Are you trying to determine which is the best Shimano spinning reel for your specific fishing needs? There are many options to pick from, so choosing the right reel can be challenging. In this article, we asked our fishing community to recommend their favorites so you can decide for yourself.

How to Choose the Right Shimano Spinning Reel

As you have probably figured out by now, the Shimano brand offers spinning reels that share several noteworthy features. Your choice of the fishing reel should be based on your preferences, style of fishing, the type of fish you’re targeting, and a reputable brand.

Size and Weight

The size of the Shimano spinning reels you get should depend on the size of the fish you want to catch. For instance, if you are targeting smaller fish, a 500 to 1000-size reel should suffice. If your reel is too big for your line size, you will have more lines than you know what to do with, and it’ll be heavy to carry all day.

If you are going with a heavier line, you’d need a bit larger reel. It’d be worth checking out the Shimano Ci4 or FG.

The former is lightweight and made of carbon material that flexes just enough to tackle medium size fish. However, the Stradic FJ is more rigid, which makes it more robust against stronger or bigger fish.

Drag System

Every experienced angler knows that a spinning reel with weak drag is basically a useless reel, especially if you are trying to catch strong fish.

The importance of a quality drag system is in its smoothness and stopping power. Depending on the size of the fish you’re targeting, you’ll want the appropriate drag pressure.

However, when you have a drag system that isn’t smooth, you risk breaking off your fish due to the spikes in tension on the line.

Gear Ratio

Slower ones would be 5s:1 and 6s:1 for heavy loads, and faster gear ratios, i.e., 7:1 or above, are for moving lures quickly through the water.

These determine the speed at which fishing reels pick up the line. So if a reel has a gear ratio of 6.3:1, that means that the spool goes around 6.3 times for every turn the reel handle makes.

What makes gears extra special in these reels is that no cutting work is applied to them. Instead, the whole surface is designed using 3D technology and created via cold forging.

Propulsion Line Management System and Aero Wrap II

Shimano spinning reels feature a Propulsion Management System, one of the best features of which is the Propulsion spool lip design.

It provides a more extended casting range than the standard variety and prevents wind knots and backlashes from forming.

Reels that have the Aero Wrap II feature as well can benefit from optimal oscillation, uniform line lay, and winding shape, which prevents energy loss during casting. In simpler words, with a Shimano reel that has these two features, you can increase how far you cast without exerting yourself.

Line Capacity

The line capacity you want in your Shimano reel will depend on a few factors including.

• Size of the spool
• The line you use on the spool

For example, if you are using a mono line for a Shimano Baitrunner reel, you can get a line that is 265 yds long with a 12 lb test or a 170 yds long line that can withstand a 15lb test.

Similarly, if you prefer braid and are using, say, a Shimano AERO Technium reel, you can get a 60-yds long line that can withstand a 40lb test or a 460-yds line that can withstand a 50lb test.

Quality Materials and Construction

The Hagane design concept in Shimano reels ensures that they can withstand consistent use and extreme abuse in the toughest of conditions.

The strength and durability of the Hagane gearing, efficient power transmission of the X-Ship technology, and the rigid body of the reel maintain this concept in every reel.

All of these benefits come together to eliminate body flexing, which in turn translates into more cranking power.

Shimano Warranty

Shimano reels come with a two-year warranty beginning the moment they are purchased.

It should be noted, however, that this warranty does not cover reels that have incurred damage because of wear and tear or neglect.

Damage that has been inflicted by the end-user is not covered by the warranty, nor is repair, modifications, or improper reassembly. The removal of serial numbers is an absolute no-go and nullifies the warranty no matter the issue.

Shimano USA Headquarters: 1 Holland, Irvine, CA 92618

Shimano phone number: (949) 951-5003

1. Shimano Stella SW

Best Saltwater Spinning Reel

Available in 8 size ranges (from 5,000 to a whopping 30,000), the Shimano Stella SW comes in three gearing ratios. Its power aluminum body, along with an X-rigid rotor handle and body, works together to reduce power loss. Like other Shimano reels, it also features X-ship technology.

This includes two bearings that are situated at either end of the pinion gear and remain in place under heavy load. The Stella makes for high-quality tuna and sailfish reels, which are robust and pull like mad.

We love the aesthetics of this Shimano spinning reel as well as how smooth it casts. However, be prepared to shell out some significant cash for this beauty. The only thing that will put you a bit aback is the price, which is steep. Ultimately, it’s a Stella…you get what you pay for.

2. Shimano Stella FJ

Best Freshwater Spinning Reel

The Shimano Stella FJ spinning reel boasts a smooth drivetrain as well as X-protect. This allows it to resist water damage. The propulsion line management system offers long casting ability and prevents knots from forming in the reel.

The spool support of the main shaft has been strengthened in this model, ensuring smooth drag delivery under heavy loads.

This reel has MicroModule II gearing and silent drive, which provide the smoothest and quietest operation we’ve ever experienced. Again, the only setback might be the price.

3. Shimano Ultegra XSD

Best Long Cast Spinning Reel

Though not usually in the running for the best reel, you would be hard-pressed to find a reel better than the Shimano Ultegra XSD for its price.

Its instant drag system allows you to switch between fight drag and free spool easily. The Super Stopper II feature also prevents back play and free movement on the handle for smooth line management.

The Ultegra XSD spinning fishing reel’s propulsion line management system features the AR-C spool and a patented angled spool lip, which reduces line friction. The technology reduces drag and increases casting distance.

We love how smoothly this reel casts, but we wish the brand had paid more attention to the aesthetics. The fishing reel looks a bit plasticky at first glance.

4. Shimano Exsence

If you need one of the best spinning reels that can withstand harsh saltwater conditions, check out the Shimano Exsence. It features an internal labyrinth structure that repels corrosive saltwater even if you are soaked by the heavy spray.

Plus, the X-Ship technology, as well as the Hagane gear and body, ensure smooth winding and increased durability. Also, the G Free Body technology shifts the center of gravity of the reel closer to the rod and, thus, the angler’s hand position. This reduces fatigue and increases casting distance.

The Shimano spinning fishing reel embodies all of the best features the brand has to offer but in a more rugged and affordable package. There are no cons to this reel that we could see, making this one of the best Shimano spinning reels you can get for saltwater fishing.

5. Shimano Stradic Ci4

The Shimano Stradic Ci4 boasts a CoreProtect waterproof drag system and is exceptionally lightweight, both of which make it ideal for saltwater fishing.

With striking good looks and a smooth operation that is right up there with more expensive models, it is little wonder why the Stradic spinning reel is popular with anglers.

The EVA grip on the Stradic is a lighter alternative to plastic and does not get as slippery when it gets wet, either. Plus, the cold-forge aluminum spool provides extra strength and durability compared to graphite or diecast aluminum spools.

The Shimano Stradic Ci4 is so lightweight that it floats, which you will thank the brand for if it is dragged into the water by an overly feisty fish.

However, the size and position of the anti-reverse lever in this Stradic is a problem. It is located right up against the rotor under the reel and is tiny that you may have difficulty using it.

6. Shimano Stradic Ci4+ RA

Shimano Rear Drag Spinning Reel

The Shimano Stradic Ci4+ spinning reel is an advanced version of the Ci4 fishing reel, the only difference being that it is two and a half times stiffer in comparison. This reduces flexibility in the body and rotor even if the rod is under extreme pressure.

