My flashlight lit up the narrow trail I hacked days earlier down to a wetland edge. The whitetails I targeted followed it with the regularity of New York City subway commuters. I stopped just short of the main trail and yanked a bottle of estrus-based doe urine from my pocket. With its misting nozzle I aimed for some nose-level vegetation on both sides of the trail and hazed the area lightly with scent.

As I climbed into my treestand in the predawn, I felt good that any buck passing would pause for a second, giving me precious seconds to draw and settle my Mathews bow for a successful hunt.

Some of you, firearm or archery hunters, probably question my decision to use scents. I know a handful of outfitters who flatly decline to allow the use of scent around their stands for fear of spooking deer. I don’t blame them. Cheap scents, poorly-executed deployment or lackadaisical scent control on your behalf all could lead to a whitetail spooking or worse, associating the smell with a trap.

One outfitter even told me of a hunter using a whole bottle to soak up a half dozen or more scent wicks that he hung like Christmas ornaments around his stand. He found them the next time he put a different hunter in that stand. It might have worked, but likely would raise white tails in alarm rather than stirring curiosity.

The use of deer scents can be a boon to your hunt, but only if you use them right.

PREPARE

To ensure you can get your scent positioned appropriately in shooting lanes, you need a plan. Begin by clearing paths to and from shooting lanes that you can use, thus avoiding direct travel on deer travel routes. Despite your best efforts to be scent free with clothes laundering, rubber boot usage and spraying down with scent-eliminating products, you still likely leave a bit of you on every branch you brush by. Your boots may even be spreading a bit of you on the ground.

How do I know? Coyotes give me the best gauge of my scent-elimination success. Whenever a coyote slips through the brush and crosses one of my access routes, I watch them for a reaction. Most of the time they hit a wall and slink out like a scolded dog, or worse yet, turn and flee. I rate a coyote’s sniffer one notch above a deer, but a buck could react the same way if you’re careless.

By avoiding the main trails and pruning access routes to shooting lanes from your stand, you avoid leaving any scent where you hope to shoot a deer. Clear and trim vegetation so you can move back and forth to your shooting lane without anything touching your clothes. Only your boots should hit the ground and those should be scent free as well. And as noted earlier, you simply use a mist or spray dispenser to lay a fog of spray where you hope to stop a buck for the shot.

You never have to step into a shooting lane and you can glass for spot-on accuracy. I follow this routine when hunting with my bow, even when I’m carrying my muzzleloader into dense cover.

This corridor-clearing chore should be done in the preseason, and at the same time you may want to create a mock scrape  for the perfect shot placement. Your goal is to create a primary scrape, one that gets attention, so scrape out plenty of dirt area. Deer love to scrape in areas with little vegetation, so make it easy on them and clear a wide area to reveal black earth. You can even mix in some deer urine for deep-earth penetration.

And to continue interest in the scrape, use a dripper to disperse scent. Models that heat up and open during the day to release scent, then shut down at night when it’s cool, fake the impression of daytime deer visits. If your trickery works, bucks will take over the scrape and eventually you won’t need to add any scent at all. Deer will provide their own scent distraction while you focus on shooting from a nearby hide.

PURCHASE

Picking out a deer scent from dozens of choices is about as confusing as trying to purchase the right perfume for the leading lady in your life. Do your research. You want to purchase high-quality, fresh scent, not leftovers from last year as they could break down and spook deer.

Some manufacturers claim their urine is from a single doe or buck. Others mix and match while some even have concocted synthetic versions. If your budget allows, go with those that fill bottles from a single deer, but truth be known, most of my experience with scents is with bottles filled in community whitetail restrooms.

As long as the urine smells fresh and doesn’t have an ammonia tinge to it you should be OK. As you shop look for bottles that dispense with a misting nozzle to deposit a diversion in shooting lanes. If you’re re-filling mock scrape dispensers no mister is needed. Keep any purchase cool and out of direct sunlight.

As for what scent to use, I’ve never really seen a huge difference. Straight buck or doe urine can sidetrack a buck, or doe during any season. I’ve used estrus-based scents from September through December with similar, curious results. If you believe an estrus scent could spook a buck in the early season, save it for the rut.

My entire theory on scents is to use them as a minor distraction to pause a buck where I want him to stop. After more than 30 years of hunting whitetails from Canada to Texas and points East and West, I’ve only had a handful of experiences where whitetails actually followed a drag or picked up a scent wafting on a breeze. Most stumbled upon it right where I placed it and paused out of curiosity. If it was the right buck it was the end of the story.

PLACEMENT

Despite nearly 30 years of having most bucks ignore my wafting wicks and drags, I still go through the drag-rag motion from time to time. Nevertheless, my true passion and success is with the simple placement of scent via a spritz or freshening of a mock scrape. When a buck is distracted with one of these scent traps, it’s less likely to see me drawing my bow or raising my rifle.

During the hunt, I prefer to stay away from shooting lanes. As described earlier, I try to stand a few feet away from a shooting zone and mist scent into the area. Lean out to where you want a buck to pause at your ambush site and apply the aroma of whitetail with a spray.

Sounds easy, but you need to place it correctly. Whether you spray or use a wick my experience has been it needs to be a nose level. I’ve sprayed and dribbled scent on trails only to have deer disregard it and walk over it like trash on a city boulevard. Wicks and spray dispensed at deer-nose level receive attention. It’s the sector they’re surveying as they travel, and that’s even more important during the rut as bucks pick up the pace — even trotting between ridges. They’re not as perceptive as you’ve read when on the hunt for a hot doe.

If you do need to freshen a scrape or refill a dispenser during the hunt, wear scent-free footwear. Splashing in mud or water on the way to your stand can help in adding natural cover scent to the tread. Also don latex gloves as you handle dispensers to avoid leaving any traces of you at the scrape. If a buck reaches up to rub its preorbital gland and suddenly smells the McMuffin you had an hour earlier it could lead to a string-jumping ending.

An hour after sunrise, a brawny whitetail buck I knew from trail cameras circled the wetland before me. I had a hunch his circle would end right under my stand and a few minutes later the scattering of does signaled his approach. Like a scripted movie he came down the trail and paused to investigate the scent I had sprayed two hours prior. Totally immersed in the olfactory delight, I was able to draw my Mathews and send an arrow off for an ending to my season that had the smell of success.

Time to cut through all of the chatter.

The .300 Blackout (BLK) has been called everything from the 5.56 killer to the black mamba.

Designed by Advanced Armament Company as a replacement for the MP5SD, a 9mm sub-machine gun favored by special ops, it had to have more power, same sound level, and compatibility with the M4/AR-15.

The .300 BLK did exactly that…and gave civilians a serious upgrade for the AR-15.

But should you consider an AR or upper chambered for .300 BLK? What are the pros/cons?

We’ll walk you through the ballistics, cost, and real-world power of the .300 BLK vs 5.56/.223. And then if you want more…we have our standalone articles on the best uppers, ammo, & even optics.

So, if you’ve ever caught yourself pondering the .300 BLK…keep reading.

.300 BLK History

The .300 BLK has its origins in the .300 Whisper, a round designed…as the name suggests…to be shot suppressed.

The case is formed by stretching out the case of a 5.56mm NATO and trimming it down slightly.

It is then stuffed with fast-burning powders and any number of bullets weighing from 110 to 220-grain.

Voila!

What you have now is the ultimate short-range thumper that will feed both supersonic and subsonic ammunition and get its full ballistic potential (complete burn of the powder) from a 9-inch barrel.

The .300 BLK is really what two long protracted wars in the Middle East have taught us about the modern gunfight.

You need a hard-hitting, short, light, and quiet, gun that will own 0 to 300 yards.

The AR-15/.300 BLK combo does this markedly better than the 5.56 NATO.

Why You May Want a .300 BLK Upper/Rifle

The .300 BLK has easily been the most successful new caliber in the last 20 years.

Besides the easy conversion between 5.56 and .300 BLK, the .300 BLK does a lot the 5.56 can’t.

First off, it’s a very versatile load with projectiles weights ranging from 110 grains to 220 grains.

The 110-grain rounds are supersonic, and the 220 subsonic.

A subsonic round is much easier to suppress, and much quieter when suppressed. The .300 BLK also reaches peak ballistic potential from a 9-inch barrel.

The 5.56 requires a 20-inch barrel to reach peak ballistic performance.

.300 Blackout vs. 5.56 NATO

Strengths & Weaknesses

Both .300 BLK and 5.56 NATO are intermediate-class rifle cartridges for target shooting, hunting, home defense, and plinking.

The 5.56 is half the cost of 300 BLK and is available in more high-end loading suitable for precision rifle fire.

It also shoots flatter, experiences less recoil, and ammunition weighs about 40% less.

The .300 BLK offers a wider range of projectile choices, thanks to the .30 caliber bore, burns its full potential in a 9-inch barrel, and is a much better choice for hunting.

It also has the ability to cycle both super and subsonic ammunition without modification.

The .300 BLK also shows its strengths when short-barreled rifles and silencers are involved.

