If you’ve just bought your first air rifle, you might be wondering if you should get a scope specifically for it or if you can just use a rifle scope you already have in your workshop.

When picking out a scope for your air rifle, there are many considerations, such as zoom level, optic quality, objective lens size, and the mounting system.

Shooting Mystery has the answer to the most commonly asked questions about air rifle scopes and compares them directly to regular rifle scopes in terms of their effectiveness and durability.

Can You Use a Rifle Scope on an Air Rifle?

No, you cannot and should not use a regular rifle scope on your air rifle. Doing so might actually break the rifle scope beyond repair.

Standard rifles fire bullets out of the barrel through pressure from ignited gasses inside the bullet. This combustion causes the familiar backward recoil you feel after pulling the trigger.

On the other hand, air rifles fire using a different method that gives it recoil that moves forward after the initial backward-moving recoil. This movement is something standard rifle scopes aren’t designed for.

This is why the inner assembly on your rifle scope will break if you use it on an air rifle scope. It’s just not designed to be used with that weapon system or handle the forward recoil it creates.

=> Read more 7 Things To Look for When Buying Your First Scope for Your Air Rifle

Things to Look For in an Air Rifle Scope

Instead of using regular rifle scopes, you should pick out a dedicated air rifle scope that’s designed to handle the recoil from the weapon.

Here are the essential things to consider when picking out an air rifle scope.

Zoom Level

There are two main types of air rifle scopes – fixed magnification and variable magnification scopes. Fixed zoom scopes are stuck on only one zoom level.

Zoom is the main feature that explains how a telescopic sight works. It allows a shooter to see at longer fixed ranges and hit a target effectively.

Meanwhile, variable zoom scopes are much more versatile because you can switch between magnification levels, such as zooming in from 3x to 15x. This is helpful when aiming at varying distances.

However, this can make the scope heavier than fixed zoom alternatives. You’ll also have to make more adjustments and re-zero the scope more often than fixed zoom scopes.

Optic Quality

An air rifle scope can have as many zoom levels as needed, but if the actual optical glass quality is poor, your shooting performance will still suffer.

You should get an air rifle scope that is clear and scratch and glare resistant. Despite the added cost, other features, like being fog-proof and waterproof, are also worth considering.

Variable scopes might have different optic lens qualities depending on the zoom level. Check reviews of the specific scope to see if the sight image quality drops when you zoom in.

Recoil Management

Some air rifles are very powerful, producing noticeable forward-jerking recoil. This can hurt or even destroy the scope if you’re not careful.

Thankfully, rifle scopes made explicitly for air rifles can easily withstand the forward recoil. Just don’t go buying cheaper, standard rifle scopes for your air rifle.

Check the product details and reviews to see if the scope is designed to be used on air rifles. If there’s no information, it’s best to pick another option.

Objective Lens Size

The objective lens size is significant in how an air rifle scope functions. The main reason to get a rifle with a smaller objective lens is that it’s more portable and generally lighter, making it a better fit for a lower-caliber air rifle.

On the other hand, getting a larger objective lens can have the crucial benefit of letting in more light into the scope. This allows you to see clearer in low-light situations.

Purchasing a scope with a larger objective lens size (40-50mm) is recommended if you regularly shoot at dawn or dusk.

Mounting System

This is how your scope optic will be attached to your air rifle. There are two main types of mounting systems: one-piece and two-piece.

Two-piece mounts are fine for most rifles and can be easier to install and take off. They’re also cheaper than one-piece mounts.

However, getting a one-piece mount is your best bet if you have an air rifle with a lot more power. These mounts are a lot better at handling recoil than two-piece mounts.

You should also get a higher mount for larger scopes and standard-sized ones for scopes that aren’t as big. This is directly connected to objective lens size. The larger the lens, the larger the mount needed.

Benefits of Using a Scope on an Air Rifle

• Makes you more accurate
• Variable zoom is idle for hitting targets at unique distances
• Decreases eye strain versus looking through iron sights
• Increases the effective range of your air rifle
• Large objective lens scopes help shooters see in low light

Disadvantages of Using a Scope on an Air Rifle

• Adds weight to your air rifle
• Added expense for the shooter

Frequently Asked Questions

After learning more about air rifle scopes, you might have other questions about how they work. Here are the answers to the most commonly asked questions.

What’s the Best Magnification Level for an Air Rifle Scope?

