The whip-hand dominance of the .223 Rem. has littered the boneyard with nearly all other 22-cal. center-fire cartridges; however, the .221 Rem. Fireball remains just outside that acre’s gate because informed handloaders look at it from a different perspective than those who see it as merely a short .223. Besides, you have to like a cartridge with a cool-sounding name such as “Fireball.”

The .221 case is a close copy of the .223. Both cases have the same head diameter, shoulder angle, neck length and maximum average pressure (MAP) of 55,000 p.s.i. The only difference is that the .221 is shortened 0.3674 inches in the body. That reduces its propellant capacity to 60 percent of the .223s. But loaded with the proper propellants, the .221 produces about 90 percent of the .223’s velocity with bullets weighing up to 55 grains.

Beginnings

This short cartridge was initially chambered in Remington’s XP-100 bolt-action single-shot handgun in 1963. From the XP-100’s original 10.75-inch barrel, the .221 fired 50-grain bullets at about 2600 f.p.s. The XP-100’s barrel was eventually lengthened to 14.5 inches and chambered in other .22-cal. cartridges such as the .223 Rem. and .22-250 Rem. The .221 chambering lasted until 1985. For a while Thompson/Center chambered the cartridge in its Contender single-shot handgun. The .221 languished in neglect until 2002 when Remington gave it a face-lift as a rifle cartridge in its Model 700 Classic rifle. The last year Remington chambered the cartridge was in 2007 in the Model 700 Light Varmint Stainless Fluted rifle.

The CZ 527 American and the Model 21 from Cooper Firearms of Montana are the only rifles currently chambered in .221 by major manufacturers. The Cooper folks say the .221 is nowhere near as popular as the .204 Ruger or .223 Rem. But the cartridge has a following, and they sell about as many rifles chambered in the Fireball as they do rifles in .22 Hornet.

A Cooper Model 21 Montana Varminter was used to shoot the loads for this article. The Varminter is intended for shooting from a rest, with style. The oil finish highlights the running grain of its AA+ claro walnut stock with a beavertail fore-end. The Model 21 is a single-shot. Pushing forward the three-lug bolt picks up a cartridge from the loading pan, feeding it into the chamber. The sample rifle’s trigger has a perfect 2-pound pull.

Handloading

The Fireball case is only a smidgen larger than the Hornet case. The 3 to 8 grains of additional propellant the .221 holds, though, result in a gain of 600 f.p.s. over the Hornet with bullets of the same weight. Care should be taken when developing loads for a cartridge as small as the .221 because a big increase in velocity and pressure results from a small increase in propellant. From the Cooper Model 21’s 24-inch barrel, Nosler 35-grain Ballistic Tip Lead Free bullets had an average velocity of 2752 f.p.s. powered by 17.0 grains of H4198. Stepping up the propellant to 17.5 grains increased velocity to 2949 f.p.s. An additional 0.5 grain jumped speed to 3034 f.p.s, and 18.5 grains upped the velocity to 3,296 f.p.s.

Relatively fast-burning propellants such as Hodgdon’s H4198, Lil’Gun and Accurate 1680 are a key to loading the .221. Lil’Gun is a great propellant for the Fireball shooting lightweight bullets. From two other .221 rifles, Lil’Gun fired Berger 30-grain Varmint bullets at nearly 3900 f.p.s. and Nosler 35-grain Ballistic Tip Lead-Free bullets at 3700 f.p.s. From the Cooper Varminter, Hornady 40-grain V-MAX bullets reached 3270 f.p.s. with 15.0 grains of the propellant and 3460 f.p.s. with 15.5 grains.

Relatively slow-burning propellants provide a more sustained push to 50-grain and heavier bullets. Lil’Gun and A1680 are still good choices as well as H335, H4198, N130 and Reloder 7.

Heavier bullets also provide more uniform velocities. The 30- and 35-grain bullets had extreme spreads of velocity of up to 200 f.p.s with several different propellants. But spreads shrank to less than 50 f.p.s. with 40-grain bullets and down to 10 f.p.s. with 50 and 55-grain bullets.

How close to seat bullets to rifling lands for the best accuracy is a matter of hundredths of an inch. Bullets close to, or even in contact with, the rifling are thought to function with improved accuracy because they make less of an unsupported “jump” before engaging it. That minimizes the chance of bullets entering the rifling at an angle and flying into left field. Just as important, though, bullets seated straight with the centerline of case necks align with the chamber throat to ensure they enter the rifling straight, even if they have to move a ways to engage it.

The .221’s maximum cartridge length is 1.830″. However, Nosler 55-grain Ballistic Tips just touch the rifling lands of the Cooper .221 with a cartridge length of 1.873 inches. The Cooper rifle has no magazine, so that long cartridge length fits fine. A smidgen shorter cartridge length, though, ensures easy extraction of an unfired cartridge from the chamber. Also, pressures tend to be greater when bullets do not have a bit of a running start before contacting rifling.

To determine if accuracy was better with bullets seated just short of the rifling compared to seated back a ways, I loaded 10 cartridges each with the Ballistic Tips seated with an overall length of 1.850 inches and 1.830 inches. Before shooting I ran the cartridges through a Hornady Lock-N-Load Concentricity Tool. The majority of the bullets were absolutely true with the case necks but a few varied up to 0.002 inches. The longer cartridges averaged 0.96 inches for two, five-shot groups. The shorter cartridges averaged 0.95 inches.

Shooting

After firing 20 shots at a fast pace, the Cooper’s barrel was lukewarm and the front third remained cold. Even though the temperature was in the 20s, heat rising from the barrel created barely any mirage through the Leupold 14X riflescope. Recoil was so mild that the crosshairs scarcely jumped off target, and often I saw bullet holes appear instantly. The Cooper Varminter shot well. It probably would have shot even tighter groups, but there was the shiver factor to consider from the cold temperatures. It helped, though, thinking about warm spring days ahead and green fields of ground squirrels and prairie dogs.

Here in Ohio, we still haven’t had a frost so I’m still bringing in the harvest. This week, I’m ready to collect juniper berries.

Our juniper shrub has played an important part in our farm since the very beginning. It was much smaller when we moved in, but nonetheless, was the best shelter on the property for our very first bee hives. The mockingbird, for which we named our farm, nested in the juniper just above the hives that first year and we took it as a good sign.

Where to Find Juniper Berries

Junipers grow in most parts of North America. They aren’t too picky about the soils in which they grow, with the exception of their dislike for an extremely wet one. Because they can tolerate extremely dry conditions, you may have met a juniper even if you live in the city. They are often planted near sidewalks and streets. They don’t need much in the way of maintenance, so no need for a grounds crew to keep them trimmed. Even the berries, which are small and abundant, lure the birds to come and fetch them instead of gracelessly cluttering the yard.

Using Juniper Berries

Juniper berries have a long tradition of use in food, beverages, and medicine. I wrote some weeks ago about the fact that they are the main flavor in gin. In Norway, where my family originates, it is common to home brew with juniper berry tea. You’ll find recipes that include juniper berries with meat, especially fish. Just a few are used, and they are usually crushed to release their flavor. It is said that they make a domestic meat taste like their wild counterparts.

In medicine, juniper berries are recognized for both their high content of volatile oils and their beneficial resins. It its common to see them applied to issues in the respiratory tract and urinary tract. Therefore they can be useful for such issues as cold, congestion, cough, urinary tract infections, arthritis, and gout. They are fairly intense in their action, so only small amounts are used.

NOTE: Juniper berries aren’t a tonic by any means, so the use of them over long periods of time isn’t advisable. The use of the berries for anyone with only one kidney, or someone with kidney disease, is not advised.

Harvesting Juniper Berries

Our juniper bush towers over us these days. It has grown from a modest six feet to easily 11 feet over the past 15 years. I won’t bother picking any of the berries above my head. In that way, I can leave some of the berries for the birds. Juniper leaves are sharp, so it’s best to use gloves when picking juniper berries.

