I’ve long dreamed of hunting in the mountains, spending days climbing, glassing, and stalking. This kind of trip has always seemed quite accessible to me, except for one aspect: getting the meat out of the woods. It would be impractical to expect to drag a deer back to the truck. Foolish, really, and out of the question with an elk. So that would mean quartering and packing the animal out. This is nothing to the hunter on horseback, or even one who is accustomed to doing it.

But here in Minnesota, it is rarely done. Dragging is the norm, and ATVs are often employed. It is unusual to ever be just too far from the road. With a western hunt or two nearing on the horizon, I have felt I needed practice- a trial run. Sure, I could study the process and know what to do, but I wouldn’t want to figure it out in the dark, on the side of a mountain, with a snowstorm coming. That would be truly foolish.

My Chance

So for the last couple seasons, I’ve been looking for an opportunity to try my hand at quartering a deer and packing it out by backpack. While I spend the opening weekend of deer season hunting with family on private land, I always try to plan other hunts to satisfy the need for meat and my need for adventure. This year’s hunt in the Mississippi riverbottoms of Houston County held much promise for taking a deer far from the road.

While I found myself over three and a half miles from the road at my farthest point, I ended up taking a nice buck about a mile and a quarter out. He was far too heavy to drag on the ground, so there was no choice but to follow through with my plan. Armed with a knife and a game bag from Koola Buck, I set myself to the task.

Halfway There

Now, when this is normally done, a person takes the quarters, loins, tenderloins, and other assorted meat from the skeleton, and leaves behind the spine and hide and as much extraneous mass as possible. The unique problem I faced on my hunt was that part about leaving the spine behind. I was hunting in the CWD Management Zone, where leaving the spine and brain material in the zone was mandatory. Dumpsters were provided so that hunters could leave that CWD-containing waste behind, to protect the rest of the state from contamination.

At home, I researched as much as I could to determine the overall legality of doing a conventional quartering job (leaving spine, hide, etc. in the field). I didn’t come up with much. A Conservation Officer might have been a good resource, but they are very busy that time of year. I hate to pester them needlessly. I figured that since the DNR didn’t want the spines contaminating the rest of the state, they wouldn’t want spines left behind in the field to potentially contaminate the environment. It seemed I might incur adverse legal attention if I didn’t take it with me. It also seemed a ridiculous notion to separate the spine/ribcage from the meat and then carry it out anyway. So I planned to remove and pack the rear quarters, and drag the remainder of the deer. I hate to do only half a job, but my choice was more or less made for me.

I still made two trips out- one with backpack, and one more to do the dragging. The game bag I used was more than roomy enough for those rear quarters, as large as they were. The straps on the outside of the Koola Buck quarter bag (not a standard feature on meat bags) made it easy to secure to my pack. Taking that much weight from the carcass made that buck more draggable, but only barely. The dragging portion took longer than I expected, and with many stops along the way. Though my backpack had been heavy, this impressed on me how much more efficient it would have been to pack the entire animal out– even in two trips. Facing even a moderate dragging job in the future, I might elect to quarter and pack.

Conclusions

Since I wound up doing the rest of the quartering job within the next couple hours (to fulfill the CWD zone requirements), I did the whole job yet that day. What I didn’t do was the actual carrying out of the front quarters, loins, etc. Frankly, that’s not a big gap in my overall experience- it doesn’t take much to imagine dropping them into a bag. I feel now I could not only do the job again, but I could do it faster and better. That’s a load off my mind.

The next step will be to get better at using my pack, so the load can ride optimally. This was the first time I had such a heavy load in it. Again, it’s not something you want to discover in the field.

The method for splitting an animal up into quarters may seem complicated, but it’s not. If you’ve ever processed your own deer, it was probably hanging in the air as you dismantled it. Quartering in the field is essentially the same, only on the ground. If you have no previous experience with any of it, just learn about the different cuts and how to separate them from the rest of the carcass. There are many online tutorials available.

Materials for this task are encouragingly minimal. A worthy backpack is required, so choose your pack for the day carefully. A good, sharp knife is necessary to get through all the skinning, separating of joints, etc. Meat bags round out the list, and the one from Koola Buck I used was great. It is rated for elk-sized needs, and just one could accommodate an entire whitetail (not that mine was light enough). Splitting the load into at least two meat bags is customary, so be sure to obtain an appropriate number of bags for your task.

Koola Buck bags like mine come in blood red, to hide the inevitable staining. After washing at home, mine was just like new again. It also proved to be tough as nails and I expect to be able to use it for years to come. After my experience with Koola Buck, I will be looking to obtain smaller sizes for deer and antelope hunts. I highly recommend these game bags to big game hunters everywhere.

Koola Buck also makes heavy-duty and antimicrobial meat bags. You can find them all at koolabuck.com.

Staccato’s newest model for 2022 is called the “CS” and it is now the smallest and lightest model in their lineup, designed for every day carry and personal defense.

We have all eagerly been waiting to hear about the new model Staccato has been teasing for the last few months and the details are finally here.

Specs

Caliber 9mm Trigger 4-4.5lb Aluminum Barrel 3.5″ Bull Barrel Grip Width 1.2″ Length 7.1″ Height 5.6″ Width at Safeties 1.45″ Weight 22.7oz Empty – No Mag Frame 7075 – Billet Precision Machined Aluminum Slide Finish DLC, Black Optic Ready Dawson Precision Optic Carry or Tactical Grip New Stippled Grip

First Glance

At the time of writing this article (October 27th 2022) these have not shipped to Premium Dealers yet so we will be comparing published specifications until our allocation arrives, at which point we will update with pictures and video reviews.

Size

At 7.1″ long, the CS is now the shortest staccato available. For comparison sake, a C2 is listed at 7.5″ long. But the bigger change the reduction in width, meaning there is a new grip shape. The grip width shrinks by approximately a hundred thousandths of an inch from the C2 width, and about fifty thousandths less than a C2 at the safeties. The thinner width should provide a more comfortable concealed carry experience with IWB holsters.

Frame

The CS frame is aluminum. Previously, the only way to get an aluminum frame “small Staccato” was to get a C2-Limited. Which comes with a threaded barrel and Dawson Compensator. (Which is still a good option if you are looking to shoot suppressed) but the CS comes default with the lighter weight aluminum frame instead of steel.

Weight

Because of the reduced size, and aluminum frame, the weight has been reduced to 22.7oz without reducing magazine capacity from the C2

Grip

One of the first things you notice is the new grip. While the new grip STYLING reminds us of the redesigned G2 Tac grip that now comes on the P and XC models in appearance, this is a totally new grip module that (from the specs) appears to be narrower than the C2 grip module.

Magazines

Because the grip has changed, the magazines have changed as well, but they do still hold 16 rounds each (like a C2). However, it is a CS-specific magazine, and cannot share magazines with other Staccato models.

Trigger

Staccato has announced that the CS will come with an aluminum trigger, instead of the typical composite trigger. And the trigger weight will be delivered at 4-4.5lb which is typical for a gun meant for every day carry personal defense.

Barrel

The CS comes with a 3.5″ bull barrel that we haven’t seen in the Staccato lineup yet. It has some noticeably different design features in the portion of the barrel that is visible externally. So far we have not heard anything about a threaded barrel option yet, so for now you will still have to go to a C2 for a “small Staccato” suppressed shooting experience.

Optic Ready

Much like the C2, the CS can come configured with full size tactical sights designed to mate with a full size optic like a Trijicon RMR/SRO, Holosun 507C/508T/509T or it can also be ordered with lower profile compact sights for use with smaller carry optics like the Trijicon RMR CC or Holosun 507K

We are on the Staccato Premium Dealer program and we have reserved an allocation of these from the first production release. If you are interested in learning more, please feel free to reach out to us.

Interested in receiving more info like this directly to your email inbox? Sign up for our mailing list below to gain early access to new inventory, exclusive deals, and more.

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By Jonathan Kilburn

The Hellcat is a formidable carry pistol that provides a compact carry option with exceptional performance. And since Springfield released the Hellcat OSP (Optical Sight Pistol) version along with the standard, its optics options have expanded quite a bit.

One of my favorite features has always been the iron sights that come standard on the pistol. The tritium/luminescent U-Dot sight picture makes the perfect daytime and nighttime set of irons for fast target acquisition.

