in cottonwood tree habitats that researchers estimate about 40 different animal species benefit from these trees.4 Other animal species in cottonwood forests include moose, deer, elk, insects, and birds.

The Cottonwood Tree Habitat’s Value to Plants

The Eastern cottonwood tree is by far the most predominant plant species in the flood plains of the US. The floods in these locations create ideal conditions for the growth of trees and other species.

Within these locations, cottonwood trees grow in pure and mixed stands. Other tree species that grow side by side with the cottonwood tree in these habitats include the white oak, black-berry, American hornbeam, and basswood. These riparian habitats that host cottonwood trees are also known to have common shrubs such as the Northern spicebush, black tupelo, and sand oak.8

Graminoid tree species in the habitats include wheatgrass, sand dune, switchgrass, and Indiana grass. These habitats are also known to have forbs (herbaceous flowering plant other than a grass) and vines. Common ones include the Asian bittersweet, poison ivy, trumpet creeper, and Virginia creeper.

Some cottonwood species grow in plains. In such habitats, tree species associated with the cottonwood tree include the green ash, American elm, and Russian olive. Shrubs in plain cottonwood habitats include the rocky mountain marple, douglas hawthorn, and Eastern wahoo. Graminoids in this location include the blue grama, Cheatgrass, and Canada wildrye. Forbs and vines include the Virginia creeper, pepper vine, and long root smartweed.

The Cottonwood Tree Habitat’s Value to Animals

Cottonwood tree habitats are exceedingly important for animal life. Eastern cottonwood trees are classified as having a fair value for most wildlife species, including songbirds, game birds, and game mammals.

For example, the northern Great Plains, which hosts eastern cottonwood trees, provides about 50 percent of deer habitats and 70 percent of the habitats for the sharp tailed grouse. Palin cottonwood regions support about 82 percent of the bird species in Colorado.8

As noted earlier, cottonwoods have three subspecies. In more casual terminology, these subspecies are termed Eastern Cottonwood, Black Cottonwood, and Fremont Cottonwood. Each of these tree types has a unique set of characteristics that sets it apart from the others.

The Eastern Cottonwood Tree

This subspecies is most popular in North America. The tree grows in riparian areas and is considered one of the softest hardwood trees in the region.

The Black Cottonwood

This subspecies grows mostly in rocky mountains. Also called the Western Balsam poplar of the California poplar, this tree is the largest type of Western Cottonwood.

The Fremont Cottonwood

This subspecies grows in California, Utah, Arizona, and Mexico. The tree is quite like the Eastern Cottonwood, save for the larger and fewer leaves and differences in flower and seed pod appearance.

Identification Based on Location

Another way to identify cottonwood trees is by looking at the ecological characteristics of the location of the trees. As noted before, cottonwood trees grow well in areas with sufficient light. The trees are the second most shade-intolerant species in North America.

They also require a lot of water. So much water that most cottonwood trees are grown in riparian areas such as rivers, lakes, and marshlands. Knowing these prerequisite conditions for the growth of the trees makes it easy to locate them.

For instance, in North America, the US’s Central, Eastern and Southwestern states have these conditions. It is therefore not surprising that most of the cottonwood in the country grows in these regions. Similarly, in Canada, cottonwood trees grow along the lakes and rivers in Ontario. Again, these conditions are favorable for the trees. Finding them in such locations is therefore predictable. By knowing the optimal conditions for the growth of the trees, identifying them is as simple as matching the conditions to a corresponding ecosystem.

Identification Based on Nearby Tree Species

Another way to identify cottonwood trees is by looking at the nearby tree species. A limited number of tree species can grow under the conditions favored for cottonwood trees. Therefore, by knowing which trees can grow under similar conditions to cottonwood trees and identifying them, locating cottonwood trees growing nearby is fairly easy.

For example, the black willow tree grows under fairly the same environmental conditions as cottonwood trees. In many locations, the two tree species compete for sun and water. Thus, by identifying black willows in a given site, one is also likely to find cottonwood trees nearby.

Notably, cottonwood trees have more than just ecological value. They are also historical monuments. The story of the Kansas State Capitol – Cottonwood Tree illustrates the historical importance of the tree.

The cottonwood tree is one of the state symbols of Kansas, and is visible in old photos of the capital and the story of how a cottonwood tree became a city symbol is quite an interesting one.

One account provides that the cottonwood tree in the old photos of the Capitol grew in the east wing of the Capitol. It offered a much-appreciated shade for dignitaries of the city, including Benjamin Harrison and Vice President Curtis.

The Kansas Historical Society shares a much more reliable account. The story goes that T.J. Anderson moved to the city in 1865 and bought a house that faced the Capitol. At one point, he noticed a small tree of about three feet growing between some of the building’s stone. He and a fellow professor decided to preserve the tree even during the Capitol’s construction, and that is how it came to appear in the photos.

Fire would later ravage the Capitol’s cottonwood tree in 1882. In 1966 the tree experienced more damage, from the Topeka Tornado that happened that year. In 1983, the Secretary of State, Jack Brier, made several attempts to prevent the tree from collapsing.3 Despite all efforts, the tree finally collapsed at the end of that year.

As one of the native trees in North America, the Cottonwood tree delivered several benefits to the ancient communities of the region.5 Most native communities used the tree for religious practices. In particular, the native tribes of Pueblo and Navajo used the tree extensively in their spiritual practices.

Its roots were sometimes used to make Kachina dolls and other objects of worship used in traditional religious ceremonies. Other ancient tribes used the tree as a source of medicine. The community doctors would use the bark and leaves of the trees to make concoctions that many believed to have healing properties.

The uses of the tree went beyond religious and medicinal applications. Some native communities used the trees to make toys and dugout canoes for sea traveling. The large size of the tree’s trunk makes it possible to create such canoes, while the leaf’s shape makes it suitable for making toy whistles.

Others used the tree to make yellow dyes. The dye comes from the tree’s buds, which have chemicals that, once dried, produce the yellow pigment.

Some communities would even consume the seeds of the trees. The seeds have a sticky feel that gives a gum-like sensation that was a delicacy back in those days.5 Cottonwood trees continue to deliver these benefits and more today.

Modern Uses of Cottonwood Trees

The uses of cottonwood trees have since increased from their native applications. Presently, the tree is used primarily for making lumber and related products.6 The tree is suitable for such applications due to its moisture content and density.

In that regard, cottonwood trees have a very low moisture content of about 12 percent measured on a wet basis, and a light density of about 28 pounds per cubic foot.7 These properties make the tree light, but very strong… exactly what is needed for interior furniture applications.