For a duty rifle that will conduct CQB work, this cartridge is a godsend.

Exterior & Terminal Ballistics

In the table above you can see the compared ballistics of both the .300 BLK and the 5.56 NATO.

It shows the barrels that the cartridges were designed around…20-inches for the 5.56, 9-inches for the .300 BLK, and the most popular civilian barrel length of 16-inches.

Exterior Ballistics

Exterior ballistics are the qualities associated with how a projectile flies through the air — wind drift, bullet drop, and zero range all fall into this category.

You can see above that the 5.56 is significantly flatter than the .300 BLK in flight. This is due to a faster velocity.

The .300 BLK uses bullets with a higher ballistic coefficient but isn’t moving fast enough to take advantage of its sleeker projectiles.

This is why the 5.56 shoots flatter and with less wind drift despite having almost half as much energy.

Terminal Ballistics

Terminal ballistics of a round are the qualities it has when it hits the target.

The round’s sectional density, the relationship of its mass and its weight, its ability to penetrate rather than fragment, and the wound channel it creates due to its bore size are all the study of terminal ballistics.

It’s important to note that while energy numbers can give you an idea of power, it’s only a single data point.

To the untrained observer, the .300 BLK seems to have the edge in terminal ballistics.

The stouter bullets, with more mass of a larger caliber, seem to be the more effective round.

While the .300 BLK does have slight obstacle defeating capabilities it isn’t markedly better in performance than the 5.56 with the correct loading.

Modern bullet design is closing the gap between calibers and making the smaller bores more and more effective.

Additionally, the 5.56mm NATO was designed to break up, tumble and flip end over end when it encounters a target.

This is called high-velocity projectile fragmentation and deformation.

As far as a clear-cut winner goes…it entirely depends on what you want from the round.

General Shooting

Target shooting, training, or informal plinking, shooting is just plain fun.

It can get expensive so go with 5.56 NATO.

The .300 BLK’s benefits just aren’t needed when all you’re doing is punching paper.

Look for bulk cheap 5.56mm and use it. You can always switch to .300 BLK when the time comes.

Home Defense

Your home is your castle and for keeping the peace you should walk softly and carry a rifle.

.300 BLK and 5.56 both have their pros and cons and what’s best for one person, may not be the best for another.

The best selling point for .300 BLK is that it can be used with a suppressor and a short barrel — both of which are great for home defense.

A short barrel makes it easier to move around your home and a suppressor protects you and your loved ones’ hearing.

That said, a major downside to .300 BLK in home defense is they have a lot of barrier penetration. Meaning that if you miss (or even if you do hit your target) there is a very good chance those rounds will carry through the wall.

Over penetration makes .300 BLK a very poor choice for anyone living in an apartment.

On the other hand, 5.56 has poor barrier penetration (it will still go through several layers of drywall, but loses effectiveness much faster than .300 BLK).

So it might be a better fit for apartment living.

Hunting

With modern bullet designs, the gaps between the power of calibers are shrinking.

But what you’re hunting and the range are the primary factors when choosing a hunting round.

If your quarry will include only small game, predators, or mid-sized deer at ranges inside 100 to 150-yards then go for the 5.56.

If you plan on hunting medium or large game — such as deer, hogs, or smaller bears — the .300 BLK is far superior.

The extra mass gives more reliable penetration than the 5.56. And the typical hunting ranges of these animals mean that the slight disadvantage of the trajectory is negligible.

However, if you’re looking to hunt any game at distances greater than 150-yards or game larger than an above-average whitetail — you should look at cartridges with a little more oomph to ensure ethical kills.

SHTF

Shoot both!

Uppers available for cheap online can make your weapons much more versatile.

Because the .300 BLK is derived from the case of the 5.56, all you have to do to switch caliber is change the barrel. In an AR-15 the best way to do this is to get a second upper receiver.

Keep all your mags, high-quality bolt, lower receiver, and take advantage of both cartridges.

.300 Blackout Safety

I do want to note one thing before you run out and get a new .300 BLK upper…you NEED to be careful when switching between uppers or even when you have a dedicated .300 BLK rifle and a 5.56 rifle.

.300 BLK can chamber in most 5.56 barrels, however, if you try to shoot it – your barrel (and sometimes more) will literally burst. Explosively.

Make sure you keep ammo and mags separate.

Personally, I keep them organized by using different color mags — FDE and black for 5.56 and Olive Drab for .300 BLK. I also double and triple-check things before loading a mag into the rifle.

Conclusion

The .300 BLK won’t ever supplant the 5.56 for the most ubiquitous AR-15 cartridge but it does have some key areas where it really shines.

Most notably, it does great in CQB environments or alongside suppressors and can run on your existing AR-15 — so long as you get a .300 BLK upper.

In short, we love the versatility of this cartridge.

Does a .300 BLK make sense for you? We’ve got a lot more where this came from!

• Best .300 BLK Uppers
• Best .300 BLK Ammo
• Best .300 BLK Optics

You need a good swimbait to catch fish consistently. There are so many types of swimbait out on the market, making it tough to know what swimbait to use and when to use it. I have found the 5 swimbaits listed below to be great for “Kraken” bass, helping me have great success after several years of trial and error. This article will walk you through what you need to look for in a swimbait. Plus, it’ll give you a strong baseline of swimbaits to use to consistently outperform all the others. Hopefully, this information on soft plastic swimbaits will help eliminate some confusion for you. In addition, there are several tips and a video of each of these swimbaits in action to help you become a better swimbait fisherman. Enjoy the post!

What Makes A Good Swimbait

A swimbait can be one of the best lures to use for bass fishing. They allow you to cover a lot of water and-best of all-bass crush them! Unfortunately, not all swimbaits are created equal. Almost every fishing brand has one kind of swimbait or another. What separates the effectiveness of a swimbait is its size, swimming action, and the colors.

Fortunately, I’ve spent a lot of time on the water, and boiled the mass amount of products down to 5 good swimbaits that will consistently catch you big bass all year long. Feel free to leave a comment below if you disagree with any of the swimbait listed. I’m always open to try new gear and techniques. Plus, don’t forget to check out the video at the bottom of the post to see these swimbaits in action and see proof of why these are the best. Soak in the stoke!

Keitech Easy Shiner Swimbait

One of the all-time best swimbaits is the Keitech Easy Shiner. This swimbait is awesome because the tail will wobble perfectly without barely any movement on the retrieve. Plus, the thin body is a perfect baitfish imitator. The best way to fish this swimbait is with a 1/8oz. darter jig head on a light spinning rod. You can cast it a mile and the darter jig head will help keep the swimbait horizontal as you retrieve it through the water. Prepare to reel in the bites with this awesome lure.

Rigging Up Keitech Easy Shiner Swimbaits

4″ Ayu Keitech Shiner

1/8oz. Gamakatsu Darter Jig Head

7′ Medium Heavy Spinning Rod & Reel Size 30

Basstrix Paddle Tail Swimbait

I have found the Basstrix Paddle Tail to be a great swimbait on the market. Its action is incredibly unique compared to any other swimbait. The entire body wobbles as the tail kicks. This extra vibration in the water from the Basstrix swimbait’s body wobble helps draw some serious strikes. The Basstrix needs to be retrieved a little faster than other swimbaits to get the right action, but it still crushes bass. Plus, the hollow body enable some cool rigging options to keep the bait from catching in the weeds. This swimbait is a definite must-have in your arsenal.

Rigging Up Basstrix Paddle Tail Swimbaits

1/4oz. gamakatsu swimbait jig head

5″ Basstrix Ayu Paddle Tail Swimbait

7′ Medium Heavy Baitcasting Rod & Reel

Jackall Rhythm Wave Swimbait

The Jackall Rhythm Wave is one of the best swimbaits because of its perfect finesse presentation. I love how the Rhythm Wave’s tail will kick on the slowest of retrieves. Plus, the body has a good rocking action to give it a little more presence in the water. Another cool feature about this swimbait is the scale imitation body style stripes that go down across the entire swimbait. This helps give it a natural baitfish appearance in the water. The bass never fail to choke this swimbait down with some serious stoke!

Rigging Rhythm Wave Swimbaits

3.8 Prims Shad Jackall Rhythm Wave

1/8 Oz Gamakatsu Darter Jig Head

7′ Medium Heavy Spinning Rod & Size 30 Reel

Megabass Spark Shad Swimbait

I like the Megabass Spark Shad swimbait for a variety of reasons. It swims incredibly straight and the body style is a perfect representation of a small fish with the extra front fins. The tail will kick easily on a slow retrieve, and this swimbait comes in some awesome natural colors. The only downside to this swimbait is the eyes will fall off; however, this doesn’t detract the bass from chomping it down. The holes in the top of the bait also help make sure you get the bait rigged up perfectly straight every time. The Spark Shad swimbait really gets those bass “Kraken.”

