Your fishing reel is one of the most essential aspects of your gear. When you are targeting catfish, it becomes even more important! Catfish fishing reels are often a much-debated topic amongst anglers who love to chase these amazing fish. Using the wrong type or size of reel could be catastrophic and lose you a fish when you least expect it.

It is important to know what features you need in a good catfish reel and what kind of power you need out of it. After all, catfish can grow to enormous sizes and put some very serious strain on your equipment. By carefully selecting the right type of fishing reel, you can save yourself plenty of time, money, and trouble in the long run.

The first thing to consider is the species of catfish that you will be after. There are many different species out there, and each one is different. You should also consider what size of catfish you intend to catch from these species, as they can be very small (one to ten pounds) or extremely large (50+ pounds). Again, catfish are strong fish and the size will factor into your fishing reel selection.

There are three main species of catfish that anglers will be fishing for, blue catfish, channel catfish, and flathead catfish. These fish are all very different from each other. All of them, however, are very powerful and can grow to tremendous sizes. Because of this, you need the right type of reel. But which type should you select?

Among the many types of fishing reels that are available, there are two, in particular, that stands out when it comes to catfish. These are conventional reels and spinning reels. Let’s take a look at spinning reels, to begin with.

Spinning reels are one of the most popular types of fishing reels, and for certain situations, can be great for catfish. Spinning reels utilize a wire bale across the top of the reel that flips back and forth when you are casting. This makes them much easier to use and cast with than others like baitcasting reels. Because of their ease of use, they are very widespread and come in many different shapes and sizes.

Spinning reels are great for small to medium-sized catfish. If a catfish is too large, it can damage or even break the spinning reel with its power due to its design. If you are targeting truly large catfish, you are better off using the other type of reel: conventional reels.

Conventional reels (sometimes known as baitcasting or saltwater reels) are the best option for big catfish. These reels are bigger, heavier, and stronger. They are made to handle large fishing lines and weight and feature great drag systems for fighting heavy fish. For this reason, they are the number one choice amongst anglers chasing large saltwater fish or big catfish.

Both spinning reels and conventional reels are great choices for catfish depending on your style and the fish you intend to catch. Both will have their own unique advantages and disadvantages, but both are the best options for catching the elusive catfish. There are many great options of both types out on the market today, but with so many to choose from, where do you begin? Luckily you have come to the right place! Let’s take at some great fishing reels that can aid you in your next catfish fishing trip.

KastKing Rover Round Baitcasting Reel

The Rover Round baitcasting reel by KastKing is a conventional reel that is extremely tough and durable. It is reinforced with thick, hard anodized aluminum in the side plates and uses a CNC machined spool to be as strong as possible. All of the various gears are precision cut and made of high-quality metals, ensuring that they offer the best durability and are resistant to corrosion. With a carbon fiber drag system, you can enjoy up to 30 pounds of silky smooth drag. So how does this help catch catfish? With how tough it is, even the largest catfish will not be able to break this reel. The Rover Round by Kastking is available in many different configurations and options, allowing you to get the exact model you need for your style of fishing. With a fantastic design and high-quality build, this fishing reel will last you for years to come.

KastKing Kapstan Elite Saltwater Spinning Reel

Although the Kapstan Elite is designed to be a saltwater spinning reel, its excellent construction and design make it one of the best catfish spinning reels on the planet. Because it was made to be fished offshore, it features waterproof rubber rings to ensure no water, mud, or debris gets into your reel to mess it up. The carbon fiber drag system has a giant drag for the size (depending on the model you get) and the oversized spool disc allows you to use any size of fishing line that you need. An all-aluminum body and solid construction mean you can reel in any catfish you want. Available in a few different options, the Kapstan Elite is one of the best spinning reels out on the market, especially if you intend to catch large catfish.

KastKing ReKon Line Counter Fishing Reel

Last but certainly not least, the KastKing ReKon Line Counter fishing reel is another big conventional reel that has high durability and high-quality parts to ensure any size of catfish can be handled. It features an accurate mechanical line counter that allows you to know where to keep your bait so that you can target the zone where you are catching fish and know how much line is left. This large reel can hold plenty of lines, and the all metal parts ensure it is resistant to corrosion while out on the water. No matter what type or size of catfish you are after, the ReKon line counter reel by KastKing is an exceptional choice!

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Weed management is rarely at the top of anyone’s list of desirable to-dos. Bending over and pulling weeds is a lot of work, and it’s rarely a permanent solution. Spraying weed killer isn’t the best alternative since the chemicals aren’t good for grass or the pollinators that may land or feed on those weeds.