But, as good as irons can be, as technology has advanced, the use of red dot pistol optics has gained in popularity. This could be because of the ability to gain fast target acquisition, having an illuminated sight, or even the moderately low cost compared to similar optics in the past. None of these are specific to the Hellcat, but a general statement for all pistols used in defensive applications.

No matter what the reason for wanting to explore and use red dot pistol mounted optics, there is no denying their ability to assist aiming. When defending oneself and others, milliseconds matter.

Topping It Off

Today, we are considering two Holosun micro red dots released in 2022 — the EPS and EPS Carry. Since then, it’s been requested in many gun shops across the country. There is a lot to like about these optics. Holosun has developed a reputation for good quality in their products, and the EPS and EPS Carry are no different.

The EPS family, which stands for “Enclosed Pistol Sight”, come from the factory with a host of features. Each model offers several different options. While standard shake awake features, 50k hour battery life, parallax free objective glass and other various features come standard on all, one of Holosun’s claim-to-fame offerings is the optional solar back-up.

General features of the line include CNC-machined 7075 aluminum housings, Shake Awake Technology with last setting recall, CR1620 battery offering up to 50,000 hours of continuous use, multi-coated lenses, IPX8 water and dust resistance, aspherical glass lenses, and good window sizes (0.90 x 0.63 on the larger EPS, and 0.77 x 0.58 on the smaller EPS Carry). Weight of the EPS is 1.4 oz., and the EPS Carry comes in at 1.23 oz.

Holosun EPS Carry Mounting Options

C&H Precision Weapons has been in the firearms industry for quite some time, with a focus on slide milling and optics mounting plates. Some of their biggest clients has been various federal law enforcement agencies. Currently, they have a large lineup of optics mounting plates that work with most of the big names in pistol-mounted optics.

There is no standard plate that comes with the EPS lineup that will fit directly to the Hellcat. Holosun has partnered with C&H Precision to offer a plate marrying these two powerhouses. A kit can be purchased directly from C&H that provides the plate, screws and red Loctite or alternative. FixIT sticks and torque limiters are recommended. Overall, installing the EPS Carry on the Hellcat using C&H Precision plates is straightforward and as simple as possible.

Off and On the Pistol

There is a difference between the EPS, and EPS Carry. Holosun sent one of each for photos and examination. The EPS we received did not have the solar backup system and featured a simple 6 MOA dot. The EPS Carry did have the solar backup and a 2 MOA dot with a 32 MOA circle. All options are available on both platforms. Side by side, the EPS is slightly larger than the Carry in overall width and height. While not a drastic difference on paper, it can make a difference on a micro-compact pistol.

The Hellcat is known for being one of the smallest micro-compact pistols with a larger-than-average capacity. Due to the overall size, the EPS Carry was mounted to the Hellcat OSP. Dimensionally, the EPS Carry is 1.09” wide and the EPS is 1.19” wide, while the Hellcat is reported to be exactly 1” wide. No matter which optic was chosen, it would protrude over the side of the rounded slide edge slightly.

When mounted, a full view of the iron sights was still possible. The EPS Carry had slight wings that helped to line up the iron sights while protecting the elevation adjustment knob. This was something missing from the EPS which offered a flat surface, despite the deck being the same height. For intended use on a Hellcat, I would lean toward the EPS Carry, and save the EPS for a larger pistol.

Drop Testing the Holosun EPS

7075 T6 aluminum makes up the overall housing on both models. They’re robust and lightweight without looking like a set of “birth control” glasses from the military. Despite the look, the real test represents how they perform after a drop.

No optic is designed for excessive drops. They will all fail at some point. So, the most realistic option for a drop test would be the most probable type of fall for a concealed carry pistol — from waist height to shoulder height. As the Hellcat itself has been well-tested for drops and falls, it deserves an optic that can match that.

Taking the EPS Carry, the sight was adjusted out to 25 yards while being mounted and matched to the factory irons for co-witness. Firing two magazines seemed enough for the first accuracy test. The upcoming goal wasn’t to be as accurate as possible, but to see if the reticle will drift after a fall.

From the Waist: I dropped the chamber-empty Hellcat OSP three times from waist high onto a hard — but not abrasive — surface. Physically, it appeared nothing was wrong with the optic, even cosmetically. The reticle did not move.

From the Chest: Moving to chest height, the pistol was again dropped three times onto compacted dirt at the range. No reticle movement was witnessed when firing. It appeared as if the housing was even tougher than advertised.

From the Shoulder: The final tests came from shoulder height. With an outstretched arm, the Hellcat was dropped onto a tiled floor three times, leaving some small dings and a few compacted pieces of rubber in the optic. I test-fired the pistol and noted no reticle movement. Next, the pistol was dropped on the compacted gravel roadway leading to the range from this height. The exterior of the optic had some impacts, with slightly marred rubber pieces. There was no intentional attempt to hit any specific area. The entire test also caused some cosmetic damage to my personal Hellcat.

After the shoulder height tests, the optic didn’t appear to have any issues with reticle movement. While no longer as pretty or “new,” the reticle didn’t move and the buttons were still fully operational with the glass intact. Anodized coatings are great, but not impact-proof.

Concealing the Hellcat and Holosun RDS

With a 1.09” width, it’s not hard to see why this is a perfect choice for concealed carry pistols. This minimal protrusion over the slide of the Hellcat is so small it’s barely noticeable. When tucked away in an IWB holster designed for an optic, the pistol was comfortable with little to no noticeable difference. However, not all holsters used were able to secure the Hellcat with the optic attached. Some of these were just too narrow to even adapt that extra .09 inches of width over the slide.

When looking for a holster for any pistols with mounted optics, it’s best to find one with an open top adaptable for any width pistol optic.

EPS Carry Review — Conclusion

Both the EPS and EPS Carry are excellent pistol optics. The size, durability, and price are the perfect trifecta. When utilizing the EPS Carry, I found that it is not only exceptionally well built for the size, but the options available and solar back-up make it extremely appealing. To me, an adaptive solar back-up takes the worry out regarding the battery performance.

For me, the real stand-out feature with Holosun is the solar back-up. Ranging from an MSRP of $389 to $506, these Holosuns break the mold. For the Hellcat, an additional adaptor plate from C&H Precision Weapons also adds $50 MSRP. Overall, I think this makes for the perfect conceal carry combo.

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Pheasant back mushrooms (Cerioporus squamosus), also commonly known as Dryad’s Saddle, are a common edible mushroom that’s easy to identify. They used to go by the Latin name Polyporus squamosus, so you might find them in old field guides under that name as well.

Pheasant back mushrooms are large speckled brown mushrooms, with a pattern on the surface that appropriately enough resembles the pattern on a pheasant’s back. The speckles are actually very thin brown scales, and you can gently separate them from the cap if you’re careful.

They’re easy to identify and a perfect wild mushroom for beginners since they don’t have any look-alikes.

Sometimes they’ll go by the name hawks wing mushroom, which again, is because of their feather-like patterning and large size.

They also go by the name of “dryad’s saddle” because they sprout out of trees in a large saddle-shaped shelf, perfect for a wandering dryad (wood nymph) to ride. The mushrooms get big fast, which makes them easy to spot as the saddles protrude conspicuously in the woods.

The trick is, that the best tasting pheasant back mushrooms are the small, delicate ones. Once they’re gigantic like a saddle, they’re tough and unpleasant to eat. At that stage, they make wonderful mushroom broth, but if you want to eat the actual mushrooms you need to find tiny ones.

As luck would have it, there are often several tiny, immature pheasant back mushrooms growing under mature saddle-sized ones, so just flip them over and maybe you’ll get lucky. Ideally, they’re no more than 2 to 3 inches across when harvested.

Larger specimens have a leathery texture, but you can still use them in mushroom powder or soup stock. You can also cut away about an inch of flesh from their leading edge, and that part will still be tender.

Where to find Pheasant Back Mushrooms

Pheasant back mushrooms, like chicken of the woods mushrooms, are prolific decomposers and they’ll sprout in the same spot year after year. Once you’ve found a log that produces pheasant backs, you’ll be able to come every year.

Generally, they produce in the spring months, a few weeks after morels. Here in Vermont, that’s usually the first week of June, but in more reasonable climates it’s late April and May.

We also often get a flush in the Autumn months, so I check my spots twice a year. Often enough I’ll see them sometime in September too. In warm locations, they’ll sometimes fruit as a winter mushroom too.

