Coyotes are medium-sized wild canids that could be traceable throughout the North American continent. These wild animals are known for their many features like size, body shape, color, and general behavior. You may confuse the coyote with wolves or dogs from some distance due to their similar standard appearance. However, there are a lot of differences in terms of their features and physical capabilities.
Some of these specific standard features are a long snout, pointed ears, a bushy tail, and noticeable coat color. When it comes to size, coyotes are bigger than foxes and dogs but smaller than wolves. In this article, we are going to discuss in detail coyote coloration or the color of coyotes.
As we have mentioned before, coyotes exist throughout the different regions of North America. When it comes to coyote color variations, it also varies from one region to another. Generally, these animals are a mixture of many colors. It could be gray, light gray, red, peppered black, or white color. The inside color of the chin, chest, and belly is always white for coyotes of any region. You will also notice a spreading red color on the top of their nose. The color of the coyote has a lot of significance. Most importantly, it helps in the identification of coyotes from other wild animals.
Coyote fur colors
Coyote comes with fluffy fur which makes them larger than their usual weight and size. The fur of the coyote is highly helpful in keeping it safe from harsh weather. The fur is quite thick and long which makes the coyote appear larger than their actual body size. The fur color of the coyote varies from gray to reddish brown. You may also see the fully black fur coat of a coyote.
You may also notice more reddish or tawny tint color shade on the legs, face, and ears of a coyote. Moreover, coyotes also have very long guard hairs which are usually dark in color. By having a look at these varieties of colors, you can easily conclude that coyote is quite good at camouflaging themselves.
Coyote Color Variations: what color are coyotes?
Here we are going to enlist all the colors which the coyote can adopt. Coyote doesn’t have a single color. Most of the time, it comes in a variety of colors. Coyotes are actually the amalgamation of these colors. Some of the most prominent colors of the coyote are given as:
Gray
Brown
Tan
Red
Blonde
White
Black
Salt and pepper
Most of the time you will see the coyote only in these colors sometimes a combination of one or two of these colors. Sometimes the genetic mutation also happens in the coyote due to Melanism. This process generates a fully dark or black-colored coyote. You may also notice the happening of Albinism phenomenon in the coyote. It also leaves an impact in the form of any other color on the coyote.
Regional colors of the coyote
The color of the coyote also varies from one region to another. Let’s have a look at the colors of the coyote from different regions of the North American continent.
Eastern side coyote
Eastern coyotes are hybrid-type subspecies of the coyote. They take colors as well as other properties from both wolves and coyotes. These coyotes actually take more features from wolves. The size of this kind of coyote is also slightly larger than a normal coyote.
Eastern coyote comes with a combination of many colors. The most prominent colors of the eastern coyotes are gray, red, brown, tan, and blonde. You may also notice some rusty colors on these hybrid coyotes.
There are also multiple color phases of eastern coyotes during different times of the year. These are very rare colors of coyotes you can find on the field. You should consider yourself lucky if you witness these coyotes in the wilderness. Generally, you will find these wild animals in the east coastal areas or mid-west areas.
The eastern coyote has also been named as tweed wolf and normally exists in the northeastern parts of the USA and Canada. The eastern coyote comes with a fully white underbelly with a white chin and throat. There are also washes of black on their overall coat. Typically, these wild canid animals have very coarse fur which let them easily endure harsh winter weather.
Western side coyote
These coyotes originated from the western side of North America and gradually migrated towards all the corners of the continent. You can easily witness these coyotes in the western and southern regions of the USA, Canada, and Mexico. These animals come in reddish, tan, dark brown, blonde, orange, and gray colors. Western coyotes have a fully white belly with a slightly tan color combination. They have bushy tails along with black fur at the tip end. These coyotes do have not much heavier fur as compared to the eastern side coyote. It also makes them slightly smaller in size. Eastern coyotes also have longer legs as compared to Western coyotes.
Brown color coyotes
Many coyotes exhibit brown or dark brown colors including the eastern coyote. Eastern coyotes have different phases of colors like brown, dark brown, red, and blonde. You may not normally see brown color coyotes as the usual color of the coyote is tan, gray, and red. However, still, the brown color coyotes have a reasonable presence in North America.
Michigan coyotes
Coyotes in Michigan typically have the same color coat as you can see normally in the coyote. They are gray and red in color with a mixture of white. You may also some salt and pepper-colored coyotes in Michigan. However, a very rapid change is happening in the color of Michigan coyotes due to the movement of eastern coyotes in the mid-west areas. In these coyotes, there is more dominance of brown, dark, and tan colors. They have also been changing colors at different times of the year.
Black color coyote
Coyotes could also be black in color. This usually happens due to genetic mutation and the process is called Melanism. You may also find this kind of mutation in many other animals like badgers, bobcats, foxes, etc. However, it very rarely happens in the case of coyotes as compared to other animals like foxes who are almost 25% victims of the Melanism phenomenon. It is a very rare phenomenon and could happen to any coyote in the world.
A rare black coyote recorded by the trail cam.
Rare coyote colors
Most of the coyotes you will see in the normal colors but some of them also exhibit some unique or rare colors. It usually happens due to various reasons. Most importantly, it happens due to seasonal changes. For instance, they lose most of their heavy fur at the beginning of the summer season and expose their guard hairs.
In this way, you can easily see the inside color of the coyote. The color mutation also happens due to some other factors like Melanism and Albinism. Sometimes they are completely melanin and exhibit fully dark color and sometimes they are partially melanistic coyotes having some botches of black fur.
Do coyote coats change colors?
Yes, coyote changes the colors of their coat. Generally, they change the color of their coat on the basis of different seasons. There will be a complete change in their appearance in the winter as well as the summer season. Coyotes may look quite bulkier in the winter season as compared to the summer season as they have to face very harsh and cold weather in the winter season.
The coyote summer coat will be very thin and usually come with a mixture of red and gray colors. In the winter season, the coyote coat will be quite large, long, and heavy. They appear much larger than their original size. Coyote also changes the color of their coat due to various other reasons. For instance, the eastern coyotes exhibit four different colors throughout the whole year.
Coyote eye color
Many people are curious about the color of the coyote eye. Generally, they have yellow eyes with brown irises. Initially, at the time of birth, they have blue eyes and gradually transform colors. You will experience the change of color gradually as they grow older. Scientists have also exposed that the blue eyes coyotes have actually descended from the single blue-eyed coyote having mutant genes which causes the blue color in the eyes.
Frequently asked questions
Conclusion
People occasionally ask this question what color are coyotes? We have answered it in a very comprehensive to clear all your confusion about the color of coyotes. Coyotes exhibit many colors under different circumstances. We have explained in detail and clearly all the other aspects of these colors. By thoroughly reading this article, there will be no confusion left in your mind about the color of a coyote.
Welcome! Please view, share, and enjoy the copyrighted, complete solution to the Fenn quest. Visual independent proof (“VIP”) exists in three different forms, while the site determined by the poem is here.
The readiest proof is found here or in the image shown on this page, which is the quest solution. The image combines an overlay of the illustration by Polt found in the epilogue of The Thrill of the Chase: A Memoir by Fenn, published in January 2010, onto an outdoor photo of the site I took in August 2018. That match proves that Fenn, who commissioned the illustration, was at the site of the photo while creating the quest.
In that book, where “EPILOGUE” heads the last chapter title page, the letters “LOG” are centered above the illustration. The Greek root of “epilogue” is “ἐπί” or “epi” meaning “above.” In often referencing “under a log” or “turning over a log” while searching, Fenn refers to this image, not to the natural remains of a tree. The key image under, or labeled by, the letters “LOG,” when overlaid onto the correct photo and faded, proves the correct site, again underneath.
More independent proof is found here in the clear connections between the site and the Colorado state seal. The three VIPs often interconnect. For example, the fasces in the state seal matches the “ax in the wood” portion of the overlay image, while the Fenn directive to “turn over a log” matches the key 1794 Battle of Fallen Timbers, fought near Toledo.
Details are found in the full solution.
Only the correct site and its surroundings were visited in the context of the quest. Identifying the area was straightforward. The difficulty lay first in narrowing down the site, which took about one year, then in perceiving that the quest is not a scavenger hunt for treasure but rather a test of grit: of character, disentitlement, productivity, and resilience in adversity, culminating in independent proof. Creating at least one form of independent proof took over two years, and creating others took almost three.
The rugged site, dominated by willows, is of limited extent, about 1 acre (0.4 ha), yet multiple, thorough searches yielded nothing. Anyone is welcome to explore and search the site. Outdoor safety precautions in all particulars must be taken as the site is at 9,000 feet (2,743 m) of altitude and is accessed only by wading a river.
The solution is publicly revealed. To be clear, the quest is solved, the answer to the puzzle is independently proved, and treasure is absent at the site.
Three forms of VIP would not be needed if treasure, proof enough, were present. The status of treasure is unknown. In my opinion, a real treasure exists, and Fenn securely retains it to award as he sees fit — which is also common sense: the poem ends, “I give you title to the gold.” Many “treasure searchers” might misunderstand the quest, setting the wrong success standard and guaranteeing failure by insisting on finding and retrieving a literal treasure, when the “treasure in the woods” is figurative or metaphorical. A metaphorical test of grit solved by creativity and reference to history, literature, and images is consistent with the personal profile of a combat pilot turned artist and best-selling author. Literally abandoning treasure in the woods, a foolish act inconsistent with a brilliant man, also would deprive Fenn of control over the quest.
