Aside from airsoft guns being a lot of fun, there are airsoft fields in almost every state. It cannot be easy to know where to begin if you are new to the game. You’ll need your weapon, but what else will you need? The following blog post will provide you with some basic information that will help you make your first airsoft gun purchase!

Consider What You Need

Thinking about what you need is easier said than done because you won’t know what you need from a gun until you’ve played a few games, but there are a few things to think about.

You do not have to follow the preferences of your pals because everyone has a different style and preference. Consider what you are most comfortable with when firing, what makes airsoft fun for you, and how you prefer to play. Having a buddy with the same configuration as you, on the other hand, makes running out of ammo mid-game much simpler. They can lend you a mag instead of a bag of BBs, which you’ll have to reload in the middle of a firefight!

Are You Looking For A Gas-Powered Or Spring-Powered Airsoft Gun?

A spring airsoft gun is a fantastic choice for folks who want to save money or learn airsoft basics before investing in more expensive guns. They can be incredibly powerful and accurate, but the user must manually cock back the tension release with their hands after each shot fired.

Because airsoft guns take longer to reload than gas-powered guns, you’ll need time between rounds if you wish to utilize them in combat settings against other players. Because they don’t have recoil like gas-powered airsoft guns, you’ll have more accuracy and power when shooting from a long distance with these airsoft weapons.

Gas-powered airsoft rifles shoot quicker because an air propellant is compressed behind a BB with air pressure, which is why they are popular among players who want a more realistic feel and don’t mind paying more than spring airsoft weapons.

Consider The Price

Most purchases in life are influenced by price, and airsoft weapons are no exception. Ideally, you don’t want to spend a lot of money on one of the top weapons if you’re not familiar with its benefits (unless you have a lot of additional money to invest and maybe waste).

It should not be too pricey nor too cheap:

But, at the same time, don’t go too low! There are exceptions, but an inexpensive gun may work and sound excellent in the shop. However, once out on the range, it may not be able to strike the side of a barn. Generally, the lower the price, the more likely you will have to upgrade or modify your gun to be usable; this does not make for a good beginner rifle! Airsoft shotguns can be a good first purchase if priced between $100 and $150 or $200 and up. The disadvantage of this weapon is that ammo can be expensive, so keep additional shotgun shells on hand.

Consider the weight of a weapon when choosing one.

Knowing the weight of an airsoft gun before purchasing it may be crucial for certain people. While not as hefty as actual weapons, airsoft firearms have weight and can alter how you play with them. Some airsoft enthusiasts will find that carrying heavier guns is more authentic. They love the sense of realism that comes with airsofting; yet, others may find themselves at a disadvantage if their opponents use lighter airsoft weapons.

Players who use lower-powered air pistols often prefer lighter weights because the recoil on these guns isn’t as powerful as air rifles or high-powered AKs. If you want to play for speed, a lightweight airsoft gun is better, but a heavier airsoft gun is better if you want to play for realism.

Airsoft Sniper Rifle

Looking for the best sniper rifles can come in a variety of levels and price ranges. In terms of pricing, you can never really say that the most expensive is the greatest. There are excellent sniper guns available at reasonable prices. While there is also your level of skill, a superb sniper rifle would work well for both novices and experienced shooters.

Taking a Quick Look at Technical Elements

There are various technical features of airsoft guns that you should know before making your first purchase.

• FPS vs. MPS

FPS and MPS are measures of the speed with which the BB is ejected from the barrel.

FPS stands for Feet Per Second, and MPS is for Meters Per Second. In general, a model with a greater FPS is considered to have more power and will almost certainly leave some significant bruising on a hit target! Many people believe that higher FPS and MPS mean longer range, but the quality of its Hop Up determines a gun’s ability for long-range shooting.

• Hop-Up

Hop-up is where you get your range and accuracy. It refers to the technology that imparts a backspin on the BB, allowing for significantly more range than would otherwise be possible. Every rifle that we consider a decent enough beginner rifle will include an adjustable hop-up.

• Full and Semi-Automatic

by pulling the trigger, you can fire one shot from a semi-automatic gun. When you squeeze the trigger on a full-auto (Fully Automatic) airsoft gun, it fires a sequence of shots until you release the trigger.

• ROF

ROF stands for Rate of Fire and refers to the number of BBs that may be fired in a certain amount of time when firing in fully automatic mode. In principle, the more BBs you fire, the more likely you will strike your target. However, it will necessitate more consistent ammo replenishment! Make sure to keep your bursts short and controlled. As a rule of thumb, one-second top trigger pulls make for a friendlier game! Unless you’re a support gunner, which is a completely different situation!

Conclusion

There are numerous variables to consider before purchasing when it comes to airsoft weapons. What is your budget? Do you want to fire with a spring-powered or gas-powered gun? It is also important to consider the airsoft gun’s weight and frequency of use. Hopefully, this blog post has given you an overview of airsoft guns so that when it comes time to buy one, you will know exactly which type best meets your needs!

I hear it often this time of year, “I need to get my bow tuned up” or “I’m having trouble getting my bow to tune.” Generally speaking, tuning a bow might seem mysterious or at least something that can only be done by your local pro shop. While your local pro shop is a great resource to get your bow tuned, tuning a bow is something that every bowhunter should at least understand and, in many cases, do themselves. So let’s talk about what tuning actually means.