The time-honored way to pick is much like mulberry picking. Place a sheet underneath the shrub, grasp a branch with berries, and gently shake. The berries will fall off quite easily. You are looking for only the blue, ripe berries. Anything green will rot before it dries.

Drying Juniper Berries

After gathering the berries, it is time to dry them. It has turned rather chilly and humid here, so I’ll most likely use the dehydrator. It takes quite a while to fully dry a juniper berry because it is highly resinous. You can expect to allow them to air dry for up to three weeks or at least two days in the dehydrator.

Using Dried Juniper Berries

This winter, I’m looking forward to experimenting with some juniper rubs for outdoor barbecue. If I decide to use the berries for medicine, they can be tinctured, powdered, or made into tea.

Want juniper berries, but don’t have time for a DIY?

You can find organic dried juniper berries here for a reasonable price.

Have you noticed a juniper shrub in your area, covered in blue berries? Have I inspired you to take a closer look?

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If you have a hole or tear in your mesh fabric, don’t worry! You can mend it yourself with a few simple steps. First, locate the hole or tear. Then, cut out the faulty section of the mesh fabric with a pair of scissors.

Finally, use a seam ripper to remove any unwanted stitches from the hole or tear. Now you’re ready to mend your mesh fabric.

Source: ifixit

How To Mend Mesh Fabric

If you have a torn mesh fabric, the first thing you should do is clean the area with soap and water. Then, apply adhesive tape in a crosshatch pattern and press mesh onto the adhesive tape.

Allow to dry.

Clean Area With Soapy Water And Clorox

Cleaning mesh fabric is easier than you think. All you need is soap and water, and a few drops of clorox. Soak the mesh for about five minutes in warm soapy water, then rinse it off with cool water.

Don’t use hot water or bleach on mesh fabric because it can damage the material. When washing your mesh fabric, make sure to get all the dirt, dust, and stains off of it. Always shake out any excess water before hanging or placing your mesh piece back on the rack.

If needed, you can spot clean areas on the fabric with a damp cloth or sponge. To keep your mesh looking new, avoid getting liquids and moisture onto it; this will cause fading and wear over time. Make sure to store your mesh fabric away from direct sunlight and heat sources to avoid damaging it even further.

Apply Adhesive Tape In A Crosshatch Pattern

If you have a mesh fabric shirt that needs to be mended, there is an easy way to do it. First, take the shirt to a dry cleaner and ask them to remove the stain or damage. Next, apply adhesive tape in a crosshatch pattern to the affected area.

Then wait for the adhesive to set before removing it. Repeat this process on any other areas of the shirt that need attention. Finally, wash the shirt as usual and enjoy your newly repaired clothing item! Adhesive tape can be used on most fabrics, so be creative when applying it so that it doesn’t look too noticeable.

Keep in mind that adhesive tape will not last forever, so replace it regularly as needed. And last but not least, remember to always test a small area first before using it on a larger piece of clothing! Mending mesh fabric can be a simple task with the right tools and instructions—and sometimes just some patience.

Press Mesh Onto Adhesive Tape

When repairing mesh fabric, it is important to adhere the mesh to adhesive tape in order to prevent it from shifting or tearing during the repair process. To do this, first take a piece of adhesive tape and place it on one side of the mesh fabric.

Then carefully place the mesh over the adhesive tape, making sure that all edges are fully covered. Next, press down firmly on the mesh with your hands so that it adheres tightly to the adhesive tape. Finally, use a sharp object such as a knife to make any necessary cuts in the mesh fabric if needed.

Be careful not to puncture the adhesive tape when performing this step! Repeat these steps for any other areas of the mesh that need repairs. Once all repairs have been made, dry the mesh completely before re- installing into your garment or home decor project

Allow To Dry

If you notice any threads coming out of the mesh fabric, don’t panic. All you need to do is gently pull on the threads until all the evidence of the fray is gone. Once all the threads are pulled out, allow the fabric to dry completely before continuing with your project.

If there are still visible strands or holes in the mesh, fill them with a patching material and sew it down. When repairing mesh fabric, be sure to use a thread that matches the color of your mesh fabric and avoid using too much tension when stitching. After completing your repair, be sure to wash and dry your repaired fabric properly to avoid further wear and tear.

Remember: never leave mesh fabrics unattended while they are being patched – they can become damaged even faster if left untreated! And finally, if you ever have any questions about how to mend mesh fabric or any other sewing emergencies, don’t hesitate to reach out for help.

Remove The Fabric From The Mesh

Remove the fabric from the mesh by following these simple steps: Pry off the adhesive with a flathead screwdriver or scraper. Be careful not to cut yourself on the sharp edges of the adhesive residue.

Wipe down any dust or debris that may have gathered on the mesh during removal. Place a new piece of adhesive onto the mesh and press it into place firmly with your fingers or a blunt tool such as a Credit Card.

Hold in place for seconds, then release the mesh and gently pull off the adhesive backing. If necessary, reposition and re- adhere the fabric to ensure a tight fit against the mesh surface. Finally, use a vacuum cleaner to clean up any leftover adhesive residue.

Repair The Fabric With Sewing Supplies

If you’ve got a tear or hole in your mesh fabric, there are a few supplies that you need to mend it with. Bias tape is one of the most common supplies used to repair mesh fabric because it’s both strong and flexible.

You can use sewing needles and thread to sew the bias tape directly onto the mesh fabric. Once you have sewn the bias tape in place, use a hot iron to press it down and seal the repairs. Finally, use a seam ripper to remove any unwanted stitches or threads from the repaired area.

If you don’t want to rely on bias tape for your repairs, there are other options available such as Velcro strips or zippers. Always test a new repair before you go all-in and start stitching! If something goes wrong while you’re repairing your mesh fabric, be sure to have some replacement supplies on hand in case needed.

Be patient when repairing mesh fabric-it may take some time but it will definitely last longer if done correctly! When repairing mesh fabric, always make sure that there are no loose threads or areas that could come loose during wear and tear.

Wash And Dry The Fabric

When it comes to repairing mesh fabric, the most important thing to remember is to wash and dry it as soon as possible. Soak the fabric in warm water for a few minutes before washing it with your regular detergent.

Rinse the fabric thoroughly and then hang it to dry. If there are holes or tears in the fabric, patch them as soon as possible using a seam binding or zigzag stitch. If you notice any fading or yellowing of the fabric, treat it with a laundry stain remover before laundering it again.

Make sure that you store your repaired mesh fabric in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight and heat sources. And lastly, if you ever have any questions about how to mend mesh fabric, don’t hesitate to ask a professional.

Apply A Patch

If you have a tear in your mesh fabric, the first step is to try to mend it yourself. There are a few different ways that you can mend mesh fabric, and each one has its own advantages and disadvantages.

One of the most common methods for repairing mesh fabric is by using a patch. When using a patch, be sure to follow the instructions that come with it so that the repair will last. Another option is to have your mesh fabric replaced entirely.

This is usually the best solution if the tear is large or multiple pieces of mesh have been damaged. If you choose not to replace the mesh fabric, be sure to keep the repair clean and free from moisture so that it lasts longer. Finally, if you do manage to mend your mesh fabric on your own, be sure to document the repairs so that you can re-create them if needed in the future.

Always remember: when repairing mesh fabric, take care not to stretch or tear the underlying fabric. If your are repairing pant fabrics, be careful doing so as they are expansive.

Conclusion

The best way to mend mesh fabric is by using a safe and effective method such as steam.

The most comfortable tree stands will mean you can sit for an all-day hunt without worrying about cramps, aches, pains etc.

But it’s not just about avoiding discomfort for the sake of it. (Any hunter worth their salt is willing to endure a little bit of pain to achieve success). But discomfort in a tree stand means you are more likely to shift about.

Every time you shift about, you risk giving away your position.

And so a comfortable tree stand (be it a climber, a hang on, or a ladder stand) has a practical purpose in addition to providing for our creature comforts.

