Most of us that read waterfowl articles in magazines dream of the wild hunts on massive grain fields teeming with thousands of geese and ducks. But what about the guy or gal that does not have a trailer full of high-end decoys, access to thousand-acre fields, and cannot afford expensive calls? There are plenty of hunters out there itching to call in their own birds, and see wobbling gray and black bombers with feet down, and hear the grunt of the honkers as they cruise within range with cupped wings. All of us want to yell, “Take em!” as we bust out of our layouts, dropping geese.

The good news is that any of us can live that dream with some planning and effort, even without access to big feeds and hundreds of decoys. In fact, fields less than 100 acres that are located in a daily flight pattern near water are killer locations, particularly later in the season. Throw in two-dozen decoys, a flag and a few layouts and you are in business.

Lighting the Flame

A few seasons ago my daughter and I were trying to do a little duck hunting on a tributary of our local river in Virginia. A farmer granted us access to a makeshift boat ramp at the end of the fields. Our duck hunting was a bust due to lack of birds, but we noticed a few small flocks of geese regularly passing over the scattered 50-acre grain fields that we dragged our boat through each morning going to and from the water.

When we stopped to pay the boat ramp access fee to the farmer, I left a “thank you” note commenting about how we noticed Canada geese flying over the fields, and how none of those birds came near our blind or the part of the creek we hunted.

A week later when we were leaving the same property the farmer stopped us and asked if we wanted to try to put a dent in the flock of geese to help save the crops. We could hardly contain our excitement, and promised to not tear up the fields—and insisted on continuing to pay the access fee.

Location Is Paramount

Since we lucked into that field to hunt, we have since started gaining access to other small, but similar fields. When looking for productive fields, we start scouting in the fall when geese filter in from the north. We use an online topo/satellite map and our online GIS maps for our local counties to locate farm fields near water sources around the Chesapeake Bay watersheds. These can be large swamps, ponds, large creeks, rivers or small bays. Smart hunters know Canada geese will roost on the water and then feed after the sun gets up.

Once we locate potential properties near where we live, we try to scout them before approaching the farmer. Binoculars are helpful. We watch for flight patterns to determine which properties the birds tend to fly over on a regular basis when going to feed and roost. Again, we focus on small fields under 100 acres that geese have flown over on a regular basis. They don’t necessarily have to feed in the small fields, but there should be some beans or grain of some sort for them to eat if they did land in the field.

While other hunters are hitting the large fields and putting in a lot of effort and time with dozens, or even hundreds of decoys, we are going light with two-dozen or less decoys and pulling down our limits right along with the big shots with all their equipment.

Hiding Is Everything

Since we are on a budget, we carefully select two-dozen field decoys of various poses, a few layout blinds from a box store retailer and a flag for motion. While it would be nice to get the top-of-the-line gear, we make do with what we can afford and make a point to take care of it to make it last. One of the things we do with our layouts is gather up stubble from the fields we are hunting a few days before and very thoroughly brush our layouts. We also take a few trashbags and rake up stubble from the ends of the fields and use it the day of our hunt to “feather out” the profile of our blinds and our dog blind too. It is critical to blend the blinds in as much as possible.

Steve Purks, a friend and self-taught goose hunter, explained how critical this was to us.

Geese that arrive in Virginia or Maryland after Thanksgiving when our season opens are wary and have been called to and shot at.

When we place our decoys in the field, we face a majority of them into the wind while leaving a hole for the birds to land in our kill zone; another trick we learned from Purks. We watch how the birds react to our set up and make changes as necessary. Sometimes we need to open the hole if the birds seem hesitant or sometimes we change the direction the decoys are facing if the wind shifts. Purks is always checking conditions and analyzing his spreads when we hunt with him and I keep a close eye on what he is doing and ask a lot of questions to learn as much as I can.

Next, we use the terrain to our advantage. A few rows of corn were left standing in one of the fields we hunted last season. We backed our blinds up to that hard edge and made them all but disappear. While the geese did not want to land right on our blinds, they did come in close enough for us to get our shots. We have also placed our blinds in spots that were slightly lower than the rest of the field. Doing so helps the layouts disappear and we have our decoys all around the layouts to blend in. Fencerows or hedgerows are great for this if the wind is correct for the setup of decoys. Birds won’t land if the wind is blowing towards the hedgerow; it leaves too little time for the birds to get down in the decoys. Hunters need the wind blowing away from the hedgerow for a good setup.

Last, we use inexpensive calls, but they work. We use them sparingly, mostly for getting the attention of the geese from a distance and a little grunting as they pass over. We flag the birds when they are coming off the water and heading to the bigger fields nearby. By being in the flight path, we get their first looks and then work hard to peel off birds and get them curious before they even make it to the larger fields. All it takes is a few to commit and come on down for us to get our shots and watch the dog work!

One last tip is to be in place early whether it is a morning or afternoon hunt. When the birds go to feed you want to be in place when they start flying or they will see birds landing a half-mile away and keep following them. Be at the front of the flock when they come over and work those birds.

Small Investment, Big Rewards

Hunting small fields on a shoestring works for several reasons. First, the geese sometimes get wary of the larger fields and large spreads of decoys and they begin to look for something different, something a bit more secure. Sometimes the group of birds will peel off the big flock looking for food. Being in the flight path, carefully positioning our decoys and layouts by using and considering the terrain in the field, and calling sparingly but using a flag to attract their attention, really makes a difference for us. We don’t need to purchase a trailer load of high-end decoys or spend hundreds of dollars on a lease and expensive calls to get our limits. It works, and we spend far less money and time setting up to have our fun.

So you just bought a new AR-15 and took it to the range.

You ripped through a few boxes of ammo and now you’re home and you need to know….how do I clean this thing?

Maybe you’ve pulled the pins and separated the upper and the lower and you have no idea what to do from there.

It looks intimidating, right?

Feeling a bit overwhelmed?

No need for that, cleaning the AR-15 is pretty easy!

I’m going to show you just how easy it is to tear your rifle apart, clean it in depth, and put it all back together without fear of damaging anything or leaving any parts out.

Now…with a quick video too!

If that helped, please subscribe to our YouTube channel since we’re adding new videos every week!

Step One: Get the Tools to Clean Your AR-15

If you already have other guns, and you’re cleaning them like you should be (you are cleaning your guns regularly right?) then you most likely already have just about everything you need to clean an AR-15, except for some AR-specific things like a bore brush for your particular caliber.

If you don’t already have cleaning supplies, or if you want to build a complete AR-15 cleaning kit that you can carry to the range or competitions, you have two options: build a kit, or buy one.

Which one is better?

That’s going to be a decision you have to make for yourself.

If you just want a kit that works, or maybe you don’t shoot your AR a lot and aren’t worried about maximizing your cleaning efficiency, then just buying a pre-made kit is perfectly fine.

But, if you are a high volume shooter and you need to clean your rifle frequently, or you’re like me and just enjoy the Zen-like process of cleaning your guns, you’ll probably want to build the perfect kit to meet your needs.

Let’s look at the pros and cons of these two approaches.

Buying a Pre-Made Gun Cleaning Kit

First, if you want to order a kit that will have just about everything you need, there’s no shame in that. Not everyone has the time or energy to build a kit from scratch, and there are several good options out there. The downsides of buying a totally pre-made kit are you can only reliably find universal cleaning kits that are going to include a bunch of extra brushes and bore snakes that you won’t necessarily need.

Think of the pre-made kit like an off-the-rack suit. Sure it’ll work, but its never going to be as nice, or as personalized as a bespoke option.

