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Making great venison bratwurst, or any sausage for that matter, is an art form, in my opinion, one that begins with precision. While I feel most great wild-game cooking requires little else besides fire and salt, a greater degree of knowledge and patience is necessary for venison sausage. In my head, it’s the difference between a caveman and a chisel, versus an architect and his or her mechanical pencil.

Months ago I stood in awe – like a kid watching a clown making balloon animals – as Joshua Smith, co-owner of the Barred Owl Butcher & Table in Columbia, MO, took a coil of sausage and effortlessly tied and braided 15 pounds.

Later, he shared his bratwurst spice mix recipe with me, and I used it for a blend of whitetail and pork fat. End result: Amazing. Below are his insights:

“I prefer to use metric weights and a good digital scale (bonus points if it is accurate to the half or tenth of a gram) for measurement in my sausage and charcuterie projects,” Smith said, “as I find it to be much more reliable than a system of cups and tablespoons as it is both easily scalable (just move a decimal point) and because volume and weight don’t directly correspond from one brand/style of salt to the next.”

Amount (in grams) Ingredient Charcutier’s Percentage 10,000 g 60:40 Venison to Pork Fat 100% 180 g Fine Sea Salt (or pure Kosher salt) 1.8% 30 g Ground White Pepper 0.3% 20 g Ground Ginger 0.2% 20 g Ground Nutmeg 0.2% 10 g Ground Marjoram 0.1% 10 g Ground Celery Seed 0.1% As needed 29-32mm Hog Casings n/a

Professional meat processors “build” their sausage using the percentage method, as shown in this recipe. Meat is always 100% and ingredients are based on that. For example, if five pounds of ground venison blend (three pounds venison, two pounds pork fat), reads 2,268g on the scale, I would need:

• 40.824g fine sea salt
• 6.804g white pepper
• 4.536g each ginger and nutmeg
• 2.268g each marjoram and celery seed

“I would round all of these to the nearest whole, half or tenth of a gram depending on the capabilities of my scale,” Smith suggested.

Yes, you can “fake it” without a digital scale, and I personally have done that, but you’re risking something being “off.”

Making venison bratwurst is more than just grinding and blending. There are a few rules to follow and some tips that make things easier. While it may look daunting, sausage making is actually easy once you have the basic process down.

Venison Sausage-Making Steps and Tips

• Fat content is up to you. Some folks run with as low as 20%, while I know others go as high as 60% (or higher).

• Inquire with your local butcher about picking up pork fat (not pork meat, but just the fat), as it is a must for quality wild sausage, in my opinion.

• Invest in hog casings, not collagen, for bratwurst.

• Use quality equipment. MEAT! (meatyourmaker.com) sells commercial-grade tools direct to consumers so there are offerings at a lower cost. I have found lower-quality equipment simply leads to quicker frustration.

• Invest in a meat mixer, versus your hands, to mix together ground meat and spices.

• Plan to devote at least a few hours to this process. (Read: have ample beer on hand.)

• Keep the meat VERY COLD throughout the entire process. I personally prefer to grind, mix, and stuff when the meat is still very slightly frozen. Others put thawed meat in freezer for an hour or two before starting, and freeze for an hour between each step.

• If running a commercial-grade grinder (i.e., one with a motor that produces heat), consider freezing all grinder parts that will come in contact with meat (e.g., chute, grinding plates, etc.). Otherwise, if grinding several pounds, the motor can cause parts to heat up and thus potentially turn your meat to mush.

• Some folks spice their meat before grinding. Some of these folks are the same who stuff sausage using their grinder. I opt to grind, then mix thoroughly with a meat mixer. It’s your call. (Meat mixer means you aren’t adding heat from your hands to meat.)

• Follow the directions on your casings for rinsing and soaking and sliding onto stuffing tube.

• After grinding, when meat mixing in mixer, add spices gradually and mix until spices are absorbed and meat is adhesive, almost sticking to your hand (but still, ideally, very cold).

• When it comes to stuffing, sometimes it helps to work with a partner, though this isn’t essential. While one person cranks, the other can concentrate on easing the casing off the stuffing tube and filling at desired speed (this does require communicating with the cranker).

• Leave tag end (one hanging off tube) untied, as air will come out stuffer ahead of the meat, and it needs to escape.

• Error on side of under-stuffing versus over-stuffing casings. With over-stuffing, you risk breaking casings when filling or twisting to tie off links. With under-stuffing, you can always direct meat through casings when it’s time to twist and tie off links.

• Let the meat come out in one long sausage and spin gradually so it settles in a coil.

• When finished stuffing and ready to spin and tie links, tie your tag end with an overhand knot.

• Use a fine needle of some sort to pop air bubbles (I’ve found this also helps prevent casing bursting when twisting).

• Pinch links to size of 6 inches and spin one direction then alternate spinning direction for next link (so not to unravel previous link).

• Tie other end when finished twisting links.

• Ideally, allow sausages to hang without touching for a few hours then place in fridge overnight so casings can tighten. Casings must sit for approximately 24 hours before you can cut links.

• Even if casings burst, don’t fret – those sausages are indeed salvageable, if not a huge burst, and great with this below recipe. (They just won’t look as pretty.)

Wisconsin-Style Venison Brats and Hard-Cider Kraut Recipe

Ingredients:

• 4 (6-inch) venison brats
• ½ green cabbage head, core removed
• 36 ounces preferred beer
• 36 ounces preferred hard apple cider
• 1 tablespoon kosher salt
• 2 tablespoons freshly ground black pepper
• 1/2 cup malt vinegar
• 1 medium yellow onion, sliced

Get the Recipe: Wisconsin-Style Venison Brats and Hard-Cider Kraut

Sighting in or “zeroing” a rifle is the art of aligning iron or telescopic sights with the barrel, thus allowing the shooter to place bullets predictably at a given distance. In this article, we will focus on telescopic sights or “scopes” because they offer significant advantages over open sights, especially at longer distances.

Scopes have evolved with greater clarity and magnification to match the increasing power and precision of rifles and ammunition. Two systems for aligning scopes have developed independently. Each has a distinctly different origin and approach. The Minute of Angle (MOA) method is an ancient base-60 scheme conceived for astronomy. The Milliradian method is a base-10 scheme developed for artillery in the late nineteenth century. Nonetheless, both are equally effective, using segments of arc to express a certain amount of change in trajectory at a set distance.

MOA — Minute of Angle

Brief

One minute of angle, also known as an arcminute, is equal to a deviation of approximately 1 inch at 100 yards, 2.00 inches at 200 yards and 3.00 inches at 300 yards. One increment of adjustment on many MOA scopes moves the reticle alignment 0.25 (1/4″) of an arcminute or 0.25 inches at 100 yards, 0.50 inch at 200 yards and 0.75 of an inch at 300 yards. These measurements apply to both windage and elevation and are accomplished by rotating a turret adjuster on the scope. Some scopes move reticle alignment in .0125 (1/8″) increments, but many shooters consider this too narrow to be useful, especially at great distances.

Let us consider some examples. If you had a bullet drop of 1.50 inches at 200 yards and wanted to zero your rifle at this distance, you would need to adjust the elevation turret of your scope up by 3 increments or .75 of an arcminute because a minute of arc equals 2 inches at 200 yards. Using these convenient figures, we can generate the following results in Table 1 showing approximate arcminute deviations and the value of one increment at various ranges.

Arcminute DeviationsIncremental Scope Adjustments of 0.25 100 yards = 1.0 inch100 yards = 0.25 inch 200 yards = 2.0 inch200 yards = 0.50 inch 300 yards = 3.0 inch300 yards = 0.75 inch 400 yards = 4.0 inch400 yards = 1.00 inch 500 yards = 5.0 inch500 yards = 1.25 inch 600 yards = 6.0 inch600 yards = 1.50 inch 700 yards = 7.0 inch700 yards = 1.75 inch 800 yards = 8.0 inch800 yards = 2.00 inch 900 yards = 9.0 inch900 yards = 2.25 inch 1000 yards = 10.0 inch1000 yards = 2.50 inch

In order to compensate for a windage error of 2.50 inches to the right at 500 yards, you would need to adjust the windage turret toward the left by 2 increments or 0.50 arcminutes because a minute of arc equals 5.00 inches at 500 yards.

In Depth

The MOA system was handed down from the Sumerians in the 3rd millennium BC. The modern practice of dividing a circle into 360 degrees began with the Sumerians. The Babylonians further refined this measurement by dividing each degree into 60 minutes of arc. Since an arcminute is 1/60th of a degree, there are 21,600 (60 * 360) arcminutes in a full circle. Being a standalone system that is somewhat arbitrary, MOA feels akin to Imperial units, even though it is not part of that system and postdates it by more than two millennia.

True MOA

Shooting purists acknowledge a difference between commonly understood MOA and “true” MOA, which adheres strictly to the underlying mathematics. This meticulous attitude is necessary when acquiring targets that are several hundred yards away because the minor variations of rounded numbers are magnified by distance. In June of 2017, a Canadian Special Forces sniper downed an Islamic State militant from just over 2 miles away. The bullet took 10 seconds to reach its target. Shooting at this distance and accounting for wind, angle of trajectory, light aberration, and even the Earth’s curvature leaves no margin for error. More practically speaking, striking a mule deer from 400 yards, down a powerline slash in Western Montana requires you to be “on your game.”

Calculating the exact deviation of one MOA is a problem of geometry. The circumference of our circle is determined by the radius or distance from the shooter to target. At 100 yards, using the formula of 2 π r, we find that 2 * 3.14 * 100 = 628 yards. As there are 36 inches to a yard, the circumference in inches is 22,608. Now, all that remains is to divide by the number of MOA’s in a circle (21,600) and the quotient is 1.047. This is the actual deviation of one MOA at 100 yards.

Using this precise figure, we can generate the following table of MOA deviations, yielding greater accuracy. Note that the variance from rounded numbers is nearly half an inch at 1000 yards.

TRUE Arcminute DeviationsTRUE Incremental Scope Adjustments of 0.25″ 100 yards = 1.047 inch100 yards = 0.2617 inch 200 yards = 2.094 inch200 yards = 0.5235 inch 300 yards = 3.141 inch300 yards = 0.7852 inch 400 yards = 4.188 inch400 yards = 1.0470 inch 500 yards = 5.236 inch500 yards = 1.3088 inch 600 yards = 6.282 inch600 yards = 1.5705 inch 700 yards = 7.329inch700 yards = 1.8323 inch 800 yards = 8.376 inch800 yards = 2.0940 inch 900 yards = 9.423 inch900 yards = 2.3558 inch 1000 yards = 10.47 inch1000 yards = 2.6175 inch

Let us consider a few real-world examples using these more acute numbers. The bullet drop of a Norma 150 grain, 7mm Magnum bullet is 21 inches at 400 yards. Compensating for this drop would require an adjustment of 20 increments of one-quarter MOA for a total of 5 MOA because one minute of arc equals 4.188 inches at that distance.

Suppose you are shooting a 180 Grain Remington Express in 30.06, from a rifle zeroed at 200 yards. The range of your target is 400 yards, producing a bullet drop of 23 inches. You are shooting to the north and there is a 10 mph wind from the east. In order to compensate for the drop, you would need to adjust the elevation turret up by 22 increments. Wind drift would be about 12 inches, based on the known ballistic coefficient for that bullet, requiring a windage turret adjustment of 11 increments to the right for a total change of nearly 3 MOA.

MRAD — Milliradian

Brief

A radian or “rad” is the standard unit of angular measure used in many areas of mathematics. A Radian is slightly under 57.3 degrees. A milliradian or “mil” is one thousandth of a radian. There are approximately 6283 mils in a full circle.

Just as arcminutes have a predetermined value at various ranges, so do milliradians. These are typically expressed in meters (metric system) rather than yards, for reasons we will examine shortly. Milliradian scopes usually adjust in one-tenth (.10) increments because one full mil makes a sizable difference, even at 100 meters.

The deflection of .10 mils is understood to be 1 cm at 100 meters, 2 cm at 200 meters and 3 cm at 300 meters. The fact that the milliradian system works out to whole numbers makes calculating trajectory and adjusting for windage and elevation very straightforward. If, for example, you have to account for a bullet drop of 33 cm at 300 meters, you would need to adjust the elevation turret up by 11 increments. Compensating for wind drift of 3 cm to the right at 100 meters would require an adjustment of 3 increments to the left.

In Depth

The milliradian system is an International System of Units (SI) derived method of angular measurement. All SI units are based on science. A radian is mathematically defined as an arc-length equal to the radius of its circle. Therefore, the milliradian or “mil” is equal to 1/1000th of the radius. It was first proposed by Swiss engineer, Charles-Marc Dapples, in the mid-nineteenth century and came into prominent use for French artillery during World War I.

The established deflection of .10 mils is .9999 centimeters (cm) at 100 meters, or for all practical purposes, 1 cm. A difference of one ten-thousandth (.0001) of a centimeter is simply too small to be worthy of distinction. Even at 1000 meters, the margin of error would be a mere 1000th of a centimeter (99.99 vs 100 cm). Therefore, at 200 meters a tenth of a mil is considered 2 cm and at 300 meters it is 3 cm. We can extrapolate from these numbers to produce the table below.

Mil DeviationsIncremental Scope Adjustments of 0.10 Mils 100 meters = 10 cm100 meters = 1.0 cm 200 meters = 20 cm200 meters = 2.0 cm 300 meters = 30 cm300 meters = 3.0 cm 400 meters = 40 cm400 meters = 4.0 cm 500 meters = 50 cm500 meters = 5.0 cm 600 meters = 60 cm600 meters = 6.0 cm 700 meters = 70 cm700 meters = 7.0 cm 800 meters = 80 cm800 meters = 8.0 cm 900 meters = 90 cm900 meters = 9.0 cm 1000 meters = 100 cm1000 meters = 10.0 cm

Table 1. Mil and 0.10 mil deviations at ranges from 100 to 1000 meters.

