Identifying seed pods is a great way to recognize different species of trees. One of the benefits of using seed pods for tree identification is that you usually find seed enclosures on the ground. This can make it easier to identify a tree species than using the leaf shape. Tree seed pods can be winged, ball-shaped, coniferous cones, papery enclosures, or long slender pods like bean pods.

Of course, it’s not always possible to use a tree seed pod identification guide to identify trees. Seed pods may only fall to the ground after flowering. And the seed pods on some species of trees persist on the tree throughout winter. However, looking at the shape, size, and color of the seed pod can often help identify the tree.

The term “seed pod” typically refers to the seed-bearing structure of plants in the legume family (Fabaceae). These pods are usually long and slender, containing several round pea-like seeds in a row. However, tree seed pods can also refer to any type of casing that contains seeds from a tree or large shrub.

This article is an identification guide for tree seed pods. In it, you’ll discover how to identify seed pods from trees like maples, elms, ash, silver birch, beech, chestnut, and several types of conifers. Descriptions and pictures of seed pods and other identifying features of trees will help you distinguish species of trees in the landscape.

Tree Seed Pod Identification

The two primary ways to identify seed pods are by looking at their shape and size. However, tree seed pod identification is also possible by the feel of the pod — is it smooth, fuzzy, or spiky? Additionally, some types of seed pods fall relatively early in the season, whereas others stay on the tree throughout winter.

Tree seed pod identification — shape: First, look at the seed pod’s shape. Most trees in the legume family have long, slender, curved pods, like those you’d find on pea and bean plants.

However, many deciduous trees, like ash, maple, and elm, have flattened, papery seed casings called samaras. However, most coniferous trees have seed-containing cones. But chestnut, hickory, and beech trees have rounded pods, sometimes with spiky exteriors.

Tree seed pod identification — size: The seed pod’s size is another identifying feature to help recognize the tree species. There is great variation in the length of some tree seed pods in the legume family. For example, flat redbud tree seed pods measure 3” (7.5 cm) long. However, mimosa tree pods grow 4” to 8” (10 – 20 cm) long, and locust tree seed pods measure 6” to 18” (15 – 45 cm).

The seed pods of trees are called fruits, although we never think of papery winged seeds or long curled pods as fruits. Additionally, sometimes tree seeds are also referred to as nuts.

Types of Tree Seed Pods (With Pictures) – Identification Guide

All trees produce seeds to reproduce. However, many tree seeds develop in pods or other protective structures. For example, some seed pods are like leathery balls, whereas others are woody cones. Then there are papery winged seeds that fall to the ground, spinning like a helicopter’s blades. How can you identify the many types of tree seed pods? Please read on to find out.

Maple Tree Seed Pods

Maple tree seed pods look like a pair of wing-shaped papery structures joined in the middle. Each winged section is called a samara. These seed pods are also named helicopter seeds because when they drop from the tree, they have a characteristic spinning motion. This feature gives the seeds names like whirlers, helicopters, or whirligigs.

Maple tree seed pods grow 1.18” to 2” (3 – 5 cm) long. Seeds from maples are the only samara with true helicopter-like action.

The wing-like structure helps the seeds to disperse in the wind, far away from the tree. Other identification features of maple trees include their leaves with usually three or five pointed lobes, reddish-brown bark or gray-brown bark. Many species of maple trees (Acer spp.) grow up to 150 ft. (45 m) tall.

Elm Tree Seed Pods

Elm trees produce seed pods encased in flat, papery, oval pods. Each elm tree seed pod contains a single seed, and the light green disc-like pods grow in large clusters on the tree. The papery seeds typically disperse from the tree in spring after flowering. Elm tree seed pods measure 0.5” (1.22 cm) across.

Apart from the round seed casing, elm trees can be identified by their deep green, oval, pointed leaves with serrated margins. In addition, elm trees have dark grayish-brown bark that is heavily furrowed and scaly. They also have small clusters of red or green flowers. Elm trees (Ulmus spp.) grow up to 100 ft. (30 m) tall.

Ash Tree Seed Pods

Ash tree seed pods are large oval paddle-shaped papery pods growing in large clusters. The brown winged seeds look like a bunch of dried leaves hanging from branches. Also called keys, the samaras persist on the tree until late fall or early winter. The oar-shaped seed pods measure 2” (5 cm) long.

Another distinguishing feature of ash trees (Fraxinus spp.) is their pinnately compound leaves. Each leaf comprises five pairs of pointed leaflets with a terminal leaflet at the end of the petiole. The leaves measure 8” to 12” (20 – 30 cm) in length. Ash trees typically grow 60 to 80 ft. (18 – 24 m) tall.

Learn more about white ash trees and the identifying features of green ash trees.

Beech Tree Seed Pods

Beech tree seed pods are identified as brown, spiny burs that have a hard shell and are called cupules. Each brown seed pod contains two to four seeds. An unusual feature of beech nuts is their angular shape with three sides. Beech tree seeds measure 0.5” to 1” (1.12 – 2.5 cm) long, and the spiky burs are slightly larger.

Beech trees are deciduous trees belonging to the genus Fagus. Apart from the brown spiky seed pods, identification features of beech trees include large, glossy green leaves forming a rounded, spreading crown. Additionally, beech trees have smooth, light-gray bark. Beech trees grow 60 to 80 ft. (18 – 24 m) tall.

Silver Birch Tree Seed Pods

Silver birch seed pods are tiny, winged seeds that grow in clusters resembling long flower spikes called catkins. Each minuscule seed has a translucent papery casing that opens like two wings. The seeds develop in catkins on the female trees. A single silver birch tree can produce thousands of seeds every year.

Pictures of silver birch seeds look like small flies with a body (seed), two antennae-like protrusions, and a pair of wings. The seeds only measure 0.11” to 0.15” (3 – 4 mm) across. Other identifying features of the silver birch (Betula pendula) are its silvery white bark and triangular leaves with jagged edges growing on weeping branches.

Horse Chestnut Tree Seed Pods

Horse chestnut seed pods are spiky green balls formed by a soft, thick husk. The spongy casing opens to reveal a mahogany brown seed with a recognizable grayish patch. Typically, each horse chestnut seed pod has one or two fruits (seeds). The rounded pods measure 1” to 2” (2.5 – 5 cm) in diameter.

Horse chestnut trees (Aesculus hippocastanum) grow 50 to 70 ft. (15 – 21 m) tall. The large deciduous trees have large conical, upward point clusters of pinkish white flowers, large palmately compound leaves, slightly fissured grayish bark, and a distinctive pyramidal shape.

Buckeye trees, that are related to the horse chestnut trees, also produce seed pods similar to horse chestnut trees. But, unlike chestnut trees (Castanea spp.), horse chestnut seeds and buckeye seeds are toxic and inedible.

Chestnut Tree Seed Pods

Chestnut tree seed pods are large, fuzzy, ball-like pods containing several large edible seeds or fruits. The spiky pods (called cupules) have sharp spines, and each pod contains several brown-colored seeds. An identifying feature of sweet, edible chestnut seeds is that they have a flat side and a small tuft.

Chestnut trees are identified by their lance-shaped, coarsely-toothed linear leaves measuring 6” to 10” (15 – 25 cm). Additionally, chestnut flowers are long, finger-like flower clusters in a creamy-white color. These dangling catkins measure 4” to 8” (10 – 20 cm) long. The fast-growing trees reach impressive heights of 60 to 100 ft. (18 – 30 m).

Redbud Tree Seed Pods

Redbud tree seed pods are large, flattened bean-like pods dangling in large clusters. The narrow, pointed seed pods are green before turning dark maroon or purple and then brown as they dry on the tree. Each pod measures 3” (7.5 cm) long and contains many small pea-like seeds.

Western and eastern redbud trees (Cercis spp.) are deciduous trees growing 25 ft. (7.6 m) tall. Their bright magenta buds appear in spring before opening into showy, fragrant, vibrant pink or reddish-pink flowers. Redbud leaves are heart-shaped, and the green foliage turns yellow in the fall.

Sycamore Tree Seed Pods

Sycamore tree seed pods are spiky round balls that emerge green and turn brown. The small seed balls dangling on long petioles persist through winter before dropping to the ground in spring. Each jaggy seed pod contains many fluffy winged seeds that easily disperse when the sycamore seed pods break open.

The spiky seed balls measure 1” (2.5 cm) in diameter.

Sycamore trees (Platanus spp.) grow 100 to 130 ft. (30 – 40 m) tall. Apart from the brownish spiked seed pods, other identifying features are their maple-like leaves with deep, pointed lobes, smooth, thin colorful flaky bark that looks like camouflage, and insignificant greenish flowers.

Pine Tree Seed Pods (Cones)

Pine tree seed pods are conical structures consisting of woody scales. Pine cones are typically tan or brown and can be egg-shaped or have a slender and conical appearance. Each woody scale encloses a tiny seed that disperses when the cones open. Depending on the species, pine tree cones can range in size from 0.78” to 23” (2 – 60 cm).

Pine cone seed pods can help distinguish pine trees from fir trees. This is because the brown, woody cone-shaped seed pods typically grow downward rather than upward. Other identifying features of pine trees (Pinus spp.) are their evergreen needle-like leaves growing in bunches of two to five and arranged spirally on branches.

Spruce Tree Seed Pods (Cones)

Spruce tree seed pods consist of thin, flexible scales attached to a central stalk creating a conical cone. The slender, cone-like seed pods can emerge green, red, or purple before maturing to brown. Although compared to pine cones, they look similar, spruce cones are not as hard or ridged.

The cone-shaped spruce tree seed pods grow between 1” and 6” (2.5 – 15 cm) depending on the species of conifer (Picea spp.). You can also identify spruce trees by their short, four-sided needles that are individually attached to branches. Unlike fir tree needles, you can roll spruce needles between your fingers.

Fir Tree Seed Pods (Cones)

Fir tree seed pods are cylindrical cones that grow upward on woody branches. Compared to other evergreen conifers, fir tree seed cones are the most colorful. Some are deep purple, pale blue, or reddish-brown color. Fir tree cones can grow up to 10” (25 cm) and look like candles on a tree.

Other identifying features of fir trees (Abies) are their soft, feathery flat needles and smooth bark.

Mimosa Tree Seed Pods

Mimosa tree seed pods are identified as papery bean-like pods that emerge green and turn brown. Each flattened seed pod contains five to ten round seeds. The flat pods grow profusely on trees, dangling from bare branches in the fall. The tree seed pods measure 4” to 8” (1.2 – 2.4 cm) long and 1” (2.5 cm) wide.

