Man, that’s a big pile of buck crap right there.

I’ve heard it a dozen times. You’ve heard it too, or even said it. We all have. But the deer biologists in goggles and gloves who study deer poop for a living (and other, more glamorous things) say it’s actually pretty difficult to distinguish buck and doe droppings.

While the myth of the buck turd is mostly false (more on that momentarily), there are still plenty of things we can learn from deer scat.

1. Fawns poop when does tell them to.

Since a major part of fawn survival hinges on scent reduction, they don’t poop where does hide them. Does will take fawns to neutral areas – well away from daytime hideouts – and let them nurse and poop all at once. Fawns can only defecate after their mothers stimulate them while nursing, according to Duane Diefenbach, wildlife ecology professor and leader of the PA Cooperative Fish and Wildlife Research Unit. Weird as it is, does often consume their fawns’ feces, too. This process reduces scent and helps protect the fawn from predators.

2. Adult deer are very regular.

During fall and winter, most whitetails empty their bowels about 10 to 15 times per day. In spring and summer, this frequency spikes, fluctuating between 20 and 30 times. Interestingly, their bowel movements are so predictable that many wildlife agencies often guestimate deer population densities based on the number of poop piles they discover within a designated area. You can do the same: Hunters who take trail camera surveys seriously can use this method to verify population densities.

3. It’s nearly impossible to distinguish between buck and doe poop.

The commonly held belief is that large, tubular excrements belong to bucks, and small, pelleted piles belong to does. But according to Buckmasters, research shows that it’s virtually impossible for hunters to distinguish between buck and doe poop. Both sexes produce both scat shapes. When comparing tubular scat, bucks can have longer stool pieces, but that’s not always true. The bottom line? Unless you see the deer that dropped it, scat shape alone won’t indicate a deer’s sex.

4. Bucks sometimes drop more pellets, though.

Male deer can, however, produce more pellets than female deer. When comparing pelleted scat, a buck drops 70 to 80 per session on average, while does generally produce 50 to 60. Seriously though – what hunter is going to stop and count? If you’re after a mega-giant though, maybe you should bring a latex glove and a No. 2 pencil, and count to 80.

5. Color and moisture suggest how long the scat has been there.

The coloration and moisture level of a pile helps determine the age of deer poop. Droppings that are still dark, shiny and wet are likely less than 12 hours old. If there’s no moisture and droppings look lighter in color, there’s a good chance the scat is at least 24 hours old, if not several days. Droppings become more fibrous over time, and scat that’s cracked, crusty or broken is usually at least a week old.

6. Digging through poo gives clues.

Learn what deer are eating, and when, by examining scat. A forage’s water content will dictate its composition and shape. Mounds of firm, pelleted dung suggests woody browse (buds, leaves, twigs), grain (corn, oats, soybeans) and hard mast (acorns and nuts). Long, singular, squishier poop indicates recent consumption of broadleaf plants, forbs, grasses, and soft mast (apples, peaches, pears, persimmons, plums, etc.).

7. Handle deer droppings with care.

Prions – malformed proteins shed by CWD-positive deer – are commonly found in deer urine, feces and saliva. While it’s currently believed that humans can’t contract this disease, who really wants to become a lab rat? If you’re going digging, carry gloves or use a stick.

8. Concentration indicates high-traffic areas.

The best lesson you can learn from deer poop is that a lot of it indicates a good hunting spot. Hunters who stumble on extensive piles of poop should take note. Often, excessive scat is located near preferred food sources, water sources, and bedding areas. If you find a bedding area that’s full of it, go mobile and get as tight as you dare on that deer.

A 270 rifle is a great choice for hunting game in the mid-sized to large range. It can shoot accurately up to about 500 yards, making it perfect for taking down big game animals like deer or elk. In this blog post, we will take a closer look at the distance that a 270 rifle can shoot and what you need to consider when choosing one for your next hunting trip.

So How Far Can a 270 Shoot?

When shopping for a 270 rifle, it is important to consider the barrel length. The longer the barrel, the greater the distance that the rifle can shoot accurately. A good choice for hunting big game animals is a rifle with a 24-inch barrel.

In addition to choosing the right barrel length, you also need to consider the caliber of the rifle. The 270 Winchester cartridge has a muzzle velocity of 2960 feet per second and can penetrate up to an inch and a half of ballistic gel at 100 yards. This makes it an excellent choice for taking down large game animals.

So, how far can a 270 rifle actually shoot? Depending on the barrel length and caliber of your rifle, you should be able to comfortably take down game animals at distances of up to 500 yards. Make sure to do your research and select the right rifle for your next hunting trip!

Is a 270 good for long range shooting?

The answer to this question is a resounding yes. In fact, many experts believe that the 270 is one of the best long-range rifle calibers available. With its combination of accuracy and power, it can easily take down game at extended distances.

So, how far can a 270 shoot? The answer depends on the specific rifle and load you are using, but most shooters can expect to get good results out to around 500 yards. Of course, with practice and experience you may be able to extend that range even further.

If you’re looking for a great long-range rifle caliber, the 270 should definitely be at the top of your list. It’s accurate, powerful, and versatile enough to handle any situation you might encounter in the field. Give it a try and see for yourself how far a 270 can shoot!

How far will a .270 travel?

