Popularity of this tuna among recreational fishing community growing.

I’m sure everyone knows how to set a trotline, but there could be some easy tricks you’re missing out on that will put more fish in the boat. I’ve been setting trotlines all my life but, through the years, my methods have improved immensely through trial and error.

To begin, think big catfish don’t taste good? Then think again. It’s all about the way you cook ’em up. Even at most restaurants when you think you’re eating small catfish, its usually big ones sliced thin. The most important factor is to cut out all the red meat.

After filleting I like to soak them in a half vinegar, half ice-water solution, and then rinse thoroughly with water before packing.

For pan frying in olive oil or deep frying, slice them really thin and marinate them with olive oil and seasonings. Baking them in the oven coated with Panko bread crumb crust works well, too.

My favorite way to eat them is in a good, spicy, slow-cooked catfish courtbouillon along with a few pounds of crabmeat and other seafood thrown in as well. If cooked down, the catfish will fall apart and blend perfectly with the crabmeat.

So try these methods before throwing that tasty fish back in the water.

The first step for a trotline is cutting your pickets. I like to have one around 10 to 12 feet and another around 15 to 18 feet depending on the depth of the water. The best way to position your pickets is to find the back of a bend in a bayou where the current cuts the bottom deep within just a few feet of the bank. The catfish are usually on these hard drop-offs.

Don’t waste your time putting the line across the canal, because as soon as a big log drifts with the current your line will break, plus you won’t have as many hooks in the prime spot.

Put the short pole close to the bank and put the longer one about a third of the way out toward the middle, stretching the line up and down the canal bank. A benefit of some of the shallower hooks is that you can catch choupic, garfish and softshell turtles, as well.

After the first few runs you’ll see if you’re catching near the deeper or shallow end of the line, and then you can reposition a picket so the majority of the line is in the most-productive area.

You may be pleasantly surprised when nearly all your hooks have a catfish on them just because of proper depth placement of the line.

I like to keep the line around 20 to 40 yards long so you keep a good, solid tension. Longer lines tend to lose their hook-setting power.

I also like to keep hooks about 3 to 4 feet from one another. I don’t like to space them too far apart in case a fish steals one bait; another bait will be close, and you’ll probably have many hooks in the best drop-off position instead of only a couple.

Tie the main line about halfway down the picket before setting it in the mud so that the line is suspended instead of too high or on the bottom. I find a bait on the bottom will be less productive because the fish won’t pull downward like with a suspended hook. When a fish takes the bait on a suspended hook and flees downward, it becomes hooked.

Next, a pull string makes checking the line a breeze. Since the main line is tied down the picket, forget trying to reach under the water with a paddle, just tie a line to the top the picket and connect it a few feet down the main line before or to the swivel leaving some slack. This quick tip will save tons of time reaching for the main line.

Always remember to set the main line before putting the hooks on.

I use a 5/0 trotline hook, which is strong enough to hold a monster fish if my pickets have enough give. But it still can straighten if I pull on a main line that is caught on a log; that way, I don’t have to cut the line.

Forget using too much terminal tackle and swivels on every hook. I use heavy rope for the main line, using a quick loop knot. For the hook line, I use a smaller nylon rope with a loop knot on the end. You quickly put the hook-line loop through the main-line loop and pull the hook through the hook-line loop, and the hook is on in a second and can be taken off just as quickly.

To keep the fish from twisting themselves on the line, I tie a big heavy-duty swivel to the main line about 3 to 4 feet away from each picket. Nothing can get twisted this way, and it makes removing the main line a breeze. I use a floating noodle to put all of my hooks on so nothing ever gets tangled.

Everyone knows catfish eat just about any bait, but what is the best? In my experience, cut mullet and perch catches big ones but not as many, while small poggies and other oily shad catch the most.

The problem is that these poggies fall off too easy, so I use the best of both worlds. I hook a small piece of cut fish, making sure to go through the tough skin, and then I take a small poggies and bury the point of the hook in it. Even if the poggie gets nibbled off that chunk of fish will remain until one bites.

Two or three throws with the cast net will usually land me several hundred small poggies. I precut the fish chunk and poggies, and freeze them in Ziplocs so my bait is always ready to go. If catching perch or mullets is a problem, I recommend cutting belly meat into 1-inch chunks, leaving the skin on, while cleaning fish. This normally wasted portion of the carcass can help you catch many catfish.

Try setting out a few trotlines this way, and your freezer can stay full of catfish filets all year long. And don’t forget to bring the landing net with you!

The crayfish, crawdad, crawfish discussion is kind of like the creek, crick discussion — it comes down to regional preference. I’ve heard it all three ways but grew up saying crayfish.

The first time my dad took me to catch crayfish I was both nervous and enchanted by them. We rode our bikes from the home where I spent most of my childhood to the creek down the road. Under the bridge we lifted rocks to look for them, being careful not to stir the water so we could see them. And in one swift motion, dad grabbed them and lifted them up for me to inspect.

I remember asking if it hurt when they pinched his hands, but years of pouring concrete for a living had hardened them to the point the curious-looking creatures couldn’t even puncture his skin. I have been pinched and it’s uncomfortable, but not unbearable. My daughter, Vayda, has been pinched and it turned her off catching them with her hands for a long time. So we got a net.

Catching crayfish is kind of a summer tradition. The creek my dad took me to the first time now runs through his backyard and provides endless amusement. We catch tadpoles in the spring, largemouth bass and bluegill after a good rain and crayfish in the summer when the water is warmer.

Strategies to catch crayfish

Crayfish can be caught in freshwater lakes, ponds, rivers, creeks and streams. They are frequently found in habitats with slow-moving water and plenty of rocks and vegetation to provide cover.

They are easiest to find during the summer when water is warmer and most active at night because they are nocturnal. For these reasons, the best time to go crayfishing or set traps is near dusk.

Catching crayfish by hand. The best way to find crayfish is by lifting rocks in shallow areas of a creek or stream. You’ll need to be mindful of the way the water is flowing, lifting rocks into the current so the dust that gets stirred up by lifting the rock is carried out of your field of view. You also want to lift rocks slowly to avoid startling the crayfish underneath. Once you’ve located a crayfish, slowly reach your hand into the water, approaching from its tail. When you’re ready make one fluid motion to grab the crayfish’s body behind its claws to avoid getting pinched. You could also use a net to try scooping crayfish instead or to place it in front of the crayfish and attempt to get it to run in on its own by touching its tail.

Bait crayfishing. Another method you can try is by using a fishing pole and bait fishing with worms, fish parts or even a piece of hotdog or raw meat. Attach the bait to the pole by tying a fishing hook or safety pin on the end of your line and placing the bait on it. Lower the bait into the water and slowly wiggle it until you feel or see a crayfish grab hold. Then slowly pull it towards the shore. If you are close enough to see the crayfish attached to the bait, you can try scooping it up with a net.

Using traps. You can catch crayfish in larger quantities by using traps. Open traps are collapsible nets that are open at one end. Closed traps are a little more intricate with a funnel at one end to prevent crayfish from escaping. Open traps can be placed out for several hours with enough bait. Closed traps can be left overnight. Some traps are baited utilizing a hook that hangs in the center and others use bait boxes or bait jars. Traps should be no larger than three feet in height, width and depth. Cylindrical-, beehive- and cone-shaped traps are preferred to square-shaped traps.

Crayfishing regulations

Many states require a fishing license to catch crayfish in public waters. In Ohio, you need a fishing license to catch crayfish in state waters. Additionally, it is unlawful for any person except licensed bait dealers to possess more than 100 crayfish or a combination of crayfish, minnows and other baitfish that exceeds 500. Additionally, a bait dealer’s permit is required of persons buying or selling minnows, crayfish and hellgrammites.

Some states also have restrictions on transporting crayfish because some species are considered invasive. Make sure to check the guidelines in your state before you go crayfishing.

Resources

• Ohio Department of Natural Resources

As soon as the sun goes down, you’re faced with an unfortunate reality.