Mimosa trees (Albizia Julibrissin) are also identified by their smooth, light gray bark, fern-like pinnately compound leaves, and pink puffball flowers.

Palo Verde Tree Seed Pods

Palo verde tree seed pods are easily identifiable because they look like green, red, or brown beaded chains hanging from branches. The leathery seed pods contain edible oval seeds which are black or brown. The unusual leguminous (bean-like) seed pods measure 2” to 3” (5 – 7.5 cm) long.

Palo verde trees (Parkinsonia spp.) have bright yellow flowers and thorny branches, covered in pinnate leaves with pairs of tiny leaflets growing in pairs oppositely on thorny stems measuring 6” to 9” (15 – 23 cm) long.

Royal Poinciana Tree Seed Pods

Royal poinciana tree seed pods are huge leguminous seed pods growing between 12” and 24” (30 – 60 cm) long. The dark brown, flattened seed-containing pods look like leather straps hanging from trees. These large seed pods emerge in the fall and persist on the tree through winter until spring.

Other identifying features of royal poinciana trees (Delonix regia) are their bi-pinnate feathery leaves, vibrantly colored red flowers, and large, spreading rounded crown.

Locust Tree Seed Pods

Locust tree seed pods are large, flattened, dark brown pods that are distinctively spirally twisted. Each of these contorted or hooked seed pods contains several large oval seeds. Locust seed pods grow 4” to 8” (10 – 20 cm) long and dangle from thorny branches from fall until the following spring.

Locust trees (Robinia spp.) grow 66 to 100 ft. (20 – 30 m) tall. They are identified by their large pinnate leaves, thorn-covered trunks, and dangling clusters of white flowers.

Kentucky Coffee Tree Seed Pods

Kentucky coffee tree seed pods are flattened, thick, leathery pods that measure 5” to 10” (12 – 25 cm) long and up to 2” (5 cm) wide. The large seed pods contain dark-brown or olive-green round seeds, with three to nine seeds per pod. Although the seeds are toxic, you can roast them and brew a coffee-like drink.

Other identifying features of Kentucky coffee trees (Gymnocladus dioicus) are their rough, scaly bark, large, pinnately compound leaves, and small white, star-shaped flowers.

Catalpa Tree Seed Pods

Catalpa tree seed pods are easily recognizable pods due to their slender, cylindrical shape and long length — measuring between 12” and 24” (30 – 60 cm). These long cigar-like seed pods grow in dangling clusters that are green and mature to dark brown. Winged seeds disperse when the pods split open.

Other names for catalpa trees (Catalpa spp.) are the bean tree, Indian cigar tree, and smoking bean tree. The catalpa tree also has showy white flowers, smooth gray bark, and heart-shaped green leaves.

Jacaranda Tree Seed Pods

Jacaranda tree seed pods are round, brown, woody pods with numerous winged seeds. The brownish seed pods grow in clusters on trees and have a twisted appearance. The pods measure 3” (7.5 cm) across and are noticeable on jacaranda trees in late summer. Resembling a small scallop, the pods open to disperse their seeds.

Jacaranda trees (Jacaranda mimosifolia) are famous for their stunning floral displays of blue or bluish-purple trumpet-shaped flowers, attractive bi-pinnate compound leaves, and grayish-brown scaly bark.

Acacia Tree Seed Pods

Acacia tree seed pods are known for their long, slender seed-bearing pods that look like rosary beads or necklaces. However, some acacia species have flattened, broad seed pods that are banana-shaped. The distinctive furry seed pods are typically dark brown and grow up to 10” (26 cm) long. Each legume pod contains several pea-like seeds.

Acacia trees (Acacia spp.) are easy to identify due to their spectacular white or yellow puffball fuzzy flowers, fern-like leaves, and thorny branches.

Related articles:

• Trees With Long Seed Pods – Identification Guide
• Trees With Spiky Seeds Balls (With Pictures)
• Types of Hickory Nuts – Identification Guide

This Article Covers:

Choosing A Skinning Knife

Skinning Knife Set

For me, the worst thing that could happen after a successful hunt, is that gut sinking feeling you get, when you can’t find your knife? it’s only happened a couple of times in 40 years, but even once is one time too many…

The solution for me is to always carry a spare knife in my day pack or better still you could build in real redundancy, and carry a compact skinning knife set.A skinning set is what I would use if I wasn’t so happy with my current knives.

Best Skinning Knife Sets – Check Today’s Prices!

Whether I’m skinning deer in the field or butchering meat at home, my go-to knife at the moment is a 6″ Boning Knife or a Swingblade from Outdoor Edge, the Swingblade has a 3.6″ drop point skinning blade as well as a separate 3.2″ gutting blade, rather than the usual gut hook you would find on a Buck or Gerber Skinning Knives – I find the Swingblade fast and comfortable to use, excellent for field dressing deer!

Skinning Knives For Deer…

Deer Skinning Knife – My Pick…

Apart from the Skinning Knife Set from Jero USA, which I feel is a bargain for 3 quality knives – (Made in Portugal) ideal if you refuse to buy knives made in China? The best deer skinning knife I’ve seen on Amazon, so far, is this Victorinox Beef Skinning Blade, A popular, 5″ Swiss-made knife, it is a tough, well-balanced, from a top-quality brand, at a competitive price.The Victorinox Beef Skinner is the Knife I would buy if I was in the market for a single skinning knife?

Top Skinning Knife Set

I recently discovered this well priced, some might say very cheap, professional skinning set from Jero Knives. Jero Pro 3 Piece Butcher Sets, made in Portugal, sold in the US, by JERO USA, the knife set has tough non-slip polymer handles [textured plastic] that is injection moulded over high-carbon knife steel! – these knives are made to work hard, all day every day. They sell with a Lifetime Warranty!

Jero Pro 3 Piece Butcher Set

Knife sets, such as the Jero Butcher Knife Kit, include no-nonsense skinning knives, designed for commercial meat processing – even with hard use, they will last for years! top quality knives at an amazingly low price!

For most hunters or farmers, butchering their own animals, a knife set or single skinning knife from the Jero Pro Series, is all you would need for processing large game animals like deer, moose, or elk – even skinning and butchering a hog or beef animal.

6 Skinning Knife Sets – Compare

Deer Skinning Kit – My Pick…

The 3 Piece Knife Set from Jero Pro Series In my opinion, is the best skinning knife set, You will find on AmazonBuy Now – (3 Piece Skinning Set) Pro-quality butcher knives, made in Portugal Suitable for field dressing deer, moose, or elk… Jero USA, Supply A Full Range Of Quality Knives To ProfessionalsCHECK TODAY’S PRICES!___________

Best Budget Skinning Set

The 6 piece Deer Skinning Kit from Outdoor Edge would be my backup choice. I love the solid carry case, but in my opinion, the two main knives are a bit small for skinning the larger Red Deer that I hunt, Though this knife kit is still worth buying just for the convenient carry case, caping knife, and ceramic sharpener… The main skinning knives in the set could be your backup knives.

Popular Skinning Knife Types

Skinning Blade Types

Drop Point Skinning Blade

What is a drop point blade? Drop point blades are my favourite blade shape for skinning deer, a well-balanced drop point knife is fast to use when skinning, due to the curve of the blade, rather than a sharp tip or point as you get with a clip point knife – in most situations, I find there is less chance of rupturing the gut or cutting through the skin/pelt when you skin a large animal using drop point blades…

Drop Point is a common blade for skinning knives due to its looks, ease of use, and strength of the blade, the strength comes from the deep curve of the blade tip and the thickness or heft of most skinning blades is designed into the knife for processing larger animals like deer or elk.

These positive attributes transfer across to smaller knives either folding knives or small fixed blades they often sell with drop point blades for skinning small game or EDC work…

But for me, I tend to buy a clip point blade for skinning small game like rabbits.

Clip Point Skinning Blade

The next best blade to the drop point is the traditional clip point blade, in most cases, it is a more versatile blade shape, but not as strong as a large drop point knife.

The clip point is popular with people who only carry one skinning knife as it is suitable for many tasks…

Skinning or Beef Skinner

When I first started hunting, these large curved blades were a common sight on every hunter’s hip in my neck of the woods, Known by some, as the beef skinner, we just referred to them as butcher knives…they came standard from farm suppliers with a deep leather sheath, with sharpening steel attached.

Jero Knives or a Beef Skinner from Victorinox Knives, are two good knife brands that still produce quality versions of the beef skinning knife – without the sheath, its long sweeping blade will be familiar to many older hunters, In the past, I would expect to see a beef skinner above every chopping block in any good skinning shed…

Knife Handle Material

Wood Knife Handle

Wooden Knife handles are considered “Old School” by many, but in my opinion, wood is a great material for knife handles, it wears well stands a range of conditions, it is lightweight and feels nice in hand.

Plastic Knife Handle

Derided by some? but used by many top knife brands including Victorinox, who market their plastic handles as Fibrox, or as it states on their website [Thermoplastic Elastomers (TPE)] I have owned several hunting knives with plastic handles, they all survived hard use and on occasion a little bit of abuse. I still own one after 10 years, they are tough – Just don’t put them in the dishwasher! Hand Wash Only!

Skinning Knife 7 Key Features

7 Key Features You should look for when buying a skinning knife.

1. Look for a well-balanced knife with a comfortable handle, a skinning knife needs to feel nice in the hand with a good solid feel, but not blade heavy.
2. You, want a non-slip handle, either textured rubber or a polymer/plastic, such as Fibrox, found on some Victorinox Knives, these handle materials are light, cheap, and durable, – a popular choice for working knives.
3. A 3.5″ to 6″ drop point blade, or a stiff 6″ boning knife, works great for processing deer in the field.
4. For me, a skinning knife must be reliable, easy-care, a stainless steel blade makes maintenance simple – a quick wash and sharpen when the job is done – no fuss, no oiling the blade, stainless blades are always ready for work!
5. Skinning Knives with softer steel like 420HC or AUS-8 are tough in use, as well as quick and easy to maintain its edge with a high grit sharpening stone or touch up with a sharpening steel. – Hard steel like 01 Tool Steel or S30V is nice but softer steel is less brittle and easier to sharpen quickly…
6. Hunting knives must hold their edge, a blunt knife is frustrating to use and much more likely to cut the person who is using it!
7. Cheap to buy? Buying Cheap Skinning Knives… doesn’t have to mean crap, once you know what to look for! – Victorinox Knives are cheap, but of excellent quality, for example, all the knives in our comparison table especially the Outdoor Edge Knives and Victorinox, will give you good service for many years, but most are priced to suit a tight budget… (I use both Brands when deer hunting)

Well designed Skinning Knives, from well-known brands, will have all of these 7 features, they hold an edge, sharpen easily, have textured, non-slip rubber or plastic handles, You can expect them to be durable and reliable…!

