Firearms are essential pieces of equipment in most American households. Unfortunately, crime rates are through the roof and people have never been more concerned for their safety. By virtue of reading this post then it’s highly likely you yourself are a gun owner.

Unfortunately, a lot of people have no idea what to do with their guns (or how to improve them and make them more efficient) beyond storing them in cases and using them in emergencies. In this post, you will learn about the kind of accessories you should fit to your firearms to make them better.

Laser Sight

Laser sights aren’t exactly common accessories, but they are highly useful. If you are the owner of a rifle like the AR-15 then a red dot sight could come in very handy. If you do plan on investing in such an accessory, you need to make sure that you read an AR15 red dot sight guide so that you can use yours more effectively. A lot of people make the mistake of thinking that they can just fit laser sights, and they do not need to perform research and learn how to use them. Not using one’s laser sight correctly could lead to a reduction in their performance and when it comes to actually using one’s gun, failure. Try to find the most affordable but likewise, quality laser sight that you can for your weapon as your gun’s accessories need to be the best of the best.

Flashlights

Typically, flashlights are only fitted to the weapons of military personnel and the police. However, there is nothing stopping you from fitting one onto your weapon. That being said as flashlights can be heavy and can obstruct movement, you should only fit one to your gun if it is really necessary for you to do so. If it is not necessary then you should not waste your time. Find the brightest flashlight that you can, so you can make the most out of it. The brighter a flashlight is, the more useful it is going to be.

Holster

Holsters are great accessories if your firearm of choice is a pistol or handgun. Having a holster means that you will be able to carry your weapon around with you. Before investing in a holster and then using it to carry your gun, make sure it is legal in your state for you to do so. In some states, people can openly carry their guns and in others, they can carry them concealed, in a holster. In some, however, gun owners can do neither. Being caught with a weapon in a public place, licensed or not, is a criminal offense in some places.

Sling

A sling is essentially just a holster for larger guns, like rifles. If you do own an AR-15 as mentioned earlier then it’s a good idea to invest in a sling. Having a sling means that you will be able to carry your weapon around with you. Again you do need to find out what your state’s specific rules are relative to the carrying of weapons in public. If you are not allowed to carry any guns in public then carrying an AR-15 is bound to get you into a lot of trouble since many states are calling specifically for that gun’s banning.

Silencer

A silencer isn’t an accessory you really need, but it can be one that is fun to own. A lot of people have this idea in their heads about silencers that they completely silence shots, but this is not true. They just muffle them. Silencers are extremely loud when they are used which means that they are not ideal for concealing the sound of gunshots completely. Even so, a lot of people use them when they are hunting and if you are a hunter, a silencer is one of the best weapons that you can invest in.

Headphones

Finally, make sure that you have headphones if you are going hunting or plan on attending a shooting range. Do not make the mistake of using your firearm without them. For ears unfamiliar with the sound of gunshots, headphones can save them from bursting. If you have not been in close proximity to gunfire before and use a weapon, the chances are your eardrums will burst, which can be excruciatingly painful. Headphones are not that expensive and make for a great investment for all firearms owners, casual or professional.

If you plan on buying a gun then be sure to invest in at least some of the accessories that have been listed here in this post. They will prove to be very handy and will help you to use your weapon more effectively. Most of these accessories are widely available and very affordable.

Introduction

Sharpshooting, a skillful and precision-driven sport, has gained immense popularity among shooting enthusiasts. At the heart of this thrilling activity lies the essence of accuracy and efficiency. Firebird Targets, a revolutionary addition to the sharpshooting world, have redefined the way shooters engage with their targets. In this article, we delve into how Firebird Targets significantly enhance the experience and skills of sharpshooters, with a particular focus on airguns, including the more powerful big bore air guns.

What are Firebird Targets?