Consequently, most lumber uses of the tree are limited to interior décor. The mentioned properties of the tree also make it exceedingly suitable for making wood pulp. Wood pulp has been increasing in popularity over the past few years. Cottonwood trees are used to make this pulp that is then used to produce high-quality papers for magazines and books. Important to note here is that the uses of cottonwood are limited to light applications, which, as stated earlier, are due to its low moisture content and light density.

In exterior furniture applications, using this tree is not recommended. Its light properties make it too fragile to carry the immense loads that exterior furniture typically carries. Other modern applications of the tree include usage in making food containers and packaging.

The Legacy of Cottonwood Trees in North America

Cottonwood trees are one of the most popular hardwoods in North America. The tree has several ancient uses, including making carvings used in religious festivals. Modern uses of the tree include mostly lumber and related products, where the tree’s low moisture content and light density is highly desired.

The trees are easy to identify by looking at their flowers, leaves, barks, and seeds, the details of which are covered extensively in this guide. Cottonwood trees also offer a habitat for various animal and plant species, some of which have been listed.

Beyond the mentioned benefits, cottonwood trees have historical value, too. Kansas uses the tree as one of its symbols, a metaphor for strength and longevity. With these tips for how to identify the trees based on their local names, location, and nearby tree species, you can start searching for these trees, and impress your friends with the subspecies.

These trees do more than all of this, though. As hardwood trees, they act as carbon sinks, meaning they suck a large amount of pre-existing carbon dioxide (CO2) out of the air. So, these trees actually have the power to not just slow down climate change, but actually reverse it with their carbon removal capabilities. It’s for this reason that the world needs to conserve these trees, to help them aid the Earth as a whole.

I’ve always been a fan of the Big & J deer attractant and mineral blocks. What if I could make my own deer attractant that works just as well for less money? Of course, I use corn feeders where it’s allowed (check your local hunting regulations regarding baiting), but I also build water troughs and mock scrapes to create an environment that encourages deer activity in my hunting areas.

I also like to provide additional nutritional supplementation to the deer in my hunting areas and that’s where the Big & J deer supplements became part of my plan.

Big & J can become pretty expensive, especially if you have a lot of different hunting areas. This year, I found a recipe for the ultimate deer attractant and supplement that I could make at home for a fraction of the cost of Big & J.

Ultimate Deer Attractant

Ingredients List

• 2 bags of sugar
• 2 bags of brown sugar (dark will last longer than light)
• 2 boxes of baking soda
• 4 packages of cherry jello
• 2 big containers of grape Kool-Aid
• 1 big container of oats
• 2 cans of salt

The Short on YouTube had to be under a minute, so it’s a quick run through of my ultimate deer attractant. Let me offer a few more details about the mix and how I use it.

Mixing and Using the Ingredients

Most of the ingredients are just sweet and attract the deer with the sweetness of the item. The baking soda is the primary ingredient in most store-bought pre-mixed deer attractants and provides valuable minerals to the deer. Same with the salt.

I mix the ingredients in a 5 gallon bucket with a lid. This ingredient list almost filled the whole bucket. Pour all the ingredients in the bucket, secure the lid, and shake, rattle, and roll the bucket to mix the ingredients.

Most of these sugar-heavy ingredients will dissolve in a very short time if you don’t mix it some corn. So, I used a second 5 gallon bucket to mix equal parts of the deer attractant and deer corn. I found this causes the deer attractant to last a few days. You could also add molasses as a binder for a longer lasting deer attractant (it’s what most store bought “blocks” use as a binder).

Does It Work?

I found the deer really enjoyed the attractant and wasted no time finding it and eating it. After 8 years of hunting in West Virginia, I finally bagged my first buck! I like to think the attractant helped, although I also made two critical changes to my hunting area that also contributed to my success (stand location and how I approached the stand).

I didn’t use the attractant in Texas or Pennsylvania. We hunted public land in Pennsylvania where “baiting” is not allowed, so it was not an option. For Texas, we have established feeders that habituate the deer to the feeder locations, so I didn’t really feel the need for additional attractants or supplementation. However, the acorns dropped right before we arrived for hunting season. It’s possible that some additional nutrients (and sugar) could have drawn deer away from the preferred acorn food sources, resulting in more deer activity than we saw, this year.

You should always be sure that baiting is legal in your hunting area before using something like this attractant.

If you’re looking for a quality flashlight but are unsure where to start, it’s likely that an EDC flashlight is exactly what you need.

Long-lasting, powerful and compact in size, EDC flashlights are perfect for shedding light on everyday scenarios, including life-saving emergency situations.

Reliable light is of high value in unforeseen circumstances and an EDC flashlight is the best way to stay prepared.

Quick Takeaways

– EDC, or everyday carry, flashlights are ideal for feeling prepared for the various types of situations you may encounter, including personal safety and emergency standby- Compact, EDC units typically offer between 20-2000 lumens of light, sufficient for both casual daily activities and law enforcement needs- The best high quality EDC flashlights are equipped with a long battery life, impact resistant materials and an Ingress Protection rating of IP66 or higher

EDC flashlights are the perfect source of convenient, accessible light when encountering unexpected situations and are easily obtainable with a well-known name brand like Fenix.

What Is An EDC Flashlight?

EDC is an acronym for “everyday carry”, meaning that EDC flashlights refer to units that can be easily carried for everyday use, typically small enough to store in your pocket.

Although there is some overlap, EDC flashlights are defined by one’s lifestyle, as opposed to other units designed specifically for activities and destinations, such as camping or biking lights.

Everyday carry units are intended to help with anything you find useful. Whether it’s personal safety, emergency situations or shining extra light in a dimly lit closet, EDC units are ideal for feeling prepared for the various types of situations you may encounter.

What To Expect

There are many benefits to EDC flashlights since they are specifically designed to be convenient without sacrificing power. Here’s 5 qualities to look for when you’re on the hunt for a quality EDC flashlight.

Compact

One of the important characteristics of an EDC flashlight is its compact size, allowing for easy portability and accessibility. When shopping for a new unit, look for something that’s small enough to fit into your pocket or purse and the palm of your hand for quick use.

The weight of your flashlight is also important to consider. A heavy unit will feel like a burden to carry and defeat the purpose of having an EDC flashlight. At Fenix, finding a small, lightweight unit without sacrificing functionality and efficiency is easy.

