Fact checked by Steven Lines, lifelong Hunter, and Outdoorsman.

The elk (Cervus Canadensis) is one of the largest members of the deer family that you may encounter. The tracks and signs are similar to other deer, but a few features still set them apart. Learning to distinguish between very similar species can be tricky initially, but it will come with time.

The main difference between elk and moose tracks is their number. Usually, elk travel in a herd (large groups), while moose travel alone. Another feature that differentiates moose and elk is the shape of the toes.

It’s important to mention that you should check which animal you have a license for before pursuing the hunt. Moose (Alces Alces) and elk are two of the most prominent members of the deer family, so it is easy to tell them apart if you know what you need to look out for.

When you can learn how to identify the elk tracks and distinguish them from moose tracks, the chances of viewing and hunting this animal are much higher.

How to Identify Elk Tracks?

Elk are usually active at dusk and dawn, and they can be frequently seen feeding in prairies during the day. These animals can also be nocturnal. They inhabit woods and pastures. Elk are similar to moose and deer as they belong to one family, but their toes are much rounder and not as sharply tapered at the tips.

These are the main features to differentiate elk tracks from other animals. If the elk are galloping, the dewclaws may appear in the tracks.

Before learning to identify the elk track, it’s good to know that elk have cloven hooves. Deer tracks are smaller than elk tracks. Elk tracks are noticeably round. The length of the tracks is usually 4 inches long. Elk have two dewclaws on each foot that are situated higher on the leg. The tracks may also have prints from dewclaws if the animal was running.

Elk usually travel with a step distance of one and a half to three feet. Elk are social animals, which means they travel in big groups. That’s why you may usually find a mess of tracks left by multiple elk rather than clear tracks of a single animal.

There is a possibility that domesticated cattle left the tracks. This may concern you if you are informed that there are cattle in the area. Cattle tracks have a more circular appearance compared to elk tracks.

The widest point in elk trace is lower from the center, while cattle tracks have this point in the middle of the track. Adult cattle tracks are large and blocky and as well as quite distinct. But young cattle leave a track that is often very similar to what an adult elk can leave.

It’s recommended to look around for more distinctive tracks and possible cow chips or other characteristic features of elk tracks in those cases.

The spacing of the toes can also help you to identify elk. The elk most likely left the track if the toes are close at the back. Other animals, which tracks you may initially misidentify as elk, have evenly spaced toes. These animals include deer, moose, and cattle.

How to Identify Moose Tracks?

Measuring the size of the tracks will help you identify what animal is in the area. This is also relevant for moose, as their tracks are particularly long. Moose is the largest member of the deer family. Mature bull moose can make tracks that are at least 6 inches long. To compare, the tracks of cows are one inch shorter, and elk tracks are 2 inches shorter.

Elk tracks are 4 inches long, while deers are just 3 inches long. So if you see unknown large tracks, you’ll be easily able to tell that moose left them. Moose can create tracks that have a different shape than those that elk leave. Moose tracks are narrower than elk’s and heart-shaped.

Looking closely, you can also notice dewclaw imprints, which help determine which legs left certain prints. The dewclaws on the hind feet are in the direction of the animal’s travel. The front feet are pointing out to the sides.

Compared to deer tracks, moose leave deeper tracks than others due to the animal’s size and weight. In snow or soft soil, moose tracks may even look like holes in the ground.

It’s also interesting that you can even determine the moose’s age by its tracks. The shape of hooves can show you that. Younger bulls or female moose have pointy and sharp hooves, while older and mature bulls leave wider, heart-shaped prints. The distance between each print can also help you determine if it was left by moose or not.

An adult moose creates a stride that is 30-40 inches long. If the strides are smaller, then other animals in the area probably made them. If the track size fits the descriptions above, but the stride is much longer than 40 inches, then it’s a sign that the moose may have been running.

If the tracks are messy, or there’s a lot of upturned earth, it’s a sign of running moose. And lastly, the print itself can show you that moose made it if you know how the moose hooves are built. There should be two hooves and two smaller toes behind them.

What Is the Difference Between Tracking Elk and Tracking Moose?

Elk and moose both have very similar features. Elk and moose both have their antlers shed from November till March. Their tracks are also very similar. However, several key features make them easy to differentiate.

Moose have more heart-shaped hooves, while elk have more tooth-shaped, which makes their tracks different. Moose are much heavier, meaning their tracks are deeper. There are also other important features in tracks of moose and elk. For example, elk hooves have rounded toes, and each segment of the hoof is parallel to the other.

The number of tracks is also important, as it helps define what animal was on the trail. If you see hundreds of tracks on the trail, you will likely find the elk tracks as they travel in large groups. It’s a moose sign when you don’t see many tracks, as they travel alone or in small groups, such as a mother and her calf.

Last update on 2024-11-14 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API

Other Animals That Have Similar Tracks to Elk

Ungulate is a clade of primarily large mammals with hooves, and the members of this clade have similar tracks. There are two main groups of ungulates based on the shape of their toes. In one group, the members have toes that form heart-shaped tracks, while the other members have rounded toes.

Moose, deers, elk, bison, cattle, and cows are all ungulate members, meaning they share some similarities in their tracks. However, each animal has some unique features that help hunters see which animal left the tracks easily.

As a renowned outdoorsman and tracker, Tom Brown, Jr. said: “A track is a window to the past of an animal. Look at the ground as if it were a manuscript of the animal’s life.” So if you know what you’re looking for and know the characteristic features of elk’s tracks, you will have no problems identifying the tracks.

It can be pretty challenging to detect the prints of wild animals. This is because of their instinctive behavior. Reading the tracks is not easy as well. Because each situation during the bow hunt can be somewhat different, that’s why you must be prepared to use your intuition. In that way, you will be able to interpret what you see on the ground.

It would help if you understood that what you see in images and drawing online can be different from what you find outdoors. A track in the mud or wallow may look much different from one left in the dust or snow, even if the same wild animal has left them. Moreover, it’s essential to understand that animal tracks left in snow can change after the sun’s warmth distorts it.

Also, differences in tracks may appear if animals of different ages and sex leave them. There will be many cases when you may not identify the track on the ground, as no main characteristic features are present.

For example, the track doesn’t show all the toes. In this situation, it would be great to find other tracks on the trail or identify the possible direction where the animals went.

Steven Lines is a hunter and outdoorsman from Safford, Arizona, USA. Since he was a child, he has been hunting and fishing and has over 20 years of outdoor experience. Steven works as a hunting guide in Arizona during his spare time and runs a Youtube channel dedicated to sharing his outdoor adventures with others.

Sources

• “Moose track” by KatmaiNPS is marked with CC PDM 1.0
• https://www.livescience.com/54313-elk-facts.html
• https://www.eduscapes.com/nature/moose/index1.htm
• https://outdooraction.princeton.edu/nature/guide-animal-tracking

Ruger precision rifles are so versatile yet easily affordable that they make for a great choice for entry-level precision shooters. Because of their versatility, your scope choice will also differ based on your intended use.

For instance, for the Ruger Precision Rimfire .22lr where you’ll be doing mostly short-range shooting and plinking, a magnification range of 3-9x or 4-12x will be fine for you. On the other hand, scopes with magnifications in the range of 6-24x or 5-20x are often preferred for mid to long-range shooting when your RPR is chambered in .308 or 6mm Creedmoor.

But no money is ever wasted when invested in quality optics. We reviewed some of today’s best scopes for Ruger Precision Rifles that budget-conscious shooters will love to check out. Here comes our findings.

Our Reviewed Best Scopes for Ruger Precision Rifles

Vortex Optics 2-7×32 Crossfire II riflescope (Editor’s Choice)

The Ruger Precision Rifle is top-drawer stuff. The high-end rifle chassis is designed from the ground up. Chassis guns are those where the barrel and stock are bolted. A beauty like The Ruger Precision Rifle needs a perfect scope, one that delivers at extreme range accurately. The Ruger has a flattop profile that makes it pretty easy to mount a scope.

Crossfire II is a darn good choice. Coming from the reputable Vortex stable, this 2-7 X 32 scope is what you can score with at 1000 yards

With its multicoated lenses, and great waterproofing, this scope made of aircraft-grade aluminum is highly durable that is low weight. However it a Second Focal Plane scope.

What we liked and did not like:

• The turrets are adjustable, are capped, and present a low profile. But they are rather squishy and do not have audible clicks. The turrets track poorly and the maximum magnification is 12x because of this.
• We quite liked the BDC reticle. It is a great choice as you can extend the range without messing around without adjusting the turrets.
• Another bothersome on higher magnifications upwards of 7x is the eye box of the Crossfire II. It has to be exact to fully take in the sight picture. Furthermore, the edges of the glass get blurry.
• We found it pretty disadvantageous that the reticle is not illuminated.
• Our team pretty much liked the fast-focus eyepiece.

We decided to compare the performance of Crossfire II. So we lined it up with the similar priced Vortex Diamondback. The glass is a great deal clearer and the reticle crisper. The eye box for the Diamond is a lot more forgiving. When we tested them at dusk, the Diamondback proved to be brighter. The Diamondback also scored higher on turret adjustment with its clear clicks.

Specifications

Pros

• Affordable
• Illuminated and BDC reticle options
• Zero resettable turrets
• Vortex transferable lifetime warranty

Cons

• Glass not good enough with higher magnification
• Eye box inadequate on higher magnification
• Light transmission not so good in low light conditions.
• Turrets do not track well

Our Verdict

The Vortex Crossfire II is a budget scope. It can help in getting your hunting and range shooting done well without breaking the bank. We can say that it is an okay scope for entry-level. It is great value for money though.

Vortex Optics Diamondback Tactical First Focal Plane Riflescopes (Great Value)

The Diamondback Tactical is the ideal objective Vortex for the RPG. It is a First Focal Plane scope that promises superior performance and ensures that all the requirements of you – the user – are met. Made of premium materials, the Diamondback has great loadbearing capacity.