F.A.Q

Summary

Choosing a single skinning knife to use on a variety of game is a difficult task. If you only hunt deer? or only hunt small game like rabbits or fowl…? the task is simpler, a single knife of the appropriate size is all you need.I like to cover all the bases with a knife set like this 6 Piece Skinning Set from Outdoor Edge – the gut hook for processing large game, the caping knife for small game animals or caping your trophy bull, the boning knife is versatile, useful for all game animals.If you Butcher Hogs or Beef Animals, as well as Hunt Deer, Elk, or Moose, the 3 Piece Butcher Set from Jero USA is a great choice for processing large animals.

While there is plenty of available data, charts, and information on aging deer, we hope the info below, as well as our whitetail deer aging chart, can help you learn how to age a deer on the hoof before your next hunt. And if you successfully harvested a deer, we provide three additional aging techniques to determine deer ages.

Reasons to Learn the Age Class of Deer (Before You Shoot)

Aging whitetail deer isn’t necessary for general deer hunting goals. It won’t make you more successful at putting meat in the freezer during or after hunting season. But for those who choose to target older, more mature bucks, estimating age is a skill you must master.

Those who aren’t confident with their ability to age deer in the field on the fly should start by aging deer within trail camera photos. Then, if they see the deer while hunting, they’ll already know if they plan to shoot or not.

Of course, there are plenty of reasons to age a deer and ensure it’s an older member of the herd before shooting it:

1. If you want to shoot a mature deer, you must ensure it is one before sending a bullet or broadhead downrange.
2. If managing land for older bucks, identifying a deer as a young buck, and subsequently passing on it to allow it to reach a more mature age class, is necessary.
3. Passing on younger bucks means more and bigger bucks to see and shoot in the future.
4. Allowing bucks to age gives them time to express and spread their antler genetics.
5. Not shooting younger bucks — and taking the correct number of does — helps balance the buck-to-doe deer population ratio.
6. Allowing bucks to get older creates a balanced, natural age structure for the deer population
7. Having a balanced age structure improves the overall deer herd.
8. Improving the buck age structure increases the overarching area’s hunting (and land) value.

On a side note, if you’re tracking numerous bucks and following them over a number of years, it’s hard to beat DeerLab’s Profiles. It’s an excellent tool that can help you with your deer management. The service allows you to track individual bucks or even groups of bucks, keeping logs of their activity and movement, as well as seeing a buck’s historical growth over time. One lesser-known feature is Albums. This is helpful if you want to share your trail cam photos (without all the stats DeerLab gives you), say just of your hitlist bucks or photos of mature bucks, with others, so they can help you with your deer management.

Aging Deer on the Hoof: Characteristics of Age Classes

While it’s not likely to age doe on the hoof, keying in on whitetail bucks body characteristics can help you make an age estimation. Each buck exhibits unique antler, body, and personality traits. However, certain body features tend to consistently change with age and exhibit features tethered to particular age groups. Because of this, it makes aging deer possible. Aging deer on the hoof won’t tell you the exact age, but it will within a year or so of its actual age, and this can help deer management.

Some deer body parts to look at when trying to age class a whitetail deer on the hoof include the antlers, back, belly, head, legs, neck, and tarsal glands. Each of these changes over time, and how they look can provide clues as to what age a deer is or isn’t.

Age Estimate: 1 ½-Year-Old Buck

Also referred to as yearling bucks, a 1 ½-year-old resembles a small doe with antlers. Antler size has only reached approximately 20-30% of overall potential and is likely a spike, four-pointer, six-pointer, or very small eight-pointer. Regardless, the spread for younger deer will remain inside the ears.

The head appears long and slender. Body weight distribution is more toward the rear end. The back line appears to slope downward from back to front. The belly and back of the buck do not sag. The deer’s neck has no swelling. Legs seem to be very long compared to their torso. Tarsal glands are lightly stained.

Age Estimate: 2 ½-Year-Old Buck

Once a buck reaches 2 ½-year-old status, it’s synonymous with large does with antlers. It often grows antlers with a spread just inside, at, or just outside the ears, and it’s likely sporting about 50-60% of its lifetime antler potential. Often, it grows between six and 10 points, with a typical average number of eight points.

The head is still long and slender. Body weight distribution shows a heavier rump than front end. This age bracket has a backline that still slopes from the rump to the shoulders but has no sagging of the back or belly. The buck’s neck is generally slightly more muscular than the year before, but no severe swelling occurs. The legs still look too long for the body. Tarsal glands are somewhat stained.

Age Estimate: 3 ½-Year-Old Buck

Now we’re beginning to see some size. This is the age bracket when a buck starts being classified as “big.” It almost always has an antler spread outside the ears and expresses decent mass and good tine length. This buck sports approximately 70-80% of antler potential.

As for the body, the head still appears elongated, but it’s getting thicker from top to bottom, too. It now has a straight line across the back from rump to shoulders (no downward angle or sagging). It has a tight belly line. Weight seems to be distributed evenly from front to back. The neck begins to swell considerably, especially compared to 2 ½-year-old bucks. Legs finally look proportionate to the body. Tarsal glands are moderately stained.

Age Estimate: 4 ½-Year-Old Buck

While a 4 ½-year-old deer is close to being fully mature, it still has much potential to express. In fact, on average, it only grows approximately 80-90% of its antler potential. That said, it exhibits impressive antler size, and begins showing exceptional antler mass, tine length, and more.

The head is now blockier than it once was. Its weight distribution is mostly even from front to back. This age bracket still has a straight line across the back and belly. The neck has significant swelling. The legs still look mainly proportionate to the body. Tarsal glands are heavily stained.

Age Estimate: 5 ½-Year-Old Buck

No hunter can argue that a 5 ½-year-old deer isn’t mature. This animal expresses most of its antler potential, sporting about 90-95% of it, and its body is huge. Antlers generally display incredible mass, beam length, tine length, etc.

Its head appears shorter and thicker than ever before. Weight distribution seems to shift more toward the front of the body. The backline is still straight from rump to shoulders but might show slight swaying. The belly might do the same. The neck shows heavy swelling, and the legs appear too short for the body. Tarsal glands are very heavily stained.

Age Estimate: 6 ½-Plus-Year-Old Buck

Now a bona fide mature deer, a 6 ½-plus-year-old buck’s body is taking on a new shape. It now carries approximately 100% of its antler potential but could grow its largest rack at age 7 ½ or 8 ½. This deer is distinctly different from younger bucks. The difference can be quite staggering.

Its head appears very short and very thick. Weight distribution makes it seem as if the buck’s front is much heavier than the rear end. The back and belly exhibit significant sagging. The neck is extremely swollen. The legs appear much too short for the body. And tarsal glands are extremely stained.

Aging a Harvested Deer

Hunters aren’t limited and restricted to aging deer on the hoof. Although there is no catch and release in hunting, hunters can certainly ground check their bucks, too, which is the act of determining the size, age, and gender of a deer or other game species once it is dead. There are two good ways to do this and a third option that works for supportive reassurance.

Skull Plate Thickness

Speaking of supportive efforts, those who skullcap their bucks will notice older deer exhibit significant increases in skull plate thickness. Generally speaking, the older a deer gets, the thicker its bones and skull plate becomes. The skull plate for young deer is more fragile, while older deer have thicker skulls. In theory, the skull plate aging method works, but when aging deer this way, it’s difficult to measure and it’s definitely not an exact science. If you want to be more accurate, tooth replacement and wear, as well as cementum annuli are the best routes to go.

Tooth Replacement and Wear Method

In contrast, tooth replacement and wear is an excellent and more common method for aging bucks after the harvest compared to on the hoof. This method was developed by C. W. Severinghaus in 1949 (1) and is sometimes referred to as the Severinghaus technique. The bottom jaw changes as deer age. The first step in determining the age of a deer with the tooth replacement and wear technique is counting teeth. Here’s a breakdown centered around tooth characteristics, as well as a video going through deer teeth wear from the Pennsylvania Game Commission.

Fawn Teeth

Fawns have five (or fewer) jaw teeth, and the third premolar has only three cusps. For a fawn 3 to 4 months old, either the first molar is just starting to show, or isn’t showing yet. A fawn that’s 4 to 6 months old has its first molar erupted but its second is not seen. For fawns that are 7 to 9 months old, the second molar is now starting to show or fully erupted, but the third molar can’t be seen.

1½-Year-Old Deer Teeth

Deer or yearlings that are 1 ½-years-old likely have six jaw teeth along the bottom jaw, the third molar is starting to show, and the third premolar tooth has significant wear, having three cusps.

2½-Year-Old Deer Teeth

Once it reaches 2 ½, the third tooth has only two cusps, and the crests are sharp and pointed. There is minimal wear showing on molars.

3½-Year-Old Deer Teeth

At 3 ½, the slight wearing of the permanent teeth is visible, and slight concavity is present. The cusps of the first molar show substantial wear and the third molar is fairly level.

4½-Year-Old Deer Teeth

Most 4 ½-year-old bucks exhibit noticeable tooth wear and often slope heavily downward toward the jawbone. The cusps on the first two molars will have significant wear.

5½-Year-Old Deer Teeth

The same holds true for 5 ½-year-old deer, as the teeth become significantly blunted and worn. All three molars will show significant wear.

6½-Year-Old Deer Teeth

Once deer reach 6 ½ and older, the teeth are worn down smooth, or flattened, and little enamel shows. Eventually, the teeth will wear down very close to the jawbone.

Cementum Annuli Aging

Lastly, the best and most accurate method for aging deer is called cementum annuli (CA). In short, cementum is the connective tissue that forms on the root surface of most teeth.

During the life of a whitetail, as well as other mammals, cementum forms layers or rings, similar to growth rings that you would see in tree trunks. These rings are visible microscopically and form a pattern that wildlife aging experts can use to determine deer ages.

To have a professional age your deer, you would need to remove teeth from the lower jaw and send them off to be examined in a laboratory setting. Once there, the lab studies the teeth and tooth wear to age them. It costs approximately $50 per deer, and two of the most used labs include Matson’s Laboratory and Wildlife Analytical Laboratories.