Brightness

The best EDC flashlights use LED bulbs because they are brighter and more efficient than incandescent bulbs. Their light output, or brightness, is measured in lumens and can have anywhere from 20 to 2000 lumens, or more.

When determining the right amount of lumens for your EDC flashlight, consider how you plan to use your unit. If you only need accessible light for reading in the dark, 300-500 lumens is more than enough.

Long Battery Life

Although compact in size, quality EDC flashlights have impressively long run times due to their compatibility with rechargeable batteries.

EDC units that run on lithium or lithium-ion rechargeable batteries will not only appear brighter than those running on alkaline batteries, but also last longer due to a higher capacity for stored power.

In addition, different brightness settings and external battery level indicators found on EDC flashlights make it easy to preserve power for when you need it most.

High IP Rating

An IP rating, or Ingress Protection Rating, is a pair of numbers that represents the level of protection an object has against foreign bodies and moisture, such as dust and water.

To fully understand the different levels of protection an EDC flashlight can have, assess the chart below:

Image Source: www.budind.com

An EDC flashlight with the highest level of protection will have an Ingress Protection rating of IP68, demonstrating quality and likelihood to survive a rainy day or dust storm. A rating of IP66 or higher is ideal for units intended for everyday use.

Impact Resistance

Units intended for frequent use need to be tough in the face of the unknown. High-quality EDC flashlights are made from impact resistant materials, such as:

– High strength aluminum- Toughened glass- Stainless steel

Daily use of your EDC flashlight can take a toll on inexpensive, poorly made devices, ultimately making them unreliable. When you’re shopping for an EDC unit, avoid gear made from easily breakable plastic and low-quality lens material.

Best EDC Flashlights

EDC flashlights are specifically designed to fit every carrying need. Whether you’re looking for a super bright unit or one that clips onto your pocket, Fenix offers one of the best options.

Lightweight

Fenix E03R Keychain Flashlight

Weighing in at only 0.78 oz (22 grams), the Fenix E03R keychain flashlight shines when it comes to ultra-lightweight units. This compact flashlight is less than 2 inches in size and equipped with 260 lumens of bright light.

Latch this undetectable EDC flashlight onto your keychain to benefit from 5 different light settings and a high Ingress Protection rating of IP66.

Clip On

Fenix E28R Rechargeable 18650 EDC Flashlight

Although almost every Fenix flashlight features a convenient body clip, the E28R’s high output, durability and size make this unit one of the best.

This powerful EDC flashlight offers 1500 lumens of light and 5 different brightness settings in a size small enough to fit in the palm of your hand. With a protection rating of IP68, the E28R has everything you need in an EDC flashlight.

Brightness

Fenix E35 V3.0 EDC Flashlight

Fenix’s E35 V3.0 EDC flashlight gives portable and powerful a whole new definition. This unit offers up to 3000 lumens of light with a beam distance of 787 feet with less than 5 inches of length. That’s enough light to conduct Search & Rescue!

When all you need is to illuminate the pages of your latest read, dim this EDC unit down to the lowest of 5 light settings, offering just 50 lumens of light. With its durable aluminum body and 100% resistance to water and dust, no other EDC unit compares to the offerings of Fenix’s E35 V3.0.

Compact

Fenix E30R Rechargeable EDC Flashlight

Rechargeable, long-lasting and fully waterproof, Fenix’s E30R provides big power in a small package. Less than 4 inches in size and weighing under 2oz, this EDC unit goes undetected in your pocket or purse.

Use one of 5 brightness settings to benefit from anywhere between 30-1600 lumens of light and know exactly when it is time to recharge with the 4-level battery indicator.

Self Defense

Fenix UC35 V2.0 LED Rechargeable Flashlight

One of the most comforting features of carrying a quality EDC flashlight is accessibility to a reliable means of self-defense. Fenix’s UC35 V2.0 is not only pocket-sized and far-reaching, but also features a self-defense strobe light setting and an extreme impact resistant body.

This anti-roll and anti-slip design makes reaching for and handling this unit effortless and comfortable. Rechargeable and long-lasting, the UC35 is the perfect unit for military, policing and emergency standby.

Fenix Flashlights For Every Need

EDC flashlights quickly prove their usefulness once you start to carry one. With so many durable and dedicated options, finding the best EDC flashlight is easy with Fenix.

Find the best EDC flashlight for your needs and benefit from long-lasting, compact power by visiting Fenix Store today!

The title of this post is not referring to the stove bans in several states during summer months, which are becoming more and more frequent.

Stove Bans

For those who are unfamiliar with these bans, different government agencies often ban the use of campfires and any stove without an On/Off valve to turn off the stove. Two popular backpacking stove types; solid fuel (usually Esbit) and alcohol stoves are usually explicitly banned. I do question the wisdom of banning solid fuel stoves, which I no longer use due to the high cost of the fuel.

The problem with alcohol stoves, along with any stove or campfire is user error, or perhaps better stated; a lot of people are plain stupid or careless. Except for when it is dark at night, the flame from alcohol stoves is difficult to see. Apparently some people can knock over their alcohol stove while in use (I find this difficult to do and have never had any problem like this) and some have started forest fires because they cannot use an alcohol stove properly.

I have no problem obeying these stove bans. They are put in place for a good reason.

Cost Advantages of Alcohol Fuel Stoves

It is pretty easy to make an alcohol stove from recycled soda cans or cat food cans. If you might be interested in building your own stove do a Google search for “soda can stove” or “pepsi can stove” or” fancy feast stove.”

Several years ago I did a cost analysis of several fuels and found that liquid gas stoves and alcohol fuel stoves were much, much cheaper to operate than gas canister or solid fuel stoves.

Since then I have mostly been using liquid fuel stoves that run on white gas (such as Coleman Fuel), or an alcohol stove using denatured alcohol as its fuel. At the time both were easy to find and inexpensive compared to other fuels.

Obsolescence

Earlier this year, in my long-term 35 year review of the Gaz Globetrotter stove, I complained that over the years several of my canister stoves became obsolete. Not because the stoves quit working, but because the fuel canisters were no longer available. The inability to purchase the fuel canisters rendered the stoves obsolete. Denatured alcohol is no longer legal to sell or purchase in California, which just about makes my alcohol stove obsolete, as I found this fuel to be best for several reasons.

Well, Nick You Live in California . . .

My friends who live in other states often question why I continue to live in the People’s Republic of California with all our regulations and high taxes. The reason I don’t move is because of our great climate and so many outdoor recreation opportunities.