Basically, off-the-rack is fine, but you wouldn’t want to wear it to your wedding or wear it every day.

The same goes for these pre-made kits…you wouldn’t want to rely on them for something important, say, if you’re a competition shooter, and you’ll want a more personalized option if you’re going to be using it a lot.

That being said, these kits are perfectly fine for most folks, and they’ll be good if you have other guns or other AR-15 calibers, or are looking at acquiring some in the future. Our favorite is the GuardTech.

With these kits or any kit, you buy/build, you’ll want to make sure that they include the correct size bore snakes and brushes, as well as the other tools that work with your AR-15. Make sure you match the caliber to your gun, or you’re going to have to buy another…and you’ll feel a bit silly in the process.

Check out all our favorites in Best Gun Cleaning Kits.

Building Your Own AR-15 Cleaning Kit

Because cleaning a gun is a process that can vary so much from person to person, it’s best that you build a kit that meets your own needs. You can always pick up several different pre-made kits and combine them into one giant “frankenkit”.

If you’re going to build your own kit, I recommend buying a nice case such as this Plano 3-Tray Tackle Box with Dual Top Access, but anything from a cardboard box on up will do.

Next, you’ll want a cleaning mat to keep your parts visible and to keep everything organized. A white sheet or tablecloth will do, but I like this Gun Cleaning Mat because it also includes a handy parts list, making it perfect for a beginner.

From there, you’ll want to buy the brushes and bore snakes/rods for your particular AR caliber. I’ve included some links to .223/5.56 caliber ones below since these are the most common flavors of AR on the market, but you’ll need ones that match your particular caliber.

Here are some kits that include more or less everything you need:

• Gunmaster 223/5.56 AR Rifle Cleaning Kit ($12) – This is the one in my case up top.
• Real Avid Gun Boss – AR/.223/5.56 Compact Rod-Type Cleaning System Kit ($30)
• Otis Modern Sporting Rifle & AR Cleaning System ($43)

With these kits, you should have the brushes, bore snakes/rods, punches, and other various and sundry things you will need, other than your consumable cleaning supplies such as solvent, lubes, and cleaning patches.

The only other things you may find useful (especially if you want to get into some light gunsmithing) is a better punch set like this Ultimate Arms Roll Pin Punch Set ($29.99) and an AR-15 Vise Block ($49.99) that fits into the mag well of the rifle so you can secure it in a bench vise without scratching the finish on your gun.

Best AR-15 Cleaning Solvents and Lubricant

• Hoppe’s No. 9 Gun Bore Cleaner ($7.46)
• Hoppe’s No. 9 Lubricating Oil ($6.99)
• CLP Oil, Solvent, and Lube Combination ($33)
• Ballistol Multi-Purpose Aerosol Can Lubricant Cleaner Protectant ($10) (We love this one so much, we wrote a Ballistol Review)

Step 2: Prep the Area and Clear the Firearm

First, lay out your cleaning mat and throw on some gloves. Some of these chemicals are toxic and you want them in the gun, not on your skin or in your body.

Next, round up all the ammo for your gun, and move it off the table. Seriously. Get it out of the room, if possible. This eliminates the possibility of a round finding its way into the chamber at any point.

Next, clear and render safe your firearm. (That’s fancy talk for making sure the gun can’t go pew, pew pew, or pew pew pew for any reason.)

Here’s the full procedure

1. Point the rifle in a SAFE direction.
2. Remove the magazine.
3. Place the weapon on safe (don’t worry if you can’t because the hammer isn’t pulled back).
4. Lock the bolt to the rear.
5. Visually inspect the chamber and remove any ammunition that may not have been ejected.
6. Release the bolt.
7. Place the weapon on safe.

Step 2: Separate the Upper Receiver from the Lower Receiver.

Push the take-down pins out and pull the two halves apart. Some pins can be pushed out with your finger, others may require the use of a punch. Be careful whatever you use so you don’t scratch your finish. I recommend a nylon punch from one of the kits above for general use.

Step 3: Remove the Charging Handle and Bolt Carrier Group

Step 4: Disassemble the Bolt Carrier Group

First, push the bolt to the rear (pictured above) and remove the firing pin retaining pin using your pick. Remove the firing pin and set it aside. Rotate the cam pin ninety degrees and remove it. Now the bolt should slide right out!

Step 5: Disassemble the Bolt

Once you have the bolt out of the bolt carrier group, use a punch and your mallet to remove the extractor pin, and then remove the extractor and set it aside.

Step 6: Remove the Buffer and Buffer Spring from the Buffer Tube

Using a calloused finger, or a punch, press down on the buffer retainer. Remove the buffer and spring from the tube. Remember the retainer is under pressure, so try not to push down on it too far and slip once the pieces are out.

Otherwise, you’ll spend the next few hours looking for it after it springs off to the other end of the room.

Step 7: Clean the Chamber and Barrel

Everyone has their method for this, but there are a few things you need to remember.

The most important thing is that you clean the chamber and barrel from rear to front. You want to make sure the debris comes out the front of the barrel, and that any brush you use on a rod is inserted from the rear – go with the bullet.

This helps keep the rifling intact. The movies are wrong; you don’t clean from the muzzle to the chamber!

This area takes some creativity to clean up, but with time you’ll find what works for you. This is a good place to drop a little bit of that Bore Cleaner you picked up.

Step 8: Clean the Bolt Carrier Group

This is easier than the chamber and barrel.

Give everything a good scrub. Look for carbon buildup, especially at the rear of the firing pin.

Clean the extractor well, attention to detail is key. I make sure my rags are all plain white and cleaned after every use with bleach.

Set one aside as an “inspection” rag so you can easily find missed carbon.

When you’re finished, reassemble the bolt carrier group in the exact opposite order of disassembly. Make sure your bolt is fully to the front so it can be reinserted in the upper. A flick of the wrist helps this along.

Step 9: Clean the Buffer Assembly

This part is easy. Get a rag with a little lube on it and wipe it all down.

Unless you took your rifle to a really cool obstacle course, you probably won’t need to get back in the tube itself. Wipe down the spring and buffer and you’re all set.

During this step, if you have a collapsible stock it’s not a bad idea to remove it and wipe down the outside of the buffer. It’s an option if you have been in a messy environment, but not needed for range trips.

Step 10: Clean the Charging Handle and Upper Receiver

Just like the buffer assembly, a lightly oiled rag is all you should really need here.

You’ll find what works best for you, but once reassembled the charging handle should move effortlessly within the upper receiver.

Step 11: Clean the Fire Control Group (FCG) and Lower Receiver

This takes a brush, oil, and patience.

It generally doesn’t get too fouled up. Pay attention to your FCG and make sure there are no cracks on the hammer or anywhere on the lower receiver.

Step 12: Reassemble your Rifle

Work backward from the takedown, just like the bolt carrier group. After the fifth time, you do this it will become second nature! It should look something like this when you’re done.

Step 13: Lubricate your Rifle

There are more details to this, but I’m going to keep it simple for right now. All the pieces of your bolt carrier group and your charging handle should receive a light coat of lubricant. It should have a nice sheen to it.

Your FCG, mag release button, bolt catch button, safety selector should all get a drop or two of lubricant. Fiddle with them a touch to work it in there. Bottom line, anything that moves needs to have a bit of lubricant on it.

Step 14: Perform a Function Check

You put all your ammo away at the beginning of this whole deal (right?) so there should be no way a round is anywhere near the chamber but do a safety check just in case.

