Today the pump shotgun is a pretty utilitarian tool. Most have next to no frills; any accessorizing is usually limited to lights, lasers, magazine extensions or loading ports. There’s nothing wrong with this. One does not need or even want figured wood with hand-cut checkering for defending one’s home, breaching a door or bringing down a duck in a marsh. But a century ago elegance was as much a part of gun design as practicality.

Pump- or slide-action long guns have been around for a long time. Alexander Bain of Britain received the first patent for a pump action in 1854. During the latter part of the 19th century Winchester, which was the recognized leader in lever-action repeating rifles, tasked John Browning with providing the company with its first repeating shotgun, and because Winchester was all about lever actions it wanted its repeater to be a lever-gun as well. Browning responded with what would be known as the Model 1887 shotgun. The Model 1887 enjoyed some success, but it did have some handling and reliability issues.

Winchester eventually ceded to Browning the notion that a pump-action shotgun would be a better, more reliable repeater. In 1893 the company introduced a slide-action shotgun designed by Browning. There were immediate issues with the Model 1893, one of which was the 1893 was designed for black powder shells. Ammo companies were rapidly changing to smokeless powder in their shotshells, and Winchester’s brass were terrified that they would be vulnerable to lawsuits from people injured from shooting smokeless loads in the black-powder Model ’93. Within four years Winchester redesigned the Model ’93 into the Model 1897, replete with a solid-top receiver and 2 3/4″ chambers. Another safety feature was incorporated so that the fore-end had to be pushed forward slightly to unlock the bolt before the action could be operated. It may have been the first instance of a product recall in America; Winchester offered to buy back or exchange a Model ’97 for a Model ’93. The Model ’97 was a solid shotgun with more than a million copies made during its 60-year production run.

Thomas Crossley (TC) Johnson came to work at Winchester as a 23-year-old engineer in 1885. Johnson would eventually be responsible for no less than eight of Winchester’s most iconic firearms. Soon after the turn of the 20th century Johnson began to work on a more modern design than that of the Model ’97. Competition for marketplace share was intense between gunmakers, and all of them invested heavily into keeping themselves ahead of the technological and design curve. The most objectionable feature of the Model ’97 was that damnable exposed hammer. It just seemed offensible to the sensibilities of a refined shooter. The fix that Johnson came up with was to simply hide the hammer inside an enclosed and streamlined receiver.

Johnson also redesigned the internals. Whereas the Model ’97 used a carrier or shell lifter that does double duty to lock the bolt, the Model 1912 locks the bolt directly into the receiver and has a separate bolt release activated by pulling the trigger or pushing a button at the rear of the trigger guard. The carrier is hinged at its rear and under spring tension so that when the bolt is in battery it is more or less flush with the bottom of the receiver. This arrangement is stronger than that of the 1897, though the older shotgun has never been criticized for a lack of strength. Like the Model ’97, the Model 1912 was not originally produced with a disconnector, meaning that a shooter can hold the trigger down and fire the gun by simply operating the slide. This feature seems to mostly impress people who know little about guns or how to use them, as well as the movie going public.

The Model 12—as it became known after 1919—was made from the finest steel alloys of the time. Parts were forged and required extensive, and often complicated, machining to produce them. Winchester’s marketing guys immediately christened it the “Perfect Repeater,” and like a lot of those old Winchester nicknames, it struck a chord with the shooting public and became common in usage. All of this came at a price, of course. The Model 12 was about 40 percent more expensive than the ’97, yet it consistently outsold its older brother during the 45-year-span they shared in the Winchester catalog.

When it was introduced, the Model 12 was only available in 20 gauge, 12- and 16-gauge Model 12s became available in late 1913. A 28-gauge Model 12 was brought out in 1934. Sadly, this is the rarest of Model 12s, probably as a result of The Depression and the fact that the 28 gauge—as wonderful as it is—was the prerogative of those with a fair amount of discretionary cash, something sorely lacking during The Depression and World War II. In 1933 a completely scaled down version of the Model 12—the Model 42—came out in .410 bore.

Like most of the great Winchesters, the Model 12 had its ups and downs. During its heyday it was made in Field, Skeet, Trap, Tournament and Super Pigeon grades, the differences primarily being in grades of walnut and engraving. The Heavy Duck Gun was never marked as such. Rather, it was roll marked with “Super Speed and Super X.” These guns were chambered for 3″ magnum shells and debuted in 1935. Some were made with a solid rib; others had a vent rib, but most were plain barreled. A Featherweight model came out in 1961. Beginning in 1928 some Model 12s came from the factory with a Cutts Compensator, this feature was discontinued in 1954. Some were also equipped with the competing Polychoke.

While the majority of Model 12s were field guns, quite a few saw service in the military and law enforcement. Model 12 Trench Guns were produced on special order to the military in 1919. Riot gun versions—again on special order—came about in 1918 and were produced for the subsequent 45 years. All of these marshal shotguns were available in 12 gauge only.

For much of its production run the Model 12 was the repeating shotgun that all others were judged by. Its smooth operation and reliability remains legendary among knowledgeable shotgunners. The fact that it was more expensive than its competitors meant virtually nothing, but eventually it became the shotgun’s undoing. When Remington brought out its Model 870 in 1950, the Model 12 would start feeling its age. The Remington looked almost as good as the Model 12—aficionados can tell them apart in their sleep—and the upstart was as reliable and fast handling as the older Model 12. Post-war production costs were headed into the stratosphere. The increasing costs combined with market share loss put the Model 12 on the chopping block during the infamous 1964 reorganization of the Winchester product line. Customers and gun writers screamed like a calf being branded, but as a stock broker friend of mine once said, “Never underestimate the power of money.” The Model 12 as a production gun was finished.

A few Model 12s leaked out of the Custom Shop until 1980. Another limited run—more like a trickle—was done from 1993 until 2006 by Miroku for USRAC. But the notion that function is everything and form must conform to function, aesthetics be dammed has shoved aside the notion of elegance being a critical part of a sporting tool. Too, it has become more widely accepted that tools are consumable, and replacement is simply a part of doing business.

More than 2 million Model 12s were made, and that legend of smooth operation and durability has fueled some collector interest. Model 12s can be abused, left out in the elements, dropped, kicked or worse and still keep shooting. Given even minimal care, however, a Model 12 will outlast virtually any other pump-gun. If you can find one, a Model 12 is well worth the investment. I inherited mine from an old family friend who went to his reward about 25 years ago. With it I have shot some geese on Maryland’s Eastern Shore, the Mecca of waterfowling. I may not be doing as much waterfowling as I once did, but I can’t imagine being without a Model 12.

I’ve long dreamed of hunting in the mountains, spending days climbing, glassing, and stalking. This kind of trip has always seemed quite accessible to me, except for one aspect: getting the meat out of the woods. It would be impractical to expect to drag a deer back to the truck. Foolish, really, and out of the question with an elk. So that would mean quartering and packing the animal out. This is nothing to the hunter on horseback, or even one who is accustomed to doing it.

But here in Minnesota, it is rarely done. Dragging is the norm, and ATVs are often employed. It is unusual to ever be just too far from the road. With a western hunt or two nearing on the horizon, I have felt I needed practice- a trial run. Sure, I could study the process and know what to do, but I wouldn’t want to figure it out in the dark, on the side of a mountain, with a snowstorm coming. That would be truly foolish.

My Chance

So for the last couple seasons, I’ve been looking for an opportunity to try my hand at quartering a deer and packing it out by backpack. While I spend the opening weekend of deer season hunting with family on private land, I always try to plan other hunts to satisfy the need for meat and my need for adventure. This year’s hunt in the Mississippi riverbottoms of Houston County held much promise for taking a deer far from the road.