Firebird Targets are not just a modern innovation in shooting sports; they are a game-changer. These targets, distinct in their design, incorporate a reactive substance that ignites with a bright flash and a loud bang upon impact. This reaction is more than just visually stimulating—it’s a direct, immediate indicator of a successful hit. The design of Firebird Targets is a blend of advanced materials and chemistry, ensuring that the ignition is safe and controlled. These targets are suitable for a variety of shooting environments, from controlled ranges to open outdoor settings, making them versatile for different shooting disciplines.

The Advantages of Using Firebird Targets with Airguns

The use of Firebird Targets with airgun, especially in precision shooting, brings a multitude of advantages:

• Enhanced Precision and Accuracy: The immediate feedback from Firebird Targets is a boon for precision shooters. It enables shooters to see and hear their success instantly, which is crucial for fine-tuning shooting skills.
• Training Efficiency: In training scenarios, this immediate feedback means less time spent checking targets and more time focused on shooting practice.
• Safety and Environmental Benefits: Beyond the thrill and training benefits, Firebird Targets are designed with safety as a priority. They are environmentally friendly, reducing the waste often associated with traditional paper or metal targets.

The Synergy between Big Bore Air Guns and Firebird Targets

When combined with big bore air guns, Firebird Target offers a unique and enhanced shooting experience. Big bore air guns, known for their significant power and larger caliber projectiles, are particularly well-suited for use with Firebird Targets. The high-powered impact of these airguns ensures a complete and spectacular reaction from the targets, providing an intense and satisfying experience for the shooter.

• Maximizing the Shooting Experience: The pairing of big bore air guns with Firebird Targets brings a new level of excitement to shooting practices. The visual and auditory feedback from the targets is amplified, making every shot feel impactful and rewarding.
• Skill Development and Training: For those practicing precision shooting, the combination of these airguns and targets provides an excellent platform for skill enhancement. The high-caliber impact offers a realistic and challenging environment for shooters to refine their accuracy and control.
• Real-World Applications: This pairing is also beneficial for hunters and tactical shooters who use big bore airguns. It offers a realistic training environment, replicating the conditions and feedback they would experience in real-world scenarios.

Practical Tips for Using Firebird Targets with Airguns

Optimizing the use of Firebird Targets with airguns involves several key considerations:

• Target Placement and Distance: Correct placement of Firebird Targets is crucial for safe and effective shooting. Consider the range and power of the airgun when determining the distance and arrangement of the targets.
• Target Maintenance and Longevity: While Firebird Targets are designed for durability, proper handling and storage will extend their life. Keep them in a cool, dry place when not in use.
• Shooting Techniques and Safety: Regardless of experience level, it’s important to prioritize safety when using these targets. This includes wearing appropriate protective gear and following standard shooting safety protocols. Additionally, shooters should focus on honing their shooting techniques to fully capitalize on the benefits of Firebird Targets.

Conclusion

The integration of Firebird Targets in sharpshooting has not just been a technological leap; it has been a transformation in the way we approach and understand precision shooting. These targets, with their instant feedback mechanism, have the potential to revolutionize training methods, making learning and improvement more accessible and efficient for shooters of all skill levels. The compatibility of these targets with airguns, particularly big bore air guns, further enhances their utility, providing an unmatched experience that is both thrilling and beneficial for skill development. As we look towards the future of sharpshooting, it is evident that innovations like Firebird Targets will continue to shape and evolve the sport. For enthusiasts, professionals, and novices alike, embracing these advancements means not only enjoying a more engaging shooting experience but also stepping into a new era of precision and excellence in the sport of sharpshooting.

If you’re new to airsoft, the different ammo types on the market can be confusing.

Are you choosing the right BB weight for your gun?

Does the size of the BB matter?

Will your ammo selection impact performance and gameplay?

We’ve tried and tested every type of airsoft ammo on the market. This guide will answer your questions about BB colors, sizes, materials, and, more importantly, which is the best ammo for you.

Size

There are three size variations of airsoft BB: 4.5mm, 6mm, and 8mm in diameter. The most common size is 6mm. This is because most airsoft guns are manufactured to accept this pellet size.

Before buying airsoft ammunition, ensure your rifle is designed to accept 6mm BBs. Most gas-powered airsoft guns (GBB), Co2 pistols, and spring-powered guns will fire 6mm rounds.

