The best trail camera for battery life depends on various factors such as the camera’s power consumption, battery capacity, and usage patterns. However, some popular trail cameras known for their long battery life include the Browning Strike Force HD Pro X, Bushnell Core DS No Glow, and Reconyx HyperFire 2. These cameras often utilize efficient power management systems and low-power components to extend battery life. It is recommended to consider factors like battery type, camera settings, and environmental conditions when choosing a trail camera for optimal battery performance.

1、 “Battery Life: Key Considerations for Trail Cameras”

When it comes to trail cameras, battery life is a crucial factor to consider. After all, you want a camera that can capture images and videos for an extended period without constantly needing battery replacements or recharging. So, what is the best trail camera for battery life?

There are several trail cameras on the market that offer impressive battery life. One popular option is the Browning Strike Force HD Pro X. This camera boasts an exceptional battery life, allowing it to capture images and videos for months on end. It utilizes eight AA batteries and has a power-saving mode that conserves energy when the camera is not in use.

Another top contender is the Bushnell Core DS No Glow Trail Camera. This camera is known for its long battery life, thanks to its dual sensor technology and efficient power management system. It can last for several months on a single set of AA batteries, making it an excellent choice for long-term surveillance.

The latest advancements in trail camera technology have also introduced solar-powered options. These cameras come with built-in solar panels that recharge the batteries using sunlight. One notable example is the Spypoint Solar-Dark Trail Camera. It combines a high-quality camera with a solar panel, ensuring that the batteries stay charged even in remote locations.

It’s important to note that battery life can vary depending on factors such as camera settings, temperature, and the number of images or videos captured. However, the aforementioned trail cameras are known for their exceptional battery life and are highly recommended by outdoor enthusiasts and professionals alike.

In conclusion, when looking for the best trail camera for battery life, consider options like the Browning Strike Force HD Pro X, Bushnell Core DS No Glow, and solar-powered cameras like the Spypoint Solar-Dark. These cameras offer impressive battery life and are designed to withstand the demands of outdoor use.

2、 “Top Trail Cameras with Longest Battery Life”

The best trail camera for battery life is a crucial consideration for wildlife enthusiasts and hunters who want to capture high-quality images and videos without constantly replacing batteries. While there are several trail cameras on the market, we have compiled a list of the top trail cameras with the longest battery life to help you make an informed decision.

One of the leading trail cameras known for its exceptional battery life is the Browning Strike Force HD Pro X. It boasts an impressive battery life of up to 11 months on just six AA batteries. This camera also features a lightning-fast trigger speed, high-resolution images, and HD video recording capabilities.

Another top contender is the Reconyx HyperFire 2 HF2X. With its unique NoGlow Gen3 High Output Infrared technology, this camera can capture high-quality images and videos while conserving battery power. It can last up to one year on 12 AA batteries, making it an excellent choice for long-term surveillance.

The Bushnell Core DS No Glow is also worth mentioning. It offers an extended battery life of up to one year on just six AA batteries. This camera is equipped with dual sensors, allowing for faster trigger speeds and improved image quality.

In recent years, advancements in technology have led to the development of solar-powered trail cameras. These cameras utilize solar panels to recharge their batteries, significantly extending their battery life. The Spypoint Solar-Dark and the Stealth Cam DS4K Max are two popular options in this category.

It’s important to note that battery life can vary depending on factors such as camera settings, temperature, and usage. However, the trail cameras mentioned above have consistently proven to have the longest battery life in their respective categories.

When choosing a trail camera, it’s essential to consider your specific needs and budget. Whether you prioritize battery life, image quality, or other features, these top trail cameras will undoubtedly provide you with reliable performance and long-lasting battery power.

3、 “Comparing Battery Life of Popular Trail Camera Brands”

When it comes to trail cameras, battery life is a crucial factor to consider. After all, you want a camera that can last for an extended period without needing frequent battery changes. While there are several trail camera brands on the market, it’s essential to compare their battery life to determine the best option for your needs.

One popular trail camera brand known for its exceptional battery life is Browning. Their cameras often feature long-lasting batteries that can endure months of use before needing replacement. Additionally, Browning trail cameras utilize efficient power-saving technology, allowing them to conserve battery life while still capturing high-quality images and videos.

Another brand worth mentioning is Bushnell. They offer trail cameras with impressive battery life, ensuring that you won’t have to worry about constantly changing batteries. Bushnell cameras also come with various power-saving features, such as adjustable trigger intervals and low-power consumption modes, further extending their battery life.

Moultrie is another reputable brand known for its reliable trail cameras with excellent battery life. Their cameras often feature long-lasting batteries that can withstand extended periods of use. Moultrie also offers external power options, such as solar panels and battery packs, which can significantly extend the camera’s battery life.

It’s important to note that technology is constantly evolving, and new trail camera models are regularly released with improved battery life. Therefore, it’s advisable to stay updated with the latest releases and customer reviews to ensure you’re making an informed decision.

In conclusion, when comparing the battery life of popular trail camera brands, Browning, Bushnell, and Moultrie are known for their exceptional battery performance. However, it’s always recommended to research the latest models and customer feedback to determine the best trail camera for your specific needs.

