Bear hunting with dogs brings a whole range of emotions to mind.

More specifically, the pretty controversial bear hounding.

However, there’s also another variant of bear hunting (which could actually be beneficial to wildlife).

But first, let’s explore bear hounding and why it often damages wildlife populations.

Some people disguise hounding as a service to society while others deem it a sick sport.

Even hunting advocates seem to turn their back on bear hounding because it’s not only unfair but damaging to wildlife1 and possibly their own dogs.

• Bear hounding often orphans cubs
• Being chased into trees incites incredible anxiety in the animals
• Hounds are often hurt during encounters
• Non-target animals are chased since controlling dogs over large distances is impossible
• Hunters often trespass on private property, target endangered species, or chase bears onto busy roads

Why are bear cubs orphaned?

Because hunters don’t care to check or misidentify the gender.

Sometimes, they eliminate the threat on sight when encounters with their dogs ensue.

Other times, bears are chased over miles and robbed of their energy2 which may seal their fate, just for the hunters to notice the bear is off-limits due to age or gender.

But as mentioned, bear hounding is not the only way to hunt bears with dogs.

Below, I’ve listed all the breeds suitable for bear hunting.

A lot of breeds mentioned in other articles are absolutely not suitable for hunting bears in any way, shape, or form.

What Are Bear Hunting Dog Breeds Used For?

Hounding doesn’t necessarily only serve as a sport, instead bear hunting dogs are also used in some areas to control rising bear populations, but modern non-lethal methods include Karelian Bear Dogs to scare bears away.

As the polar ice melts, the number of bears roaming northern rural regions in Russia increases3.

Naturally, this creates a conflict between the inhabitants of small towns and these massive (and endangered) Polar Bears.

All parties involved will hopefully seek out a peaceful solution instead of allowing bear hunting with dogs, especially considering that it’s us humans who are destroying their natural habitat.

North America might soon face a similar problem and wildlife and law enforcement are seeking solutions.

Until now, bears who’ve gotten too used to people are either euthanized or put far away into another territory, both far from optimal solutions.

Hounding is partly allowed to serve as “population control” but all these (partly inhumane tactics) could be replaced by an altogether different method.

Organizations such as the Wind River Bear Institute created an actionable plan that includes dogs – but in a non-lethal way.

Dogs such as the Karelian Bear Dogs4 are used to scare bears away in the following steps:

• Bears who get too close and/or too used to humans are identified
• Bear hunting dogs are brought in to scare them (resembling Coyotes out and about to steal bear cubs)
• Upon release, the dogs track the bear, bark, and nip at the bear’s heels until called back
• If the bear has gotten used to a specific spot, they trap the animal and bring in the dogs to scare them and then release
• Additional methods like firing rubber bullets can be utilized

Sadly, there’s not a lot of literature out there discussing this way of controlling bears.

Instead, most (outdated) research papers focus on traditional bear hounding and its efficacy.

Even though there aren’t a lot of resources, I’ve tried my best and compiled a list of breeds that were traditionally used and could be introduced in this more modern way below.

Any dog breed successfully working bears offers a huge upside to the old ways:

• No known injuries to the dogs
• Bears are not unnecessarily eliminated
• No compromise in safety around campgrounds and National Parks for humans
• Karelian Bears Dogs have been able to find evidence of poaching and save polar bear dens near oil or gas fields

However, not all areas (think residential) are suitable for this type of bear control.

Besides the labor to raise and train these dogs, controlling bears this way is more labor-intensive.

So now you know about hounding as well as non-lethal bear hunting with dogs, but which breeds are actually suitable?

9 Bear Hunting Dog Breeds

The best bear hunting dog breeds include the Karelian Bear Dog, Plotthound, Coonhound, Foxhound, as well as large game hunters such as the Dogo Argentino or Rhodesian Ridgeback.

Here’s the full list of dogs capable of hunting large game such as bears:

1. Karelian Bear Dog
2. Plotthound
3. Coonhound
4. American Foxhound
5. Bloodhound
6. German Shorthaired Pointer
7. German Wirehaired Pointer
8. Dogo Argentino
9. Rhodesian Ridgeback

Karelian Bear Dog

Among the top spots for dog breeds used to work bear is the Finnish black-and-white Karelian Bear Dog.

Early breed ambassadors have been recorded in other colors as well such as red-gray or pure red.

However, black-and-white emerged as the desired color since the breed standard was formulated in 1945.

The Karelian Bear Dog looks like a cross between Border Collie and Husky with some resemblance to breeds like the Samoyed or a more wolfish German Shepherd.

While working bear is their field of expertise, they can also compete in search and rescue or sled dog trials due to their sturdy double coat and endurance.

Plott Hound

Technically also among the Coonhounds, the Plott Hound has a different ancestor though.

Plott Hounds don’t descend from English Foxhounds but rather from “Hanover hounds” in Germany.

The German immigrant who brought these dogs to the US frequently hunted bears in the mountains with his dogs.

Coonhound

There are various types of Coonhounds such as the Redbone, Bluetick, Black and Tan, American English, and Treeing Walker Coonhound.

Treeing Walker Coonhounds are among the most loving of the Hounds and quite sensible hunters too.

Ever wondered where the word “treeing” comes from?

It’s because this Hound is known to trail smaller game until it climbs a tree with the dog waiting below and barking to signal the location to the hunter.

Walker comes from the breed’s creator.

This breed is also commonly used for traditional bear hunting where the dogs hunt outside the hunter’s control and often camp for quite a long time at the bottom of the tree.

American Foxhound

The American Foxhound’s robust yet sleek frame is complimented by their soft eyes.

The bark that makes bear hunters love the American Foxhound could prove detrimental to your neighbor’s ears.

So before considering one, beware of their fierce barking which can only be controlled through training and exercise to some degree.

Bloodhound

Bloodhounds are known to be among the dogs with the best sense of smell out there (that and their incredibly long ears).

Did you know that the sloppy ears are actually there to block out sound when they’re following trails?

German Shorthaired Pointer

The German Shorthaired Pointer is a versatile hunting dog.

While Pointers are usually trained to point at birds, they can theoretically be used for pursuing and barking at bears too.

German Wirehaired Pointer

German Wirehaired Pointers could be a good fit for hunting bears.

The German Wirehaired Pointer may sound and look similar to the GSP but they’re different breeds.

While their wiry coat places first on the GWPs identifiable traits, their very loving and quite independent character is a close second.

Make sure you have plenty of time and commitment to research since this is a very active breed.

Dogo Argentino

The Dogo Argentino is the first dog of the Mastiff type on this list (there are actually 22 Mastiffs in total).

Rhodesian Ridgeback

Rhodesian Ridgebacks are actually hunting lions in packs in their home country.

Contrary to popular belief, Ridgebacks don’t actually fight the lions, but they’re good at baying them.

What is the Best Bear Hunting Dog?

The best bear hunting dog is probably the Karelian Bear Dog with Hounds coming in a close second.

What the best bear hunting dog breed is also dependent upon the climate and geography in general.

In colder climates, the Siberian Laika was commonly used for hunting and/or baying bears while Hounds are more suitable and widely available in the USA.

In theory, many other dog breeds such as large game hunters or pointers could be trained to do parts of working bear but they’re not bred specifically for this purpose.

They are bred for a variety of work though and technically could be used for working bears in a non-lethal way.

Are Karelian Bear Dogs Rare?

Karelian Bear Dogs are rare as household pets in the US while they are consistently among the top 10 in their home country Finland5.

In Finland, there are over 1000 Finnish Hounds (i.e. Karelian Bear Dogs) registered each year which puts them at spot number 7 for the most popular breeds in 2019 and 20206.