The most comfortable tree stands we could find are detailed below. But if you want the top level summary:

• Millenium are widely considered to make the most comfortable hang on tree stands. The M100U is their most popular model (you can pick one up at Cabelas or Black Ovis or Amazon).
• The most comfortable climbing tree stand is generally thought to be the Summit Viper SD (also available at Cabelas or Amazon).
• The most comfortable ladder stand is almost certainly the Hawk Big Denali 1.5 (available at Sportsman’s Guide and Cabelas).

Most Comfortable Hang On Tree Stand – Millennium M100U

The Millennium M100 Ultralite is widely regarded as one of the most comfortable tree stands full stop (that’s out of all tree stands, not just lock ons).

The seat is 22″ x 17″ with 17″ of height. It’s a contoured “sling” design that uses Millenium’s patented ComfortMAX technology. Not exactly sure what that is but it is certainly comfy (and most hunters who’ve sat in one will attest to that fact)!

It’s got a sizeable platform at 20″ x 38″ (which is around 5.25 square feet). It’s not the biggest platform you can find with a hang on stand but there’s plenty of room to manoeuvre into position to take a shot.

Consider adding an M105 Footrest from Millennium to pimp out your stand, even more, taking your comfort to the next level.

The Millennium M100 is the most comfortable hang on tree stand, so if you like to post in your perch for hours at a time, this is the stand for you. Just be prepared that you might doze off!

Availability

The Millenium M100 Ultralite should be available from the following stores:

• Check princes at Amazon >>
• Check princes at Black Ovis >>
• Check princes at Scheels >>
• Check princes at Dick’s Sporting Goods >>

Another Comfortable Lock On Stand – Millenium M150 Monster

The Millennium M150 is one of the biggest hang on stands you can find. It’s a bit harder to hang than the M100, but that extra room and the adjustability of the seat makes it one of the best tree stands for big guys.

The 20″x17″ seat is adjustable between 16″ and 20″ from the platform. The platform is a massive 37″ x 24″. It’s rated for 300lbs and weighs a surprising 19.5lbs.

Millennium’s M150 is hard to beat. It is spacious, comfortable, and suitable for use on almost any tree, even if it’s leaning at a bit of an angle (up to 15 degrees). And if you want even more comfort, consider purchasing a footrest.

Availability

The Millenium M150 should be available from the following stores:

• Check prices on Amazon >>
• Check prices at Cabelas >>
• Check prices at Scheels >>

Most Comfortable Climbing Tree Stand – Summit Viper SD

The Summit Viper SD is hands down the most comfortable climbing tree stand you can buy today. It’s fairly lightweight, coming in at 20lbs. It’s rated for 300lbs. The 20″ x 36″ platform is a decent enough size. And the 18″ x 12″ x 20″ seat is so comfy you may just nod off.

The Viper SD also has a front rail made from aluminum that works great to support rifles, though not as much for bow hunters. The aluminum frame is constructed using DeadMetal, a sound deadening technology that reduces noise from the climbing tree stand to prevent making animals aware of your presence.

According to customers, this is a rock-sturdy stand that grips well on to abrasive tree stems such as pine and oak, but it tends to slide a little on sleek, wet surfaces. Another thing users praise is that the tree stand is very portable due to its relatively small seat, but the downfall with this is that larger people might struggle to fit onto the seat and the platform.

If you’re looking for the most comfortable climbing tree stand, the Viper SD is where it’s at. It features a seat, backrest, and armrests fully padded with foam and comfortable backpack straps, making it super portable and easy to carry. For larger people, it might be a little tight, but that’s where the Summit Goliath SD comes in…!

Availability

The Summit Viper SD seems to have good availability in a bunch of online stores. At the time of writing you could find them in the following places:

• Check prices at Amazon >>
• Check prices at Field & Stream >>
• Check prices at Cabelas >>
• Check prices at Walmart >>
• Check prices at Dick’s Sporting Goods >>
• Check prices at Scheels >>

Most Comfortable Ladder Stand

Hawk Hunting have been supplying the hunting community for over 50 years, during which time they’ve been at the forefront of hunting technology. It’s perhaps little wonder, then, that their ladder stands are widely considered to be the most comfortable tree stands a hunter can sit in.

They sell three tree stands: the Bighorn, the Sasquatch and the Big Denali. You can takes your pick as far as comfort goes, because the seat designs are approximately the same. But it’s the Big Denali 1.5 and the Big Denali 2-Man that we’re going to discuss here.

The Big Denali has everything you could possibly need from a tree stand in terms of comfort. The padded armrests feel almost like a couch, as does the seat itself. The flip-out footrest also does its part in keeping your feet and legs from getting cramp.

And if you’re hunting with a rifle, the adjustable shooting rail means you can get into position quickly, quietly and without hunching or stretching.

Availability

The Hawk Big Denali 1.5 should be available from the following stores:

The Hawk Big Denali 2 should be available from the following stores:

• Check prices at Cabelas >>
• Check prices on Amazon >>
• Check prices at Walmart >>

Another Comfortable Ladder Stand – Bolderton Outlander 360

The really awesome thing about the Bolderton Outlander 360 is the massive platform and the swivel seat. So in addition to being supremely comfortable you have a massive field of vision.

It’s a 19′ ladder stand. Its comfortable mesh seat is on a huge, hexagonal platform that gives you a lot of room to stretch. And it has a bunch of built-in camouflage blind panels to keep you concealed.

It’s an absolute beast to put up (and will probably require you to bribe a couple of buddies with some beer to help you). But once it’s up the swivel chair is so comfortable you could just as easily be in the office.

Availability

The Bolderton Outlander 360 should be available from the following stores:

• Sportsman’s Guide >>
• Amazon >>

Conclusion

Whether you’re looking for a hang on stand, a climbing stand or a ladder stand, comfort is probably the most important thing to most people after they’re comfortable that the kit is as silent as possible.

The hunting community are pretty much as one voice on the most comfortable tree stands:

For a comfortable ladder stand go with Hawk Big Denali 1.5.

For the most comfortable lock on stands go with a Millenium from their M-Series (like the Millenium M100U or the M150).

And for the most comfortable climbing tree stands, it’s Summit every time, specifically the Summit Viper SD.

Related Articles: feel free to check out more tree stand recommendations including the best ladder stands, the best hang on stands and the best climbing tree stands.

FAQs

What Is the Most Comfortable Climbing Tree Stand?

The most comfortable climbing tree stand is ultimately a matter of personal preference. However, we reckon the most comfortable climber (and we’re not alone) is the Summit Viper SD…

The American pump shotgun market is ruled by two guns, the Mossberg 500 and Remington 870.

These guns have been subject to at least as much debate as to the 9mm vs. 45 ACP or the Glock vs. 1911.

While they are very similar, they are also very different. Just saying Mossberg 500 or Remington 870 is a bit misleading. Both guns have dozens of variants.

These guns are not just a single line but a series of shotguns.

With Mossberg, we have the 500, the 535, the 590, the 590A1, the Shockwave, and so on.

With Remington, we have the Express, Wingmaster, Tactical, the TAC 14, the DM models, and more.

We are keeping this generalized to the specifics of these family of shotguns. When necessary I’ll mention exceptions within these families if rules are broken.

I want this to be a look at both the inside and outside of the guns and what’s important to shooters.

Both guns are similar, and they come in 12 gauge, 20 gauge, and 410. Both are pump-action shotguns, both are American made, and both can be used for home defense, hunting, and police and military use.

There are quite a few differences, though. That’s what we are going to explore today, the differences between these two guns.

The Controls

The most significant difference any shooter can easily pick up on is the difference between the safety locations on a Remington 870 and a Mossberg 500.

The Remington 870 uses a traditional push-button safety located on the trigger guard. Mossberg uses sliding safety located on the tang of the receiver.

The Remington 870’s safety is positioned behind the trigger and easy to reach.

It can be used with any stock system with ease. It is much more friendly with right-handers, but that being said, a left-handed friend of mine uses an 870 and destroys us at shooting clays.

The Mossberg 500 safety is completely ambidextrous but challenging to use on shotguns with pistol grips. This includes practical pistol grips that utilize stocks as well.

