It’s not uncommon for anglers and my clients to ask about the best baits for salmon fishing on rivers around the great lakes. Therefore I thought I would write an article about the best baits for salmon that I and other river guides use, and include how and when to choose certain baits, and how I rig them.

The 4 best baits for fishing salmon in rivers are the spawn bag, the trout bead, a nymph or egg fly, and the plastic worm. These baits come in different sizes and colors and some will fish better than others depending on the conditions. Other baits like shrimp, grubs, and skein can be deadly effective.

I will discuss all 10 baits that I use annually.

These are just 4 of the best baits for salmon but there are a few other great baits that I will discuss and a bonus bait that at times might be better than all the other salmon baits. Look for my Guide Tip to see this hot bait.

I will also discuss the best hooks and leaders for each bait because a great bait can be often an ineffective bait simply using the wrong hook or a leader that is too thick or doesn’t work well.

Hooks And Leaders For The Best Salmon Baits

In the picture above I show you how to put a bait on a hook properly and why this way is better. There are 2 things you need to consider when putting your bait onto the hook and these are both important if you want to get the maximum effectiveness out of your bait and if you want to get better hook sets.

Hook Size

The first problem with an oversize hook is that the fish are more likely to see your hook and refuse the bait. It might not matter how great the bait is if they spot the hook.

An extra-large hook is also heavy and that may not allow your bait to flow naturally in the current because it might act like an anchor weight that keeps dragging your bait to the bottom which may result in fewer bites and also too many snags.

Just like trout, salmon almost always look and feed up or sideways and they rarely feed downwards so a bait that is constantly on the bottom of the river will likely not get eaten. A lighter hook will allow your bait to stay off the bottom and in the strike zone.

Something else to consider is that your bait should be proportionate to the hook and the bait should be covering at least 50% of the hook.

Bait Placement

Another mistake many anglers make is blurring the hook point into the bait. On very soft baits like skein or spawn that might be OK, but on plastics and firmer baits, it’s a problem.

Covering the hook point can and likely will prevent soft-biting fish from getting hooked or it can impede the hook from going into the fish which might affect how well the hook holds.

The Best Hooks For Salmon Baits

I have always found that short shank wide gap hooks are the best hooks for salmon fishing in rivers when using most baits and under most conditions.

A short hook means less hook exposed at the top and the bottom and a wide gap improves hooking percentage and tends to hold the fish better.

However, an exposed hook point can sometimes hook itself even without a hook set.

Myself, my guides and other guides that I know like to use hooks like these and we recommend them to our clients.

The best hooks for salmon baits are:

• #1 – Raven Specimen hook – A wide Gap hook that has become very popular with my guides. It hooks and holds well, and it’s strong for big salmon.
• #2 – Gamakatsu Octopus hook – A hook that has been around for many years and is a proven good hook for salmon and steelhead and liked by many anglers.
• #3 – Raven Specialist hook – Another great hook that is used by many anglers around the great lakes. It’s bit thinner
• #4 – Redwing Tackle Blackbird Sabretooth Premium hooks – similar to the Gamakatsu and Specialist, this is a good hook for salmon and steelhead and is well like by many anglers
• #5 – Daiichi 1150 Heavy Wide-Gape Hooks – This is my go-to hook when fishing beads or when fishing gin clear water for nervous salmon, steelhead, and trout. It’s a thinner lighter wire hook so it’s not the hook you want to be dragging big salmon in with, but it’s a low-profile hook that allows your bait to move more naturally and is less visible than the other hooks above.

For great lakes salmon fishing in rivers I would recommend having one or two of these hooks in sizes from size 6, size 8, and size 10, and be sure to match the size of the hook to the bait size.

The Best Baits For Salmon Fishing In Rivers

When I fish for salmon, steelhead, and even trout and I catch a ton of fish, if another angler asks how I did when I tell them how many fish I caught they often ask what bait I was using. Often, these anglers didn’t do so well, so they think the reason I did so much better is because of my bait.

The honest truth is that 9 out of 10 anglers that are not catching much fish are because of things not even related to their bait. Things like a bad presentation or a bad leader setup, and even a bad hook can be a reason for not catching any fish.

How you present your bait is often more important than the bait itself.

I tell my clients that the bait is only as good as your presentation, and your presentation is only as good as your leader setup, therefore you need to get it all correct if you want to catch more fish.

That means that if you drag your bait through the pool, or your bait is way over their fish’s heads, or you cover the water poorly, or even if your leader is too thick or not built properly, your great bait could become less effective and maybe not work at all.

If you think your presentation needs some work, or you would like to see my proven leader setup for salmon and steelhead be sure to check out my page How To Fish For Salmon.

The reason why spawn bags catch more salmon than any other bait is that 90% of anglers use spawn bags. If 90% of anglers used beads, or flies then they would be the best bait. I’m not saying that spawn isn’t the best bait, it’s just that there are times when it’s not.

I find that too many anglers are one-sided and only fish spawn and that mentality could limit the amount of salmon you catch. Many times I have outfished the spawn bag guys, even standing right beside 10 of them with other baits.

If 10 guys are running spawn bags through a pool for hours, those salmon will quickly get smart and stop eating spawn bags.

This is why I can often walk into a pool that everyone has fished with spawn bags and I will use a small fly, or a pink worm, or something that is different, smaller, or less intrusive, and I will catch a bunch of salmon that the spawn guys couldn’t catch.

However, spawn is often the best bait for new anglers and I discuss the reasons why I think this, as well as my color and size preferences in different types of water on my page Spawn Bag Tactics And Secrets.

For most spawn bag sizes I prefer to use a size 10 or size 8 hook.

Single Salmon Eggs

There are times when single eggs on a small size 12 Daiichi Salmon Egg Hook can be the best bait for salmon fishing in rivers. The store-bought single eggs are prepared in a way that allows them to scent well and stay on the hook.

My preferred single salmon eggs are the Pautzke Balls O’ Fire Salmon Eggs, and my most effective colors are Natural or Yellow, but other colors like Chartreuse, Pink, and Red have been very effective, especially in dirtier water.

Single eggs are most effective in low clear water when salmon are holding, but they can be great in any type of water, deep, fast, dirty, and clear.

If you don’t live near a tackle store and you need to buy your single eggs or spawn bags or even loose trout eggs online these are your best options:

Salmon Fishing With Beads

Fishing with soft and hard beads has become a very popular way of fishing for salmon, steelhead, and trout. The reason beads are so popular is that they work very well.

The belief is that salmon will occasionally eat eggs that float past them out of instinct, aggression, or even hunger, and they might eat just to maintain energy to prolong their spawning duration which can allow them to spawn longer and spawn more often.

Beads are a great way to imitate those loose salmon eggs drifting in the current, and based on my experience, beads will often outfish bigger spawn bags.

There are a few different brands of beads as well as soft and hard plastic and glass beads that anglers can use.

There are also a few good ways to rig beads. Anglers also have a ton of different colors and sizes to use and I discuss all of this and how I fish beads for steelhead and salmon on my page Advanced Bead Fishing For Salmon: Guide Tactics and Setup.

Or, if you are a trout angler, I go into detail on how to fish beads for trout on my page Bead Fishing For Trout.

Plastic Worms For Salmon Fishing

For many years, three and 4-inch plastic worms have been my secret hot bait for steelhead and trout, but worms are also one of my best baits for salmon fishing in rivers and I use them all the time. In fact, many of my buddies and guides swear that beads are often their top bait for salmon.

I have seen salmon hit a worm that is swinging across the pool at the end of a drift, and I have seen salmon hit a worm as it’s being reeled in, and I have even seen salmon chase a worm to the surface.

These 3 brands are great when fishing with the pink and red are my most effective colors.

Pink worms are my go-to color most of the time when I am fishing for salmon, but I have had days when the salmon prefer the red or brown worms, and Chartreuse worms can be very effective some days.

Also, If you are looking to try other colors like orange and white, both have worked for me, the Berkely Trout Worms have a lot of interesting colors.

I discuss my tactics, setups, and my favorite worms for steelhead, trout, and salmon on my page Fishing With Worms.

Flies Are A Great Bait For Salmon In Rivers

There are times when the anglers are all using spawn bags or brightly colored baits and that can sometimes stop the fish from feeding. This is when a black or brown nymph can really shine.

Most often I will use size 8 and 10 flies but will sometimes drop down to a smaller size 12 when the fish are pressured and nervous.

Some of the best flies for salmon fishing are: (click the link to see or buy the fly)

Wooly Bugger – Like this in a size 8 or 10 but have done well with smaller size 12 and 14 sizes. I also like them with or without a gold or silver bead head. I do find that the pattern in the link with the flash on the sides works the best. I have found that black and olive work the best, but there are some days when white and pink will be hot.

I like the flash on this fly because the salmon seem to be more attracted to flashy flies.

Prince nymph – This is a fantastic attractor nymph pattern that has been great for salmon and steelhead. I think the combination of the greenish shine on the body and the white wing gets their attention.

Stonefly – I tie my own and have a pattern that seems to worm better than most. This Bead Head Copper John Nymph in the link is the closest that I have seen to the stonefly pattern that I tie and use.

Copper John – Another great fly that seems to work in most colors however the red body version is the hot fly some days.

Zug Bug – Something about the peacock herl on this fly that drives big salmon crazy some days. I will always have some of these on hand. In fact, I have found that peacock hearl seems to work very well on salmon, so I use and do well with other flies with peacock herl like the Pheasant Tail Nymph.

If you want to see more of the flies that I use and recommend when fishing for salmon around the great lakes, be sure to check out my page on the Best Flies For Salmon Fishing On The Great Lakes: COMING SOON, or if you want to learn to fly fish for salmon check out my page How To Fly Fish For Salmon.

Using Shrimp For Salmon Fishing

Shrimp are recognized as effective bait for salmon fishing, with anglers enhancing their effectiveness by adding colors, scents, or attractants. Different types of shrimp, such as Coon Shrimp, Stripped Shrimp, Sand Shrimp, and Salad Shrimp, have proven successful in catching salmon.

While shrimp work well in faster currents, they are not as effective in slower or stagnant water.

Curing shrimp is a simple process, and ready-to-use cures and brines are available for consistent results.

Properly cured and dyed shrimp can prolong their lifespan and entice salmon to strike. Rigging shrimp involves using a size 6 or 8 hook and attaching the shrimp once in the head area.

See Salmon Fishing With Shrimp for more cures and info on this bait.

Various methods can be employed for salmon fishing with shrimp, including bottom fishing, plunking, side drifting, and float fishing. Each method has its advantages and requires specific techniques. Adding a floating bead to keep the shrimp off the bottom can be beneficial.

While shrimp have their place in salmon bait options, they may not have equal success rates compared to proven baits like spawn bags or skein when float fishing.

Using shrimp as an additional bait option is recommended when other baits are not producing desired results, but they should not be the primary choice.

Professional guides have found success with shrimp and many guides will use shrimp on the middle hook of plugs when side drifting or plunking for salmon.

Minnows and Minnow Patterns For Salmon Fishing

I have used live, dead, and even dead salted minnows with some success on fresh-run salmon that have just entered the river.