For safety’s sake — or simply to remain on the right side of the law, depending on what you’re use case is — you have to stop shooting.

At least, you did, until night vision optics became a practical reality for recreational consumer-level shooters. These systems are cheaper, better, and easier to use than ever before, and they can make a ton of sense under the right circumstances.

The night vision marketplace can be confusing, but with our guide, you’ll be able to wade through the jargon and figure out what purchases make sense for you. Keep in mind, this isn’t meant to be an exhaustive survey of the night vision optic marketplace.

That would take many thousands of words and is probably beyond the need of most shooters. Instead, we’ll look at a few practical setups you might want to run, either for hunting or tactical applications.

Why Night Vision?

This is a question every shooter has to answer for him or herself.

Are you interested in night vision optics for a theoretical tactical advantage? Are you just a shooting enthusiast who wants to experiment with different situations and use cases?

Maybe you’re a hunter who can legally take certain types of game at night. In some places, deprivation permits allow hog hunting after dark — which is an excellent time to catch wild pigs out in the open … see our guide to pig hunting here.

Or perhaps you have a rat infestation and an air gun waiting for some target opportunities in a safe setting — (you have read our 5 Best Air Guns, right?).

Whatever the case, your intended application should determine what kind of night vision optic setup you purchase, and what you’re likely going to need to spend for effective results.

There are too many possible applications to cover optics for every scenario, so we’ll look at different types of night vision technology and specific optics, along with their range of suitable applications, to help you figure out what you’ll need in the field.

What is NVD?

What are people talking about when they discuss night vision optics? There’s a long history that it’s helpful to understand as you go about making a purchasing decision.

Night vision devices, or NVDs, were developed and deployed for military applications as early as World War II. The Germans put a portable unit in the field called the ZG 1229 Vampir, an active infrared device that was mounted on Sturmgewehr 44 rifles and powered by a backpack battery.

Of course, this type of technology was set to completely change warfare, as night fighting is normally a highly risky proposition without adequate intel and illumination. The U.S. developed “zero generation” active infrared devices in parallel with the Germans, and Sniperscope infrared devices also appeared on WWII battlefields on the Allied side.

Development continued through the Korean War and Vietnam, where first generation passive devices, which rely on ambient light instead of an infrared light source, were put into use for the first time. These offered around 1,000 times light amplification levels and had an effective range out to about 100 yards.

Second generation devices used an image intensifier tube with a microchannel plate, which greatly improved night vision performance to about 10,000 times ambient light levels, or out to about 200 yards.

The third generation saw even more technological improvements, resulting in higher image resolution and greater light magnification, anywhere from 30,000 to 50,000 times greater than ambient levels, offering an effective range of about 300 yards and beyond.

There’s a fourth generation of NVDs out there, sort of, though the U.S. Army went back on this classification after issues arose with the technology. But we don’t need to talk too much about this, except in terms of marketing, as the term does pop up around some devices. Suffice it to say, they aren’t necessarily superior.

I could go into the technical aspects of the technology, but for the average shooter, the result is the same: night vision optics were getting better, and were able to perform in much lower light, such as during a moonless night.

White phosphor technology, which produces a white-and-black, high-contrast image based on amplifying ambient light, is also becoming very popular.

However, for many hunters especially, infrared-sensitive optics are the best bet for hunting at night – where their use is legal, of course. Non-scope-mounted monocular units are also popular for finding game at night.

Why Thermal?

Generally, thermal imaging offers far superior capabilities in terms of detecting animals when compared to light amplification devices. Though the resolution isn’t generally as good, IR units are more than adequate for most applications, and when viewing game through an IR unit, they really stand out versus a light amplifying system.

Additionally, thermal imaging technology can be used in complete darkness, and can also be used during daylight for sighting in, whereas light amplification devices aren’t usable during the day and can be damaged if light sources are too bright.

Gen 2 and Gen 3 night vision devices are excellent, however, and can absolutely surpass thermal imaging devices in some applications, especially in terms of target identification and resolution. This is why you need to be very clear about your goals and intended use cases.

Because light amplification devices are highly versatile and offer greater resolution, they excel for navigational applications and in some tactical situations where higher resolution is paramount.

Keep in mind, however, that gen 2 and gen 3 devices will likely be extremely expensive. Most entry-level equipment is going to be gen 1. So we really can’t compare apples-to-apples in terms of image clarity unless we ignore price.

I know I keep saying this, but it’s really important: It really all comes down to your intended application. Instead of dwelling on all of the technical differences, let’s focus on what the average shooter needs to know.

Best Night Vision Scopes

Let’s start by examining a couple of mainstream night vision and infrared units and what you can get out of them to better understand the market.

You’ll likely not be running a goggle-based night vision system for hunting — though some hog hunters trying to clear overwhelmed farmland will run goggles with IR lasers for quick shots, to eradicate pest populations — and you probably won’t need multiple accessories you’d otherwise find useful for tactical applications.

There are a ton of options available in the marketplace, so let’s look at two to get a better idea of what you might want.

1. Firefield NVRS 3×42 Night Vision Riflescope

This gen-1 night vision scope is more of a budget option, but it gets the job done. It’s a little bulky, and it features 3 times magnification, but for less than $300 in most cases, this scope is a good bet for those looking to enter the world of night vision-assisted shooting.

The unit features a titanium body and is thus lightweight, and the unit also includes an IR illuminator built in (as an aside, be sure to check local laws when making purchasing decisions, because, in some states, infrared illumination isn’t allowed for taking game. In some cases, however, passive units that don’t feature IR illumination are allowed).

The Firefield has red crosshairs with adjustable brightness settings and features 20 hours of battery life when the IR is active, reaching 50 hours if IR mode is off. Otherwise, this is a simple unit that is reasonably easy to use but is very careful not to use this scope in daylight. The front lens cover has a pinhole sight you can use to zero your rifle in daylight, but it isn’t especially easy to use.

2. ATN Thor 4 384 2-8x Thermal Scope

While anything in the Thor line-up from ATN is going to be quality, the 2-8x magnification is a common sweet spot for hunting. However, you can get ATN thermal scopes ranging from 1.15x all the way to 40x.

Hunting at night has never been easier than with modern thermal scopes. The ability to clearly see and target game in near zero light is a powerful tool, but it doesn’t come cheap.

ATN has packed in a lot of goodies though, from computer-assisted one-shot-zero to a self-correcting BDC, plus being able to record in 60-fps!

You’ll also have lots of options in terms of sensor model and lenses.

3. ATN X-Sight II HD 3-14x

While the Firefield is a great way to get your toe wet in night vision, sometimes it really helps to get the next rung up from the budget option. In this case that means the ATN X-Sight II HD – and the extra cash really makes a difference.

Sporting a ballistic calculator, recoil activated video, night and day vision, E-barometer, gyroscope, and E-compass – this is the scope that coyotes should fear.

And it comes in at a very reasonable price point.

Best Tactical Night Vision

Tactical setups for night shooting run the gamut, and covering every possible setup for every use case is outside the scope of this article (pun intended).

That said, most shooters will either run a full night vision scope on their rifle, or use some sort of head-mounted goggle NVD system, along with a specialized setup on their rails, with a red dot sight, iron sights, an IR laser, and some combination of illumination options, either for redundancy’s sake, or just out of personal preference.

There are far too many potential options and combinations of equipment, but be aware that as you get deeper into setting up a gun for shooting at night, more advanced IR laser systems and sights can become expensive.

4. Sightmark Ghost Hunter 2×24 Night Vision Monocular

The Ghost is a gen 1 monocular night vision optic with a built-in IR illuminator. It features 2x magnification, automatic shut-off when ambient light is too intense, and polymer construction to keep it lightweight.

This is a small unit, and you can use it as a hand-held, mount it directly on a rifle (with a separate mounting bracket), or integrate it into a goggle system (sold separately, obviously). All are reasonable options, depending on your setup, but from a tactical perspective, I’d guess most would opt for a goggle mount. The Ghost Hunter absolutely would serve on a rifle, though.

