Night fishing for trout can be a real challenge, but it can also come with great rewards. Some of the biggest trout come out at night and can be caught close to shore. There are a lot of questions around trout fishing at night and I hope to answer them for you here.

Do Trout Come Out At Night?

As trout mature, they tend to do most of their hunting and feeding during the night. They come out at night to hunt for minnows, shiners, mice, and smaller fish.

This is why night is a great time if you want to target big fish. The majority of an average trout’s diet is made up of insects and worms. However, as they grow in size (typically over 20″), they will look for bigger meals such as minnows and smaller fish.

Of course, if the opportunity arises during daylight, they will attack a wounded or unsuspecting minnow. This is why lures work so well at catching trout. However, it is much easier for these big trout to sneak up on and ambush prey in the darkness of night.

Big trout come out at night not only because hunting is easier, but also because it is safer. A big trout’s only real predators are birds, humans, and sometimes bears. This makes it dangerous for them to move into the shallows during the day where they can be seen. But at night they can safely move into the shallows where their prey is plentiful.

Do Trout Sleep?

Trout sleep, but not in the same way that we humans do. Rather than shutting completely down, they will go into a sort of trance. They may even need to continue swimming if they are in a river.

Is Trout Fishing Good At Night?

Normally, trout fishing is not very good at night, however the exception is if you are targeting trout over 20 inches. Big trout feed on smaller fish, and they are most actively hunting at night.

What Time of Day is Best For Trout Fishing?

The best time to fish for trout is around sunrise and sunset. The reason is because this is when there is the most bug activity. Bugs are the main food source for 99% of trout. That being said, the best time to catch giant trout is after dark.

So all in all, If you are fishing an area with only smaller trout, you are probably better off fishing during the day light. But if you know there are some big trout over 20 inches, then it may be worth fishing after dark.

Do Trout See At Night?

Trout are a major predator within their ecosystem and rely heavily on eyesight. Although they don’t have night vision, they are good at detecting movement and seeing outlines.

When you are choosing the lure you’ll use to fish for trout at night, it’s important to use opaque, dark colors, as well as fish-like profiles.

Biologists have also been doing a lot of research on something called lateral lines. These are built in sensors that fish use to detect vibrations and other disturbances in the water. These lateral lines play a huge role in helping trout key in on their target. So even if a fish can’t see your lure, it will likely be able to detect the vibrations of it.

Can You Catch Trout at Night With PowerBait?

You can catch trout with PowerBait at night, but it not as effective as lures or even worms. Trout rely partially on vibrations to hunt prey at night, and since PowerBait doesn’t make any movement, it doesn’t put off any vibrations.

PowerBait is also designed to catch stocked trout rather than wild trout

Do Stocked Trout Bite at Night?

Stocked rainbow trout generally don’t bite at night. They have been raised in a controlled environment and fed fish pellets their whole life. Although they still have some natural instincts, they haven’t grown up with a need to hunt for food at night.

And as I mentioned earlier, the trout that feed at night are for the most part, big trout that rely heavily on eating smaller fish to maintain their size. Stocked trout are usually around 8 to 12 inches and after being stocked in the lake or river, will eat mainly insects and other small bugs.

If you want to fish for stocked trout, your best bet would be to use worms.

Trout Fishing at Night with Worms

Worms are a good bait for catching trout at night. They put off both smell and movement which can help trout to find them in the dark. Fish them under a bobber close to the shore. They work best during or after a rain.

Bait fishing for trout at night isn’t the most effective method. Most trout aren’t hunting for food at night, so it’s important to catch their attention and trigger their instinct with something like a spinner or Rapala. These will put off a strong vibration alerting trout near by.

Lure Colors For Trout Fishing at Night

Since it is more difficult for trout to see at night, it is important to use colors that will give clear profiles for trout to see. This is done best with colors like black, purple and dark blue. These will have a solid outline against a moonlit or starry sky.

You should avoid clear swimbaits that will be difficult for fish to see.

If you want to learn more check out my article on lure colors for night fishing.

Trout Fishing at Night with Lights

Some anglers use lights at night to fish for speckled sea trout. These lights can attract speckled trout and help to illuminate your baits and lures. However, lights do not work well for attracting freshwater trout when night fishing. In fact, lights are likely to scare fish away.

You should still bring a head lamp or a flashlight for your own use of getting around in the dark, but try not to shine the light into the area you are trying to fish.

Some night anglers prefer using red lights because they allow your eyes to stay dilated so you can see better in the dark.

Brown Trout at Night

Your best chances at having a good experience night fishing for trout is to go somewhere that is known for big brown trout. Brown trout are the most active at night and are extremely aggressive.

Use solid dark colored swimbaits, spinners, and even topwater lures. Most of the brown trout move into shallow water near the banks at night. They are hunting for minnows, frogs, and even mice.

Brown trout have some of the most sensitive lateral lines amongst trout. This is why it can be vary important to utilize lures that vibrate, rattle and splash.

Conclusion

If you want to try night fishing for trout, go somewhere that is known for having big trout over 20 inches, preferably big browns. Use lures that put off a lot of vibration and or splash near the surface. Focus mainly in shallow water near shore. And be careful not to shine lights into the spots you are fishing.

Twenty years ago, suppressors were a rarity in the civilian shooting world. The legal challenge of owning a suppressor made them unattractive to most shooters, and few if any major manufacturers produced them. Today, suppressors seem to be everywhere. Competitive rifle shooters, defense-minded individuals and hunters can be seen with these sound-reduction devices attached to their firearms.

