The laws for hunting bobcats in Colorado still allow predator hunters to take bobcats. This article covers many of the fundamental laws you will need to know to get started. It also provides information such as seasons, harvest limits, and required permits for bobcat hunting in Colorado.

It is not a legal document and is not intended to cover all hunting laws and regulations. In 2022, Colorado introduced legislation to prohibit, among other things, bobcat hunting. That measure failed to become a law—but who knows what the next few years may bring. Hunters are encouraged to check for updates every season.

In Colorado, bobcat hunting season runs from December 1 to the end of February. A license is required. Bobcat may be hunted day or night, and there are no bag or seasonal limits.

Beginning March 1, 2021, a youth small game license, a furbearer license, or a furbearer harvest permit in addition to any variation of a small game license or small game and fishing combination license is required to take those species defined as furbearers, except coyotes.

Purchase a Colorado hunting license here.

Check out the Colorado hunting seasons.

First time hunting bobcats? Check out my article on the three vital tips for a successful bobcat hunt.

Did you know you can hunt coyotes in Colorado? Read this article on the laws for hunting coyotes in Colorado.

Related: Learn the rules for fox hunting in Colorado.

General laws for hunting bobcats in Colorado.

Hunting hours.

Legal times to hunt small game and/or waterfowl are one- half hour before sunrise to sunset.

An exception is made for furbearers, which can be hunted from one-half hour before sunrise to one-half hour after sunset. Raccoons, coyotes, bobcats, striped skunks, beavers and red, gray or swift foxes can be hunted at night.

See Furbearers under Small-Game Hunting Laws on page 5 for details.

Related: Need access to more properties? Find out how to ask for permission here.

Using artificial light when hunting bobcats in Colorado.

Can you use artificial light when hunting bobcats in Colorado while on private land?

Artificial light (private land) may be used at night to take beaver, bobcat, coyote, gray fox, raccoon, red fox, striped skunk and swift fox on private land with written permission of the landowner, designated agent, lessee, or authorized employee.

Related: Going the budget route? Make sure you pick the right color lens.

Related: Infrared riflescopes for new predator hunter good for 200 yards? Check out this article.

Related: Thinking you want a low budget thermal good for 150 yards? Check out this article.

Callers and decoys. Are permitted for bobcat hunting.

While electronic callers are expensive, mouth and hand callers are less pricey but take time to learn how to use.

Read this article and watch the video to learn how to use a closed reed rabbit squealer.

You can read about some highly effective but inexpensive ($20) decoys here.

You can check Amazon’s price list for callers and decoys here.

NOTE: SMART RIFLES are prohibited, including any firearm equipped with a target tracking system, electronically controlled, assisted, computer-linked trigger, or a ballistics computer. Any gun equipped with a computer processor scope is considered a smart rifle.

Can you use artificial light when bobcats hunting in Colorado on public land?

Artificial light (public land) may be used at night to take beaver, bobcat, coyote, gray fox, raccoon, red fox, striped skunk and swift fox on public lands by permit only, as follows:

a. Each permit shall be valid only for the time, species, and location specified on the permit. No permit will be valid during any deer, elk or pronghorn rifle season or during the 24-hour period prior to the opening weekend; nor during the opening weekend of any grouse, pheasant, quail, turkey or waterfowl season in those areas where such seasons are in progress.

b. An artificial light which is permanently attached to, or projected from within a vehicle is prohibited.

c. Taking shall not be permitted within 500 yards of a dwelling, building, or other structure, or in any area of public concentration where human safety would be jeopardized.

d. Such permit shall be carried while hunting and available for inspection upon demand.

e. Area wildlife managers and district wildlife managers may deny a permit where there is a potential that night hunting activities may result in significant adverse impact on wildlife resources by causing movement of large numbers of big game or otherwise.

Provided further that night hunting permits for bobcat will not be issued on public lands in the Canada lynx recovery area where Canada lynx are known to be present. When one Canada lynx has been taken by a bobcat hunter during the current year’s hunting season no night hunting permits for bobcat will be issued for the remainder of the calendar year in the Canada lynx recovery area or in the area outside the Canada lynx recovery area where the Canada lynx was taken. In such instance, any night hunting permits for bobcat already issued under this provision shall be terminated.

f. A permit shall not be required of any person, member of the person’s family, lessee, designated agent, authorized employee, or identified designee with written authorization when necessary to protect such person’s property. Refer to Chapter W- 17, Damage Caused by Wildlife for applicable regulations.

Pelt sealing requirements for Colorado.

Special Restrictions.a. All bobcat, or their pelts, shall be personally presented by the licensee for inspection and must be sealed within 30 days after take, or within 5 days after the close of the season, whichever is sooner, with a seal provided by the Division. Any bobcat hide/pelt not having a seal within 5 days after the close of the season shall be illegal and become property of the State. Seals will only be placed on bobcat legally taken in Colorado. No fee shall be required for the inspection and issuance of a legal possession seal, which shall remain attached to the hide until processed. Bobcat hides/pelts shall not be transported, shipped or otherwise taken out of Colorado until the hide(s)/pelt(s) are inspected and sealed. The legal possession seal, when attached to the bobcat or the pelt, shall authorize possession, transportation, and sale thereof. For the purposes of this regulation it is illegal to buy, sell, trade, or barter an untanned bobcat hide/pelt unless a permanent seal is affixed thereto. Only one legal possession seal shall be provided for each hide/pelt.

The release of the Ruger-made Marlin 1895 SBL .45-70 Gov’t rifle last year was very well received, and Marlin is following that up with the 1895 Trapper. It has the same chambering, satin stainless finish and gray laminate stock as the SBL, but the Trapper version has a shorter, 16.1-inch barrel. Its barrel is cold hammer forged out of 410 stainless steel, has a 1:20 twist and is threaded 11/16×24 for mounting a suppressor or other muzzle device.

With its shorter barrel and reduced overall length of 34.25 inches, the Trapper is ideal for anyone who wants to add a can to their rifle without making the gun so long that it becomes unwieldy or for those who hunt in tight cover and want the shorter barrel because it’s handier. Weight is 7.1 pounds, and the gun’s balance point is centered at the loading port, which gives it that “between the hands” feel shooters love.

The triggerguard plate, receiver and lever are all precision CNC machined from 416 stainless steel forgings. An oversized lever loop makes it easy to cycle quickly and reliably. The bolt features a side-mounted extractor on the bolt body and a spring-loaded ejector that rests in a recess within the receiver. There’s also a crossbolt safety located on the upper rear portion of the receiver. The hammer has both half- and full-cock positions.

1895 Trapper

The Trapper model features Skinner front and rear sights. The rear sight is an aperture design, and the aperture unscrews so it can be replaced with larger or smaller aperture sizes. The front blade sight is sturdy and sports a bright white stripe along the spine that is easy to see in low light. There’s also a dovetail in the barrel that allows you to add a buckhorn-style rear sight if you’d like. Unlike the SBL, there is no Picatinny scope rail.

The laminate stock on the Trapper has a darker color scheme than that found on the Ruger/Marlin 1895 SBL rifles. A dense recoil pad about 3/4 inch thick with a spacer is perfectly mated with the contour of the stock. The iconic Marlin horse and rider logo is laser engraved onto the grip, and there’s an “RP” proof mark on the left side of the barrel. “Mayodan, North Carolina,” Marlin’s new base of operations, is stamped on the barrel as well, and serial numbers for these rifles begin with the prefix “RM” for Ruger Marlin.

Even the trademark bullseye design that has graced Marlin rifles for decades can be seen on this gun, albeit with a red center in homage to the Ruger brand. “The 1895 Trapper is an excellent early addition to our new Marlin line,” said Mickey Wilson, vice president of operations at Ruger’s Mayodan, North Carolina, facility. “It’s easy to handle, sports a great sight system and is powerful enough to take any North American large game animal, as well as offering protection to guides and fisherman from potentially dangerous animals.”

At just over six pounds, the trigger isn’t light, but it’s clean and sufficient for an open-sighted lever gun. I managed to punch groups right at an inch from 50 yards. With the Trapper’s shorter barrel, the Federal load ran about 100 fps slower than spec velocity, and the Hornady load was almost 200 fps slower.

Field Function

The Marlin Trapper functioned flawlessly with one exception. I ran dry during one drill, and in my haste to reload, I didn’t fully seat the last cartridge in the magazine tube. When I attempted to cycle the action the bolt locked in the open position with the lever frozen, which is a telltale sign of this error. This common failure with Marlin rifles is entirely preventable as long as the shooter has the presence of mind to fully seat each round. Recoil from the Trapper is stiff, especially from the bench. Off the bench the rifle isn’t unpleasant at all, and with the gun held firmly and fired from a solid stance, it’s possible to deliver fast follow-up shots.

At a suggested retail price of $1,349, the 1895 Trapper is $50 cheaper than the SBL. That’s higher than Henry’s All-Weather Lever Action .45-70, but the Henry holds one less round; has a longer, unthreaded barrel; and lacks the Trapper’s impressive wood and Skinner sights. Is there still a place for big-bore lever guns in the hunting arena? Absolutely. For hogs, deer, elk, moose or anything that has the potential to bite back, there are few better options, and that’s because nothing handles like a lever-action carbine.

There’s also no doubt that these guns will be gobbled up by Marlin collectors, but you don’t need a dogmatic reason to buy one. These American-made lever actions are simply fun to shoot. That’s reason enough to own one.

Marlin 1895 Trapper Specs

• Type: Centerfire, lever action
• Caliber: .45-70 Gov’t
• Capacity: 5 rds.
• Barrel: 16.1 in., stainless; 1:20-in. twist, threaded 11/16×24
• Overall Length: 34.25 in.
• Weight: 7 lbs., 1 oz.
• Stock: Gray, laminate
• Finish: Satin stainless
• Trigger: 6 lbs., 1 oz.
• Sights: Skinner adjustable aperture rear, Skinner blade front
• MSRP: $1,349
• Manufacturer: Marlin Firearms

Choosing the right air compressor hose for your compressed air system can be a difficult task. With so many options, and each offering their own benefits, DIYers often turn to advice to help them come to a decision.

This article will provide you with the pros and cons of PVC, rubber, polyurethane, and hybrid air hoses, along with their suited applications and other hose selection considerations to make your decision a lot easier!