Appendix

Cementum – A protective hard tissue that surrounds the root of each tooth.Anulli – Layers that are formed over the root of a tooth that are used in the process to age individual deer.Cusps – A point or ridge of a tooth, when viewed from the side.Crest – The top of the cusps or ridges of a tooth.Dentin – That part of the tooth that is beneath enamel and cementumEnamel – The white part of a tooth.Molar – The three permanent teeth in the rear of the deer’s jaw.On the Hoof – Alive, not yet harvested.Premolar – The three teeth in front of the jaw that are replaced by permanent teeth.Skullcap – The top part of the skull.Tarsal Gland – Found on bucks and does, the tarsal gland is a pad of stiff hairs located on the inside of each deer’s rear leg. The gland secretes an oily material that coats the hair, making it darker.

References Cited

1. Severinghaus CW. Tooth development and wear as criteria of age in white-tailed deer. Journal of Wildlife Management. 1949;13(2):195-216.

The best crossbow broadhead for deer in 2024 is the Muzzy Trocar for its incomparable penetration and accuracy on large game.

Once so simple, choosing your crossbow broadhead has become far more complex over the past years, with the introduction of new technology to add more ‘functionality’ to the best crossbow broadheads available.

Choosing the right broadhead is a personal decision, not only depending on the shooting conditions (distance, wind), but also personal preference regarding desired penetration, accuracy, wound channel and blood trail.

You can only glean so much information online, so honestly, my best advice is to read the reviews, and then get out there and try the different broadheads until you find one that you love.

Our crossbow broadheads review covers the:

• NAP Spitfire Crossbow
• Swhacker 100-grain 2-inch-cut Mechanical Broadheads
• G5 Outdoors Montec Fixed-blade Broadheads
• Excalibur Boltcutter Fixed-blade Broadheads
• Muzzy Trocar Fixed-blade Broadheads

Best Crossbow Broadheads Features

First of all I’ve rounded up some definitions of terms you’ll hear often when talking about crossbow broadheads throughout the reviews:

Cutting diameter

It refers to the minimum potential wound size a broadhead can cause, or in other words the width measurement from blade tip edge to blade tip edge.

In theory a wider diameter has more chance of damaging important tissue and reaching vital organs, although there is a possible trade off with accuracy (more surface area for the wind to take hold) and penetration (less likely to enter the animal so far).

Shock collars

A small ring placed below the broadhead where it fixes to the arrow which a) keeps the broadhead steadily in place and b) absorbs shock upon impact in order to protect the broadhead.

Grain weight

Broadhead weight is measured in grains, and most will come in both 100-grain and 125-grain options, maybe even up to 150. I generally recommend the 100-grain for best accuracy over 20-50 yards, and the 125-150s for upwards of 50-60.

The 125-grain will also provide more penetration on bigger game, and given the shorter arrows used for crossbows, can provide more weight to the front of the arrow (“front-over-center” balance), maintaining stability and reducing cross-wind influence.

Blade Tip

There are two options here, either chisel-tips which are designed for a big impact on big game, with thick hides – fur, fat and bone. Or, you can opt for the cut-on-contact tip, which aims to slice immediately with deep penetration. See informative discussion here.

Number of blades

Broadheads generally come in one, two or three-blade variations. Arguably, the two-blade achieves better penetration, and the three-blade increases the wound channel. For this reason (but not always), you would do better with two-blades for bigger game to penetrate deep and split bone.

Honestly though, there are other more important factors such as where you hit the prey, with what force, cutting diameter, what type of broadhead, and at what angle.

Fixed-blade or mechanical

Fixed-blades are traditional arrowheads where the broadhead blade is firmly attached to the head. There are also some ‘removable’ fixed-blade broadheads which allow you to replace a single blade, rather than the whole broadhead.

Mechanical broadheads have retractable blades which come out on impact, making the arrow flight as uninterrupted and aerodynamic as possible.

Fixed-blade or mechanical crossbow broadheads: what should I use?

Up until recently I’d have said that the fixed-blade won hands down every time. However, the mechanical broadhead is becoming more and more effective, giving experienced hunters a headache when faced with the choice.

Although mechanical broadheads are good 90% of the time, I know few people that would opt for a mechanical broadhead when faced with that really tough, make or break shot to take down the biggest game – it’s just too unreliable.

That said, maybe this perception is changing little by little, so let’s look at the facts regarding fixed-blade and mechanical broadheads.

How do mechanical broadheads work?

When an arrow is flying through the air towards its target, the more surface area that the broadhead has, the more susceptible to influence from crosswinds it will be, taking it off-course.

Step up the mechanical broadhead.

The idea of a mechanical broadhead is to reduce the surface area of the broadhead and improve on aerodynamic drag, by retracting the blades until the moment of impact, upon which the blades deploy to further increase the damage.

If the blades are withdrawn during flight, this should also improve concentricity. Concentricity is essentially the arrow spinning perfectly through the air around its centre, ensuring that the mechanical blades don’t deploy while in the air, before impact.

Ideally an arrow is steered by its fletching at the back, however what’s known as planing can occur, where the wide-surface-area broadhead takes control of the arrow’s flight path, causing long-distance inefficiencies.

A mechanical broadhead is forgiving on beginner hunters or poorly tuned crossbows.

It sounds wonderful, however mechanical broadheads have their drawbacks. These mechanical heads have a tendency not to deploy, or may come apart upon impact, ultimately failing to penetrate sufficiently and leaving the animal in distress, or getting away.

Fixed-blade broadheads

What the fixed-blade makes up for is clinical impact, or in other words strength and penetration.

These days fixed-heads have excellent designs, which make them exceptionally aerodynamic to the point where they may even match mechanical broadheads, a lot of the time.

A question of quality

Mechanical broadheads generally fail for one of two reasons.

Either the blades do not retract, and therefore they remain exposed during the flight, subjecting the arrow to influence by the wind.

Or they malfunction on impact. A high-quality design uses high-quality mechanical blades which are better fixed to the broadhead, or may even be heat-treated so that they bend, instead of snapping off.

Making sure that the broadheads you purchase are made of steel instead of aluminium will help with concentricity, too.

Choosing the best crossbow broadheads for your crossbow

The best crossbow broadheads are designed with the following functions in mind:

Penetration

An arrow may kill in any one of the following ways:

• Blood loss
• Damage to the nervous system
• Destruction of vital organs
• Septicemia or asphyxiation

The further through an animal the projectile goes, the more likely the hunter to achieve their goal of an ethical kill.

Questions to ask yourself:

• How deep into the animal does your arrow seat itself?
• Does it go all the way through, causing faster bleeding and a faster, more ethical death?
• How does the crossbow broadhead contribute to that penetration?

Accuracy

Accuracy speaks for itself. we want to be accurate to not only hit our prey, but hit it exactly where we want to for an ethical kill.

Questions to ask yourself when reviewing the best crossbow broadheads:

• How well does the bolt and broadhead leave the crossbow?
• How many touch points are there with the crossbow which could alter its course on the way out?
• Does the broadhead’s form (surface area) make it more or less susceptible to influence by the conditions, such as wind or rain?
• Once the bolt leaves the crossbow, how does the broadhead affect the bolt’s concentricity? Does it spin more or less evenly for a true aim? Mechanical broadheads are particularly guilty of unbalancing an arrow.

Wound channel

Wound channel refers to the size of the channel made by the arrow, through the prey. An arrow kills in any one of the following ways:

• Blood loss
• Damage to the nervous system
• Destruction of vital organs
• Septicemia or asphyxiation

For an ethical kill, a large wound channel is more likely to achieve its goal. Does the crossbow broadhead help to achieve this?

Blood trail

More blood makes it easier to track game after you shoot them. The best designed crossbow broadheads, aside from causing a large wound channel, maintain heavy blood loss so as to track the animal easily.

• Best crossbow in 2024
• Fastest crossbow in 2024

Best Crossbow Broadhead in 2024 Reviews

The following best crossbow broadheads ratings are in no particular order, as the best depends on the game you are hunting, expected shooting distances and your experience.

NAP Spitfire Crossbow Review

Use on: small to medium-sized game over all distances

If you’re looking for a mechanical broadhead which flies like a field point and leaves a great blood trail, then the NAP Spitfire could well be the broadhead for you.

When I tested them, I had good penetration working with the 125-gr, maybe as it has a slightly smaller cutting diameter of 1.5 inches.

This nonetheless provides a reasonable wound channel and large enough blood trail to track the animal. If you get good contact though it won’t get very far thanks to the ‘Trophy Tip’ which is designed to penetrate on larger game.

Nonetheless, I’d probably use these broadheads on small to medium-sized game. The combination of the penetrative tip, decent cutting diameter and mechanical action make it perfect for deer hunting.

It has three cut-on-contact diamize sharpened blades, and the ferrule on the spitfire has microgrooves for enhanced accuracy and penetration.

Pros

• best mechanical broadhead for crossbow
• Best crossbow broadheads for deer
• Decent blood trail

Cons

• The blades have a tendency to open while stalking game

>> Check Price on Amazon <<

Swhacker 100-grain 2-inch-cut Mechanical Broadheads Review

Use on: small to medium-sized game over all distances

The Swhacker set of 3 broadheads are dependable mechanical broadheads, almost guaranteed to deploy thanks to their solid design.

It has a hardened high-carbon-steel, cut-on-contact, two-blade point which is razor sharp. Once you look past the initial point, you’ll find a first set of wing blades designed to cut straight through hide and the first set of ribs.

Once contact has been made, this first set of blades helps to deploy the second set of edges which don’t touch anything during initial penetration, instead opening only once inside the game, to wreak havoc on the animal’s internal organs. You won’t see too many animals make it more than 100 yards before coming to a halt.

On top of this, the Swhacker has a massive cutting diameter of 2 inches. Even if your aim is slightly off, you’re bound to hit a vital organ and bring your game down.

I found the broadhead to demonstrate solid penetration and durability, and I even found (impressively) that it could hang onto the target when tested at angles, too.

I’d use this happily on any small or medium-sized game over all distances. Find out more about the Swhacker brand and all their crossbow broadheads.

Pros

• Great penetration from angles
• Wide cutting diameter
• Unique design

Cons

• Accuracy: had strange outlier from grouping during testing which was so disappointing as I really liked this broadhead

>> Check Price on Amazon <<

G5 Outdoors Montec Fixed-blade Broadheads Review

Use on: medium to large-sized game over all distances

I would be happy to use these G5 Montec broadheads on deer, no problem. In fact, you could even make a case for use on bear and elk, as the blade angle of the Montec is designed for solid penetration, along with a thinner, more penetrative cutting diameter of 1 1/16 inches.

Despite a reduced wound channel, you’ll get a decent blood trail from heavy penetration which should easily make its way through the animal, especially over shorter distances.

Often overlooked, it’s a really simple broadhead to use – you just screw it on and shoot, and it also allows for easy sharpening, meaning you can get good (re)use out of it.