Rigging Megabass Spark Shad Swimbaits

4″ Real Megabass Spark Shad

3/8oz. Megabass Body Balance Jig Head

Baitcasting 7″ Medium Heavy Rod & Baitcasting Reel

Keitech Fat Swing Impact Swimbait

The Keitech Fat Swing Impact Swimbait is really useful to keep ’em biting. I love the action on this swimbait. It is incredible. The body kick and the tail wag is perfect at the slowest of speeds. This swimbait works amazing as a trailer on a spinnerbait or a swim jig. Traditionally, this swimbait is used a lot on umbrella rigs too. Yet, it still crushes sitting straight on a lead jig head, slowly retrieved through the water. This swimbait is a bass-killer all season long.

Rigging Keitech Swing Impact Fat Swimbaits

4.8″ Ayu Keitech Fat Swing Impact1/4oz. Dirty Jigs Bluegill Swimbait HeadBaitcasting 7″ Medium Heavy Rod & Baitcasting Reel

Swimbait Fishing Video Demonstration

Here’s some footage of these 5 effective swimbaits being tested by me in one morning of fishing. Each of these swimbaits produced some decent bass. Hopefully, you can pick up a few tips from these clips on how to fish these lures as well. A good swimbait and some nice lures are, hands down, one of my favorite ways to catch bass. I hope these videos get you stoked to see how well a swimbait can work for you. Enjoy the vid!

Hopefully, this video and information will help you level up your game to catch more bass on a swimbait. Don’t forget to subscribe to the blog and follow @Krakenbass on all the main social media accounts to keep you up to speed with new posts and information to help you catch more big bass! I’d love to hear from you in the comments below to learn some of your favorite soft plastic swimbaits. There is something magical about these swimbaits that really get those bass “Kraken!”

As Always,

Stay Stoked!

The best bow release for archery is just a click away, you just have to do your research. Luckily, we’ve done it for you. Through a variety of testing, we’ve come across and studied the best archery releases.

Here are the top 10 best bow releases for archery:

1. Spot Hogg – WiseGuy Release
2. Carter Enterprises Wise Choice Release
3. Tru-Fire Edge 4-Finger
4. TruFire Patriot Archery
5. SCOTT Release Little Goose
6. Tru-Fire Hardcore
7. TruFire Foldback Adjustable
8. Hot Shot Vapor 4-Release
9. Tru Ball Archery Fang
10. Truglo Detonator Ultra-Smooth

My Top 10 Picks Of The Best Bow Releases

1. Spot Hogg – WiseGuy Bow Release

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Design: Full Radius Handle

Weight: 2.4 ounces

Dimensions: 11.1 x 5 x 2.3 inches

Out of the different archery releases that I tried out, the Spot Hogg was definitely one of my favorites. It was lightweight, but heavy enough to have some substance to it. The design itself was more slim that I anticipated from the pictures, but this was a plus when I got to shooting. The padding on the handle itself was pleasant and it didn’t cause any chaffing.

Adjusting the strap was fairly easy, but I don’t think that it’s something that you could do on-the-go. You would have to stop for a few seconds to fix it, but that’s to be expected

To get a good idea of the efficiency of the design, I experimented with the self-reloading hook and forward trigger. I don’t really have any complaints, since it was so easy to use and relatively smooth. The open jaw was also a plus because it allowed me the fire pretty quickly.

2. Carter Enterprises Wise Choice Release

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Design: 3-Finger Release

Weight: 4.8 ounces

Dimensions: 8 x 5 x 1.5 inches

If you’re looking for something a little more elegant and sturdy, this release by Carter Enterprises may be perfect for you. The 3-finger release is simple, but fully functional. I tried shooting with it and didn’t find anything to complain about.

But while this release is perfect in many senses, I’m not sure that it’s coloring would be the best for hunting. I would have preferred camouflage or something darker that wouldn’t be so noticeable in the woods. However, with this in mind, this isn’t something that would stop me from buying. Because it really is such as lovely piece, it would do well for those that shoot with still targets.

Overall, while this product may initially seem a little pricey, this piece is definitely worth the money. As opposed to buying several inexpensive, perhaps mediocre, releases, this high-quality release would be the one that lasts.

3. Tru-Fire Edge 4-Finger Bow Release

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Design: 4-Finger Release

Weight: 4.8 ounces

Dimensions: 8.2 x 5.2 x 1.2 inches

The first thing that I immediately noticed about the Tru-Fire Edge 4-Finger release was its feel. Holding in my hand, it felt comfortable and it was much like something that I would buy myself. The body of the release felt durable and I could tell that it was well-made.

When shooting, my favorite thing about this release was that I could rotate it a full 360 degrees. While this isn’t something that I would purposely look for myself, it was definitely a plus when shooting. Something else that I noticed is that the release comes with an adjustable thumb, which made it pretty easy to shoot from both hands.

Overall, I think that this release would be good for still-target shooting, hunting, or anything in between.

4. TruFire Patriot Archery

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Design: Full Radius Handle

Weight: 0.32 ounces

Dimensions: 10.5 x 5.2 x 1.8 inches

From looking at the picture, I wasn’t immediately sold on this product, but since TruFire Patriot Archery was an Amazon best seller at such a ridiculously low price, I decided to give it a shot.

After trying it out and shooting with it for a bit, I can understand why this product sells. To be honest, it’s not the best in the world, but I can’t say that it’s a terrible product either.

The release itself does the job and I think that it’s a perfect starter for people who are just getting into archery. However, I’m not sure that it would be great for everyone and I, for sure, wouldn’t buy it for hunting. While the strap was easy to adjust, the velcro was fairly loud and would surely spook any animals.

Beyond this note, the full 360 rotation was quite nice and, like the release above, it was easy to switch between hands. Overall, I would recommend this product, but more for beginners who are not yet ready to invest a ton of money into equipment.

5. SCOTT Releases Little Goose

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Design: Full Radius Handle

Weight: 4 ounces

Dimensions: 9 x 6 x 0.5 inches

While I didn’t know what to expect, the Scott Little Goose had a few innovations that really exceeded my expectations and impressed me. The first thing that I noticed about the release was how amazingly sensitive it could be. I played around with the trigger, since it had a few different sensitivities that you could try out, and was pleasantly surprised. The soft trigger was pretty fun to use and it would probably be good for hunting.

Another innovation that I found on this product was the design of the length adjustment. In order to change the length of the release, I had to take out a little screw, slide the trigger up, and then put it back. While it was a little confusing at first, it was pretty simple once you got the hang of it.

6. Tru-Fire Hardcore Bow Release

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Design: Full Radius Handle

Weight: 6.4 ounces

Dimensions: 10.5 x 5.2 x 1.8 inches

The TruFire Hardcore release claims to have over 2 times the padding of other traditional bow releases. I’m not sure if I agree with the statement, but I will admit that it was pretty comfortable. The slightly wider and rolled edges were are a nice touch, but I wouldn’t have thought too much about it if they hadn’t mentioned it in the product description.

What interested me more about this product was its trigger, which can be adjusted from 3 ounces to more than 16 ounces. I tried it out and found it on par with the Little Goose release, despite the different design.

Shooting-wise, I tried firing with both hands and it was quite a pleasant experience, so I have no complaints.

7. TruFire Foldback Adjustable Bow Release

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Design: Full Radius Handle

Weight: 4 ounces

The TruFire Foldback Adjustable Release had a similar feel to the Little Goose. The leather was pleasant and did not slide, so it was very comfortable. In fact, it was possible for me to shoot with one hand and work with the other simultaneously. And while I didn’t do any extensive training with it, I’m sure that it would be perfect for climbing or hunting.

The release was also quite versatile with an adjustment length of about an inch, making it perfect for hands of all sizes.

Like the release above, this one also has a head that pivots either left or right buy a full 20 degrees. I found that this was effective at reducing torque. In addition, I did not have any trouble with the swept-back trigger and it was effective in not letting the string slip.

8. Hot Shot Vapor 4-Release

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Design: 4-Finger Release

Weight: 1.6 ounces

The Hot Shot Vapor 4-Release has been quite popular among the archery community. Though a few reviews have mentioned this release getting stuck or releasing prematurely, I personally didn’t have any of these problems. And luckily, from the looks of it, most people only had positive things to say about this released.

In my experience, the release was crisp and it was easy to adjust the trigger tension, trigger level, and angle. It was also very quiet, so it would probably be perfect for hunting.

9. Tru Ball Archery Fang

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Design: 3-Finger Release & 4-Finger Release

Weight: 4 ounces

The Tru Ball Archery Fang is similar to the Hot Shot and is an amazing release at a slightly higher cost. I shot with both the 3- & 4-Finger release and found the pinkie a bit weak. For this reason, I preferred the 3-Finger.

Some people in the comments have stated that it didn’t fit with larger hands, so this is something that you might want to consider when purchasing. Other than that, this was a good release, but not much different from the one above.

10. Truglo Detonator Ultra-Smooth

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Design: Full Radius Handle

Weight: 5.8 ounces

Dimensions: 12 x 7 x 2 inches

The Truglo Detonator Ultra-Smooth Release was another one of my favorites out of the releases that I tried. It was streamlined and pretty easy to use. The strap was comfortable and well-padded, so it didn’t cause any chaffing. The hook at the front also made it easy to load it up quickly.

