Have you ever seen those unique-looking points extending from the red deer’s antlers? Those elegant and sharp curves are referred to as a brow tine.

But what exactly is a brow tine, and what purpose does it serve?

In this article, we will discuss all there is to know about the brow tine deer. Now, without further ado, let’s get started.

What is a Brow Tine on a Deer?

The brow tine is the first point where the antler branches off from the main beam. It is located near the base of the antlers, just above the deer’s eyes. The brow tine is an essential feature for hunters who are looking to identify and target a specific deer.

It serves as an indicator of a buck’s maturity and overall health.

Antlers are one of the most distinctive features of male deer, and they play a crucial role in many aspects of their lives, from mating rituals to self-defense. Antlers are made of bone, and they are shed and regrown every year.

Deer Antler Terminology – A Quick Overview

Deer antlers are a fascinating and complex feature of male deer. They play an important role in many aspects of the deer’s life, from mating to self-defense. Antlers are made of bone and are shed and regrown every year.

They grow in a branching pattern, with each branch having a specific name and location. Here’s a quick overview of some of the most common antler terminology:

What Age Do Deers Get Brow Tines?

Brow tines typically emerge when a male deer reaches maturity. Brow tines can also appear in some deers as early as four or five months old.

However, there is a considerable variation in the deer population. The difference in growth patterns can be due to genetic factors. But it can also be due to nutrition and environmental conditions.

Here’s a brief data interpretation on brow tines in deers.

Brow Tines in Mature Bucks:

Brow Tines in mature bucks are an interesting aspect of deer anatomy. Brow tines represent the maturity and age of the animal.

As bucks mature, their brow tines tend to grow larger. Hence, making it easy to differentiate from those of their younger counterparts.

Larger & Defined Brow Tines:

As a deer matures and thrives in its environment, its brow tines tend to become more distinct and sizeable.

Hunters can use this information to make informed decisions about which deer to target, based on factors such as the size and age of the animal.

Why Some Deer Grow Brow Tines and Others Don’t

Not all bucks will grow brow tines, and some bucks may have smaller or less defined tines. The size and shape of the tine can also vary between species of deer.

For example, mule deer tend to have more prominent brow tines than white-tailed deer.

Despite these variations, the brow tine remains a valuable feature for hunters and wildlife enthusiasts alike. It serves as a visual indicator of a deer’s age and health, and it adds to the overall beauty and majesty of these magnificent animals.

Scoring Deer: Do You Count the Brow Tines on a Deer?

Deer hunting is a popular activity for many hunters, and for some, scoring the deer they take down is an important part of the experience. Scoring a deer involves measuring and adding up the length of each tine on the deer’s antlers, along with the length and width of the main beam.

While there are several different methods for scoring deer, one question that often arises is whether or not to count the brow tines when tallying up the total score.

In general, the more tines a deer has, the higher its score will be. However, not all tines are created equal, and some may be longer or wider than others, which can also affect the overall score.

When scoring a deer, it’s important to follow the guidelines set forth by the organization or competition in which you are participating.

Conclusion:

The brow tine is an important feature of deer antlers, as it serves as a visual indicator of the animal’s age and health. It can vary between species, with mule deer generally having more prominent brow tines than white-tailed deer.

Understanding the different features of deer antlers can help us better appreciate these magnificent animals and gain a deeper appreciation for wild creatures in general.

Do all Bucks have brow tines?

No, not all bucks have brow tines. While most bucks do have brow tines on their antlers, there is a small percentage of bucks that are genetically programmed to not produce brow tines.

However, it’s important to note that this trait is not necessarily passed along to their offspring, as antler potential is also influenced by the genetic contribution of the does.

Do whitetail deer have brow tines?

Yes, whitetail deer do have brow tines on their antlers. In fact, a single brow tine, also known as an “eye guard,” is commonly present on each antler, although it is not always guaranteed.

In addition to the brow tine, a typical mature rack for a whitetail deer will have two to four other tines per antler, along with the beam tip, resulting in a total of 4 to 6 points on each side.

Will a deer without brow tines ever grow them?

It is unlikely that a deer without brow tines will ever grow them, particularly if it is genetically programmed to not produce them. In the case of whitetail bucks, research has shown that if a buck has spiked as his first set of antlers, he has a 90 percent chance of developing into a buck with missing brow tines later in life.

How do you measure brow tines on a deer?

To measure brow tines on a deer, start by identifying the G-1 tine, also known as the brow tine, on each antler. Measure the length of the brow tine from the front to the tip of the tine.

If the tine splits into multiple branches, measure the length of the dominant branch. The other end of the split is considered an abnormal point and should be counted as a separate point.

Regardless of the number of points on the antlers, it is important to take four circumference measurements per side.

Do brow tines count?

Whether brow tines count towards the total point score of a deer depends on the specific scoring system being used.

In some scoring systems, such as the Boone and Crockett Club scoring system for mule deer, the brow tine or eye guard is not counted when determining the total number of points on the antlers.

This is because traditionally, mule deer have been counted using one side only, and a typical mule deer has four points on one side with brow tines. However, in other scoring systems, such as for whitetail deer, all the points on the antlers are typically counted, including the brow tines.

What makes a drop tine on a deer?

A drop tine on a deer is a tine on the antlers that grows downward instead of upward or outward. In most cases, drop tines are caused by genetic coding, meaning they are a natural variation in the buck’s genes.

While prior injuries can cause a buck to grow weird antlers, true drop tines are mostly the result of a whitetail buck’s genetics.

However, it’s important to note that not all deer will necessarily develop a drop tine, even if they have the genetic potential to do so. Other factors, such as age, nutrition, and overall health, can also influence antler growth and the development of drop tines.

What are G tines on a buck?

G tines are a way of referring to the tines or points on a buck’s antlers. Specifically, the brow tines are commonly referred to as G1 tines, and the next tine on the antler is referred to as the G2, followed by the G3, and so on.

The length of the G2 and G3 tines on a whitetail deer are often the most significant in terms of scoring, although this can vary depending on the specific antler configuration. When scoring a buck’s antlers, each tine or point is measured and added to the total score.

We’re still dreaming of the day when suppressor ownership is legal in all 50 states. Thankfully, great progress has been made in recent years and it is now legal to own a suppressor in 42 of the 50 states.

Making suppressed hunting legal in states where it is legal to own a suppressor has been equally taxing, but also very rewarding. To date, it’s legal to hunt with a suppressor in 41 states.

The most obvious benefit of hunting suppressed is safety, particularly when it comes to protecting your hearing. Noise-induced hearing loss is the most common affliction for hunters. A lot of this comes from hunters forgoing hearing protection year after year for their entire hunting career so that they can hear their surroundings. After all, hearing nature around you is one of the best parts of hunting.

A secondary benefit is that it protects the hearing of your hunting companions. There’s nothing better than sharing an elk hunt with your friends or family, but it can easily be tainted by the sound of an unsuppressed gunshot. Maybe it won’t bother them right away, but over time, it will.

Animals like varmints or predators will go into hiding when they hear a gunshot, so a suppressor is almost a necessity in these instances. Some game animals like deer or elk may completely avoid an area if they are alerted to gunshots. We have seen this firsthand with small game such as ground squirrels that go into hiding for hours after the sound of the first shot and on other occasions not changing a thing because we were shooting suppressed.

Along with not disturbing the game in a given hunting area, suppressors also let you avoid disturbing local residents. Remember, not all hunting is done in the vast majesty of elk country. It may be small in the grand scheme of things, but a decrease in noise complaints is a good thing for everyone.

In this guide, we’re going to dig into all things hunting with a suppressor, including why you need to have one on your next elk hunt.

WHY HUNT WITH A SUPPRESSOR?

As we mentioned, in addition to protecting your hearing, a suppressed firearm allows you to use your unencumbered ears to listen for elk bugling, communicate with fellow hunters, and avoid alerting predators. Quite simply, it allows you to be fully aware of your surroundings from a hearing perspective.

In 2015, Montana Governor Steve Bullock of Montana said it best in a letter to the Montana Speaker of the House, stating: “Suppressors mitigate the sound of a shot, but do not silence it. The use of suppressors for hunting, when hunters cannot wear ear protection because they need to be aware of their surroundings, can help protect against hearing loss. This is especially true for our younger hunters, even those who are not actually hunting but are accompanying their parents in the field.”