But the people of California didn’t ban denatured alcohol. It was banned by a government agency that doesn’t have a single elected representative of the people, the California Air Resources Board. From Wikipedia:

The Administrative State

A law professor at George Mason University School of Law, Michael Greve, coined the term Administrative State. Greve defines this as,

Professor Greve advocates that this is contrary to the intention of our founding fathers and these government agencies become corrupt seeking power over the people, resulting in despotism.

Pournelle’s Iron Law of Bureaucracy

Jerry Pournelle , the famous polymath, observed this shift in bureaucracies and developed “Pournelle’s iron law of bureaucracy”:

Later Pournelle refined the law to make it easier to understand:

. . . in any bureaucratic organization there will be two kinds of people: those who work to further the actual goals of the organization, and those who work for the organization itself. Examples in education would be teachers who work and sacrifice to teach children, vs. union representatives who work to protect any teacher including the most incompetent. The Iron law states that in all cases, the second type of person will always gain control of the organization, and will always write the rules under which the organization functions.

Government by and for The People

Today it is impossible for any one person to keep up with all the laws passed by local, county, state, federal legislatures, plus all the non-elected entities in our country. It is especially difficult to track all the bureaucracies that now create most of our laws.

Yeah, But That Can’t Happen in the State I Live In

Don’t be so sure. A great example is vehicle emission laws. Years ago, California adopted much more stringent standards than the Federal Government. For many years automakers built two separate models of each car: one for sale in California and one for sale in the other 49 states. Trying to adhere to the many demands of competing agencies that included more and more separate testing and reporting, the carmakers gave up and now build their cars and light trucks to meet the more stringent car and light standards of California. Many states have adopted California’s periodic emission testing methods and expensive testing equipment.

Along with this, we have wealthy moneyed organizations in California lobbying in other states and in Federal Government to institute California’s “better way” across the entire country.

Why California Banned Denatured Alcohol.

I won’t get into the scientific particulars, especially since I am not a scientist. California has banned most consumer and industrial products that contain volatile organic compounds (VOC). Literally thousands of products have been banned and manufacturers must reformulate their products for sale in the Golden state. The range of products includes paints, varnishes, waxes, cleaning, disinfecting, cosmetic, degreasing and hobby products. California has determined VOCs contribute to climate change.

In California we can no longer buy Mineral Sprits now either. As I explained in these two threads about my TrailStar shelter and my Mega Light shelter, diluting silicone with mineral spirits is a popular way to seam seal a tent. No longer the case in my state.

Instead of a long list of affected products, I will just say that we now have cleaners that do not clean, paint remover that doesn’t remove paint, paint and lacquer thinners that don’t thin, paints that don’t paint well, and so on.

There are states nearby that still sell products that work. Often our out of state camping trips include a stop along the way to buy anything I am running low on. A recent trip obtained these items.

Environmental Protection Agency (EPA)

The EPA has thousands and thousands of documents relating to VOCs. Most that I have read are concerned with personal health effects in their handling, especially when used indoors. From what I have read, the EPA’s focus is on communication to warn of side effects if the materials are not handled safely per the products instructions for use and storage – in other words – read the damn instructions!

Keep in mind I haven’t done a comprehensive review of EPA documentation of VOCs. So take my observations with a grain of salt.

Alternative Fuels for Alcohol Stoves

Everclear (190 proof)

This is a brand name for grain alcohol that contains 95% alcohol. I hear it works really well. But few states allow its sale because it is alcohol that can be consumed – the same stuff you find in almost all liquors.

HEET (yellow bottle version)

This stuff works well in an alcohol stove. BUT, it is 95% methanol and can be dangerous to our health. Not only from the fumes of the product itself, but from the fumes generated when burned in a stove. The product is toxic and can even be absorbed into the body from skin contact. I haven’t used it for probably 10 years or so.

You do not want to use HEET that is sold in the red bottles. It works poorly in a stove.

99% Isopropyl Alcohol

Also known as rubbing alcohol. Lower alcohol content (91%, 70%, 50%, etc.) means the alcohol content has been diluted with mostly water. 99% Isopropyl will burn in an alcohol stove. Actually it will boil water faster than most other fuels used in these kinds of stoves. The amount of soot leftover on the stove and pot is considerable. For me, it is so bad that the fuel is a very poor choice for stove fuel.

So that’s about it for fuel options that are viable for use in alcohol stoves.

When (not if) your state follows the lead of the People’s Republic of California, then your alcohol stove will be rendered obsolete.

The antlers on bucks in full velvet have incredible tactile appeal. Every hunter has heard the story of a buddy who harvested a beautiful, trophy-sized buck only to arrive at the taxidermist with a patchy, ragged-looking specimen. Once velvet is off there is no way to reattach it.

That’s right — there’s no way. Not even if you save all the shed velvet and bring it along with your now hard horned set of antlers to the taxidermist. Velvet is like a banana peel. Basically, it’s just a skin, with no real veins running through it. Although some shops offer sprayed-on flocking, the results will likely look too perfect, and unnatural. The flocking process can also run $2.50 per Boone & Crockett inch, so your 200-inch buck suddenly got $500 more expensive to preserve.

Instead, here’s how to preserve the unique characteristics of your buck’s velvet antlers all the way to your taxidermist from a backcountry hunt:

Do Not Touch. Velvet is delicate. In September a buck’s velvet is slick, like a bar of soap, and primed to come off. A buck can rub off all his velvet in 10 minutes; just think what your hands can do if you drag a buck by his antlers. Grab those antlers, pull hard, and you’re likely to end up with your hands full of velvet while the deer stays in the same spot. The oils in your skin will also do two things. First, it will cause the velvet to become nappy and matted, particularly in warm conditions. Second, when it meets the natural oils from the deer velvet, it will make the environment more of a potential breeding ground for bacteria.

Bring rope. Many hunters grab along the base of the antlers to drag a buck after a successful harvest. Grabbing and pulling will puncture the velvet on all the little knobs around the base that give antlers their character. Instead, if you need to move the entire deer, use a rope to wrap around the deer’s neck and base of the skull to drag it with instead of using your hands.

Do Not Rub. Any kind of abrasion will ruin velvet, especially dragging. Continue to avoid all contact with anything that’s potentially abrasive, including your backpack straps when hiking out of backcountry. Instead, strap the skull to your pack, not the antlers themselves.

Wrap it. If for some reason you can’t cape your buck, gently wrap the antlers with your base layer or another piece of spandex material. Wrap them tight and tape down the material with electrical tape. Wrapping before strapping down reduces potential friction. Now you can carry your antlers with straps if needed.