While I found myself over three and a half miles from the road at my farthest point, I ended up taking a nice buck about a mile and a quarter out. He was far too heavy to drag on the ground, so there was no choice but to follow through with my plan. Armed with a knife and a game bag from Koola Buck, I set myself to the task.

Halfway There

Now, when this is normally done, a person takes the quarters, loins, tenderloins, and other assorted meat from the skeleton, and leaves behind the spine and hide and as much extraneous mass as possible. The unique problem I faced on my hunt was that part about leaving the spine behind. I was hunting in the CWD Management Zone, where leaving the spine and brain material in the zone was mandatory. Dumpsters were provided so that hunters could leave that CWD-containing waste behind, to protect the rest of the state from contamination.

At home, I researched as much as I could to determine the overall legality of doing a conventional quartering job (leaving spine, hide, etc. in the field). I didn’t come up with much. A Conservation Officer might have been a good resource, but they are very busy that time of year. I hate to pester them needlessly. I figured that since the DNR didn’t want the spines contaminating the rest of the state, they wouldn’t want spines left behind in the field to potentially contaminate the environment. It seemed I might incur adverse legal attention if I didn’t take it with me. It also seemed a ridiculous notion to separate the spine/ribcage from the meat and then carry it out anyway. So I planned to remove and pack the rear quarters, and drag the remainder of the deer. I hate to do only half a job, but my choice was more or less made for me.

I still made two trips out- one with backpack, and one more to do the dragging. The game bag I used was more than roomy enough for those rear quarters, as large as they were. The straps on the outside of the Koola Buck quarter bag (not a standard feature on meat bags) made it easy to secure to my pack. Taking that much weight from the carcass made that buck more draggable, but only barely. The dragging portion took longer than I expected, and with many stops along the way. Though my backpack had been heavy, this impressed on me how much more efficient it would have been to pack the entire animal out– even in two trips. Facing even a moderate dragging job in the future, I might elect to quarter and pack.

Conclusions

Since I wound up doing the rest of the quartering job within the next couple hours (to fulfill the CWD zone requirements), I did the whole job yet that day. What I didn’t do was the actual carrying out of the front quarters, loins, etc. Frankly, that’s not a big gap in my overall experience- it doesn’t take much to imagine dropping them into a bag. I feel now I could not only do the job again, but I could do it faster and better. That’s a load off my mind.

The next step will be to get better at using my pack, so the load can ride optimally. This was the first time I had such a heavy load in it. Again, it’s not something you want to discover in the field.

The method for splitting an animal up into quarters may seem complicated, but it’s not. If you’ve ever processed your own deer, it was probably hanging in the air as you dismantled it. Quartering in the field is essentially the same, only on the ground. If you have no previous experience with any of it, just learn about the different cuts and how to separate them from the rest of the carcass. There are many online tutorials available.

Materials for this task are encouragingly minimal. A worthy backpack is required, so choose your pack for the day carefully. A good, sharp knife is necessary to get through all the skinning, separating of joints, etc. Meat bags round out the list, and the one from Koola Buck I used was great. It is rated for elk-sized needs, and just one could accommodate an entire whitetail (not that mine was light enough). Splitting the load into at least two meat bags is customary, so be sure to obtain an appropriate number of bags for your task.

Koola Buck bags like mine come in blood red, to hide the inevitable staining. After washing at home, mine was just like new again. It also proved to be tough as nails and I expect to be able to use it for years to come. After my experience with Koola Buck, I will be looking to obtain smaller sizes for deer and antelope hunts. I highly recommend these game bags to big game hunters everywhere.

Koola Buck also makes heavy-duty and antimicrobial meat bags. You can find them all at koolabuck.com.

Introduction: Crappie Fishing and the Length of Rods

I was recently down at the Cabelas near the house and happened to browse through the fishing rods as one does when in a Cabelas or a BassPro.

While being familiar with crappie fishing and having my favorite rods for various purposes in various lengths, I couldn’t help but notice the sheer numbers of rods and lengths available. I can only imagine how overwhelming it can be to try and select a fishing rod, especially if you are a beginning fisherman.

With that in mind we are going to discuss what the best crappie rod length is in a given situation and why you might want to select a different length. But let’s start with a quick answer, for what is the best crappie rod length, before we dive into the details.

The ideal length of a crappie rod is dependent on the style of fishing you intend to do. For shooting the docks and targeted casting a 6 foot rod is ideal. For crappie spider rigging and trolling then a 14 to 16 foot rod is the perfect choice. When ice fishing for crappie, select a rod that’s around 2 to 3 feet in length.

Now that the best lengths are out of the way, let’s discuss why these lengths are the best.

Length of Crappie Rods – Best Crappie Rod Length for Each Fishing Style

When looking for a crappie rod you can find lengths starting as small as 2 feet and ranging all the way up to 20 feet long.

This huge variance in rod lengths is due to the nuances of fishing and the different baits, presentations and conditions present during each style of fishing.

Length for Crappie General and Targeted Casting

For all around fishing in the most flexible conditions I feel that a rod between the lengths of 5 and 7 feet is ideal. Hence why I recommend a length of about 6 ft for targeted casting. Targeted casting includes working a bait along the shore line, targeting bushes and rocky outcroppings and of course shooting the docks.

A rod that is 6 feet long is small enough that you can control your cast, but still large enough to use it to control and lead the fish. Often it is necessary to guide the fish away from certain obstacles as you real it in, you will find they attempt to snag the line on anything they can once hooked.

Ideal Length of a Crappie Rod for Ice Fishing

When talking about ice fishing for crappie I mean on lakes that have a good solid ice layer over them. In these instances you are often going to be cutting a hole in the ice and fishing through that.

Since you are fishing straight down in these cases, there is relatively little need to have a long rod to properly position the bait and retrieve your fish.

For these reasons I recommend that you select a rod that is around 2 to 3 feet in length. Keep in mind that with this length of rod you need a limber rod with light action. (Quality rods should list their action rating.)

This lighter action will help to compensate for the pull when you set the hook.

Selecting a Rod Length for Spider Rigging and Trolling

Spider Rigging and Trolling style crappie fishing is where the big rods come out. Both of these techniques use the extremely long rods crappie fishing is known for.

While it is possible to spider rig with poles as short as 8 feet in length, this frequently results in tangled lines.

With many tournaments allowing as many as 8 rods, spider rigging and trolling both take advantage of this.

Rods are mounted along the front of a boat and fanned out in several directions from there, creating the appearance of spider legs reaching over the water.

Unless there is a lot of overhanging cover such as trees the longer a rod here the less chance that you will tangle your lines. Longer rods also allow you to cover more water if fishing above channels or drop offs under the surface.

Most professional crappie fishermen prefer a rod in the vicinity of 14 to 16 feet with it seeming that 16 feet rods are the most commonly seen in tournaments.

If you know what depths you intend to fish then you can set up your rods in the style of a cane pole. In these cases the rod has no reel, simply a line that is cut close to the same length as the pole. This has the advantage of allowing you to simply pick up the rod and the fish swings to you.

If you want to adjust the depths you’re fishing at though, make sure to select a crappie rod that has eyelets and a reel.

Weight Considerations For Length

While it may not be a factor you have considered, keep in mind that the longer the pole, the more it will weigh. For instance a 16 foot Lews Wally Marshall only weighs 9.6 ounces without a reel this feels like far more when it’s all held out in front of you.

I suggest that you hold the pole for a few minutes in the store to see how comfortable it is to do so. If after a relatively short period it causes pain in your wrists then you might want to go with a shorter rod.