The best minnow imitation for salmon fishing and what I prefer to use most often is the Berkley Gulp! Alive Minnow or, if I want more action the Berkely Gulp Alive Paddleshad. I will fish these minnow imitations under a float or when bottom bouncing in shallow runs and pockets.

Other good options for minnow patterns are the Berkley PowerBait Pro Twitchtail Minnow and the Cabela’s Fisherman Series Go-To Swim Minnow which has a little extra movement in the tail in faster currents.

Most of the time I use minnows that are natural shad or minnow colors like silver with back, green or blueish backs. However, orange and chartreuse can be hot some days.

With these minnows, I will use a size 8 or 10 hooks and will hook it mid-body at the top of the back so that it rides more horizontally in the current.

Plastic Grubs and Plastic Flies Are Great For Salmon

Something that not a lot of anglers use is plastic grubs and plastic flies, however, I have had very good success with these baits under a float or when bottom bouncing. I use them in medium to fast-moving water mostly.

Salmon, like many river fish, are opportunistic and will grab anything that is presented well and looks edible.

The Mad River Steelhead Grubs, the Berkley Gulp! Crickets and the Berkley Gulp! Pinched Crawlers have all been good for me.

I have also done very well some days with the 3.5″ Vudu Rattle Shrimp in the colors gold, natural, and magic. I have also done well with Tsunami Holographic Shrimp in colors rootbeer, silver glitter, and red glitter.

Another bait that fits into this category is the leech. Yes, I salmon fish with leeches. I don’t use real leeches but there are some great fake ones. My favorite is the Berkley Gulp! 3” Leech or the Gulp Alive Leech.

Plastic Eggs, Fake Eggs, and Egg Clusters

Just like the beads and spawn sacks, these are just imitation eggs and at times they will work great for steelhead and salmon.

Plastic single eggs and egg clusters like the Sac Attack Imitation Cluster Eggs, or the Mad River Single Eggs and the Berkley Gulp! Floating Salmon Eggs.

Other potential baits Include:

• Salmon Fishing With Corn
• Salmon Fishing With Powerbait
• Salmon Fishing With Marshmallows
• Salmon Fishing With Minnows

Jigs For Salmon Fishing

You can fish with jigs for salmon a few different ways. There are times when casting a bass or walleye-style jig with a spinning rod and then slowly swinging it and bouncing the jig off the bottom and across the river can be deadly for salmon, steelhead, and even for trout.

For this tactic, I used Chompers Skirted Football Jigs, or the No-Alibi Pearl Alien Jigs, or the Missile Jigs Ike’s Mini Flip Jig. I have also done well with a jig head and a plastic minnow like the Berkley Gulp Alive minnow or even a twister tail type grub like the 4 inch Strike King Rage Tail Grub.

There are other times when drifting a jig under a float will be very effective and I use this method the most.

I will also use the bottom bouncing method and will dead drift the jig or use a bounce and dead drift presentation.

I’ve also done very well with the Steelhead Worm Jigs, or Kalin’s Marabou Jigs, or the Mimic Fry Jig, and the Fly Jig. These are all good options when salmon fishing under a float.

Using Skein For Salmon Fishing

A very hot bait for many anglers and a bait that often works when other baits don’t is Skein.

There are many salmon guides and anglers that will tell you this is the most effective bait that you can use for salmon, and at times, I will 100% agree with them.

Skein is the immature eggs of salmon, steelhead, or trout. Skein eggs are stuck together by a fine membrane and as the salmon get close to spawning the eggs will start to loosen from the membrane so they can be dropped when the salmon spawns.

Many anglers know that skein can work better than any other bait, especially with fresh salmon that are just entering the river. I drift skein under a float or when bottom bouncing.

All of my guides love to use skein when fishing for great lakes salmon and on days when the salmon are being difficult skein is often the only way to get the salmon to bite.

Most anglers will use Coho or king/Chinook salmon skeins from fish that they have caught but not all anglers have access to skein which is ok because you can buy salmon skeins in whole or in chucks.

Some of the best skeins you can get are the Pro-Cure Salmon Roe or the Pro-Cure Vacuum Packed Salmon Skeins eggs on Amazon.

.

Lures For Salmon Fishing

If you are the type of angler that likes to throw lures at salmon and want to know my best lures and my tactics check out my page Lure Fishing For Salmon and don’t forget to check out my page Best Gear For River Fishing where I discuss all the release gear, waders, boots, vest and more.

Putting The Best Salmon Baits To Use

How you use the bait is as important as the bait itself. When I fish baits in the river for salmon I either use the float fishing method or I use something known as Bottom Bouncing.

You can see how to do both of these methods well on other pages. Check out my page Float Fishing For Salmon – Great Lakes Tactics From A Top Guide and my page Bottom Bouncing – 5 Proven Guide Tips For More Fish.

Want more on what bait to choose and when, see below.

FAQs About The Best Baits For Salmon

I received this message from a reader and thought I would share it with you since it’s related to the best baits for salmon and how to fish them in certain situations.

Question: Could you please elaborate a bit on when would the Salmon prefer a minnow style bait over eggs or rubber worms.

And targeting them on the fly like the woolly bugger and gulp minnows, is a complete dead drift better than say a retrieve where you trot the float in minuet steps of slow and fast speeds thus causing small up and down jigging motion on the buggers and other streamers to get a reaction bite?I came across a pod of 3-4 salmon and tried dead drifting, worms/woolly buggers/egg-sucking leeches, I couldn’t get them to bite at all except for one swipe at the egg-sucking leech.

Hi Durvesh,

I dead drift baits that don’t normally have movement in the river and on occasion, I might bounce or jig a bait like a minnow, a fly, or a jig to get a reaction strike. However, it will depend on the spot. 3 or 4 salmon holding in a smaller clear pool are likely to be nervous fish, therefore jigging or causing any type of commotion on the surface can spook them even more.

In larger faster flowing spots, jigging or holding back and releasing your float might work but 90% of the time I will dead drift a bait and it seems to work well.

I will often use smaller less intrusive baits like flies in low clear waters and bigger brighter baits in bigger pools or faster water.

Trying to determine if the fish want a worm or an egg or a minnow is trial and error and I will often rotate baits in each spot until I find something that works.

Make sure you use the right type of float for the type of water you are fishing, make sure you have the right leader set up and the right size leader for the spot, and make sure you fish well and don’t spook the fish.

Sometimes salmon can be very aggressive when something enters their space so they may hit an aggressively retrieved fly, jig, or lure out of anger or a territorial thing, so sometimes a switch to a lure will do the trick. However, that is always my last resort since that can also spook the fish.

Honestly, some salmon just won’t eat once they enter the river no matter what you do or try.

Ask A Guide About The Best Baits For Salmon Fishing

If you have a question, comment, or even a suggestion related to the best baits for salmon fishing in the river, let me and other readers hear it in the comment section below and I or one of my guides will get back to you.

Tight Lines

Graham

Hunting is hard…but western hunting is just plain difficult! It strains your gear, your emotions and your body all at the same time. Hunting, regardless of the technologies we bring to the field will always remain a primal grudge match between predator and prey. The only thing we can improve upon as hunters is our fitness level. The frustration we feel during the fall hunting seasons reflects our own inability to handle the wild at her best and most fit. Some hunters forego preparations in the offseason and pay the price through not tagging an animal, being unable to keep up with the demands of the hunt or worst of all, may not be able to fully enjoy the hunt. While training to hunt may sound cliché, everyone’s journey is their own. Each person must want to take it upon themselves to be in peak form come fall. Each person’s “peak form” may be different, but your body and mental game must be at a minimum to complete your hunting adventure. This means taking hunting workouts and fitness seriously in the offseason.

PODCAST: John Stallone and Willi Schmidt – Planning and Preparing for Big Game Hunts Out of State

Before You Start: Consider Safety

Diet and exercise should always be considered under the advice and guidance of a medical professional. Their knowledge and expertise can help you understand how to fully optimize diet and exercise for you and your body based on your age, current fitness level, and any injuries. Another reason to check with health care professionals is to keep a working track of your vitals, specifically your heart. Every year hunters succumb to a fatal heart attack in the wild and they may have never known they had a lurking heart problem. The actions of the wild through hiking and heavy lifting can lead to serious strain on the heart muscle and leave you in a dangerous situation especially if you are traveling to higher elevations on your hunt. Many months before hunting season it is always good to check your cardio health. Consider building a baseline of data every spring to track year after year.

The Right Way to Start Is Through Nutrition

A truck is worthless if the gasoline is of poor quality. Poor fuel robs the vehicle of efficiency through strength and endurance. The same goes for the body, the foods we eat, and supplements we take, as they make up a large portion of the overall performance and results we see through preparing our bodies. If you are not sure where to start, start by evaluating what you are eating and consult a professional if you need help shaping a plan.

A good rule of thumb is to stick to lean proteins, vegetables, fruits, complex carbohydrates throwing out simple carbs and starches and looking into additional supplements like Wilderness Athlete products. Adding supplement powders to your breakfast smoothies are a great way to further optimize the body. Workout recovery mixes like Protein Plus or Brute Strength also help you get the most from your time in the gym or from out hammering miles on your legs by providing a balanced proportion of protein and carbohydrates and proven nutritional anti-inflammatories. When you push your body to the next level through training, it will need help through supplements to replace the nutrients you are so quickly burning.

A Body in Motion

Exercise can seem overwhelming. Thousands of hunting workouts are possible and endless numbers of movements and methods, theories and techniques create a crisscrossing mire of confusion that the everyday hunter can find frustrating. Just getting up off the couch to get to the gym and break a sweat is a daunting task if there is no direction and no plan. Exercise requires a drive, desire, determination and most of all a plan!

Every hunt is different within itself just as each game species requires different hunting tactics. Each hunt will push different parts of the body and you can make the best use of the long offseason to prepare for the specifics of your hunt. In general, there are workouts that help in overall hunting fitness.

Hunting Workouts to Focus on For Western Hunting

When it comes to mountain and western hunting your entire being must be ready for the wear and tear of the daily grind. To be able to enjoy the rigors of mountain hunting, cardio endurance and leg and core strength should be on the forefront of your offseason workouts. Just remember that big bucks, bulls, and rams are killed because you were able to get to them and keep up with them, not because you muscle flexed them to death.

Cardio health can be achieved through any different forms of exercise. Running, biking, elliptical machines, stair climbers or even high-intensity workout videos provide quality cardio routines. Consistency is the key to building cardio stamina. Nobody says that it’s the most fun exercising in the world, but it is effective and trains the mind to deal with pain. The same pain you’ll deal with on a long hunt and hopefully packing out your trophy.

Pushups, lateral raises, and shoulder presses are simple daily exercises. Pushups work the triceps and parts of the shoulder muscles in addition to core muscles, back and pectoral muscles. Pushups are a stamina building exercise using your own body weight. Consistent and daily repetitions are the key to building long-term strength and endurance through this exercise in your off season training.

Lateral raises are another easy exercise not requiring heavy weight or much time. Lateral raises are an exercise in which you raise your arm in a Y, T and I form and hold for a few seconds at a time. This work out can be done with or without weights. If you choose to use weights, use small dumb bells no greater than 15lbs.

Leg day is often skipped since it requires much more effort both physically and mentally. If you can get over the mental hump of procrastination, working out your legs is not difficult at all.