Plus, the Stradic Ci4+ has a 6:1 line retrieve gear ratio and Aero Wrap II oscillation for excellent line lay. The power roller also reduces line twists, which will come in handy if you use mono or braid. The Stradic Ci4+ also boasts five Shielded A-RB bearings for a powerful yet, silky-smooth performance.

The Ci4+ Stradic fishing reel’s rapid-fire drag and the fact that it is an incredibly lightweight reel, make it a must-buy. However, like the Stradic Ci4, it also has a tiny anti-reverse switch, which can be challenging to access, especially when you are trying to reel in a big catch.

However, it is one of the best Shimano spinning reels you can get if you are looking for a light yet robust fishing reel.

7. Shimano NASCI

Inshore Spinning Reel

The Shimano NASCI is one of the best Shimano spinning reels for freshwater as well as saltwater fishing. It boasts the Hagane gear technology for a smooth retrieve experience even under heavy loads. The NASCI is available in 5.0:1 and 6.2:1 gear ratio.

The fishing reel also features thick bail wire that prevents it from wrapping, which is only suitable for propulsion line management.

We love how the NASCI feels in our hands, especially if it is paired with the right rod. The spinning reel can give you hours of easy fishing with little fatigue. However, the spool is not braid-ready, and the reel is not fully sealed either, which can pose a problem.

Frequently Asked Questions

There are many adventures to add to your hunting bucket list, and pronghorn antelope hunting should be one of them. They provide hunters a good opportunity to fill a tag and have lots of fun during their spot-and-stalk hunt along the way. Pronghorn antelope live in regions with wide-open and expansive fields, grasslands, and rolling sage brush. They are common in many locations across the American West, but the following six states are our picks as the best states to hunt for pronghorn antelope.

Wyoming

The top pick for the best place for pronghorn antelope hunting is Wyoming. There are more pronghorn antelope in Wyoming than in any other state in the country. Of the approximated 1,100,000 pronghorn roaming throughout the country, the Wyoming Game & Fish estimates that 500,000 are in Wyoming. This means there’s a very stable population and excellent odds for a successful pronghorn hunt there.

Public land access is abundant in the western half of the state, thanks to a large amount of Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Federal lands. These tracts support a lot of antelope. Because of this, the demand for tags in western Wyoming is high. It might take a few years of applying before a hunter can draw a tag. It is a different story on the other side of the state. In the eastern half of Wyoming, antelope tags are much easier to draw, but public land access is more scarce. Most of the land in that part of Wyoming is privately owned. There are some pockets, however, where the state has arranged public hunting access into private property via the Walk-In-Only and Hunter Management Areas programs.

Arizona

Arizona is home to approximately 10,000 pronghorn, which are found mostly in the north-central portion of the state. Despite this lower number (relative to Wyoming), the pronghorn hunting in Arizona has been called the best in the world. Arizona is also consistently the top producer for record-class pronghorn. Prior to 2013, the pronghorn world record was shared by two bucks, both harvested in Arizona. Drawing a coveted Arizona pronghorn buck tag can be tricky, though. As in other states, hunters may have to apply for a tag year after year before finally drawing one.

New Mexico

Another place known for big pronghorn bucks is New Mexico. The Boone & Crockett world record came from New Mexico in 2013, when a buck harvested there surpassed the previous record by a decent margin of an inch and a half.

There is ample access to public land thanks to wide swaths of BLM lands. The biggest challenge in New Mexico isn’t finding big bucks or public land—instead, it is getting ahold of a non-resident pronghorn tag. In New Mexico, only 6 percent of the state’s tag allocation is set aside for hunters from out of state. The state’s lottery draw system gives everyone a fair chance, but the odds are not in their favor. One way to get around this is to hire a private guide or an outfitter. This is a good option for hunters who are unsuccessful in the lottery draw.

Texas

Texas has a sustainable population of pronghorn in the Trans-Pecos, Permian Basin, and Panhandle regions. As in other warm southern states, the pronghorn here get large. That is because they don’t have to expend so much energy to survive the cold winter months. In Texas, the hunting season for pronghorn is short, only one week. Don’t count Texas out, though—it is a great place to squeeze in some pronghorn hunting.

Colorado

Colorado has a healthy pronghorn antelope population of around 70,000. Pronghorn can be found in most areas throughout the state. The situation in Colorado is similar to that in Wyoming: On one end of the state, public land is plentiful but tags are difficult to acquire; and on the other end, tags are easy to get but access to land is not.

Montana

Montana is a solid option for pronghorn hunting. Access to public lands in most regions is plentiful. Hunters have a lot of options, including BLM lands, state lands and Montana’s Block Management Access system parcels. Montana Fish, Wildlife, and Parks estimates a statewide population of 158,000 pronghorn antelope. That makes it second only to Wyoming. Plus, the hunting season is longer than in many other states.

Non-resident tags can take a few years to draw; but unlike in some other states, hunters don’t typically have to wait decades to draw a Montana pronghorn tag. The bucks do not get quite as big as in some Southern states, but hunters have a decent chance to harvest.

READ MORE: 5 BEST STATES FOR BLACK BEAR HUNTING

The length of time it takes for a deer to decompose varies greatly according to environmental factors around the carcass. A deer carcass that is left to decompose without interference from scavengers may take around six months to completely decompose to bones.

Scavengers play a very important role in the decomposition of deer. They help eat the flesh from the bones and scattered the pieces exposing them to other agents of decomposition.

By puncturing the skin, they help in the circulation of oxygen into and out of the body which plays a big role in its decomposition.

Weather is also known to affect the rate of decomposition. Carcasses are known to decompose faster during summer when temperatures are high. Cold temperatures are known to preserve the body.

What is Decomposition?

Decomposition is the process where dead organic matter is broken down into simple organic and inorganic matter

All organic matter once dead needs to be broken down. If this did not happen, bodies and dead plants would be all over the world.

Decomposition helps in returning nutrients ingested back to the ground. Farmers have been known to decompose compost and add it to their to the soil in their farm to increase nutrients in the soil. Dead leaves that decompose on the forest floor add nutrients back to the soil which helps the forest to thrive.

Factors That Influence The Rate of Decomposition

Various factors influence the rate of decomposition. Below are some of them.

1. Temperature

Warmer temperatures promote decay. This is because they are favorable for bacteria activities. Cold temperatures inhibit bacterial activity. It is not uncommon for decomposition not to occur at extreme cold temperatures.

2. Moisture

Research shows that moisture plays an important role in the decomposition of dead matter. The higher the moisture content in the carcass the faster it is able to decompose.

Mummification occurs when the body has low moisture content and is exposed to extremely high temperatures. The body is normally preserved at this state because bacterial activities are not able to complete.

3. Oxygen

Oxygen influences aerobic bacterial activity. This means that the higher the oxygen levels the faster the rate of decomposition.

4. Insects

Insects like blowflies are attracted to rotting matter. They lay their eggs on open surfaces of the carcass which hatch into maggots.

The maggots crawl into the body, damage soft tissue while burrowing into them, liquefying the body and increasing heat. They feed on the dead body and later on emerge as adult flies.

5. Season / Climate

During fly season decomposition rates are higher. This is because of the availability of more flies which means that more maggots will be present to helping the decomposition of the carcass.

6. Animal Activity

scavengers are known to pick through dead bodies and find whatever is edible and eat it. While feeding, they end up scattering some of the body parts exposing them to other agents off decomposition.

What Decomposes a Deer?

A class of animals known as decomposers are responsible for the breaking down of dead matter. They include, fungi, bacteria, worms and insects.