Now for some real-world examples. Suppose you are firing a 140 grain 7.62 mm bullet, from a weapon zeroed at 100 meters, at a target that is 300 meters down range. The bullet drop would be 42 centimeters. You would need to adjust the elevation turret up by 14 increments, since each tenth of a mil would equal 3 cm at that distance. Next you are sighting with a Hornady 140 grain 6.5 mm Creedmoor at 500 meters and it is hitting 5 cm to the right. You would need to adjust your windage turret 1 increment to the left, since each tenth of a mil equals 5 cm at 500 meters.

MOA vs. MRAD

Each system has advantages. Here are a few considerations:

MOA Advantages

• 1/4 MOA adjustments (2.1675″@1000 yards) are nearly twice as refined as 1/10 mil adjustments (3.93701″@1000 yards).
• MOA is more familiar if you live in a country that uses Imperial measurements.
• Most ballistic tables are in feet and yards.

MRAD Advantages

• Base 10 metric values calculate more easily.
• More high-end equipment is MRAD & more pros use it.
• The US Military and many other forces around the globe have standardized on MRAD, influencing production & use.

Beyond this, both systems are equally effective. The question is not which is superior but which is better for you. Generally, if you are more comfortable with the Imperial system of measurements (inches, feet, yards), than the MOA system will feel more familiar. If you favor the Metric system (centimeters, meters), then MRAD may quickly seem like an old friend. Whichever system you choose, you will probably require at least a passing understanding of the other because they overlap in some important ways.

• Many scopes mix the two systems, having a mil dot reticle but turret adjustments in one-quarter minutes of arc.
• Although math is simpler in the base-10 metric system, most ballistic charts are in imperial measurements, requiring conversion from feet and yards to centimeters and meters.

Subtension

Subtension refers to the length of arc at a set distance, described by two radii that are separated by a certain angle. Subtension is a relative term and subject to the system of measurement used. In the context of MOA, for example, it would be evaluated in arcminutes, yards and inches.

So, imagine that you are looking at an object at a distance of 100 yards and the width of your view is two minutes of arc. The subtension would be 2.094 inches. We would say that the angle of two MOA is subtended by an arc distance of 2.094 inches at 100 yards. Not surprisingly, an arc of one milliradian at 300 meters is subtended by a circumferential distance of 30 centimeters. While these terms may seem initially confusing, speaking correctly about such concepts is the beginning of thinking correctly about them and ultimately leads to the power of using them properly.

Subtension becomes valuable when using a scope reticle to calculate the size or distance of an object, as well as the accuracy of shot placement. Next we will examine the application of subtension for this purpose in greater detail.

Triangulation

The process of determining a distance or location by using the knowledge of two other points is known as triangulation. It applies equally to MOA and MRAD and the principles are the same. We will use the latter for illustration because the math is more transparent.

Mil scopes are those with turrets that adjust in increments of mils and also have crosshairs that are segmented into mils (the space between one dot center and another). Milliradian measurements can be used to zero your scope at a given range, assess your shot groupings, determine the size of a target or calculate the range.

You can determine the accuracy of your shots from a known distance by using the reticle as a ruler. If your rangefinder reads 1000 meters and your bullet lands 1 mil-space to the right, then you are off by about 100 cm or 1 meter (subtension). The size of groupings can be found by the same method. If your shots appear to be separated by no more than a mil at 1000 meters, then they are all within 1 meter of each other. Similarly, a target image that appears to be 1 mil high at a range of 1000 meters is actually about 1 meter tall. You can also calculate the range in meters if the target size is known. Just divide the size of your target in millimeters by the number of mils it spans on the reticle. Let us say that you are firing upon a paper sheet that is 1 meter square (1000 mm) and it spans 1 mil on the reticle. Dividing 1000 by 1 yields a quotient of 1000. The range is 1000 meters.

Magnification

Magnification is an important consideration when triangulating. If the reticle is installed on the first focal plane of the scope, it will alter by magnification exactly as the view and remain constant with respect to target image. Such a reticle may be used at every level of amplification. However, if the reticle is installed on the second focal plane, it will remain fixed in size as the view changes, varying the ratio between mils and image. In this case, triangulation may only be performed at one designated magnification; usually at the highest point or halfway.

Calculations and Conversions

Here are some formulae that make manipulating both Imperial and Metric measurements more accessible:

Formulae for Milliradian Based Reticles

Distance to Target (Yards): D=H/I×1000Where D is target distance (yards), H is target height (yards), I is image size (mils), and the quotient is multiplied by a factor of 1000.

Distance to Target (Yards): D=H/I×27.77Where D is target distance (yards), H is target height (inches), I is image size (mils), and the quotient is multiplied by a factor of 27.77.

Distance to Target (Meters): D=H/I×25.40Where D is target distance (meters), H is target height (inches), I is image size (mils), and the quotient is multiplied by a factor of 25.40.

Distance to Target (Meters): D=H/I×1000Where D is target distance (meters), H is target height (meters), I is image size (mils), and the quotient is multiplied by a factor of 1000.

Distance to Target (Meters): D=H/I×10Where D is target distance (meters), H is target height (centimeters), I is image size (mils), and the quotient is multiplied by a factor of 10.

Formulae for Arcminute Based Reticles

Distance to Target (Yards): D=H/I×95.5Where D is target distance (yards), H is target height (inches), I is image size (MOA), and the quotient is multiplied by a factor of 95.5.

Distance to Target (Meters): D=H/I×87.30Where D is target distance (meters), H is target height (inches), I is image size (MOA), and the quotient is multiplied by a factor of 87.30.

Distance to Target (Meters): D=H/I×3438Where D is target distance (meters), H is target height (meters), I is image size (MOA), and the quotient is multiplied by a factor of 3438.

Distance to Target (Meters): D=H/I×34.38Where D is target distance (meters), H is target height (centimeters), I is image size (MOA), and the quotient is multiplied by a factor of 34.38.

Application

So far, our examination of this subject has been mostly theoretical and the calculations approximate. In the field, there are many considerations. You need to watch a few hundred bullets of your favorite caliber go down range from your preferred setup before you can make calls that result in consistent hits at distances well over 100 yards. Still, shooting accurately begins with assumptions based on theory. Then it must be refined by hard core experience. There is no shortcut to shooting accurately in such highly variable situations as big-game hunting or battle. You just have to live there for a bit. Keeping that in mind, here is some useful advice.

Scope and Mount

Standardize on ONE System

Choose a scope that has reticle segments and turret increments in the same system and mount similar scopes on ALL of your weapons. Use either an MOA reticle and 0.25″ MOA adjustments or a mil-dot reticle and 0.1 MRAD adjustments. Splitting between the two will add an additional layer of complexity to your calculations when zeroing, ranging, etc.

Mount and Align Your Scope

Mount your scope as low as possible, using established procedures. This process has many variables and is beyond the breadth of this article. If you are unsure, have a gunsmith mount it for you.

Set Eye Relief

Check and adjust the eye relief. If the focal distance of the scope is not adjusted correctly, it will strike your forehead when the weapon recoils and cut a neat ring into your skin.

Align the Reticle

Make sure that the cross hairs are exactly in line with the vertical and horizontal planes. If they are not, all of your adjustments will be off. This condition is referred to as reticle cant.

Sighting In

Get Set & Level

Get yourself and the weapon set and solidly supported in a comfortable position, on a level plane. All testing and adjustments depend upon your steadiness and precision in handling the weapon.

Zero Point

Decide on a point at which you want the rifle to be dead-on. This should be chosen based on the bullet trajectory and your anticipated shooting range. Bullets travel in an arc, at first rising slightly with energy and then falling as they succumb to gravity. Consequently, your Point-of-Aim (POA) and Point-of-Impact (POI) intersect at two points: early and later in flight. Typically, you want to adjust the zero point so that where you are aiming and where the bullet will strike are close over a significant distance. Thus, you have a spectrum of ranges at which you will be accurate within a few inches.

In some cases your shooting distances may far exceed the overlap between POA and POI. In that case, you should make the weapon accurate at the target range you are most likely to encounter.

Test, Test & Test

Test repeatedly in three-shot groups, adjusting the weapon according to your results. Use the same factory ammunition or carefully constructed reloads every time, at the test bench and when engaged in the field.

Try to limit the variables with each testing session. Go at the same time of day, in the same weather, using your usual mode of dress, etc. Later during practice, you will deliberately alter these variables to improve your coping skills.

Ranging and Sizing

Making determinations of target size and range requires a keen eye for detail because images may appear quite small at a distance. Conversely, your target may be larger than the segmented portion of the reticule. Thus, arriving at accurate reading requires you to make an educated assessment. Here are a few pointers:

Multiply & Divide

Suppose your target is less than one graduation or is one plus a fraction. Compare the fraction with the next whole segment on the crosshair. Is it a forth, half, three-quarters?

What if your target is larger than the graduated portion of the crosshairs? Most scopes only span about 10 graduations along each axis (5 on either side of center for both vertical or horizontal). Position the scope so that one side of the target is at the edge of the dots or lines. How much of the target image is off the graduated portion? Imagine the dots or lines continuing. How many would there be? Another tactic is to divide your subject in half or into quarters and measure a section. Then multiply your reading accordingly to obtain the correct product number that represents the whole.

Increase Your Average

It may be difficult to assess the size or proximity of a target if it is standing on a hill, positioned at an angle, or shifting posture. In this case, it may be useful to take multiple measurements and average the results to obtain a more accurate product. Suppose you are targeting a pronghorn buck that is grazing on a hill. This animal is known to be about 36-40″ high at the shoulder. Use your reticle to measure the height from the shoulder to the front hooves. Now, readjust and evaluate the distance from the top of the hind quarters to the rear hooves. Add the two numbers and divide the sum by two. If your final value is 6 MOA, the buck is approximately 600 yards distant.

You can use the same technique when the subject has assumed two different stances while you are watching.

Scale

What if your target is standing near a known value, such as a fence line. Livestock fences average about 50 inches in height. Compare your subject to this and calculate accordingly.

Non-Graduated Reticles

Some reticles have only plain crosshairs but that need not defeat your purpose. Perhaps you are evaluating a black bear at 200 meters. While keeping the rifle very steady, put the crosshair at the shoulder of your target. Now use the elevation turret to slowly adjust the crosshairs halfway down to the paws while counting the clicks. You may need to estimate if it is standing in ground cover. Suppose it was 25 increments of 1/10th mil. Your subject is approximately 80 cm or 36 inches tall.

Holds and Windage Adjustments

Calculations do not always turn out clean and even. Sometimes the firing solution falls between adjustments. Suppose, for example that you need a vertical adjustment of 7.5 cm at 300 meters. Since each tenth of a milliradian is equal to 3 cm at that distance, there is no whole number of adjustments or “clicks” that would equal the necessary deviation. In order to compensate, you must perform a hold or hold-over. Making holds can be difficult, since you must estimate how much to aim above your target at a given distance to account for the adjustment. In the previous example, adjusting the vertical turret two increments up would elevate the POA 6 cm. Your hold must produce an elevation of 1.5 cm to complete the solution. Looking through a scope at 300 meters, this might be barely the thickness of the crosshair!

Holds are not always made because the solution lay between clicks. Suppose you are sitting on a powerline slash and an eight-point, white-tail buck crosses your field of vision at 150 yards. He will be back in the woods in a matter of seconds. There is no time to adjust your scope before you take the shot. If your rifle is zeroed at one-hundred yards, you will need to compensate by estimating how much to aim over your target for a strike.

Likewise, windage adjustments must sometimes be made on-the-fly. This is also referred to as Kentucky windage, no doubt a reference to the famed Kentucky frontier rifle and the skill of the men who used it. If you are compensating for a wind drift of 7.5 inches to the left at 300 yards, two clicks would bring you approximately six and a quarter inches of change. You would need to adjust your POA slightly to account for the remaining inch and a quarter.

Kentucky windage is used not only to account for motion of the air but also in leading a fast moving subject such as a bird in flight. Even though your target is moving much slower than a bullet, it will not be in the same place when the bullet arrives. You must aim ahead of your target enough to compensate for its forward motion while the bullet travels down range. Leading a moving object is a complex topic and performing it well is an art acquired over time. While it is beyond the breadth of this article, there are many fine writings available to instruct you.

One very useful tool for developing skill at windage adjustments is the Beaufort scale. It uses a series of common observations to estimate wind speed. One way to make your judgment of wind speed acute is to train with an anemometer. Digital anemometers accurately measure wind speed and are very affordable. Once you have used such a device to calibrate your perception of the wind, you can make precise calls on-the-fly with nothing but your five senses.

The Beaufort Scale

1mph-3 mphSmoke moves in direction of wind, slight movement of grass. 4 mph-7 mphWind felt lightly on the face *Very Accurate* 8 mph-12 mphLeaves turn, twigs and treetops will be in motion. 13 mph-18 mphLoose paper, dust, and paper will blow around, small tree branches will move. 19 mph-25 mphLarge tree branches move, entire trees will sway if small. 25 mph-30 mphLarge branches will be in constant motion and walking against the wind becomes difficult.