It takes a mighty reach upwards on Mossbergs with pistol grips

While the safeties are the easiest difference to spot, the other difference is the slide release. Both the Mossberg and Remington position the slide release on the left side of the trigger unit.

Remington places there forward of the trigger, and Mossberg positions theirs behind the trigger.

The Remington 870 suffers from the fact that you have to break your firing grip to reach forward and release the slide. The Mossberg 500 series can be activated without breaking the firing grip.

The Difference in Actions

One difference you can’t see, but you can feel is each gun’s actions. Both use twin steel action bars for increased durability.

You notice how handy those twin action bars are when you handle something like an old 1897 and feel how fragile a single action bar is.

The Remington 870 uses a robust, one-piece design that combines the action bars and pump. The Mossberg 500 series uses two pinned action bars that are anchored to a separate slide assembly.

The end result is the Mossberg pumps tend to feel sloppy, and they move around quite a bit. You can feel the slop in your hands as you pump the weapon.

The Remington 870 tends to be tighter and smoother. It gives an overall higher quality experience. If you want to tune a gun up, get a Remington, and you’ll be shocked at how smooth a competent smith can get a Remy action.

The 500 series does make it easier to replace and repair the action. Should a bar get bent, it’s easy to unpin the bar and remove and replace it. If a Remington 870 bar gets bent, it can be challenging to pull out the entire system and replace it.

Material Differences

One of the most significant differences you can’t see is what material makes up your shotgun’s receiver.

Don’t feel bad.

Most people can’t look at a metal and tell you what it is.

This material difference is one of the biggest differences you’ll likely never notice.

The Remington 870s use good ole ‘fashion American steel. Well, I don’t know if it’s American, but it is steel. This gives the 870s a more substantial receiver overall.

The Mossberg 500 series uses aluminum receivers. While steel is stronger, there is likely never going to be a time you can break a Mossberg 500’s aluminum receiver. While the difference exists between the materials, there is no practical advantage to using steel over aluminum.

AR-15s are made from aluminum, and we trust it’ll work.

The most significant practical difference is the weight of the guns. Remingtons, on average, tend to be heavier guns by anywhere from a pound to half a pound when like vs. like is compared.

More weight isn’t exactly a good or bad thing, it’s just different. Stalking deer? Lightweight is nicer. Skeet shooting? Heavier makes for a smoother swing.

Magazine Tubes

Another somewhat hidden, but often desirable feature for shotguns is extending the magazine capacity. Shotguns are typically restricted to a relatively low ammunition capacity. The ability to add a few extra shots can be highly desirable.

With the Mossberg 500, it’s complicated. Adding more capacity is difficult because of the magazine and barrel design. To do so, you need a new barrel and matching tube to do so.

You can’t just screw on an extension and go for it. The barrel attaches directly to the magazine tube and not around it. The Mossberg 590 series corrects this and allows you to connect a magazine extension directly to the tube.

The Remington 870 is traditionally a simpler weapon to utilize when it comes to adding an extension. Remove the magazine cap and then screw on the extension.

Well, that was the old days. Now on a lot of models, they are dimpling the magazine tube.

This makes it impossible for the spring and for rounds to travel into an extension. It’s likely the tactical models don’t have this dimpled magazine tube, but a lot of the non-tactical models will.

The only solution is too remove the dimples yourself via power tools or pay a gunsmith to do it.

You can’t swap the magazine tube for another without a dimple because Remington solders the magazine tubes in place.

These soldered tubes can be a major hassle if you damage the tube and need to replace it.

With Mossberg designs, you simply have to heat up the Loctite and unscrew the magazine tube.

Extractors / Ejector

Improper extraction and ejection are likely the most common cause of firearm’s malfunction outside of ammo related issues. Needless to say, it’s an important function. Shotguns deal with an odd round when you think about it.

It’s a bulky hybrid of plastic and brass that’s often cumbersome, comes in various lengths, and can be all sorts of different weight and projectile types. Being able to extract and eject any and all shells are essential.

Remington uses a single extractor that grips the rim of the shells and rips them outwards.

Mossberg uses two extractors to help guarantee reliability. The dual extractors are great because if one breaks, the other will still work, and you can run the gun until you can repair it.

I’ve fired a lot of rounds from shotguns, especially 870s and 500s, and I’ve never had a single extractor break, but redundancy is often an effective safety measure.

The good news is both can be replaced at home with both guns.

Each gun’s ejector is a different story. Mossberg continues its tradition of being user accessible with an ejector that screws in. Remington continues to be the iPhone of shotguns with a riveted ejector making it challenging to replace.

I stripped a Mossberg 590 receiver for a friend, and it took a little heat gun action and a flat head screwdriver to remove the ejector. I wouldn’t know where to start with an 870.

The Shell Lifters

The shell lifters aren’t exactly something you think about when you first handle a shotgun.

Once you start loading and shooting a lot, and primarily when you shoot Mossberg 500s and 870s a lot, you notice that the Mossberg is more comfortable to load.

The Mossberg uses a patented shell lifter that is both skeletonized and in the always up position.

The Remington uses a standard shell lifter that stays down and acts as a gate to the gun. It’s a solid slab of metal that sits below the bolt and action. To load a shell, you press the shell lifter up and slide it into the tube.

The shell lifter can slow you down, and when you are going fast, it likes to pinch you.

The Mossberg skeletonized and always up shell lifter is out of the way, and you can smoothly load one or two shells with little effort.

The skeletonized lifter also allows you to fix malfunctions easier. You can reach through the bottom of the gun, and this can help you free a stuck shell.

The Small Things

Here are a few small things you may want to consider when purchasing either gun. These didn’t fit into any other category and are not significant enough to warrant their own category. So let’s not forget about the small things.

Adding an Optic

The Mossberg 500 series are all tapped and ready to add a scope rail and an optic. The Remington 870 is not universally tapped, which means a trip to the gun smith, or a Burris Speedbead system needs to be installed.

Check out more in our Best Shotgun Sights article.

Mini Shells

Mini shells are tons of fun! They are low recoil, easy to shoot, and decently affordable.

Both guns can fire them, but the Mossberg 500 series can be fitted with an adapter from Opsol.

This mini clip allows the mini shells to feed 100% of the time. The 870 cannot be fitted with this adapter.

Barrel Thickness

The Remington 870 has a thicker barrel than a standard 500. It’s equivalent to a Mossberg 590. You can buy the upgraded Mossberg to get the thicker, stronger barrel.

Price

The Mossberg 500 tends to be cheaper, but the Remington 870 is only a hair more expensive. It’s also fitted with a steel receiver and a thicker barrel. The 590 series are more expensive than the 870 Express models, as well.

A US Army Testing Procedure

The US Army has a testing procedure called the MIL-SPEC 3443 test, which is a brutal 3K round test that pushes shotguns to the edge.

The Mossberg series has been the only shotgun to pass this rigorous test.

Here’s us with our 590A1 and some Winchester 00 buckshot…

The requirement calls for a metal trigger group, so only the 590A1 and 500 MILS qualify to fit the criteria.

Customizability

If you want to customize your gun, you can go with either model and be quite successful with that goal. There are crazy amounts of parts out there for both weapons.

You can do almost anything.

You can swap stocks, pumps, add sights, side saddles, and more to each gun. You can do a ton with either, and it’s hard to say which is better overall.

Both guns are straightforward to customize, and you have plenty of options to do so.

Of course, we have articles to help you with both!

• Best Remington 870 Upgrades
• Best Mossberg 500 & 590 Upgrades

Which One is For You?

That’s a good question.

My chosen home defense shotgun is the Mossberg 590, but my favorite shotgun ever is my antique Ohio National Guard Remington 870.

Both guns have their favorites, and I will say Remington guns have been rough since 2007.

Once Freedom Group took over, quality went downhill noticeably.

However, they seem to have turned that around!

A lot of their new guns are looking, feeling, and shooting much better these days.

If you are having trouble deciding, let’s examine a few considerations.