As great as they are, suppressors have a problem. They can control the muzzle blast and report of a rifle cartridge, but they can do nothing to mitigate the crack associated with a bullet passing through the sound barrier. Technology can’t trump physics.

The solution is to slow down the bullet below the supersonic threshold. That is easier said than done, especially when you don’t want to sacrifice terminal performance. Ammunition manufacturers have had a tough time solving this, but Hornady, with its Subsonic rifle line, threads the needle.

Most of the time I’m hunting or shooting with a suppressor, I am not interested in making the rifle as quiet as possible. For range or general hunting use, it is sufficient that the suppressor reduces the recoil and muzzle blast as well as brings the report down to hearing-safe levels. For these needs, subsonic ammunition is not necessary.

There are times, though, when I want things to be as quiet as possible. For me, this usually applies when I am hunting feral hogs that are destroying a farmer’s field. In such circumstances, subsonic ammunition can be a game-changer.

As we have seen suppressor use skyrocket in this country among hunters and shooters, specialized cartridges and loads have entered the market. The most popular cartridge that was purpose-built for suppressor use is undoubtedly the .300 BLK.

Though Advanced Armament Corporation gets credit for standardizing the cartridge, much of the innovation happened years earlier. J.D. Jones of SSK Industries developed the .300 Whisper cartridge specifically to perform in semiautomatic, bolt-action and single-shot rifles at subsonic velocities.

Though there are slight dimensional differences between the two cartridges, the .300 Whisper and the .300 BLK are both based on the .221 Fireball case, necked-up to 0.308 inch. By going to a far heavier bullet than the case was designed for, SSK and AAC were able to achieve subsonic velocities while still maintaining a safe and reliable powder capacity.

One of the most attractive elements of the .300 BLK is its compatibility with standard AR-15s and magazines. Since ARs have become the most popular rifles in America, this is not a small thing. If an AR owner wants to dip a toe into the subsonic water, buying a .300 BLK upper is all it takes. For deer-size game at reasonable ranges, this cartridge offers plenty of power in a handy package.

The .300 BLK can be very effective when subsonic use is preferred, but it is by no means the only option. When Hornady launched its Subsonic line of rifle ammunition in 2018, it began with the .300 BLK. This year the company added several more options.

For 2020, Hornady’s Subsonic rifle selection comprises four loads: the 190-grain .300 BLK, 175-grain .30-30 Win., 395-grain .450 Bushmaster and 410-grain .45-70 Gov’t. I sampled the .300 BLK and .30-30 Win. loads using two popular and commonly available rifles: a Ruger American Ranch Rifle and a Marlin Dark Series 336.

The Ruger American line has built a reputation for performance, often outshooting guns that retail at far higher prices. My .300 BLK sample was one of the newer Ranch models, with a five-round detachable box magazine, Picatinny rail and a 16.12-inch threaded barrel. I mounted a 3-9x42mm scope from SWFA in Burris Signature rings. With a suppressor attached, the Ranch Rifle measured 42 inches overall and weighed 8.9 pounds.

The .30-30 test rifle was a modern twist on an age-old design: the Marlin Model 336 Dark Series. This rifle is a tricked-out Marlin lever gun with a threaded barrel, black painted stock, XS optic rail and ghost-ring sights.

If you are in the market for a suppressor-ready lever-action .30-30, this rifle is about the only lever-action game in town. Yes, the Mossberg’s 464 SPX Flex is threaded for its standard A2 flash hider, but you would need to buy an adapter because that thread pattern is 1/2×28 while almost all centerfire suppressors are 5/28×24. You can find adapters at retailers like SilencerShop.com.

The optic rail on the 336 Dark Series provides a great deal of mounting real estate, but the rifle’s stock geometry is such that a scope must be mounted low for a proper cheek weld. After experimenting with various options, I chose Leupold’s VX-5HD 1-5×24 for its useful magnification range and an objective lens that allowed me to mount it down low. This scope is equipped with a CDS elevation dial, which is particularly useful given the rainbow trajectory of subsonic rifle loads.

Both rifles came suppressor-ready right out of the box with 5/8×24 threads at the muzzle. I mounted my SilencerCo Omega 300 suppressor and traded it between the two rifles for the testing.

With the suppressor in place, recoil was almost nonexistent with both rifles. The “thump” of the bullets impacting the dirt backstop was louder than the shot. The combination of soft recoil and slow velocities allowed me to consistently see my rounds impact on target at 100 yards. This low recoil and mild report demonstrates just how valuable suppressors can be for training new shooters and hunters, particularly younger individuals.

In case you’re wondering, subsonic rifle ammunition isn’t noticeably quieter than standard velocity loads unless a suppressor is used. If you fire it without a suppressor in place, it’s going to damage your hearing just like standard ammo would.

I grew up in and still hunt frequently in Florida where feral hogs have been present since the Spanish brought them over in 1540. They can be extremely destructive to habitat, and we pursue them aggressively.

When the .300 BLK came onto the scene, many of my friends and I began using it with suppressed AR-15s, hoping for the chance of taking out several members of a sounder without alarming the group. We found the sound reduction to be excellent but the terminal performance lacking.

Early attempts at subsonic ammunition often used off-the-shelf .30 caliber bullets that were designed to expand at the far faster velocities of the .308 Win. or .30-06. These bullets would pencil through the hogs, causing minimal trauma. Ethically, this was not acceptable.

This is the exact problem that Hornady’s ballisticians sought to solve when they developed this product. When they set their sights on developing their Subsonic rifle ammunition, they started from scratch in terms of bullets. The result of their research and testing was the Subsonic-eXpanding or Sub-X bullet.