Between the Lines

Fine shooting is both a science and an art, which is why skilled shooters are so highly respected. There is much that falls between the measurements and calibrations. Equipment factors such as scope mount, action type, barrel length, rifling twist rate, bullet configuration, fouling and even barrel flux resulting from high temperature-among others-all affect placement. Your strength, visual acuity, breathing, shooting position, steadiness and mood determine your mastery over the weapon. Add situational variables including wind, altitude (which changes air density), luminosity, visibility, angle of inclination, distance and so on, and you have an infinitely fluid equation that results in a different answer every time. How well you control and interpret these elements will make the difference between a hit and a miss.

One way to improve your skill is to practice with known target sizes, at given distances, under varying conditions. Deliberately set up so that the target image is too small or too large, the wind and light are different, you are shooting up or down hill, etc. How does a 125 cm target look at 400 meters? What about a 9 inch target at 100 yards? How does your perception change in low light at dawn or dusk? What happens when you are shooting up toward your target?

This sort of practice will gradually calibrate your eye and your mind until it becomes an extension of the scope. You will, in effect, become one with your weapon. In fact, the truth is that YOU are the weapon. The rifle is merely a tool.

Use the information you have obtained here to improve your performance. Happy shooting!

This article is the outcome of much research and the first-hand practice of many shooters. However, individual experiences vary. If you have results that differ from ours or conflict with our findings, we would love to hear your perspective.

In this cartridge comparison of the 7mm Rem Mag vs .300 Win Mag, we are dealing with two cartridges that each carry loyal users and often find themselves the subject of heated debate on numerous firearm forums and within hunting lodges. Both cartridges were released to the public hardly a year apart and further adds to the rivalry that has been raging. Regardless of where your allegiances are situated in this topic, hopefully you are coming into this with an open mind, because both of these magnum rounds are tremendous cartridges and their popularity and longevity in such a cutthroat field speaks in volumes to their performance.

For two cartridges that overlap in so many applications, it is easy to get on the path of trying to determine which cartridge is better. We are not here to lobby for one cartridge over the other. Instead, we want to present the numbers and discuss any strengths and weakness of both cartridges. By doing this, you as a reader has a better resource and source of knowledge to make your own decision.

We will look at several ballistic categories as well as other performance specs throughout the article, and we hope that in the end, you come away with information for a more educated decision based on your hunting and shooting needs.

A Brief History

While some of you might have no interest in the history of either of these rounds, we not only think it is interesting, but we think that if you have an idea of why these cartridges were designed and produced gives you a better understanding of their intended uses. Below you can find some very, very brief histories of these two cartridges.

7mm Remington Magnum

The 7mm Rem Mag has become over recent years, one of the most popular magnum rounds on the market for hunting purposes. It was released to the civilian market in 1962 and quickly gained popularity in the hunting world. This cartridge was able to match and even excel in several ballistic categories compared to the .30-06, one of the most popular long range, big game cartridges at the time, but the 7mm rem came with much more tolerable recoil when compared to other magnum cartridges on the market.

The 7mm Rem Mag is a flat shooting round that is available in a good selection of bullet weights, though maybe not as many as the .300 Win Mag. The majority of bullet weights used for the 7mm rem mag rounds for hunting purposes fall between 150 and 180gr though there are outliers of lighter and heavier bullets.

300 Winchester Magnum

The .300 Win Mag came into production by Winchester in 1963. When comparing to other popular hunting rounds, including other 30-cal bullets the .300 Win Mag is a newcomer. If you look around the internet long, you will find that there are circles of devout followers and also unbelievers in the .300 Win Mag for various reasons. In our opinion, it can’t be denied that this cartridge can fill several hunting needs and is the reason for its continued existence and in our opinion, one of the best magnum rounds of its caliber class.

This cartridge can be packed with large amounts of powder giving it a huge advantage in velocity and the ability to carry a large amount of energy over a greater distance. The cartridge is also able to be to take a variety of bullet weights. Most weights are within the 150-200 grain range, but there are several lighter and heavier rounds available. It is also available in a wide array of bullet styles which gives it a lot of versatility

This is an extremely popular caliber for long-range shooters including those chasing big game. The .300 Win Mag is not only a hunting caliber but is also favored by long range competitive shooters. While this cartridge has been and is still used in sharp shooting corners of the military, the majority of its action is found in the hunting world.

Specs

7mm Rem Mag300 Win Mag Parent Case.375 H&H Magnum.375 H&H Magnum Bullet Diameter.284”.308” Neck Diameter.315”.339” Base Diameter.532”.532” Case Length2.5”2.62” Overall Length3.29”3.34” Case Capacity82gr93.8gr Max Pressure (SAAMI)61,000psi64,000psi

Both the 7mm Rem Mag and the .300 Win Mag were designed from the same parent casing, but their final dimensions do have some very significant differences. We first notice that the caliber of bullets that the casings will accept are different. As the names imply, the .300 Win Mag takes a 30-cal (.308″) bullet, while the 7mm Rem Mag takes a smaller caliber (.284″) bullet. The case and overall length of the .300 Win Mag are slightly longer than the 7mm RM, and its overall case capacity has a larger volume.

While the .300 Win Mag has a higher case capacity and can take higher pressures, it also must send heavier grain bullets down range while maintaining necessary terminal ballistics. The 7mm Rem Mag, on the other hand, is using lighter bullets. Because of this, it will be interesting to see how these two cartridges stack up in various performance categories.

To do this, we have selected five popular rounds from each cartridge that include several different bullet weights and intended applications. For the sake of clarity and brevity, we decided on only five selections each. If your favorite round is not on the list, it’s not because we don’t think it’s a round worthy to take in the field. We have to cut it off somewhere. Below we have listed our ten selections to be used in this article.

Because a lot of the discussion is going to revolve around these ten rounds, and because we are very aware of the possible issues when trying to use a small sample size to extrapolate performance to a much larger field, we have compiled extra rounds for each cartridge. While we will not be graphing all of these rounds (that would be a nightmare for your eyes) we have calculated averages for both and will present those at the end of each section. This way, you can have more data at your disposal if you are looking to make a decision, and it will also check our small sample group and help us confirm that the results we are seeing is accurate for the cartridges as a whole.

These are factory loads, and the performance data we are looking at comes from the manufacturer’s website and well trusted and accurate ballistic performance calculators. While this is fine for comparing specific rounds, it doesn’t mean that the numbers are set in stone. It also means that if you look around at handloading website, you are going to see numbers that sometimes vastly outperform the rounds we will be looking at in this article. While hand loading and the art of balancing the various components that go into a cartridge is a topic worth discussing, it is beyond the scope of this article.

It is also not uncommon to see slightly different performance firing these rounds from your rifle compared to computer generated data. You might see slower velocities as well as changes in bullet energy and trajectory. This is common, and most are not even aware that this occurs and when it does, it is usually not a noticeable difference. What we are saying is that the differences in performance shown here will translate to differences in performance for you when using the same firearms chambered for each cartridge, so the comparisons made here are still valid.

Recoil

While most experienced hunters or competitive shooters are not too concerned with the amount of recoil, others still might be, and those with less experience definitely are concerned about recoil. And recoil does play a role in choosing a cartridge, especially if you are dealing with a decision on cartridges that can be used for similar applications. In our opinion, you can become accustomed to any recoil within reason it still stands that certain amounts can cause you to flinch or close your eyes before a shot.

We used a ballistics calculator to generate the recoil energy (ft.lb) generated from firing each of the ten rounds that we have chosen for comparison. It is important to make clear that we are looking at recoil energy and not the actual kick or felt recoil, though increased recoil energy for one round over another will often translate to increased felt recoil of the same round.

Quite a few factors can influence the recoil such as bullet weight, the amount of powder, as well as the firearm weight. We have kept some of these variables as constants to better compare the two cartridges. We kept both of these cartridges with being fired with a 9lb firearm, and the powder loads were selected from load data. Because we are looking at factory loads, we were very conservative with the amount of powder as factory loads are often loaded with grain in far less amount than the max capacity.

So as you can see, these numbers are pretty fluid and can fluctuate depending on a variety of factors. As long as you keep those variables constant from round to round, the trends we see are going to remain the same.

So, let’s take a look at the recoil energy of the ten rounds now (Graph 1).

When we look at this graph, we see a clear and distinct difference in recoil energies produced from these two cartridges. All five of the .300 Win Mag rounds produced between 27 and 32ft.lb of energy, between 7 and 14 more ft.lb of recoil energy than the 7mm Rem Mag rounds.

A rule of thumb that a lot of shooters go by is that 20ft.lb of recoil energy can influence the shot and even be uncomfortable for some shooters. Again, this is all relative and depends on who is holding the gun. If we do go by this rule, the 7mm Rem Mag rounds still could be troublesome for some hunters and marksmen though still a good bit lighter than the .300 Win Mag rounds.

When you have two cartridges that overlap in a lot of shooting situations each category deserves some consideration. For such a difference in recoil, it usually means there is a performance spec out there that the recoil energy is resultant from. Let’s continue and see what we find.

Let’s take a look at the how the recoil energy between these two cartridges compare when we work with a larger data set. You will find these tables at the end of each section throughout the article.

Average Recoil (ft.lb)

.300 Winchester Magnum7mm Remington Magnum 27.322.1

The recoil energy for these rounds was generated as we described earlier and used the same variables. With the larger sample size, we see the same trend that we saw above. The .300 Win Mag, on average, is generating around five ft.lb more recoil energy than the 7mm RM rounds and if you look at the individual rounds (not shown) they tend to group pretty tightly by cartridge type though there are some outliers for both cartridges as is often the case.

Ballistics

If you’re looking at a cartridge comparison, you are going to end up looking at the ballistic categories. If you’re a hunter, competitor, or just enjoy shooting, understanding how your cartridge of choice behaves in flight and understanding its limitations is critical to your level of success

In this section, we will take a look at several ballistic categories including the velocity, the ballistic coefficient, as well as the short and long range trajectory of the 7mm Rem Mag vs .300 Win Mag. After we have examined these sections, we should have a much clearer understanding of where these cartridges excel and where they fall short and will let us begin teasing apart applications one cartridge might be favored over the other. Of course, it might also tell us that both are more than capable of doing the same thing efficiently and effectively.

Velocity

The velocity is an interesting and critical performance spec for any cartridge comparison. While we will examine it as a standalone performance category, velocity has its hand in just about all other performance specs of a cartridge. It influences recoil, trajectory, and it even influences stopping power of the bullet in several different ways.

While you need a certain amount of velocity to get the proper terminal ballistics, there is a fine line between too little and too much velocity. It is a common mistake to think that the maximal velocity you can get out of a round means a better overall performance. If you load a round too hot it can lead to extreme pressures that become very dangerous for the shooter. If the round is not paired with the correct twist rate of the barrel, the bullet can be highly unstable in flight and become highly inaccurate.

We have compiled the velocities of the ten selected rounds from the manufacturer’s websites and have listed them here. We are looking at the ft/s of each bullet as it moves from the muzzle out to 500 yards (Graph 2).

The first thing that jumped out at us as we looked at this data is that unlike the recoil, there is not a cartridge that has an overall greater amount of velocity. Both the .300 Win Mag and 7mm Rem Mag have specific rounds that show a much higher velocity and also rounds that fall lower on the graph.

If we were to take averages of all the rounds, then there would be a slight advantage to for the 7mm Rem Mag rounds at each yard marker and each time the difference is less than 100fps. Now, 100fps for some might be a bigger deal than others, but keep in mind it’s only an average. There are 7mm Rm rounds that outperform some .300 Win Mag and vice versa.

Both cartridges maintain supersonic speeds over a 500-yard range and will maintain that rating over several hundred more yards. This is more than enough velocity to get proper terminal ballistics for these rounds but keep in mind some of these are not intended for hunting purposes.

From what we are looking at from these factory loads, velocity is definitely a wash between the 7mm Rem Mag vs .300 Win Mag, but that might not be the case when we bring in more data. Below you will find the velocity averages for the two cartridges.

Average Velocity (ft/s)

Yards.300 WM7mm RM Muzzle2976.43031.5 1002773.32828 20025902634 30023902442.7 4002236.42267 5002055.82098.2

When we look at more rounds for each cartridge, we still see that the 7mm RM has higher velocities than the .300 WM rounds at each marker through the bullet’s range. And, like the smaller sample set that we just looked at in our graph, the difference between the two cartridge’s average is less than 100fps at each yard marker.

With two cartridges that have the potential and the reputation for long range shooting, we wanted to also look at how long these cartridges can stay in supersonic flight. We have listed the average cutoff for supersonic flight in the table below.

Average Supersonic Limit (Yards)

7mm Remington Magnum.300 Winchester Magnum 1292.11258.75

We are interested in how long these rounds can maintain supersonic flight because it influences the calculations you will have to make to be accurate with long range shots. When a bullet falls below this speed barrier, its slight is less stable than it initially was and environmental factors begin to have more noticeable influence on the round. When you know when these effects start occurring, you can adjust accordingly or go with a round that might give you more flight time at these speeds.

With these two cartridges, we see fairly similar limits for supersonic flight though the 7mm RM rounds have, on average, 36 more yards of supersonic speed. In the grand scheme of things, we don’t know if that is enough to sway you towards one cartridge or the other without taking into consideration other performance specs. We do know what there is a lot of range in the limits for both cartridges.

Ballistic Coefficient

The ballistic coefficient is derived from an equation that includes input variables from specific cartridge specifications including bullet dimensions and velocity. The physics and math behind the ballistic coefficient and its implications, while interesting, is not something we are going to attempt to convey in this article, but we do urge you to check it out.

In the simplest explanation possible, the ballistic coefficient gives you an idea of how well a bullet is streamlined and how well it can overcome air resistance. The higher the BC, the better the bullet can cut through the wind, meaning it resists drag and wind drift much more efficiently than a bullet with a lower BC. As you can imagine, this makes the BC a relevant piece of information for both long range competition shooters and hunters alike.