Cushion your buck for the drive. If your hunt is closer to home, you don’t need to follow quite as many steps. Get your deer to your truck using a wheeler or a cart instead of dragging it by the horns. Then secure the head so the antlers don’t come in contact with any surfaces.

Don’t have straps? Put something soft, like a jacket, pillow or sleeping bag, underneath the antlers. This prevents the velvet rubbing off when you rattle down the road or your buddies check out your buck.

Cool and cover. Heat and blood speed the decomposition process. Keep your buck as cool as possible. A shade tree is ideal. Cover the antlers to keep the flies off, but never use a plastic garbage bag. The plastic will turn your velvet into a ruined, smelly mess. Instead, cover the antlers with a deer meat bag to allow for air circulation without any spoilage.

Don’t hang. Antlers in velvet are full of blood that needs to be drained out if you’ll be staying any length of time in the backcountry. Some say to hang the buck upside down by the skull and make pinholes with your knife at the tip of each tine. Blood should then drain out the tips. However, I don’t recommend this method because those small cuts split open the living tissue and are likely to crack when they dry, leaving extra work for your taxidermist to try to repair.

Drain without making a mark. The better drainage method is to get the hide off the skull of the deer by caping it. This process will sever the blood vessels that run outside of the skull between the antlers and the velvet, effectively draining the antlers themselves.

Resist cutting the cape too short; you’ll need from the middle rib forward. Your taxidermist can always cut off what isn’t needed, but can’t make a substantial cape appear from nothing. Then prop the antlers against a tree, base down. The blood will simply drain out of the bottom of the antlers without leaving any marks.

Leave chemicals to the experts. You can get embalming fluid from your taxidermist before your hunt, but in a backcountry situation the last thing you need to worry about is dealing with this highly potent chemical. Embalming fluid is extremely dangerous and requires you to wear double latex gloves and eye protection when using it.

The fluid also demands a syringe and needle to inject the antlers properly. Remember: embalming fluid preserves whatever it touches, so if it gets on your skin, seek emergency medical attention. Not to sound too dramatic, but if embalming fluid gets in your eye, and you’re out of easy ambulance/EMS range, you will most likely lose it.

Be quick. Velvet starts to decompose right from the moment of harvest. Get those antlers and cape to a taxidermist today. Not tomorrow. The quicker your taxidermist can inject your velvet with embalming fluid, the better. This fluid bonds the proteins together and stops decomposition in its tracks. Now your velvet will last for years, no matter how you mount your trophy.

Take care with velvet antlers and you’ll have a beautiful trophy as a way to remember that great hunt. Taxidermists can fix small blemishes with an airbrush and epoxy, but they can only make a deer look as good as when it came in the shop, not better.

A finished velvet buck is an impressive sight. Be sure to take extra care in the field to protect the velvet so you can give the taxidermist a chance to make a breathtaking mount.

Importance of Choosing the Right Stock

When it comes to shotguns, the stock is more than just a piece of wood or synthetic material that rests against your shoulder. It’s a critical component that influences the balance, handling, and overall performance of your firearm. Selecting the right stock for your shotgun can greatly enhance your shooting experience, whether in hunting, sport shooting, or tactical scenarios.

• Balance: A well-chosen stock helps maintain the shotgun’s center of gravity.
• Handling: The stock shape affects how the shooter grips and maneuvers the gun.
• Performance: Comfort and fit can impact shooting accuracy and fatigue.

Overview of Different Stock Types

Shotgun stocks come in a variety of shapes and materials, each with its own purpose and advantage. Understanding the differences is key to making an informed decision. Below are some common types of shotgun stocks:

1. Traditional Wood Stocks
2. Synthetic Stocks
3. Adjustable Stocks
4. Collapsible/Folding Stocks
5. Pistol Grip Stocks
6. Thumbhole Stocks
7. Stocks for Youth and Women
8. Recoil-Reducing Stocks
9. Custom Stocks
10. Tactical and Specialist Stocks

Basic Anatomy of a Shotgun Stock

Components of a Shotgun Stock

A shotgun’s stock is composed of several parts, each serving a function that contributes to the weapon’s ergonomics and aesthetics. Here are the primary components:

• Butt: The rear end that sits against the shooter’s shoulder.
• Comb: The top part where the cheek rests.
• Grip: The part where the trigger hand holds the stock.
• Fore-end: The section below the barrel that the non-trigger hand supports.

How Stocks Affect Shotgun Performance

The design of a shotgun stock impacts the shooter’s comfort and the shotgun’s behavior during firing. An ergonomically sound stock can improve accuracy by offering better control and stability. Various stock shapes and lengths of pull (distance from the trigger to the end of the stock) cater to shooters’ diverse needs and preferences, impacting factors such as:

• Recoil management: Some stocks are designed to absorb shock better.
• Sight alignment: The stock’s height and angle can affect how the shooter aligns with the shotgun’s sights.

Factors to Consider When Choosing a Shotgun Stock

Shooting Discipline and Application

The intended use of your shotgun plays a significant role in determining the type of stock that’s most suitable for you. For example, a trap shooter might prefer a stock with an adjustable comb, while a tactical operator could opt for a stock with a pistol grip for better control.

Shooting Disciplines:

• Hunting
• Trap/Skeet Shooting
• Tactical/Law Enforcement

Body Type and Ergonomics

Shotgun stocks should complement the shooter’s stature to prevent strain and improve performance. The right stock should feel natural in your hands and against your shoulder. It’s essential to consider features like the length of pull, drop at comb, and overall weight when selecting a stock.

Ergonomic Considerations:

• Length of Pull
• Drop at Heel and Comb
• Grip Size and Shape

Material and Durability

Stocks are manufactured from various materials, each with its advantages and limitations in durability and field performance. It’s important to choose a stock material that can withstand environmental conditions and the rigors of use.

Common Stock Materials:

• Wood (Walnut, Maple, Laminate, etc.)
• Synthetic (Fiberglass, Polymer, Carbon Fiber, etc.)

Traditional Wood Shotgun Stocks

Aesthetic Appeal and Classic Feel

Many shotgun enthusiasts prefer wood stocks for their natural feel and traditional appearance. A well-crafted wood stock not only looks impressive but can also provide a warm and comfortable grip during colder weather.

• Visual Attractiveness: Each wood stock has a unique grain pattern.
• Sensory Experience: Wood provides a tactile warmth not found in synthetic materials.