The average 270 rifle can shoot up to 500 yards with relative ease. With the right ammunition and a skilled shooter, it’s not unheard of for a 270 to travel up to 600 yards or more. It’s important to remember that these distances are maximums – in most cases, you’ll be able to achieve better results by shooting at closer ranges.

When choosing a rifle chambered in .270, it’s important to consider the game you’ll be hunting and the terrain you’ll be shooting in. Deer may only require shots within 200 yards or so, but elk can often be taken much farther out. Similarly, if you’re hunting in dense forestland, you’ll need to adjust your shot distance accordingly.

Can a 270 take down a deer?

The 270 rifle is a popular choice for deer hunting and it can bring down most animals if you’re using the right bullet. But in order to get the best results, you need to choose your ammunition wisely. The .270 Winchester cartridge has been around since 1925 but even today it remains one of the most used cartridges among hunters all over the world.

This round delivers maximum performance at close ranges due to its high velocity (upwards of 2700 fps). However, when shooting at longer distances – past 500 yards – other factors become important such as trajectory drop rate or wind drift. To find out how far does a 270 shoot, we have compiled some data from our tests which should give you an idea about what this weapon system is capable of.

When using a 150-grain bullet at an elevation of 2500 feet, the 270 has a ballistic coefficient (BC) of .505 and will maintain its velocity up to 850 yards before it starts to drop significantly. With this information in mind, you can confidently take down game at longer ranges; but always remember to factor in environmental conditions such as wind speed and direction.

How much does a 270 drop at 200 yards?

A 270 rifle will drop about 13 inches at 200 yards. This means that you will need to aim higher to hit your target. Depending on the distance between you and your target, you may need to adjust your shot accordingly.

At 300 yards, a 270 rifle will drop about 27 inches. This means that you will need to aim even higher to hit your target. Again, depending on the distance between you and your target, you may need to adjust your shot accordingly.

A 270 rifle is capable of shooting up to 500 yards with proper accuracy. However, it’s important to remember that the further the distance between you and your target, the more difficult it becomes to hit your mark. If you’re unsure of your abilities to shoot accurately at longer distances, it’s best not to attempt it. Instead, focus on targets within closer ranges. With practice and patience, you can become a successful long-distance shooter with a 270 rifle.

What’s a better gun 270 or 30-06?

The 30-06 has a bigger bullet, but the 270 has a faster one. This is also why both are so popular with hunters: they hit harder and penetrate deeper than most other rifle cartridges. Both deliver devastating terminal ballistics at ranges well beyond 300 yards.

What grain 270 bullet is best?

A 270 rifle can shoot a range of different grain bullets. The most popular is the 130-grain bullet, but a shooter may also use a 150-grain or 165-grain bullet. For smaller game, such as deer or antelope, the 130-grain bullet is ideal. Heavier animals, like elk or moose, will require a larger caliber bullet. A hunter should always consult with an experienced gunsmith to select the best grain bullet for his specific hunting situation.

The 130-grain bullet offers a great balance of weight and power, making it the most popular choice for hunters. The extra energy that is put behind this bullet allows it to drop farther than any other 270 bullet with comparable velocity. This makes perfect sense when you consider how much more force there is behind a large caliber rifle compared to a small one. If you’re going after larger game like elk or moose, then go with the heavier grain bullets as they will give your rifle more punch and penetration into those animals’ hides.

If hunting at high altitudes (over 5000 feet), then choose lighter grains such as 90-110 instead because these offer better ballistics over long distances due to wind resistance being lower in elevation. The best choice would be 90-110 grains if you’re going after deer or antelope, and up to 130 grains for larger animals like elk/moose.

The perfect coyote bait pile is a marvelous tool for coyote hunters. Set up correctly, a coyote bait pile will lure in and hold coyotes exactly where you want them, convince them to consume the bait, and give you all the time you need to take your shot.

Coyote bait pile essentials: Bait, location, and time.

Your success baiting coyotes will depend on using the right bait in the right location and patiently waiting for the magic to happen.

Want to know when coyotes are the most active and most likely to show up at your bait pile or respond to your calls? Check out my article.

Looking for a great book on how to call in a coyote? Check out Andrew Lewand’s book below. This book answers the most frequently asked question on the internet… What sounds are working right now? No matter which brand of call you use, the sequences in each chapter with boost your success rate!

The right bait.

Honestly, nothing beats a deer carcass. It’s what coyotes expect to find dead of natural causes (or gunshot wounds) in the woods and fields. Indeed, it’s often discovered split open and mangled alongside the roadway. They consume it regularly and are naturally drawn to the familiar odor of its decay.

There may be other baits, and they may work, but deer meat is the superior choice.

The perfect location.

Simply put, a coyote bait pile tucked just inside a woodline that provides the coyote with a sense of cover but is actually a shooting lane with you on the other end is the perfect location.

We’ll discuss how to set up this location later, but you can get a basic idea from this image.

That’s far enough away to help you beat a coyote’s amazing senses.

All the time it needs.

The last piece of your perfect coyote bait pile is time. Time for the pile to ripen. Time for the pile to be found.

During the days and weeks after you have placed your bait, you will be sorely tested. Doubt will creep in and disturb your resolve. “Did I use enough meat?” “Is the pile too well hidden?”