Instead of breaking your back or introducing harmful chemicals into your lawn’s ecosystem, consider smoking out those pesky plants with a weed torch. These handheld torches run on propane and focus a small but scorching flame on stubborn invasive weeds. This guide helps shoppers choose the best weed torch for a particular yard or garden.

We tested the following weed torches in our lawns, vegetable gardens, and ornamental landscape beds. Read on to find out how we selected these models, how they performed on our backyard tests, and which may be the best weed torch for your lawn and garden maintenance needs.

1. BEST OVERALL: Red Dragon VT 1-32C 25,000 BTU Mini Weed Dragon Torch
2. RUNNER-UP: Flame King YSN340K Auto Ignition Propane Torch
3. BEST BANG FOR THE BUCK: Flame King YSNPQ810CGA Propane Torch Weed Burner
4. BEST HEAVY-DUTY: Red Dragon BP 2512 SVC 400,000 Backpack Weed Torch
5. BEST FOR GRAVEL: Gaspony TB-PFP Power Flame Pro 500,000 Propane Torch
6. BEST FOR PAVERS: Flame King YSNPQ820S Wide Flame Propane Torch Burner
7. BEST FOR GARDEN: Houseables 20,000 BTU Weed Torch Propane Burner
8. ALSO CONSIDER: Ausail 50,000 BTU Weed Torch Propane Burner

How We Tested the Best Weed Torches

We set up our weed torch testing regimen to simulate real-world working conditions. We spent more than 6 hours, or an average of about 45 minutes per torch, in testing. In addition to the operational tests outlined below, we evaluated ease of assembly, operator comfort, effectiveness in killing weeds, and durability. After assembling each torch according to the manufacturer’s instructions, we installed fuel tanks, tested for leaks, and recorded the weight and dimensions of each unit.

We assigned specific areas of the lawn, vegetable garden, and landscape beds to specific torches and labeled the areas accordingly. Each area contained similar coverage of weeds and desirable plants, and the terrain was also comparable from one plot to the next. One at a time, we lit the torches and treated the assigned spaces. Walking at a slow pace, we passed the flame across any weed leaves and stems without stopping. The intense heat desiccated the green leaves, and there was no need to char them.

After the treatment, we evaluated the weed dieback and monitored for regrowth. We inspected each space 3, 7, and 14 days after the initial treatment. After recording the Day 14 observations, we treated each area a second time. Finally, we entered our observations on a scoring rubric to help clarify an overall evaluation and award recommendations for each tool.

Our Top Picks

We’ve identified and tested some of the best weed torches on the market. Our lineup includes compact tools, heavy-duty models, and high-powered torches for a broad spectrum of property types and users. Read the individual product reviews ahead to learn more about them and to find the best option for specific uses.

Jump to Our Top Picks

What to Consider When Choosing a Weed Torch

Between how a torch works and lights to its size and features, choosing this gardening tool does take a bit of background research. It’s important to understand how these tools function and to evaluate the area to be treated before scorching those dandelions. The following are a few important shopping considerations to keep in mind while searching for the best weed torch.

Lightweight vs. Heavy-Duty

There are two styles of weed torches: lightweight and heavy-duty. Lightweight weed torches, equipped with bent tubes that attach to a small 1-pound propane gas canister, are the more portable option. Heavy-duty torches are for large-scale jobs and have hoses that can connect to a full-size 20-pound tank.

Choosing between the two styles is really a matter of preference, but here are a few points to help decide between the two.

Lightweight torches

Pros

• Easily portable
• User-friendly
• Operate with lower temperatures

Cons

• Lack volume for extended use
• Do not use refillable tanks

Heavy-duty torches

Pros

• Offer plenty of volume for long burns
• Powerful
• May have adjustable flame
• Use refillable propane tanks

Cons

• Heavy and difficult to carry around
• May be noisy

Ignition Methods

There are generally two ways to light a torch: via built-in igniters or manual strikers.

Built-in igniters work similarly to the striker used to light a barbecue grill. They’re usually attached to the tube and feature a push-button spark. With the gas turned on, the striker safely lights the flame at the end of the tube. The pressure of the gas pushes the flame out to the end of the torch, and then it’s ready to kill weeds.

Manual strikers can be a little trickier to use. Similar to the strikers used in some high school chemistry classes, manual strikers need to be in proximity to gas when struck to light the flame. This could make some DIYers nervous, in which case a built-in igniter might be the better option.

Hose Length

When considering weeding tools, it’s important to think about the size of the area that needs to be treated. Most heavy-duty torches are meant to run on large 20-pound propane tanks, so hose length can affect maneuverability among the weeds. In general, a 10-foot hose is ideal. This length is long enough to cover a wide area, yet short enough to prevent the user from tripping or falling.