At least 700 KBDs were registered in Finland for over a decade now.

That being said, there were 50,000 registrations in total so that puts the KBD only at about 2% of the total registrations.

As of July 2024, the database has not been updated with current registration numbers.

Everywhere else in the world, it’s safe to say that the KBD is pretty rare except for countries with increasing bear populations (even then, it’s not guaranteed).

Besides North America – where hunting is regulated by each state – and Northern Europe where the KBD is used for elks, Asia and Russia come to mind but there have been no reports of the KBD being common there.

The fact of the matter is that bear dogs may save lives. Look no further than what they did in Washington.7

Sources

1. Humane Society: Facts about bear hounding (…) ↩︎
2. ResearchGate, 2019: Behavioral and Physiological Responses of Scandinavian Brown Bears (Ursus arctos) to Dog Hunts (…) ↩︎
3. Phys.org, 2019: Weak Arctic ice sees 56 polar bears descend on Russian village ↩︎
4. Beardogs.org: KBD history ↩︎
5. Finnish Kennel Club: Karelian Bear Dog ↩︎
6. Finnish Kennel Club, 2020: KBD registration numbers ↩︎
7. Spokesman-Review (Washington newspaper), 2019: Washington’s first Karelian Bear Dogs, credited with busting poachers and saving kittens, die ↩︎

Disclaimer: This blog post does not substitute veterinary attention and does not intend to do so. I am not a veterinarian or pet nutritionist. If your dog shows any sign of illness, call your vet.

Walleye fishing is a popular and enjoyable activity for anglers across the world. One of the most effective techniques for catching walleye is using jigs.

Walleye jigs are specially designed lures that mimic the natural movements of prey fish, which walleye typically feed on. They are available in various shapes, sizes, and colors, and each has its unique features that make it effective in certain fishing conditions.

Whether you are a seasoned angler or a beginner, understanding the different types of jigs, how to choose the right one, and how to use them can significantly increase your chances of a successful catch.

In this article, we will cover everything you need to know about walleye jigs, including the different types, factors to consider when choosing them, tips for using them, and the best ones to use in different water conditions.

Types of Walleye Jigs

Walleye jigs come in various shapes, sizes, and styles, and each has its unique characteristics that make it effective in certain fishing conditions. Here are some of the most popular types of walleye jigs:

Roundhead Walleye Jigs

Roundhead jigs are the most common type of walleye jig. They have a round head and a single hook and are available in various sizes and weights. They are versatile and can be used in a wide range of fishing conditions.

Standup Walleye Jigs

Standup jigs have a flat-bottomed head and a vertical line tie that causes them to stand upright on the bottom. They are effective in rocky areas and can also be used in weeds.

Weedless Walleye Jigs

Weedless jigs are designed to be fished in weedy areas without getting caught up in the vegetation. They have a hook that is recessed in the jig’s body, making it difficult for weeds to snag it.

Swimbait Walleye Jigs

Swimbait jigs are similar to roundhead jigs but have a longer shank and a wider gap hook. They are used with soft plastic swimbaits and are effective when fishing in deeper water.

Bucktail Walleye Jigs

Bucktail jigs are made with a hair or feather skirt and are effective in clear water. They mimic the movements of baitfish and are best used with a slow retrieve.

Factors to Consider When Choosing a Walleye Jig

Choosing the right walleye jig is essential for a successful fishing trip. Here are some factors to consider when selecting a walleye jig:

1. Water Depth The depth of the water you’re fishing in is an important consideration when choosing a jig. Roundhead jigs are effective in shallow water, while standup jigs work best in deeper water. Swimbait jigs and blade baits are ideal for fishing in depths of 20 feet or more.
2. Water Clarity The clarity of the water also plays a crucial role in jig selection. In clear water, use jigs with natural colors and avoid using ones with bright colors that might spook the fish. In murky water, use jigs with bright colors that stand out and attract the fish.
3. Time of Day and Season The time of day and season can also affect the effectiveness of the jig. During early mornings and late afternoons, use jigs with brighter colors to increase visibility. In the winter, when the water is colder, use smaller jigs with slower retrieves.
4. Structure of the Lake The structure of the lake, such as rocks, weeds, and drop-offs, can influence jig selection. Use weedless jigs when fishing in weedy areas to avoid getting snagged, and use standup jigs when fishing in rocky areas to prevent snagging.

Consider these factors when selecting a walleye jig, and you’ll be well on your way to hooking into some big ones.

Tips for Using Walleye Jigs

Using walleye jigs can be a highly effective way to catch fish, but it’s important to use them correctly. Here are some tips for using walleye jigs:

1. Cast and Retrieve Technique One of the most common ways to use a jig is with the cast and retrieve technique. Cast the jig out and let it sink to the bottom, then retrieve it with short, quick jerks to make the jig bounce off the bottom. Vary the speed and depth of your retrieve until you find what works best.
2. Jigging Technique Jigging is a popular technique for catching walleye with jigs. Let the jig sink to the bottom and then use a sharp upward motion of the rod tip to lift the jig off the bottom, then let it sink back down. Repeat this motion, varying the speed and intensity of the jigging until you get a bite.
3. Drift Technique Drifting is an excellent technique for covering a large area of water quickly. Simply drift with the wind or current, casting the jig out periodically and allowing it to sink to the bottom.
4. Vertical Jigging Technique Vertical jigging is an effective technique for fishing in deep water. Position your boat over the desired spot and drop the jig straight down, letting it fall to the bottom. Then, use an upward motion of the rod tip to lift the jig off the bottom and repeat the motion until you get a bite.

By using these techniques, you’ll be able to catch walleye with jigs more effectively. Don’t be afraid to experiment with different techniques until you find what works best for you.

Best Walleye Jigs to Use

Selecting the right jig can make all the difference in your walleye fishing success. Here are some recommendations for the best walleye jigs to use:

1. Northland Fishing Tackle Fire-Ball Jig: The Fire-Ball Jig is a versatile and effective jig that is designed to imitate the movements of baitfish. It has a short-shank hook that allows you to thread on a live minnow or soft plastic bait. It’s available in various colors and sizes and is ideal for fishing in shallow to mid-depth water.
2. Rapala Jigging Rap: The Jigging Rap is a popular jigging lure that features a balanced design and a center treble hook. It mimics the movement of a dying baitfish and is effective in both shallow and deep water. It’s available in various sizes and colors.
3. VMC Neon Moon Eye Jig: The Neon Moon Eye Jig is a versatile jig that features a unique 3D holographic eye and a super sharp hook. It’s available in various sizes and colors and is ideal for fishing in clear water.
4. B-Fish-N Tackle H2O Precision Jigs: The H2O Precision Jig is a high-quality jig that features a custom-designed head and a super sharp hook. It’s ideal for fishing in weeds and can be used with live bait or soft plastics. It’s available in various sizes and colors.
5. Keitech Tungsten Super Round Jig Head: The Super Round Jig Head is a weedless jig that features a tungsten head and a screw-lock bait keeper. It’s available in various sizes and is ideal for fishing in weedy areas.

These are just a few of the best walleye jigs to use. When selecting a jig, consider the water conditions and factors outlined in section III, and choose a jig that best fits your needs. Remember to experiment with different jigs and techniques until you find what works best for you.

Conclusion

Fishing for walleye with jigs can be a thriling and rewarding experience, but it takes knowledge and skill to be successful. By understanding the different types of walleye jigs, the factors to consider when choosing them, and the tips for using them effectively, you’ll significantly increase your chances of catching more fish.