We have compiled the G1(for comparison of all bullet types) ballistic coefficients for each of the ten rounds and listed them here (Graph 3).

As with the velocity, we see a lot of variation in BCs throughout all ten selected rounds and within each cartridge class. Both of these cartridges sports rounds with ballistic coefficients well over .45 and each have rounds with BCs above the .6 mark.

If you’re interested in the averages, the 7mm Rem Mag has an average BC of .56 while the .300 Win Mag has an average BC of .553. Though there is a slight difference in the averages, we don’t think it is a fair way to decide which of the cartridges have the better ballistic coefficients. If you need a round that’s going to resist wind deflection and drag, both the 7mm RM and the .300 WM have options to get the job done.

BCs are also important in the trajectories of bullets. Higher BC rounds tend to have flatter trajectories. Since these two cartridges were nearly identical in their BC’s, let’s see if the same trend continues when you look at the short and long range trajectories. Before we move on to the trajectories of these two cartridges, take a look at the average BCs of the larger sample size. It is important to remember when looking at these averages, that they are just averages and you’re not shooting averages out the barrel. It does give you a better idea of which cartridge has more options for higher performance numbers for each specific category.

Average Ballistic Coefficient

.300 Winchester Magnum7mm Remington Magnum 0.4890.483

When we looked at averages of the smaller set, the 7mm RM had a .01 difference in the averages of the rounds. In the larger data set, the .300 Win Mag had a .006 advantage over the 7mm RM rounds. Obviously, there is no real difference in the BCs of these two cartridges. If you are wanting a BC in the .05+ range, there are options for that with both of these cartridges.

Trajectory

Look on any forum discussing shooting and the ballistics of a certain cartridge, and you are bound to see the topic of trajectories pop up. We’re don’t mean to insult anyone’s intelligence, and we are probably speaking to the choir here, but a bullet’s flight path is not a straight line but rather a parabolic shape. A bullet’s design, their BC, and the muzzle velocity all influence the trajectories.

So why exactly is trajectory important, more specific, why is how flat a trajectory is so important? Even with today’s rifle optics, you can ask anyone whether adjusting for a 45″ drop or a 65″ drop is easier and 45″ will be the answer every time. Not only are you taking into account elevation but wind as well. And for hunters, where you might not have all the time in the world to take a shot, the fewer variables you have to account for the better.

Before we launch into the short and long range trajectories, we wanted to step back and show the trajectory of two similar rounds, one for each cartridge, that uses the same bullet design and similar weights, as these cartridges allow, that come from the same manufacturer. With just two rounds, it might be easier to get an overall view of how these two cartridges stack up before we throw eight other rounds into the mix. (Graph 4).

From this graph, it is easy to see that these two cartridges show very similar trajectories out to 500 yards. In this case, the 7mm Rem Mag shows slightly less bullet drop than the .300 Win Mag round and even at their most distinguishable range, we are only looking at around 5” difference. And we can’t rule out the fact that we could change the bullet weights of these two rounds and close or widen the gap. With that in mind, let’s bring in a more diverse selection of rounds for each cartridge and see if we still see similar trajectories.

Short Range Trajectory

While both of these cartridges were designed with longer range capabilities in mind, they are both also hunting rounds, and with hunting, you are going to come across as much or more shots at targets within 300 yards depending on the terrain and the game. With that, we feel it’s important to look at the short range trajectories (Graph 5).

We are looking at the bullet drop (inches) from the 50 to 300 yards with the firearm zeroed in at 100 yards.

At the 200 yard mark, all ten of these rounds are clustered very tightly with a difference of only .7” between the flattest and steepest round. We also do not see any trend towards one cartridge having a flatter trajectory than the other. In fact, the flattest shooting and steepest dropping round are both 7mm Rem Mag rounds.

As we move out the 300-yard mark, there is a little more spread between the rounds but still no clear cut advantage for one cartridge over the other. And when we say spread out we are still looking at a range of less than 2.5”. The top two performing rounds are a 7mm Rem Mag and a .300 Win Mag option, and they only have a difference of .6″.

We are again seeing that both of these cartridges are performing very similarly. If you want a flat shooting round for short hunting situations, both the 7mm RM and the .300 WM are going to get the job done.

Below, you will find the numbers for the larger data set. We have also included an additional 400 yard marker as there are certain hunting situations where this range can be a normal shooting distance.

Average Bullet Drop (Inches) at Short Range

Yards7mm RM.300 WM 50-0.23-0.193 10000 200-2.8-2.9 300-10.7-11 400-24.5-25.6

Just as with the smaller set of rounds we just looked at, these two cartridges are nearly identical in their trajectories. The 7mm RM has a flatter trajectory throughout the bullet’s range, but the largest difference seen between the two cartridges is only 0.9 inches at the 400 yard mark. With that type of similarity, it’s hard to even say it’s an advantage. At these normal hunting ranges, you are not going to get an advantage by going with one cartridge over the other. Instead, your advantage is going to be achieved by selecting from individual rounds and both the .300 WM and the 7mm RM have rounds with phenomenal trajectories.

Long Range Trajectory

Let’s step out and take a look at the trajectories of the 7mm Rem Mag vs .300 Win Mag at increased distances (Graph 6).

We are again looking at the bullet drop (inches) of the ten rounds, but now we are following them out to 700 yards with the firearm zeroed in at 200 yards.

At the 300 yard mark, we are looking at insignificant differences between the two cartridges. The averages of the rounds for each cartridge have a difference of less than .4”.

As we move out to more distant markers, we start to see more of an advantage for the 7mm RM though it is still fairly close, and there are several .300 Win Mag rounds that shoot as flat or flatter than several 7mm RM rounds. Before we list some these differences between the averages of the two cartridges, it’s important to keep in mind the applications you plan to use one or both cartridges for. For hunting purposes, shots out past 500 yards get pretty dicey so the 600 and 700-yard data points are not going to be as important to you as the .300 and 400 points.

Here are the differences in averages of the 7mm Rem Mag vs .300 Win Mag; 300yds (.34”), 400yds (1.32”), 500yds (2.62”), 600yds (3.08”), and 700yds (6.96”). To some these numbers aren’t going have any sway in their decision. For others, the trend of the 7mm RM losing altitude at a slower rate than the .300 Win Mag as you increase the distance is very important.

Though the averages give a slight advantage to the 7mm Rem Mag in flat trajectories, especially as it moves out to the 600 and 700 yards range, the two top performing rounds at each yardage marker was a 7mm RM and a .300 WM. You might have more options for flat shooting rounds for the 7mm RM but be aware that there are .300 WM rounds that can easily compete for flat trajectory.

In the table below, we have listed the average bullet drop for the two cartridges below. We have also added an additional 1,000 yard marker for those who like to push their limits.

Average Bullet Drop (Inches) at Long Range

Yards.300 WM7mm RM 1001.51.4 20000 300-6.7-6.4 400-19.5-18.8 500-39.5-37.9 700-104-101 1000-295.6-286.8

Like the smaller sample set and like the averages we saw when examining the short range trajectory, there is not a whole lot of difference between these cartridges. The 7mm Rem Mag rounds have a slightly flatter trajectory, on average, and this is most pronounced at 700+ yards, but when looking at individual rounds, there is a mixture of both cartridges from the high end of the bullet drop range to the flattest shooting rounds.

Stopping Power

In this next section, we are going to look at several sub-categories of stopping power. Stopping or knockdown power as some like to call it is going to be more important to those looking to utilize these cartridges for hunting purposes.

Stopping power is extremely important in a hunter’s decision for a cartridge. For us and the majority of hunters we know, putting down an animal quickly and humanely is of utmost importance. Not only is it because we don’t want the animal to get away and we don’t want to have to track it for miles, but we also respect the animals a great deal and letting one get away wounded is the last thing we want.

Unfortunately, there is no single measurement that is going to convey to us a cartridge’s stopping power, but there are several factors that influence stopping power such as bullet energy, penetration, and bullet expansion. The two former factors are something we can work with for comparing the 7mm Rem Mag vs .300 Win Mag with computer generated data. For penetration, we will actually look at two different metrics, the sectional density and the bullet momentum.

And while we do think understanding these components of stopping power is important, it is all worthless if you can’t put the right bullet where it needs to go. A small lack of force can be made up for with an accurate shot in the vitals.

Energy

When the powder in the casing is ignited, and the bullet is forced down the barrel and down range, that energy created from the burning powder is carried by the bullet. That kinetic energy is only one factor of a rounds stopping power, but it is an important one. We know from basic physics that if the cartridge can be fitted with larger and heavier bullets and sent downrange at increased speeds (more powder) than they should carry extra force with them. Because of this, we can easily compare two cartridges rather than having to look at the individual bullet types used.

When the bullet impacts the target, this kinetic energy is transferred to the surrounding tissue and organs causing massive damage. This transfer is also affected by how the bullet reacts on impact, such as how the bullet expands. More expansion causes a larger wound and also transfers the energy carried by the bullet more efficiently. Velocity is also a key component in a bullet’s ability to expand, but for now, we are just going to stick with comparing the energies of the rounds involved.

The amount of energy that is required to bring down game varies from animal to animal. While there are general rules of thumb for what is required, nothing is set in stone, and as we just mentioned, there is more involved than just bullet energies. Still, it is accepted that 1,000ft.lb of energy is a good mark for deer while 1,500ft.lb is more suitable for elk. As the species increase in size so does the amount of energy. And like we have mentioned before, using a proper bullet and putting it in the right spot can make up for lack of energy.

Let’s take a look at the bullet energies (ft.lb) of the ten selected rounds from the muzzle out to 500 yards (Graph 7).

Unlike the last couple of performance categories we have looked at, here we see a distinct difference between the two cartridges more so than just between different rounds. From the muzzle out to 300 yards, all of the .300 Win Mag rounds show higher bullet energy than the 7mm Rem Mag rounds. Right from the muzzle, the lowest .300 Win Mag round is carrying 3,474ft.lb of force while the highest 7mm Rem Mag round is carrying 3,303ft.lb of force. The difference between the highest .300 Win Mag and the lowest 7mm Rem Mag round is even more drastic with a difference of 615ft.lb of force.

What is interesting is that as these rounds move downrange, the gap between the two cartridges begins to close. While the three .300 Win Mag rounds maintain their lead; the other two are tightly clustered with several 7mm Rem Mag rounds.

If we look at the averages of the two cartridges at the muzzle and 500 yards, we can see how much this gap closes. At the muzzle, the .300 Win Mag rounds have an average bullet energy of 3,640ft.lb while the 7mm Rem Mag rounds have an energy of 3,162ft.lbs. That’s a difference of 478ft.lb. By the time they reach the 500-yard mark, that difference is nearly cut in half to 224.4ft.lb of difference.

While the .300 Win Mag overall has higher bullet energy, the differences are not too extreme. You can cherry pick a round from each and see quite a bit of difference as we did earlier, but there are a lot that carries very similar energies, and we saw that as they travel downrange they even out even more. And for hunting purposes, we are not sure that an extra .300 ft.lb of force is going to make much of a difference. IF you put either of them in the vital zone, they are both going drop the animal.

Let’s see if the trends continue in the same direction when we look at more rounds for both cartridges.

Average Bullet Kinetic Energy (ft.lbs)

Yards7mm RM.300 WM 03140.83479 1002733.83029 2002372.52658.4 3002051.72290 40017661988.3 5001513.31741.3

When we bring in the extra rounds, we still observe the greater kinetic energy with the .300 Win Mag rounds at each yard marker along the bullet’s flight. And like earlier, as the rounds move downrange, the gap between the two did shrink. While this category was a little more clear cut when thinking about the difference between the cartridges as a whole, there are still instances where some of the 7mm Rem rounds produced KE around or above the average of the .300 WM rounds.

And what shouldn’t be lost, is that while the .300 Win Mag does seem to have more KE, the amount that the 7mm RM rounds generate are not insignificant. Both of these rounds produce enough KE to create a lot of damage on the largest North American game at all ranges most hunting shots are taken.

Penetration (Sectional Density)

Penetration is another component to a bullet’s stopping power that we want to address in this article. For a bullet to quickly kill an animal, it must reach the vital organs. When thinking about how much penetration is necessary, you also have to think about the type of game you are hunting. A mature bull moose is going to require more penetration than a whitetail deer.

There are several factors that influence the amount of penetration that is going to occur, other than the type of animal. Some of these factors include the velocity, the caliber of the bullet, the weight of the bullet, and the bullet’s design. In this section, we are going to look at the sectional density (SD), which is a number calculated from the caliber of the bullet, as well as its weight.

The sectional density correlates with the amount of penetration a bullet will have on the target, and since we are not looking at bullet types and designs in this article, we think the SD is a good means of comparison for two cartridges. And though it is fine for looking at now, when making your final decision on a specific round, it is important that you take into account all of the factors. Understanding your bullet design, how it expands, and the velocity needed for proper expansion and penetration is a huge can be the difference between a clean kill or an injured animal you have to track through the night.

So when you look at the SDs of various cartridges and specific rounds, higher SDs correlate to deeper penetrating bullets. As an example, let’s take two rounds, both are 100gr, but one has a diameter of .100″ and the second has a diameter of .200″. The .100″ bullet is going to have a larger SD than the .200″ bullet and theoretically, deeper penetration. This is because the force behind the bullet is localized to a smaller area and can drive the bullet deeper.

We can do the same exercise, but instead look how the weight of the bullet affects the SD. With two bullets, each with a .300” diameter with one weighing 100gr and the second 150gr, the 150gr is going to have a higher sectional density and deeper penetration.