With this high-quality scope, downing prey at a distance can be quite accurate.

The reticle is an EBR-2C MOA. This primary and important feature is pretty effective in determining ranges, windage corrections, holdovers, and leads to moving targets. Laser etchings that boast ultra-precision on the glass that ensures MOA specs tolerances are kept to the minimum possible.

It is made of aircraft-grade aluminum that is hard anodized. Fog-proof, waterproof, and shock-free, this scope passes all checks with flying colors.

Other noteworthy features are the Precision- Force Spring system and the Precision Glide Erector system make it easier for the hunter.

• We find that the most awesome aspect of this scope is its optic system. The 6 – 24x magnification coupled with a 50 mm objective makes us sit up.
• Another huge plus we find is the sturdy construction and well-mounted turrets. When twisted into position are near impossible to dislodge even if you bump into things or move around in the undergrowth.
• We quite found the reticle crosshairs an optimum balance between precision aiming in poor light visibility. The windage reference dots on the droplines are a major improvement.
• This beauty is lightweight to boot.
• Care shows. It comes with both lens covers, a lens cloth, and a sunshade
• By far what appealed to us the most was their guarantee policy. Vortex products come with their VIP guarantee which is a Very Important Promise. It bypasses how it happened, whose fault, or where it was purchased. Vortex undertakes that if repair is not a viable option, they will replace it. No questions asked.

Specifications

Pros

• Has a 30 mm shock-proof tube
• Comes with a glass that is low-dispersion
• Reticle focusing is effortless

Cons

• Light may be lost at higher magnifications

Our Verdict

In one sentence, the Vortex Diamondback is a marvelous piece of work. Just what the doctor ordered to partner with the Ruger Professional Gun. Vector has once again furthered their credentials in the field of optics. And wonders, it is budget-friendly too. Their warranty offered speaks volumes about their confidence in this scope. We are truly enthralled with it.

CVLIFE Hunting Rifle Scope 6-24×50 (Budget Choice)

The CVLife 6-24×50 offers plenty of features for the price it comes at. The turrets are capped, are of solid construction, and easily adjustable. The zero holds well even after many shots.

Adjustments for elevation and windage are in 1/18 inch increments with every click at 100 yards. The illumination type of this scope is AOE(around the objective end) red and green.

It is made of high-strength aluminum alloy. The reticle is a red and green mildot with 5 levels of brightness controls. A parallax adjustment is not provided. The eyepiece has accurate dioptric adjustment.

The multicoated optics enhance picture quality. The coating is scratch proof and protects from dust, smudges, and other damage.

• We found that the adjustment range is overall sufficient but unfortunately the parallax adjustment is not provided.
• We also found the glass quality a bit lacking and not what more expensive scopes provide. However, we admit it’s better than what we expected.
• Another plus is that this scope is easily adjustable and once you have sighted it, hitting the target constantly is easy.
• The mounts are not a universal fit. They are for weaver dovetail and Picatinny rails. The provided manual is not very helpful so you have to play around to figure it out. The mount scopes provided are simply not great. You have to buy additional rings and mounts to do away with the problem.

Specifications

Pros

• Great for long-range shooting
• Easily adjustable
• Easily zeroed
• Satisfactory zoom quality

Cons

• Glass quality could be better
• Not suitable for all rifles

Our Verdict

The CVLIFE 6-24 x 50 is one of the best scopes for Ruger Precision rifles for long-range hunting and shooting with a solid construction. The adjustments are simple and easy. You will not be handicapped getting a shot at the target once you have zeroed the scope. This scope is suitable for use in low-light conditions. The optics on other similar scopes are better though but they cost a whale lot more.

Pinty 3-9X40 Red Green Rangefinder Illuminated Optical Rifle Scope

Pinty is an optics company that is situated in China. The scope rings can be easily fitted on any 20mm Picatinny or Weaver rails. The reticle type is the Rangefinder rather than a Mildot and is AOE red and green with 5 levels of brightness.

It is made of aerospace aluminum and is pretty sturdy and versatile. Lens covers are provided. Warranty conditions do not get a mention anywhere.

• One huge letdown is the lack of parallax adjustment. This boils down to efficient shooting within 100 yards. Beyond that, your estimate of drop distance comes into play.
• We found that the lenses could slip out of position darkening and blurring the objective.
• We did discover a rather simple way to zero. Spin the focus knob on the rear till the crosshairs are visible clearly and you are good to go. But this is an area the makers need to take a keen look at. If it can zero and hold it, we are looking at a deal changer.
• We dig the colored reticle that works superbly in low light conditions. Great value honestly.
• We were disappointed with the limited adjustment. The problem was with the crosshairs which hamper zeroing.
• Also, we were not impressed with the seals. They appeared somewhat flimsy. There is the danger of the nitrogen purging escaping, rendering the fog proofing and water-proofing appear dicey.
• The included rings are of poor quality.
• In its praise the build quality is sound.
• We also found that the Rangefinder capabilities could be better but it’s not a deal-breaker. The calculatable range hash marks provide an alternative.
• We loved the zoom feature. It worked pretty fine.

Specifications

Pros

• Relatively inexpensive
• Water and fog-proof
• Easy to mount
• Ideal illumination

Cons

• A bit on the heavier side
• Objective not adjustable

Our Verdict

Considering the price point, the Pinty appears to be of decent quality. However, we feel they may not last your entire shooting career. But then again there are few scopes, even expensive ones that may not last forever. We would welcome being more informative and come out with more details. Right now, it’s a bit sketchy and they need to be more forthcoming. A riflescope is not a toy. Hopefully, as more shooters use their scope and reviews pour in, they will get wiser. For now, have a blast on a budget.

Simmons 3-9x32mm .22 Waterproof Fogproof Matte Black Riflescope (511039)

The Simmons 3-9 x 32 .22 Mag is pretty suitable for small game hunting, varmint hunting, and target shooting. Nevertheless, the optics Simmons has put into the .22 has large-game optics into much-favored rimfire scope, the Mag .22.

This scope is far from cheap, ordinary, or flimsy. The body is constructed of one piece for unmatched durability under the most trying field conditions. It is still a budget scope but comes with a terrific booster- the lens coating that is HydoShield and can weather it all.

That’s not all. The eyepiece is Quick Target Acquisition with an eye relief of 3.75 inches for a swift and immediate sight picture. Make things a good deal comfy when out in the field, SureGrip adjustments can be used even with gloved hands.

The included rings are 1 inch with ? dovetail mounts that will fit most .22 rifle grooves.

• We found the reticle somewhat wanting. The reticle is what Simmons terms a Truplex. The crosshairs are thick and extend all the way to the edges of the field of view. The crosshairs thin out towards the center of the reticle without a stadia line or dots to figure out ballistic yardages. A big letdown.
• Another sore point with us is that the adjustments are somewhat non-responsive.
• The other thing that got us a bit disappointed was the lack of a parallax adjustment feature. However, there is a Matte Black and Silver finish in this line that does feature parallax adjustment by way of an objective that is adjustable.
• The Simmons .22 Mag is ultra-light which is a big winner.
• A big thumbs up to this feature-packed riflescope.

Specifications

Pros

• Affordable price
• Body of one-piece
• An eyepiece that is Quick Target Acquisition
• Reliable SureGrip
• Coating of HydroShield

Cons

• Issues with the reticle
• Issues with adjustment

Our Verdict

The Simmons .22 Mag riflescope hits the bullseye when it comes to the best scope for ruger precision rimfire 22. Simmons does offer what recreational hunters and shooters look for in a budget scope. Keeping it right on the money where the cost comes into play, and outperforming on quality are their hallmarks.

How to Find the Best Scopes for Ruger Precision Rifles?

1. Magnification

The right magnification is undoubtedly desirable for owning a profitable and perfect scope for the Ruger Precision Rifle. Excellent magnification translates into precise zooming in and out capabilities. Magnification plays a prime role in achieving your target with zero errors and zero difficulties.

A wider range of magnification provides a clear and crisp image of the object even when the range is far. A scope with adequate versatility can be used for both short and long-range shooting effectively.

Compare your options carefully and settle for the magnification called for in the situation. Initially, you need to figure out how to best use the optics system and you should make sure of the purpose of the scope. Don’t fall for the misconception that the widest magnification range is the most ideal to bag the target easily. Opting for wider magnification will result in blurry visuals.

In our experience, a magnification range of 12-18x gives a great field view and the right high elevation adjustment opportunity. This illustration can be of help.

And how much of objective diameter is required.

2. Distance

This factor is at the fore when looking for the best scope for Ruger Precision rifles. Depending on your shooting style, determine the average shooting distance first. Employing a short-range scope for a long-distance target will result in weak and blurred images that will leave you pretty much frustrated.

Mid-range shooting can be anything from 600 yards to 1500 yards. Over this range, we are looking at long-range. There are quite a few scopes in the market catering to short-range and mid-range.

You need to be a bit picky when it comes to a long-range scope. They are expensive but serve your purpose well.

3. Construction

The Ruger Precision Rifle calls for great scopes constructed of aircraft-grade aluminum. This ensures ruggedness. These scopes have to possess multiple standard proofs that ensure the scope’s capability to overcome adverse weather conditions and other trying external influences.

Performance and durability are furthered by reliable O-ring sealing and efficient gas purging. These features play an important role to detect targets without bothering about moisture and fogging issues.

4. Clarity and Glass Quality

Clarity, needless to say, is another crucial touchpoint when homing on that perfect scope for your Ruger Rifle. Obviously, if the clarity is missing in the sight or image, the entire effort put in to capture a target gets tossed out.

A clarity scope is one that will render strong and clear visuals even on max magnification. The resulting detailed imagery can help you shoot a flea off your prey. So choose wisely.

