When it comes to accuracy in archery and hunting, crossbows have earned a strong reputation. These versatile weapons are known for their precision, which stems from several key factors. Crossbows are designed with a fixed stock and a mechanical system, inherently contributing to their accuracy. This stability and consistent design make them a reliable choice for both beginners and experienced archers. However, it’s important to note that crossbow accuracy can vary depending on various factors, including the quality of the crossbow itself, the skill level of the shooter, and the type of bolts used. Many crossbow models also come equipped with optics such as scopes to further enhance accuracy and increase the shooter’s chances of hitting the target with precision.

Are Crossbows More Accurate Than Compound Bows?

The comparison between crossbows and compound bows in terms of accuracy brings to light some interesting nuances. Crossbows are often regarded as more user-friendly, particularly for beginners, thanks to their fixed stock and straightforward operation. This inherent stability and simplicity make it easier for newcomers to achieve accuracy in their shots.

In contrast, compound bows, characterized by their pulley systems, offer their own advantages in terms of accuracy. However, they may require a higher level of skill to consistently maintain accuracy due to the added complexity of the bow’s mechanics. The choice between crossbows and compound bows often boils down to personal preference, shooting style, and the individual shooter’s comfort level with each type of weapon.

Is A Crossbow Accurate At 100 Yards?

One common question that arises when discussing crossbow accuracy is whether these weapons can deliver accurate shots at long distances, such as 100 yards. The answer is yes, crossbows are indeed capable of achieving accurate shots at such extended ranges. However, several critical factors come into play to achieve this level of accuracy. First and foremost is the shooter’s level of experience and proficiency with the crossbow. A skilled shooter is better equipped to make precise shots at longer distances. Additionally, the quality of the crossbow itself plays a significant role. High-quality crossbows are designed with accuracy in mind, often featuring advanced technology and craftsmanship. Finally, the type of optics or scopes used on the crossbow can greatly enhance accuracy at extended ranges. While 100-yard shots are technically possible with a crossbow, most hunters prefer to take shots within 50 yards or less to ensure better accuracy and more ethical hunting.

What Is The Average Distance To Sight In A Crossbow?

Determining the ideal sighting distance for a crossbow is a crucial step in maximizing accuracy. The average distance to sight in a crossbow can vary based on individual preferences and the intended use of the weapon. However, a common sighting distance range typically falls between 20 to 40 yards. Sighting in a crossbow within this range offers a balanced compromise between accuracy at various distances. Some crossbow hunters may choose to sight in at longer distances if they frequently take shots at extended ranges. Ultimately, the sighting distance should align with the shooter’s skill level and the typical hunting conditions they encounter.

How Close Should You Be To Your Target When Taking A Shot With A Crossbow?

Determining the appropriate shooting distance with a crossbow depends on a variety of factors, including the shooter’s experience and the equipment being used. For beginners or those new to crossbow shooting, shots within the range of 20 to 40 yards are often recommended. This distance range maximizes accuracy and minimizes the risk of wounding rather than cleanly harvesting game. More experienced shooters, especially those equipped with high-end crossbows and advanced optics, may consider taking shots at targets up to 60 yards away. However, it’s essential to remember that ethical hunting practices prioritize clean and humane shots, so shooters should only take shots they are confident they can make accurately.

Conclusion

In summary, crossbows are esteemed for their precision in both archery and hunting, offering a compelling alternative to compound bows, each with its distinct advantages. While crossbows can achieve impressive accuracy at distances of up to 100 yards, the sweet spot for sighting typically ranges between 20 to 40 yards, influenced by individual preferences and hunting scenarios. It’s essential to note that a crossbow’s accuracy hinges not only on the weapon itself but also on the shooter’s expertise and the quality of accessories, such as scopes. Ultimately, mastering the art of accurate shooting with a crossbow demands dedicated practice, valuable experience, and an in-depth understanding of the weapon’s capabilities.

There’s no doubt about Gaston Glock’s pistol, it’s a good gun.

But can it be better?

Absolutely.

One of the most obvious improvements would be an upgraded trigger system. There are roughly a million different upgrades for the trigger out there…so how do you choose?

That’s where we come in…we’ve bought, used, and tested the most popular triggers over thousands of rounds.

Obligatory disclaimer that you should have a qualified gunsmith install and test all this stuff.

THE QUICK LIST

Stock Glock with 25 Cent Trigger Job & 3.5 lb Connector

Let’s establish a baseline trigger.

Many will say to get a better Glock trigger, you just have to shoot it. And they are right.

Thousands and thousands of rounds (or dry-fire) will polish up the internals and make the trigger much better. Not custom 1911 level…but better than when you bought it.

We cover how to do the infamous Glock 25 Cent Trigger Job with some polishing compound and Dremel.

Another affordable upgrade I do is upgrading the stock 5 lb connector with a Lone Wolf or Ghost 3.5 lb connector. If you built a Polymer80 Glock with a Lone Wolf frame kit…you already have the 3.5 lb connector.

Doing both in my G19 brings the trigger pull down from around 6 lb 6 oz to 5 lb 4 oz and makes it much crisper and with a smoother reset. Perfect for general purpose and maintaining the stock safeties.

Here’s a quick video on the first pull and reset so we have a baseline for the others.

Perfectly manageable, but still room for improvement!

Best Glock Triggers

1. Apex Tactical Glock Enhancement Trigger

Apex is well known for improving the turd of a trigger that comes on Smith and Wesson M&Ps, especially the first models that hit the streets. Obviously, they’ve expanded, or they wouldn’t be on this list.

Apex’s Glock Enhancement Trigger came out a few years ago and is one of the most affordable drop-in trigger systems.

When I say drop-in trigger…I mean it.