1,2,3 Piece Rod or Collapsable How is Length Affected?

In years past sometimes your only option for longer rods was a two or 3 piece rod. Now it is not that uncommon to find 1 piece rods up to 8 feet in length.

When selecting a rod length for crappie fishing, make sure to consider not only the overall length of the rod when assembled, but also its transport length.

This becomes even more critical if you have extended travel times to reach the fishing hole. Two and three piece rods allow you to separate the pieces and reduce their overall length in that manner.

The downside to doing so with these rods is that frequently they are still rigged for fishing and if you are not careful they can easily get tangled.

Another option is telescoping rods. These rods are frequently made from fiberglass or other light weight material and feature sections that slide into each other. These come in both cane pole styles with no eyelets as well as styles designed for reels in which eyelets are positioned at each section.

One drawback is telescoping rods can rarely be found in lengths longer than 8 to 10 feet. This means you will need a 3 or even a four piece rod if looking for rods of that length.

There are mixed opinions on collapsing fishing rods, but I do feel they definitely have a place in my fishing gear.

My favorite telescoping rod is a 6’6” KastKing Blackhawk while it’s not the super long rod used for trolling, it makes an excellent all around and general casting rod to keep in the truck.

Conclusion:

To sum it up, while there is no “best” there are definitely use cases for a specific length of crappie fishing rod.

If you take nothing else from this post though, suffice it to say that for most teenage and adult anglers a 6 foot crappie rod featuring light or ultralight action is the way to go.

This length will get them started in the sport and present them with the largest selection of fishing styles. This length of crappie rod can be used for casting, spinning, fishing with a jig and shooting the docks, you can even fish a minnow under a bobber with no problems.

If you want to know more about selecting a rod length check out this article on rod lengths by age group. In the meantime, hit the water, catch a slab or two and enjoy the outdoors.

We all love our mobile phones, but we appreciate their limitations. While your phone could serve you well in the city, it might prove inadequate when you go to the wild, where mobile coverage is limited. In addition, most mobile phones cannot withstand the adversities of the elements — rain, ice, snow, and scorching sun could destroy your delicate mobile device.

When you have to operate in areas with inclement weather, the best way to keep in touch with family and friends is by using a walkie-talkie. Walkie-talkies are known for their hardiness. While some of these gadgets have limited features, others are created to stand up to the most adverse weather conditions — you’ll find walkie-talkies that operate perfectly in rainy and snowy conditions.

Some walkie-talkies have outstanding battery life and a great range. Moreover, with your handheld radio, you can talk to groups of people simultaneously. This is a matter not to be trivialized, as you can imagine what would happen if you went for a mountain adventure and then lost contact with a colleague — your walkie-talkie could be the only way to find out where the lost colleague is.

Today’s market is awash with thousands of different walkie-talkie brands and when you go shopping, you might be overwhelmed by the diverse choices. To help you make the best purchase decision, we have compiled the following list of the 6 best walkie-talkies you can buy today.

• Best Overall: Motorola Talkabout T800
• Best for Winter Activities: Backcountry Access BC Link 2.0
• Best Walkie-Talkies for Hunting: Midland X-talker T10
• Best Budget Option: Motorola T600
• Best Range: DEWALT DXFRS800
• Best-Looking Walkie-Talkie: Cobra ACXT645

Best Overall: Motorola Talkabout T800

When you go hiking or camping in remote areas with no cell phone coverage, the Motorola Talkabout T800 could be your best companion. The radio boasts a range of up to 35 miles and, depending on the terrain, this gadget will keep you connected when your cell phone fails.

Communication using the Motorola Talkabout T800 is clear and interference-free as the radio has 22 channels and 121 privacy codes. Its built-in flashlight makes it ideal for nighttime activities.

Moreover, the T800 is designed to be waterproof and dustproof, with an IPX4 rating, which means that it can withstand splashing water from any direction. The radio will come in handy during emergencies as it enables you to ask for emergency assistance using its emergency alert button.

The Motorola Talkabout T800 operates on FRS and GMRS frequencies and has a maximum power output of 2 watts. It also comes with a rechargeable battery that provides up to 10 hours of continuous use. Courtesy of its in-built Bluetooth feature, you can pair it with a smartphone, enabling you to communicate with your team even when they are out of range.

For a radio with a host of great features, the Motorola Talkabout T800 is also competitively priced. The price, together with its long battery life, high durability, and emergency features makes the Motorola Talkabout T800 the best overall walkie-talkie you can buy today.

Check out the Motorola Talkabout T800 on Amazon.

Best for Winter Activities: Backcountry Access BC Link 2.0

For lovers of backcountry skiing, the aptly named Backcountry Access BC Link 2.0 is the two-way radio to go for. With a six-mile range and operating on FRS and GMRS frequencies, the Backcountry Access BC Link 2.0 ensures clear and strong communication even in remote areas.

One of the most notable features of the BC Link 2.0 is its Smart Mic, which is equipped with push-to-talk functionality and allows users to control the radio without having to remove it from their packs. The device also has a large LCD display making it easy to read and navigate through the menu options.

Made for the harsh outdoors, the BC Link 2.0 has a waterproof rating of IP56 and its rugged construction means that it can handle drops and impacts without breaking down. It has a rechargeable lithium-ion battery that provides up to 12 hours of continuous use to help you stay connected through long trips.

For its durable construction and user-friendliness, the Backcountry Access BC Link 2.0 is one of the best walkie-talkies that you can buy today.

Check out the Backcountry Access BC Link 2.0 on Amazon.

Best Walkie-Talkies for Hunting: Midland X-talker T10

When you’re going hunting and are not certain about how the weather will behave, bringing the Midland X-talker T10 with you would be a great idea as the radio is designed to alert you about adverse weather conditions in your location.

It’s not surprising then that this radio is beloved by hunters and other outdoor enthusiasts who operate in areas of unpredictable weather. The X-talker T10 has 22 channels which allow users to communicate with others who are using the same channel.

Additionally, the radio has 38 privacy codes, which help to prevent interference from other radio users. Boasting a range of up to 20 miles, this radio is ideal for use in remote areas.

Its backlit display helps you operate optimally in low-light conditions, and its 26-hour battery life means that you can continue with your activities for a long time away from a power source. A reasonably priced product, the Midland X-talker T10 is also highly portable as it weighs a mere 3.9 ounces and stands 5.5 inches tall.

Check out the Midland X-talker T10 on Amazon.

Best Budget Option: Motorola T600

When you require a high-performing two-way radio at an affordable price, you can’t go wrong with the Motorola T600. Meant for outdoor enthusiasts, this is a durable and waterproof gadget that you could take with you for hiking, camping, or on construction sites.

The Motorola T600 has a range that can reach up to 35 miles, depending on the terrain and weather conditions. This makes it ideal for use in remote areas where cellular reception is not available. The radio comes with NOAA weather alerts, allowing users to stay updated on severe weather conditions in their area.

A highly durable product, the Motorola T600 is IP67 rated, meaning that it is waterproof and dustproof, making it ideal for use in all kinds of weather conditions. In addition, it has a built-in flashlight for use in emergencies.

The T600 also offers a number of other useful features, such as 22 channels, 121 privacy codes, and a keypad lock. The radio is compatible with other FRS/GMRS radios, making it easy to communicate with other users who may have different types of radios.

Priced at $98.99 on Amazon, the Motorola T600 is a budget product because it has features that you would normally expect to find in pricier radios. This makes it one of the best walkie-talkies you can buy today.

Check out the Motorola T600 on Amazon.