5. Multiproof Technology

All adventure aspects of a scope can be accomplished perfectly if good care has gone into the gas filling and purging as well as O-ring sealing. Multiproof in the scope is a measure of good O-sealing arrangements that ensure nitrogen or argon purging offers optimal protection and performance in different weather conditions.

6. Reticle Style

In the industry, the term “reticle” simply refers to the crosshairs. The design of reticles is for many purposes, such as general hunting and low-light shooting and everything in between. There are so many different types of reticles that it is impossible to cover all of them.

To name a few, there is the original reticle, the Bullet drop Compensation reticle, the Millidot Radian reticle, The MIl reticle, the Minute of Angle reticle, the illuminated reticle, and so on.

We are interested here in what the suitable reticles are for the Ruger Precision Rifle. The starting point is that they must be practical, uncomplicated, and convenient visually for tactical operations and long-range competitors. Our research puts the Vortex EBR-2 at the forefront.

The MOAR reticle is another held in much favor.

This reticle offers great precision at extreme ranges. It allows accurate range-finding and holdover estimations at the longest destinations.

Great for beginners

The three main reticle types

7. Turrets

The fundamental and important role of the turret is that it serves to initialize your scope to zero. This is the procedure to finetune your scope’s reticle adjustment so your rounds make an impact with the target bang on. The key to understanding your optics is in understanding your turrets.

Turrets are important as they define the accuracy of your scope. Just screwing up the turrets will result in zilch. There are 3 important things to look for in a reliable turret:

• Reliability
• An audible “click’ sound
• Repeatability means that the turret adjustment is immediate. This is the hallmark of a high-quality turret.

These, simply put are knobs for adjustments to your scope on the horizontal and vertical planes. Each adjustment or click is measured as a measure of MOA or MRAD. Let’s take a look at the different types of turrets:

Windage Turret- This aligns your scope’s aim from left to right.

Elevation Turret – This adjusts your scope’s aim from the top to the bottom.

Parallax Adjustment Turret- This kob eliminates parallax.

8. Ease of adjustment

The sight picture has to be pretty perfect before you fire that first shot. There are a lot of adjustments that have to be pat before you press that trigger.

• The reticle should be centered and upright first of all. We are looking for a crisp and clear image. Blacking or smudging at the ends needs to be symmetrical. If that is not the case, we do need to readjust.
• The next thing to have a look at is eye relief. Looking through the scope, it should be within 3-9 inches. If you are uncomfortable with how close the eyepiece is to your eye, try adding an inch more. You don’t want the recoil to give you a black eye.
• The final adjustments will come when you take that first shot. The bullet can hit a bit high or low than anticipated. If the bullet hits high, the reticle has to be adjusted slightly higher and vice-versa. Yes, you heard that right. It’s a hit-and-trial endeavor.
• Windage adjustments work the same way. If you score a hit to the left of the target, you want to adjust the reticle to the left.
• Zeroing in is the sum result of the above mentioned. Set up your rifle in a static, immovable position. Fire 3 shots.
• Check the results, make further adjustments to elevation and windage knobs till you score that perfect bullseye.
• You are up for business now.

9. Lens coating

Cutting to the chase, lens coatings are integral. They have to be foolproof. There are four basic ways this is done:

Coated- A single layer covers only one surface of the scope.

Fully-Coated- All the external glass is coated in a single layer.

Multicoated- Several layers coat one surface

Fully Multicoated- All the external glass on the scope is coated in several layers

10. Warranty and Budget

Buy once, cry once – the only thing you need to remember when setting up a budget for your rifles. For long-range shooting and hunting, you’ll need quality glasses, and they don’t come cheap. In fact, these types of optics often end up costing more than the firearm itself.

However, not everybody can afford the best scope for Ruger Precision rifles. That’s why most of our choices were made keeping the budget-conscious gun enthusiast in mind.

Scope care and maintenance tips

A well-designed riflescope is fog-proof and water-proof. A well-designed scope is made for taking a beating. They can sure deal with a little bit of dirt and grime. But what can harm them seriously are gun cleaning solvents and powders. These will wreak havoc and cause irreparable damage. The solution- quality lens caps.

Now some Dos and Don’ts

• Never touch your scope with your hands. This is a surefire way to mess things. Whenever there are smudges or dirt, we instinctively use our shirtsleeves to clear them off. Big, big mistake. You will scratch the lens. Use a microfiber cloth or a lens pen, please.
• You spent big bucks for your hunting rig. Just spend a few minutes after each outing cleaning up.
• Do not forget to examine the scope. Report any cracks or any external issues to the makers immediately. The equipment can fail so this correction/ repair/ replacement is imperative.
• How you stow away your scope is another vital action. Make sure it is well-wrapped in a solid scope cover and we are good.

FAQs

1. What magnification do I need for my Ruger Precision Rifle?

Ans: This mainly depends on your intended use. For long-range shooting, you’ll need a higher magnification scope such as a 5-25x or 6-24x. For closer range shooting or hunting, 1-6x or 2-10x will do.

2. How Much Should I Spend on a Scope for a Ruger Precision Rifle?

Ans: By current market estimates we are looking at anything from $800 to $1500. But then there is a 2 to 1 rule; if your gun costs $1000, you should spend $500 on the scope.

3. Should I use MOA or MIL?

Ans: Both MOA or MIL have their own place. Both are linear values to decide upon. There are no clear winners here. Shoot with whatever you are comfortable with.

4. How far can the Ruger precision rifle shoot?

Ans: Out of the box, it can easily touch the coveted 1000 meter mark. The current CEO of Ruger Professional Guns, Mike Fifer pegs it at 1600 meters. Why don’t you check it out yourself?

5. Do I need to use a specific size scope rings for the Ruger Precision Rifle?

Ans: The Ruger Precision Rifle usually uses 30mm scope rings but some models may require 34mm or other sizes depending on the scope and the rifle configuration.

6. Can I use a red dot sight on a Ruger Precision Rifle?

Ans: Yes, you can use a red dot sight on the Ruger Precision Rifle if you prefer a simple and lightweight sighting system. But since most people use this bolt-action rifle for long-range shooting, a red dot sight won’t do any good in long ranges.

Winchester’s Model 1873 lever action was the first truly successful high-capacity repeating rifle. Bugs that plagued the ancestral Henry Model 1860 and Winchester Model 1866 were largely eliminated in its design, and it quickly became the favorite of ranchers, cowboys, lawmen, and outlaws. During the half-century it was manufactured, just over 720,000 were produced.

Manufactured in 1889, the Model 1873 shown and reviewed here represents the most popular configuration—the “rifle” model with crescent buttplate and 24-inch octagonal barrel. Second in popularity was a carbine version with a 20-inch round barrel. There was a third standard type (“musket”) with a 30-inch barrel and full-length stock, but it made up only about five percent of total Model 1873 sales. In addition, many custom 1873s were built and shipped.

Chambered in various cartridges, ranging from .25-20 Winchester through .44-40 Winchester, the Model 1873 was really a pistol-caliber rifle. It did not compete with the big-bore single-shot rifles and lever actions favored by big-game hunters in the Rockies and on the buffalo ranges. High cartridge capacity, light recoil, and good-enough ballistic performance for use out to 100 yards or a bit more were the Model 1873’s forte.

Mechanicals

The Winchester 1873 loads through a gate in the right side panel of the action. Rounds are contained in a tubular magazine beneath the barrel and fed up into the chamber via a lifting-block arrangement that serves triple-duty as a magazine cutoff and as a moving, mechanical ejector. The slender bolt reciprocates rearward inside the top of the action, and its rearmost portion pushes the hammer back to fullcock when the lever is opened.

When the lever is worked, a simple hook-type extractor positioned at 12 o’clock in the boltface draws the empty cartridge case from the chamber. The bolt cocks the hammer, and the lifter brings a fresh cartridge into alignment with the chamber, boosting the empty cartridge above up and out of the ejection port. Bringing the lever briskly back into firing position runs the bolt forward, pushing the fresh cartridge into the chamber.

A trigger-cutoff-type safety is incorporated in the action, and the lever must be squeezed fully closed before the trigger can be pressed. To prevent the lever from inadvertently opening while in the field, a rotating catch is provided at the rear of the lever and may be rotated to secure it in the closed position. Another field-expedient feature is the sliding dust cover atop the action, which may be manually closed to prevent grit from accumulating inside the action.

An additional safety is present in the form of a halfcock notch in the hammer, which may be lowered to this position after chambering a round.

Provenance

The .44-40 rifle reviewed here belongs to a good buddy of mine. His father purchased it for $700 and then handed it down to my friend. The original owner had it most of his life and had hunted with it. A close look inside the bore showed quite a lot of pitting and rounded-off rifling. A gentle but thorough cleaning removed accumulated dust and remnant traces of fouling.

Rangetime

Out of deference to the rifle’s vintage, I assembled two mild handloads to test-fire through it. One consisted of a 200-grain hard-cast bullet sized to 0.429 inch, with the correct nose shape and length for the .44-40, over 7.3 grains of Unique powder. The second load featured a 180-grain short-jacketed hollowpoint bullet over 6.0 grains of Trail Boss powder. Both loads were primed with Winchester Large Pistol primers in Winchester brass.

Not knowing how the worn bore would shoot, I placed my test target at 25 yards. I tested the jacketed-bullet load first, thinking that the cast-bullet loads might quickly build up leading in the pitted bore.

The mild jacketed-bullet load averaged 0.93 inch, and initially the load with the hard-cast 200-grain bullets showed tremendous promise. The first group clumped into one ragged 0.64-inch hole; however, as I expected, the more I shot the cast bullets, the worse accuracy became. Still, they averaged an acceptable 2.13 inches.