4、 “Tips for Maximizing Battery Life on Trail Cameras”

The best trail camera for battery life is a subjective question as it depends on individual needs and preferences. However, there are several trail cameras on the market that are known for their exceptional battery life. Some popular options include the Browning Strike Force HD Pro, the Bushnell Trophy Cam HD Aggressor, and the Reconyx HyperFire 2.

These trail cameras are designed with energy-efficient features that help maximize battery life. They often use low-power consumption technology, such as infrared LEDs for night vision, which consume less energy compared to traditional flash systems. Additionally, they may have adjustable settings for trigger intervals and detection ranges, allowing users to customize the camera’s activity and conserve battery power.

To further maximize battery life on trail cameras, there are a few tips to keep in mind. Firstly, using lithium batteries instead of alkaline batteries can significantly extend the camera’s runtime. Lithium batteries have a longer lifespan and perform better in extreme temperatures. Secondly, reducing the number of photos or videos taken per trigger can help conserve battery power. Adjusting the camera’s sensitivity settings can help achieve this. Lastly, regularly checking and cleaning the camera’s lens and sensors can ensure optimal performance and prevent false triggers, which can drain the battery unnecessarily.

It’s important to note that technology is constantly evolving, and new trail cameras with improved battery life are regularly introduced to the market. Therefore, it’s recommended to research and compare the latest models and read customer reviews to find the best trail camera for battery life that suits your specific needs.

My thoughts on venomous snakes are well known among my hunting buddies. I think they have just as much right to be in the woods as I do. As a rule, I leave them alone and let them go about their snake lives while I go about mine. Growing up in an area with more than a few rattlesnakes and as dense a population of copperheads as anywhere I have ever traveled, I learned to watch for them at an early age.

That said, I’m a realist, and I know a lot of people don’t want them around their property, especially if children, livestock, or pets are in the area. So, any time I find out someone might be prone to killing a rattlesnake around their property, I always ask them to put them on ice and give me a call. Why, you might ask? Because rattlesnakes are delicious.

We’ve talked about frying them before here. But they are pretty good slow-smoked on the Traeger grill as well.

(Don’t miss: Deep-Fried Spicy Rattlesnake Recipe)

We’ve also talked about safety. Most people who get bitten by a venomous snake do so because they are messing with it. Don’t do that. Also, freshly killed rattlesnakes can still bite and can still inject venom. If you do kill one, use an ax, a shovel, or a machete to remove the head from a safe distance if the snake is freshly dead. If the snake has been frozen or on ice for a while, you are a little safer, but I still don’t like handling the business end of one. I don’t like to leave the heads where curious children or my dogs can pick it up, so I usually lop it off with a shovel, then dig a hole and use that same shovel to pick up the head and drop it into the hole and bury it.

If you’ve never skinned a rattlesnake, you can see the steps involved here. Once you get the snake skinned, vacuum seal and freeze it for storage, or go ahead and cook it right away. Rattlesnakes have a pretty short shelf life, even refrigerated.

(Don’t miss: How to Skin and Prepare a Rattlesnake for the Table)

Another concern with snakes is that they often carry salmonella. I wear disposable gloves while cleaning the snake, wash knives and cutting boards well with hot, soapy water afterward, and always cook to at least 160 degrees Fahrenheit internal temperature.

As far as the actual process of barbecuing a snake goes, there isn’t much to it. Skin the snake, remove the entrails, and rinse it well. Coat all surfaces of the snake well with your favorite BBQ rub. I used a combination of Traeger Big Game Rub and Traeger Fin & Feather.

Since snakes are shaped like, well, snakes, they can dry out pretty quickly at longer cooking times. To help combat this, I like to roll the snake up in concentric circles, and pin it together with a wooden skewer. Start from the tail section and roll the snake around itself, ending with head end on the outside. Run a wooden skewer in from the side to pin the rings together.

Move the rolled snake to a preheated Traeger grill with the temperature set at 225 degrees. Turn the SuperSmoke function on for more smoky flavor. About an hour into the cook, brush the snake with your favorite BBQ sauce. I used Traeger Texas Spicy for this one because it seemed like a perfect fit. Repeat the sauce every 15 minutes for the remainder of the cook.

Smoke the snake for 2 to 3 hours, or until a meat thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the meat reads 160 degrees. Rest the snake, loosely tented with foil, for 10 minutes or so before serving.

To serve, remove the wooden skewer and cut the snake into individual 4- to 5-inch sections, or just serve the snake on a cutting board or platter and let your guests pick the meat from the bones. Most of the meat will lie along the backbone, kind of a backstrap, so to speak, but you can also get meat from around the rib bones and along the belly.

We like to serve it with a cold beer for an appetizer.

(Hunt in any weather: Men’s Insulated Max-5 Waterproof Parka)

Catching stocked trout can be easy if you know what the best bait is that stocked trout respond to. Some baits for catching trout from shore and on the water. Factors such as the weather to how long the trout have been in the water can affect the choice of the best lure.

Stocked Trout at the Hatchery

Top Lures for Catching Trout in a Pond or Lake

1. Fishing Spoons
2. Inline Spinners
3. Berkeley PowerBait Floating Mice Tails

Best Lures for Catching Rainbow Trout

Berkley PowerBait Floating Mice Tails

PowerBait Mice Tails are worm shaped rubber lures that have a round “head” in a contrasting color.