Then:

1. Point the weapon in a safe direction.
2. Pull the bolt to the rear and release it forward.
3. Place the rifle on safe. Squeeze the trigger. If the hammer doesn’t drop, you passed that step.
4. Place the rifle on fire and pull the trigger. The hammer should fall. If it does, then you’re all finished with the hard part.

Step 16: Clean Your Magazine

This is an often overlooked step. It doesn’t need to be cleaned after every trip to the range. Just pay attention to it during loading.

Does it bind up? Can you hear dirt rattling around in there? Is it hard to load?

Cleaning the magazine is just like cleaning the buffer assembly. Use a pick or whatever you have handy to remove the base plate.

Remove the spring and follower. Wipe it all down and clean it up. Reassemble in the reverse of disassembly.

These are pretty straightforward. If you’ve invested in anti-tilt followers for your GI magazines, this is a great time to install them.

Step 17: Maintenance

Just like the break-in procedure, every rifle has its own maintenance schedule. Consult the manufacturer for more. A general rule of thumb is to give your rifle a thorough inspection every thousand rounds. Once you hit the five thousand round mark, it is a good idea to move to inspections every five hundred rounds.

The most common failures occur in the various springs (specifically the extractor spring), and in the O-Rings on the bolt carrier group. If failures begin, start there!

Keeping a clean and properly lubricated rifle will naturally reduce the risk of failure and extend the life of your rifle. During each cleaning, inspect all parts of cracks, burrs and general wear and tear that may bring your rifle out of spec.

Some Final Thing to Consider When Cleaning an AR-15

Do you shoot corrosive ammo? Check out our handy guide for more information and proper cleaning instructions.

Take your time. You want to be as thorough as possible. Really get inside the bolt carrier with every rag and cleaner you possibly can.

When inserting the firing pin retaining pin, remember the big hole is where it goes in. If you put it in the small hole on the other side, you’re going to have a bad day.

Anything that moves on your rifle should get at least one drop of lubricant whenever you clean. Just like an engine, that oil is important! I cannot stress this enough.

That about does it for this one folks, if you have any questions or want to tell us about your own cleaning procedures, drop us a line in the comments below! Want to see what can happen when you DON’T clean your AR…check out 8 Most Common AR-15 Failures.

Many Wisconsin anglers have the first Saturday in May circled on their calendars. That’s because the date marks the Wisconsin walleye opener on most inland waters. Opening-day conditions can vary greatly from year to year and from one end of the state to the other. In the north, some lakes may just be losing their ice cover and spawning may just be starting. In the south, walleyes usually have finished spawning and have turned their attention to food.

Walleyes, more than most other species, move from one place to another both seasonally and on a daily basis. Understanding those movement patterns is the first step to successful walleye fishing. That’s especially true during the first few weeks of the season. The second step is to use a presentation that will trigger strikes given the time of year, time of day, and the weather and water conditions. Regardless of where you fish, you can count on finding cold water in early May, which means you’ll want to slow down and scale down your presentation.

LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION

In the case of walleyes, “relocation, relocation, relocation” might be more accurate. In Wisconsin lakes and reservoirs, walleyes migrate from winter habitat to spawning areas and then to spring and summer habitat, all in a period of several weeks. Learn to identify each of those habitat types and when to expect walleyes to move from one to another and you should be able to catch them during the spawning period, when they move the farthest and their behavior changes the most.

By the time the Wisconsin walleye opener occurs, most walleyes have already moved to pre-spawn staging areas. These are usually areas of intermediate depth located very close to good spawning substrate. In deep lakes, walleyes often stage just off the main break between shallow flats and deep water. In shallow lakes and reservoirs, they may stage just outside weed flats, below subtle breaks of only a foot or so, in channels and off creek and river mouths.

SPAWNING HABITAT

In landlocked lakes, walleyes normally spawn on shallow rocks, rubble and gravel washed clean and aerated by wave action. That type of substrate is often found along shorelines, on mid-lake reefs and around islands. Walleyes also spawn on sand, submerged timber or even muck, if nothing better is available.

In reservoirs, lakes with tributaries or outlets, and lakes that are part of a chain of lakes, walleyes migrate as far as they have to in order to reach suitable spawning areas. They may go many miles upstream, downstream or through several lakes to find the gravel and rock structure they need.

TIMING THE SPAWNING RUN

Walleyes migrate to spawning areas several weeks before they actually spawn. On northern waters, this migration often takes place under the ice. Spawning begins when the water temperature reaches 42 degrees. Most spawning concludes by the time the water temperatures reach the low 50s.

Most walleye spawning takes place at night, but walleyes remain in staging areas during daylight hours throughout the spawning period and for several days thereafter before they disperse. Staging areas often hold great concentrations of walleyes, usually grouped by sex and size. The smaller males often remain close to spawning gravel, while larger females stay farther away in slightly deeper water.

An early spring can cause walleyes to begin their migration earlier than normal, while prolonged winter weather can push the entire process back a week or so. Year in and year out, however, the spawning run usually follows the same schedule within a few days, depending on the latitude of the lake in question. In southern Wisconsin, spawning normally is in full swing the first week of April. Farther north, spawning takes place in late April or early May.

PRE-SPAWN TECHNIQUES

Walleyes tend to be sluggish during the pre-spawn period, when water temperatures are in the 30s. Slow, deliberate presentations work best then. Action may be best during the afternoon, when the water has had a chance to warm up slightly. A leadhead jig tipped with a small minnow is a good bait choice.

Anchor or use a trolling motor to stay over a staging area where you have marked fish and work a jig-and-minnow vertically with a short lift/drop, lift/drop action, or drag it slowly across the bottom. Inactive walleyes usually take a bait as it drops. Rather than a decisive strike, you may simply feel a weight when you lift your rod. If so, hold it steady for a moment. If the weight begins to move, set the hook.

If there is a light breeze blowing in the right direction, you can drift over staging areas with a bottom-bouncer and a floating jighead or plain hook tipped with a minnow. Again, set the hook when you feel any resistance that moves.

When fishing staging areas from shore, cast a jig out to deep water and crawl it back to you. You may lose a few jigs, but that is a good way to cover an area thoroughly.

In reservoirs, start below a dam or inlet mouth and work deep water thoroughly with a jig-and-minnow. If that doesn’t produce fish, gradually move downstream, probing shallow bars, eddies and backwaters. Shallow, submerged wood can be very productive now, as the dark wood absorbs the sun’s heat and warms up the surrounding water. Shallow-running crankbaits often take good fish in timber.

Vary lure color and size until you find what the fish want. If they stop hitting or if the weather or water clarity change, try a different size or color. Generally, use smaller, brighter baits in colder water, fluorescent colors in dark water, and natural colors in clear water.

FISHING DURING THE SPAWN

Daytime action often drops off sharply once walleyes begin to spawn. Night-fishing in shallow spawning areas can be very productive, though. Try longline trolling over gravel bars, shoreline points, reefs and weed flats with floating minnow baits like a Rapala or ThunderStick. Use a zigzag trolling pattern to give baits an erratic action that often triggers strikes. On reservoirs, use side-planer boards to troll shallow-running baits along shoreline riprap.

If you fish during the day, work staging areas carefully with a lightweight jig tipped with a small minnow or plastic tail. If all you catch are small, aggressive males, move around and keep jigging until you locate a group of females. They’ll usually be holding below the next break to deeper water.