Decomposers are animals that get their energy by feeding on dead plants and animals. They are also known for breaking down animal waste from which they get energy.

They play a very important role of keeping energy flowing throughout the ecosystem. By breaking down organic matter into simpler inorganic matter they make nutrients available for primary consumers.

Worms do not necessarily fall under decomposers. They are commonly known as detritivores. Worms, unlike bacteria who absorb the nutrients directly from their surroundings, feed on and digest their food internally.

What Happens When a Deer Decomposes?

When a deer decomposes, their flesh, internal organs and skin is completely broken down leaving behind only bones which take longer to decompose.

The dead body passes through several stages before it is completely disintegrated too bones. Below at the five stages in which the body Undergoes.

Stage One: Fresh

This is the stage a few hours after the animal dies. Blood stop circulating throughout the body and the limbs start stiffening due to chemical changes in the muscles.

The remains are free of insects. Blood flows and settles on the lower side closest to the ground. Body temperatures either drop or rise to match those of the surroundings.

Stage Two: Bloat

It is during this stage that bacteria present in the human body begins to digest the tissues. This activity causes them to release gases that fill the body making it to bloat.

The body starts emitting a foul smell as the bacteria do their work. The pressure exerted by the gases in the body forces fluids out through openings in the body.

The foul smell attracts blowflies which come and lay their eggs in the body. The maggots hatch and start feeding on body tissues that detach from the skin causing it to slip.

Stage Three: Active Decay

As bacteria and insects breakdown muscles and other organs a lot of mass is lost. Liquids released into the surrounding also contributes to the loss of body mass.

Body tissues liquefy and the skin turns black.

Stage Four: Advanced Decay

It is during this stage that the decomposition of tissues and cells together with the liquefaction of the body is almost complete. Most of the remains have darkened.

A lot of nutrients have been released into the soil surrounding the body increasing its fertility.

Stage Five: Dry Remains

Most of the body tissues and skin have already been decomposed and all that remains is a dry skeleton with perhaps some hair left.

Insects like beetles come and eat anything that might be left. The bones change in color and lighten up because of exposure to the sun. They are eventually covered up and disappear into the earth.

What to Do with a Decomposing Deer?

It is advisable to try and dispose of the body before it starts decomposing. This is to avoid other animals coming into contact with the dead body and avoid the foul smell from filling the area.

When other animals accidentally come into contact with the deer they might get infected by diseases carried by the dead deer. The sickness might spread throughout the herd causing many animals to get sick and die.

The best thing to do is to try and bury the body leaving it to decompose in the soil. This will release nutrients directly into the soil while avoiding anything coming into contact with the body.

If the animal died in a hard to reach place like at the bottom of a ledge, you can speed up the decomposition process by piercing the skin, increasing air circulation in and out of the carcass.

To avoid the foul smell, try pouring large amounts of lime and if possible vinegar to neutralize the smell.

Related Deer Articles:

• Are Deer Rodents?
• Can Deer Be Domesticated?
• Why Do Deer Stare At You
• Do Deer Hibernate?

Conclusion

Deer decomposition has its own advantages as it means that nutrients are able to return to the earth which will be used by other organisms.

It however produces foul smells and attracts disease spreading insects like blowflies. It is however a natural process that must occur.

I’ve been in a few needed-gear discussions through the years, and my pack is wiser and better for it after such campfire sessions.

In fact, if you happen to look through my pack right now, odds are you’ll find a few of those must-have items that weren’t always there before; things like a book or magazine to read, a roll of toilet paper, and a copy of the latest hunting regs.

By the way, if you’re going to rummage through my hunting pack, be sure to put down that package of Old Trapper Jumbo Kippered Beef Steak because it’s mine, and no, you can’t have it. The same goes for the Old Trapper Original Deli Style Beef Sticks, while we’re on the subject.

But there are other items in my pack besides some great-tasting beef jerky. And some, put simply, are so vital to a solid outcome that if you head into the woods without them, you’re not really ready to hunt, in my humble opinion.

With that in mind, here’s a guide to 10 indispensable items that every deer hunter will want to have handy in a hunting pack.

Bright Stuff

In all my years of hunting, one of the most indispensable items I’ve made a habit of never leaving home without is what I call “the bright stuff.” That includes a compact and bright flashlight, like those made by Surefire or Streamlight, tools that can help a hunter get to the stand way before dawn, back to the truck well after sundown, and during the O’ Dark Thirty search for a downed buck.

You’ll also find a headlamp. And batteries, don’t forget the extra batteries. Why? Because nothing—and I mean nothing—is as worthless as a bright flashlight or headlamp that won’t shine on a moonless night.

Sharp Stuff

If being able to find your way into and out of the dark deer woods is one necessity in a hunting pack, so, too, is a way of field dressing a downed buck and notching a deer tag. After all, that’s the end goal of a deer hunt, right?

Early in my hunting career, there was always a Buck Knives 110 Folding Hunter—besides being a timeless classic in the hunting knife world, it was also a Christmas present from my late grandmother Zelma—tucked away in a zippered pocket. There’s also a Knives of Alaska Cub Bear caping knife and a KOA Bobcat hatchet tool as well.

And since knives can see their edges dulled from use in the field, be sure that you have a knife-sharpening device of some sort, something like the multi-function, portable sharpening system, Smith’s Pak Pal Pocket.

Stand Prep Gear

While on the subject of sharp things, don’t forget a few tools for prepping the area around your deer stand.

Obviously, a good limb saw is a fine start in this department, as is a pair of brush-cutting shears, or garden pruners, to help snip away a limb or two that might block a clear shot path when Mr. Big comes calling. Since some public hunting areas won’t allow cutting or pruning activity, a handful of black or brown zip ties is a must to hold back protruding vegetation along with a few feet of paracord for the same purposes.

Gloves

Most hunters carry a pair of camouflage gloves (don’t forget the face mask or head net, either) in their pack, gloves that will help hide hands from the prying eyes of a deer cruising through the woods.

But there are two other types of gloves you’ll want in your pack as well. The first is a pair of leather or canvas work gloves for dealing with moving big tree limbs, pushing logs out of the way, or dragging a big buck out of the woods.

And last—but certainly not least—is a pair of field-dressing gloves in your pack, indispensable tools when it comes time to getting a downed buck ready for transport back to camp. After all, you plan on punching a deer tag on your next hunt, right?

Hunting Extras

I used to think having an extra bowhunting release or supply of rifle or muzzleloader bullets was overkill and just added unnecessary weight to a pack that already seemed heavy enough.

That is, until I dropped one of those items to the ground 20 feet below my treestand as shooting time arrived. Or discovered that such vital necessities were back in my pickup truck, two miles back down the trail and minutes before I expected Old Swamp Daddy to show up. In such instances, what’re a few extra ounces worth?

Rain Gear

I’ll be honest, if the day’s weather forecast shows an all-day downpour is coming, I’m probably going to skip out of deer hunting (unless there’s an enclosed hard ground blind I can sit comfortably in as everything gets drenched).

But for the times when an unexpected shower pops up on the radar, some lightweight rain gear is a blessing and a half, helping me stay warm, dry, and comfortable, just long enough for the woods to come alive as does and big-antlered bucks get up, shake themselves dry, and start to move again.

Hunting Calls

I’ll admit that I was once a skeptic about carrying hunting calls. You know, the extra weight thing, and the nagging question of whether or not they really worked.

But then came hunts where I saw firsthand proof that the grunt calls and rattling horns I wasn’t always sure about actually did work. In fact, I can still see the South Texas buck all wide-eyed and nostrils flaring as he came searching for a buck fight that didn’t exist.