8mm BBs are less common, but players can modify their gun barrels to shoot this larger size of ammo. However, based on feedback from the airsoft community, 8mm BBs are less efficient than 6mm BBs due to their larger surface area and air resistance.

Wind and spin from your guns’ hop-up unit can create poor accuracy.

Weight

The most commonly used weight of airsoft BB is 0.20g. But depending on the FPS of your airsoft gun, you can choose a heavier weight, such as 0.25g or 0.28g. The weight of your BB can influence trajectory, energy, and velocity (force).

You can fire a heavier-weight BB from weapons at a much higher rate. Your gun’s barrel will influence your shots’ performance and overall accuracy.

Depending on your play style, the type of rifle you have, and the different kinds of environments will decide what weight will be best for you.

Keep in mind that an airsoft gun and a BB gun are different. There is 4.5mm metal ammunition available, but these are not safe to use in airsoft.

You’ll have to consider your gun’s performance before you up which ammo weight you use. If your rifle’s internal parts aren’t powerful enough to support moving from a 0.20g to a 0.28g, it will impact how far you can shoot.

Here’s a list of all airsoft BB weights:

• 0.12g
• 0.20g
• 0.22g
• 0.25g
• 0.28g
• 0.30g
• 0.32g
• 0.36g
• 0.38g
• 0.40g

Most starter airsoft guns can support 0.20g out of the box. Remember, ensuring your gun’s FPS doesn’t mean you’re firing over the limit. The lighter the BB, the less it can travel over a distance.

But lighter BBs have less precision. As you’re shooting, you’ll notice your rounds become less accurate.

As you move from a beginner airsoft player to a more regular skirmisher, you might use 0.25g – 0.28g weights.

This slightly heavier weight will likely require upgrades to your rifle. Even though it’s only a few grams, it makes a big difference.

If you want to use the heaviest BBs (0.32g and above), your gun will need some serious performance upgrades. This type of BB is best suited for sniper rifles or DMRs due to the length of the barrel.

If you need clarification about the airsoft BB size, your gun allows, check for markings on the airsoft gun magazine or the handbook the manufacturer provides.

Note: the heavier the BB, the more likely it is to hurt if a player gets shot. Be conscious of your trigger discipline as you move up in weight.

Material variants

Airsoft BBs are made of plastic. There are both biodegradable and non-biodegradable options available on the market. Most brands produce high-quality BBs for both variants nowadays.

Most indoor airsoft venues will allow for non-biodegradable airsoft ammo.

This is because the BBs can be collected and disposed of properly. These non-biodegradable BBs are made of a plastic called Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene (or ABS for short).

However, outdoor venues such as urban sites will usually ask you to use biodegradable BBs (bio BBs). This is because they degrade over time and will not impact the environment.

They are a little more expensive, but keeping your local airsoft site environmentally friendly is worth it.

Biodegradable airsoft BBs are made of Polylactic Acids (PLA) products such as corn and starches.

As you can imagine, sweeping up 400,000 airsoft BBs at the end of the day isn’t possible (or fun).

Colors

Most airsoft BBs come in a standard white or a lighter color. The reason for this is that it improves the visibility of your shot. Shot placement and identifying your hits is much easier if the BB direction can be tracked through the air.

There are darker BB colors, such as dark green and dark blue. This naturally has an impact on visibility.

Darker BBs can sometimes be great for avoiding shot detection (i.e., opponents can’t see them coming), but they can create problems for you, too.

Tracer BBs

Tracer BBs have a luminescent coating that glows as they’re fired. Tracer BBs give you a significant advantage in indoor CQB environments where light is limited or, of course, for a night airsoft game.

For the luminescent coating to work on the BB, a tracer unit must be fitted to the end of your AEG. Your shots will then flash a cool green or red as they fly toward your opposition.

Tracers are more expensive than your standard non-glow pellets. But they’re a lot of fun and can help prevent cheat calling.