With accuracy testing wrapped up, I stepped away from the bench and shot casually, running a few rapid-fire rounds at my steel Birchwood Casey popper target. While I didn’t get too aggressive about speed, the vintage rifle ran smoothly and without a hitch—and without a miss. Balance was wonderful, and recoil was mild. It’s no wonder it was the most popular all-around rifle of its time.

What are the best 7mm PRC rifles for hunting in 2024?

Hornady introduced the much anticipated 7mm Precision Rifle Cartridge to the world in late 2022 and the hunting community responded with an incredible amount of enthusiasm. I don’t think it’s a stretch to say the 7mm PRC is currently one of the hottest centerfire rifle cartridges in use today and I don’t think I can recall a new cartridge that was this popular from the very start. For that reason, numerous rifle manufacturers in the United States have started to produce a wide range of 7mm PRC rifles for hunting elk, deer, pronghorn, black bear, moose, and other big game animals.

The flat shooting and hard hitting 7 mm Precision Rifle Cartridge was a massive hit among hunters and shooters in North America who appreciated the outstanding accuracy potential and the incredible power the cartridge still packs even at extended range. It also compares favorably in performance to many other popular 7 mm cartridges, like the tried and true 7 mm Rem Mag.

To that end, all 7mm PRC rifles are built with a faster twist rate (usually 1:8″) that enables them to deliver top performance with the high BC bullets best suitable for long-range shooting. Specifically, the 7mm PRC is designed to shoot heavy-for-caliber bullets (specifically 175-grain and 180-grain lead core and 160-grain monolithic .284 caliber bullets) with great accuracy.

However, not all 7mm PRC rifles are created equal and different situations require different characteristics in a rifle.

Fortunately, there’s already a wide variety of 7mm PRC rifles well suited for most big game hunting situations. So, regardless of whether you’re planning on hunting elk in Wyoming, moose in Canada, mule deer in Colorado, whitetail out east, or some other big game hunting adventure elsewhere in the world, there is pretty much guaranteed to be something for everyone on the list below of the best 7mm PRC rifles for hunting.

In this article, I share my picks for the best 7mm PRC rifles for hunting elk, deer, pronghorn, black bears, moose, and all sorts of other big game. I’ll also go over the pros and cons of each individual rifle and help you select the right one for your specific hunting situation.

Before we get started, here’s a disclaimer: some of the links below are affiliate links. This means I will earn a small commission if you make a purchase. This commission comes at no extra cost to you. This helps support the blog and allows me to continue to create free content that’s useful to hunters like yourself. Thanks for your support.

It’s also important to realize the rifle is just a single part of the equation. Even the best rifle won’t be of much use without a high quality scope and without appropriate ammunition. Plus, a rifle sling and bipod can be very useful accessories as well.

Learn more about what I consider the best scope, factory ammo, bipod, and sling options for the 7mm PRC to use on your next hunt at the links below.

Best 7mm PRC Ammo For Hunting Elk, Deer, & Other Big Game

17 Best Rifle Scopes For Hunting In 2024

Best Hunting Rifle Slings For 2024

Best Hunting Rifle Bipods For 2024

Now that we’ve got all that out of the way, let’s get started.

Christensen Arms Ridgeline FFT

I’ll cut straight to the case: I think the Christensen Arms Ridgeline FFT is the best 7mm PRC rifle available for all-around hunting use.

Christensen Arms expanded their Ridgeline FFT line to include the brand new 7mm PRC round in early 2024 and it features their signature stainless-steel carbon-wrapped barrel, a TriggerTech trigger, and a stock, floorplate, and bolt knob all made from their new FFT (Flash Forged Technology) carbon parts.

The end result is a rifle that’s very light. Specifically, the Ridgeline FFT comes from the factory weighting about 5.8 pounds. Mine weighs just a touch over 7 pounds with a Leupold VX-5HD scope, sling, and full magazine.

For reference, this rifle weighs less even when “fully loaded” than some of the other 7mm PRC rifles on this list do when they’re completely stripped down. A light rifle like that is really nice to have on a physically demanding hunt and the reduced effort necessary to carry it for long distances can help you hunt longer, hike farther, and still be ready to take the shot when the opportunity comes.

Plus, my Ridgeline FFT will consistently shoot quarter sized groups (or smaller) at the range all day long with Hornady Precision Hunter and Outfitter factory ammunition. My best groups with this rifle at 100 yards measured around .8″ with Hornady Precision Hunter ammunition shooting 175 gr ELD-X bullets.

I also think it looks really cool too.

The Ridgeline comes from the factory with a stainless steel radial muzzle brake. I found that brake to be quite effective at reducing recoil. However, it’s also removable and the Ridgeline has a standard 5/8 x 24 thread pattern for those who want to use a different muzzle brake or a suppressor, which is the route I went.

I took mine to South Africa in mid-2024 and it performed flawlessly on plains game. I carried that rifle for several dozen miles through the African bushveld over the course of a 9 day hunt without issues. It was an absolute dream to carry on a hunt and shot great.

Yes, that’s a left handed rifle in the photo above, which brings me to my next point: Christensen Arms is one of the very few manufacturers who produces left handed 7mm PRC rifles. I think the Ridgeline FFT is hands-down the best left-handed option in that chambering that’s currently available too.

All in all, I think the Christensen Arms Ridgeline FFT is the best 7mm PRC rifle you can get right now and it delivers performance approaching what you’d get with a fully custom rifle at a much more reasonable price. It’s light enough to carry on basically any hunt without undue stress, but also isn’t so light that it’s extremely difficult to shoot accurately.

It will work great for a wide range of situations ranging from deer hunting in thick terrain to to pronghorn hunting on the open prairie, to elk or mule deer hunting in the high country. The Ridgeline FFT will also fit the bill for someone who wants a lightweight rifle for a sheep or goat hunt in extremely rough terrain.

However, the Christensen Arms Ridgeline FFT Titanium is probably a better choice for someone who wants an ultra-lightweight 7mm PRC rifle. That model is basically identical to the Ridgeline FFT, but has a titanium action and is about a half pound lighter than the already feather light Ridgeline FFT.

Long story short, it’s tough to go wrong with a Christensen arms Ridgeline FFT in 7mm PRC.

• Overall Length: 42″
• Barrel Length: 22″
• Length of Pull: 13.625″
• Weight: 5lbs 13oz (Ridgeline FFT) or 5lbs 5oz (Ridgeline FFT Titanium)
• Rifling Twist Rate: 1:8″
• Threaded Barrel: Yes, Muzzle Brake included (5/8″-24 thread pattern)
• Magazine Size: 3+1
• Accuracy Guarantee: Yes (1 MOA or better)
• Left Handed Models Available: Yes
• MSRP: $2,399.99

BUY A CHRISTENSEN ARMS RIDGELINE FFT HERE

BUY A CHRISTENSEN ARMS RIDGELINE FFT TITANIUM HERE

BUY A LEFT HANDED CHRISTENSEN ARMS RIDGELINE HERE

Also Available At: Guns.com & Sportsman’s Warehouse

Mossberg Patriot Predator

Though they were originally best known for their shotguns, O.F. Mossberg and Co. has made a name for themselves in recent years for their Patriot rifles. Indeed, the Mossberg Patriot has gained a reputation as a good value hunting rifle for a variety of uses.

Well, Mossberg was one of the first companies to start producing 7mm PRC rifles when they announced the Mossberg Patriot rifle chambered in the new 7mm Precision Rifle Cartridge in early 2024.

Built on the tried and true Patriot chassis, the Patriot Predator sports an optics ready Picatinny Rail, an oversized bolt handle, a user-adjustable trigger (2-7 pounds), and a spiral fluted barrel. The barrel also has an 11-degree Match Crown and is also threaded to accept a suppressor or after market muzzle brake.

The base model Patriot Predator rifle in 7mm PRC has a blued barrel and a flat dark earth (FDE) colored synthetic stock. However, Mossberg also makes a Cerakote/Strata Camo version of the Patriot Predator rifle in 7mm PRC that otherwise identical, but has a cerakote finish on the barrel and a Strata Camo stock.

All in all, I’d say the Mossberg Patriot Predator is definitely in the running the best value 7mm PRC rifle available and is an excellent choice for someone who wants a quality 7mm PRC rifle without breaking the bank.

• Overall Length: 44.25″
• Barrel Length: 24″
• Length of Pull: 13.75″
• Weight: 6.5lbs
• Rifling Twist Rate: 1:8″
• Threaded Barrel: Yes
• Magazine Size: 3+1
• Accuracy Guarantee: No
• Left Handed Models Available: No
• MSRP: $536 or $636 (Cerakote/Strata Camo)

BUY A MOSSBERG PATRIOT PREDATOR HERE

Also Available At: Sportsman’s Warehouse

Savage 110 Apex Hunter XP

The 110 Apex Hunter XP by Savage Arms is another one of the most reasonably priced 7mm PRC rifles currently available on the market.

The Apex Hunter XP in 7mm PRC has a 2 round detachable box magazine, a black synthetic stock that may be adjusted for length of pull, a user adjustable AccuTrigger (approximately a 2.5 to 6 pound trigger pull), and comes from the factory with a Vortex Crossfire II scope mounted and boresighted on the included rail system.

Additionally, the 22-inch barrel is a good balance of long enough for good performance with the 7mm Precision Rifle Cartridge, but not so long that the rifle is unwieldy.

Realize that you will take a small hit to your muzzle velocity by going with a 22″ instead of a 24″ barrel, but the 7mm PRC actually performs surprisingly well with a 22″ (or potentially even shorter) barrel. So, that tradeoff is worth it for many hunters.

Savage also makes an identical version of the 110 Apex Hunter XP for left handed shooters, which is another great choice for someone looking for the best left handed 7mm PRC rifle.