Best Range: DEWALT DXFRS800

One of the most outstanding features of the DEWALT DXFRS800 is its range. At about 300,000 square feet, this is one two-way radio that has an astounding range and, conditions allowing, would be ideal for large-scale projects.

The use of the DEWALT DXFRS800 ensures secure transmission thanks to its 22 preset channels and 121 privacy codes. The radio also features a bright backlit display and a keypad lock to prevent accidental button presses.

This walkie-talkie is a durable product that will withstand harsh conditions. It has an IP67 rating for water and dust resistance. It is also designed to meet MIL-STD 810 standards for shock resistance. This means that it can withstand drops and impacts without getting damaged.

The radio also comes with a belt clip and a rechargeable battery that can provide up to 18 hours of talk time. While it’s pricier than other two-way radios on the market, its long battery life, durability, and range make the DEWALT DXFRS800 a worthy investment.

Check out the DEWALT DXFRS800 on Amazon.

Best-Looking Walkie-Talkie: Cobra ACXT645

With Bluetooth connectivity, the Cobra ACXT645 is a two-way radio that can be connected to smartphones. This way, the walkie-talkies ease communication in remote areas. The radio has a GPS tracking mechanism to assist users who might be in distress. It’s, therefore, a great companion for outdoor activities in the wild.

It has a range of up to 35 miles, making it easy to communicate with others even in remote areas. The radio has 22 channels, including 10 NOAA weather channels that provide real-time weather information.

The radio’s weather alert function ensures that you are always aware of any severe weather conditions in your area. This is essential for outdoor activities. To help you continue activities in low-light conditions, the radio has a built-in LED flashlight.

The radio has a rugged and durable design and a water-resistant exterior to ward off light rain. Thanks to its in-built VOX feature, you can use the radio hands-free. This feature is particularly useful when you are engaged in activities that require your hands, like rock climbing.

In terms of battery life, the Cobra ACXT645 has a rechargeable battery that lasts for up to 12 hours. It also has a battery saver mode, which helps to conserve battery life when the radio is not in use.

The radio comes with a micro-USB charging cable that allows you to charge the battery easily. At 5.1 ounces and available in Black and Orange, this radio is both portable and quite good-looking.

Check out the Cobra ACXT645 on Amazon.

How to Pick the Best Walkie-Talkies: Step by Step

Given the vast diversity of features in the walkie-talkies available on the market today, there are some considerations to take into account to acquire a gadget that will serve you well. The most crucial factors to consider include:

Range

When you’re out hiking with friends, you need a handheld radio that covers a wide enough range to make sure that you stay in touch. While the figures advertised on some products tend to be rather huge (over twenty miles, for example), the reality on the ground is quite different.

Owing to obstructions from rocks, vegetation, and even weather changes, the range of your walkie-talkie could be highly limited. One sure way to increase the range of your gadget is to opt for a walkie-talkie with a long antenna.

While some of the gadgets with long antennas might have limited power, this might be the trade-off you could be forced to consider if the range is important for your activities.

Battery Life

When you’re engaging in activities that take you away from a power source, you want to have a walkie-talkie with substantial battery life. A gadget with a good battery might cost you a lot upfront but, in the long term, it saves you money since you will spend less on batteries.

While good battery life is important, if you end up with a walkie-talkie with limited battery life, you should consider investing in an alternative powering solution, such as a power bank or a solar panel, that you could take with you when you spend substantial time away from a power source.

Waterproofing

When you engage in activities in the wilderness, there is a very high chance that your walkie-talkie will be exposed to some form of a water hazard. For this reason, you want a gadget that’s fully waterproofed.

Waterproofing is a critical measure of a walkie-talkie’s durability and failure to obtain a gadget that meets this requirement might mean that you’ll need to replace your walkie-talkie sooner than you expected.

The best way to find out whether a walkie-talkie will meet the required durability requirements is by looking at its IP rating. Ideally, you should opt for a radio with a high IP rating.

Portability

While your walkie-talkie performs the critical function of keeping you in touch with colleagues and the outside world, its usefulness will be determined to a considerable degree by its portability. When a walkie-talkie is too heavy, moving around with it could prove inconvenient and tiring and it helps to invest in a lightweight gadget.

Sound Quality

There are organizations that use walkie-talkies to enable communication between groups of workers in different locations. Should that be the case, you want to ensure that the communication between the groups is perfectly clear by investing in gadgets with high sound quality.

And while your walkie-talkies could have been serving you well in the past, should you notice that they have lost their clarity, it might be time to conduct some maintenance. If your radios are not cleaned regularly, the speakers and microphones could be stuck with dust and debris, and cleaning them could improve communication.

What to Know Before Buying the Best Walkie-Talkies

Your walkie-talkie is an important investment that could serve you well for many years. For some organizations, normal operations might be greatly hampered without the use of these gadgets and this will adversely affect the organization’s bottom line.

Given the crucial role that these gadgets play, it’s important to realize that the walkie-talkies you buy will need regular maintenance if you want them to remain in tip-top condition for a long time. Neglected and abused, walkie-talkies break down prematurely, and depending on the number of gadgets you have, replacement costs could be crippling.

Before parting with your money for a walkie-talkie, it’s also important to note that there are countless brands on the market and that some have better reputations than others.

While products from the big brand names might look expensive, these are products that have been tried, tested, and trusted for generations and you’re therefore safer with products from companies such as Motorola, DeWalt, and the others we have reviewed above.

Using the Best Walkie-Talkies: What It’s Like

While the walkie-talkie is a crucial gadget, your experience with it will ultimately depend on how well you use it and how much routine maintenance you give it. Should you experience poor reception from your gadget, before seeking help from a technician, you first need to confirm that you’re positioning your walkie-talkie properly.

Are you, for instance, holding your gadget upright? When you try to communicate with a walkie-talkie that’s lying on a flat surface, you limit the radio’s signal; hence, the poor reception.

Damaged or improperly attached antennas could also distort communication. Should your troubleshooting efforts identify a broken antenna, replacing this critical part of the radio might be the only option. In many situations, walkie-talkies are life-saving gadgets.

When you’re out in the wild and can’t physically locate a colleague, this precious gadget could be your only hope. In some workplaces, people work alone. For the management to be confident that these workers are safe, they rely on walkie-talkies.

Two-way radios have advanced safety features that enable the lone worker to send emergency messages. Moreover, in an emergency, GPS tracking can be used to locate a missing person.

The image featured at the top of this post is ©Kabardins photo/Shutterstock.com.

Sea sponges are a type of marine animal that resembles a soft, porous sponge. Humans do not commonly eat them.

Though they are not food, They are instrumental in daily life. Also, they are helping nature by cleaning the oceans.

Can You Eat Sea Sponges

You can not eat Sea Sponges. Eating a sea sponge can be dangerous as they are not meant to be eaten. They are essential multi-celled animals made of silica (a glass-like material). They don’t have any brain, backbone, or nerves. Sea sponges are not plants; they are animals.

Even if someone tries it for dinner or as an adventure, it will taste like a spongy glass type. Taking them as food is regarded as a bad idea.

Although there are some uses of sea sponges in the household and for humans. We’ll talk about that later.

What Happens If You Eat Sponges

You should think again if you’re considering snacking on a sponge. While These ocean-dwelling creatures may look harmless, and it’s unlikely that eating a sponge will kill you, they can cause severe health problems if ingested.

Their cells contain toxins that can irritate your digestive system if you eat them.

Additionally, sea sponges are often full of sand and other debris that can damage your teeth or cause an intestinal blockage if swallowed.