Airsoft ammo types FAQs

What ammo is used in airsoft?

Airsoft guns (sniper rifles, shotguns, pistols, and AEGs) all use BB or spherical airsoft pellets. Most commonly made out of plastic and come in the color white. The standard BB diameter is 6mm, and the most common weight is 0.20g.

What is the difference in airsoft ammo?

The main difference between airsoft ammo is size, weight, and color. The manufacturing process can differ between brands, too. Depending on the polishing process, the BB quality can vary.

This will impact performance, and your BBs will likely have imperfections if the polishing process is poor. Such as rough characteristics or small pieces of sharp plastic on the surface of the BB.

Do heavier BBs increase range?

Yes, heavier airsoft BBs travel further due to increased flight stability and path. The bigger the BB size and weight, the less likely it can be influenced by wind, rain, and other environmental elements.

Do heavier BBs hurt more?

Yes, heavier BBs hurt more. Their increased weight can result in more power and cause more damage to their intended target (i.e., other airsoft players). For safety reasons, heavier BBs are measured on a Joule’s energy chart to avoid serious injury (piercing the skin).

Is it okay to reuse BBs?

No, you can’t reuse airsoft BBs. Once they’re fired from your rifle, the integrity of the BB is compromised. In simple terms, the inside of the BB starts to crack. If you reuse BBs after they’re fired, they could shatter on the inside of your gun. You are ultimately damaging the internals of your weapon.

Above are some of the old school concrete block pits at Jackie Hite’s Bar-B-Q in Batesburg-Leesville, SC. Below are plans for building your own no-frills pit suitable for a butterflied 75 pound hog, enough to feed about 35 people. It is designed so it can be a temporary structure or you can make it permanent. If you cut the head and remove the trotters at the knees and elbows, you can fit a 100 pounder or more on this rig. But don’t throw away the head and trotters. Just place them on the stretcher next to the torso. If you plan on cooking larger hogs, you can scale this plan up. You must cook with indirect heat. Click here for instructions on how to prep and cook the hog.

Materials

• SIDES: 54 concrete blocks 16″ x 8″ x 8″ (actually 15.75 x 7.75 x 7.75″). This will get your hog 32 ” above the embers, plus a course to hold the lid. Cost about $54.
• LID: 4 x 8′ sheet of 1/4″ plywood, cut down to about 44 x 60″ for the lid. Note that Hite uses sheets of cardboard for his lids as seen in the photo above, but I strongly advise against this. He is a master of fire control, and if yours burn, they could ruin the hog. And then you have no lid. Cost about $10. Usually the lid will not be a tight fit. If it is you can crack it open with a stone or make a vent by cutting a hole in it.
• HEAT SHIELD: Half of a 4 x 8′ sheet of 1/4″ plywood cut down to 20 x 36″ for the optional heat shield. Cost about $10.
• PROTECTION: 2 rolls heavy duty aluminum foil. Cost about $30.
• COOKING GRATE: 4 lengths of 48″ each of 3/8″ rebar. You can use a sheet of expanded metal rather than rebar if you wish. Cost about $5 per 10′ bar, 3 bars needed.
• STRETCHER: Non-climbable uncoated fence wire or rabbit wire at least 14 gauge, 46 x 72″. Do not use galvanized metal because it can give off noxious gases. Cost about $30 for a 50′ roll.
• STRETCHER HANDLES: 2 boards 1″ x 2″ x 6′ each. Cost about $2.
• STRETCHER HANDLES: 100 bare wire loop ties, 6″ each. Cost about $2.50.
• DAMPERS: 2 pieces lightweight sheet metal, about 20″ x 10″ each or you can use sheet pans. They will go over the openings in the sides to help you control oxygen to the coals if it runs too hot. Cost about $15.

Optional

• More rebar to pound from the top down into the ground to prevent the blocks from shifting. Cost about $15.
• Mortar to lock the blocks permanently into place. Cost about $10.
• Lightweight sheet metal for the lid, about 44 x 60″. Cost about $30.
• Lightweight sheet metal for the heat shield, about 30 x 48″. Cost about $30.
• 20 bags (40 pounds each) premix concrete for a 3″ thick slab FOR THE BASE AND BOTTOM. Cost about $40.