How do you define a well-tuned bow?

For me, my ultimate goal is to deliver a broadhead-tipped arrow to the exact spot I intend it to hit. Specifically, I want it to hit at 20 yards all the way to 80 yards. I want the arrow to enter as straight as possible, cutting efficiently and carrying as much kinetic energy through as it can. I also want the bow to be a little bit forgiving to a slight tweak in my form in a less than perfect situation. I want it to hold well and be accurate. I also want to be able to spend the preseason months practicing with both field and broadhead-tipped arrows. I want them to hit together and I want my practice to build my confidence and confirm that my form and bow and arrow setup are as lethal as I can get them. That is what I consider a well-tuned bow. With that, let’s jump into how to tune a compound bow.

Some suggest that a bow has to “paper tune,” which is a visual indication of what an arrow is doing very quickly after it leaves the bow. Others discard paper tuning altogether and suggest that “bare shaft” tuning is the only way to properly tune. A few other types of tuning methods that are tossed around are “group tuning,” “broadhead tuning,” “walk-back tuning” and, perhaps, even torque tuning although that is addressing a more specific issue. Every method has its fans and its critics. Personally, I like to utilize multiple methods. By doing this, I gain greater confidence in my setup.

Nocking point, rest location and cam timing

Whether you are pulling a brand new bow out of the box or you are starting over and setting your bow up again from scratch, the first thing I like to do is bottom out both the top and bottom limbs. Next, I visually check for cam timing. By cam timing, I mean that both cams are in sync and both roll over at the same time. Well-timed cams allow the draw stops on each cam to contact the cables or limbs at exactly the same time. Many of the newer compound bows have indication marks or holes on the cams that you can look at to see if the cams are timed.

For example, my Mathews VXR has a hole on each cam that you can look at to see where the cable is in relation to the cam. Each cable centered visually through those holes tells me that the bow is likely in time. Cam timing is important. If one cam is reaching full rotation before the other, it will result in an arrow that, if receiving more rotation from one cam, results in an arrow that will show either high or low paper tears that you probably won’t be able to work out by moving your rest or nocking point. Long story short: do a quick check visually for cam timing before you even get started.

What if my cams are not in time?

Cam rotation can be manipulated by adding or even removing twists from the cables in order to get the draw stops hitting at the same time. If you twist a cable, you are effectively shortening it, thus increasing the distance the draw stop has to rotate to stop. Untwisting does the opposite — it lengthens the cable and reduces the distance of rotation for the draw stop to hit. I always try to utilize twisting cables or strings rather than untwisting. Also, be aware that the twisting and untwisting can have other impacts on draw length and draw weight.

Also at this point, I like to do a quick measure of the axle to axle length and the brace height to see if those measurements meet the manufacturer’s recommendations. Axle to axle is measured from the center of the top axle to the center of the bottom axle on the shelf side of the bow. Brace height is measured from the deepest part of the grip to the bow string. If your bow appears to have good cam timing and the brace height and axle to axle are close to factory spec, then my next step is to set a nocking point.

To set a nocking point, my method is to measure the distance between the two axles and set my nocking point so the arrow is centered between that. I then tie in my nocking point. After that, I install my rest and lock it down with my arrow at a 90 degree angle to the string.

Another method is to attach your rest is to put your bow in a bow vise. Use a level and the vise to put your bow in a position that your string is perfectly vertical (i.e. level). Next, use an arrow on your string and adjust your rest height so that the arrow is running through the center of the berger hole (rest attachment hole) and it is 90 degrees running from your leveled string. At that point, tie in your nocking point(s) and secure your rest vertically.

After I have the nocking point tied in, my rest attached and the arrow squared, I set the horizontal location of my rest. I start with my rest at 13/16” from the edge of the riser. I may end up moving that if need be, but that’s a good starting point. For my Mathews bows, that is the magic spot for my rest.

With the nocking point and rest set, I tie in my D-loop. After that, I draw the bow several times to get a feel for the cam timing. A draw board is the best way to check timing, but if you do not have one you can have someone watch your cams as you draw. You can also get a good feel for it yourself by slowing down and drawing your bow repeatedly. Never draw a bow without having an arrow nocked.

Arrow selection & other accessories

Before moving to the next step of actually shooting the bow you have to think about arrow selection and the other accessories you are going to put on your bow.

You will need to shoot an arrow that has the proper spine for your setup. By spine, I mean the stiffness of the arrow. If the arrow is too weakly spined or too stiffly spined for your bow, it will be very tough and likely impossible to tune. Most arrow manufacturers have charts they provide where you can find your draw length and draw weight. The chart will indicate the proper spine for you to shoot.

Another method, which is what I would recommend, is to utilize the “shaft selector” software that is available online through a company called Archers Advantage. The cost is about $10 and, with it, you can build setups and generate an arrow that is perfectly tailored to you.

For example, I can input the model of bow, my draw length and draw weight. Then, I can play with arrow spines, lengths, components and I can create the perfect arrow for my bow. It’s a great product and I highly recommend it.