Now, you’ll never find me in the deer woods these days without a grunt call, a fawn bleat call, and some way to simulate a pair of old bucks knocking their heads together again. Like doubting Thomas, I’m a believer now.

Power, Power, Power!

A high-school football coach friend of mine is fond of the running game for his program. After all, it’s worked wonders down through the years and sent a number of good running backs on to play college football. So, it’s no wonder that he often says that his favorite brand of gridiron action revolves around “Power, power, power!”

The same is true for deer hunters and the powering up of their smartphones or other electronic devices. While I could wax poetic here and say that we should leave such devices back at camp, none of us ever do.

And after texting back and forth to my wife about the adult kid’s Christmas lists, looking at e-mails from the boss, or checking the latest football score on a Saturday afternoon, I know firsthand how the cold temperatures and long hours of deer hunting can zap an electronic device of its life-giving power.

The solution? Keep a charged-up power supply handy in your pack, along with a power cord, and you’ll get through a long day of hunting with plenty of electronic juice to spare.

Hydration

In the good old days, I’d have probably just written something here about carrying a thermos of hot coffee or a bottle of water, something to wash lunch down and help keep a hunter hydrated.

But as a hunter moving through his 50s right now—loosely translated, that means that I have trouble staying alert and my muscles get sore pretty easily—I now opt for hydration that brings a benefit beyond simply slaking my thirst.

That means carrying a packet or two of hydration mixes from hunting nutritional product companies like Mossy Oak Wellness, Mtn Ops, or Wilderness Athlete, among others. Depending on what product you like, there are various flavor options as well as products that can help with muscle tissue recovery, a boost of energy without the caffeine-related crash, and even give a boost to your immune system.

Nutrition

Last, but not least, you’ll want to make sure that your pack has some way to fuel the big hunting engine known as your body, a way of gaining some nutrition, a few calories, and staving off a growling stomach until you can get back to camp and can grab a hot meal.

When planning for a lengthy deer hunting sit, I’m going to be packing food items like a turkey sandwich or two, two or three packages of peanut butter crackers, and a few sleeves of my favorite nuts or trail mix.

Whatever is going into my pack, I want food and snack items that are protein-rich, low on fat, skinny on carbs and calories, aren’t terribly smelly, and come in packages that are easy to open and don’t make a lot of noise as I’m fumbling around.

That leads to one of deer hunting’s most perfect snack options, the beef jerky products made by Old Trapper, the Oregon-based company founded in 1969 that is one of America’s leaders in making tasty and nutritious jerky products like the company’s time-honored Old Fashioned Beef Jerky in the clear 10-ounce packaging.

From a nutritional standpoint, the Old Fashioned flavor checks all of the boxes for yours truly: it’s low in fat (as in zero percent for overall fat and saturated fat daily allowances), it’s low in per-serving calories (70) and carbs (6 grams), and it packs a powerhouse punch of protein (11 grams).

Not to mention that it’s plenty darn tasty and satisfying, too. Plus, if you’re familiar with the history of the Forest Grove, Oregon, jerky-making company, then you’ll recognize that it’s this jerky—and its lean cuts of seasoned and lightly brown sugared beef—that started Old Trapper’s run to the top of the mountain, all out of the back of a small grocery store.

Today, the company still uses real wood, real smokehouses, and the time-honored processes that result in jerky that is never tough, always tasty, and a welcome part of any deer hunter’s pack.

Numerous other options are in the Old Trapper line-up too, including Old Trapper Teriyaki Beef Jerky; Old Trapper Peppered Beef Jerky; and Old Trapper Hot & Spicy Beef Jerky.

And don’t forget the Old Trapper Zero Sugar Beef Jerky; the oval coins of Old Trapper Old Fashioned Double Eagle Beef Jerky; or the company’s various snack stick products like the Old Trapper Teriyaki Deli Style Beef Stick and the Old Trapper Jalapeno Beef & Cheese Snack Stick among others.

In short, there’s a number of great items deer hunters need to keep in their hunting pack throughout hunting season, from the warm early days of September and October, to the bitter cold days of late December and early January as the buzzer gets ready to sound.

And while most all of these gear items are important in their own right, at the forefront of what needs to go into your pack are the beef jerky and meat snack products from Old Trapper, items that no deer hunting pack should be without.

Arguably, rifles are harder to shoot (and harder to shop for) than pistols and shotguns. Out to a certain distance, rifle shooting is pretty straightforward, but long-range shooting might be the most difficult kind of shooting there is. What’s more, you’ll often see many kinds of scopes and attachments on rifles. Do you need any of that stuff? How do you know if you do?

Buying your first rifle doesn’t have to be hard or confusing, as long as you ask the right questions and follow the right steps.

Why Do You Want a Rifle?

Most people buy rifles for one of three reasons: hunting, home defense or sport shooting. Most rifles are designed primarily for one of these three purposes, although some can fill multiple roles fairly well. For your first rifle, we recommend focusing on just one of these applications — whichever is most important to you. Later in this guide, we’ll offer some tips on how to choose the best rifle for your specific needs. If you’re more interested in a different kind of firearm, we have a guide to buying your first handgun and a guide to buying your first shotgun, too.

Know the Law

Under federal law, you must be at least 18 to purchase a rifle from a gun shop or licensed firearm dealer. Most states have the same requirement, but in some places, the minimum age may be higher. Be sure that you understand the law before attempting to purchase a firearm.

Other legal requirements apply. To purchase a rifle, you must:

• Not have any past criminal convictions, with certain limited exceptions

• Not have undergone treatment for drug or alcohol addiction within the last five years

• Not suffer from any disease or mental illness that could impair your judgment

• Be a U.S. citizen or legal immigrant

• Obey all other state and county laws in your place of residence

If you need help finding or understanding your local firearm laws, contact the police department or sheriff’s office. They’ll be happy to help you fill in the blanks.

Types and Parts of Rifles

Before you buy your first rifle, you should have a basic understanding of the vocabulary of firearms, as well as the types of rifles and how they work. We won’t cover everything there is to know about rifles here, just the fundamentals. You can find a more detailed breakdown in our guide to identifying the parts and functions of a rifle.

• Rifle bullets are measured by caliber, which describes the diameter of the bullet in either inches or millimeters. Generally, you can assume that the measurement is in inches if it doesn’t have a “mm” specification, as in “7mm.” Larger bullets typically travel faster, hit harder, and inflict more damage, but depending on your needs, that may not be the ideal outcome.

• The barrel is the part of the rifle through which bullets travel after being fired. The end of the barrel (from which bullets exit) is called the muzzle, and the end closest to the shooter is called the breech or chamber.

• Depending on the type of rifle, bullets (also called “rounds”) are loaded into a detachable magazine, a tube magazine, or directly into the chamber by hand.

  • A magazine is a container that feeds bullets into the chamber, usually by means of a spring. Detachable magazines, as the name suggests, can be separated from the gun entirely. Tube magazines, on the other hand, are integrated into the rifle itself.

• The bolt is a heavy, cylindrical part driven by a spring or operated by hand. Its function is to push bullets out of the magazine and into the chamber.

• The charging handle, if present, enables the shooter to manually retract the bolt, and the bolt release allows it to return to its normal forward position.

• The stock rests against the shooter’s shoulder to provide support and stability.

• The trigger actuates the firing pin when pulled. The firing pin, in turn, strikes the primer of the bullet currently loaded into the chamber, igniting the gunpowder and causing the rifle to fire.