We have calculated the sectional densities for all ten of the selected rounds have compiled them here (Graph 8).

Like most ballistic and other performance specs we have looked at between the 7mm Rem Mag vs .300 Win Mag, there is not a whole lot of difference between the two cartridges. On average, the 7mm Rem Mag rounds have a SD of .279 while the .300 Win Mag rounds have an average SD of .289, a hundredth of a difference. Both cartridges have their rounds with heavier bullets and subsequent higher SDs.

Though the 7mm Rem Mag rounds are a smaller caliber than the .300 Win Mag rounds, they also have lighter bullets. This difference between the two leads us to rounds that have very similar SDs.

Average Sectional Density

.300 Winchester Magnum7mm Remington Magnum 0.2840.273

Again, with the larger set of rounds, we see the sameresults from earlier. The .300 Win Mag rounds show a slightly higher sectional density than the 7mm Rem Mag rounds.

Penetration (Momentum)

The second metric that we will use to get an idea of how these two cartridges compare in potential penetration is the momentum of the bullets. Moment is simply how well an object in motion will stay in motion. Meaning, how well can the object, a bullet in this case, overcome resistance and keep moving forward. The higher the momentum, the more the bullet can penetrate after encountering resistance. And, this is of course omitting the type of bullet that is being fired which in the field, is going to have to be taken into consideration. Though, for hunting purposes, just about all of the rounds for these two cartridges are going to be designed to hold together well and over controlled expansion.

It is also important to keep the sectional density in mind when looking at momentum. The higher the sectional density, the less resistance the bullet encounters because of the smaller area that is interacting with the target.

We have graphed the bullet momentum of our ten rounds and graphed them below (Graph 9).

From this graph, we can see that the rounds do appear to group with rounds of their respective cartridge type. The averages definitely lean towards the .300 WM rounds for higher momentum. We do see that advantage begin to shrink as the rounds move downrange with an average difference of 12lb/ft.s at the muzzle and 9lb/ft.s at the 500 yard marker.

We do see that the Barnes .300 WM round is a big boost to the averages and without it, the average performance between these cartridges would be much similar. Let’s take a look at the larger sample set and see how the two compare. Even without the highest performing round, we still see the rounds from each cartridge grouping together pretty tightly. For the .300 Win Mag rounds, all of the them leave the muzzle with over 75lb/ft.s of momentum while all of the 7mm RM rounds are below the 70lb/ft.s mark. We also do not see any overlap between rounds of different cartridges until the 500 yard mark, and even then, it is only the highest performing 7mm RM round that matches the lowest performing .300 WM round. And when we say highest or lowest performing, we mean that in regards to only the momentum numbers.

Let’s take a look at the averages of the full data sets.

Average Bullet Momentum (lb/ft.s)

Yards.300 WM7mm RM Muzzle75.466.6 10070.762.2 20064.957.9 3006153.7 40057.249.5 50052.646

When we add in more rounds, we are still seeing the same trends as before. The .300 WM rounds are generating more momentum from the muzzle out to 500 yards. We do see the difference shrink by a few lbs/ft.s but overall, the .300 Win Mag seems to have the advantage if you are wanting more momentum.

These results shouldn’t be too surprising. Given that the mass and velocity make up bullet momentum and since there was very little difference in velocity between the cartridges and the .300 WM rounds have heavier bullets, it makes sense that they generate more momentum.

Accuracy

Trying to determine which cartridge is more accurate is always a task that makes us feel a little dirty. The best method of doing this is through hundreds of rounds through several days of shooting and measuring groupings. Even then, two people’s results can be drastically different. Heck, one person’s results can be different from day to day. And we’re not discounting that method, it can be very valuable, but you just have to be cautious of who you are getting that information from. We think which cartridge has the better accuracy comes down to the person pulling the trigger and their level of experience shooting said cartridge.

If we look at some of the ballistics data such as the ballistic coefficients and the trajectories, there is not a whole lot of difference between the two cartridges in either category. The 7mm Rem Mag had on average slightly higher BCs and slightly flatter trajectories out past 500 yards than the .300 WM rounds, but as we stated during those discussions, there are rounds for both that perform better than others. And if you need some extra power at short range the differences are nowhere enough to make you decide against the .300 Win Mag. In fact, we don’t think there is a big enough difference in these categories to make you lean one way or the other regarding accuracy from the data we have looked at here.

And you can’t discount the role recoil can play in accuracy. We think that most of you here reading this article would easily adjust to the increased recoil of the .300 Win Mag, but there might be some who could easily be thrown off by the kick. And if you’re a person who enjoys burning through a box or two at the range, that extra 10ft.lb of recoil can be fatiguing and lead to a decrease in accuracy over time.

It’s all nitpicking to us. We did feel the need to mention it, but both the 7mm Rem Mag and the .300 Win Mag cartridges can drive nails with some practice on your end, and they can do it from a distance.

Price & Availability

When we look at the price of the 7mm Rem Mag vs .300 Win Mag, it can vary from round to round. Just between cartridges, we don’t think there is enough of a difference to choose one over the other based on price. Each cartridge has cheaper boxes of ammunition and each has more expensive boxes. You can definitely save a few cents per round by looking into handloading for both of these cartridges.

As far as availability goes, just about every major ammunition company are loading .300 Win Mag and 7mm RM cartridges and most of them carry several different models of each. We don’t think there is any difference in availability between the two, though there is less compared to other popular hunting rounds. And with the internet at your disposal, finding exactly what you need has never been easier.

AmmunitionPrice (20 Rounds) 7mm RM HSM Trophy Gold VLD Berger 168gr$47.99 7mm RM Hornady Superformance SST 162gr$32.29 7mm RM Federal Nosler Ballistic Tip Vital-Shok 150gr$36.79 7mm RM Winchester Expedition Big Game Long Range 168gr$43.99 7mm RM Nosler Trophy Grade AccuBond 140gr$58.00 300 WM Hornady Superformance SST 180gr$30.99 300 WM Federal Trophy Bonded Tip Vital-Shok 180gr$46.99 300 WM Nosler Trophy Grade AccuBond Long Range 190gr$48.99 300 WM Barnes Precision Match OTM 220gr$48.99 300 WM Federal MatchKing BTHP Gold Medal 190gr$52.99

Applications

As we start top close out this comparison, let’s try to take the results we have found and start teasing apart certain applications of these cartridges might be better suited or maybe applications where you can’t go wrong with either.

We have also provided the average tables throughout the article below to make it a little easier for you as we move through this section.

For long range precision shooting, both of these rounds have options to get the job done. The 7mm Rem Mag rounds have more options for higher muzzle velocities, flatter trajectories, and better BCs which helps performance greatly downrange. That is not to say that there aren’t .300 Win Mag options that can give you very similar performances, but most would rather not deal with the increased recoil for dozens of shots within a short time frame.

While both of these rounds can function in long range precision shooting, the majority of users are going to be using them in a hunting capacity. Both the 7mm Rem Mag and the .300 Win Mag can be used for medium sized game such as deer, hogs, antelope, and sheep at just about any realistic hunting range. We really like the lighter 7mm Rem Mag rounds for these game animals. Overall, both rounds are really overkill for these game animals stopping power wise, but that extra range can be a game changer.

Both cartridges also have heavy enough bullets and the terminal ballistics to be used for larger game such as elk, moose, and more exotic game and still have a wide effective range. For bigger and more dangerous game, you might like the kinetic energy and larger bullets of the .300 Win Mag but as we discussed in the previous sections, we would be comfortable with either cartridge in these hunting scenarios.

We did see slightly higher sectional density numbers, on average for the .300 Win Mag and pretty significant differences in the momentum data with the edge going to the .300 Win Mag as well. Both of these combined, barring bullet design, indicate that the .300 Win Mag should have better penetration potential. And that is not to say that the 7mm RM rounds are not going to penetrate well. Given that the cartridge is still around tells you that it is able to bring down large game efficiently. If you were of the mind to get as much penetration as possible, the numbers say the .300 WM is better suited. Even so, it’s really more about picking the correct round rather than the correct cartridge.

Best Rounds

Before we wrap up this article, we want to take the ten rounds we have been looking at and pick a couple that we think fits certain applications well.

Top Hunting Round

For the 7mm Rem Mag rounds, we are big fans of the HSM Trophy Gold VLD Berger 168gr round. We think the 168gr bullet is a great weight for hunting purposes as it has a manageable recoil. It has one the best muzzle velocities and BCs of all the rounds we looked at so you have excellent downrange ballistics, including a flat trajectory. It doesn’t have the highest amount of energy associated with it, but with the excellent Berger VLD bullet and velocity, you get more than enough penetration and expansion to take medium to large game at common hunting ranges.

For the .300 Win Mag, our choice goes to the Nosler Trophy Grade AccuBond Long Range 190gr. Some of our reasons for selecting this round is the terminal ballistics and the stopping power. This round maintains over 2,000fps throughout a 500-yard flight, which is more than enough to cause proper expansion of the ballistic tip bullet. This speed along with the sectional density is going to be more than enough to penetrate to and through vital organs of big bull elk and moose at long ranges. It might be a bit of overkill for medium sized game and you might get a bit more damaged meat, but there is little doubt that it will put them down.

Conclusion

Both of these magnum rounds have been in circulation for just about the same amount of time. More than enough to have a good feel for their strengths and their weaknesses. The fact that both are still used and still a topic of debate should give you an idea that both can be highly effective rounds in the right hands and the right situations.

We hope that this cartridge comparison of the 7mm Rem Mag vs .300 Win Mag has given you an unbiased look at some of the ballistic and other performance properties of these two rounds. We also hope that you have come to the same conclusion as we have after researching these two cartridges. With practice, either one can easily become your go to round.

Ammunition List

Here’s our review of the Ravin R10 crossbow. Ravin presents rifle-like crossbows that are significantly smaller and narrower than crossbows of other brands. The R10 is the successor of the R9 Predator. We also reviewed the Ravin R20 and the R26.

We were very excited to put the Ravin R10 to the test and can already tell you that we had a lot of fun with the crossbow for this review and we will have a lot of fun with the crossbow in the coming years because the R10 is built to last.

In the package we found the Ravin R10 crossbow with Predator Dusk Camo, a 100 yard illuminated long-range scope, three Ravin arrows(300 grain) with nocks and 100 grain practice points, a detachable cocking handle, mounting bracket, and a Ravin user manual.

The crossbow comes in the exclusive to Ravin crossbows, Predator Dusk Camo, and is also available in Gunmetal grey camo.

Ravin R10 Crossbow Specs

Design and Construction

The Ravin R10 is significantly more compact compared to its predecessor, the R9 Predator. The R10 measures a total length of 33 inches, an axle to axle width of 10.5 inches uncocked, and only 6 inches when cocked. The Ravin R10 tips our scales at 6.8 pounds.

The Ravin R10 is a lightweight crossbow that is highly maneuverable, the crossbow is suited for run and gun situations and easy to handle in tight spaces such as hunting blinds,

Ravin is of course famous for its patented Helicoil technology. Crossbows with Helicoil have a number of design advantages, and it allows the Frictionless Flight system to work.

The R10 features Helicoil technology and the Frictionless Flight System. Helicoil allows the cams to rotate 340-degrees, generating higher speeds with better accuracy. With a traditional crossbow, the entire arrow rests on the rail.

The Helicoil system allows an arrow to float freely, eliminating energy loss due to friction. The Helicoil cams ensure that the cable barely touches the rails and there is no downward pressure on the cable. As a result, the cable is not slowed down and barely wears.

Scope

The Ravin scope is a high-end 100 yard crossbow scope that is made of high-quality materials. The scope features fully coated lenses with red and green illuminated reticles. The scope is crystal clear to look through and performs well. The Ravin scope is fog-free and waterproof and contains shock and kickback resistant technology.

Cocking mechanism

The R10 is equipped with a built-in crank cocking mechanism, the so-called Versa-Draw cocking system. This cocking mechanism reduces the crossbow’s draw weight to a mere 12 pounds of force. The cocking handle is of course detachable.

The Versa-Draw cocking mechanism also ensures that the crossbow is cocked 100 percent evenly for an extra clean shot. Cocking by hand is not possible, because of this you are not able to release half-cocked.

Trigger

The Ravin R10 comes with Ravin’s Tac Trigger Fire System. It is a crisp 4 pound trigger that gives you control over the shot. Shooting with the Tac trigger system is not noiseless but very quiet and with little vibration. The trigger system contains anti-dry fire technology to prevent the crossbow from dry firing.

Range Test

The Ravin R10 is a fast and powerful crossbow that shoots arrows with speeds up to 400 feet per second and is capable of delivering 142 KE knockdown power.

We used the Ravin arrows(300 grain) to speed test the Ravin R10. On our chronograph, we measured speeds in the range of 360-380 feet per second.

The R10 is an extremely accurate crossbow. The superb stability of the crossbow combined with Helicoil technology and the excellent 100-yard scope make the R10 one of the most accurate crossbows available on the market today.

WARNING: DO NOT USE NON-RAVIN ARROWS OR NOCKS WITH YOUR RAVIN CROSSBOW.

Assembly

The Ravin R10 comes fully assembled and with a Ravin crossbow manual. You only have to mount the scope, attach the side mount quiver, and accessory bracket. It takes a couple of shots to finetune the scope.

Install the scope

Tho install the scope first attach the bottom rings on the rail. Lay the scope into the bottom rings. Place the top rings on the bottom rings so the scope is surrounded. Lighty snug up the screws on the top rings so you can still freely move the scope in the rings. Adjust the scope until you find the furthest point forward to ensure maximum eye relief (at least 2 inches from your eye) that allows you to see a full field of view.