Remember to select a jig that best fits your needs based on the water conditions and factors outlined in this article. Finally, don’t be afraid to experiment with different jigs and techniques until you find what works best for you. With the right knowledge, skills, and equipment, you’ll be well on your way to reeling in the big ones and enjoying epic fishing adventures.

For 25 years Green Bay Trophy Fishing has guided and provided helpful information to anglers in and around Door County. We are some of the most experienced fishing guides in Green Bay and pride ourselves on being experts on everything related to fishing in the area.

If you are interested in booking a walleye fishing charter, you can view our rates or contact us here.

This article contains affiliate links. We may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links.

Vortex has a reputation of producing high-quality rifle scopes in a budget range that every buyer can afford. The best thing is, you don’t have to pay extra to get their VIP warranty, and you don’t have to wonder if you’re getting the best price.

Vortex scopes consistently hold their value as they’ve proven to be rugged, reliable, and accurate machines – as you will see in our Vortex optics reviews.

Whether it’s entry-level quality, a premium, HD scope, or something in between, you can expect you’re getting the absolute best in your price range.

Vortex – they’re doing their job: providing you with quality options. It’s time you do yours – make sure you buy a scope that is as ready as you are for every situation you’re brave enough to face, be it in the field, hunt, or at the range.

Best Vortex Scopes

Vortex Rifle Scope Reviews

1. Crossfire II 3-9X40 Review

The 3-9×40 specs never fail when you plan on using the same scope for a range of shooting applications. It’s also the easy pick in a lineup of similarly priced scopes because it’s made with high-performance quality iconic to the Crossfire II series.

Pros:

• Price
• BDC reticle
• FMC optics
• Capped/resettable turrets
• Fog/waterproof

Cons:

• Canted reticles

Take this thing out to the range or the field since you can holdover out to 500 yards with hashmarks for winddrift too. It’s easy to do with 60 MOA in travel adjustment, 1/4 MOA clicks, and the dead-hold BDC reticle. Once you’re sighted-in to your 100-yard zero, reset your turrets to “0” without any tools required.

With FMC (fully multi-coated) optics, a fast-focus eyepiece, and 3.8″ of eye relief, you’re all set to get Vortex image quality.

Unfortunately, canted reticles either happen at the range or out of the box – clearly a defect that Vortex’s VIP warranty can take care of. Good thing, it’s not the trend.

This isn’t a cheap scope like every other one in the market with a similar price tag. It’s a high-performing one with unmatched warranty coverage for range, tactical, and hunting use. For as popular as it is, it’s a good bet you know someone with this very scope on their rig – that’s why you’re here!

2. Strike Eagle 1-6X24 Review

Sporting an AR-15? For close to mid-range hunting, patrol, or law enforcement applications, the Strike Eagle 1-6x scope was made for it. With low variable power, an AR-BDC 5.56 reticle, and some high-end features to brag about, this scope is bound to please.

Pros:

• Price
• Glass-etched reticle
• Illuminated reticle
• AR-BDC reticle
• 30 mm tube

Cons:

• Restricting eyebox

There’s some anecdotal evidence that the Strike Eagle (SE) has an unforgiving eyebox. If you plan on shooting in 3-gun comps with the SE, you mightn’t appreciate the tight parameters to achieve the right eye-to-image alignment.

Fortunately, most buyers don’t experience any optical issues, and the glass-etched, illuminated, AR-BDC reticle makes for effective shooting in the hunt, on patrol, or for home defense. The AR reticle is designed for the popular 5.56 mm cartridge, and the illuminated segmented circle makes for rapid target acquisition.

With 1/2 MOA adjustments, a wide and robust 30 mm tube body, and low, capped profile turrets, it’s really not a wonder why it’s an extremely popular AR scope for the price. The SE is set and ready to take a beating and bring down targets both near and far.

3. Viper HST 4-16×44 Review

The HST series of scopes is the perfect combination of the Viper PST and HS lines. Favorite features are meticulously paired together with a tactical approach, and what you end up with is the long-ranging Viper HST 4-16×44.

Pros:

• Side focus
• 30 mm tube
• 4″ long eye relief
• XD glass
• Zero Stop

Cons:

• Windage turret issues

It seems a rare occurrence of various windage turret issues plague the buyer. Anything from backwards spinning adjustments to loose turret attachments is the cause of frustration – nothing the VIP warranty can’t handle.

This is a tactical scope all the way. It has tall, exposed turrets that definitely demands attention, a robust 30 mm tube that provides 75 MOA in adjustments, and a fiber optic radius and Mag-View bar.

The VMR-1 MOA reticle has hashmarks for long-ranging shots with holdover points for wind correction. The reticle is in the SFP (second focal plane), so crosshairs will stay thin and won’t obscure your target for tight groupings at extended ranges.

With Extra-low dispersion (XD) glass elements, you’ll have minimal, if any at all, chromatic aberration and the best clarity a side focus and XR glass coatings can achieve. The CRS Zero Stop is always a much-appreciated feature.

If you’re after a feature-packed scope, the HST has a long list of them.

4. Viper PST Gen II 5-25X50 Review

Precision. Accuracy. Long-range. If there’s a scope worth pulling the trigger on, it’s with a PST Gen II scope. High magnification, FFP reticle, and optimum clarity – nothing is beyond your reach.

Pros:

• XD glass
• Glass-etched reticle
• Illuminated/FFP reticle
• RZR Zero Stop
• 30 mm tube

Cons:

• Heavy
• Stiff magnification ring

It goes without saying that this scope is heavy at 31.2 oz. It’s the trade-off for all the features and build quality in this precision rifle scope. The magnification ring has said to be stiff, and there’s some demand from buyers that a throw lever be included as an accessory which would be convenient for the wide 5-25x power range, but it’s a separate buy if you want it.

The glass-etched EBR-2C reticle is in the FFP (First Focal Plane) so you can reliably use the illuminated holdover points at any point in the magnification range. With 10 illumination intensity settings and “off” positions in between on the side focus knob, you can shoot accurately at any time of day. The RZR Zero Stop feature allows you to sight-in, set your zero, and return to it with ease whenever you dial out.

With a 30 mm tube, you have 70 available MOA elevation and 35 MOA windage adjustments. XD (Extra-low dispersion) glass elements and XR FMC Coatings work together with the large 50 mm aperture to bring the brightest and clearest image quality you can expect from Vortex.

This is a lot to have in a scope, but when you demand precision, you must demand the absolute best.

5. Razor HD Gen III 1-10×24 FFP Review

Vortex has released the Gen III Razor HD and the 1-10x is more comparable in configuration to the Razor HD Gen II-E than the Razor HD Gen II. For those who understand how FFP reticles and focusing works on an LPVO, the Razor HD Gen III 1-10x will meet and exceed your expectations.

Pros:

• LPVO
• APO/ED optics
• FFP glass-etched reticle
• Friction Reduction System
• Low capped turrets

Cons:

• Eyebox at max. mag.

The Gen III LPVO has excellent eye relief of 3.6”, however the eyebox from 8-10x (max power) has said to be unforgiving, enough so to form complaints. As expected, max magnification is better suited to those who have the time to align themselves perfectly with it.

At 1x power, the FFP reticle does get small and there is some mention of fisheye effect. The ocular focus allows for crisp reticle focus on high-powered scopes, but on an LPVO it serves to focus the image. At 1x, it’s important to use the eyepiece ring to acquire a flat image at 1x if you experience distortion. Serving as the only focusing mechanism, it has been factory-set for parallax at 150 yards.

The optics are made with an APO system, ED glass, Optically Indexed Lenses, and XR FMC coatings. It has the works to provide edge-to-edge sharpness and color-true resolution.