Wood Types and Characteristics

Different woods offer various properties that affect the stock’s performance and longevity. Walnut is a popular choice due to its balance between weight, durability, and attractiveness. Other options include maple and laminate, which provide distinct advantages.

Wood Stock Options:

• Walnut: Durable, with a rich finish.
• Maple: Heavier, often with a striking grain.
• Laminate: Layers of wood for added strength and unique color patterns.

Maintenance and Care for Wood Stocks

To preserve the beauty and function of a wood stock, it’s vital to perform regular maintenance. Exposure to moisture and temperature changes can affect the wood, so proper care is crucial.

Wood Stock Maintenance Tips:

• Use a quality stock finish to protect against moisture.
• Store the shotgun in a controlled environment to prevent warping.
• Regularly clean and oil the wood to maintain its luster.

Synthetic Shotgun Stocks

Benefits of Synthetic Materials

Synthetic stocks, made from polymers or fiberglass, are gaining popularity due to their resistance to environmental wear and reduced maintenance compared to wood. They are an excellent option for shooters who frequently hunt or operate in harsh conditions.

• Durability: Synthetic stocks can resist impacts, scratches, and weather.
• Low Maintenance: Less susceptible to moisture and temperature fluctuations.

Varieties of Synthetic Stocks

Synthetics come in diverse forms, each designed to enhance the shooter’s experience and meet specific requirements. High-tech materials like carbon fiber offer strength with reduced weight, while other polymers provide affordability and ruggedness.

Types of Synthetic Stocks:

• Polymer: Cost-effective and durable.
• Fiberglass: Rigid and stable.
• Carbon Fiber: Lightweight with high strength.

Weather Resistance and Durability

One of the main advantages of synthetic stocks is their ability to endure extreme weather conditions, from the dampness of marshlands to the dry heat of deserts, without significant wear.

Benefits of Synthetic Stock Weather Resistance:

• Consistency: Performs reliably in a range of temperatures.
• Longevity: Maintains structural integrity over time and use.

Adjustable Shotgun Stocks

Advantages of Adjustability

Whether you’re a competitive shooter looking to fine-tune your fit or a recreational shooter who wants a stock to accommodate different clothing and situations, adjustable stocks can be invaluable. They provide a personalized fit that can enhance performance and comfort.

Adjustable Stock Features:

• Adjustable Comb: Aligns eye with the sights.
• Adjustable Length of Pull: Fits a variety of arm lengths.
• Adjustable Butt Pad: Alters recoil impact angle.

Types of Adjustment Features

Modern adjustable stocks come with several features tailored to improve the shooting experience. Each adjustment can make a significant difference in the shooter’s accuracy and comfort.

Common Adjustments:

• Comb height and lateral position.
• Length of pull adjustments using spacers or mechanical systems.
• Adjustable recoil pads and cheek risers.

Target Shooters and Tactical Use

For target shooters, an adjustable stock allows for consistent cheek weld and eye alignment with the sights for every shot. In tactical environments, adjustability can aid in quickly adapting to body armor or various shooting positions.

Target Shooting:

• Fine-tuning for precision shots.
• Consistency between multiple shots.

Tactical Use:

• Adaptability for different gears and scenarios.
• Rapid adjustments to meet operational demands.

Collapsible or Folding Shotgun Stocks

Compactness and Portability

Collapsible and folding stocks are designed for shooters who need their shotguns to be as portable and discreet as possible. They’re commonly used in home defense scenarios or situations where storage space is at a premium.

• Collapsible Stocks: Can be telescoped in for a shorter overall length.
• Folding Stocks: The stock hinge allows it to fold alongside the receiver.

Legal Considerations and Restrictions

Before choosing a collapsible or folding stock, be aware of local and federal regulations regarding shotgun configurations, as these can vary considerably. Compliance with the law is crucial to avoid potential consequences.

Legal Aspects to Consider:

• Overall length requirements.
• Restrictions on collapsible or folding stock features.

Tactical and Home Defense Applications

Shotguns with collapsible or folding stocks are often favored for tactical operations and home defense, where maneuverability is essential, and the ability to quickly stow away the firearm is beneficial.

Tactical and Home Defense Considerations:

• Ease of transport and storage.
• Quick deployment in confined spaces.

Pistol Grip Shotgun Stocks

Pistol Grip Only vs. Pistol Grip with Shoulder Stock

Shotgun pistol grips come in two primary styles: pistol grip only and pistol grip with a traditional shoulder stock. The former offers maximum compactness, while the latter provides better stability and accuracy by allowing the shooter to shoulder the firearm.

Pistol Grip Styles:

• Pistol Grip Only: For breaching and extremely close-quarters use.
• Full Stock with Pistol Grip: Enhanced control with traditional shouldering.

Control and Maneuverability Aspects

A pistol grip helps in handling the shotgun, making it easier to operate and aim, especially in high-stress scenarios. It allows for a strong wrist position and potentially quicker target acquisition.

Control Advantages:

• Strong and ergonomic grip.
• Improved handling during dynamic movements.

Hunting versus Tactical Usage

Hunters may find traditional stocks more advantageous for the steady aim required in their discipline, while individuals interested in home defense or tactical applications might lean toward a shotgun with a pistol grip for its better control in compact spaces.

Usage Considerations:

• Hunting: Traditional stocks are often preferred for stability.
• Tactical: Pistol grips favored for maneuverability.

Thumbhole Shotgun Stocks

Design and Ergonomics

Thumbhole stocks integrate the grip and the butt into a single streamlined unit, allowing shooters to lock their hand in place more securely. This design can offer improved grip stability and ergonomics, which is beneficial for precision shooting.

Ergonomic Benefits:

• Enhanced control during the aiming and firing process.
• Reduced strain on the shooter’s wrist and forearm.

Benefits for Precision Shooting

Precision shooters, such as those engaging in sporting clays or hunting at longer distances, may prefer thumbhole stocks for the increased stability and support they provide. The design aids in maintaining consistency between shots.

Precision Shooting Advantages:

• Consistent hand placement for repeatable accuracy.
• Better rifle-like control for slug shooting.

Hunting and Sport Shooting Preferences

While thumbhole stocks are becoming increasingly popular in hunting and sport shooting circles, it’s essential to choose one that feels comfortable and does not impede the natural movement needed for these activities.

Sporting Preferences:

• Stability for long-range hunting shots.
• Comfort for extended periods at the range.