Also, sea sponges are filter feeder that consumes small particles from the water around them. If you were to eat one of these sponges, it can cause gastrointestinal issues like nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea.

The sponges’ sharp edges can also damage your digestive tract, leading to bleeding and infection.

If you accidentally eat a sponge, drink plenty of fluids and see your doctor if you start experiencing any symptoms.

Benefits of Sea Sponges

Sea sponges are known for their absorbent properties. It means they can help remove dirt and oil from the skin, leaving it feeling clean and refreshed. They are also gentle on the skin, making them ideal for sensitive skin.

In addition to being absorbent, sea sponges are also exfoliating. This means that they can help remove dead skin cells from the skin’s surface, revealing healthier and smoother skin underneath.

On the other hand, if you’re looking for a natural way to clean your home, sea sponges can absorb excess oil and dirt from surfaces, making them ideal for cleaning kitchens and bathrooms.

They can also act as natural filters for your aquarium, helping to keep the water quality high and the environment healthy.

Additionally, sea sponges can help aerate your soil, making it more fertile and better able to support plant growth.

More recently, they have also been used in procedures such as wound healing and surgeries.

Key Facts About Sea Sponges

Sea sponges are among the simplest and most ancient animals on Earth. They first appeared in the fossil record about 600 million years ago. Sea sponges are thought to have evolved from a group of single-celled organisms called choanoflagellates.

Though they lack a centralized nervous system, they are capable of primitive responses to stimuli.

There are about 5,000 species of sea sponges. They come in various shapes and sizes, from small and round to large and tube-like. Sea sponges can be found in all oceans, ranging from the intertidal zone to over 8,000 meters (26,000 feet).

Though they may look soft and fragile, sea sponges are pretty strict. They have a complicated system of tiny pores and channels that allow them to filter water for food. Sea sponges also use these channels to pump water through their bodies for respiration.

Despite their simple appearance, sea sponges play an essential role in the ecosystem. They provide homes for many small creatures and help to clean the ocean waters.

Finally, their ability to regenerate lost body parts sets sea sponges apart from other animals. If a sponge is damaged or cut in half, it can regrow into two new sponges.

This fantastic ability has made them a valuable commodity both for scientific research and for use in medical treatments.

What Do Sea Sponges Eat

Most people know sea sponges are filter feeders, but what does that mean? Filter feeders strain food particles from water using specialized cells.

The most common type of food particle that sea sponges eat is microscopic algae called diatoms. Diatoms are single-celled algae with a hard shell made of silica.

Sea sponges can also eat other tiny organisms, such as bacteria and protozoans.

Sea sponges can extract nutrients from the water around them using several methods. One method is called suspension feeding.

It is when water is drawn into the sponge and pushed back out through tiny pores in its body. The pores are lined with special filter-feeding cells called choanocytes.

Are Sea Sponges Alive

Yes, sea sponges are alive. Although they lack some critical characteristics associated with other animals, such as a nervous system, brain, or muscles, they are still complex organisms with many of the exact basic needs as other animals.

They don’t move, they don’t eat, and they don’t seem to respond to their environment in any way. However, they are sensitive to their environment and can react to water temperature or quality changes.

It makes them an essential part of the ocean ecosystem. It helps scientists understand the health of the overall ocean environment.

Why Sea Sponges So Expensive

There are several reasons why sea sponges cost more than your average sponge. For one, they must be harvested from the ocean floor. It’s challenging, as divers must go deep into the water to find them. Once the sponges are collected, they must be carefully cleaned and dried before being sold.

Another reason sea sponges are more costly is because of their quality.

In addition, sea sponges are very slow-growing, so they can’t be harvested as quickly as other marine creatures, making them a limited resource.

Finally, sponges are delicate creatures that can be easily damaged, meaning there is often a lot of wastage when harvested. All of these factors contribute to the high cost of sea sponges.

People Also Ask

Conclusion

Sea Sponges are not a food source for humans. people should not eat them even for experimental purposes. we deeply researched sea sponges and ended up with some key findings.

1. Sea sponges are a type of animal that lives in the ocean.
2. They are not plants, even though they look like plants.
3. Sea sponges are mostly made of silica and they don’t have a brain or a nervous system.
4. Most sea sponges live attached to the ocean floor.
5. Sea sponges come in many different shapes and sizes, and they can be any color.
6. Some sea sponges are very small, but some can be pretty big.
7. Sea sponges eat by filter feeding, which means they pump water through their bodies to catch tiny food particles to eat.
8. They are very useful for human skin.
9. Also, they are an awesome choice for bathroom accessories.

Here are Some Interesting Fish FactsCan you eat bowfin fish?Can you eat sheepshead fish?

Visit foodjustify.com to discover more foods!

by Tom Gaylord, a.k.a. B.B. Pelletier

Part 1 Part 2 Secrets of loading the Benjamin Marauder magazine

Benjamin Marauder

Today, I’ll begin a look at accuracy for the Benjamin Marauder precharged pneumatic air rifle. If the Marauder was a normal PCP, this would be one quick report, but it isn’t. The owner has the ability to change not only the rifle’s power, but also the fill pressure the reservoir will accept. That makes testing a Marauder potentially complex if you want to try everything, and we certainly do want to do that here. So, today will just be a first look at potential accuracy, after which I’ll determine the shot count the rifle now gets with the best pellet, and then tune it to a preselected optimum range and test it again to see if the shot count increases. Neat, huh?

I know I’m going to shoot this rifle a lot, so I selected one of the best scopes I have — a CenterPoint 8-32x with parallax adjustment. The scope I chose is an old one from the time when Centerpoint was having Leapers make all their scopes. It’s no longer available, but a close equivalent would be this UTG scope.

Where to begin the test Oh, boy, where do I start? I thought it would be good to test a number of premium pellets and try to find 1 or 2 that stand out for accuracy. Then, I’ll concentrate on those pellets, which will help me focus on what has to be done.

I shot at 25 yards indoors because that’s the distance at which things start to happen. If a pellet is going to be accurate, 25 yards is usually far enough for it to stand out.

This is one time where 5-shot groups come in handy. I decided to shoot all the pellets I’d selected in 5-shot groups and see if 1 or more of them stood out as exceptionally accurate. Five-shot groups save time, pellets and air; and when you’re faced with testing 8 different pellets, as I was, it makes a big difference.

If there was no favorite pellet, I would just have to pick a couple pellets and proceed to work with them. But as it turned out, this rifle does have a favorite. When I show you how much better it is than the others, you will probably say what my wife, Edith said when she saw the groups. She couldn’t believe that 1 pellet was so much better than all the rest, and exclaimed, “Woohoo,” involuntarily.

Marauder’s noise level But before I get to that, when I walked into her office to show her the groups, Edith asked me what airgun I was testing because she couldn’t hear it. She thought it was some low-powered air pistol. And our female cat, who normally runs around the house complaining whenever I shoot, slept through the whole session. As it stands right now, the Marauder I’m testing is about as loud as a politician volunteering to do something proactive in a non-election year.

Pellets tested I selected the following pellets to test:

Crosman Premier 10.5-grain Crosman Premier 7.9-grain JSB Exact Heavy (10.34 grain) JSB Exact RS RWS Superdome Beeman Kodiak JSB Exact Monster JSB Exact Express

I did sight-in the rifle, but not so it would hit the center of the target because that would destroy the aim point. Nevertheless, a couple pellets did do just that. Fortunately, it was at the end of the 5 shots and no harm was done.

Average groups The Marauder is accurate no matter what pellets it shoots. It’s better with some pellets than others. Take a look at some of the 5-shot groups.