After you have picked an arrow, I’d suggest that you work on getting your stabilizer(s) and sight attached. Anything on your bow, including your accessories — even your peep sight — is going to impact the tune. I’ve seen guys shoot a bare bow that tuned perfectly and then added a stabilizer setup and they suddenly have a bad paper tear or poor bare shaft results.

Finally, you have your bow set up and are ready to fire a few arrows and start to tune.

Paper Tuning

I like to start out by paper tuning. For one, it’s relatively easy to do in a small space and I can do it at home in my equipment room. To paper tune your bow, you’ll need a bow, arrows, a frame that can hold a piece of paper that you can shoot through and a target placed behind it. The goal of paper tuning is to stand approximately 6’ to 8’ from the paper and shoot an arrow through the paper into the target. The resulting “tear” through the paper is a perfectly centered hole. A perfect tear would indicate the arrow is leaving the bow with true flight. In order to get a perfect paper tear, your arrow rest, nocking point, cam timing, grip and arrow spine all have to be correct.

Fixing paper tears

Left tear (nock left – point right)

RestCam(s)ArrowCable guardMove rest rightMove cam(s) left or short left yokeUse stiffer arrow or decrease point weightMove cable guard toward arrow

Right tear (nock right – point left)

RestCam(s)ArrowCable guardMove rest leftMove cam(s) right or shorten right yokeUse weaker arrow or increase point weightMove cable guard away from arrow

High tear (nock high – point low)

RestNock pointCam(s)Cable guardMove rest upMove nock point downTwist cable for top camTake a 1/4″ turn out of top limb bolt

Low tear (nock low – point high)

RestCam(s)ArrowCable guardMove rest downMove nock point upTwist cable for bottom camTake a 1/4″ turn out of bottom limb bolt

A combo of tears can be fixed by combining methods. For example, a high left tear might be fixed by moving the rest right and up. Generally, I would recommend you start with the easiest adjustment and retest before moving to steps like stiffer or weaker arrows, cam shimming, etc. More information on how to tune a Mathews bow with top hats can be found here.

Bare shaft tuning

After paper tuning, bare shaft tuning is my second step in the process. Bare shaft tuning is quite simple, but you have to have relatively good, repeatable shooting form. Start with two or three bare shafts (no fletchings) and two or three regular fletched arrows and shoot them, starting at about 15 to 20 yards. The goal is to have the bare shaft and the fletched arrows hit the exact same point. The bare shaft should enter the target at the same vertical and horizontal plane/angle as the fletched arrows. A well-tuned bow will group those arrows together and they will enter the target exactly the same way.

But what if they do not hit together?

Similar to the paper tuning method, your options for getting good bare shaft flight are to move the rest, the nocking point, the cam(s) left or right, adjust the left or right yoke, adjust the cam timing or make changes to your arrow setup.

Bare shaft tuning fix (point of impact)

Bare shaft leftBare shaft rightBare shaft highBare shaft lowRestMove rest leftMove rest rightLower restRaise restNock point-Raise knocking pointLower nocking pointCam(s)Move cam rightMove cam left-YokesTwist right yokeTwist left yoke-Cam(s)Move cam rightMove cam left-Cam Timing-Twist cable bottom camTwist cable top camArrowsMaybe too stiffMaybe too weak-Other causeDraw length maybe too shortDraw length maybe too long-

As you begin to tune, make changes in small increments. It also helps to record the changes you make and monitor the results. It may take days to work out the tune, ensure that you are shooting with good form and executing good shots.

Walk back tuning

Walk back is yet another method to help you guarantee that your bow’s centershot is true, meaning your rest is in the proper position left to right. The process is simple: you shoot at a single spot on a target using the same pin at a variety of distances and monitor the results.

First, apply a piece of tape vertically straight up and down (plumb) through the middle of your target. Make sure you have an aiming point that the tape runs through. Then sight in your twenty yard pin to that aiming point. Now, moving back to 30, 40, 50 and 60 yards, aiming and shooting at the same aiming point and using your same 20 yard pin at each distance. If you shoot a single pin slider, do not move your sight. At each distance, use the same 20 yard pin.

A well-tuned rest center shot will yield in a straight vertical line. Every arrow should be vertically in a line in the tape, 20 all the way to 60 yards ( I ). If the line of arrow runs off to the left ( / ), you will need to move your rest to the right. If your arrows run off to the right ( ), you’ll need to move your rest to the left.

Make small changes and reshoot as you go. Remember that after you make an adjustment to your rest you will likely have to move your sight and resight in again at 20 yards before starting the walk back process again. Recording your adjustments and results can help you keep things moving in a positive manner. Once again, this may take a few days to make sure you get good shots and results.

Torque tuning

For those that have even more time to test and tinker, torque tuning might be worth considering. Torque tuning essentially is adjusting your rest into a position (forward or farther back) so that when your grip is less than perfect (like it regularly is in a hunting situation) your arrow will still fly true.

To start, sight your bow in at 20 yards. Then, draw your bow and slightly torque your grip so that the riser has more pressure to one side or the other (use common sense, do not derail your bow) As you do so, take note of what direction your stabilizer is pointing, then put your pin on the target and fire an arrow.