Action Type

There are many different rifle action types, but in most cases, the differences are negligible from the user’s perspective. For simplicity, we’ll go over semi-automatic rifles (a broad category), bolt-action rifles, and lever-action (or pump-action) rifles.

The majority of rifles owned and sold today are semi-automatic. These rifles use detachable or integrated magazines and fire one round with each pull of the trigger, with no further action required from the shooter. Many novice shooters prefer semi-automatic rifles for their simplicity and ease of use, although they’re typically more expensive.

Bolt-action rifles are close behind semi-automatic models in popularity. They may use detachable or integrated magazines, or they may require rounds to be loaded directly into the chamber by hand. After firing, the shooter must manually retract the bolt to eject the empty casing, then close it to chamber a new round. Bolt-action models are easy to use and often cheaper than semi-automatic rifles, making them another great choice for your first rifle.

Today, lever-action and pump-action rifles aren’t very common, but they’re still popular with certain kinds of shooters. Both have integrated, tubular magazines similar to those found on many shotguns. Shooters load rounds into the magazine individually, then chamber rounds by actuating the forearm or lever mechanism. Some shooters prefer inexpensive, pump-action rifles chambered in small calibers, such as .22LR, for target practice or varmint control.

Caliber Selection

When you’re ready to start shopping for your first rifle, we recommend choosing a caliber or range of calibers first, based primarily on the role you most want the rifle to fill.

There’s no official consensus on where the dividing lines are between small, medium, and large rifle calibers, but there are some especially common and popular calibers within each group.

• Popular small calibers include .22 LR, .22 WMR and .17 Hornet

• Popular medium calibers include .223/5.56, 7.62x39mm and 6.5mm

• Popular large calibers include 30-06, .308, and .50 BMG

If you plan to go hunting, caliber selection depends on what you want to hunt; you’ll need bigger bullets for bigger game. Sport and recreational shooters also choose calibers based on the particular sport. Different events call for different calibers, and there’s a lot of variance. Home-defense rifles should generally be medium-caliber, but overpenetration may be a major concern; we’ll cover this in more detail toward the end of this guide.

Carrying or Transporting Rifles in Public

In most states, it’s legal and fairly straightforward to transport long guns in your vehicle. Keep them in a case and unloaded to be safe. You can also check cased guns as baggage when you fly domestically—just make sure you comply with all TSA and airline-specific regulations.

It’s also legal to drive through firearm-unfriendly states with guns in your car, as long as you comply with all provisions of the Firearm Owners’ Protection Act (FOPA). For more information, check out our guide to traveling with guns.

Other Considerations

Safety

Most modern rifles have external safety mechanisms that must be toggled off before the rifle will fire. Be sure to familiarize yourself with the safety mechanism of any rifle before you buy it, as there are many different kinds. Always follow the four rules of gun safety, and if you have kids, make an airtight plan for keeping your guns out of their hands (our gun safety guide for parents is a good start).

Reliability

In the context of firearms, a gun is reliable if it consistently fires when it’s supposed to (and never fires when it’s not supposed to). Most modern rifles are highly reliable, but be sure to emphasize this point in your research.

Capacity

Magazine-fed rifles typically hold between five and thirty rounds. In general, a bigger magazine is better, but some states have implemented legal restrictions on magazine capacity, so make sure you know the law. There are also some situations wherein you may want or need a smaller magazine — more about that in the next section.

Size, Length and Weight

A rifle’s overall size, weight and caliber are three of the biggest variables that determine how easy or hard it is to fire it. In particular, smaller shooters will find it more difficult and uncomfortable to fire large, high-caliber rifles.

Pay special attention to a rifle’s length and weight if you plan to install any firearm attachments, such as scopes, bipods or extended magazines. It’s easy to get carried away with attachments, too many of which can make a rifle too bulky and awkward to use effectively.

Price

Guns are expensive, and high-quality guns are really expensive. Even so, we don’t recommend looking for the cheapest rifle you can find. Cheap rifles are more likely to be poorly designed or manufactured, either of which can lead to safety or reliability problems. There’s nothing wrong with shopping around for a good deal, but in our experience, it’s best to spend a little more on a well-made gun that you can count on for a lifetime.

Accessories

New shooters should buy only those accessories that are truly essential for the rifle’s intended purpose. For example, if you want to hunt deer or compete in long-range shooting sports, a decent or high-end scope is virtually mandatory. A sling and a hard-sided case are good investments for any rifle shooter.

Ease of Use

There is such a thing as “too much gun.” If you’re new to rifle shooting, start simple and master the fundamentals first. To that end, a mechanically simple rifle with few or no accessories is often best. Once you’ve become familiar with a rifle’s parts and operation, you can confidently upgrade to a fancier, more complicated model if you want to.

Cleaning

There’s usually a linear relationship between simplicity and ease of cleaning. Bolt-action plinking and hunting rifles that have only a few moving parts are quick and easy to clean, whereas some semi-automatic models can require much more labor-intensive maintenance. Whichever way you go, never underestimate the importance of keeping your rifle meticulously clean.

Choosing the Right Rifle for Your Needs

Now that we’ve gone over the basic considerations, we’ll offer a few tips on choosing your first rifle based on its primary purpose.

Hunting

You’ll want to choose the caliber of your hunting rifle based on the kind of game you plan to hunt. Your local Game and Fish department likely enforces restrictions regarding minimum calibers for large game (bullets that are too small can’t ensure a clean kill and cause the animal unnecessary suffering). Conversely, you don’t want a large-caliber rifle for small game; there won’t be much usable meat left behind.

In some states, there are also restrictions on magazine capacity for hunting rifles. The intent behind these laws is to encourage hunters to take careful shots so as to maximize the chances of a clean, humane kill — an important skill to practice, even if it’s not mandated by law.

A high-quality scope is arguably the most important part of a hunting rifle. Any experienced long-range shooter will tell you that an expensive scope on a cheap rifle will serve you better than a cheap scope on an expensive rifle.

Sport Shooting

Again, we can’t offer much specific advice on choosing a rifle for sport shooting because it will depend heavily on the sport. There is one useful rule of thumb, though: don’t spend a ton of money on a rifle right out of the gate. Start with a basic, affordable rifle that complies with the rules of the sport and give yourself some time to make sure you want to stick with it for a while. If you do, you can upgrade your gear later on.

Home Defense

Pistols and shotguns are typically better home-defense weapons than rifles, but not always. The biggest problem with using rifles for home defense is overpenetration. Rifle bullets travel much faster than pistol and shotgun projectiles, meaning they tend to go through more things before finally stopping. This can be a real problem indoors; rifle bullets are more likely to penetrate multiple walls, possibly hitting your other family members, or even your neighbors several houses over. You could be held civilly or criminally liable if you accidentally shoot an innocent bystander while defending your home.

If you do choose a rifle for home defense, keep the caliber relatively small. Calibers like 5.56 are popular for home defense because they offer decent stopping power without a wildly increased risk of overpenetration. Be sure to also choose ammunition specifically designed to minimize penetration, such as hollow-point rounds or frangibles. Or you could opt for a shotgun to defend your home instead.

Finally, bear in mind that rifles are long, meaning they’re difficult to maneuver in small rooms or hallways. Regular training on using long guns in close quarters can help mitigate this concern.