The weight room also has plenty of options to strengthen legs muscles. Squats and leg presses are widely regarded at the go-to leg exercise, and for good reason. These motions work nearly every area of your legs and build core strength and stability. The form is the key for both methods and should always be done with a spotting partner. Other exercises include motions possible with dumb bells. Vertical and side-to-side lunges holding dumb bells are great for lower body resistance training. These motions work parts of your legs regular squats cannot. In the mountains every part of your legs are worked and strained as the constant stop and go, pushing and balancing yourself is a part of each step.

Packing out any animal is an ordeal. Often times the luxury of having pack animals is not available and the tough work must be done on your own back. Having a strong core and back is one of the most overlooked aspects of off-season preparation. Sure, everyone wants a great looking six pack to play the xylophone on, yet, a strong core is beyond the glamor. A strong core provides balance and strength as it is a part of your overall base. Beyond crunches, there are other great offseason workouts you can do to build a strong core. Squats help build core strength as a part of that routine, but planks and leg lifts directly target the core. These resistant style exercises are brutally painful when done consistently in the gym but help you get the results you need.

Back muscles provide the stability and stamina for carrying heavy loads. Exercises like lateral pull downs and dumbbell rows build these back muscles. Most gyms will have a lateral pull down the machine. With a wide grip bar, the idea is to use your scapula muscles in a downward motion. Pinch your shoulder blades together for a full motion and slowly let the bar back up. Don’t overload yourself and have incorrect form as this will not help you achieve the strength and results you need for the mountains. If a lateral pull down machine is not available, pull ups can serve a similar function working both back and arm muscles through a general pulling motion. Using one’s own body focus on going straight up and down to avoid swaying from side to side. There are many variations of pull ups from wide grip to revise grips and close grip work different parts of the lateral muscles. The key is proper form and consistency.

Hunting Workout Videos

These are a handful of hunting workout videos I have recorded over the year of some of the workouts I want to do to ensure each part of my body is ready for the hunting adventure ahead!

Core and Stability

Workout: Focus on the core with a combination of workouts seen in the video below, and by using a combination of balance and Bosu balls, medicine balls, and weighted sandbags.

The Hunting Application: Core and stability workouts as seen in the video below are absolutely critical when hunting in serious and uneven terrain. This is especially true when you are traversing the rough terrain with a heavy backpack.

Barbell Lower Back and Legs

Workout: Standard squats with a barbell strengthens your lower back, legs, and core for strength and stability.

The Hunting Application: This exercise has one of the most practical applications of any hunting workout as it applies to almost every aspect of the hunt from packing in gear to scaling the mountain to packing out the animal you’ve harvested. Do NOT overlook this highly effective training exercise while preparing for your next hunting trip.

Weighted Sled

Workout: The weighted sled workout is huge for overall strength and increases endurance by raising the heart sand forcing you to control your breathing.

The Hunting Application: There’s nothing worse than going on a hunt you’ve been planning for several months and realizing once you’re there that you’re not physically prepared. Struggle with the sled, and excel on the mountain. This approach will make your hunt that much more enjoyable!

Trap Bar Deadlift

Workout: Deadlifts are a great way to strengthen your legs, back, and core

The Hunting Application: Lower back injuries are common in the mountains. Lifting totes onto the pack mules, fetching water from the spring, packing your animal back to the horses. All of these tasks are a great opportunity to get hurt if you don’t strengthen your core with exercises like this…

Weighted Pull Ups

Workout: Pull ups speak for themselves… Pull your chest up to the bar and return to rest. This exercise builds several muscle groups to increase upper body strength in general.

The Hunting Application: Whether you’re hanging a new set for whitetails or scaling the final boulder to get to a better vantage point for glassing an opposing mountain range, pull ups are the perfect exercise to give you the upper body strength you need to get where you need to be!

Shoulder Press

Workout: Shoulder press works your anterior and medial deltoid (shoulder) muscles.

The Hunting Application: You name it… Hoisting gear onto your pack horse. Hanging tree stand sets. Drawing your bow. Anything at eye level or above uses these muscles.

Rhomboid Row

Workout: Rows are a great workout for strengthening your back and specifically your rhomboids, which lie between your shoulder blades and your posterior deltoids, the rear part of your shoulder.

The Hunting Application: This exercise is critical for shot execution and being able to stay at full draw for long periods of time. You’ll be surprised how much easier your bow is to shoot after you’ve been doing this exercise for a while…

Train to Hunt Challenge:

More often than not, most hunters begin their workout programs in July to get ready for the fall. It’s difficult if you have not been working out all year to get motivated or know where to start. Fall seems a long way off and it is often difficult to begin a workout regime in the late winter or spring. Having something to train for in the summer is a great motivator. Train To Hunt was created with this in mind.

There are now nearly a dozen Challenges throughout the country where you can test your fitness and archery shooting skills with others and have something to train for. Although the format has changed for 2017, it is a great program to get you ready for the hunting season, several months before you may have gotten started, The Challenges are a one-day event, and include a 3-D archery shoot in the morning and a Challenge Course in the afternoon. The 19 target, 3-D shoot includes some hunting situations, like shooting from a kneeling position, shooting and then drawing and shooting a follow-up shot within 10 seconds. The afternoon portion includes a longer course where you pack your bow and some weight in your pack and shoot targets along the way. Your 3-D score and your time and score on the Challenge Course are combined for an overall score. Not only does this give some motivation to begin a workout program, the Challenges are a lot of fun and the camaraderie is amazing! Train to Hunt not only puts on these challenges, they also have a workout generator (see below) on the website and can help you create a daily workout depending on your available time and fitness level!

Click Here for the Workout Generator!

Conclusion…Keep the Hunt in Mind

Western hunting is hard when we make it harder than it needs to be. Aside from the challenge of the chase, your body should not have to be the reason you struggle to fill a tag. Training for hunting or performing these hunting workouts in the offseason with the goal of being able to hunt in mind should be your driving power. Don’t let the daunting task of working out or climbing a mountain be the reason your western hunting adventure failed.

Ruger precision rifles are so versatile yet easily affordable that they make for a great choice for entry-level precision shooters. Because of their versatility, your scope choice will also differ based on your intended use.

For instance, for the Ruger Precision Rimfire .22lr where you’ll be doing mostly short-range shooting and plinking, a magnification range of 3-9x or 4-12x will be fine for you. On the other hand, scopes with magnifications in the range of 6-24x or 5-20x are often preferred for mid to long-range shooting when your RPR is chambered in .308 or 6mm Creedmoor.

But no money is ever wasted when invested in quality optics. We reviewed some of today’s best scopes for Ruger Precision Rifles that budget-conscious shooters will love to check out. Here comes our findings.

Our Reviewed Best Scopes for Ruger Precision Rifles

Vortex Optics 2-7×32 Crossfire II riflescope (Editor’s Choice)

The Ruger Precision Rifle is top-drawer stuff. The high-end rifle chassis is designed from the ground up. Chassis guns are those where the barrel and stock are bolted. A beauty like The Ruger Precision Rifle needs a perfect scope, one that delivers at extreme range accurately. The Ruger has a flattop profile that makes it pretty easy to mount a scope.

Crossfire II is a darn good choice. Coming from the reputable Vortex stable, this 2-7 X 32 scope is what you can score with at 1000 yards

With its multicoated lenses, and great waterproofing, this scope made of aircraft-grade aluminum is highly durable that is low weight. However it a Second Focal Plane scope.

What we liked and did not like:

• The turrets are adjustable, are capped, and present a low profile. But they are rather squishy and do not have audible clicks. The turrets track poorly and the maximum magnification is 12x because of this.
• We quite liked the BDC reticle. It is a great choice as you can extend the range without messing around without adjusting the turrets.
• Another bothersome on higher magnifications upwards of 7x is the eye box of the Crossfire II. It has to be exact to fully take in the sight picture. Furthermore, the edges of the glass get blurry.
• We found it pretty disadvantageous that the reticle is not illuminated.
• Our team pretty much liked the fast-focus eyepiece.

We decided to compare the performance of Crossfire II. So we lined it up with the similar priced Vortex Diamondback. The glass is a great deal clearer and the reticle crisper. The eye box for the Diamond is a lot more forgiving. When we tested them at dusk, the Diamondback proved to be brighter. The Diamondback also scored higher on turret adjustment with its clear clicks.

Specifications

Pros

• Affordable
• Illuminated and BDC reticle options
• Zero resettable turrets
• Vortex transferable lifetime warranty

Cons

• Glass not good enough with higher magnification
• Eye box inadequate on higher magnification
• Light transmission not so good in low light conditions.
• Turrets do not track well

Our Verdict

The Vortex Crossfire II is a budget scope. It can help in getting your hunting and range shooting done well without breaking the bank. We can say that it is an okay scope for entry-level. It is great value for money though.

Vortex Optics Diamondback Tactical First Focal Plane Riflescopes (Great Value)

The Diamondback Tactical is the ideal objective Vortex for the RPG. It is a First Focal Plane scope that promises superior performance and ensures that all the requirements of you – the user – are met. Made of premium materials, the Diamondback has great loadbearing capacity.

With this high-quality scope, downing prey at a distance can be quite accurate.

The reticle is an EBR-2C MOA. This primary and important feature is pretty effective in determining ranges, windage corrections, holdovers, and leads to moving targets. Laser etchings that boast ultra-precision on the glass that ensures MOA specs tolerances are kept to the minimum possible.

It is made of aircraft-grade aluminum that is hard anodized. Fog-proof, waterproof, and shock-free, this scope passes all checks with flying colors.

Other noteworthy features are the Precision- Force Spring system and the Precision Glide Erector system make it easier for the hunter.

• We find that the most awesome aspect of this scope is its optic system. The 6 – 24x magnification coupled with a 50 mm objective makes us sit up.
• Another huge plus we find is the sturdy construction and well-mounted turrets. When twisted into position are near impossible to dislodge even if you bump into things or move around in the undergrowth.
• We quite found the reticle crosshairs an optimum balance between precision aiming in poor light visibility. The windage reference dots on the droplines are a major improvement.
• This beauty is lightweight to boot.
• Care shows. It comes with both lens covers, a lens cloth, and a sunshade
• By far what appealed to us the most was their guarantee policy. Vortex products come with their VIP guarantee which is a Very Important Promise. It bypasses how it happened, whose fault, or where it was purchased. Vortex undertakes that if repair is not a viable option, they will replace it. No questions asked.

Specifications

Pros

• Has a 30 mm shock-proof tube
• Comes with a glass that is low-dispersion
• Reticle focusing is effortless

Cons

• Light may be lost at higher magnifications

Our Verdict

In one sentence, the Vortex Diamondback is a marvelous piece of work. Just what the doctor ordered to partner with the Ruger Professional Gun. Vector has once again furthered their credentials in the field of optics. And wonders, it is budget-friendly too. Their warranty offered speaks volumes about their confidence in this scope. We are truly enthralled with it.

CVLIFE Hunting Rifle Scope 6-24×50 (Budget Choice)

The CVLife 6-24×50 offers plenty of features for the price it comes at. The turrets are capped, are of solid construction, and easily adjustable. The zero holds well even after many shots.