If the arrow impacts the direction that your stabilizer was pointing when torqued, move your rest farther back and repeat. If the arrow impacts the opposite direction of the way your stabilizer was pointing, then move your rest farther forward and repeat. Overall, you are trying to find the sweet spot where, if you have less than perfect grip and are torquing the bow, the arrow will still impact the desired spot. After you find the spot, test your results by torquing the bow both left and right and shooting to confirm your results. You can also step your yardage back to 30 or even 40 yards and repeat to fine-tune your rest location for maximum forgiveness.

Broadhead tuning

Finally, good broadhead flight is the reason we all started tuning in the first place and, if you’ve done the work with other methods like paper tuning and bare shaft tuning, it should be really close already.

A fixed-blade broadhead is going to have more surface area than your field tips and because of this will exaggerate an error in flight. Before I begin shooting broadheads, there are a few steps I like to take to ensure that any issues I might see are not the issues with the arrow/broadhead and are, indeed, issues with tune.

The first step is to install a broadhead and check for alignment by spinning each arrow. Any misalignment will cause a wobble in the arrow and poor flight. To check each arrow, use an arrow spinner like the Pine Ridge Arrow Inspector. Spin each arrow, taking note of the broadhead tip, watching for any wobble in the tip. Another method that I prefer is to put the tip of the broadhead up against a cardboard box and as you spin the arrow you will see the point start to make a circle in the cardboard if there is any misalignment. Perfect alignment will result in a pin hole in the cardboard and perfect alignment.

If the arrow tip does make a circle in the box, rotate the arrow tip until it’s in the top most position then use a sharpie to mark the arrow tip at that position. Rotate that arrow 180 degrees from that mark and then apply pressure to the point of the head on a hard surface. What you are wanting to do is to bend or push the insert in alignment with the broadhead. Recheck alignment by spinning the arrow and broadhead again. After your arrow/broadhead combos are put together, it’s time to shoot them.

For a detailed look at broadhead tuning, you can check out an article and video I did on this here.

Hopefully, your broadheads fly perfectly and impact along with your field tips out to 80 yards, but sometimes that is not the case. One of the most common questions I get about broadhead flight is how do I get my broadheads to fly with my field tips? Also, what is your broadhead flight telling you about your tune? The first thing I would suggest is that you should not automatically just move your sight so your broadheads are impacting where you want. That is a Band-Aid and you won’t be able to practice with field tips and have them impact where you want. Below, I have included a table to help you get your broadheads and field tips hitting together.

Broadhead tuning your bow

IssueRest fixCam fixBroadheads hitting leftMove rest leftMove cam rightBroadheads hitting right Move rest rightMove cam leftBroadheads hitting highMove rest down or move nock point upTwist cable for bottom camBroadheads hitting lowMove rest up or move nock point downTwist cable for top cam

After you make adjustments to your rest to get your field tips and broadheads hitting together, then move your sight to re-sight in your pins. This method will ensure your bow is well-tuned (good paper/bare shaft tune) and your broadheads and field tips hit exactly where you want them to!

Finally, I’ll provide another table below that can help in your tuning efforts and setting your bow to spec.

General tuning cause and effect

Twisting stringUntwisting stringTwisting cableUntwisting cableAxle to axleDecreasesIncreasesDecreasesDecreasesBrace heightIncreasesDecreasesIncreasesDecreasesHolding weightIncreasesDecreasesDecreasesIncreasesDraw lengthDecreasesIncreasesIncreasesDecreases

In conclusion

Hopefully the COVID-19 pandemic will pass quickly and we can all get back to some normalcy and prepare for the fall hunting seasons. While we have some time at home, stay safe, enjoy time with family and put some real effort into having the most well-tuned bow you have ever entered a season with. All the best!

If you have ever spent time in a big sporting goods store, like Bass Pro Shops, then you surely have noticed all the incredible fish mounted on the walls. Most anglers gaze up with envy at everything from huge marlin to jumbo bass, but have you ever wondered if those shiny mounts are real fish?

So, are fish mounts made from real fish? Taxidermy mounts made from real fish usually only contain the skin, teeth, head and fins. The body portion consists of a light weight foam mold on which the skin and other fish parts are mounted. Most fish mounts are actually painted fiberglass replicas.

There are some important things to know when the opportunity to catch a trophy fish comes knocking. Read on to learn more about taxidermy options, costs, fish preparations, and other important information to keep your fish looking as beautiful as the day you caught it.

How is a fish mounted

One of these days, you could very well catch the fish of a lifetime. Pictures are great, but sometimes they just don’t do the size of a fish justice. If you want to really show off your fishing prowess to your buddies, consider making your trophy a permanent mount on the wall.

Skin mounts

Using actual fish parts for mounting is slowly becoming a thing of the past. As anglers become more aware of the importance of fishery conservation, catch and release practices make real fish mounts impractical. Even so, taxidermists still get clients insisting on live mounts.

Live fish are mounted using the skin, fins, parts of the head and sometimes the teeth. Fish are far more delicate than most animals when it comes to mounting. Proper preparation is essential to ensure a high quality result. The taxidermist will skin the fish and use a preservative on the fish parts to be saved. Once the skin and other portions of the fish are dry, they are added to a foam mold that makes up the main body of the fish.

The next steps are where the taxidermist’s artistic ability really shines. Life like poses and painting a fish to mimic true-to-life colors is no small feat. Usually only one side of the fish is painted for wall mounts. Pedestal mounts will have both sides painted. Once painted, a clear coat layer is applied to protect it for years to come.