Remove the elevation turret cap and place a level on the elevation turret. Rotate the scope in the rings until it is level with your the crossbow limbs. Tighten the upper rings, alternating between front and back screws, while still keeping an eye on your scope levels. Keep slightly tightening and alternating from front to back until secure. Rotate the FPS selection dial to match the manufacturer’s advertised speed.

Attach the quiver

Attach the mounting bracket to the bottom of the Ravin R10. Screw the mounting bracket into the hole on the bottom of the Picatinny rail with the sloped surfaces on the mounting bracket pointing forward.

To attach the Quiver to the mounting bracket, press and hold the thumb release on the mounting bracket. Position the posts of the quiver in the holes on the mounting bracket with the hood facing forward. Release the thumb release to lock the Quiver in place.

Reverse the process to remove the quiver from your crossbow. The quiver can be mounted on either side of the mounting bracket. Most right-handed shooters prefer to locate the quiver on the right side.

Attaching and removing the cocking handle

To attach the Cocking Handle to the mounting bracket, press and hold the thumb release on the mounting bracket. Position the posts of the Handle in the holes on the mounting bracket with the Cocking Handle head facing forward. Release the thumb release to lock the Cocking Handle in place. Reverse the process to remove the Cocking Handle.

Recommended Accessories

Arrows & Broadheads

We recommend using 400 grain Ravin Arrows. These arrows are made from 100 percent pure carbon and offer quiet, hard-hitting performance. They feature brass inserts and aluminum nock bushings.

Combine the arrows with Ravin’s mechanical broadheads. These broadheads are optimised for crossbows with velocities of up to 450 feet per second.

Storage and Transportation

We recommend a Ravin R182 Hard-Shell crossbow case to properly store and carry the Ravin R10.

We recommend Ravin’s R260 padded crossbow shoulder sling. It is an adjustable 2 1/2-inch wide padded non-slip sling with a neoprene design.

Ask any turkey hunter, whether he’s a novice or a seasoned veteran, what his meaning of the perfect spring gobbler hunt is, and nine times out of 10 his tainted version will paint a picture sort of like this….

“Well, year before last I had seen this big ol’ bird in the field bottom fuzzed up with a bunch of hens. I mean you could near about see him him any time you wanted to venture across that pine ridge to where you could see the whole field. I figured that he has to be roosting somewhere around the creek as it fed into the beaverpond.

“So one night I told my wife that I had a good mind to go see if I could kill that gobbler the next morning. I didn’t do a real good job of figuring what time it was going to get light enough to see cause I got to the top of that pine ridge and the sky hadn’t even begun to break yet. So I was sitting there catching my breath when, dad burn, if that bird didn’t gobble just down the hill at the end of the field.

“I eased down the hill toward him about 50 more yards and set up by a big ol’ rotten pine treetop that had fallen during a bad ice storm that winter. I mean that bird was gobblin’ up a storm by now. And it was just starting to get light. I hadn’t heard a hen yet, but I gave him something to gobble about when I hit that box call with three or four little yelps. I think he forgot to take a breath cause he gobbled twice in a row. Directly he flew down and landed about 30 yards from me and went into a full strut. When he lifted his head, I let him have it with both barrels.”

Sound familiar? You bet it does! Unfortunately, these textbook encounters seem to happen only to the friends of mine who take a lackadaisical attitude into the woods with them in the spring. All my buddies who really get after the longbeards and study turkey hunting as if it were a college algebra class usually recant their first dual of the day as only a very rewarding, learning experience where the only student was the hunter and the teacher happened to be a wily gobbler that left class early with a bunch of his girlfriends.

All of us turkey hunters have experienced the time when all of our heart and soul was involved in the hunt as we set up on a roosted bird at daylight, only to be totally discouraged in our calling and hunting abilities as Casanova merrily made his way through the forest with his harem, paying no attention to the deliberate approach, crafty setup and finely honed calling sequences. The rest of the morning just seemed to follow a time-tested ritual: a half-hearted march back toward the truck stopping only occasionally to vent our frustrations by making a weak stab at finding another turkey. “It’s getting too hot anyway, I think I’ll grab a biscuit and go fishing.”

It is at this very time of the day that the most successful turkey hunters, the ones that regularly fill their tags every year, have only begun to get excited about the day’s hunt.

Why? The more we learn about the behavior patterns of the wild turkey during the spring, through harvest data, radio telemetry studies of gobblers and just plain old hunting experience, the more we find that the absolute best time to kill a gobbler is between the hours of 9 a.m. and 1 p.m.

Let’s take a look at what goes on in the turkey woods during this time of day and what makes it so productive. I visited with some experienced Georgia turkey hunters who have become quite good at calling in longbeards on a regular basis.

Being in the woods a lot during the entire year is not a problem for Mike Hunt, of West Point. Mike is a timber cruiser for Jones Woodyard in LaGrange and is constantly on the go around a several-county area as he cruises, marks and bids on tracks of timber. “Big Mike” became well-known in central Georgia for his deer hunting and fishing abilities, but during the last five years, he has enjoyed his share of success chasing gobblers. What is Mike’s favorite time of day to kill a bird? Just ask him.

“I have had by far most of my luck during my lunch break. I am at an advantage over most folks because come lunchtime I am usually real close to a piece of property that I have permission to turkey hunt on. I have to be at the woodyard most mornings at 8 a.m., so my early morning hunting before work is very short. I don’t usually have a problem knowing where to go to hear a bird on the roost at daylight but almost always he has hens with him early on, especially during April. So what I like to do is set up on him as normal, and even if he doesn’t come my way, I’ll get a fix on which way he’s headed. If I am around that area two to five hours later, I’ll slip in quietly and hit him with some excited cutts from my box call.

Mike’s strategies have been formulated through a lot of trial and error, like giving up on a bird and not trying him until the following day. His new-found tactics for success are simple. Give the bird time to court his hens and eventually they’ll leave him for their nests. The lovesick tom is content a lot of times to strut in his home range waiting for the hens to return later in the day.

“When I first started turkey hunting and knew very little about turkeys and their habits, especially gobblers, I only hunted at daybreak. Eventually I killed a few birds but most mornings I just couldn’t compete with all the hens. Now, I would say that if I had to choose one particular time of day that I was allowed to go into the woods after a longbeard, there’s no doubt it would be during the middle of the day.”

Laughing, Mike added, “I’m not a world-championship caller by any means, but I’ll tell you, a lonely gobbler can make a good caller out of me.”

Mike has also seen the sport of turkey hunting grow at a very fast pace. Naturally, he sees the disadvantage of having to compete with other hunters now more than ever for a good turkey, but with his midday tactics, Mike has found a way to take advantage of the early morning pressure.

“I honestly feel that with your turkey populations getting hunted harder and harder every year, and the vast majority of the hunting pressure taking place during the first three hours of daylight, their instincts are beginning to tell them that responding to the call of a hen first thing in the morning can be risky business. But on the flip side, some aggressive calling on up in the day when most hunters have gone home can bring in a gobbler when nothing else will. The biggest turkey I have ever called in for someone was for a fellow from Florida. I had fooled with this particular bird for a few days early in the morning, then I took this gentleman one day and he killed him at about 11:15 a.m. The old gobbler came strutting in very cautiously. His spur lengths were 1 1/2 inches and 1 3/8 inches.

Don Jones, of Marietta, spends most of his time in the turkey woods in McDuffie, Hancock, Taliaferro and Wilkes counties. These areas of the state have long been known to provide many hunters a rush on any given spring morning, but they also get plenty of hunting pressure, especially the past couple of seasons. Don, like Mike, knows the rewards of waiting out a gobbler until the middle of the day.

Being an excellent bowhunter with a Pope & Young deer to his credit, Don is an avid outdoorsman who just enjoys being in the woods. Staying in the woods from daylight until well into the afternoon is not uncommon for Don during the turkey season, and consequently, much of his success comes during what he calls his “flash hunts.”

“A flash hunt is when I’m calling aggressively one moment and the next moment I’ve got a gobbler on the ground,” said Don.

He describes his midday tactic as “prospecting.” Unlike a lot of experienced turkey hunters who rely on several different types of calls during a day’s hunt, Don travels very lightly in anticipation of covering a lot of ground on a routine hunt, and he depends almost exclusively on mouth diaphragms.

“Like any other turkey hunter, I’m waiting for the redbirds to wake up while waiting for that first gobble. If I’m not able to set up on a gobbling turkey early on, I start covering as much ground as possible. I stay mainly on top of the ridge and call down into the bottoms with a lot of excited cutting calls. I won’t usually get real serious about locating a receptive tom until after the sun has had a chance to get on up in the sky,” said Don.

“The reason I don’t call real heavy early on is I feel the chances of calling a longbeard away from his harem of hens is small, and I feel like I’m just educating the birds to my style of calling.”

This point is to be taken seriously. Since turkeys are birds with very strong social ties, meaning they don’t like to hang out alone except when hens nest, it is not a gobbler’s first choice to leave the company of other turkeys early in the morning.

The established dominance order a group of gobblers plays a key role in why midday hunting can be very successful. With turkeys roosting every night in groups, whether they’re large or small groups, there is a series of events that usually take place just after daybreak during the breeding season. They turkeys fly down and the dominant toms commence to strutting and courting the hens. During this time, the subordinate gobblers (usually 2-year-old birds) will hang around the action just to watch what is going on. Sometimes they can even get away with strutting, as long as it is outside the comfort zone of the boss tom. Any effort to get too close to the hens is met with some resistance. This continues for the first hour or two after fly-down time. Eventually, these subordinate, or satellite, gobblers will have worked themselves up in a frenzy and stray off looking for some action. It is these birds that can provide, in Don’s words, a flash hunt. Also, after a little longer length of time, the dominant gobbler is given the cold-shoulder treatment by his hens as they leave him to go to their nests, making him just vulnerable enough on up in the middle of the day to come in to some excited cutting calls of a hen.

Don ends up with this piece of advice, “I try to cover as much ground as possible, cutting loudly and often to get a response. The instant that I feel like the gobbler has begun to make his way toward my calling, I will cut back considerably on the volume and frequency of my calling. This is also a good time to begin scratching in the leaves to sound like a hen is feeding. I have killed some birds by only scratching after he answered my call and was headed my way.”

With turkey season nearly two weeks old, there is a good chance that gobblers in your neck of the woods have heard their share of calling early in the morning. By giving midday hunting a try, you can increase your odds by calling to birds when they don’t normally hear a lot of excited hen talk, catching a tom whose harem of hens has given him the slip, or maybe coaxing a satellite gobbler to within gun range.

The Missouri Department of Conservation (MDC) recently set turkey and deer hunting dates for the 2024-2024 seasons along with regulation changes for the 2024-2024 deer-hunting season.

The regulation changes include a new firearms early antlerless portion, a new firearms CWD portion and changes to firearms antlerless permit numbers in most counties. The hunting dates and regulation changes were approved by the Missouri Conservation Commission at its Dec. 2 open meeting in Jefferson City.

“The changes to deer hunting regulations for the 2024-2024 deer season were motivated by increasing deer numbers throughout much of Missouri and in response to changes in the distribution of chronic wasting disease (CWD) in the state,” said MDC Cervid Program Supervisor Jason Isabelle. “With a growing deer population in most Missouri counties, we’re increasing opportunities for hunters to harvest deer both within and outside of the CWD Management Zone next year.”

“With deer populations being at desired levels in most counties but continuing to increase, additional antlerless harvest is needed to stabilize deer numbers,” said Isabelle. “The creation of an early antlerless portion of firearms deer season and increasing the availability of antlerless permits in most counties will provide hunters with more opportunities to harvest antlerless deer and help meet our deer-management goals.”

According to MDC, firearms antlerless seasons that occur prior to the primary firearms season are not uncommon and several Midwestern states have established similar season portions.

“The early antlerless portion will help to increase antlerless deer harvest prior to the November portion of firearms season when the focus of many hunters is on harvesting a buck,” said Isabelle. “The timing of the early antlerless portion was designed to occur when weather conditions are generally comfortable and during a time that will minimize conflict with archery hunters, who spend the most time hunting during late October and early November as the rut approaches.”

CHANGES TO FIREARMS ANTLERLESS PERMIT NUMBERS

MDC has also increased the number of firearms antlerless permits hunters can fill in most counties, including allowing hunters to fill a firearms antlerless permit in Butler, Carter, Scott, and Wayne counties. MDC has also increased the number of firearms antlerless permits from two to four in 82 counties.

“Prior to 2014, firearms antlerless permit numbers were unlimited in 74 counties,” said Isabelle. “However, following the severe hemorrhagic disease outbreak that occurred throughout much of the state in 2012, we became much more conservative with firearms antlerless permit numbers to allow the deer population to rebound.”

He noted the deer population has steadily increased during the last decade, necessitating the liberalization of antlerless harvest opportunities to slow population growth and keep the deer population at desired levels.

Get regulation details and a list and map of allowed antlerless permit numbers by county from the MDC website at mdc.mo.gov/hunting-trapping/species/deer/regulation-changes-2024-24-deer-season

Detailed information on the new firearms early antlerless portion, the new firearms CWD portion, and changes to firearms antlerless permit numbers by county will also be included in the MDC 2024 Fall Deer & Turkey Regulations and Information booklet, available starting in July where permits are sold and online at mdc.mo.gov.

Are you tired of suffering from hearing loss after a day at the shooting range or while working in a loud environment? Hearing protection is crucial to prevent permanent damage to your ears. But with so many options on the market, it can be overwhelming to choose the right one.

Two popular brands in the hearing protection industry are AXIL and Walkers. Both offer a range of products that cater to different needs and preferences. In this article, we’ll compare the features and benefits of AXIL and Walker’s hearing protection to help you decide which brand to choose.