At around $240, this isn’t the cheapest monocular night vision setup you can get, but it’s definitely within the ballpark for those seeking entry-level equipment, and it’s versatile to boot. You can spend much more on a gen 2 or 3 unit, but for shooting within closer ranges, the Ghost should suffice.

5. Primary Arms Advanced Micro Dot

This night vision-compatible red dot setup allows for versatility with an IR or night vision scope mounted inline. While this sort of system really isn’t optimal as the primary aiming system for a goggle-mounted night vision setup.

Because of the issues, you’ll have to try to navigate around and focus your optics at distance, all while trying to line up your red dot. In a tactical scenario, this is far from ideal.

That’s why most goggle-mounted night vision setups rely on IR lasers as their primary aiming system, with red dots and iron sights as backups. With that said, the Primary Arms’ red dot system absolutely can serve for various configurations.

It allows for precise zeroing and features over 50,000 hours of battery life on the medium intensity setting. Great for set-ups that you want to leave turned on even when they are stored away in your safe!

This red dot can provide accurate sighting in line with a night vision or IR scope, or act as a redundancy aiming system in conjunction with an IR laser aiming system. It’s built to be rugged, features a long battery life, and has most of the features for a variety of night shooting and tactical applications.

6. Steiner Offset Tactical Aiming Lasers-IR

Most goggle-mounted night vision systems are going to rely on IR lasers to reliably hit targets in the dark. It’s just not practical to try to line up red dots or iron sights down the length of a barrel with goggles strapped to your head.

Again, there are tons of IR laser units available, but the civilian market is generally restricted, both in the U.S. and abroad (so be sure you can legally acquire what you’re looking to purchase), and the units tend to be on the expensive side.

On the cheaper side of high-quality, low-power, civilian-legal IR lasers designed for use with rifles. This unit offers a low profile, light weight construction, and easy functionality for use with a night vision shooting system.

Note that a lot of users report preferring to run this laser with a remote switch to temporarily activate it when ready to shoot. Additionally, some prefer to run it alongside an IR illuminator to help reduce the blooming effect the laser gives off when it hits a target.

This blooming is unavoidable, as the laser light reflects back toward your optic when it hits something, but an IR illumination can help reduce the effect.

Daytime Optic Compatibility

Use caution when paring red dot systems with night vision scopes. Make sure you’re red dot system is compatible with night vision applications because if the red dot is too bright, it’s possible for it to damage your night vision optic.

Lower power settings are available for many red dot systems, but be sure to check with the manufacturer and know how to use your equipment before you make a costly mistake.

Night Vision Enthusiasm

There are a ton of reasons to be excited about night vision shooting setups. For anyone who hunts, the opportunity to track game at night, such as predators and pest species, is a game changer — where it’s legal to use these systems, of course.

For tactical enthusiasts or those interested in self-defense, the ability to safely engage targets at night is revolutionary. It takes some knowledge and understanding, but if you have the funds and the drive to learn, a night vision setup is within your reach!

Hunt with night vision or thermals? Run tactical ops with them? Let us know in the comments! And if you’re looking for some NVGs, take a look at our best Night Vision Googles article!

The length of time it takes for a deer to decompose varies greatly according to environmental factors around the carcass. A deer carcass that is left to decompose without interference from scavengers may take around six months to completely decompose to bones.

Scavengers play a very important role in the decomposition of deer. They help eat the flesh from the bones and scattered the pieces exposing them to other agents of decomposition.

By puncturing the skin, they help in the circulation of oxygen into and out of the body which plays a big role in its decomposition.

Weather is also known to affect the rate of decomposition. Carcasses are known to decompose faster during summer when temperatures are high. Cold temperatures are known to preserve the body.

What is Decomposition?

Decomposition is the process where dead organic matter is broken down into simple organic and inorganic matter

All organic matter once dead needs to be broken down. If this did not happen, bodies and dead plants would be all over the world.

Decomposition helps in returning nutrients ingested back to the ground. Farmers have been known to decompose compost and add it to their to the soil in their farm to increase nutrients in the soil. Dead leaves that decompose on the forest floor add nutrients back to the soil which helps the forest to thrive.

Factors That Influence The Rate of Decomposition

Various factors influence the rate of decomposition. Below are some of them.

1. Temperature

Warmer temperatures promote decay. This is because they are favorable for bacteria activities. Cold temperatures inhibit bacterial activity. It is not uncommon for decomposition not to occur at extreme cold temperatures.

2. Moisture

Research shows that moisture plays an important role in the decomposition of dead matter. The higher the moisture content in the carcass the faster it is able to decompose.

Mummification occurs when the body has low moisture content and is exposed to extremely high temperatures. The body is normally preserved at this state because bacterial activities are not able to complete.

3. Oxygen

Oxygen influences aerobic bacterial activity. This means that the higher the oxygen levels the faster the rate of decomposition.

4. Insects

Insects like blowflies are attracted to rotting matter. They lay their eggs on open surfaces of the carcass which hatch into maggots.

The maggots crawl into the body, damage soft tissue while burrowing into them, liquefying the body and increasing heat. They feed on the dead body and later on emerge as adult flies.

5. Season / Climate

During fly season decomposition rates are higher. This is because of the availability of more flies which means that more maggots will be present to helping the decomposition of the carcass.

6. Animal Activity

scavengers are known to pick through dead bodies and find whatever is edible and eat it. While feeding, they end up scattering some of the body parts exposing them to other agents off decomposition.

What Decomposes a Deer?

A class of animals known as decomposers are responsible for the breaking down of dead matter. They include, fungi, bacteria, worms and insects.

Decomposers are animals that get their energy by feeding on dead plants and animals. They are also known for breaking down animal waste from which they get energy.

They play a very important role of keeping energy flowing throughout the ecosystem. By breaking down organic matter into simpler inorganic matter they make nutrients available for primary consumers.

Worms do not necessarily fall under decomposers. They are commonly known as detritivores. Worms, unlike bacteria who absorb the nutrients directly from their surroundings, feed on and digest their food internally.

What Happens When a Deer Decomposes?

When a deer decomposes, their flesh, internal organs and skin is completely broken down leaving behind only bones which take longer to decompose.

The dead body passes through several stages before it is completely disintegrated too bones. Below at the five stages in which the body Undergoes.

Stage One: Fresh

This is the stage a few hours after the animal dies. Blood stop circulating throughout the body and the limbs start stiffening due to chemical changes in the muscles.

The remains are free of insects. Blood flows and settles on the lower side closest to the ground. Body temperatures either drop or rise to match those of the surroundings.

Stage Two: Bloat

It is during this stage that bacteria present in the human body begins to digest the tissues. This activity causes them to release gases that fill the body making it to bloat.

The body starts emitting a foul smell as the bacteria do their work. The pressure exerted by the gases in the body forces fluids out through openings in the body.

The foul smell attracts blowflies which come and lay their eggs in the body. The maggots hatch and start feeding on body tissues that detach from the skin causing it to slip.

Stage Three: Active Decay

As bacteria and insects breakdown muscles and other organs a lot of mass is lost. Liquids released into the surrounding also contributes to the loss of body mass.

Body tissues liquefy and the skin turns black.

Stage Four: Advanced Decay

It is during this stage that the decomposition of tissues and cells together with the liquefaction of the body is almost complete. Most of the remains have darkened.

A lot of nutrients have been released into the soil surrounding the body increasing its fertility.

Stage Five: Dry Remains

Most of the body tissues and skin have already been decomposed and all that remains is a dry skeleton with perhaps some hair left.

Insects like beetles come and eat anything that might be left. The bones change in color and lighten up because of exposure to the sun. They are eventually covered up and disappear into the earth.

What to Do with a Decomposing Deer?

It is advisable to try and dispose of the body before it starts decomposing. This is to avoid other animals coming into contact with the dead body and avoid the foul smell from filling the area.