The reticle is glass-etched, located in the FFP, and features the EBR-9 reticle in either MOA or MRAD with drop and windage compensation. The 1 MOA dot and segmented circle are illuminated with 11 intensity levels. The third turret illumination is complete with intermittent off positions and a locking mechanism.

Turrets are capped, low profile, and have ¼ MOA adjustments. The 34mm aluminum tube houses a premium brass alloy erector tube system with a chromium vanadium spring. It supports a steel-on-steel Friction Reduction System for tactile, accurate, long-lasting turret integrity.

It has optical, mechanical, and performance quality that will serve competitors, law enforcement, and target shooters well.

Other Vortex Scope Reviews:

• Vortex Strike Eagle 1-8×24 FFP Review (Range Tested)
• Vortex Razor HD LHT 3-15×42 Riflescope Review
• Vortex Viper HS 2.5-10×44 Riflescope Review (BDC Reticle)
• Vortex Strike Eagle 1-8×24 Riflescope Review (AR-BDC3 MOA Reticle)
• Vortex Crossfire II 3-12x56mm AO Hog Hunter Rifle Scope (with V-Brite Reticle)
• Vortex Optics Diamondback 4-12×40 Second Focal Plane Rifle Scope – Dead-Hold BDC Reticle (MOA)
• Vortex Crossfire II Review – 4-12×44 Rifle Scope with Dead-Hold BDC MOA (CF2-31015)
• Vortex Optics Diamondback HP 4-16X42 Rifle Scope w/ Dead-Hold BDC Reticle (DBK-10019)
• Vortex Viper HS 4-16×50 Long Range Rifle Scope Review (VHS-4307)
• Vortex Optics Viper PST 6-24x50mm FFP Scope w/ EBR-1 MOA Reticle (PST-624F1-A)

More Vortex Optics Reviews:

• Vortex Optics Reviews: Rangefinders & Monoculars
• Vortex Binoculars Review: Our Top 5 Picks of Their Best Binoculars
• Vortex Red Dot Review: Our Pick of Their 5 Best Sights
• Vortex Spotting Scope Review: Our Pick of Their 5 Best Spotters

Source of Images: VortexOptics.com

A few years ago I wanted some new decoys and I had some shells and a couple full bodies. I had also hunted over Silos with friends, so I knew they would work. I looked at the prices and being the eternal tinkerer that I am, I said “I can make those WAY cheaper than that!” and off I went. 😀 I researched making them and did all the planning. Now I will talk to you about making your own silhouette decoys and the process for making them.

They are just made out of 4mm Corrugated cardboard, welding rods and spray paint. you get a lot of decoy for very little money and a bit of sweat equity. I bought 3 sheets of 4mm plastic cardboard from a sign shop and I think being careful spacing them and using a few magnums I got 44. If I got rid of the magnums I probably would have got over 4 dozen. The picture below has 15 here on a 4×8 sheet and I got 17 on another by not using magnum decoys.

and some of the cutout silos:

I borrowed a buddy’s silos to use as patterns. I traced his on 1/4″ plywood and used them as a pattern. I think the centers are copies of some commercially sold stuff and the two outer one are magnums. You can trace existing Silos or just draw your own patterns. If I did it again, I would probably not use the magnums again. They take a lot of space up when making the silos and in my opinion, don’t look any better in the field.

I used welding rod as I had seen some one else suggested before and melted them in so I never leave a rod in the field to blow a tracker tire as that sure to lose rights to hunt next year! I cut them out one at a time with a box cutter knife. I bough 3 sheets for $36 something in ’07 and got 15 on one and 17 on the other. I trimmed out the last sheet and ended up with 4 dozen decoys.

Here is the finished on with the folder spray patterns I made next to them

To prepare the silos to paint the plastic cardboard I laid the silos on my work bench one at a time and sanded them with an orbital sander and 80 grit. I wanted them rough so they would hold the paint and reduce any possible shine.

The far right template is used to make the white cheek. The one on the top right is used to protect the black neck area when spraying the body. Top left to protect the tail and white from body paint. Left middle to protect tail when spraying white belly. And bottom left to spray white belly again if over spray got on it.

I sprayed several to get a pattern of how to make them. I do the black head and tail first. Then the white belly both two coated. Then gray the body and then camo brown the upper and center body. The lightly over spray the brown to lighten it some and fade it into the gray, Very little !! I use Krylon camo brown for the Canada Goose and it’s too dark so I lightly dust with grey primer at 18″ and lighten it up.

Next I made a template for feather lines. I took a goose picture and photo shopped it for black lines where all the feather lines are. Then printed it on manilla folder and out out the area when the black lines where. Then clothes pinned the template over the decoy and used a dusting of grey primer to make the feather lines. Below is what my template looked like.

Here is the finished silo with the template next to it.

My advice is to fit them with the rods just before painting. I am using welding rods and knocking off the covering. Heating the tip and pushing it in. Then pull it out and heat the last inch quick and back in all the way and let it melt in to stay for eternity.

One thing I learned. Make sure the holes inside run head to tail or parallel to the ground. The welding rod does not want to stay in when the holes are going up. That’s how you want the lines to run on yours, or less than 45 degrees from parallel with the ground. When the holes run parallel with the ground the necks and tails seem to be a lot stronger, you just have to heat and melt the rods into the silo. They are also much easier to paint with the stakes in and out in the yard than on the work bench. I paint one then go to the next and leave them out to dry.

Some of the welding rods came loose later on and I pulled them all and use Gorilla glue and they have never come out again.

By Hampton Bourne

In the late 1990s the spinning-wing decoy crashed onto the duck hunting scene like a tsunami. Two decades later, it has become the most widely used motion decoy, and most hunters have at some point integrated spinners into their decoy spreads. A superstar to some hunters and pariah to others, these decoys have definite strengths and weaknesses.

The first spinning-wing decoy traces its roots to California’s Sacramento Valley. The initial prototype was rather basic and consisted of a single spinning blade, powered by a small electric motor, atop a stake. The blade’s alternating colors produced a strobe effect. The magic comes from the strobe. Unlike humans, ducks can see in the ultraviolet spectrum, which allows them to pick out a hunter’s face shining in the sunlight as well as a spinning-wing decoy from two to three times farther than the human eye can see it. Likewise, a duck’s sharp vision and eyes on the side of its head allow it to see a wide panorama of motionor lack thereofin a decoy spread.

While some hunters achieve tremendous results with their motion decoys, others insist that they cause more harm than good. Here are a variety of tips from experts who make motion work.

EXPERT TIP #1 Understanding Motion Concepts

The spinning-wing concept spread like wildfire. Terry Denmon, an engineer by trade, was approached by a friend who owned a sporting goods store. Their goal was to develop a small, battery-powered motor that could drive spinning wings on a duck decoy. The idea quickly morphed into MOJO Outdoors, which has since established itself as a major manufacturer of spinners and other motion decoys.

Denmon separates his theory of motion into two categories: “long-range strobe” and “simple motion.” Long-range strobe, he says, is “the flash of a spinning-wing decoy generated by turning a wing at a certain minimum speed.” Simple motion, he continues, is “any movement not within the spinning-wing concept. This could be movement of decoys, water, or wings that do not produce the strobe or flash.”

If motion decoys were duck calls, the strobe would be the highball, and simple motion would be the lonesome hen. Like the highball, the strobe is very effective at attracting ducks from long ranges but can cause them to flare when they’re in close, particularly later in the season. Simple motion, on the other hand, is not visible to ducks from a distance but is more likely to help finish birds, just like the lonesome hen call.