This was important, as I found that it could definitely do with a little more sharpening straight out of the box.

This 100% stainless steel broadhead is spin-tested to ensure the required weight and centricity to perform over long distances.

Pros

• One solid unbreakable piece
• Good for small, medium and large game

Cons

• Blunted out of the box

>> Check Price on Amazon <<

Excalibur Boltcutter Fixed-blade Broadheads Review

Use on: medium to large-sized game over all distances

I really like the Excalibur Boltcutter, in fact until I did all these recent tests it was (and maybe still will be) my fallback broadhead, whenever I wanted to feel 100% confident.

It’s got a 3-blade head with a small 1 1/16-inch diameter to maximize penetration at all distances; it’s deadly for the very biggest game out there.

It has been designed to improve accuracy over 300 FPS, stabilizing quickly as it leaves the bow.

It’s made of stainless steel to withstand high impacts and improve penetration, and it represents the perfect blend of strength, speed and accuracy.

It’s one drawback is that it costs a little more than most blades, but you can replace the individual blades, or even reuse the blades by sharpening the whole head to offset the cost and get more use out of them.

Pros

• Optimized penetration
• Enhanced accuracy over distances
• withstands high impact
• streamlined design

Cons

• Expensive

>> Check Price on Amazon <<

Muzzy Trocar Fixed-blade Review

Use on: medium to large-sized game over all distances

The Muzzy Trocar is a three-blade fixed broadhead with a short stubby nose. The arrowhead has less surface area allowing for better arrow flight.

The hardened steel Trocar head-tip achieves extreme penetration, and the ferrule – built from solid steel – won’t buckle when striking bone, making it the perfect choice for large game.

It doesn’t compromise on accuracy either, thanks to the special right-helix design for solid stability; Muzzy claim they fly just like field tips, and from our experience with them, they aren’t wrong. When I tested it this broadhead achieved both the insane grouping, and massive penetration.

I like this broadhead because it’s completely customizable too. You can change the blade between three cutting diameters, between 1 inch and 1 1/14inches.

Pros

• Best crossbow broadheads for accuracy
• Best crossbow broadheads for penetration

Cons

• N/A

>> Check Price on Amazon <<

Conclusion: the best crossbow broadheads

I found the level to be really high, and any misgivings that I had in the past about mechanical broadheads are slowly going away.

I’d even go so far as to recommend the Swhacker mechanical broadhead as the best crossbow broadheads for small game over any distance, with the Spitfire not far behind.

I liked the mechanical so much with small game because pretty much any hit with the two-inch cutting diameter would be enough to take down the animal, and the arrows would be forgiving thanks to their improved aerodynamicity.

There’s a good argument for the Swhacker or Spitfire moving up to medium-sized game like deer too. I think this is then a question of personal preference, where you should really try out both types and see what works with your crossbow specifications and personal needs.

When I moved up to large game, I decided that you can’t look any further than the Muzzy Trocar. It won hands down for penetration and accuracy, which for me are the two most important factors when shooting big game over any distance.

There’s a ton of options out there nowadays when it comes to selecting a riflescope. You have MOA, MIL, various magnifications, different objectives, tube sizes and a ton more. But one of the hardest decisions seems to be around what focal plane to select.

In the past, I’ve always used second focal plane riflescopes for hunting. They have worked great for me on my rifles and I’ve taken a ton of animals with them, but a few years ago I wanted to try something new so I switched to a first focal plane system. Mainly this switch happened because I wanted to help people out with their decisions so I could better explain what option might work best for them and my opinion on them. They both work great, but I wanted to have real-world experience behind each design.

What is a first focal plane (FFP) riflescope?

For starters, we need to define a first focal plane riflescope. This is probably the scope version that most people in hunting are a little unfamiliar with. On a first focal plane riflescope, the reticle grows as the image gets bigger when increasing magnification and it does so at the same rate. And as you decrease magnification, the reticle also shrinks as the image gets smaller. This is all because the reticle is located in front of the magnifying lens assembly in the scope.

A first focal plane riflescope also means you can always use those hash marks on the reticle for any elevation holdover or windage no matter what magnification you are on. This can be great if you don’t have time to dial in your turret in a hunting situation and you need to use the hashmarks.

As I stated earlier, the first focal plane riflescope was new to me a few years ago. And since the switch, I don’t know if I’ll ever go back.

The only downside I see is when you’re at super low magnification the reticle is almost too small to see, especially if you’re in thick timber or hunting in low light. I really notice this on my Razor HD Gen II 4.5-27×56 riflescope that is in a first focal plane setup when I go down to 4.5 power. To deal with this, if you’re hunting in a state that allows an illuminated reticle to hunt with, the illumination could allow you to make use of low power in the thick timber on a first focal plane setup. But for the most part, I don’t see this as a hindrance at all since 95% of the time I’m not hunting in thick timber at lower power. But it’s just something you should think about if you’re going to purchase a new riflescope.

Possibly one other downside is if you’re trying to shoot at a very small target in practice at a longer distance because your reticle may block the target due to it getting larger at max power. I’ve seen this happen when I’ve been practicing out in the desert while aiming at something really small and and trying to be very precise.

One of the biggest benefits of a first focal plane riflescope is if you need to quickly make a shot and need to use the elevation or windage lines in the scope, this is when a first focal plane riflescope will shine. For the most part, since I’m a hunter first and not a competition precision rifle shooter, these situations are a little rare for a hunter to need to quickly use elevation holdover marks, but it’s nice to have that feature if you’re ever in this situation on the buck of a lifetime.

Cost is another consideration. Usually, a first focal plane riflescope is a little more expensive than a second focal plane riflescope.

What is a second focal plane (SFP) riflescope?

Second focal plane riflescope is what everyone is most likely used to in hunting. The biggest thing you’ll notice on a second focal plane riflescope is the reticle stays the same size, and the target grows as you increase the magnification. This is due to the reticle being located behind the magnifying lens.

A second focal plane riflescope seems to be nicer to aim through because you have a finer aiming point due to the reticle staying small as you hit full magnification which is great when practicing long-range shots as your reticle isn’t covering up the spot you are trying to aim at.

The one main downside of a second focal plane riflescope is when dealing with adjusting the magnification to anything other than max power and using the reticle for any holdover or windage when taking a shot. If your second focal plane riflescope is set for max power, that means that the holdover lines in the reticle are only dialed in at that one magnification and will not be at the correct yardages if you drop to a lower magnification. So if you drop to a lower magnification and use the holdover lines, it won’t be to scale and you’ll miss the target. So to fix this, if you want to use any of the hashmarks, you must remember that it is only truly calibrated at max magnification.

Keep in mind… that no matter what, in a second focal plane riflescope you can always dial your turrets and use the center of the reticle no matter the magnification you are on. This change in impact discussed above is when using any of the hashmarks outside of the center of the reticle when you are on anything but max power.

This is why whenever I’m hunting, I’ll always shoot at an animal at the highest magnification. Second focal plane riflescopes have worked wonders for a ton of hunters throughout the years. Again, remember that dialing up on the turret on a second focal plane riflescope works perfectly if you just aim at the center dot of the reticle no matter what magnification you are on.

In summary, if you use a second focal plane scope and you want to use the holdover hashmarks, know it will be only valid for one magnification.

If I’m going to need to use the windage or elevation marks in my riflescope, 99.99% of the time I’m going to be at full magnification which means everything will be accurate in a second focal plane setup.

The way I’d explain my reasoning for a second focal plane scope for a lot of years is this; pretty much any shot over 300 yards I’m going to be at full magnification. So at that point, it really doesn’t matter what riflescope plane I’m using since I will be at full magnification and would be able to use the hashmarks on a second focal plane if needed, and I would also have the same benefits of a first focal.

Below is a quick series of graphics to help showcase some of the differences side by side at low magnification and high magnification.

5x magnification

25x magnification

Once again, on the first focal plane riflescope on the 25x power example, you’ll notice that the reticle grows as the image gets bigger due to adding magnification and it does so at the same rate. And on the second focal plane image, the reticle stays the same size as you increase the magnification.

In closing

One last thing I should mention, if you have a riflescope with turrets in either first or second focal plane, it does not matter what magnification you are if you aim using the center of the reticle. You will still make an impact with the correct distance dialed in the turret. You could be at low magnification on a second focal plane riflescope and dial in for a shot with the turret and make an impact. Then you could dial in for a longer shot using the turret and crank the magnification all the way up and still impact the target aiming at the center.

So what do I prefer after using both?

At this point after using both for a long time now in hunting and practice, I’m still leaning toward first focal plane riflescopes. My dad, who also is very into rifles and long range shooting for practice and hunting, doesn’t like second focal plane scopes at all anymore either. Then if you’d ask my brother who I shoot with a ton… he prefers second focal plane on his hunting setup.

So at the end of the day, both focal planes will absolutely work wonders for hunting, it just comes down to what your eyes might prefer and your use case.

If you have the ability, find a friend who has a different scope than you do and really look at a first focal plane and second focal plane side by side. This is going to be the easiest way to determine what style you prefer.

Don’t forget, if you ever have any questions about anything optics, you can reach out to our Optics Manager Cody Nelson. He is a wealth of knowledge and a person you should take advantage of when deciding what optics to purchase. Cody can be reached at [email protected] or call him at (702) 847-8747 | Ext. 2.

Check out all the riflescope options we carry here

Making your own gaff is a fun and relatively inexpensive project that almost anyone can do with basic tools and components. It allows for personal customization, and the satisfaction of sticking a fish with a gaff that you made is second to none!

Materials

• 

  Handle

• Gaff hook
• Paracord, hockey tape, or heat shrink for grip
• Electrical tape
• Wire (Like the type to hang pictures)
• Two-part epoxy
• Drill and various drill bits
• Spray paint

First thing is to choose what size gaff hook would be best suited for the type of fishing. For smaller fish like bluefish, mahi, false albacore, or bonito, a 2- to 3-inch hook would be more than adequate. If you’re building something bigger strictly for tuna, shark, and other large offshore species, a 3- to 4-inch hook might be better. That said, a good all-around size is 3 inches which can be purchased at most tackle shops for between $5 and $10. Choosing the best material for the gaff handle is also important. Some people prefer bamboo since it is flexible and strong. Others like rigid handles like broomsticks; hockey sticks, broken rods, or almost anything else can be used as a handle, as long it is durable. The length can be customized, anywhere from a 1-foot lip gaff to an 8-foot reacher is possible. I believe 3- to 5-foot is a good multi-purpose length handle.