It’s a self-contained system with a trigger, trigger bar, and disconnector all built together. You remove your standard Glock guts and fill in the blank. It’s a very simple installation process and very convenient.

The Apex trigger gives you a quick stop initially, so you know when to ease and squeeze the trigger. There’s some minor pull before a clean break.

Also, a much shorter reset that’s followed by a similar pull and clean break again.

Red not doing it for you…they have purple and black too.

One big difference is the flat-faced trigger that still maintains the safety features of the standard Glock. I definitely like flat-faced triggers after using the Apex a bunch. It’s also a little meatier than the other triggers, which I like.

You can combine upgrades with the Zev Competition Spring kit, which I heavily recommend. With it and a polish job…my trigger pull is 5 lb 7 oz and much smoother.

However, I found with mine that I got light primer strikes with the use of the reduced weight striker spring. So be sure to test.

If that happens to you…you might need the Zev Skeletonized Striker ($79) to take full advantage of the springs.

The Apex Glock trigger is my pick for best bang-for-the-buck since it looks cool, is reliable, improves upon the stock trigger, and is priced right.

What’s your take on the Apex trigger? Rate it below.

2. Velocity Trigger

This Velocity Trigger I got sent for testing, and I put it in a new Polymer 80 build with a SeeAll Sight and matching gold Faxon Barrel.

It’s much thinner than the Apex or stock Glock trigger. The flat-faced trigger is also ridged for your finger’s pleasure with a lower-activating safety.

With stock springs and only a 3.5 connector, I was getting 4 lb 12 oz. With the competition spring kit…it should go down some more.

However…one big thing I didn’t like was that in my P80 build and my style of pressing the trigger (pretty high up with thin fingers)…many times, the “safe-action” trigger wouldn’t engage. And I’d be left with no PEW.

Whatever at the range…annoying at a competition…but potentially deadly in a real-life encounter. Not that I would recommend having anything modified on your gun for self-defense.

Otherwise, the trigger was great…longer pull after the initial stop and a nice click.

I would recommend for competition/range if you’re finger placement is usually on the lower half of the trigger or if you have thicker fingers than I do.

3. Overwatch Precision Trigger

The Overwatch Precision is from another P80 build. It also has the competition spring kit.

With everything…I get a super soft 2 lb 12 oz trigger pull. However…it’s pretty spongy when compared to the other triggers. Nice reset, though.

But…runs into the same safety reset problem as with the Velocity (so make sure you press lower or have thicker fingers).

My pick if you really want a light trigger pull throughout. I personally prefer less spongy (even at the expense of pull-weight), so this is my least favorite trigger out of all the series.

4. Zev Fulcrum Ultimate Trigger

My favorite trigger that lives in my G34 for competition shooting. What I’ve shot the most besides stock Glock triggers.

It breaks the cleanest without a lot of pre-travel and no mushiness. Combined with a little 25-cent trigger job polishing and the lightest springs…it comes in at under 3 lb 10 oz.

It’s not much to look at when installed…but the kit comes with an entirely new trigger assembly, lightened springs, and lightened striker (or else sometimes, when you only change springs, you get light primer strikes).

Plus…adjustable pre-travel and over-travel to get YOUR perfect trigger pull. This all comes at a price, though!

5. Tyrant CNC ITTS Trigger

Want a nicer-looking trigger but don’t want to change your trigger pull?

You can check out the Tyrant CNC ITTS Trigger, which replaces the trigger shoe with something purrty.

Easy enough to install with instructions right here.

It keeps your original trigger pull for safety reasons but makes your Glock look a whole lot better!

And while it doesn’t change the performance of the pull, that machined aluminum sure does feel nice. They come in different color combinations too!

6. Timney Alpha Glock 5

First off, I like the Gen 5 Glock trigger and consider it to be a significant improvement over previous generations.

Pressing back on the trigger, it travels back a few millimeters with minor resistance before stopping at a pretty well-defined wall. Pushing beyond this, the trigger breaks crisply at an average of around 4 pounds on my Lyman Digital Gauge.

Reset occurs after a slight release and is both audible and tactile. It’s a great trigger for a striker-fired gun, and I have definitely gotten used to it.

Given Timney’s overall reputation in triggers, I was excited to try the Alpha Glock 5. So I cracked open the package and started putting it in.

Installation was a little challenging due to the small parts, but the instructions were detailed and included good photos. Then, the trigger return spring has to be compressed on the inside of the locking block while installing the locking block.

After installing, I noticed the surface of the all-aluminum trigger shoe was smoother, and the interface with the safety bar in the trigger was also smoother.

The pull weight felt lighter, and I confirmed this on the gauge at an average of 2.5 pounds.

During press, the previously defined wall before break felt softer. And finally, trigger reset felt a bit longer to reach but was still audible and tactile.

Out at the range, the trigger truly shines with a performance you soon become accustomed to and can repeat easily. It’s a great upgrade for around $150.

Honorable Mentions

There are a lot of Glock triggers. Here are some honorable mentions:

• Agency Arms ($160): Pretty good as well…but I’d still take the Apex with the spring kit. Personal preference, though…tons of people love it.
• Lone Wolf Adjustable ($75): The P80 kit trigger is actually pretty good…and this adjustable upgrade is not too shabby either.
• CMC Trigger ($170): Another popular one, but was meh to me when I tried it.

Final Thoughts

We can all agree that sometimes swapping out a Glock factory trigger for something a little nicer can make all the difference when it comes to shooting.

And hopefully, we’ve given you some options to kick your Glock up a notch.

How did we do…what other triggers did we miss that we can test for the next update? Let us know. For a perfect trigger tune-up, make sure to grab a trigger pull gauge. We have our recommendations here!