Table of Contents

• PVC Air Hose
• Rubber Air Hose
• Polyurethane Air Hose
• Hybrid Air Hose
• Hose Selection Considerations
• Frequently Asked Questions

PVC Air Hose

PVC air hoses are probably the most affordable air compressor hose available on today’s market. PVC hoses consist of a PVC-compound inner tube and a polyester spiral outer, which allows them to hold their shape. Consequently, making it difficult and possibly impossible to lie them flat.

PVC air hoses are typically stiffer than rubber hoses, making them more difficult to coil and uncoil. They tend to kink which is not desirable, and they easily become inflexible in cold weather conditions.

PVC air hoses are often distributed for free with air compressors, but because of these points, they may be difficult to work with, which is why many DIYers will upgrade their air hose to one of the following materials.

Here’s an example of a PVC air hose readily available on Amazon!

PVC Air Hose Advantages

• Affordable

PVC Air Hose Disadvantages

• Stiff
• Struggle to retain flexibility in cold weather
• Tend to kink

Rubber Air Hose

Rubber air hoses are typically the most common and readily available air hoses on the market. They consist of synthetic rubber which is reinforced with either braided or spiraled yarn. These types of hoses are very durable, rarely leak, and if they do, it’s generally easy to fix.

Rubber hoses do not kink and coil so easily, which makes them very easy to work with, even when the ambient temperature is cold. Rubber hoses are typically more expensive than other types of air hoses and tend to collect a lot of direct when being dragged across the floor due to their tackiness.

Here’s an example of a rubber air hose readily available on Amazon!

Rubber Air Hose Advantages

• Do not kink or coil easily
• Durable
• Rarely leak

Rubber Air Hose Disadvantages

• Heavy
• More expensive than other types of hose
• Tacky materials – therefore, collect dirt

Polyurethane Air Hose

Polyurethane air hoses are often confused with PVC air hoses due to their similar appearance. The key difference between the two is that Polyurethane performs far better than PVC.

Polyurethane air hoses are lighter and more flexible than PVC, and they have a very smooth outer layer that allows them to glide across surfaces with ease. Polyurethane hoses are not as flexible as rubber hoses, which makes them susceptible to kinking. Along with this, they also have a relatively high cost among air compressor hoses.

Their qualities make them an ideal choice for working with pneumatic framing or roofing nailers, to allow both freedom of movement and weight distribution.

Here’s an example of a polyurethane air hose readily available on Amazon!

Polyurethane Air Hose Advantages

• Flexible
• Lightweight
• Smooth outer layer – ease of transportation across surfaces

Polyurethane Air Hose Disadvantages

• Not as durable as rubber
• High cost
• Likely to kink

Hybrid Air Hose

Hybrid hoses are a combination of rubber, polyurethane, and PVC. This powerful blend gives them qualities that are similar to rubber but at a lighter weight, essentially making hybrid hoses a lot easier to work with.

Hybrid hoses are very durable, lightweight, and flexible, making them perfect for all types of tasks, from being used with ladders to being used in your garage. Though hybrid hoses aren’t as tacky as rubber, and so, they don’t collect as much dirt, they are more likely to kink after extended periods of use.

Here’s an example of a hybrid air hose readily available on Amazon!

Hybrid Air Hose Advantages

• Flexible
• Lightweight
• Not tacky
• Perfect for all types of tasks

Hybrid Air Hose Disadvantages

• Likely to kink after extended periods of usage

Hose Selection Considerations

Now you have an idea of the different materials available for air hoses, I want to switch attention to the other considerations you must factor in when selecting the right air hose for you. These include:

• Coiling Capabilities
• Connections
• Hose Dimensions
• Kink Resistance
• Pressure Rating
• Temperature Compatibility

Coiling Capabilities

Air compressor hoses either coil in a standard or recoil method. Standard hoses lie flat with no coils or bends, which makes them easy to unroll and stretch flat for maximum length or for storage.

Recoil hoses are ideal for working around a garage or workshop as they have small twists in their hoses, which cause them to recoil backward when the user lets go. Standard hoses can cause tripping hazards but are the ideal choice when operating a nailer because they have a longer maximum length.

Connections

Air compressor hoses typically have threaded ends to allow users to attach quick-release connectors to them, allowing you to switch between different power tools with ease.

You must take consideration into the right-sized quick-release connector for your tools. They are generally available in 1/8″ 1/4″ and 1/2″ sizes and as aluminum or brass. Brass connectors offer better resistance to corrosion and generally are known for more air-tight connections.

Hose Dimensions

First of all, the diameter of the hoses is important to decide how much air the hose is capable of delivering. Hoses range from around 1/4″ to 1/2″ and the right one will typically depend on the size of the air compressor. The most common size air hose is a 3/8″ hose.

Air compressors with high CFM outputs (cubic feet per minute) should use a larger diameter hose while air compressors with low CFM outputs should use a smaller diameter hose. For more information on CFM, visit our guide here!

The hose length is also important in determining which applications the hose can be used for, and how much pressure it will be capable of handling. Most air hoses range from around 5 feet to 60 feet.

If you require a hose for framing, roofing, painting, or other projects that require you to be a distance from your air compressor, then you will need a lengthier air hose. But, you must be aware that the longer the hose, the greater the pressure drop.

Shorter hoses are better suited to applications like filling truck tires or any other applications that demand higher pressures with sustained use.

Kink Resistance

Air compressor hoses, just like garden hoses, are liable to twisting and kinking when pulled or uncoiled. This can cause a delay in the airflow going through the hose, and may even lead to a burst at the kink if not dealt with.

Rubber hoses resist kinking better than any other type of hose. PVC has the worst of the hoses presented in this article, while hybrid and polyurethane offer good resistance to kinking.

Pressure Rating

Each and every air compressor hose will have a maximum pressure rating, indicating the amount of pressure, PSI (pounds per square inch), the air hose can withstand before breaking.

Typically, manufacturers will recommend an operating pressure for the hose as well as the burst pressure which is the maximum pressure the hose can withstand before bursting. Keep in mind, hoses with higher pressure ratings can handle tougher jobs like inflating truck tires.

Temperature Compatibility

An air compressor’s ability to resist changes in its flexibility typically depends on the different temperatures it’s exposed to. PVC struggle in colder temperatures and become less flexible, making them harder to work with.

In contrast, rubber hoses maintain their flexibility in temperatures that reach well below freezing. Polyurethane and hybrid hoses also are able to retain their flexibility in colder temperatures.

Frequently Asked Questions

If you’re wondering how to plumb an air compressor setup, visit our guide!

If you have any questions about PVC, rubber, polyurethane, or hybrid hoses, please leave a comment below, with a photo if applicable, so that someone can help you!

If you are like most people, you have probably heard the term “ten-point buck” but may not know exactly what it refers to.

In this post, we’ll explore the origins and definition of the term “ten-point buck.” We’ll also provide some tips on how to identify one if you happen to come across one while hunting. Stay tuned!

WHAT DO POINTS ON A BUCK MEAN IN HUNTING?

When discussing “points” in hunting, they are referring to the tips of each piece that is over an inch long.

You may hear everything from spikes (one point), two points, or six-point – ten points being even bigger than those smaller ones! But what does it all mean? It means using the points as a benchmark to describe the quality of the deer.

The anatomy of a Whitetail’s antlers is made up of the following:

• Burr or pedicle
• Brow tine
• Main beam
• Non-typicals

The classification and scoring of a Whitetail’s antlers are done by using the more common Boone and Crockett method. This method uses a combination of letters and numbers, more specifically the letters “H” and “G” and numbers 1 to 8.

Gs – These are used to name the normal antler points on a buck. G1 refers to the brow tine on a Whitetail as that is the first point, then G2 for the next point, and so on. It is important to note that the point on the main beam of a buck is not assigned the letter G although it is considered a point.

Hs – The H is used to measure the circumference of the antlers on a Whitetail. There are only four H measuring areas on a Whitetail’s antlers and regardless of the number of points it has, there will only be four Hs.

WHAT IS A 10-POINT BUCK?

As we stated above, in the Boone and Crockett method of scoring, a 10-point buck is simply a deer with 5 points on each side of its rack. These points can be any size, as long as they are over an inch long.

HOW OLD IS A 10-POINT BUCK?

The age of a 10-point buck can vary. If the deer is a yearling, it will likely have 8 or 9 points. A 2.5-year-old deer will typically have 10 points, and a 3.5-year-old deer will have 11 or 12 points. bucks typically reach their full antler potential at 4.5 years old, at which point they will have the potential to grow up to 15 points.

(For more on the best spring air rifles, see this post)

IS A 10-POINT DEER GOOD?

The answer to this question is subjective. Some hunters prefer to hunt bucks with large antlers, while others are more interested in the meat. Ultimately, it’s up to the individual hunter to decide what they consider to be a “good” deer.

How Big Is a 10-Point Buck?

The size of a 10-point buck can vary depending on the age and health of the deer. A yearling buck is typically around 3 feet tall at the shoulder, while an adult buck can be up to 4.5 feet tall. An adult buck will also weigh more than a yearling, with males averaging between 150 and 250 pounds.

HOW TO SEE A TEN-POINT BUCK?

Although ten-point bucks can be found in many parts of the United States, they are most commonly seen in the Midwest and southeastern states. If you’re hoping to catch a glimpse of one of these deer, your best bet is to head to a state like Illinois, Indiana, Iowa, Ohio, or Pennsylvania during the fall hunting season.

(How Long Do Squirrels Live? See this post for more)

TIPS FOR IDENTIFYING A 10-POINT BUCK

Now that you know what a 10-point buck is, you’re probably wondering how you can identify one if you come across one while hunting. Here are a few tips:

Look for a deer with ten points on its antlers. This is the most obvious way to identify a ten-point buck.

Measure the length of the deer’s antlers. If the antlers are at least ten inches long, you may be looking at a ten-point buck.

Check the size of the points. If the points are large and evenly spaced, you may be looking at a ten-point buck.

Look for other signs of a ten-point buck. These include large body sizes, thick necks, and heavy antlers.

Conclusion

To sum up, if you do come across a 10-point buck, be sure to take the time to identify it properly before taking a shot. Happy hunting!

Being adopted by a major military is the dream for every firearm manufacture.