Those needing to cover a large area of land while using the torch may wish to purchase an additional cart or dolly to hold the heavy propane tank. The wheels will make moving it across the yard easier.

Bell

Some weed torches are equipped with a bell-shaped shroud at the end of the torch. This bell helps the torch to retain heat and direct the flame, creating a more efficient burn.

While efficiency is always a bonus, it’s not always necessary when it comes to weed torches. It might take a little longer to kill weeds using a lightweight model without a bell, but it’s usually only a difference of a few seconds.

A bell also helps shield other plants from the intense heat created by the flame. If the plan is to work with a torch around sensitive plants, consider a torch with a bell. Keep in mind, however, that using a torch of any kind in a mulch-laden flower bed is a bad idea.

Variable-Flame Control

The ability to control the flame is another important factor to consider when it comes to purchasing a new weed burner, as too much heat may cause the user to unintentionally burn valuable plants with a large flame. Plus, without an adjustable flame, users may run through a canister of propane before covering their entire yard.

Most of the products featured in this guide include control valves that can be dialed up or down to throttle the amount of fuel passing through the wand. Some heavy-duty torches feature boost handles that can temporarily increase the size and temperature of the flame. Simply squeeze the valve to increase the volume and pressure for tougher weeds and release it to return it to its normal setting.

Heat Rating

It’s important to review the heat rating for potential weed torches. Rather than using degrees Fahrenheit (which won’t describe output of the torch), torch heat ratings are quantified using BTUs, and there is a wide range of BTU ratings available.

Most weed burnersproduce at least 20,000 BTUs, which is plenty of heat for burning a weed. Heavy-duty models can produce up to 500,000 BTUs, which isn’t usually needed for common yard weeds. A torch that offers between 20,000 and 100,000 BTUs is often more than adequate.

Safety Features

As a general rule, weed torches aren’t inherently safe. They don’t have a safety valve, they produce lots of heat, and their nozzles get very hot. Gloves and safety glasses help protect users, but there simply isn’t much one can do to make a weed tool like this 100 percent safe.

Features such as built-in gas-control valves, built-in trigger starts, and hoses of safe lengths can reduce some of the risks involved in burning yard weeds. A built-in igniter ensures that the user’s hand is kept a safe distance away from the flame, while the gas-control valve helps throttle back the amount of flame the torch produces to keep things under control. Using a hose of proper length can prevent users from tripping.

Crucial safety tip: Never use a torch or flame of any sort to remove poison ivy. The oil that poison ivy produces (urushiol) is what causes skin blisters and other painful reactions. When the plant burns, that oil attaches to the smoke particles and can travel through airways and land on skin, causing potentially serious health hazards.

Tips for Using a Weed Torch

In general, a quick blast of heat will break down the cells that weeds need to grow, even if they don’t turn completely black. The best time to use a weed torch is on a wind-still day after a good soaking rain. While weed torches are safe if used properly, the soaked terrain will help reduce the risk of an accident, and low wind speeds help keep the flames controllable.

Always keep a hose or a bucket of water nearby while burning weeds, and remove leaves and debris from the area before torching the weeds. Leaves and debris will burn much faster than weeds, and passing over them with a lit torch can lead to an unintended fire in no time.

• A quick pass of heat is often enough to kill a weed without charring it to embers.
• Use on a calm day with no wind and after it has rained to torch weeds safely.
• Keep water on hand and remove leaves and debris before torching weeds.

FAQs

If you want more info about buying or using the best weed torches, read on for answers to some of the most frequently asked questions about these garden tools.

Q. How does a weed torch work?

Weed torches use propane-fueled flames to cook the cells inside of a weed, inhibiting its ability to use sunlight (or photosynthesis) for energy and growth.

Q. How hot do weed torches get?

Weed burners vary in their heat output, with some models producing more than others. Common torches range between 20,000 and 500,000 BTUs.

Q. Can a weed torch help with poison ivy?

Burning poison ivy is a bad idea. The oil in poison ivy, oak, or sumac that causes itchy blisters is called urushiol. If you burn these plants, the oil attaches itself to the smoke particles, which can land in your lungs and cause serious respiratory irritation.

Q. Do I need to reduce the weed to ash or simply brown it to destroy it?

Generally speaking, burning the weeds to charred ash isn’t necessary. Simply heating the plant for a few seconds until it wilts should be enough to destroy it.

Q. How do you start a weed burner?

Starting a weed burner is typically very easy. Start by attaching the propane to the wand, or the hose to the propane tank, depending on the model. Next, open the valve on the propane tank, if it has one. Then open the valve on the wand to let some gas pass through. Finally, press the built-in igniter or use a striker held (safely) near the nozzle while striking to light the weed torch.