Many thanks to Fenn, Polt, family, friends, and public safety authorities. Fenn is a man of service, creativity, and intellect, whom I respect and admire. I am humbled to have solved his amazing quest and would be privileged to meet him in person. We have never mutually corresponded. My name and contact are found atop this page and at the bottom of the cover page of the solution document.
“If I cannot move heaven, I will raise hell.” – Virgil, The Aeneid of Virgil, Book Seven, Line 312
As a camping enthusiast and engineer, I can tell you that upgrading your RV batteries to lithium is one of the best decisions you can make. Lithium batteries for RV are better than lead acid batteries in so many ways that once you decide to make the switch, you would be asking yourself why you didn’t do it before!
In this guide, I will go through the best lithium batteries for RV that you can buy right now!
Now, let’s get straight to the best RV lithium batteries! Then I will also explain the different types of lithium batteries available and why the LFP (LiFePO4) is the most popular choice for RVers.
Here are the best lithium-ion batteries for RV available to purchase right now:
1. Battle Born LiFePO4 Deep Cycle Batteries
BEST OVERALL
Looking for the best lithium batteries upgrade for your RV? Look no further than the Battle Born Batteries LiFePO4 Deep Cycle Battery!
With this sleek lithium-ion battery, you’ll have the ultimate power solution that’s designed to last and packed with features that make it the top choice for all your off-grid needs.
Equipped with a built-in Battery Management System (BMS), this battery provides the best protection against common battery issues. It also offers superior charge and discharge capabilities, outpacing other batteries on the market.
And weighing just 29 lbs, it’s a lightweight option that can be securely mounted in any position.
When it comes to lithium batteries and off-grid applications, Battle Born Batteries LiFePO4 Deep Cycle Batteries are simply the best choice!
Don’t just take my word for it, check out the rave reviews! RVers, boaters, overlanders, and van lifers all praise the cost-effectiveness and long-lasting performance of this battery compared to their old and heavy lead-acid batteries.
Customers love the eco-friendly aspect of being able to repeatedly charge and discharge this battery, as well as the reliable battery management system that ensures safety. And the best part? All of this power and peace of mind comes at a fair price.
Renowned by experienced RV enthusiasts and sailors alike, these batteries are the preferred choice due to their exceptional quality. Simply put, they are the best lithium batteries you can find for your RV.
Why bother with the hassles of old lead-acid batteries? Upgrade now to the Battle Born Batteries LiFePO4 Deep Cycle Battery and enjoy reliable power every time, allowing you to fully focus on your travels and adventures!
2. LiTime MINI Lithium Battery
BEST Value
Say goodbye to bulky energy sources thanks to the LiTime 12V 100Ah MINI LiFePO4 Lithium Battery. It’s 35% smaller and 10% lighter than previous models, yet it still provides an impressive 1280Wh of energy storage.
This upgraded version makes it the perfect choice for people looking for a highly portable, yet robust and dependable power source for their outdoor adventures. It’s ideal for use on RVs, solar panels, and trolling motors.
Equipped with upgraded BMS (battery management system), this battery delivers top-tier stability and performance you can count on during every cycle. Don’t worry about rough waters or extreme temperatures.
Its IP65 waterproof housing and optimized internal layout provide maximum protection from harsh weather conditions.
Also, with an operating temperature range of -4°F to 140°F, this battery is always ready for your next adventure.
With its 10-year lifespan, this battery is built to last and has an impressive energy cycle. It is the perfect choice for those who are always on the move or those who require a long-lasting power source for their outdoor equipment. Check it out!
3. Power Queen LiFePO4 Battery
Low Temperature Cut-Off
The Power Queen 100Ah lithium iron phosphate battery is designed specifically for RVs and marine use. It utilizes high-quality LiFePO4 cells to deliver an exceptionally long lifespan of up 4000 cycles (10 years).
The built-in 100A BMS helps protect the cells.
Importantly for RVers, the battery weighs just 22 lbs, much lighter than comparable lead-acid models. This significantly eases installation and handling.
The upgraded low-temperature cutoff function stops charging below 32°F to protect the battery in freezing conditions you may encounter when camping in the snow or in cold mountain locations. For this reason, this lithium battery is best if you plan to use your RV in more extreme temperature conditions.
The Power Queen 100Ah LiFePO4 battery is a compelling upgrade option for RVers looking to enhance their RV electrical system. The higher cost may deter some buyers, but the exceptional longevity and performance make this a standout lithium battery choice for RV camping applications.
4. LOSSIGY LiFePO4 Lithium Battery
RVers looking for a good value lithium battery option should consider the Lossigy 12V 200Ah model. With its large capacity and built-in battery management system, it can offer ample power for boondocking and off-grid camping situations.
At under 50 pounds, it’s much easier to install and remove than bulky lead-acid batteries.
User reviews highlight the battery’s strong performance over the first year or two of heavy usage.
While it may not have the premium name brand recognition of some competitors, this battery delivers tremendous value for RV applications at its price point.
The Lossigy battery is well-suited for solar charging, which makes it very convenient for RVs.
Lithium iron phosphate chemistry can handle thousands more recharge cycles than lead-acid, so RV owners can count on years of service with minimal maintenance.
The battery also charges faster than lead-acid, reaching full capacity at lower voltages. This allows modestly sized solar panels to effectively keep it topped off.
Owners do report the need for insulation or battery warmers in freezing conditions. But overall, with proper setup, the Lossigy battery can provide consistent, trouble-free power while off-grid.
For most RV needs, this battery offers huge off-grid power potential at an affordable price point.
5. WEIZE LiFePO4 Lithium Battery
Would you like to upgrade to lithium batteries but you are on a tight budget? Upgrade to the WEIZE LiFePO4 Lithium Battery! It’s one of the most affordable lithium solutions for RV.
It has an outstanding lifespan of 2000 cycles at 100% and 8000 cycles at 50% depth of discharge, making it last at least 4-5 times longer than traditional batteries.
However, this falls short by about 1000 deep cycles compared to our best lithium battery pick.
It features a built-in Battery Management System that protects the battery from overcharging, high and low temperatures, over-discharging, and short-circuiting.
Compared to heavy and bulky lead-acid batteries, the WEIZE battery is lightweight and versatile, making it easy to carry and install.
Use it for a variety of applications, such as fish finders, camping, ice fishing, solar systems, home alarm systems, and e-scooters. Besides, it’s eco-friendly with no hazardous fluids, making it safe to mount in any position without worrying about spillage.
The WEIZE 12V 100AH LiFePO4 Lithium Battery is that it’s maintenance-free. With its long lifespan of over 10 years, you won’t have to bear the hassle and cost of replacing your battery frequently.
People also appreciate its cold weather protection that ensures optimal performance even in frigid temperatures.
With a 10-year warranty, you can rely on the WEIZE battery to power your devices and systems for years to come, without worrying about battery failure or damage.
With this battery you get an extremely cheap lithium RV battery solution, however, some customers were not happy with the build quality and customer service.
Upgrade your power source to the WEIZE 12V 100AH LiFePO4 Lithium Battery and enjoy its many benefits for your RV solar system.
Lithium Batteries For RV: Overview
Lithium batteries are powered by lithium-ion technology, and are an exceptional choice for RV enthusiasts seeking reliable and efficient power solutions.
These rechargeable 12-volt batteries have gained popularity as a superior alternative to lead-acid batteries, especially among RVers who frequently venture off the grid or rely on solar power.
Those lithium batteries provide several advantages over other battery types, making them the preferred choice for many RVers. Here are some key benefits:
Longevity: As mentioned earlier, lithium batteries have a significantly longer lifespan compared to lead-acid batteries. This durability not only saves you money on frequent replacements but also provides peace of mind knowing that your battery will last for extended periods.
Improved Efficiency: Lithium batteries offer higher energy density, allowing them to store and deliver power more efficiently. This increased efficiency translates to better overall performance and longer run times for your RV appliances and systems.
Lightweight and Compact: Lithium batteries are considerably lighter and more compact than lead-acid batteries, resulting in reduced overall vehicle weight. This weight reduction can contribute to improved fuel efficiency and a smoother, more comfortable ride.
Rapid Charging: Lithium batteries have a fast charging capability, allowing you to quickly recharge your battery when connected to a reliable power source. This feature is especially beneficial for RVers who prefer shorter charging times and the flexibility to hit the road sooner.
Deep Discharge Capacity: Lithium batteries can be discharged more deeply without causing damage or compromising their overall performance. This flexibility allows you to make the most of your battery’s energy reserves, providing extended usage during off-grid adventures.
Lithium Battery Types
When exploring lithium batteries for your camper, you’ll discover a range of options to meet your specific power needs. Understanding the available varieties will help you make an informed decision.
Common types of lithium batteries include:
Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePO4): Known for their exceptional safety and long cycle life, LiFePO4 batteries are a popular choice for RVers. They provide reliable power output, resist self-discharge, and have a wide temperature range, making them suitable for various climates. Thanks to their features and performance, those are the most popular batteries for RVs.
Lithium Nickel Cobalt Aluminum Oxide (NCA): NCA batteries offer high energy density and long lifespan. They are lightweight, provide excellent performance, and are often used in electric vehicles due to their ability to deliver high power output.
Lithium Nickel Manganese Cobalt Oxide (NMC): NMC batteries strike a balance between energy density, power output, and lifespan. They are versatile and commonly used in various applications, including RVs, due to their excellent performance and relatively affordable cost.