Make a solemn vow as you walk away from your perfectly baited and placed pile. A vow to never, for any reason, disturb it. It’s a test of faith in yourself and the quality of the work you have done.

Avoid the temptation to commit the only unforgivable sin of baiting coyotes: Spilling fresh human scent on it.

Getting deer for your coyote bait pile.

There are three ways to get deer for your coyote bait pile. Here they are arranged in order of easiest to hardest.

From deer hunters.

If you hunt deer, you know a lot of flesh doesn’t get packed into freezer bags. So this season, let your deer hunting friends know you’d love to take home their scraps.

You can make a suitable sized coyote bait pile from a single butchered deer using the Baitsicle Method discussed later.

Deer processors.

Deer cutters, especially those who butcher your deer, are often more than willing to let you take as much of their waste as you can carry.

Brings some buckets and heavy duty contractor bags with you.

Roadkill.

I hesitate even to mention this method of collecting bait. However, because it is legal in some states, I’ll take the time to layout the easiest way to secure enough carrion from roadkill, but check your local laws and be very damn careful. A bad night could end with you being roadkill.

First of all, you only need one deer to make a coyote bait pile. You do not need 300 pounds, no matter what someone tells you. 50-75 pounds is perfect and will last the whole season.

Secondly, a doe in the back of your truck brings a lot less attention than a buck with a big rack in the back of your vehicle—police attention, that is. The law may be on your side, but you still could get arrested by a suspicious officer and have to spend money defending yourself. A dead doe is a tragedy. A dead eight-pointer is a trophy. Consider yourself warned.

Roadkill tips.

Collecting roadkill is a significant job. You have to drive around sparsely traveled back roads (never attempt recovery on major routes), racking up quite a few miles before you’ll come across anything of value. Once you spot a possible candidate, I suggest you consider a few points before proceeding.

Is it in a safe location for collection after dark? At night, you’ll be able to collect when the traffic flow is at its lowest point. You will also be able to hear vehicles approaching and see their oncoming headlights. Night-time recoveries draw less attention from the general public, too. Think fewer 911 calls. After dark, you’ll have fewer flies to deal with, and you won’t have to drive off a murder of crows. However, a flashlight is required so you can be assured Mr. Bear isn’t already seated at the Roadside Cafe himself.

Is the carcass relatively intact? If the stomach is burst, the deer severely mangled or already badly rotted, take a hard pass on it. Lifting a dead deer into the back of a truck by yourself is a nightmare, to begin with. Don’t add to your impending misery by trying to handle anything dead for too long.

Bring rain gear. Never, ever recover roadkill in anything you’ll want to wear again. There’s just no way to do it without getting bloody and stinky. So bring a rain suit and gloves with you.

A bit of rope will ease (some) of your pain. Without a rope, your best bet is to grab the head, sit on your tailgate, and use your legs to push yourself backward as you lift the deer over the back of the truck. You’ll find another way to get deer for your bait pile next year.

If you have rope, you can tie up the head, stand on your tailgate, and lift and pull the head up and over the end of the truck. When you can grab the legs, you should be able to walk backward and pull the rest of the deer into the truck.

Types of coyote bait piles.

Baitsicles

The baitsicle is my favorite coyote bait pile for four reasons; easy to transport, requires the least amount of baiting material, draws repeated visits, and can be placed in nearly every type of location.

How to make a baitsicle.

You’ll need one five-gallon pail, 10 feet of rope, enough bloody deer scraps to fill 75% of the bucket, a hammer (to break the bucket if the bait sticks to it), and access to water.

Start by placing a few inches of meat on the bottom of the pail. Now, coil at least a foot-long section of rope on top of the flesh and cover the coil with more scraps. Next, slowly add water, making sure the meat holds the rope down. Once your bucket is about half full, you can add the rest of your bait, top off the water, and allow it to freeze.

Pro tip: Bloody is best. The pinker your water, the better. For an example of how bloody; check out these photos of how coyote trappers make their baitsicles.

Correctly done, you should have about 6 feet of leftover rope. You will use this to drag your baitsicle and anchor it in the field.

The baitsicle will weigh over 50 lbs, but frozen, it should be easy to pull over snow and rugged enough to survive being dragged over open terrain.

During each thaw and refreeze, more bait will be exposed for the coyotes to lick and gnaw on, providing each coyote with just enough to encourage repeated visits.

Pro tip: Drag your baitsicle around. You’ll leave a scent trail everywhere you go that leads predators directly to your bait.

Wait, do you live where the eastern coyote roams? Then you need to check out my article on Killing Giants.

Hay bales or compost piles in open fields.

A compost pile in an open area is an insect and rodent luxury apartment. Over time, it will attract more and more predators like foxes and coyotes.

You can use a hay bale to create a min-compost pile for less than $20. So, don’t worry if you don’t own a farm or have access to large amounts of compost.

To begin, I’ll assume you are both reading this before the summer has ended, and you want to make a one-of-a-kind coyote bait pile with live rodents that even squeaks for you.

Your first step is picking up one or more 50 lbs compressed blocks of hay from a local supply store. Make sure you get hay, not straw. Mice and voles (your real coyote bait) love to nest in and eat hay.

Once you have selected a place to set your hay coyote bait pile, chop a hole about half the size of the bale and 6-10 inches deep.