• If you want a gun, you can service and fix yourself, choose the Mossberg 500 series.

• If you want a gun that uses a pistol grip with stock, then choose the Remington 870.

• If you want a gun that you can abuse and not spend a ton of money on buy a basic Mossberg 500.
• If you want a gun, you can beat up and likely pass on down to your kids, buy an OLDER Remington 870.
• If you’re left-handed, go with a Mossberg.
• If you want a gun that’s tight, smooth, and feels ultra-lux, go with the Remington 870 Wingmaster.

• If you want what the military uses, go with the Mossberg 590A1.

And if you want even more options, we also have a video on the Best Pump Action Shotguns for Beginners.

Conclusion

Both the Remington & Mossberg are super popular and reliable pump action shotguns. Mossberg has the ambidextrous safety, double-extractor, nicer shell lifter, tons of upgrades, and is used by the military. While Remington has the smoother action, steel receiver, and better pistol grip setup.

The right one for you is a personal choice, but now you have the tools to make that choice.

My big question to you is, which one is for you, and why? Let us know in the comments! Don’t forget to get some feed for your new shotty, take a look at The Best Shotgun Ammo: Home Defense & Target Shooting! Or if you want to upgrade it…Best Home Defense Shotgun Upgrades.

To see the Benelli M4 in action, check out the video above. For more gun content, make sure to subscribe to Pew Pew Tactical on YouTube.

Tactical shotguns are favorites among the home-defense crowd, known for their reliable performance and ability to adapt to close quarters environments.

And the Benelli M4 is no exception. This Italian 12-gauge has a reputation for being a solid autoloading shotgun with style, unlike most others.

But what makes this shotgun so good?

Well, we’re going to find out today as we explore the legendary M4. Spoiler alert: it’s a beast.

I’m going to run you through the specs and features; then, we’ll take it to the range here in my home state of Tennessee and at Thunder Ranch in Oregon.

By the end of this article, I might just have you convinced why I think the M4 is one of the best combat shotguns on the market.

So, if you’ve ever caught yourself gazing at the M4 and wondering, “what if,” keep reading…

Let’s get the boring stuff out of the way first.

The M4 is a 12-gauge automatic shotgun with a barrel that sits at 18.5-inches. It eats 2 3/4 or 3-inch shells and comes in a few different models.

Mine happens to be the anodized black version.

It weighs in at a hefty 7.8-pounds with an overall length of 40-inches.

Controls sit where you expect, with the cross-bolt safety located where you need it.

Some say the bolt release is a little small, but I think it’s okay.

The ergonomics are fantastic on this shotgun. That over-molded pistol grip feels big and solid — perfect for handling heavier loads.

(By the way, I think for a combat shotgun, you need to go with a pistol grip.)

On the front, the M4 shipped with a plastic front grip.

It was okay, but I opted for an aftermarket M-LOK handguard so I could add a flashlight down the road.

As far as aesthetics, the M4 looks great.

The Benelli branding is minimal and super clean – though I have no idea why an Italian gun has an American flag on it. Regardless, I like it.

It didn’t come with much, just a box and the gun itself. So, I added one of our own Pew Pew Tactical Flatline rifle straps and a red dot.

ARGO

As I mentioned, this gun is a beast. It runs and runs well, but what makes it all work?

At the heart of the M4 rests the Auto-Regulating Gas-Operated system.

The ARGO system offers a short-stroke, dual-piston design. It was originally created and approved for use by the U.S. Marines in 1998.

And this bad boy thrives on heavier loads. Not to mention, the pistons are self-cleaning.

But if you do need to clean it, it all field strips super easy with no tools. It’s a ridiculously simple design.

Personally, I love that it is self-cleaning, not because I’m afraid to clean a gun. But because it runs clean.

The M4 will run forever in the field, and you won’t have to worry about reliability.

Why So Expensive?

Get the aloe, y’all…this is going to burn.

Depending on the setup, MSRP on the Benelli M4 comes in between $2,000 and $2,300.

Street price is $1,800 to $1,900 unless you want the collapsible stock…which is unobtanium.

And if you do find one, expect to double the price of the gun.

Full disclosure, I paid full pandemic price for mine – buy once, cry like six times.

Why is this gun so darn expensive?

Blame it on the Italians, man. Italian shotguns have long held the reputation for being premium builds with top-of-the-line pricing.

While $2,300 seems steep, compared to other Italian guns (like Beretta’s DT11 topping out at $20,000…no typo there), it’s kind of a steal at $2K.

But really, with the M4, you pay for the reliability.

This shotgun will literally go through the apocalypse with you. You can’t stop it.

And that tends to be well worth the price, especially if you consider it for defensive purposes.

With all that said and done, let’s talk about how it did at the range…

How Does the M4 Shoot?

I took the M4 to Thunder Ranch for a private shotgun class with Clint Smith.

TV Guide version: it feels like a precision machine – smooth and easy.

Back home in Tennessee, I used Kent number 7 alongside some higher brass turkey loads, which I think are Winchester.

One of the things I like about this gun is the trigger. It’s short, light, and crisp. No complaints here.

Combat loading on the M4 feels super clean. You just drop in a shell, hit that release, and you’re ready to rock and roll.

The rubber on the stock and the overall weight eat a lot of the recoil, meaning you can run this all day without needing to see your chiropractor.

Accuracy-wise…it gets the job done. I mean, the Marines use it for a reason. I brought out a bag of Granny Smith apples for my testing because blowing stuff up with shotguns is a good time.

I also used rifled slugs to touch out to 100-yards.

How’d she do? Just fine. Again, smooth is the word of the day, and that’s how she ran.

Even with the stock iron sights, the M4 just works. I eventually added a Sig Sauer Romeo 5 to mine, and that ups the ante.

(If you need some optics suggestions, check out our guide to the Best Red Dots for Shotguns.)

Downsides to the M4

Now, everything has a downside. There’s no such thing as perfect, and the M4 has a flaw – the capacity.

Because of our wonderful government and 922R nonsense, all M4s come as a 5+1. That’s kind of lame.

Also, you may hear guys on the internet say the M4 doesn’t do so well with light loads. In my experience, it eats light loads just as well as it eats the big stuff.

Again, it’s durable and built like a tank, but it’s heavy. Fully loaded, it sits at over 10-pounds, so eat your Wheaties.

Also, once more, there’s the price. This gun ain’t cheap.

And the aftermarket goodies are high too. The entire M4 market is a little out of control. Blame John Wick. And the Italians. And the Marines.

But speaking of the aftermarket…

Benelli M4 Upgrades

One of my favorite things about the Benelli M4 is the upgrades…there’s a lot! From foregrips to magazine tubes to optics and lights, you can customize what you want.

Need some help getting started?

Off the bat, swap out the standard sights for some Meprolight Night Sights.

Then throw on a red dot. I used the Sig Sauer Romeo 5, but the Trijicon RMR works too.

While we’re talking optics if you want to mount the optic low enough to co-witness with irons, grab a Scalarworks Mount.

Remember how I said it has a low capacity? You can work around that with a Mesa Tactical Sureshell Carrier.

Also, grab an M-LOK handguard to throw on some accessories. One of our other writers, Travis, prefers the Strike Industries Hayl Rail.

In fact, Travis has a whole article dedicated to his favorite Benelli M4 upgrades.

By the Numbers

Reliability: 5/5

Some guys on the interweb have complained about trouble with birdshot. For me and multiple thousands of rounds of birdshot, the M4 is perhaps the most reliable gun I’ve ever run.

Ergonomics: 4/5

The big grip is fantastic, and the controls are solid. The foregrip it comes with is so-so but is an easy replacement for something bigger.

Accuracy: 5/5

Rifled slugs at 100-yards? Fuggedaboutit.

Customization: 5/5

The aftermarket for the M4 is robust, albeit overpriced — lots of options for magazine tubs, night sites, rails, handguards, and more. OK, maybe not as many options as we’re used to in the AR world…but for a shotgun, the Benelli is the top of the heap for dialing in your gun.