Why Trust Bob Vila

BobVila.com has been a trusted resource for DIY information since 1996. Bob Vila has been America’s Handyman since 1979. As the host of beloved and groundbreaking TV series including “This Old House” and “Bob Vila’s Home Again,” he popularized and became synonymous with “do-it-yourself” home improvement. Over the course of his decades-long career, Bob Vila has helped millions of people build, renovate, repair, and live better each day—a tradition that continues today with expert yet accessible home advice.

The Bob Vila team distills need-to-know information into project tutorials, maintenance guides, tool 101s, and more. Our hands-on product reviews detail real-world results based on hours of thorough testing by subject-matter experts. These home and garden experts then thoroughly research, vet, and recommend products that support homeowners, renters, DIYers, and professionals in their to-do lists.

So you’re at your favorite local sporting goods store, looking at the deer feeders, and you notice that they’re a little on the pricey side. Not only that, but they’re mostly pretty simple designs. And you think to yourself, “I wonder if I could just make my own and save some money?”. Well, you can!

An effective DIY deer feeder is easy to make, even for the most mechanically challenged. You can make them as simple or as complicated as you want, and with some creativity, you can make one out of stuff you already have lying around, taking up space on your property. Here are five ways you can quickly build your DIY deer feeder that will be higher quality than the store bought ones and a heck of a lot cheaper too.

Most Common Homemade Deer Feeder Designs

• PVC Pipe Gravity Feeders – Quick and easy to make, transport, and set up. You can make them in different sizes to hold more or less feed. And they have the added benefit of being low profile and unobtrusive.
• Buckets & Drums – These can hold larger amounts of feed, so they don’t have to be filled as often and can be made from discarded, easily obtained materials.
• Tripods – A tripod mounted bucket or drum gives you more versatility with placement, and they’re more stable. They can also be equipped with a motorized automatic feeder to drop feed on a schedule or use the simple gravity feed method.
• Troughs – Simple frame construction to hold protein or corn. Instead of spilling onto the ground, the feed fills a trough.

1. Poor Man’s PVC Feeder

This design is just what it says, all the materials can be bought at your local hardware store for $50 or less, and the only tools needed are a drill and a hacksaw.

You pour your corn or whatever feed you’re using into the top of the tube, and gravity keeps it moving downward as it gets eaten.

It has a drain at the bottom to let out any rainwater that gets in to keep the feed from becoming moldy. Deer will have no problem getting their snout into the pipe to retrieve the feed.

Bill Of Materials

• One PVC pipe of the desired length (at least 3’ and up to 10’) and 6” diameter
• Two 6” PVC slip-on end caps
• One 6” PVC Wye (Y) coupler
• Several small eye-bolts (number depending on length)
• One can PVC primer
• One can PVC cement
• Spray paint for camouflage
• Power drill
• Hacksaw

Steps

1. Cut the 6” PVC pipe to the desired length. The longer it is, the less often you’ll have to fill it, but longer ones will be harder to reach to fill.
2. Primer the end of the pipe and one female end of the Wye coupler following the directions for use. Add cement to both pieces and attach them.
3. Drill some holes for drainage in one of the end caps, primer and cement the inside edge, and attach it to the bottom of the Wye coupler.
4. Drill holes along the side of the pipe to attach eye-bolts. These will be used as strapping points to secure it to the tree. Number required depends on length.
5. Take the end cap that will cover the top of the feeder and drill one hole in the center and one in the side, with a corresponding hole in the main pipe. Attach one eye-bolt in the top to use as a handle. The second eye-bolt will attach the lid to the pipe to keep the raccoons from raiding your feeder.

You can mount your new feeder to a tree with bungee cords, ratchet straps, or rope. You can also find pre-made drain caps at the store but make sure the holes are small enough to keep your feed in.

2. 5-Gallon Bucket Deer Feeder

Another easy-to-build and ridiculously affordable feeder. It uses a 5-gallon bucket to hold the feed, with a small hole cut into the bottom.

A wooden bridge is fitted across the inside of the bucket about two inches from the bottom that suspends a length of an all-thread rod through the hole. A large tin can is suspended from the bottom of the rod so the wind or nudging deer can cause the feed to fall from the hole.

The feed is kept in the bucket until the can is moved by a washer slightly larger than the hole suspended on the rod an inch or so below the hole, just enough to keep the feed in the bucket until the rod is moved when a small amount of feed will drop to the ground.