Sub-X bullets use a traditional lead core and a thin, grooved gilding metal jacket. There is a generous hollowpoint fitted with a polymer Flex Tip insert that aids expansion and allows the bullet to be safely compatible with the tubular magazines found in most lever guns.

From top to bottom, this bullet is engineered to expand. The exact definition of subsonic depends on some environmental factors, but it is generally just below 1,200 fps. This combination of features on the Sub-X allows it to reliably expand at subsonic velocities, even down to 900 fps. With an impact velocity of 1,020 fps, Hornady has achieved 16 to 18 inches of penetration on ballistic gelatin with 90 percent weight retention.

I chronographed both loads on a reasonably warm day, with temperatures hovering around 85 degrees. The .300 BLK load had an average velocity of 1,087 fps, which meant it was consistently subsonic. At this speed, the Sub-X bullets would expand out to about 400 yards. With 200-plus inches of drop at that range, I don’t see myself taking such a shot on game. Accuracy was good, with the best group of the day measuring at under a half-inch and an average of three three-shot groups right at an inch.

The .30-30 load actually moved quite a bit faster, with the average velocity from the Marlin 336 being 1,198 fps from the 16.25-inch barrel. When I shot on hotter days, some of the .30-30 rounds actually broke the sound barrier, making for a noticeably louder report downrange. When temperatures were in the 70s or lower, this was a non-issue. This illustrates just how difficult it is to construct ammunition that will perform consistently in a wide variety of firearms under wildly different conditions.

I tried to connect with a wild boar while I had the guns in my possession, but fortune didn’t smile on me. However, I know Hornady’s Neal Emery and several others took pronghorns with the Subsonic in .30-30 and .300 BLK—each with just one shot. Emery’s buck was shot at 87 yards, and he found his Sub-X bullet fully expanded against the off-side hide, and it had mushroomed just as advertised.

That kind of performance represents a stark contrast to what I’ve seen from other manufacturers’ efforts at subsonic ammunition. My son will hunt deer for the first time this fall, and given the performance I’ve seen from the Hornady Subsonic rifle ammunition, I won’t hesitate to let him use it.

Barring some legislative catastrophe, suppressors are here to stay. For good reason, too. Size and cost aside, why wouldn’t you want something that reduces recoil and muzzle blast? And to maximize the utility of suppressors, subsonic ammunition is a key element in the equation.

Hornady has been a leader in its field for decades and is once again driving innovation. The company’s Subsonic rifle ammunition allows for a minimum sound signature without a subsequent loss in lethality.

Hornady Subsonic Rifle Ammo Accuracy Results

Spring is in the air here in Maine. Spring chic’s, piglets and turkeys are starting to be come available at local farm supply stores. I thought I would check in with Harris Turkey Farm to see what it takes to raise my own turkeys. Here’s what they had to say.

We buy our turkey poults at one day old. If you are looking to raise a few of your own turkeys here are a few things to keep in mind to grow a healthy flock.

• You should buy poults from a flock that has been tested free of diseases. Ask if the hatchery or farm has been NPIP tested. This voluntary program helps ensure the flock is free of 2 types of Salmonella infections.
• Keep them babies warm!!! We can’t stress this enough, the first week of life they need to be 95 degrees. If they are too cold, they will pile up together and suffocate. If you are using a heat lamp, make sure it is secure. Many house, barn, garage, and shed fires happen every year from heat lamps that are not secured properly. As they grow, you can decrease the heat by 5 degrees each week. Remember to check the temperature at their level.
• Provide 24 hour access to food and water, and have enough space to all eat at once. If there isn’t enough space, the less aggressive birds will eat smaller amounts and not grow as well. Only use watering containers they CANNOT get into. Turkey poults don’t swim! If they get wet, they will be chilled and may die.
• Not all food is created equal, turkeys need a high protein and energy food with balanced vitamins and minerals. As babies, do not feed them any food other than what is designed for them. No table scraps, no sunflower seeds, no scratch feed. You can supplement their diet when they get older. We use and recommend Blue Seal feeds.
• When is the best time to get your poults? That depends on how big you want them. For Thanksgiving, we raise broad breasted whites for 13-15 weeks. The toms (males) will be 20 +/- pounds and the hens (females) will be around 13-16 pounds. If you want a larger turkey, plan to raise them for 16-18 weeks. A tom that is 22 weeks old, could be 40 pounds dressed at Thanksgiving!!! You had better plan for some left overs. Heritage breeds will take 5-6 months to reach 15 pounds.
• The best dressed award goes to… You! You don’t have to process/butcher the birds yourself, but there aren’t too many places that offer turkey processing the week of Thanksgiving. We do not process turkeys for other people for biosecurity reasons, and our state licensing doesn’t allow us to do that.
• Only allow poults to access the outdoors when they have primary and secondary feathers (usually 3 weeks.) Don’t kiss your poults, they can carry bacteria and viruses that don’t affect them, but can cause you to get sick. Be sure to wash your hands after handling them and filling their feeders and watering containers.
• You need to provide 1-2 square feet/bird for young poults. As adults, if you choose to raise them in an enclosed building, they need 4-5 square feet per bird.

We are not veterinarians, but have plenty of experience. If you are unsure about something, send us an email and we will do our best to answer it or direct you to someone who can.

It seems, for the commercial pistol market, the future is in your holster.