Tools

• Fire extinguisher.
• Wire cutter.
• Level.
• Hack saw.
• Hammer.
• Chisel.
• Utility stapler and plenty of staples.
• Wheel barrow, steel drum, or charcoal grill to start coals.
• Shovel.
• Garden hose or buckets of water or fire extinguisher.
• Good digital oven thermometer.

About the pit

Keep the pit at least 10′ from buildings and overhanging trees in case there is a grease fire. Keep a fire extinguisher rated for grease on hand. Fire extinguishers rated ABC can handle most everything except combustible metals. Beware, they contain a yellow powder that can damage electrical devices.

Start by clearing a base that is 4′ x 5′ by removing grass and prepare an all dirt or sand base at least 2″ thick. You will need to discard some of it when you are done because fat and meat drippings may get in the dirt. The dogs will roll in it and it will attract insects, mice, you name it. If needed, you can buy sand at a hardware store. I recommend lining the pit with aluminum foil.

Make sure the ground is level. Stack the concrete blocks 4 rows high, 3 full lengths and then turn one block on each course, staggering the blocks so they overlap as in the illustration. Notice that I have left out a block on the head and tail side so you can add coals and wood and rake them around. Cover these wholes with a board and a concrete block when they are not in use.

Make notches in the blocks with a hammer and chisel deep enough to hold the rebar so the next course of blocks will lie flat on the course below. Put the rebar on top of the fourth course of blocks. Don’t put the top course of blocks on yet.

The stretcher

To carry the hog and hold it in place on the pit, you need to build a stretcher. It is two poles for the stretcher bearers on either side, and a wire mesh sling in between for the hog. Non-climbable fence wire is heavier gauge and sturdier than chicken wire. You can use chicken wire for but it would be a good idea to use two layers. Make sure the wire is not coated with plastic. For something more permanent, use heavy duty expanded metal mesh. Do not use galvanized, it can create toxins.

Make the sling of the wire wide enough to rest on the rebar and hang over the edges of the pit by at least 1′ on either side. Attach two 6′ lengths of 1″ x 2″ boards for handles with staples and reinforce them with the wire loop ties. Then lay another section of mesh over the top of the first and fasten it to one of the handles, but leave the other open. Attach a handle to the open edge. You then have a reversible stretcher so you can flip the hog.

About the heat shield

I specified a sheet of plywood cut down to 20 x 36″ for an optional heat shield. If you bank your coals to the sides and corners properly you may not need it, but I recommend you have it on hand in case something starts to burn or overcook. This goes on top of the rebar and beneath the stretcher to shield the hog from direct heat. This size leaves space between the shield and the inside of the pit so hot air can rise alongside the shield and bounce off the lid. You will remove it late in the cook when it is time to crisp the skin. Wrap it in aluminum foil and staple down the foil. Don’t worry, it won’t burn unless you have a grease fire because the pig-sitter fell asleep or spent too much time in the toilet. If the pit is to be a permanent structure, make your heat shield from sheet metal, preferably aluminum because it won’t rust.

The cover

Cover the bottom of the plywood lid with foil. If you wish, you can use a sheet metal top instead of plywood.

Other designs for whole hog cookers from readers

Here’s the “Hog Cabin” built by Jacob Hanson of Tucson, AZ. Notice the innovation : He used half width blocks along the sides and put scalloped garden edging to hold the rebar. He also put an access door with an angle iron header. The wood frame holds a removable pitched roof, not shown.

James Brownfield of Kansas City built this beauty from concrete blocks. On the left is the hog pit and on the right he tacked on a separate vertical smoker. The hog pit side is a little larger than my design: 66″ long (4 blocks), 47″ wide (3 blocks) and 35″ tall (4 blocks) with a 2″ top cap. The interior measures 52″ long by 32″ wide. The cooking grate is 20″ above the coals and he has another grate 10″ under the cooking grate on which he can cover with foil and/or cheap catering pans to catch the grease. Both grates are simply expanded metal that rest on rebar. There’s some pretty nifty metalwork for the pit top, chimney, doors, and smoker shelving. The whole shebang sits on a concrete slab he poured.