Dogs are considered man’s best friend for a number of reasons; they are loyal, loving, affectionate, and they can be trained to do amazing things. Police departments and law officials use them to locate narcotics, firearms, and explosives with their keen sense of smell. But did you know that dogs can help you find antler sheds as well? If you’re interested in training your dog to find antlers, continue reading and I’ll tell you how you can train them to become your new favorite shed hunting buddy.

Benefits of Using a Dog To Find Antlers

• A dog’s sense of smell is far superior to that of a human’s. Using their nose, they can sniff out and locate shed antlers that people like you and me wouldn’t be able to find.
• Dogs are able to get into thick, dense brush to retrieve antlers.
• It’s a heck of a lot more fun taking a dog with you to hunt for sheds than doing it alone!

My Antler-Hunting Dog

Let me first start off by saying that I’m not a professional dog trainer, and when I got my Golden Labrador Retriever, Jesse, I had no intention of training her to become a shed-hunting dog. In fact, I originally wasn’t even aware people trained dogs to find antlers. Not long after getting her, though, one of my hunting buddies saw my dog and was telling me about how he had seen someone train their Lab to sniff out sheds in the woods. With this knowledge at hand, I thought I might as well try and train Jesse. After all, the only thing I had to lose was time, and I enjoyed spending time with Jesse.

After talking with some people who trained their dogs to find antlers, and scouring the internet for advice on training Labradors, I had a good idea of how to train her. What I didn’t know, though, was just how quickly she would catch on. Jesse now goes on every antler hunt I go on and is almost certain to find more sheds than I do. Anytime I bring along buddies or guests on shed-hunting trips, they are always amazed at her uncanny ability to find sheds.

Which Breeds Are The Best Shed Hunters?

I’ve only trained my Lab, Jesse, to find sheds, so I really can’t say what the best shed-hunting breed is. I do know Labrador Retrievers are one of the most popular breeds for this because of their intelligence, sense of smell and ability to obey commands. I’ve also heard that Dachshunds can be trained to be effective shed hunters.

The most important thing, though, is making sure your dog will obey and follow your commands in the woods. Dogs that run off at the sight of a squirrel or any other animal create a dangerous situation.

The Basics of Training

Before you start, you’re going to need lots of treats (milk biscuits work well) and lots of antlers. You can either go out and try to find some sheds in the woods, or you can buy them online. Remember, only authentic antlers work, as fake ones don’t carry the same scent and feel. Try to get ones that are fresh and not completely sun bleached or dried out. Old antlers are likely to have lost a significant portion of their scent, making it difficult for your dog to locate them by smell.

Step #1 – Introducing Deer Antlers

You’ll want to give deer antlers to your dog as early as possible to get them used to the look, feel, and scent that they give off. This is one of the keys to successfully training your dog to find sheds in the wild. Try tossing some deer antler sheds out in the yard and say a command, such as “go get it” or “get the antlers.” If your dog obeys your command and successfully retrieves the antlers, give them a treat followed by lots of petting and praise. Positive reinforcement goes a long way when it comes to any form of dog training and/or obedience.

Don’t worry if your dog won’t immediately go after the antler. You may need to get them used to playing with it by putting it under their nose and almost teasing them with it. This shouldn’t be difficult, as most dogs will grow fond of playing antlers pretty quickly. Dogs instinctively love to fetch items thrown by their owners, so toss them out in the yard and let them chase them. Once they bring it back, give them a treat.

Step #2 – Hide-And-Seek

Once your dog is accustomed to the scent of deer antlers, it’s time to step up its training to the next level. Assuming you have access to some woods or a forest, hide a couple of them in moderately difficult areas. Place them underneath some leaves about 30 to 40 yards apart and give your dog the fetch command that you’ve previously trained them with.

If they don’t immediately go after the antlers, which they probably won’t on their first try, just walk over to the areas with the antlers and see if your dog can sense it. When they’ve found it, them a treat and lots of praise. Keep doing this once a day and you should see start to see improvements in how fast your dog is able to uncover the antlers.

Step #3 – The “Real” Thing

Once your dog has some training under their belt, it’s time to take them out on a real antler hunt with you. Just go about your search as you normally would, walking down trails and scanning your surroundings. Hopefully, your dog will pick up on the scent of a nearby shed and follow it. Keep your dog in sight and call them back if they try to run off without you. Once they find an antler, continue with the reward and praise. Alternatively, if you see an antler that your dog doesn’t, say the fetch command and let them uncover it.

That’s really all there is to training your dog to find antlers. Just keep taking your dog out there on your hunts and give them the opportunity to find the sheds. Keep rewarding your dog when they make a find and before you know it, your dog will be uncovering sheds left and right.

Tips For Training Your Dog To Find Antlers

• Always be positive and reward your dog with a treat and praise when they find an antler. If they don’t find anything, don’t punish or scold them.
• Keep your training sessions short. Typically, a single 20-to-30-minute session per day is more than enough needed to train.
• Let your dog play with antlers and use them as chew toys. Not only will this allow them to get used to the antlers, but antlers contain beneficial nutrients like calcium.
• Always keep your dog in sight, and if they run too far away, call them back. It’s dangerous for dogs to chase after animals in the woods.
• If you haven’t done so already, you’ll want to train your dog basic commands, such as sit, stay and come. This will help make sure your dog is obedient and will obey your commands when you’re out in the woods.

Video of Zeke Learning How To Find Antler Sheds

The following ammunition cartridge ballistics information and chart can be used to approximately compare .30-30 Winchester vs .308 Winchester ammo rounds. Please note, the following information reflects the estimated average ballistics for each caliber and does not pertain to a particular manufacturer, bullet weight, or jacketing type. As such, the following is for comparative information purposes only and should not be used to make precise predictions of the trajectory, performance, or true ballistics of any particular .30-30 Winchester or .308 Winchester rounds for hunting, target shooting, plinking, or any other usage. The decision for which round is better for a given application should be made with complete information, and this article simply serves as a comparative guide, not the final say. For more detailed ballistics information please refer to the exact round in question or contact the manufacturer for the pertinent information. True .30-30 Winchester and .308 Winchester ballistics information can vary widely from the displayed information, and it is important to understand that the particular characteristics of a given round can make a substantive difference in its true performance.