Adjustments for elevation and windage are in 1/18 inch increments with every click at 100 yards. The illumination type of this scope is AOE(around the objective end) red and green.

It is made of high-strength aluminum alloy. The reticle is a red and green mildot with 5 levels of brightness controls. A parallax adjustment is not provided. The eyepiece has accurate dioptric adjustment.

The multicoated optics enhance picture quality. The coating is scratch proof and protects from dust, smudges, and other damage.

• We found that the adjustment range is overall sufficient but unfortunately the parallax adjustment is not provided.
• We also found the glass quality a bit lacking and not what more expensive scopes provide. However, we admit it’s better than what we expected.
• Another plus is that this scope is easily adjustable and once you have sighted it, hitting the target constantly is easy.
• The mounts are not a universal fit. They are for weaver dovetail and Picatinny rails. The provided manual is not very helpful so you have to play around to figure it out. The mount scopes provided are simply not great. You have to buy additional rings and mounts to do away with the problem.

Specifications

Pros

• Great for long-range shooting
• Easily adjustable
• Easily zeroed
• Satisfactory zoom quality

Cons

• Glass quality could be better
• Not suitable for all rifles

Our Verdict

The CVLIFE 6-24 x 50 is one of the best scopes for Ruger Precision rifles for long-range hunting and shooting with a solid construction. The adjustments are simple and easy. You will not be handicapped getting a shot at the target once you have zeroed the scope. This scope is suitable for use in low-light conditions. The optics on other similar scopes are better though but they cost a whale lot more.

Pinty 3-9X40 Red Green Rangefinder Illuminated Optical Rifle Scope

Pinty is an optics company that is situated in China. The scope rings can be easily fitted on any 20mm Picatinny or Weaver rails. The reticle type is the Rangefinder rather than a Mildot and is AOE red and green with 5 levels of brightness.

It is made of aerospace aluminum and is pretty sturdy and versatile. Lens covers are provided. Warranty conditions do not get a mention anywhere.

• One huge letdown is the lack of parallax adjustment. This boils down to efficient shooting within 100 yards. Beyond that, your estimate of drop distance comes into play.
• We found that the lenses could slip out of position darkening and blurring the objective.
• We did discover a rather simple way to zero. Spin the focus knob on the rear till the crosshairs are visible clearly and you are good to go. But this is an area the makers need to take a keen look at. If it can zero and hold it, we are looking at a deal changer.
• We dig the colored reticle that works superbly in low light conditions. Great value honestly.
• We were disappointed with the limited adjustment. The problem was with the crosshairs which hamper zeroing.
• Also, we were not impressed with the seals. They appeared somewhat flimsy. There is the danger of the nitrogen purging escaping, rendering the fog proofing and water-proofing appear dicey.
• The included rings are of poor quality.
• In its praise the build quality is sound.
• We also found that the Rangefinder capabilities could be better but it’s not a deal-breaker. The calculatable range hash marks provide an alternative.
• We loved the zoom feature. It worked pretty fine.

Specifications

Pros

• Relatively inexpensive
• Water and fog-proof
• Easy to mount
• Ideal illumination

Cons

• A bit on the heavier side
• Objective not adjustable

Our Verdict

Considering the price point, the Pinty appears to be of decent quality. However, we feel they may not last your entire shooting career. But then again there are few scopes, even expensive ones that may not last forever. We would welcome being more informative and come out with more details. Right now, it’s a bit sketchy and they need to be more forthcoming. A riflescope is not a toy. Hopefully, as more shooters use their scope and reviews pour in, they will get wiser. For now, have a blast on a budget.

Simmons 3-9x32mm .22 Waterproof Fogproof Matte Black Riflescope (511039)

The Simmons 3-9 x 32 .22 Mag is pretty suitable for small game hunting, varmint hunting, and target shooting. Nevertheless, the optics Simmons has put into the .22 has large-game optics into much-favored rimfire scope, the Mag .22.

This scope is far from cheap, ordinary, or flimsy. The body is constructed of one piece for unmatched durability under the most trying field conditions. It is still a budget scope but comes with a terrific booster- the lens coating that is HydoShield and can weather it all.

That’s not all. The eyepiece is Quick Target Acquisition with an eye relief of 3.75 inches for a swift and immediate sight picture. Make things a good deal comfy when out in the field, SureGrip adjustments can be used even with gloved hands.

The included rings are 1 inch with ? dovetail mounts that will fit most .22 rifle grooves.

• We found the reticle somewhat wanting. The reticle is what Simmons terms a Truplex. The crosshairs are thick and extend all the way to the edges of the field of view. The crosshairs thin out towards the center of the reticle without a stadia line or dots to figure out ballistic yardages. A big letdown.
• Another sore point with us is that the adjustments are somewhat non-responsive.
• The other thing that got us a bit disappointed was the lack of a parallax adjustment feature. However, there is a Matte Black and Silver finish in this line that does feature parallax adjustment by way of an objective that is adjustable.
• The Simmons .22 Mag is ultra-light which is a big winner.
• A big thumbs up to this feature-packed riflescope.

Specifications

Pros

• Affordable price
• Body of one-piece
• An eyepiece that is Quick Target Acquisition
• Reliable SureGrip
• Coating of HydroShield

Cons

• Issues with the reticle
• Issues with adjustment

Our Verdict

The Simmons .22 Mag riflescope hits the bullseye when it comes to the best scope for ruger precision rimfire 22. Simmons does offer what recreational hunters and shooters look for in a budget scope. Keeping it right on the money where the cost comes into play, and outperforming on quality are their hallmarks.

How to Find the Best Scopes for Ruger Precision Rifles?

1. Magnification

The right magnification is undoubtedly desirable for owning a profitable and perfect scope for the Ruger Precision Rifle. Excellent magnification translates into precise zooming in and out capabilities. Magnification plays a prime role in achieving your target with zero errors and zero difficulties.

A wider range of magnification provides a clear and crisp image of the object even when the range is far. A scope with adequate versatility can be used for both short and long-range shooting effectively.

Compare your options carefully and settle for the magnification called for in the situation. Initially, you need to figure out how to best use the optics system and you should make sure of the purpose of the scope. Don’t fall for the misconception that the widest magnification range is the most ideal to bag the target easily. Opting for wider magnification will result in blurry visuals.

In our experience, a magnification range of 12-18x gives a great field view and the right high elevation adjustment opportunity. This illustration can be of help.

And how much of objective diameter is required.

2. Distance

This factor is at the fore when looking for the best scope for Ruger Precision rifles. Depending on your shooting style, determine the average shooting distance first. Employing a short-range scope for a long-distance target will result in weak and blurred images that will leave you pretty much frustrated.

Mid-range shooting can be anything from 600 yards to 1500 yards. Over this range, we are looking at long-range. There are quite a few scopes in the market catering to short-range and mid-range.

You need to be a bit picky when it comes to a long-range scope. They are expensive but serve your purpose well.

3. Construction

The Ruger Precision Rifle calls for great scopes constructed of aircraft-grade aluminum. This ensures ruggedness. These scopes have to possess multiple standard proofs that ensure the scope’s capability to overcome adverse weather conditions and other trying external influences.

Performance and durability are furthered by reliable O-ring sealing and efficient gas purging. These features play an important role to detect targets without bothering about moisture and fogging issues.

4. Clarity and Glass Quality

Clarity, needless to say, is another crucial touchpoint when homing on that perfect scope for your Ruger Rifle. Obviously, if the clarity is missing in the sight or image, the entire effort put in to capture a target gets tossed out.

A clarity scope is one that will render strong and clear visuals even on max magnification. The resulting detailed imagery can help you shoot a flea off your prey. So choose wisely.

5. Multiproof Technology

All adventure aspects of a scope can be accomplished perfectly if good care has gone into the gas filling and purging as well as O-ring sealing. Multiproof in the scope is a measure of good O-sealing arrangements that ensure nitrogen or argon purging offers optimal protection and performance in different weather conditions.

6. Reticle Style

In the industry, the term “reticle” simply refers to the crosshairs. The design of reticles is for many purposes, such as general hunting and low-light shooting and everything in between. There are so many different types of reticles that it is impossible to cover all of them.

To name a few, there is the original reticle, the Bullet drop Compensation reticle, the Millidot Radian reticle, The MIl reticle, the Minute of Angle reticle, the illuminated reticle, and so on.

We are interested here in what the suitable reticles are for the Ruger Precision Rifle. The starting point is that they must be practical, uncomplicated, and convenient visually for tactical operations and long-range competitors. Our research puts the Vortex EBR-2 at the forefront.

The MOAR reticle is another held in much favor.

This reticle offers great precision at extreme ranges. It allows accurate range-finding and holdover estimations at the longest destinations.

Great for beginners

The three main reticle types

7. Turrets

The fundamental and important role of the turret is that it serves to initialize your scope to zero. This is the procedure to finetune your scope’s reticle adjustment so your rounds make an impact with the target bang on. The key to understanding your optics is in understanding your turrets.

Turrets are important as they define the accuracy of your scope. Just screwing up the turrets will result in zilch. There are 3 important things to look for in a reliable turret:

• Reliability
• An audible “click’ sound
• Repeatability means that the turret adjustment is immediate. This is the hallmark of a high-quality turret.

These, simply put are knobs for adjustments to your scope on the horizontal and vertical planes. Each adjustment or click is measured as a measure of MOA or MRAD. Let’s take a look at the different types of turrets:

Windage Turret- This aligns your scope’s aim from left to right.

Elevation Turret – This adjusts your scope’s aim from the top to the bottom.

Parallax Adjustment Turret- This kob eliminates parallax.

8. Ease of adjustment

The sight picture has to be pretty perfect before you fire that first shot. There are a lot of adjustments that have to be pat before you press that trigger.

• The reticle should be centered and upright first of all. We are looking for a crisp and clear image. Blacking or smudging at the ends needs to be symmetrical. If that is not the case, we do need to readjust.
• The next thing to have a look at is eye relief. Looking through the scope, it should be within 3-9 inches. If you are uncomfortable with how close the eyepiece is to your eye, try adding an inch more. You don’t want the recoil to give you a black eye.
• The final adjustments will come when you take that first shot. The bullet can hit a bit high or low than anticipated. If the bullet hits high, the reticle has to be adjusted slightly higher and vice-versa. Yes, you heard that right. It’s a hit-and-trial endeavor.
• Windage adjustments work the same way. If you score a hit to the left of the target, you want to adjust the reticle to the left.
• Zeroing in is the sum result of the above mentioned. Set up your rifle in a static, immovable position. Fire 3 shots.
• Check the results, make further adjustments to elevation and windage knobs till you score that perfect bullseye.
• You are up for business now.

9. Lens coating

Cutting to the chase, lens coatings are integral. They have to be foolproof. There are four basic ways this is done:

Coated- A single layer covers only one surface of the scope.

Fully-Coated- All the external glass is coated in a single layer.

Multicoated- Several layers coat one surface

Fully Multicoated- All the external glass on the scope is coated in several layers

10. Warranty and Budget

Buy once, cry once – the only thing you need to remember when setting up a budget for your rifles. For long-range shooting and hunting, you’ll need quality glasses, and they don’t come cheap. In fact, these types of optics often end up costing more than the firearm itself.