My favorite part about this release was the stainless steel jaw, because you could tell that it was high-quality and built to last. The 360-degree rotating head was also a plus, but admittedly, I didn’t use it that much.

Why Should You Use A Bow Release For Accuracy?

Shooting without a bow release can be painful. Repeated use can hurt your fingers, so much so that they can get worn, calloused, or numb. Since the string puts a lot of pressure on your fingers, there are a lot of benefits to using a bow release.

You’ll find that with a bow release, your shots will be cleaner and more consistent. You’ll also find that it will improve your accuracy. There will be less slip-ups and as a result, you can use better arrows.

The antlers of a Union County bull elk have been officially scored at 406 6/8, which would make it the second-place record for a typical Rocky Mountain elk in Oregon.

The bull’s skull and antlers were found by a cone collecting crew on private timberland in the Catherine Creek Unit during the summer and turned in to ODFW.

Mark Penninger, a certified scorer for Northwest Big Game Records Inc, officially scored the elk in early November after waiting the required 60 days.

(An animal must undergo a minimum of 60-day drying period before it is officially scored as skulls and antlers will shrink some after their first “green” score immediately after harvest or pick-up.)

“Bull elk of this caliber are incredibly rare in Oregon but it’s great to see that they are still around,” said Penninger, who described the antlers as “jawdropping.”

“This bull is testament that age, good genetics, and high-quality habitat can produce truly world class elk,” he said.

ODFW does not track trophy records but will be submitting the score to Northwest Big Game Records for official placement.

Northwest Big Game Records is one organization that keeps records of game animals including both those that are harvested by hunters and those that are found dead.

(In Oregon, due to poaching concerns, it is unlawful to possess or transport found dead game mammals or their parts, except for naturally shed antlers or certain parts when salvaging roadkill.)

The last time an elk with typical antlers scoring higher than 400 was found or harvested was 1984 by Randy Ryerse in Crook County, an elk now bumped to the #4 record with a 400 0/8 score.

The #1 Rocky Mountain elk was a 418 2/8 bull taken in Crook County in 1942 or earlier and attributed to Hugh Evans.

Until now, the second largest was a bull taken in Grant County by Jim Sproul with antlers measuring 401 1/8. This bull was displayed in the John Day Elks Lodge until it was lost in a fire when the building burned down, according to Penninger. The bull had the longest main beam of any bull anywhere for a long time, he says.

With this Catherine Creek elk, the top four Rocky Mountain elk will all score higher than 400. After that, antler scores drop into the high 300s.

The two Tafts

The top 10 for typical Rocky Mountain elk still includes “Taft,” a Wallowa Lake bull that was scored at 391 4/8 for a typical Rocky Mountain elk in 1930. This bull is ranked even higher in the non-typical category-it’s the No. 3 state record with an official score of 411 0/8.

“In fairly rare cases, an animal meets minimum qualifications for both typical and non-typical categories for the species,” said Penninger. “Typical scores subtract non-typical points.” (Learn more about how elk and other big game are scored by listening to this week’s Beaver State Podcast with Penninger.)

According to David Morris of Northwest Big Game, this record setting bull is often mixed up with another one of the same name (both are named after William H Taft who served as U.S. President 1909-1913). But there were actually two different Rocky Mountain elk that came to be called “Taft” in northeast Oregon in the early 20th century.

While historic records indicate elk were abundant in the Wallowa Mountains and Blue Mountain Plateau, market hunting had reduced numbers to a few small herds by the late 1800s/early 20th century, so elk were transplanted into the state to restore the population.

(The Oregon Legislature provided protection for elk in 1899 by making it illegal to sell meat from wild animals and by closing elk season from 1909 through 1932, and the Rocky Mountain elk population has since rebounded to more than 70,000 today.)

The first “Taft” was one of the original elk relocated from the Jackson Hole area to Oregon in the early 20th century. In 1912, 15 elk from Wyoming were released at Billy Meadows in Wallowa County followed by another 15 in 1913, and one of those was the first “Taft.”

The first Taft’s shed antlers are still displayed at the Enterprise Elks Lodge. Sheds from the second Taft (the 1930 record-setting bull) were displayed at La Grande’s Elks Lodge and are now at the Baker City Elks Lodge, according to Morris. Their antlers look different.

Morris spent several years researching the two Tafts and the story about what he found is in his book (The Record Book for Oregon’s Big Game Animals, 6th Edition).

Based on his research, Morris says the second Taft was likely one of a handful of elk born in one of the enclosures at Billy Meadows where the transplanted elk lived for several years; the fences were taken down in 1922.

ODFW hopes to eventually display the Catherine Creek bull’s record antlers in one of our offices and thanks taxidermist Brody Turner for working with us to get them ready for display.

See https://www.nwbiggame.com/top_10.cfm for Rocky Mountain elk and other big game records.

When setup correctly, tarp shelters are like magic. With the right setup, you can stay dry in the rain, block rain, create a shady area to eat lunch, or even keep you warm on an unplanned night in the wilderness. There are literally hundreds of different tarp shelters you can use. Here I’ll go over the most important ones to know for camping, backpacking and survival/emergency use.

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Jump to:

• Infographic
• Which tarp shelter setup is best?
• Horizontal Ridgeline Tarp Setups
• Diagonal Ridgeline Tarp Setups
• Tarp Setups with Poles
• Other Tarp Shelter Setups

Tarp Shelter Setup Infographic

Which Tarp Setup Is Best?

The best tarp setups for camping are arguably: the A-frame, Adirondack, plow point, and holden tent. However, the best tarp shelter setup depends on many factors like the weather conditions, how you’ll be using it, and pitching conditions. Ideally, you will learn several setups including at least one which can be pitched quickly, doesn’t require trees or a ridgeline, has a built-in groundsheet, and is closed on three sides for weather protection.

Note: To hang a tarp properly, you’ll need to know the 7 main tarp knots and how to tie out the ridgeline and guylines.

Recommended Tarps:

• AquaQuest Guide Tarp: All-around good tarp which comes in a variety of sizes (10×10 size is 18.3oz).
• REI Trail Break Tarp: For when you need a larger tarp for car camping (12’x12′ size and 33oz).
• Sea to Summit Escapist Tarp: Lightweight tarp which is still durable (medium is 6 ft. 6 in. x 8 ft. 6 in and 9.5oz; large is 10×10 ft. and 12.3oz)
• Twinn Tarp by Gossamer Gear: Even lighter tarp for serious UL backpackers (just 9.7oz)
• Free Soldier Tarp: Very affordable tarp which is still lightweight. Plus it has tie-outs going down the middle! (large size is 118″ × 126″ and 42oz)

Don’t forget about cordage!

You will probably need at least 30 feet (10m) for a 10×10 tarp or 40 feet (12m) for a 10×15 tarp. I recommend getting REFLECTIVE paracord so you don’t walk into your ridgeline or tie-out points at night!

Horizontal Ridgeline Tarp Shelter Setups

These tarp shelters all have horizontal ridgelines. These are good options when you have two trees to pitch between. They are easy to learn and give you even headroom throughout.

The downside is that you’ll need a lot of rope (length of tarp + at least 8 feet for tying around trees). Some of the setups require even more rope to tie out guylines for walls or the roof. While many of these setups can be done with just poles, the roof has a tendency to sag.

Remember to make sure the ridgeline is perpendicular to the wind and the opening is on the leeward side!

1. A-Frame Tarp Shelter

The A-frame is one of the simplest and easiest tarp shelters to set up. It’s also somewhat versatile because you can hang it higher to get more headroom or hang it lower to get more interior space.

The major downside is that both ends of the A-frame shelter are open, so wind and rain can get in. For best protection, hang the A-frame so the openings aren’t facing the wind. If possible try to have at least opening next to a natural protection, such as a big bush which will block the wind from getting inside.

Instructions:

1. Hang your ridgeline about shoulder height.*
2. Put the tarp over the ridgeline. The midline of the tarp should be directly over the ridgeline.
3. Spread out the sides of the tarp so they are taut. You can adjust the height of the ridgeline is you want the tarp to be higher or wider.
4. Peg down the four corners of the tarp. Peg down the entire edge of the shelter for better weather protection.
5. Use a prusik knot to secure the tarp onto the ridgeline

Notes:

• A higher ridgeline will give you more headroom but will be narrower. A lower ridgeline will give you more width inside but less headroom.
• A 9×9 foot tarp hung at a 60 degree angle will give you a width of 4.5 feet and max headroom of 3.9 feet.
• It’s possible to use poles to hang the A-frame, but you’ll really need to stake them out. Even then, the roof will still sag – so it’s best to use a ridgeline for this tarp shelter.

Pros:

• Adjustable height and width
• Very fast and easy setup
• Weather protection on two sides

Cons:

• Somewhat claustrophobic inside

2. Lean-To Tarp Shelter

Also called a wind break shelter, the lean-to tarp setup is fast and easy. The downside is that it doesn’t protect against rain well. It’s also not great against wind, unless the wind doesn’t change direction. For this reason, the lean-to is only recommended for tarp camping in good weather or as a quick shelter setup for breaks.