The last half-decade has seen a veritable onslaught of options from every major manufacturer we can think of — from the first-generation of true pocket pistols, focused on “shrink it down and smooth it out,” to the current iteration of modular, high-capacity models with shorter sights and longer grips that are too big for your pocket but too small for your duty belt.

But there’s one pistol platform that never really fit in with the slick carry gun crowd — the 19/2011 genre of pistols. It’s not that these guns are strangers to the concealed carry role. In fact, Rock Island Arsenal devised the “General Officer’s Model Pistol” in the early 1970s.

This was a junior-sized variant of the 1911A1 with a 4.25-inch barrel, similar in form factor to the Colt Commander. Shortly after this, Detonics released their 3.5-inch Combat Master. In the mid-1980s, Colt followed suit with the Officer’s ACP, sharing that 3.5-inch barrel length.

Unfortunately, the Officer’s ACP quickly gained a reputation for being very snappy and not very reliable. Compared to modern striker-fired pistols, the 19/2011’s action is a little more complex, and cramming all those parts into such a restricted living space tends to create issues.

Since then, a number of companies have released 3.5- and even 3-inch 19/2011-style pistols in both single- and double-stack configurations. As a whole, they’ve seen mixed results over the years, but conventional wisdom has held that, once you shrink the 19/2011 operating system below 4 inches, performance takes a nose-dive.

Enter the new Staccato CS. Staccato has spent the last several years laboring to make the double-stack 2011 — once solely considered to be a rich man’s gamer gun — both ruggedized and accessible to the masses.

The team at Staccato tells us that their pistols are now approved for duty use by more than 700 law enforcement agencies across the country, no small feat considering that the first-generation Staccato P launch was covered in these pages less than five years ago. Since then, they’ve brought an entire line of 2011s to market for duty, carry, and competition use.

The most diminutive of those was the single-stack Staccato C, with a 3.9-inch barrel, which was released in tandem with the C2, a double-stack model of the same length that could accept the entire range of full-size 2011 magazines from abbreviated 16-rounders all the way up to 26-round “happy sticks.” Certainly short enough for a carry holster, both the C and C2 still nicked the edge of that unspoken 4-inch minimum length for reliability and smooth operation.

The Staccato C was discontinued from production in late 2022. We heard rumors of this in advance, with whispers that its replacement would be a new, even-shorter double-stack model. Admittedly, we were wary of the swap. We really enjoyed the slimmer, single-stack profile of the C, finding that the “Officer Double Stack” grip on the C2 was a little too wide for us to carry without a sport coat or sweatshirt to cover it up.

We were also keenly aware of the functional issues that could arise from shrinking a 2011 to the forbidden length. The bottom line is that we expected a sawed-off C2 and were skeptical of that concept’s merit. Then, we got our hands on the CS. It was explained to us at unveiling time that the CS includes several proprietary internal and external design changes.

After getting up-close and personal with it, the Staccato CS has not only transcended our previously held notions about 3.5-inch 19/2011 pistols, but recaptured our interest in the evolution of the 2011 as a platform.

SKIN DEEP

For the uninitiated, 2011s consist of three main parts: the polymer grip module, the metal frame (dust cover, rails, skeleton for the grip, and some other parts), and the upper half — the slide and everything inside it. These pieces aren’t plug-and-play across sizes and models, though gunsmiths and enthusiastic tinkerers have managed to find some combinations that work between existing Staccato variants.

Both the grip module and frame on the CS are completely different from any existing Staccato. We’ll talk more about the frame shortly, but the grip circumference is significantly reduced compared to previous models.

They also toned down the texture a little. If you’re familiar with the wraparound “star stamp” texture on larger Staccatos, you’ll know it’s a good aggressive treatment for hard shooting, but less optimal for against-the-body carry. By contrast, the CS grip sports a fine-grit sandy texture with more refined contours.

That grip is designed around a new magazine. There’s good news and bad news here. The bad news is, if you already have one or more full-size 2011s, those magazines won’t be cross compatible with the Staccato CS. With 2011 mag prices reaching well-north of $50 each, we understand if the idea of having to start a second mag collection to feed the CS might be disconcerting.

But these 16-round sticks are leaner, with an improved follower design to optimize feeding at the steeper angle required in short guns, and every CS pistol will ship with three of them in the case. Not only is this a general value-add, it’s also the typical number of mags required for a two- or three-day pistol class. In our mind, this is Staccato’s attempt to send potential buyers a message — the CS is a carry gun that’s meant to be shot as much as it’s carried.

To the same end, the CS also comes optics-ready, with a section of Picatinny rail on the dust cover for a carry light. In our testing, only two lights would fit properly on the Staccato CS light rail: SureFire’s XSC and Streamlight’s TLR-7 Sub. Since both lights are handgun-specific, make sure you pick up the 1913 rail version. None of the larger weapon lights we tried would fit.

BEAUTY ON THE INSIDE

While we appreciate the aesthetic and ergonomic updates, where the CS really makes its money is under the hood. Staccato has made some meaningful changes to the internal design, with the aim of amplifying all of the existing advantages of the 2011.

One of the most noticeable design changes is that the CS is Staccato’s first model to feature an external extractor. To 19/2011 purists, this may appear at first as a step backwards. Especially in the 1911 world, external extractors are sometimes considered a warning sign of mass-produced pistols that have not felt the gentle touch of gunsmith that all 1911s inherently require.

Sometimes they’re seen as a sign of laziness or lack of knowledge on how to properly tune a traditional extractor.