They are called Floating Mice Tails because they are meant to be fished with a slip sinker rig that lets it float 8 to 16 inches from the bottom of the lake, reservoir or pond.

PowerBait Floating Mice Tails

White, pink, fluorescent green and orange are top fish catching colors for me. Brown is a good color if fishing clear water and the day is cloudless.

Read More: PowerBait Mice Tails

In addition to fishing these with a slip sinker rig, they can also be put onto a line that has a split shot sinker tied to 8 to 16 inches above it.

What that means is you tie the hook at the end of your fishing line, slip the mice tail onto the hook, then about eight to sixteen inches above that, you crimp on a split shot sinker.

It’s a fast way to rig up mice tails but it could result in some line twist.

Fishing Spoons for Catching Trout

One of my favorite ways of catching trout is with a spoon. What I do is set up a PowerBait rig on one pole then with another pole start casting a spoon.

In my personal experience, catching stocked trout with a fishing spoon can be one of the most effective ways to catch fish.

Top Fishing Spoons for Catching Trout in a Pond or Lake

• Kastmaster Spoons
• Mepps Little Wolf
• Thomas Buoyant
• Super Duper Spoon

Spoons have different qualities and uses. Here’s a list of the best spoons for catching trout and with a description of how the fishing spoons work.

Super Duper Trout Spoon

The Super Duper is, in my opinion, a finesse type spoon. They’re very light and require ultralight fishing gear. In my experience, trout seem to attack it aggressively when nothing else seems to be working.

Thomas Buoyant Fishing Spoons Trout Lure

The Thomas Buoyant spoons are great spoons for catching trout. Use a small size like about 1/8 ounce or even lighter if you have ultralight fishing gear. I have caught countless trout with the Thomas Buoyant spoon.

The reason it works so well is because the shape of the spoon allows it to be fished relatively slowly without it sinking to the bottom. That’s something that cannot be done with a Kastmaster.

Kastmaster Spoons

Kastmaster spoons are fantastic spoons, too. What makes these spoons useful for catching trout is that they cast very far. Their aerodynamic shape helps them fly through the air farther. But that ability to cut through the air also makes it sink faster, as well.

That means you must reel it back to shore fast, which may or may not be the presentation that excites the trout. That said, I’ve caught so many fish with a Kastmaster, it really is a “must-have” lure.

Gold, silver/blue, and fluorescent orange/gold are top colors for brighter days. Firetiger is my go-to secret weapon for catching trout on cloudy days.

Mepps Little Wolf Spoon

The Little Wolf fishing spoon is one of my favorites because it has a fantastic tail-wagging action that trout seem to find irresistible. It darts left to right in a searching pattern.

Read More: Catch More Fish with Fishing Spoons

Drop Shot Fishing for Freshly Stocked Trout

An interesting way to catch stocked trout is to tie weight at the end of the fishing line, then add a hook about 12 inches above it so that the weight is at the bottom and the hook is higher up. That’s called a drop shot rig. Onto the hook you can put a three inch worm.

Then you can cast and retrieve. This works great for when trout have been freshly stocked and are swimming together in schools.

Stocked brown trout & brook trout

Brown trout & brook trout respond better to the instinctual trigger of a fleeing bait that is presented by an inline spinner, minnow shaped lure or a casting spoon.

Brown trout also more readily associate a worm with food than a stocked rainbow trout.

A meal worm or a hook laden with squirming little worms will trigger an enthusiastic lunge from a brown trout or a brook trout.

How to Catch Freshly Planted Trout

Notice how I keep repeating the phrase, freshly planted? When you read that phrase, please take it to mean that what I’m writing doesn’t necessarily hold true for trout that have been planted a month or more previously. A rainbow trout that has been in the lake or river for a few weeks will respond to real food like a worm.

How Stocked Trout Behave

Freshly stocked trout tend to swim in schools. If you are at a stocked reservoir, pond or river and see schools of trout swimming by, odds are that the lake has recently been recently stocked. Schooling is a behavior that comes from habit. Trout are raised in long oval shaped pools about two feet high. There is an artificial current in it and they tend to swim in circles, often counter clockwise. There is also netting above their pools to prevent birds of prey from swooping down on them.

The above is important information to know. It explains the behavior of trout after they’re planted. Stocked trout tend to keep close to shore, perhaps seeking the comfort of the edge they had been used to from being in the pool. They also tend to prefer swimming about eighteen inches from the surface or eighteen inches from the bottom. This means that if you are going to float a fishing fly or other bait under a bobber, rigging the lure about eighteen inches below the bobber is a good start. This is true when the temperature of the water is optimal.

When it starts to get warmer or time passes, trout tend to hover about eighteen inches to two feet above the bottom of the lake, often just a short cast from shore.

If you’re fishing a sliding slip sinker rig and are not sure at what depth the trout are holding at, start at twelve inches for one pole and eighteen inches for another pole. Then gradually increase the length up to about two feet.

The thing about trout swimming counter clockwise is also important, particularly to anglers who are trolling bait.