Lithium Titanate Oxide (Li4Ti5O12): This unique variety provides unbeatable stability and a longer lifespan. Its remarkable fast-charging capabilities and ability to endure numerous charge cycles make it a winner in terms of longevity.
Lithium Polymer (Li-Po): If you prioritize space-saving and lightweight options, then the Li-Po batteries are the way to go. Their slim design and flexible nature make them a great fit for smaller RVs and campers.
Choosing the best lithium battery for your RV
Choosing the right lithium battery depends on several factors, including your power requirements, available space, and budget. Consider the following when selecting a battery:
Power Capacity: Assess your energy needs based on the appliances and systems you plan to power with the battery. Determine the appropriate capacity to ensure sufficient power supply without overloading the battery.
Physical Size: Measure the available space in your RV’s battery compartment to ensure the selected battery fits properly.
Budget: Evaluate the cost of different lithium batteries suitable for RVs while considering their long-term value. Remember that although lithium batteries have a higher upfront cost, their extended lifespan can make them more cost-effective over time.
Manufacturer’s Reputation: Research reputable brands that offer high-quality lithium batteries. Look for customer reviews and testimonials to gauge customer satisfaction and reliability.
Pricing for Lithium Batteries
When it comes to purchasing lithium RV batteries, the cost is often a major consideration for buyers. It’s true that lithium batteries tend to be more expensive upfront compared to traditional lead-acid batteries.
However, it’s important to look beyond the initial price tag and consider the long-term benefits and cost savings that lithium batteries offer.
The Average Price Range for Lithium Batteries
The average price range for lithium batteries suitable for RV can vary depending on the brand, capacity, and other factors. On average, you can expect to pay anywhere from $500 to $2000 for a quality lithium battery for your motorhome.
Of course, there are premium options available that can exceed this price range, but they usually come with additional features and higher capacity.
But why are lithium batteries so expensive? Well, in truth, if you consider the entire lifespan of the batteries, they aren’t more expensive. Read on!
Given the typical price range, it’s not surprising that some RV enthusiasts may feel reluctant to make the leap into purchasing a lithium battery. However, it is important to ponder the extensive advantages and value that lithium batteries bring.
Additionally, lithium batteries provide other advantages such as faster charging times, higher energy density, and a lightweight design. These features can further enhance the value of lithium RV batteries and make them a worthwhile investment for RVers who demand reliable and efficient power storage.
What Factors Influence the Price of Lithium Batteries?
Several factors influence the price of lithium batteries. These factors include battery capacity, brand reputation, and additional features such as built-in battery management systems. Higher capacity batteries and well-known brands tend to come with a higher price tag.
It’s important to consider your specific power needs and the capacity requirements of your RV when determining the price range for lithium batteries. If you only require a lower capacity battery for occasional weekend trips, you can expect to find more budget-friendly options.
On the other hand, if you have higher power demands or require extended periods of off-grid power, investing in a higher capacity lithium battery may be necessary, albeit at a higher cost.
Leading Brands and Producers of Lithium Batteries for RV
When it comes to purchasing a lithium battery, it’s crucial to choose a trustworthy brand that offers reliable and high-quality products. There are several leading brands and producers in the market that have established a reputation for delivering top-notch lithium RV batteries.
Some well-known brands in the industry include Renogy, Battle Born Batteries, Relion, and Lion Energy. These brands have been recognized for their commitment to quality, performance, and customer satisfaction.
By choosing a reputable brand, you can have peace of mind knowing that you are investing in a lithium battery that has undergone rigorous testing and meets the highest industry standards.
However, this doesn’t mean that other brands can’t offer good lithium batteries. For example, in the above lithium RV batteries selection, I mention a few less-known brands. Those can offer viable options for people who are on a budget. Those would still offer better value compared to lead acid batteries in my opinion.
Installing and Maintaining Lithium Batteries on your RV
Installation Best Practices
When it comes to installing lithium batteries on your RV, unless you choose a portable power station or off-grid solar generator, there are a few best practices to keep in mind.
While some experienced RVers with electrical expertise may be comfortable with a DIY installation, it is generally recommended to have the system installed by professionals, especially if you plan to incorporate solar panels, solar controllers, and inverters into the setup.
Installing a lithium battery bank and a battery management system requires technical proficiency to ensure proper wiring connections and system integration.
Improper installation can lead to inefficiencies, safety hazards, and even damage to your RV or the batteries themselves. By working with professionals, you can have peace of mind knowing that your RV lithium battery system is installed correctly and functions optimally.
If you do decide to tackle the installation yourself, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully and double-check all connections.
It’s also a good idea to have a thorough understanding of electrical systems and safety measures. When in doubt, consult with an expert.
Maintaining your Lithium Battery for Optimal Performance and Longer Life
While these batteries are known for their durability, a little maintenance can go a long way in maximizing their lifespan.
First and foremost, it’s important to avoid overcharging or discharging your lithium battery. Most lithium batteries come with a built-in battery management system that helps regulate charging and discharging.
However, it’s still a good idea to monitor your battery’s voltage regularly and avoid extreme levels. If you plan to store your RV for an extended period, make sure to fully charge the battery before doing so.
Additionally, it’s crucial to avoid exposing your lithium battery to extreme temperatures. Extreme heat or cold can negatively impact battery performance and lifespan. If possible, store your RV in a temperature-controlled environment or invest in insulation for your battery compartment.
Regularly inspecting and cleaning your battery terminals is another important maintenance task. Corrosion and dirt on the terminals can hinder the battery’s performance. Clean the terminals using a solution of baking soda and water, and make sure they are tightened securely.
Lastly, it’s essential to follow the manufacturer’s recommended maintenance schedule. This may include periodic equalization charging or other specific procedures. By staying on top of maintenance tasks and following the manufacturer’s guidelines, you can ensure that your lithium battery operates at its best for years to come.
Conclusion
In conclusion, when it comes to powering your recreational vehicle, and maximizing your off-grid adventures, the best lithium RV batteries are the crème de la crème.
These lightweight powerhouses of energy storage not only boast an impressive lifespan, but they also won’t weigh you down like their lead-acid competitors. Say goodbye to lugging around heavy batteries and hello to more freedom and convenience on the road.
No more worries about running out of power when you’re off in the wilderness or relying on a solar-powered setup. With the best lithium batteries for camper, you can rest easy knowing that you have a reliable and efficient energy source right at your fingertips.
So, why settle for less when you can have the best? Invest in the best lithium batteries for RV and experience the advantages firsthand. Your outdoor camping adventures will never be the same again.
If you also own a boat, then you may be interested in getting a battery that can work well in the marine environment. Here are the best lithium marine batteries that you can use on your boat as well as on your campervan!
The simple solution is to consult the list of approved fuels below. However, for a more comprehensive understanding, it is important to consider three essential factors when determining the suitability of a fuel. If you have doubts about whether a fuel is appropriate for use, please refer to these three major criteria below.
The fuels approved for both indoor and outdoor use in Tubular Lanterns and Flat Wick Oil Lamps are as follows:
4. MVP Group International Florasense® Brand Lamp Oil (#MVP73200, 64oz. and #MVP73201, 32 oz., Sold by Wal-Mart ) Flash Point: 142 Degrees Fahrenheit (Purchase only the clear unscented version of this fuel.)
Outdoor Use:
1. Non-Dyed (Clear) Kerosenewith a Flash Point Between 124 and 150 Degrees Fahrenheit
3. Crown® Citronella Torch and Lamp Fuel (#CTLP01, #CTLP02, #CTLP48) (OUTDOOR USE ONLY, cut 50:50 with kerosene to extend wick life.) Flash Point: 141 Degrees Fahrenheit
4. Tiki® Brand Citronella Torch Fuel (OUTDOOR USE ONLY, cut 50:50 with kerosene to extend wick life.) Flash Point: 145 Degrees Fahrenheit
3 Requirements for a Safe Fuel:
Flashpoint,
Viscosity,
Purity.
Lets go over each characteristic.
Flashpoint: The Temperature at which the fuel will give off enough vapors that they can be lit in air. This is a critical measurement, if the fuel you have has too low of a flashpoint, the fuel in the tank can heat up past the flashpoint and create enough vapor in the oil tank that will ignite from the flame. This will either cause a blow torch affect, and adjusting the wick will not fix the issue, or the flame could simply ignite the fuel in the tank and cause an explosion. This is why using the correct fuel is VERY IMPORTANT.
Dangerous Fuels Include: Gasoline, Coleman Fuel, White Gas, Paint Thinner, Mineral Sprits, Wood Alcohol, Naphtha, Turpentine, Benzene and any other fuel with a flash point under 124 degrees F.
If a lantern ever has a flame which you can not control, immediately place a bucket over the lantern to kill off the oxygen supply to the lantern. You can also bury the lantern in dirt or sand to kill airflow.
Note: Center Draft Oil Lamps often warm the oil more in usual operation and thus we suggest a slightly higher flashpoint fuel for these lamps if a lamp shows signs of acting as a runaway with any approved fuel listed above. Fuels around 145 to 175 Degrees F should suffice.
Viscosity: The Thickness of the liquid does matter as well, proper Kerosene and Lamp Oil need to be very thin for the cotton wick to carry the fuel to the flame fast enough. If the fuel is thicker, the cotton will struggle to do it’s job, the top of the wick will dry out and the flame will then start burning the wick instead of the fuel. This will cause soot to come off of the flame, as well as more poisonous Carbon Monoxide.