POST-SPAWN TRANSITION

After spawning, walleyes scatter and feed voraciously during a brief transition period before they move to summer habitat. During the transition, they may be just about anywhere there is food. They often move into very shallow water because it is warmer and because they find hatching insects and young perch and other baitfish there. Since they are rarely as concentrated now as during the spawning period or when they school up again in summer, you’ll take one here, one there, so it’s best to move around and cover a lot of water. Trolling or casting shallow-running crankbaits over shallow mud flats, gravel bars, rockpiles, points and emerging weeds will take fish both day and night during the transition.

Vary these techniques depending on where you are fishing and whether spring weather is early or late in coming. The best indicator of the progress of walleye spawning is water temperature, so check it daily to help plan your approach. Now let’s look at a half-dozen of the state’s best early-season walleye waters.

BIG CEDAR LAKE

Washington County’s Big Cedar Lake harbors some big walleyes, but they are a challenge to catch in the clear water. Big Cedar covers 932 acres and has a maximum depth of 105 feet in the south basin. That basin holds most of the lake’s walleyes. A honey of a gravel bar rises to within 8 feet or so of the surface in the basin, and another one comes up out of a 20-foot saddle at the mouth of the outlet bay to Cedar Creek along the east shore. Both of those humps and the entire east shore fall off so abruptly that a mountain goat would have trouble keeping its footing there if it were dry land.

Look for post-spawn females along the drops during the day and on top of the bars in the evening and at night. Jigging works well in the deeper water, while flatline trolling with shallow-running stickbaits will take some nice fish on top of the bars. Use planer boards to troll close to shore.

BIG GREEN LAKE

At 237 feet, Big Green is Wisconsin’s deepest lake. Like Big Cedar, this is a two-tier fishery, with lake trout and ciscoes in the deeper water and bass, walleyes, northerns and muskies in the shallower portions. The lake’s walleyes grow fat on ciscoes and other forage. Some of them migrate up Silver Creek at the east end or Spring Creek at the west end to spawn. Others spawn on the lake’s gravel bars.

When the season first opens, try near those two inlets, but avoid the posted fish refuge at the Silver Creek inlet. Two large bars at the east end and two smaller bars just south of Malcolm Bay are also good spots in spring. With a west wind, the stretch along the north shore from Lone Tree Point to Malcolm Bay is a great walleye drift with live chubs or shiners.

Contacts: Schroeder’s Sports Shop, (920) 294-6462; Green Lake Marina, (920) 294-3625 www.greenlakemarina.com; Norton’s Guide Service, (920) 294-3617, www.nortonsfishingandhuntingadventures.com.

HIGH FALLS FLOWAGE

At 1,700 acres, High Falls is the largest of several reservoirs created by power dams that tame the brawling Peshtigo River. Like the river, the flowage is stained dark brown, limiting visibility to 3 or 4 feet. Countless rock bars make navigation hazardous but provide excellent spawning and feeding habitat for walleyes.

In May, look for walleyes in the northern half of the flowage, above the Highway X bridge. You’ll find spawners right in the stumps and on the shallow bars at the north end. Larger females will hold in the old river channel. A slip-bobber rig or lightweight jig tipped with a fathead minnow will take walleyes in spring.

“To avoid snagging in rocks and to help you feel a pick-up, go with the lightest jig you can manage,” says fishing guide Mike Mladenik.

Eight free public landings maintained by Wisconsin Public Service Corporation provide good access to all parts of the flowage.

Contacts: Popp’s Resort, (715) 757-3511, www.poppsresort.com; Mladenik’s Guide Service, (715) 854-2055, www.mikemladenik.com.

THREE LAKES CHAIN

The Three Lakes Chain is actually a string of 17 lakes on the Eagle River in Oneida County. Burnt Rollways Dam separates the Three Lakes Chain from the Eagle River Chain. Some folks just call them the upper and lower chain. Most of the lakes are stained a medium brown, which limits visibility and helps walleyes stay active during daylight hours.

An abundance of mid-lake structure on Planting Ground, Long and Big Stone lakes holds walleyes in spring. Deep water on Big Stone and Medicine lakes harbors ciscoes, which help produce some big walleyes. Most anglers use jigs and minnows for early-season walleyes there, as motor trolling is not permitted.

Contacts: Eagle Sports Center, (9715) 479-8804, www.eaglesportscenter.com; Guide’s Choice, (715) 477-2248, www.guideschoiceproshop.com; Tadpole’s Sports, (715) 479-6641, www.tadpolessports.com.

MCKENZIE LAKES

This trio of lakes located in Washburn County offers some of the best walleye fishing in the region. Upper (Big) McKenzie covers 1,185 acres, Middle McKenzie 530 and Lower McKenzie 180 acres. The two larger lakes have similar structure, with abundant gravel bars and adjacent deep water. Walleyes move freely between them via McKenzie Creek.

Walleye fishing is usually very good on the larger lakes when the season opens in May. Minnows work well now because baitfish populations are at their lowest at this time of year. Try the gravel bars at the north end of Upper McKenzie and the south end of Middle McKenzie.

Contact: Boone’s A&H Outpost, (715) 635-8955.

CHIPPEWA FLOWAGE

Formed in 1923 by the Winter Dam at the confluence of the East and West forks of the Chippewa River, the Chippewa Flowage flooded 10 lake basins and sprawls over 15,000 acres in Sawyer County. Best known for its big muskies, the “Big Chip” is also one of the best walleye lakes in the state, with a high population density sustained by natural reproduction and boosted by stocking by both the state and the Lac Courte Oreilles tribe.

With 233 miles of shoreline, 140 islands and six major tributaries, the flowage is best bitten off in small chunks. Try to fish it all at once and you’ll go crazy. When the season opens, fish the tributary mouths and the gravel shorelines of Chief and Tyner lakes. Jig with a minnow or cast diving crankbaits.

Contacts: The Landing Resort, (715) 462-3626, www.thelanding-lco.com; Treeland’s Resorts, (715) 462-3874; www.treelandresorts.com.

Other top spring walleye waters include Lakes Waubesa and Mendota on the Madison Chain, Pike Lake in Washington County, Big Arbor Vitae Lake in Vilas County, Lake Arbutus in Jackson County, and Holcombe Flowage in Chippewa County. If you’re planning an opening-weekend outing, check local conditions before you pick a lake to fish. You can also check the Wisconsin DNR’s weekly Outdoor Report at http://dnr.wi.gov/News/or/. With a little effort, you should be able to find the perfect spot for opening-weekend walleyes.

DON’T MISS Episode 34 – 2022 Giant Gear Issue Series – Decoys with MOJO and Big Al’s

Dive Bomb Industries – F1 Wigeon Floaters

Many waterfowlers can’t think of duck and goose hunting without thinking about Dive Bomb, and for a good reason: their decoys work incredibly well. If it’s not already in your floater arsenal, one go-to should be the F1 Wigeon. A one-piece decoy that showcases lifelike perfection, these white-shouldered bad boys are sure to grab the attention of passer-by ducks and get them to put their feet down. These decoys have been hand-crafted by World Champion Jon Jones, and each six-pack comes with four upright drakes and a pair of active hens.

$75/6-pack | divebombindustries.com

Lifetime Decoys – FlexFloat Pintails

Lifetime Decoys has recently rebranded themselves as Heyday, but their famous Hydrofoam decoys remain the same. Pintails are one of my all-time favorite ducks. The boy birds are beautiful, and I love to see that white chest and black sprig in flight. The problem for many is finding a decoy with a sprig that’s not brittle as an icicle. That problem, luckily, has been eliminated. Enter Lifetime’s damn near indestrucbile FlexFloat Pintail. Available in 12 packs with eight drakes and four hens, the Flexfloat design means the sprig won’t snap off the bulls or hang on decoy bags. At 8.9 pounds per dozen, light weight is another plus.