Hold the hook up against the handle and determine where the barb is going to be stuck into the handle. Mark it on the handle; then drill a hole in the handle so the barb fits in there and then outline the shank of the hook on the handle. Remove the hook; then, while holding a drill bit or routing bit on top of the handle lengthwise (parallel to the handle), burr out the outline of the hook shank so that way there is a channel where the shank will sit. Be careful if using bamboo or a somewhat hollow material not to go all the way through; just a little indentation will work fine. Mix some two-part epoxy and put some in the hole for the barb and channel for the shank. Lay the gaff hook in its place and wrap tightly with wire. Epoxy should also be added on top of the wire and hook for extra durability. Let the epoxy cure and harden fully. Once the epoxy is fully dried, it is time to wrap the shank and wire. Before doing this, it might be a good idea to hit the area with a quick coat of spray paint to seal up any exposed wire or hook shank that is showing. This will help prevent corrosion to those areas. The color doesn’t matter since it will be covered up anyway. Depending on the handle material, that could also be painted; it is good to paint wooden handles in particular as a sealant and to prevent the wood from getting waterlogged.

After the paint dries, it’s time to wrap the epoxy, wire, and hook shank. For this, electrical tape, heat shrink, or even paracord/string works fine. This is mainly for aesthetic purposes and doesn’t add too much support. The epoxy, wire, and barb are what mainly holds the gaff hook. Having some type of grip on the handle is important, especially if the wood is painted or the material is slippery. Remember, the user’s hands will most likely be wet. Figure out where the gaff handle is naturally gripped when you’re about to stick a fish and add the grips there. The grip can be anything from paracord wrapped around, hockey tape, or heat shrink rod grips; all work great! If using paracord or some sort of rope/string to make a grip, it is important to wrap it tight and finish off the ends with epoxy, so they don’t come undone. What’s nice about this gaff is that it’s something you made and is completely tailored to your liking. Next time NOAA’s offshore forecast leaves you stuck at home, give it a shot!

King crab is a highly sought-after delicacy known for its sweet and succulent meat. However, the price of a whole king crab can vary greatly depending on various factors. In this article, we will delve into the factors determining the worth of a king crab, providing you with a better understanding of its value in the market.

Understanding The Value Of Whole King Crab

The value of a whole king crab goes beyond its taste and culinary appeal. Several factors contribute to its worth in the market. These factors include:

1. Size: The size of the king crab plays a significant role in determining its value. Larger crabs are generally more valuable as they yield more meat, making them desirable among consumers.
2. Quality: The quality of the king crab is another crucial factor. High-quality crabs are characterized by their firm texture, vibrant color, and fresh taste. Crabs that meet these criteria are often priced higher due to their superior taste and overall appeal.
3. Availability: The availability of king crab can also impact its worth. King crab is a seasonal delicacy, and its availability varies yearly. During peak seasons, when the supply is limited and the demand is high, the price of whole king crab tends to be higher.

Factors That Determine King Crab’s Worth

Several factors determine the worth of a whole king crab. These factors include:

1. Fishing Regulations: Fishing regulations and restrictions imposed by governing bodies can affect the supply of king crab. Quotas and fishing seasons can limit the availability of king crab, potentially driving up its price.
2. Sustainability: The sustainability of king crab fishing practices also influences its worth. Sustainable fishing methods ensure the long-term viability of the crab population and help maintain the ecological balance of marine ecosystems. King crab harvested through sustainable practices may be priced higher due to the added value associated with responsible sourcing.
3. Market Demand: Market demand plays a crucial role in determining the worth of a whole king crab. High demand for king crab can drive up its price, especially during special occasions and festive seasons when seafood consumption is at its peak.
4. Geographic Location: The geographic location where king crab is harvested can also affect its worth. Different regions may have varying costs associated with fishing, processing, and transportation, which can impact the product’s final price.

Understanding the factors contributing to a king crab’s worth can help consumers make informed purchasing decisions. It is essential to consider the size, quality, availability, fishing regulations, sustainability, market demand, and geographic origin when evaluating the worth of a king crab in the market.

By taking these factors into account, you can ensure that you are getting the best value for your money when purchasing a whole king crab. So, the next time you indulge in this delectable seafood delight, you’ll better understand what determines its worth.

King Crab Prices

Average King Crab Prices Per Pound

The cost of a whole king crab can vary depending on several factors, such as size, quality, and availability. On average, a whole king crab can range from $25 to $70 per pound. However, it’s important to note that these prices can fluctuate based on location and the vendor you purchase them from. Here is a breakdown of the average prices per pound for king crab:

• In Alaska, where king crab is abundant, you can expect to pay around $25 to $45 per pound, making it one of the more affordable options.
• Norway, known for its high-quality king crab with larger and meatier legs, offers king crab at a higher price range of $40 to $70 per pound.
• Russia, another major player in the king crab market, provides large and flavorful king crab legs with an average price range of $30 to $50 per pound.
• Renowned for its top-notch seafood, Japan offers premium-quality king crab at a higher price point of $70 to $100 per pound.

These prices are just averages and can vary depending on the specific market conditions and individual vendors.

Variation In King Crab Costs

Several factors, including the size, quality, and availability of the catch can influence the variation in king crab costs. Here are a few factors that can contribute to the fluctuation in king crab prices:

1. Location: The price of king crab can vary based on the region where it is caught and sold. Different countries may have different production costs and trade regulations, affecting the overall price.
2. Season: King crab season typically kicks off in October in Alaska. The time of year can impact the availability of king crab and subsequently influence the price. Off-season prices may be higher due to limited supply.
3. Grade and Size: King crab is graded based on the number of legs that create a specific weight. The grading can impact the price, with larger and higher-grade crabs generally commanding a higher price.
4. Sustainability: Sustainable fishing practices can have an impact on the availability and price of king crab. Some fisheries have certifications indicating responsible fishing methods, which can affect the market price.
5. Market Demand: Overall demand for king crab can also affect the price. Changes in consumer preferences and global events, such as the COVID-19 pandemic, may result in fluctuating demand and subsequent price changes.

It’s important to consider these factors when evaluating the cost of a whole king crab. Prices can vary widely, so it’s advisable to research and compare prices from different vendors to ensure you are getting the best deal.

For more information on king crab pricing and the factors that influence it, you can visit howmuchisit.org or globalseafoods.com.

Factors Affecting King Crab Worth

Several factors that can affect its price influence a whole king crab’s worth. Understanding these factors can help consumers make informed decisions when purchasing king crab. Here are two significant factors that affect the worth of king crab:

Harvesting Quotas And Supply

The quantity of king crab available for harvest and the quotas set by regulatory bodies play a crucial role in determining its worth. The crab population’s health and sustainability are essential considerations, and quotas are adjusted accordingly. If there is a decrease in the population, quotas may be lowered to protect the species and maintain the supply. This can result in higher prices due to reduced availability. On the other hand, if the population is robust and quotas are increased, prices may stabilize or even decrease due to higher supply.

In addition to quotas, external factors such as climate change can also impact the worth of king crab. Warmer waters or environmental changes can affect crab habitats and reproduction, decreasing supply and potentially driving prices up.

Foreign Trade And Market Demand

The global market demand for king crab, especially from countries like Japan, Russia, and the United States, can significantly impact its worth. Trade practices and regulations between countries can also influence prices. For example, if a country with a large king crab supply, such as Russia, has fewer regulations or sustainability practices compared to other countries, they may be able to sell their king crab at a lower price. This can create price disparities between different sources of king crab.

Foreign trade relationships and policies can also affect the worth of king crab. Trade disputes, tariffs, or changes in market conditions can result in fluctuations in prices. The demand for king crab in various countries can also change over time, reflecting shifts in consumer preferences and economic factors.

It is important to note that while king crab can be a luxury ingredient with a higher price tag, its taste and quality are highly regarded by seafood enthusiasts. Each factor influencing king crab’s worth contributes to this delicacy’s unique market dynamics.

You can refer to reliable seafood industry sources and market reports for more information on king crab and its worth.

King Crab Market Trends

Historical Changes In King Crab Prices

The price of king crab can vary significantly over time due to various factors such as supply and demand, fishing regulations, and market conditions. Here are some key historical trends in king crab prices:

• In recent years, the price of king crab has generally been on an upward trend. This can be attributed to increased demand, limited supply, and rising production costs.
• In Alaska, one of the main sources of king crab, the price has seen fluctuations over the years. The average price ranges from $25 to $45 per pound. However, it’s important to note that prices can vary depending on the catch’s size, quality, and availability.
• Norway, another major producer of king crab, is known for its premium quality crab. The average price in Norway can range from $40 to $70 per pound, making it one of the more expensive options on the market.
• Russia, a significant player in the king crab market, offers a mid-range price option. On average, the price in Russia can range from $30 to $50 per pound.
• Renowned for its high-quality seafood, Japan offers king crab at a premium price. The average price in Japan can range from $70 to $100 per pound, making it one of the most expensive options in the world.

Current Market Situation

As of now, the global king crab market is experiencing stability in terms of supply and demand. Here are some key insights into the current market situation:

• The price of king crab may vary depending on the country of origin, size, and quality of the crab.
• The retail price range for king crab in the United States is between $13 and $24 per kilogram or between $5.9 and $10.88 per pound.
• The market price for king crab in different countries can be influenced by factors such as transportation costs, import/export regulations, and local demand.
• It’s important to consider factors such as freshness, sustainability, and personal budget when purchasing king crab.
• King crab remains a coveted delicacy for seafood lovers around the world, and many consider it worth the price due to its delicious taste and impressive size.

To stay up to date with the latest market trends and prices for king crab, it is recommended to consult reputable seafood markets and specialty stores, both online and offline.

Source: King Crab Price Around the World: How Does it Compare?

King Crab Worth Calculation

Methods For Estimating King Crab’s Value

Calculating the worth of a king crab involves considering various factors contributing to its cost. Here are some methods used to estimate the value of a king crab:

1. Weight: One of the primary factors determining the worth of a whole king crab is its weight. The heavier the crab, the higher its price tends to be.

2. Size and Grades: King crabs are classified into different sizes and grades based on their quality and characteristics. The larger and higher-grade crabs are generally more expensive.

3. Market Demand: The demand for king crab, whether in domestic or international markets, significantly affects its value. Higher demand often leads to higher prices.

4. Seasonal Availability: King crab fishing is regulated by seasons, and the availability of king crab can fluctuate throughout the year. When supply is limited during certain seasons, prices tend to be higher.

5. Geographic Location: The location from which the king crab is sourced can also affect its worth. Different regions have their own market dynamics and costs associated with harvesting and transportation.