However, not everybody can afford the best scope for Ruger Precision rifles. That’s why most of our choices were made keeping the budget-conscious gun enthusiast in mind.

Scope care and maintenance tips

A well-designed riflescope is fog-proof and water-proof. A well-designed scope is made for taking a beating. They can sure deal with a little bit of dirt and grime. But what can harm them seriously are gun cleaning solvents and powders. These will wreak havoc and cause irreparable damage. The solution- quality lens caps.

Now some Dos and Don’ts

• Never touch your scope with your hands. This is a surefire way to mess things. Whenever there are smudges or dirt, we instinctively use our shirtsleeves to clear them off. Big, big mistake. You will scratch the lens. Use a microfiber cloth or a lens pen, please.
• You spent big bucks for your hunting rig. Just spend a few minutes after each outing cleaning up.
• Do not forget to examine the scope. Report any cracks or any external issues to the makers immediately. The equipment can fail so this correction/ repair/ replacement is imperative.
• How you stow away your scope is another vital action. Make sure it is well-wrapped in a solid scope cover and we are good.

FAQs

1. What magnification do I need for my Ruger Precision Rifle?

Ans: This mainly depends on your intended use. For long-range shooting, you’ll need a higher magnification scope such as a 5-25x or 6-24x. For closer range shooting or hunting, 1-6x or 2-10x will do.

2. How Much Should I Spend on a Scope for a Ruger Precision Rifle?

Ans: By current market estimates we are looking at anything from $800 to $1500. But then there is a 2 to 1 rule; if your gun costs $1000, you should spend $500 on the scope.

3. Should I use MOA or MIL?

Ans: Both MOA or MIL have their own place. Both are linear values to decide upon. There are no clear winners here. Shoot with whatever you are comfortable with.

4. How far can the Ruger precision rifle shoot?

Ans: Out of the box, it can easily touch the coveted 1000 meter mark. The current CEO of Ruger Professional Guns, Mike Fifer pegs it at 1600 meters. Why don’t you check it out yourself?

5. Do I need to use a specific size scope rings for the Ruger Precision Rifle?

Ans: The Ruger Precision Rifle usually uses 30mm scope rings but some models may require 34mm or other sizes depending on the scope and the rifle configuration.

6. Can I use a red dot sight on a Ruger Precision Rifle?

Ans: Yes, you can use a red dot sight on the Ruger Precision Rifle if you prefer a simple and lightweight sighting system. But since most people use this bolt-action rifle for long-range shooting, a red dot sight won’t do any good in long ranges.

The elk, Cervus canadensis (formerly Cervus elaphus canadensis), is one of the largest members of the deer family. Its tracks and sign are similar to those of deer, but think larger hooves, longer strides, larger scat pellets, and look for feeding sign and antler rubs higher on trees. Identifying elk tracks and sign is essential for camera trapping the species and rutting sign is especially useful because animals tend to re-use these spots. The elk in the photo above was captured with a trail camera targeting the antler rub (see below under “rutting behavior”) because the bull was likely to return.

Tracks and trails

As members of the deer family, elk have cloven hooves. Elk tracks are larger than deer tracks and smaller than moose tracks, but overlap in size with both deer and moose tracks. However, elk tracks are noticeably rounder. Front tracks of an adult are about 4 inches long and wide. Hind tracks are smaller and narrower, about 3 1/2 inches long and 3 inches wide. Like deer and moose, elk have 2 dewclaws on each foot, situated higher up on the leg. In soft substrate or when the animal is running, hooves may splay and dewclaws may register.

Elk usually travel in an alternating walk with a step length of 1 1/2 to 3 feet, and a trail width of 7-13 inches. But because they are social animals which travel in groups, you often find a mess of tracks left by multiple animals rather than a nice clear trail pattern of one individual.

Scat

Elk excrete pellets measuring about 3/4 inch by 1/2 inch. Dry forage, commonly consumed in winter, results in discrete pellets. A diet of moist, lush vegetation results in clumped pellets or even pies.

Feeding sign

To find feeding sign, you must know the animal’s diet. In spring and summer, elk feed on grasses, sedges, forbs, aquatic plants, and leaves of trees and shrubs, such as aspens, willows, serviceberry, and chokeberry. In winter they paw through the snow for grass and eat the twigs and bark of trees, especially aspen. Grass makes up a larger portion of the elk’s diet than the deer’s or moose’s diet.

The key to find grazing and browsing sign is ragged ends: Like deer and moose, elk have lower incisors but not upper incisors, so they cannot make clean cuts through plants the way rodents and rabbits can. Instead, they tear vegetation between their lower incisors and the upper hard palate, leaving frayed ends. When consuming bark, they scrape upward with their lower incisors, often leaving frayed bark at the upper end of the scrape.

When you find ungulate feeding sign, consider the height. Deer feeding sign is usually 1-3 feet above the ground, moose sign 3-7 feet off the ground, and elk sign is in between, overlapping with both deer and moose. Snow pack allows each species to reach even higher. Obviously it’s not always possible to determine the species based solely on feeding sign, so look for scat and tracks, as well.

Rutting sign

During the elk rut, spanning September and October in the north and more spread out in the south, bulls thrash and rub their antlers and foreheads on trees and shrubs, leaving behind broken branches, stripped bark, and sometimes hair. They also leave behind scent from their pre-orbital glands, thus communicating with other elk. Conifer saplings are often used, and the rubbed area is usually 2-5 feet above the ground. Bulls also create wallows in moist areas by churning up mud with hooves and/or goring with antlers. He urinates into the scrape and onto his neck and then sits down into the pit and rolls his neck, caking his mane with urine-soaked mud.

Do you have any questions or pointers about finding or identifying elk tracks and sign? Feel free to share in a comment below.

Sources

Elbroch, M. Mammal Tracks & Sign: A Guide to North American Species. Mechanicsburg, PA: Stackpole Books, 2003.Rocky Mountain Elk Foundation: Elk Basics.

Related Posts

White-tailed Deer Scrape ActionMoose Hooves and LegsPronghorn Tracks and Sign

Updated: 9.21.23: Added Tyrant Designs and HIVIZ to list.

The Glock 19 is one of the most popular concealed carry weapons for a reason. It’s affordable, comfortable to lug around, and it packs a powerful 15+1 capacity punch.

But when you’re trusting your life with a handgun, you don’t want it to simply be close to perfection – you want it to be flawless. For a number of Glock 19 owners, this flawless design was interrupted by Glock’s OEM sights.

It’s not that the factory sights were inherently bad…they just didn’t go above and beyond to improve accuracy, precision, and target acquisition.

The good news about owning a Glock 19 (or any Glock, really) is that you’ve got unlimited access to aftermarket parts that can improve your performance. And if you’re going suppressed, you’ll want some suppressor-height sights.

And for a gun like the G19, which was designed for concealed carry, you want sights that do a better job of attracting your attention than the OEM sights.

Today, we’re looking at some sights that will turn your compact pistol into a concealed carry masterpiece.

THE QUICK LIST

Why You Should Trust Us

We here at Pew Pew Tactical believe in bringing you the best information based on testing we’ve done. Every model we recommend is based on hours of research, range testing, and concealed carry with the sights equipped on our various Glocks.

We spend hands-on time with every model to make sure that it can withstand the rigors of range days, home defense, and concealed carry.

Best Glock 19 Sights

1. Trijicon HD XR Night Sight Set

Trijicon’s HD XR Night Sight set aims to maximize durability and target acquisition through its illuminated design, which is set up to immediately draw your eye to the front post.

Unlike some of the other night-sight sets out there, the HD XR is heavy-duty and able to withstand repetitive drawing without wearing down. Also, sturdy aluminum cylinders built into the sight help protect the tritium-phosphor lamps from any damage that could happen while operating your gun.

Another great feature about the HD XR, which sets it apart from some of Trijicon’s other iron sights, is the narrow front post, which is .022 inches thinner than other sights. While this doesn’t seem like a major change, it does help with making target acquisition faster by improving the shooter’s field of view.

In terms of functionality, the HD XR does everything that iron sights are supposed to do and then some.

Zeroing in on your target is as simple as lighting up the front dot between the two rear dots, which is made easier thanks to the brightly colored lamps built into the sight.

This attention-grabbing design makes it less likely for you to overlook the sights in a high-stress situation where your adrenaline’s pumping and you don’t have time to think before you react.

What do you think of the Trijicon? Rate them below!

2. DXT2 Big Dot

If you want to break away from the standard 3-dot sight picture, the DXT2 Big Dot is a great option.

As the name makes it sound — you use a big dot and set it on top of a vertical line, basically aiming using a lowercase “i.”

For some, this can be much faster and more intuitive than trying to align 3-dots and check for spacing on either side.

Combined with the fact that these are Tritium night sights and are always visible, the DXT2 has some major pluses going for it.

And you get to pick from Orange or Yellow!

3. TRUGLO Tritium Sights

One of the most cost-effective options is the TRUGLO Tritium Sights.

Simple and to the point with inner tritium and nice visible white outlines.

If you’re looking for a no-muss, no-fuss wallet-friendly option, this is what you want.

4. XS RAM Night Sight

Big, Tritium Night Sights, 3-dot system — the XS RAM Night Sights are simple but very effective. There isn’t much to say about these since they are fairly straightforward, but that doesn’t mean they aren’t awesome.

These are some of our favorites.

One of the best-hidden features is what they call their Ember Glow Dot Technology. This is a cool set of words to mean that the front sight glows brighter than the rear.

A brighter front sight really helps draw your eye to it and keeps you focused on where you should be, and assists in accurate, fast shots while in less-than-ideal lighting conditions.

Add in a 10-year warranty and rock-solid construction, and the XS RAM speaks for itself.

5. Night Fision

Got a suppressor, RMR, or want a super easy-to-see orange front sight? Check out the to the Night Fision.

They claim to have the brightest tritium available and have been making compasses for the military for years using the same material.

I got my hands on one in suppressor height that is super easy to acquire in the daytime and lights up bright in the dark.

Also co-witnesses with my Trijicon RMR, so I’m a happy camper.

6. Tyrant Designs Glock Compatible Sights

While not tritium-based, these 7075 Aluminum are tough and offer high contrast for sight acquisition.

You’ll notice the serrations and matte finish are intentional, designed to eliminate glare.

The angles have been laid out in a manner intended to draw the eye forward.

Overall, these work as intended and also offer a nice little aesthetic touch.

Honorable Mentions

• AmeriGlo Fiber Optic Sight: The most cost-efficient way to venture into fiber optics…note only the front is fiber optic but still great on a budget.

• TruGlo TFX: Tritium AND fiber optic for the best of both worlds.

• HIVIZ Litewave H3: This one uses a combo of Tritium and the company’s “Litepipe technology” for bright, illuminated sights.

Does Color Really Matter?

Bright, illuminated sights are better than your standard iron sights for the following reasons:

• They do a better job of attracting your eyes to the front sight, which is easy for the untrained shooter to forget to do in a high-adrenaline situation.
• These make it easier to see the target in a low-light setting.
• Colors help prevent your sights from becoming hardily visible in low light.

But does it matter which color you choose?

Some people claim that bright green is proven to attract your eye quicker than any other color.