If you want to trigger an instinctual chase response, try circling your boat or kayak in a counter clockwise direction, that way your lure will pass them from behind.

If you are drifting bait with a current, particularly in a river, then the natural movement is casting upstream and allowing the bait to float and tumble downstream to where the stocked fish are holding.

After time has passed, rainbow trout begin to regain instinctual behavior such as shyness, staying close to the bottom, feeding on insects and relating to structure.

Examples of structures that fish seek are steep drops from shallow to deep, boulders, underwater trees, underwater currents, breaks in currents that create an area of calm water, shade etc. After time has passed, a rainbow trout will be able to be caught with lures with lively action and live bait. Stocked brook trout and brown trout consistently respond to movement, the action of a lure, as well as to the size.

What Fishing Flies to Use to Catch Stocked Trout

For fly fishing, flies such as the Cove Pheasant Tail, brown Wooly Bugger, natural colored Gold Ribbed Hare’s Ear fly, AP Emerger and other similar nymph type flies will take trout.

I think it’s because, combined with the way they are presented in stillwater (i.e. lakes and ponds) they resemble the general profile of trout food. Both the Cove Pheasant Tail fishing fly and the AP Emerger are well regarded flies for stillwater, with the Cove having been created specifically for stocked trout in reservoirs. In my opinion it’s no coincidence they resemble in color, size and presentation the general profile of trout pellets splashing down, particularly when two or three flies are tied in tandem.

What is Best Color PowerBait Dough for Catching Stocked Rainbow Trout?

There are many colors to choose from. Just keep in mind that white is a color that can be seen regardless of depth, regardless of how sunny or overcast the weather and without regard to whether the water is clear or murky. If you can only choose one color, white is the best color to choose because of how visible it is- and getting your bait noticed is one of the important keys to catching fish with dough since dough does not have fish attracting action. Other colors can be useful too, such as fluorescent for overcast days and pretty much anything for clear water.

Perhaps just as important as color is how light your hook is (will it float when smeared in trout dough?), making sure your bait ball isn’t too big, floating it at the right depth and casting it not too far from shore (although sometimes a long cast is necessary). These are rigged using a slip sinker rig.

Best Time of Day to Catch Stocked Trout

The best time to fish for stocked trout is during the early morning hours or about three hours after the brightest time of day, roughly between 3 PM and sundown. Stocked brown trout are especially active in the early morning and closer to sundown. Stocked rainbow trout can be triggered to bite bait all day if it’s cloudy.

While stocked trout can be caught at most times of day, anyone who is observant will notice that there are certain times of day where the fishing seems to “turn on” and many around a lake begin catching.

These are the best times to catch trout:

• Trout Dislike Bright Sun Fish during times of day when it’s not bright.
• Bugs tend to hatch at certain times of day, triggering feeding behavior
• Stocked trout are fed once a day, usually in the late afternoon. They are conditioned to be fed at this time of day.

Rule of thumb, fish for stocked trout on either side of high noon when the sun is at its brightest.

If you have any questions please contact me. I would be more than happy to write a post answering your questions!

Have a great time catching fish!

Roger

The popularity of hunting from ground blinds, like a pallet deer blind, has grown tremendously in the past few years. When placed in a strategic location, a ground blind can offer the most exciting close encounters with deer and other game that a hunter could hope for. This is especially true when the blind is left in place for a long period of time, allowing the animals to get used to seeing it.

I set up a doghouse-style pop-up blind in what I thought would be a good spot early one deer season, then left it alone and never went to it until the next season. The first morning I hunted it, I had a bobcat walk by within 20 feet, a young six-point buck slowly grazing by at about 20 feet, and a very nice eight-point buck working a scrape about 60 yards away.

None of the critters knew I was sitting there.

The only downside of leaving a portable blind in place for a long time is the effects that Mother Nature has on it. Later in the year after that memorable hunt, my blind started to fall apart (literally) from overexposure to sunlight, wind, and rain.

However, I was so pleased with the success of my earlier hunt out of it that I decided to investigate the possibilities of a more permanent ground blind. That’s how I came up with my version of the pallet deer blind.

Easy Pallet Deer Blind

The pallet deer blind is just that—a blind made from shipping pallets. Most of us are currently interested in saving a few dollars on hunting equipment whenever possible, and pallets are usually free for the asking.

In fact, most businesses are happy to have someone haul them away. Just be sure to ask permission. Never assume the pallets are free for the taking when you see them sitting there. Some businesses reuse them. Or the pallets may have been promised to another person. But I assure you there are plenty of free ones out there if you’re willing to do a little legwork to find them.

Once you find the pallets, you will need a way to haul them to your hunting camp. A few hand tools plus a little knowledge in carpentry and you are good to go.

A full-height blind works well on an elevated platform when you don’t need as much concealment. Wrap it in burlap and screw a few leafy branches to it. You will be amazed at how well it blends with natural surroundings.

Here is the full height version of the one-man blind. Just screw three more pallets on top (with the shooting windows already cut out):

The one-man, full-height blind consists of six pallets, two 2×2 corner strips, and a handful of wood screws. I also recommend finding a few scrap pieces of treated 2×4 blocking to set it on so that the untreated wood is not sitting directly on the ground. The best plan is to have all your pieces cut and ready to assemble prior to going into the woods with it. Then all you need is a cordless screwdriver and you can erect the blind at your hunting spot in less than 10 minutes.