While MOJO made the spinning-wing decoy famous, Higdon Outdoors pioneered the development of other types of motion decoys. In 1994, Mark Higdon built a goose decoy with a moving head, which went on to become the first mass-produced motion decoy.

Brook Richard, corporate relations manager for Higdon Outdoors, explains Higdon’s idea of motion. “Visual motion,” he says, “is produced by decoys that can be seen from a distance, but visual motion is not always useful when you’re trying to finish ducks. Water motion, on the other hand, is the process of putting a ripple on the water to make decoys move. With visual motion you’re trying to attract ducks from a long distance. With water motion you’re trying to get circling ducks to commit.”

The message is simple. Some motion decoys attract ducks from long distances, while others put ducks at ease when they are circling your spread. Understanding the difference helps you to be more strategic and creative when using motion.

EXPERT TIP #2 Get Creative

It’s no secret that decoy positioning is crucial to successful duck hunting, and that is especially important with the placement of motion decoys. Conventional wisdom indicates that if a decoy looks like a duck landing, it should be positioned in a spread where you want ducks to land. While placing a decoy in the middle of a landing hole may not be a terrible idea, a little more thought and creativity can yield better results.

Mark Kirsten has been hunting the rice fields of his family’s Sacramento Valley farm for nearly 30 years, and he has experienced the evolution of spinning-wing decoys firsthand. “When the original spinners were invented, they were almost unfair,” Kirsten says. “Their effectiveness has lessened over time, however, and the farther south you go, the less effective they can be.” As ducks move down the flyway, he explains, and especially as the season progresses, they can begin to see the strobe produced by the spinning wings as something unnatural.

“In my experience,” Kirsten continues, “as the season moves on, ducks don’t always finish as well when the spinners are spinning. I use one only if it has a remote, and we always turn it off as ducks get closer. As the season moves on, I also tend to place them farther and farther away from my blind. If ducks begin to act leery of a spinning-wing decoy, I’ll even put it outside my spread and partially behind cover so ducks can see it only at certain points in their circle. I think it can be a great tactic to continue attracting ducks without sacrificing the ability to finish them.”

Denmon endorses the tactic. “One of the biggest misconceptions for spinning-wing decoys is that they are good finishers,” he says. “The decoy was always intended to be a long-range attractor. But if ducks become shy and you remove it completely from your spread, you give up the ability to attract ducks from far off. If they aren’t finishing because of your spinning-wing decoy, move it to the far end of your spread, out of your landing hole. If you need to, move it a hundred yards outside your spread. It might not look as natural to us, but at least you’re still attracting ducks from far away. Once they are close enough to be shy of the strobe, the spinners have already done their job.”

EXPERT TIP #3 How Conditions Can Affect Motion

Ron Kee is a lifelong New Yorker who cut his teeth hunting ducks in the saltwater marshes of Long Island. A Wall Street veteran and former New York state DU vice chairman, he now hangs a shingle as a pro staffer for several waterfowling manufacturers including Mossy Oak, Drake Waterfowl, Buck Gardner Calls, and Tanglefree.

Changing weather conditions can present a challenge for any hunter, but those on our nation’s coasts also have to deal with tides. “Sometimes, the tide can shift six to eight feet over the course of a hunting day,” Kee says. “In a falling tide, a decoy on a pole will eventually stand too far out of the water. In a rising tide the same decoy will quickly be covered with water. We usually hunt from boats and almost always use floating spinning-wing decoys so our profile and motion adjust automatically with the tide.”

Hunters logging hours on coastal waters can also see a higher frequency of strong winds. “Most of the time we hunt sea ducks in a stout wind,” Kee continues. “We frequently use wind-powered spinning-wing decoys. While many inland hunters won’t see winds with enough power to spin motorless decoys, we commonly hunt in winds that produce the strobe that ducks can see from a long way away. They’re also lightweight and very affordable.”

Kee also encourages hunters to remember some tried and true old-school motion tactics. “Flagging passing ducks is one of the most effective techniques we use,” Kee says. The flag he uses is a black, square flag on a handle, similar to a black golf flag. Hunters grip the handle and flap the flag to simulate a duck or goose flapping its wings. “When ducks are at a distance, I’ll hit them with a few flaps,” Kee continues. “I just use a few flicks to get their attention, and once they start coming, I’ll stop flapping. Unlike dabblers, many divers and sea ducks don’t respond well to a duck call, so flagging gives me the same feeling of involvement that calling does. It really is an art form and can be a lot of fun.”

EXPERT TIP #4 Finesse Finishes Ducks

If the waterfowling community crowned a “King of Motion,” Ronnie Capps would be a strong contender. A retired game warden and current professional outfitter, Capps is widely regarded as an expert at bringing life to a dull decoy spread, to the point that clients have referred to his Reelfoot Lake timber hole as “Duck Disneyland.”

Capps believes that shy ducks require a more delicate approachsomething many decoy spreads lack. “You will scare far more ducks with erratic motion than subtle motion. Many hunters use what I call ‘The Haunted House Scenario,'” he says. “If you use too much motion at the wrong time, it’s like a guy with a chainsaw popping out at a haunted house.

“Keep your motion decoys on a remote or a hardwire switch, and don’t ever hit your heavy motion decoys when the ducks are looking right at your spread. When they get downwind and aren’t looking directly at you, hit your motion decoys a few times to stir up the water and create ripples and motion out of the corners of their eyes. I am also a big believer in swimming decoys, especially in and around my landing hole. I believe they are extremely beneficial when used for finishing ducks.”

Higdon’s Richard agrees. “Ducks move, and they move a lot,” he says. “I think the biggest mistake people make is devaluing the power of water motion, especially when there’s no wind or if you’re in the woods. Water motion is critical for finishing ducks.”

“With decoys arranged in a classic half-moon pattern, there are several different ways to use motion best,” Richard adds. “First, make sure your motion decoys are slightly upwind in the spread so the ducks will continue flying over them as they circle. Also consider placing a motion decoy among static decoys to compound their effectiveness. Putting a low-key motion decoy, like a swimmer, exactly in the spot where you want the ducks to land is also a great tactic.”

EXPERT TIP #5 Be Strategic

Supplementing your decoy spread with motion isn’t guaranteed to increase your harvest, but it’s hard to argue against it. The key is being strategic. While some decoys are meant to function like a hammer, others play subtler but equally important roles. Success comes when you understand the hunting conditions, read the birds’ behavior, and use the right tools for the job.

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Draw weight is the necessary force, in pounds, needed to bring the compound bow to full draw. Shooting the proper poundage is very important so that required kinetic energy needed is met without sacrificing proper shooting form.

Before adjusting your poundage, the limbs may be “locked” into their current position by locking bolts. These would be located just below the top limb or above the bottom limb and are screwed into the riser. To adjust the limb bolts, these bolts must be loosened first. After adjustment, they can then once again be tightened.

To adjust the draw weight, we have to unload or load more stress (flex) on the limbs; we do that by tightening or loosening the limb bolts.

To raise draw weight to maximum poundage, tighten the limb bolts (clockwise) until both limbs are tight against the riser.

To lower the draw weight we unscrew the limb bolts equally on each limb (counterclockwise).

Safety Precaution: Be careful that you do not unscrew the limb bolts passed the bow’s lowest weight setting. If the limb bolts are unscrewed too much, the limb bolt’s threads can come out of the riser and cause damage to the bow and injure the mechanic.