Replica mounts

If releasing the fish back to the water is your aim, then consider a fiberglass replica instead. It may not be the real thing, but it just might look better anyway. Here are a few things to consider when deciding between taking a fish to the taxidermist or releasing it to fight another day.

The modern day fiber glass reproductions are truly life-like. They are molded from real fish so all the details are present. If the paint job is done by a skilled taxidermist, you will never be able to tell the difference between a skin mount and a replica.

Many taxidermists have access to a large number of custom sizes from fish mold suppliers. This makes matching the exact size of your fish easier than ever.

It may not be the real fish you caught but it sure is a great way to commemorate the catch. It is also a much faster time to completion. A picture of the fish at the time you caught it is key to getting an accurate recreation of the fish. A good taxidermist will work with you and your picture to recreate the memory of your fish.

Regardless of the type of mount you get, it is important to do your homework when selecting a taxidermy shop. All taxidermy requires skill and artistic abilities. Don’t trust your dollar or trophy to someone without hearing feedback from actual customers.

5 easy steps to prepare a fish for taxidermy

Okay, you decided to keep the fish and take it to a taxidermist. Now what? To make sure your mount is as pretty as can be, follow these five simple steps.

Step 1

Take a good picture as soon as possible. Fish begin losing their best colors within two minutes. Snap a picture as soon as you pull it from the water to give the taxidermist the best chance at painting the exact colors. Limit how much you handle the fish to prevent damage to the scales and do not gut the fish.

Step 2

You never know when something could go wrong. If for some reason the fish is lost or damaged before getting it to a taxidermist, taking a few measurements if possible is a good idea. First, measure the length from nose to tail. Then, take a girth measurement around the fattest portion of the body. If you have a scale, weigh it too. Now you can get an accurate replica made if need be.

Step 3

Freeze your fish as soon as possible. Choose which side is best and remember to always keep that side up. This will be the visible side of the mount. Place it good side up on a flat surface in the freezer and leave it until it is solid throughout. This takes about three days. Do not put the fish in a bag or wrap it in newspaper.

Step 4

Even though the fish is now frozen, it can still be damaged by rough handling. Some taxidermists recommend misting the fish with water to form an ice coat. Several applications of water will provide a protective jacket when transporting it to the taxidermy shop.

Step 5

Now you are ready to take it in to a taxidermist. Once the fish is frozen, it is okay to put it in a bag for easy carrying. Take it in a cooler to prevent it from thawing out. After you select a local taxidermist, I recommend contacting them to see if they have any additional instructions.

How much does it cost to mount a fish

Getting any animal or fish mounted is not going to be cheap. You are paying for the skill and artistic talent of the taxidermist. The old saying, “you get what you pay for” rings true. Even so, if it is truly a trophy of a lifetime, it will be worth every penny.

After a little research, I found that the going rate for both replica and live fish mounts is about $16 per inch of fish for one side. To give you some perspective, the average sailfish is over 9 feet long and will cost roughly $1500. A trophy bass, on the other hand, may be only 24 inches long and cost around $400. Some taxidermists offer discounted prices for longer fish species.

Obviously, if you want both sides of the fish mounted and painted for pedestal mounts, you must double the price. Also, these costs do not include plaques or other mount décor.

How do you clean a wall mounted fish

Over time dust, sunlight and smoke can impact the life of a mount. Skin mounts generally do not last as long as replica mounts because of the fragile nature of the thin skin. Either way, regular maintenance can keep your mount in tip top shape for years to come.

Dust regularly with a slightly damp, lint free cloth. Air dusters work well for loose dust and will reduce the risk of damage. Be careful around the delicate fins. Sometimes it is easier to remove the fish from the wall and lay it on a flat surface.

To make the mount last even longer, avoid hanging it where it receives direct sunlight. The damaging UV rays will fade the colors overtime, especially on skin mounts.

Fire place smoke or cigarette smoke will slowly discolor fish mounts as well. Smoke build up cannot be removed by wiping or cleaning the mount. Take it into a professional taxidermist to be stripped and refinished.

Final thoughts

Fish mount are a great way to share your adventure of a lifetime with friends and family. A fish on the wall means proof of a catch and bragging rights to go with it. Getting a skin mount from a real fish or a replica mount is a personal choice. The replica mounts available now days offer the ability to exactly match your fish’s size and look. They also last longer and in most cases look better too.

Winchester Repeating Arms added the Super X semi-automatic shotgun to its catalog back in 1974—a design that is now in its fourth generation—but it wasn’t until 2022 that the company produced a version that ejected to the left for use by the approximately 10 percent of the shooting public that is left-handed. Being offered in 12 gauge in several finishes, barrel lengths and chamber lengths, our test gun for the following evaluation was an example of the SX4 Left Hand Waterfowl Hunter with full-coverage Mossy Oak Shadow Grass Habitat camouflage, a shortened 26″ barrel and a chamber sized to accommodate up to 3.5″ magnum shells.