Hearing protection in the form of muffs or plugs is as effective but only while being worn. In the field, it is important to be aware of your surroundings, especially in bear, mountain lion, or rattlesnake country. The hunter can easily become the hunted without the situational awareness that hunting with a suppressed firearm offers.

BENEFITS OF HUNTING SUPPRESSED

In summary, suppressed hunting offers a number of benefits that you may have not considered. Here’s a list of those benefits:

• Protect your hearing
• Protect the hearing of others
• Maintain awareness of your surroundings
• Enjoy sounds of nature, like elk bugling
• Avoid disturbing other game
• Reduce noise complaints
• Reduce recoil

IS IT LEGAL TO HUNT WITH A SUPPRESSOR?

Suppressors are legal to own in 42 states. Only one of those 42 doesn’t allow hunting with a suppressor, and that’s Connecticut. So, if you’re a suppressor owner and a hunter in Connecticut, get in touch with your state legislators and let them know it’s time to join the other 41 suppressor legal states that also allow hunting. Hunters’ voices in the other states made the difference in the other states and they can make the difference in Connecticut, too.

WHAT CAN I HUNT WITH A SUPPRESSOR?

In terms of what you can hunt with a suppressor, the sky is virtually the limit so long as you’re in one of the 41 states where suppressed hunting is legal.

As with all types of hunting – suppressor or otherwise – it’s still a good idea to check with your state and local game laws every year to make sure that things haven’t changed.

ELK HUNTING

Part of the thrill of elk hunting is the challenge. These majestic animals can give even the best and most experienced elk hunter a run for their money season after season. Therefore, any extra leg up you can get on them is welcomed when you’re out on the hunt.

Using a suppressor will keep your sound signature down so that you don’t disturb the rest of the herd when making your shot. This is especially important if, for some unfortunate reason or another, you miss your first shot. The less noise your rifle makes, the better chance you’ll have of getting off a second shot.

Since most elk hunting involves carrying all of your gear with you on the hunt, many hunters try to pack as simple and light as possible. This means that hearing protection often gets left behind. It’s not that a pair of electronic muffs are heavy; it’s simply that they’re one more piece of equipment to carry around. With a suppressor on the end of your barrel, you can protect your hearing without having to keep track of an extra piece of equipment.

DEER HUNTING

Deer hunting is greatly enhanced when using your suppressor. This is because most rifle suppressors offer a reduction in recoil. You may not need a .300 Winchester Magnum for a whitetail deer on the east coast at 50 yards but in the western states, but mule deer are larger and often taken at greater distances. Therefore, a bigger caliber may be more beneficial. The same holds true for other game animals such bighorn sheep and caribou.

Even if you’re using a rifle with lighter recoil for whitetail deer and don’t need the recoil reduction, it’s still nice to have the reduced sound signature to protect your ears.

COYOTE HUNTING

Whether you consider them to be varmints or predators, coyotes are some of the most intelligent and cagey animals to hunt. They recognize gunshots for what they are and even the youngest or most naïve of these creatures will keep a smart distance in spite of your best predator calls once they hear one. To sum it up, like their cartoon namesake, they are wily.

FERAL HOG HUNTING

Another animal with excellent hearing and one that knows the sound of gunshots for what they are is the feral hog. These animals have bred to out of control numbers in the wild and are a pestilence when it comes to agricultural, property, and other forms of damage. Suppressed hunting rifles are a necessity when taking out large numbers of them to protect crops and other things that they like to destroy.

VARMINT HUNTING

Prairie dog and ground squirrel hunters often benefit the most from the use of a silenced hunting rifle while varmint hunting. Animals such as these are well aware of what gunfire means and a large group will retreat to their burrows until they no longer hear gunfire.

A suppressed hunting rifle will allow you to maximize your efforts when you need to take them out in a small amount of time. It will allow you to take shots at them for hours on end, if that’s your intent.

BEST SUPPRESSORS FOR HUNTING

There are a lot of suppressors designed with hunting in mind that all share the same characteristics. You want it to be quiet, but also lightweight. Versatility and the ability to share it among different host guns is always a plus. We took a quick overview of a few different centerfire suppressors.

If you want a suppressor that was purpose-built with hunting in mind, then the BANISH Backcountry is one you should give serious consideration. It only weighs 7.8 oz and is only 5.5” in overall length. It’s also rated for use all the way up to .300 Remington Ultra Mag (RUM), so no matter what your choice for elk hunting, the BANISH Backcountry can handle it. The goal is to pack in ounces and pack out pounds, and the Backcountry will help you do just that.

One of the most versatile suppressors in the world is the BANISH 30. A fully user-serviceable can, it works with all of your rifle calibers from .17 HMR to .300 Weatherby. Testing shows that BANISH 30 reduces the report of a .308 Winchester by as much as 34 decibels. It is made from a strong, titanium alloy for unmatched durability at an extremely light weight.

If you are looking for a suppressor that can handle pistol calibers such as .45 ACP as well as large rifle calibers such as .45-70 Government, give the BANISH 46 a look. Made of titanium and Inconel, the BANISH 46 provides the ultimate combination of durability and weight reduction. The BANISH 46 weighs only 16.3 oz in the short configuration of 7.9”, and 20.4 oz in its 10” configuration.

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

As beneficial as suppressors are to the hunter, one would think that they would be easier to come by. Here are some frequently asked questions that may help you understand the buying process as well as their capabilities.

HOW QUIET ARE THEY, REALLY?

Actually measuring sound reduction with a suppressor can be tricky. We have all seen the various decibel rating charts, but they only tell a part of the story. The actual level of sound reduction and the sound meter, itself, can be affected by humidity, barometric pressure, altitude, and echo.

In general, hunting with a suppressor can lessen the sound of most gunshots by anywhere from 25 to 35 decibels, depending on the silencer and caliber in question. This is below the threshold for most hearing protection commonly worn in or over the ears. If you hunt with dogs, it protects their hearing as well.

The other item of note here is that the vast majority of elk hunting rifles (bolt-action, lever-action, pump-action, single-shot) make the best suppressor hosts because the sealed action means there is no gas leakage. A silenced elk hunting rifle will truly live up to its name in this regard.

HOW DO I BUY A SILENCER WITH SILENCER CENTRAL?

Silencer Central takes the formalities out of the paperwork with our digital process. You select the right suppressor for your firearm and let our expert compliance staff handle the paperwork which is emailed to you to digitally sign. With the fingerprint kit, taking your prints and passport-style photo can be accomplished from the privacy of your own home. To make it even easier, we offer a 4-month, eZ-Pay option so you can pay for your silencer in installments. Our free NFA Gun Trust (a $249 value) is set up for you to better protect the ownership of what is really a lifetime investment. Once approved, you receive notification via email and text message, and we ship the silencer directly to your doorstep.

Additionally, we realize that not all hunting rifles ship from the factory with threaded barrels to attach to your silencer. Silencer Central’s in-house machine shop can thread your rifle for you and ship the barrel straight back to your house.

In addition to stocking popular brands, we also offer BANISH multi-caliber suppressors, a 100% titanium and user-serviceable line exclusively built to our demanding specifications.

SHOULD I PURCHASE A SILENCER USING AN NFA GUN TRUST?

At one time, it seemed like purchasing a suppressor by means of using an NFA Trust was the only way to go. This was mainly to avoid wait times from local law enforcement, obtaining fingerprints, photos and, in some extreme cases, chief local law enforcement figures would flat out refuse to sign any NFA paperwork. Much of this is no longer an issue due to an ATF ruling a few years ago that stated the CLEO only needed to be notified of silencer purchases.

However, an NFA gun trust is not a bad thing to have for estate planning purposes, particularly if firearms and silencers are involved.

HOW LONG ARE WAIT TIMES?

Perhaps the biggest drawback to buying a suppressor is the long wait time to go through the FBI background check. The background check is not long in and of itself, but the time it takes for the application to complete the entire ATF approval process is definitely longer.

At times, trusts can be quicker than individuals but at other times this dynamic can change. E-forms filed online are quicker than paper forms filed by mail. Over the years, we have seen approval times as short as 9 days and as long as 27 months. As of this writing, suppressor approval wait times are running about 270 days.

DO SUPPRESSORS AFFECT PERFORMANCE OR ACCURACY?

This is a bit of a mixed bag. In general, suppressors improve performance and accuracy. The right suppressor will lessen felt recoil and eliminate noise flinch, making your silenced hunting rifle more accurate.