Look for them on dead and dying trees, particularly elm but often other hardwood species as well, including oak, ash, and maple. They will grow on living trees as a parasite, breaking down the heartwood and eventually killing the tree. More often though, I find them on dead and downed trees as a decomposer.

Stately elms were once a common park and roadside tree, but they’ve been killed off by a number of diseases in the past few decades.

I have a particular elm that I watch each spring. It’s downed by the side of a backcountry dirt road that I often travel, and I can “drive-by forage” with my eyes to see when the pheasant back’s are ready.

When this log in bright sunlight fruits and is large enough to see driving by, it’s too far gone to harvest. That’s not the point. Right by a dusty dirt road isn’t the best place to forage anyway…but it does tell me when to check my woodland spots.

This log heats up quicker in the spring than other locations, and when the pheasant backs are big on it, they’re just about the right size in shady woodland spots (or at the edges of cool parkland spaces).

Identifying Pheasant Back Mushrooms

Once you think you’ve found a dryad’s saddle, identification is pretty simple.

First, you want to look for the distinctive pheasant pattern on the top. That’s probably what drew you to the mushroom in the first place.

Make sure it has a single attachment point to the log, usually a thick round single stem where it sprouts from the wood. Unlike chicken of the woods which grows as a fringe, pheasant backs come out with a stem.

Flip the mushroom over, and you’ll notice honeycomb-shaped pores. When the mushrooms are older, the pores are quite deep and really distinct.

That’s when it’s easiest to see their shape, which isn’t quite exactly like the regimented honeycomb in a beehive. It’s a bit more free form, and the honeycomb shapes are a bit irregular.

Still, it kind of reminds you of honeycomb.

On younger pheasant backs, it’s a bit harder to see.

The pore surface is just starting to develop, and the honeycomb is quite small and not very deep. It almost looks like irregular pinpricks, but if you look closely the holes aren’t round.

They won’t be very deep at this point, less than 1mm. Later they’ll be up to 2- 3 mm deep as the mushroom grows.

The spore print from dryad’s saddle is white, though it’s usually not necessary for identification since it doesn’t really have any close look-alikes.

If you’ve got a dappled, pheasant-colored cap with a honeycomb surface underneath, you’ve got a pheasant back. Simple as that.

Beyond that, the smell is a dead giveaway.

While most mushrooms smell like, well, mushrooms, these have a bright, almost citrus-y cucumber scent. Some people compare its scent to freshly cut watermelon rind. Not the fruit, just the fresh aromatic green smell of the rind.

I know, hard to believe, and often the smell isn’t all that strong in older specimens or intact mushrooms that haven’t been cut. Cut one though, and you’ll smell the cucumber.

Harvesting Pheasant Back Mushrooms

Harvesting is pretty simple, just reach in and gently break the mushroom off of the deadwood. It should come away easily, as my 4-year-old demonstrates below.

You shouldn’t need a knife or any other harvesting tools, but you can use one if that’s your preference. The stalk usually isn’t consumed, it’s only used in stocks because it’s quite tough, even in young pheasant backs.

Feel free to cut it off in the field, or bring it home as I do for other uses.

How to Cook Pheasant Back Mushrooms

Young pheasant backs can be dusted clean, sliced, and sauteed in butter or oil. They have a distinctive, almost acidic flavor that to me tastes like they’ve been splashed with vinegar already.

Add in their cucumber-like smell, and I think they do particularly well in pasta dishes. They’re also good in cold (but cooked) salads, like couscous salad or pasta salad. They add a brightness to the mix, but also the savory umami of any mushroom.

Personally, I think they’re great with minimal preparation. Some people, however, think the pore surface has an awkward texture once cooked. It can be peeled off if you prefer, and once you get started it’ll peel away like an orange peel (or the peel of a puffball mushroom).

You can also use a sharp knife to strip away the pore surface. (Or just leave it on, as I do.)

Some people actually like to just peel pheasant backs altogether, removing both the dappled pheasant cap surface and the pore surface.

That’s actually pretty easy to do, provided you cut the mushroom first.

Simply slice them, and then you can peel away the top surface and the poor surface, as they are distinct layers. (Again, I don’t do this, I eat them whole as is, sliced and cooked. This is a matter of personal preference, and some just don’t like the texture of the surface layers.)

Once sliced and sauteed, you can use pheasant back mushrooms anywhere you’d use sauteed mushrooms. Since I think they taste a bit acidic, as if they’ve already been lightly tossed in vinegar, I think they do especially well with cooked greens.

Last season I paired them with wild asparagus, hosta greens, dandelion greens, and some edible flowers from my yard. It made for a truly spectacular wild foraged lunch with little more than butter and wild vegetables/mushrooms.

Larger pheasant back mushrooms tend to be tough, and don’t taste nearly as good as smaller ones.

If you only find big ones, the best way to use them is in a mushroom stock. Simply simmer them in a bit of water until you’ve extracted their color and flavor, then strain and cook with the broth as you otherwise would use broth.

More the recipe following sort? Here’s a recipe for pheasant back stock.

Pheasant Back Mushroom Recipes

Beyond a simple sautee, or mushroom broth with the larger ones, I’ve also found a number of recipes using dryad’s saddle if you’re feeling adventurous:

• Pheasant Back Mushroom Burgers
• Tempura Fried Pheasant Back Mushrooms
• Stinging Nettle and Pheasant Back Palak Paneer
• Dryad’s Saddle Pickled Mushrooms with Jalapeno and Dill

At this point, I don’t know of anywhere that sells pheasant back mushrooms commercially. You might get lucky and find them at your local farmer’s market, as I sometimes do. They’re often just coming in at the tail end of Morel season here locally.

Mushroom Foraging Guides

Looking for more mushroom foraging guides?

• Morel Mushrooms
• Puffball Mushrooms
• Chanterelle Mushrooms
• Shaggy Mane Mushrooms
• Lion’s Mane Mushrooms

When setup correctly, tarp shelters are like magic. With the right setup, you can stay dry in the rain, block rain, create a shady area to eat lunch, or even keep you warm on an unplanned night in the wilderness. There are literally hundreds of different tarp shelters you can use. Here I’ll go over the most important ones to know for camping, backpacking and survival/emergency use.

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Jump to:

• Infographic
• Which tarp shelter setup is best?
• Horizontal Ridgeline Tarp Setups
• Diagonal Ridgeline Tarp Setups
• Tarp Setups with Poles
• Other Tarp Shelter Setups

Tarp Shelter Setup Infographic

Which Tarp Setup Is Best?

The best tarp setups for camping are arguably: the A-frame, Adirondack, plow point, and holden tent. However, the best tarp shelter setup depends on many factors like the weather conditions, how you’ll be using it, and pitching conditions. Ideally, you will learn several setups including at least one which can be pitched quickly, doesn’t require trees or a ridgeline, has a built-in groundsheet, and is closed on three sides for weather protection.

Note: To hang a tarp properly, you’ll need to know the 7 main tarp knots and how to tie out the ridgeline and guylines.

Recommended Tarps:

• AquaQuest Guide Tarp: All-around good tarp which comes in a variety of sizes (10×10 size is 18.3oz).
• REI Trail Break Tarp: For when you need a larger tarp for car camping (12’x12′ size and 33oz).
• Sea to Summit Escapist Tarp: Lightweight tarp which is still durable (medium is 6 ft. 6 in. x 8 ft. 6 in and 9.5oz; large is 10×10 ft. and 12.3oz)
• Twinn Tarp by Gossamer Gear: Even lighter tarp for serious UL backpackers (just 9.7oz)
• Free Soldier Tarp: Very affordable tarp which is still lightweight. Plus it has tie-outs going down the middle! (large size is 118″ × 126″ and 42oz)

Don’t forget about cordage!

You will probably need at least 30 feet (10m) for a 10×10 tarp or 40 feet (12m) for a 10×15 tarp. I recommend getting REFLECTIVE paracord so you don’t walk into your ridgeline or tie-out points at night!

Horizontal Ridgeline Tarp Shelter Setups

These tarp shelters all have horizontal ridgelines. These are good options when you have two trees to pitch between. They are easy to learn and give you even headroom throughout.

The downside is that you’ll need a lot of rope (length of tarp + at least 8 feet for tying around trees). Some of the setups require even more rope to tie out guylines for walls or the roof. While many of these setups can be done with just poles, the roof has a tendency to sag.