We think it’s safe to say that Staccato pistols aren’t built lazily or without knowledge of the platform. When talking with the Staccato team, they said the switch to external extractors was made for a couple of reasons. One was ease-of-maintenance for the armorers at those 700-plus professional agencies that authorize or issue Staccatos on a widespread basis, since the spring or even the entire extractor can be replaced without having to detail strip the slide.

The other is consistency. They can drop the same extractor, with the same matching spring, into each and every CS, as opposed to having to hand tune a traditional extractor, which introduces some element of human variance between pistols. They also tell us that even with zero tension (a round manually hung on the hook falls off), their external extractors pulled spent brass effectively and repeatedly during normal firing.

With Staccato’s hard focus on the LE duty market, refining their design to run under the worst possible conditions is an ever-present goal.

Once you get the slide off the gun, you’ll notice the CS also has continuous, full-length frame rails. Larger model Staccatos have interrupted frame rails, a requirement to accommodate their full-size double-stack magazines.

But with the narrower profile of the new CS magazines, full-length frame rails become possible again — a boon to slide/frame fit and accuracy. Staccato designers went one step further by cutting thin grooves on the inside of the rails to hold lubricant on the rails longer.

It was previously held wisdom that thinner lubricant was generally preferred by Staccato pistols, to permeate the tight slide/frame fit. The side effect of this tight fit is that lubricant can be pushed or worn off the rails more quickly and that built-up carbon doesn’t have anywhere else to go.

The new frame rails, in addition to lubricating grooves, also have small half-moon cuts on either end so that grit and debris can be pushed out of the rail grooves as the slide reciprocates.

How well does all this stuff work? Staccato tells us that all of their previous testing has yielded a rough bracket of 1,000 to 2,000 rounds before the slide loses lubrication and starts dragging on the frame rails from carbon buildup. With the new rails on the CS, pre-production test samples were able to run 3,000 to 4,000 rounds before those effects set in, since lubricant can remain on the rails longer and build-up can be “scrubbed out” more easily during the firing cycle.

While the CS’s short barrel is fluted, they’re applied sparingly and specifically. There are two longitudinal flutes applied at the 4- and 8-o’clock positions on the barrel. While they might not do much to reduce weight, their purpose is to act as a heat-release feature.

The shorter CS action, combined with increased amount of metal-to-metal contact between the barrel, slide, and frame, opens the door for rapid heating of the pistol during high volume shooting.

Much like the inclusion of three magazines, the design logic of including a couple barrel flutes points squarely to the notion of training with your carry pistol consistently and aggressively.

Finally, there were some changes made to the recoil system to optimize it for reliability in the shorter workspace of the CS frame. We do know it’s a toolless, multi-stage system with some similarity to previous designs, but Staccato was pretty tight-lipped on the specific changes made here. Regardless, we found the system to work consistently and effectively for managing recoil, even during sustained rapid-fire testing.

ROUNDS DOWNRANGE

Our very first rounds downrange on the CS were shot at Staccato’s live launch event, where they had several different courses of fire set up to highlight various aspects of the CS’s performance capability. We started on the long-range challenge, which had C-zone steel arrayed from 50 to 200 yards. In our first six shots fired through the CS, we scored hits on 50-, 75- and 100-yard steel. That set the tone for the remainder of our range testing.

Over the course of the following 500 to 700 rounds, we put the CS into as many hands as we could, including the range staff at our receiving FFL, several student athletes from the Wildgats Scholastic Shooting team at University of Arizona, and most of the RECOIL editorial team.

This subcompact powerhouse received universal high remarks and only suffered one stoppage — the result of a squib load while shooting some 147-grain subsonic rounds. Once we tapped the slug out of the chamber and reassembled the gun, it continued to run like a Swiss watch for the duration of our testing.

LOOSE BRASS

Staccato announced that the first CS pistols should be shipping to dealers by the end of 2022, so as you read this, you should be free to go pick one up, if the $2,499 MSRP doesn’t stop you from leaping off the couch.

The price of admission has never been low for 2011s. But it’s worth noting that a highly accurate, highly reliable Staccato costs about half of what it would have taken to get the same level of performance from a 2011 a few years ago. They also don’t require aftermarket assistance to live up to their potential.

SPECS:

Staccato CS

• Caliber: 9x19mm
• Capacity: 16+1
• Barrel Length: 3.5 inches
• Overall Length: 7.1 inches
• Weight: 22.7 ounces
• MSRP: $2,499

ACCESSORIES

• Optic: Holosun 507C $309
• Light: SureFire XSC $359
• Price as shown: $3,167

I have been hunting turkeys for 20 years now and I still have a lot to learn, but one thing I do know for sure is that turkey decoys have become a vital part of my turkey hunting success! No, you do not have to use a decoy to harvest a wild turkey, but I love to draw turkeys in close, see how they interact with the decoy and enjoy the show. The Avian X series of turkey decoys will do just that for you. I have been using Avians for the past several seasons and my harvest rate has taken a significant increase from where it was. There are many different types of decoy setups a hunter can use. Here are our 3 BEST Avian X decoy setups to help you be successful this spring!

1. Full Strut Tom/Laydown Hen Combo

This setup seems to be the most controversial of the three. Some hunters live & die by this setup and others are not fans of the full strut decoy, but if used properly and in the right situations, this is one of my favorite ways to hunt! The LCD or HDR Strutter decoy are both eye-catching and when used in open field settings can be seen from long distances. This scenario is perfect when you have observed aggressive gobbler behavior the in flock of turkeys you are hunting. Paired with the LCD Laydown Hen from Avian, this is a deadly combination. This breeding position is sure to trigger boss toms to come into the decoys for an action-packed hunt at close range.