Caliber Type Velocity (fps) Energy (ft-lb) .30-30 Winchester Rifle 2370 1890 .308 Winchester Rifle 2680 2620

Velocity

As illustrated in the chart, .30-30 Winchester rounds – on average – achieve a velocity of about 2370 feet per second (fps) while .308 Winchester rounds travel at a velocity of 2680 fps. To put this into perspective, a Boeing 737 commercial airliner travels at a cruising speed of 600 mph, or 880 fps. That is to say, .30-30 Winchester bullets travel 2.7 times the speed of a 737 airplane at cruising speed, while .308 Winchester bullets travel 3 times that same speed.

Various calibers

Energy

Furthermore, the muzzle energy of a .30-30 Winchester round averages out to 1890 ft-lb, while a .308 Winchester round averages out to about 2620 ft-lb. One way to think about this is as such: a foot-pound is a unit of energy equal to the amount of energy required to raise a weight of one pound a distance of one foot. So a .30-30 Winchester round exits the barrel with kinetic energy equal to the energy required for linear vertical displacement of 1890 pounds through a one foot distance, while a .308 Winchester round exiting the barrel has energy equal to the amount required to displace 2620 pounds over the same one foot distance. As a rule of thumb, when it comes to hunting, muzzle energy is what many hunters look at when deciding on what caliber of firearm / ammunition to select. Generally speaking, the higher the muzzle energy, the higher the stopping power. Again, the above is for comparative information purposes only, and you should consult the exact ballistics for the particular .30-30 Winchester or .308 Winchester cartridge you’re looking at purchasing.

Please click the above links to take a look at all of the .30-30 Winchester and .308 Winchester ammo we have in stock and ready to ship, and let us know any parting thoughts in the comment section below.

Foundry Outdoors is your trusted home for buying archery, camping, fishing, hunting, shooting sports, and outdoor gear online.

We offer cheap ammo and bulk ammo deals on the most popular ammo calibers. We have a variety of deals on Rifle Ammo, Handgun Ammo, Shotgun Ammo & Rimfire Ammo, as well as ammo for target practice, plinking, hunting, or shooting competitions. Our website lists special deals on 9mm Ammo, 10mm Ammo, 45-70 Ammo, 6.5 Creedmoor ammo, 300 Blackout Ammo, 10mm Ammo, 5.56 Ammo, Underwood Ammo, Buffalo Bore Ammo and more special deals on bulk ammo.

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LOGAN, W.Va. — Although the West Virginia elk herd is growing and healthy, the top man overseeing the reintroduction project cautioned it’s way too early to be talking about any kind of elk hunting opportunities in the Mountain State.

“It could actually set us back if we jumped on that too early,” said Randy Kelley, Elk Project Leader for the West Virginia Division of Natural Resources in a recent conversation on West Virginia Outdoors.

Although nothing has been officially discussed, some sportsmen have openly shared the idea on social media of a limited hunt for some of the bulls in southern West Virginia. Kelley warned even a limited hunt for males only at this point in the reintroduction process could be detrimental.

“It really messes with your herd dynamics because if somebody gets a bull tag, they’re going to want to take the big, mature bulls. But probably less than 30 percent of our herd is in that prime 5 to 9 year old breeding age. By removing those bulls of breeding age, you change the herd dynamics,” he explained.

Due to concerns about predation, it’s desirable the majority of elk calves each spring or summer be born around the same time. When the landscape is flooded by young elk all at once, it lessens the chances of predators taking a higher percentage of those young and vulnerable calves. However, if the most mature and dominant bulls are removed and only the younger, more immature bulls are available during the rut it could delay breeding or cause breeding to be a complete failure without enough big bulls on the ground to get the job done.

Due to so many variables, Kelley was reluctant to put a timeline or a herd population estimate on when a hunt of any kind would be acceptable. Neighboring Virginia just opened up a hunting season this year. Kelley indicated they would be closely watching the results of Virginia’s hunt to help guide decisions on elk management in West Virginia.

“There’s no use to reinvent the wheel. We learn from what others are doing and have done,” he said.

Kelley also revealed work has begun on a couple of university studies involving West Virginia’s elk herd. One of the studies is a cooperative genetics study with West Virginia University. The genetic testing will help reveal which bulls are fathering which calves, predominant breeding, and if any of the genetic traits from the two sources of elk are superior or make a difference in strength and survival.

“We have elk from the Land Between the Lakes and from Arizona. We have DNA from every one we released and that will give us a way to look at the parentage and see who is breeding whom and what’s actually going on on the ground out there with regard to breeding,” he said.

The study data could give a more clear look into any genetic predispositions on survival rates, resistance to parasites or disease, breeding dominance, and a host of other information which will help as the herd grows.

A second study on eastern elk is underway at the University of Tennessee which will enable Kelley and his team to know if an elk is suffering from brain worm before it succumbs to the parasite. Until now, they could only know if brain worm was present after the elk died.

“U.T. has developed a blood test to detect brain worm and we can send them a blood sample and find out if any of our elk have it even if they are showing no symptoms,” he said.

Brain worm has been the single biggest killer of West Virginia elk since the reintroduction began. West Virginia annually loses about four percent to brain worm, but the national average is around six percent. Brain worm is a parasite present in whitetail deer. While it has no effect on deer, it’s become a deadly problem for the elk in the eastern U.S.

As for growing the herd with the translocation of more animals from other states, Kelley wasn’t optimistic.