But government procurement is a messy business and raises the question…Did the US Army make the right decision by choosing the Sig Sauer P320 as its new sidearm?

And just because they chose it…does the P320 make sense for you?

We’ll cover everything about the P320 in our review…from features to accuracy, reliability, ergonomics, upgrades, and pricing. By the end, you’ll know if the P320 is right for you or if the Army is stuck with a dud.

And now complete with a hands-on video review:

If that helped, please subscribe to our YouTube channel since we’re adding new videos every week!

Striker vs Hammer

Times are changing and the striker fired polymer king Glock, is being given a run for its money by Sig Sauer.

Normally known for its double action, single action hammer fired pistols, Sig Sauer is the gold standard for semi-auto handguns.

Their entry into the striker fired market is the p320, a welcomed sight in a stagnating market and a very real replacement for Glock pistols for CCW and general shooting.

Not sure about gun actions? Check out our Single/Double Action vs Striker Fired article.

Why would Sig want to make a striker fired gun?

Well, striker fired guns have a lot of advantages that people love…a consistent trigger pull and increased internal safeties are the main reasons armed citizens, police agencies, and elite military units are switching to striker fired guns. The SEALS did it with the Glock 19.

The mechanisms that make up striker fired guns are also very easy to produce, assemble and easy for armorers to fix. All this makes striker guns cheaper than traditional guns.

This is where the Sig Sauer P320 comes in.

The major difference between the p320 and every other double stack pistol Sig Sauer has ever made is that others use hammers and the P320 uses a striker.

It offers the quality and reliability of Sig Sauer, with a tried and true striker system and ingenious features that make it a novel gun.

In a world of “innovative” guns, this truly is an innovated design and a step in the right direction for the future of pistols.

General Opinion and Background

The model tested for review was my personal Nitron carry in 9mm.

There has been a total of about 1,700 rounds of FMJ plinking and training ammo through it and about 250 defensive rounds through the bore. I would feel comfortable saying it has 2000 rounds total.

The best 9mm ammo for self-defense and plinking.

The only stoppages have been ammo related, all with steel cased ammo, including a squib load.

My overall impression is that this is a good pistol when compared to a Glock, XD, or M&P but subpar compared to a legacy P-series Sig Sauer gun.

The construction of the gun is better than others in its class but isn’t as good as an H&K, legacy Sig Sauer, or any of the high end 1911’s.

This is very much a carry or light duty gun.

If you shoot competition and can’t afford better, this is a good gun, otherwise look elsewhere.

If you plan on actually shooting a gun a lot, get a better gun. Better in the sense it has better ergonomics, and is more specialized for what you need.

*Update January 2019* Sig has released their civilian version of the Army’s M17…the P320-M17. Check out our full review if that suits your fancy.

Features

Safety

The Sig Sauer p320 has the usual suspect of safety features including firing pin, trigger bar, and others that make the gun just as safe as other pistols in the Sig line.

What this pistol does have that no other striker fired gun does…is a single piece trigger.

The trigger pack inside the gun is designed to have a one-piece trigger instead of the widespread two-piece hinged trigger of Glock and M&P design that houses a safety feature to control the striker. The safeties of this gun are all truly passive and operate without input from the shooter.

This makes the trigger very smooth, consistent and can be had in either a standard, short reach or small bladed design.

Fire Control Unit & Caliber X-Change

One of the coolest features of this gun is what part constitutes the “gun.”

As far as the ATF is concerned the “gun” is the part that has the serial number on it. That means everything else is just a part.

Here’s what the serialized P320 looks like…

The steel fire control unit inside the P320…

The slide, and more importantly, the grip frame, are not serialized. You can shoot all the common calibers out of this weapon by just changing slides and mags. You can also re-size the gun to your hand by having the entire grip changed, not just a few panels.

Sig calls them Caliber X-Change kits.

Sig offers kits to change sizes, Full Size, Compact, and Subcompact and caliber change kits for .380acp, 9mm, .40s&w, and .357 Sig. The kits include the new slide, grip module, and proper magazine for the caliber and grip size.

It should be noted that while Sig has said that .45 ACP kits are “coming soon” they have been “coming soon” for about 2 years, so maybe not as soon as it sounds. Currently, if your P320 is in .45 ACP you cannot change it to ANY other caliber. Likewise, if your P320 isn’t in .45 ACP, you cannot change it to .45 ACP.

This system works well but is a dumb way to go about it. To convert a Glock, for example, you choose from the calibers that your gun can fit and need a new barrel and a magazine. You can save several hundred dollars over buying a new weapon with this system.

The only annoying thing is the price…Caliber X-Change kits are around $400.

You only save $150 or so when you buy a Caliber X-Change kit. You might as well buy a new gun if you want a different size or different caliber.

Especially if you factor in the cost of extra magazines. The guns come with two, the x-change kits only have one.

Buy the new gun, thank us later.

Grip Frames

Sharing both grip frames and magazines with the P250 the P320 has the ability to tailor the size of the gun and the circumference of the grip width, with just the change of the plastic grip frame.

The serialized part of the gun the steel fire control unit mentioned above. This means you can buy grip frames online and have them shipped to your house, no FFL required.

This is perfect for people who want different grip sizes or want a pro to stipple their grip since now you can just send the hunk of plastic through the regular mail. And if they/you mess up…you’re only out $45.

Integrated Red Dot

Sig Sauer joins others with a cutout for a red dot sight available from the factory.

The twist is that theirs comes with a red dot sight installed as well. The “RX’ model comes with Sig’s own Romeo 1 red dot.

While not as proven as other red dot sights, having shot with one I’d have no problem carrying one or stacking it up next to a Leupold or Trijicon.

Take Down

The takedown of this pistol is easy and can be done without pulling the trigger. All you do is lock the slide back, rotate the takedown lever clockwise and then slide off the upper half the gun.

I have noticed that it is easier to put the slide back on with an empty magazine inserted because it lifts the slide lock and makes it easier to move the slide rearward and rotate the takedown pin counterclockwise.

Accuracy & Reliability

The gun is accurate enough to be used in a competition and will easily outshoot most shooters.

The gun functions and fires all hollow point and plinking ammo you can feed through it into one ragged hole if you do your part.

However, there are a few things to note about the accuracy of this gun.

The trigger blade is large and deeply curved. Until you get used to it the trigger can be a serious hindrance to accuracy.

The trigger pull is consistent with no stacking and seems to be within the 6-7 lbs that a striker fired gun needs.

Stacking is where the trigger gets heavier as you pull it until it breaks, common on older pistol designs, especially double action triggers.

Finally, the grip panels are good and the overall width of the grip can be tailored by ordering one of several different available plastic frames.

Ergonomics

This gun feels very much like a Sig.

The high bore axis makes it feel a little like holding a ray gun but it is very comfortable in the hand.

The plastic frame feels warm even in cold weather and the grip panels feel almost like skateboard tape, but without the sand. It’s a subdued stippling that works better than it looks. I hate saying this but…the gun almost needs to be felt in hand and fired to appreciate it.

The slide serrations should be larger, I had trouble racking the slide with sweaty hands. Deep slide serrations like those found on the S&W M&P would be great here.

Truth be told, I have huge hands so this might be a slight bias but the P320 feels good in the hand…but I don’t like the mag release or the baseplate.

I had trouble in both bare and gloved hand with the mag dropping free for a reload. This is definitely a problem and if you carry the compact or subcompact models you might have the same problem.

This is because the magazine floorplate is a piece of the grip and if you have a meaty palm then you’ll prevent the magazine from dropping free. I never had any problems with the magazine jamming and not coming out, just an ergonomic problem with the gun in general.

The feeling of the pistol is hand feels wonky with a loaded magazine, once you put rounds in the gun it handles like a dream, despite the high bore axis.

I don’t use the slide lock to run the gun but it is easy to use if you’re inclined.

The magazines when I first got them were very, very stiff and had to be downloaded by 2. The fix was for the magazines needed to be left loaded for two weeks, then you can load them to capacity.

The trigger is nothing special…it’s a decent striker fired trigger without stacking and decent weight.

I have large fingers but many report the trigger blade being too wide and uncomfortable to shoot. I didn’t find any problems while shooting, but the ladies who shot my gun had to use almost their entire finger.

Quality & Durability

The Sig P320 is an entry-level Sig gun. That doesn’t mean that it is low quality.

Sig Sauer makes by far the best polymer framed guns in the world and by far some of the most accurate and dependable pistols. You must accept the fact though…the grip frame is made to be almost disposable.

This is important because the plastic of the 320 isn’t as resilient as Glocks or M&Ps.

All the models offer Picatinny rails that are squared away under the barrel, in front of the trigger guard for mounting a light or laser. The whole gun, finish included just seems more susceptible to dings, and scratches…more so than any other gun I’ve ever used.

The finish on the gun is said to be the same as on other guns, but my Sig P250, the predecessor of the P320, seems infinitely more durable with regards to finish. This, of course, doesn’t hurt the reliability of the gun, just affects the quality and long-term appearance.

I live in South Florida, and in December the average temperature is still around 80 degrees with 70% or so humidity.

Guns rust literally on store shelves here, but the Sig P320 doesn’t. The first week I got this pistol I took it kayaking and I accidentally dropped the whole pistol into a pool of salt water.

I did nothing more than field strip it and reassemble it wet. Never had a problem with rust or reliability.

Applications

Guns obviously have more than one use but a .50 BMG rifle is bad for plinking just like a .22 LR pistol is bad for self-defense.

The Sig Sauer P320 is good for many things but there are a few models that are better suited than others.

The RX Carry is probably the most capable of the bunch. It comes with a red dot sight mounted on the slide. The carry model, in general, is a great size, it’s plenty big enough to use for serious work but small enough to conceal.

The Tacops models are a good model for duty use if you are an officer or security guard that can choose their own weapon. The factory included 21 rounds magazines are only useful for open carry or for competition/range use.

Aftermarket Support

Currently there the Sig P320 lags behind the classic Sig guns in regards for professional quality gear but it is being embraced by and large by consumer gear manufacturers.

If more agencies and large Security firms adopt the Sig P320 we might see a rise in the duty gear selection but only time will tell.

Holsters

Nearly every custom Kydex maker has holsters for this gun so for concealed carry or for range use you should be fine. Including holsters for weapon lights, red dot sights, and suppressor height sights.