Youth and Women-Specific Shotgun Stocks

Importance of Proper Fit

Proper stock fit is crucial for all shooters, but it’s particularly vital for women and youth, who may find standard stocks too long or heavy. A well-fitted stock can make a significant difference in handling comfort and shot accuracy.

Benefits of Proper Fit:

• Enhanced control and ease of use.
• Increased confidence and shooting pleasure for younger or smaller shooters.

Reduced Length of Pull and other Adjustments

Shotgun stocks designed for women and youth often feature a reduced length of pull and other adjustments to cater to smaller frames. Recoil pads designed for lighter shooters can also help manage felt recoil.

Adjustments Specific to Youth and Women:

• Shorter length of pull.
• Smaller grip circumference.
• Lighter overall weight.

Stock Options for Smaller Statures

Recognizing the diverse needs of shooters, manufacturers are offering more youth and women-specific stock options, ensuring comfortable and effective shotgun operation for everyone.

Options Available:

• Compact models of popular shotguns.
• Aftermarket stocks with adjustment possibilities.

Recoil-Reducing Shotgun Stocks

Technology and Features for Recoil Absorption

Recoil-reducing gun stocks incorporate technology and design features that dissipate the energy generated when a shotgun is fired. Hydraulic systems, spring mechanisms, and specialized recoil pads are some of the features used to reduce felt recoil.

Recoil Reduction Features:

• Springs or hydraulic cylinders.
• Sorbothane or gel recoil pads.
• Counterweights and dampening systems.

Importance for Shooter Comfort and Follow-Up Shots

Minimizing recoil is not only about comfort; it can also lead to more accurate follow-up shots and reduced shooter fatigue during extended shooting sessions, such as in waterfowl hunting or competitive shooting events.

Shooter Comfort Advantages:

• Less shoulder and cheek slap.
• Ability to maintain focus and aim for longer periods.

Considerations for High-Volume Shooters

Shooters who spend a lot of time at the range or in the field shooting large volumes of ammunition should consider investing in a recoil-reducing stock to help mitigate long-term shoulder wear and fatigue.

Considerations for High-Volume Shooting:

• Preserving shoulder health.
• Extending shooting sessions without discomfort.

Custom Shotgun Stocks

Tailor-Made for Individual Needs

Custom stocks are crafted to fit an individual shooter’s specific physique and preferences. A custom fitting session with a stock maker can result in a shotgun stock that feels like an extension of the shooter’s body, potentially improving every aspect of shotgun handling.

Custom Fitting Benefits:

• Precise adjustments to suit body measurements.
• Craftsmanship that matches personal style and comfort requirements.

Process of Custom Stock Fitting

The custom stock fitting process often involves measuring a shooter’s dimensions and shooting stance. A stock maker then uses these measurements to craft a stock tailored for optimum fit and performance.

Custom Stock Fitting Steps:

• Detailed measurement of the shooter’s physique.
• Consideration of shooting style and discipline.
• Creation of a stock that satisfies functional and aesthetic demands.

Costs and Benefits of Customization

While custom shotgun stocks can be a significant investment, many shooters find that the benefits in comfort, performance, and enjoyment are well worth the expense.

Custom Stock Considerations:

• Higher cost compared to off-the-shelf stocks.
• Long-term value in improved shooting results and satisfaction.

Tactical and Specialist Shotgun Stocks

Specialized Stocks for Law Enforcement and Military

Tactical and specialist shotgun stocks are designed to meet the stringent requirements of law enforcement and military operations. Features such as adjustability, rugged construction, and additional accessory mounting options are commonplace.

Key Features for Tactical Stocks:

• Robustness to withstand rough handling.
• Modular designs for attaching lights, lasers, and slings.

Conclusion

Tactical stocks often feature design elements that facilitate rapid deployment and manipulation under stress. Materials used in these stocks are typically chosen for their durability and functionality in adverse conditions.

Elements of Tactical Stock Design:

• Non-slip surfaces for secure grip in all conditions.
• Ergonomic shape to accommodate rapid movement and positioning.

By GunSpot

There is nothing more frustrating that having a really great gun on hand and no way to shoot it. That’s been the case for us with the Model 2020 Waypoint rifle we’ve been using (see GunSpot’s pieces on taking the Waypoint out on a hunt and also running the rifle through the NRL Hunter Match), as it has been very difficult to acquire ammo — something we know all of you are facing as well.

Recently, we were fortunate to be able to acquire some Deer Season XP 125-gr. 6.5 Creedmoor rounds from Winchester Ammunition, and could not wait to get it and the Waypoint rifle out to the range. We wanted to know if this was a legitimate long-range hunting round.

Fuel for the Fire

The Deer Season XP loading has been specifically designed for deer hunting, to take down an animal as quickly and humanely as possible. The loading is offered in a variety of chamberings, ranging from .223 to .30-06 to 7mm Magnum. Bullet weights range anywhere from 64 to 250 grains.

The projectile itself features an “Extreme Point” with an oversized impact diameter. The means more energy transfers to the target which is better for taking down deer. The round has a large diameter polymer tip as well as a tapered jacket for the flat-based projectile.

In 6.5 Creedmoor as tested, it has a muzzle velocity of 2,850 feet per second, while the energy is 2,254 ft-lbs. When we went out and shot our first groups at 100 yards, we hooked a Magnetospeeed to our rifle and only had a 7.4 feet per second standard deviation, which is very, very impressive.

Palpable Performance

This round is clearly built to deliver energy on target and put down an animal, but the real question is, how does it fly? Is it accurate? We started zeroing our Model 2020 Waypoint with this bullet and we ended up with a very tight group at 100 yards. Was it as tight as match ammo would produce? No, but it’s still a very accurate round. And remember, this is a round designed to take down an animal first and foremost.

But how accurate is it? To really wring it out, we decided to test it out over some long-range distances. Frankly, most hunters on average probably never shoot farther than maybe 250 yards on a deer. You can shoot farther for sure, but I’d imagine most hunters in the country don’t feel confident past 300 yards. So, we figured this round has probably never been tested by reviewers at 1,000 yards. We decided to give it a shot.

Now, we did have some doubts about this bullet and the reason being that it has a flat base. Flat-based bullets will deliver plenty of impact, but they don’t fly as well as boat-tailed bullets. As a result, we went in with relatively low expectations, expectations that were soon proven wrong.

After we got the rifle zeroed, we first decided to try a target at 405 yards. Grant hit this with no problem. Then we moved on and hit targets at 617, 760 and 1082 yards. Once we moved on from the 1082 yard mark, we noticed the bullet was harder to predict.