Bill Of Materials

• One 5-gallon bucket with a lid
• One ¼”-20 all-thread rods (threaded along the whole length) about 36” long
• Five ¼” washers and one 2” washer
• Six ¼” nuts
• One 1” x 2” board 16” in length
• One large tin can (or similar item)
• Power drill
• Saw

Steps

1. Cut a 1” wide hole in the bottom of the bucket
2. Cut two 2” long sections off of the board then trim the board to fit across the bottom of the bucket (most 5-gallon buckets are 10.33” across at the bottom)
3. Drill a hole through the middle of the board aligned with the hole in the bucket, large enough to allow the rod to swing slightly, nail or screw 2” pieces to the end of the board as supports, place in bottom of the bucket
4. Place 2” washer on the rod with ¼” washers and nuts on each side, double nuts on the lower side to keep it securely in position on the rod
5. Secure the rod from the wooden bridge through the hole in the bucket, adjust the 2” washer so it’s about 1” below the hole
6. Drill ¼” hole through the side of the can in the middle, attach to end of the rod with nuts and washers

Use a rope to hang your 5-gallon feeder over your spot, adjusted so the deer can reach up and nudge the can for feed. Ensure your 2” washer is placed so the feed can flow, but not too quickly. The sound of the feed plinking on the can will also attract other deer in the area when they get accustomed to it.

3. 55-Gallon Drum Gravity Feeder

This one takes a bit more work to make but it’s very economical to build. If you live a long way from your property or can’t get out there very often, this will hold enough feed to last for a while.

This plan leaves the lid attached to the drum to make sure rainwater stays out. It’s simply a 55-gallon drum mounted a few feet off the ground on a wooden platform and held in place with a ratchet strap.

Four 2” holes are cut around the bottom of the drum and 2” PVC elbows are inserted and cemented in place to channel the feed. Then cheap and readily available 12” drywall mud trays are bolted underneath the channels to hold the feed.

The drum can be filled by removing the plugs on top and using a large funnel. It’s secure and stable and works quite well.

Bill Of Materials

• One watertight 55-gallon plastic drum
• Materials for platform
• Four 2” PVC elbow joints
• Four 12” drywall mud trays
• Eight screws
• PVC cement
• Power drill

Steps

1. Build a platform to hold drum 2’ off the ground securely. You can do this with boards, concrete blocks, or even PVC tubing. Just be sure it can handle the weight and won’t tip over.
2. Cut 2” holes at four points around the bottom of the barrel about 4” up.
3. Insert 2” elbows into holes and cement in place. You can cut off part of the elbow to let the feed enter at a lower angle.
4. Drill holes in corners of drywall mud trays and corresponding holes in the drum to attach the trays underneath the feed channel. Screw trays in place.
5. Attach drum to the platform with a ratchet strap.

You’ll want to use spray paint to camouflage your feeder before you begin. If you have a white plastic drum you can leave a strip unpainted so you can observe the feed level.

4. Tripod Feeder

If you’re looking to build a feeder that’s easy to transport, holds a lot of feed, and automatically distributes feed on a timed schedule, this is the plan for you.

This design uses a metal or plastic drum of whatever size you choose equipped with a motorized automatic feeder such as the type manufactured by American Hunter, Moultrie, and other companies.

Aluminum tubing is used to make a tripod with detachable legs that can be easily taken off for transport and reattached with a quick release pin. The brackets to hold the legs are made from tubing slightly larger than the legs so that they can slide inside and be secured with a pin.

A hole is cut into the bottom of the drum to allow feed into the motorized feeder. A funnel can be fitted to the inside bottom of the drum to ensure that all the feed is used.

Bill Of Materials

• One metal or plastic drum, camo painted
• Aluminum tubing, two different diameters
• Six 1/4” bolts with washers and nuts
• Plastic tubing caps
• Motorized automatic feeder
• Large funnel
• Power drill and bits
• Hacksaw
• Basic hand tools

Steps

1. Cut leg tubing to the desired length. For bracket tubing, cut three 14” lengths.
2. Flatten 4” on one end of bracket tubes and drill two ¼” holes for bolts. Drill another hole 4” from the round end for connecting pin.
3. Cut hole in the bottom of the drum the approximate size of the feeder entry
4. Drill holes in drum and attach brackets with bolts
5. Drill ¼” hole in leg tubes 4” from the end that will slide into the bracket
6. Bolt automatic feeder to bottom of the drum, fit funnel over the hole in the bottom
7. Install tubing caps on end of legs and attach to bracket with a quick-release pin

Remember to put a piece of plywood under leg caps to keep legs from sinking in soft ground.

5. Protein Trough

This simple design can be done in several ways, but this plan is super sturdy and will last for years. It uses a 55-gallon drum cut in half to hold the feed, mounted on a covered platform made with 4” x 4”s and corrugated roofing panels. A little wood construction experience will help, along with access to the appropriate power tools.