If you’re an officer or security guard that can choose their own weapon this is a great pistol but it can be difficult to find retention holsters.

There are the typical level 2 and level 3 drop leg and duty holsters available from the usual suspects. However, if you need a holster for plainclothes police or detective work you’re better off with a shoulder holster than looking for a concealable holster with retention.

Magazines

The biggest downside of the Sig Sauer p320 is the premium price of magazines.

That goes for the full capacity and the state compliant models with limited round counts.

Sig Sauer does offer extended 21 round magazines to the tune of $58. Sig Sauer has also been plagued with high shipping costs and long wait times due to extreme order volume. Order from a retailer if you can find a deal or need the mags quick.

The magazines currently used are the same design from the p250 and they haven’t come down in price so I don’t believe they’ll come down in price anytime soon. Aftermarket magazines aren’t available but they could come depending on the long-term success, and honestly the competition use, of this pistol.

Weapon Light

No defensive gun is complete without a good light mounted on it, for the P320 (and most other guns) the Streamlight TLR-7 is an outstanding choice.

Delivering high lumens, great durability, and coming in at a decent price – it’s a must-have.

Parts & Upgrades

Sights aside, there aren’t many parts available for the P320 yet.

Sig Sauer offers replacement spring kits and grip modules as well as the previously mentioned caliber X-change kits. The offer a thin-bladed trigger that is available for purchase, it’s not an upgraded trigger, just a different blade.

The only “big” upgrade currently offered is the Apex Trigger kit available. I haven’t used the trigger myself so I can’t comment on its use but it is a completely flat faced trigger that looks like a competition upgrade and is getting good reports thus far.

Sig Sauer is also offering a grip module that has a built-in laser. It looks like an overgrown S&W Bodyguard .380 and is very expensive. You also lose the ability to mount a light and need a custom holster.

I’d steer clear, at least until the part has been proven in the field

How To Find Arrowheads In The Woods: The Ultimate Arrowhead Hunting Guide

Since I started hunting arrowheads a few years ago, I’ve had a lot of people ask where the best places to hunt for arrowheads are. And if you’re an arrowhead hunter yourself, you know that a single perfect answer to that question just doesn’t exist.

But since many of the friends that ask me this question enjoy spending a lot of time out in the woods, I thought I would focus on that. And explain to them how they can take part in the fun I was having in hunting for arrowheads, even in the woods!

For information on learning the value of your arrowheads, check out my post, The True Value Of Arrowheads: What Are They Worth To You?

For tips on hunting arrowheads, keep reading!

Introduction

I created a list of tips for these folks to help answer their question…as well as to share with you, fellow arrowhead hunters. So keep reading, and I hope you find some tips that are useful on your next arrowhead hunting trip.

Once you begin finding arrowheads, the next fun part is identifying them! If you need help identifying Indian arrowheads, you might find my post, American Indian Arrowhead Identification: A Resource Guide helpful for that phase of arrowhead collecting.

Once you find your arrowheads, you’ll want to display them with pride! Check out my post of some of the Best Arrowhead Display Cases.

Recommended Reading

How To Find Arrowheads In The Woods

Like I mentioned earlier, the answer isn’t necessarily all that straight forward. I promise that you’re not going to be successful at hunting arrowheads if all you do is randomly walk into the woods and start looking at the ground. You might get lucky, but chances are you won’t find a single arrowhead point.

Get To Know The People And How They Lived

The first thing about hunting arrowheads anywhere, whether it’s in the woods, in a creek or in a field, is knowing what to look for. You want to really get to know where the ancient people who left the arrowheads behind would have spent time or gathered together. Get to know where and how these people lived, hunted and traveled, and you’ll be a thousand miles ahead of most arrowhead hunters.

Remember The Ever Changing Landscape

The other thing to remember is that the landscape 500, 1000 or even 5000 years ago was significantly different than it is now. The pond, lake or creek you see today very well could have been a dry meadow or seasonal creek 1000 years ago. And areas that are now dry, could have easily been shallow ponds, marshes or even the bottom of a massive lake.

So as you walk out into the woods to look for arrowheads, keep these following tips and suggestions in mind:

Look For Evidence of Indian Camps

Whether you’re walking in the deepest part of the woods or simply following a well used trail, keep your eyes open for evidence of old Indian camps. How do you find Indian Camps? Think about areas that you would be useful to you if you were to set up a camp today. Things that would be important for a camp are natural shelter, like bluff overhangs, sources of water such as springs could be a great indications of a possible Indian camps being near by.

Many Indian camps will be located near a water source, such as a creek, river or spring. Just like modern civilizations, ancient peoples relied heavily upon water. They would have almost always camped very close to a source of fresh water. Their survival depended on it.

Indian camps would have been close to water, but they wouldn’t have necessarily been right on the water. Look for high areas that are away from the water a bit, but more importantly, are up out of the floodplain, such as a bluff or a knoll.

Hunting Arrowheads In Creeks, Rivers and Streams

When thinking about tips on how to hunt arrowheads in the woods, one of the best tips I can give you is to find a creek or river and start your search there. For me, it all starts with a water source. Even the fields I hunt for arrowheads in must always be near some type of water source, such as a creek, stream or river.

Remember that not all streams, creeks and rivers were flowing the same way 1000 or more years ago. Always keep that in mind. But if you’re certain you’ve found a creek or river that was present in ancient times, it should prove to be an excellent place to begin your hunt for arrowheads.

Creek Walking For Arrowheads: What Time Of Year Is Best?

Time your arrowhead hunting trip during the part of year when water levels are at their lowest. This is typically during the summer months. Creeks and rivers with low water levels will expose much more of the gravel bars and creek beds, which is where the arrowheads can be found. Also look in the eroded sides of the creeks that would normally be covered with water.

Arrowheads are made out of stone, so they tend to move along the bottom of the river just like other rocks and gravel. Spend time looking for arrowheads in the gravel bars and other rocky areas. Look along the water line as well as just inside the water line. Moving water will wash away the silt and other debris making it easier to see the arrowheads.

Arrowheads tend to get caught between other rocks of the same size or larger as they are pushed along by the water, pinning it in place.

Hunting Arrowheads Where Two or More Rivers or Creeks Join

If you’re just starting hunting for arrowheads in the woods, one of the best tips you could ever receive is to look for areas where 2 or more creeks, rivers or streams come together. Creek walking for arrowheads is one of the best ways to find arrowheads, and this type of scenario is my absolute favorite location to hunt for arrowheads.

Not only are these areas a hot spot for Indian camps, but they were popular locations for other ancient hunting activities. This is where you can find many other artifacts in addition to arrowheads.

If you’re able to locate where two or more larger sized rivers come together, then you’ll probably find evidence of Indian camps nearby. In ancient times, these areas were teaming with activity. People would not have only camped in these areas, but they would have lived in these locations for long periods of time. Because of this, these areas are not only excellent for hunting arrowheads, but are also where to find ancient stone and pottery artifacts.

If you find where two or more smaller creeks or streams come together, you’ll probably also find a lot of evidence of high animal traffic. Today, these areas are excellent for finding deer and other wild game to hunt. The same would also hold true in ancient times.

Many arrows and spears were shot or thrown at deer and other game while they approached the water. Many of these arrows and spears missed their target, only to be lost in the creek or tall grass. Spend time looking for these lost arrowheads in the eroded sides of the creek as well as on the bottom creek bed and gravel bars.

Tips For Hunting Arrowheads In The Woods

Below are some tips you can use to be more successful at finding arrowheads on your next trip out.

How To Find Arrowheads in Creeks and Streams

Like I mentioned, creek walking for arrowheads is a great way to find them, and gravel bars can be great places to spend your time searching. Here are a few things to keep in mind when hunting arrowheads on gravel bars in streams, creeks and rivers and what your levels of success might be. These are not concrete rules, but rules of thumb.

Sandy Bottom: very rare to find arrowheads. Artifacts you may find are pottery shards and possibly flint.

Pea Gravel: Higher rate for finding small arrowheads/ birdpoints.

Small gravel: Higher chance of finding small arrowheads/ birdpoints and other arrowheads that are about the same size as the gravel.

Medium to Large Gravel: Any size arrowhead can be found in this kind of creek or river bottom.

How To Find Ancient Creeks

Use Google maps to your advantage. Google maps can play a very helpful role when researching good areas for looking for arrowheads in the woods.

Use the topographical option on Google maps to investigate where rivers and streams may have traveled through in the past. You may find that two streams converged in a much different location than where they currently join.

Do your research before you head out and you will find arrowheads and other artifacts!

Now that you know how to find arrowheads in the woods, get out there and start looking! Leave a comment below and share any other tips you might have.

Final Thoughts

If you’ve taken the information in this post and are still unable to find the elusive arrowhead. I’ve located a few places online that sell authentic Indian arrowheads. You can find these items on my post, Where To Find Indian Arrowheads For Sale. However, the best thing you can do is continue to educate yourself on arrowhead hunting.

Expert Knowlege!

The experts have given us everything we need to know to successfully find arrowheads! All that knowledge and experience is written inside the pages of this book! Take advantage of it! And go find those relics!

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Share With Other Rockhounds!

When the .300 PRC (Precision Rifle Cartridge) was announced, most shooters scoffed: “Just what we need—another .30-caliber magnum.” It seemed like the proverbial answer to an unasked question.

Then, savvy shooters took a closer look and were impressed. They gave it a try and became even more impressed.

Within three short years, the .300 PRC became the primary .30-caliber magnum challenger to the worldwide king of the .300s: the .300 Winchester Magnum. That’s a meteoric rise in prominence, rivaled only by its own smaller sibling: the 6.5 PRC.

Now that we have both “The King of .300s” and this new high-octane modern challenger, the question must be asked: Which is better?

As a philosopher might say, “The answer is very simple, yet also very complex.” Here’s the short version: Which one is better for you depends…on you.

Each .30-caliber magnum cartridge has advantages and disadvantages. Your needs as a shooter and hunter will dictate which is best—for you. But I suspect you already knew that. So, without further ado, let’s dive into the pros and cons.

Because it’s the veteran, let’s accord the .300 Win. Mag. the respect it deserves and address it first.