Value: 4/5

You get a LOT for the price. But boy, that price…

Overall: 4.5/5

This is a little odd because I call the M4 the best combat shotgun on planet Earth…so shouldn’t it be a 5/5? Well, that price is painful, and it’s heavy. And I think most folks will want to swap out a couple of things on their stock Benelli. So yeah, it’s a crazy solid gun…but still sitting at a 4.5.

Conclusion

Benelli’s M4 stands as a shining example of what a good Italian auto shotgun can do.

Far and away, it’s the best combat shotgun on the market. This autoloader looks great, runs smooth, offers up a certain cool factor, and you can trust your life to it.

It earns two huge thumbs up for me. Without hesitation, I recommend you run out and buy an M4.

PPT Writer, Travis Pike, contributed to this review.

Again, to see the Benelli M4 in action, check out the video below.

What do you think of the Benelli M4? Let us know in the comments below. For more combat-style shotguns, make sure to peep our list of the Best Home Defense Tactical Shotguns.

Today I’m going to show you the best sights for Glock 34.

In fact:

I’ve hand- tested over 10sights alone for this review.

The best part?

I’ve sorted the sights by use. So whether you’re on a budget or need the best Glock 34 sight, you’ll find it here.

Let’s dive in!

The Best Sights for Glock 34

If you’re pressed on time, here’s a quick list of the best Glock 34 sights:

1. TRUGLO TFX Pro Tritium and Fiber Optic: Best Competition Sights for Glock 34
2. TRUGLO Tritium: Best Budget Sights for Glock 34
3. Trijicon HD XR Night Sight Set: Best Night Sights for Glock 34
4. AMERIGLO GL-125 Ghost Ring Green: Best Ghost Ring Sights for Glock 34

1. TRUGLO TFX Pro Tritium and Fiber Optic: Best Competition Sights for Glock 34

The TRUGLO TFX Pro Tritium Fiber Optic Sight is the best competition sight for Glocks.

In fact:

TRUGLO TFX Pro has completely transformed my results in short-range competitions. Since I began using them, my shot groupings are tighter, and my accuracy improved.

Sound like something you’re interested in?

Keep reading…

Tritium and Fiber Optics

One of my favorite features about the TFX Pro is the combination of tritium and fiber optics.

While tritium continuously glows, it’s best suited for night and lowlight because its luminescence isn’t noticeable in bright light. The fiber optic compensates for tritium’s daytime dullness because it absorbs ambient light, enabling it to glow in bright settings.

While I use these sights mainly for competition—usually in well-lit ranges—being able to rely on the tritium fiber optic combo assures me that I’m well-equipped to handle any self-defense scenario in all lighting conditions.

Eye Relief & Eye Box

The eye relief is unlimited.

This is great because—in addition to keeping both eyes open—I can get a sight picture from various distances and at different angles.

This is especially useful for self-defense, as these scenarios often unfold quickly with little time to aim.

Durability

The TFX Pro is built like the Titanic.

The rods are made from CNC machined steel coated with TRUGLO’s Fortress Finish, making it wear-resistant.

Unlike older TRUGLO sights, the tritium and fiber optics are hermetically sealed in the TFX Pro. This is great because it prevents damage during usage and also protects the tritium and fiber optics from oils, chemicals, and cleaning solvents.

While this means that the front sight is a bit longer, it ensures that your tritium and fiber optics are protected.

I don’t get hung up with the longer front sight, but I can see how it might be a hassle if you’re using a holster. So make sure to assess whether adding these sights impacts the ease with which you draw your weapon.

The rear sights come with a tensioning screw for the dovetail, so they don’t budge—even if you hit them. I appreciate the added security because it ensures that your rear sights stay put when doing one-handed manipulations.

A perk to the tritium and fiber optics is that it’s battery-free and long-lasting since tritium and fiber optics have a half-life of 12 years.

Front and Rear Sights

The contrast between the orange ring and the three green dots in the sight picture makes acquisition seamless and improves accuracy.

Although the orange ring dims in low light, it didn’t stop me from getting a good sight picture.

The rear sights’ U-notch design also promotes quick acquisition, and its elevated ledges make for easy one-handed manipulations.

I find that the U-notch’s width also provides adequate spacing between the rear and front sights in my sight picture, which helps accuracy.

Installation

Both front and rear sights are easy to install.

The sights come with an Allen wrench and tensioning screw, but I also used a

TRUGLO front sight tool:

A sight pusher:

And 242 Blue Loctite:

Just make sure that the front sight is installed tightly. Otherwise, it’ll be wobbly.

If you don’t want to install it on your own—or don’t own tools and don’t want to buy them—drop by your gunsmith for an installment.

Is the TRUGLO TFX Pro worth it?

If you want to compete with a Glock, or want sights that are optimal for self-defense, get the TRUGLO TFX Pro.

It’s got:

• Strong build
• Easy one-hand operation
• Around the clock visibility
• Quick focus and accuracy

You should know that TRUGLO only honors the 12-year warranty if your sights are installed by a licensed gunsmith. So if it’s detectable that you installed them, the warranty is voided.

Honestly, for the price, I think these are great sights. They’re made with quality material, and the Fortress Finish provides excellent protection, so you shouldn’t run into any longevity or functionality issues.

So if you’re looking for simple, but accurate and easy to use sights that are always ready to go, I would definitely buy the TRUGLO TFX Pro.

2. TRUGLO Tritium: Best Budget Sights for Glock 34

TRUGLO Tritium Night Sights are the best budget sights for the Glock 34.

In fact:

I used to have these mounted on my home defense and concealed carry pistols because of their unparalleled performance and price.

Here’s what I like about them…

Sights

These sights use the familiar three-dot design: two glowing green dots on the rear sight and one green dot on the front.

In the brighter lighting, the rear sights turn black while the front sight turns white to match the large focus and lock ring.

So, even in the daylight, these sights are guiding my eye for faster, more accurate target acquisition.

Tritium And Fiber Optics

What really makes these sights stand out is the dual tritium and fiber optic feature.

The tritium green dots glow at night without batteries, while the fiber optic white sights gather and magnify the light from the surrounding area. So they’re good in daylight, low light and no light situations.

I can use them while hunting day or night, but I also like having them for home defense.

You never know what the situation could look like, so knowing that I can use them in dim or no light situations puts me at ease.

Notch Style and Design

I have these sights on a couple of different guns, but I prefer them on my Glock 34.

I test and work with a lot of different pistols, so switching to the Glock with a heavier barrel always throws off my accuracy. Using sights, especially ones that perform to the caliber that these do, help me.

The U-Notch rear sight is designed for fast accuracy, not beauty.

The rear sight doesn’t blend well with the slide. It’s ugly to say the least, but it’s more than functional.

The angled rear sight also lets me rack the gun with one hand right off my belt — another great feature for home defense.

Durability

The TRUGLO Tritium is far more durable than any other sights in their price range, but they’re not indestructible.

I’ve shot hundreds and hundreds of rounds with these sights on my Glock 34. But, I noticed that after maybe 500 rounds, the front sight had come loose.

So if you intend on putting thousands of rounds through your gun, I’d go for a higher end glock 34 sight, like the TFX Pro.

Speaking of sights, if you’re looking for a high-end, mid-level priced optic, check out my review on the Leupold VX-R.

Mounting & Installation

You don’t have to make a special trip to a gunsmith to have these installed.

It took me less than 10 minutes to install these on my Glock 34. The front sight takes a hexagonal screw, while the rear sight is installed with an allen screw.

The drawback to the longer front sight is that it sticks out over the cutout on the top of the slide on the 34 (and 35) Glock. Not only does this not look as clean, but it can also compromise the sight’s lifetime.

What I did to fix this was to use some Loctite Threadlocker Blue 242 to prevent the screws loosening over time. I haven’t had an issue since.

Is the TRUGLO Tritium worth it?

Because of their performance in low-light and no-light situations, I love these sights for my home and self-defense Glock 34. The snag-resistant design gives me a clean draw every time, so I’m ready faster.