Instructions:

1. Hang a ridgeline between two trees. Attach your tarp to the ridgeline. Alternatively, tie the top two corners of the tarp to the trees.
2. Peg out the bottom corners of the tarp.

Notes:

• You can also use poles to hang a lean-to shelter. In this case, first peg out the bottom two corners of the tarp. Then attach the top two corners to poles and stake them out.
• The “Envelope” pitch is a variation of the lean-to. Simply fold the tarp under itself to create a groundsheet before attaching it to the ridgeline.

Pros:

• Very fast and easy to pitch
• Possible with square or rectangular tarps
• Can pitch with ridgeline or poles
• Good headroom and interior space

Cons:

• Poor wind and rain protection

3. Wind Shed

Also called a fold-over wind shed, this tarp setup is a cross between a lean-to and an A-frame. Depending on the weather, you can set it up so the roof is flat (for more headroom and shade) or slanted (to repel rain). When the roof is slanted downwards (as in the drawing), the setup is called a “wind shield wedge.”

Instructions:

1. Hang a ridgeline.
2. Drape your tarp over the ridgeline so approximately 2/3 is hanging on the windward side and the other 1/3 is on the leeward side.
3. Extend the longer side of the tarp to make an angled wall. Secure the corners to the ground.
4. Using rope or poles, secure the corners of the shorter side to make a roof.

Notes:

You can pitch using poles instead of a ridgeline, but it’s somewhat tricky. You’ll need a lot of rope to stake out the poles to make it stable enough. Even then, the roof ends up sagging and doesn’t hold up well in high winds.

Pros:

• Good headroom
• Fast and easy setup
• Wind protection from one side
• Some rain protection

Cons:

• Requires a lot of rope
• Guylines are tripping hazard
• Difficult to pitch with poles instead of a ridgeline

4. C-Fly Tarp Setup

The C-fly tarp setup is the same as the wind shield setup. The difference is that, with the C-fly, you fold under part of the tarp to create a groundsheet. Because much of the tarp is used for the groundsheet, you won’t have as much interior space or headroom.

As with the wind shield setup, you can keep the roof flat (for more headroom and shade) or angle it downwards (for better rain protection). When the roof is slanted downwards, it’s called a “C-fly wedge.”

Instructions:

1. Hang a ridgeline about waist or shoulder height. A lower ridgeline will give you more weather protection but less headroom.
2. Fold the tarp under on line AB. This will be your groundsheet. It should be at least 2 feet wide for one person.
3. Drape the rest of the tarp over the ridgeline. AB should be on the windward side and CD should be on the leeward side.
4. Adjust the tarp so line CD is sitting on the ridgeline. The part hanging over the ridgeline (CDFE) will be your “roof”.
5. Pull corners A and B back to make an angled wall. Then stake them out.
6. Use rope or poles to secure points E and F to make a roof.
7. To make the shelter roof more taut, secure line CD to the ridgeline with a prusik knot.

Notes:

• To keep the wall and roof taut, secure points C and D to the ridgeline using a prusik knot.

Pros:

• Has groundsheet
• Adjustable height/interior space
• Decent weather protection

Cons:

• No weather protection on two sides
• Requires a lot of rope
• Can trip over guylines in the dark
• Difficult to pitch with poles instead of a ridgeline

5. Adirondack Wind Shed

This is one of my favorite tarp shelters. It offers very good weather protection while still giving you lots of interior space and headroom. One side is open, so you can have a fire in front of the shelter. Leave the “roof” up in good weather. If the weather gets bad, simply re-stake point D to pull the roof down.

The setup is also fairly flexible: you can experiment with folding the tarp at different places. Make the triangle folds bigger for more weather protection.

Instructions:

1. Hang a ridgeline about shoulder height.
2. Fold the tarp so triangle AEF is on the ground. The line EF should be on the windward side and point A on the leeward side.
3. Drape the tarp over your ridgeline. Line GH should be sitting on the ridgeline.
4. Pull EFHG back to create a wall. If you aren’t happy with the angle of the wall, adjust the height of your ridgeline.
5. Stake out points E and F
6. Pull point C inwards to create a side wall. Stake it down. Do the same with point B.
7. Using rope or a pole, stake out point D.
8. To make the shelter more taut, use a prusik knot to secure points D and G to the ridgeline.

Notes:

• If you want to use poles instead of a ridgeline with this setup, you’ll probably need a partner to help.
• Use fluorescent rope so you don’t trip over your guylines!

Pros:

• Good headroom and interior space
• Great wind protection
• Decent rain protection
• Has partial groundsheet

Cons:

• A somewhat difficult setup which requires practice to get right
• Uses a lot of rope
• Guylines are a tripping hazard

6. Body Bag Tarp Setup

Also called a tube tent, this is a simple tarp shelter. Because it is so small and uncomfortable, it’s really only for emergency situations. It is only closed on two sides. However, because the openings are so small, the tree trunks used for pitching will actually provide some weather protection. For even more protection, pitch next to a bush, boulder, or other natural protection.

Instructions:

1. Hang a ridgeline around thigh height.*
2. Fold the tarp along AB to create a groundsheet.
3. Drape the tarp over the ridgeline so CD is sitting on the ridgeline.
4. Adjust the position of the walls then stake out points A, B, E and F.

Notes:

• A 9×9 tarp will only give you a bit more than 2.5 feet of headroom at the highest point.
• I don’t recommend using poles for pitching the body bag setup. The roof will sag and there’s barely any headroom as is!

Pros:

• Good rain and wind protection from two sides
• Has groundsheet
• Quick and easy to set up

Cons:

• Open on two sides
• Claustrophobic inside
• No headroom and very little interior space
• Have to crawl inside

7. Shade Sail

The shade sail is also called the “hammock shelter” or the “diamond tarp.” Because it is pitched on the diagonal, you get more coverage. It’s popular for hammock camping and also as a sun shade for camp kitchens or even patios.

Note that the shade sail setup is not the same as the diamond fly. The diamond fly is also pitched on the diagonal, but one corner is staked to the ground. With the shade sail, both corners are elevated.

Instructions:

1. Hang a ridgeline.
2. Drape the tarp over the ridgeline. The diagonal midline should be on the ridgeline.
3. Use a prusik knot to secure the corners to the ridgeline.
4. Stake out the corners to create two angled walls. Keep the walls angled lower for more weather protection.

Notes:

• If you aren’t using a ridgeline, then just tie the diagonal corners to trees. Or attach to poles. However, the roof will sag a lot without a ridgeline.
• The guylines on this are serious tripping hazards. Use fluorescent rope!

Pros:

• Easy to pitch
• Lots of interior space
• Decent protection from rain and wind

Cons:

• Uses a lot of rope
• Guylines are tripping hazards
• Roof sags without ridgeline

8. Baker’s Wind Shed

The baker’s wind shed tarp setup uses a rectangular tarp. The tarp needs to be at least 10 feet on the long side if you want to sleep in it with your head towards the side walls. If your tarp is very large, you could also sleep with your head towards the back wall of the shelter.

I personally don’t like the baker’s wind shed setup very much. The Adirondack gives you more protection without sacrificing much space. However, the baker’s wind shed can be good when tarp camping with multiple people all sharing one big tarp.

Instructions:

1. Stake FG to the ground on the windward side.
2. Pull point A inward. Line AF should be at approximately 90 degrees with FG. Stake point A to the ground. Then the same with point D.
3. Attach points B and C to a ridgeline or poles.
4. Tuck corners E and H underneath the shelter to create a partial groundsheet. Alternatively, you can leave them outside the shelter.

Notes:

• Lines AB and CD are the height of the shelter when set up.
• An 8×16 foot tarp can be folded so line BC is 6 feet long. This will give you a max height of 5 feet and a depth of 9.4 feet.

Pros:

• Lots of interior space
• Protection on three sides

Cons:

• Need a long tarp
• Not lots of headroom

Tarp Setups with Diagonal Ridgelines

These tarp setups are good for when you only have one tree. You can also use a pole instead of a tree for many of these tarp setups. Unlike with the setups which use horizontal ridgelines, the roof won’t sag as much. Another benefit of these setups is that they don’t use a lot of rope.

You can get by with just 3 feet of rope for pitching some (though I recommend always bringing more just in case!). There is less interior space around the foot-end of the shelter, so the tarp will trap heat better. The drawback of this though is that they are claustrophic and you may need to crawl in feet-first.

9. Bivvy Bag Tarp Shelter

Also called the “cornet”, the bivvy bag tarp shelter is incredibly cramped (hence the name). However, it’s also one of the best tarp shelters for bad weather. You can pitch the bivvy bag on one tree or with a single pole. Unlike other tarp shelters which use poles, this one is actually easy to set up.

Ultralight backpackers will also love that the bivvy bag shelter requires just one guyline, so you save weight on rope.

What size tarp for a bivvy bag shelter?