2. Submissive Jake

If you are hesitant to put out a strutter decoy, then try a submissive jake setup. the LCD Quarter Strut Jake makes this setup attractive to both dominant and sub-dominant gobblers. This decoy option is 15 percent smaller than a real jake. When I pair it with any of the Avian X Hen decoys, it has proven time & time again to drive gobblers wild! This option is less risky if you are worried about spooking subordinate gobblers and running them off your property. I have found this option is most successful during the early part of season when turkeys are still establishing dominance & their pecking order!

3. Lone Hen

If I had to choose one setup to use for the rest of my hunting days, this would be it! I cannot tell you how many times I have pulled toms into range with this option. I am a conservative turkey hunter and if you want to use a decoy but are worried that a male decoy could do more harm than good, you can never go wrong with a lone feeding hen. Avian has both the LCD & HDR series versions of a feeding hen. A gobbling tom will come from hundreds of yards away to try and catch this lone hen’s attention. This feeding posture makes the hen look calm and content, which is always inviting to other turkeys. On many of my hunts, I have started with a lone feeding hen and ended up with a field full of turkeys in my lap. You can never go wrong with this one and it gets my best overall decoy setup!

Avian X has a great line of the most realistic turkey decoys on the market. Check them out today at avian-x.com!

Binocular Reviews Home > Thermal > Best Thermal Imaging Binoculars

It was not that long ago that you had to join the military or an elite police force in order to use any sort of thermal imaging device.

Thankfully for us, this relatively new night vision technology is now readily available to the general public and whilst for most people the prices cannot be regarded as cheap, but they continue to come down as the level of competition between the increasing number of brands who enter the NV market increases.

So only a few years ago your choice of thermal imaging binoculars and bi-oculars was extremely limited, but now there is a good selection to choose from and so I decided that it was high time to take a look at what is out there and compare some of the best.

Please note that in this guide I will be recommending both binoculars and bi-oculars and whilst technically different, I have grouped them together for convenience and to make it easier to compare:

Bi-ocular vs Binocular – What’s the difference?

One of the fist things you will notice when you start researching thermal optics where you can look through them with both eyes is that you are presented with both thermal bi-oculars and binoculars.

So what is the difference? Well a true thermal binocular has two objective lenses, that collect information from each of them, whilst a bi-ocular only has one objective lens, but has an eye-piece arrangement that allows you to look at the image it generates with both eyes.

These obviously both differ from thermal monoculars which only have one lens and you can only view the image with one eye.

The advantage of a true binocular is that with the same size lenses, it collects double the amount of information as a single lens this can lead to a higher quality image and better night vision. On top of this you get a better stereo effect for improve distance perception.

On the down side it costs more to make two lenses, which can in turn, but not always lead to a more expensive product. Binoculars are also often a little heavier as well.

The advantage of a bi-ocular over a monocular is that like a true binocular, it is much easier to see and use with both eyes and you get a much better, more immersive experience.

Ok, so now that we have that out of the way, lets get down to the selections:

The Best? My choices as to what I believe are the top thermal vision binoculars for 2024 are based not only on the specifications and features, but I also took into consideration how much the unit costs.

It would be easy to say that a product with all the top features and latest components is the best and you maybe right. But they won’t necessarily be affordable or good value.

So I guess strictly speaking these are actually my pics of the best thermal binoculars for the money:

First up is the very impressive and only true thermal vision binoculars on the list, the ATN BinoX-THD series:

Next is the BHS-X Command Thermal Bi-ocular from FLIR.

Initially I was going to select their more popular model within this price range, the FLIR Scout BTS-X Pro, however I noticed that the BHS-X has number of better features, including a higher frame rate (30 Hz / 8 Hz vs 7Hz):

Third on my list of contenders to the best value thermal binoculars is another bi-ocular, the Armasight Helios 336 3-12×42:

Conclusion

At the moment and at the current price levels, I find it hard to look at anything past the ATN BinoX-THD.

A true binocular with more and better features and at a price that matches or beats all of the competition and which is why it is my choice as the best thermal binoculars for the money no question.

I would love to know your thoughts and which other devices I should take a look at and consider adding to this list. You can contact me via the link at the foot of this page.

Alternative Options

If your available budget does not quite extend out to affording a thermal binocular, you do still have a number of excellent options to explore:

• Best Thermal Monoculars under $600

Dusting clay pigeons is a great way to spend time with your shooting buddies.

Most ranges probably have a trap range, a skeet range and maybe even a sporting clays set-up of some sort. But what about the casual day out at your backyard range? How do you get those clay pigeons sailing through the air so you can smoke them?

Today we’ll take a look at some options that will allow you and your shooting buds to set up a fun clays range for the afternoon.

Types of Throwers

There are really two main types of throwers available. Manual and automatic.

The manual throwers can be as simple as this MTM Clay Target Thrower. If you practice a bit and have someone with a decent arm, this option will work. However, for a better shooting experience let’s stick to the throwers with a spring activated throwing arm.

Manual throwers are classified as “full-cock” or “3/4-cock” mechanisms. The full-cock machines mean you have to manually pull the lever back to reset it against the full force of the spring.

On the other hand, the 3/4-cock machines have a gear or clutch mechanism that only lets the arm travel in one direction and the momentum of the arm partially cocks the machine so you have much less effort required to reset the machine.

Check out this video from Do All Outdoors showing how easy the 3/4-cock traps are to reset.

Got all that? Now we’ll go into the best clay throwers.