This is not a high end custom rifle and it lacks a lot of the bells and whistles other, more expensive rifles have. However, the Savage 110 Apex Hunter XP is a very functional rifle that will work well for someone with a smaller budget who wants a good all-around 7mm PRC hunting rifle.

• Overall Length: 43″
• Barrel Length: 22″
• Length of Pull: 12.75-13.75″
• Weight: 7lbs 13oz
• Rifling Twist Rate: 1:8″
• Threaded Barrel: No
• Magazine Size: 2+1 (detachable magazine)
• Accuracy Guarantee: No
• Left Handed Models Available: Yes
• MSRP: $709

BUY A SAVAGE APEX HUNTER HERE

BUY A LEFT HANDED SAVAGE APEX HUNTER HERE

Also Available At: Sportsman’s Warehouse

Browning X-Bolt Speed

The Browning X-Bolt Speed is another great 7mm PRC rifle for hunters, especially those wanting something that’s lighter and easier to carry that’s still capable of a high degree of accuracy and precision.

In addition to all the standard features of the X-Bolt model rifles, the X-Bolt Speed has some other nice characteristics like a cerakote finish for corrosion resistance, a composite stock with an Ovix camouflage pattern, a great recoil pad, and a free floated 24” threaded barrel with a muzzle brake.

This 7mm PRC rifle also has a sporter contour barrel that’s fluted at the end to keep weight down while still being threaded for a radial muzzle brake (included) or suppressor.

It’s not quite as light as the Ridgeline FFT, but the X-Bolt Speed is also little bit less expensive. All in all, this is another one of the best lightweight 7mm PRC rifles available.

• Overall Length: 44.75″
• Barrel Length: 24″
• Length of Pull: 13.625″
• Weight: 6lbs 5oz
• Rifling Twist Rate: 1:8″
• Threaded Barrel: Yes, Muzzle Brake included (M13x0.75 thread pattern)
• Magazine Size: 3 (detachable rotary magazine)
• Accuracy Guarantee: No
• Left Handed Models Available: No
• MSRP: $1,429.99

BUY A BROWNING X-BOLT SPEED HERE

Browning X-Bolt Max Long Range

The Browning X-Bolt Max Long Range is basically the other side of the coin from the Browning X-Bolt Speed. Just as the name states, it’s a 7mm PRC rifle optimized for target shooting or long range hunting performance.

The new 7mm PRC caliber is designed to use heavier bullets with higher ballistic coefficients and this particular rifle is a good way to pair those heavy bullets with a faster muzzle velocity and a very stable shooting platform optimized for accuracy.

To that end, this rifle has a longer 26″ stainless steel, fluted heavy sporter barrel for the long range accuracy and performance. The composite Max stock has an adjustable comb for proper eye-to-scope alignment and also comes with 1/4″ and 1/2″ length of pull spacers to help the shooter adjust the stock for proper fit.

The particular model rifle pictured above uses a black and gray textured finish composite stock, but Browning also offers an identical rifle with their Ovix camouflage pattern.

The stock also has 3 separate sling swivel studs for use with a sling and/or bipod. The barrel also has a 5/8″-24 thread pattern and comes with a very aggressive Recoil Hawg muzzle brake Browning claims can reduce recoil up to 76%. For those who don’t want to use the brake, a thread protector is included and the rifle can also be used with a suppressor, which should also result is less recoil.

This rifle weighs just over 8 pounds without a scope, so it’s not exactly lightweight, but isn’t extremely heavy either. Even so, this rifle is designed more for long-range performance than for ease of carry.

With that in mind, this rifle should be a very stable shooting platform that helps the shooter wring all the performance possible out of the flat shooting and hard hitting 7mm PRC rifle cartridge and the aerodynamic bullets it uses.

That extra weight, when combined with the recoil pad and very aggressive muzzle brake, will also really help tame recoil.

This is pretty far from a good mountain hunting rifle. However, this is definitely one of the best long range 7mm PRC rifles you can buy these days. The Browning X-Bolt Max Long Range also not so large or heavy that it’s impossible to carry either.

This is an absolutely perfect 7mm PRC hunting rifle for those hunting in more open and/or gently rolling terrain where a stable shooting platform and the best long range performance are more important than a lightweight and easy to carry rifle.

Get the Browning X-Bolt Max Long Range if you want a great rifle with a long effective range and don’t mind lugging around some extra weight. Go with something else if that’s not what you’re looking for.

• Overall Length: 46.825″
• Barrel Length: 26″
• Length of Pull: 13.75″
• Weight: 8lbs 3oz
• Rifling Twist Rate: 1:8″
• Threaded Barrel: Yes, Muzzle Brake included (5/8″-24 thread pattern)
• Magazine Size: 3 (detachable rotary magazine)
• Accuracy Guarantee: No
• Left Handed Models Available: No
• MSRP: $1,479.99

BUY A BROWNING X-BOLT MAX LONG RANGE HERE

Ruger American

Ruger’s American rifle has gained a reputation for being one of the most reasonably priced centerfire hunting rifles around today. These are great guns hunters all over the world have used the Ruger American to take almost any species of big game you can think of, to include the biggest game in North America.

Well, Ruger has fortunately added the 7mm PRC to their Ruger American lineup, which is another great value 7mm PRC hunting rifle that’s also functional and well built.

This rifle does not have a lot of bells and whistles or cool design features. However, it’s a very serviceable, practical, and reasonably priced 7mm PRC rifle for many hunters.

The Ruger American does not come with an accuracy guarantee and you likely won’t be winning any shooting competitions with it. However, every single one of these rifles I’ve used over the years has shot surprisingly well.

This particular version of the American rifle has a cerakote finish on the barrel and a synthetic stock with a “GO Wild® Camo I-M Brush” color. It also has a threaded barrel (5/8″-24) and comes with a removable muzzle brake that may be replaced with a thread protector (sold separately) or suppressor.

All things considered, the Ruger American is an outstanding 7mm PRC rifle for hunting a variety of big game, but is an especially good choice for someone who wanted to use primarily for hunting whitetail deer and feral hogs who wanted a rifle they could also use on an elk or moose hunt in the future.

• Overall Length: 44″
• Barrel Length: 24″
• Length of Pull: 13.75″
• Weight: 7.1lbs
• Rifling Twist Rate: 1:8″
• Threaded Barrel: Yes (5/8″-24 thread pattern)
• Magazine Size: 3
• Accuracy Guarantee: No
• Left Handed Models Available: No
• MSRP: $789

BUY A RUGER AMERICAN HERE

Also Available At: Cabela’s, Guns.com, and Sportsman’s Warehouse

Fierce Carbon Rouge

Fierce Firearms is a smaller and newer rifle maker based out of Redmond, Utah. Instead of focusing on budget rifles, Fierce Firearms produces a lot of higher end models that utilize carbon fiber and other modern and innovate features.

Well, Fierce immediately started producing 7 mm PRC rifles right after Hornady introduced the cartridge and the Carbon Rouge is one of their offerings in that chambering. The Carbon Rouge has a both a carbon stock and a carbon-wrapped barrel. You have the option of selecting either a 22-inch or a 24-inch barrel with the Carbon Rouge.

It also has an innovative integral bipod rail and QD flush cups.

As you can imagine, this rifle is light. This rifle also comes with an astounding .75-MOA accuracy guarantee. When combined with the overall lightweight, modern design of the Carbon Rouge, this definitely looks like a great rifle for those who want a lightweight rifle with plenty of reach.

All in all, the Fierce Carbon Rouge is an outstanding 7mm PRC hunting rifle for someone who wants high end performance without shelling out the cash necessary to purchase a completely custom rifle.

• Overall Length: 42-44″
• Barrel Length: 22″ or 24″
• Weight: 5.8lbs
• Rifling Twist Rate: 1:8″
• Threaded Barrel: Yes (5/8″-24), radial muzzle brake included
• Magazine Size: 3
• Accuracy Guarantee: Yes (.75 MOA at 100 yards)
• Left Handed Models Available: No
• MSRP: $2,199.99

BUY A FIERCE CARBON ROUGE HERE

Also Available At: Guns.com

It’s also important to realize the rifle is just a single part of the equation. Even the best rifle won’t be of much use without a high quality scope and without appropriate ammunition. Plus, a rifle sling and bipod can be very useful accessories as well.

Learn more about what I consider the best scope, factory ammo, bipod, and sling options for the 7mm PRC to use on your next hunt at the links below.

Best 7mm PRC Ammo For Hunting Elk, Deer, & Other Big Game

17 Best Rifle Scopes For Hunting In 2024

Best Hunting Rifle Slings For 2024

Best Hunting Rifle Bipods For 2024

Enjoy this article on the best 7mm PRC rifles for hunting in 2024? Please share it with your friends on Facebook and Twitter.

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NEXT: HOW 11 BEST HUNTING EAR PROTECTION OPTIONS FOR HUNTERS

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NEXT: 101 BEST GIFTS FOR HUNTERS

Orcas are extremely fascinating large black and white mammals who rule any body of water they live in. You may have heard about Orcas attacking other animals and even occasionally humans — so you may be curious about how much damage their bite can actually do.

Orcas have an estimated bite force of 19,000 PSI which means they are at the top of the ocean food chain and can take down anything that comes into its path. However, although Orcas spend most of their time hunting for food, they are not typically overly aggressive mammals and won’t generally bother with some other types of sea creatures.

In the wild, Orcas live an average of 30 to 50 years — with female Orcas occasionally living up to 100 years old. In captivity, this number is much lower — Orcas typically only live about 17 to 29 years. And there are many more interesting facts about Orcas including how they use their teeth as well as how they compare to sharks and other animals.

How Strong Is An Orca’s Bite?

It’s difficult to get an exact measurement of how hard an orca can bite, but it’s estimated that its bite force is an incredible 19,000 PSI (Pounds per square inch). To put this into perspective, the dog with the highest bite force (the Kangal) has a bite force of 743 PSI. This bite force can vary depending on the size, age, and sex of the Orca doing the biting, as well as how it is measured.