You will probably want a 10×10 foot tarp for the bivvy bag shelter. The smallest size you can get away with is an 8×8 foot tarp. This will give you a shelter with an entranceway 4 feet tall and 4 feet wide and a length of 11 feet. But note that the groundsheet starts between CE (not at point D!). So, with an 8×8 tarp, the groundsheet length is only about 7 feet long. Because the end is so cramped, there’s actually barely enough room for a 6 foot tall person. You only get 3 feet of headroom at the place where the groundsheet starts and it gets narrow quickly.

Instructions:

1. Fold the tarp in half on the diagonal line AD
2. While holding the tarp upwards from point D, tuck sides AF and AB underneath so they are slightly overlapping each other. This will prevent the groundsheet part of the tarp from touching wet or muddy ground.
3. Stake point A to the ground.
4. Secure point D to a tree or pole.
5. Adjust the walls and then stake out points E and C.

Notes:

• The bivvy bag shelter is sometimes incorrectly called the
• Because of the shape, this tarp shelter is not good for two people.

Pros:

• Good weather protection
• Has groundsheet
• Uses almost no rope
• Can pitch with one tree or pole
• Traps body heat

Cons:

• Very claustrophobic inside
• No headroom
• Have to crawl inside feet first

10. Hunchback Bivvy Bag

The hunchback tarp shelter is a variation of the bivvy bag setup. It uses a pole to support the roof above the groundsheet. This allows you to angle point D downwards to create a “beak,” which means that the shelter roof blocks rain better.

Instructions:

1. Fold the tarp in half on the diagonal line AD
2. While holding the tarp upwards from point D, tuck sides AF and AB underneath so they are slightly overlapping each other. This will prevent the groundsheet part of the tarp from touching wet or muddy ground.
3. Stake point A to the ground.
4. Put a pole upright at point G
5. Secure point D to the ground
6. Adjust the walls and then stake out points E and C.

Notes:

• This tarp setup doesn’t need a ridgeline or trees at all, but I included it in this section so you can see how it differs from the classic bivvy bag setup.
• You can also set it up without a pole. In this case, you’ll create a tie-out point at point G and use guylines to attach it to a tree. Then you’ll tie the guyline at point D to the ground.

Pros:

• Great weather protection
• Has groundsheet
• Uses almost no rope
• Can pitch with one tree or pole
• Traps body heat

Cons:

• Very claustrophobic inside
• No headroom
• Have to crawl inside feet first
• Requires a pole
• Can easily knock pole over

11. Plow Point

Also called the plough point, flying V or diamond fly, this is another easy tarp shelter. You don’t need to use a ridgeline at all – just tie it directly to a tree. However, the plow point does have a tendency to sag if you don’t use a ridgeline.

Instructions:

1. Secure one corner of the tarp down on the windward side.
2. Tie the opposite corner to a tree or secure it to a pole.
3. Spread out the sides and secure down the remaining corners.

Notes:

• Tying the tarp higher will give you more headroom but less interior space and weather protection.

Pros:

• Very easy to pitch
• Uses very little rope
• Only needs one tree or pole
• Adjustable height and interior space
• Lots of room for gear storage

Cons:

• Hard to get sides taut without ridgeline
• No protection on one side

12. Half Pyramid Free End

I personally don’t like this tarp shelter setup very much. IMO, the A-frame closed end or diamond fly give better coverage while providing more interior space. The bit of groundsheet you get with the half pyramid isn’t enough to justify the lost interior space.

However, the half pyramid can be very useful when combined with other tarp setups. For example, you can use it to make a vestibule or close off the entrance of another setup. Or you can put two half pyramids together to make a fully-enclosed tent.

Instructions:

1. Fold point A under the tarp. Stake down points E and F.
2. Secure point D to a tree or pole.
3. Pull in point B to create a wall. Depending on the angle of the roof, you may need to fold under some of the tarp. Stake down the corner. Do the same with point C.

Pros:

• Lots of headroom
• Easy setup
• Can be used with other setups
• Decent weather protection

Cons:

• Only partial groundsheet
• Not much interior space

13. Forester

The forester is a more difficult tarp shelter to pitch. It doesn’t work well with tarps made from more rigid materials (like painter’s dropcloth). You are better off using silnylon or canvas. Once you master this pitch though, it’s incredibly useful. You get excellent weather protection without sacrificing usable space.

Instructions:

1. Stake down corner A on the windward side.
2. Fold point D downwards to create point G.
3. Support point G with a pole. It helps to have a partner hold it up for you while doing the next steps.
4. Pull point C forward to create wall ACG. Stake point C down.
5. Pull point B forward to create wall ABC. Stake point B down.
6. Spread out triangles CGE and BGF to make door flaps.
7. You’ll have a bit of extra tarp material hanging inside the shelter. You can use a clip to hold it out of the way.

Tip: If you are going to use this pitch frequently, I suggest making a little mark on your tarp where the pole should go. Also note the height of the pole. This will make it faster and easier to set up.

Pros:

• Excellent weather protection
• Doesn’t require trees
• Uses very little rope
• Lots of interior space and decent headroom

Cons:

• Difficult to pitch, especially alone
• Requires pole

14. Bunker Half Cone Fly

The bunker half cone fly is similar to the plow point in that both are pitched on the diagonal. The difference is that the bunker setup uses two additional guylines to pull out the sides of the tent. This creates a V-shaped roof and two almost vertical walls.

While the configuration means you get slightly less interior space, you get much more headroom. This makes the bunker suitable for multiple people and much more comfortable for multi-night stays. It’s also better for larger tarps because the additional guylines prevent the walls from sagging.

Despite looking easy, the bunker half cone fly is actually a bit tricky to set up. You’ll need a good tarp too since the guylines put a lot of strain on the sides and they can easily tear.

Instructions:

1. Stake point A to the ground on the windward side.
2. Tie point D to a tree or a pole on the leeward side. Alternatively, you can run a ridgeline from point A to a tree and connect point D to it. This will help prevent the roof from sagging.
3. Pull out point B and stake it to the ground. Do the same with point F.
4. Attach a guyline to point C. Pull it outwards and secure it to the ground. Do the same with point E.
5. If windy, stake down the edges on AB and AF

Pros:

• Good weather protection
• Lots of headroom in the front
• Large entryway

Cons:

• More difficult pitch
• Roof sags without ridgeline
• Requires two additional guylines

Tarp Shelters which Use Poles (No Trees Required)

These tarp shelters are a bit more tricky to set up because you’ll need to stake out the poles to keep them upright (which takes some practice). If you have a very large tarp, then you’ll need a long pole – which may require you lashing two poles together. But, these tarp shelters are good to know in case you can’t find a suitable tree for pitching against. They are also great tarp shelters for ultralight backpackers because you don’t need to bring much rope with some setups.

Note that there are also many UL tents which use trekking poles instead of normal tent poles. See the best trekking pole tents here.

15. Holden Tent

Also called the “A-frame closed end” shelter, the holden setup is one of the best tarp shelters for ultralight backpacking, especially with two people. It is very fast to pitch and doesn’t require any trees.

For a tarp shelter with three walls, there is actually a lot of interior space inside and decent headroom. Since the shelter is open on one side, it doesn’t feel claustrophic either.

My main complaint with the holden tent shelter is that you have to lay the tarp flat on the ground. This means that, if the ground is muddy, the underside of the tent completely dirty. Thus, for muddy weather, you are better off with a shelter like the plow point.

Instructions:

1. Lay the tarp flat on the ground.
2. Stake out points A, B and C.
3. Put a pole under the tarp at point E. You’ll need to angle it slightly forward.
4. Pull point D forward to create a wall then stake it down. Do the same with point F. You might need to have a partner hold the pole upright while doing this.
5. Secure the pole in position with a guyline.

Notes:

• Depending on where you stake down the walls, you will end up with either a square or triangular interior.

Pros:

• Good interior space
• Decent headroom
• Weather protection from three sides

Cons:

• Can accidentally knock over the pole when getting in/out
• Takes practice to pitch by yourself

16. Dining Fly

The dining fly is one of the most important tarp shelters to know for car camping. As the name suggests, it is great for creating a covered area for cooking and eating. It might take a few tries to figure out the optimal height and roof angle (and thus the right pole length and guyline position). But, once you figure this out, the dining fly is actually pretty simple to set up.

Instructions:

1. Lay the tarp flat on the ground where you want your shelter to be.
2. Attach guylines (about 4-6 feet long each) to all four corners of the tarp.
3. Stake out all of the guylines. They should be approximately 5 feet away from the corners of the tarp and set at a 45 degree angle from the corners.
4. Find two very long poles. If you can’t find poles long enough, you can join two poles together using round lashings.
5. Using half hitches, tie long guylines to the top of each pole.
6. Push the first pole underneath the tarp so it’s at middle edge. It helps to have someone hold this pole in place while you do the next steps.
7. Push the second pole underneath the tarp. Now the roof of the dining fly should be completely raised.
8. Stake out the guylines on the poles.
9. Adjust the guylines on the corners so the tarp is very taut.