Note: The smell of freshly disturbed earth often draws the attention of foxes and predators, so be prepared to hunt this spot shortly.

Fill the hole with corn and flip the bale over on top of it. Over time, the corn will be found by rodents, who will consume it and use the hay bale for nesting in and also feast on. Their movements, scent, and occasional squeaks will act as a living coyote bait pile that also draws in plenty of foxes.

Compost piles for coyote baiting.

A compost pile that features pine shavings or other bedding materials taken from chicken coops and duck houses will often contain an ungathered egg and uneaten food pellets. This waste material will quickly draw insects and other scavengers. Fox and coyote are never far behind. This type of compost pile is a predator magnet, and therefore, a hazard if kept too close to livestock. I’ve seen predators visit my compost pile several times a week all year long.

Using cages for baiting coyotes.

Dead chickens, squirrels, and other small mammals placed in cages and secured to the site create mini coyote bait piles. Leave them uncovered, and you’ll be surprised how many critters stop by to check out the bait.

Pro tip: Hay bale, compost, and cage coyote bait piles work best in open, mowed fields that make good habitat for rodents.

Want to know what calls coyotes and foxes respond to the most? Is there a magic sequence other hunters use to bag coyotes? Read my article on calls here to find out the best calls.

The best location for a coyote bait pile.

The absolute best place for a coyote bait pile is just inside a woodline.

Set the pile 5-10 yards inside the woods and about 100 yards from your shooting location. You want your bait far enough in to calm the coyotes and give them a sense of cover. However, don’t go too far, as you’ll double or triple the amount of site preparation you’ll need to create a clear shooting lane.

Looking at the bait pile from your shooting stand, you should have just wide enough of a window to see any coyotes when they are within 25 feet from either side of the pile—this is also the perfect range for night shooting using the best thermal scope for new predator hunters.

Set the bait inside the middle of your shooting window and secure it to prevent movement by the coyotes. You can use a sapling but avoid wide tree trunks that could obstruct your view of the target or interfere with the path of your shot.

And don’t worry about ropes, tie-down stakes, or other exposed equipment used to secure the bait—it will lose any scent and be ignored by curious coyotes.

If you can’t secure your bait to an object, consider using an earth anchor.

Pro tip: Deerskins serve multiple purposes, so save them and wrap your pile in them. The skins help convince the coyotes, and the frozen flesh helps protect the bait pile.

Add a camera to your coyote bait pile.

A cellular game camera will let you know when your pile is being visited and, more importantly, by whom. While it can be used as a real-time burglar alarm or help you pattern the visits being made, it does have a few easily fixable drawbacks.

1. It can spook coyotes. Even the faintest glow of the shutter’s IR light or softest click can make a coyote bolt. Most won’t go more than a few yards away before returning, but if it happens every time they near the pile, it could drive them off permanently. The fix here? Set the timer to allow no more than one photo every 5 minutes.
2. The cold can sap cheap batteries. It cant be said too often; set your pile and never go back to it except to pick up a dead coyote. Use high-quality lithium batteries where appropriate.
3. Squirrels, birds, and even mice will set off the camera too. You usually get a package deal with cellular cameras. These deals can give you 100 to 200 free photos a month. If you are not careful, they will all be daytime photos of crows and nighttime images of mice racing around your set. To avoid this, reduce the camera’s sensitivity. Going from high sensitivity to medium setting should help, but even at the lowest setting will pick up coyotes and foxes.
4. Your camera will need as clear and unobstructed shot. Set it at the right height and make sure any branches, brush, or twigs are cleared out of the way. Also, make sure to remove anything the wind may move around—a single twig can send many false alarms to your phone.

Where is the absolute best place to shoot a coyote? Don’t know? Then read this article on where to place your round to put a coyote down.

Scatter free meals to add confidence when coyote baiting.

No matter which coyote bait pile method you use, scattering some morsels around the pile will help make the coyote feel more confident when reaching the actual pile.

Deer scraps are fine, but confidence strips that include “fishy” treats, like shrimp, add a tempting scent that has often set my bait piles on fire, luring predators in much faster than deer-only sets. If you are afraid that coyotes won’t come to your bait pile because they’ve been shot at them before, read my, The Truth About Educated Coyotes article.

If your coyote bait will sitting in an area with heavy snow, I recommend using a coyote lure you can smear on tree limbs and other items that won’t get buried under the snow and ice.

Dunlap’s Hellfire Long Call Smear is skunk in a bottle. It works every season for me, even though I’ve never even seen a skunk where I hunt. Great stuff!

Now, stay away from you coyote bait pile.

Once your bait and camera are set, don’t go near it again, except to recover a downed animal. Let it quietly sit for as long as it takes to start attracting coyotes. Look, it may be two weeks before you see activity, but worrying you haven’t set the pile upright and trying to rework it or add bait to it will only splash new doses of your scent all over the place. Just be patient. If there are coyotes around, they will find your pile.

There is only one other reason to get anywhere near your coyote bait pile, heavy snow. While the stench always finds a way to work itself up and out of even the heaviest snowfalls, you can reduce the time it takes for coyotes to find it.