Every bow’s limbs have a specific draw weight rating: 50-60, 60-70, 70-80, etc. To check to see if a bow is in “spec” (at its specified manufacturer’s measurements) tighten (clockwise) the limb bolts until the limbs are against the riser. The bow will now be at the maximum poundage and maximum draw weight, ATA measurement, and brace height measurement can be verified.

To raise draw weight

Tighten the limb bolts until the limbs are tight to the riser.

To lower draw weight

First, raise the drawing weight to its max. Next, unscrew both limb bolts one revolution (360°) and check the poundage on a bow scale. Repeat this process until you reach your desired draw weight. Only attempt to shoot draw weights in the limb’s specified range (50-60 lbs, 60-70 lbs). If they are not marked, max out the draw weight and your lowest draw weight will be 10 lbs lighter in most cases. When using a bow scale, hook the string to the scale’s hook at the nocking point and pull down on your bow’s riser until your bow is at it’s “roll over” spot on the cams and look at the scale for its draw weight. Try not to roll the cam(s) over, but if you do, make sure you keep a good grip when raising the bow back up to take it off the scale… it’ll try to take you for a ride!

How To Find Your Ideal Draw Weight

To find your ideal poundage, sit down on a chair or tailgate of a truck and pull your bow back with your feet off the ground. If you are comfortable with the poundage and can hold full draw comfortably, the poundage is where you need it. If the poundage seems high (it was tough to pull back and hold) lower the draw weight in 2 lb increments until you have found a comfortable draw weight.

Average draw weights

• Smaller children (45-65 lbs) = 10-20lbs
• Children (65-95 lbs) = 20-35lbs
• Women and boys (95-125 lbs) = 35-45 lbs
• Larger women and boys (125-145 lbs) = 45-55 lbs
• Men (145-175 lbs) = 55-65 lbs
• Muscular men = 60-70 lbs
• Muscular barbarians = 70-100 lbs

Although these are average drawing weights, it is important to shoot what is comfortable for you. Any attempt to draw more weight than you should will result in improper archery form and affect accuracy.

Slowly stalking through stands of conifers and golden aspens, you stop and cup your hand to your ear. There it is again, the sound, unmistakable and piercing. After days of trekking, you’ve finally heard the roar of a bull elk, and you’ve got him pinpointed. That’s when the stalk begins across the ridge. This is what you’ve been waiting for all year.

For us, there’s almost nothing better in this world than hearing elk sounds echo throughout the mountains. No other animal in North America sounds quite like it. And the different cadences are extraordinary. For the elk hunter, it’s important to understand exactly what these vocalizations mean. For instance, you want to know if the sounds you’re hearing are from a bull or cow, if they’re alert or calm. This will also help you become a better caller, allowing you to draw the animals in close enough for a shot.

Bugle

Even non-hunters can recognize a bugle from a bull elk. It’s a multi-tone sound that begins low and transitions into what can only be described as a loud scream. Bulls bugle during the rut when they’re seeking a mate. The vocalization also serves as a warning to other bulls in the area as a sign of dominance. While you can’t judge the size of a bull based on his bugle, it can be used as a beacon to pinpoint his location. Use the Back Country Elk Decoy and a bugle call to draw him into range. When the rut is in full swing, he won’t be able to resist the prospect of fighting off another male to protect his harem.

Glunking

This is a sound made by a bull that you may also hear during the rut. A glunk is a muffled bass sound, in single tones, one after the other in quick succession. The bull uses this vocalization to communicate with groups of cows. So if you hear this, there’s a good chance there are cows nearby as well.

Chuckle

Bulls will produce a chuckle at the end of a bugle. It sounds like a series of short, loud grunts. However, he may chuckle without bugling. This is another vocalization that is meant to express dominance to males and attract females. Many bugle calls can produce a chuckle, and it’s a great way to add variation to your call sequences.

Bark

This call is used by elk to alert the herd of danger. The vocalization is a single, sharp sound.

Typically, if you hear a bark, the whole herd will quickly disappear because they’ve spotted or winded you. Barks are bad and a sound you want to avoid hearing.

Cow in Estrus

Cows will use this vocalization during the rut to signify she is ready to breed. It sounds like a whine, similar to a bugle but not as high-pitched or as long. This is a handy call to keep in your bag, as this can be used to locate a herd or stop a bull when you’re ready to shoot.

Calf

A calf will sound similar to a cow, although the tone will be much lower. Typically, their calls will be single sounds, similar to a squeak. Much like whitetail does, cow elk will respond to the bleating of a lost calf. If you can pique the curiosity of a few cows with a calf call, they’ll come into bow range. If you’re hunting bulls this can also be advantageous as he’ll often follow cows to ensure his harem doesn’t get separated.

Chirp

This call is made by cows and bulls, often when a large herd is together. They’re general noises elk make when near each other, feeding contently. If you hear these sounds, you can expect a herd close by.

LAST UPDATED: May 1st, 2015

So you just shot a buck on the fifth day of a seven day solo hunt in the backcountry, and you’re 6.5 miles from your truck. Now what? Well, unless you can find some horses running around…you’re probably going to need to get your buck broken down and start to burn some boot leather packing it out on your back. The old motto “releasing the arrow is the easy part, the real work begins after you get an animal down” couldn’t be more true. An ideal situation would be to have a friend help you take care of the meat and pack an animal out. However, sometimes you have to get creative and dig deep when doing it solo.

Before you get in this situation, you should plan ahead and before trying to tackle this task. Believe me…nothing is worse than experimenting on quartering out and/or de-boning an animal in below freezing weather conditions without the proper gear to get the job done. You want to get that animal properly broken down while taking the required steps to get all of the meat removed….all while doing it efficiently. Getting your meat ready to pack out in a timely manner, while minimizing contact with debris on the ground, will help ensure that you have tasty steaks for the dinner table.

There are many advantages to packing out your bow kill. However, there are just as many pitfalls to the process if you don’t know what you’re doing.

Packing out your own animal is all about knowing your physical limitations. Don’t try to bite off too much if you are not adequately prepared to pack a large animal like a bull elk out of the mountains solo during the early part of September. We all owe it to ourselves to get the meat out as quickly as possible. When in doubt, try to contact a few friends to help you pack meat, even if it means hiking to get cell service or heading back to your truck and driving to town.

Equipment NeededGear choices for packing out an animal are sort of like gear choices for setting up a new bow. There are a lot of options for each type of person. Personally, I have found the following items make the job easier on myself and have proven to work great throughout my bowhunting career. When it comes to knives, I prefer to carry the lightest knife for preparing my trophy in the field since I will be carrying this knife each day. You do not want to carry a heavy saw or giant knife in your pack if you don’t need to; just like all of your backpacking gear, you want it to be as light as possible yet still get the job done. The less weight you have in your pack, the harder you can hunt…the harder you hunt…the more successful you can be. (shop for backpacks)

The right game bag can make hauling your meat easier, as well as keep it cool, while also keeping your backpack clean of blood and odor.

I’ll be the first to admit…I don’t like carrying the extra weight of game bags in my backpack each day I hunt. But, I am hunting and therefore expecting to kill something, and even though I love the experience of the hunt, I am not just taking my bow out for a walk. It is for this reason that I pack game bags each day I am hunting, no matter if it’s a daytrip for antelope, a weeklong hunt for elk where I am moving camp each night, or a weekend mule deer hunt where I am headed back to the same tent location each night. Game bags prevent your hard earned meat from getting contaminated from a variety of sources such as dirt, sticks, and insects. I just keep thinking in my mind how miserable it would be if I didn’t have game bags with me when I make a kill. Like the old saying goes, “I’d rather have it and not need it, than need it and not have it.” It’s also a great idea to pack garbage bags if hunting during the hot early season, to give you more options for preventing your meat from spoiling. Placing your meat in garbage bags and then placing them in a stream will ensure they stay cool while you pack the rest of your meat.