Five RWS Superdomes made this 0.528-inch group at 25 yards.

Five 10.3-grain JSB Exact Heavys made this 0.376-inch group at 25 yards. It’s better than the Superdomes, but still not great.

Five JSB Exact Monsters made this 0.316-inch group at 25 yards. It’s the second-best 5-shot group of the test.

Okay, I could live with the JSB Monster group, and there were a couple other pellets worthy of further examination if that was the best the Marauder was going to do. But it wasn’t. When I shot 5 Crosman Premier lites, the whole test changed.

Five Crosman Premier lites made this 0.139-inch group at 25 yards. It is hands-down the best 5-shot group of the test.

It should be obvious that Crosman Premier lites are the best pellet of those tested. On the basis of the 5-shot group, they’re twice as accurate as the next best pellet. Now, it was time to shoot a 10-shot group with them and see where that took us.

Ten Crosman Premier lites made this 0.285-inch group at 25 yards. This is exactly what I was looking for.

Obviously the 5-shot group was no fluke. This rifle really likes this pellet.

What’s next? Where do we go from here? First, I’m going to fill the rifle again to 3,000 psi and shoot nothing but Premier lites to determine the total shot count with the gun as it’s currently tuned. You may remember that we found this rifle was tuned to the max when we did the velocity test in Part 2. While that high speed obviously doesn’t hurt the accuracy of the Premier lite pellet, wouldn’t it be nice to get several extra shots from a fill and keep the same accuracy? The rifle currently shoots Premier lites at an average 1,015 f.p.s., and I think an average 900 f.p.s. will be just as good. That’s where I’ll be adjusting the rifle. Several of you have asked how the power is adjusted on the Marauder, so this will give me the opportunity to show how it’s done.

Then, I’ll count the total number of shots at that new velocity, and we’ll see what reducing the velocity gains, if anything. I’ll also test the accuracy at the new lower velocity to see if the rifle is still just as accurate.

After that, I plan to adjust the maximum fill pressure of the rifle. I’ll experiment with the rifle operating at a lower fill pressure while still getting the same velocity. This will be at the new velocity of around 900 f.p.s. We’ll see what benefits there are to having a lower fill pressure.

I do plan on shooting the Marauder at 50 yards, too, but that will come after all the adjustments have been made and evaluated. By then, we should know the test rifle very well and be able to tune it for the best performance. There’s a lot more in store for this rifle!

What’s that wild vine on tree? Are those grapes?! Wild grapes are closely related to table grapes and easy to identify for beginning foragers. In this post I’ll tell you everything you need to know about identifying, harvesting, and cooking with all their edible parts.

Wild grapes are the first wild fruit I ever picked, tasted, and really enjoyed cooking with. I first read about my local riverbank grape (Vitis riparia) that grow in the Midwest in the book The Forager’s Harvest by Samuel Thayer.

Wild Grape Vine Identification

This post focuses on Vitis riparia-the most common wild grape in North America. Vitis aestivalis, the summer grape, I see occasionally but is not as common. There’s many other plants in the grape family you might find, like the fox grape and Oregon grape. Any edible wild grape can be used as I describe here.

The plants appear as spreading, woody vines with heart-shaped, lobed leaves. They climb trees and other plants to photosynthesize. Once you know them, you’ll be able to spot them at a distance from anywhere.

Key ID Points

• The tough leaves have toothed edges with raised veins on the underside.
• Very young leaves are light yellow-green.
• Mature leaves are darker green. Each vine has small, young tendrils at the edge.
• Leaves can vary drastically in size with some varieties.
• The bark peels off in strips on the branches of older grape vines.

Wild Grape Look Alikes

There’s a few look alikes beginners should be aware of. The two most common I see are Canada moonseed and Virginia creeper. False grape (Ampelopsis sp.) is also a look alike but I don’t see it often, and it’s harmless if consumed on accident.

Canada Moonseed (Menispermum canadense)

Canada moonseed is also a vine, and could be mistaken for wild grapes at a distance. This is the only, real poisonous wild grape look alike I know of.

Canada Moonseed vs Wild Grape

Here’s a few key points on how to separate them from grapes:

Canada Moonseed:

• Lacks teeth on the leaf margins
• Is often noticeably paler green color, especially when young.
• The stems are thinner and more delicate than grape vines.
• Canada moonseed vines spiral around their support, while grapes do not.
• The fruit contains a single crescent-shaped seed. Grapes have round seeds.
• The fruit isn’t nearly as bountiful as grapes and doesn’t grow in tight clusters.

Virginia Creeper / Woodbine

Virginia creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia) is a common, aggressive growing vine. It’s the most common wild grape look alike I get messages about. The plant has palmately compound leaves made up of five serrated leaflets.

Virginia creeper fruit doesn’t grow in clusters like grapes. An easy way to separate it from grape plants is the berries fruit on red stems. The fruit tastes bad, but is harmless.

Habitat

Wild grapes grow just about anywhere. I see them creeping up yards and fences, climbing trees, and around the edges of forests. As the name implies (river grape) they also love to grow along rivers and streams.

My grandmother has a wild grape vine that has grown up her trellises on the side of their deck, and their friends come every year to pick the grapes and make wild grape wine.

When to Harvest Wild Grapes

Grape harvest season is generally around mid-late August, but my harvest plan begins much earlier. If you’re out foraging during the growing season, it’s easy to see where the grapes will be fruiting heavy. Make a note of spots you see during the year and come back when they’re ready.

When the grapes are ripe and deep purple (preferably without any unripe green grapes), cut off whole clusters with a scissors and put them in a box or other container.

I never bother to harvest grapes after a frost, as some recommend as, by the time the frosts come, our Midwest grapes will be dried out.

How to Make Wild Grape Juice

Once I bring the grapes home, I try to process them into juice quickly so they don’t dry out in the fridge. Here’s what I do:

Take the grapes, stems and all, making sure they’re clean and free of grit (taste a few to make sure and wash if you need/want) and put them in a large pot. Next, I mash the grapes up with a potato masher, mixing it around here and there to make sure I’m getting grapes from the bottom.

When the grapes are mashed up and juicy, I add some water, just enough to make sure that the grapes are completely covered by an inch or so of juice. The reason for the water is that wild grape juice is very thick, and a little extra liquid will make processing much easier-it will not dilute the strong flavor of your wild grape juice.

After the grapes are mashed up and I’ve added the water, I put the pot on the stove and allow it to get hot enough to steam. Don’t bring the pot to a boil, you just want to get it warm as it makes the juice relax and will help it go through a strainer, which will give you the highest yield possible.

I carefully dump the grape juice and skins into a colander in a large bowl, allow it to drain, then I remove the leftover skins and stems, allow them to cool until I can handle them, then wring out the juice.

Typically I use cheesecloth to wring out the juice, but you can do it by hand if you have to. This can be a messy process, and you’ll see in the video at the end of this post that I do it in a garage.

From here I strain the thick juice one more time through a fine strainer. The finished grape juice can be frozen, or processed into things like jelly or wild grape reduction, etc. You can use raw grape juice pressed from the fruit, but you’ll get a lot less juice, and it’s very strong.

Safety Note: Tartaric Acid

Wild grape juice isn’t something to drink as-is, since it’s very tart and thick. I can’t drink the juice raw at all, as my tongue is sensitive to it, and I know others that share my sensitivity.

The most important thing to know is the juice contains tartaric acid and calcium oxalate crystals that can cause loose bowels when consumed.

Thankfully it’s easy to remove the oxalate and tartaric acid as they settle to the bottom of the container after cooking and juicing. Let the juice settle overnight, then pour off the grape juice, discarding any sediment at the bottom.