It’s time for a short snowmobile ride! From the road closest to your pile, start near one end of the field and use your snowmobile to create a nice curvy path. Then, hug the edge of the woodline and cut back to the road at the opposite end of the field. Plowed roads get heavy predator travel in rural areas. But, if they find an easy way to scout inside a field quickly, they will take it.

If you don’t have a sled, snowshoes will work just as well, especially after the deer have helped break the trail even more for you.

Interested in a quick course on how to track a wounded coyote? Read this article on how to track a wounded predator.

Who is visiting your coyote bail pile?

There are two types of coyotes you’ll catch visiting your bait pile; residents and transients.

Residents consider the location your placed your bait pile in to be their territory. They’ll visit it more than once. They will make their approach less cautiously. Their visits will last longer, they’ll eat more, and they will stay closer to the pile while resting.

Transients are coyotes in search of their territory. Transients get treated and act like trespassers. They will be very cautious during each approach. Their heads will be on swivels, and they will be quick to grab a bite and retreat a pace before consuming what they caught. The single click of a game camera can drive them away, perhaps for good.

If you set the pile up to remove unwanted local coyotes, there’s no need to worry you will attract coyotes from other more distant areas.

https://www.mossyoak.com/our-obsession/blogs/deer/deer-carcass-disposal-how-why-and-why-not

Calling near a coyote bait pile can increase your success.

Calling near your coyote bait pile is a great idea. Even if your stand is empty, there’s a good chance you’ll catch a late-arriving coyote. Coyotes that finally show up to investigate the source of your calls will poke around and possibly discover your bait pile.

If you are targeting hungry coyotes, check out https://thepredatorhunter.com/how-to-master-the-best-closed-reed-coyote-call/.

You can also call near bait that has already been found and partially consumed. A simple coyote vocalization may bring a resident coyote back to defend its food source in these situations.

A bit of effort, but nothing beats a perfect coyote bait pile.

A perfect coyote bait pile takes some scouting, planning, and waiting-but it yields unbelievable results. So start your planning today, and reap your harvest during the next coyote hunting season.

Three days without water is the general rule of thumb for how long we can live without it. Given its importance, we should be well versed in the many methods for finding water in the wild.

The most obvious source is a body of water such as a river or lake. But what about another resource that is all around us? I am talking about trees.

Trees can contain a huge amount of water in the form of sap. This sap contains vitamins, minerals, sugar but is primarily made up of water. Since the tree is like one big filter, this sap is perfectly fine to drink. But the question then becomes how to get at it. For that, you will need a tree spile. To be fair, you do not have to carry a modern spile to tap a tree but it sure makes it easier.

What is a Tree Spile?

Chances are you may have seen one of these without even knowing it. Either in person or through TV I bet you have seen maple syrup collected from a tree.

To do this a hole is drilled in the tree, a spile is tapped in and a bucket is hung from the spile. A spile is simply a hollow metal tube that directs the sap into a bucket, rather than letting it run down the bark.

Choosing A Spile

There are a few different options when it comes to choosing this tool. There are different styles that can make the tapping process a bit easier. Some have an end that comes more to a point while others are more rounded. But I am more concerned about the materials they are made from.

Generally, they are made from aluminum, stainless steel, and plastic. Aluminum and plastics options are certainly going to be lighter in weight and cheaper to buy. I believe I even have seen some of the plastic spiles for under a dollar.

This is my personal opinion but I lean towards the stainless steel spiles. They are more expensive but they are less prone to breaking or bending like aluminum or plastic options. I am also not concerned with weight as even a stainless steel spile is quite light and I will only be carrying one. Again that is just my preference and I’m sure the other people have had just as much success with the other types.

Before Using a Spile

First, not all trees can or should be tapped. I am only familiar with tapping maples and birches but I do know there are other trees that can be tapped. If you are interested in trying this process I would recommend that you learn what trees can be tapped and if they are in your area.

Secondly, this method is somewhat seasonal as it works best in late winter to spring. This is when the tree is experiencing very cold nights, below freezing, and then above freezing daytime temperatures.

This temperature difference causes a higher sap flow or pressure within the tree. When a hole is created in the tree, the sap has a place to escape. When this is timed correctly, a gallon or more of sap can be collected in just a few hours.

How To Use A Tree Spile

Once a tree is selected, using a spile is quite easy. It is my recommendation that all of the tools and collection container be ready to go beforehand so as not to waste any sap. Here is a list of the tools you will need.

• Drill bit, knife, or some sort of spike for creating the hole in the side of the tree.
• Spile
• Collection container: This could be a cup, water bottle or anything that will catch and hold the sap
• Cordage: While cordage is not required it may be helpful to hold the collection container in place.
• Impact tool: This can be the butt of a knife, a hammer, or a sturdy branch but you will need something to tap the spile into the tree.

When all of these tools are collected and laid out in front of you, go ahead and follow the steps below.

Step One

Remove a small section of the bark being careful to remove just enough for the spile. Considering that the tree is giving you something it is always good to keep conservation in mind. Only take what you need in order to keep the tree as healthy as possible

Step Two

A hole needs to be drilled for the spile to be tapped into. Ideally, this would be done with a drill which most people do not carry in a pack, some do, but most do not. The tip of a knife will work or a spiked tomahawk.