Pros:

• Excellent headroom
• Lots of interior space

Cons:

• Uses two very long poles and a lot of rope
• Takes practice to set up, even with help
• Rain and wind enter from sides when pitched high
• Underside of tarp gets dirty when ground is muddy or wet

17. Toque Tent

The toque tarp tent is quite different from the other setups. Instead of having the pole in the front of the shelter, the pole is set in the back. This means you end up with more headroom in the back (but a really low entranceway). Two guylines pull on the entranceway to create an awning. This awning does a great job of repelling water away from the shelter. However, the toque tent isn’t very stable in heavy winds.

Instructions:

1. Fold the tarp so points A and B are together. Stake them to the ground together on the windward side. This is now called “point AB.”
2. Put a pole under point G. The bottom of the pole should sit on point AB. This will make sides AG and BG stand straight up.
3. Pull out point C to create triangular wall AGC. Stake down point C. Do the same with point F.
4. Attach guylines to points D and E. Pull them outwards and stake them down. This will create a low awning.

Pros:

• Pole at back instead of blocking entryway
• Good rain protection

Cons:

• Weird interior space
• Not very sturdy in high winds

18. Tarp Tent

The tarp tent configuration can be a bit confusing at first. But, it’s actually not that difficult to set up. It’s a favorite tarp shelter for ultralight backpacking.

Instructions:

1. Lay tarp flat on the ground.
2. Stake out points A and B.
3. Now stake out points C and D, making sure that folds AD and BC are nice and tight.
4. Tuck corner F underneath fold AD. Then tuck corner E underneath fold BC.
5. Point H is on the ground. Pull tarp corner G there and stake it in place.
6. Point J is also on the ground. Pull tarp corner I there and stake it down.
7. Put a pole underneath the tarp so it stands up at point K. Put a cloth over the top of the pole so it doesn’t tear a hole in your tarp.
8. You’ll have a flap of tarp hanging in the entryway to the shelter.
9. Attach guylines to the midway points on the flap (points L and M). Pull the guylines back and secure them to the ground along the walls of the shelter.
10. Run a guyline from point N to the ground directly in front of the shelter.

Pros:

• Excellent weather protection
• Decent interior space

Cons:

• Underside of tarp gets dirty if setting up on wet or muddy ground
• Slightly more difficult to learn
• Pole can get knocked over

Other Tarp Shelter Setups

Once you learn the basic tarp shelter setups, you will be able to experiment with variations to meet your needs — such as staking out an extra side to get more interior space or adjusting the position of the ceiling to block rain. Here are some examples.

19. Modified A-Frame

One wall of the tarp has been pulled outwards in the middle to get more interior space, but the sides are down for weather protection.

20. Kayak Pitch

This is essential an A-frame tarp setup with one side more slanted down than the other. Instead of poles, kayak paddles are used.

21. Large Bunker

This tarp setup a lot like the bunker half cone. However, there are extra guylines on the sides. This helps pull out the walls to keep them from sagging and to give you more interior space.

22. UL Tarp Setup

Pitching low to the ground means you get weather protection even from a tiny, ultralight tarp. The head area is staked a bit higher so it isn’t as claustrophic inside.

23. Wind Shed Variation

One walls slants and the other has a partial wedge to make use of the space and tree positions.

24. Wind Shed Variation 2

25. Half Tetra Wedge Cover

This is a flying half tetra wedge setup. The roof is angled downwards, which is great for directing water off the tarp in rainy weather.

26. Homemade Tarp

Here’s a very small, UL tarp made by Bob Cartwright of The Outdoor Station.

27. Umbrella

Here’s a way to set up a tarp so it makes an umbrella shape.

Image credits: “Pyramid and Tarps” (CC BY-SA 2.0) by Umnak “Finland_Canoeing_01” (CC BY-NC-SA 2.0) by jjay69, “Kitchen Tarp” (CC BY-SA 2.0) by Umnak “Bob and Tarp” (CC BY-NC 2.0) by Andy Howell “Our Tarp at Petroglyph” (CC BY-SA 2.0) by Umnak “Tarp camp shelter” (CC BY-SA 2.0) by Umnak “Sheep Camp Tarp” (CC BY-SA 2.0) by Umnak “Inner Point Camp” (CC BY-SA 2.0) by Umnak “Sarah’s tarp” (CC BY-SA 2.0) by Umnak “Tarp Camp on Deer Island, Ernest Sound,” (CC BY-SA 2.0) by Umnak “Tarp Camp, Inner Pt” (CC BY-SA 2.0) by Umnak

The story of kangaroos being released into the Wyoming landscape fooled just about everyone.

On April 1, County10.com announced that the Wyoming Wild Game Department had “released the first of five planned batches of 90 Antilopine Kangaroos into the Wyoming outdoors.”

Project Sage Hopper, as it was dubbed, was meant to increase wildlife-viewing opportunities, while also providing greater hunting options for outdoorsmen and women. The well-written piece had plenty of quotable lines from wildlife officials, as well as links to all of the proper wildlife agencies.

The trouble with the story was that it was a hoax! A wonderful, convincing, magnificent hoax.

The story spread like wildfire across social media, with seemingly only a few astute readers catching onto the chicanery. The majority of people, from all of the comments I read on the various repostings of the story, seemed to have swallowed the tale hook, line and sinker.

Many folks expressed their confusion. “Why would they do this?” they asked.

More expressed their outrage and disgust with the wildlife agencies allegedly responsible for introducing a non-native species into the Wyoming environment.

I shared the story on my own page, Stumpjack Outdoors, and had to actually delete a couple of comments because they were over the top in the vulgarity and passionate anger they expressed.

Some folks decried Project Sage Hopper with declarations that the WWGD’s release of the first 90 kangaroos would surely destroy native animal populations, while others heralded the increased hunting opportunities that would result. Others wondered aloud whether or not the meat from the marsupials would be edible or how they would adapt to the harsh Wyoming winters.

It was truly a convincing hoax. My own wife paused as she read the article, being taken in for a moment. It was gloriously clever.

But alas, the pictures shown in the piece were not of kangaroos being released as part of a Wyoming migration initiative. They were of mule deer, with the featured image being photoshopped to show a kangaroo bounding away instead of an actual collared mule deer:

If people were sold on much of the content of the article a tip-off to the phoniness of it should have been in a final sentence, where the author declared that “A short-list for future proposed introductions include the koala, wallaby and the endangered Tasmanian Devil.”

If you were fortunate enough to also see a follow-up piece published later the same day by The Brine Shrimp, you would have read how the ill-mannered kangaroos were already wreaking havoc with the local population. The roos were allegedly engaged in drunken acts of vandalism, breaking and entering and other acts of mayhem.

The report stated:

Jed Cummings, a Coalville resident said “I went outside today to go to work and noticed broken glass on the ground by my truck. The kangaroos stole a few CDS from my collection. They were pretty selective about what they took. Men at Work, Midnight Oil, AC-DC, Keith Urban, Olivia Newton John and Crowded House CDs. They only took CDs made by Australian bands. That’s when I knew it was the damn kangaroos!”

It makes me smile to think of how beautifully conceived and executed this truly “fake news” piece was. It should make you smile too, even it temporarily fooled you.

Well done and hats off to whoever created this brilliant hoax.

Happy April Fools Day!

Like what you see here? You can read more great articles by David Smith at his Facebook page, Stumpjack Outdoors.

NEXT: RACCOON WILL CLEAN YOUR HOUSE FOR TREATS

WATCH

https://rumble.com/embed/u7gve.v3tp7h/

Ryan Graves

When it comes to historical duck calls, the Glodo name is recognized as being the “pinnacle” of all calls amongst collectors, especially those that collect vintage calls from Illinois and Tennessee. The Glodo name is also accompanied with much mystery and lore. The first mention of an overall Glodo duck call was in Nash Buckingham’s 1928 article, “The Neglected Duck Call” which read:

“Swamp angels and market hunters of that day, however mothered by apparent necessity, were using handmade calls not much different than today’s models. As in most contrivances, our best calls spring from those most early modes. The most noted of early calls was the Glodo, made, I think, by a Frenchman famed for his prowess with gun and call on a once well-known Southern Illinois marsh. My friend, Guy Ward, of Reelfoot Lake and trap shooting fame, is the proud possessor of an original Glodo. I have heard that as a reed producer and toner, Glodo’s experimental turn for metal manipulation was a little short of marvelous.”

Up until the 1980s, it was thought that Victor Jr. was the only call maker in the Glodo family to make calls. Through the vast and relentless research of Mr. Gerald Droge of Anna, Illinois, it is now known that many Glodo family members made calls.

It all started in 1840 when Victor Glodo Sr. immigrated to the United States from France. Victor Sr. landed in southern Illinois, outside of St. Louis, where he met a local woman, got married and started a family. His first son, Victor Glodo Jr., was born in 1845, and his second son, John Nicholas, was born in 1847. At some point in the late 1850s, Victor Sr. lost his wife. Soon after he packed up the two boys and moved to Degonia Township in Jackson County in southern Illinois. Degonia is located along the Mississippi River bottoms between Chester and Murphysboro, Illinois.