If you’re looking for an affordable sight that outperforms its cost, these are the sights for you. Here’s why:

• Affordable
• U-Notch rear sight
• Tritium and Fiber Optic
• 12 year, limited warranty
• Unmatched visibility in all light conditions

In other words:

These sights have all of the premium features at half the cost. That’s why they’re my go-to for home and self-defense pistol sights.

With all the money I save, that’s more that I can put toward buying ammo and more time shooting.

So if you’re looking for the best night sights for your Glock 34 that won’t break the bank, I wouldn’t think twice about getting the TRUGLO Tritium Night Sights.

3. Trijicon HD XR Night Sight Set: Best Night Sights for Glock 34

The Trijicon HD XR Night Sight Set is a fantastic set of self-luminous iron sights for use in all lighting conditions.

In fact, I think they are the best night sights available for the Glock 34.

Let’s find out why…

Visibility

Hands down, these are the most visible pistol iron sights I’ve ever used. And I’ve tested them in all lighting conditions.

Sight acquisition during low light and night conditions is fantastic. The green lamp tubes in the sights glow very brightly in the dark. I really like this feature on my home defense Glock, because if I need it, odds are I will need it at night!

But these sights are also great during the daytime. The lamp tubes are housed within an orange outer ring which is insanely easy to see in the light.

In fact, even if you don’t plan on doing much night shooting, I still recommend these sights just for the orange ring alone. It’s that good.

Accuracy

Simply put, these iron sights are very accurate.

I mounted them on my Glock 34 and the point of impact is right above the front post.

And after months of regular shooting, I haven’t noticed any shifting at all.

I also noticed that the HD XR has a thinner front post than most other iron sights.

The thinner post doesn’t obscure your target. This is great for shooting at longer ranges, and allows for better target identification at any distance.

Durability

The HD XR Night Sights are very durable.

This is because the lamp tubes are held in an anodized aluminum frame.

This makes them much stronger than standard plastic Glock sights, but still keeps them very light.

Mounting

You’ll want to have these installed by a professional using proper gunsmithing tools.

So take a quick trip to the gunsmith, and you’ll be all set to shoot in any light conditions.

Is the Trijicon HD XR Night Sight Set worth it?

Overall, the Trijicon HD XR Night Sight Set is a fantastic set of high-visibility, durable iron sights for your Glock 34.

They’ve got:

• Durable metal frame
• Bright green lamp tubes for night shooting
• High visibility orange ring for daytime shooting
• Slim profile front post that doesn’t obscure your target

Plus, the sights are covered under Trijicon’s Limited Lifetime Warranty.

So whether you want to shoot during the day, the night, or somewhere in between, the Trijicon HD XR Night Sight Set is your best bet.

Looking for an optic for your 7.62×39? Check out our guide to the top choices.

4. AMERIGLO GL-125 Ghost Ring Green: Best Ghost Ring Sights for Glock 34

The AmeriGlo GL-125 Ghost Ring is a highly accurate, highly visible ghost ring custom tailored for Glock pistols.

In fact, it’s the best ghost ring you can buy for the Glock 34.

I don’t make this claim lightly. Read on to find out why the GL-125 is the best Glock 34 ghost ring on the market.

Accuracy

The GL-125 is incredibly accurate.

This is due to the design of the ghost ring, which uses an aperture instead of a traditional notch for the rear sight. Basically, it’s a circle, so it draws the eye naturally to the center while allowing you to focus on the front post.

This helps you level your pistol both correctly and quickly, which makes for accurate shots. Target acquisition is quicker with a ghost ring too, which is great for use with a defense weapon.

In fact, since using the GL-125 on my Glock 34, I’ve noticed that my shooting with all pistols has improved. The skills I’m perfecting by using the ghost ring transfer well even to the standard notch-and post sights on most of my other handguns.

Visibility

This ghost ring shows up perfectly well in any lighting conditions.

The tritium lamps glow a very bright green, which is easy to see in low-light or even total darkness.

And the white circle around the lamp on the front post is very easy to pick up in the daylight.

This means that day or night, you’ll be able to reliably put shots on target.

Durability

This ghost ring is insanely durable.

The ghost ring and front post are both made with a steel frame, so they can take all kinds of abuse.

I’ve even practiced racking the slide on my Glock one handed, using the sights and my belt, and they didn’t budge. Hopefully I’ll never need to use that skill, but it’s good to know I can do it in an emergency!

Mounting

Installing the GL-125 was a breeze. I didn’t even have to take it to the gunsmith.

Just snap them in place, and get to shooting.

Is the AMERIGLO GL-125 Ghost Ring worth it?

Overall, the AmeriGlo GL-125 Ghost Ring is a fantastic all-purpose Glock sight suitable for all shooting conditions.

It’s got:

• High durability
• Easy self-installation
• Aperture-style rear sight
• White circle for day shooting
• Bright green tritium lamps for night shooting

And if all that isn’t enough, the ghost ring is covered by AmeriGlo’s standard warranty.

So if you’re looking for a good alternative to traditional notch-and-post pistol sights for your Glock 34, look no further than the AmeriGlo GL-125 Ghost Ring.

Need an optic for your AR-15? Check out my guide to the 7 Best AR-15 Scopes and Optics.

Now It’s Your Turn

I hope you enjoyed my best sights for Glock 34 guide.

So as a recap:

If you’re looking for the best competition sights for Glock 34, get the TRUGLO TFX Pro Tritium and Fiber Optic.

Looking for the best sights for Glock 34 under budget? Choose TRUGLO Tritium.

How about the best night sights for Glock 34? Then opt-in for Trijicon HD XR Night Sight Set.

Lastly, if you are looking for the best ghost ring sights for Glock 34, I’d recommend AMERIGLO GL-125 Ghost Ring Green.

That said, you can’t go wrong with any of these options. After all, I have hand and torture tested all the above sights, and proved to be reliable.

Now I want to turn it over to you:

Which scope will you pick for your Glock 34?

Let me know by leaving a quick comment down below.

Raccoons are common cohabitors with humans all across North America. These large and furry critters are definitely charming, at least when they are at rest, thanks to their dusky gray fur, iconic black mask, and ringed, puffy tail.

And those little paws that are so much like hands in their dexterity!

Precious, but these mobile mammalian miscreants have something of an unsavory reputation thanks to their propensity for breaking into trash, sheds, and even homes in search of food, even stealing it right out the bowls of our pets. The nerve of these procyons!

Unlike most other mammalian pests raccoons represent something of a challenge when it comes time to get rid of them, or relocate them.

This is due to their high intelligence, dexterity, and persistence which put most other animals to shame.

You can find hours and hours of video content on YouTube and elsewhere chronicling people’s trials and tribulations attempting to catch or otherwise dispatch these clever adversaries.

But as it turns out raccoons do have one weakness, an Achilles’ heel you might say. They love food, really love it.

Since they are so preoccupied with obtaining choice and delicious fare it is easy to manipulate raccoons into a trap or a spot where they are easy to dispatch by luring them with the right bait. In this article, we will share with you 10 foods that make ideal raccoon bait.

Know Your Enemy

Before you can set off placing bait for any animal you want to catch, it is beneficial to know a little bit about its behaviors, preferences, and food acquisition strategies.

Raccoons are absolutely voracious and vigorous pilferers of any sort of food stuff that they have access to, from the leftovers and kitchen scraps and trash cans to a bowl of dog or kitty litter left out for the family pet. Nothing seems to be safe or beyond interest for these furry thieves!

That is because raccoons are omnivorous, and indeed might be one of the most omnivorous animals on Earth.

This means that they eat a varied and mixed diet, consisting of animal, insect, and plant matter. Worms and insects are favorites as are aquatic items like crayfish.

That being said, raccoons are noted through study as developing strong individual preferences for food, and in social settings, raccoons occupying a given area will strongly gravitate towards foods typical in that area.

Urbanized raccoons will develop a fondness for human food and often pet food. Raccoons living in more remote places will eat a mixed diet of insects, worms, nuts, berries, and other natural fares.