Step Three

Clean out some of the loose debris from the hole and insert the spile angling the front end slightly downward. The spile does not need to be at an extreme angle, and in fact, it shouldn’t be. It only needs to provide enough of a slope that the sap will run down it. Now, use the butt of a knife handle or a piece of wood and tap the spile firmly into the hole.

The spile does not need to be hammered in but it should rest firmly enough in the hole that it can support the weight of a collection container.

Step Four

Hang a collection container from the spile or place it on the ground beneath it. If it is on the ground just make sure it will not tip over.

Step Five

After you are done tapping a tree it is best to pack the hole with clay or dirt. This will help prevent that area from becoming infected.

Video

Check out this great video demonstrating how to use a tree spile:

Final Words

Unless the sap is being stored in very cold conditions it should be consumed right away, within the first day or two at most, otherwise it can go “bad.”

But with one little tool and five easy steps, you now know how to collect water from a tree. Thanks for reading.

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The best hiking gloves are the ones you reach for over and over again, because they work well to keep your hands warm and dry.

That’s why I recommend that you have at least 3 types of gloves in your hiking gear locker.

Let’s tackle them one at a time, with an overview of hiking gloves by function.

Best hiking gloves for cold weather

Cold weather hiking the best hiking gloves to guard against hypothermia.

Scary fact:

One of the most neglected areas on a hiker’s body in cold weather are your hands.

• We all think about protective hats and jackets and pants, but please don’t overlook the importance of keeping your hands warm at all times.

If your fingers are numb, you aren’t going to have the dexterity to adjust your clothing, take the cap off your water bottle, or unfold the map that tells you when an important trail junction is coming up.

And that leads to making mistakes on the trail that can endanger your life, or at least your enjoyment of a hike.

So keep your digits toasty warm!

I have a repertoire of winter hiking gloves, and switch them out as needed.

The least cumbersome pair are fingerless gloves, like these.

• My fingers are free to manipulate, grasp and tug on my hiking poles, boot laces, and zippers, but the rest of my hands and wrists stay warm.
• Doesn’t sound like a big deal? It will be when an icy cold wind is blowing, or it begins to rain.
• And they convert easily to mittens when I need a bit of extra warmth around my fingers.

Fleece hand protectionon a hike

I like lightweight fleece gloves for situations when I know I’d rather not use mittens, like the photo above.

• They ride along in the bottom of my pack year round, because cold hands are dangerous for extended periods of time.
• Even a nice summer day can turn nasty at higher elevations. Always put on an extra layer once you top out somewhere the wind can reach you (especially important if you’re sweaty from the exertion of uphill hiking).

Note that these glove options are not weatherproof, so I recommend them only for dry cold conditions.

If you want bombproof gloves with all the features, that also allow you to interface with your phone or GPS screen, expect to pay a bit more.

But revel in the warm, dry hands you’ll have!

Here is a full array of your options.

• Remember to sort them by weight, weather proofness, and features, as outlined above.

Natural fiber options

Possum down might not be a familiar glove material to you, unless you reside in New Zealand.

Read the Hiking For Her review of Possumdown hiking gloves here.

Another natural choice: alpaca wool gloves, like these.

Best hiking gloves for cool windy conditions

In the spring and fall, I want to stay warm but don’t want extra bulk in my pack or on my hands.

These are the gloves I pull out of my pack when I begin to feel chilled.

• I know that my core temperature is dropping a bit, and I pay attention by warming up my hands.
• I also pull on a hat if I’m not already wearing one.
• More cool weather hiking tips here

Sometimes I know that I’ll be cold part way through the hike, because I’ve consulted my topographical map and recognize a ridge or other windy land feature coming up soon.

So these gloves are kept within easy reach, in my jacket pocket or a top pocket of my backpack where my hiking partner can easily reach them for me.

That way, I don’t need to lose body heat by stopping, removing my pack (there goes all of that delicious warmth trapped against my back!), and digging through gear.

I recommend that you do the same: Keep these gloves handy (oooh, a hiking glove pun).

Why not wearhiking mittens?

I am not a fan of wearing mittens on the hiking trail, with one exception.

Mittens encase my hands in a non-functional configuration, making it hard to grip my poles or do much of anything.

The only exception I make is when I face really cold conditions and I want all of my fingers smushed together to share warmth.

• I make sure all gear adjustments have been made before I slip on mittens like these.
• Sometimes I need my trail buddy to help me yank on the second one! And I return the favor.
• Sometimes I wear these mittens in my sleeping bag if I’m having a hard time falling asleep. For some reason, warm hands relax my entire body.
• They’re also nice cushioning for sitting on hard cold rocks!

I appreciate the safety loops on these mittens, because I can dangle them above snow or mud from my poles or pack.

Best hiking glovesfor sun protection

I never used to believe in wearing gloves to block UV rays on cloudless hikes…

until I began to require skin biopsies every year for the pigmented spots on my face and hands.

Now I’m a believer in wearing lightweight, light colored wicking fingerless gloves on my summer hiking adventures.

Ever notice how sunscreen tends to wear off?

• How many times do you reapply it to your hands and fingers?
• Yeah, not so much for me, either.

This brand is rock solid in the gear industry.

If you’d prefer full sun gloves, they’ve literally gotcha covered! These are handy when you’re hiking over reflective snow fields, to prevent sunburn.

Bonus: Wearing these gloves prevents “age” spots, too.