Bill Of Materials

• 55-gallon plastic drum with lid
• Three 4” x 4” x 8’ treated beams
• Three 2” x 4” boards
• Three sheets of corrugated roof panels
• ¼” bolts, nuts, and washers or screws

Steps

1. Cut 55-gallon drum in half
2. Construct frame, and two upright posts mounted on beams with a crossbeam at the top and another about 32” above the ground.
3. Build a roof frame on the platform with 2” x 4”s
4. Attach corrugated roofing panels to frame

Make sure the roof covers enough to protect the feed and brace the posts with 2” x 4” sections.

To spot and stalk or ambush hunt — that is the question

I have always been plagued with that dilemma ever since I started down this venture we call hunting. Growing up, we always still hunted or ambush hunted. I really wasn’t exposed to spot and stalk hunting until a few years ago. When I did go down the spot and stalk path, I couldn’t help but just want to find somewhere where I could sit and wait for that bear or buck to walk by though. In turn, when I was ambush hunting, I couldn’t stop thinking about what I could be seeing if I was glassing at that time. It was definitely a “grass is greener on the other side” scenario for me and, sometimes, it still is.

So which is better?

I feel like there really isn’t a concrete answer for this question. Everybody is different and different situations call for different types of hunting strategies. For instance, it wouldn’t be the best idea to spot and stalk hunt in country where you couldn’t see 10’ in front of you. This would call for more of a still hunting/ambush hunting approach. The whole idea behind spot and stalk is to spot the animal from a good distance away and plan a stalk in order to get close enough for a shot. Could that be done in dense country? Yes, it could. Is it the most productive way of hunting there? In my opinion, no. Let’s take a look at both applications.

Spot and stalk

This is by far my favorite way to hunt. Sitting on a high vantage point and overlooking vast open country with my binoculars brings a calming feeling to me. It’s like a never ending puzzle that is begging to be solved. Where will you see the animals? What animals will you see? Will you even see anything? If you do, how are you going to make your approach? I have learned more about deer hunting this way than any other animal. It is such an added benefit, in my opinion, to be able to sit there and watch animals from a long ways away act like themselves and do their thing. What part of the hill do they tend to walk on? What facing slope are they choosing over the others? Where are they bedding? That one is the most important, especially for a spot and stalk bowhunter. If you can glass a deer up and actually watch where it beds, now the game has really begun. Being able to do this is going to give you a lot more time to get over to where that animal is because you really don’t need to worry too much about that animal moving its position. Also, if you have never experienced the rush of sneaking up on a bedded deer or herd of elk, you are missing out. This is where our natural predatory instincts kick in and they are put to the ultimate test. Try it out sometime.

Ambush hunting

This type of hunting brings its own set of adrenaline rush. I can remember being a kid and sitting up against a tree with my dad. It was the first archery hunt that I had ever gone on. The day before we saw two or three amazing mule deer bucks and found a prominent trail leading up a fence line right towards where we were positioned for the morning. Just as the sun was peaking over the hillside in front of me, I saw antlers along with it. A beautiful old buck with a gray patch on his back slowly worked his way down towards me. I was so shaken up, I literally couldn’t pick up my bow. The old warrior walked right past me at 10 yards without an arrow to his name. That deer still haunts me.

Continued below.

Ambush hunting can be the most boring experience known to mankind, especially if you are a little kid. I have had the thought of bringing an audio book with me into the blind or perhaps a podcast. The hard nose in me says that this will take away from my experience and that those things don’t belong in the mountains and maybe they don’t. The plus with it, though, is that if you do see something, chances are you are going to be presented with a shot. I will admit that it is a very exciting experience hearing something walking towards you and not being able to see it until it comes into view. There is no better way to get close to game than letting the game get close to you.

Which method is the best way to go?

I am afraid that only you can answer that question. How do you prefer to hunt? If you don’t care, then take a look at the country you will be hunting. What application do you think is going to lend success? I myself prefer to spot and stalk as I have stated above. Because of this, I try to find country that allows me to do so. The past few months, I have been fighting with myself on how to approach my next spring bear hunt. In the past it has been a constant battle of spot and stalk or ambush hunting. In the end, I decided to do what makes me happy and plays to my strengths, successful or not. If you like sitting in a blind or treestand, then do it! If you’re like me and enjoy looking through your optics and playing “Where’s Waldo?” with the quarry you seek, then do it! You write your own story.

Estimated read time: 3-4 minutes

SALT LAKE CITY — Filmmaker Joseph LeBaron had never heard the stories about whales living in the Great Salt Lake. In fact, the Utah native had rarely even spent much time at the lake.