Any food grade fuel, as well as fuels that contain Citronella. Citronella can be used in oil lanterns only outdoors, but must be mixed with Kerosene 50-50 to thin out the fuel.
Purity: The purity of a fuel matters as well. If a fuel is a pure oil, usually of Petroleum, and follows the other two rules above, it is a good fuel to use in Tubular Lanterns and Flat Wick Oil Lamps.
Fuels that are impure can include those with dyes to color the fuel, Fuels with added scents to make them smell different. This also includes Paraffin Fuel, and Citronella.
Paraffin in the U.K. is kerosene. Paraffin Oil in the UNITED STATES is Liquid Candle Wax , and is mis-labeled for use in oil lamps and lanterns, when in fact it is only suited for Candle Oil Lamps that use small diameter (under 1/4”,) round wick. 99% or 100% Paraffin Oil is NOT designed or suitable for use in tubular lanterns or oil lamps that use flat wick, or Kosmos or Matador type oil lamps. Further, it burns only 1/2 as bright of any of the approved fuels listed above. Paraffin oil has a much higher viscosity and a flash point of 200 degrees or higher, as compared to the flash point of 150 degrees for kerosene. These differences inhibit the necessary capillary action of the wick, and will cause Lamps and Lanterns with 3/8″ or larger wick to burn improperly and erratic. This is because the Paraffin Wax and any other contaminates will clog the wick as the Cotton acts as a filter for the lantern. When the Wick Clogs, the flame will dry the top of the wick and burner the cotton instead. When that occurs, excess amounts of Carbon Monoxide are produced, which is a poisonous gas.
Once a wick is contaminated with paraffin oil, it must be replaced in order for the lantern to burner properly. If you must use paraffin oil, it may be mixed 1:10 to 2:10 (one to two parts paraffin,) to ten parts standard lamp oil or kerosene so that it will burn satisfactorily. Paraffin Oil is sold in the United States under the following trade names, which should be avoided except for use with lamps or lanterns with 1/4” Round of 3/8″ flat or smaller wick:
Looking to find the location of Sheridan air rifle serial numbers? Look no further! Our comprehensive guide will provide you with all the information you need. Discover where to locate the serial numbers on your Sheridan air rifle and unlock valuable insights about its history and authenticity.
sheridan air rifle serial numbers location
When it comes to Sheridan air rifles, locating the serial numbers can be essential for various reasons. The serial number of a Sheridan air rifle provides valuable information about its age, model, and manufacturing details. By knowing where to find the serial number, collectors and enthusiasts can better understand the history and value of their rifles.
The location of the serial numbers on Sheridan air rifles can vary depending on the model and production year. However, most vintage Sheridan rifles have their serial numbers engraved or stamped on the receiver or frame of the gun. This is typically found on either side of the receiver near the breech or above the trigger guard. Newer models may have their serial numbers located in similar areas or on other parts of the gun, such as under the barrel or inside the stock.
If you are unable to locate the serial number on your Sheridan air rifle, it is recommended to consult the manufacturer’s documentation or contact customer support for assistance. Having accurate information about your rifle’s serial number not only adds value to your collection but also helps with identifying spare parts, determining authenticity, and ensuring compliance with local regulations.
In conclusion, locating the serial numbers of Sheridan air rifles is vital for various reasons such as authentication, tracking ownership history, and ensuring legal compliance. By carefully examining the receiver or barrel, enthusiasts and collectors can easily find these unique identifiers. Remember to exercise caution while handling firearms and consult experts when necessary.
While the MeatEater crew may not publish directly a list of their specific equipment, with a little patience and some research we have identified some of the rifles that Steve Rinella does in fact shoot. These rifles are all similar but each are unique. Each of them is a high quality option, and represents a variety of budgets.
Steven Rinella shoots a variety of rifle models but always chooses left-hand actions and currently prefers the Weatherby Mark V Meateater Edition Rifle that he helped design. He has also been seen using a Savage Arms 110 rifle, a Custom Carolina Rifle, a custom built Weaver Rifle, and a CZ Model 452 for small game.
A similarity between all these rifles is all are left handed actions. Below we will talk about each one of these rifles. Keep reading to find out more about these rifles.
If you were to find Steve Rinella out hunting today, there is a good chance Steve would have his custom Weatherby Mark V MeatEater edition rifle in tow. This rifle was designed by Steve and is exclusively available in a left handed action. The rifle has the legendary Mark V action, which is one of the strongest bolt actions in the world thanks to its 9 locking lugs.
It also boasts an amazing 54 degree bolt lift, providing plenty of room for the largest optics. Like all Mark V rifles, the MeatEater edition has a SUB-MOA accuracy guarantee, a custom Trigger Tech Trigger and threaded barrel. The rifle comes with the with Weatherby’s Accubrake ST installed on the threaded barrel to reduce felt recoil.
The custom features of this edition include a unique #2 contour barrel with spiral fluting. The fluting allows the use of a heavier barrel contour, which helps with accuracy, but keeps the rifle weight down for those long spot and stalk hunts Steve is known for. The fluting also helps keep the barrel cooler between shots, another great way to increase the shot to shot accuracy of the rifle. All the metal of the rifle is coated with Cerakote to withstand any weather. The color scheme was pick by Steve, and is a combination of tungsten and black.
This custom rifle is paired with a hand laid, fiberglass stock. The stock is black with custom brown and gray accents. The stock is a Monte Carlo style for a solid cheek weld, and classic look. Currently this edition is only available in three calibers: .257 Weatherby Magnum, .300 Weatherby Mangrum, and 6.5-300 Weatherby magnum. I wasn’t able to determine in my research which of these calibers Steve has personally selected, but if I had to take a guess I would put my money on the .300 Weatherby magnum, with the 6.5-300 Weatherby magnum as a second choice.
Currently the rifle is listed with an MSRP of $2099.00 dollars on the Weatherby website. While the cost of this rifle is high, a full custom rifle easily exceeds this price. Should you wish to have something similar without the high cost, consider the MeatEater Edition Weatherby Vanguard, a full featured rifle for less than half the cost of the Mark V.
Savage Arms Rifle
Prior to his partnership with Weatherby, Steve was partnered with Savage Arms. This partnership comes as no surprise, Savage makes fine hunting rifles and Savage has a long history of providing left handed rifles, something Steve prefers as a left handed shooter. While my research didn’t turn up a lot of specifics regarding the specific rifle Steve was using from Savage, a few educated guess can help us have an idea of what he was using.
Steve said of his savage rifle, in a video on rifle fit, that he liked his Savage rifle because for an off the shelf rifle it fit him great. Paired with Talley scope mounts and a Vortex Razor scope Steve felt like he never had trouble finding his target even when shooting from very unconventional positions.
After watching some video and looking at photos of Steve using his Savage rifle I determined a few details. The rifle was most likely from the Savage 110 family of rifles. Steve’s specific rifle appeared to have stainless steel barrel with a very heavy contour. The stock appeared to be the classic Savage Accustock. Steve did confirm in a video that he uses Talley scope mounts.
If I were to venture a guess on his specific caliber for this rifle, I would lean towards 7mm Remington magnum or .300 Winchester magnum, as Steve has made mention on the MeatEater blog about preferring cartridges that are capable for taking cleanly all the north American game animals and those two calibers are mention specifically as good choices. Prices on the Savage 110 varies from low cost to high-end, allowing a wide variety of budgets the ability to have a quality hunting rifle.
Custom Carolina Rifle
Prior to his partnership with Savage Arms, Steve could often be seen hunting with his Custom Carolina Rifle (CCR for short) in the field. This rifle made by Carolina Custom Rifles was, and likely still is, one of Steve’s favorite rifles. His chambering of choice for this rifle was the 7mm Remington Magnum.
Custom Carolina Rifles builds solid, accurate, high end rifles. When you choose to hunt with a Custom Carolina Rifle, this company will become your partner, including you in all the decision making to make sure your rifle is exactly what you need it to be. While I wasn’t able to track down the exact specs of Steve’s CCR rifle, I can tell you that CCR uses only the best actions, barrels and stocks. Some of the parts are from Lilja, or Hart custom barrels. Actions from Stiller Predator are blueprinted and paired with stock options from companies like H-S Precision, McMillan, or Manners. Buyers can expect triggers by Timney or Jewell triggers, according to the CCR rifles website.
A quick look into the MeatEater social media posts and photos and you can tell that his CCR has a custom fluted barrel, paired with a solid and great looking camouflaged stock. One of the points that Steve makes about his experience with CCR rifles is that they not only built the rifle based on the demands of his hunting schedule, but CCR service also includes pairing the rifle with the perfect Vortex optic and provided assistance establishing a great custom hand load for supreme accuracy.
Rifles from CCR begin at $4795.00, no small sum of money, however this expense provides not only an amazing rifle guaranteed to shoot 1/2 MOA or less, but includes amazing customer service and additional resources and help beyond just the rifle.
Weaver Custom Rifle
A deep dive into Steve’s twitter revealed another great custom built rifle from Weaver Custom Rifle based out of Peyton, CO. Chambered in .270 WSM this rifle was described as a lightweight mountain rifle. Using a left handed Winchester model 70 action, Steve paired it with a 4-16 x 50mm Vortex optic. The stock is a Synthetic HT stock, color is tan with black webbing. Weaver Rifles included a custom floor plate engraved with the MeatEater Logo.