1. Do All Outdoors – Backyard Clayhawk 3/4-Cock Trap

This trap is a great entry level 3/4-cock thrower. It has a tripod-type base that can be staked to the ground or mounted on a piece of plywood something else to make it more stable.

The trap can launch clays up to 70 yards and is adjustable up and down and side to side. It can also be configured to launch rabbit targets. These are meant to mimic a bouncing, running rabbit and roll on their edge along the ground.

2. Trius One-Step Trap

If you can’t talk someone into some range time, the One-Step allows the shooter to launch clays and shoot by themselves. This is a full-cock thrower, so the reset effort is a bit more.

However, you can load singles or doubles and also launch high-angle clays. To launch the bird simply step on the lever to release the throwing arm.

3. Do All Full-Cock Competitor Trap

For $29 you can hardly go wrong with this basic trap. The trap allows you to launch singles, stacked doubles and or side-by-side doubles. Clays can be launched up to 55 yards with this little machine. I borrowed my brother-in-law’s Competitor to teach my nephew the basics of shotgun shooting.

By easing up the spring tension a bit you can slow the targets down and allow them to “float” a bit and get new shooters into the groove and learning how to engage moving targets. A great entry level trap.

Note: this trap needs to be staked securely or mounted to something heavy so it doesn’t jump around too much.

Automatic Throwers

When you’re ready to spend more time on the range and want speed up your shooting it’s time to look at getting an automatic trap. These traps will generally be powered by a 12-volt battery and allow you to load 50 or more clay targets in the magazine.

The trap is released remotely by a wired switch or a wireless set-up depending on the model. Most of the remote switches are designed to be foot operated so you can launch targets when shooting by yourself.

The coolest thing about automatic traps is that they are available with options that move side-to-side, up and down or both so you never know exactly how the target will be launched!

4. Champion WheelyBird 2.0

The WheelyBird 2.0 is the upgraded model of the WheelyBird – and the upgrades are nice! The cycle time is only 1.75 seconds and there is now a wireless remote and a foot pedal to allow for more variation and shooting angles.

Best of all, the WheelyBird 2.0 can launch targets up to 75 yards.

5. Do-All Outdoors Fowl Play Automatic Clay Pigeon Skeet Thrower Trap

The Fowl Play trap has a lot of great features for practicing your wing shooting skills. The trap will throw targets up to 55 yards and can be adjusted from 5 to 35 degrees of elevation.

To really add some challenge to your practice just bolt on the Adjustable Wobbler Kit. The Wobbler allows targets to launch from random left to right angles as well as changing the elevation. The Fowl Play trap comes with a 25 foot wired foot pedal, but a wireless upgrade is available.

This is a great thrower, to begin with, and the optional upgrades allow you to continue to improve over time.

What’s your take on it?

Closing Thoughts

If you are an aspiring wing-shooter having your own trap makes a lot of sense. As long as you have a safe area to practice these traps allow you to shoot anytime you want and will likely save you a fair amount of money over time.

If I were to purchase a manual trap today I’d definitely be looking at 3/4-cock models because of their ease of resetting.

I really like the Fowl Play automatic thrower from Do-All Outdoors because as a base model you get everything you need plus the option to upgrade and continue challenging your shooting abilities.

No matter which one you choose, you’re sure to have a blast every time the shooter yells “Pull!”.

Want more shotguns in your life? Check out our 5 Best Home-Defense Tactical Shotguns!

Do you shoot trap? What’s your favorite shotgun? Let us know in the comments! Then check out our Best Trap, Skeep, & Clay Shotguns.

There’s no doubt about Gaston Glock’s pistol, it’s a good gun.

But can it be better?

Absolutely.

One of the most obvious improvements would be an upgraded trigger system. There are roughly a million different upgrades for the trigger out there…so how do you choose?

That’s where we come in…we’ve bought, used, and tested the most popular triggers over thousands of rounds.

Obligatory disclaimer that you should have a qualified gunsmith install and test all this stuff.

THE QUICK LIST

Stock Glock with 25 Cent Trigger Job & 3.5 lb Connector

Let’s establish a baseline trigger.

Many will say to get a better Glock trigger, you just have to shoot it. And they are right.

Thousands and thousands of rounds (or dry-fire) will polish up the internals and make the trigger much better. Not custom 1911 level…but better than when you bought it.

We cover how to do the infamous Glock 25 Cent Trigger Job with some polishing compound and Dremel.

Another affordable upgrade I do is upgrading the stock 5 lb connector with a Lone Wolf or Ghost 3.5 lb connector. If you built a Polymer80 Glock with a Lone Wolf frame kit…you already have the 3.5 lb connector.

Doing both in my G19 brings the trigger pull down from around 6 lb 6 oz to 5 lb 4 oz and makes it much crisper and with a smoother reset. Perfect for general purpose and maintaining the stock safeties.

Here’s a quick video on the first pull and reset so we have a baseline for the others.

Perfectly manageable, but still room for improvement!

Best Glock Triggers

1. Apex Tactical Glock Enhancement Trigger

Apex is well known for improving the turd of a trigger that comes on Smith and Wesson M&Ps, especially the first models that hit the streets. Obviously, they’ve expanded, or they wouldn’t be on this list.

Apex’s Glock Enhancement Trigger came out a few years ago and is one of the most affordable drop-in trigger systems.

When I say drop-in trigger…I mean it.

It’s a self-contained system with a trigger, trigger bar, and disconnector all built together. You remove your standard Glock guts and fill in the blank. It’s a very simple installation process and very convenient.