When other animals accidentally come into contact with the deer they might get infected by diseases carried by the dead deer. The sickness might spread throughout the herd causing many animals to get sick and die.

The best thing to do is to try and bury the body leaving it to decompose in the soil. This will release nutrients directly into the soil while avoiding anything coming into contact with the body.

If the animal died in a hard to reach place like at the bottom of a ledge, you can speed up the decomposition process by piercing the skin, increasing air circulation in and out of the carcass.

To avoid the foul smell, try pouring large amounts of lime and if possible vinegar to neutralize the smell.

Related Deer Articles:

• Are Deer Rodents?
• Can Deer Be Domesticated?
• Why Do Deer Stare At You
• Do Deer Hibernate?

Conclusion

Deer decomposition has its own advantages as it means that nutrients are able to return to the earth which will be used by other organisms.

It however produces foul smells and attracts disease spreading insects like blowflies. It is however a natural process that must occur.

Trapping muskrats has long been a traditional outdoor activity for many enthusiasts and an effective method for controlling the population of this small semi-aquatic rodent.

As a beginner, it’s important to understand the basics of muskrat behavior and their natural habitats to increase chances of success and ensure an ethical and humane trapping experience. With the right knowledge and equipment, even newcomers can quickly become skilled in trapping muskrats.

Recommended Traps

Body Grip Traps

Body grip traps are effective for muskrat trapping due to their design, which quickly and humanely dispatches the animal.

These traps have a large square frame and powerful springs, allowing muskrats to be easily targeted. When setting these traps, pay attention to the muskrat’s pathways and place the trap accordingly.

Coil Spring Traps

Coil spring traps are also a popular choice for trapping muskrats. These traps consist of two powerful springs attached to a jaw-like mechanism.

When the muskrat triggers the trap, the jaws close with great force, ensuring a quick capture. Coil spring traps should be placed in shallow water near muskrat dens or other frequented locations.

Foothold Traps

Foothold traps are a traditional choice for many trappers. These traps have two jaws that close when a muskrat steps on the trigger, securing the animal’s foot.

Foothold traps can be placed near muskrat dens, on floating debris, or on trails. These traps are known for their versatility, and can be used in different situations.

Conibear Traps

Conibear traps are a type of body grip trap with a rectangular frame. They are designed to capture and kill the muskrat with the strong force of the springs.

Conibear traps are best used in narrow channels where muskrats frequently swim or travel through.

Live Cage Traps

Live cage traps are a humane option for those who want to capture muskrats without causing harm. These traps consist of a metal cage with a door that closes when the muskrat enters to eat the bait inside.

This method allows the trapper to safely relocate the muskrat to another area. When using live cage traps, be sure to check them frequently to avoid causing unnecessary stress to the captured animal.

Float Traps

Float traps are a unique method of trapping muskrats that involve a floating platform, which is placed in water where muskrats are known to forage.

These platforms typically have traps, such as foothold or body grip traps, attached to them. When the muskrat climbs onto the floating platform, it triggers the trap, ensuring a successful capture.

Trap Setting Techniques

Den and Burrow Sets

Den and burrow sets are ideal for targeting muskrats within their natural habitats. To set up a den set, locate an active muskrat burrow entrance, either underwater or above water within the bank. Place a trap at the entrance, ensuring it is stable and secure.

For burrow sets, position the trap inside the burrow, making sure it is properly concealed. Successfully trapping muskrats with den and burrow sets requires patience, observation, and proper trap placement.

Runway Sets

Muskrats frequently use established trails to move through their territory. A runway set aims to take advantage of these well-traveled paths. Locate a muskrat run, typically characterized by a narrow underwater channel with a clearly visible entrance.

Place a trap within the run approximately six to twelve inches below the water surface. Keep the trap secured with a stake or weight so that it remains in position. The muskrat will swim into the trap as it moves along its usual route.

Slide Sets

A slide set capitalizes on muskrats’ tendency to slide into the water from the bank. Identify an active slide by looking for a narrow, worn path leading from the bank into the water.

Place a trap on the slide, submerging it slightly under the water. Make sure the trap is stable, preferably anchored to nearby vegetation or a stake. As the muskrat uses the slide, it will encounter the trap and be captured.

Float Sets

Float sets are an effective technique for trapping muskrats in deep water. To construct a float set, create or purchase a floating platform made of wood or foam. Attach the trap to the float and anchor it in a location where muskrats are known to be active.

Bait the trap with vegetables or muskrat attractant, making it an enticing target for the muskrats. When the muskrat visits the float set, it will be caught in the trap. Remember to regularly check and reset these traps as needed.

Muskrat Bait and Lure

Natural Food Sources

Muskrats have a diverse diet consisting of various plants and small aquatic animals. You can use some of these natural food sources to attract them to your trap. These include vegetation such as cattails, root vegetables like carrots and parsnip, apples, and other parts of plants that muskrats may eat.

Additionally, muskrats are known to consume small aquatic animals like crayfish, mussels, frogs, and insects. Using these natural food sources as bait can enhance the effectiveness of your trap.

Commercial Lures

There are commercially available muskrat lures that you can use to attract them more effectively. These lures often contain scents or ingredients that are highly attractive to muskrats, including oil of anise.

When using commercial lures, carefully read and follow the manufacturer’s instructions to ensure successful trapping. Keep in mind that some lures may also attract other animals such as beavers, raccoons, or coons, so be prepared to secure your trap accordingly.

Homemade Lures

If you prefer to make your own muskrat lure, you can use some of the natural food sources mentioned earlier, combined with additional scents or ingredients to enhance their attractiveness.

One common homemade lure is a mixture of peanut butter and apple bits. This combination produces a strong scent that can lure muskrats toward your trap.

However, homemade lures may not be as potent as commercial options, and you may need to test different formulations to find the most effective combination for your specific trapping location. Remember to be cautious when using homemade lures, as they might also attract unintended animals to your trap.

Trapping Safety and Equipment

Protective Clothing

When trapping muskrats, wear protective clothing to ensure safety and reduce the risk of injury. Wearing gloves helps protect your hands from sharp objects and animal bites.

Additionally, waders are crucial for navigating the wet environments where muskrats are commonly found. This water-resistant gear enables trappers to move comfortably and safely in shallow water while setting and checking the traps.

Trap Preparation and Maintenance

Proper preparation and maintenance of muskrat traps are crucial for optimal performance and to ensure the wellbeing of the animal. Follow the guidelines below:

• Clean and deodorize traps between each use to eliminate any human scent or remnants of previous catches.
• Check trap mechanisms for functionality by testing the trigger and springs before each use.
• Remove any rust or debris that could hinder the trap’s performance or impede its ability to close properly.

Using well-maintained equipment will make your trapping experience more efficient, effective, and humane.

Trap Anchoring and Staking

An essential aspect of muskrat trapping is the correct anchoring and staking of traps. This aids in:

• Swiftly submerging the trapped animal, ensuring a quick and humane end.
• Preventing the loss or theft of traps.
• Reducing the risk of non-target species coming into contact with the trap.

Use sturdy stakes or tangle stakes to anchor traps securely in position. Some options include:

• Slide sets: These are an effective method for trapping muskrats. Ensure that the trap is appropriately weighted, such as using a #1½ trap or using a tangle stake, to quickly pull the trapped animal underwater.
• Bank den sets: Place a bodygrip trap at the entrance of a muskrat den and anchor it with a stake or sliding wire system to secure it in place.

Properly anchoring and staking traps will make your trapping experience more successful and ethical.

Catching Multiple Muskrats

Use of Multiple Traps

Catching multiple muskrats can be made more efficient by strategically placing a variety of traps around muskrat habitats. Given that muskrats are abundant in many areas and relatively easy to trap, employing multiple traps can help increase the chances of capturing them successfully.

Using different types of traps, such as wire mesh traps, box traps, or body-gripping traps, allows trappers to target various muskrat behaviors and movement patterns.