Once you’ve narrowed your list of potential rifles down to a few candidates, test them out, if possible. Many gun ranges rent out rifles for $10 to $20 per hour so you can try before you buy. If you’ve never fired a rifle before, sign up for a beginner’s class or ask an experienced friend to help you get started. After following all the steps in this guide, you’ll be well-prepared to buy a rifle perfectly suited to your needs. Happy shooting!

If you like sitting around the sea and savoring your free time, drone fishing is something that can be appealing to you. While fishing works as a fantastic pastime, a drone can make it much more fun and ensure that you have a catch every time.Whether you plan on doing it as a career or a hobby, drone fishing offers many benefits. So, how does it work? What do you need to do it? Is fishing with drones indeed the future? Here’s everything you need to know.

What Is Drone Fishing?

As its name suggests, it is angling with the use of a flying robot. Drone fishing offers several ways to simplify the process of fishing. Rather than gamble your time away with a chance at getting good fish, you can utilize unique drone features to optimize how to get the fish you want.There are many ways to do drone fishing, depending on how much work you want to do yourself. For starters, you can use the fishing drone to scout for a fishing area. Rather than using the drone to pull the fish, you use it as an aid to scout for an excellent place to fish and find the best spots you can use. Some drone fishers connect their underwater camera to check out the local fish population. You can use your drone camera to scope the local waters if you’re hunting for specific fish like tuna, salmon, or others.Another way to do drone fishing is to use it as a bait release drone. As the drone flies around, it casts off the bait, giving you ample opportunity to catch fish. You can use various types of bait to get more fish, from throwing chum to get more fish in one area to using worm bait to reel in fish.The most common use of drones in fishing is to reel in fish, known as “dropping the line.” Rather than use a fishing line, you can have a drone do the catching for you. Depending on how much interaction you want, this can be the least fun part of drone fishing. However, this is also the best way to get a catch every time.Drones are fantastic for career fishing, especially if you like reeling fish from your boat. You can extend your catch range or add a few extra meters to your fishing zone.

How Does Drone Fishing Work?

If you’ve never done any boating or have been away from this hobby for a while, you may be wondering what goes into doing these activities. In this case, it’s best to start with the basics. First, you need to know the laws surrounding the use of your drone. Most countries have regulations regarding where and when you can fly your craft. While some places allow you to use yours freely, others require you to get a license, register your aircraft, and adhere to other requirements. Next, you need to learn how to pilot your drone. You must learn how to control your copter and maintain and fly it properly. You need to learn special piloting techniques if your drone is huge. Third, you must ensure your drone is equipped for fishing and not just for show. There are several types of bait-dropping mechanisms, depending on your drone model. For example, SplashDrone 4 and Fisherman FD1 are purpose-built drones with integrated bait droppers. They also have a remote-controlled line release and many more. Another type of drone includes a tension-triggered release line, which utilizes DJI-compatible bait droppers.Finally, you need to find a good spot to launch your drone. There are plenty of great places for launching a drone, from public waterways to private property. Depending on your needs, you can also use your boat or fly from the shore as a staging platform.

Who started drone fishing?

Drone fishing was not always how it was today. Fishing with drones is still a new activity even after a few years. The activity started with a certain Milton Frear, the owner of JCMatthew in New Zealand. The company deals with different high-quality adventure brands and technology, from camera equipment to personal transportation.

Frear was the distributor of SwellPro in New Zealand, one of the first waterproof drones publicly available for purchase. He used the first-generation waterproof drone, the Mariner, for bait-dropping on the beach in 2014. This personal choice was a clever use of a feature not for its intended purpose.How?The Mariner had a release mechanism initially designed to drop live-saving equipment during an emergency. However, as a lifelong fisherman, Frear understood the novel way of utilizing the feature to drop some bait and get the fish going.Later on, several people started using their drones for fishing too. In particular, Jaiden Maclean of Sea Ulcer wanted to prove if they could fish using drones. Their Youtube video, “Drone Fishing For Tuna,” was a testament to the viability of fishing with a good drone.Their video went viral, garnering as many as 5.3 million views and influencing an audience that loves fishing and flying drones, combining them into one unique hobby. This inspired many would-be anglers to try drone fishing, and it took off from there.Swellpro is the first company who made a waterproof purpose-built fishing drone with an integrated release mechanism. This allows easy fishing and combines scouting, baiting, and angling in a single drone loadout.

Is Drone Fishing Worth It?

Drone fishing is an enjoyable activity for many people, especially due to its many benefits. Whether you’re doing it as a hobby or as a career, using a drone to get some good fish is fun. While some may think it’s less challenging, it also has its own technical hurdles that you need to overcome.So, is drone fishing worth it? Yes! Here are some benefits you can expect when you start drone fishing.

1. Extend The Range Of Your Cast

As the title implies, this allows you to extend the reach of your casting. While a conventional rod has a range of 10 to 15 meters, your aerial capabilities can extend that to as much as 100 meters. This allows you to cover a wide radius, making your chances of getting a snag or a fish much higher.While you can always use a boat to find the fishing spots you want, you can also use a drone and stay on the shore. This gives you a way to go fishing in locations that need a boat to access it, offering a richer space to gather the fish you want.

2. You Have Better Control Over Your Lure

When using conventional rods, you have to rely on hardware to release your hook and lure. When the bait hits the water, your gear must do the rest. The issue with this approach is that you have no say in how the lure behaves once it enters the water. If you use a deep-sea fishing rod, then it can sink to the bottom, making it hard to retrieve them. The mobility of an aerial vehicle gives you more control over your gear. You can quickly move to the best location to make your drop. You can also adjust how fast you move your gizmo, allowing you to bring it in fast or slow, depending on what you’re trying to achieve.

3. Scout For Good Fishing Spots

Using your UAV, you can simultaneously do two things: find a great place to angle and find the right spot for the right species. Scouting with a boat or a kayak can be limiting. If you can’t access an area by boat, then all you can do is hope for the best. On the other hand, when you use your droning to fly over the ocean, you can find a great location for different types of fish and sea life. This lets you modify your technique to make sure you get what you want.

4. Saves Time And Money

While most hobbies cost money, this one can actually save you money, especially if you do it regularly. Unlike traditional boats, you don’t require gas, insurance, or anything else with drone fishing. All you really need is an appropriate form of electricity to power your drone and your other fishing gear.. While you may be thinking it’ll take a lot of time to get the hang of doing this kind of recreational sport, it actually saves you time and effort. As compared to traditional forms of sports, this one doesn’t take as much physical exertion. You also don’t need to lug heavy boats or drive your car to get some fresh fish.

Can You Use Any Drone For Fishing?

If you’re thinking about getting into drone fishing, then you might be wondering if you can use your old drone to do some cool tricks. While it can, the results will be less than stellar. You want them to have the right specs.For starters, you want the drone to be 100% waterproof, from the copter itself to the camera and reeling equipment it uses. Drones can easily die with a strong splash of water with a big wave. You want the vital electronic parts protected so you can keep it operational.You also want a fishing drone that can handle high wind resistance and high payload capacity. The oceans pack strong winds, so your drone should be able to handle somewhere between 29 to 50 kph winds. As for payload, depending on the fish you want to catch, you want to go up to 1 to 2 kgs, which is enough bait to catch you a tuna.You also want a drone with a long flight time to allow for more drops per single charge. This also gives you more time to get your drone come back to safety if you’re fishing from the beach. You also want a good, high-quality camera, preferably an underwater camera for better scouting.

What Are The Best Drones For Fishing?