The ideal magnification range for an air rifle scope is between 1x and 16x. Whether you get a fixed or variable zoom scope is up to you and your shooting preferences.

Getting a scope with a higher zoom level than 16x might not be worth it because the range on air rifles isn’t as far as on conventional rifles.

PRO TIP: If you’d like to survey your surroundings and keep an eye on elusive game, consider getting a drone with a camera to act as a scout or overwatch. 

What Is a Good FPS for an Air Rifle?

Most shooters prefer a “feet per second” (FPS) count of between 600 and 900 FPS for air rifles. This is ideal for accuracy while maintaining a decent pellet size.

Handguns using the same firing technology usually have a lower FPS count because of the shorter barrel and less robust and weaker firing mechanism.

Final Thoughts

You might be tempted to save a few bucks by sticking an unused conventional rifle scope onto your air rifle. You shouldn’t do this because it might break the optic.

There are plenty of excellent air rifle scopes out there that are designed to take the forward recoil and have all the great features that you love on conventional rifle scopes.

The crucial thing to remember is that optical quality, zoom level, recoil management, mounting, and objective lens must meet your needs and that of your air rifle.

The Googan Squad Fishing line is finally here! – Cast further, fish longer, and feel more confident in every cast you take knowing that you’re spooled up with the best line in the biz created by the legendary Googan Squad.Our team, the Googan Squad, and a high-end line manufacturer worked tirelessly to create what is possibly the best-valued fishing line on the market today. Learn how, when, and, why to effectively fish with all three types of the Googan Squad Fishing Line.

Googan Squad 8x Braided Line

15lb – Great for finesse tactics – shaky heads, drop shot, small swimbaits. Can be used to catch panfish, walleye, and great for trolling30lb – Best for walk-the-dog topwaters, swim jigs and chatterbaits. Can also be used for trolling50lb – Ideal for flippin’, froggin’, and big game fishin’BUY GOOGAN SQUAD 8X BRAID

The silky smooth Googan Braided Line is comprised of 8 strands of high-quality Dyneema fibers. All braided line is made up of small individual strands that are woven together tightly to produce a strong, dependable fishing line. Standard braid usually consists of 4 strands while the Googan Squad Line is made up of 8 strands. The added strands help make each spool of line smoother, stronger, and easier to manage.

Googan Squad Flurocarbon

8lb – Excels for shaky head and jerkbait bass fishing. Useful as a leader when fishing with braided line. Also a solid option for walleye fishing.12lb – All around solid line. Good for crankbaits, spinnerbaits, bladed jigs, Texas rigs and Carolina rigs.15lb – Perfect when fishing the same baits as above, but around hard cover and/or vegetation. Also better when flipping jigs.BUY GOOGAN SQUAD FLUOROCARBON

Fluorocarbon line and bass fishing go together like Flair and small fish or like Jon B and dope beats. If you’re going to be a bass angler you’re going to need a few spools of Fluoro. So, why not rig up with high quality, long-lasting line that helps you support the Googans? Catch bigguns and fish like a Googan all day long with this legendary Fluorocarbon.

Googan Squad Monofilament

6lb – Great for panfish and trout. Excels on smaller size spinning reels. Perfect for float fishing, spinners, small cranks, and live bait. Ultralight techniques.8lb – All around solid line. Great for multi-species angling. Strong enough for small Texas rigs, small enough for float fishing and other light options.12lb – Great option for pond fishing. Texas rigs, soft plastic jerkbaits, poppers, jigs, and lots of other typical bass fishing techniques.BUY GOOGAN SQUAD MONOFILAMENT

Start catching more mondos with the Googan Squad mono! The affordable and versatile monofilament line is ideal for any bass or multi-species angler. The added stretch from monofilament helps absorb the shock while fighting a fish which makes the Googan Squad Monofilament a solid choice when fishing any treble hook baits.In addition to being deadly for largiesand smallies, this monofilament will help you fool trout, walleye, panfish and more. Available in 3 lines sizes, the Googan Squad Monofilament is the best value of all the three line options. Each spool holds 330 yards which should be enough to fill 2-3 of your reels.

Googan Squad Line FAQ:

Why Did The Googan Squad Create Their Own Line?The Googans and the Catch Co wanted a high-end fishing line that they could fish with but also put their name behind and bring to market. After countless hours of product development, both teams landed on a truly special product, resulting in Googan Squad Fishing Line.Why Is

This ground beef jerky is a mouthwatering option for those looking for traditional beef jerky flavor with a softer, easier-to-chew texture.