That changed in 2015 when NPR radio host Doug Fabrizio reached out to see if LeBaron’s team would be interested in filming an interview with Dr. Lynne McNeill, a folklore specialist at Utah State University. The topic? An infamous article published in 1888 about whales being released into the Great Salt Lake.

Needless to say, LeBaron was intrigued.

“The article was about a scientist named James Wickham who came from England to try to start a whale oil fishery in the Great Salt Lake,” recalled LeBaron. “He apparently spent a couple of years off the coast of Australia to capture a breeding pair of whales, and then transported them to Utah by train, in giant tanks of water.”

LeBaron’s team decided that the project was going to require more effort than originally planned. The story was simply too big to capture in a three-minute edit. With their eyes now set on a short film, the filmmakers began scouting the Great Salt Lake.

“We quickly fell in love with the lake,” said LeBaron. “Even though the Great Salt Lake is so important to the state for many, many reasons, it had never felt like a destination place for me. Now I realize that it’s just so incredibly beautiful and wild and weird.”

The team soon realized it would be impossible to film on the lake, as declining levels made it too shallow. Each year, they’d go out to check the depth to see if “this was finally the year to film.” But the lake just got more and more shallow.

“It was really hard for us to see this beloved character disappearing before our eyes,” LeBaron said. “Ultimately, we got scrappy and were able to get the shots we needed. And through our newfound love of the lake, we grew into activists and saw an opportunity for this film to act as a call to conservation.”

LeBaron sought out an impact partner — FRIENDS of Great Salt Lake was the ideal match, as part of their mission is to increase public awareness and appreciation of the lake through education, research and the arts. Their partnership will culminate in a film premier for the completed short film, “Whales of the High Desert,” on Aug. 25. The event will feature live music and multiple food trucks at Industry SLC, 650 S. 500 West, in Salt Lake City.

Since Fabrizio was the impetus for the whole project when he first contacted LeBaron about the story nearly a decade ago, it’s only fitting that he’ll be emceeing a panel discussion at the premier about the film and conservation efforts for the Great Salt Lake. Panel members include Bonnie K. Baxter, director of the Great Salt Lake Institute at Westminster College; Lynne S. McNeill, professor of folklore at Utah State University; and, Holly Simonsen, programs director at FRIENDS of Great Salt Lake.

All proceeds from the event will go to FRIENDS of Great Salt Lake to support their ongoing conservation efforts. You can get details and reserve tickets by clicking here.

And if you’re wondering whether the mysterious story about whales in the Great Salt Lake is true — it’s worth noting that even the filmmakers and experts involved with the project have a hard time answering that question.

There’s no concrete evidence available to support the claim, which suggests it’s unlikely to have occurred. But the thrilling possibility that whales called the Great Salt Lake home, even briefly, has helped keep the legend alive all these years.

Photos

Most recent Great Salt Lake stories

Themed parties are a great way to bring friends and family together for an unforgettable experience. If you’re looking for some unique ideas that will make your next themed adult party stand out, we’ve got you covered! We’ve gathered 6 unconventional themes perfect for getting everyone in attendance excited about the upcoming festivities. Whether you want something more subtle or outrageous and over-the-top, one of these six ideas is sure to be just what you need!

Mystery Dinner

Step back in time to the roaring 1920s where dinner parties were the events of the year. But this isn’t just any ordinary dinner, it’s a mystery dinner. As you indulge in a delectable three-course meal, you’ll work alongside your fellow guests to solve one of the most intriguing mysteries of the year. Who committed the heinous crime? Was it the sly butler? Or perhaps the sultry singer? With clues hidden throughout the room and red herrings designed to throw you off course, it’s up to you to put your detective skills to the test. So don your finest flapper dresses and fedoras, and join in on the thrilling fun of the mystery dinner.

Movie Night

Are you a die-hard fan of movie characters like Harry Potter, Luke Skywalker, or even the Joker? Well, get ready to bring those characters to life! It’s time for a movie night that’s unlike any other. You won’t just be watching your favorite films, you’ll be able to dress up as your favorite characters and even recreate some of the most memorable movie scenes of all time. This is your chance to unleash your inner actor and show off your creative side. So grab your popcorn, get your outfit ready, and get ready for an unforgettable movie night that will transport you into the magical world of the big screen.

Game Night

Looking for a fun and social activity to enjoy with your friends? Consider hosting a game night! Whether you prefer classic board games or challenging card games like poker, there’s sure to be something for everyone. You could even mix it up with a gel ball gun game for a futuristic twist! With snacks, drinks, and a little friendly competition, game night is the perfect opportunity to unwind and spend quality time with your friends. So clear your schedule, set up a game table, and let the fun begin!