“Because of CWD, the whole biological community is discouraging any movement of cervids at all at this point,” he explained.

LAST UPDATED: May 8th, 2015

When John Feazell stood in the hunting department at Wal-Mart prior to the 2009 hunting season, he was faced with perhaps the biggest decision of his life. Okay, not really. But he was faced with the decision of whether or not to buy a new grunt call, not just any grunt call, the new Flextone Bone Collector. “I have about 20 different grunt calls at home, so I don’t think I need another” said John, as he put the call back on the shelf and began to meander through the aisles. As he was walking away, however, he recalls, “Something in my head just told me to go back and buy it, so I bought it. I figured that call, capable of the snort-wheeze sound, would work on a mature dominant buck.” Little did John know that his impulsive acquisition of a new grunt call would lead to a new state record in the state of Virginia.

John Feazell harvested this monster Virginia whitetail last fall. With over 220 inches of bone, he is easily the largest whitetail ever taken by bow in Virginia.

Saturday November 7th, 2009 was the second Saturday of the Virginia Muzzleloader season. The evening prior, John headed afield with his Muzzleloader to a spot where he usually experienced good deer activity. Luck was on his side that day, as he harvested a “solid 8 pointer.” The following day he and his father decided to head to their hunting property in Botetourt County, Virginia. Since he had just harvested a nice buck the day before, he lent his Muzzleloader to his father, who does not own one. “I figured I would let my dad use my Muzzleloader since I just shot a good buck. I told him that I had plenty of time left to get a good buck with a bow,” says Feazell.

As much as John Feazell loves whitetail hunting, he says it’s not his favorite animal to hunt. “Turkey hunting is my bread and butter, I live for Spring Gobbler Season,” says Feazell. However, when bow season comes around, he takes the sport very seriously. “I wouldn’t call myself a serious bowhunter, but when I bow hunt, I’m serious,” Feazell aptly describes. “I’m extremely cautious when it comes to my scent, especially. I like to wash my clothes in unscented detergent, dry them in earth scented dryer sheets, then they immediately go in my scent free tote. I leave little room for error when it comes to the whitetail’s nose,” he says. So with bow in hand, Feazell headed to one of his bow stands, since the rest of his hunting party were carrying muzzleloaders. Perched just below the crest of a mountain, Feazell made mention of this being a good place to experience activity as two giant rock formations funnel deer to two different saddles in the ridgeline.

John Feazell with his new state record.

After settling into his stand well before daylight, Feazell sees his first deer at 7:45 a.m. “I see it’s a big bodied deer, but I can’t make out what it is. It takes 5 steps and I see antlers. Oh man, golly what a deer!” The buck, then in the open, broadside at 50 yards and Feazell remembers thinking, “There is no way I am taking the shot, I am not screwing up this deer.”

But just as quickly as he came he was gone. The monster buck had topped over the mountain and out sight. Feazell recalls two sobering thoughts, “First of all, no one is going to believe when I tell them of the buck I just saw, and I just wish I had my muzzleloader.” A little over an hour goes by, and Feazell jokingly remembers contemplating going back to camp and getting a Muzzleloader and “sitting on that mountain for a month, or however long it takes for me to get that buck.” In the meantime a doe and a half racked 4 pointer make their way to Feazell’s location. “That doe came by at 20 yards, and for a split second I thought about drilling her. But I thought don’t be stupid, don’t shoot this doe,” he says.

A truly once-in-a-lifetime buck! From drop tines, to mass, to bladed brow tines, this buck has it all.

Feazell’s will power proved to be strong as he elected to pass on the doe. With the doe and 4 pointer still in sight, he noticed the young buck staring off in one direction, “looking shaky.” Feazell then turns and sees the big buck coming back from behind a Chestnut Oak tree. “No way, there is no way it’s that buck. You just don’t get second chances like this. No way, I’m going to shoot this deer,” Feazell recalls. As the big buck makes his way back towards the younger buck and doe, the doe beds down and Feazell remembers, “I just KNEW that as soon as that doe bedded down, the buck would do the same thing. And, 5 seconds after the doe laid down, the buck plopped down 30 yards behind me.”

Sitting in his ladder stand, Feazell had a limited viewing window of this buck. The bowhunter had to stand for nearly 45 minutes, peaking around the tree his ladder stand was hung on. After time, the younger buck, which had been browsing on acorns, angles from Feazell’s left towards his stand. This grabs the attention of the larger buck, and feeling threatened that this youngster is going to steal his doe, stares down the younger buck before they both eventually shift their attention to the doe.

It was then that Feazell remembered about his grunt call. “If it would ever work in a million years, it will work right now,” he says. Grabbing his Flextone Bone Collector, Feazell calls, and on the second snort-wheeze the larger buck comes to full posture on the younger buck. With ears back and hair bristled, the bruiser buck makes a false charge at the younger buck, and that’s all it took for the younger buck to “get out of dodge.”

The John Feazell buck officially scored 221 2/8″ as a non-typical and was believed to be at least 5 1/2 years old.

Making his way from the Chestnut Oak towards the doe the buck stops at 30 yards broadside. “I’d rather all my shots be 20 yards or less,” Feazell says. “But I’m comfortable out to 30.” With a window the size of a circular dining table to shoot through, Feazell had to bend his knees just a tad to fit the arrow through. He draws releases and misses! The arrow deflects off a small twig and harmlessly flies off. With his entire focus and attention on the doe, the missed shot confuses, but doesn’t alarm the buck. Unaware, of what just had happened the buck settled down, and the doe began to walk away.

Feazell, remembering of another call in his arsenal of gear, grabs his Primos The Great Big Can call and turns it over. The doe then comes back towards the tree stand within 25 yards in Feazell’s shooting lane, before angling back down the mountain. In the meantime, the monster buck began rubbing, or as Feazell put it, “thrashing and tearing up and down” a young Chestnut Oak. In the process the buck had lost sight of his doe.