This is a great snack option for sensitive chewers such as kids or older folks.

This tender beef jerky recipe has the classic components of delicious beef jerky – a robust medley of savory spices, a touch of sweetness, and a hint of heat for perfect balance.

Chopped and formed jerky has a bad reputation as low-quality, commercial jerky producers see a ground product as an opportunity to use cheap meat and artificial ingredients. By making ground beef jerky at home, you have complete control over the type of meat and ingredients.

For example, if you have a soy aversion or eat gluten free, you can use coconut aminos instead of soy sauce. Like things spicy? Feel free to add cayenne pepper for some kick.

The protein source for this recipe uses beef, but you can easily adapt the recipe for other protein sources such as ground venison, ground pork, ground elk, ground turkey, and ground chicken. You can even grind your own meat for the recipe.

The key, regardless of the protein source, is to use lean meat. There are two important reasons to use lean meat. First, if the meat is too fatty, the finished ground jerky will fail to bind and crumble after cooking. Secondly, excess fat can turn rancid and develop “off” smells and colors. This is why we always recommend trimming as much exterior fat from whole-muscle jerky. Learn more in our guide to slicing meat for jerky.

Pro-Tip: When working with beef, opt for a minimum ratio of 90% lean to 10% fat (or higher). You can easily find these numbers of the ground beef packaging in supermarkets and stores.

The forming step is the most important step when making ground jerky. You have two primary options for making ground beef jerky—formed by hand and using a jerky gun. This recipe will provide instructions for both.

Looking to spice up your ground beef jerky game? Check out our beef jerky seasoning blends (Coming Soon! Sign-Up For Early Access). We conducted hundreds of batches to find the perfect all-in-one jerky seasonings. Our seasonings are perfect for ground beef jerky.

Let’s dive into the best ground beef jerky recipe.

Follow these step-by-step instructions to make the most delicious ground beef jerky.

1. Mix the ingredients with the meat.

The beauty of making ground beef jerky is you do not have to marinate the meat. This will save you between 16 and 24 hours, the typical marination type of whole-muscle beef jerky. Learn more about how long to marinate beef jerky (for traditional, whole beef jerky).

When working with ground beef jerky, fully mixing the ingredients with the meat will infuse the full flavor.

Start by mixing the dry seasonings and liquid ingredients in a large mixing bowl. Then add the meat to the mixture. Make sure to fully integrate the mixture.

Pro-Tip: Mixing the non-meat ingredients first will better distribute the flavor throughout the beef. Take your time with the mixing step to ensure that the flavor is evenly distributed throughout the meat.

2. Form the ground meat into strips.

This is where the magic happens. You have two options to form the ground meat into strips: using a jerky gun or forming the strips by hand.

Jerky Gun or Jerky Cannon

A jerky gun is a terrific tool to make ground beef jerky.

Also known as a jerky cannon, this jerky-making appliance compresses and extrudes ground meat into even strips. Think of a caulking gun but for jerky.

There are two advantages to using a jerky gun. First, you can achieve long, even strips. Each strip will have the same thickness which makes the cooking step a breeze. Secondly, most jerky guns come with a variety of nozzles so you can create a range of shapes including beef sticks.

Fill the chamber of the jerky gun with the ground meat, select your desired nozzle, and press the trigger to create long, even strips on your dehydrator racks. It’s as simple as that.

Have a pair of scissors or knife handy to trim the meat when you’ve completed a strip. You can also use your fingers to pinch the meat.

Pro-Tip: Make sure to pack the meat tightly so there are no air pockets. These air pockets will prevent the meat from extruding as a combined unit in long strips. Don’t worry, the jerky guns are very forgiving.

Want to buy your own jerky gun? Learn more about the best jerky guns on the market.

Forming Ground Jerky By Hand

If you don’t have a jerky gun or prefer to make ground beef jerky by hand. Here’s a quick and easy trick that will guarantee even strips of the same thickness.

Place the meat onto a sheet pan lined with parchment paper. Place another piece of parchment paper on top of the meat. Use a combination of your hands, a rolling pin, and a large spoon to flatten the meat to an even thickness of ¼ thick.

Once the meat is spread evenly on the sheet pan, cut long strips with a knife or pizza cutter. Don’t worry if the scores do not cut all the way through the meat. As the jerky dries, it will separate and break easily.