In July 1862, both Victor Sr. and Victor Jr. volunteered for service in the Union Army. Victor Sr. was honorably discharged a few months later after suffering a heat stroke and returned to Degonia. Victor Jr. remained in the service and returned home in 1871. Around the same time, Victor Sr. remarried, and his third son, Albert Henry Glodo was born. At this time they were all living down the road in Fountain Bluff where the Big Lake Marsh was located that was earlier mentioned in Nash Buckingham’s article. During this time, they were hunting ducks for the market and when they started to make duck calls.

It can be rather difficult trying to figure out which members of the Glodo family made individual calls that are attributed to them but a trained eye can say that a duck call was more than likely made by one of the family members.

It is not known for certain that Victor Sr. made calls but early records show that he worked as a carpenter and a blacksmith so one could infer that he probably did. It is known though that all three of Victor Sr.’s boys made calls. The calls made by Victor had rounded shoulders, a bulbous stopper, and had a copper reed. Victor made both smooth barrel and checkered calls. His calls were very well made considering that he made them all by hand using homemade carving tools.

The calls made by John Nicholas mostly had flat tops, copper reeds, and a checkering pattern much different than that of his brother Victor. It was stated in an early article of Forest and Stream that John Nicholas was selling calls for as much as $10 in the early 1890s. The calls thought to be made by Albert Henry were similar in design to that of John Nicholas’ but were a bit smaller in stature and the checkering pattern was a little more refined.

In 1888, the Big Lake Marsh where the family market hunted was drained. The once waterfowl rich area would now be farmed for row crops. To continue hunting for the market, Victor Jr. packed up and headed to Reelfoot Lake in northwest Tennessee, and John Nicholas headed for the Big Lake area of northeast Arkansas, near Blytheville, only later to return home.

During this timeframe, John Nicholas’ oldest son, William Albert, started to make duck calls as well as Albert Henry’s two boys, Joseph E. and Walter Albert. The calls thought to be made by William Albert are similar to the calls his dad made but are much more crude. Calls that are attributed to Walter Albert are shorter in stature and have raised panels. Some of his calls have some checkering on them and others do not. Calls attributed to Joseph E. are well made but rather plain in design. The family sold their calls at a general store in Raddle for $1 or $2 apiece. The last of the Glodo family known to have made calls was William Albert’s son, Arzia Emerson, who was born in 1902. Arzia carved things such as ducks, geese, and snakes into his calls.

Although Victor Jr. made duck calls while living in Illinois, it was at Reelfoot Lake where his legend and legacy became larger than life. It is known that Glodo lived in a tent camp on Starve Island where he market hunted and fished commercially. He seemed to have made quite an impression on the locals with his knowledge of the area, hunting ability, and for the duck calls that he was making. He was the person that introduced duck calls to the Reelfoot area, so it didn’t take long before the locals began to hound him for calls. The calls that Victor made while in Tennessee are a much more refined version of what he made while living in Illinois but the calls that he made in his later years of life show that his woodworking skills were diminishing. Around 1900, Victor moved off of Starve Island to an area now known as “Glodo Hollow” on the old Lake Road in Samburg. This is where he died in 1910.

His call making left a legacy in the Reelfoot area and set the standard for many area call makers after he passed. The two most noted call makers that used his design were Sundown Cochran and Tom Turpin. In a 1931 Field and Stream article, Turpin wrote:

“After getting the opinion of many of the most expert duck callers in the country, I decided that the best model is the call produced by Glodo, an old-timer of the jack-knife-school of artists, who made his calls at Reelfoot Lake some twenty years ago. Glodo’s model is on the same principle as the Beckhart and Faifer, both of which are good calls and should satisfy any hunter. I prefer the Glodo for certain features; I think the groove is better shaped, the general proportions better and the reed is wider and shorter”

Consider yourself lucky if you have a Glodo family made duck call in your collection as they are very rare and valuable. You can see early examples of Glodo family calls from my collection that are on display at the Ducks Unlimited Heritage Center in Memphis at Bass Pro Shops Pyramid until September 2022. I can be reached at [email protected] and @rkegraves on Instagram.

Why You Should Walk Back Tune Your Arrow Rest

As I said, I have recently been experimenting with different broadhead options and while I did my testing at a maximum range of 30 yards, it wasn’t until I stretched the distance that the weakness in my system began to show its face. And, despite the fact that the average treestand bow-shot happens between 15-20 yards, I like to push the limits of my equipment and increase my maximum, effective killing range (MEKR) whenever possible.

My broadhead, which seemed to fly so precisely at 30 yards (matching my field points) suddenly began to develop a mind of its own when I hit 40 paces. However, instead of looking at the head in question with a skeptical eye, I knew exactly where the problem lies. It could be found in my arrow rest. The only way to fix the problem was to Walk Back Tune it.

How Do You Walk Back Tune Your Rest?

While the term might sound complicated the procedure is rather simple to perform. But, before we discuss the “how” let’s cover the necessary items you will need.

1. Large Target: Try to find the biggest one possible.
2. Duct Tape or Blue Painters Tape
3. Shooting distance of at least 40 yards
4. Allen Wrenches
5. Range Finder
6. Calm or No Wind.

Start by using the tape to make a T on your target face starting at about 6 inches below the top of the target. Depending on the speed of your bow, the vertical portion of the T might need to be longer or shorter.

Once you have made the T on the target face it is then time to shoot your first arrow. Starting at 10 or 20 yards, aim exactly where the horizontal and vertical portions of the T connect. If your arrows don’t hit the mark then adjust your sight only. Keep adjusting your sight until your arrow impacts the intersecting lines. Once that happens it is time to move further away from the target.

Using the same pin you used for the first arrow (20 yards) walk back to 30 yards and launch an arrow at the same intersecting point on the T. Then, walk back to 40 yards and, using the same 20-yard pin to aim with, shoot an arrow at the intersecting lines on the T. Repeat this process for 50 and 60 yards if possible. Again, all shots are taken while aiming at the same intersecting line of the T using only your 20-yard pin.

Once completed, you will find that of course, your arrows will fall from the top to the bottom. However, the critical detail will be which side of the tape they landed on; either right or left of the centerline on the T. You will notice that the further the distance of the shot, the further away from the centerline your arrows will be. This is normal as the greater the distance the greater the influence on arrow impact.

Adjusting Your Arrow Rest

Unlike sighting in your bow (when you chase the arrow with your sight’s pin), walk back tuning requires that your arrow rest be moved in the direction you want the arrow to go. For example, if your arrows are falling to the left of the centerline on the T then you will want to move your arrow rest to the right. Conversely, if your arrows are falling to the right of the centerline on the T then you will want to move your arrow rest to the left.

Believe me when I tell you it only takes a minute amount of movement in order to drastically change your arrow’s point of impact. More than once I have overcompensated and pushed my arrow beyond the desired impact point.

So, after making a small adjustment to your rest repeat the process to determine if more movement is necessary and in what direction. Pretty soon all of your arrows should impact the vertical line on the T from top to bottom. Remember, use only your top pin for all shots.

The Basics of 2nd and 3rd Axis Adjustments

I once thought that the 2nd and 3rd axis adjustments on my bow sight were more suited for the western big-game bowhunter. However, while prepping for a western hunt I realized the importance of setting these adjustments not only for elk in September but also for my favorite whitetail stand in November. As it turns out, the 2nd and 3rd axis adjustments are both critical for dead-on accuracy; especially in hill country or when shooting uphill, downhill, and even side-hill.

The 2nd Axis adjustment (which can be done with your bow leveled and resting) is probably the easiest to understand as it runs through the shooter’s line of sight and is adjusted by rotating the sight housing like the hands on a clock (clockwise or counterclockwise). Up close you might not recognize any effects if things are out of whack. However, at longer distances, your accuracy will suffer.

The 3rd Axis adjustment (which should be done while you are at full draw) influences the rotational axis that your sight level moves on. In other words, it is like a door swinging open either toward the shooter or away. Both of which you do not want.

Instead, when you reach full draw, your bow’s bubble level should be exactly perpendicular to your line of sight. You don’t want the level to angle (or hinge) toward you or away from you. If it does, even if slightly, the difference in angle will be enough to ruin your uphill and downhill shots. This typically results in left and right misses.

Second and Third Axis adjustments are made differently depending on what type of sight you are using and the manufacturer. Therefore, it is best to refer to your owner’s manual when attempting to adjust them. My intent with this article isn’t to show you how to do it but the importance of doing it.

However, one universal tool that will be needed is a level that attaches to your bow. You can either purchase one or you can build your own. I built my own and spent the money I saved on something else hunting-related.

Conclusion

While you might be knee-deep in hanging tree stands and organizing trail camera images, don’t neglect the most important variable in your whitetail efforts-your bow. After all, nothing else matters if it isn’t tuned to its maximum potential. With Walk Back Tuning and 2nd and 3rd Axis adjustments, you can rest assured that it will be.

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