Sing-Along Party

Get ready to belt out your favorite tunes with a sing-along party! All you need are some karaoke versions of your go-to songs and a group of enthusiastic friends. With each person taking turns to showcase their singing skills, it’s sure to be a night of non-stop laughter and fun. Whether you’re hitting those high notes or singing along to the classics, a sing-along party is the perfect way to spend an evening. So dust off your vocal cords and get ready to sing your heart out!

Old-Fashioned Tea Party

Step back in time with an old-fashioned tea party, where you can indulge yourself in an elegant and refined atmosphere. Bring out your fanciest tea set and set the table with elegant linens to create a vintage vibe that will transport you to a bygone era. Add a touch of sophistication with a selection of scrumptious scones, perfect for savoring with a generous dollop of clotted cream and jam. Sip on a cup of your favorite brew, and enjoy a delightful afternoon in the company of loved ones. Celebrate tradition and the finer things in life with an old-fashioned tea party that will captivate your guests and leaves them feeling thoroughly spoiled.

Art Show

There’s nothing quite like appreciating the creativity and talent of your friends. Hosting an art show is the perfect excuse to invite your creative pals over and showcase their latest masterpieces. From stunning paintings to intricate sketches, the possibilities are endless. And what better way to add some competitive flair than by offering a prize for the best artwork? It’s not just about winning though, it’s about sharing the joy of art and creating an environment where everyone feels inspired and supported. So why not gather your friends, break out the easels, and let the art judging begin?

No matter what type of themed adult party you’re looking to host, there are plenty of unconventional ideas that will make your event a hit. From movie nights and mystery dinners to art shows and old-fashioned tea parties, these six unique themes offer something for everyone. Not only will they create an unforgettable experience for the guests, but they’ll also give them an opportunity to show off their creative sides in a fun and supportive environment. So don’t be afraid to think outside the box when it comes time to plan your next themed adult party! With any one of these six ideas, you can rest assured that your gathering will be talked about long after it’s over.

Mathews introduces its newest bow model — the Phase4™. Engineered with new Resistance Phase Damping™ Technology to drastically reduce vibration and built compatible with a completely redesigned line of Bridge-Lock™ Stabilizers, the Phase4 is the stealthiest hunting system to-date.

“For 2024, we focused on building a streamlined hunting system that had the least amount of noise and felt vibration in a fully setup bow,” stated Mark Hayes, design engineering manager. “The result is a complete hunting system that is up to 13% quieter with 37% less vibration.”

NEW Resistance Phase Damping™ Technology

Resistance Phase Damping™ (RPD) stops vibration at the source, resulting in the smoothest shooting archery system Mathews has ever created. This first of its kind innovation tackles excess energy directly in the limbs which significantly deadens and silences post-shot vibration.

“The real value of RPD is maximized when paired with our new Bridge-Lock stabilizers,” says Hayes. “We challenged conventional stabilizer design and ended up with a radically improved bar that is better balanced, absorbs more vibration and allows hunters to fine tune their setup like never before.”

NEW Bridge-Lock™ Stabilizers

Expanding on Mathews exclusive Bridge-Lock Technology, the new Bridge-Lock Stabilizers offer improved balance points and a stiffer connection to your bow for added vibration dampening and enhanced stabilization. InterLink™ Weight Technology makes adding and removing stabilizer weights easier than ever before with a redesigned threadless, stackable weight system that only requires one set screw for quick adjustments. Completed with a quick-disconnect knob allowing adjustability in ½” increments, the Bridge-Lock™ Stabilizers offer a new level of harmonic tuning and customization in a single bar. Available in 8”, 10”, and 12” length options and eight finish options to complete your hunting system.

The new Phase4 is available in 29” or 33” axle-to-axle lengths. The Phase4 29 has a 6” brace height and accommodates draw lengths from 25.5”-30”. The Phase4 33 has a 6.5” brace height and accommodates draw lengths from 27”-31.5”.

The Phase4 is available in eight finish options. You can find more information on the 2024 Phase4 and new accessory line at Mathewsinc.com and experience them today at your local Mathews Retailer.

MSRP

• Phase4 29: $1,299
• Phase4 33: $1,399
• Bridge-Lock Stabilizer (8”): $249.99
• Bridge-Lock Stabilizer (10”): $259.99
• Bridge-Lock Stabilizer (12”): $269.99
• Bridge-Lock Adjustable V-Bar: $199.99

About Mathews Archery

Mathews Archery has been committed to elevating the archery experience for over 31 years. All Mathews bows are designed and built in Sparta, Wisconsin, U.S.A. and distributed through independent retailers around the world. Experience the full line of premier target and hunting bows at mathewsinc.com and take a look at the 2024 new product guide here.