However, attaching a suppressor will often change the rifle’s Point of Impact (POI). Often this shift in POI is minimal and can be corrected by adjusting the optic or iron sights. The important thing to remember is that if you sight your rifle in without a suppressor, you will need to re-zero with the suppressor attached.

Some suppressors will need this every time you reattach if they are the QD (Quick Detach) type that attaches to a flash suppressor or muzzle brake. If you are going the direct thread or thread over muzzle brake (TOMB) route, the shift will be negligible unless you are shooting at extremely long ranges ( greater than 1,000 yards).

WHY IS THERE A $200 TAX STAMP?

In 1934, due to concerns about high-profile bank robberies and interstate crime sprees from Depression-era criminals, Congress passed the National Firearms Act. This was the first major piece of gun control legislation passed in the United States.

Although the original intent was to outlaw specific types of firearms, including all handguns, legislators decided to tax them out of circulation by imposing a $200 transfer tax.

The reason why the NFA tax is $200 is because that was the retail price of a Thompson submachine gun in 1934. It was intended to be a 100% excise tax on a firearm that caught the public’s imagination. When adjusted for inflation, that tax today would be $4,500. This is a reason why silencer development languished for so many years until the 21st century.

Products affected by this tax were machine guns, short-barreled rifles (SBR), short-barreled shotguns (SBS), and, of course, suppressors. Firearms that were not quite short-barreled long arms and those that were disguised to not look like a firearm were classified as Any Other Weapon (AOW) and subject to a $3 tax.

The NFA has undergone some minor changes over the past nine decades, including raising the AOW tax from $3 to $5 and changing the SBR length from 18” to 16”. There have been a few attempts by lawmakers to deregulate silencers and remove them from the purview of the NFA, but as of this writing, there is still a $200 tax on this safety device.

READY FOR YOUR FIRST SUPPRESSED ELK HUNT?

Hopefully, by now you have a better understanding of what to look for in a suppressor for hunting. Weight and length are a factor especially if you must walk a few miles on your first suppressed hunt. You also want one that will reduce sound to a comfortable level and maybe even help in the recoil department.

Armed with the knowledge laid out here we hope we can get you ready for that first suppressed hunt. A suppressor is as important to a hunter as a quality firearm, skinning knife, or optic.

The key to having a great hunt is to do your research, hire experts and guides. Let Silencer Central be your suppressor “hunting guide” and redefine the way you buy a silencer. We deliver silencers the simple way. You select your silencer; we manage your paperwork, and your silencer is shipped directly to your doorstep. It’s the service that’s unheard of.

Call our silencer specialists at 888-781-8778 to get started on your next suppressor purchase or visit SilencerCentral.com to buy online.

By Jason Vincent

The world is full of ugly rifles…and so is my gun safe.

The truth is, I like them. I appreciate the durability of synthetics, I value a weather resistant stainless barrel and, in the field, the practicality in the shape of a more tactical stock opens up more shooting positions.

But these are not my favorite rifles.

My favorites all have classic lines, wood stocks, and blued barrels. I’m willing to forgive them a little if they’re not surgically accurate.

The Winchester Model 70 has always been my favorite sporting rifle and I’ve been chasing deals on the pre-1964 versions for a long time now. These guns were designed right, built right, and they almost always offered surprising accuracy.

And then Winchester bastardized them in 1964 to cut costs and compete with Remington’s cheaper and less refined push-feed Model 700 -which they were having huge success with.

Model 70 purists – guys like my grandad – vomited as they lost their reliable control round feed actions and watched Winchester’s overall quality take a nose-dive. But the side effects only lasted a short 28 years before Winchester listened to their customers and in 1992, the company started producing control round feed actions again.

Today, the Winchester Model 70 may be the best rifle the company has ever made. They beat the pants off anything Remington has ever produced, and they’ve turned many of us into believers in their rifles again.

I own several of these newer guns.

Before our last trip to Africa, I sent my current catalog model .30-06 M70 Supergrade off to a company that manufactures and installs iron sights. I like hunting with irons when I can get away with it and the lack of them on most of the new M70’s bothers me.

When I got back the rifle back, the crew that did the work clearly beat my Supergrade up in the shop. There were scratches in the bluing and even a small gouge on the barrel. Mind you, these rifles are designed to be head turners, so I wasn’t thrilled with the way they treated it, but I don’t own safe queens and I knew I’d be putting new scars on it soon.

I’d shot this beauty before having the sights installed and knew it to be an accurate rig, but while it was off being thrown around the sight installer’s workshop, Unknown Munitions sent me some 180gr Barnes loads for our safari. When the rifle came back, I mounted a Leupold VX-3HD 2.5-8×36 in Talley quick-release rings and hit the range.

I’d never tried 180’s in this gun and with a max power of 8x in the optic I had to look through my spotting scope to see my first 3-shot group.

I knew at first glance that the cluster had to be ½” or less. I let things cool for a few minutes then shot again. Slightly larger group but still less than the ¾” mark. I zeroed the scope and dead centered the bullseye. I fired one more round to confirm zero and then packed everything up.

I went back to the office and used the velocity info from the doppler I set up on the shooting bench to update my Sig Kilo 2400ABS rangefinder with the data that would allow me to stretch the Supergrade out in the field. Since first using this system a few years ago, I haven’t taken a trip without it.

Fast forward to the shooting range in safari camp. We all uncased our rigs to check zero before hunting. I center-punched the target with two rounds and put the rifle away. Almost everyone commented on how good looking the rifle was and I think I was the only hunter in camp that didn’t need to make scope adjustments on the bench.

Over the next two weeks, the Winchester took a beating in the Landcruiser between the shots that downed game from 60 yards to 332 yards. The last round I fired was on a smaller animal at 470 yards. The blesbok died with a single round to the heart while my buddies drank beer and watched.

Several people have tried to buy this rifle from me since.

It will never be sold.

Summary:

The current Winchester M70’s are rifles to own. People bitch about the newest models being made in Europe these days, but I don’t want to hear about it. My Portuguese models are as good or better than anything Winchester has ever put their name on. If I have one gripe, it’s the lack of iron sights on all but the Safari Express models. Winchester really should make a series of the rifle in .270 and .30-06 to mimic the classic pre-64 design. They’d sell the hell out of them.

Pros:

Beautiful. Accurate. Control round feed for ultimate reliability.

Cons:

They need iron sights for us purists.

This article was originally published in Issue 1 of our magazine.

Using the right tool for the right job makes all the difference. Sure, you can get away with using a flathead screwdriver on a Phillips screw, but every time you do so, you run the risk of stripping the screw. It’s much better to use the correct driver for the proper fit to avoid damage to the screw and the driver. Similarly, using the right knot can be a huge factor in the success of accomplishing a job, easily and safely.

Unless knots factor into your daily grind like bungee jump operator or first mate of the S.S. Minnow, the majority of people may only use one or two knots on a daily basis — or if you have Velcro on your shoes, maybe even none at all. Whether or not you have ever been taught what sort of knot is used for what, or if you have, it’s probably been a long time since you earned your merit badge in that endeavor. Let’s take a look at a few useful knots that can get you out of a pinch or simply help you get things done quicker.

There are countless knots out there as well as multiple variations for many of them. Each knot was created for a specific application. Realistically, unless it’s part of your everyday life, it’s difficult to remember how many of these knots are tied. We’ve picked out three knots that are strong and versatile that can be used in just about any situation.

The Bowline

The Bowline forms a secure, non-sliding loop. When a load is placed on the Bowline, it will not slip or jam, but when the line is relaxed, the knot can be easily untied. The loop may pass around or through an object such as a railing, pole, tree, or a fence, during the making of the knot. When no longer being used, the knot comes undone relatively easily, even after being used under great load. For this reason, this knot is not recommended for uses such as climbing or rappelling.

Uses

• Hoist or lower objects from an elevated position
• The loop can be tied around just about anything you need to pull or drag
• Use as an anchor point when tying down cargo. When using it in this manner, finish off tying the cargo with the Trucker’s Hitch.
• Tying off a boat to prevent drifting

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Trucker’s Hitch

Commonly used by truckers, the Trucker’s Hitch is used to tie down loads securely and with great tension. The loop formed while tying this knot acts as a pulley that tightens up slack to keep even heavy loads in place. The Trucker’s Hitch is actually a system of several knots used together to great effect.

Uses

• Cinch down heavy loads on roof racks, car roofs, and truck beds
• Securely tie down tarps

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Double Fisherman’s

This knot is used to tie two ropes of similar width and strength together. If you don’t have a single rope long enough to get the job done, use this technique to tie two ropes together. What you’re essentially doing with this knot is tying two knots, one on each rope. When pulled toward each other, the two knots come together, tighten, and form a secure method of combining two ropes.