When placing multiple traps, it is important to look for muskrat signs, such as burrows, tunnels, and trails. Observe their feeding areas and place traps near their most active locations. This strategy will increase the chances of catching multiple muskrats, as they will likely be attracted to their preferred feeding and resting spots.

Colony Trapping

Colony trapping is another effective method for catching multiple muskrats. A muskrat colony trap is designed to catch several muskrats at once without the need for bait.

These traps are made of wire mesh and are typically longer (e.g., 36-inch) to accommodate more muskrats. The trap doors are gravity-operated, allowing muskrats to enter but not exit.

To effectively use a colony trap, place the trap in shallow water near muskrat activity signs. The trap should be positioned at an angle, with one end resting against the bank or vegetation and the other end submerged in the water.

This setup encourages muskrats to enter the trap while they are swimming or searching for food.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the most effective trapping method for muskrats?

Muskrats can be effectively captured using foothold traps, live traps, or colony traps. For example, the Tomahawk Rigid Muskrat Colony Trap is 36 inches long and can catch up to 10 muskrats at once. The most suitable method depends on the trapper’s goals and preferences, as well as local regulations.

How can I safely remove muskrats from my pond?

To safely remove muskrats from a pond, use live traps, such as Havahart live muskrat traps. Position the trap near a muskrat’s entry or exit point to increase the chances of successful trapping. After capturing the muskrat, relocate it to another area, complying with local wildlife regulations.

Which bait works best for catching muskrats?

Muskrats are primarily herbivorous and prefer plant-based baits. However, when using slide sets—a technique that places foothold traps along trails where muskrats enter and exit the water—no bait or lure is typically required.

What is the proper way to set up a muskrat live trap?

To set up a muskrat live trap, choose a trap at least 30-40 inches in length. Place the trap near a muskrat slide or at a known entry/exit point. Monitor the trap regularly and always follow the trap’s instructions and applicable regulations.

Are there specific regulations for muskrat trapping?

Yes. Regulations for muskrat trapping vary by state, province, or country. Trappers need to follow local laws, including licensing requirements, trapping methods, and the relocation or disposal of captured animals.

What are the common uses for captured muskrats?

Captured muskrats can be harvested for their fur, meat, or simply removed for pond or land management purposes. If trapping for meat or fur, trappers must ensure they adhere to local wildlife regulations and sustainable trapping practices.

Wrapping up the Guide to Trapping Muskrats Successfully

Muskrats are among the easiest furbearers to trap, making it an accessible venture for those interested in learning about trapping.

Choosing the appropriate trap, understanding helpful techniques for setting traps, and selecting the best bait and lure can drastically improve the chances of successful capture. Next, check out our Complete Guide to Woodchuck Trapping!

Introduction

The journey of progression that saw Browning Sweet 16 evolve into the current state is one you will love catching up with. The original old Auto-5 Sweet 16 saw a rigorous production process that began in 1902 when John Browning designed the first Auto-5, which turned out as a very functional semi-automatic shotgun. From then, Fabrique Nationale, a Belgian, took the production and proceeded with that for the next 75 years till 1977.

Production later moved to Miroku, Japan, which proceeded for the next 23 years. In these years of production and remodeling, the Auto-5s were made in 12, 16, and 20 gauges, with the sweet 16 version getting the attention of a majority of users then. You may also want to check out other 16 gauge shotguns. Sweet 16 was loved so much was its ability to combine the abilities of gauges 20 and 12. It was until the year 2000 that the last run of Auto-5 was sold.

How it Came to Be

The old A-5 was not popular for nothing. Its unique humpback profile and its long-recoil action with the moving barrel made it reliable and a preferred choice to almost every gun user. It was so popular that if someone didn’t own it, they at least knew someone who did.

Between the period when the old Auto-5 aged and when the new Sweet 16 was introduced, the browning company introduced a more modern inertia-operated shotgun known as the A-500, which was to be renamed A500R. This gun was only produced for a few years, and the Browning team had to move ahead to something better.

After several attempts to come up with an outstanding gas-operated auto gun, which saw the introduction of discontinued gun versions like the B80, B2000 and A500G, Browning decided to bring in something new. In the year 2012, they introduced the A5, which came in as a 12 gauge gun. In 2016, however, during the 2016 SHOT show, the A5 was reintroduced as A5 sweet sixteen thanks to its 16-gauge features. It is this A5 sweet 16 that we want to focus on today in this guide.

Buyer’s Guide: What to Expect from this Beauty

Features

You may feel motivated already to buy this iconic gun, but before making that step to own one, you may want to know what to look out for in this gun. I gathered some of the general features you can check out for before settling for a reliable A5 sweet 16. Have a look.

The Inertia Action

The A5’s inertia action, which is also called Kinematic drive-by Browning, is an outstanding feature that you must look for when buying the gun. It allows you to keep the outer bolt housing in place while the A5’s recoil moves the gun to the rear. This action helps eliminate the need to have the recoil move the barrel to the rear and push the bolt back to its original position as in the original A-5.

The inertia action applies pressure to an interior bolt spring, which in return powers the bolt backward making the rotary head to twist free of the barrel, which cocks the hummer and ejects the hull. When all these happen, the spring in the stock forces the bolt forward to chamber the new shell and close the bolt.

Detachable Trigger

The A5’s trigger is detachable, and you can easily do this by pushing out the two cross pins and giving it a yank or a pull. As you check closer, you should expect a trigger housing made of aluminum as well as the trigger blade. It has a push-through safety button at the rear of the trigger guard and a bolt latch in front of the trigger guard. This allows the assembly guard to lock when the magazine is empty. The bolt latch can also help release a shell from the magazine to load into the chamber.

New Invector DS Screw Chokes

The A5 sweet sixteen comes with three of the new invector DS screw chokes. They are flush-mounted and are about 2.9 inches long, which gradually compress the shot to avoid deformation. The DS (Double Seal), refers to the choke‘s brass branded seal at the back and front threading at the muzzle. While screw chokes threaded at the muzzle allow carbon to build up between the choke and the bore, the invector DS brass back seal perfectly prevents this.

‘Grade 1’ Wood

One other thing I find appealing, and you would want to check out for it the high-quality wooding on the A5 sweet sixteen shotguns. The wood on this gun has a nice finish in a high-gloss synthetic. The wood’s checkering is a result of a perfect machine-cut, which is well executed in an attractive 18 lines per inch pattern to give it an executive look.

Slender Forearm

The gun has a slender forearm or forend, which makes the gun light and easy to handle, move around and lend in the air. This forend features ergonomic wood construction that offers a perfect grip making the gun stable in your hand for better shooting accuracy.

Adjustable Stock

The stock comes with six shims that fit between the head of the stock and the receiver’s rear, which helps you easily adjust the height and cast off the shaft. Three of the shims will help you adjust the stock’s height only while the other three will adjust both height and cast.

The Two Loading Options

When you go purchasing the A5 sweet sixteen, you will have to check or ask about the gun’s loading options available during the trials. First, there is the normal option for semi-auto guns where you drop the shell into the ejection port and push the bolt-closing button and then place the next shell into the magazine. The second option is the Browning’s speed loading plus where you feed the first shell into the magazine, which it automatically chambers and the closes the bolt.

Upon confirmation of the above features, you will be sure that you are settling for a genuine A5 sweet sixteen shotgun. Let us now see the advantages of getting the new A5 sweet sixteen shotgun below.

What I Love about it

• Smaller, lighter receiver for reduced weight.
• It offers a sleek feel in your hands.
• It is made entirely of steel with wooden stock for durability.
• Attractive and good looking.
• Comes packaged in an ABS case with storage holes to hold the disassembled gun.
• The Inflex II recoil pad at the end of the stock improves its looks and reduces snagging on your cloth.
• Kinematic drive system.

What I Don’t Like

• The supplied shims don’t quickly move the barrel up enough to measure.

What is the Difference between the Original Browning Auto-5 and the New Browning A5 Sweet Sixteen?