Carefully remove the top piece of parchment paper and place your drying rack on top of the meat. With your hand on the drying rack, invert the sheet pan. Remove the sheet pan and the other piece of parchment paper. Simply place the drying rack with the meat on top back into the sheet pan and you’re ready to start cooking.

3. Cook the ground beef jerky.

You can cook your ground beef jerky in an oven, dehydrator, or even a smoker. The cook time will vary from device to device and even batch to batch. We recommend using a dehydrator for making any type of beef jerky at home as it delivers the most consistent results. We use the 9-Tray Excalibur Dehydrator Machine in our Test Kitchen.

Learn more about the best dehydrators for beef jerky.

Here are rough cooking guidelines for ground beef jerky.

Device

Temperature

Time

Oven

165°F -175°F

2.5 – 4.5 Hours

Dehydrator

165°F

3 – 4.5 hours

Smoker

160°F – 170°F

2.5 – 3 hours

To make sure your ground beef jerky is fully cooked, make sure to use the following signs:

• The internal temperature of the meat should be at 165°F. If you maintain the oven temperature for the minimum times recommended above and are working with strips around ¼”, the meat will be fully cooked. We’re checking for dryness at this stage.
• The meat should bend and break without falling apart or crumbling.
• The color should be a rich, brownish red.

Here’s our deep dive into how to tell if beef jerky is done.

5. Cool and enjoy!

There’s nothing better than warm, homemade jerky fresh out of the oven. Steal a few pieces and enjoy. Let the rest cool before storing.

We recommend storing the ground beef jerky in the refrigerator in an airtight container and consuming it within 1 week.

All zones of the Fortymile Caribou hunts are subject to openings and closings on short notice. Call the Fortymile hotline at (907) 267-2310 for information before departing for the field.

Fortymile Caribou Hotline (907) 267-2310

Fortymile Caribou Zones

Zone 1

Access in these portions of Units 20B and 25C is generally via Chena Hot Springs Road and the Steese Highway.

The Zone 1 portion of the hunt will be closed by Emergency Order if this zone’s harvest quota is reached.

Zone 1 Description

Unit 20B, that portion within the Chatanika River drainage north and east of the Steese Highway, and that portion south and east of the Steese Highway, except the Middle (East) Fork of the Chena River drainage upstream from and including the Teuchet Creek drainage and except the Salcha River drainage.

Unit 25C, that portion east of the east bank of the mainstem of Preacher Creek to its confluence with American Creek, then east of the east bank of American Creek, excluding that portion within the drainage of the south fork of Birch Creek and excluding that portion within the Yukon-Charley Rivers National Preserve.

Zone 2

Access is difficult. Hunters generally fly in or boat up the Goodpaster or Salcha Rivers.

The Zone 2 portion of the hunt will be closed by Emergency Order if this zone’s harvest quota is reached.

Zone 2 Description

Unit 20B, that portion south and east of the Steese Highway within the Middle (East) Fork of the Chena River drainage upstream from and including the Teuchet Creek drainage and the Salcha River drainage.

Unit 20D, that portion north of the south bank of the Tanana River.

Unit 20E, that portion within the Charley River drainage, the Seventymile River drainage upstream from and including the Granite Creek drainage, the North Fork Fortymile River drainage upstream from, but not including the Champion Creek drainage, the Middle Fork Fortymile River drainage upstream from and including the Joseph Creek drainage, the Mosquito Fork of the Fortymile River drainage upstream from and including the Wolf Creek drainage, and the drainages flowing into the Yukon River downstream from the confluence of the Seventymile and Yukon Rivers.

Unit 25C, that portion within the drainage of South Fork Birch Creek and that portion within the Yukon-Charley Rivers National Preserve.

Zone 3

Access is generally via the Taylor Highway and the Fortymile River and its tributaries.

The Zone 3 portion of the hunt will be closed by Emergency Order if this zone’s harvest quota is reached.

Zone 3 Description

Zone 3; Unit 20E, remainder (the road and trail accessible portion of the herd’s range in the vicinity of the Taylor Highway).

Zone 4

Access in these portions of Units 20B, 20F and 25C is generally via the Elliott and Dalton Highways.

The Zone 4 portion of the hunt will be closed by Emergency Order if this zone’s harvest quota is reached.