.300 Win. Mag. Pros

The .300 Win. Mag. is the worldwide dominant .30-caliber magnum. It’s cleanly taken every big-game animal that walks American soil and probably every legal species of critter that walks the earth—anywhere. That’s including terrorists at some pretty jaw-dropping distances, in the hands of our sniper boys and their British pals.

Although its stubby neck and belted behind are outdated design characteristics that theoretically are not optimal for accuracy, the .300 Win. Mag. has always confounded its skeptics and shot better than it has any right to.

Powder-capacity-to-bore-diameter ratio is on the top side of optimal, meaning it’s on the cusp of being overbored without actually being overbored. As a result, it’s surprisingly efficient, particularly with heavy, aerodynamic bullets in the 200-grain weight range. As a lovely side benefit, such bullets absolutely wallop big game.

On the subject of bullets, you can get factory ammo loaded with a broad spectrum of different projectiles. Light and fast, heavy and tough, heavy and sleek and super-efficient, you name it. It’s easy to find a load tailored perfectly for your purposes, whether that purpose is shooting whitetails way off across a beanfield or moose in an alder thicket or steel targets a half-mile away.

Also, handloading data is widely available and exhaustive in scope. If our selection of factory ammo is broad, handloading potential is truly vast. Pick any bullet from 110 to 250 grains and have at it. Rifling twist rates apply.

Every rifle manufacturer offers myriad models chambered in .300 Win. Mag., so you can be really picky when selecting just the right rifle. Just as important, magazines—whether internal or detachable types—have all the wrinkles ironed out of them. Most .300 Win. Mag. rifles easily contain the advertised number of cartridges and feed them smoothly and reliably.

Because the .300 Win. Mag. is so widely respected and available around the world, it’s an excellent option for travelers—domestic and international—because even if your baggage gets separated in transit and lost, as long as your rifle arrives, you can always find ammo in a local shop.

The combined result of all these advantages stacked up is one of—if not the—best practical choices for hunting any non-dangerous game, anywhere around the world.

.300 Win. Mag. Cons

Okay. Here we go. The grand old king of the .30s does have some downsides, too. Mostly, it’s in the fact that many rifles chambered for it have quite loose chamber tolerances. In such, the demons contained in the short neck and belted case design emerge. They can wreak havoc with accuracy.

An old but proven cartridge design rule recommends that the neck of a cartridge be at least one caliber long, meaning that for a .30-caliber cartridge, the neck should be at least three tenths of an inch long. Designers curtailed the neck of the .300 Win. Mag., gambling that it would prove sufficient and the propellant capacity gained by pushing the shoulder of the cartridge as far forward as possible would pay off.

When manufacturing ammo, whether at the handloading bench or on the factory assembly line, it’s harder to hold tight tolerances when the neck is short. Bullet concentricity is at risk. Neck tension is less consistent. And so forth.

The belts on traditional magnum cases were originally designed to give the long, tapered cartridges of yore a predictable surface to headspace against. Holland & Holland’s .375 H&H and Super Thirty have a lot of body taper and shallow shoulders. This enables cartridges to feed like grease on glass and to extract easily and reliably—particularly important characteristics in cartridges commonly used on dangerous game in Africa and India. Easy extraction was a big deal when cordite propellant was the go-to bullet-pushing chemical of the day; it tended to exhibit pressure spikes in tropical weather conditions. Those cartridges needed the belt.

Our .300 Win. Mag., however, doesn’t need the belt. On it, the belt is just a holdover from the parent case. Had designers owned a functioning crystal ball, perhaps they would have seen fit to lathe-turn the belt off of their prototype .300 Win. Mag. cases, which would have created a really optimal cartridge case shape for the embryonic new round.

Here’s the important takeaway, folks. The belt is outdated, yes. It’s useless, yes. But the belt harms absolutely nothing at all. Performance doesn’t suffer, reliability doesn’t suffer, nothing. So quit griping about the belt.

.300 PRC Pros

Ah…here we go. This is the Ferrari of rifle cartridges. Introduced in 2018, the .300 PRC utilizes a .375 Ruger case necked down to hold .30-caliber bullets. This is a broad-based, non-belted, standard-length (.30-06 length) case originally derived from the .404 Jeffery.

Geometrically, the .300 PRC case is as nearly perfect as mankind and computers can achieve. Neck length is ideal. Shoulder angle is ideal. There’s no belt around the case head. There’s little efficiency-robbing taper to the body.

“Against all odds,” naysayers grudgingly admit, “the .300 PRC has a toehold.”

“Thanks to an ultimate combination of refined characteristics,” acolytes claim, “the .300 PRC is rapidly earning the recognition it deserves.”

Both are right.

When the .300 PRC launched, we already had the .300 H&H, the .300 Win. Mag., the .300 WSM, the .300 RUM, the .300 RSAUM, the .300 Norma, the .300 Weatherby, the .30-378 Weatherby, the .300 RCM…my word, more .30-caliber magnums than a beaver could shake a stick at.

However, not one of this long list of cartridges stacks every characteristic in the “positive” column and none in the “negative.” Many have outdated case design features. Some are overbored. Some are underpowered. Some are efficient, but not configured to shoot high-ballistic-coefficient (BC) bullets with best-in-class aerodynamics.

There are very few cartridges about which one can say, “It has it all.” The .300 PRC is one. The few disadvantages associated with it—and, yes, there are some—have nothing to do with design or performance and everything to do with distribution and availability. But I’ll get to that soon enough.

Let’s start with the most important characteristics and work down. Foremost, at least in this man’s opinion, is the fact that from the ground up the .300 PRC was engineered to provide optimal performance with long, heavy-for-caliber, high-BC bullets.

Hornady’s cartridge gurus (they’ve dreamt up and introduced the three most successful new cartridges of the 21st century) gave the .300 PRC a generous “head height.” Head height is the distance between the cartridge case mouth and the end of the magazine. It dictates how much bullet can stick out of the end of the cartridge case and still allow the whole cartridge to fit into a rifle magazine.

Traditionally, powder capacity was valued more than head height, so bullets were given short, blunt ogives (the curve from the tip of the bullet to full diameter) and seated deep into the case. Cartridge shoulders were positioned far forward so that the case would hold as much propellant as possible. That bullet bases would protrude way down into the propellant chamber was accepted as a necessary evil.

Not necessary, claimed the .300 PRC’s architects.

Case in point (if you’ll forgive the horrible pun): The thunderous .300 RUM and the .300 PRC have nearly identical overall cartridge lengths. Both require true long rifle actions. However, the shoulder on the RUM is much farther from the cartridge base. The RUM holds considerably more powder, yet the .300 PRC will shoot flatter at long range.

How? Because Hornady’s engineers optimized the efficiency of the internal combustion chamber and gave the cartridge plenty of head height. You can comfortably load .300 PRC cartridges with extremely sleek, aerodynamic bullets that have long, fine-entry noses. In the .300 PRC, bullet bases don’t protrude down into powder capacity. Projectiles start slower than the blunter bullets from the .300 RUM but hold their speed better and quickly overtake them. At extreme range, there’s just no contest.

But we’re not here to compare the .300 PRC with the .300 RUM. So how does it stack up to the .300 Win. Mag.? I love the old Winchester cartridge, so it hurts my feelings a little to say this, but the .300 PRC walks all over it, ballistically.

Why? Because the .300 PRC shoots those long, high-BC bullets that won’t fit and feed from .300 Win. Mag. magazines, and it starts them nearly as fast as the .300 Win. Mag. shoots normal bullets.

In addition to cartridge head height optimal for modern, extreme-BC bullets, the .300 PRC features a chamber spec’d with very tight tolerances. You’ll rarely, if ever, see a .300 PRC rifle that won’t shoot due to a sloppy chamber. Plus, the chamber throat and rifling leade areas are engineered for ideal compatibility with those sleek-nosed, high-BC bullets we’re making such a big deal about.

Crucially important in making all these cutting-edge puzzle pieces fit together is fast rifling. Most .300 PRC rifles have a twist rate of 1 turn in 9 inches or faster; some are as fast as 1:8. Either will properly stabilize most of today’s extreme-range superbullets.

The .300 Win. Mag. (and basically all the other .30-caliber magnums) have a 1:10 twist rate that will not adequately stabilize today’s best long-range projectiles.

Let’s move on. In the world of internal combustion, the .300 PRC has a much different chamber shape than the .300 Win. Mag. It contains more gunpowder, so one might think it crosses the cusp into overbore territory.

Nope. Not quite. Thanks to the way it holds that propellant in a broader, slightly shorter cylindrical shape, it burns a tad more efficiently than the .300 Win. Mag. When ignited from one end, a fatter, shorter column of powder burns more instantly and efficiently than a long, skinny column.

Before listing the .300 PRC’s disadvantages, let’s take a look at a ballistic comparison between it and the .300 Win. Mag.

I’ve crunched ballistics using the best high-BC factory loads listed on Hornady’s website.

In the .300 Win. Mag., the 200-grain ELD-X projectile has a G1 BC of 0.597 and a G7 BC of 0.301—really pretty darned good. It’s rated to exit the muzzle at 2,850 fps. It is, candidly, a fantastic load.

In the .300 PRC, the 225-grain ELD Match bullet has a G1 BC of 0.777 and a G7 BC of .391. That’s nearly unearthly, and it doesn’t hold a candle to the extreme-BC projectiles handloaders like me get all giddy about, such as the 250-grain A-Tip.

But I digress. The 225-grain projectile is rated to exit the muzzle at 2,810 fps, just 40 fps slower than the .300 Win. Mag. bullet.

I’ve included a chart to display long-range performance out to 1,500 yards. The ballistics were calculated using standard sea-level atmospherics, a 200-yard zero, and a 10-mph full-value crosswind.

.300 PRC Cons

The .300 PRC’s disadvantages are minuscule and don’t reflect specifically on the cartridge, but they must be considered nonetheless.

Worst is the current very limited selection of factory-loaded ammunition. As I write this, only Hornady offers factory ammo—and just two loads. This is changing fast, and I predict that within a year we will see factory-loaded .300 PRC ammo from Federal, Barnes, Winchester, Browning, and others. Many rifle companies now list the .300 PRC in their top-five sellers, and ammo companies can’t ignore numbers like that.

For now, though, non-handloaders have their pick of…Hornady and Hornady. The good news is Hornady makes great ammo.