There are three excellent options on the market if you’re looking for fishing drones. Depending on your needs, every drone offers a different feature. These include:

SplashDrone 4

SwellPro’s SplashDrone 4 is a 5th-gen waterproof drone, offering features that fit every drone fisher’s needs at every skill level. It can float and has IP67 seawater proofing, with the ability to withstand Beaufort Force 7 winds (31 mph/50kph) during its flight.It also offers a swathe of features that allow multifunctional payload and open interface design. This allows you to equip the SplashDrone 4 with optional 1- to 3-axis payloads, from 4K, night vision to thermal cameras. It has a 30-minute flight time without load, with around 12 to 15-mins flight time with payload.

Fisherman FD1

Fisherman FD1, on the other hand, offers almost the same specs, with an IP67 seawater proofing and a max payload capacity of 2kg. It also has a max wind resistance of 44.75 mph/ 72 kph but an equivalent flight time to the SplashDrone 4. Its massive casting range gives you a 1.6 km radius and up to 6 bait drop missions per charge.

Spry+

Spry+ offers a different value than the SpalshDrone 4 and FD1, working as a lighter scout drone with an 800 m control range. Its 4K30fps camera offers easy scouting opportunities for high quality video opportunities. Its waterproofing and corrosion resistance offers a way to scout the waters with no issue at all.

How Much Does A Fishing Drone Cost?

The normal price range for a quality, durable, and functional drone for fishing and outdoor/aerial photography is between $1000 to $2000. This depends on factors like the brand, type, and weight of the product. The cost varies, depending on the features and capabilities you want your droning to have. Some models like the Spry+, for example, are much cheaper compared to other options. The Spry+ costs somewhere around $1000, while the SplashDrone 4 costs around $1800.While this may sound expensive for fishing, you need to remember that a fishing drone can replace several fishing equipment. It can replace a set of fishing rods, scouting gear, boating fees, and underwater cameras.

What Is The Longest Flight Time For A Fishing Drone?

The 20 to 30-minute battery life of most standard consumer-grade fishing drones, which is more than enough for an average fishing trip. The SplashDrone 4 and the Fisherman FD1, for example, can fly for 30 minutes without any load. It can traverse the 1-2km radius of your cast, offering you plenty of opportunity to get the bait in the water. Most recreational drone users spend around 15-20 minutes to do multiple bait drops. A few minutes is more than enough to fly the drone over great distances.

Conclusion

As you can see, there are plenty of reasons why you should consider drone fishing. From its versatility to the sheer amount of things you can do, drone fishing is the future. From helping you find the best place to dropping your lure, you can do so much with one amazing tool. If you’re looking for a great way to spend your time, then investing in a quality fishing drone is one of the best decisions you can make.

In the firearms industry it seems there is always a “trend” that is accepted as the state of the art for a period of time and then something else will come along and replace it. Right now aluminum bedding blocks seem to be the “trend”. I recently posted our views on the ABB so I won’t get into that today but there is a related trend I think needs to be addressed. “Pillar Bedding” or bedding using aluminum pillars.

First a little history: Many years ago when wood stocks ruled the world there was very few things that would improve the accuracy of a rifle as much as “glass bedding” would. Almost no factory guns came bedded and most shot barely acceptable. Glass bedding usually enhanced the accuracy as well as increased the dependability by limiting the effects of humidity and water which played havoc with point of impact (POI). By using an epoxy based product that was reinforced with some fiberglass, thus the term glass bedding, one could form a much better mating surface between the stock and the receiver. By reducing or eliminating any stresses caused by poorly match surfaces it allowed the rifle to shoot more consistently.

In the benchrest community they found that by torquing both guard screws with a torque wrench they could actually tune the way the gun would shoot. They were constantly checking the toque, between matches and even between groups, and most found that the more they shot the rifle, the more the amount of torque would decrease. They reasoned that the stock must be compressing some due to the pressure and stress associated with shooting. As a result they drilled out the holes around the guard screws to the next larger size (usually from 5/16 to 3/8 or 1/2 inch.) When bedding the action they would allow these larger holes to fill up with bedding material. After removing the screws (of course they waxed them first) they would then drill out the screw hole to 5/16th for some clearance, but that would in effect leave a pillar of 1/16 to 3/16” wall thickness of bedding material. The bedding material was dense and rigid so it made a nice pillar that would keep the stock from compressing under the pressure of 40-60lbs of torque, plus the stress of firing the rifle.

Not long after the pillar bedding process was developed, fiberglass stocks came onto the scene. While benchrest shooters were convinced that pillar bedding had a positive effect on the accuracy of their rifles they assumed that the same process would help to improve accuracy of a fiberglass stocked rifle. The process quickly adapted itself to “glass” stocks.

When Chet Brown and Lee Six first introduced fiberglass stocks to the competitive world in the late ’60’s, they used a process that left the stock with a “foam” core. The stocks were made of fiberglass cloth outer shells with the action area and barrel channels actually molded during the initial process. They would use a low density urethane foam to expand the material from the inside and force it out against the walls of the mold to form the gun stock. As a result between the receiver area and the bottom of the stock (where the guard screws are) there was a foam core. The foam was light weight to keep the weight of the stock within reason and when cured was rigid (unlike polystyrene of foam rubber) but had very little compression strength. In short order it was found that pillars were absolutely required in order to keep from compressing the stock when tightening the guard screws.

As a general rule, the same procedure was used to make the pillars as was used with wood stocks. Simply drill the guard screw holes over size and fill them up with bedding material. The draw back to this technique was that occasionally there would be some excessive shrinkage in the bedding material due to the volume of bedding compound that flowed down around the screws. Though this resulted in a less than perfect job from a cosmetic stand point, it had no adverse effect on the performance of the bedding. When guys like my father and Wally Hart and Fred Sinclair started to take on this type of work for their fellow competitors they felt a need to produce a better looking job and the use of precut aluminum pillars was introduced. More on the technical information on aluminum pillars in Part two.

When Gale McMillan introduced his fiberglass stocks in 1973 they were made in pretty much the same manner as the brown stocks. Urethane foam was a major component and this pillar bedding was a main ingredient in all benchrest stocks he made. Gale only made benchrest stocks for the first two years he was in business. Due to the weight limitations in benchrest, light stocks were a must and the materials used were not nearly as strong as they could have been in a stock weighing much more. Pillar bedding was one way to make up for their lack of strength in the receiver area.

Stay tuned for part two on November 2nd!

My introduction to the diminutive .17 caliber came via a mid-winter coyote caper in southwestern Alberta. I hunted mule deer there the previous year with a good buddy, Andre van Hilten, owner of Willow Creek Outfitters. The predator hunter in me couldn’t help but notice the abundance of coyotes as we picked apart the landscape with our optics in search of antlers. So it was no surprise the next January I was following Andre down a sharp ridgeline where we set up overlooking a spiderweb of brushy draws that converged at a frozen stock pond.

It was that magical crepuscular time of the morning all coyote hunters cherish. The breeze was cool and wispy as the sun peeked over the horizon. Andre laid into the rabbit distress call with the guttural growl of a chain-smoking blues singer, causing the hairs on the back of my neck to stand and applaud. I watched the hills come to life as coyotes began crawling out of the woodwork. Nine in all! Most were milling around several hundred yards out, finishing up the night shift and paying us very little attention. Then I spotted two coming hard, one down a fence line, the other circling the far end of the stock pond. I’d like to say that we cleaned house, but circumstances conspired to produce a big fat zero. Don’t ask, and I won’t tell. No worries, though. There was no shortage of coyotes and we’d get a chance at redemption in this predator-rich environment.