Remember to make sure the ridgeline is perpendicular to the wind and the opening is on the leeward side!

1. A-Frame Tarp Shelter

The A-frame is one of the simplest and easiest tarp shelters to set up. It’s also somewhat versatile because you can hang it higher to get more headroom or hang it lower to get more interior space.

The major downside is that both ends of the A-frame shelter are open, so wind and rain can get in. For best protection, hang the A-frame so the openings aren’t facing the wind. If possible try to have at least opening next to a natural protection, such as a big bush which will block the wind from getting inside.

Instructions:

1. Hang your ridgeline about shoulder height.*
2. Put the tarp over the ridgeline. The midline of the tarp should be directly over the ridgeline.
3. Spread out the sides of the tarp so they are taut. You can adjust the height of the ridgeline is you want the tarp to be higher or wider.
4. Peg down the four corners of the tarp. Peg down the entire edge of the shelter for better weather protection.
5. Use a prusik knot to secure the tarp onto the ridgeline

Notes:

• A higher ridgeline will give you more headroom but will be narrower. A lower ridgeline will give you more width inside but less headroom.
• A 9×9 foot tarp hung at a 60 degree angle will give you a width of 4.5 feet and max headroom of 3.9 feet.
• It’s possible to use poles to hang the A-frame, but you’ll really need to stake them out. Even then, the roof will still sag – so it’s best to use a ridgeline for this tarp shelter.

Pros:

• Adjustable height and width
• Very fast and easy setup
• Weather protection on two sides

Cons:

• Somewhat claustrophobic inside

2. Lean-To Tarp Shelter

Also called a wind break shelter, the lean-to tarp setup is fast and easy. The downside is that it doesn’t protect against rain well. It’s also not great against wind, unless the wind doesn’t change direction. For this reason, the lean-to is only recommended for tarp camping in good weather or as a quick shelter setup for breaks.

Instructions:

1. Hang a ridgeline between two trees. Attach your tarp to the ridgeline. Alternatively, tie the top two corners of the tarp to the trees.
2. Peg out the bottom corners of the tarp.

Notes:

• You can also use poles to hang a lean-to shelter. In this case, first peg out the bottom two corners of the tarp. Then attach the top two corners to poles and stake them out.
• The “Envelope” pitch is a variation of the lean-to. Simply fold the tarp under itself to create a groundsheet before attaching it to the ridgeline.

Pros:

• Very fast and easy to pitch
• Possible with square or rectangular tarps
• Can pitch with ridgeline or poles
• Good headroom and interior space

Cons:

• Poor wind and rain protection

3. Wind Shed

Also called a fold-over wind shed, this tarp setup is a cross between a lean-to and an A-frame. Depending on the weather, you can set it up so the roof is flat (for more headroom and shade) or slanted (to repel rain). When the roof is slanted downwards (as in the drawing), the setup is called a “wind shield wedge.”

Instructions:

1. Hang a ridgeline.
2. Drape your tarp over the ridgeline so approximately 2/3 is hanging on the windward side and the other 1/3 is on the leeward side.
3. Extend the longer side of the tarp to make an angled wall. Secure the corners to the ground.
4. Using rope or poles, secure the corners of the shorter side to make a roof.

Notes:

You can pitch using poles instead of a ridgeline, but it’s somewhat tricky. You’ll need a lot of rope to stake out the poles to make it stable enough. Even then, the roof ends up sagging and doesn’t hold up well in high winds.

Pros:

• Good headroom
• Fast and easy setup
• Wind protection from one side
• Some rain protection

Cons:

• Requires a lot of rope
• Guylines are tripping hazard
• Difficult to pitch with poles instead of a ridgeline

4. C-Fly Tarp Setup

The C-fly tarp setup is the same as the wind shield setup. The difference is that, with the C-fly, you fold under part of the tarp to create a groundsheet. Because much of the tarp is used for the groundsheet, you won’t have as much interior space or headroom.

As with the wind shield setup, you can keep the roof flat (for more headroom and shade) or angle it downwards (for better rain protection). When the roof is slanted downwards, it’s called a “C-fly wedge.”

Instructions:

1. Hang a ridgeline about waist or shoulder height. A lower ridgeline will give you more weather protection but less headroom.
2. Fold the tarp under on line AB. This will be your groundsheet. It should be at least 2 feet wide for one person.
3. Drape the rest of the tarp over the ridgeline. AB should be on the windward side and CD should be on the leeward side.
4. Adjust the tarp so line CD is sitting on the ridgeline. The part hanging over the ridgeline (CDFE) will be your “roof”.
5. Pull corners A and B back to make an angled wall. Then stake them out.
6. Use rope or poles to secure points E and F to make a roof.
7. To make the shelter roof more taut, secure line CD to the ridgeline with a prusik knot.

Notes:

• To keep the wall and roof taut, secure points C and D to the ridgeline using a prusik knot.

Pros:

• Has groundsheet
• Adjustable height/interior space
• Decent weather protection

Cons:

• No weather protection on two sides
• Requires a lot of rope
• Can trip over guylines in the dark
• Difficult to pitch with poles instead of a ridgeline

5. Adirondack Wind Shed

This is one of my favorite tarp shelters. It offers very good weather protection while still giving you lots of interior space and headroom. One side is open, so you can have a fire in front of the shelter. Leave the “roof” up in good weather. If the weather gets bad, simply re-stake point D to pull the roof down.

The setup is also fairly flexible: you can experiment with folding the tarp at different places. Make the triangle folds bigger for more weather protection.

Instructions:

1. Hang a ridgeline about shoulder height.
2. Fold the tarp so triangle AEF is on the ground. The line EF should be on the windward side and point A on the leeward side.
3. Drape the tarp over your ridgeline. Line GH should be sitting on the ridgeline.
4. Pull EFHG back to create a wall. If you aren’t happy with the angle of the wall, adjust the height of your ridgeline.
5. Stake out points E and F
6. Pull point C inwards to create a side wall. Stake it down. Do the same with point B.
7. Using rope or a pole, stake out point D.
8. To make the shelter more taut, use a prusik knot to secure points D and G to the ridgeline.

Notes:

• If you want to use poles instead of a ridgeline with this setup, you’ll probably need a partner to help.
• Use fluorescent rope so you don’t trip over your guylines!

Pros:

• Good headroom and interior space
• Great wind protection
• Decent rain protection
• Has partial groundsheet

Cons:

• A somewhat difficult setup which requires practice to get right
• Uses a lot of rope
• Guylines are a tripping hazard

6. Body Bag Tarp Setup

Also called a tube tent, this is a simple tarp shelter. Because it is so small and uncomfortable, it’s really only for emergency situations. It is only closed on two sides. However, because the openings are so small, the tree trunks used for pitching will actually provide some weather protection. For even more protection, pitch next to a bush, boulder, or other natural protection.

Instructions:

1. Hang a ridgeline around thigh height.*
2. Fold the tarp along AB to create a groundsheet.
3. Drape the tarp over the ridgeline so CD is sitting on the ridgeline.
4. Adjust the position of the walls then stake out points A, B, E and F.

Notes:

• A 9×9 tarp will only give you a bit more than 2.5 feet of headroom at the highest point.
• I don’t recommend using poles for pitching the body bag setup. The roof will sag and there’s barely any headroom as is!

Pros:

• Good rain and wind protection from two sides
• Has groundsheet
• Quick and easy to set up

Cons:

• Open on two sides
• Claustrophobic inside
• No headroom and very little interior space
• Have to crawl inside

7. Shade Sail

The shade sail is also called the “hammock shelter” or the “diamond tarp.” Because it is pitched on the diagonal, you get more coverage. It’s popular for hammock camping and also as a sun shade for camp kitchens or even patios.

Note that the shade sail setup is not the same as the diamond fly. The diamond fly is also pitched on the diagonal, but one corner is staked to the ground. With the shade sail, both corners are elevated.

Instructions:

1. Hang a ridgeline.
2. Drape the tarp over the ridgeline. The diagonal midline should be on the ridgeline.
3. Use a prusik knot to secure the corners to the ridgeline.
4. Stake out the corners to create two angled walls. Keep the walls angled lower for more weather protection.

Notes:

• If you aren’t using a ridgeline, then just tie the diagonal corners to trees. Or attach to poles. However, the roof will sag a lot without a ridgeline.
• The guylines on this are serious tripping hazards. Use fluorescent rope!