Should one wish to build a Weaver custom rifle, you can expect to spend $3000.00 dollars or more. They have tons of pictures of the rifles they have built available to view on their website. I recommend checking them out if you are in the market for a custom rifle.
One of the most unique parts of this rifle is the caliber selected. .270 WSM is a great flat shooting cartridge with a short action, perfect for a lightweight mountain rifle that doesn’t have punishing recoil. Finding the ammunition on the shelf might be trickier that other calibers, but this is great choice for big horn sheep and mountain goat hunting.
CZ 452
If you spend a little time looking through Steve Rinella’s social media, you might find a picture of him hunting squirrels. His pictures often show him shooting at his quarry from a variety of unconventional positions, but if your looking at what rifle he is shooting, high chance it is his left handed CZ 452. I couldn’t determine for sure the caliber for Steve’s rifle, but if I were to guess I would bet it is a .22 LR.
The CZ model 452 is a classic bolt action rimfire rifle. Available in all the classic rimfire cartridges, what likely made it the choice of Steve Rinella was that it was available with a left handed action. Should you wish to obtain one of these high quality rifles, you’ll either need to find the model 452 second hand or move to the updated model 457. MSRP on the 457 is around $475.00 or more depending on configuration.
While rabbits may be cute to look at, they’re not animals you want to share your garden with.
In addition to reproducing rapidly, rabbits will destroy your plants and can wreak havoc on your landscaping, yard, and flowerbeds.
Fortunately, you don’t have to resign your property to rabbit damage. In fact, there are many humane removal methods that can stop rabbits from eating your plants.
In this blog, we’ll discuss how to get rid of rabbits without killing them. Our tips will help you remove wild, cottontail, and European rabbits from your backyard, garden, or lawn.
Apply repellents and baits in areas away from children and pets.
If using products that contain chemicals, read the product labels carefully to ensure safe application.
If using live traps, handle any captured rabbits with care. Wear heavy gloves and protective clothing to avoid contact with diseases. Be aware of local laws regarding the relocation or euthanization of trapped animals.
How to Get Rid of Rabbits in Your Yard
Natural & Humane Methods
Want to get rid of rabbits for good? Try these home remedies:
1. Repellents
Rabbits have a strong sense of smell, and they use it to guide them to safe, tasty food sources. Fortunately, you can use that sense of smell in your favor if you’re trying to repel rabbits.
To keep these pests from returning, try using various homemade deterrents.
Here are our top suggestions:
Use repellents like dried blood meal or sulfur to keep bunnies from entering your garden in the first place. Sprinkle your repellent of choice in the parts of your yard that you want rabbits to stay out of. Make sure to re-apply the repellent after every heavy rain or anytime you water your lawn or garden. If you have dogs, be wary of using this method since they may be attracted to the blood meal.
Sprinkle cayenne pepper around the garden or near plants that rabbits love to eat.
Use a small, mesh bag to contain shavings of strong-smelling bar soap, and place it in high-traffic rabbit areas.
Grind together three hot peppers, three large onions, and a whole bunch of garlic. Add water to cover, let the mixture sit overnight, strain it, and add water to make a gallon of homemade rabbit deterrent. Spray it anywhere you’ve noticed rabbit activity.
Apply a light coating of animal lard to the stalks and base area of new seeding replacements to repel rabbits.
We recommend Liquid Fence Deer and Rabbit Repellent Concentrate if you’re looking for a more powerful repellent. This long-lasting, rain-resistant repellent is safe for use on landscaping, ornamental gardens, flowers, trees, vines, and shrubs and is harmless to plants and animals when used as directed.
Remember that repellents are only effective if you use them repeatedly and frequently since they can wear off quickly.
Pros: Easy, effective, affordable, non-toxic, gets rid of rabbits without killing them or harming dogs and other pets
Cons: These DIY deterrents require re-application after every heavy watering or rain (except for fencing of course)
2. Fencing
Use repellents and exclusion methods together to keep rabbits out of your garden for maximum effectiveness.
While fencing is time-consuming to install, it is the best way to control rabbits.
To prevent their entry, install chicken wire fencing or wire mesh around your lawn, garden, flower beds, and other areas you’d like to protect.
To ensure the fencing is rabbit-proof, we recommend using 15” tall poultry or bird netting (this product is a great option), although anything taller than 12” will work well. To prevent bunnies from digging under the fence, bury it at least 6” underground.
The top of the fence should be bent away from the garden bed, so rabbits can’t jump over it. You can protect bulbs with a dome or cage of chicken wire.
Pros: Fencing is affordable and humane and can keep other pests out of your garden.
Cons: Fencing can be difficult to install and requires routine repairs and maintenance.
3. Mesh hardware cloth
Create a second line of protection to keep rabbits away from your plants by using cylinders of ¼ inch-mesh hardware cloth to protect young fruit and ornamental trees.
For maximum protection, ensure the cylinders extend higher up the trees than a rabbit can reach while standing on its hind legs. The cylinders should be at least 1-2” off the tree trunk.
You can also use individual tin calls to create “collars” around plants so that they can grow to a less vulnerable size.
Pros: Easy, effective, inexpensive, nontoxic
Cons: Requires a good deal of manual work to install these barrier methods
4. Chicken Wire
Use chicken wire to protect your plants and keep rabbits out of your garden.
Simply wrap the wire around the garden. To prevent rabbits from burrowing underneath, dig the wire several inches into the ground.
You can also use netting to drape over your plants and prevent rabbits from nibbling on vulnerable growth.
Pros: Effective at preventing predation
Cons: Can be unsightly
5. Live traps
While rabbits are intelligent animals that are very difficult to lure into traps, you can do it.
To use live trapping as an effective rabbit control method, you must invest time and patience into determining the rabbits’ daily habits and routes of travel.
Well-placed live traps can catch and contain rabbits without harming them. Commonly used by rabbit control companies, live traps are a great way to quickly reduce rabbit populations without using lethal methods.
Not sure which live trap to use? We recommend Wilco’s Collapsible Live Trap, which is safe for rabbits, humane, and easy to set.
To make your live traps extra-effective, we recommend adding Wilco Rabbit Lure and placing the traps in the rabbit’s normal path of travel. This bait is a non-toxic paste that’s made from food-grade ingredients. While it attracts rabbits to the trap, it won’t harm them if they ingest it.
If you’re going to use live traps, you must treat the animals ethically.
All traps should be checked at least once a day.
Any trapped animals should be handled with care.
You should wear heavy gloves and protective clothing to avoid contact with diseases transmitted through the animal’s feces and urine.
If you choose to live-trap animals, you’ll need to understand your area’s relevant trapping rules and regulations, as it is generally illegal to relocate live-trapped animals.
If you choose to euthanize the animals, you must only use humane methods. Drowning is not an acceptable option.
While shooting can be an effective solution, it’s illegal in most municipalities and can be dangerous. DO NOT try to shoot rabbits unless you’re a skilled marksman capable of doing so safely and responsibly.
Pros: Effective, fast-acting, humane
Cons: Can be time-consuming to set up and manage, poses a risk of disease
Lethal Methods
If you want to eliminate rabbits, there are lethal methods you can use. That said, we always recommend using humane approaches and avoiding deadly techniques as much as possible.
6. Poison
If you want to kill rabbits, poison is one of the fastest methods. There are many store-bought rabbit positions designed to kill rabbits fast.
There are also jackrabbit baits on the market, but they’re highly restricted and come with many risks.
We advise caution with all poisons since these poisons contain dangerous toxins and are likely not safe for kids, pets, or non-target species.
Pros: Effective, fast-acting.
Cons: These products are highly toxic and inhumane and are not approved for use around kids, pets, or food.
7. Lethal traps
While there are a variety of non-lethal traps available to help you get rid of rabbits, some people prefer lethal traps.
Lethal traps kill rabbits quickly and can be used to cut down large rabbit populations.
Pros: Non-toxic, safer than poisons
Cons: Requires re-baiting and re-setting of traps, and disposing of dead rabbits, inhumane. Live trapping is also dangerous: live trapping can pose a risk of injury for the trapper and animals and may distress rabbits.
How do Wildlife Removal Companies Get Rid of Rabbits?
Interested in hiring a wildlife removal company to get rid of your rabbits? Here’s what you can expect:
Step 1: Inspection
When you hire a wildlife removal company, most teams will start with an inspection of your property.
During this inspection, they’ll arrive at your property, identify rabbit burrows, and assess current rabbit damage.
Next, they’ll make treatment recommendations. During this inspection, they’ll evaluate your property, identify the source and severity of the infestation, and discuss treatment options.
Step 2: Treatment
Next, the wildlife removal company will deliver the treatment method they’ve deemed most appropriate for your property.
Since rabbits reproduce rapidly, getting rid of them usually requires multiple treatments rather than a single appointment.
Step 3: Follow-up
Once the pest control experts have completed their initial phase of treatments, they may move on to exclusion recommendations designed to keep rabbits from returning to your property.
Keeping Rabbits Away
Keep bunnies off your property with these simple prevention tips:
Plant onions, garlic, marigold, and other strong-smelling plants around the border of your garden to deter rabbits. While there are no truly “rabbit-proof” plants, rabbits tend to stay away from strongly-scented herbs and plants like oregano, basil, and rhubarb.
Keep your yard as tidy as possible. Habitat modification is one of the best ways to get rid of bunnies. Remove hiding spaces by trimming back landscaping, raking up piles of brushes and leaves, and keeping your lawn mowed to limit shelter.