Uses

• Joining two ends of shorter ropes to make a longer one
• Joining two ends of the same rope to make a secure circle or loop

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Rope Care

It’s always important to check your ropes for kinks, debris, and frays. Keep your rope away from water if possible, unless it is designed for it. Damaged and weakened rope that is under a lot of tension can break and cause serious injury or death.

Tidbit

The origin of knots has been lost to time, but what we do know is that they have been in use for thousands of years by many ancient civilizations. This human knowhow now lives on the surface of the planet Mars. NASA’s Mars Rover Curiosity features cables that are bundled together with hand-tied knots. The knots keep the cables bundled without wearing them out like cable ties would.

Do you want to be a better defensive shooter?

Of course, you do! So…can you attend a defensive firearms course across the country…basically once a month?

If you can, great! But if you can’t…welcome to the club.

So what do you do in between classes? Drills!

Defensive firearm drills are a great way to work on new skills and keep the ones you have sharp.

We’ve put together a few defensive firearms drills to keep your skills sharp & build a solid base in defensive firearms use, all from the comfort of your local range.

Why These Drills?

There are lots of great drills out there to improve your shooting ability. The ones I’ve chosen here were done for a purpose.

First, they are great drills to master.

Second, they can be done with minimal supplies.

Third, they can most likely be done or modified to be done in accordance with your range’s rules.

1. Malfunction Clearing

This drill is all about learning to get your gun back into the fight when it goes down with a malfunction. This specific drill is designed to teach shooters how to defeat a malfunction.

All standard PPE is required.

Start the drill in the ready position, as if you had just fired and are going to fire again.

If you are using a timer, wait for it to sound off. When it sounds, the drill begins.

If you aren’t using a timer for this drill, just start when ready.

Pistol

Use an empty brass case or a Snap Cap to simulate a complication.

With a pistol, remove the magazine — retain it or drop it (if you’re carrying a spare mag).

Pull the action to the rear several times as you tilt the weapon ejection port down. Once the malfunction is cleared, reload the weapon and fire.

Firing a shot on target completes the drill.

Want to see it in action? Check out the Brownells’ Daily Defense video below.

Rifle

Each rifle functions slightly differently, but this drill assumes you are using a modern rifle. If not, adapt the drill the best you can.

Starting in the firing position, drop the magazine with the firing hand as the nonfiring hand locks the bolt to the rear.

With the bolt to the rear, the jam should clear; if it does not, clear the brass with your hand.

Reinsert the magazine and fire a single shot, and the drill is over.

Shotgun

This drill is for shotguns with tubular magazines — revert to the rifle drill for box mags.

With a pump shotgun pull the pump fully to the rear. If necessary, reach in and remove the malfunction.

With an automatic, lock the bolt back to the rear and clear the malfunction with your hands.

Put another round in the chamber and fire a round.

Make It Harder — Randomly load an empty case into the magazine and let the malfunction surprise you.

2. Failure to Stop a.k.a Mozambique

This drill involves two shots to the chest and one to the head, and it’s the same drill as any weapon platform.

The Failure to Stop Drill, or Mozambique, is mostly useful with a rifle or pistol.

A failure to stop drill with a shotgun tends to be unnecessary, but can be done.

Using a silhouette target with distinguished chest and head areas, set your target up anywhere from 7 to 10 yards with a handgun and 15 to 25 yards with a rifle or shotgun.

If range rules allow, start with the handgun holstered or long gun at the low ready.

On the go signal, fire two rounds into the chest of the target and one round to the head.

Then keep the weapon aimed at the target to ensure it’s down.

This drill stresses shot placement into critical areas of an opponent and also teaches shot transition drills on the same target.

Shot placement is the most critical factor in ending a defensive encounter, more so than any kind of supposed knockdown power.

Make it Harder – Place a 3×5 index card on the chest of the target and a playing card on the head of the target. Shots will only count if they hit the index or playing card. This challenges the shooter’s shot placement skills even more.

Read more about the Mozambique and its origins in our article here!

3. Box Drill

The Box Drill is almost identical to the FSD drill; however, it’s shot on two targets.

Like the FSD, you can use any weapon’s platform to complete this drill…as long as it can hold six rounds.

I place the targets about a yard apart because it’s faster to engage with your dominant hand.

Engage the first target with two to the chest, transition to the second target, and fire two to the chest.

On the second target, take your headshot, then transition and finish the drill with a final headshot on the first target.

This drill stresses shot placement and multiple target engagement.

It forces you to think under stress and focus on kicking ass in a proactive way.

Make it Harder – You can make it a little harder by placing the targets further apart if possible. If not, mix in a reload in between shots. Make it interesting by loading three rounds per magazine and reloading right in the middle of the drill.

4. El Presidente

The El Presidente was designed by the King of Combat handgun shooting, Jeff Cooper. This drill challenges a pistol shooter’s ability to draw, engage, transition targets, reload, and then re-engage multiple targets again.

The drill should be completed in 10 seconds — five if you’re an advanced shooter.

You’ll need three man-sized targets set 1 meter apart, with the targets staged 10 meters from you.

Start with a holstered handgun and a spare mag carried as you please — six rounds in each mag.

You’ll need a timer to really gauge your ability, but if running it just for fun, don’t worry about it.

Begin with your back to the targets, and hands in the air, in the false surrender position.

On the go signal, turn, draw and shoot each target twice. Then reload, and shoot each target two more times.

The drill is quite challenging and does have a lot of moving parts. As such, finding a range that will accommodate it might be tough.

We offer an in-depth dive into El Presidente here.

5. 1 to 5 Drill

Designed by Kyle Lamb, the 1 to 5 Drill is perfect for any modern defensive rifle.

Kyle Lamb was a Sergeant Major in the U.S. Army, a Delta Force Operator, and participated in numerous deployments, including the Black Hawk Down incident. He’s the lead instructor at Viking Tactics and the subject of a serious man-crush on my part.

Lamb designed the drill to stress shooting until the target is down. Instead of focusing on the double-tap and transition, you’ll place a multitude of rounds on multiple targets.

You’ll need three man-size silhouettes set about a yard apart. The targets are only 5 yards from you.

Load one magazine with 15 rounds, insert it and make ready with your rifle.

Start in the low-ready position with your rifle. On the signal, put one shot on the left-most target, two shots into the center target, and three shots into the rightmost target.

Next, you shoot four shots on the center target and finish with five shots on the left target.

You should be able to do this in about five seconds. Anything less means you are doing pretty dang good.

6. Shotgun Casino Drill

I love my shotguns, and there is a drought of shotgun-specific drills.

However, I did see John at Active Self Protection post something called the Shotgun Casino Drill, which is new to me.

Shotguns are low-capacity weapons that require you to learn to reload to run one properly. This drill stresses speed combined with reloads and makes the shooter think.

You’ll need four targets, a pump or semi-auto shotgun, ten rounds of ammo, and a means to carry spare ammo on the gun or body. I prefer side saddles, but it’s up to you.

A shot timer is also required, with the par time set to 30 seconds. All four targets should be set up in a row, placed five yards from the shooter. Load the gun with four rounds.

Your goal is to fire one round into target one, two rounds into target two, three rounds into target three, and four rounds into target four. That’s ten rounds, but you start with only four in the gun.

How you achieve the goal and the method by which you reload is up to you. You can start loading extra rounds as soon as the timer goes off if you choose, reload as needed, or run port reloads after the first four.

It doesn’t matter as long as you get the appropriate amount of rounds into the appropriate targets within 30 seconds.

This drill stresses your recoil mitigation, target transitions, reloading skills, and ability to think under pressure. It’s a fair bit of fun, and you’ll likely have no problems passing.

If you’re faster than the clock, you can always adjust the par time as necessary to make you move faster.

7. Shooting and Moving Multidirection Live Fire Drill

Mike Seeklander is the real deal. He’s a pro shooter, Marine, and an all-around awesome guy.

He teaches classes, has written numerous books, and has contributed to the firearms world in a very positive way. One of his creations is the Shooting and Moving Multidirection Live Fire Drill.

This rifle drill incorporates movement in nearly every possible direction and stresses shooting on the move and proper footwork.

The drill requires a rifle, at least ten rounds, and two obstacles.

Obstacles can be poles, barrels, or anything else suitable. They should be in line with each other and spaced about five feet apart. The target should be set fifteen yards down range.