How Sharp Are Orca’s Teeth?

The large teeth of an Orca are conical (cone-shaped) and interlocking. These teeth are very sharp however they are not meant to use to simply chew food — they’re meant to rip the food apart into smaller chunks the Orca can simply swallow.

How Many Teeth Does An Orca Whale Have?

Orcas have teeth lining both their upper and lower jaws — they have 48 to 52 teeth in total! Orcas have 10 – 14 large teeth on either side of their jaw on both the upper and lower jaws. Their teeth start to grow in when they are just a few weeks old and will have their complete set of full-grown teeth by the time they are about 11 or 12 weeks of age.

How Big Are Orca’s Teeth?

Orcas have 48 to 52 teeth and all of them grow to be about four inches long. They are quite sharp in addition to being large for their size.

Do Orcas Teeth Grow Back?

Orcas only get one set of teeth in their lifetime, so any teeth they happen to lose will not be replaced. Since their teeth are large and they have quite a strong base, they don’t lose them too easily. So, most Orcas will retain most of their teeth throughout their lifetime.

Orca Teeth vs Shark Teeth

Although they may seem similar, Orcas and Sharks are quite different, and one main difference is the number of teeth they have as well as how they use them.

Orca Teeth. Orcas have only one set of roughly 50 teeth and they use these sharp, strong teeth to rip their food apart before they swallow the chunks whole.

Shark Teeth. Sharks have many rows of teeth — so they can have a few hundred up to a few thousand teeth! Sharks continuously lose their teethby biting and chewing (losing around 100 teeth a day is not uncommon!) but there are always new teeth ready to replace them. Sharks use their triangular-shaped, razor-sharp teeth to kill, rip apart, and chew up their prey.

Are Killer Whales And Orcas The Same Thing?

Orcas are commonly referred to as killer whales and the names are often used interchangeably — even by marine experts.

However, killer whales are actually not whales at all! Killer whales are actually dolphins — in fact, they’re the largest member of the dolphin family. All whales, dolphins, and porpoises fall under the order of Cetacea. However, it’s the teeth of an Orca that makes them fall under the suborder called Odontoceti — which means toothed whale. This is one popular theory about why Orcas are referred to as killer whales.

Another popular theory about how Orcas became known as killer whales is that in the past whalers called Orcas “killers of whales” and the name eventually got shortened and it stuck.

Are Killer Whales Aggressive?

While killer whales can look very aggressive when it comes to finding and eating their prey, they don’t generally seek to harm humans on purpose. And the aggression they show is simply them tearing apart their food to feed themselves and the other Orcas in their pod.

However, if an Orca is in a situation where they feel threatened, are protecting their family, or are prodded when they’re feeling emotionally unstable, they will likely lash out and injure — or even kill — any human that’s in their vicinity. It’s also often said that if killer whales are kept in captivity, they may get frustrated and depressed and lash out at a trainer or another human.

Generally, the aim of a killer whale is only to play in a friendly way with the humans they come into contact with. But unfortunately, their playing often will hurt a human because of the Orca’s strength, and the fact that they will often drag them underwater where they will usually drown.

Can Orcas See Color?

Orcas have excellent eyesight and they can see color — but not in the same way that humans can. Orcas have two types of color receptors while most humans have three types of receptors. Therefore, Orcas have trouble seeing the red-green axis.

Do Orcas Eat Sharks?

Although sharks are major predators of the waters they live in, the one great natural enemy of a shark is the Orca! The Orca will win in a fight against a shark almost every time.

However, Orcas generally don’t hunt for sharks because while they will usually win, sharks have razor-sharp teeth and the fight they put up will generally harm the Orca before the Orca can finish them off.

Orcas have a very diverse carnivore diet and will typically hunt a variety of fish, as well as penguins, seals, moose, seabirds, whales, and even other dolphins. Orcas tend to hunt in pods of about 40 — mostly made of up families. Resident pods tend to be less aggressive and hunt only for fish and smaller sea creatures, while transient pods work together to hunt larger marine mammals — which they then share amongst themselves.

How Tall Is An Orca’s Dorsal Fin?

The dorsal fin is a major distinguishing feature of the Orca. Just behind the dorsal fin is a saddle-shaped grey area, referred to appropriately as a “saddle”.

Once an Orca is fully grown, its dorsal fin is tall and triangular and is an average of six feet tall.

Most female Orcas have slightly smaller, more curved dorsal fins that reach about three to four feet high.

How Big Do Orcas Get?

Orcas are considered to be the largest species of the dolphin family. Male Orcas will grow to be between 20 – 26 feet long, with female Orcas generally being a bit smaller — coming in between 18 – 22 feet long. To put this into perspective male Orcas are roughly the size of a bus. The longest Orca ever recorded was 32 feet long.

Male Orcas will typically weigh 12,000 pounds or more, while female Orcas generally weigh between 8,000 and 11,000 pounds.

Even when they are born, baby Orcas (calves) are roughly seven to eight feet long and weigh an average of 400 pounds.

How Often Do Orcas Eat?

Orcas need between 150 and 300 pounds of food every day in order to stay healthy and active. If an Orca is extremely active, they may need up to 375 pounds of food to make up for the calories they burn while hunting and traveling.

It’s not uncommon for an Orca to spend up to 90% of their day hunting for food.

Could An Orca Bite A Crocodile In Half?

With their super sharp teeth, an Orca very likely could bite a crocodile in half, however,it’s quite unlikely that would actually happen. Since Orcas tend to tear their food up before they eat it if they were to capture a crocodile, they would likely hold onto it with their teeth and slam it around until it was immobilized and then use their teeth to rip it apart.

Alternatively, if it was a large Orca that came upon a smaller crocodile the Orca may just swallow up the entire crocodile whole.

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Successful hunting sessions usually require you to bear the stiff North winds or endure the thick fog while paying attention to your goose spread.

The last part plays a quintessential role during any hunting expedition, and the lack of decoy placement knowledge can result in frustrating failed hunting attempts, especially if you are a novice hunter.

To bag multiple geese, hunters must utilize their hunting ground smartly while creating a foolproof strategy.

In this article, we shall peer into five of the most acknowledged decoy spreads for a successful hunting expedition.

5 Best Goose Decoy Spread With Corresponding Diagrams

The following are five of the best goose decoy spreads with matching diagrams to quickly understand the spread’s structure.

We highly recommend trying all five at multiple expeditions while gauging the season, terrain, and topography of the hunting ground.

#1 Classic U-Shaped Decoy Spread

The U-shaped decoy spread is the most classic and loved spread across the United States. The main shape of the setup alongside the decoy resembles a beautiful U, giving it the corresponding name.

Its U shape helps funnel the geese directly into the middle of this design, which falls in front of the shooters.

You can alter the blind placement according to the weather and climatic conditions, but ideally, a center U blind position can funnel all the geese near the shooter.

Hunters can usually benefit greatly when the blinds are placed in the far front area or apex of the spread during strong winds. Similarly, you can place the blinds at the back of your spread design, giving birds ample time to lower their height from the ground.

We highly recommend this position when you go on a group hunting trip.

Always remember that the wind’s strength dictates your blind placement; stronger winds are ideal for upfront blinds, while low wind conditions are preferable for further back blinds.

Also, ensure that you are hiding all the blinds properly by packing multiple decoys around them. We recommend following a random decoy placement pattern instead of a 2-2 ft measured gap.

A little random spread gives a natural look that can fool and lure the geese easily.

#2 Cross Wind + Sideways U Decoy Spread

Understanding the bird’s instincts and habits shall help you hunt better regardless of the season or hunting location. You will also need your best-looking geese for this specific decoy spread, as it is highly focused on the birds’ instincts.

This decoy is a sideways U decoy mostly used when encountered by crosswinds. Remember that hunters need to bring all their baits for this spread and ensure they look natural to perform effectively.

Start placing most of the decoys around the blinds so the spot is relatively hidden. Content decoys can be equally effective when placed nearest to the blinds.

Also, it is known that geese prefer to land in the middle of a group, so using their habit for our benefit can help hunters lure the bird better.

To do that, you can place four to five active geese in the middle of the zone. Try to use your best-looking geese for this action, and it shall be your staple spread during late-season hunting every year.

#3 The Double V Decoy Spread

Our third decoy spread is the double V design that works exceptionally well in water setup for puddle birds. Another fascinating positive of this spread is its ability to attract multiple primary, secondary, and even oddball duck species.

However, hunters must understand how to lure these geese and other birds.

You can start setting your first V slightly upwards where the wind is supposedly blowing parallel to the river/pond bank. For your second set of V, arrange the decoys behind the first V at a safe distance.

We suggest opting for a reasonable 10-20 yards distance between the first and the second V.

To make the spread more natural and attract small flocks or singles, consider placing single decoys between the V at regular intervals.

Furthermore, to increase the chances of attracting more birds, create secondary decoy spreads near the blind, especially between the gap of both the Vs.

Hunters must remember that puddle ducks habitually land behind the V decoy shape instead of landing in front like most divers.

On the other hand, southern waterfowl hunters hunting in November usually have great success with this spread using a mix of green-winged teal and mallards. Even black ducks, gadwalls, and pintails work well in the location.

#4 X Decoy Spread

X decoy setup is one of the most exciting decoy spreads and usually requires a lot of space for proper execution. The blinds are always positioned in the center of the X as the decoy geese extend in four corners.

That positioning is excellent and highly lucrative with little to no wind.

Additionally, this spread is ideal for hunters who want the benefit of shooting from all directions based on the bird’s landing. If you like the freedom to attack from all directions, this X decoy spread will surely be your staple design for future hunts.