Let your domestic pets outside often. Rabbits see pets as predators and will be hesitant to visit a yard with pets.
Use scare tactics to startle rabbits. Motion-activated lights, shiny aluminum pie tins, old mirrors, and motion-activated scare devices can all help keep rabbits out of your garden without hurting them.
Use store-bought ultrasonic spikes. These spikes emit a noise that’s too high-pitch for people to hear, but that creates an intolerable racket for rabbits.
Need Additional Help? Turn to Pest Dude!
Rabbits can be tough pests to eliminate. If your DIY options have failed or you want expert help, it may be time to find a reputable, local wildlife removal company in your area.
Fortunately, we have a broad network of reputable partners in your area that can help you get rid of rabbits quickly and humanely.
New chicken owners are often quick to purchase heat lamps to keep their flock warm in the winter and to maintain warmth within the chick brooder. However, this heating method is not safe and there are MUCH better options available. Today we are going to discuss the best alternatives to heat lamps for chickens and other barnyard animals.
Heat lamps have been used for years to warm livestock during freezing temperatures. They are also used in brooders for young chicks. These lamps have contributed to hundreds upon hundreds of barn and house fires so I have sworn them off, but my animals still need to stay warm… so… what are my options?
What is the Purpose of a Heat Lamp
Before we discuss heat lamp alternatives, let’s talk about why livestock owners use heat lamps to begin with.
Heat Lamps in a Brooder
When baby chicks are purchased from a hatchery or if you hatch your own chicks, they don’t have a mother hen to sit under for warmth. Since they don’t have mama hen’s body heat and they can’t regulate their body temperature, there has to be an artificial heat source.
Day-old chicks need a temperature of 95 degrees F in the brooder. 2-week-old chicks need 90 degrees F and the temperature requirement continues to drop 5 degrees per week until they move out of the brooder.
Heat lamps are used to provide this heat for the chicks until they are ready to move outside.
Heat Lamps in the Coop
A heat lamp is also often used to warm a chicken coop during cold weather. This really isn’t necessary, but in some areas where the temperatures drop below freezing, the extra heat can be helpful.
Why You Shouldn’t Use Heat Lamps
Providing your animals with heat isn’t a bad thing, but using unsafe heating equipment is. There are a few reasons why you should avoid using heat lamps for your livestock so let’s jump into those.
1. They are a fire hazard
The number one reason to stay away from heat lamps is the high risk of fire. Heat lamp bulbs get very hot and the heat cannot be regulated. This heat is concentrated in one area and, if placed too close, can catch nearby materials on fire.
Traditional heat lamps are hung up with a metal clamp. These clamps are known to shift and release causing the lamp to fall. When a heat lamp falls, the heat is transferred directly to the surface that it falls on. If this surface is coop bedding, wood, or another combustible material then you almost certainly have a barn fire.
2. They shatter easily
Heat lamp bulbs are not shatterproof. This means that if a lamp falls, the bulb may shatter and spread glass shards all around the floor of the coop, barn, or brooder.
A hot bulb can also shatter if practically anything touches it while it is hot. Imagine your animals splashing a bit of water or a loose feather flying around… once that water or the feather hits the bulb, bam! You have glass everywhere and potentially a fire.
Even if the fallen heat lamp doesn’t catch anything on fire, the broken glass would still be a huge safety concern.
3. They don’t distribute heat evenly
The heat from a heat lamp does not distribute evenly… it concentrates in the center. This poses a fire risk and it can make it difficult for the chicks or other animals to find a spot with a comfortable temperature. Since heat lamps warm up the entire space, chicks (and other animals) have a difficult time if they get overheated.
4. They produce disruptive light
Heat lamps emit a bright light that animals can’t get away from. This light can disrupt their natural sleep patterns as well as their hormone production. If you are using a heat lamp for laying age birds, this additional light can cause them to continue to lay eggs even when their bodies want to rest.
5. Chickens can keep themselves warm
Adult birds don’t really need supplemental heat in the winter. As long as you provide a healthy environment with proper ventilation and a wind break, their feathers keep them warm. This is the same for most farm animals.
If you do need artificial heat for your animals, check out the safe heat lamp alternatives listed below.
6 Safe Alternatives to Heat Lamps for Chickens
Heat lamps are one of many options for keeping your animals warm. Let’s dig into safe alternative heat sources for your homestead.
1. Heat Plates
This is my go-to choice for a heat lamp alternative. Heating Plates serve the same purpose as heat lamps without the high risk of fire. There are horizontal heat plates that are made to be used with young chicks and there are vertical (stand-up) heat plates that can be used with older birds.
Horizontal heat plates provide heat to chicks using much less electricity than a heat lamp. The chicks gather under the plate just as they would gather under a mother hen. You can adjust the height of the plate easily as the birds grow.
A vertical heat plate can be used for ducklings and older birds as well as some other livestock. This is a plate that heats up to warm animals that are standing or laying down near it. Some plates switch from horizontal to vertical so you can use them throughout the lifetime of your chickens.
Heat plates allow the birds to choose if they want to be in the heated area or if they want to move to a cooler spot. In fact, these plates don’t even warm the air. They will only warm a solid object (like a chick) that passes through the radiant heat emitted from the plate. This is important because different chicks may be comfortable at different temperatures.
The surface of a heat plate doesn’t get hot, either. When you touch it, it should feel warm, but it won’t burn you or your animals.
Heat lamps put out continual light that can disrupt the animal’s natural sleep cycles, but heat plates produce no light so sleep patterns are undisturbed.
I use an Ecoglow brooder for young chicks and this heating plate for ducklings and older birds.
Advantages:
Less Electricity
Very Low Fire Risk
No Shatter Risk
Mimics Mother Hen
Radiant Heat
Low Surface Heat
No Artificial Light
Height Adjustable
2. Heat Pads
Electric heating pads are used as a heat lamp alternative for small animals (chicks, piglets, etc.), but they have to be protected from water. They can be placed under bedding, on the wall, or under a towel.
You can also make a faux heat plate by turning a small metal basket upside down and placing a heating pad on top. If you choose to use a heating pad, try to find one with a built-in thermostat.
Advantages:
Lower Electricity Usage
No Artificial Light
Low Burn Risk
No Shatter Risk
3. Hot Water Bottles
Bottles with hot water can be placed in with the animals that you are trying to warm. These bottles will need to be replaced frequently, but they can offer warmth temporarily. This is a safer alternative to a heat lamp that works well in an off-grid situation with no electricity, but it does require more labor on your part.
If you choose this method of heating, be sure to insulate the bottles with a rag or dish towel to keep the animals from burning themselves.
This won’t work for very young chicks that need high ambient temperatures (80-95 degrees F).
Advantages:
No Electricity Usage
No Fire Risk
No Shatter Risk
4. Ceramic Heat Emitter
Ceramic heat emitters are used in a similar fashion as heat lamps, but they provide heat without emitting light. No artificial light means that the animals’ natural sleep patterns are undisturbed. Since there is no glass bulb, they do not pose a shatter risk and the fire risk is much lower (but still present).
The surface temperature of the emitter can get very hot which can burn your animals if they touch it.
Advantages:
Less Electricity
Low Fire Risk
Low Shatter Risk
Radiant Heat Source
No Artificial Light
5. Deep Litter Method
During the winter, you can increase the heat inside your coop or shelter by layering new bedding down on top of old bedding. Piling the bedding up like this is called the deep litter method. This method will increase the temperature inside the shelter for your animals without a safety risk.
Advantages:
No Electricity Usage
Increase Ambient Heat Naturally
No Fire Risk
No Shatter Risk
No Artificial Light
6. Natural Warming
The best heat lamp alternative is no supplemental heat at all (except when it comes to baby chicks). Most animals are just fine in the winter without any artificial heat. Just be sure to provide your livestock with a shelter that has a windbreak and proper ventilation. This will keep them dry and out of the wind.
What we’ve done to judge the fastest crossbow in 2024
The fastest crossbow in 2024 is the TenPoint Nitro 505.
My recommendation, however is the Ravin R500 or the R29.
Read on to find out why.
For each crossbow’s FPS (feet-per-second), we sourced information from manufacturers and tests, and are confident it’s the most up-to-date at the time of the review.
Remember that any 400 fps crossbow is already electric, so these crossbows are taking it to another level.
In this article, we’ll be reviewing the following crossbows:
Fastest Crossbow on the market: TenPoint Nitro 505: 505 FPS
Most Accurate Fastest Crossbow: Ravin R29: 430 FPS
Fastest Barnett Crossbow: Hypertac Pro 430: 430 FPS
Fastest Crossbow for the Money/Youth: CenterPoint Wrath 430: 430 FPS
Before we review the fastest crossbows, let’s go over:
the advantages of speed
the disadvantages of speed
the difference between power and speed
one commonality between the crossbows
What are the advantages of a fast crossbow?
Longer range & better accuracy
The distinct advantage to a faster bow is that it creates a flatter trajectory. This improves aim over distance, not having to account for as much drop in the arc of the arrow.
What’s most impressive about performance improvements on the fastest crossbows over the last five years is how much it impacts accuracy over longer distance.
For example, the R500 and the TenPoint Nitro only drop about one inch over 40 yards compared to 20 yards, significantly more than less powerful crossbows.