Start by standing in between the two barrels and then begin walking in a figure 8 around the two obstacles. While walking, have your rifle at the ready and engage the target as you move around the barrels.

This forces you to focus on proper footwork, movement, and accuracy. Use a relatively small target to demand excellent accuracy. Using an IPSC target and focusing only on the A-Zone is a great option.

Make sure you are using a fighter’s style of movement. Avoid crossing your ankles, and move one leg at a time without dragging your feet.

There is not necessarily a par time for this drill; the focus is on moving and shooting.

Due to the movement required, it is wise to practice without live ammo a few times. I run this drill with my Mantis Blackbeard system fairly frequently and get a lot of practice even without live ammo.

8. Sage Dynamics Eleanor

Aaron Cowan at Sage Dynamics was a driving force in the widespread acceptance of optics on duty and defensive handguns.

He’s a soldier and law enforcement officer that now spends his time educating the masses on firearms.

Today we are talking about a drill he devised specifically for handguns and rifles with red dots, although it’s also applied to rifles.

The drill is called the Eleanor and requires you to be both fast and accurate at very close range. It requires a specific target, which is free to print from the Sage Dynamics website.

The idea behind the drill is to practice rapid close-range shooting with excellent accuracy while also being aware of the height over bore issues with a red dot. Depending on your platform, the drill may change slightly.

With a rifle, you fire at five yards from the low ready. With a handgun, you fire from three yards from a holster. For both styles, you’ll need a magazine loaded with four rounds, a shot timer, and the Eleanor target.

At the beep, you’ll shoot the dot in the top of the target with a single round, then transition to the reduced size A zone (aka the square) and fire three rounds into it. Par time is 2.5 seconds to land those four shots.

This drill can be quite a challenge. I’m not ashamed to say I failed it several times and only barely passed when I eliminated concealment as part of the drill.

It’s fast and requires you to remember that height over bore issue and land those shots with a good degree of accuracy.

9. Shoot Two – Load Two

Even in the most kitted-up combat shotguns, you are likely only getting nine rounds or less. So, it’s essential for any shotgunner to know how to reload their weapon.

The S&L drill helps shooters master how to load a shotgun in the middle of using it.

A shotgun’s tubular magazine is an advantage since you can constantly load the gun as you shoot. Being a speedy reloader is the key to mastery.

Place any target downrange, and start 10 yards from it. I prefer to use clay pigeons set on the berm for shotgun training. Shotguns rip targets apart, so paper targets are kind of not needed. Clay pigeons explode and are fun to shoot.

You’ll need at least five shotgun rounds — Three in the tube and two secured outside of the shotgun to load the gun.

Shoot two rounds, reload two shells.

You want to reload with your non-dominant hand and keep the shotgun pointed at the targets.

The key to this drill is repetition. The faster you get, the better.

A way to measure your progress is by keeping time. Shoot two, reload two and observe your time.

Accessories to Maximize Training

I’ve mentioned a few accessories above, and I want to go ahead and double down on just how handy they are.

These tools will make it a lot easier to train and ensure you get the most out of your training.

Shot Timer

A shot timer is an invaluable tool for tracking your skills and ability to shoot.

Sure, a target makes it possible to see how accurate you are, but a shot timer shows how fast you are. You can record the data and track your progress.

A shot timer also adds stress to your shooting, making you work to overcome that stress.

If you can’t afford a shot timer, there are several apps that function decent enough. They aren’t perfect, but they’re better than nothing.

See our round-up of the Best Shot Timers!

Good Targets

While just about any target can work, I prefer targets that resemble an actual opponent. This makes it easy to determine how I’d deal with a real defensive situation.

For a round-up of our faves, see the Best Targets & Stands.

Snap Caps

Snap Caps are invaluable training aids in general — be it dry fire, basic firearm safety, or inducing malfunctions. These rounds are quite distinct from actual rounds but are built perfectly to the spec of a real cartridge. Snap Caps are cheap, easy to find, and are made for nearly any caliber imaginable.

Our faves are below:

• A-Zoom 12 Gauge Snap Caps
• 9mm Luger Snap Caps
• .223 Remington Snap Caps

But we also have an entire article dedicated to the Best Snap Caps for you to look at.

Final Thoughts

When it comes to training, remember that success is not measured overnight. You tend to get better in increments. Be patient and keep training.

For more on basic drills to do at the range, check out the Brownells’ Daily Defense videos below.

Or, for some basic rifle mounting exercises, check out this other video from Brownells.

Or check out the TC Drill below.

Got drills of your own…or any of your favorites we’ve missed? Let us know in the comments below. And if you’re looking to save some money on ammo, check out the Best Low-Round Count Drills and our guide on Dryfire Training.

This is a dynamic everyday carry guide curated by all of our authors for preppers both new and experienced. It is constantly being updated with up-to-date and accurate information, so please check back frequently for updates.

Every day carry encompasses all the items you carry on your person every day. It is less of a kit and more of a daily loadout. EDC (Everyday Carry) is popular far beyond prepping and survival- many people try to optimize what they carry with them for every single day of their lives. It can include pouches, multi-tools, and CCW or just be your keys and wallet.

EDC also includes the clothes you choose to wear. Versatility, weight, size, and functionality are all important for EDC gear.

Contents (Jump to a Section)

Everyday Carry Essentials

The everyday carry essentials with our recommended gear for each area. Outfitting yourself in most of these will give you the resources to tackle emergencies, disasters, or just every day life without notice.

Carried EDC Essentials

• Keys: Attach to your keychain tools.
• Wallet: Magpul DAKA Essential – One that is functional, durable, and either versatile or low-profile depending on your EDC approach. (See why the DAKA beats the others in our wallet review roundup)
• ID: Quickly prove your identity.
• Cash Stash: Don’t keep all your cash in one spot. Find out more about EDC cash stashes.
• EDC Multitool: Gerber Dime – Make yourself endlessly useful even when there aren’t disasters! (See why this is our top EDC multitool)
• Folding Knife: OKC Rat 1 – The quintessential survival folding knife. (See why this is the best value in survival folding knives)
• Cell Phone: A smartphone loaded with survival apps.
• Cell Phone Charger: Paired with your phone above.
• Steel Water Bottle: Nalgene Stainless 38oz (See why this is the best survival water bottle)
• Lighter: Ronson Jetlite (See why this is our favorite lighter)
• EDC Flashlight: Olight i3T EOS Flashlight (See why this is the best EDC Flashlight)
• Rainproof Pen: Rite in the Rain EDC Pen – take notes in any conditions (see why this is the best survival pen)
• Rainproof Paper: Rite in the Rain Notebook
• Mini First Aid Kit: A small, portable First Aid Kit.
• Prescription Medication: Store your prescription medicine in a water and air-tight portable container.
• Protein Bars: Clif Bars or your favorite protein/energy bar.
• Feminine Hygiene Supplies: Keep supplies nearby.

Worn EDC Essentials

• Work Gloves: Mechanix FastFit Covert Gloves (See why these are the best-reviewed survival gloves)
• Socks: Darn Tough Light Hiker (See why these are the best survival socks)
• Shirt: Carhartt Midweight Crew (See why this is the best survival shirt)
• Underwear: Some clean ones.
• Pants: TRU-SPEC Tactical Pants (See why these are our best budget pants)
• Ball Cap: Condor Tactical Cap (See why this is the best survival ball cap)
• Bandana: Colter Co. Reflective Bandana (See why this is the best survival bandana)
• Boots/Shoes: Sturdy hiking shoes or boots.

Suggested Additions for Your EDC Loadout

This gear may not be essential by definition, but adding any of these to your EDC will improve your loadout’s versatility for even more situations.