The original A5 Browning shotgun had some structural and functional differences that set it apart from the new sweet sixteen. While these differences may not be major ones, knowing about them could help you differentiate the two and settle for the sweet sixteen much easier. Let us see what sets them apart below.

Receiver

One distinguishing factor between the standard and the new sweet sixteen would be the receiver. The sweet sixteen’s receiver is hollows out in usually four spots taking shape reminiscent of half-moons. The original one, on the other hand, had a distinctive squared-off humpbacked receiver. The new sweet sixteen’s receiver is of aluminum, which gives it the resilient strength against corrosion. The standard one, on the other hand, had its receiver mostly made of steel.

Barrels

The barrels on the older versions where the barrel ring mounts on the mag tube come with three holes drilled out to ease some weight away. On the other hand, the sweet sixteen enjoys a total barrel dynamics, which helps to extract the overall performance from this revered gauge (g 16).

Feel and Texture

There is a real difference in how the two guns feel, and their texture would easily tell them apart. The old A5 has a thinner wood finish that offers less grip; hence it is less stable in the hands than the new sweet sixteen. The new one has a checkered finish on the stock, making it attractive but sturdy to hold hence more stable in the hands than its predecessor.

Weight

With time the sweet sixteen came into the picture. One of the things that the manufacturers shelved from the older version was some excess weight from the stock and the forearm. This meant that the outcoming sweet sixteen had to weigh lesser than the original one.

‘Sweet Sixteen’ Designation

Initially, all A5 sweet sixteen had the ‘Sweet Sixteen’ designation inscribed on the receiver’s left side, which automatically reminded you that you were holding a sweet sixteen shotgun. However, over the years, the new sweet sixteen has evolved, and the guns have been refinished with the latest ones having the designation removed.

Safety

The older versions had the safety pins on the trigger guard’s front that slid back and forth through the trigger guard. These initial safety pins were considered unsafe, and they had to be replaced with at least two subsequent safety styles in the latest version. So essentially, the new sweet sixteen offers safer operations than what the old version did.

Shooting the New A5 Sweet Sixteen

After settling for the sweet sixteen shotguns, you have many expectations running in your mind about how the gun is going to function. The shooting experience can be very smooth and fun when you do everything right. So let us find out what happens after the purchase deal is sealed.

When bought, the gun comes out of the box very dry. After a few shots, it may start to fail to cycle the shells. The perfect shells you can consider for this gun include the Fiocchi 1-oz number 8. They offer a maximum speed of up to 1.156 fps, which are lighter for increased air velocity. Since the gun comes out when dry, you may consider applying some oil to smoothen the shooting process.

Convenience

I believe the speed loading gun plus feature would be more convenient than the standard option for semi-auto shotguns to load the gun. The gun’s trigger pull will appear a bit heavier than the overall weight of the gun. It weighs about 6.25 pounds, which is still a bearable weight for an entire operation. The trigger has a bit of creep, but its likely you won’t feel it because of the heavy trigger pull.

If you have a full face and a short neck, the sweet sixteen’s stock design would be a perfect fit. The drop of 1.75 inches at the nose area on the stock helps you better view the hump. If you do not have the full face and short neck, you have to lift your face over the stock.

Comfortably expect a perfectly stable operation despite the gun being delightfully light for field carry. It doesn’t whip about when shooting thanks to its long barrel. The gun comes packaged in a black ABS take-down case, ideal for car travel but not for demanding travel escapades.

It comes with the two extra chokes and wrench, stock lengths, spacers, cable trigger lock, manual, and six height shims. Its manual is unique as it gives you a detailed guide on how to use the gun. This ensures you have a comfortable time during the assembling and disassembling of the firearm.

Most Popular Browning Sweet 16 Accessories

Final Verdict

The Browning sweet sixteen is a revolutionary gun with outstanding features that will meet your expectations and exceed them. Mainly used for hunting, the sweet sixteen will improve your success score in the fields. Remember to have extra magazines for convenience during your hunts; this helps you reduce wastage of time refilling the magazine.

Do not forget to check out the features that define a modern sweet sixteen before making a purchase. Ensure you check the inertia action, new DS screw chokes, detachable trigger, and adjustable stock, among other features. Do not keep waiting any longer; get yourself a new sweet sixteen shotgun and join the rest in enjoying this gun’s excellent features.

Breaking News Bucks

Records in the whitetail world are not easy to topple. Each year there are a few contenders, but for one reason or another they commonly fall short. A broken tine, mass that tapers off or mismatched sides have all dashed some hunters’ hopes over the years. Such is the trophy hunting game. Truthfully, while many of us yearn to take the biggest of the big, it is not easy.

There are few true giants to begin with, and whitetails reaching that status rarely walk out and surrender! You might hunt your whole life and never get an opportunity to take one. But we can dream, right? A million to one is still a chance!

So, what is the probability that two Alabama hunters would set new state records in the same season using primitive weapons? Maybe the answer lies in knowing how they did it.

Michael Perry’s Non-Typical

Let’s start with Michael Perry’s story. Michael hunts public land almost exclusively. He knows a lot about Black Warrior WMA because he’s hunted there for years and walks miles into the 90,000 acres seeking good deer. That extra effort pays off.

In 2019, he spotted signs of a good buck using an area with a heavy thicket near a creek. It was far enough off the road that he figured other hunters wouldn’t find it, so he hung a camera and moved on.

There is the first clue: Get far away from the pressure.

Hunting other areas kept Michael busy that season, and he never got back to check that camera. When he checked the camera the following spring, there was a good buck in there; and one daylight picture from the previous November. Again he left the camera, and in 2020 there were more pictures.

The deer was now a solid 160- class buck, and Michael set out to get him. He hunted the area a few times without success before leaving for greener pastures. The next time he checked the camera, he realized that he had missed seeing the deer by one day.

Clue two: Timing is everything.

When 2021 rolled around, Michael had a new plan. He bought a crossbow intending to hunt the buck as much as possible. But his busy schedule always seemed to get in the way, and the early archery season passed without an opportunity to hunt.

His wife, Kathy, had given him a muzzleloader the previous Christmas. Michael had already taken bucks worthy of the Alabama State Records program with rifle and bow, so he decided that he would use the new gun to try for the big deer. There was a five-day muzzleloader season in the first week of November, but work got in the way again, and he missed the first four days. With only one day left to hunt, it was then or never.

Another clue: Hunt whenever you can make the time.

That morning Michael dropped Kathy off in a good area, then he walked in for another hour. The weather was crisp from a light frost, and there was a steady breeze. He hung his stand off to the side of a trail and waited.

The action was slow until 9:30 a.m., when a familiar 3 1/2-year-old buck came by at 20 yards. He was close, but the buck didn’t have a very nice rack. Michael had seen him in trail camera pictures, and usually the bigger buck was right there with him. He let the younger buck pass.

Clue four: Let younger bucks walk.

A few minutes later, the non-typical appeared about 40 yards further out. He was much larger than the year before, and there would be no passing this one.

Michael picked up the muzzleloader and made the historic shot. The buck lurched forward, ran a few yards, and it was over. The new state-record non-typical muzzleloader buck was down!

The 6 1/2-year-old deer has a huge, dark rack with heavy beams, split points, stickers and beading that extends from the bases up onto the brow tines. It scores 196 3/8 inches, besting the previous record holder by more than six inches.

Shane Bailey’s Typical

A self-described turkey hunter who also hunts deer, Shane took the Alabama muzzleloader state-record typical in December of 2021. Shane cut his teeth in Bankhead National Forest, chasing the big birds as a teenager. Deer numbers were low back then, but that time in the woods taught him skills he uses to this day. And he learned a lot about whitetail behavior along the way. He also likes the challenge of hunting with a muzzleloader. Shane has taken many good bucks since those early days, including a 150-class deer in 2019 on Black Warrior WMA. He first encountered that one during the special muzzleloader season and missed it. A week later, he was back for a rifle hunt, killing it in the same area.