What to Make with Wild Grapes

There’s lots of things you can do with your grape juice, as well as the edible grape leaves. Here’s a few examples.

Homemade Grape Vinegar

There’s still goodness left in those wild grape stems, skins and pits, and while you could pour some water over them, mix them up, and strain it to get a weak juice.

I prefer to use the leftover mash to make homemade vinegar that I use instead of red wine vinegar. It’s fantastic. See the full recipe with proportions for fruit scrap vinegar here.

A Red Wine Substitute

The finished juice is perfect for wine, jams and jellies, but there’s lots of other things you can do with it too. I use wild grape juice for all purpose cooking in recipes that call for red wine.

I also make a reduction from it you can use similarly to saba or balsamic vinegar reduction-a sort of wild grape molasses inspired by a traditional fruit juice reduction called pekmez from Turkey (typically made with mulberries).

Stuffed Grape Leaves

Wild grape leaves are essentially the same grape leaves sold in many stores, but it did take me a couple years and dating a Greek woman to figure it out.

Grape leaves should be harvested while you’re checking on grapes growing throughout the season. Once the grapes are ready, a lot of the leaves will be past-prime. I can collect hundreds of leaves from a single vine or two in an hour if I’m working quickly.

Fermented grape leaves are edible and fantastic for their most traditional use: stuffing. Since they’re tough, tannic and sour, you’re not going to be making a salad out of them, although I’ve had some preparations where the leaves are pickled or fermented and then cut into pieces and used in dishes.

Fermented grape leaves are traditionally used for stuffing (dolma, dolmathes, dolmades, etc) and it’s hard to find a better way to enjoy the leaves.

If you’ve ever had commercially pickled grape leaves, they can be very strong on the vinegar, and I know plenty of people that don’t care for them. Foraged grape leaves you pick yourself though, are a blank canvas for whatever flavor you like. See my recipe for fermented grape leaves.

Grape Tendrils

These are small, but fun if you have some grape vines growing in the house or around the backyard. The young, tender tendrils/tips of grape vines are nice and tart, and add a great taste to salads. Try them!

Wild Grape Jelly

Foraged grape jelly is one of the best you’ll ever have. It’s the grown up version of what you put on a peanut butter and jelly sandwich, but with a flavor beyond comparison of the watered-down jelly in stores. It’s easy to make, and I often don’t even use pectin as the seeds are naturally high in it.

Wild Grape Recipes

Wild Grape Reduction

Fermented Grape Leaves

Grape Leaves Stuffed with Fruit and Nuts

Bison Cooked in Wild Grape Juice

Goose Confit Glazed with Grape Reduction

Why Hunt Snow Geese without Decoys?

There are many good reasons to hunt snow geese without decoys, and there are several situations where you might have to. For example, if they are moving around in one big group, if you don’t have access to the field they are feeding in, or if you have limited hunting time, it may make more sense to set up a quick pass shoot rather than to decoy the birds.

There may be other practical reasons: if snow geese are destroying wheat crops, which could lead to ecological imbalance, or if you’re attempting to harvest as many snow geese as possible because their population is too high. Whether the reasons are practical or necessary, there are several effective ways to harvest snow geese, such as pass shooting, using a cow board, or sneaking. These eight essential snow geese hunting tips can save you money by helping you hunt without decoys.

8 Tips for Hunting Snow Geese Without Decoys

Find Exact Location

The most important variable in hunting snow geese is location. Considerable effort is required to scout them and understand their migratory patterns to locate their feeding, watering, and roosting areas, as they can migrate a remarkable distance within a short period of time.

Therefore, time is of the essence, and scouting will help you make the best use of the time you have. The more critical time is, the less time you can attribute to setting up decoys. Time is better spent making sure you know the exact location of the geese than trying to lure them somewhere.

Take Cover

When scouting, you should also be thinking of spots to conceal yourself effectively. Hide among the trees and woodland in the areas geese land to feed so they can’t see you and refrain from moving as much as possible to not startle them.

Fence lines can also give you some cover to hide. You can also try lying down in weeds in a field and using the ground as camouflage. Don’t startle the geese by jumping the gun. You’ll probably have to lay still for a while, so be patient.

Clothing

When it comes to blending in, you’ll want to wear appropriate clothing that matches the natural background. Wear the colors of the area you’ve scouted and find a comfortable position. There are also many professional layout blinds available designed specifically for hunting geese that you can choose from.

Pass Shooting

Now that you’ve done the basics, it’s time to consider various methods of hunting snow geese without decoys. Pass shooting is among the most popular and obvious. It is a relatively inexpensive method that allows the Geese to pass by an area you have already scouted.

After they arrive, target one or two geese in one group and shoot once or twice when they’re in range while the other group is further away. It’s critical that the second group maintains its usual patterns, so be sparing at first. This will help to increase the number of snow geese you can bag.

Use a Cow Board

Instead of decoys, you can use a cow board, which may seem a bit odd at first but is inexpensive and gives the geese the impression that they’re landing in a normal field devoid of humans. You will need to be a quick shot, however, as you’ll need to move it realistically so the geese don’t understand it’s fake, and be ready to shoot when a bird is in range within about 50 yards.

Sneaking

Sneaking takes some practice but is another effective method once you know how to do it. Naturally, sneaking works best during high harvest in the late season where you can hide more easily, and again you should take pains not to move too much by crawling slowly and making as little noise as possible. Target the geese at the edge of the flock closest to you, and shoot when you feel like you are close but not yet noticed.

Jump Hunting

Jump hunting involves traveling around and looking for flocks of snow geese already feeding in fields. If you have the requisite permission to hunt in the area, you can use the element of surprise to sprint out into the field and shoot as many of them as possible before they get away. First, though, you’ll want to get as close to them as possible by using the stealth methods described above.

Capture Their Attention

You can simulate geese calls from your hiding place, either by training your voice to emit sounds like theirs or, probably more easily, by using pre-recorded sounds and an amplification device. In your scouting and study of snow geese patterns, learn a comprehensive range of geese sounds.

For example, they cluck when they are excited, murmur when they are looking to feed, and honk when they are relaxed. So make calls, or use recordings, that correspond to where you need them to be: cluck when they are at a distance, and murmur when they are heading in your direction.

A Successful Snow Geese Hunt Without Decoys

You can use a combination of any of the methods above, or all of them, for a successful snow geese hunt, though some, such as capturing their attention, will take more practice than others.

Some of the tips are inexorable: you will not be able to bag snow geese without doing the necessary scouting and concealing yourself adequately before discharging your weapon.

The Benefits of Snow Geese Hunting without Decoys

Not using decoys when snow geese hunting is straightforward and easy to learn and can also result in good fun. If you want to save money, save time, or have a reason to eliminate snow geese as quickly as possible, you can easily circumvent the need to use decoys. All it takes is a little practice and patience.

You can also check:

Great Benefits of Hunting Activity

Air Rifles for Small Game (Buying Guide)

How to Start Hunting

Tips to Keep Your Feet Warm During Hunting (Read Article)

Trout fishing is enjoyed by Pacific Northwesterners in every corner of our region, and I have put together a list of my personal favorite best trout fishing lures for you. Some of these are available everywhere, some of these are up and comers, but all of them are effective trout lures. Although I live and fish mainly in Washington State, I have travelled to Oregon, Idaho, Northern California and Montana in search of great trout fishing, and it’s helped me put together this Greatest Hits of Trout Fishing.