If you want to go whole hog into UV protective clothing, read this.

A few more tips for buying the best hiking gloves

If you’re just starting out hiking in cooler conditions, and won’t be staying outdoors overnight, you can get away with bargain brands of hiking gloves.

But expect flimsy materials, poorly sewn seams, and less than ideal insulation.

If you’re heading into uncertain weather conditions, or plan to spend at least one night camping in cool/cold/unpredictable temperatures, you absolutely must pay attention to your hands.

Regardless of which brands and styles you go with, be sure your best hiking gloves have:

• women’s sizing, with a snug but not binding fit
• a cinching system for creating an airtight seal for really cold conditions
• appropriate thickness to keep you from over heating or freezing (which is why I have several styles)
• durable synthetic material on the palms if gripping poles or camera gear is important
• non-chafing seams
• wrist straps to prevent loss

Gloves = hiking love

If you are hiking with newbies, children, or a group of folks you don’t know well, bring along a second pair of gloves to hand over when any of them begin to shiver.

Demonstrate without a word that the best hiking gloves are a vital component of your anti-hypothermia strategy.

Be prepared for grateful words and a big smile.

Notice the word LOVE in there?

• Glove love is where it’s at, y’all.

Ready to tackle warm feet on a hike? I thought you might be up for it 😉

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I get emails all the time about what I wear on the trail.

That’s why I provide these affiliate links to you: the best gear is instantly available for your consideration, and the gear company sends a few pennies per dollar to Hiking For Her’s website with no added cost to you when you purchase.

Everyone ends up a winner that way: great gear for you, strong gear companies, and more free hiking tips for everyone.

Yeehaw!

And thanks very much for your support. It’s warmly and sincerely appreciated.

Always know your target before you pull the trigger. This is one of the golden rules of hunting. It’s not enough to just know that you’re shooting at a turkey. Just as in duck hunting you must know the species (and sometimes the sex). In deer hunting, you must be able to tell a buck from a doe. Well in turkey hunting, you must know the difference between a turkey hen vs a tom turkey.

A hen is a female turkey. They lay eggs and commonly make sounds known as clucks, yelps, cuts, kee-kees, and purrs.

A male turkey is known as a tom. Toms will make sounds known as gobbling, spitting, drumming, and yelping.

A juvenile tom is called a jake. For more information on jakes including whether you should shoot them or not, read our full article on the subject.

In most states, the law requires a harvest of only tom turkeys during the spring season. Some states allow you to shoot bearded hens. During fall seasons, there are states that allow both sexes to be harvested while others still only allow toms to be harvested.

As you can see, it is very important to be able to tell a tom from a hen. So let’s get into the differences.

Beard

Toms generally have a beard protruding from their chest. In a mature tom, these beards are usually seven inches or longer in length. Jakes will have shorter beards. Some toms have multiple beards.

Beards are black and are made of feather-like bristles.

The beard is usually easy to pick up when hunting so it is a key identifier. However, you can’t totally rely on the beard when identifying a turkey hen vs. a tom.

You see, some hens have beards. According to Julie Craven at BirdWatching, 5-10 percent of all hen turkeys have beards. And if that’s not confusing enough, some toms suffer from “beard rot” leaving them with a thin beard or even no beard at all. Beard rot results from vitamin deficiency in a turkey.

So a beard is a good guideline, but not a hard rule. What else can we use to tell a hen from a tom?

Spurs

For the most part, only toms and jakes grow spurs or “hooks”. In fact, spurs provide a rough estimate of the age of the tom. The theory is that the longer the spur, the older the turkey. The jake has a short, rounded spur while a three-year-old bird can have spurs longer than one inch in length.

A spur is a claw-like feather on the backside of the leg. They can be very sharp. Toms use the spurs to fight other gobblers and establish dominance. Spurs can vary in color from black to pink.

Unfortunately, spurs wear down, break, and even fall off. It can also be difficult to see the spurs of a tom in the field. So let’s move on to another factor we can use to differentiate a hen from a tom.

Size

Toms are bigger than hens. They typically run 11 to 24 pounds. A hen weighs from 5 to 12 pounds. The heaviest tom on record is 37.6 pounds.

Toms are also usually a bit longer than hens. The largest toms can be over four feet in length while the longest hens are usually just over three feet in length.

Size differences can be useful for determining sex if you have a mature tom and a hen. If you are seeing them separately in the field, it can be tough to determine gender based on size. Keep in mind that jakes and larger hens can be similar in size as well.

Size is another tool in our toolbox, but what other clues can we use?

Head

The head is a great way to differentiate a tom from a hen as you will likely be focused on the head.

A tom’s head will be a combination of red, white, and blue. It is generally featherless. Toms also have a longer snood than a hen. The snood is the fleshy protuberance above the bill. It can contract, expand, and change colors based on the turkey’s mood.

The hen’s head is much less flashy than the tom’s. It is a blue-ish gray color. As mentioned above, the snood will be much shorter than a tom’s. Hen’s have small feathers on their heads.

The head is not the only coloring difference between a hen vs a tom turkey. Let’s look at the rest of their feathers.

Plumage

As you might have guessed, tom turkeys have flashier feathering than the hen like most other avian species.