Geese, like other birds, enjoy the safety of multiple birds in one place, but fortunately, this decoy is designed to give hunters ample void spaces for the geese to get drawn into. So, when talking about X spread, hunters get four voids covering all directions.

Shooters can begin hunting as soon as they spot the first group coming towards the spread. You can either consider shooting them overhead or allow them to land and then reposition to shoot for the entire day.

X decoy spread requires double the number of the decoy compared to standard or regular setups. However, hunters usually prefer this spread during the late-hunting season with a strong strategy while using their best-looking baits.

Additionally, this spread allows shooters to utilize the decoys collected for the past few seasons. Lastly, try to mud the blinds and brush them to blend well; it can make a lot of difference.

#5 The Crop Circle Decoy Spread

This crop circle decoy setup works flawlessly even during variable and light winds. Harvested grain fields look attractive enough that geese and ducks tend to come down in any direction.

Furthermore, the circle spread allows the ducks to be in the front, making shooting them far easier. .

To create the most authentic crop circle decoy setup, you need to set up a small flock in a circle with an individual decoy in the center of the ring. The geese then target the inside edge of the ring or directly aim at the center decoy.

The most common and successful decoy has to be the mallards; however, even gadwalls, pintails, and other species can entice the geese.

Furthermore, if you spot Canadian geese near your hunting ground, consider setting up a tiny group of goose decoys far from your main circle spread. Those secondary decoys will surely provide a bonus opportunity when you miss out during the crop circle.

How Many Decoys Should I Bring To Hunt Geese?

It varies from one hunter to another. Some people suggest a modest number, while others will spurt an astonishing number of decoys. However, in our experience, we can tell that even a setup of 15-20 decoys shall work in your favor, provided you know what you’re doing.

Similarly, if you wish to opt for more baits, consider sketching our setups that work well with hundreds of lures. The X decoy spread is one such setup that works efficiently with hundreds of lures.

Apart from personal preference and spread selection, three main factors influence the number of your spread:

Hunting Season

As a general rule of thumb, hunters need to increase or decrease their number of decoys based on the season and its progression. That is mainly necessary because as time progresses, so does the size of the flocks due to migration.

Another remarkable observation passed on for centuries is the geese’s preference. Usually, flocks never land towards decoy flocks smaller than the birds flying above. Thus, the bigger the congregation, the more decoys should be shelled out for the display.

Early season hunting is possible with smaller decoy spreads as the flocks are notably smaller. An average of 15-20 decoys will be sufficient for early-season hunting.

Additionally, we recommend limiting your decoy to a smaller number even if you have access to a good number of baits.

A cluster of lures in the early season can look highly unnatural. For mid-season, keep a safe number of 25- 40 decoys as you shall notice geese migrating to multiple hunting spots.

The birds will start feeling the hunting pressure from the mid-season, so to make the flocks comfortable, hunters need to arrange decoys anywhere from 25 to 40. Lastly, late-season calls for the most significant number of bait spread hunters can set.

Geese are usually in complete migration with many birds in their flocks; therefore, we recommend decoys anywhere between 50-80+.

Shooters must remember that birds feel the most hunting pressure in this period, so luring them becomes relatively challenging. You may succeed with smaller decoy setups if the area is filled with solo birds flying by.

Decoy Type

The decoy type that you will operate ends up playing a significant impact on the quantity required. The most popular decoys consist of windsock, shells, full-body, and silhouette decoys.

Hunters who often hunt with full-body decoys can get away with small spreads featuring lesser baits as the full-body ones have the most outstanding visibility amongst all decoy types.

If you are hunting Canadian geese, oversized shell decoys can undoubtedly become your best friend in the fields. However, shooters opting for silhouette decoys need a significant number of decoys for their spreads.

Since these decoys are 2-Dimensional, hunters need to use a massive number of baits facing in multiple directions.

Hunters On The Field

The decoys on the hunting field are directly proportional to the number of hunters on the ground. You might even see hunters preferring to stick to their ‘1 hunter = 2 dozen decoys’ formula. That formula is a safe bet which ensures that every hunter’s blind is well covered.

With each added hunter, the ground needs a group of decoys to hide that particular blind effectively. If hunters set up an X or V spread, then almost every shooter wants to be at the tip of the V and in the middle of the X.

At such times, to mask the uneven bumps and hunter silhouettes, you need to use a lot of decoys. That allows the hunters to have fair and better shooting opportunities as the geese approach their respective decoy spread.

Effective Goose Hunting Decoy Spread Tips

• Hunters can successfully hunt even if they lack a massive collection of decoys. All they need is a foolproof strategy that works according to the season.
• Ensure to leave enough void for the geese to land perfectly. Decoys that clump too close together usually discourage geese from approaching the spreads. A six to eight feet gap between each bait provides ample space for the birds to land without feeling any suspicion. However, you must place a few decoys together to show a small family grouping. That call is entirely dependent on the type of spread you have chosen in the first place. We recommend using your best judgment with acute observations for a successful trap.
• Always use the wind speed and direction to your advantage. Geese are habitual to landing into the wind, so if the wind is supposedly blowing toward the west, these birds will land facing the west cutting the wind. Wind direction is crucial if you wish to bag multiple birds without losing sight of your prey.
• Try to observe and replicate the behavior of the geese. While scouting for hunting grounds, consider studying the birds and their habits. Check whether they are flying solo or are always in a group. Also, kindly pay attention to their eating, resting place, feeding time, etc. Use this information to sketch an ideal spread that shall work in your favor on the day of hunting.

Conclusion

With those tips, we have come to the end of our geese decoy spread article. We highly encourage novice hunters to use our recommendations and reliable spreads for successful hunting expeditions.

Even if a spread setup doesn’t work out, opt for another while keeping track of the errors. With some consistent trial and error, you shall be able to master the art of skillful spreads.

Bob Jensen |

I like to go ice-fishing. And, I like to catch whatever I can catch through the ice. Walleyes, bluegills, crappies, bass…they’re all fun. But I also really like to catch perch and so do a whole lot of other ice-anglers. Fortunately, there are lots of outstanding places to catch perch across the Ice-Belt. Following are some ideas for catching perch (and most other fish) through the ice from the middle part of the ice-fishing season until the ice disappears.

You’ve Gotta Find’em

As always, first you’ve gotta’ find’em. “Pounding” is a good way to locate perch as well as walleyes. Drop your bait to the bottom, then pick it up so it’s just a few inches above the bottom. A spoon works well for “pounding”. If you have a depth-finder that enables you to see a certain zone, several of the Vexilar units incorporate this feature, set the unit so you can look at the zone just above the bottom. It’s easy to do and will really give you a good idea of what’s going on down there around your lure.

Now, on a tight line, allow the bait to fall so it hits the bottom. Do this 3 or 4 times, then lift the bait up 6-12 inches above the bottom and hold it there. The pounding action will attract any fish that might be in the area and they’ll come in for a closer look. They might eat, they might not, but at least you know that there are fish in the area. I prefer to “pound” the spoon with a tight line. If the spoon falls on a limp line, it can tangle up in the line. Fish usually don’t eat spoons that are tangled.

Presentation

If the perch are looking but not eating, you need to show them something different. Don’t change baits yet, just present it differently. Maybe move it faster or slower, but move it differently.

If the fish still don’t respond, we need to go to another color or maybe another type of bait. In the mid and latter parts of the ice-fishing season, the fish have seen a lot of baits. Try showing them something that maybe they haven’t seen as much of. Clam Tackle’s Pinhead Mino and Leech Flutter Spoons are a couple of relatively new baits that the perch have been liking. The eighth ounce size is a good place to start, but don’t hesitate to try the sixteenth ounce size if the fish don’t eat the bigger one. Go larger for walleyes. These spoons have become very popular in a short amount of time for finicky fish.

And, sometimes you have to go tiny for pressured perch or when the weather has them shut off. This is when you bring out the lightweight small stuff. My go-to setup for finicky perch or crappies has become a Sceptre light action rod with a spring- bobber. 3 pound test Floroice line is as light as I go. This size is nearly invisible, yet it’s plenty strong for most perch. A little Drop Kick or Drop Jig tipped with a spike or waxworm completes the package. I like to start with a heavier jig, but will go smaller if necessary. The spring-bobber on the rod will reveal even the lightest strike. Keep in mind, the weight of the jig will pull the bobber down a bit. If the spring-bobber goes down farther or goes up, a fish has eaten your bait.

Some of the best ice-fishing of the season is coming. If you keep these ideas in mind, your next few weeks of ice-fishing will be even more productive.

To see new and old episodes of Fishing the Midwest television, new and old fishing articles, and fishing video tips, visit fishingthemidwest.com and don’t forget to join us at Facebook.com/fishingthemidwest.

A native of New Jersey, this taxonomic relict dates back to 250 million years.

I must admit, as a kid I enjoyed playing in the mud with my older brother way too much. Little did I know, that as an adult I would find myself still reveling in that joyous childhood pleasure.

Ironically, some of my favorite fishing adventures occur in the muddiest and swampiest places that I could explore here in South Jersey. Previously, I had become quite addicted to catching monster northern snakeheads. At the time I never thought that I would find another species that would match that kind of adrenaline rush or that would thrive in such a murky, mysterious environment.

It’s a fish with as many monikers as Satan himself, and a hell-raising disposition to match. Mudfish, mud pike, dogfish, grinnel, and cypress trout, are just some of the names they are known as in different parts of the country. I had heard of them as bowfin, but never once encountered these singular beasts even though they were surely in some of the waterways where I had cast my line many times over when scouting for other, more familiar species.

It just goes to show that they have a knack for hiding in plain sight.

Where one might be inclined to cast far out in open water, bowfin could be lingering on the shallow bank underbrush submerged in the muck right at your feet. This king of the swamp really knows how to get down and dirty. Perhaps that is how they have survived for millions of years, because of their amazing ability to lay low.