For handloaders, the world is their .300-PRC oyster. Dies and data are readily available, and the cartridge shoots well with darn near any combination you put in it.

I can’t even list limited rifle selection as a disadvantage. Not anymore. Most of the big rifle manufacturers and all of the boutique makers worth their salt offer several excellent models in .300 PRC.

How about recoil? Well, that’s subjective. Because the .300 PRC is usually loaded with heavy-for-caliber bullets, it does kick more than the average .300 Win. Mag. load. However, if you load them both with the same bullet weight, the difference is negligible. The way I see it, that extra recoil is symbolic of the enhanced performance you get by shooting those extreme-BC projectiles. But, yes, the .300 PRC does kick.

So Which Is Better?

As I mentioned in the beginning, in the final analysis, only you can decide which cartridge better fits your needs. I can give you a little guidance, though.

If you’re a practical sort, who values proven performance and ready availability, I suspect the .300 Win. Mag. is your cuppa tea.

If you like finessing the last iota of performance out of your shooting setup, and you handload, and you rarely shoot factory ammo anyway, you owe yourself a .300 PRC.

Here’s the good news. As much fun as it is to weigh every aspect and characteristic, however slight, and endlessly debate the merits of one over the other, in the end you can’t go wrong with either.

Hunting is a popular sport in the United States, and many people rely on hunting to provide them with food. If you’re interested in hunting, you may be wondering if Walmart sells hunting licenses.

The fact is: Many people are unaware that Walmart sells hunting licenses. As a major retailer, Walmart is well-positioned to provide hunting licenses to its customers. In this blog post, we will discuss the benefits of purchasing hunting licenses from Walmart. We will also look at the different types of hunting licenses available at Walmart. Finally, we will provide some tips for purchasing hunting licenses from Walmart.

Can You Get a Hunting License at Walmart?

Yes, Walmart does sell hunting licenses. You can purchase a license for many different types of games, including deer, elk, bear, and turkey. Buying your license online is easy and convenient – all you need is a computer and an internet connection. Plus, you’ll save 5% on your purchase when you buy your license online

What Do You Need for a Walmart Hunting License?

In order to purchase a hunting license from Walmart, you’ll need a few things. First, you’ll need to be at least 18 years old. Next, you’ll need a valid form of identification, such as a driver’s license or passport. Finally, you’ll need a credit or debit card to pay for your license. Once you have all of these things, you’re ready to purchase your license!

(Are raccoon rodents? See this post for more)

How Much Does a Hunting License Cost at Walmart?

The cost of a hunting license varies depending on the type of game you’re hunting and the state in which you reside. However, in general, licenses range from $19-$35. You can find more specific pricing information on the Walmart website.

Is There an Age Limit for Buying a Hunting License at Walmart?

Yes, there is an age limit for buying a hunting license at Walmart. You must be at least 18 years old to purchase a hunting license from Walmart. If you’re not yet 18, you can still hunt with a valid hunting license from another adult.

How Do I Get a Hunting License From Walmart?

The hunting license process at Walmart is easy and straightforward. Just tell an employee in the sporting goods department that you want one, and they’ll provide all the necessary forms for completing it.

You need to fill out some personal information like your name or birthday , select different types of hunting activities – uplands/woods, waterfowl season springs turkey ala duck decoying, etc., pay fees according to what kind(s) chosen plus taxes. 

After confirming your identity and collecting payment, the official will give you a tag to carry with you while hunting that has proof of hunting permission.

It’s important to know the laws in your state when hunting, so be sure you’re following them. The cost of a hunting license may vary depending on where and what type of animal it is for but most start around $12!

FAQs

Can You Hunt the Same Day After Buying a Walmart Hunting License?

Yes, you can usually hunt the same day after buying a hunting license from Walmart. However, it’s always a good idea to check the regulations in your state to be sure.

Is There a Limit on the Number of Hunting Licenses You Can Purchase From Walmart?

No, there is no limit on the number of hunting licenses you can purchase from Walmart. However, you can only purchase one license per person.

Do You Need a Hunting License to Buy a Gun at Walmart?

No, you do not need a hunting license to buy a gun at Walmart. However, you will need to pass a background check in order to purchase a firearm from Walmart.

What Are the Pros and Cons of Buying a Hunting License From Walmart?

There are both pros and cons to buying a hunting license from Walmart. Some of the pros include convenience, price, and selection. Some of the cons include limited customer service and restricted hours. Overall, the decision of whether or not to buy a hunting license from Walmart is up to the individual.

Does Walmart Sell Hunting Licenses With Permits and Endorsements?

Yes, Walmart sells hunting licenses with permits and endorsements. However, the cost of these licenses may be higher than the cost of a regular hunting license.

What Are Some Other Places That Sell Hunting Licenses?

In addition to Walmart, you can also purchase hunting licenses from sporting goods stores, outdoor retailers, and state wildlife agencies. You can also purchase hunting licenses online from some retailers.

Can You Get a Hunting and Fishing License Together at Walmart?

Yes, you can usually get a hunting and fishing license together at Walmart. However, the cost of these licenses may be higher than the cost of a regular hunting or fishing license.

Do You Need a New Walmart Hunting License Every Year?

In most cases, you will need to renew your Walmart hunting license every year. However, the rules for renewing a hunting license may vary depending on the state in which you live. Be sure to check the regulations in your state before purchasing a hunting license from Walmart.

Does Walmart Selling Hunting License Holders?

Yes, Walmart sells hunting license holders. These holders can be used to store and protect your hunting license while you are out in the field.

How to Find a Walmart With Hunting Licenses?

To find a Walmart that sells hunting licenses, you can use the Store locator on the Walmart website. Once you have found a store, you can call to confirm that they sell hunting licenses. You can also ask about the cost of hunting licenses and whether or not they sell other hunting supplies.

Conclusion

When it comes to hunting licenses, Walmart is a one-stop-shop. You can purchase licenses for many different types of games, including deer, elk, bear, and turkey. Buying your license online is easy and convenient – all you need is a computer and an internet connection.. So what are you waiting for? Get your hunting license today!

The new 300 PRC is getting rave reviews with the long range shooting crowd, but is it really a good choice for hunters?

If they’re not plugged into the long range shooting community, most hunters and shooters probably haven’t heard about the new 300 Precision Rifle Cartridge (300 PRC) Hornady officially released in 2018.

Hornady advertises that the cartridge was designed from the start to use heavy for caliber, extremely aerodynamic bullets that deliver excellent performance at long range. The cartridge has received a lot of hype recently, but do you really need one?

Ever since the .30-06 Springfield took the hunting world by storm at the beginning of the 20th Century, .30 caliber cartridges have been extremely popular among hunters and shooters in North America. Though the .30-06 was and is a great option for many uses, hunters and shooters looking for more power or better long range performance have flocked towards the various .30 caliber magnum cartridges for many decades.

The big gun and ammunition companies have responded to that demand in kind. Hunters these days now have a dizzying array of .30 caliber magnum cartridges to choose from like the .300 Winchester Magnum, .300 Weatherby Magnum, .30 Nosler, 300 WSM, .300 Norma Magnum, and the .300 Remington Ultra Magnum (among others).

For that reason, you can be forgiven for wondering why we need another .30 caliber magnum cartridge and what advantages the 300 PRC offers compared to those older cartridges.

Is the 300 PRC just a fad that people will forget about in a few years when the next big thing comes along? Does the 300 PRC provide enough benefits for hunters and shooters to justify making the switch over to the new cartridge?

In this article, I’m going to discuss the history as well as the strengths and weaknesses of the 300 Precision Rifle Cartridge in detail. I’ll also provide some information on how the 300 PRC stacks up next to the .300 Winchester Magnum so you can decide if it fits your needs as a hunter.

Before we get started, I have two administrative notes:

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Additionally, I recorded an entire podcast episode on this exact subject. If you’d rather listen than read, click the appropriate link below to listen to this episode on your preferred podcasting service.

Be sure to hit that “Subscribe” button in your podcast player!

300 PRC Podcast

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300 Precision Rifle Cartridge History

With the rise in popularity of extra long range shooting during the 21st Century, ballisticians at Hornady identified the need for a .30 caliber cartridge designed specifically for that sort of work. Existing cartridges like the .300 Win Mag were certainly capable of excellent long range performance, but there wasn’t a .30 caliber cartridge purpose built for that task.

In particular, the existing .30 caliber cartridges were not well suited for using extremely long, high BC bullets.

To accomplish that mission, designers at Hornady decided to think outside the box.

Instead of building a cartridge based on existing design constraints imposed by the various common action lengths (short action, standard/long action, etc.), they elected to just build a cartridge designed specifically to do what they wanted, then build the rifle around it.

So, they took a necked down .375 Ruger cartridge case and built the cartridge with a very long head height.

Head height is the amount of space available for the bullet outside the case while staying within SAAMI specifications for the cartridge. Put simply, more head height facilitates the use of very long, aerodynamic bullets.

We’ll discuss this more later, but to calculate head height, subtract the case length of the cartridge from the maximum overall length.

In fact, due in part to the fact that it has a long head height, the 300 PRC has a pretty long overall length. At 3.7″ long, it’s actually too big to fit in a standard length action rifle.

At the same time, the .375 Ruger was designed with the same .532″ case head diameter as the .375 H&H. However, unlike the .375 H&H (and cartridges like the 7mm Rem Mag and .300 Win Mag descended from it) the .375 Ruger is a beltless cartridge, so the actual body of the .375 Ruger case is larger in diameter than the .375 H&H.

This results in increased case capacity for the 300 PRC (and the 375 Ruger) cartridge while still working with a standard magnum bolt face.

Hornady formally rolled out their new 300 Precision Rile Cartridge in late 2018 and it made a big splash at the 2019 SHOT Show. The cartridge, along with 6.5 PRC (also descended from the .375 Ruger), received formal SAAMI approval in August of 2018.

300 PRC Ballistics

Typical 300 PRC ballistics are a 212gr bullet at 2,860fps (3,850 ft-lbs) or a 225gr bullet at 2,810fps (3,945 ft-lbs). Both loads use long, aerodynamic, heavy for caliber bullets that minimize bullet drop and wind drift at extended range. 300 PRC factory loads generally have a muzzle velocity similar to the .300 Win Mag, but with a heavier bullet with a higher BC.