The Apex trigger gives you a quick stop initially, so you know when to ease and squeeze the trigger. There’s some minor pull before a clean break.

Also, a much shorter reset that’s followed by a similar pull and clean break again.

Red not doing it for you…they have purple and black too.

One big difference is the flat-faced trigger that still maintains the safety features of the standard Glock. I definitely like flat-faced triggers after using the Apex a bunch. It’s also a little meatier than the other triggers, which I like.

You can combine upgrades with the Zev Competition Spring kit, which I heavily recommend. With it and a polish job…my trigger pull is 5 lb 7 oz and much smoother.

However, I found with mine that I got light primer strikes with the use of the reduced weight striker spring. So be sure to test.

If that happens to you…you might need the Zev Skeletonized Striker ($79) to take full advantage of the springs.

The Apex Glock trigger is my pick for best bang-for-the-buck since it looks cool, is reliable, improves upon the stock trigger, and is priced right.

What’s your take on the Apex trigger? Rate it below.

2. Velocity Trigger

This Velocity Trigger I got sent for testing, and I put it in a new Polymer 80 build with a SeeAll Sight and matching gold Faxon Barrel.

It’s much thinner than the Apex or stock Glock trigger. The flat-faced trigger is also ridged for your finger’s pleasure with a lower-activating safety.

With stock springs and only a 3.5 connector, I was getting 4 lb 12 oz. With the competition spring kit…it should go down some more.

However…one big thing I didn’t like was that in my P80 build and my style of pressing the trigger (pretty high up with thin fingers)…many times, the “safe-action” trigger wouldn’t engage. And I’d be left with no PEW.

Whatever at the range…annoying at a competition…but potentially deadly in a real-life encounter. Not that I would recommend having anything modified on your gun for self-defense.

Otherwise, the trigger was great…longer pull after the initial stop and a nice click.

I would recommend for competition/range if you’re finger placement is usually on the lower half of the trigger or if you have thicker fingers than I do.

3. Overwatch Precision Trigger

The Overwatch Precision is from another P80 build. It also has the competition spring kit.

With everything…I get a super soft 2 lb 12 oz trigger pull. However…it’s pretty spongy when compared to the other triggers. Nice reset, though.

But…runs into the same safety reset problem as with the Velocity (so make sure you press lower or have thicker fingers).

My pick if you really want a light trigger pull throughout. I personally prefer less spongy (even at the expense of pull-weight), so this is my least favorite trigger out of all the series.

4. Zev Fulcrum Ultimate Trigger

My favorite trigger that lives in my G34 for competition shooting. What I’ve shot the most besides stock Glock triggers.

It breaks the cleanest without a lot of pre-travel and no mushiness. Combined with a little 25-cent trigger job polishing and the lightest springs…it comes in at under 3 lb 10 oz.

It’s not much to look at when installed…but the kit comes with an entirely new trigger assembly, lightened springs, and lightened striker (or else sometimes, when you only change springs, you get light primer strikes).

Plus…adjustable pre-travel and over-travel to get YOUR perfect trigger pull. This all comes at a price, though!

5. Tyrant CNC ITTS Trigger

Want a nicer-looking trigger but don’t want to change your trigger pull?

You can check out the Tyrant CNC ITTS Trigger, which replaces the trigger shoe with something purrty.

Easy enough to install with instructions right here.

It keeps your original trigger pull for safety reasons but makes your Glock look a whole lot better!

And while it doesn’t change the performance of the pull, that machined aluminum sure does feel nice. They come in different color combinations too!

6. Timney Alpha Glock 5

First off, I like the Gen 5 Glock trigger and consider it to be a significant improvement over previous generations.

Pressing back on the trigger, it travels back a few millimeters with minor resistance before stopping at a pretty well-defined wall. Pushing beyond this, the trigger breaks crisply at an average of around 4 pounds on my Lyman Digital Gauge.

Reset occurs after a slight release and is both audible and tactile. It’s a great trigger for a striker-fired gun, and I have definitely gotten used to it.

Given Timney’s overall reputation in triggers, I was excited to try the Alpha Glock 5. So I cracked open the package and started putting it in.

Installation was a little challenging due to the small parts, but the instructions were detailed and included good photos. Then, the trigger return spring has to be compressed on the inside of the locking block while installing the locking block.

After installing, I noticed the surface of the all-aluminum trigger shoe was smoother, and the interface with the safety bar in the trigger was also smoother.

The pull weight felt lighter, and I confirmed this on the gauge at an average of 2.5 pounds.

During press, the previously defined wall before break felt softer. And finally, trigger reset felt a bit longer to reach but was still audible and tactile.

Out at the range, the trigger truly shines with a performance you soon become accustomed to and can repeat easily. It’s a great upgrade for around $150.

Honorable Mentions

There are a lot of Glock triggers. Here are some honorable mentions:

• Agency Arms ($160): Pretty good as well…but I’d still take the Apex with the spring kit. Personal preference, though…tons of people love it.
• Lone Wolf Adjustable ($75): The P80 kit trigger is actually pretty good…and this adjustable upgrade is not too shabby either.
• CMC Trigger ($170): Another popular one, but was meh to me when I tried it.

Final Thoughts

We can all agree that sometimes swapping out a Glock factory trigger for something a little nicer can make all the difference when it comes to shooting.

And hopefully, we’ve given you some options to kick your Glock up a notch.

How did we do…what other triggers did we miss that we can test for the next update? Let us know. For a perfect trigger tune-up, make sure to grab a trigger pull gauge. We have our recommendations here!