Once the blind is erected, it’s time to use your imagination. Remember, it’s a blind made of wood. You can do virtually anything with it. You need a bow hanger? Screw in a hook wherever you want. Need a shelf or two? Screw in some shelves. Want a roof on it? Get a couple of wood slats and a scrap piece of tarp.

You can also make it warmer and keep the wind off of you. Just staple roofing felt around the inside or outside of it. Then wrap it with camo burlap, screw some leafy branches to it (or pine limbs), erect it on an elevated platform and you have a shooting house instead of a ground blind.

Add another stack of two pallets to the front side and now you’ve got a two-man blind. Be creative and have fun. The sky is the limit and you’ll have a really nice, almost free, hunting blind that will last a long, long time.

Homemade Pallet Deer Blind Plans

Here’s a diagram of the standard shipping pallet that works best and a simple instruction diagram on how to build a one-man, full-height blind:

One tip that will make this easier and faster for you is to get six pallets that are all the same dimension. Once you go in search of free pallets, you’ll quickly find out that there are several different sizes and configurations, but you can come up with six of the same after a little searching. And even if you don’t find six matching pallets, you can still make it work with a little creative cutting and shimming.

If you’d like to have a free copy of these pallet deer blind plans, as well as instructions for two other variations of the pallet blind: the two-man, full-height blind and the half-height pallet blind, please fill out the form below.

Full Disclosure: This post may include affiliate links. There’s no extra charge to our readers for using these.

Shades of Blue

A quick search of the internet can bring up a lot of Jeep Wrangler forum discussion and personal opinion about the closest paint color match for the Wrangler 4XE blue decal and tow hook colors. We’ve seen suggestions of Electric Blue (PB5), Hydro Blue (PBJ), Surf Blue (PQD), and Chief Blue (PQB). A few places have mentioned a Lagoon Blue, but we couldn’t find a paint code for that. Which one is it and who is correct?

4XE Blue Accent Color

Initially we were certain it was Electric Blue. Why? Because Jeep® themselves were calling it Electric Blue, and that makes sense, right? After all, it is an electric vehicle! What we discovered was that even Jeep® doesn’t seem to be sure. On their 4XE build page, there is a photo of the tow hooks with a description of “electric blue tow hooks”. However when you click on the Highlights link for a build, it describes “lagoon blue tow hooks”. To further confuse the debate, Jeep® notes the Rubicon 4XE to have “surf blue interior accent stitching”.

Several places report that the tow hooks and exterior design accents on pre-production 4XE Rubicons were electric blue. However, in current production, the tow hooks are a lighter color similar to Chief Blue. To complicate the decision further, we’ve discovered that the hood decals, badge and tow hooks are actually each a different shade of blue!

Color Matching 4XE Accessories

What better way to match the blue accessories on the 4XE than to actually compare painted samples to the Jeep®? So, that’s what we did. We took painted samples of Electric Blue, Hydro Blue, Chief Blue, and Surf Blue to our local dealer and compared them to the hood decals, tow hooks, and badge emblem.

What we found, is that Electric Blue is definitely too dark, as is Hydro Blue. The Chief Blue comes close to the tow hooks, but is too light to match the hood decals and emblems. That left the Surf Blue Pearl which is a nearly perfect match for the emblems and decals. When looking at the tow hooks, which are not metallic like the decals, Surf Blue was still a great match. The color, even being metallic, is a like shade to the Chief and can definitely bring all the accents together, especially when looking to add more exterior, and even interior Jeep® trim.

Surf Blue Jeep® 4XE Accents

Honestly, while there is a color that is nearly perfect, they all look pretty decent and it boils down to personal preference. That said, we have found Surf Blue to be a super choice and would call it a match. Check out the Surf Blue 4XE Outlet Cover!

Whatever the Jeep color you choose, consider it a reflection of your personality and lifestyle. Your Jeep says a lot about you, and when your Jeep looks good, you feel good. Make it YOUniqely you, starting with your exterior Jeep color, and then customize from the outside in, with exterior and interior Jeep trim from Color My Jeep!

Chris Parkin puts the Bergara B14 to the test and discovers an accomplished, all-round rifle that is reasonably priced too!

PROS: Excellent trigger and overall build with intelligent stock design; The barrel showed good thermal stability with a hot cartridge burning 80gr of powder; Not light, but not too heavy for an occasional stalking trip with a biathlon sling; Stable recoil manners with or without the moderator; Very good value for money

CONS: No Left Hander

VERDICT: I really liked the 6.5 Creedmoor short action HMR, and this big boomer shows how inherently sound the overall design is when submitted to more recoil. I can’t wait to see the short 22-250 which will be a cracking varminter

TECH SPECS

Overall length – 1200mm/47.25”

Weight – 4.6kg/10.2lbs

Magazine capacity – 5+1

Trigger – Single stage, 950gr break

Barrel length – 660mm/26”, 1 in 10” twist, button Rifled

Stock material – Injection moulded polymer with integral aluminium bedding block and skeleton