Washington, Oregon, Idaho, Montana and California Trout Fishing

The lakes and rivers of the Pacific Northwest provide us with great trout fishing options. You may be headed to a suburban lake in Washington State that has been recently stocked with Rainbow Trout. Maybe you want to head to Central Oregon’s Lakes and fish for a trophy Brown Trout. Idaho and Montana have some of the most beautiful lakes with world-class trout fishing. And don’t forget about California’s epic river and lake trout fishing. While each region has it’s own unique lures and favorite riggings, there are a number of lures that you can’t go wrong with, regardless of where in our beautiful region you plan on trout fishing.

Casting Lures for Trout Fishing

I have spent many hours casting from shore for trout, and have a few favorite trout fishing lures to recommend. Being able to cast a distance is an important factor in shore fishing success. You can accomplish a longer distance cast by using lighter and thinner line, a heavier lure, or both. I prefer 4 pound to 6 pound line for most scenarios where I am trout fishing from shore.

The challenge is finding that perfect lure for the spot you are fishing. You can go with the heaviest lure in your tackle box, but then again it may be too large for the trout in the lake, or it may snag bottom once you are reeling it in, near the shore. The struggle is real! But have no fear, start out with any of these trout lures in the recommended sizes and you will be well on your way!

Also, keep in mind that any of these would make a fine lure to fish from a boat, whether trolling or casting.

Kastmaster Spoon

The Acme Kastmaster Spoon is one of my go-to trout lures for rivers and lakes. Ever since that childhood trip to my Uncle’s Montana ranch, where we fished Kastmaster’s (among others) on the ranch’s lake, I have always had a good time fishing these. There is just something about the action and finish that is a major trout attractor. My favorite sizes are 1/8 and 1/4 ounce. However, they offer some smaller sizes that are more appropriate for alpine lake fishing where the forage is usually smaller.

Roostertail Spinner

The Roostertail Spinner is one of the most universal trout lures in my tackle box. I have caught some really nice trout out of my local streams, lowland lakes as well as up in the high-country. Stick with the 1/16th to 1/8th ounce sizes. I really like a black with silver blade, the rainbow trout, or the frog patterns, but these come in too many fishy colors to mention!

Vibrax Spinner

While the Vibrax Spinner is best known for catching larger fish, it also works really well for trout, in it’s smallest sizes. I really do prefer the Size 0, 1 and 2 Vibrax Spinners for trout fishing, but a Size 3 might just catch you your personal best! Blue Fox Vibrax Spinner – View on Amazon

Mepps Spinner

Mepps Aglia Spinners have been available for a long time, and generations of anglers have caught trout on them across the West. In my home state of Washington, I always carry a few Size 1 or 2 Aglias when I’m backpacking to an alpine lake in the Cascades or Olympics.

Panther Martin Spinner

The Panther Martin Spinner very well may be the most recognizable trout lure ever made! Their simple inline spinner design is a very effective trout catcher. I love fishing Panther Martin Spinners for trout!Panther Martin Spinners – View on Amazon

Trolling Lures for Trout Fishing

The Pacific Northwest has such a wide range of fishable bodies of water where you can catch trout, often times a boat can help you be more effective. If you are fishing from a boat, all these lures are on the top of my list. Most of them have a great action because they are made of lightweight materials, and although they are not designed to be the best casting lures, if you troll them they can give you a rewarding day of trout fishing.

Wedding Ring Lure

When I was a kid, I went to Oregon with a friend’s family and we ended up at their cabin on the local lake’s trout opener. This was the first time I saw the awesome fish catching ability of the Wedding Ring. We couldn’t keep the Rainbow Trout off the standard red-bodied and silver-blade Wedding Ring. Over the years I have collected dozens of Wedding Ring colors and think it makes it to the top of my trout fishing lures if you are trolling. They work great bare, but if you can tip the hook with a kernel of corn you have a Kokanee/Trout killer, tip it with a worm and the Rainbows and Cutthroat won’t be able to resist! You can cut the hook off and replace it with a small fly if you want to change it up.Mack’s Wedding Ring – View on Amazon

Needlefish Spoon

Luhr Jensen’s Needlefish is a great trolling lure for trout. This thin metal spoon fishes well if you troll it behind a dodger or bare. I usually use these in larger lakes off a downrigger, but there is no reason they wouldn’t be effective on a small lake stocked recently with Rainbow Trout.

God’s Tooth Spoon

The God’s Tooth Spoon is the newest addition to my trout fishing tackle box. They have gained recent fame on the lakes surrounding my home near Seattle, and sure are effective! I troll these for Cutthroat Trout in Lake Washington, and Kokanee in other Seattle area lakes with pretty good results. As you can see, I prefer the 50/50 Silver/Gold and the Orange, but there are a number of other good looking colors I am eager to try out.Elgin God’s Tooth Spoon – View on Amazon

Dick Nite Spoon

This small lure has gained fame in Washington and Oregon as a great lure for Trout, Kokanee and even Salmon! The Dick Nite Spoon in Size 1 or 2 will work great in any trout boat fishing situation. Dick Nite Spoon – View on Bass Pro

Flicker Shad

I discovered Berkley’s Flicker Shad trout lures when I was looking for advice on fishing some of Washington’s larger lake systems. A friend suggested this one, because it does a great job of imitating salmon smolt and other forage fish, which Cutthroat and Rainbow Trout will gobble up. It immediately became one of my regular deployments whenever I was fishing on a lake with any salmon returns. Lots of great colors, but my favorite is the Silver/Black Back.Berkley Flicker Shad – View on Amazon

Hot Shot

Luhr Jensen Hot Shot’s are one of the original trout fishing plugs. Some of my very earliest fishing memories were of trolling around on the lake for trout with these. To this day, I always keep a few Hot Shot in Size 50, 60, 70 ready to go! They are best trolled slowly, and they have a very effective wiggle and dive that triggers an aggressive bite. Luhr Jensen Hot Shot – View on Amazon

Mag Lip 2.0 and 2.5

Yakima Bait Company’s newest trout fishing product is the Mag Lip Plug in the 2.0 and 2.5 sizes. This local Washington State company offers a really good assortment of color patterns for trout fishing. I prefer the Metallic Perch, Orange, Craw, Black Glitter and the Frog as my best colors. Make sure you have a few of these if you plan on fishing for trout out of a boat. Yakima Baits Mag Lip – View on Bass Pro

Original Rapala

The Rapala Original floaters are a great trout trolling lure. Attach a small plug snap to the end of your leader to give it a little more action. I prefer to flat-line troll these in smaller lakes. If I am fishing a larger body of water I may troll these off my downrigger as well. My preferred sizes are Size 3, 5 and 7 for starters. Rapala Original Floating – View on Amazon

Jointed Rapala

While the Original Rapala is one of the most widely recognized fishing lures in the entire world, the Jointed Rapala also gains a spot of my best trout fishing lures list. I think I might even prefer it to the Original. The joint gives this lure a unique action unmatched by any other lure on the list. For lakes from Idaho to Oregon and everywhere else in the Pacific Northwest, I’d recommend you start with a Size J-05 or J-07 and go larger if you are hunting for trophy trout.Rapala Jointed – View on Amazon

Trout Fishing Success!

Wherever you go trout fishing, there are bound to be locals. And some of these locals happed to be phenomenal anglers. Those proud few are usually most successful due to the time and effort they put in. If you go to a lake for the first time, it may seem a little challenging to find that perfect technique, lure set-up, troll speed, or location. But just remember that each day is a success, regardless of how many trout you have on the scoreboard. Every day on the water is a blessing, and also provides us with the benefit of another day of experience. If you aren’t already, you will be a great fisher with a little time invested. Good luck out there!

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