$300/dozen | heydayoutdoor.com

Final Approach – HD Green-Winged Teal

New from Final Approach are several duck species-specific floaters, but we love an excellent early-season teal shoot, and these caught our eye. Decoy realism is remarkable, and the waterfowl masses will appreciate the full-size, one-piece construction. These floaters work well for stand-alone teal sets and make great filler decoys, especially when you want more ducks in the spread and the walk from the truck is long, and weight and space are critical.

$100/dozen | fabrand.com

Tanglefree – Flight Series Canvasback

Most duck hunters, me included, get smitten when they see the large red head and coal-black bill of a drake Canvasback. It’s moments like these when having the most realistic fakes come into play, and it’s hard to beat Tanglefree’s Flight Series Canvasback Decoys. Carved by Michael Braun, these four males and three hens sport ultra-realistic paint schemes and feather detail. The high-density foam fill is tough to beat, as is the tried-and-true weighted keel.

$85/6-pack | tanglefree.com

MOJO Outdoors – Flock-A-Flickers 2

Waterfowl hunters refer to it as a “flash” or “flick” — that brief glint seen when watching content ducks sitting on a pond or field. When passer-by ducks see these glints of movement, it gives them the confidence to come in. MOJO knows a thing or three about helping hunters put ducks in the decoys, and the new Flock A Flicker 2 4-Pack features an improved design with the same effective spinning wing beats that create that flash and flick, and the unit will work in water or on dry ground. Each unit can be programmed to spin at different times via the random on/off timers, and each will operate for up to 30 hours on three AA batteries.

$100 | mojooutdoors.com

Lucky Duck – Super Swimmer HDi

Realism on the water is essential to getting wings to cup and feet to drop, and one of the best tools you can add to your waterfowl arsenal to ensure this is Lucky Duck’s Super Swimmer HDi. This swimmer uses a jet-propulsion system to create natural swimming movement, and the decoy has a trio of timer modes. The durable EVA plastic handles wear and tear and promises no-fail use season after season. The Super Swimmer HDi includes a 12-volt lithium-ion rechargeable battery and a smart charger.

$180 | luckyduck.com

Decoy Central – Super Block Green-Winged Teal

Super Blocks are tough, affordable decoys than can bulk up your spread by mixing them in with your more expensive, ultra-realistic decoys. Floaters have high-contrast paint for great visibility and realistic detail, and are available in Mallard drake, Greenwing Teal drake and Lesser Canada Goose. Mallard feeding butt and mini spinner also available. Floaters have weighted keel with multiple head positions.

Starting at $30 | decoycentral.com

Avian-X – Topflight Early Season Mallards

Often, the difference between scratching out a few birds and filling duck totes is details. Enter Avian-X’s Topflight Early Season Mallards. These decoys accurately capture the early plumage of drake and hen mallards, and when this detail is combined with top-end paint adhesion, you get mallard imposters that bring ducks close. Each six-pack comes with a Feeder Drake, Feeder Hen, Swimming Hen, High-Head Drake, and a pair of Swimmer Drakes. The weight-forward swim-keel maximizes natural movement in the water.

$170 | avian-x.com

MOJO Outdoors – Mini Mallard Elite

MOJO’s Mini Mallard Elite is a waterfowling win and a staple for many duck killers. Smaller in size, this decoy is remote-ready and a breeze to tote around. The position of the motor, battery, and other operating components ensure less wobble, and the cam lock support pole, drop-in battery and on/off magnetic wings make setup quick. This realistic-looking duck fake comes with MOJO’s Multi-Decoy remote/receiver.

$120 | mojooutdoors.com

See how to store Chicken of the Woods in 3 simple ways. This will help you harvest a lot and still keep your mushrooms fresh for up to 12 months.

The season for Chicken of the Woods is typically from June to December. At least you can find them growing during this time frame. That means it is available for almost 6 months out of the year.

This means you can find it fresh a lot of the time. But you still may want to have some available the other 6 months of the year to eat as well.

Another thing about the Chicken of the Woods is when harvesting there will typically be A LOT of it.

How to Harvest Chicken of the Woods

You have 2 choices when you find it:

1. Only harvest enough that you can eat in 7 days fresh.
2. Harvest all of it and learn how to preserve Chicken of the Woods so it doesn’t go to waste.

If you choose to leave some just be aware that if someone else finds it then it will be gone or it could dry out before you are ready to harvest the rest of it.

One thing to note is that Chicken of the Woods (laetiporus sulphureus) is completely different mushroom from the Hen of the Woods (Maitake).

Before we get into how to store Chicken of the Woods, lets take a look at how to clean it before you store it…

How To Clean Chicken of the Woods Mushrooms

When it comes to cleaning the Chicken of the Woods it really doesn’t change to much from any other mushroom that you want to clean.

The main goal is to get it clean without it being wet for too long. If it is wet for to long the mushroom will start to absorb the water and get mushy.

Cleaning procedures:

1. Trim away any tough or bug eaten pieces.
2. Brush off as mush dirt as you can with a semi-wet mushroom brush.
3. Give it a quick rinse and rub down to get any other dirt off.
4. Immediately dry it completely with a paper towel (gently).

Now let’s take a look at the different options on how to store Chicken of the Woods mushroom…

How To Store Chicken of the Woods Mushroom

The method you choose in storing Chicken of the Woods mushrooms will basically depend on how long you want it to stay fresh as well as how you plan to eat it… Let’s learn more about preserving Chicken of the Woods.

1) Refrigerator

If you plan on eating your Chicken of the Woods within the next 7 days then you could use the refrigerator method.

Storing procedure:

1. Place the Chicken of the Woods mushroom in into a paper bag.
2. Put the paper bag into you refrigerator’s vegetable drawer.

Some people have had them last up to 3 weeks this way but after 1 week you would be pushing your luck.

If you plan to eat it all year round then you could store it in the freezer… Let’s see how to freeze Chicken of the Woods.

2) Freezer: How to Freeze Chicken of the Woods Mushrooms

If you plan on harvesting a whole lot of Chicken of the Woods for future consumption then you might want to consider freezing Chicken of the Woods. This is my favorite method!

Storing procedures:

1. Cut up your Chicken of the Woods into half inch shanks.
2. Place as many pieces into a big zip lock bag as you can.
3. Place the bag into the freezer.

This method has been show to keep your mushrooms super fresh for up to 12 months. When your ready to eat them just take them out and throw them onto the skillet (No need to thaw them out first).

They don’t seem to lose their flavor after being frozen so you won’t have to worry about them.

The cool thing about the Chicken of the Woods is that it can be stored without cooking it first. Many mushrooms (like the button mushroom) need to be cooked prior to freezing or they will lose their texture and flavor. This one doesn’t!

3) Drying Chicken of the Woods

If you goal is to use Chicken of the Woods in Soups then you could consider using a food dehydrator to dry out your mushroom.

Drying procedure:

1. Slice your Chicken of the Woods into half inch chunks.
2. Place the chunks all over the dehydrator tray so they are not touching.
3. Set the temperature to low and allow to run for 8 to 10 hours.
4. Place the dried chunks into a sealed mason jar or a zip lock bag and keep in a cool dry place.

If you do decide to dehydrate them then you can later put them in a soup to reconstitute them. If you want to reconstitute them without putting them in a soup then you can soak them in water for 15 – 60 minutes and then strain the water out.