Pros:

• Easy to pitch
• Lots of interior space
• Decent protection from rain and wind

Cons:

• Uses a lot of rope
• Guylines are tripping hazards
• Roof sags without ridgeline

8. Baker’s Wind Shed

The baker’s wind shed tarp setup uses a rectangular tarp. The tarp needs to be at least 10 feet on the long side if you want to sleep in it with your head towards the side walls. If your tarp is very large, you could also sleep with your head towards the back wall of the shelter.

I personally don’t like the baker’s wind shed setup very much. The Adirondack gives you more protection without sacrificing much space. However, the baker’s wind shed can be good when tarp camping with multiple people all sharing one big tarp.

Instructions:

1. Stake FG to the ground on the windward side.
2. Pull point A inward. Line AF should be at approximately 90 degrees with FG. Stake point A to the ground. Then the same with point D.
3. Attach points B and C to a ridgeline or poles.
4. Tuck corners E and H underneath the shelter to create a partial groundsheet. Alternatively, you can leave them outside the shelter.

Notes:

• Lines AB and CD are the height of the shelter when set up.
• An 8×16 foot tarp can be folded so line BC is 6 feet long. This will give you a max height of 5 feet and a depth of 9.4 feet.

Pros:

• Lots of interior space
• Protection on three sides

Cons:

• Need a long tarp
• Not lots of headroom

Tarp Setups with Diagonal Ridgelines

These tarp setups are good for when you only have one tree. You can also use a pole instead of a tree for many of these tarp setups. Unlike with the setups which use horizontal ridgelines, the roof won’t sag as much. Another benefit of these setups is that they don’t use a lot of rope.

You can get by with just 3 feet of rope for pitching some (though I recommend always bringing more just in case!). There is less interior space around the foot-end of the shelter, so the tarp will trap heat better. The drawback of this though is that they are claustrophic and you may need to crawl in feet-first.

9. Bivvy Bag Tarp Shelter

Also called the “cornet”, the bivvy bag tarp shelter is incredibly cramped (hence the name). However, it’s also one of the best tarp shelters for bad weather. You can pitch the bivvy bag on one tree or with a single pole. Unlike other tarp shelters which use poles, this one is actually easy to set up.

Ultralight backpackers will also love that the bivvy bag shelter requires just one guyline, so you save weight on rope.

What size tarp for a bivvy bag shelter?

You will probably want a 10×10 foot tarp for the bivvy bag shelter. The smallest size you can get away with is an 8×8 foot tarp. This will give you a shelter with an entranceway 4 feet tall and 4 feet wide and a length of 11 feet. But note that the groundsheet starts between CE (not at point D!). So, with an 8×8 tarp, the groundsheet length is only about 7 feet long. Because the end is so cramped, there’s actually barely enough room for a 6 foot tall person. You only get 3 feet of headroom at the place where the groundsheet starts and it gets narrow quickly.

Instructions:

1. Fold the tarp in half on the diagonal line AD
2. While holding the tarp upwards from point D, tuck sides AF and AB underneath so they are slightly overlapping each other. This will prevent the groundsheet part of the tarp from touching wet or muddy ground.
3. Stake point A to the ground.
4. Secure point D to a tree or pole.
5. Adjust the walls and then stake out points E and C.

Notes:

• The bivvy bag shelter is sometimes incorrectly called the
• Because of the shape, this tarp shelter is not good for two people.

Pros:

• Good weather protection
• Has groundsheet
• Uses almost no rope
• Can pitch with one tree or pole
• Traps body heat

Cons:

• Very claustrophobic inside
• No headroom
• Have to crawl inside feet first

10. Hunchback Bivvy Bag

The hunchback tarp shelter is a variation of the bivvy bag setup. It uses a pole to support the roof above the groundsheet. This allows you to angle point D downwards to create a “beak,” which means that the shelter roof blocks rain better.

Instructions:

1. Fold the tarp in half on the diagonal line AD
2. While holding the tarp upwards from point D, tuck sides AF and AB underneath so they are slightly overlapping each other. This will prevent the groundsheet part of the tarp from touching wet or muddy ground.
3. Stake point A to the ground.
4. Put a pole upright at point G
5. Secure point D to the ground
6. Adjust the walls and then stake out points E and C.

Notes:

• This tarp setup doesn’t need a ridgeline or trees at all, but I included it in this section so you can see how it differs from the classic bivvy bag setup.
• You can also set it up without a pole. In this case, you’ll create a tie-out point at point G and use guylines to attach it to a tree. Then you’ll tie the guyline at point D to the ground.

Pros:

• Great weather protection
• Has groundsheet
• Uses almost no rope
• Can pitch with one tree or pole
• Traps body heat

Cons:

• Very claustrophobic inside
• No headroom
• Have to crawl inside feet first
• Requires a pole
• Can easily knock pole over

11. Plow Point

Also called the plough point, flying V or diamond fly, this is another easy tarp shelter. You don’t need to use a ridgeline at all – just tie it directly to a tree. However, the plow point does have a tendency to sag if you don’t use a ridgeline.

Instructions:

1. Secure one corner of the tarp down on the windward side.
2. Tie the opposite corner to a tree or secure it to a pole.
3. Spread out the sides and secure down the remaining corners.

Notes:

• Tying the tarp higher will give you more headroom but less interior space and weather protection.

Pros:

• Very easy to pitch
• Uses very little rope
• Only needs one tree or pole
• Adjustable height and interior space
• Lots of room for gear storage

Cons:

• Hard to get sides taut without ridgeline
• No protection on one side

12. Half Pyramid Free End

I personally don’t like this tarp shelter setup very much. IMO, the A-frame closed end or diamond fly give better coverage while providing more interior space. The bit of groundsheet you get with the half pyramid isn’t enough to justify the lost interior space.

However, the half pyramid can be very useful when combined with other tarp setups. For example, you can use it to make a vestibule or close off the entrance of another setup. Or you can put two half pyramids together to make a fully-enclosed tent.

Instructions:

1. Fold point A under the tarp. Stake down points E and F.
2. Secure point D to a tree or pole.
3. Pull in point B to create a wall. Depending on the angle of the roof, you may need to fold under some of the tarp. Stake down the corner. Do the same with point C.

Pros:

• Lots of headroom
• Easy setup
• Can be used with other setups
• Decent weather protection

Cons:

• Only partial groundsheet
• Not much interior space

13. Forester

The forester is a more difficult tarp shelter to pitch. It doesn’t work well with tarps made from more rigid materials (like painter’s dropcloth). You are better off using silnylon or canvas. Once you master this pitch though, it’s incredibly useful. You get excellent weather protection without sacrificing usable space.

Instructions:

1. Stake down corner A on the windward side.
2. Fold point D downwards to create point G.
3. Support point G with a pole. It helps to have a partner hold it up for you while doing the next steps.
4. Pull point C forward to create wall ACG. Stake point C down.
5. Pull point B forward to create wall ABC. Stake point B down.
6. Spread out triangles CGE and BGF to make door flaps.
7. You’ll have a bit of extra tarp material hanging inside the shelter. You can use a clip to hold it out of the way.

Tip: If you are going to use this pitch frequently, I suggest making a little mark on your tarp where the pole should go. Also note the height of the pole. This will make it faster and easier to set up.

Pros:

• Excellent weather protection
• Doesn’t require trees
• Uses very little rope
• Lots of interior space and decent headroom

Cons:

• Difficult to pitch, especially alone
• Requires pole

14. Bunker Half Cone Fly

The bunker half cone fly is similar to the plow point in that both are pitched on the diagonal. The difference is that the bunker setup uses two additional guylines to pull out the sides of the tent. This creates a V-shaped roof and two almost vertical walls.

While the configuration means you get slightly less interior space, you get much more headroom. This makes the bunker suitable for multiple people and much more comfortable for multi-night stays. It’s also better for larger tarps because the additional guylines prevent the walls from sagging.

Despite looking easy, the bunker half cone fly is actually a bit tricky to set up. You’ll need a good tarp too since the guylines put a lot of strain on the sides and they can easily tear.