What a gorgeous whitetail. Fortunately, this buck was harvested by an ethical, hardworking sportsman in John Feazell. Congratulations, John!

Remembering his Flextone Bone Collector call again, Feazell snort-wheezes twice in succession. Immediately the buck’s hairs bristle up and he goes into full posture walking stiff legged broadside. “Two more steps, two more steps,” Feazell recalls will put his buck at 18 yards. Feazell then draws his PSE Firestorm Lite and releases his Carbon Express arrow tipped with a Two-Blade Rage. Thawck! “You drilled him, you drilled him,” Feazell says. Watching his buck tear down the mountainside some 100 yards, Feazell saw his buck begin to stagger then fall down. An avid sportsman, Feazell said he simply couldn’t wait to claim his trophy. “I know about the 30 minute rule on even lethal hits, but I couldn’t help it. I let out a war holler and ran straight down to my buck, I saw him go down,” he says. With a 200+ plus inch deer on the ground within sight, I think we can all forgive Feazell’s eagerness to recover the fallen giant. After having sat and listened to John Feazell tell the story of his buck, I am convinced that it could not have happened to a better person. “I was just meant to kill that deer, it was 99% luck. All the cards had to fall together and they did, the Good Lord just wanted me to kill that deer,” he concluded. The John Feazell Buck ended up officially scoring 221 2/8 Pope & Young inches as a non-typical, making him the biggest buck ever taken by bow in Virginia. With 38 5/8 inches in non-typical points, the buck still grossed 189 2/8 inches as a typical.

When learning about firearms, it’s important to be precise. There’s a wealth of terminology and an even greater number of products on the market.

So when wondering about ammo, simply asking “what bullets do the most damage?” is a vague question.

You must qualify it for it to make sense. For example, a shotgun slug will do far more damage to a barn door than a .22 will do to a pig, yet the .22 caliber has been used in more killings than the shotgun slug.

OK, then what are we talking about here? There are only a few reasons why this conversation would be taking place.

The first is sheer curiosity. Some bullets look pretty gnarly, and naturally you would think they would do severe damage to anything they encounter.

You might wonder why all bullets aren’t made that way. Another reason this discussion might come up is to cause debate amongst friends or in political circles.

The final reason — and the one being addressed here — is if someone is trying to make an informed decision about which rounds best suit home defense or everyday carry needs.

All Bullets Can Be Lethal

Let’s start off with a little cold, hard truth that many people simply don’t like. All bullets are inherently lethal.

Even so-called “non-lethal” or “less-than-lethal” rounds have accidentally killed people.

All bullets are dangerous — in fact, even the use of blank-firing cartridges has led to deaths in some extremely rare cases.

This brings us to the next point: Despite what gun legislation opponents will tell you, no bullet is “designed for the battlefield” and inherently more dangerous than others.

Almost every caliber round has been used somewhere in a theater of war.

While there are some obscure rounds that were never used in battle, there’s honestly no round that is somehow safer than another because the military isn’t currently using it.

This brings up another point worth mentioning: Hollow points and full metal jacket rounds are inherently no different from each other at their most basic level.

They are both projectiles designed to be fired from a gun and can both kill. In fact, for those that think hollow points are somehow more deadly, the U.S. military doesn’t use hollow point ammunition in infantry units.

It uses FMJ. Again, that doesn’t mean they are more deadly. It just means that a bullet is a bullet.

The point here is that there are many misconceptions about different ammunition and the reality is that most of them are conjecture at best and outright lies at worst.

What Constitutes Damage?

When it comes to the measurement of ammunition capabilities, damage is measured in a couple of ways.

First, most rounds are measured by ballistic coefficient. Next, rounds are often judged by penetration ability.

Lastly, damage can be measured by the size of the overall hole left on the object the bullet struck.

Ballistic Coefficient

What exactly is a ballistic coefficient? In the simplest terms, a ballistic coefficient is the ability of the bullet to overcome air resistance in flight.

The better a bullet is able to overcome air resistance as it flies, the more energy it retains through flight.

The more energy the bullet retains over the course of flight, the more energy it has to deliver into the target.

While this isn’t the only thing you should be looking at in terms of judging your potential rounds for the damage they can do, it’s a good indicator that you’re on the right track.

There are other factors involved here too, like the mass of the bullet, but that is a part of the calculation for the ballistic coefficient.

So, as a general rule, the higher the ballistic coefficient number, the more damage the bullet is capable of inflicting.

It doesn’t mean it will — just that it could.

Penetration

This is also a factor that can be misleading. Like the ballistic coefficient, the penetration capability of the round deals with the potential of the round to deliver damage.

Rounds with the ability to penetrate well into the target are more capable of delivering energy into the target.

In older times, to ensure something that was shot was truly shot, manufacturers would try to load as much powder as possible into loads.

This was because some rounds that were made for handguns but that could be fired from rifles — such as the .44 Long Colt — might not actually enter into the target far enough to accomplish the intended goal.

Plus, thick layers of clothing or degrees of distance could cause some rounds to fail at truly damaging an intended target.

This is where a round’s penetration ability became important.

The powder loads were adjusted over time, along with bullet designs and materials used, to ensure a more stable flight path for the round.

This has allowed modern loads to use only enough powder to deliver the round while ensuring it’s able to penetrate the target on arrival.

Now, rather than running the risk of over or under penetration, the rounds are more consistent throughout their journey.

As far as damage is concerned, this penetration ability can translate to larger cavities as the round travels farther into and even through the intended target.

But, as with the other measurements, this factor alone is not a solid judgement of what makes a round do more damage.