But in my experience, it’s the brightness that draws my eye to the front sight – not the color. For me, it doesn’t matter what color my sights are as long as they’re bright enough to capture my attention when I’m aiming.

With that said, some people who use Trijicon sights like to have contrasting colors for their rear and front sights. Their rear sights might illuminate orange, whereas their front sight has a bright green dot.

The idea behind this is that the contrasting colors make it more likely for the shooter to focus on the front dot in the middle since it’s a different color than the rest. Whether that works or not depends on the person.

Installation

Glock sights come on and off pretty easily…check out How to Install Glock Sights Without a Sight Tool.

But for those that still want a tool (if you have other handguns besides Glock), take a look at our round-up of the Best Sight Pusher Tools.

Final Thoughts

Night sights can make a world of difference for Glock users who want to ditch OEM sights for something better.

Whether you want sights to see over your suppressor or just want to add some color to make aiming easier, these recommendations will help you get on target.

What night sights do you run? Let us know in the comments below! Need more parts for your Glock? Check out the Best Glock Upgrades for more inspiration.

At SKRE, we offer a couple of different base layers for hunting. We have our merino wool base layers and we have a polyester blend base layers. Our merino wool base layers are the Kaibab series. We offer that in a 150 weight, which is really lightweight merino wool, and a 300 weight, with a little bit of spandex added for comfortable wearing, and that is our mid-weight merino wool.

Our polyester blend is the Wasatch. It is one weight – kind of a lightweight, in between a light and a mid.

Today, I’m going to compare merino wool versus polyester. I want to go over a couple of things about each one, how you might use them, why you might use them, and that sort of thing.

When To Wear Base Layers

You might ask yourself, you know, do I even need to wear base layers? Well, I think one of the things that you have to understand when it comes to performance layering systems and all performance gear, the base layer is doing a lot of work.

The outer layers are designed to be just that – they’re outer shell layers. They’re designed to keep the elements out and allow the layers on the inside to do their job.

So when you get into a situation where you are layering, you need something that’s performance-based against your skin, whether it’s two layers or just one layer, underneath your outer.

Whether you’re wearing merino wool or polyester, or any combination of the two, you need a high-quality base layer to get the best performance out of your layering system.

I personally almost always wear a base layer of some kind unless it is really, really hot. But once the season gets going and we get into cooler temperatures, we’re pretty much always going to do something on base layers.

Differences of Merino Wool Versus Polyester

Our polyester blend is a very silky, soft, comfortable fabric. We use polyester in almost everything in the clothing world. So everyone’s pretty familiar with it. I feel like the Wasatch in the polyester blend is probably a little bit more durable, but it doesn’t perform nearly as well, in terms of what a base layer should be doing. And I do feel like in a way the polyester kind of holds in more. It kind of works more as a barrier type of base layer.

Merino wool actually comes from a Merino sheep. It’s super fine and it’s a super fabric the way it wicks moisture, it’s anti-microbial, it doesn’t hold on the scent. It is a fantastic product, but merino wool requires a little bit more attention when it comes to taking care of and even when using it.

When to Wear Merino Wool Versus Polyester

I always use the lightweight merino wool next to skin. Pretty much exclusively, always wearing that. And even when it’s warm, I like to wear the lightweight merino wool because it wicks moisture off my skin. So, even when it’s warm, I wear the lightweight next to skin. If I’m doing anything mobile or I’m walking any distance, I always wear merino wool. Because it breathes better and it wicks moisture. Wicking moisture off your skin is a very important thing when it comes to how your base layers perform.

I love to use the polyester Wasatch top as a mild temperature, long sleeve t-shirt. But I like to use it as a mid-layer as well. Sometimes I’ll wear it kind of as an in-between. Like I said before, I feel like it holds in body temperature a little more, so if I’m not moving a whole lot, if I’m not going very far, I’ll wear polyester because I kind of feel like it’s a little bit warmer.

Recap

So just to recap, the best way for you to get the true, full effect of what a performance layering system can do for you is to make sure you have a high-quality base layer, whether you’re wearing merino wool or polyester, or any combination of the two. So set yourself up with the best layering system on the market and shop SKRE’s base layers today.

If there’s one enduring lesson from 2020, it’s that family matters. And for upstate New York bowhunter Phillip Pless, that’s never been more apparent than when it comes to the autumn pursuit of whitetails.

A disabled veteran from Newfane, N.Y. who served in the United States Navy, Pless saw all levels of family become an important cog in his recent hunt for a huge buck on a small farm barely 10 miles from Lake Ontario. From his wife to his extended family to even a late grandfather he never met; all played a key role in Pless’ recent bowhunt for a buck apparently destined for the upper reaches of the record book.

When the smoke had cleared from his recent outing, the 43-year old bowhunter — who has chased deer since he was 16 and has hunted whitetails with a bow since 2010 — had a massive 5 ½-year-old non-typical that could push up toward state-record status in the Pope and Young Club record book for the Empire State.

While he’ll have to wait until the mandatory 60-day drying period is over to find out what the buck’s official score is early next year, the early green numbers on Pless’ Nov. 8 bowkill put it into benchmark territory at 222 6/8 inches gross and 213 7/8 inches net.

If the numbers on the Pless buck hold, it stands to wrestle the top spot away in the archery record book from a 2011 buck taken in Suffolk County by Michael Giarraputo. That whitetail scored 209 6/8 inches net and has been the Pope and Young Club state record non-typical buck ever since.

Until Pless’ recent bowhunt, that is. Not bad for a bowhunter who wasn’t even sure if he would be able to get out into the woods on the fateful Sunday afternoon.

“I was at home watching the kids while my wife ran some errands, and I really had no plans to hunt that day,” said Pless. “Plus, the local fire company was having a raffle gun drawing on Facebook and I kind of wanted to watch that along with the Bills game.”

But when his wife Elizabeth arrived home around mid-afternoon — and with the Bills doing well on the gridiron in their eventual 44-34 win over the Seattle Seahawks — a beautiful fall afternoon in November proved to be too strong a temptation for the enthusiastic bowhunter.

“Since the Bills were winning, I said to my wife, ‘You know what? I’m going to go hunting,’” chuckled Pless.

So he quickly put on his new birthday present, a pair of LaCrosse rubber boots from his wife, and got dressed in his favorite Realtree Edge camouflage. Then Pless made the short 10-minute drive to the small family farm, hiked to his ladder stand, and put on a cover scent he relies heavily upon.

“I’ve tried to access my stands like the pros do,” said Pless. “I watch all of the TV shows and try to watch the wind like the pros do. But I also put on a Conquest scent on the bottom of my boots.”

After doing so, he climbed up to see what the afternoon would bring. Hopefully it would deliver a chance at a bruiser buck that Pless had seen for four years on his Wildgame Innovation trail cameras. But despite hunting the farm regularly, having a couple of the buck’s sheds, and having a growing library of trail camera photos, in the field sightings were all but non-existent for the big non-typical.

With any luck, that would change. But after getting settled in around mid-afternoon, the first hour was uneventful as Pless sat in his stand overlooking the old fruit tree farm that is now a mix of uplands, soybean and corn fields, as well as scattered woods.

As Pless waited, hoping to see the buck that had disappeared from his cameras in recent weeks, the beautiful fall afternoon with mild temperatures and light winds drew his wife to the family farm to walk with the couple’s young children — 3-year-old Grace, 2-year-old Liam, and the couple’s soon-to-be-born son Easton.

“After I had been sitting in the stand for a little bit, my wife had texted and said that she had come to the farm with the kids,” said Pless. “She asked if she could walk back that way with the kids. I told her yes, but not to come too far. When they got to a certain spot, I’d wave at them.”

But as Pless dropped his cell phone back into a pocket, he looked up and had to catch his breath — the giant buck he had watched for four years now was in the scrub field in front of him with a doe.

“I looked at him through my Vortex binoculars — I use the 10×42 Diamondback HD set — to make sure it was him, then I took couple of pics and sent them to my wife and told her not to come back here because he was here.”

While the full details of Pless’ hunt will be saved for a future issue of North American Whitetail magazine, suffice it to say that the bowhunter began a cat-and-mouse game with the giant buck that lasted into the final minutes of sunlight. At first, the buck disappeared into the woods while the original doe remained in the field. A short while later, the buck reappeared with a couple of other does and chased one around briefly as the group slowly advanced in the bowhunter’s direction.

When it seemed like the bruiser would come no closer, Pless decided to trust his long hours of practice work on the shooting range this year as he sought to improve his skills at longer distances. Drawing his Hoyt Maxus 31 back, he steadied the sight pin on his Trophy Ridge sight, touched the release, and let the Easton arrow and Rage broadhead sail downrange towards the buck 40+ yards away.

“As I drew back, I prayed to God that I wouldn’t miss and then I let the arrow go,” said Pless. “He turned a bit on the shot, but the arrow hit him and went through the shoulder, shattering it, and getting lung. He went about 80 yards, stopped about four times — each time I could see blood coming out — and then I saw him drop.”

Composing himself — Pless admitted he started shaking like a leaf after he cut the shot loose — the archer waited until dark. As he climbed down, the bowhunter ruefully discovered that in his haste to get out of the house and into his stand, he had left his flashlight at home. After using his cell phone light to briefly examine the area, Pless retreated to the farm house for a light and some tracking reinforcements.

“When we got back down in there, he wasn’t too far from where I had last seen him,” said Pless. “My arrow had gone through the right shoulder and gotten lung.”

With the deer now successfully recovered, Pless and his family members couldn’t get over how huge the buck was, both in terms of its antler dimensions and body size.

“He weighed about 250 or 260 before we gutted him,” said Pless. “And he was bigger (antler wise) than he appeared to be in the trail cam photos I had. He looked big in the pictures, but in person, he was just huge.”

Pless admitted that he was a little befuddled as he went about tagging the animal, getting it field dressed, and loaded up for the ride out.

“I couldn’t really concentrate as I tried to soak it all in,” he laughed. “I even asked someone for a pen five times. As it turns out, I had the pen in my hand all along.”

When you’ve just shot a buck that could be a new archery state record — in the year of the COVID-19 pandemic, no less — that’s understandable.

Now Pless will sit back and enjoy fresh venison on the family dinner table, look forward to the completion of a pedestal mount of the buck that is being done, and eagerly await the final scoring process in January 2021.

Already, others in his small western New York region are pretty excited to hear the story and see the photos of this great buck.

“Yeah, my brother told me that this thing would go viral,” said Pless. “And I guess it has, because I’ve even had people approach me when I’ve been out and about. One was the other day in the parking lot of a gas station. The guy looked at me and said ‘Hey, is that you?’ And I said, ‘What do you mean?’ And then he said, ‘Are you the guy who shot that big deer?’ as he pulled his phone out and showed me a photo of me and my deer. And I said ‘Yeah, that’s me, I’m the guy!’”

In the meantime, as Pless enjoys his brush with local fame, he’s also filled with gratitude as the season of Thanksgiving approaches. First, for his wife and her daily work from home, along with her also trying to help her husband get into the woods to pursue his outdoors passion.

Next Pless is grateful for a host of friends and family members who have taken an interest in his hobby along with helping to drag the buck out, including Kevin Austin, Scott Pipelis, Jason Pless, and Connor Pless.