Like the rest of the line, the left-hand SX4s are semi-automatic, gas-piston-operated shotguns. Employing the company’s Active Valve gas system, the SX4 self-adjusts to the length of ammunition being used by venting out excess gas through four vents located at the end of the fore-end. This enables the gun to cycle reliably without imparting more felt recoil to the shooter’s shoulder than is necessary to cycle the action. As excess gas is expelled, so too is the resulting carbon fouling that would otherwise accumulate inside the action; this makes for a cleaner-running gun that also operates at slightly cooler temperatures.

As this gun is destined for field use, Winchester utilizes aluminum alloy for the receiver, resulting in a lightweight design that is also naturally corrosion-resistant, and the barrel’s chamber and bore are also chrome-lined for increased wear and corrosion resistance. A ventilated rib runs atop the barrel, which ends in a TruGlo red fiber-optic rod that looks like a lantern when presented to the early morning sky.

While the sight was made to stand out, the rest of our test sample—from the composite fore-end and buttstock to the receiver—was designed to disappear, as its entire exterior surface is finished in camouflage. Our shotgun was clad in Shadow Grass Habitat, but the Left Hand Waterfowl Hunter is also available in Mossy Oak’s Bottomland and Realtree’s Max-7 patterns, to help satisfy a variety of hunting pursuits.

The SX4 Left Hand’s controls are oversize everywhere it counts. The bolt handle protrudes a little farther than average, and the bolt release is large enough to manipulate through gloves. The same holds true for the crossbolt safety, which is reversible should you be left-handed but have right-handed muscle memory from shooting “backward” guns your entire life. The loading port is also enlarged, and we found that we were able to fill it to its four-round capacity without having to de-glove. On average, the gun’s single-stage trigger broke cleanly at 6 lbs., 2 ozs.

For our range day, we brought out a variety of shooters, both left- and right-handed, that varied in height and body composition. Although the shotgun comes with a set of interchangeable length-of-pull spacers, it felt good enough straight from the box that no one felt the need to alter the stock configuration. We decided to function test a variety of shells from Federal, including a 2 3/4″ Top Gun target load, a 1 3/4″ Shorty target load and a 3″ Black Cloud waterfowl load.

Of the three included flush-fitting Invector-Plus-style choke tubes (full, modified and improved cylinder), we chose the modified to pattern test the Black Cloud FS Steel ammunition. After averaging 10 patterns, we recorded an impact area that was only about 1″ high and 3″ left from our point of aim on the 40-yard targets. As this is a steel load, we noticed that the pattern had become rather large at that distance, putting even more pellets into the outer ring than it had the inner circle.

Many of the shooters commented on how soft-shooting the SX4 was, even with magnum loads, no doubt a combined result of the self-regulating gas system and the shotgun’s Inflex 1 recoil pad. Additionally, we all appreciated the moderately aggressive texturing on both the fore-end and the grip, as it was comfortable to the touch yet still served its purpose of anchoring the shotgun well.

Our left-handed evaluators enjoyed not having the moving parts in their face during operation and being able to easily single-load with their strong hand. Conversely, the righties remarked how helpful it was to have the action on the “other” side, as it made it easier for them to inspect and load with their weak hand if they so desired. All shooters found the shotgun easy to swing and agreed that their eye found the fiber-optic sight with little hesitation. The left-hand SX4 fired everything we fed it, including the Shorty shells—which is somewhat surprising, as it was not really designed to do so. However, although they pushed the action back far enough to be ejected, they could not lock it open.

Ultimately, the Winchester SX4 Left Hand Waterfowl Hunter is just a mirror copy of the right-hand SX4—which will be very welcome news for southpaw shotgunners—as we had previously been quite impressed by the design during prior evaluations, and we found the lefty version to be just as capable. While a small handful of other left-hand semi-automatics can be found on the shotgunning landscape, few offer the features, reliability and soft-shooting characteristics of the SX4 platform.

We field tested over 40 of the best Appendix Holsters and found the 8 best options available.

I find many people say that carrying a concealed carry gun in an appendix AIWB holster is very uncomfortable.

Since it is arguably the best way to conceal a handgun for self-defense, is there really a comfortable option?

Our team has over 25 years of experience with concealed carry and appendix holsters. We use these holsters every day. We have military experience, safety officer experience, and shoot competitively in concealed carry matches as well.

While finding a comfortable holster is possible, it is only part of what you need to know.

Keep reading to find our tips and tricks to finally be able to carry an appendix holster comfortably.

Comparison of our Favorite Appendix Holsters

Best Appendix Holsters

CYA Supply Ridge Holster – Best Appendix Holster

• Material: Kydex
• Handgun Models Available: Over 100
• Return Policy: 30 Days
• Warranty Policy: Lifetime
• MSRP: $59.74

The CYA Supply Ridge AIWB Holster is our top pick as one of the best appendix holsters.

This full kydex holster is one of the slimmest low-profile appendix holsters we could find.

Why is that important?

An appendix holster that is not bulky is more likely to be comfortable and easy to conceal.

I have worn this holster for hours at a time and was able to sit, bend over, and load some heavy rocks into the back of my truck with it on.

I like how the edges of the holster are rounded. I have found that holsters that have pointed edges can be painful when I move in a certain position. They are literally a pain!

This holster comes with a spring steel clip from Discrete Carry Concepts. This clip has two fingers with tangs on the inside that catches on the bottom of my belt. This clip is one of the most durable and secure clips that we have found.