Clue five: When you find one, stay after him.

Around that same time, he and his friend, Jay Hardin, began getting pictures of another good deer on a very small tract of private land (only 15 acres). That deer was not living on the property, but his frequent passes through gained their attention. Trail cameras were providing great intel, pinpointing where he traveled and when he was there. But most of the pictures were taken at night. Then just as quickly as he had shown up, the buck was gone.

The sudden disappearance was attributed to a large influx of wild hogs. It got so bad that Jay was shooting them in his yard, and that disturbance probably made the big deer avoid the area. So, back to square one. In all of 2020, the buck was a ghost.

Clue six: It takes time for a plan to come together.

During the summer of 2021, the buck showed up again. He put on a lot more antler, but like most older deer he was mainly nocturnal. There was only one daylight picture of him. That would likely change during the rut, so Shane and Jay started planning for later in the year.

He was moving through very thick cover, but he moved in the same general area every time. This meant dialing in tight because it was hard to see very far. It also required a careful approach to avoid spooking the deer again. They decided to set up on each end of the travel corridor in hopes that one of them would get a shot.

[Shane in crocs with deer –

Clue seven: Plan meticulously and use caution.

On Dec. 23, Shane was at his tree stand an hour before daylight. It was a cool 22 degrees, with a light northeast wind, exactly the conditions he needed. He poured a whole bottle of Tinks 69 scent out just below his stand and headed up the tree.

Clue eight: Go big!

Just after 7:00 a.m. Shane rattled a long sequence, mimicking an all-out battle between two mature bucks. He wanted the big buck to hear it if he was anywhere in the area. That sequence went on and on until his arms hurt. Then, he waited.

Hint nine: No pain, no gain.

After another 45 minutes passed, he rattled again. Since the action had been slow, he began texting Jay. In the middle of a text, he caught a glimpse of a buck running off, followed by a loud snort wheeze close by. Worried he had blown his chance, Shane grabbed his call and answered with a snort wheeze. Then he grunted twice.

Within a few seconds, there was more movement behind him: It was his target buck closing in cautiously! The giant buck stopped behind some pines, then stepped forward enough for Shane to take the shot. Smoke obscured Shane’s view, but after the slow start his hunt was over very quickly. The buck only went a few yards and expired.

Final clue: Be ready for anything!

The buck was big enough to topple the muzzleloader state record set just a year earlier by a slim margin, scoring 170 1/8 gross. The 6×6 rack has great mass and a 19-inch spread. The buck is estimated to be over 6 years old.

In Conclusion

Both hunters beat long odds, taking magnificent mature bucks. Some might say they were lucky, but they also have plenty of other big deer on their walls at home: the rewards for plenty of hard work and a large investment of time.

How long will the new records stand? I guess we will have to wait to see. Last season sure produced more than a few giant whitetails. Maybe another one is out there waiting for you in 2022!

The Tennessee turkey hunting season is almost approaching, and hunters are preparing for an exciting and fulfilling day in nature. The Tennessee Fish and Wildlife Commission changed the season, so hunters must be informed of the new rules if they want to help protect the wild turkey population in the state. The modifications include a later start date, a smaller bag limit, and limitations on when birds may be collected. Despite these modifications, hunters can still anticipate a thrilling season filled with chances to put their abilities to the test and forge relationships with the natural world. This article will examine the seasons, permits, bag restrictions, and other rules for a productive turkey hunting season.

Tennessee Turkey Season 2024

A few changes will be made to Tennessee’s next spring turkey shooting season in 2024 to help the state’s wild turkey population. The season will begin two weeks later than in prior years, and the bag limit has been decreased from three to two birds. The fact that just one of such birds may be captured during the first seven days of the season should also be noted by hunters. The regular season will start the next month and last until the month after the Young Sportsman Hunt, which will take place statewide in that month. With these changes, hunters will be able to enjoy the thrill of turkey hunting while also helping protect the state’s wild turkey population.

TN Spring Turkey Season

Spring Turkey SeasonStart DateEnd Date Young Sportsman8-Apr-239-Apr-23 Shotgun/Archery15-Apr28-May-23

TN Fall Turkey Season

Fall Turkey SeasonStart DateEnd Date Archery24-Sep28-Oct Archery31-Oct4-Nov Shotgun/Archery15-Oct28-Oct

Bag Limits

TN Turkey SeasonBag Limit Spring1 bearded turkey per day Fall1 bearded turkey per county

Bag Restrictions

Spring Turkey: Hunters may take one bearded turkey every day during the spring turkey season, with two bearded turkeys taken throughout the whole hunting period. Only one of the two turkeys, however, can be a Jake. (a male turkey with a beard shorter than 6 inches). The presence of white banding on the wing feathers, tail feathers the same length, a beard longer than 6 inches, or spurs that are at least 1/2 inch long are indicators of an adult gobbler that is legal to harvest. It’s crucial to remember that every turkey taken during the Young Sportsman Hunt counts against the two-turkey quota for the spring season.

Fall Season: In the counties of Bledsoe, Bradley, Crockett, Dyer, Giles, Haywood, Lake, Lauderdale, Lawrence, Lincoln, Loudon, McMinn, Monroe, Polk, Shelby, Tipton, Unicoi, and Wayne, hunting for turkeys in the fall is not permitted.

Turkey Licenses

In Tennessee, you must possess a Sportsman or Hunting and Fishing Combination license and a supplementary license, which varies depending on the hunting gear you use. The complete list of turkey hunting permits is available on the tn.gov website.

Hunting Regulations

• Tennessee’s spring statewide turkey season allows shotguns with No. 4 shot or smaller, longbows, recurve bows, compound bows, and crossbows. Night vision, infrared, and other artificial light equipment are restricted; however, scopes are permitted. During the season, hunters may utilize Airbows to fire arrows.

• Hunting is only permitted from 30 minutes before dawn until legal dusk.

• Turkey’s hunting prohibits rifles, pistols, electronic calls, live decoys, and ammunition bigger than No. 4 shot. Baiting is prohibited. Dyer, Haywood, Lauderdale, Obion, Shelby, and Tipton restrict boat-based turkey hunting. The General Regulations list forbidden activities.

• Tennessee spring turkey hunting has these restrictions. A licensed hunter may help a permit holder but cannot have turkey hunting firearms. A 21-year-old non-hunting adult must accompany young Sportsman Hunt participants. Public land-hunted turkeys count against statewide bag limits and must be intact until tagged and turned in. WMAs prohibit turkey farming.

• Some Wildlife Management Areas (WMAs) limit turkey hunting dates or quotas. All WMAs restrict turkey calling from March 1 until spring turkey hunts.

• An adult gobbler must have one of these: a beard longer than 6 inches, equal-length tail feathers, a spur at least 1/2 inch long, or wing feathers with white barring to the tip.

FAQs related to Tennessee Turkey Hunting Season

Massachusetts hunters are preparing for the approaching spring turkey season. Subject to limitations, the season will last for several weeks and include the Youth Turkey Hunt Day. This article will go through the specifics of the Massachusetts turkey season, including crucial dates, rules, and advice on a productive hunt. So gather your supplies, and let’s begin!

Massachusetts Turkey Season 2024

During this season, a hunting or sports license, a turkey permit, and three turkey tags are needed to hunt wild turkeys in Massachusetts. For the eleventh season, beginning in April, turkey hunting will also be permitted on Cape Cod National Seashore.

MA Youth Turkey Season

MA Youth Turkey SeasonSeason Start DateSeason End Date Big Game Zones 1-13 (Youth Hunt:)22-Apr22-Apr

MA Spring Turkey Season

MA Sping Turkey SeasonSeason Start DateSeason End Date Big Game (Zones 1-13)24-Apr20-May

MA Fall Turkey Season

MA Fall Turkey SeasonHunting Season Start DateHunting Season End Date Big Game (Zones 10-13***)2-Oct25-Nov Big Game (Zones 1-9***)16-Oct25-Nov

From October 16 through October 28, 2024, hunters may use shotguns, muzzleloading shotguns, and archery tools during the autumn turkey hunting season in wildlife management zones 1 through 13. However, only archery gear is permitted during specific times of the fall season. The tables that are presented offer further information on these times.