Zone 4 Description

Unit 20B and Unit 20F those portions north and west of the Steese Highway, north and east of the Elliott Highway to its intersection with the Dalton Highway, then east of the Dalton Highway and south of the Yukon River, excluding the Chatanika River drainage.

Unit 25C, that portion west of the east bank of the mainstem of Preacher Creek to its confluence with American Creek, then west of the east bank of American Creek.

Have additional questions?

Please visit the FAQs for Hunting Moose and/or Caribou in Fortymile Country.

What You Really Need To Know to Hunt Swamp Country Bucks

Water Barriers

There’s a reason mid-evil castles were built surrounded by a moat. A buffer of water between defender and assailants was a matter of life and death. It warranted a barrier of protection and served as an alert of intrusion.

I used to hunt an abandoned farm years beyond the days of its land being worked. A river abutted the backside of the property with connected drainage ditches lined by tag alders and dogwood woven throughout. The fields had long since grown over with switchgrass, bus-sized dogwood clusters and the occasional weathered cedar fence post reminders of how the land used to be. It was a whitetail paradise.

Every spring the river swelled from the thaw and flooded the land. After years of soggy bottoms, cattails prevailed as common across much of the land once tilled and rotated between a bounty of crops.

By May the flooding would subside, and resident deer moved back in.

I lost a lot of blood watching deer movement the first couple summers, mosquitos were horrendous. I posted up on the edge of timber and watched for evening movement. I would catch glimpses of their bright, orange-colored bodies moving from a square section of cattails surrounded by a drainage ditch towards the neighbor’s crop fields. The sound of water as they crossed the ditch was a calling card and drew my eyes in that direction.

If I could hear the water from a distance, it’s a no-brainer they used the sound as an alarm for intruders. These deer had innately chosen to bed in an area surrounded by a moat. Maybe the deer were bedding in these squares of cattails surrounded by drainage ditches because the coyotes were reluctant to cross the water.

Every winter the snow-covered ice on these frozen ditches were traced with coyote tracks weaving back and forth into the cattails squares I knew the deer to bed in before the water turned to ice. During the season, however, I never once witnessed a coyote cross the ditches to access those cattail squares. It was the first time I had ever equated the concept of a water barrier between landlocked deer bedding and surrounding dry ground.

The combination of deterrence and sound making areas of high ground surrounded by water likely bedding habitat.

Sanctuary Myth Buster

“Don’t go in there!” We’ve all heard it before and many of us likely implore it. It’s no secret deer bed in marshes and swamps. It’s been written about, professed in seminars and surely neighbors of the wetland area next door have voiced an opinion that intruding into that marsh will “kill the deer hunting in a hurry around here.”

Thick cover, like cattails and tag alders, is hard to navigate stealthy. The suction of footsteps in mud and splashing of water contribute to the sound of rustling brush and breaking branches. Without the cover of wind or other distracting background noise, like nearby train or road traffic, sneaking up on a deer bedded in a marsh is close to impossible. This is the very attraction deer have to marshes and it is what makes killing a deer in the marsh more complicated.

Then why hunt marshes?

Simply put, the challenging obstacles of deer hunting wetland habitat are the very same details that attract more deer to those areas. I’ll take those odds.

I used to hunt the fringes starting off observing from a distance and then moving in to hunt the edges. I had read an article stating the importance of leaving core bedding areas alone and treating them as sanctuaries to hold more deer on your property. It made sense, why would the deer leave if I avoided pushing them away?

I had my share of opportunities hunting the way I did, but most mature buck encounters occurred during the seek phase of the rut. From the last week of October to the end of the first week of November I would stick to the edges of the area I had left alone all season. It was a waiting game and never really felt like I was actively hunting or pursuing. To each their own, hunting is personal after all, but a successful hunt after applying aggressive tactics tends to climb the ranks of my most memorable days in the woods.

It was Dan Infalt who convinced me I was missing out. Of course, I looked back on several great bow kills hunting the fringes of the very place I called a sanctuary, but I was being defensive.

Dan asked a very simple question – how many of those bucks I had killed hunting the sanctuary fringes were outside of the rut?

My answer – “None.” Short and sweet.

If you know the deer are in there, why not go in and get after them? Let that sink in.

Written By: Sam Ubl

Sometimes nostalgia corrupts your remembrances. Things I enjoyed in my youth are fondly remembered, but I no longer have to deal with them.

My new six-speed automatic Jeep is so much more reliable and easier to drive than my Dad’s old Jeep panel truck, but I fondly remember the old jeep.