With careful handloading, it’s possible achieve slightly higher velocities with the cartridge and/or utilize even heavier and more aerodynamic bullets.

Specifically, maximum handloads published by Hornady show a velocity of 2,875fps with a 220 grain ELD-X bullet and a velocity of 2,700fps with a 250 grain A-Tip Match bullet. Both of those loads were obtained using a 24″ barrel, so your mileage may vary.

300 PRC vs 300 Win Mag

300 PRC and .300 Win Mag factory loads generally have similar muzzle velocities, but the 300 PRC shoots a heavier bullet with a higher BC. Therefore, 300 PRC has a slightly flatter trajectory, a little more retained energy, less wind drift, and somewhat more recoil than the 300 Win Mag.

That’s how the two cartridges compare to each other in a nutshell. As we drill down into the details of their similarities and differences though, several especially important factors emerge.

First off, the cartridges have different roots and were built with different goals in mind.

While the 300 PRC was purpose built for long range shooting, the .300 Win Mag was primarily designed for hunters. The Winchester cartridge was also originally designed in the early 1960s, well before hunters and shooters fully appreciated the need for longer and more aerodynamic bullets.

That’s not a knock against the .300 Win Mag at all, but the cartridge is a product of those times. It works great for many tasks (which we’ll get into in a minute), but the cartridge design simply has certain limitations.

The .300 Win Mag and the 300 PRC both fire the same .308″ diameter bullets. There is some overlap in the common bullet weights they use, but the 300 PRC generally works better with longer and heavier bullets.

For instance, the 300 Win Mag commonly uses bullets in the 150-210 grain range with 150gr, 165gr, 180gr, 190gr, and 200gr bullets being most common. The .300 Win Mag normally uses a 1:10″ rifling twist, which is optimal for stabilizing bullets in that weight range.

While the 300 PRC can use those lighter bullets, it’s most commonly available with either 212gr or 225gr bullets in factory loads. Handloaders have utilized bullets weighing up to 250gr with the cartridge with great success.

For this reason, most 300 PRC rifles usually have a relatively fast rifling twist rate (usually 1:8″) in order to stabilize those long, heavy, high BC bullets.

So, why is the 300 PRC better suited for using those heavier bullets than the .300 Win Mag?

As I mentioned earlier, the 300 PRC has more head height than the .300 Win Mag. You can calculate head height by subtracting case length from the overall length of the cartridge.

The folks at Winchester opted to build the .300 Win Mag to fit in a standard length rifle action. This meant a maximum overall length of 3.34″.

On the other hand, the designers at Hornady didn’t operate under those constraints. With an overall length of 3.7″, the 300 PRC requires a magnum length rifle action. At the same time, the .300 PRC actually has a tiny bit shorter case length than the .300 Win Mag (2.62″ vs 2.58″).

This results in a relatively short .72” head height for the .300 Win Mag vs a much longer 1.12″ head height for the .300 PRC.

Basically, having more head height means the 300 PRC offers more room outside the case for bullets than the .300 Win Mag. As you can see in the photo below, the 300 PRC can use long, sleek bullets without seating them so deep they intrude into the powder column or contacting the rifling upon chambering.

Why can’t handloaders just use those same long, sleek bullets with the .300 Win Mag and not seat them so deep in the case?

Well, that would result in an overall length in excess of the SAAMI specifications for the cartridge. Since gun manufacturers build their rifles to those same specifications, there simply isn’t enough space in a standard length rifle action (or magazine) for those longer bullets.

That said, some custom rifle manufacturers will build a .300 Win Mag using a longer magnum length rifle action to get around those constraints, which does give handloaders a bit more wiggle room when using longer bullets. However, this article is primarily focused on using rifles in common production, not custom builds.

At the same time, the 300 PRC has a longer case neck than the .300 Win Mag (.3076″ vs .264″). In general, a longer neck helps hold a projectile (especially a very long one) securely and concentrically, both of which help with accuracy.

The 300 PRC also has a smaller throat diameter than the .300 Win Mag.

The throat is the smooth portion of a rifle barrel closest to the cartridge. Having a more snug throat diameter means there’s less room for the bullet to yaw upon firing before engaging the rifling. This can also help enhance accuracy.

Well, the 300 PRC has a throat diameter just .0008″ larger than the bullet diameter while the 300 Win Mag throat has a whopping .007″ of clearance around the bullet.

Additionally, the 300 PRC has a minimally tapered beltless case with a 30 degree shoulder. The .300 Win Mag uses a belted case with a 25 degree shoulder.

While the .300 Win Mag is certainly capable of excellent accuracy in the right hands, the 300 PRC was specifically designed for exceptional accuracy and outstanding performance at long range. As you can see, it incorporates a number of features to help accomplish that goal. Not surprisingly, the 300 PRC is extremely highly regarded for being a very inherently accurate cartridge.

In addition to the advantages the 300 PRC has in terms of accuracy and bullet selection, it also has a slightly greater powder capacity.

As previously stated, both cartridges have the same .532″ case head diameter. However, the actual body diameter of the 300 PRC is the same diameter as the belt on the .300 Win Mag. Since the cases are almost identical in length, the 300 PRC can hold a little more powder (the 300 Win Mag has about 90-91gr of case capacity vs 97-99gr for the 300 PRC).

For example, the Hornady reloading handbook lists a maximum load of 77.0gr of powder for the 300 PRC when using a 225gr ELD Match bullet, but just 72.7gr of powder when loading that same bullet in the 300 Winchester Magnum (p585 of the Hornady 10th Edition Reloading Manual).

Finally, the 300 PRC also has a higher SAAMI maximum pressure of 65,000psi vs 64,000psi for the .300 Win Mag.

Note: while the powder capacity figures listed above do give a good indication of the differences between the two cartridges, exact case capacities vary slightly according to the brand of brass used.

The table below compares a 200gr Hornady ELD-X (.597 BC) load in .300 Winchester Magnum to a load shooting a 212gr Hornady ELD-X bullet in 300 PRC (.673 BC). This data is for Hornady Precision Hunter factory ammo using a 200 yard zero and a 24 inch barrel.

As you can see, the two cartridges have virtually the same muzzle velocity, but the 300 PRC shoots a heavier and more aerodynamic bullet. This results in the 300 PRC having a tiny bit flatter trajectory with just 1.6″ (4%) less bullet drop at 500 yards. The 300 PRC also has about 7% more energy at the muzzle and about 15% more energy remaining at 500 yards than the .300 Win Mag.

Since this article is focused on the performance of these cartridges for hunting, I didn’t include any ballistic data past 500 yards in the table above. However, just to give you an idea of the benefits of the 300 PRC over the .300 Win Mag at long range, consider this: the .300 Win Mag has 20″ (~8%) more bullet drop at 1,000 yards and 96″ (12%) more bullet drop at 1,500 yards with a 200 yard zero.

To further illustrate that same point, consider the supersonic ranges of the two cartridges. This particular .300 Win Mag load drops below the speed of sound around 1,500 yards, but the 300 Precision Rifle Cartridge stays supersonic out until around 1,700 yards.

That’s not nothing, but there’s also not a gigantic difference between them either.

The chart below compares how much a 10 mile per hour crosswind impacts those same loads for each cartridge out to 500 yards.

At 500 yards, there’s just 2″ separating them. Even at 1,000 yards, the .300 Win Mag has about 10″ (~18%) more wind drift than the 300 PRC. So, the 300 PRC does have an advantage in this area, but once again, there’s not a gigantic difference between them.

Now let’s talk about recoil.

The table below compares a couple of handloads that approximate the performance of the factory loads given above when fired from identical Christensen Arms Mesa rifles.

Felt recoil will vary from shooter to shooter and rifle to rifle, but free recoil energy is still a useful way to compare cartridges.

Not surprisingly, the 300 PRC delivers those ballistic advantages over the .300 Win Mag at the expense of about 13% more free recoil energy. That’s saying something too because the .300 Win Mag is known for having a relatively stout recoil itself.

Even so, the 300 PRC is still a very shootable cartridge, especially in a heavier rifle. So, it’s not like you’re dealing with .338 Lapua levels of recoil with it.

In fact, that is one of the other selling points of the 300 Precision Rifle Cartridge: it delivers a definite advantage over other .30 caliber cartridges at long range, but without the punishing recoil of higher tier long range cartridges like the .338 Norma or .338 Lapua.

That’s also one of the reasons why the United States Department of Defense recently bought some Barrett MRAD rifles chambered in 300 PRC to supplement the other cartridges the United States Special Operations Command (SOCOM) uses in their sniper rifles.

Take all that for what you will.

So where do we stand overall with the 300 PRC vs 300 Win Mag?

Basically, the 300 PRC is capable of firing a heavier, more aerodynamic bullet at virtually the same velocity attained by the .300 Win Mag when using lighter bullets. That translates into a slightly flatter trajectory, a little more resistance to wind drift, and a little more kinetic energy at typical hunting ranges.

If you want to use the 300 PRC for elk hunting, the additional couple hundred ft-lbs of kinetic energy the cartridge provides might come in handy, but then again, the .300 Win Mag is plenty powerful for that work and I doubt any elk will be able to tell the difference.

The flatter trajectory and more resistance to wind drift of the 300 Precision Rifle Cartridge can also help with shot placement. This does make the cartridge a little bit more forgiving of range or wind estimation errors than the 300 Win Mag, but once again, it’s not a tremendous difference.

While this is probably not an issue for most hunters, typical 300 PRC barrel life is very likely a little shorter than typical .300 Win Mag barrel life.

Since the two cartridges use the same diameter barrel, throat erosion occurs a little faster with the 300 PRC because it has a little bit more case capacity. Simply put, burning more powder in an equally sized space will result in shorter barrel life.

This means that, in general, the 300 PRC will wear out barrels a little faster than the .300 Win Mag will (which can be a bit of a barrel burner itself). Exactly how fast that occurs depends on a number of factors like the quality of the barrel, the exact ammunition used, etc.

For serious target shooters, this is a concern. However, the good news for hunters is that typical 300 PRC barrel life is more than enough to last for many years of hunting with no issues at all.

So, while there is a difference in .300 Win Mag vs 300 PRC barrel life, it probably isn’t going to be a big issue for most hunters.

Unfortunately, the 300 PRC does have more recoil than the .300 Win Mag though.