Conclusion

Now you should have the confidence to know how to store this choice edible mushrooms so that you can enjoy it all year round.

This means next time you are out and come across the Chicken of the Woods you don’t have to worry about harvesting more then you can eat because you know that you will have 12 months to eat what you pick.

If you will be eating your mushrooms within the next 7 days you would use the refrigerator method otherwise you would want to use the freezer or drying methods.

Once it is time to cook your mushroom you may be interested in checking out our other article on the top 3 healthy ways to cook the Chicken of the Woods here:

In that article we cover the following healthy recipes:

1. Deep fried Chicken of the Woods
2. Sauteed Chicken of the Woods
3. Chicken of the Woods soup

This meaty textured mushroom is packed with protein, tastes like chicken and is a great substitute for meat. Don’t eat it raw though because it could cause gastric distress. It also has some pretty amazing medicinal benefits.

Thanks for reading and if you have any other ideas on how to store the Chicken of the Woods we would love to hear about it in the comments below!

For outdoor enthusiasts, nighttime wildlife watching can be an unforgettable experience. It offers them unique insights into the world of nocturnal creatures. To make the most of these adventures, having the right gear is crucial – and night vision goggles are a must-have!

Here are ten compelling reasons why investing in night vision goggles is a crucial for thrill-seeking individuals who want to enhance their nighttime wildlife watching experience:

Enhanced visibility

Night vision goggles amplify the available light. They make it easier to see in low-light conditions. This improved visibility is crucial for spotting nocturnal animals that might remain hidden.

Safety 

Exploring the great outdoors at night can be risky. This is especially true if you are unfamiliar with the terrain. Night vision goggles help you navigate your surroundings more confidently, reducing the likelihood of accidents or getting lost in the dark.

See unique animal behavior

Many species are more active at night, and they showcase interesting behaviors that aren’t visible during the day. With night vision goggles, you will have the chance to witness these fascinating nocturnal activities up close.

Minimal disturbance

Unlike flashlights or headlamps, night vision goggles don’t emit bright light that could scare off animals. Using goggles allows you to observe wildlife in a more natural setting without disturbing them.

Extended observation time

Equipped with night vision goggles, you can continue your wildlife watching well into the evening. This increases your chances of encountering a wider variety of species.

Better photography and videography

If you’re passionate about capturing wildlife through your camera lens, night vision goggles can help you achieve amazing results. They make spotting and tracking animals in low-light conditions a lot easier. This gives you more opportunities for unique and captivating shots.

Educational insights

Night vision goggles can deepen your understanding of the natural world. With this, you will learn more about the habits and behaviors of nocturnal animals. This knowledge can be particularly valuable for students, educators, or anyone passionate about wildlife.

Versatile equipment

Night vision goggles are useful for outdoor activities beyond wildlife watching, such as hiking, fishing, or stargazing.

Tips for Choosing the Perfect Night Vision Goggles

To achieve the best possible experience while observing nocturnal wildlife, it’s important to invest in the proper night vision goggles.

The following are some tips on how to find the perfect pair:

1. Determine the generation – night vision goggles come in different generations, each offering varying performance levels. While Generation 1 devices are more affordable, they provide lower image quality than their Generation 2 and 3 counterparts. Take into account your needs and budget when deciding.
2. Check the image quality – look for goggles that provide a clear, sharp image with good resolution and minimal distortion. High-quality optics are essential for a satisfying wildlife watching experience.
3. Assess the field of view – a wider field of view allows you to see more of your surroundings, making it easier to spot and track animals. Consider goggles with a larger field of view for a more immersive experience.
4. Evaluate the battery life – longer life means more time spent enjoying the nocturnal world without interruption. Look for night vision goggles with an efficient power source and replaceable batteries.
5. Examine durability and weather resistance – the great outdoors can be unpredictable, so choosing goggles that can withstand the elements is important. Opt for a durable, weather-resistant design to ensure your goggles perform well in various conditions.
6. Read review – before purchasing, read reviews from other users to understand the product’s performance and reliability better – look for testimonials from people who have used the goggles for nighttime wildlife watching to ensure they meet your needs.
7. Compare prices – night vision goggles can vary significantly, so finding a pair that offers the best value for your budget is important. Research and compare models and brands to find the best deals.
8. Consult experts – if you need help deciding which night vision goggles to choose, seek advice from knowledgeable sources. This can include professionals in the field, experienced wildlife watchers, or customer service representatives from reputable companies like https://nightflightconcepts.com/.

Bonus: 5 Quick Tips for Successful Nighttime Wildlife Watching with Night Vision Goggles

As a bonus, we’ve compiled a list of five handy tips to ensure a successful nighttime wildlife watching experience with your night vision goggles.

These quick pointers will help you make the most of your nocturnal adventures:

1. Familiarize yourself with your goggles – understand the features and settings of your night vision goggles to ensure a smooth wildlife watching experience.
2. Plan around the moon and weather – schedule your outings during darker moon phases and be mindful of weather conditions that may affect animal behavior.
3. Research local wildlife – study the animals native to the area you’re exploring to know their habitats, behaviors, and unique features.
4. Practice patience and stealth – wait quietly for the perfect moment to observe animals, and move silently to avoid disturbing them or their environment.
5. Utilize all your senses – listen carefully for sounds that can provide clues about nearby wildlife, and rely on your sense of touch and smell to navigate and detect changes in your surroundings.

Final Thoughts

Night vision goggles are invaluable for campers seeking to experience the fascinating world of nocturnal wildlife. By investing in a quality pair of goggles and following the tips, you will be well-prepared to embark on unforgettable nighttime adventures.

So, gear up, venture into the night, and discover the hidden wonders of wildlife that come alive after the sun sets. Happy wildlife watching!

In 1987, at 4 a.m. on a foggy August morning in southeast Alaska, William B. Steele had a decision to make: continue driving for 20 miles on gravel roads to reach his Sitka blacktail deer hunting area, or turn around? He’d chosen a large unnamed mountain to hunt, but the closer he got, the thicker the fog became.

When he reached the mountain he decided to hunt. But the weather was so bad, he almost turned around several times during a mile-long hike to the top of a 1,500-foot ridge. An hour later Steele reached a pass on the ridge, and as he picked his way through the fog he inadvertently jumped a few deer. Frustrated, he wondered why he was even there.

Overlooking a large bowl, Steele decided to take a break and glass for animals. As he ate a sandwich, he noticed a group of Sitka blacktails (Odocoileus hemionus sitkensis) 1,200 yards away, across the valley in a muskeg. Through the fog and mist, Steele got a glance at what looked to be a heavy-antlered deer. He decided to work his way across the bowl and try to get closer. He made a mental note of where the deer stood, took a compass bearing, and headed through the brush.

The wind was light and swirling, but mostly in his face as he started to creep through the timber toward the spot where he’d marked the deer. Eventually, he ran out of cover and had to proceed across an open muskeg toward the next stand of trees.

Suddenly, in the wide open, Steele spotted two of the largest bucks he’d ever seen, feeding through the trees, just 125 feet away. They were moving to his right when he noticed a stiff-legged doe to his left. Busted, he froze. The doe knew something was wrong, but couldn’t determine the threat. Out of the corners of his eyes Steele glanced at the bucks. One had fed nearly into view.

Knowing time was running out, Steele slowly raised his .30-06 and leaned to the right as far as he could without tipping over. He could see most of the buck past the tree so he put the crosshairs on its shoulder and squeezed the trigger. The buck jumped and then raced out of sight through the muskeg. It piled up no more than 150 feet away from Steele.