And finally, he’s thankful for the memory of one of his primary deer-hunting inspirations, the late grandfather that he never met, Clarence Pless. Years ago, the late hunter was passionate about his own pursuit of New York’s big whitetails, even taking a record-book giant with a shotgun.

“My grandpa Pless used to hunt, but I never got to meet him since he passed away before I was born,” said Phillip. “My grandpa was a good deer hunter, and last week, my uncle Glenn gave me some of my grandfather’s stuff because he thought I might like to have it. It included a picture of my grandfather at deer camp with several others.”

In that deer camp photo taken near Greenwood, N.Y., the black and white image shows several proud hunters along with several good bucks hanging from the camp’s sagging meat pole. And the biggest belonged to Clarence, who was also 43 at the time — a huge typical whitetail placing high up in the New York State Big Buck Club.

He’s heard the stories of his grandfather’s love of deer hunting from his dad Bruce, his uncle Glenn, and others — so much so that he felt his grandpa’s presence during his recent hunt for a record book giant.

“You know, I don’t honestly know how to feel about all of this, I guess it really hasn’t all sunk in yet,” said Pless. “But it’s been really exciting, and I’ve been telling others that I think my grandfather was either sitting beside me or was up above watching over me when I shot this deer. He shot his big buck back in 1942 at the age of 43 and I shot mine at 43 — my birthday was just the other day.”

Proving that even in a time of unprecedented health crisis and uncertainty, many of the things that have made our country great still remain, things like hope, family, love, and a desire to get outside to see and experience the great outdoors.

Pless certainly understands, especially this year, a time when the coronavirus has ravaged his home state.

“I know it’s been bad here,” said Pless. “But I don’t know anybody who has gotten it and suffered from it — at least no one in my family, thank the Lord.”

Whatever else people remember the year 2020 for, Pless will always remember it for something wonderful and grand every time he looks in the antlered direction of a certain big buck he dreamed of tagging for several years. In the end, it was a deer that lived up to the hype, in the passionate bowhunter’s mind at least.

“It is the buck of a lifetime,” agreed Pless.

In a year that will never be forgotten. May all of us as hunters be so blessed in the fall of 2020 as we head to the woods with the hope for a big buck, good health, and the love of family and friends tucked away in our back pocket.

Need coyote removal in your hometown? We service over 500 USA locations! Click here to hire us in your town and check prices – updated for year 2020.

How To Trap A Coyote Coyotes are an amazing successful species that is to be found across the majority of North America, and they have adapted particularly well to living alongside people. They can cause a problem when they come into conflict with domestic pets such as dogs, and have been known to attack livestock and other domesticated animals such as chickens and ducks. Coyotes can also prove to be difficult to deter when they find a good location for scavenging through garbage and other refuse, which is why many people will turn to trapping to solve the problem.

What Traps Can Be Used To Catch A Coyote? There are a number of different live traps that can be used to catch a coyote, although the problem with dealing with the coyote after it has been captured is that it will often have to be euthanized. The most typical type of trap will be one that will take a firm grip of the paw of the coyote and will not be able to be removed until the trapper comes to loosen it. This can be problematic because dealing with a live coyote isn’t necessarily something that a novice trapper should want to do. Another option would be a cage trap, but this will often have a much lower success rate than the grip trap mentioned above. This is because the coyote will naturally be wary of a metal cage and won’t be particularly keen to go inside. Positioning and baiting of a cage trap is vital if it is to successfully trap a coyote. The alternative when trapping a coyote is to use a lethal trap. The most popular trap of this kind is a simply snare, although there are a wide range of commercially produced products and homemade solutions that are also available. The snare works by looping a cord around the coyote’s neck and choking the animal, and because a coyote will naturally struggle and pull away this will happen very quickly. Locating And Baiting A Coyote Trap The first question to deal with when trying to catch a coyote is where to place the trap. Snares and grip traps are quite small so will not need as much space as a cage trap. The best traps will be those that naturally lie in the paths that the coyote uses regularly, which can often be identified near fences or field boundaries by looking for tracks or coyote hair. Coyotes will prefer to crawl under a fence even though they can jump over quite high fences, so these are particularly good spots to locate the trap. In terms of the bait for a coyote, meat is usually the best option as it will often attract the coyote from a distance away. It is important in these instances to make sure that the trap is not in an area where it is likely to attract domestic animals, otherwise you may well end up with a traumatized dog if you’re using a live trap. Handling And Removing Coyotes The majority of states will have specific regulations about dealing with pests such as coyotes, and these can vary in different parts of the country. Some places will insist the animal is euthanized, while others will have specific locations the coyote can be taken to. For those who are handling a coyote, wearing thick clothing and protective gloves is an absolute minimum, and keeping handling to a minimum is vital. Coyotes are known to carry rabies and many other parasites and diseases, some of which are transmitted by bites and others can simply be transmitted by contact. Anyone who is nervous or unsure about handling a coyote should bring in a wildlife control expert rather than taking any risks with the animal. For more information about how to trap coyotes, go back to my main coyote removal page or read the about coyotes page.

Winter is here and we’ve got crappie on the brain. Whether you are targeting slab crappie the size of dinner plates or just looking to get some tasty fillets, gearing up with a few top lures is essential.

Crappie are not alway easy to catch but you don’t need a million and one lures to get the job done. Assembling a few of the best crappie lures is all it takes to hook more and bigger fish through the ice every time.

Looking to put together the ultimate crappie ice fishing tackle box? Well, you’ve come to the right place.

On this list, you’ll find 11 unbeatable crappie lures that have been proven choices among experienced ice anglers for years. Take a look at the selection below to see what you’ve been missing.

1. Demon Jig

Custom Jigs and Spins Demon Jig has a long, time-tested history of success on the ice. Take a peek in any diehard crappie angler’s arsenal and you’ll see one of these classic lures.

We put the Demon Jig at the top of this list because it may be the only lure you need to catch crappie all winter long. Its beetle shape profile and vertical hook presentation makes it ideal for delicate bait presentations that crappie often crave. And the Demon Jig’s powers don’t stop there. Choose from several tantalizing glow colors and a range of sizes that will make it your go-to bait on the ice.

How to ice fish with a Demon Jig

Demon Jigs excel at targeting early ice crappie that suspend over shallow weed beds. However, you can scale up in size to target crappie all season long at any depth. These tiny jigs require a delicate delivery with light 2-4 pound test line. We even like to add a small split shot 12 inches above the jig. This puts tension on the rod tip to help transmit bites better.

As a vertical hanging jig, it pairs well with live bait. Use a couple maggots or a juicy wax worm to tip a size 8 or 10 Demon for a finesse approach. Short, small hops just above suspended crappie drives them wild.

When live minnows are the ticket for a tough bite, switch to a size 4 or 6. Hook a minnow how you see fit and drop it down. This is a great option for a deadstick rod.

2. Acme Tungsten Sling Blade Jig

We thought it would be nice to include a newcomer to the crappie ice fishing scene. It may be new, but it is fast earning its place in the ranks as a killer crappie bait.

The Sling Blade gets its name from a unique pivoting hook that imparts a vertical swing to any plastic or live bait on the hook. When you need to show finicky fish something fresh, grab an Acme Sling Blade. Sizes and colors for any situation are available.

How to ice fish with an Acme Tungsten Sling Blade Jig

As with any horizontal tungsten jig, tip the hook with your favorite plastic or bait. For most of ice season, a size 3 jig is fine but step up to size 5 when crappie are aggressive and you need to get back down fast.

Use a quick, consistent jigging motion to get that hook swinging. Soft plastics develop a special action on the Sling Blade that you can’t get on any other tungsten jig.

Some anglers think the swinging hook interferes with good hook sets but we find the opposite to be true. Almost every crappie gets the hook right in the top of their mouth.

3. VMC Tungsten Probe Jig

Without question, the VMC Probe Jig is a prerequisite for any ice angler wanting a universal crappie lure. The TriggerX plastic has a profile that mimics a diverse range of natural forage found in most crappie waters.

Coupled with a 1/16 or 1/32 ounce tungsten jig, this lure tempts all crappie with its seductive tail flicks. Even the slightest quiver of your rod sets the Probe Jig in motion. The 1.25” long plastic is just the right size to grab the attention of hungry fish.

How to ice fish with a VMC Tungsten Probe Jig

Like most soft plastics aimed ate getting crappie to bite under the ice, the VMC Tungsten Probe Jig is best fished with subtlety. Drop down on a school but stop short about 1 to 3 feet above them. Give a few moderate hops then make it stutter on the spot. Interested crappie will rise fast and gulp it down.

We recommend having both the 1/16 and 1/32 ounce sizes in a few different colors. Black chartreuse glow, pink chartreuse glow, natural glow, and chartreuse glow are our favorites. Tipping the Probe with a single maggot is often the best way to seal the deal on finicky fish.

4. Ratso Jig

Custom Jigs and Spins makes another entry on our list with the ever popular Ratso Jig. This horizontal, lead-head jig yields big results on slab-sized crappie. No ice fishing kit is complete until you get a few of these.

Once you drop down through the ice with a Ratso, you’ll see why they earn their reputation year after year. The super soft, flexible body supplies the ultimate in finesse. Shake it on the spot or hold it in place. Either way, that delicate Ratso tail will mesmerize even the most clever panfish.

How to ice fish with a Custom Jigs and Spins Ratso Jig

The Ratso is ideal for shallow water applications. That’s why this is the first jig we tie on our line for early ice panfish. Choose a 1/32 or 1/64 ounce jig in chartreuse, orange sherbet or any glow color you like.

No need to tip this lure with bait. Just bounce it on the spot and that is all the convincing crappie need.

5. Lindy Little Nipper Feather Jig

Sometimes it takes a more natural approach to yank a stubborn crappie through the ice. Enter the Lindy Little Nipper Feather Jig. This supremely simple jig gives all the right action using nothing but a feather.

Each barb on the feather jig moves with bewitching gentleness that not even modern soft plastics can match. Each lead jig has a contrasting feather hand tied and glued securely in place. When the bite gets tough, we reach for the Lindy Little Nipper.

How to ice fish with a Lindy Little Nipper Feather Jig

The Little Nipper isn’t necessarily the first lure we tie on for winter crappie but it certainly should be part of every ice angler’s repertoire when all else fails. Both the 1/16 and 1/32 ounces sizes in white and chartreuse are a staple in our box.

It’s hard to fish the Little Nipper Jig wrong but a slow approach highlights the fine action of the feathers. Keep it above suspended crappie where they see it best. This is not the most durable jig but it out lasts most plastics 9 times out of 10.

6. Clam Maki Plastics

Deep in the heart of ice fishing country, Maki is a household term heard in just about every conversation. Clam Maki Plastics aren’t just a recommended bait, they are a requirement for serious anglers chasing big crappie.

Maki Plastics come in all shapes and sizes. From minnow mimics to alien-like squids, all are capable of slaying monster crappie in every lake, pond and river. Each type is expertly designed to imitate some form of aquatic life for an unrivaled “match the hatch” look. Popular Maki include the Maki Jamei, Maki Mino and Maki Polli.

How to ice fish with Clam Maki Plastics

Tungsten jigs are among the best way to serve up Maki Plastics to all panfish. You’ll get the most enticing action using horizontal jig presentations. But don’t limit yourself. Some anglers like to use Maki Plastics to tip spoons or lipless crankbaits for added flare.