Instructions:

1. Stake point A to the ground on the windward side.
2. Tie point D to a tree or a pole on the leeward side. Alternatively, you can run a ridgeline from point A to a tree and connect point D to it. This will help prevent the roof from sagging.
3. Pull out point B and stake it to the ground. Do the same with point F.
4. Attach a guyline to point C. Pull it outwards and secure it to the ground. Do the same with point E.
5. If windy, stake down the edges on AB and AF

Pros:

• Good weather protection
• Lots of headroom in the front
• Large entryway

Cons:

• More difficult pitch
• Roof sags without ridgeline
• Requires two additional guylines

Tarp Shelters which Use Poles (No Trees Required)

These tarp shelters are a bit more tricky to set up because you’ll need to stake out the poles to keep them upright (which takes some practice). If you have a very large tarp, then you’ll need a long pole – which may require you lashing two poles together. But, these tarp shelters are good to know in case you can’t find a suitable tree for pitching against. They are also great tarp shelters for ultralight backpackers because you don’t need to bring much rope with some setups.

Note that there are also many UL tents which use trekking poles instead of normal tent poles. See the best trekking pole tents here.

15. Holden Tent

Also called the “A-frame closed end” shelter, the holden setup is one of the best tarp shelters for ultralight backpacking, especially with two people. It is very fast to pitch and doesn’t require any trees.

For a tarp shelter with three walls, there is actually a lot of interior space inside and decent headroom. Since the shelter is open on one side, it doesn’t feel claustrophic either.

My main complaint with the holden tent shelter is that you have to lay the tarp flat on the ground. This means that, if the ground is muddy, the underside of the tent completely dirty. Thus, for muddy weather, you are better off with a shelter like the plow point.

Instructions:

1. Lay the tarp flat on the ground.
2. Stake out points A, B and C.
3. Put a pole under the tarp at point E. You’ll need to angle it slightly forward.
4. Pull point D forward to create a wall then stake it down. Do the same with point F. You might need to have a partner hold the pole upright while doing this.
5. Secure the pole in position with a guyline.

Notes:

• Depending on where you stake down the walls, you will end up with either a square or triangular interior.

Pros:

• Good interior space
• Decent headroom
• Weather protection from three sides

Cons:

• Can accidentally knock over the pole when getting in/out
• Takes practice to pitch by yourself

16. Dining Fly

The dining fly is one of the most important tarp shelters to know for car camping. As the name suggests, it is great for creating a covered area for cooking and eating. It might take a few tries to figure out the optimal height and roof angle (and thus the right pole length and guyline position). But, once you figure this out, the dining fly is actually pretty simple to set up.

Instructions:

1. Lay the tarp flat on the ground where you want your shelter to be.
2. Attach guylines (about 4-6 feet long each) to all four corners of the tarp.
3. Stake out all of the guylines. They should be approximately 5 feet away from the corners of the tarp and set at a 45 degree angle from the corners.
4. Find two very long poles. If you can’t find poles long enough, you can join two poles together using round lashings.
5. Using half hitches, tie long guylines to the top of each pole.
6. Push the first pole underneath the tarp so it’s at middle edge. It helps to have someone hold this pole in place while you do the next steps.
7. Push the second pole underneath the tarp. Now the roof of the dining fly should be completely raised.
8. Stake out the guylines on the poles.
9. Adjust the guylines on the corners so the tarp is very taut.

Pros:

• Excellent headroom
• Lots of interior space

Cons:

• Uses two very long poles and a lot of rope
• Takes practice to set up, even with help
• Rain and wind enter from sides when pitched high
• Underside of tarp gets dirty when ground is muddy or wet

17. Toque Tent

The toque tarp tent is quite different from the other setups. Instead of having the pole in the front of the shelter, the pole is set in the back. This means you end up with more headroom in the back (but a really low entranceway). Two guylines pull on the entranceway to create an awning. This awning does a great job of repelling water away from the shelter. However, the toque tent isn’t very stable in heavy winds.

Instructions:

1. Fold the tarp so points A and B are together. Stake them to the ground together on the windward side. This is now called “point AB.”
2. Put a pole under point G. The bottom of the pole should sit on point AB. This will make sides AG and BG stand straight up.
3. Pull out point C to create triangular wall AGC. Stake down point C. Do the same with point F.
4. Attach guylines to points D and E. Pull them outwards and stake them down. This will create a low awning.

Pros:

• Pole at back instead of blocking entryway
• Good rain protection

Cons:

• Weird interior space
• Not very sturdy in high winds

18. Tarp Tent

The tarp tent configuration can be a bit confusing at first. But, it’s actually not that difficult to set up. It’s a favorite tarp shelter for ultralight backpacking.

Instructions:

1. Lay tarp flat on the ground.
2. Stake out points A and B.
3. Now stake out points C and D, making sure that folds AD and BC are nice and tight.
4. Tuck corner F underneath fold AD. Then tuck corner E underneath fold BC.
5. Point H is on the ground. Pull tarp corner G there and stake it in place.
6. Point J is also on the ground. Pull tarp corner I there and stake it down.
7. Put a pole underneath the tarp so it stands up at point K. Put a cloth over the top of the pole so it doesn’t tear a hole in your tarp.
8. You’ll have a flap of tarp hanging in the entryway to the shelter.
9. Attach guylines to the midway points on the flap (points L and M). Pull the guylines back and secure them to the ground along the walls of the shelter.
10. Run a guyline from point N to the ground directly in front of the shelter.

Pros:

• Excellent weather protection
• Decent interior space

Cons:

• Underside of tarp gets dirty if setting up on wet or muddy ground
• Slightly more difficult to learn
• Pole can get knocked over

Other Tarp Shelter Setups

Once you learn the basic tarp shelter setups, you will be able to experiment with variations to meet your needs — such as staking out an extra side to get more interior space or adjusting the position of the ceiling to block rain. Here are some examples.

19. Modified A-Frame

One wall of the tarp has been pulled outwards in the middle to get more interior space, but the sides are down for weather protection.

20. Kayak Pitch

This is essential an A-frame tarp setup with one side more slanted down than the other. Instead of poles, kayak paddles are used.

21. Large Bunker

This tarp setup a lot like the bunker half cone. However, there are extra guylines on the sides. This helps pull out the walls to keep them from sagging and to give you more interior space.

22. UL Tarp Setup

Pitching low to the ground means you get weather protection even from a tiny, ultralight tarp. The head area is staked a bit higher so it isn’t as claustrophic inside.

23. Wind Shed Variation

One walls slants and the other has a partial wedge to make use of the space and tree positions.

24. Wind Shed Variation 2

25. Half Tetra Wedge Cover

This is a flying half tetra wedge setup. The roof is angled downwards, which is great for directing water off the tarp in rainy weather.

26. Homemade Tarp

Here’s a very small, UL tarp made by Bob Cartwright of The Outdoor Station.

27. Umbrella

Here’s a way to set up a tarp so it makes an umbrella shape.

Image credits: “Pyramid and Tarps” (CC BY-SA 2.0) by Umnak “Finland_Canoeing_01” (CC BY-NC-SA 2.0) by jjay69, “Kitchen Tarp” (CC BY-SA 2.0) by Umnak “Bob and Tarp” (CC BY-NC 2.0) by Andy Howell “Our Tarp at Petroglyph” (CC BY-SA 2.0) by Umnak “Tarp camp shelter” (CC BY-SA 2.0) by Umnak “Sheep Camp Tarp” (CC BY-SA 2.0) by Umnak “Inner Point Camp” (CC BY-SA 2.0) by Umnak “Sarah’s tarp” (CC BY-SA 2.0) by Umnak “Tarp Camp on Deer Island, Ernest Sound,” (CC BY-SA 2.0) by Umnak “Tarp Camp, Inner Pt” (CC BY-SA 2.0) by Umnak

Fred Bear is the father of modern bow hunting. Born in Waynesboro, Pennsylvania, Bear didn’t even hunt until late into his 20’s. But his passion for the outdoors, conservation, and hunting grew quickly.

In 1933 Bear found himself unemployed during the Depression. He and a friend saved a small amount of money (huge for that time) and created Bear Archery that year.

Bear struggled for many years. But as more states allowed bowhunting and its popularity grew, Bear was at the forefront of the race. Bear spent his entire life dedicated to improving the hunting experience. Archery hunting today is still marked with Bear’s wisdom. Here is a small part of his legacy and why he is still relevant to bowhunting today.

Knowledge

“You can learn more about hunting deer with a bow and arrow in a week than a gun hunter will learn in his entire life.”