Less chance of “jumping the string”
Not an uncommon phenomenon when hunting at longer ranges, the snap of the bow string upon firing is enough to startle game into a panic-driven movement reflex which, by the time the bolt arrives, may mean you hit the wrong part of the animal or miss it completely.
An extremely fast bow makes it less likely because, at 500+ FPS, a deer just won’t have enough time to react even at 60-80 yards.
What are the disadvantages of a fast crossbow?
Noise
It seems logical that if you wind a string up further and harder before letting it go, that this cause more vibrations, and therefore make more noise.
This is somewhat mitigated in the case of compound crossbows, as their pulley systems allow the energy to be stored in other parts instead of the string, thus reducing vibration.
On recurve bows – as mentioned later in the Excalibur Bulldog 440 review – vibration is amplified at high FPS, making purchasing a full suppression system worth considering.
Read more: Best crossbows on the market
Read more: Best crossbow for under $500
Read more: Best Women’s Crossbows
Equipment wear
When you build so much power into a crossbow, you are asking the limbs to store more energy when cocked. This will result in the possibility of broken limbs on the one hand, as well as having to restring your crossbow more often.
Not only this, but high speeds wear down the arrows – in fact, you’ll probably have to use manufacturer-specific equipment.
Accessories made for lesser bows are often incompatible, so you may see yourself tied to the manufacturer.
External Influence
Extreme speeds will magnify all of the variables in every shot. You’ll find yourself battling the wind, gravity and operator shakiness in different ways.
You’ll also find that some arrows which shoot fine at lower speeds can’t handle the added pressure of flying at 450-500 FPS – it’s fast!
Difference between kinetic energy (KE) and speed (FPS)
It appears that most hunters thirst for speed in their crossbow. This does makes sense, as more speed means more distance, better accuracy, and less chance for the animal to escape.
On the other hand, it raises questions of ethics as higher speeds at a more considerable distance may make you miss your target (or the intended part of the animal).
What’s more, when you increase speed, you often do so by reducing the mass of the arrow and therefore reducing the energy.
The following analogy may help to understand; first of all, imagine getting hit by a grain of sand at 100mph. Frustrating indeed, but nothing to write home about. Then imagine getting hit by a brick at 20mph. With the latter, you risk death.
The point is, when targeting speed, we should also target increased KE, to take down bigger animals you’re proud to take home.
One Commonality between these crossbows
Almost all of the bows have one thing in common: reverse-draw technology. Reverse-draw technology essentially means that you are drawing towards the riser – the aluminium connecting limb to bow – instead of away from it.
A lot of the crossbow companies pay royalties to Kempf – the designer – to use his patent, as there seems no better way (for now) to get more output from a crossbow.
Improved crossbow balance
The most powerful crossbows generally require longer power strokes, to generate more force.
This usually would create a more substantial weight imbalance toward the front of the crossbow.
Reverse draw technology shifts the risers from the front of the crossbow to its center, to provide excellent balance and reduce front-heavy crossbows.
Exceptional accuracy
The centrally positioned risers mean that the crossbow doesn’t feel as heavy, and you can both hold your aim for longer, or quickly react to unpredictable situations.
Heavily reduced noise
The fact the string pulls through these risers effectively elongates the power stroke, while reducing the draw weight. Aside from generating higher speeds, it also results in significantly less vibration, meaning shots 3x quieter.
Better trigger experience
If you don’t have as much draw weight, the trigger isn’t going to be as strained, and this results in a better, all-round shooting experience.
The Fastest Crossbow Reviews
Ravin R500 Vs TenPoint Nitro 505
Firstly, take a moment to recognize that in 2019 we had just broken the 400 FPS barrier with the TenPoint Nitro XRT 432 (Cabela’s/Amazon). Within a year, the XRT was flying at 470 FPS. Now in 2024, we have two 500+FPS crossbows. An incredible performance leap in just four years.
Secondly – and read this carefully – these crossbows offer more penetration over 50 yards than a compound bow at point blank!
R500 at 50 yards
Do I buy the R500 or the Nitro 505?
If you’re looking for purely the fastest, the Nitro 505 is the fastest crossbow in the world, flying ten feet per second faster than the R500. However, the R500 is a more consistent crossbow when tested with field points, multiple broadheads, and from multiple positions. The R500 experienced ‘flyers’ less regularly and not nearly as wildly as the Nitro 505.
A few poor review comments on the TenPoint website support this, claiming poor grouping and quality control before shipping.
Safety
The R500 also feels like a safer bow thanks to its design – a shroud that covers the string.
Pricing
Pricing is always important. When both crossbows came out, you had to spend upwards of $3000. Check Amazon (R500 / Nitro 505) or Cabela’s (R500 / Nitro 505) for the latest prices.
Performance
Crossbow performance, as mentioned, is improving dramatically year on year. However, the R500 and the Nitro 505 are certainly not the most accurate crossbows we’ve tested. Supporting (yet necessary) accessories, such as bolts, fletchings, broadheads, etc., are not keeping pace. In the next couple of years, this may be where crossbow brands try to make gains, making these bows as reliable as they are powerful.
Fastest Crossbow in the World/Fastest TenPoint Crossbow: The Nitro 505
When you first look at it, it follows the typical TenPoint design, with its ACUslide cocker, reverse-draw technology, and some slightly beefed-up limbs. The knocks on the bolts are also a little beefier. You can use these new knocks on old TenPoints, but you can’t use older versions on the new Nitro 505 because the bolts are designed to perform (or not break!) at extreme speeds.
The ACUslide cranking mechanism feels wonderfully safe. It takes all the weight out of the action and will not unwind on you halfway through. It also decocks so safely that your children can perform the entire process. In comparison, this was a better experience than the original Ravin until Ravin included the automatic e-cocking mechanism, which is another technological leap forwards. The Nitro’s finger shield protects you comfortably from the string.
Although not on par with the crossbow for quality, the package scope has been built by Hawke and is a marked improvement on the typical standard scopes they include.
The S1 trigger is a two-stage zero-creep trigger with a crisp break on the shot at four pounds in testing.
The Nitro 505 was also a little louder than some other bows, but it’s understandable with the power and vibration it generates.
Ravin has developed and introduced a Hex Coil system mounted to a reverse-draw system to reach eye-watering speeds and make their crossbow the best for portability and maneuverability. Uncocked, it’s 7.7 inches, and when cocked, it sits at a streamline of 3.6 inches. With a weight of 8.4 pounds and a length of 28 inches, you never feel hampered by trees and branches and will often find creative ways to aim from cover.
Cocking a crossbow has become painless and automatic. The crossbow has a VersaDrive cocking system with an integral screw drive that has allowed the Ravin team to include an electronic cocking option on a later release without the need for a cocking crank. If this is for you, ensure the version you buy includes it.
I like this design’s safety because the crank is housed in a shroud that protects your fingers and body from accidents around the string.
This crossbow is capable of deadly accuracy of well over 100 yards (although we don’t recommend this for hunting). I loved seeing it tested with the Garmin X1i Crossbow Scope to see what’s possible when the best crossbow and scope technology meets.
This scope isn’t included in a standard package, though! You’ll get a fully-assembled crossbow, six bolts with field points, a removable draw handle, a quiver, and an illuminated speed-compensating scope. I feel that some of these add-ons are a little cheaper than the crossbow itself, which is a shame for such an expensive purchase.
Understandably, the bolts are tailored to the extreme power of the R500; your warranty will be voided if you use any others.
Scorpyd, sadly, decided to recall the Nemesis due to serving wear issues.It’s a shame as the Nemesis flew at a whopping 480 FPS.
The 480 FPS rating was taken with a 400-grain arrow. There are reports of a massive 505 FPS achieved with the 375-grain bolt; which would be the first time a crossbow broke the 500-FPS barrier back in 2019. Was this a 500-FPS crossbow?
At 480 FPS, this crossbow generated a whopping 189.2 FPKE.
Scorpyd knows how to make fast crossbows, and seem to prioritise it over anything else.
That’s not to say though that the bow didn’t have balance, precision and versatility, thanks to its reverse-draw technology and patented SearLoc Trigger System.
Special Mentions
Possibly the first ever 500+ FPS crossbow back in 2019
TenPoint Nitro XRT is one of our favourite crossbows ever. It doesn’t just appear in our review of the fastest crossbows, but in our review of best crossbows, too.
It’s an all-round monster weapon, which hits a crazy 470 FPS, generating more than 185 FPKE.
It has a silent draw system, and an improved trigger with a string-latch design (although we still felt there was room for improvement). It is also comfortable to shoulder for those long days hunting.
It’s excellent weight-distribution with the reverse-draw technology make it a piece of cake to handle and aim. Perhaps the only thing stopping this crossbow being our favourite ever is the expensive price tag.
The Aculeus remains in the top three for speed, and will undoubtedly be available at a discount rate from the new Scorpyd Nemesis. This could work in its favor, given that these crossbow prices range into the thousands.
What’s more, you can enjoy all the typical advantages of a recurve bow, in maintenance and crossbow weight.
We wonder, however, just how long those limbs are going to last on a cocked crossbow 23 inches wide and with a 14.5-inch power stroke.
Another issue is noise. Perhaps you want to try heavier bolts or purchase a full suppression system? This, of course, will take away a little from the 440 FPS – your call!
Can a deer get out of the way anyway if a bolt is travelling 440 FPS? Maybe not, but ethical hunting is important. If you hit the wrong part of the animal, it could end up hurt, or taking longer to die than is necessary.