• EDC Backpack: A bag will allow you to carry much more equipment and gear wherever you go.
• Belt: 5.11 TDU Belt – You may be wearing one anyway, but adding a belt to your outfit can be useful for emergencies. (See why this one is the best survival belt).
• Jacket: 5.11 Bristol Parka – Lightweight but extremely versatile for a wide range of conditions (See why we recommend this in our survival jacket review).
• Poncho: Arcturus Rain Poncho – Staying dry is important during an emergency. (See why this is the best survival poncho)
• Sunglasses: Whether driving or just outside, sunglasses come in handy.
• Survival Mirror: UST Micro Mirror (see why this survival mirror is the best EDC option)
• Power Bank: Portable battery packs have come way down in cost and are very versatile.
• Whistle: SOL Slim Rescue Howler – Whistles make getting attention easy (see why this whistle is the best in a close race).
• Concealed Carry Handgun: Your preferred CCW that you are trained on (see ours here).
• CCW Holster: Alien Gear Concealed Carry Holsters – Get a holster in the profile you want from the best brand.
• Ammunition: PSA Ammo Deals – Get ammo for your CCW at huge discounts.
• Pepper Spray: Sabre 3-in-1 Pepper Spray – A great non-lethal weapon for personal protection. (See how this tested as the best pepper spray)
• Purification Tablets: A few Aquatabs (see why these are our favorite purification tablets for EDC)
• Water Filter: Sawyer Mini Water Filtration System (see why the Mini is the best-reviewed water filter)
• Water: If using an EDC Backpack, keep your steel water bottle full.
• Ration Bars: Millennium Bars (see why this is the best survival food bar)
• Camp Utensils: Stainless Hobo Cutlery Set
• Military Can Opener: P-51 Shelby Opener (see why this is the best portable can opener)
• Batteries: Tenergy Premium Pro Rechargeable Batteries – Stocking up on standard batteries is smart, but rechargeables are clutch for emergencies and survival. (See why these ones tested as the best rechargeable batteries for disasters and survival)
• EDC Sewing Kit: Singer 27pc Sewing Kit – Repairing textiles and other gear can extend their useful life. (See why this is our favorite EDC sewing kit)
• Paracord: TOUGH-GRID Paracord (See why this is our preferred paracord)
• Carabiner: 3″ Aluminum D-Ring
• Duct Tape: Gorilla Tape 35 Yard Roll (See why this is the best duct tape for survival)
• EDC Magnifying Glass: Credit Card Fresnel Lens – Start fires and read maps more easily. (See why this is our favorite EDC magnifying glass)
• Ferro Rod: Bayite Toggle Hole Ferro Rods (see why this is our favorite EDC ferro rod)
• Tinder/Fatwood: TinderQuik – start fires easier (check out the other best tinder and fatwood we tested)
• Waterproof Matches: UCO Stormproof Match Kit (see why these matches are the best)
• GPS Watch: Garmin Instinct 2– Pick your favorite GPS watch (see why this is our best-reviewed survival watch).
• USB Drive: Load a USB drive with your favorite survival manuals and maps of the area.
• Sun Screen: Your favorite brand with high SPF.
• Bug Spray: Repel 100 (see why science says this is the best repellent)
• Hand Sanitizer: During a pandemic, this is an essential EDC item.

Extra Supplies for your EDC Kit

Essentials and suggested additions have been covered, so this is the area will you will find everything else that could be useful to have on you every day. These extra supplies will help you in very specific situations, are less versatile, and may take up a lot of space. Even still, they could be the difference makers in an emergency- so it could pay off to consider adding these.

• EDC Pouch: PJ13 Leather Sheath – Carry more and keep it accessible with an EDC pouch.
• Scarf/Shemaugh: Free Soldier Shemagh – Stay covered in any environment (here are the best-reviewed shemaghs)
• Compressed Towels: Lightload Towels (see why these are the best EDC towels)
• Handwarmers: HotHands
• HAM Radio: Baofeng UV-5R5
• CB Radio: Uniden PRO401HH – HAM may get all the attention, but CB can be an alternative choice that doesn’t require a license.
• Pocket Sharpener: Fallkniven DC3 – Small but effective diamond sharpener (check out our other option in our sharpener roundup)
• Ammo Pouch: Accessible ammo can be a priority depending on your situation.
• Handcuff Key: Streamlight CuffMate
• EDC Fishing Kit: Readyman Fishing Card – Be ready to fish right from your wallet. (here are some other fishing kit options)
• Beef Jerky: Pick your favorite brand and flavor.
• Condiments: Make anything edible (like an MRE!) by dousing it in your favorite condiment. Check out our suggested condiment stockpile list.
• Multi-Vitamins: Make sure your diet completes all of your body’s nutrient requirements.
• Fishing/Hunting License: It’s not a bad idea to keep licenses on you.
• Compass: Brunton TruArc – Stay on track and navigate with maps. (see why this is the best survival compass)
• Local Maps: Print copies of local maps. Here’s how you download them for free.
• Ranger Beads: Matte Ranger Beads – Teach yourself to pace count with ranger beads. (see why these beat the other ranger beads)
• Playing Cards: Wilderness Survival Cards – Don’t forget the importance of entertainment and games. These cards are our favorite from our survival card review.
• Toothbrush: Travel Toothbrush
• Toothpaste: Colgate Travel Toothpaste
• Floss: Floss is versatile and surprisingly strong!
• Wet Wipes: Surviveware Biodegradable Wipes
• Zip Ties: Gardner Bender HD Zip Ties (See how these tested as the best survival zip ties)
• Oil Lubricant: Super Lube – There are over 2,000 uses for lubricant, and it’s a must-have for any tool kit.
• Garbage Bags: Glad FlexForcePlus– Use them for trash, or plenty of other survival uses with these unique double-walled flexible bags. (See why these are the best trash bags)
• Super Glue: Gorilla Super Glue Gel – For when you want something to stay and never move again. (see why this is the best super glue)
• Pencil Sharpener: Twin Sharpener– A great tool to create wood shavings for fire starting. Or sharpening pencils.

The Definitive Everyday Carry Checklist

A perfect EDC loadout doesn’t exist- what is right for you depends on your situation and risk tolerance. That said, we have as close to perfect of a starting point for you: our definitive EDC checklist.

Our checklist is available as both a pdf download and as a Google Sheet/Excel file where you can check off items yourself, and even add and subtract items from the checklist.

Everyday Carry Printable PDF Checklist

If you are looking for the simplest way to print and use the checklist above, download our printable PDF version. It is one page long on 8.5″ x 11″ paper if you reduce the margins to 0.5″. This EDC PDF makes gathering and tracking your EDC gear extremely easy. Once you open the every day carry PDF checklist in your browser, you can either print it directly or save it through your browser.

Everyday Carry Excel / Google Sheet Checklist

If you are looking for a comprehensive way to track your EDC loadout, open our Excel / Google Sheet version. The sheet is sharable, and you just need to copy it to your own Google Sheet account or download it to excel to edit it. We also keep links to our reviews for each category linked to simplify shopping for any equipment you may find yourself missing.

The Next Step

EDC adds tons of versatile functionality to your everyday life. You’ll find yourself using many of the tools you added very often. Now we’re going to pivot and move on to the items you won’t use often at all.

Specialized kits are designed for people in specific situations. Not everyone needs every type of specialized kit. Knowing your capabilities and threats will help you as we move on to the next section: Specialized Kits.

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Introduced in 1959, the .22 Winchester Magnum Rimfire (22 WMR) is the quintessential ranch rifle round. The “.22 Mag,” as it’s less colloquially coined, delivers external and terminal ballistics sufficient to rid the pasture, woodlot and garden of marauding varmints, pests and predators out to 150 yards. When a quality rifle is placed in the hands of accomplished marksmen, that distance can be stretched a bit further. Despite the .22 Magnum’s uptick in external ballistics over the .22 Long Rifle (22 LR), perceived recoil is virtually nonexistent, making it ideal for multi-day prairie dog and ground squirrel shoots. Shooter fatigue with the cartridge is purely fictional.

Further endearing the .22 WMR to homeowners with neighbors is its reduced report; unless ultra-long volleys are commonplace, it’s unlikely that the sound will burden either the nearby residents or livestock within earshot. Ammunition is surprisingly affordable and diverse, too. In fact, 50-round boxes of ammunition in wide-ranging configurations range from $10.99 to $17.99 at MidwayUSA. Given such an assortment—the abovementioned retailer lists 26 different loads on its website—and price range, how do you know what to select? That’s the intent of this article—to provide an unbiased perspective.

In the subsequent paragraphs, I describe the particulars of six current .22 WMR hunting loads, as well as each load’s performance with regard to accuracy from a bench rest at 100 yards (five consecutive, five-shot groups), velocity and terminal performance at 50 yards in modeling clay. Velocities were recorded using a Competition Electronics ProChrono Digital 15 feet from the 20 ½-inch barrel of the test rifle, a Henry Repeating Arms Lever Action Octagon Frontier topped with a Bushnell Banner 3-9X40 riflescope. Bear in mind that as a lever-action rifle, the Henry was incapable of illustrating functionality of the ammunition in a semi-automatic, .22 WMR-chambered arm, and inherent accuracy shouldn’t be judged solely based on results from a single rifle, either. Lastly, I noted the advantages and drawbacks associated with each load. Here are my discoveries.