The .223/5.56, for example, is known for penetration ability, but there is a ton of evidence of people being shot and having rounds go right through them without them even knowing.

Penetration alone is not enough of a barometer.

Exit Wound/Wound Cavity

Another factor for measuring damage is the size of the wound cavity a round makes and the exit hole it leaves.

Some rounds deliver their energy in such a way that the force pushes through, causing a cavity to form around the bullet.

Most rounds create a cavity much larger than the round itself, so the size of the round is not a factor. What can be important is a combination of the size and other factors as well as the composition of the target.

In addition, when this occurs, it leaves an exit wound with a much larger hole than that of the entry wound.

Again, this one factor alone is not enough to judge which rounds do the most damage.

It’s a combination of all factors, plus the type of gun being used and the conditions at the time of fire.

Rounds are designed to very specific standards and tolerances, and any number of factors can throw them off.

Everything from the weather to the way you hold the gun can negatively impact the ability of the round to perform optimally.

Most Damaging Rounds

So, what does the most damage then?

Which rounds have the best combination of those factors aside from the person pulling the trigger?

However, the answer is simple: It isn’t about what’s best, but rather what’s best for you.

It’s going to depend on what gun you’re using and your purpose for that gun.

Someone going to war has different needs than someone carrying for self-defense. But that said, the most popular calibers of bullets are popular for a reason.

For handguns, you can’t go wrong with a 9mm, a .40 or a .45 caliber. Based on ballistic tests, all these rounds are capable of doing more than enough damage to suit your needs.

Similarly, for rifles, the .223/5.56 rounds, .308, 7.62 x 39mm and even .300 Blackout are all equally damage-inducing depending on application.

The reality of the situation is that for modern uses, there is no one round that does more damage in all situations for all shooters.

They all do fantastic jobs depending on why you’re buying them. Like everything else, it’s situationally driven.

So get out there and find what works best for you; the exploration is the fun part.

Here are 3 Types Of Ax Options (Plus Multiple Reviews) For Off-Roading and Overlanding

As Brenan mentioned in his Every Day Carry article way back in November of ’17, an ax is a great accessory for Overlanding and general camping use. Choosing an ax can be rather daunting. There are a wide variety of designs for both general and specialized purposes.

Much of the selection process comes down to what tasks you want the ax to help you accomplish, and your preferences in construction, quality, and feel. What follows are some quick reviews of axes I’ve used in over the past two decades, as well as some features that may be useful for vehicle-based camping.

What to Consider?

The first thing to consider is what size and type of ax you are looking for.

They come in many different lengths, styles, materials, and handles. Depending on how you travel, explore and carry your gear will contribute to what type of tool you need. By definition, a hatchet is really just a light-weight ax but then you have compact axes, compact hatchets, tomahawks, and many others.

Whether compact or full-size, an ax can and will come in handy for most of us off-roaders or overlanders out there. First, decide on how you intend on using the ax. Are you looking to split logs at camp or clear branches on the trail? Take a look at the list below and determine which style and material you relate with. Then check out our reviews below and let us know your thoughts in the comments section.

Styles:

• Full-size Ax
• Tomahawk Ax
• Compact Ax
• Splitting Ax
• Hatchet Ax
• Compact Hatchet Ax
• Multi-Tool Axes

Materials

• Steel
• Composite
• Wood

Option 1. Composite Handled Axes & Hatchets

Gerber is an American-based subsidiary of Fiskars, a Finnish company perhaps best known for their pruning shears and other cutting tools that boast orange handles.

As a side note, the popular Fiskars pruning shears are actually a great option throw in your overland gear bag as well. They are small, nimble and really get the job done when it comes to small brush branches.

In years past, Fiskars made composite handled axes under both nameplates in Finland. The handles wrap around, rather than pass through, the ax head. Fiskars advertising appears to be directed toward yard care, whereas Gerber leans more toward the outdoors.

The primary distinguishing feature, however, is handle color.

Gerber or Fiskar Hatchets?

• Gerber: Check Price
• Fiskars: Check Price

The Fiskars hatchet in the photo above is now almost two decades old. Levy’s, a Canadian leathercraft manufacturer, made the sheath in the picture. It lives in a toolbox in my 4Runner now but has been a useful companion on many backpacking trips over the years. On a wilderness survival training experience for teachers near Alaska wherein it somehow was the only cutting tool to arrive in camp, the little Fiskars even held its own splitting driftwood.

For a few years, I used a Gerber Sport Ax, which featured a longer handle and heavier head than the Fiskars hatchet. Unfortunately, it disappeared during one of my moves between villages. The model has since been replaced in Gerber’s lineup by the Sport Ax II. If you are looking for an ultra-compact hatchet, take a look at the Gerber Pack Hatchet Camping Axe.

Even more aggressive in their lineup of composite axes is the Gerber Downrange Tomahawk. Although it is not an “axe” it sure is close. It packs a steel frame with a Cerakote coating and is finished with a composite handle. The multi-tool has three functions; Axe, Hammer Head, and Pry Bar with integrated prying handle. This is a robust and pricy option.

Gerber Hatchets and Axes

• Gerber Sport Axe II: Check Price
• Gerber Pack Hatchet Camping Axe: Check Price
• Gerber Downrange Tomahawk: Check Price

Both Fiskars and Gerber offer a variety of useful axes for overlanding use. My preferences lean strongly toward wood-handled axes, but the utility and durability of composite-handled axes are undeniable.

Browning’s Tomahawk-Like Axes for Limbing and Light Chopping

In contrast to the Finnish offerings mentioned above, Browning’s ax offerings are limited to the Outdoorsman’s Ax and Outdoorsman’s Compact Hatchet.