Carl Herbert built this pit. The insert shows the access door on the other side.

From Jim S. This guy built a simple quick and dirty pit, below.

David Wm. Reed of Texas A&M has a good article on roasting cochon au lait, French for suckling pig, and a novel design for a pig roaster with the hog hanging by his hind legs.

I don’t know how much you paid for your antique duck decoy, but you’re about to be frazzled by how much people have paid for them in the past.

These aren’t out-of-the-packaging duck decoys (and some are not even decoy ducks), but they all have one thing in common: they cost a ton of money.

Over the last few decades, we’ve seen some of the most expensive duck decoys ever sold, and the details are quite interesting.

Vintage duck decoys can be ridiculously expensive. Does this make them more usable or viable than inexpensive, brand-new models?

Not necessarily, but you have to understand that black duck hunting is a pastime. It’s a rite of passage for a lot of young men.

You incorporate it into your life, and other eccentric duck hunters with deep pockets will stop at nothing to claim some of the most coveted factory-made decoys in history.

If you’d like to see a graphical breakdown of expensive wooden decoys, we got you covered:

1. The Crowell Bundle

I’m calling it this because two decoys were sold together for a whopping $1,130,000.

On record, this is the most expensive decoy purchase to date, but it comes with some interesting and unique details.

If you didn’t know, A. Elmer Crowell was a Massachusetts native, who had an eye for carving.

Some people pick up carving vintage or whittling as a hobby, but this man did it so excessively that his work is still revered over a century later.

He began carving vintage and selling his decoys in 1912, up until his passing in 1952, and as we all know, dead artists can make a ton of money.

And that’s what it was: art. Crowell put so much detail into these decoys, that they were picked up by the Fine Arts of Boston (though the timeline is unclear).

They held onto these until their value escalated. In 2007, his pintail drake and Canada goose decoys sold as a bundle.

We know the amount, and the date, but the buyer went completely undisclosed.

The reason these were so expensive is that they were some of Crowell’s first documented decoys.

They were carved sometime around 1915-1917, shortly after he began carving and have held their aesthetics and shape for over a century.

It’s believed that this is because America’s history continues to go on and on. Even though we’re a relatively young country, our rich heritage becomes valuable at an accelerated rate.

It’s like having a piece of history, from your favorite thing, sitting right on a shelf somewhere.

We’re giving Crowell his dues here, and while he isn’t included further down the list since we’ve already mentioned him, it’s important to state that this 1.13 million dollar purchase for two decoys was actually part of a large sale of 31 Crowell decoys, which in total ended up costing about $7,500,000.

2. Red-Breasted Merganser Hen Carving, by Lothrop Holmes

Crowell has been the only one to fetch over a million for a decoy purchase, but that was a pair even then.

An inseparable pair, but more than just a single decoy.

The individual most expensive decoy actually belongs to Lothrop Holmes, but since it was still purchased for a lower denomination, it comes in at number two.

This wooden hen sold for an insane $856,000 and held a record as the most expensive decoy sale for quite some time.

Much like Crowell, Lothrop Holmes actually came from Massachusetts as well, where duck hunting was a common sport.

Lothrop didn’t start out with decoys; it was more of a side hobby that later turned into a career.

Holmes spent his time as a ship’s carpenter for years, which allowed him to grow his proficiency in woodworking.

I’m not mentioning the same creators over and over again, so for the sake of transparency, it’s also important to note that Lothrop’s Ruddy Turnstone sold for $470,000 back in 2000.

3. The Eider Drake Decoy On Monhegan Island

We’re still in New England guys, but this time we’re in Maine.

There’s a ton of mystery shrouding The Eider Drake because even to this day, I can’t credit the original manufacturer.