Though they do not take larger live prey often if ever, they will happily scavenge from carcasses or found sources of animal protein.

Curiously, raccoons always show a strong preference for very moist food and even indulge in what is known as “washing” behavior when they have a water source nearby: they dip and rub their food in water before consuming it.

If you notice a strong bias towards wet, moist, and juicy food on our list below, you’ll now know why!

Raccoons are also highly motivated by scent, and that means the more fragrance that is generated the more appetizing and irresistible it will be for the raccoon in question.

This means that foods that are oily, stinky, or otherwise known for potent fragrance will be your best bet much of the time. Class dismissed, let’s get to the list.

The Best Raccoon Baits You Can Use

1. Marshmallows

Believe it or not, quite a few pest control professionals and several raccoon-catching experts will advocate the use of marshmallows for catching raccoons in suburban and urban areas.

First, these raccoons usually take up with sugary, sweet human foods pretty quickly and some folks even postulate the bright white coloring of the marshmallow catches moonlight at night when raccoons are most active, arousing their curiosity since they might mistake it for bird or reptile eggs, one of their most commonly poached food items in the wild.

If you want to try marshmallows for nabbing a raccoon lurking around your property, you should try both the small, button-sized ones and the larger, extra fluffy ones.

The raccoons might show a preference for one or the other, or they might not, but you should not underestimate how many a raccoon could eat in a short time.

You might need a backup bag to keep enticing them, and remember that raccoons are social, so they are likely to be traveling with friends!

2. Sardines

It is harder to think of a food it is more intensely, ah, flavored and more pungent than sardines.

These cans of tiny fish are definitely a love it or hate it delicacy among humans, and a surefire way to start a fight on pizza night is to include them on a pie intended for sharing.

Nonetheless, raccoons that are acclimatized to aquatic foodstuffs will find them utterly irresistible.

As mentioned above, raccoons have a preference for moist and highly odorific food and sardines check both of those boxes with big, bold red markers.

Sardines will dry out reasonably quickly when removed from their can, so consider dumping them out into a bowl or small dish that will help keep them moist.

Additionally, the larger the surface area that you can provide for their oil will only increase the loft or throw of the scent, increasing the chances that the raccoon will detect it sooner.

3. Peanut Butter

There hardly seems to be a mammal you cannot catch with peanut butter. Mice and rats love it, dogs love it, and as it turns out raccoons lose their minds for the stuff.

This is because the raccoons have always displayed a strong preference for acorns, walnuts, and other nuts throughout history and they are a staple foodstuff for wild raccoons that have not been exposed to human activity or human trash.

You can easily exploit this baked-in preference for delicious nuts by using peanut butter as bait.

Yes, I know that peanuts aren’t real nuts, but they are not analogs as far as food is concerned and are packed with protein and fat which means raccoons will love them.

Peanut butter always has an advantage as bait because it is cheap, and plentiful and the smell won’t drive you out of your mind. It is also easy to set up in or around a trap in any way that might be desired.

4. Roasted Poultry

Roasted poultry is fine raccoon bait, and smells just as appetizing to them as it does to us.

Contrary to legend, it is a vanishing rarity that a raccoon could ever catch and eat a live bird if it was even to attempt at all, though they are in veteran consumers of both bird and reptile eggs as mentioned above.

That being said, you will not find a raccoon in the land that will turn down a delicious dinner of roasted turkey or chicken.

You can use scraps of meat from your own meal, old leftovers that you were going to throw out anyway or even cold cuts from the deli counter that you heat up and slather with a little broth or gravy.

All you need to remember is that raccoons show a strong preference for wet or moist food, so don’t let it dry out and you’ll ensure that the scent stays on the wind and the raccoons will be drawn in like moths to a flame.

5. Roasted Pork

Similar to the roasted poultry entry above, there is just something about a roasted ham slice that raccoons cannot resist. And who can blame them!

Pork is fatty, salty, and delicious according to most human methods of preparation, and the same characteristics that make pork desirable to us mean it will be desirable to the masked bandits.

You have all sorts of ways to prepare pork and any one of them will do fine for raccoon catching so long as you follow the guidelines.

Scraps of pork pulled from a whole hog that has been barbecued are ideal, as are thick-cut ham steaks, something the raccoon can really sink its teeth into.

But you could use thicker dinner cut pork slices, pork chops, or even thin-sliced deli ham. Just remember to keep it moist one way or the other and it won’t be long before your guests show up.

6. Tuna

By now you probably saw the heading for this entry and nodded to yourself: “Yep, that’s good raccoon bait!”.

And you’d be right because tuna is fish, which raccoons typically love, stinky and wet and just the way they like it.

This makes tuna a triple threat for raccoons that works about as well as a mind-control spell. They cannot help themselves!

Tuna has a major advantage for catching raccoons in that typically wild raccoons as well as urbanized ones both enjoy it, so if you are ever in doubt you can head down to the grocery store or even your local corner store and grab a couple of cans.

Just make sure you get tuna that is packaged in oil, not water, if at all possible. Remember, the stinkier the better!

7. Soft Candy

Soft candies of various kinds are another good bait option for raccoons in an urban or suburban environment.

Remember that raccoons are opportunists, and there have been plenty of sweet treats pillaged by these tricky little rascals either sitting in storage, in transit or thrown out in the trash.

That means that raccoons occupying these environments have a serious sweet tooth, a sweet tooth you can exploit.

You should choose candies that are soft and easy to eat not only to make them more palatable but also to ensure that more of their scent gets on the wind.

Assuming the candy will hold up to some extra moisture, it might be a good idea to wet them gently in order to increase their fragrance, and don’t worry about it if they get caught in the rain. Raccoons never mind soggy food!

8. Fruit

Raccoons are perennial fruit eaters, of all kinds, and they especially love soft, juicy sweet fruits like watermelon, cantaloupe and pineapple.

That being said they will eat pretty much any kind of fruit, from plums and grapes to berries and apples. So long as the fruit is cut open or the raccoons can smell it they will be drawn to it.

Brightly colored fruit seems to work best but you can use anything you have on hand. Fresh fruit will work as will canned fruit, so you don’t need to be picky because raccoons sure aren’t.

That being said, make sure you keep a close eye on your bait and refresh the fruit when it starts to rot or dissolve away. Fruit more than most bait seems to do best when it is fresher.

9. Soy Sauce

Soy sauce is not a food per se but it is a condiment and therefore it is technically a food for the purposes of this list.

Regardless, it is extremely pungent and can be poured on other items to greatly increase the loft of its scent, making it a sort of “amplifier” for other baits.

This can be used with otherwise only modestly-appealing baits like bread or added to high-quality baits like roasted pork or poultry to make a dish that will be calling in raccoons from across the county.

If you are struggling to catch a raccoon with what baits you have on hand, consider adding a little shot of warmed soy sauce to it and pouring some extra on the plate or around the dish where you have placed the bait.

This will always give raccoons extra incentive to investigate the intoxicating aroma.

10. Cat/Dog Food

You should have figured this one out long before you ever thought about actually having to get around to catching the raccoon.

Most people find themselves in this situation because of chronically stolen pet food and increasing numbers of hungry, grasping little hands looking for a handout at night.

Raccoons love pet food, particularly cat and dog kibble as well as the ever-precious wet food.

You don’t need to swim uphill if you are trying to bait a raccoon that has been stealing your pet’s food.

Simply relocate some of the food into the animal trap or killzone and wait for the little mongrel to show up and collect his due.

As always, wet food generally works better but if you have dry food that’s okay, simply put out a little dish of water to go with it because apparently there is nothing raccoons love more than dipping dry pet food in a nearby bowl of water.

Conclusion

Raccoons are the half-glutton, half-gourmand of the animal world, and there is a wide variety of baits that will work wonderfully when it comes time to lure them into a diy trap or an ambush.

Read over the suggested baits we have furnished you with on this list and assess them against the environment your raccoons are in. I have no doubt that you’ll have a handful that will work wonderfully.