Steele packed out the animal and was on his way home when a dump truck driver behind him signaled him to pull over. The driver got out and told him he had shot a deer the week before that measured in the 125-point class, and he thought that Steele’s looked to be as big. After the velvet was removed and the trophy dried, it was officially scored at 126-2/8 points.

Editor’s Note: When William B. Steele’s Sitka blacktail was originally measured, it was scored as a typical because there was no non-typical category. When the non-typical Sitka blacktail category was created at the beginning of the Boone and Crockett Club’s 25th Awards Period, the score on Steele’s great trophy was changed to 134 points. It now stands as the largest Sitka blacktail ever recorded.

Are raccoons rodents? This is a question that many people ask about this commonly seen animal. Raccoons are considered by some to be in the same family as rats and mice, while others believe they are their own unique species. In this article, we will answer this question and provide you with more information about raccoons. Keep reading!

What are raccoons classified as? Are raccoon rodents or marsupials?

Raccoons are generally classified as either rodents or marsupials. They belong to the Carnivora order, meaning it’s a meat-eater, although a raccoon will eat anything available, including whatever is growing in your garden or sitting in your garbage can. Raccoons are members of the Procyonid family, which also includes ringtail cats, coatis of South America, and kinkajous of Central and South America.

Where does the word “raccoon” come from?

The word ‘raccoon’ is derived from the Algonquin Indian word ‘arakun,’ meaning ‘he who scratches with his hands.’ Raccoons are excellent climbers, often scaling trees and fences to get at food or avoid predators. They have sharp claws that enable them to climb and grasp things easily.

What do raccoons look like?

Raccoons are medium-sized animals with a body length of around 40 centimeters (16 inches), plus a tail that can add another 20 centimeters (8 inches) or more. They weigh between 4 and 12 kilograms (9 and 26 pounds). Males are generally larger than females. Raccoons have dense fur that consists of a soft undercoat and coarse outer guard hairs. The fur is usually grayish-brown but can range from pale silver to black. There is often a distinctive black “mask” across the eyes.

(Is Squirrel A Rodent? See this post for more)

What do raccoons eat?

Raccoons are omnivores, meaning they will eat just about anything. In the wild, their diet consists of fruits, vegetables, nuts, insects, rodents, small mammals, and even eggs. They are also known to eat garbage and pet food left outdoors.

(Do Raccoons Eat Cats? See this post for more)

FAQs

Raccoons vs. Possums: What’s the Difference?

Possums and raccoons may look similar, but there are some key differences between these two animals. For starters, possums are marsupials, meaning they have a pouch in which they carry their young. Raccoons, on the other hand, are not marsupials. Additionally, possums are typically smaller than raccoons and have longer noses. Possums also tend to be timider than raccoons and will usually only come out at night, whereas raccoons are active both day and night.

What is a Raccoon’s lifespan?

In the wild, a raccoon typically lives for 2-3 years. However, if they are living in captivity (i.e. in zoos or as pets), they can live for up to 20 years.

Are Raccoons dangerous?

While raccoons are not typically aggressive, they can be dangerous if they feel threatened. They may also carry diseases that can be harmful to humans, such as rabies. If you come into contact with a raccoon, it is important to wash your hands thoroughly and avoid touching your face. If you are bitten by a raccoon, you should seek medical attention immediately.

(How to get rid of chipmunks? See this post for more)

What do I do if I have a Raccoon problem?

If you are having problems with raccoons on your property, there are a few things you can do to deter them. First, make sure that there is no food or water available for them. This means keeping your garbage cans covered and not leaving pet food outside. You can also try to scare them away by making loud noises or shining a light on them. If these methods do not work, you may need to call a professional wildlife control company or use an air rifle to get rid of them. (For more on the best air rifle for pest control, see this post)

What Kingdom do Raccoons belong to?

Raccoons belong to the Animalia Kingdom.

What class do Raccoons belong to?

Raccoons belong to the Mammalia class.

What phylum do Raccoons belong to?

Raccoons belong to the Chordata phylum.

What family do Raccoons belong to?

Raccoons belong to the Procyonidae family.

What order do Raccoons belong?

Raccoons belong to the Carnivora order.

What genus do Raccoons belong to?

Raccoons belong to the Procyon genus.

What species do Raccoons belong to?

Raccoons belong to the Procyon lotor species.

In what type of habitat do Raccoons live?

Raccoons can live in a variety of habitats, including forests, mountains, and marshes. They are also commonly found in urban areas.

What is the main prey for Raccoons?

Raccoons eat fish, nuts, berries, and corn.

Tactical and competitive shooting sports are crossing over into the hunting world more than ever, sparking frequent debates about whether first or second focal plane scopes—or more accurately, the reticles inside the scopes—are better.

Also known as front and rear focal plane, this refers to the position of the lens etched with the reticle, in relation to the zoom mechanism.

If the reticle-etched lens is in front of the zoom mechanism, it’s called a first, or front, focal plane scope. The reticle is superimposed over the image in the scope on the same plane, so as you zoom in or out, the reticle larger or smaller, maintaining the same size in relation to your target.

If the lens etched with the reticle is behind the zoom mechanism, it’s called a second, or rear, focal plane scope. In this design, the reticle stays the same apparent size inside the scope all the time. As you zoom in or out, the image seen inside the optic gets larger or smaller but the reticle does not.

There are significant advantages and disadvantages of each type. Proponents of first focal plane designs are vociferous in proclaiming the virtues of their favorite. Users of second focal plane scopes tend, quite candidly, to be less educated in optic technicana, and unfortunately often just listen without debating.

Here’s the short answer as to which is actually best: It depends entirely on the intended purpose of the scope. If you’re a military sniper, or a “tactard” plinker, or a PRS competitive shooter, front focal plane scopes are best. If you’re a hunter, second focal plan scopes are usually best.

Here’s why.

Front Focal Plane Scopes

Military and tactical-type shooters often rely on hash reticle hash marks to compensate for wind drift, and for on-the-fly minor variances in bullet impact above or below expected point of impact. In a first focal plane scope, the hash marks on the reticle crosswire are the same predictable value no matter what magnification the scope is set on. Whether you are zoomed way in on a very small target, or zoomed way out so as to maximize our field of view when engaging multiple or moving targets, .2-MIL hash marks are always .2 MILs. If you need to hold for 6 MILs of wind drift, just use the appropriate hash mark and squeeze the trigger.

That’s it for the advantage of first focal plane reticles, folks. It’s a very simple, yet critical characteristic. The disadvantages are more nuanced, and as a result are harder for many shooters to grasp—until experienced for themselves.

Here’s the down side to front focal plane reticles: When the scope is zoomed way in, the reticle grows to the point where it becomes outlandishly thick. It can easily become so thick it obscures your target, making precise aiming difficult.

To compensate, most optic companies make front focal plane reticle crosswires really thin near the center. Unfortunately, that makes it so when you zoom way out, the reticle becomes super thin and can nearly vanish.

Most tactical and competitive shooters prefer to shoot with their scope on 10x or more, so it’s not really a problem for them. However, if you use a first focal plane reticle while hunting, that vanishing reticle on low power can be debilitating.

This is particularly true in low light conditions, and when the game animal is against a brushy background. To gather enough light to see the animal, you’ve got to zoom the scope all the way out. (Scopes gather and transfer light most effectively on low power.) Trouble is, with the reticle now spiderweb-thin, it vanishes in the twilight, especially if there’s brush around the animal.