We prefer to pair Maki Plastics with 1/16 and 1/32 ounce tungsten jigs. Go with glow colors. Especially, when crappie are holding over deep basins where less light penetrates through ice and water. Use a gentle jigging cadence to make the Maki fingers dance.

7. Little Atom Nuggies

Little Atom Nuggies have all the right curves in all the right places. These soft plastics feature the ingredients needed to sleuth up a full limit of crappie on the ice. An ultra-finesse tail and an egg shaped body match up nicely with small tungsten jigs.

With over a dozen colors and scent impregnated into every Nuggie, this small bait packs a big wallop. When downsizing becomes the name of the game, reach for the Little Atom Nuggies.

How to ice fish with Little Atom Nuggies

There are days on the ice when schooling crappie are right below you but not a single fish wants to bite. That’s when you put on a Little Atom Nuggie. Drop it down on a small tungsten jig and work it with a light touch. The super soft tail wiggles all on its own.

This is not a search bait. The inch long plastic has a tiny profile so it’s best reserved for enticing panfish that you know are nearby.

8. Rapala Ultra Light Rippin’ Rap

You would be hard pressed to find any top lure list that doesn’t have a Rapala lure on it. Then again, Rapala produces some of the finest baits around so it makes sense. Keeping with that trend, the Ultra Light Rippin’ Rap claims a top spot as one of the best lipless crankbaits for tackling slab crappie on the ice.

Rippin’ Raps have a full compliment of vibrating BB rattles, realistic holographic eyes and textured finishes that single out big fish in the school.

How to ice fish with the Rapala Ultra Light Rippin’ Rap

Staying on top of schooling winter crappie is a constant challenge and search baits are a must. The Rippin’ Rap is among the best lures for calling in fish. Jig it aggressively to engage the intense rattles. Let it drop with a slow flutter followed by a short pause.

Once you mark fish on the flasher, tone your action down and keep it above the fish. With subtle twitches, raise it up as fish rise to strike. Color choice depends on water clarity but pearl grey shiner and glow never fail.

9. Salmo Chubby Darter

Salmo hit a home run with the Chubby Darter. For ice anglers there is no better alternative to live bait. The plump minnow profile and potent action entice strikes when the bite gets tough.

The Chubby Darter is a vertical wobbler with no equal. Its high density foam body combines a slow sink rate with wobbling maneuvers that drive crappie wild. You’ll find this lure in two sizes and nearly a dozen life-like colors.

How to ice fish with the Salmo Chubby Darter

When ice fishing for crappie, go with the smaller 1/16 ounce size 3 Salmo Chubby Darter. As far as color choice, stick with what works where you typically fish. We like the gold yellow perch and silver red orange combinations.

Start out jigging with quick rising snaps to get the Chubby Darter wobbling. The intensity of the wobble will send this lure far outside the area of your hole. Don’t be surprised if it disappears momentarily from your flasher screen. Now, let it drop with a controlled fall. Most crappie come in for the kill as it sinks so watch for sudden slack in the line.

10. Kastmaster Spoons

No tackle box is complete without the addition of a Kastmaster Spoon. That’s why most serious ice anglers have a few on hand. The unique beveled cuts and fast sinking design lets you drop down quickly with a captivating flutter.

No spoon is better for sharp shooting crappie holding tight to structure or in deep water. With nearly limitless color and size options, the Kastmaster is one of the most versatile spoons on the ice.

How to ice fish with a Kastmaster Spoon

Kastmasters don’t get the love they deserve from ice anglers looking to take advantage of hot crappie bites. This is the ultimate spoon for picking off eater crappie without spooking the school.

Start with 1/12 ounce Kastmasters and drop them down just above marked fish. Pound it on the spot with aggressive 6 inch lifts of the rod tip to get the best jittering flash and vibration from the lure. Once fish start rising to the bait, give it a quivering lift and get them to chase. To call in fish from a distance, try a Kastmaster Rattlemaster. Tip these spoons with waxies or maggots as well.

11. Swedish Pimple Spoons

It takes true greatness to earn the mythical status Swedish Pimples hold among ice anglers. Decades of proven fish catching power means that stepping on the ice without one is ill-advised.

Great care was taken in the Swedish Pimple design to make it the best spoon under the ice. It’s delicate flutter when jigged and the classic red “flipper” keep crappie coming back for more season after season.

How to ice fish with a Swedish Pimple Spoon

The Swedish Pimple shines brightest as a finesse spoon. We opt for the small 1/10 ounce size for fussy crappie and the 1/5 ounce size when fish are deep. Keep a variety of colors on hand to accommodate different water conditions but chartreuse and yellow prism colors as well as the “Ice” lineup are our favorites.

Jig the Pimple as you would any other spoon. To really engage the mouth watering action of the flipper produce rapid twitches with your rod. Minute movements are all it takes to close the deal on curious crappie. Also, don’t forget to tip Swedish Pimples with bait.

Ice fishing for crappie

Now that you know which ice fishing lures are the best for crappie, let’s take a look at when and where to put them to use.

Finding crappie under the ice

Crappie seldom pick a spot and stay put all year long. They move from location to location to meet their basic needs as the season changes.

• Early ice crappie tend to hold along the edges of shallow weed beds with healthy vegetation. Food is prolific and crappie will school up in the 7 to 12 foot zone on many lakes.

• As winter progresses, you’ll often find dispersed schools of crappie suspended over deep basins. Find them anywhere from 20 to 40 feet deep, sometimes over the deepest part of the basin.

• Once late winter arrives, crappie push to the edges of the basin adjacent to weedy flats. These weedy flats are usually the same areas crappie stage in for the spring spawn.

Tactics to catch more crappie

Ice fishing for crappie is not always a sure bet. Increasing the odds that you go home successful takes more than just luck. Put the odds in your favor with a few tips the pros always follow.

• Fish efficiently: Pre-scout your lakes to eliminate unproductive water. By keying in on likely habitat and topography, you’ll spend more time in productive areas. Lake maps and GPS are critical components to catching more crappie.

• Fish the prime-time bite: It’s easy to want to pack up and call it a day before the sun hits the horizon. However, some of the hottest crappie fishing on the ice occurs after dark. Check out our complete guide to ice fishing at night to make the most of the night bite.

• Watch the weather: Cold snaps and sudden changes in weather can turn off a crappie bite. Even below the ice, crappie are sensitive to weather. Change your tactics and practice patience when the going gets tough.

• Move, move, move: Crappie are a schooling fish. During ice fishing season, finding crappie means drilling lots of holes. Find likely spots but make sure you move around to track down the school. (Bonus tip – drop your transducer through the ice and swing it slowly from side to side to pick up fish from a wider area)

Don’t forget about live bait

If there is one bait that rarely fails to catch crappie, it’s a small live minnow. Hook a minnow on a plain hook with a split shot 6 inches above it for a killer deadstick technique. You can also try hooking a live minnow on a tungsten jig for a more active jigging approach.

Among the best live baits for crappie are maggots and waxies. As we mentioned before, tipping any lure with a waxy or maggot usually results in more strikes.

A complete crappie ice fishing arsenal should always have a little live bait on hand. Don’t miss our recent article to see the best live bait for ice fishing.

Parting words

Can’t get enough lure recommendations? Stock up this season and take a look at more of the best ice fishing lures for trout, perch and walleye.

This isn’t the best place to be if you’re a vegetarian or aren’t interested in venturing into more unorthodox meat choices for your dinner.

Now that you have been forewarned, let’s get on with discussing what does Porcupine taste like? Yes, this large rodent is a delicacy for many people in the South East Asian communities.

The spiky creature is also eaten in the west, but you’ll hardly ever see it on the menu of famous steak houses or corporate food networks.

Some have even labeled it an ‘acquired taste’ since it tends to overpower the palate if not cooked right.

What is Porcupine?

If you haven’t seen a porcupine in real life and are trying to picture what it looks like, consider browsing a picture or two on the web for reference.

The animal is covered in spikes and looks like a giant guinea pig, minus the fluffy fur.

The mammal is part of the order Rodentia and is classified under two subspecies: Hystricidae and Erethizontidae.

Old-world porcupines or Hystricidae are native to Asia, Europe, and Africa.

Whereas New word porcupines, called Erethizontidae, are found in North America and South America.

Though they are divided into subfamilies, the typical characteristics to identify the beast are the same.

They have quills on their back, snots for noses, and are generally a dark grayish color.

While the latter is mainly arboreal, the other species are terrestrial and easier to hunt.

What Does Porcupine Taste Like?

Often compared to white and red meat, many have debated that porcupine is most similar to pork.

The meat is made up mostly of fat and is extremely rich in flavor.

Some even say there’s a certain sweetness to it.

Most of the food that we consume tastes like the nutrients that its body contains.

And, since porcupines are solely herbivores, it’s no wonder that their meat is succulent, clean, and vibrant.

While slicing into the meat, you’ll notice that the color is darker than usual captive-bred meat.

Wild meat usually has an off-putting muskiness, but while porcupine meat has a strong kick, it also has a subtle sweetness that helps offset the gaminess.

Ironically the name porcupine is a play on words meaning ‘pork of the pines’.

The word is derived from two Latin words, ‘ porcus’ and ‘spina,’ which translates to ‘pig’ and ‘spine.

‘ It could be a coincidence that the animal is named after pigs, or maybe people in the old days found resemblances in the look or taste.

Whatever the reason, most will agree with the similarity in flavor.

In the early days, the meat of this porky roach was compared to very strong-smelling cheese.

American Naturalist William Long even went so far as the say it was vile.

However, in recent years with many people trying to find healthier ways of consuming red meat, this exotic ingredient is now making the rounds in the local market.

How to Cook and Serve Porcupine?

Let’s first clarify the big question of how to prepare the meat for consumption.

Seeing as how the body is primarily covered in spikes or quills, it can take a lot of work to dress the meat for cooking.

You either have to skin the carcass or burn the skin and quills off.

The other methods of manually removing the spikes may be time-consuming and challenging to accomplish.

Great tutorials show you how to complete any of the steps mentioned above.

Once you’ve completed the demanding task of getting the meat ready to cook, it’s pretty easy to prepare.

Many people will separate the skin and Subcutaneous fat and roast it or grill it directly over an open fire.

Other methods of cooking require a bit more preparation time.

You can prepare porcupine stews if you have all the right accessories to flavor the pungent meat.

Or, you can coat them in batter and cracker crumbs and enjoy the deep-fried meat.

However, the most common cooking method would be to leave the skin on and roast it whole, just like how you would prepare a Lechon.

Adding this red meat to your diet can actually do you good because of its high protein content and other nutrients.

Conclusion

As wild game makes a comeback into our kitchens, the porcupine can be a great way to start your culinary experience with exotic meats.

They’re straightforward to cook and have been regularly consumed by people in the past.

It also pairs well with solid wines due to its rich aroma and taste.

The meat from this spiny animal is also highly coveted for all its health benefits.

So much so that it is a staple food item for indigenous people in South East Asia.

So, the next time you’re out browsing for something eclectic and different and see some fresh porcupine meat for sale, you should grab some for yourself.

About The Author