I grew up with double-barrel and pump-action shotguns. While they were useful and still are, the Panzer Arms BP-12 Bullpup is something from a different century.

Standout Features

This shotgun is a self-loader with a five-round detachable box magazine. I have several shotguns that do not even accept a light or optics mount of any type.

The BP-12 has several inches of real estate for mounting lights or optics. The bullpup configuration was first used in rifles and only much later has it become popular in shotguns.

The design places the receiver behind the shooter’s face and the firing grip forward. This allows for a relatively long barrel in a short package.

The BP-12 doesn’t point like a standard shotgun, as the balance of the piece is very different than a standard-design shotgun. The shotgun’s natural point is quite different than a bullpup.

The bullpup must be handled like a rifle and driven toward the target like a rifle and aimed with more care than the usual shotgun.

While modern and effective, a bullpup must be learned and handled decisively to be effective.

Panzer Arms BP-12 Specifications:

Action: Self-Loading Chamber: 12-Gauge, Three-Inch Overall Length: 30.7 Inches Capacity: 5+1 (10rd Magazines Available) Weight Unloaded: 7.8 lbs Weight Loaded: 8.6 lbs Barrel Length: 20 Inches Finish: Blued

How It Shoots

When you are firing the shotgun, your cheek is closer to the receiver than with most shotguns. Muzzle signature is more evident.

The Panzer Arms BP-12 shotgun isn’t difficult to use well, but these differences simply must be understood. The person who learns to use the shotgun well will find it a very effective firearm.

Those who do not care to practice and learn should choose a simpler firearm. The primary difference between this shotgun and others is that the firing grip is far ahead of the action.

The trigger bar goes through some tangents and this means the trigger will never be as nice as a standard-design shotgun, but then a crisp trigger is part of very few shotgun designs.

Learning to use the bolt release and magazine release isn’t difficult. Simply put aside time for dry-fire practice.

A few words on the shotgun’s quality of manufacture: the fit, finish and machining impress. The hardware fits well and the finish is always even.

The shotgun is delivered with AR-15 type sights, two magazines that hold five 12-gauge shells, and a cheek riser to allow the use of optical sights.

If you are using iron sights, then remove the cheek riser. There are two adjustment rings supplied with the shotgun that must be fitted after partial disassembly in order to change between standard and high-velocity loads.

The cocking handle may be reversed to allow racking from either side. Most right-handed shooters will have the cocking handle on the left side of the receiver.

The bolt handle allows plenty of leverage, racking the bolt isn’t difficult at all.

Other Performance Notes

Simply load the magazine with shells, slipping the shells under the feel lips and pressing them straight to the rear. I always tap magazines on a boot heel or hard surface to seat the shells.

This ensures feed reliability. Then, angle the magazines in the magazine well and be certain it is properly seated. Rack bolt to load the first shell and you are good to go for firing.

The safety lever is easy enough to manipulate. When firing the shotgun, it seems recoil is easier to manage than with a standard-configuration shotgun.

Fire, get the sights back on target and hit the target again. The large peep sights make for excellent high probability. The shotgun was fired with a variety of loads.

Some did not function properly. Panzer Arms states that a break-in period of up to 100 full-power shells may be needed. This seems reasonable.

Other tightly-fitted firearms require a modest break-in. Some full-power shells did not function properly, with the occasional short cycle, while some types came out of the box running.

Fiocchi full-power Aero slugs functioned and so did Remington full-power buckshot. Reduced-recoil loads will not function, at least with the full-power ring installed and during the initial break-in period.

Incidentally, during the test, I dropped a fully-loaded all-steel magazine on the concrete walk of the firing range. The magazine was scuffed of course, but not dented and it never failed to feed properly.

After the initial test, I would load full-power Remington Power Piston loads and rest easy. The shotgun is supplied with three choke tubes for open, modified and full choke use.

I like this option in a combat shotgun. I like to have a shotgun that delivers a solid hit with the buckshot load to at least 20 yards. These choke tubes are Mobil types and are nice to have.

Conclusion: Panzer Arms BP-12

I like the Panzer Arms shotgun. It is well-made and should prove to be a formidable defender for the home or ranch.

What do you think of the Panzer Arms BP-12? Do you like bullpup shotguns? Let us know in the comments below!

(Like this shotgun? You might also like the Kel-Tec KSG Pump-Action Shotgun. Read our range report on the firearm here.)