Length of Pull – 335mm/13.2”- 365mm/14.4”

RRP

Bergara BMP 6.5 Creedmoor – £1127

Kahles K624i – £2550.00

Hausken WD60, Tier One Picatinny rail and 34mm Rings, RWS, Norma and GECO Ammunition

Contact – RUAG, 01579 362319, www.ruag.co.uk

ALSO USED

Hornady 165 GMX and BTSP Interlock ammunition

Hornady Edgar Brothers 01625 613177 www.edgarbrothers.com

IN DEPTH TEST AND REVIEW

After shooting B14 sporting rifles and the BMP chassis rifle in 6.5 Creedmoor, I was fortunate to be loaned an HMR in the same calibre for a longer trial and video review. The HMR format impressed me as much as I suspected it would when I first saw it at the British Shooting Show in 2017.

I heard a lot of chatter about a long-action version chambered in .300 Win Mag which was set to appear in the US to massive fanfare – the Creedmoor was already showing sales beyond Bergara’s manufacturing capacity.

The .300 WM appeared at BSS 2018 and I was quick to get one ordered. It shows the same build and differences as the regular short-action rifle does to a Remington 700, with a single-stack magazine holding five rounds being the only difference other than bolt travel.

A 26” No.5 profile barrel (19mm at the muzzle) is an ideal companion for a longer-range rifle hoping to achieve the most velocity from a cartridge burning around 80gr of powder and driving .30-cal bullets from 110 to 230gr, a 180-grainer likely to be projected at a speed approaching 3,000 feet per second (914m/s).

The stock is an injection-moulded polymer vertical grip design showing similar ergonomics to a Macmillan A5. It has an adjustable cheekpiece with forceful thumbscrew to lock it in place and marking lines on the front post to indicate position.

You can shoot thumb up or wrapped around the vertical pistol grip carrying moulded stippling. Three 10mm spacers are fitted to adjust length of pull between the maximum 365mm (14.4”), down to 335mm (13.2”) which will suit most shooters. Reach to the single-stage trigger is perfectly specified, allowing your index finger pad to sit relaxed with a trigger pull directed toward the centre of the recoil pad in your shoulder for minimal aiming disturbance. Any aftermarket Remington compatible unit will fit but you are unlikely to need it: mine had a fraction of discernible creep that soon bedded in to virtually nothing with a reliably predictable break of 950g.

The twin-lug bolt opens 90° to cycle the action with an oversized, conical bolt-handle to speed up processing, adding leverage with less disturbance to the rifle’s aim. There are no ‘three rings of steel’ so famously advertised by Remington, but the action shows a single Sako-style extractor claw rather than the internal circlip of its forefather.

Primary extraction of the large 62,000 Psi (CIP) belted magnum is plentiful, although the sprung plunger in the bolt-face is quite delicate in its ejection, the cases not thrown more than 30cm laterally from the gun (a factor I also found on the Creedmoor even with its smaller, lighter case).

The action and floorplate are seated within the stock with a recoil lug sandwiched at the front between the receiver and threaded barrel. I like the Bergara update of enclosing this lug within the action’s face to ensure it will return exactly to position if you ever have a barrel change. I especially like the aluminium skeleton moulded within the polymer stock, extending from the grip to the tip of the fore-end from the machined bedding block the action sits in. Twin-action screws fasten everything in place and I was pleased to see no stress applied to the action when they were tightened to 65”/lb.

Each round is push-fed from the magazine up the feed ramp into the chamber and, like all long-action rounds, feed and reliability is that little bit more assured than shorter cases with a correspondingly shorter overall length to jump the ‘moat’ formed by the bolt’s locking abutments.

RUAG kindly supplied me with a full armoury of Tier-One scope rings and Picatinny rail (screwed to the action with four bolts) as well as a Kahles 624i FFP optic well suited to some long-range steel plate shooting.

I also had two Hausken sound moderators, the larger of which, a Hunter WD 60 still weighing only 414g for its 224mm length, does a fantastic job of reducing both noise and recoil. I have shot .300 WM for nearly 10 years and am well aware of its character – this moderator really impressed me!

Ammunition came from RWS, Norma (180gr Oryx), GECO (180gr SP) and Hornady (165 GMX) with a selection of polymer tipped and spitzer bullets in the 165-180gr region. These were all designed for hunting and tested for accuracy on paper to assure me of the gun’s likely capability, because were I to be seriously shooting long range, I would use a 200gr+ bullet with a B.C. above 0.6 to make the most of the .300’s capability. Unless you use 300gr bullets in a .338 Lapua, the plain old .300 can cope well out beyond 1,000m and be pushed as far as a mile, although that is stretching things significantly.

My own .300 WM driving a 208gr Hornady A-Max closely mirrors the ballistics in terms of windage and drops of my .260 Rem shooting a 139gr load to about 1,200m, yet the recoil is the major difference with the .300. I shot with the WD60 in place for most of the test as it tamed the stout cartridge well and wasn’t as disturbing as a braked muzzle.