A Prehistoric Native

Amia calva, yet another more formal name, date way back to the Jurassic period and their fossils have indicated that they were once widespread across North and South America, Europe, Asia, and Africa. These fish are the only surviving member of a prehistoric family of fish known as the order Amliformes. They are thought of as a highly-evolved primitive fish given that they’ve not changed much from their earliest ancestors. I’d say they must have gotten something right to have outlasted the dinosaurs. Today their population is not as widespread as it once was and is limited to the eastern part of the United States, Southern Canada, and several rivers flowing from the Eastern Seaboard or Gulf of Mexico.

Bowfin are related to gar and share their fantastic trait of being air breathers. A swim bladder serves as both a float for buoyancy and as a crude lung. The primitive lung makes it possible for bowfin to survive in poorly oxygenated water and also helps them endure extended periods of time out of the water. Another species that shares this same quality is the snakehead, a fish often confused with the bowfin in appearance. But bowfin are native to our area and have been for millions of years, where the northern snakehead is believed to have been introduced in the past decade or so.

Northern snakeheads are considered invasive and it is recommended that they be destroyed when caught. Sadly many bowfin are erroneously killed when an angler does not spot the differences between the two fish. Key differences that set the bowfin apart from the snakehead are a black eye spot (in males) located on the narrow part of their body where their tail fin is attached, a shorter anal fin, a solid tan or olive coloration, a rounded head, and an upper jaw that protrudes past their lower jaw.

Bowfin have gotten a bad reputation for allegedly having a negative impact on the environment. It is feared by some that the aggressive fish take over waterways and devour popular gamefish or simply out-compete them for food stunting their populations. It seems strange to be thinking this of a fish that has been here for millions of years. The developing attitude towards these fish is similar to the truly invasive snakehead. Perhaps their all too similar traits are responsible for this shift in opinion.

We ourselves are not without blame for having a negative impact on the environment. The use of herbicides to clear vegetation for boats could pose just as much of a threat to the habitats of juvenile fish. Still, there are some studies that have been positive for this species, pointing out that bowfin are actually indicative of a thriving habitat.

Spring & Summer Target

These fish spawn in early spring or early summer, typically when the water temperatures reach a steady 60 to 65 degrees. This is the very best time to catch them in numbers. The males make the spawning beds over sand bars, under stumps, logs or bushes in depths of up to 3 feet of water. The males also sport a vibrant lime green coloration on their fins, underbelly, and on the inside of their mouths at this time. The females can produce up to 5,000 eggs, which the males will guard until the fry reach about 2 to 3 inches in length.

These cylindrical fish are ambush predators and can be caught on many of the same lures and baits used for bass. The gear that I use does not differ from anything that I would use for bass fishing. You can use either a spinning or a casting rod. I use a sturdy 6-1/2-foot medium/heavy spinning rod loaded with 30-pound braid. Braid is a must because these fish have very sharp teeth. In fact, you could find using a wire leader to be a wise choice. I just check my line for frays after I catch a couple, and if the line looks sketchy I re-tie lures or hooks as needed.

I prefer to use a reel that is sealed such as the Penn Fierce 3000 spinning reel because it doesn’t mind getting dirty or being beat on by these beastly fish. A strong super line 4/0 hook is definitely necessary when you are using bait. These bruisers can easily bend a standard hook wide open. Using cut bait has no doubt been my most successful choice for catching bowfin. It is said that their sense of smell is much greater than their sight, makes sense for a fish that thrives in stained water. I have also used shrimp and imitation crab meat with great success. When fishing cut or live bait I prefer to attach a bobber, but you certainly could fish bottom on the same rig you would use for catfish.

I find the bobber method to be more productive because you really know the moment they take the bait. Give them a few seconds swimming with it and hit them hard on the hookset. Their heads are extremely bony, and you have to really sink that hook to keep them on.

One major thing I have noticed when fishing for bowfin is that they do not spook as easily as your typical gamefish. I don’t know if it is because of their temperament, the spawn, or simply that they are not as targeted as other more sought after fish. It is pretty awesome though. So if you miss a fish on a cast, don’t worry. Let the bait sit for a minute or recast it back out to the same spot. Most of the bowfin that I have encountered have hit again, multiple times.

As far as lures, top water frogs and spinners have worked for me. The level of vegetation usually dictates which one is the better choice. Work the banks, around stumps, or under bushes. Often you will see a v-shaped wake come charging your lure.

Battle Tested Bruisers

Their ability to breathe air is very useful in the heat of summer when oxygen levels are low in the water. When they need to replenish their oxygen, they surface, release depleted oxygen through their gills and gulp a fresh supply of air through their mouths. It is a telltale sign as to where they are, so when you see a swirl cast a little past it and reel in. Jigging is also a good method to entice a bite.

Some people consider this species to be a “trash fish” but they can give a better fight than many of the popular gamefish. Pound-for-pound these fish are one of the most extreme fighters I have hooked in freshwater. I can definitely understand how someone might get annoyed if they aren’t expecting this kind of bite. Bowfin can really mangle your favorite lure or snap it off altogether.

The intense tug of war that ensues after hooking into one of these prehistoric beasts reminds me of the fierce battle that you would get with a northern snakehead. The sheer power of this predator is amazing and they never seem to tire. Both fish are agile as they torpedo through the water on the other end of your line. Snakeheads seem to be more acrobatic and can leap out of the water trying to throw the hook, whereas bowfin tend to have a more bulldog approach and dig straight for the sanctity of the bottom or underbrush to escape. You will have to play these fish diligently to land them, but as you pull them in you will see that they just don’t stop trying to free themselves. They often go into a death roll much like a crocodile.

Removing the hook from these toothy critters can be intimidating. A lip gripper and pliers are must have gear to get the job done. They tend to continue to thrash violently on the gripper; safely lay them down to avoid hurting them or yourself. Catch, photo, and release them as quickly as possible so you can get back out there and catch another. Most likely there will be more fish in the vicinity.

If you don’t have any idea where to begin to locate populations of these fish, take a little time and scout some swampy tidal waterways that you may have bypassed for the beaten path. They prefer well vegetated areas with little or no current. You may find yourself catching northern snakeheads in these same areas as well. Make your own adventure and find those hidden living fossils.

These prehistoric fish are a must catch for any avid fisherman; add them to your list. You might get a little dirty, but you’ll have so much fun doing it.

Keep reading to learn the story about how I got my first deer.

Just after first light that morning, my father tapped me on the knee and slowly motioned to our left. I looked and saw two shapes carefully moving through the mist. Looking through the scope on my rifle, I could see that the shapes were two young bucks about 50 yards away walking warily towards the feeder in front of us and my pulse quickened. “They’re bucks” I whispered to my father. “Pick one and go ahead and shoot him” my father responded. Steadying the rifle on the front rail of the deer stand, I took aim at the front shoulder of the lead buck and squeezed the trigger. With the roar of the rifle, I shot my first deer and my life changed forever.

The road to that day began many years previously when I began accompanying my father and grandfather on their deer hunting trips, as I described in my previous article. As the years went by and I grew older and more mature, I began hunting myself. I started off hunting squirrels and other small game animals. By the time I turned 11, my father decided I was old enough to hunt deer under his supervision.

That summer we attended a hunter education class together and he purchased a rifle for me: a post-1964 Winchester Model 70 Featherweight chambered in .308 Winchester. He made some special reduced power hand loads for me that had considerably less recoil than factory loads. The 130gr bullet fired at 2300 feet per second was still plenty powerful for a white tail at relatively close range, but the recoil was much easier on my wiry frame to shoot than full power loads.

My father was, and still is, very serious about hunting safely and ethically. Even though I was going to be hunting under his direct supervision, he was very strict about ensuring that understood when and when not to shoot as well as the details of shot placement. As a result, I spent hours at the range practicing precise shot placement at various ranges and angles.

Finally, I had to pass a written test designed and administered by my dad. The test covered a lot of details about hunting in general that were not covered in the hunter safety class. For instance, one of the questions was: How do you best determine if a deer is actually dead when you find the body after trailing it? Answer: while approaching the deer from behind, use a stick or the barrel of your rifle to touch the deer’s eye. If there is no reflex movement, then the deer is actually dead and is safe to otherwise touch. When we hit the woods that fall, I was probably one of the best prepared boys to ever start deer hunting.

Several years previously, my dad had constructed a two person, elevated stand down in a creek bottom overlooking a feeder on our land in eastern Texas that we would hunt from that year. That area was always a solid producer of deer: my dad once counted 17 does eating from the feeder at the same time. If there was ever an ideal place for a young hunter like me to shoot my first deer, this was it.

That first morning dawned foggy and crisp with a very light wind from the north. To this day I love weather like that because I’ve had so much success hunting in those conditions. This particular morning would be the first of those successes and I distinctly remember seeing the muzzle flash of my rifle through the fog while looking through the scope at the buck.

The buck staggered at the shot and disappeared back the way he came. From his reaction, I knew that I had made a good shot. If it is even possible, I think my father was even more excited than I was after the shot (and I was pretty darn excited). He gave me a pat on the back and said “You didn’t even feel the rifle kick did you?” No, I didn’t, and I don’t remember the report of the rifle hurting my ears either due to the adrenaline rush I was feeling.

After a few minutes, we got down and began looking for the buck. We quickly found him shot through both lungs. Even that reduced power .308 Winchester load did a number on him: the buck ran less than 25 yards after the shot. With just six points, he was not a big deer by any stretch of the imagination. However, I was a very happy young man that day and I still look back upon the hunt where I got my first deer fondly. I have plenty of larger and more impressive trophies hanging in my office, but I still proudly display the antlers from that little buck on the wall. There is no feeling like the first time and on that cold day in December I took my first step into the world of big game hunting.

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