Comparison Of Whole King Crab Costs

The cost of a whole king crab can vary depending on several factors, including size, grade, and market conditions. Here is a comparison of the approximate costs for different varieties of whole king crab:

1. Alaskan Red King Crab:

• Average weight: 6-10 pounds
• Price range: $40-$50 per pound
• Availability: The most common variety of king crab

2. Alaskan Golden King Crab:

• Average weight: 3-6 pounds
• Price range: $50-$60 per pound
• Availability: Smaller in size compared to red king crab

3. Alaskan Blue King Crab:

• Average weight: 3-5 pounds
• Price range: $70-$80 per pound
• Availability: Less common and known for its distinct blue coloring

It’s important to note that these prices are approximate and can vary depending on market conditions, location, and other factors. Additionally, prices may be subject to change and can be higher during peak seasons or for larger-sized crabs.

When purchasing a whole king crab, it’s advisable to buy from reputable seafood suppliers who ensure quality and freshness. This guarantees that you are getting a fair value for your purchase.

Understanding the worth of a whole king crab can help you make informed decisions when buying and also give you a greater appreciation for the factors that contribute to its cost. So, whether you’re planning a special seafood feast or looking to indulge in a gourmet dining experience, knowing the value of a whole king crab can guide your choices.

FAQ: How Much Is a Whole King Crab Worth?

Q: How much does a whole king crab cost? A: The cost of a whole king crab can vary depending on several factors, such as size, location, and availability. On average, I plan on spending anywhere from $250 to $400 for a whole king crab.

Q: What is the average weight of a whole king crab? A: The average weight of a whole king crab is around 5 pounds.

Q: Where can I purchase a whole king crab? A: Whole king crabs can be purchased from various sources such as seafood markets, grocery stores, and online seafood suppliers. Some popular options include Costco, Sam’s Club, and reputable seafood websites.

Q: Do the prices of whole king crabs vary in different regions? A: Yes, the prices of whole king crabs can vary depending on your location. Factors such as shipping costs and availability can influence the price in different regions.

Q: How do I cook a whole king crab? A: Whole king crabs can be cooked by boiling, steaming, baking, or grilling. The cooking method and time may vary, so it’s recommended to follow a trusted recipe or seek advice from a seafood expert for the best results.

Q: Is buying a whole king crab more cost-effective than individual legs? A: Buying a whole king crab can be more cost-effective compared to purchasing individual legs, especially if you plan to consume a larger quantity or serve a larger group of people. However, it ultimately depends on your specific needs and preferences.

Q: Are there any alternatives to whole king crab that offer a similar taste? A: Yes, alternative crab options such as snow crab or Dungeness crab offer a similar taste and can be more affordable than whole king crab. These alternatives are also popular among seafood enthusiasts.

Q: Can I purchase a whole king crab online? A: Yes, whole king crabs are available for purchase online from reputable seafood suppliers. However, it’s important to be cautious of the source and ensure that you are buying from a trusted seller to guarantee quality and freshness.

Q: Are there any additional costs associated with purchasing a whole king crab online? A: Additional costs such as shipping fees and minimum order requirements may exist when purchasing a whole king crab online. It’s important to review the terms and conditions of the online retailer before making a purchase.

Q: Is a whole king crab worth the price? A: The worthiness of a whole king crab is a subjective matter. Whole king crabs are known for their large size, meaty legs, and delicious flavor. If you are a seafood enthusiast with a discerning palate and can afford the splurge, a whole king crab can be a delectable treat. However, alternative crab choices are available if you are on a budget or looking for more affordable options. Ultimately, the decision of whether a whole king crab is worth it or not depends on your personal preferences, budget, and occasion.

Conclusion

After considering the various factors determining the worth of a king crab, it is evident that the price can vary significantly depending on factors such as size, quality, availability, and location. Here is a summary of the key takeaways:

• The standard price per pound for king crab ranges from $60 to $70, but this can vary based on market conditions and other factors.
• Alaska is known for its abundant king crab population and offers relatively affordable options compared to other countries, with prices ranging from $25 to $45 per pound.
• Norway is known for its superior quality king crab, but it comes at a higher price range of $40 to $70 per pound.
• Russia offers a mid-range option with prices ranging from $30 to $50 per pound, and it is known for its large and flavorful king crab.
• Japan offers premium quality king crab, but it is the most expensive option, with prices ranging from $70 to $100 per pound.

When determining the worth of a whole king crab, it is essential to consider the following key considerations:

• Budget: King crab can be a luxurious and expensive option, so it is important to consider your budget and whether it aligns with the desired purchase.
• Occasion: King crab is often indulged in for special occasions and gourmet dining experiences, which may make it worth the price for those seeking a unique and memorable culinary experience.
• Personal Preferences: King crab offers a distinct taste, texture, and size, which some seafood enthusiasts find worth the splurge. However, other types of crab, such as snow crab or Dungeness crab, offer a similar experience at a lower cost.

In conclusion, the worth of a whole king crab is subjective and depends on individual preferences, budget, and occasion. It is a luxury ingredient that offers exceptional taste and quality but comes with a higher price tag. Consider your personal factors and make an informed decision when purchasing a whole king crab.

For more information on king crab and its market prices, refer to reputable seafood suppliers and resources.

The internet is rife with myth, heresies, and conspiracy theories born out of fiction, but mercury tipped bullets do not exist. Not commercially and not legally either. Also, a mercury tipped bullet wouldn’t become the explosive projectile imagined by Frederick Forsyth in Day of the Jackal.

I highly doubt there are ballistic advantages if any, that mercury tipped bullets may have over their standard counterparts. In the instance that a mercury-tipped round is successfully fired, it would be for but one deadly purpose.

How Deadly Would Mercury Tipped Bullets Be?

Depending on the purity of the mercury you want to use, you’ll need more than 10 grams or 0.353 ounces to make it potentially lethal. To overcome splatter and in the case of over-penetration, you’ll need to up the dose so that enough mercury is absorbed into the body.

The added payload weight would significantly mess with a mercury tipped bullet’s ballistics. Depending on the amount absorbed prior to the target getting medical help, any heavy metal poisoning won’t have immediate terminal effects.

Liquid mercury targets the liver, heart, kidneys, and the central nervous system. If a victim gets doses of a chelating agent, the effects of identifiable symptoms may be reduced.

While acute poisoning by mercury tipped bullets will often lead to death, it’s from liver or kidney damage that was pre-existing.

Another possibility is that the mercury will attack the central nervous system and the brain. All I am saying is, the mercury tipped bullets gunshot wound could prove more fatal than a secondary poisoning by the heavy metal.

However, some of its compounds, like mercury fulminate are highly toxic and sensitive to friction or heat.

A bullet tipped with mercury fulminate will explode, not in a dramatic Day of the Jackal style, but fragment further nonetheless. Unlike liquid mercury where the victim is slowly poisoned to death, mercury fulminate acts soon after the gunshot.

Let’s examine the myths surrounding mercury tipped bullets and scenarios where they have been tried and tested.

Forsyth’s Weight behind the Mercury Tipped Bullets Myth

The Day of the Jackal is Frederick Forsyth’s bestselling novel based on a real-life terrorist. He describes a process where bullets are filled with mercury, enabling them to explode on impact.

The bullet tip was drilled, and a drop of mercury poured into the hole, which was then sealed. According to Forsyth, when this bullet is fired, the mercury pushes forward to augment the round’s ballistic capabilities.

This concept, designed for maximum knockdown power, was one envisioned sorely in a work of fiction, though a few individuals claim to have tried it. It capitalizes on the bullet’s momentum and the continual devastation that the mercury carries past the fragmented round.

There are many holes that I can punch into a theory involving topping off bullets with mercury, or any other ballistic substance for that matter.

The very thing intended to make the slug explode on impact can also detonate when it’s firing from the chamber with grievous ramifications for the gun and the shooter. It’s all imaginable and may sound doable, but that’s until you factor in the physics.

And then there are legal angles since there is no way you’ll be wasting precious metals like mercury at the range. Hunting is also out of the question, and shooting such a bullet in self-defense will amount to murder.

That’s all if your mercury tipped bullets can deliver it to your target.

Amalgam Attributes of Mercury with Bullet Materials

Encasing mercury on the tip of a bullet is a procedure that shouldn’t be attempted without protective gear. Mercury is a toxic metal and reacts in peculiar ways that might catch you off-guard, with dire consequences.

Like I stated earlier, making mercury tipped bullets has been attempted, albeit in controlled environments.

Kotzar’s Findings

One instance detailed by Geoff Kotzar in a Google Group’s discussion cites what happened when he used .22LR hollow points. He injected mercury into the hollow cavity and then applied epoxy to enclose it.

Kotzar left his rounds standing overnight and when he woke up the following morning, his lead slugs had turned silver-like. What he hadn’t realized is that mercury forms an amalgam or a composite with almost all metals.

This amalgam can be solid, soft, or liquid depending on the ratio of mercury. A good example of common amalgam use is in dentistry for dental fillings and in gold mining where ore is amalgamated with mercury.

Dental fillings, particularly from before composite resins were developed, used tin, copper, silver, zinc or indium. The resultant amalgams were soft and plausible during the application but hardened as the metal was added to proportions greater than the mercury ratio.

The lead hollow points .22LRs in which Geoff Kotzar encased mercury readily became amalgams, turning a silver color. He didn’t find a trace of the mercury, and the cavity only contained the receded epoxy at the bottom.

The resultant amalgam, despite the mercury present within, is a brittle and homogenous bullet that is bound to break up mid-flight instead of exploding on impact.

This round may stray way off target due to interferences in its ballistic coefficients. After the amalgamation, there is no actual mercury that will leach out of this slug, just like in dental tooth fillings.

Going by the conventional hollow point cavity could be that a coating or an actual bullet made from a non-amalgamating metal holds the solution.

A few notable metals that mercury does not form amalgams with include iron, tungsten, tantalum, and platinum.

The Mercury Fulminate Angle

An alternative to liquid mercury tipped bullets would be to fill a hollow point, or drilled cavity with mercury II fulminate.

A primary explosive, mercury fulminate is used as a percussion or blasting cap trigger for igniting other explosions. This crystalline substance is highly sensitive to shock, friction or heat, and is similar to mercury II cyanate as both are isomers.

Mercury fulminate replaced flints as trigger means for muzzleloader black powder charges back in the 1820s. Years later, the compound was incorporated into primers for pistol and self-contained rifle ammo.

Although mercury fulminates potency weakens with time, it’s non-corrosive and decomposes into the elements which constitute it.

Due to the reduced mercury forming amalgams with brass cartridges, fulminate was replaced by more effective lead styphnate, tetrazene derivatives, and lead azide.