Game BagsI have used a lot of different brands and materials of game bags over the years, and I think I have finally found the perfect system for my style of hunting. Cotton has fairly decent breathability, but it doesn’t hold blood well, is difficult to reuse after washing due to staining and odor retention, and it tears easily. Canvas game bags are too heavy for most situations where you are backpacking them in. These would be a great option if you’re hunting from a horse. I prefer a light-weight, breathable, synthetic game bag, as it seems to solve these problems. I rarely get blood on the inside of my pack, they don’t retain odors after washing, and they are extremely lightweight. One thing to look at with synthetic game bags is breathability- make sure if you’re hunting a long distance from your vehicle that your game bags allow your meat to cool. The worst thing would be a game bag that keeps the heat in. Those types of bags might be the lightest weight, but they sacrifice the most important reason for a game bag in my opinion. Not having breathability will potentially spoil your hard earned meat.

A good knife it vital to “post-shot” success. The right one will be lightweight and sharp as a razor.

Cut It And Cool ItA person can quarter or de-bone an entire animal with just one knife and without using a heavy saw. I prefer to use a lightweight knife that has replaceable surgical blades. In total my knife and extra blades weigh just a few ounces. This system eliminates having to carry the weight of a sharpening stone each day. I do carry a small multi-tool that works perfectly for cutting branches out of the way before you start to break down your animal. For example, this past fall (2012) my mule deer buck lodged into some trees and pinned his rack in some branches when he collapsed. Having a small multi-tool saved me some heavy lifting as I was able to cut the branches away freeing my buck to slide down the steep slope to a small flat bench where I could work break him down. (backpack videos)

One important part about packing out your own game is how you will store your meat once you get back to your truck. For this reason I always bring along a cooler that I will place my first load of meat into while I make multiple trips for the rest of the meat. You do not want your meat sitting in the back of your truck all day, since that’s an invitation for insects and/or other animals to chew on it. If you’re in very rugged terrain, it is a good idea to pack trekking poles or leave a set at your truck that you can grab after your first load. They will provide some support for your body and help balance the weight when you’re putting on the miles with a heavy pack.

If you have to leave meat behind, find a place that will keep it cool and out of the hands of bears, insects, or other predators that may move in and steal your hard-earned trophy.

TacticsIf the animal is within your comfortable carrying distance, then you can probably get by with quartering your animal and leaving the meat on the bone. I used to quarter and pack all animals that I shot because I didn’t want to take the time in the field to de-bone it. Well…after packing a bunch of animals through the years, I finally said I had enough, and now I de-bone everything. De-boning an animal makes your pack weigh a lot less, makes it easier to fit multiple game bags full of meat in your pack, and it helps cool your meat down faster.

Small-framed animals such as antelope don’t necessarily require a complete “d-boning” process. Instead, many can be quartered and hauled back to the truck.

The Right Way To Pack ItI place my de-boned hindquarters in one game bag each and do the same for the front shoulders. All the rest of the meat (backstraps, tenderloins, neck, brisket, etc.) will get divided into the front shoulder bags. You will soon find out there is a proper way to pack meat out in a backpack and a way that will hurt your body. Place all your meat as close to your back as possible in your backpack, but keep it off the bottom of your pack for balance reasons. Nothing is more uncomfortable than having a heavy object strapped to the outside of your pack that will pull your body backwards or to the side. (choosing the right pack)

When I have gear with me on the first pack out, I will place all my extra clothes in the bottom of my pack with my sleeping bag. The rest of my gear (tent, food, etc.) will get distributed to the outside pockets to make room for the meat inside of the pack. If you’re concerned about getting a little blood on the inside of your pack then it will be useful to place your de-boned meat in a garbage bag. Some packs have load slings that enable the bag to move away from the frame, allowing the meat to be placed right next to your back, while still enabling your gear to be placed inside your backpack. I really love this design for comfort reasons and ease of carrying my gear out on the first trip.

You may have a good backpack, but if it isn’t loaded correctly, the load will wear you down fast; possibly even injure you.

It is also very important that you utilize your compression straps on the outside of your pack. Nothing is more frustrating than hiking out with a heavy load of meat and a big buck rack on the outside of your back and having the rack bounce up and down or the meat falling around in the backpack. It will wear you out in a hurry…trust me on this one. Don’t ever try to stand and lift the pack up to your shoulders either. For one…it will hurt and two it has the potential to tear your shoulder straps by forcing all the weight to that one area. Instead, before I load the meat in my pack, I will place my pack near a spot that allows me to sit down on a bench and slip the shoulder straps on and get my waist belt buckled. Then I just need to lean forward and stand up. If that is not an option in the area you shot your animal, then I would suggest sitting down and getting your pack strapped on and do those same steps, but before you try to stand, roll onto your hands and knees facing uphill and then push yourself off the ground. Once standing, you will be able to adjust the shoulder straps, sternum strap, and waist belt. (backpack forum)

With a Polycarbonate Frame, AirTrack Suspension, and 4700 cubic inches in carrying capacity, the all-new Badlands Summit is designed to handle any load you can through at it.

The best advice I was ever given was don’t pack out what you are not going to use or consume. If I know I am not going to mount the buck, I will remove the entire hide from the skull and start to remove some of the meat from it as well. Also, I will remove the lower jaw because I have never found a need for it. I usually do a skull mount of most of my average bucks, but if you really want to lighten more of your pack out weight, then you can cut the skull plate in half below the antlers.

Backpack ConsiderationsHaving a pack that can handle the extra weight of meat plus gear is something to take into consideration before your hunt. You cannot place a heavy load in a pack that isn’t designed for that function. Lightweight packs may be great for ease of hunting, but most of the time they lack the comfort and adjustability of a do-it-all type pack. I am a huge fan of a pack that I can use for a week long hunt, and if I harvest an animal I can use that same pack to haul meat out. I am not easy on my backpacks- to me they are a tool to haul weight and haul it comfortably. So I will use my same pack for hunting as well as getting my hard earned protein to the table.

Another great option if you don’t want to get your nice backpack a little dirty or if it cannot handle the weight, is to have an external frame meat pack waiting for you at the truck. This way you could process your animal in the field, hang the meat in a shaded tree to cool, and then hike back to your vehicle to retrieve your meat hauling pack. It comes down to personal preferences and whether or not you’re willing to burn more miles going to get a different pack. Personally, I follow the “less trips mentality, so I chose a backpack that can do anything I ask of it.

Closing TipsI always keep my knife and tags in the same pocket on my pack. That way I have peace of mind knowing that I won’t lose them or dig through all my gear after I make a kill to find them. For attaching your tags to your trophy, keep it simple and use electrical tape. I always bring along a short section just for tags, since you don’t need a full roll of extra weight. If you shot anything larger than a deer such as an elk or a moose and you need to make multiple trips, make sure you place your meat high in a tree away from the reach of bears.

The end goal is memories on the wall, and a freezer full of healthy venison. Take the right approach and this will be an easily achievable goal.

Also for multiple trips, ensure your meat will be in the shade most of the time while you are packing the first few loads of meat and select a location with ample breeze to further cool the meat while you are away. Another great option for keeping your meat safe from insects or bacteria is using a mixture of citric acid powder and water. Citric acid will slow bacteria growth and prevent flies from trying to get through your game bag. This would be a great option for the solo hunter who is chasing elk deep in the backcountry. Finally, always be cautious while cutting up meat and returning to meat hanging in a tree in bear country….you never know what could be waiting when you return.