So, whether you’re a hunter, shooter, or work in a noisy environment, read on to find out which brand offers the best hearing protection for you.

Walker’s vs AXIL Hearing Protection

Walker’s and Axil are both well-regarded brands in the field of hearing protection, each with its own set of unique strengths, product offerings, and user experiences, making them some of the best ear protectors for shooting on the market today.

AXIL Hearing Protection Brand

AXIL, a merger of SportEAR and Harris Hearing Group, has a history of over 60 years, specializing in the design and production of hearing protection devices. The family-owned company offers FDA-cleared products designed and engineered in the United States, focusing on enhancing and protecting hearing abilities.

AXIL’s strengths lie in its range of products, including earbuds, earmuffs, and earplugs, their commitment to quality, innovation, and customer-oriented features such as an online clinic-based hearing test, a 1-year warranty, and free shipping on orders over $50.

Walker’s Hearing Protection Brand

On the other hand, Walker’s specializes in hearing protection with various products tailored to different needs.

Their strengths lie in the excellent amplification of voices their products offer, the comfortable user experience, and the provision of different types of amplification. However, some products can be uncomfortable for extended wear.

We are going to look at one comparable set of earmuffs and Bluetooth shooting earplugs from each brand; the comparisons are;

• Axil Trackr vs Walker’s Razor Slim
• Walker’s Silencer BT 2.0 vs Axil GS Extreme

When evaluating these hearing protection devices, we examined the effectiveness of noise reduction, sound amplification, comfort, and durability. For AXIL and Walker’s, customers also value device features such as Bluetooth connectivity and volume control, battery life, and the ability to withstand different environmental conditions. A similar brand to Axil and Walker’s is Pro Ears; read our comparison.

Axil Trackr vs Walker Razor Earmuffs

Noise Reduction Rating (NRR)

When comparing the Noise Reduction Rating (NRR), the Axil Trackr Earmuffs outperform the Walker’s Razor Slim Earmuffs. The standard Axil Trackr Earmuffs model has an NRR of 25 dB, which indicates that it can reduce ambient noise by up to 25 dB. On the other hand, the Trackr BLU model goes even further with an NRR of 27 dB, thereby providing a higher level of noise reduction.

The Walker’s Razor Slim Earmuffs have an NRR of 23 dB. While this is a commendable rating, it falls slightly short of the noise reduction the Axil Trackr Earmuffs offers. However, this difference could be meaningful, especially in environments with high noise levels.

Noise Cancellation and Sound Reproduction

The Axil Trackr and Walker’s Razor Slim Earmuffs have advanced sound technologies. The Axil Trackr Earmuffs utilize sound-activated compression technology with a rapid reaction time, allowing the earmuffs to reduce loud noises instantly. They also have two directional microphones and high-fidelity speakers for clear, natural sound reproduction.

On the other hand, Walker’s Razor Slim Earmuffs uses active noise cancellation technology that selectively filters out harmful noise like gunfire while enabling clear communication. Furthermore, the omnidirectional microphones and speakers enhance the perception of sound direction, which can be a significant advantage in some situations.

Check out how Walker’s compares to Howard Leight in noise cancellation.

Design

In terms of design, the Axil Trackr Earmuffs feature a compact and slimline construction that is lightweight and portable. This model also includes a comfortable headband with a sturdy metal wire frame. Moreover, the earmuffs are sweat and water-resistant, making them suitable for outdoor usage and in various weather conditions.

Contrastingly, the Walker’s Razor Slim Earmuffs are characterized by their well-built and durable design. These earmuffs feature thin ear cups to minimize the bulkiness and an adjustable headband for a personalized fit. Furthermore, they are designed with comfortable ear padding to enhance the user’s comfort during prolonged usage.

Comfort

For comfort, the Axil Trackr Earmuffs have been highly praised. Their slimline design ensures minimal pressure on the ears, which is crucial for users needing to wear the earmuffs for extended periods. Furthermore, the adjustable headband and cushioned ear pads contribute to the overall comfort.

While the Walker’s Razor Slim Earmuffs are also designed with comfort in mind, the over-ear design may not be ideal for all users. For example, some shooters might find them too large or bulky, although the adjustable headband and comfortable ear padding are appreciated features.

Extra Features

The Axil Trackr Earmuffs are packed with several extra features. One standout feature is the audio input jack, which allows users to connect an external audio device. Additionally, these earmuffs have separate volume controls for hearing amplification and Bluetooth audio, providing a more customizable experience for the user.

Walker’s Razor Slim Earmuffs also offer additional features like an audio jack for connecting external devices. Furthermore, they provide adjustable volume settings through a conveniently placed volume knob, allowing users to adjust the sound level easily and quickly.

Bluetooth

The Trackr BLU model from Axil leaps the wireless technology department by offering Bluetooth connectivity. This feature facilitates audio playback and hands-free communication, allowing users to stay connected even in noisy environments.

As the latest product line, Walker’s Razor Slim Earmuffs has a model with Bluetooth capabilities. Before this, the lack of wireless connectivity might have limited the versatility and convenience, but now they are easily compared to the Axil Trackr BLU model. Now, they are both great Bluetooth ear muffs for mowing.

AXIL GS Extreme 2.0 vs Walkers Silencer Earplugs

Noise Reduction Rating (NRR) and Noise Cancellation

The Walker’s Silencer Earbuds have a respectable noise reduction rating (NRR) of 25dB for the first model and 23dB for the rechargeable second model. They provide significant protection from harmful noise levels, vital for settings with loud, sudden noises, such as shooting ranges. In contrast, AXIL’s GS Extreme 2.0 earbuds demonstrate an impressive NRR of 29dB, reflecting a higher level of noise attenuation compared to the Walker’s Silencer.

As for noise cancellation, both Walker’s Silencer and AXIL’s GS Extreme 2.0 implement an active approach. Walker’s Silencer offers multiple audio modes to suit the ambient environment, and the AXIL GS Extreme 2.0 uses sound compression technology for noise cancellation. However, despite both being effective in noise cancellation capabilities, the AXIL GS Extreme 2.0’s higher NRR could indicate better overall noise protection.

Sound Reproduction

Sound reproduction is crucial in hearing protection earbuds, particularly for those hard of hearing. The Walker’s Silencer earbuds utilize omnidirectional microphones, providing excellent sound reproduction and allowing users to hear ambient sounds clearly. On the other hand, AXIL’s GS Extreme 2.0 also offers audio enhancement features, aiding those with hearing difficulties.

Both products provide the option to amplify quieter sounds while protecting against louder, potentially harmful noises. However, while both models are praised for their sound reproduction capabilities, personal preference will likely play a significant role in choosing one.

Design and Comfort

Design and comfort significantly impact the usability of earbuds. Walker’s Silencer earbuds are praised for their comfort and customizable fit, and they come with different foam tip sizes for added convenience. These earbuds are lightweight and accompanied by a durable charging case. Similarly, the AXIL GS Extreme 2.0 earbuds also offer different earplug sizes and styles, ensuring a comfortable fit for various users. In addition, they have Sportfit ear hooks for improved retention and a compact size that adds to portability and comfort.

Each product has taken steps to ensure comfort and a good fit. However, some users might find wires on the AXIL GS Extreme 2.0 earbuds bothersome, even though it aids in keeping them together and reduces the chance of loss. Others might prefer the completely wireless design of the Walker’s Silencer earbuds.

Extra Features and Bluetooth Capability

Both earbuds offer additional features to enhance user experience. The Walker’s Silencer earbuds have a Bluetooth variant, Silencer BT, offering voice prompts and four distinct sound profiles. In addition, their application provides a customizable user interface, though some users have reported issues with it. The AXIL GS Extreme 2.0 also provides Bluetooth connectivity, volume controls, and audio enhancement features. However, some users have mentioned a slight hissing sound and sensitivity to user voice as potential drawbacks.

Overall, both the Walker’s Silencer earbuds and the AXIL GS Extreme 2.0 earbuds offer many features, ensuring user needs are met. However, personal preference and specific requirements might dictate the choice between the two, given the slight differences in characteristics and user experience.

AXIL XCOR vs Walker’s Disrupter

The Axil XCOR and Walker’s Disruptor earbuds both serve as advanced hearing protection devices with additional features for an enhanced auditory experience, but they differ in several key aspects.

The Axil XCOR offers a Single Number Rating (SNR) of 29 dB, with the ability to vary between 19-29 dB depending on the ear tip used. It features Digital Hearing Protection that compresses noises over 85dB, such as gunfire, to protect hearing while allowing ambient sounds to be heard. The XCOR also supports Bluetooth connectivity for music and calls, touch control, USB-C charging, and boasts a water and dust-resistant design. Battery life ranges up to 12 hours for Hear Control only, 6 hours for Bluetooth Audio only, and 4 hours for both.

Walker’s Disruptor, on the other hand, has a 24dB noise reduction rating and includes features such as Bluetooth, a rechargeable USB-C case, and a comprehensive set of listening modes. It offers Forward Focus Mode to prioritize sounds in front of the user, 360° Directional Sound with four microphones for true spatial awareness, Active Noise Cancellation (ANC) for reducing background noise, and Rapid Impulse Cancellation for immediate reaction to harmful noise levels. The Disruptor also pairs with a smartphone app for customizable settings.

In summary, while both products aim to provide hearing protection and enhancement, the Axil XCOR focuses on tactical use with a higher SNR and robust design, whereas Walker’s Disruptor emphasizes situational awareness and customizable sound experiences through its app and various listening modes.

AXIL vs Walker: Which is Better?

After a comprehensive comparison of the two most popular earmuff and earplug models from AXIL and Walker’s, it becomes apparent that both brands deliver high-quality, effective products tailored toward meeting diverse user needs. In addition, both companies have showcased their expertise in providing noise protection, sound reproduction, comfort, and extra features. Another notable comparison is Walkers vs Peltor hearing protection.

AXIL’s GS Extreme 2.0 earbuds and Tracker earmuffs provide impressive noise reduction ratings and sound reproduction, aiding hearing protection and enhancement. In addition, their Bluetooth capabilities, customizable fit, and additional features like volume controls speak volumes about AXIL’s dedication to providing a comprehensive hearing protection solution.

On the other hand, Walker’s Silencer earbuds and Razor earmuffs offer a slightly lower noise reduction rating but excellent sound reproduction and noise cancellation capabilities. Their commitment to comfort is seen in their customizable fit and design choices. The Silencer BT model offers four distinct sound profiles and Bluetooth connectivity for convenience. Walker also has Game Ears hearing aids.

Choosing between AXIL and Walker’s depends on your needs and personal preferences. For example, if the highest level of noise reduction is a priority, AXIL might be the better choice. However, if a completely wireless design and a more comprehensive range of sound profiles are more important to you, Walker’s could be a better fit.

In conclusion, AXIL and Walker’s produce reliable, high-quality hearing protection. It’s recommended to try both brands, evaluate them based on your personal needs, and then make an informed decision. Each brand has unique strengths and areas of specialization, providing diverse options for those seeking superior hearing protection.

DON’T MISS Episode 34 – 2022 Giant Gear Issue Series – Decoys with MOJO and Big Al’s

Big Al’s Decoys – Ken White Super Speck Pack Silos

Big Al’s Silhouette Decoys has teamed up with former World Speck Calling Champion Ken White to develop the Super Speck pack. Ken has spent decades hunting specks on his home turf in California, learning decoying tactics that pull specks in close to the guns. These highly portable and lightweight decoys feature photo-print realism, tough fluted plastic bodies, ultra-flat low shine finish and the choice of basic or spring steel stakes. Packed in dozens with 4 searcher, 4 feeder and 4 alert body postures included.

$66 per 12 | bigalsdecoys.com

Dive Bomb Industries – V2 Snow Goose Silhouettes

The winner, winner chicken dinner of silhouette decoys, Dive Bomb Industries’ V2 Snows, are painted with pure black and white colors that boost realism. Each decoy is crafted from a 4mm thick corrugated material that is durable and rigid. The images are printed using non-glare ink additives, and DPI (dots per inch) printing means each side of the decoy features the same quality look, and the one-piece powder-coated spring steel stake resists rust and ensures rapid setup and take-down. You can haul these decoys anywhere.

$70/dozen | divebombindustries.com

Dakota Decoys – X-Treme Sleeper Shells

Great for those cold, snowy day sets when honkers hit the field and go into nap mode, Dakota’s X-Treme Sleeper Shells are single-piece sleepers, which means no heads to hassle with. They are constructed of polyethylene to guarantee seasons of use, and there is no seam line for cold-weather outings to crack. The decoys come in packs of 12 and are available in a painted version with flocked heads and tails and a full-body flock.

$250-$310 | dakotadecoy.com

SX Decoys – Lesser Combo Canada Goose Flocked

From the minds at SX comes the fully-flocked Lesser Canada. Not only are these Canada imposters flocked, but they are built using Flocked Bird Vision color correction and Bird Vision UV flocking to ensure maximum realism. Available in packs of 6, 12, and 24, these fakes come with SX’s patent-pending motion system and loop kits installed.

$195-$770 | sxdecoys.com

Dave Smith Decoys – Snow Goose Juvie Combo

Fooling a flock of snows is getting harder and harder, but when you add a few of these 10-packs to your spread, wings will cup, and body counts will go up. The realistic fold-away legs make storage easy, and the newly designed motion cone gives these juvies just-right movement. Feather matched and showcasing a two-tone paint scheme, these ultra-realistic decoys are built tough and will provide you with years of use.