1. CCI Maxi-Mag .22 WMR 40-Grain Total Metal JacketParticulars: Featuring a full metal jacket, 40-grain bullet propelled to 1875 fps—for 312 ft.-lbs. of energy—this load was designed primarily for plinking and perforating paper; however, it’d nicely pull double-duty for those who want neutralize varmints or even dispatch porkers. Concerning the latter, from the field reports that I’ve read it’s the cat’s meow for exterminating feral hogs—to each their own. MSRP: $11.79 per 50-rnd. box; midwayusa.com.

Test: Across a Competition Electronics ProChrono Digital chronograph at 15 feet, the load averaged 1768 fps. Concerning accuracy, the flat-point, no-lead-exposed bullets proved to be near the top of the heap. In fact, for five consecutive, five-shot groups, it averaged 1.11-inch. The single smallest group measured 0.78-inch. As for its performance in the modeling clay, forget everything that you know about TMJ bullets—it doesn’t apply here. This bullet expands violently; weighing 33.4 grains, the recovered bullet measured an impressive 0.702-inch in diameter. Still, penetration was fairly deep.

Advantages: Eye-opening terminal ballistics, accurate, low cost, no-lead-exposed bullet.

Drawbacks: Looking for a non-expanding bullet to minimize pelt damage? This isn’t it.

2. Federal Premium V-Shok 30-Grain Speer TNTParticulars: This devastating round employs Speer’s appropriately named “TNT” bullet; pairing a lead core and thin jacket in a cavernous, hollow-point configuration maximizes expansion while simultaneously reducing penetration—perfect for stopping critters on the spot and reducing the risk of ricochet. Enhancing the external and terminal ballistics of the 30-grain bullet, its speedy 2200 fps velocity resulting in 322 ft.-lbs. of energy at the muzzle. MSRP: $12.99 per 50-rnd. box; midwayusa.com.

Test: Despite the test rifle’s 20½-inch barrel, this load achieved 2147 fps—only 53 fps less than the velocity achievable from a full 24-inch barrel. Accuracy with this round was respectable, averaging 1.39 inches for the 25 shots. Terminal performance in the modeling clay could be summed up with one word: devastating. The bullet created an immense yet relatively shallow cavity and completely fragmented. It’s little wonder why so many hunters report instantaneous kills on game upward the size of coyote.

Advantages: Shocking terminal performance, good accuracy, reasonable cost, reduced risk of ricochet.

Drawbacks: Want deep penetration? Look elsewhere.

3.CCI TNT Green .22 WMR 30-Grain Lead-Free Hollow PointParticulars: This is one of the few lead-free options in .22 WMR. It features a California compliant, 30-grain hollow-point bullet propelled to 2050 fps. Energy is 280 ft.-lbs. MSRP: $15.99 per 50-rnd. box; midwayusa.com.

Test: Taking into account its lightweight, 30-grain bullet, the recorded velocity of 1960 fps revealed that this is no speedster. That has little effect on its terminal performance, though. In fact, the projectile created a sizeable and surprisingly deep wound channel in which it fully fragmented, leaving the once-compressed core material strewn about. With such expansion characteristics, ricochets would be highly unlikely. The load’s strong showing with regard to terminal performance was somewhat offset by its accuracy potential; in the Henry it averaged 1.95 inches, which is large for extended-range work on smallish species.

Advantages: Lead-free (California compliant), good terminal ballistics.

Drawbacks: Pricey, lackluster accuracy.

4. Hornady 30-Grain V-MaxParticulars: The unabashed long-range option of this assemblage, this load employs Hornady’s 30-grain, polymer-tipped V-Max bullet propelled to 2200 fps, making it ideal for stretching the distance on wary varmints and predators. In addition to increasing the ballistic coefficient (BC) for improved external ballistics, the tip ensures explosive expansion even at the reduced velocities at distance. Recovery distances will be short—if the animals move at all. Energy is 322 ft.-lbs. As an aside, this bullet has a lead core, therefore it’s not California compliant for hunting; however, Hornady manufactures a lead-free option in its 25-grain NTX load. MSRP: $11.69 per 50-rnd. box; midwayusa.com.

Test: Averaging 2166 fps, the Hornady 30-grain V-Max load was the fastest of the group. It was also the most accurate; in fact, the average for five consecutive, five-shot groups was a remarkable 0.94-inch. The single smallest group measured a diminutive 0.21-inch. Between its speed and accuracy, this is the go-to round for stretching the distance. True to its lineage, the 30-grain V-Max bullet proved to be extremely explosive in the modeling clay; only a few shards of the jacket and core and the tip were recovered.

Advantages: Extremely accurate, fast, excellent terminal performance, reduced risk of ricochet, low cost.

Drawbacks: None

5. CCI .22 Mag GamePoint 40-grain Jacketed Soft PointParticulars: Unique in this grouping, the GamePoint load—marketed as a small-game load—features a 40-grain, jacketed, soft-point bullet, which is designed for controlled expansion and deep penetration. Said characteristics will endear it to pursuers of larger, tougher predators, such as coyotes. Propelled to 1875 fps, the bullet produces 312 ft.-lbs. of energy at the muzzle. MSRP: $12.99 per 50-rnd. box; academy.com.

Test: At 1915 fps, the Competition Electronics chronograph revealed that this load was slightly faster than the published velocity. Accuracy wise, the load did good but not great; for 25 shots it averaged 1.65-inch. What stands out about this load is its terminal performance. Constructed more like a big-game bullet than one for varmints, the recovered bullet weighed 39.9 grains—virtually 100 percent weight retention. Moreover, the bullet, which measured 0.545-inch in diameter, created a large wound cavity and penetrated deep. For coyotes and other large nuisance species within the .22 Magnum’s realm, there’s none better.

Advantages: Deep-penetrating, high-weight-retention bullet (perfect for larger animals within the cartridge’s capabilities), descent accuracy, moderate cost.

Drawbacks: More likely to ricochet than the more fragile bullets.

6. CCI Maxi-Mag .22 WMR 40-Gr. Jacket Hollow PointParticulars: Ah, yes, the omnipresent Maxi-Mag .22 WMR load; perhaps none is as so persuasive. The 40-grain, copper-plated-lead, hollow-point bullet is pushed to 1875 fps, for 312 ft.-lbs. of energy. Designed for small game and varmints—think utilitarian—the projectile offers controlled expansion for deep(ish) penetration. Because of its terminal performance, though, only with headshots should it be utilized on edible game. MSRP: $11.79 per 50-rnd. box; midwayusa.com.

Test: This load clocked 1759 fps from the Henry’s abbreviated barrel. Concerning accuracy, at 1.90-inch for it left much to be desired; you’ll struggle to make consistent hits on small species at the 22 WMR’s farthest reaches. The load offered a useful blend of terminal ballistics. Only the GamePoint and TMJ loads out-penetrated the Maxi-Mag 40-grain JHP bullet, and the cavity it produced was sizable. Given the recovered projectile expanded to 0.438-inch in diameter and weighed 17.5 grains, a sizeable portion of the bullet pierced deep while the washed off material would naturally serve to damage vital organs and structures.

Advantages: Utilitarian bullet design, low cost

Drawbacks: Unimpressive accuracy

The .22 WMR is a top-notch cartridge for eliminating nuisance animals at ranges out to 150 yards. However, its maximum potential is unlocked only through load selection. Here you’ve been introduced to six options among the many in the marketplace. One of them will help you extract the most from your “.22 Mag.”

Firearms are essential pieces of equipment in most American households. Unfortunately, crime rates are through the roof and people have never been more concerned for their safety. By virtue of reading this post then it’s highly likely you yourself are a gun owner.

Unfortunately, a lot of people have no idea what to do with their guns (or how to improve them and make them more efficient) beyond storing them in cases and using them in emergencies. In this post, you will learn about the kind of accessories you should fit to your firearms to make them better.

Laser Sight

Laser sights aren’t exactly common accessories, but they are highly useful. If you are the owner of a rifle like the AR-15 then a red dot sight could come in very handy. If you do plan on investing in such an accessory, you need to make sure that you read an AR15 red dot sight guide so that you can use yours more effectively. A lot of people make the mistake of thinking that they can just fit laser sights, and they do not need to perform research and learn how to use them. Not using one’s laser sight correctly could lead to a reduction in their performance and when it comes to actually using one’s gun, failure. Try to find the most affordable but likewise, quality laser sight that you can for your weapon as your gun’s accessories need to be the best of the best.