I spent a lot of time at 300m which will interest those wanting to use such a rifle for long-range culling. None of the ammo was cloverleafing on paper at 100m, yet none threw flyers either. I did get the gun quite hot with some 15 and 20 round strings (in very cold wind chill conditions) to show the thermal consistency of Bergara’s steel.

If I were handloading, I’m confident this would have been improved upon and could have been tailored to my needs, but the 26” tube showed good velocity with little point of impact shift between any of the ammunition types at 100m.

180gr GECO developed 959m/s (3,147 fps/3,959 ft/lb), the largest energy output with the similar 180gr Oryx lagging a little with 882m/s (2,894 fps/3,348 ft/lb). Hornady 165gr GMX developed 957m/s (3,141 fps/3,615 ft/lb) with the best consistency out to 400m for elevation and wind resistance on steel targets but none were a disappointment.

After a good clean, a second experiment on paper actually showed some RWS Doppelkern to have the most consistent accuracy, with two sequential cloverleaf groups of five rounds, whereas all the rest stuck into the ¾” bracket and stayed that way.

I wouldn’t normally have set off to the range to shoot over 100 rounds of .300, but this gun was a soft shooter. The heavier bullets were detectable with a shade more recoil, but even so, the superb moderator and versatile length of pull adjustment in the stock allowed repetitive hold, aim and recoil control, and the trigger was a blessing.

To be honest, I would like to have kept the 6.5 Creedmoor HMR as it just oozed reloading potential and the .300 did too. Neither are expensive rifles for what they are capable of if paper and steel are your game.

On the other hand, all the ammo tested was reliable for any realistic hunting and the gun, although bulkier than a sporting rifle, was a good compromise for occasional use on game from static positions. It did shoot accurately from quad sticks with the rear butt hook wedging into position, but the steady push of recoil did lose your sight picture from a standing shot on sticks.

Fore-end stiffness was assured and the free float never wavered. If you are of bigger build, this gun might suit you perfectly for stalking as the generous length of pull without undue weight does nicely for long stalks on the hill with a biathlon sling, but it is never going to be a fast, pointable woodland rifle.

At a base weight of 4.6kg, you can add another 2.5kg for a suitable scope, mounts, bipod and moderator. With the base rifle at 47.25” long before you add a moderator (totalling 1,360mm), think carefully!

Whether you are new to hunting altogether, or are a hunting mentor to a beginner, squirrel, rabbit, pheasant, dove, goose, antelope and bear are the easiest animals to pursue for the novice.

The seven animals on this list all find themselves here for various reasons. They may be easier to locate than other game or easier to get in close to. Some of these animals require little more than an armed hunter afield to harvest, while others may require more effort or different skill sets to acquire. Let’s take a closer look.

Squirrel

Squirrel hunting is the quintessential beginner game species because they are everywhere, can be located relatively easily, can be hunted with different methods and hunted with small caliber rifles or small gauge shotguns which are both easier on new hunters.

Many seasoned hunters have cut their teeth chasing squirrels through oak forests, honing their accuracy with low-recoiling rimfire cartridges. Hunting squirrels also teaches new hunters other skills necessary to move on to larger game, such as walking through forests as quietly as possible as well as identifying camouflaged game.

Squirrels are often hunted with a spot and stalk method, where a hunter will begin by finding a squirrel rummaging the forest floor for hard mast such as acorns, or moving among the branches of the forest canopy. Squirrels can also be easily drawn into a bait pile, as hunters in states that allow baiting can attest. In this scenario, the hunter may simply still hunt a bait pile and wait for the squirrel to come in to feed, often taking them unaware.

Pheasant

Pheasants find themselves on this list primarily because they can be found in as many as 40 states, and 21 states actually stock pheasants for hunting purposes. Pheasant can be hunted with pointing dogs, but can also be done with a few friends pushing a field to flush the pheasant into the air. Pheasants are taken with shotguns, allowing for a spread of shot to help hit moving birds.

Practice with clays to hone your abilities for taking moving game. Pheasants are medium sized birds and your first flushed pheasant will present a challenging and exciting quarry. Pheasants are also very tasty table fare, adding a strong incentive to your hunt.

Mourning Dove

If the state you hunt in offers a dove season, you are in for a satisfying and educational begining hunt. Doves can be hunted by pushing fields and flushing the birds, or still hunting over a field and simply waiting for the doves to fly by as they move frequently throughout the day.

Mourning doves are small birds and are generally taken with light recoiling shotgun gauges. Though their smaller stature presents a challenging shot, they can be readily harvested with prior range practice. An upside to hunting mourning doves is the quality of their meat, which is delicious. A small group of hunters can take numerous doves, and a cookout is likely to follow your hunt.

Geese

Another migratory bird that beginning hunters can successfully harvest are the different geese species that populate North America. Geese are larger birds that generally fly in flocks, offering multiple, ample-sized targets to the hunter. An added incentive, Goose breast is a tasty meat that hunters will enjoy baked, grilled or fried.

Geese can be problematic for farm owners, who are more likely to allow access to their farms for hunters hoping to harvest these pesky birds. Geese are generally decoyed and called in to the hidden hunter who can take easier shots as the birds begin their descent to the decoy spread. Since geese are generally hunted over fields, retrieving dogs are not necessary, unlike ducks hunted over water.