Truth is, nobody has a definitive answer on that, and we likely never will.

It’s a fetching decoy, but nothing like Crowell or Holmes could make, yet it still sold for a hefty price tag of $767,000 back in 2014. You may recognize it as being the center of the James McCleery collection until it was eventually sold.

Recent research points to a man by the name of Eben Weed being the original creator of this decoy, but some of the evidence is inconclusive.

4. Unattributed Slot Neck Canada Goose Decoy

Because most duck decoys of merit were made in the 1830s to the 1880s, documentation (especially for a hobby) was largely unavailable.

Much like The Eider Drake, this remains unattributed but without potential leads as well, really leaving us all in the dark.

This brought in $553,600 back in 2007 when it was sold by Guyette, Schmidt, and Deeter.

It’s fetching, and for its time, it shows a great level of attention to detail with the colors and shades.

5. The Wilson Merganser Drake Duck Decoy

Gus Wilson may not be the first name that comes to mind when you think of famous decoy designers, but he’s one of the most recent record-holders for duck decoy sales.

This decoy was purchased in 2017, whereas most of the others on this list were bought about a decade ago or longer.

Wilson’s decoy pulled in $330,000, partially because he didn’t make a lot of decoys.

Of the ones that he did make that we’re aware of, their beaks weren’t the best.

Many of them snapped off and were replaced, but this one hit such a high price point because the original beak is still completely intact.

6. The Lincoln Hisser

When it comes to expensive duck decoys, Joe Lincoln is a name that often comes up. He made one of the most realistic goose decoys out there, showing a Canada goose in mid-motion that really makes it look like they’re scurrying along the water while the decoy bobs.

It was the highest ticket item at an $800,000 auction, bringing in $299,000 individually, which greatly surpassed the average for the dozens of other items in the auction.

Joe Lincoln painted decoys well into his 70s and remains an underdog in the decoy world.

7. Graves Mallards

It’s nothing compared to some of these world-famous decoys, but the Graves Mallards brought in $218,500 at another G&S auction.

It was one of the largest amounts of money they made at their 2006 auction.

Bert Graves was a more recent carver than Crowell or Holmes because he made his last decoy in 1956.

For once, we’re not in New England with this origin story, either; Bert is actually from Peoria, IL, and has set the scene for high-quality duck decoys ever since.

8. The Blair Mallard

John Blair was another small-timer in the decoy world, but his ability to carve a fantastic mallard earned him a top spot in the record books.

This simple mallard has an excellent definition, which is part of the reason that it fetched $214,000 and is considered one of the most valuable decoys.

Interestingly, some John Blair decoys have gone for $12,000 or less, but this one mallard has been trading hands and increasing in value for years.

John Blair was a PA native and spent most of his time outdoors when he wasn’t carving duck decoys.

9. Thomas Chambers Simple Wood Duck

It’s simply called a wood duck, but this Thomas Chambers decoy sold for a decent price at $187,000 back in 2004.

Chambers is the only one on this list who wasn’t American-born. Instead, he hailed from Ontario, Canada.

Like many others on this list, he lived until the 1940s but didn’t enjoy much of his work being sold.

To date, he’s reined in close to seven figures from beyond the grave in duck decoy auction sales.

10. Cobb Brant Mallard

Quite simply put, Cobb Brant was one of the oldest duck decoy crafters out there, being born in 1825, but his work still didn’t gain quite the necessary amount of recognition that his peers did.

Still, he brought in $168,000 almost a century later for this single duck decoy.

There’s not a ton of information available on Brant. Though much of his earlier years aren’t recorded, he lived a simple life.

11. Bernie Madoff’s Decoy

The guy we all know and hate. Bernie Madoff might just go down as this century’s biggest American villain, but his decoy fetched a rather handsome amount of money during the auctioning of his estate.

While it’s nothing compared to Crowell, Madoff’s decoy sold $4,750 at auction.

However, as these terms are often interchangeable, it’s important to note that this decoy was actually a structure, not just a carving or decoy duck.