For all practical purposes, only the former has any real utility for overlanding. I’ve owned an older version of this ax for about a decade, but have used it sparingly. The 24” handle is of similar construction to the Finnish axes, but the tang of the handle passes through the ax head instead of wrapping around the head. Browning describes the head as a tomahawk design, and it does an exceptional job with limbing and light chopping duties.

Find It Online:

• Browning’s Outdoorsman’s Composite-Handled Ax: Check Price
• Browning’s Outdoorsman’s Compact Hatchet: Check Price

Overall, this is a lightweight, durable ax at a fair price – a worthy rival to the Fiskars/Gerber duo – so why don’t I use mine more often? The answer comes down to personal preference. To me, the Estwing – and especially the Helko Werk Black Forest Worker reviewed below – just feel better to use.

Option 2. All-Steel Axes

Providing perhaps the best value in a high quality, high utility camp ax, the Estwing Camper’s Ax from the Estwing All Steel Ax Lineup is positively boring in its durability.

The made in the USA Camper’s Ax is unique among the offerings in this review in being of all-steel construction. This means the head and handle are one solid forged piece. The Camper’s Ax comes with either an 18.75” or 26” handle and a shock-reducing rubber grip. A black powder-coated special edition is also available.

Find It Online:

• Estwing Made in the USA Camper’s All-Steel Ax (26″): Check Price
• Estwing Camper’s Axe – 16″ Hatchet: Check Price

Lightweight All-Steel Ax For Serious Wood Splitting

The Camper’s Ax has quite a following in Alaska among people who depend on their tools for more than recreational use. Well-used examples adorn boats, ATVs, and snowmobiles throughout the backcountry. My own example survived being run over by a snowmobile and thoroughly abused by students in a wilderness survival class. It could use a thorough cleaning and some love from a file, but I know it’s still good for decades of use.

The Camper’s Ax is on the light side for serious splitting but is an outstanding all-around choice for limbing and felling duties. If you want an ax that can take a lot of abuse and requires minimal care in return, the Camper’s Ax is an excellent choice.

Other useful offerings from Estwing include the Sportsman’s Ax and the Fireside Friend. The Sportsman’s Ax is essentially a hatchet-length version of the Camper’s Ax, while the Fireside Friend is a lightweight, short-handled splitter.

Option 3. Wood-Handled Axes

One of the premier names among ax aficionados, Gransfors Bruk has an impeccable reputation for quality.

These are heirloom-caliber gear. They offer a wide catalog of specialized axes and accessories. Master craftsmen in Sweden forge these axes and mark the one they produce with their initials.

Leather Sheath For Gransfors Bruk Axes

Each ax comes with a reference book, which allows the buyer to see which craftsman made their individual ax. A leather sheath is included, but buyers may want to consider upgrading to a Beneath the Stars sheath after their purchase, as it is a more durable design. The hickory handle features subtle finger grooves for maintaining grip in wet weather or while wearing gloves.

Find It Online:

• Beneath the Stars Sheath: Check Price

Gransfor Bruk Hunter’s Ax

The Hunter’s Ax has long been a personal favorite, but my much-used example lives in my hunting pack rather than my 4Runner. Its most unique feature, a flay poll that aids in skinning large ungulates, has limited utility for overlanding chores. The Hunter’s Ax is a highly capable work of art, but there are better choices for camping.

Find It Online:

• Gransfor Bruk Wood-Handled Hunter’s Ax: Check Price

Gransfor Bruk Splitting Hatchet

The Splitting Hatchet packs a lot of firewood splitting power in a compact package that fits readily in toolboxes or backpacks.

It features a 19” handle that can be wielded in one hand or both. The head weighs 3.3 pounds, with a thin face that broadens quickly to aid in forcing the wood apart. A protective steel collar at the base of the head guards against damage to the handle from overstrikes. This is an outstanding ax for splitting small quantities of firewood, especially for camp stoves.

Find It Online:

• Gransfor Bruk Wood-Handled Splitting Hatchet: Check Price

Hand-Crafted Helko Werk’s Wood-Handled Axes

Another high-quality European brand, Helko Werk’s axes are forged in Wuppertal, Germany.

Much like Gransfors Bruk, Helko Werk employs master smiths who handcraft each individual piece. While these craftsmen and women obviously take pride in their work, they do not press their initials are pressed into the ax heads.

Helk Werk’s Black Forest Woodworker Ax

The Black Forest Woodworker may be the most versatile ax I own. It certainly has seen the most use during my time in Alaska. The slightly exaggerated sweep of the blade face (a feature of Rheinland pattern ax heads) makes it ideal for limbing and falling smaller trees, and it is more than capable of light splitting duty.

Find It Online:

• Helk Werk’s Black Forest Woodworker Ax: Check Price

24″ American Hickory Handle Replacements

At 24”, the American hickory handle fits without complaint in a canoe or on an ATV rack. Mine is on its second handle after a certain dog thought it would make the perfect chew toy. Fortunately, replacement handles are available on the website. If you want an all-around ax that matches the Estwing Camp Ax in utility but has a bit more character, this may be the ax for you.

Helk Werk’s Spaltaxt Wood-Splitting Ax

The Spaltaxt is easier to use than it is to pronounce.

A mid-weight ax with a 4.5-pound dual-wedge head, the Spaltaxt is a wood splitting fiend. The extra wedge prevents the head from getting stuck, while the 28” handle yields enough leverage to get the job done without taking up excessive space. If your overlanding adventures require frequent splitting, this is one of the best tools for the job.

Find It Online:

• Helko Werk’s Spaltaxt Wood-Splitting Ax: Check Price

Final Thoughts

I must confess, I am a bit of a geek for axes, so choosing just one to recommend may be more difficult for me than for others.

Perhaps the best recommendation I can make is to visit hardware and sporting goods stores and see how the various offerings feel in your hands. This is one piece of equipment best purchased in person rather than online.