That reckoning came in the form of several rugged-out coyotes over the next few days of hunting, firmly planted by the formidable .17 Remington Fireball and its petite 20-grain AccuTip-V projectile. This hunt occurred a few years back when Remington first introduced the cartridge—a necked-down version of its .221 Fireball—and paired it with the also petite Model Seven rifle. I was one of a handful of early test subjects asked to measure its mettle. While I was somewhat skeptical of using such a small bullet on such large northern coyotes, that concern proved to be unfounded. A look at my notes from that hunt demonstrates the efficiency of this formidable little cartridge.

On that Alberta hunt we had no unrecovered coyotes. The longest shot—193 yards—to a broadside coyote dropped it in its tracks with no exit wound. A shot at 170 yards netted a similar result: instant death with no exit wound. A shot to the head at 171 yards dropped another coyote with an exit wound that caused only minimal damage. Only one coyote showed considerable fur damage: a frontal shot at 94 yards that encountered bone and exited out the shoulder.

Another group of hunters in Wyoming experienced similar results with kills ranging from 60 to 250 yards with no unrecovered coyotes. Only one hit coyote went a considerable distance and required a finishing shot. The dog shot at 250 yards was hit to the rear of the lungs, and the tough canine traveled 200 yards before succumbing.

Currently, there are three major .17-caliber centerfire cartridge offerings: .17 Remington, .17 Remington Fireball, and .17 Hornet. Each comes factory loaded with a decent selection of special-purpose varmint and predator bullets. I’d be remiss in not mentioning a lengthy list of wildcats, such as the .17 Ackley Bee, .17 Ackley Hornet, .17 MACH IV, .17 Javelina, and others.

So let’s set the stage by first looking at the three factory offerings in .17 caliber:

17 Remington

The first modern-day factory-loaded .17 varmint cartridge was the .17 Remington, introduced in 1971. It’s the hottest of the bunch (excluding the wildcats), and its angry little 20-grain Remington Premier AccuTip-V bullet leaves the barrel at 4,250 fps. This cartridge is based on the .223 Remington case (with some dimensional changes) necked-down to accept 0.172-inch-diameter bullets. Like its parent case, the rim diameter is 0.378 inch, and the shoulder angle remains 23 degrees.

.17 Remington Fireball

Remington launched the .17 Fireball, a necked-down version of its .221 Fireball, in 2007. It pushes the 20-grain Remington Premier AccuTip-V bullet out the barrel at 4,000 fps, almost matching the .17 Remington. But it uses significantly less powder than the .17 Remington and therefore produces less heat and fouling, which can be an issue with the high volume varmint hunters shoot. The .17 Remington Fireball was Remington’s factory-produced answer to the popular .17 Mach IV wildcat, which it resembles.

.17 Hornet

The .17 Hornet was originally offered as a wildcat cartridge by P.O. Ackley during the early 1950s, as a necked-down version of the .22 Hornet. Shooting a 20-grain V-max bullet, it produces a muzzle velocity of 3,650 fps and generates 592 ft.-lbs. of energy. Its trajectory is similar to that of a .223 Remington shooting a 55-grain bullet but with the felt recoil of a .22 WMR. As with the Fireball, there is less fouling, barrel wear, powder, and pressure when compared to the .17 Remington.

The Pros

It doesn’t take more than a glance to recognize what these cartridges have in common and what makes them effective for terminating predators, even those as large as northern coyote.Velocity, which, of course, is one of two ways to produce foot-pounds of energy. The other way being bullet mass. With their itty-bitty, frangible bullets, speed is required to produce the energy and terminal performance needed for effective kills—especially when dealing with coyote-sized critters. But the tiny .17 pill does come with some limitations.

First, the good news. There are many good reasons why downsizing to these diminutive cartridges for fur hunting can make sense, especially when pursuing smallish critters such as foxes, bobcats, and raccoons at moderate ranges: reduced recoil, flat trajectory, minimal fur damage, small maneuverable rifles, etc. Of these reasons, the one that left the biggest impression when I hunted with the .17 Fireball in Alberta was its mild recoil, which meant never losing sight of the target. Even when using high-powered optics, I could actually see the bullet hit fur on the coyotes I killed and that means I could often determine where the animal was hit and make quick follow-up shots when necessary. That’s because the .17 Fireball cartridge uses 50 percent less powder than the popular .22-250 Remington and generates 86 percent less recoil.

Next on the list of attributes is flat trajectory. Using the .17 Remington as an example, its 20-grain AccuTip-V bullet leaves the barrel at a blistering 4,250 fps, giving it a trajectory similar to the consummate varmint-getter, the .22-250 Remington, which has a muzzle velocity of 3,800 fps with a 50-grain version of the same bullet. With a 250-yard zero, the .17 Remington drops 2.5 inches at 300 yards and 13.5 inches at 400 yards. Comparatively, the .22-250 Remington with the same 250-yard zero drops 2.7 at 300 yards and 12.2 inches at 400 yards.

The next two characteristics—accuracy and terminal performance—have a lot to do with the bullets typically loaded for these cartridges, such as the aforementioned Remington AccuTip-V, Hornady V-MAX, Nosler FBHP Varmageddon, and others. In varmint calibers, these bullets, albeit small, combine superb flight characteristics and match-grade accuracy with a design optimized for explosive on-game results. Ballistic-tip bullets are death to thin-skinned critters, such as foxes, bobcats, and coyotes. The AccuTip-V performed as expected on those Alberta coyotes: a small entrance hole, explosive expansion, and very few exits. Most of the coyotes were dead before they hit the ground.

Finally, for outback hunts, lightweight, maneuverable rifles are the flavor of the day—for example, Remington’s Model Seven, Ruger’s 77/17, and Savage’s Walking Varminter. The fact that recoil isn’t an issue with the .17s means shedding weight makes sense when covering lots of ground or rugged terrain in pursuit of predators.

The Cons

OK, now for the not-so-good news. There are times when these undersized cartridges might get a fur hunter in trouble, such as when hunting in windy conditions or when hunting larger predators or a mixed bag of predators. The trade-off is that the lighter bullets produce less energy at the muzzle and shed it much quicker than heavier bullets, making them less effective as the yardage to the target increases. The .22-250 Remington produces nearly twice the foot-pounds of energy at the barrel—1,603 vs. 802—as the .17 Remington and 536 vs. 192 ft.-lbs. at 400 yards. That’s why I consider the .17s to be moderate-range cartridges for fur hunting, effective to 200 yards or so but not so much beyond that.

And as mentioned, wind drift is an issue with these lighter bullets when compared to larger calibers and their heavier bullets. Consider a .22-250 Remington pushing a 55-grain ballistic-tip bullet in a 20-mph crosswind. Hunters can expect 7.3 inches of drift at 200 yards and 17.5 inches at 300 yards. Compare that to the .17 Hornet pushing a 20-grain ballistic-tip bullet: 11.4 inches of drift and 200 yards and 28 inches of drift at 300 yards. For that reason, I often opt for larger calibers and heavier bullets if I know I’m going to be experiencing blustery conditions while hunting.

One last thing. Small-bore rifles generally need to be cleaned more frequently to maintain their accuracy.

I’m not ready to retire my .22-250 Remington rifles from active coyote duty, and I still have reservations about the downrange energy and wind-bucking ability of the 17-caliber cartridges on coyote-sized critter past 200 yards. But for light duty on fox-sized critters and coyotes at moderate ranges, these feisty little cartridges hold a secure position in my battery of predator/varmint rifles.