Bear hunted everything with a bow, from small game to Kodiak brown bears. He knew those animals well. One could argue that there are skilled rifle hunters that have animal smarts. But it’s a hard sell to say that a rifle brings you as close to learning all the quirks, body language, and sign of any animal the way bowhunting does. Archery, in its nature, forces a hunter to study the habits of animals and improve the skills needed to get closer to them.

A rifleman may know of a scrape or deer trails along travel routes. But a bowhunter needs to know precisely what will occur in those spots. He needs to be concerned with the smallest details of his entry and exit access. There is less room for error with wind and thermal currents. The close shooting range needed to make an ethical shot is only a fraction of what most gun hunters need.

When a bowhunter finds a place to hunt, he has to imagine the deer standing right where he is. He has to know why a deer wants to be in that spot. A hunt that fails to be a student of the woods is hunting almost purely on luck.

Investment

“If you consider an unsuccessful hunt to be a waste of time, then the true meaning of the chase eludes you.”

Remember when you were a brand new hunter? Your whole pre-hunt was spent hoping to come home with something you shot. But think back to the first time you saw a deer in the woods. Most of us weren’t even close to that animal.

My dad and uncle always said, “Well, we didn’t get anything, but we sure had fun!” After I saw my first deer when hunting, I finally understood that statement. My knees and hands shook so hard that there would have been no way I would have been able to draw my bow even if that deer had been close enough.

Bringing meat home to the table is an awesome bonus. But the fun is built into the hunt itself! Start thinking this way, and every one of your hunts will be a good one.

Self-Improvement

“Immerse yourself in the outdoor experience. It will cleanse your soul and make you a better person.”

Today, managing stress and self-care is a popular topic. Therapists, medicine, classes, special exercises, the list goes on. There are more and more medical diagnoses emerging. Suicide rates increase every day. Face it; the real truth is that people are hurting.

I’m not claiming that being outdoors and hunting is the way to fix it all. In fact, many of those options I listed are needed methods of help. But plenty of research proves that unplugging from the world and being outside in nature significantly decreases stress. With a targeted goal in mind and the surroundings of a hunter, hunting is one of the best stress relievers, and it can’t be bought.

Expertise

“The flight of the arrow is as true as the skill and the nerve of the man with the bow.”

Nothing in the world will test your nerves more than a giant whitetail buck. They can make the biggest baddest dude shake like a leaf when up close and personal.

Having a goal of shooting a big buck seems simple. But it’s far more complex than you’d imagine. It’s a good idea to aim for the clouds before you aim for the stars. If you haven’t killed any deer with your bow, start with whatever you get. If that’s a doe or any legal buck, so be it. Your skill will improve, and you’ll be better because of it. As a result, more success will be at the end of the blood trails you follow.

Passing Thoughts

Of all the things hunters do, the one thing they don’t often do is think about why they love to hunt. I’m sure most could rattle off a superficial list of good reasons, but they’d likely miss the big picture.

There isn’t anything quite like bowhunting, and Fred Bear said it best.

” When a hunter is in a tree stand with high moral values and with the proper hunting ethics and richer to the experience, that hunter is 20 feet closer to God.”

Author: Aaron Hepler

When Browning released the X-Bolt Max Long Range back in 2019, precision rifle shooters and long-range hunters rejoiced. By combining Browning’s highly-adjustable Composite Max stock with the proven X-Bolt action, long-range enthusiasts can obtain the custom fit necessary for nearly any optic. Add in 6.5 mm Creedmoor chambering—along with old stalwarts such as .300 Win. Mag. and newer calibers such as 6.8 Western—and many shooters were lining up to get one for themselves.

I decided to pair the Browning X-Bolt Max Long Range 6.5 mm Creedmoor with Swarovski’s ds Smart Optic. Although optimized for hunting, I love the clarity this riflescope provides, along with the built-in laser rangefinder. Effective out to 700 yards and some change, the rangefinding scope was perfect for shooting that day, and most importantly—it was already mounted on the X-Bolt Max Long Range 6.5 mm Creedmoor. Of course, you don’t need a fancy optic to have a good time at the range, but Swarovski’s dS was certainly a crowd pleaser during this outing.

Repeatability, thanks to customization

Whether sitting, kneeling or prone, the foundation of any well-placed long-range rifle shot begins with a well-built “house.” A stock such as the one with the Max Long Range comes in handy here. The Composite Max stock has an adjustable comb for setting eye-to-scope alignment. An ambidextrous adjustment knob and height markings makes adjusting the comb height quick and simple. Switching between two shooters, adjusting the height to find the “sweet spot” again only takes a few seconds. Three spacers are included to customize the length-of-pull. I especially like the textured gripping surfaces, along with the vertical pistol grip and thumb rest.

With a stock that sports a target-style palm swell and a flat-bottomed fore-end, the design of this rifle can help you build a stable shooting platform using a hunting pack in the field, in a similar manner to using range bags.

The X-Bolt Long-Range’s short, 60-degree throw bolt handle is extended a bit, which is helpful for when you don’t want to get off the scope. I found it to be quite repeatable, but must admit that after the first live-fire shot, I had trouble finding it again. This was more user error than design flaw. (Note: The 2021 X-Bolt Max Long Range model has an extended bolt knob.) After that initial misstep, though, it became second-nature, and soon I was ringing steel plates at 200 and 300 yards without skipping a beat. And while punching out further, up to 600 yards (700 yards is the Swarovski dS Smart Optic’s maximum effective range), I was smacking 18-inch round plates at assorted distances with ease.

The 26-inch, stainless-steel, heavy sporter contour barrel is fluted, and includes a removable muzzle brake along with a thread protector. Disregarding my neighbors on the firing line, I kept the muzzle brake on and it performed admirably. The barrel, although hefty, gives the rifle excellent balance while standing as well. Button-rifled and fluted, with a 1:7-inch right-hand twist, this fast barrel is ideal for the high-BC bullets used in precision rifle shooting and long-range hunting.

Browning’s signature gold-plated Feather Trigger is set at the factory to approximately three-and-a-half pounds. Adjustable from three to five pounds, the trigger itself has a nice feel on the fingertip, and the amount of engineering the company put in to creating it is noticeable and appreciated.

Something to note about my gear combination—it was heavy. The Swarovski dS Smart Optic is one tank of a scope, coming in at 38.4 ounces, and the X-Bolt Max Long Range rifle itself weighs more than eight pounds without a loaded magazine. Pair the X-Bolt with a smaller scope, perhaps something with a large objective lens, such as a Leupold VX-5HD 4-20X 52 mm optic, and you will enjoy the benefits of a lighter rig.

For a rifle that offers it all, such as the Browning X-Bolt Max Long Range 6.5 mm Creedmoor, a MSRP price under $1,400 certainly makes it a best buy. In addition to 6.5 mm Creedmoor, there are 10 more calibers available, including 6.8 Western, .300 PRC and 6.5 PRC. Best of all, you know you are getting a quality rifle with Browning’s solid reputation for quality. Visit Browning.com.

Gear

• Browning X-Bolt Max Long Range 6.5 mm Creedmoor. $1,379.99, Browning.com
• Swarovski dS Smart Optic. $4,499, SwarovskiOptik.com
• Warne 40 mm scope rings. $251.99, WarneScopeMounts.com
• Talley X-Bolt Picatinny base. $63, TalleyManufacturing.com
• Armageddon Gear Squishy Rear Bag. $39.95, ArmageddonGear.com
• Phoenix Medium Ridge Runner Bag. $84, PhoenixShootingBags.com
• Berger 156-gr. EOL Elite. BergerBullets.com
• Federal Gold Medal 130-gr. Hybrid OTM. FederalPremium.com
• Hornady 140-gr. ELD Match. Hornady.com

Read more: New: Browning Buck Mark Plus Vision Americana

What are chicken and ducks’ favorite garden plants? Find out what treats you can grow in your garden to share with your feathered family members!

Do you have chickens or ducks? If so and you love your flock as much as we do, your birds are likely spoiled rotten. And completely ungrateful…

It’s important for your flock’s health, longevity, and egg production to make sure they have optimal nutrition. In addition to their primary food, we like to give our ducks plenty of fresh garden goodies throughout the year, which is one of many reasons we maintain a large organic garden/edible landscape.

Over the years, we’ve learned what garden treats our ducks do and don’t like. Now, we’re always sure to grow their favorite varieties to keep them spoiled with fresh organic produce every season of the year.

The fruits and veggies on this list are also some of our favorites to eat as well. So when our ducks aren’t looking, we’ll steal food from “their” garden. (Shh, don’t tell them.)