Permitted EquipmentStart DatesEnd Dates WMZ 1-9 No fall turkey hunting2-Oct14-Oct Shotgun, muzzleloading16-Oct28-Oct Archery only30-Oct25-Nov WMZ 10-13 Archery only2-Oct14-Oct Shotgun, muzzleloading, archery16-Oct28-Oct Archery only30-Oct25-Nov

Bag Limits

SeasonBag LimitNotes Spring2 bearded birds2 birds may be harvested on the same day Fall1 turkey of either sex

Turkey Licenses

LicensesFees Turkey Permit, Resident$10.00 Turkey Permit, Non-resident$15.00 Resident Hunting$29.50 Resident Hunting (Age 65-69)$14.75

Note: For the entire Hunting license list, view it on the mass.gov website

Hunting Regulations

• Massachusetts turkey hunters need licenses and permits. Massachusetts requires a Hunting or Sporting License, a Turkey permit, and a Safety sticker. Non-residents require a Big game license, Turkey permission, and a Safety sticker. Turkey hunting with a shotgun or muzzleloader requires a safety sticker. Sighting down the barrel requires this sticker. Visit any MassWildlife office or contact [email protected] to get a new sticker.

• Turkey hunting equipment rules vary in spring. Shotgun hunting is limited to gauge 10 and shot size #4. Smoothbore shotguns may only be.775 calibers and #4 shot size for muzzleloader hunting. Archery equipment must have a draw weight of at least 40 lbs at 28 inches or peak draw and well-sharpened steel broadhead blades of at least 7/8 inches. Expanding broadheads and portable releases are permitted, but airbows are not. Permitted disabled hunters may use crossbows.

• During the autumn turkey season in Massachusetts, hunters must wear blaze orange caps in Wildlife Management Areas stocked with pheasants or quail.

• Massachusetts, licensed turkey hunters may call turkeys for other hunters but cannot carry firearms or archery equipment if they have surpassed the season limit. Even without tags, the caller needs a license and Turkey permission. Massachusetts turkey hunters cannot utilize electronic calls, dogs, bait, drive or herd birds, or live decoys.

• Hunters must rescue and utilize dead or injured game animals. The animal must be maintained or sent to someone else for processing. Damaged, decaying, ill, or contaminated animals are exempt from this regulation.

• Massachusetts residents must report turkey harvests within 48 hours at a check station or online via MassFishHunt. After harvesting the turkey, you must affix the paper tag from your permit to the carcass and keep it intact until it is reported and processed for food or taxidermy. Online harvesters must put their confirmation number on the carcass tag.

• Massachusetts has spring and fall turkey seasons. Spring runs from the final Monday of April to the fourth Saturday. Wildlife management zones (WMZs) affect fall. WMZ 1-9’s season runs from the 6th Monday before Thanksgiving to the Saturday after. WMZ 10-13’s season runs from the 8th Monday before Thanksgiving to the Saturday after. Sunday hunting is prohibited. There is a special kids’ turkey hunt on the Saturday before spring. This hunt requires the young turkey program and Basic hunter education.

Note: For Complete Massachusetts Turkey hunting regulation, you review the Commonwealth of Massachusetts website

FAQ: Turkey Season in Massachusetts

Hunting requires considerable self-control, perseverance, and a firm foundation. Beginners should therefore understand that hunting is complex and that they must learn skills and techniques from experienced hunters. It is far better to begin your hunting adventures with a solid grasp of hunting fundamentals, which will unquestionably improve your hunting abilities and success rate.

Therefore, we have compiled the best hunting information in one article to help hunters. Laying a solid foundation with the knowledge you learn from this will enable you to go on to more challenging hunts and techniques. With each hunt, you will sharpen your focus and gain more knowledge of the natural world.

Hunting Licenses

It is Illegal to hunt without a valid license. Depending on the animal or bird you plan to pursue, there are some situations where you require more than one license. It is imperative to purchase a hunting license to hunt wisely, morally, and responsibly.

Get your tags for hunting: This is true while hunting for a large animal like an elk, a deer, a buck, etc. Each species has a tag that allows you to pursue a particular animal for a set amount of time.

Hunting Regulations 

The majority of seasoned hunters keep themselves informed of state regulations pertaining to hunting rules. Remember that these laws are updated annually because hunting regulations vary from state to state. You can learn about forthcoming hunting season dates, licensing requirements, fees, and other restrictions by studying various state regulations. When reading the rules, you should pay more attention to the region and the species you can hunt.

Hunter Traits

There are certain practices that hunters still do today that have been handed down through the years. We have known for a very long time that animals rely on their senses of hearing and smell. As a result, we have adapted particular features to obscure those senses:

First, conceal your body odor with light, simple soaps while keeping your clothes stuffed with pine needles and leaves. Learn how to lure animals with the best bait or other attractants. Second, refrain from making quick, loud movements if you produce loud noises when pursuing close to an animal habitat; learn to stay calm and pause for a while.

Choosing the Right Ammo

An often overlooked but vital aspect of preparing for a hunt is the selection of appropriate ammunition. The ammo you choose can significantly influence the success of your hunt. It’s not just about the caliber; you need to consider the bullet type and weight as well, which can vary depending on the animal you’re targeting. For example, you might need a 150-grain .308 bullet for deer hunting, but a larger caliber for elk or bear. One should conduct a thorough research on the ammo needed for specific hunts, taking into account factors such as the range you’ll be shooting from, and the size and behavior of the animal.

A cost-effective and practical way to ensure you have enough ammunition for practice and the real hunt is to buy in bulk. Bulk ammo not only saves money in the long run, but it also guarantees consistency in your shots, since all the rounds come from the same manufacturing lot. For instance, purchasing bulk 308 ammo will assure you have a consistent supply for your hunting trips and target practices. Another example is the 223 bulk ammo, which is commonly used in varmint hunting due to its accuracy and effectiveness. Remember, it’s essential to familiarize yourself with your chosen ammunition by spending ample time at the shooting range before your hunt. This familiarity will enhance your confidence, accuracy, and overall hunting experience.

Weapon Handling

Bow hunting and firearm hunting are the two types of weapons available to hunters. Both have particular benefits and drawbacks. However, you should learn to approach both weapons with caution, and you should only ever point your weapon at your intended target. Lastly, continue to wear your safety until you are ready to fire. 

Nowadays, we can see the increasing number of crossbow hunting as it requires more experience and skill set. Also, in most places, bow hunting lasts longer than rifle hunting. So if you are looking for your new hunting crossbow, you can check out our list of the best and fastest crossbows available today.

Knowing how to handle your weapon prevents encounters where your hunting abilities let you down. A perfect shot from a secure position is necessary for a hunt to be successful. You must dedicate time to practicing months before the opening day: By practicing diligently, you can immediately determine how excellent you are at them and what areas of your rehearsal need work.

Research About Animals

The various animal species in your area are one of the first things you learn and comprehend. You can hunt a wide variety of animals, but with the appropriate approach, you can identify and take down the particular animal you want. Researching their strengths, weaknesses, behavior, where they eat and sleep, what they consume, the form of their footprints, and other factors will be necessary.

Maps and Layouts

Your precise, applicable hunting plans should begin during the map session. The geography, terrain, distance, closest roads, etc., may all be found on a good map or Google Maps. This knowledge can improve your chances of having a successful hunt. Maps also give information about the vegetation, which can help you focus your search.

In dense terrain, using an offline map can be a smart move. You can utilize saved maps on your phone instead of the GPS when using offline mapping.

Conclusion

You can prevent making careless errors by paying attention to these suggestions. To guarantee safety and a successful hunt, always abide by the above advice.

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