Ever since the sushi fad first touched down in Canada, we have been avid consumers. Starting hesitantly, as most did, with California Rolls and eventually working our way up to plates full of Sashimi, sushi has become a staple of our diet and has become the same for millions of people across North America.

Being avid anglers, however, eating this much fish caught by other people seemed somewhat wrong. Lake caught walleye and pike had always been more enticing to us than haddock or cod and our choice of salmon has always favoured lake-bound Kokannee over farmed Atlantics.

So, to combine our favourite hobby with one of our favourites foods, we decided to give our favourite freshwater quarry the full sushi treatment – taking a freshly caught walleye from a pristine northern Ontario lake, filleting it on the front of the boat, and eating walleye sashimi right on the water as we fished.

All was perfect in the world of Fish’n Canada… that was until we told a local biologist about our experiment.

After a full lecture about metre-long worms, small yellow grubs, and other parasites, we were just happy to have made it home alive.

Fast-forward 20 years, the fear instilled in us by that biologist has all but worn out and we are ready to tackle the subject once more and, with a little help from our friends, answer the question of “can you eat freshwater fish raw?” once and for all.

The Doc’s Perspective

Gord Pyzer is known as “the Doc” not just because he has put doctorate-level hours into fishing, but because he has over 30 years of experience as a senior manager with Ontario’s Ministry of Natural Resources.

This made him the perfect man to run our raw fish questions by as he would know exactly what kind of potential parasites our favourite fish were holding and what kind of damage they would do if they were consumed by humans.

What kind of parasites do freshwater fish carry?

Yellow Grub

Yellow Grubs are perhaps the most common parasite we see in our fresh water fish, often found nestled into the tails and flesh of panfish such as Perch and Bluegill. These unsightly grubs (actually parasitic flukes) make their way into the water via fish-eating birds, where they then mature inside aquatic snails before venturing out in their mature form to find their host fish.

Thankfully, these grubs are harmless to humans and, even if eaten live and raw, would only add a bit more protein to your diet.

Black Grub

Black Grubs, more commonly called Black Spots, are very similar to Yellow Grubs in every way except the markings they leave on the fish.

Like the Yellow Grubs, these parasitic flukes enter the water through fish-eating birds, mature inside of snails, and then find their target fish.

Once the worm enters its final host, the fish responds by forming a hard cyst made from a black pigment to trap the worm, creating small black spots throughout the fish’s body and temporarily pausing the spread of the parasite. These cysts remain closed until the fish is eaten, typically by birds, where the cycle starts over again.

Thankfully (again), this parasite is not transmittable to humans but will add a bit of crunch to your fillets if they are not picked out.

Broad Fish Tapeworm

If you found the last two parasites gross, you may want to stop reading.

Known formally as Diphyllobothrium latum, the broad fish tapeworm is the largest tapeworm that can infect humans and is present in many of our freshwater fish. “Large”, in fact, may be a bit of an understatement as these behemoths have been measured in humans at over 30 feet in length.

In our recent podcast episode, Gord gets into a story about a friend of his experiencing this first hand after consuming some undercooked Lake Trout.

Since these parasites like cold water, Lake Trout are one of the more frequent hosts of these worms, however, they are also very prominent in Whitefish, Northern Pike, Walleye, and Smallmouth Bass.

Fortunately, for those cooking their fish, these worms will not survive the frying, baking, or smoking process and, if you have eaten a lot of trout, you have likely consumed them without noticing. For us sushi eaters, however, contracting these worms is a real possibility.

Gord’s Reccomendation:

Gord says that the decision to eat raw fish ultimately comes down to your perception of risk vs. reward. As he says in the podcast, “is eating that piece of raw fish really worth a 25-foot tapeworm?”

From Gord’s perspective, the answer to this question is obvious and he would much rather fry up his fresh-caught walleye than take the chance and consume it raw. As Gord says, “there are no medals for self-inflicted wounds.”

The Chef’s Perspective

After getting scared to death by Gord’s tapeworm stories, we wanted a more positive take on eating raw freshwater fish.

Chef Antonio Meleca is not only a chef to the stars and host of Fish’n Canada’s Fish du Jour series on YouTube, but is also an avid angler who frequently consumes his catches raw

In fact, Antonio has blended his hobby and his work on several occasions, including once with Kit Harington of Game of Thrones fame, where he prepared Smallmouth sushi and sashimi, caught by the actor right on the shores of Lake Nipissing (listen here).

So how did Kit and Antonio survive the process tapeworm-free?

How do you prepare freshwater sushi?

Antonio says that anytime he prepares freshwater sushi, he uses the same process he would for tuna or salmon. This starts with the gutting process, which should start as soon as possible after the fish is caught. When filleting, Antonio says he is then always keeping a close eye on the flesh for grubs or worms. In most of our non-bottom-dwelling freshwater fish, these parasites are not microscopic and can be easily spotted or felt.

Next, the fish has to be frozen for at least 48 hours below -18 C. In the sushi world, this is called IQF (Individually Quick Frozen) and is the time and temperature necessary to kill any harmful parasite that could be living in the meat. Unfortunately, most household freezers cannot reach these temperatures so some local connections to those with commercial-grade freezers may have to be made.

After the freezing process has been completed, the fish can be prepared any way you like. On the day with Kit Harington, sashimi and ceviche were the preference. However, Antonio has also used raw Smallmouth and Walleye for rolls which are sweetened with brown sugar and soya sauce.

Antonio’s Reccomendation:

Antonio says that freezing fish at the IQF standard -18C for two days makes it perfectly safe for consumption and, when done correctly, can make excellent tasting sushi of your favourite freshwater fish. Antonio does emphasize, however, that household freezers DO NOT reach these temperatures and, as a disclaimer, he cannot recommend making sushi at home without the proper equipment.

The Food Safety Perspective

To break the tie, we wanted to interview someone who could give us the food safety perspective of eating freshwater fish raw.

That man was Ken Cashin, a food safety consultant at Innovative Quality Solutions on Prince Edward Island.

In our interview with Ken, he echoed much of what both Gord and Antonio had said by stating that when eating any raw food, whether it be trout, salmon, beef or oysters, there is always a risk.

However, some fish provide a far greater risk than others. With oysters, for example, which act in the ocean as filters for known toxins, people rarely think twice about consuming them raw despite the massive health risks that can result from improper handling.

With something like a raw freshwater trout or walleye, on the other hand, the risks of serious illness are far lower yet many people wouldn’t dream of consuming it raw.

Ken’s Reccomendation

Like Gord, Ken says eating raw fish is all about weighing risks and deciding how much you really want that sushi. Like Antonio, Ken also reiterates that all risks can be avoided through proper handling and freezing. “The process is simple,” said Ken, “freeze the product, kill the worm.”

The Verdict

So can you eat freshwater fish raw?

The quick answer is yes.. with a caveat.

As both Antonio and Ken pointed out, the parasites found in our freshwater fish cannot survive the IQF freezing process carried out on traditional sushi, meaning all you have to do to make your fish safe to eat raw is to freeze it at -18 C for at least two days.

This, however, is much easier said than done as most household freezers cannot reach these temperatures.

For those looking to skip this process, the decision to eat raw freshwater fish ultimately comes down to your own calculation of risk vs. reward and whether you think your eyes are keen enough to spot the tapeworms that are patiently waiting to grow to record sizes in their next host.

Let us know in the comments below whether freshwater sushi will be added to your next shore lunch menu.

For the full interviews with all three of our guests, check out the podcast on Apple Podcast, Spotify, Google Play, or wherever else you get your podcasts.