The hen’s overall feathering is a browner tint than the darker, blacker tom’s. The tips of the feathers on a hen are more of a buff color. The tom turkey has dark, black color tips.

Let’s talk about how to identify the gender of a bird when tracking turkeys.

Tracks

As you might assume, the bigger tom has a bigger track than the smaller hen. If you find a track that is longer than four inches, it is probably a tom. Hen turkey tracks will usually be about three and a half inches in length.

Finally, there is another sign a turkey leaves behind.

Droppings

Yep, you can tell the sex of a turkey by its excrement. Toms leave a long, sometimes j-shaped dropping. These droppings are generally about two inches in length.

Tom droppings are easily distinguished from the more clumped together hen excrement.

Turkey Hen vs Tom: Final Thoughts

Determining the sex of a turkey is not easy when you are first getting started. As you become more experienced, you will learn to recognize toms and hens faster.

A good rule of thumb is to only shoot a bird after you have identified two distinguishing traits. For instance, if you see red on the head and a beard on the breast, you can feel confident that you are shooting a legal tom.

The exception to this rule would be if you are hunting in a state that allows you to shoot any bearded turkey, and you are fine taking a hen.

Hopefully, this article has made you feel a bit more comfortable in recognizing your game this hunting season. Bookmark this page and look at the pictures periodically to refresh yourself on the signs of a turkey hen vs a tom.

If you enjoyed this article, you may also like to read about the sounds a hen turkey makes.

Sharks have a fearsome reputation as deadly predators but attacks on humans are rare. Sharks don’t actively seek out humans as prey and prefer to hunt fish or seals.

This doesn’t mean they pose no risk and danger can arise, especially during the summer months, when more people swim in the sea. For this reason, a handful of attacks and fatalities occur every year. Attacks are usually a case of mistaken identity, as sharks may bite a human believing them to be their usual prey. Many sharks let go once they realize their mistake, but their very sharp teeth can cause life-threatening injuries.

In 2022, there have been 51 shark attacks in the U.S., mostly in Florida. Only one, in Hawaii, was fatal.

The International Shark Attack File, run by the Florida Museum—which records shark attacks worldwide—is still analyzing this year’s data.

Gavin Naylor, Program Director at the Florida Program for Shark Research, who works on the file, told Newsweek: “There have actually been a handful fatalities [worldwide] this last year. The challenge is to determine whether or not they were ‘provoked’ or ‘unprovoked.’ We are still researching these cases. In general the numbers are slightly lower this year but not significantly so.”

One fatal attack

The U.S. saw one fatal shark attack in 2022, in Hawaii.

A woman from Washington State had been snorkeling off the coast of Hawaii near Keawakapu Point on December 8 when she disappeared without a trace. She had been with her husband at the time, who was also snorkeling nearby.

Several days passed with the woman’s whereabouts remaining a mystery, before officials confirmed that she had been attacked and killed by a shark.

Several eyewitness accounts confirmed the cause of death.

One witness told Hawaii’s Department of Land and Natural Resources that he had spotted the couple snorkeling as the shark approached. He said he began yelling at them both to get out of the water.

The witness then said he saw a shark feeding on something “in the middle of the red cloud in the water.” The woman disappeared, but the eyewitness continued yelling at the man to get out of the water.

The woman’s husband also said he had seen a shark about 50 yards offshore. After the woman went missing, he continued to search for her. The shark then began to circle the man, but eventually left the area. The husband had noticed it had blood around its gills.

The shark’s exact species was not confirmed but some believed it to have been a tiger shark. The tiger shark is one of the “Big Three” shark species responsible for most shark attacks on humans, along with the bull shark and the great white.

The U.S. is usually the country with the highest number of reported shark attacks per year, the International Shark Attack File said.

There have been a few more shark attacks in 2022 compared with the previous year when the International Shark Attack File recorded 47 confirmed unprovoked shark attacks.

In 2021, there were 42 percent more shark attacks than in 2020 but this was largely explained by fewer people being in the water during the coronavirus pandemic.

Of all states, Florida is usually the one with the highest number of attacks. This trend has been consistent for decades and the state has consistently topped shark bite charts. In 2021, Florida’s 28 shark attacks represented 60 percent of the U.S. total.

Shark bites in 2022

While there has only been one U.S. fatality this year, it has not been the only attack to occur.

A 17-year-old high school cheerleader, Addison Bethea, had her leg amputated after being attacked by a shark in Florida.

Bethea had been in the waters off Keaton Beach on June 30 when she was attacked by a shark thought to be 9 foot long.

The shark did not let go of her leg until Bethea’s brother dragged her out of the water away from its grip. The teen survived the attack but lost a leg.

In November, a California woman was bitten and shaken by a shark. Lyn Jutronich had been swimming off Del Mar Beach in San Diego on November 4 when she felt the shark slam between her legs.

As the shark clamped down on her right leg, it shook the limb once “like a dog” before letting her go.

Once an avid swimmer, Jutronich said she was not sure she would ever go into the sea again following the incident.

A spate of shark attacks also took place in New York state from June 30 to July 20. There were as many as six shark bites during this time, across beaches in the same vicinity. Before this, the Shark Attack File had only recorded 12 unprovoked bites in New York before 2022.

Do you have an animal or nature story to share with Newsweek? Do you have a question about sharks? Let us know via [email protected].

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