That’s because they didn’t achieve 430 FPS by compromising other aspects needed for crossbow hunting.
The Ravin R29 sits in at an incredible 5.5 inches shorter than the R20, at 29 inches in length, with a more than reasonable 12.5-inch power stroke to deliver a punishing 164 lbs of kinetic energy.
It has incredible six-inch cocked full width and weighs only 6.75 lbs. This makes it our favourite fast gun for a long day hunting. You can shoulder this crossbow all day, and instantly react to surprises. Wow!
If you’re happy to compromise down to 400 FPS (I mean, come on, it’s not exactly slow…), check out the Ravin R26. This won our best crossbow; with sleeker dimensions and all-round perfection.
With the scope, it showed impressive, tight grouping with field tips over 60-70 yards. Although not pre-installed, I also liked how straightforward it was to set up.
The bow is fairly noiseless thanks to the unique cam design on the inside of the limbs, which reduces vibration (which produces noise).
Its unique integrated string hook system functions well with the TriggerTech Zero Creep trigger, which fires at exactly three pounds. TriggerTech is Barnett’s proprietary technology that drops a free-floating roller between the sear and trigger, making the shot crisp and smooth. It’s better visualized than described:
The Hypertac 430 has a custom feel to it. The buttstock and cheekpiece have micro-adjustment options to set the perfect length of pull. The forend has an optional flip-down Verti-Grip to shoot the crossbow like an assault rifle.
The bow has a cocking crank integrated, which allows you to both cock and decock safely. If you release the crank before it’s cocked, it will not dangerously unload. On the negative side, the crank was unexpectedly loud, as was the removal of the safety.
The package bow comes fully assembled with three 22-inch Hyperflite arrows, a 1.5-5×32 illuminated speed-compensating scope, an integrated cocking crank, a side-mount quiver, and rail lube.
Also, a special mention for the proprietary (and therefore not the easiest to get hold of) Hyperflite bolts. Despite being a little expensive, they have a high-quality feel with a slimmer 204 diameter, 1000 straightness, stiff spine with 60 grains upfront to increase your FOC by 25%, increasing penetration by 30% over a standard crossbow bolt.
Fastest Crossbow for the Money/Youth: Centerpoint Wrath 430
For this reason, I love to recommend the Wrath as the best crossbow for women or youth. Its short length (28,26 inches) and nine-inch Width, when cocked, are the best you will find on a bow two or three times less expensive than most on this list.
The Wrath is attractively priced for beginner hunters at less than $1000. You get a high-quality crossbow at an entry price.
Velocity Outdoor, the parent company for CenterPoint Archery, bought out Ravin in 2018, and we see the Wrath share technological similarities, such as the wheel system the best Ravin crossbows have.
It has a bullpup design, meaning the release lies behind the trigger. This design leads to a longer power stroke and increased speed despite not having a longer bow.
It also has a folding stirrup which is useful when using the rope cocker. There is a package version with a silent cocking crank, too. The cocking crank is useful as a bipod which is excellent for beginners or youth hunters, given the crossbow’s 9-pound weight.
Safety is also a primary consideration, which is wonderful news for beginner/young crossbow hunters. When you cock this crossbow, it automatically assumes the safe position. What’s more, it’s not possible to dry fire.
The package includes a fantastic 4×32 illuminated scope with ballistic aiming points inside, three 400-grain carbon arrows with field points, a quiver, and the earlier-mentioned rope cocker.
Conclusion – the fastest crossbow
The fastest crossbow is sure to be the Scorpyd Nemesis, which may be the first crossbow to break the 500-FPS barrier!
Until it comes out in a few weeks, the champion remains the 470 FPS TenPoint Nitro XRT, not only of note for its speed but for its all-round excellence as a weapon.
All of the above crossbows are excellent over distance, without compromising power.
If you prefer the traditional recurve bow, then look no further than the Excalibur Bulldog 440. We’d be interested in your feedback down below on its durability and how often it needs taking care of.
Batteries that have liquid electrolyte sloshing around in them are sometimes referred to as ‘wet’, ‘flooded’ or ‘wet lead acid’ batteries.
To start the engine, boats have a starting or ‘cranking’ battery, like those used in cars, which delivers very high loads for a few seconds.
Only a small portion of the battery’s capacity is used and this is restored by the alternator once the engine is running.
For powering everything else (i.e. chartplotter, lights, fridge, etc.) boats use a domestic, or ‘house’ deep-cycle (or deep-discharge/traction) battery bank which draws a much smaller amount of power over a longer period of time.
It’s important that wet lead acid batteries are stored in a ventilated area. A disadvantage is that they can ‘gas off’ (release hydrogen) if faulty, overcharged or getting old.
Pros: cheap, readily available, lots of choice, starter batteries can be bought in automotive stores. Cons: heavy, can leak, need regular charging, useless once flat, can gas off.
Article continues below…
Wet lead acid – dual/leisure battery
An ‘in-between’ option is the ‘dual’ or leisure battery. A compromise between starting and deep-cycle batteries, these are popular on boats that carry only a single battery, or prefer to have the same type of battery for simpler charging.
Maximus had a leisure battery for starting the engine (an 85Ah Green Power) and a 100Ah deep-cycle Lifeline Battery for powering the rest of electrical equipment.
Both were flat after being left on board for two years and so could not be revived.
Pros: cheap, readily available, lots of choice, dual-purpose starter and domestic. Cons: heavy, can leak, need regular charging, useless once run flat, can gas off.
Sealed lead acid batteries (gel & AGM)
Nobody wants battery acid leaking into the bilge, but there’s a price to pay if you want more durable batteries.
Sealed lead acid batteries are sometimes referred to as VRLA (valve regulated lead acid) and there are two main types – absorbed glass mat (AGM), where the battery plates are protected by fine-stranded glass mats – and gel, where the liquid electrolyte has been converted into a gel.
AGM batteries can be used for both starter and house applications whereas gel batteries are better suited for house applications only.
Both types can withstand many more charge/discharge cycles than conventional deep-discharge batteries – for example, a 7-10 year lifespan rather than a 4-5.
Pros: leak-proof, longer lifespan than wet lead acid, AGM can be dual-purpose starter and domestic. Cons: twice the price of wet lead acid, up to 25% heavier, need regular charging, useless once flat.
Lead carbon batteries
Lead carbon batteries are not widely known. Our electrician had never fitted them, and indeed I hadn’t considered these until I spoke to Victron Energy.
However, they are highly regarded by PBO contributor Paul Sumpner, who fitted Leoch lead carbon batteries to his electric-propulsion narrowboat Old Nick.
Paul worked out his requirements, which were a regular DoD of 50%, year-round usage, a minimum of 48V, 600Ah, zero maintenance, a life cycle of 3,000+ discharges, non-vertical mounting and to be able to survive a regular partial state of discharge. Plus, they couldn’t “completely blow the budget”.
“It became clear that only lead carbon or lithium batteries would be suitable,” he said, and later confirmed he couldn’t be happier with the equipment he chose.
Lead carbon batteries are an advanced type of VRLA battery, which has a positive plate (anode) of lead, but a negative (cathode) plate made of carbon composite.
According to Victron, the advantages are less sulfation, and a lower charge voltage, meaning higher efficiency and less corrosion of the positive plate. Overall, the result should be an improved cycle life.
Pros: leak proof, longer life, less sulfation. Cons: more expensive, can’t be used for starter motor, larger and heavier than AGM or lead acid.
Lithium batteries
Lithium-ion is a broad chemistry of batteries, the most common being LiFePO4 (Lithium Iron Phosphate). They can withstand four or five times the number of cycles compared to most deep-cycle lead acid batteries (4,000+), can go down to a much lower state of charge, and can keep a reasonable level of charge for up to 12 months.
While lead acid batteries, in practice, only allow 30% of rated capacity, the best lithium batteries can be discharged to 70-80% of the rated capacity.
So really, a 100Ah lithium battery is the equivalent to having a 200Ah lead acid battery, only it will usually charge much quicker, is half the weight and a lot smaller.
A word of warning, though. Although lithium batteries can accept fluctuating voltage (13.6V-14.6V) like lead acid batteries, they should not be directly charged from an alternator because voltage spikes could damage them. A dedicated charger and battery management system is a necessity.
Pros: long-lasting, can use 80% of capacity, easier to manage, small, lightweight. Cons: expensive (up to 4 x cost of wet lead acid), boat adaptations required.
Next steps
Having had a brief look at batteries, I called marine surveyor Ben Sutcliffe-Davies. I wondered if there was any possibility of reviving flat batteries.
“I’ll be honest with you, start with new batteries,” he said. “You’re relying on this battery to start the boat. Yes it might pick up, but I guarantee it’ll be like a dying swan when you need it.”
For domestic systems, Ben likes Numax batteries, which he says a lot of the industry use. For the cranker, he said, any automotive battery would do.
“I went down to my local tyre and exhaust place, and just got four heavy-duty deep cycle leisure batteries and one tidy cranker for the engine,” he told me.
Thanks to our Project Boat Supporters
Dell Quay Marine, Osculati, Raymarine, Shakespeare Marine, TruDesign, Screwfix, Coleman Marine Insurance, MDL Marinas, Premier Marinas, seajet, Marine & Industrial, Clean to Gleam, Dometic, West System, Farécla, Navigators Marine, Lewmar, RYA, Aqua Marine, Ecobat, Victron Energy, Scanstrut, T Sails and XP Rigging.
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