Flashlights

Typically, flashlights are only fitted to the weapons of military personnel and the police. However, there is nothing stopping you from fitting one onto your weapon. That being said as flashlights can be heavy and can obstruct movement, you should only fit one to your gun if it is really necessary for you to do so. If it is not necessary then you should not waste your time. Find the brightest flashlight that you can, so you can make the most out of it. The brighter a flashlight is, the more useful it is going to be.

Holster

Holsters are great accessories if your firearm of choice is a pistol or handgun. Having a holster means that you will be able to carry your weapon around with you. Before investing in a holster and then using it to carry your gun, make sure it is legal in your state for you to do so. In some states, people can openly carry their guns and in others, they can carry them concealed, in a holster. In some, however, gun owners can do neither. Being caught with a weapon in a public place, licensed or not, is a criminal offense in some places.

Sling

A sling is essentially just a holster for larger guns, like rifles. If you do own an AR-15 as mentioned earlier then it’s a good idea to invest in a sling. Having a sling means that you will be able to carry your weapon around with you. Again you do need to find out what your state’s specific rules are relative to the carrying of weapons in public. If you are not allowed to carry any guns in public then carrying an AR-15 is bound to get you into a lot of trouble since many states are calling specifically for that gun’s banning.

Silencer

A silencer isn’t an accessory you really need, but it can be one that is fun to own. A lot of people have this idea in their heads about silencers that they completely silence shots, but this is not true. They just muffle them. Silencers are extremely loud when they are used which means that they are not ideal for concealing the sound of gunshots completely. Even so, a lot of people use them when they are hunting and if you are a hunter, a silencer is one of the best weapons that you can invest in.

Headphones

Finally, make sure that you have headphones if you are going hunting or plan on attending a shooting range. Do not make the mistake of using your firearm without them. For ears unfamiliar with the sound of gunshots, headphones can save them from bursting. If you have not been in close proximity to gunfire before and use a weapon, the chances are your eardrums will burst, which can be excruciatingly painful. Headphones are not that expensive and make for a great investment for all firearms owners, casual or professional.

If you plan on buying a gun then be sure to invest in at least some of the accessories that have been listed here in this post. They will prove to be very handy and will help you to use your weapon more effectively. Most of these accessories are widely available and very affordable.

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Essential Gear

by Darrin Glenn :: Featured: August, 2002

Every rabbit hunting season I try to invite someone along that has never been on a rabbit hunt, or someone that has not been on a rabbit hunt in a long time. I have always figured there is really no better way to get a new person into rabbit hunting and beagling than to get them out on a good actual rabbit hunt! You can sit and attempt to describe the pure, clean fun of bawling beagles, shotguns and rabbits to a potential hunt partner, but there is no substitute for experiencing the real deal first hand. I have read in numerous publications how the number of hunters is declining in the U.S. each and every year, and it grips me that sooner than one thinks we hunters could be so outnumbered by the liberal, ANTI-Hunting whackos that our seasons “could” be in jeopardy. I realize that the majority of the public is made up of non-hunters (those who are neither anti-hunters nor hunters), and if the figures I have read are indeed correct, the declining number of hunters and their positive influence on the non-hunting public could have drastic consequences on our hunting future! We as hunters need positive, responsible newcomers, young and old, to join our ranks every day to keep our tradition alive and well.

When I invite someone along on a rabbit hunt and they accept, one of the first topics to surface is of course safety and the principles of a successful rabbit hunt. This is and always should be “priority #1”. For everyone to return safe and sound, hunters and dogs, is top priority. Usually the next thing most newcomers want to know about is the proper gear to hunt rabbits. The proper gear for a successful rabbit hunt often is minimal, which is good for young folks. Rabbit hunting does not require an expensive, elaborate firearm or piles of varying camo and clothing. Usually the first topic of gear centers around a firearm. What style of action, chokes, shot size and gauge or caliber? Many may disagree with me, but as a general rule, my regular hunting partners and myself discourage the use of rifles for rabbit hunting with beagles. Why? I feel that using rifles could pose a threat to the hounds as well as others in the hunting party due to the nature of hunting rabbits behind beagles. Usually the rabbits stay in heavy cover when pursued by hounds and usually are on the move, often at a quick pace. This equals shots at fleeing game in cover, where a hound could be unseen in heavy cover some distance from the bunny. A rifle bullet retains much more energy at greater distances than the shot discharged from a shotgun, and with beagles in the brush and hunters spread out to cut off the fleeing rabbit, I feel the rifle is not the best choice for this type of hunting. So that leaves us with a shotgun.

Any type of shotgun will take rabbits successfully. From low-end single shots to top-end fancy doubles, they will all do the job. It boils down to personal preference. I myself prefer either a semi-auto or a pump action, as often my shooting leaves a little to be desired and the second or third shot comes in handy! However, there have probably been more bunnies taken with a trusty ole single shot smoothbore than any other. Most all the gauges of shotguns are suitable for rabbit hunting as well, with the exception of the big-bore 10 gauges, which would be over-kill. 12 gauges are a tad on the heavy side, especially for cottontails, but can be used successfully with minimal meat damage utilizing less restrictive chokes and smaller shot sizes. I have used my trusty Remington 870 12 gauge for years to take rabbits and have found with an Improved Cylinder choke tube and light field loads of 7’s or 7 ½’s that meat damage is minimal for the larger bore shotgun. 16, 20, 28 and 410 gauges are all good rabbit getters when matched with appropriate shot shells. Over the years I have noticed that the majority of cottontail chasers prefer a 20 gauge to the other gauges, and they are probably right! The versatile 20 gauge, matched with the proper choke and shot shell, is an extremely good rabbit hunting gun and can humanely and quickly dispatch a rabbit at about all normal shooting distances with minimal meat damage. Also remember that most rabbit hunts take place in nasty, briar and thorn choked cover, so don’t expect to bring your new, prized expensive shotgun from the cabinet and return home without a scratch on the stock!

Proper clothing is also important for a successful rabbit hunt. Wading through tangles of briars and mean thorns is not pleasant while wearing a pair of your leisure blue jeans and a t-shirt! If a newcomer has visions of a rabbit hunt taking place on the likes of a dove field, he/she will be in for a rude awakening. It is important that proper protective clothing be worn while rabbit hunting. “Briar pants” are a must for the rabbit hunter to be comfortable and to enjoy the hunt. Briar resistant clothing comes in many styles and in a wide array of prices. Many rabbit hunters prefer to wear bib overalls, chaps or pants with the protective leg covers sewn on. All seem to work well if made with quality materials and it is just a matter of personal preference. A briar-resistant jacket is also a must. Scratched and bleeding arms are just as painful as scratched and bleeding legs! I prefer a jacket with several deep pockets and an attached game bag in the rear, and I like the bag to zip off to be cleaned. I also like to wear a good pair of tough gloves, as I don’t enjoy picking briars out of my hands either. Always remember that fluorescent/blaze orange is required in most states while hunting with the use of firearms. Even if not required, wear it! Safety should be first and foremost, and blaze orange on all in the hunting party is a must. The orange material should be plentiful and visible from all sides. I personally like an orange cap and my favorite hunting jacket has an orange game bag on the rear and orange shoulder patches and orange pockets on the front. When in the thickets, there is no such thing as wearing too much blaze orange!

I carry a variety of items with me while rabbit hunting. My hunting jacket pockets are usually stuffed with goodies, such as a whistle for calling in the dogs, a sharp pocket knife, rubber gloves, a small section of parachute cord, a bottle of water, a few snacks and a couple of band-aids for that rebel briar that usually smacks me in the face. I also usually carry a cell phone for instant contact for aid in any emergency.

Any time you have a novice or first-time rabbit hunter accompanying you to the field, be sure to stop and explain the “basics” of rabbit hunting with beagles to them. Be sure to try and place them in the prime spots to take a rabbit and to enjoy the hunt. As the hunt goes along, take the time to explain what is going on, what the hounds are doing and what to expect from “Mr. Unpredictable”, the rabbit. An enjoyable rabbit hunt with friends can mean the difference in having a future beagler join our ranks, another hunter on our side. While in the field, also take the time to show your guest that hunting is not always about the taking of game, but just about being out in God’s great creation, enjoying what He has so graciously given us to use and enjoy!