Mercury supplies can also be unreliable, and wartime supply deficits steered munitions manufacturers to try other chemistry.

Though not like books and movies purport, filling a bullet tip with crystals of mercury fulminate would create a projectile that explodes on impact. Fulminate ignites at less than 300° Fahrenheit, exploding with a velocity of about 4,000 fps.

I am taking the liberty to assume that firing the cartridge doesn’t make the bullet explode inside your gun’s barrel.

The person who created the mercury tipped exploding bullets myth may have heard about the explosive qualities of mercury II fulminate. I do not doubt that someone has tried it and probably ended up knee-deep in a mess, perhaps even a terminal one.

The Curious Case of a Deputy Shot with Mercury Tipped Bullets

Having trolled the internet and examined several stories researching the existence of mercury tipped bullets, one stands out.

In San Antonio Texas, a sheriff’s deputy was shot nearly 30 years ago but only died last year. Bexar County deputy Leo Gomez was shot by a gang-affiliated individual on the 24th of February, 1991.

Gomez was hit seven times with mercury tipped bullets, by a gang member named Enrique Lopez. The suspect, who had been stopped and questioned by the officer, pulled out a .45 automatic pistol and fired several mercury-tipped slugs at the deputy.

Although Gomez survived the shooting, the mercury remained within his body. This led to years of health issues, and an early retirement which culminated with terminal brain cancer.

Detectives later found out that the shooter had retrieved mercury from a thermometer, pouring it down the tips of his hollow-point bullets.

According to colleagues of the late deputy Leo Gomez, he suffered a lot and for many years. He did recover from the gunshot wounds and got back to work at the sheriff’s office.

A lot of blood work was done, and he became a sort of test subject for US air force medical researchers. Leo however surprised all his doctors by living when they expected him to die, and at that, vigorously at his love of motorcycles and police work.

He retired early from the Bexar county precinct three but continued to work as a reserve deputy constable. After a motorbike crash that left him with serious injuries in 2016, Leo was diagnosed with brain cancer.

This prompted his total retirement from law enforcement in 2018. He passed away at the age of 63, on Thursday, May 2nd, 2019.

Are Exploding Rounds a Myth Too?

Although not actually in use at the time, exploding bullets were discovered over a century ago. When their destructive nature came under review, however, the 1868 St. Petersburg declaration was instituted.

This states that inflammable projectiles or explosives under 14 ounces should never be employed during wartime.

Examples of the explosive rounds in existence at the time were the 7.62mm x54R Russian machine gun cartridge. These had a phosphorous and tetryl internal charge.

Later, Pyrodex charges were added to handgun cartridges, sometimes with a mercury additive.

Due to the level of innovation and customization that’s present in the world of guns, individuals can easily obtain instructions on making bullets that explode.

One of the most infamous examples of the use of exploding rounds is President Ronald Reagan’s attempted assassination in 1981. The would-be assassin, a man named John Hinckley used Bingham Devastator rounds, slugs of which were extracted from the president and a policeman.

The .22 caliber Devastators are composed of an aluminum tip within which a lead azide center is lacquer sealed. You will not come across these rounds today, seeing as their sale was restricted following the 81 incident.

Explosive incendiaries inside small-caliber bullets tend to have inconsistent results. Mostly the explosion doesn’t happen, a fact that Reagan thanked for his life.

Expanding Bullets Can Be Confused With Exploding Ones

Rifle and pistol bullets have been designed that expand or mushroom on impact. Hunting rounds in particular have half jackets, exposing the soft nose so that the lead expands to minimize over-penetration.

During the Burmese campaign, the old lee Enfield .303 round-nosed bullets were modified at an arms factory in India. This increased their terminal capacity, and they earned the nickname ‘dum-dum bullets’.

With the adoption of spitzer rounds which are pointed, the dum-dum bullets faded into oblivion. The term is however still used to refer to expanding bullets.

The most common handgun round with expanding properties is the JHPs or jacketed hollow points. This bullet has an axial hole within which is a tiny polymer cap, where theorists insist mercury can be added.

When mercury is mentioned in conjunction with expanding rounds, it’s probably mercury compounds in the materials rather than elemental liquid mercury.

Long before Jack Carr was noticed for raising two pet moose, he was already famous.

An Alaska mail carrier at the turn of the 20th century, Carr spent his days crisscrossing the territory by dog sled, delivering mail between the Last Frontier and the contiguous United States.

In this role, Carr brought news of Alaska to a national audience. He was the first to confirm the Klondike Gold Rush in 1897, when he brought the news of gold to Seattle, the New York Times reported more than a century ago.

Only later, after moving to Washington state, did Carr procure and train two moose. He named them in honor of President William Taft and Taft’s daughter, Helen. The unusual pets brought Carr’s name to the headlines once again.

Despite the novelty and interest surrounding his pet moose, he wasn’t the only one domesticating moose during that era. From Fairbanks to Skagway, stories of pet ungulates were making the news.

‘Moose will go on vaudeville stage’

Carr’s name is scattered among various publications of the time, where he described the advances and ills of the era, from the destitute miners spending their scant money at saloons to the bustling population of Dawson City.

He took the first mail from Circle City by dog team in 1896, mushing down to Skagway, the Fairbanks Daily News-Miner wrote in 1960. The next year he purportedly traveled from St. Michael, at the mouth of the Yukon River, to Seattle. His journey took only 87 days, the article says, not including the days he rested.

By 1898, Carr was described as “one of the most famous mail carriers and travelers” among Yukon pioneers by the Klondike Nugget, based in Dawson City.

A few years later, Carr was again on the move.

A 1906 article from the Fairbanks Daily Times says that Carr, “the greatest of all mushers,” had “quit the business.” He and his wife were heading to Seattle, ending his mail contract between the Yukon-Koyukuk region.

The couple had already sold a trading post they owned in Fort Yukon. Carr had also secured a gold mining claim that “relieve(d) him from any further necessity of mushing or doing anything else save watching the other fellows work,” the article says.

(The later News-Miner article says, though, that he was still mushing in Alaska in 1908, so there is some discrepancy as to the end of his mail-carrying career. At some point, though, he ended up back in Interior Alaska, with two baby moose by his side.)

In November 1909, his image appeared in the Seattle Daily Times next to two moose calves. The article was dug up by Elizabeth Cook of the Tanana-Yukon Historical Society.

“Moose Will go on Vaudeville Stage,” the article’s headline proclaims. “Jack Carr, Pioneer of Alaska, Educating Animals He Caught in Far North for Theatrical Career.”

According to the article, Carr captured the twin calves near Circle City in the Interior when they were 6 days old. He fed them condensed milk and oatmeal until they were more fully grown.

He named the two moose Bill and Helen, after President William Taft and his daughter.

Bill and Helen were brought to Seattle via steamship and train, where they lived in an enclosure on Carr’s property, the article says.

Undated images of the two moose fully grown show that he succeeded in training them to pull him in a sulky, a light, two-wheeled carriage. Another image shows a moose standing on two legs and Carr standing on a pedestal, smiling at his domesticated creature.

Eventually, Carr got bored of living in Seattle, the News-Miner reported. He moved to the now-abandoned town of Katalla, Alaska, where he lived for the rest of his life. It’s unclear when or if the moose went with him.

Moose-mounted cavalry?

Today, of course, all of this would be illegal. State law bans the keeping of game animals as pets. Moose can be kept in captivity only under certain circumstances, by zoos and other permitted facilities.

But long before the Gold Rush, other Arctic regions were experimenting with domesticating moose.

In the 1700s, Swedish King Carl XI used moose as riding animals for couriers. He also planned to make moose-mounted cavalry regiments, an idea that was presented later to the Academy of Science in Stockholm as an alternative to importing horses. The idea never took hold, though; the animals’ untrainable nature and susceptibility to disease made them less preferable to horses.

In the 1930s, Soviet dictator Joseph Stalin also hoped moose would replace horses in cavalry regimes but the idea was eventually abandoned. Moose domestication projects in Russia continue today, mostly selling moose milk and serving as tourist attractions.

Meanwhile, in Alaska’s territorial days, there were no laws against keeping moose, and another famous Alaskan, J. Bernard Moore of Skagway, also had his own family pet.

Carnation the moose

The Moore family settled in Skagway Bay in 1887. Ten years later – after J. Bernard Moore successfully predicted that a gold rush would flood the valley with stampeders – their homestead was overrun with men heading north.

The city of Skagway was born, and for a short time, one of the most famous residents was a young bull moose.

The tale of J. Bernard “Ben” Moore’s moose is related in detail in “Skagway: City of the New Century” by Jeff Brady.

Moore inherited the moose in Seattle in 1899 from a miner who had brought the creature down from Canada. Its name: Carnation.

Carnation arrived in Skagway incognito. Eventually, Moore taught the moose to be put in harness, and he decided to hitch Carnation to a wagon and parade through town.

A local newspaper described the scene:

“All idle eyes in the business center of the city yesterday afternoon were amused by the sight of a fine specimen of the monarch of the woods, a moose, parading in the streets in harness and subservient to man,” the Skaguay News wrote on Dec. 30, 1899.

During his short tenure as a local attraction, Carnation was photographed, featured in stories and visited frequently, Brady writes. In 1900, the 2-year-old moose died, with his death attributed to gluttony – eating “too much clover,” a newspaper reported at the time.

Moore buried Carnation on his property and mounted the moose’s head above the piano in his home. Moore’s homestead is today a National Historical Landmark.

‘Asked many times to keep the moose out of the saloon’

A brief history of pet moose wouldn’t be complete without the infamous tale of one in Fairbanks that in 1913 annoyed city officials so much they crafted an ordinance against it.

Fairbanks bartender Pete Buckholtz acquired his calf from hunters, Alaska Dispatch News columnist Dermot Cole writes in his book “Fairbanks: A Gold Rush Town that Beat the Odds.”

The moose was fed potatoes and stale bread in winter months, and sometimes willow branches cut by Buckholtz. It was broken to harness and, like the other pet moose, could be hitched to a sled.

Docile and affectionate, the moose followed its owner around, including into the saloon where Buckholtz worked.

“Buckholtz had been asked many times to keep the moose out of the saloon, but he refused,” Cole writes.

Mayor Andrew Nerland decided that he had to do something about this nuisance moose. While the city didn’t have the power to ban the possession of a live moose, they found a loophole: They could ban moose from city sidewalks. And so they did, preventing the moose from legally entering the saloon.

If you have more information about historical game animals as pets, or any of the above men profiled, please email reporter Laurel Andrews at [email protected].

Alaska Dispatch Publishing