While many hunters should be able to handle the recoil of both cartridges without too much trouble, don’t underestimate the impact that recoil has on the ability of a person to shoot accurately either. Regardless of how well a given person handles recoil, all other things being equal, they will absolutely shoot better with a milder recoil.

All things considered though, both cartridges are very accurate, flat shooting, and hit hard enough for use on a wide variety of game at practical hunting ranges. Regardless of whether you’re using a .300 Winchester Magnum or a 300 Precision Rifle Cartridge, no pronghorn, mule deer, or elk will go far if you put a well constructed bullet into the vitals.

Of the two cartridges though, the .300 Win Mag is still by far the most popular with hunters. This is reflected in the prices, availability, and variety of factory ammunition and hunting rifles currently in production for each cartridge.

So, even though the 300 PRC does have some advantages on paper, those small advantages don’t make much difference for the vast majority of hunters. The .300 Win Mag is still a fantastic hunting round and it’s a whole lot easier to find .300 Win Mag rifles and loaded ammunition.

If you already have a .300 Win Mag, there’s really not a big reason to upgrade to the 300 PRC unless you just want to.

In fact, the .300 Winchester Magnum is probably the better all around choice for most hunters.

That said, the 300 PRC gives hunters the ability to wring a little bit more performance out of a .30 caliber magnum cartridge. If you really enjoy shooting at longer range, then the inherent accuracy of the cartridge and the fact that it’s designed to use very heavy, high BC bullets are both compelling arguments in favor of the 300 PRC.

It’s a wonderful cartridge for long range precision shooting and I can certainly understand why somebody who used the cartridge for that sort of work would also want to take a 300 PRC afield.

300 PRC Ammo

The 300 Precision Rifle Cartridge does have a pretty dedicated following, but it’s not extremely popular in absolute terms and can’t certainly hold a candle to more established cartridges like the .270 Winchester or .30-06.

This will likely change in the future, but Hornady is the only major ammunition company currently producing 300 PRC ammo. The cartridge is available in both the Hornady Precision Hunter and Hornady Match lines with 212 grain ELD-X and 225 grain ELD Match bullets respectively.

Some people do hunt with the Match loads, but the Precision Hunter line is purpose built for long range hunting and is generally the better choice for most game.

Just as you’d probably expect, 300 PRC ammo is usually more expensive and not as easy to find as more popular cartridges. Since it’s used by a relatively small segment of the hunting world, not every sporting goods store keeps 300 PRC ammo in stock, but most of the big retailers in the USA usually have a couple of boxes of ammo on hand for the cartridge.

That said, I wouldn’t count on finding 300 Precision Rifle Cartridge ammunition in smaller gun store. Availability of ammunition is usually pretty good online though and most of the bigger retailers typically have a good selection of quality factory 300 PRC ammo in stock.

BUY SOME EXCELLENT 300 PRECISION RIFLE CARTRIDGE AMMO HERE

Reloading components for the cartridge (like 300 PRC brass) are available though. The high price of factory ammo and the difficulty involved with obtaining a reliable supply of ammo at times makes it a good choice for handloaders.

One other good point about the cartridge is that even though it’s not nearly as common as other .30 caliber cartridges, the fact that it satisfies a niche market does make it less susceptible to panic buying (unlike the .223 Remington or .308 Winchester for example). So, you’ll probably still be able to find 300 PRC ammo on shelves when people are buying everything else.

Since it uses the same .308″ bullet size that’s also used by the .308 Winchester, .30-06 Springfield, .300 Win Mag, and .300 Remington Ultra Magnum (among others), reloaders have access to a good number of outstanding quality bullets in the 180-200 grain range suitable for use on a wide variety of game to choose from.

However, there’s not quite a big of a selection of really heavy, high BC .30 caliber bullets. Aside from the aforementioned Hornady bullets, 190gr and 200gr Barnes LRX will work well with the 300 PRC (it’s a pure copper bullet, so the LRX is longer for a given weight than a lead core bullet) . The same goes for a couple of different options from Berger, so reloaders should be able to make a custom hunting load that works well for their needs.

300 PRC Rifles

The increasing popularity of long range precision shooting has resulted in a good selection of high quality rifles available for the 300 Precision Rifle Cartridge.

Among other companies, Barrett, Bergara, Browning, Christensen Arms, Fierce Firearms, GA Precision, Gunwerks, Hill Country Rifles, Howa, Ruger, and Seekins Precision all manufacture bolt action 300 PRC rifles.

So, while the selection of ammunition available for the cartridge is relatively small, hunters actually have some really nice rifles to choose from.

BUY A CHRISTENSEN ARMS 300 PRC HUNTING RIFLE HERE

BUY A BROWNING 300 PRC HUNTING RIFLE HERE

BUY A RUGER 300 PRC HUNTING RIFLE HERE

Best 300 Precision Rifle Cartridge Ammo For Hunting

Unlike the .300 Win Mag, there aren’t many options for factory 300 PRC hunting ammo right now. That’s slowly changing though.

If you’d like to learn more about some of the various hunting ammunition choices for the 300 PRC read this article:

Best 300 PRC Ammo For Hunting Elk, Deer, & Bear

Final Thoughts On The 300 PRC

The 300 PRC is a very well designed cartridge that offers some real advantages to long range shooters and fills an important niche among the various .30 caliber magnum cartridges. I’m actually a little surprised it took this long for a cartridge that fills that void to come along, but better late than never and Hornady did an excellent job when they designed the 300 PRC.

While a surprisingly large number of shooters and hunters have adopted the new cartridge, the small benefits it offers over more established calibers like the .300 Win Mag and .300 Remington Ultra Magnum probably aren’t big enough for most hunters to justify making the switch.

This is especially true considering the lack of 300 Precision Rifle Cartridge ammo choices at this point. Even so, the ammo selection for the cartridge will almost certainly improve in the future if the cartridge continues to grow in popularity. So, if you’re the type of person who wants to wring out all the performance you can from a certain caliber, by all means get a 300 PRC.

It’s a fantastic cartridge and I’m sure it will serve you well, particularly if you enjoy shooting at longer range.

Do you have a rifle chambered in 300 PRC that you’re itching to take on a hunt?

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J Scott Olmstead’s article for The American Hunter was used as references for the history of the 300 PRC. The Hornady 10th Edition (p574-585) reloading manual (and their online supplement) provided data to compare their size and recoil of the .300 Win Mag and 300 PRC. The data used to compare the trajectory of the cartridges was obtained from Hornady (here, and here). Maximum pressure for the .300 Win Mag and maximum pressure and cartridge dimensions for the 300 PRC were obtained from SAAMI (p172 for the .300 Win Mag) and here for the 300 PRC. Case capacity information for the 300 Win Mag and 300 PRC were obtained from Chuck Hawks (here) and from Hornady. I used Shooters Calculator to compare trajectories, wind drift, and recoil for the cartridges.

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NEXT: BEST 6.5 CREEDMOOR AMMO FOR HUNTING ELK, DEER, AND OTHER BIG GAME

NEXT: BEST GIFTS FOR HUNTERS

By Tom Kelly

The resurgence in lighter, sleeker shotguns has prompted some of the major shotgun manufacturers to introduce some newer versions of the 16 gauge in the last few years.

The 16 gauge was another victim of the magnum craze. It seemed like for a while if it didn’t have a 3” or 3 ½” chamber, it didn’t sell. Well, like many of the other magnums, when people started shooting them, they lost some of their luster. In the last 10 to 15 years, there has been a resurgence of the smaller gauge shotguns. There are even people hunting turkeys with .410 bores. Here in the north country, we still appreciate a good upland game gun. Many 16 gauge shotguns fill this job admirably.

Slug Options

The 16 gauge can fulfill the role of an all around game gun in a very sleek classic style. In places like Massachusetts, where deer can only be hunted with shotguns, a 16 gauge loaded with slugs can be an effective tool. It can also be accomplished in a lighter sleeker shotgun. I have also had bear clients successfully harvest black bears with 16 gauge slugs. The niche where this midsized gauge really shines, however, is for upland game. There are few places a Browning sweet 16 or an Ithica Mod 37 Featherweight swings as smoothly as when following partridge weave through the trees. Countless snowshoe hare have also fallen to a 1 oz load of #6’s from these classic guns.

In the 40s and 50s, approximately 25% of the sporting shotguns sold were 16 gauge models. Sadly, that is no longer the case. There are still many fans of the 16 bore. Unfortunately, most of these fans are now senior citizens. As an example, my lifelong hunting partner and friend Bob, whom you have all heard about, has 3 Browning Sweet 16 shotguns. One is set up with a low power scope for slug shooting, one has a modified choke for pheasants over dogs and the third has an improved cylinder for partridge and hare.

Specs The specs of the 16 gauge are pretty respectable for these aforementioned purposes. The bore measures .662 of an inch. Shotshells can be had in 1 oz or 1 1/8 oz payloads. A 1 1/8 oz load of #6 shot leaves the muzzle at 1423 fps. That will catch a fleeing hare and put his tail over his ears quickly.

The resurgence in lighter, sleeker shotguns has prompted some of the major shotgun manufacturers to introduce some newer versions of the 16 gauge in the last few years. Browning has reintroduced the classic sweet 16 with some modern touches. Browning is also offering the Citori 725 over and under in this gauge. Savage Arms and Franchi, are also making 16 gauge over and under shotguns. CZ is offering a Sharptail side by side in 16 gauge. These all feature a reduced size receiver to add to the lines.

Hopefully, a new generation of 16 gauge fans will respond to these new offerings. Some of the old classics can still be found on used gun racks. The good news is used 16 gauge shotguns usually sell for less than comparable 12 or 20’s. Remember a lightweight Browning Sweet 16 would make a perfect 1st shotgun for that new shooter you are bringing along.

Tom is a Registered Maine Guide. He is the owner/operator of Shamrock Outfitters in Orient Maine with his wife Ellie. He is a retired police officer as well as a retired manager from two major firearms manufacturers. He is an NRA Certified Instructor as well as a Hunter Safety Instructor in Maine, New Hampshire and Massachusetts. You can reach Tom at Shamrock Outfitters (207) 694-2473. Please visit our Facebook Page: Shamrock Outfitters and Properties and come visit us on East Grand Lake.

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