Where legal, illuminated reticles can help overcome the vanishing-reticle syndrome. However, many states do not allow illuminated reticles for hunting. Plus, most illuminated reticles are too illuminated, meaning the entire thing or at least the major percentage of the reticle glows. A tiny pinpoint of light in the center of the reticle is wonderful; a Christmas tree worth of vibrant glowing reticle is distracting and can make it difficult to see through and find your quarry in the fading light.

Second Focal Plane Reticles

Second focal plane scopes are the world standard for hunters, and for good reason; the reticle stays the same size whether zoomed in or out. You can crank up to top magnification and see the wings on a fly at 100 yards; the reticle doesn’t become grossly fat. You can zoom all the way out for low-light hunting, and the reticle stays perfectly visible rather than thinning to obscurity.

I’m gonna take a cheap-shot at pseudo-tactical shooters that proclaim second focal plane reticles are outdated and near useless: Most shooters making such claims have little real-world experience on live targets, in wild environments; on stealthy game that moves only when the shadows grow long. Be a little more open-minded, and listen to the guys that consistently stalk and kill the wariest wild game, from torrid deserts to frigid timberline, in all kinds of weather and light conditions. You’ll learn something about what works best for hunting.

So, if second focal plane scopes are so good, what’s the down side? It applies to technical extended-range shooters that calculate wind holds, or hold over a distant target using reticle hash marks to compensate for bullet drop rather than dialing up.

If a second-focal-plane reticle incorporates hash marks, it has a significant Achilles Heel: They are only good at one magnification setting. For example, my favorite hunting reticle is Leupold’s WindPlex. It’s got one-MOA hash marks on the horizontal crosswire to help shooters accurately compensate for calculated wind drift. However, those hash marks span exactly one MOA only on max power. For example, a 3-18x 44mm Leupold VX-6HD must be zoomed all the way to 18x for the hashes to have exactly a one-MOA span.

I don’t like to shoot at game animals on max power. It’s hard to find your quarry when you’re zoomed all the way in. You almost never spot your own impacts, because the field of view is small and recoil causes your rifle to jump. It’s hard to find the animal for a fast follow-up shot. In Mexico, I once failed to get a critical second shot into an animal because my scope was on 18x. The big coues buck trotted off when the bullet hit, and I couldn’t get back on him.

Thankfully, there’s a shooter’s hack that helps: Set your scope on half power, and double the value of the hash marks. Set on 9x (halfway down from 18x), my Leupold reticle’s hash marks span two MOA.

As a result, unless inside 300 yards, I rarely use anything but half-magnification when hunting with second focal plane reticles equipped with hash marks.

There you have it: the primary pros and cons of first versus second focal plane scopes. Maybe, like me, you own and use both, and pick up whichever is appropriate for the task at hand. Perhaps you use just one rifle for everything from backcountry hunting to long-range cross-country NRL Hunter matches. In the end, only you can decide which is best for your purposes.

There is a common misconception that catfish are strictly freshwater fish. In coastal Georgia, South Carolina, and North Carolina, two species of catfish are prevalent. Anglers catch saltwater catfish regularly in these three states. Despite the two species living amongst each other, each has unique characteristics. Here is what you need to know about a hardhead catfish vs. a gafftopsail catfish.

Hardhead Catfish

The hardhead is along the east coast of the United States. Anglers catch a significant of hardheads when fishing the bottom.

What Is The Range Of A Hardhead Catfish

When it comes to range, the hardhead is widely distributed. Anglers catch the species as far north as New England but more frequently between Maryland and Florida.

What Is The Habitat Of A Hardhead Catfish

It is unlikely to find hardheads offshore of the Atlantic ocean except for the waters off the beaches.

The hardhead catfish prefers soft mud or sand bottoms along the coast, rivers, and brackish waters.

How To Identify A Hardhead Catfish

When it comes to identifying a hardhead, they are easy to distinguish from a gafftopsail catfish. The upper half of the sides and top range between gray and black depending on the habitat. The belly of the hardhead is silver to white.

When removing the hook, look closely at the mouth. Barbels extend from the bottom lip. Lastly, the condensed tail is deeply forked.

How Big Do Hardhead Catfish Grow

The hardhead catfish exceeds three pounds; however, it is most frequently caught between half a pound and a pound in weight. When comparing hardhead to other saltwater catfish, the hardhead is of a small size.

How Do You Catch Hardhead Catfish

Hardheads are not picky eaters. Catfish are bottom dwellers; therefore, you must present the bait on the seafloor.

When targeting hardhead, rig a hook beneath a lead weight heavy enough to hold the bottom. Tip the hook with shrimp, squid, cut fish, or chicken, and allow the bait to soak until the fish strikes. Rember to focus on soft seabeds, including sand and mud.

Are Hardhead Catfish Good To Eat

When filleting and eating catfish, the hardhead produces good fillets but is rarely eaten due to its size. The yield is minuscule.

Is A Hardhead Catfish Poisonous

Unfortunately, the dorsal and pectoral fin is covered in a protective slime. The slime layering assists in keeping fish out of harm’s ways. However, the slime results in anglers becoming stung by catfish.

The dorsal and pectoral fin are sharp. Avoid touching the and upper and lower fins when handling the catfish. What is most important is understanding that a venomous slime coats the fish. When the skin becomes punctured by a fin, the slime injects into the skin, causing extreme pain to the person handling the fish.

Gafftopsail Catfish

Despite the similarities, gafftopsail catfish differ from hardheads in many ways. Here is what to know about the gafftopsail catfish.

What Is The Range Of A Gafftopsail Catfish

The range of Gafftopsial catfish is the same as the hardhead. Gafftopsails extend between Florida and the northeast; however, they are less prevalent than the hardhead.

What Is The Habitat Of A Gafftopsail Catfish

The gafftopsail roams widely about the water column in search of food compared to the bottom-dwelling hardhead.

Gafftopsails scavenge for the next meal despite the depth of the water. The fish is caught in rivers, flats, and channels but predominantly in deep waters.

How To Identify A Gafftopsail Catfish

Despite the hardhead and gafftopsail falling under the catfish category, they two are significantly difference in appearance.

The mouth and head of a gafftopsail are significantly larger than a hardhead. As the name implies, the dorsal fin is sail-shaped and extends well above the body. Lastly, the dorsal and pectoral fins feature trailing streamers.

How Big Do Gafftopsail Catfish Grow

When it comes to size, gafftopsails are most frequently caught in the one-pound range; however, they are known to reach up to ten pounds.

How Do You Catch Gafftopsail Catfish

The best gear to target gafftopsail catfish are spinning rod and reel combinations. Like hardheads, use a lead weight and hook to reach the bottom. However, the best bait presentation is live fish.

Are Gafftopsail Catfish Good To Eat

The gafftopsail makes excellent table fare. Cut the flesh into chunks when filleting, douse them in flour, egg wash, and bread crumbs before frying.

Is A Gafftopsail Catfish Poisonous

Similar to the hardhead, gafftopsail are poisonous. Pay close attention to the spines on the dorsal and pectoral fins. A jab with any of the three fins leads to a painful wound that you would wish to have avoided.

Next Time You Head Out Saltwater Fishing You Will Know A Hardhead From A Gafftopsail Catfish

Both the hardhead and gafftopsail catfish are widely distributed across the east coast of the United States. The fish are excellent fighters on light tackle and are suitable for cooking up for dinner. To avoid becoming stung, we suggest wearing gloves when handling the fish. Lastly, remember to obtain a saltwater fishing license.