I was able to adjust the position of the clip to get the cant angle that was best for me. I simply loosened the screws, moved the clip, and tightened it back down.

The holster comes with a standard concealment wing with two different claw options. Hardware is included to remove it altogether, use a low profile claw, or a taller claw. I really like this option since I can customize it to my gun and my carry position.

But I really like the fact that CYA has included all of these options at no additional cost. Most other companies charge extra.

There are multiple colors available, and this holster is optics ready. However, they do not support pistol mounted lights. I found that they support all of the popular concealed carry guns on the market, so you are likely to find one for yours.

The combination of the features, comfort, and price brought us to agree that this is the best appendix holster for most people.

Recommended for:

The CYA Supply Ridge AIWB Holster is for anyone looking for the best appendix holster. This value here is hard to beat.

Video Review of the CYA Supply Ridge Holster

Harry’s Holsters Infiltrator – Best Kydex Appendix Holster

• Type: IWB
• Material: Kydex
• Handgun Models Available: Over 50
• Return Policy: 30 Days
• Warranty Policy: Lifetime
• MSRP: $97.75

Harry’s Holsters Infiltrator Holster is a full Kydex holster that we found works great as an appendix holster as well as any other IWB carry position.

The infiltrator is the latest holster from Harry’s Holsters. The shape and design of this holster looks different than most of the other Kydex IWB holsters that I have seen. You can tell that they have put in a lot of thought and incorporated improvements into this holster from previous models.

I like how the outside of the holster is rounded. My Infiltrator holster has not only rounded the edges on the Kydex, but it is formed in key areas to eliminate any possible edges that could cause pain. This is especially true around the bottom of the holster, an area I found to be the key to comfort.

Just like the CYA ridge holster, this one also comes with a spring steel Discrete Carry Concepts clip. It is one of the best I have found on an appendix holster.

What really makes this holster stand out is the adjustability. The clip comes separate from the holster, and included is a card with a QR code with a link to a setup video.

The hardware on this holster is unique. Instead of the round nuts you typically find on most holsters, this one comes with square nuts that ride in the adjustment channel. This allows the clip to move up and down with nearly one inch of ride height adjustment and 30 degrees of cant angle adjustment.

This much adjustability means this holster will work for almost everyone. I found with some adjustment it worked great in the appendix position as well as behind the hip.

Another feature that I really like on this holster is the unique concealment wing. Instead of being a separate wing with a claw, Harry’s Holsters came up with a unique design.

The wing is molded into the Kydex and is a gradual raised area around the trigger. I found that with holsters that have a claw, they are hard to put on and the claw gets caught on my pants or belt. With this holster, it slides right into place.

This is great since I often don’t drive with this holster on. This design allows me to quickly put it on when I get out of my truck.

All of these design features are great, but they do come at a price. This holster is more expensive than most other Kydex holsters. If your budget allows, this is the one to get.

Recommended for:

Harry’s Holsters Infiltrator Holster is for anyone looking for an appendix holster that will work well in any IWB carry position. The adjustability and rounded design makes this holster very comfortable.

Video of the Harry’s Holsters Infiltrator

Hidden Hybrid Holsters Single Clip – Most Comfortable Appendix Holster

• Material: Hybrid – Leather and Kydex
• Handgun Models Available: Over 100
• Return Policy: 30 Day
• Warranty Policy: Lifetime
• MSRP: $89.95

The Hidden Hybrid Holsters Single Clip Holster is one of the most comfortable appendix holsters we have used.

This holster is a hybrid design, so it has a leather backing with a kydex shell. I found that the leather has a soft suede backing that is super comfortable. I noticed that the leather was Amish made on their website but did not expect it to feel this soft.

When I ordered this holster I noticed that they have an option for an “RMR guard” and I selected the red dot that I have on my gun. I really wasn’t sure what this was since I had not seen it offered on any other holster before.

I was surprised when I received the holster to find that molded into the Kydex was a full guard for my red dot. Instead of being out and exposed like on other holsters, it is fully covered and protected.

I also selected the optional claw when I ordered it. This pushes the grip of my handgun closer to my body, and it is a feature I usually look for on an appendix holster.

Part of what makes this holster comfortable is it is wider than most other kydex or leather holsters. This helps to spread out any pressure over a wider area. Think of stepping on a small or large Lego and you get my drift.

But it does take up more room as a result. Blake has a small waist and he has been carrying this holster for a while. He says the only downside is the width makes it harder for him to carry a mag carrier IWB as well.

Hidden Hybrid offers many different gun models with this holster, but they only have pistol light options for a few gun models. They also do not have an integrated mag carrier option, but they do have an IWB option that is separate.

Recommended for:

The Hidden Hybrid Holsters Single Clip Holster is for anyone looking for a comfortable appendix holster. This is one of the most comfortable holsters we have found.

Video About Hidden Hybrid Holsters

Alien Gear Photon Holster – Best Value Appendix Holster

• Material: Kydex
• Handgun Models Available: Over 50
• Return Policy: 30 Day
• Warranty Policy: Lifetime
• MSRP: $44.88

The Alien Gear Photon holster is more than just a great AIWB holster, it is an entire holster system.