$390/10-pack | davesmithdecoys.com

GHG – XD Series Full-Body Honkers Active 4-Pack

GHG’s XD Mallards are well established in waterfowl lore, and this savvy decoy maker has taken the best characteristics of this mallard series and poured them into the XD Series Full-Body Honkers. A new RealMotion System married with FlexLock Technology perfectly combines realistic movement with an integrated locking system that secures the motion bases and decoys together. This means a one-piece decoy that is a breeze to set and pick up. The detail is elaborate, and flocked heads add extra realism.

$160/4-pack | banded.com

Real-Geese – Xclipse Shadow Series

An affordable, custom silhouette, Real-Geese’s latest addition to its impressive decoy line — the Xclipse Shadow Series — is winning waterfowling hearts. These two-sided silhouettes showcase a non-reflective, textured surface, and the lightweight plastic boosts durability while keeping weight down. Use these dekes as stand-alone-style or sprinkle them in with shells and full-body imposters. The Xclipse comes with 20-inch powder-coated stakes that drive into any ground, and these goose-dupers are available in one and three dozen packs.

$85-$255 | webfootdecoys.com

Higdon Outdoors – Clone Snow Goose

We love stacking up snows, but doing it regularly is getting more difficult. Many waterfowl biologists’ credit this to the lack of juvenile birds, which is a result of poor hatches. Fooling snows that have survived many migrations is complex, and Higdon’s Clone Snow Goose Decoy is what the Goose Doctor ordered to pull the dupe on flocks of mature snows. This fake mimics live birds’ realistic wing beat and accurate body posture. Plus, it’s bomb-proof and performs brilliantly no matter the conditions. This motorized snow goose imposter comes with a remote, stand, power cord, storage case, and requires a 12V battery—not included.

$300 | higdonoutdoors.com

Bullwinkle Disease in Deer

The term “Bullwinkle disease” sounds more like a joke about someone than an actual ailment. As it turns out, Bullwinkle disease in deer is a thing. It’s a true-to-life disease that can impact deer. Although quite rare, it seems white-tailed deer can get an infection that causes their muzzle to swell. In turn, their face looks more like the cartoon moose Bullwinkle than that of a normal, healthy whitetail.

Wildlife vets know that the head swelling is caused by a long-term bacterial infection in soft tissues of the afflicted deer’s face. However, the most fascinating part of Bullwinkle disease is that no one knows how deer get it. Or even where the bacteria comes from.

Bullwinkle Deer

Source: “The Southeastern Cooperative Wildlife Disease Study (SCWDS) has been studying the parasites and diseases of white-tailed deer for more than 56 years. With so much time and effort invested in this area, one would think that few surprises would be left, but that doesn’t ever seem to be the case. Since 2005, we have received samples from ten deer with oddly deformed muzzles, as well as reports of several other affected deer. The swollen muzzles give them a strange appearance and prompted someone to call them “Bullwinkle deer,” based on their resemblance to the 1960’s cartoon character.

Although the cases reported to us are uncommon, they occur over a wide geographic area. In fact, affected white-tailed deer have been submitted to SCWDS from as far north as Michigan and as far south as Alabama. Furthermore, the condition also has been confirmed in a mule deer buck in Idaho.

Bullwinkle Disease in Deer & Head Swelling

The swollen faces are the result of chronic inflammation in the soft tissues of the muzzle. Deer with lumpy jaw can also have swollen jaws, but not to the same extent. The inflammation also is seen in connective tissues in the oral cavity, but it is much more severe on the nose and upper lip. All of the deer examined have had similar colonies of bacteria within the inflammatory infiltrates. Attempts to culture the bacteria have been frustrating. This is possibly due to chronicity of lesions, freezing and storage of samples prior to submission. Alternatively, it may be due to excessive growth of secondary bacterial contaminants.

Staining characteristics and DNA sequencing of the bacterial colonies observed suggest they differ from other organisms known to cause problems in deer. Investigations continue into the bacteria’s potential role in the development of this condition.

So far, all of the reported cases have been in hunter-killed deer or deer observed in the wild. Some deer have been thin, but there have been no reports of mortality directly attributed to this disease. One landowner reported having seen the same affected deer at a backyard feeder for nearly two years. Many of the deer observed or killed have been known to visit feed sites. However, the association with feeding is anecdotal. At this time, we do not know the factors that may predispose a deer to develop this unusual condition.

The lesions are certainly dramatic, but this disease does not appear to have any negative consequences for deer populations. Cases are relatively infrequent and are not clustered. It is possible that this problem has always occurred in deer, but at a very low prevalence. However, it has become very easy for photographs to be widely circulated among hunters and biologists in a very short period of time. We can attribute that to hunters, trail cameras and the internet.

This rapid sharing of information may have increased the detection and submission of rare and unusual cases, such as the Bullwinkle disease in deer we see here. Prepared by Kevin Keel, University of California-Davis”

So you’re at your favorite local sporting goods store, looking at the deer feeders, and you notice that they’re a little on the pricey side. Not only that, but they’re mostly pretty simple designs. And you think to yourself, “I wonder if I could just make my own and save some money?”. Well, you can!

An effective DIY deer feeder is easy to make, even for the most mechanically challenged. You can make them as simple or as complicated as you want, and with some creativity, you can make one out of stuff you already have lying around, taking up space on your property. Here are five ways you can quickly build your DIY deer feeder that will be higher quality than the store bought ones and a heck of a lot cheaper too.

Most Common Homemade Deer Feeder Designs

• PVC Pipe Gravity Feeders – Quick and easy to make, transport, and set up. You can make them in different sizes to hold more or less feed. And they have the added benefit of being low profile and unobtrusive.
• Buckets & Drums – These can hold larger amounts of feed, so they don’t have to be filled as often and can be made from discarded, easily obtained materials.
• Tripods – A tripod mounted bucket or drum gives you more versatility with placement, and they’re more stable. They can also be equipped with a motorized automatic feeder to drop feed on a schedule or use the simple gravity feed method.
• Troughs – Simple frame construction to hold protein or corn. Instead of spilling onto the ground, the feed fills a trough.

1. Poor Man’s PVC Feeder

This design is just what it says, all the materials can be bought at your local hardware store for $50 or less, and the only tools needed are a drill and a hacksaw.

You pour your corn or whatever feed you’re using into the top of the tube, and gravity keeps it moving downward as it gets eaten.

It has a drain at the bottom to let out any rainwater that gets in to keep the feed from becoming moldy. Deer will have no problem getting their snout into the pipe to retrieve the feed.

Bill Of Materials

• One PVC pipe of the desired length (at least 3’ and up to 10’) and 6” diameter
• Two 6” PVC slip-on end caps
• One 6” PVC Wye (Y) coupler
• Several small eye-bolts (number depending on length)
• One can PVC primer
• One can PVC cement
• Spray paint for camouflage
• Power drill
• Hacksaw

Steps

1. Cut the 6” PVC pipe to the desired length. The longer it is, the less often you’ll have to fill it, but longer ones will be harder to reach to fill.
2. Primer the end of the pipe and one female end of the Wye coupler following the directions for use. Add cement to both pieces and attach them.
3. Drill some holes for drainage in one of the end caps, primer and cement the inside edge, and attach it to the bottom of the Wye coupler.
4. Drill holes along the side of the pipe to attach eye-bolts. These will be used as strapping points to secure it to the tree. Number required depends on length.
5. Take the end cap that will cover the top of the feeder and drill one hole in the center and one in the side, with a corresponding hole in the main pipe. Attach one eye-bolt in the top to use as a handle. The second eye-bolt will attach the lid to the pipe to keep the raccoons from raiding your feeder.

You can mount your new feeder to a tree with bungee cords, ratchet straps, or rope. You can also find pre-made drain caps at the store but make sure the holes are small enough to keep your feed in.

2. 5-Gallon Bucket Deer Feeder

Another easy-to-build and ridiculously affordable feeder. It uses a 5-gallon bucket to hold the feed, with a small hole cut into the bottom.

A wooden bridge is fitted across the inside of the bucket about two inches from the bottom that suspends a length of an all-thread rod through the hole. A large tin can is suspended from the bottom of the rod so the wind or nudging deer can cause the feed to fall from the hole.

The feed is kept in the bucket until the can is moved by a washer slightly larger than the hole suspended on the rod an inch or so below the hole, just enough to keep the feed in the bucket until the rod is moved when a small amount of feed will drop to the ground.

Bill Of Materials

• One 5-gallon bucket with a lid
• One ¼”-20 all-thread rods (threaded along the whole length) about 36” long
• Five ¼” washers and one 2” washer
• Six ¼” nuts
• One 1” x 2” board 16” in length
• One large tin can (or similar item)
• Power drill
• Saw

Steps

1. Cut a 1” wide hole in the bottom of the bucket
2. Cut two 2” long sections off of the board then trim the board to fit across the bottom of the bucket (most 5-gallon buckets are 10.33” across at the bottom)
3. Drill a hole through the middle of the board aligned with the hole in the bucket, large enough to allow the rod to swing slightly, nail or screw 2” pieces to the end of the board as supports, place in bottom of the bucket
4. Place 2” washer on the rod with ¼” washers and nuts on each side, double nuts on the lower side to keep it securely in position on the rod
5. Secure the rod from the wooden bridge through the hole in the bucket, adjust the 2” washer so it’s about 1” below the hole
6. Drill ¼” hole through the side of the can in the middle, attach to end of the rod with nuts and washers

Use a rope to hang your 5-gallon feeder over your spot, adjusted so the deer can reach up and nudge the can for feed. Ensure your 2” washer is placed so the feed can flow, but not too quickly. The sound of the feed plinking on the can will also attract other deer in the area when they get accustomed to it.

3. 55-Gallon Drum Gravity Feeder

This one takes a bit more work to make but it’s very economical to build. If you live a long way from your property or can’t get out there very often, this will hold enough feed to last for a while.

This plan leaves the lid attached to the drum to make sure rainwater stays out. It’s simply a 55-gallon drum mounted a few feet off the ground on a wooden platform and held in place with a ratchet strap.

Four 2” holes are cut around the bottom of the drum and 2” PVC elbows are inserted and cemented in place to channel the feed. Then cheap and readily available 12” drywall mud trays are bolted underneath the channels to hold the feed.

The drum can be filled by removing the plugs on top and using a large funnel. It’s secure and stable and works quite well.

Bill Of Materials

• One watertight 55-gallon plastic drum
• Materials for platform
• Four 2” PVC elbow joints
• Four 12” drywall mud trays
• Eight screws
• PVC cement
• Power drill

Steps

1. Build a platform to hold drum 2’ off the ground securely. You can do this with boards, concrete blocks, or even PVC tubing. Just be sure it can handle the weight and won’t tip over.
2. Cut 2” holes at four points around the bottom of the barrel about 4” up.
3. Insert 2” elbows into holes and cement in place. You can cut off part of the elbow to let the feed enter at a lower angle.
4. Drill holes in corners of drywall mud trays and corresponding holes in the drum to attach the trays underneath the feed channel. Screw trays in place.
5. Attach drum to the platform with a ratchet strap.

You’ll want to use spray paint to camouflage your feeder before you begin. If you have a white plastic drum you can leave a strip unpainted so you can observe the feed level.

4. Tripod Feeder

If you’re looking to build a feeder that’s easy to transport, holds a lot of feed, and automatically distributes feed on a timed schedule, this is the plan for you.

This design uses a metal or plastic drum of whatever size you choose equipped with a motorized automatic feeder such as the type manufactured by American Hunter, Moultrie, and other companies.

Aluminum tubing is used to make a tripod with detachable legs that can be easily taken off for transport and reattached with a quick release pin. The brackets to hold the legs are made from tubing slightly larger than the legs so that they can slide inside and be secured with a pin.

A hole is cut into the bottom of the drum to allow feed into the motorized feeder. A funnel can be fitted to the inside bottom of the drum to ensure that all the feed is used.

Bill Of Materials

• One metal or plastic drum, camo painted
• Aluminum tubing, two different diameters
• Six 1/4” bolts with washers and nuts
• Plastic tubing caps
• Motorized automatic feeder
• Large funnel
• Power drill and bits
• Hacksaw
• Basic hand tools

Steps

1. Cut leg tubing to the desired length. For bracket tubing, cut three 14” lengths.
2. Flatten 4” on one end of bracket tubes and drill two ¼” holes for bolts. Drill another hole 4” from the round end for connecting pin.
3. Cut hole in the bottom of the drum the approximate size of the feeder entry
4. Drill holes in drum and attach brackets with bolts
5. Drill ¼” hole in leg tubes 4” from the end that will slide into the bracket
6. Bolt automatic feeder to bottom of the drum, fit funnel over the hole in the bottom
7. Install tubing caps on end of legs and attach to bracket with a quick-release pin

Remember to put a piece of plywood under leg caps to keep legs from sinking in soft ground.

5. Protein Trough

This simple design can be done in several ways, but this plan is super sturdy and will last for years. It uses a 55-gallon drum cut in half to hold the feed, mounted on a covered platform made with 4” x 4”s and corrugated roofing panels. A little wood construction experience will help, along with access to the appropriate power tools.

Bill Of Materials

• 55-gallon plastic drum with lid
• Three 4” x 4” x 8’ treated beams
• Three 2” x 4” boards
• Three sheets of corrugated roof panels
• ¼” bolts, nuts, and washers or screws

Steps

1. Cut 55-gallon drum in half
2. Construct frame, and two upright posts mounted on beams with a crossbeam at the top and another about 32” above the ground.
3. Build a roof frame on the platform with 2” x 4”s
4. Attach corrugated roofing panels to frame

Make sure the roof covers enough to protect the feed and brace the posts with 2” x 4” sections.