For a flat-based hunting round to be accurate out to nearly 1,100 yards is no small feat. We were pleasantly surprised by how well this round performed at distance. Grant felt comfortable enough that as long as the shot was well-placed, he could definitely hit a deer-sized target consistently at 600 yards and put it down.

Conclusion

All in all, we were excited to get the chance to test some ammunition during this ammo crisis. The 6.5 Creedmoor Deer Season XP is an awesome cartridge that any hunter would be lucky to use. And now we know as long as the hunter is skilled enough for the shot, it could be used to take down deer effectively out to 600 yards. Is it the best long-range hunting round? We hope to find out this fall!

Just remember to get out and practice shooting long distance as much as you can. Even though the round is capable, you might not be. It is unethical to take a shot at an animal that you are not confident in. So, practice, shoot smart and be a good steward of conservation. And pick up some of this ammo as we can assure you it will do its part!

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Whether I’m grinding wild game from the hunt, or a whole cow from my local farmer, meat grinder plates allow me to take control and customize your grinds.

Meat grinder plates are circular discs with holes across them, and the texture of the grind depends on size of the holes in the plate.

Depending on what item you’re grinding the meat for, you will need one or more plates to achieve the right texture.

For example, if I’m grinding meat for summer sausages, I use a 2 ½” grinder plate, but I need both 1/4″ & 5/16″ grinder plates to grind meat to make fresh burgers.

What is the Usage of Meat Grinder Plates?

Whether you’re using a manual or electric meat grinder, you will need to load the machine with appropriate grinder plates to produce the final texture.

When you load the food tray of your meat grinder, it is pushed down through the feeding tube, and through the blade, which cuts down the meat.

If you don’t install meat grinder plates, then the grinding results will be thick and not consistent.

After the meat is processed by the blade, it goes through the holes of the grinder plates to give the ground meat coarse or fine texture.

The main and only job of the blade of a meat grinder is to mince the meat, so that it can smoothly go through the grinder plate holes.

Complete Meat Grinder Plate Size Chart

You can use the chart below to find the right meat grinder plate size for your needs.

Grinder Size Number Plate Diameter Hole Diameter Type of Grind Ideal for Grinding Meat for #5 2-1/8″ 6mm (1/4″) Coarse Sausages such as summer, salami, pepperoni and snack sticks #8 2-3/8″ 10mm (3/8″) Coarse / first grind Chili, chorizo and linguisa #8 2-3/8″ 4.5mm (3/16″) Coarse / second grind Hamburger. Regular sausages # 10/12 2-3/4″ 10mm (3/8″) Coarse / first grind Chili, chorizo and linguisa # 20/22 3-1/4″ 4.5mm (3/16″) Coarse / second grind Hamburger. Regular sausages # 20/22 3-1/4″ 3mm (1/8″) Fine Hamburger, bologna, hot dogs # 20/22 3-1/4″ 12mm (1/2″) Coarse / first grind Chili and stewed meats # 20/22 3-1/4″ 10mm (3/8″) Coarse / first grind Chili, chorizo and linguisa # 20/22 3-1/4″ 6mm (1/4″) Coarse Sausages such as summer, salami, pepperoni and snack sticks # 32 3-7/8″ 3mm (1/8″) Fine Hamburger, bologna, hot dogs and jerky #42 5 1/16″ 4mm Commercial use / coarse Hamburger, salami, summer sausage, pepperoni and bratwurst

What Meat Grinder Plate Sizes Should You Typically Have?

This completely depends on what you will making with the ground meat. If you’re going to be making franks, hamburgers, bologna and beef jerky, 1/8″ or 3/32″ fine grinder plates should be in your arsenal.

You can even make hamburgers and breakfast sausages with 3/16″ or 5/32″ hole size medium grind plates.

For coarse ground meat, that is to make items such as salami, chorizo, bratwurst, sausage, etc., you will need a grinder plate with a bigger hole size such as 1/4″, 5/16″, and 3/8″.

How do I Know What Size Meat Grinder I Have?

The numbers on your meat grinder refer to the size of the grinding head. Depending on the manufacturer, you can find the size of your meat grinder emblazoned on the appliance itself or in the owner’s manual.

In case you cannot find any size number on your grinder plate then just take a measuring tape and measure the diameter of the round plate and also use the same method to measure the diameter of one of the holes. Now use this information to lookup the plat size from the meat grinder plate size chart above.

The most common sizes of meat grinders for home use are #5, 8, 12, 22, and 32, whereas #20, #22, #32, #42 and #52 size meat grinders are mostly used in commercial settings.

Smaller size meat grinders come with smaller feeding tubes, and larger feeding tubes with large size grinders.

If you’re only grinding meat for burgers and sausages, then a smaller size meat grinder will do the job, but if you’re looking to grind wild game several times a year, then you should opt for a larger size meat grinder.

What is the Grinder Plate Size for Sausage?

This depends on the texture of sausages you’re making such as whether you like them with a fine or chewy texture. If you’re grinding meat for bratwurst sausages or summer sausages, you will need coarsely ground meat with a 2 3/4 inches grinder plate.

For chorizo, you will again coarsely grind meat, but this time with a 3 1/4 inches size grinding plate.

But if you’re grinding meat for breakfast sausages, Polish or Italian sausages, you should use a 3/16″ coarse grinding plate and also check out my previous article which covers meat grinder plate sizes for various sausages in detail.

How to Sharpen Meat Grinder Plate?

The grinder plates of a meat tend to get worn out after a period of use, hence need to be sharpened. If you grind with dull plates, great chances are that you won’t get the best texture and consistency from the respective plate.

The best and easiest way to sharpen your meat grinder plates and even knife is with the Sausage Maker sharpening system.

1. Soak the stones in the sharpening system in water for roughly five minutes. You have to be very gentle with them because they can get damaged easily.
2. There are two plates in the pack—one with the square hole is for the knife, and the round hole stone for the grinder plate.
3. If you just want to sharpen the grinder plate, place the stone into the grinder head of the meat grinder first, and then place dull grinder plate over it, and secure them both with the retaining ring, but not too tight.
4. Power on the meat grinder for only five seconds or so, and voila—the grinder is plate is back to new.
5. Now repeat this process for the other side of the grinder plate to ensure both sides are sharpened.

There are other ways to sharpening grinder plates as well such as with a sharpening stone, but these will require a fair bit of elbow grease, so it’s better to do the job effortlessly with the Sausage Make sharpening system.