DON’T MISS Episode 34 – 2022 Giant Gear Issue Series – Decoys with MOJO and Big Al’s

Big Al’s Decoys – Ken White Super Speck Pack Silos

Big Al’s Silhouette Decoys has teamed up with former World Speck Calling Champion Ken White to develop the Super Speck pack. Ken has spent decades hunting specks on his home turf in California, learning decoying tactics that pull specks in close to the guns. These highly portable and lightweight decoys feature photo-print realism, tough fluted plastic bodies, ultra-flat low shine finish and the choice of basic or spring steel stakes. Packed in dozens with 4 searcher, 4 feeder and 4 alert body postures included.

$66 per 12 | bigalsdecoys.com

Dive Bomb Industries – V2 Snow Goose Silhouettes

The winner, winner chicken dinner of silhouette decoys, Dive Bomb Industries’ V2 Snows, are painted with pure black and white colors that boost realism. Each decoy is crafted from a 4mm thick corrugated material that is durable and rigid. The images are printed using non-glare ink additives, and DPI (dots per inch) printing means each side of the decoy features the same quality look, and the one-piece powder-coated spring steel stake resists rust and ensures rapid setup and take-down. You can haul these decoys anywhere.

$70/dozen | divebombindustries.com

Dakota Decoys – X-Treme Sleeper Shells

Great for those cold, snowy day sets when honkers hit the field and go into nap mode, Dakota’s X-Treme Sleeper Shells are single-piece sleepers, which means no heads to hassle with. They are constructed of polyethylene to guarantee seasons of use, and there is no seam line for cold-weather outings to crack. The decoys come in packs of 12 and are available in a painted version with flocked heads and tails and a full-body flock.

$250-$310 | dakotadecoy.com

SX Decoys – Lesser Combo Canada Goose Flocked

From the minds at SX comes the fully-flocked Lesser Canada. Not only are these Canada imposters flocked, but they are built using Flocked Bird Vision color correction and Bird Vision UV flocking to ensure maximum realism. Available in packs of 6, 12, and 24, these fakes come with SX’s patent-pending motion system and loop kits installed.

$195-$770 | sxdecoys.com

Dave Smith Decoys – Snow Goose Juvie Combo

Fooling a flock of snows is getting harder and harder, but when you add a few of these 10-packs to your spread, wings will cup, and body counts will go up. The realistic fold-away legs make storage easy, and the newly designed motion cone gives these juvies just-right movement. Feather matched and showcasing a two-tone paint scheme, these ultra-realistic decoys are built tough and will provide you with years of use.

$390/10-pack | davesmithdecoys.com

GHG – XD Series Full-Body Honkers Active 4-Pack

GHG’s XD Mallards are well established in waterfowl lore, and this savvy decoy maker has taken the best characteristics of this mallard series and poured them into the XD Series Full-Body Honkers. A new RealMotion System married with FlexLock Technology perfectly combines realistic movement with an integrated locking system that secures the motion bases and decoys together. This means a one-piece decoy that is a breeze to set and pick up. The detail is elaborate, and flocked heads add extra realism.

$160/4-pack | banded.com

Real-Geese – Xclipse Shadow Series

An affordable, custom silhouette, Real-Geese’s latest addition to its impressive decoy line — the Xclipse Shadow Series — is winning waterfowling hearts. These two-sided silhouettes showcase a non-reflective, textured surface, and the lightweight plastic boosts durability while keeping weight down. Use these dekes as stand-alone-style or sprinkle them in with shells and full-body imposters. The Xclipse comes with 20-inch powder-coated stakes that drive into any ground, and these goose-dupers are available in one and three dozen packs.

$85-$255 | webfootdecoys.com

Higdon Outdoors – Clone Snow Goose

We love stacking up snows, but doing it regularly is getting more difficult. Many waterfowl biologists’ credit this to the lack of juvenile birds, which is a result of poor hatches. Fooling snows that have survived many migrations is complex, and Higdon’s Clone Snow Goose Decoy is what the Goose Doctor ordered to pull the dupe on flocks of mature snows. This fake mimics live birds’ realistic wing beat and accurate body posture. Plus, it’s bomb-proof and performs brilliantly no matter the conditions. This motorized snow goose imposter comes with a remote, stand, power cord, storage case, and requires a 12V battery—not included.

$300 | higdonoutdoors.com