Top 11 garden plants for chickens and ducks

If you’re a gardener (or aspiring gardener) with spoiled fowl, you might want to grow the plant varieties we mention below. Depending on where you live, the dates/months that you’ll grow and harvest these plants will vary, but you can just follow the instructions on your seed packets to get great results.

Based on the preferences of our Welsh Harlequin ducks combined with feedback from other gardeners we know who raise ducks and chickens, here are the top 11 garden plants for chickens and ducks (in no particular order):

*note: growing info below is based on our temperate climate region, Zone 7B

1. MILD Asian Greens

Season: fall, winter, spring

Light: full sun-part shade

Description & growing notes: Napa cabbage, vitamin greens, mibuna, bok choy, and similar MILD Asian greens all offer a similar, delicious flavor. Our ducks love them, and we do too.

Our ducks do not like spicy greens such as mustard greens or arugula.

2. Chicory

Season: spring and fall

Light: full sun-part shade

Description & growing notes: There are tons of varieties of chicory, and they come in all different sizes, shapes, colors, and flavors. Our ducks like it all.

Our favorite chicory varieties for ducks are “leaf chicories” which feature tall upright leaves. You can cut all the leaves at once about 5″ above the ground and they’ll grow back within weeks, making them a highly productive cut-and-come-again veggie.

Leaf chicory is often sold as “dandelion greens” in high end grocery stores even though they’re totally different plant species. In addition to their productivity, one of the best things about them is they’ll produce continuously from fall through spring. We use row cover/low tunnels to keep it happy in the winter.

3. Lettuce

Season: spring and fall

Light: full sun-part shade

Description & growing notes: Did you know that in poultry heaven, the clouds are made of lettuce? At least that’s what our ducks tell us…

They seriously love the stuff, and it’s hard to pick their favorite lettuce variety. Our recommendation: get the ‘Wild Garden Lettuce Mix‘ from organic plant breeding genius Frank Morton’s farm. It offers a dazzling array of colors, sizes, and shapes.

4. Kale

Season: fall, winter spring for us (our hot humid summers are tough here for kale)

Light: full sun-part shade

Description & growing notes: Our girls aren’t too picky about which kale they’ll eat, but for some reason they seem to prefer extra frilly-leafed varieties. Perhaps it’s fun for them to grab and rip the frilly leaves versus the flat leaves (like Lacinato).

One thing we’ve noticed is that the flavor of kale takes on a more intense, almost spicy flavor as the plants get stressed in late spring-summer in our climate zone. Our ducks stop eating it then but absolutely love it every other season.

5. Mâche

Season: fall, winter, spring

Light: full sun-part shade

Description & growing notes: Another incredibly cold-hardy green. We’ve had mâche survive uncovered down into the single digits.

The plants stay small throughout the winter, then doubles in size nearly every week in the late winter/early spring until it starts producing tiny flowers and seed pods.

Mâche greens are delicious – they taste almost nutty. Some of our ducks also love eating the tiny seeds off the plants, which are probably loaded with good omegas which then go into their eggs.

6. Austrian Winter Peas (the greens/leaves, not the pods)

Season: fall, winter, spring

Light: full sun-part shade

Description & growing notes: Peas aren’t just a spring plant if you know the right varieties. ‘Austrian winter’ peas are the cold-hardiest variety we grow, surviving uncovered to around 10°F.

The peas from the mature spring pods make a killer dried pea for soup, but they’re not as good as snap peas for eating raw. The real magic of ‘Austrian winter’ peas is in the delicious edible shoots/leaves, which taste every bit as good – if not better – than sugar snap peas.

They’re very high in protein, and as you might have guessed, our ducks LOVE them. These also make a great nitrogen-fixing cover crop. Learn more about how to grow & harvest Austrian winter peas.

7. Snap Peas (for the peas in the pods)

Season: fall, winter, spring depending on your agricultural zone

Light: full sun-part shade

Description & growing notes: Pretty much every duck parent we know (and we know lots of them) say their ducks go absolutely bonkers for peas in the snap pea category. Thus they grow snap peas and/or buy bags of frozen peas from the grocery store.

However, our flock of Welsh Harlequin ducks must be broken as we’ve never managed to get them to eat a single pea. Don’t take our ducks’ word for it. Peas will likely be very popular with your ducks — if not, you can enjoy them!

8a. Small Tomatoes (currants & cherry)

Season: summer

Light: full sun (smaller-fruited currant and cherry tomatoes can actually grow in part shade, although they won’t produce as much fruit.

Description & growing notes: We have no idea why, but tomatoes are probably our ducks’ absolute favorite food. If we were the only thing standing between our ducks and a tomato, we’d be seriously worried for our health.

We love and recommend ‘Matt’s Wild Cherry’ tomatoes (in the small tomato category) for a few reasons:

• the plants are incredibly robust and need no care;
• the small tomatoes are the perfect size for a greedy duck bill to gulp down whole;
• they readily reseed and come back in the same spot year after year; and
• they’re an absolutely delicious tomato for duck slaves (aka humans) to enjoy by the handful as well.

8b. Large tomatoes (beefsteaks)

Season: summer

Light: full sun (with the larger sized fruits, tomatoes require a full sun spot – minimum 6 hours of direct sunlight per day).

Description & growing notes: One of our favorite things to do on a summer evening is to score a large beefsteak tomato with a knife, put it on the ground, do our “duuuuuckliiiiing” treat call which sends our flock flap-running across the yard, then watch as our flock viciously rips the innocent tomato to shreds within seconds.

It’s like Shark Week, but with tomato juice instead of blood and ducks playing the role of Great White sharks. We’re not sure who gets more pleasure from this activity, us or the ducks. We hope you and your feathered family takes as much pleasure from tomato-sharking as we do.

9. Sunberries

Season: summer

Light: produce most fruit in full sun, but tolerate part shade

Description & growing notes: A relatively unknown fruit attributed to the famous plant breeder, Luther Burbank, sunberries (aka wonderberries) are related to tomatoes and other nightshade fruit, but taste more like a mild blueberry.

The 2-3′ tall plants form prolific clusters of berries that ripen black. Ducks, chickens, and humans are all happier when sunberries are ripe.

Do note that some of our ducks absolutely LOVE sunberries and some are meh on them. Who’s to know the mind of a duck.

10. Ground Cherries

Season: summer

Light: full sun for best fruit production and flavor

Description & growing notes: This strange little husked fruit blew our minds when we first ate it many years ago. It tastes like a cross between a pineapple and a tomato.

Ground cherries are a staple in our summer garden every year. As it turns out, our ducks love them to, especially Svetlana the flock matriarch who could eat her body weight in ground cherries if we let her. Find out how to grow, harvest and use ground cherries.

11. Chickweed

Season: fall, winter, spring

Light: grows well but will go to seed earlier in full sun; thrives in part shade

Description & growing notes:

Chickweed is a delightful “weed” that grows abundantly in the winter and spring throughout the US. The flavor is sweet and mild and most similar to corn silk (yes, the frills that stick up out of the top of a corn husk).

It was brought over by early European settlers since it’s one of the earliest greens to produce, and has since naturalized all over North America. It’s one of the most cold-hardy greens you can grow – we’ve had it live uncovered through 10°F.

It grows crazy fast in the spring and our ducks will absolutely gorge themselves on it. Yes, the reason it’s called “chickweed” is that chickens do indeed love it too. Once you know what chickweed looks like, you’ll probably see it everywhere during its growing season.

Update: What plants our ducks do NOT like

Just as in humans, there seems to be wide variability in what one duck or chicken (or flock) likes versus another. We talk to lots of poultry parents whose birds like things our flock won’t touch, despite repeated exposure.

For example, our ducks do NOT like: watermelon, blackberries, blueberries, strawberries, beautyberries, grapes, or many other fruits. Other people report that their ducks love these treats.

Since our ducks won’t touch them, these plants are not included in the favorites list above. If you find that your flock does like them, grow away!

KIGI,

Other helpful duck articles that’ll quack you up:

• What to feed ducks to maximize their health & longevity
• 5 tips to keep your ducks from destroying your yard
• Do duck have teeth? Learn all about ducks’ amazing digestive system…
• Duck winter care tips
• Duck summer care tips
• How to build a DIY self-cleaning duck pond

and more duck articles from Tyrant Farms!