Rabbit

Like squirrels, rabbits are everywhere, can be harvested using multiple techniques, and are generally taken with lighter recoiling firearms. Most rabbit species are considered excellent table fare, offering a nice reward at the end of a hunt.

Rabbits are generally harvested during a drive, either with dogs or simply with hunting partners but may also be taken using a spot and stalk method. The lighter recoiling shotguns or rimfire rifles are less daunting to beginning hunters, and moving through forest trails and agriculture fields keeps younger hunters engaged.

Antelope

If you live in a state with a healthy Antelope (Pronghorn) population, you have likely seen them grazing the flatlands. Antelope have excellent vision and are the fastest land animal in North America, but because they spend so much time out in the open, they can readily be harvested by a rifle hunter. The trick is to get as close as you can without spooking the antelope before taking a shot.

Using a spot and stalk method on antelope can teach beginning hunters about wind and how to move without detection. Antelope are medium sized game that do not require the hardest hitting rifle cartridges, allowing for newer hunters to be more accurate. Antelope is also a tasty game species.

Black Bear

Black bears are the largest and most dangerous species on this list, but can be readily brought into close range when hunting over bait piles. Not all states allow baiting, so know your regulations, but if baiting is on the table so may black bear. Be sure to cook bear meat thoroughly since, like pork, bear meat often contains a parasite called trichinosis which can survive if the meat is undercooked.

Larger game means larger caliber rifle for both ethical and efficacy reasons, so practice with the rifle you intend to take afield to ensure a successful and rewarding hunt. Remember, taking a bear at close range over bait is possible, but bears are heavy, so plan on having a friend or two ready to help break down and pack out your harvest.

Honorable Mentions:

Turkey, duck and coyote all deserve consideration as easy animals for beginning hunters.

Turkey

Turkey hunting is generally done by the individual, not in groups. If you are new to hunting and have not yet found hunting partners, turkey hunting is a solid option for a successful, solo hunt. Hunted with a shotgun and generally decoyed and called, there are some skills to learn to harvest turkey. The food quality of turkey makes these skills worth learning.

Duck

Duck species can be found all over North America, and many duck species are excellent on the dinner plate. Ducks are usually decoyed and called over water, generally necessitating a retrieving dog, and are fast on the wing. These attributes make duck hunting somewhat challenging for the beginning hunter, though this is mitigated by their numbers and range across North America.

Coyote

Not generally harvested for their culinary excellence, coyotes are still moderately easy game for new hunters based on their habitat range. Coyotes can be found in every state except Hawaii. Coyotes can be driven, hunted using spot and stalk methods but most commonly called in, baited or a combination of the two.

The following ammunition cartridge ballistics information and chart can be used to approximately compare .22 LR Long Rifle vs .22 Short ammo rounds. Please note, the following information reflects the estimated average ballistics for each caliber and does not pertain to a particular manufacturer, bullet weight, or jacketing type. As such, the following is for comparative information purposes only and should not be used to make precise predictions of the trajectory, performance, or true ballistics of any particular .22 LR Long Rifle or .22 Short rounds for hunting, target shooting, plinking, or any other usage. The decision for which round is better for a given application should be made with complete information, and this article simply serves as a comparative guide, not the final say. For more detailed ballistics information please refer to the exact round in question or contact the manufacturer for the pertinent information. True .22 LR Long Rifle and .22 Short ballistics information can vary widely from the displayed information, and it is important to understand that the particular characteristics of a given round can make a substantive difference in its true performance.

Caliber Type Velocity (fps) Energy (ft-lb) .22 LR Long Rifle Rimfire 1060 100 .22 Short Rimfire 900 50

Velocity

As illustrated in the chart, .22 LR Long Rifle rounds – on average – achieve a velocity of about 1060 feet per second (fps) while .22 Short rounds travel at a velocity of 900 fps. To put this into perspective, a Boeing 737 commercial airliner travels at a cruising speed of 600 mph, or 880 fps. That is to say, .22 LR Long Rifle bullets travel 1.2 times the speed of a 737 airplane at cruising speed, while .22 Short bullets travel 1 times that same speed.

Various calibers

Energy

Furthermore, the muzzle energy of a .22 LR Long Rifle round averages out to 100 ft-lb, while a .22 Short round averages out to about 50 ft-lb. One way to think about this is as such: a foot-pound is a unit of energy equal to the amount of energy required to raise a weight of one pound a distance of one foot. So a .22 LR Long Rifle round exits the barrel with kinetic energy equal to the energy required for linear vertical displacement of 100 pounds through a one foot distance, while a .22 Short round exiting the barrel has energy equal to the amount required to displace 50 pounds over the same one foot distance. As a rule of thumb, when it comes to hunting, muzzle energy is what many hunters look at when deciding on what caliber of firearm / ammunition to select. Generally speaking, the higher the muzzle energy, the higher the stopping power. Again, the above is for comparative information purposes only, and you should consult the exact ballistics for the particular .22 LR Long Rifle or .22 Short cartridge you’re looking at purchasing.

Please click the above links to take a look at all of the .22 LR Long Rifle and .22 Short ammo we have in stock and ready to ship, and let us know any parting thoughts in the comment section below.

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