This holster comes with hardware to set it up as either an IWB holster or an OWB holster. I got their Photon mag carrier as well, and I set it up as an AIWB holster with a mag pouch side car.

All of this for a price that is one of the lowest on our list.

When I first setup my holster for my Glock 19, I found the adjustability allowed me to set it exactly where I wanted it. The sidecar attachment bracket has multiple options, as well as the clip on both the holster and the mag carrier. It took a few tries to get it exactly right, but I would rather have too many options than an uncomfortable holster.

This holster can be setup for either right-hand or left-hand draw. While not important for some, it is for us since some on our team are left-handed. If anyone in your family has a different dominant hand than you this holster will keep you from having to buy a unique holster just for them.

I really like the fact that this holster comes with plenty of spare hardware. Since I have switched my holster between IWB and OWB a few times, I dropped a few screws and was glad to have extras.

The holster does have an optional concealment claw that you can attach behind the holster clip. I don’t like how close it is to the clip, as it makes it a little hard to put the holster on.

I found that depending on the pants and belt I was using, the space between the clip and the claw was not enough. A thick belt and a thick waistband just won’t work.

My only dislike for this holster in the AIWB configuration was it does not have a full sweat guard. I found that I always needed to wear an undershirt with it otherwise the slide of my Glock was right against my skin, serrations, and all.

Overall, it is hard to beat the price and flexibility of this holster. When it is setup right it is comfortable and not a pain. There are a ton of gun models available, light bearing options as well.

Recommended for:

The Alien Gear Photon holster system is for anyone looking for a flexible AIWB holster with a magazine side car and light bearing options.

Video of the Alien Gear Photon Holster

Falco AIWB Leather Holster – Best Leather Appendix Holster

• Material: Leather
• Handgun Models Available: Over 100
• Return Policy: 30 Days
• Warranty Policy: Lifetime
• MSRP: $80

The Falco AIWB Leather Holster is one of the best leather AIWB holsters we have tried.

This holster is made from very high-quality Italian leather. This leather is a little different than the typical leather I am used to. It has some stiffness to it, which has some advantages.

Unlike most other leather holsters, this holster is custom molded to my gun. This makes it fit very well, almost as good as a Kydex holster.

I like how the top of the holster is reinforced with a second piece of leather on the front and around the sweat guard. This stiffens the opening of the holster and keeps it open after I draw my gun. Collapsing after drawing my gun is one of the biggest issues I have found with leather appendix holsters. But Falco has figured it out on this one.

The metal clip is attached to the front of the holster with a reinforced piece of leather. I can’t see it going anywhere. It feels very secure.

However, the clip is not adjustable since it is permanent. My holster feels like it is at a good ride height and cant angle, but some adjustment would be nice.

Since the leather is fairly stiff, I found that the edges can cause some skin irritation when I first started wearing it. Over time, this seems to have gotten better, so I feel like the edges have become softer. But it has taken a few weeks, so it does require some patience.

Overall the quality of this holster is amazing, and I expect it to last a long time. The leather gives it that classic look and feel of leather, with a retention that competes with Kydex.

Recommended for:

The Falco AIWB Leather Holster is for anyone looking for a classic leather appendix holster. The molded leather is hard to find anywhere else.

Video of the Falco Leather AIWB Holster with the Light Option

1791 Gunleather Smooth Concealment Holster – Best Universal Appendix Holster

• Material: Leather
• Handgun Models Available: Universal
• Return Policy: 30 Days
• Warranty Policy: Lifetime
• MSRP: $45.99

The 1791 Gunleather Smooth Concealment Holster is the best leather universal fit AIWB holster we have tried.

This holster comes in seven different sizes that will fit almost any handgun. Normally I do not recommend universal fit holsters since they often don’t fully guard they trigger, don’t have good retention, or have material around the sweat guard that interfered with my draw.

However, we tried this holster with five different concealed carry guns and for the most part did not have any of these issues. I felt that the Sig P365 XL was a little loose in the holster, and the sweat guard came up a little too high. However, fit was fine with the Glock 19, 43, and the S&W Shield.

This holster is made from top quality leather. It is durable, soft, and smells great as well. This makes it super comfortable, with none of the stiff edges that kydex holsters have.

I found that for some handguns this holster does need a break-in period. The process was easy with the included instructions. I just needed a plastic bag and it took a few days.

Over time I realized the holster forming to my handgun my body. The Leather just feels great. This holster is very low-profile and compact, so it is easy to wear.

The metal clip is easy to use, and it is attached to the holster with a reinforcing piece of leather. This makes it super strong, and I am not worried about it pulling away from the holster.

However, the clip is not adjustable since it is permanently attached to the holster. I didn’t find this to be an issue with the guns I tried, but it could be depending on the gun you are using and your body shape.

Since this holster is a soft leather AIWB holster, I found that it collapsed after I drew my handgun. I talk about this in the guide below. This is not a show stopper but it is an issue during training.

Recommended for:

The 1791 Gunleather Smooth Concealment AIWB Holster is for anyone looking for a comfortable leather appendix holster. The quality of the leather is amazing.

Video of the 1791 Smooth Concealment Holster

Stealth Gear Ventcore 1.0 AIWB Plus – Best Hybrid AIWB Holster

• Material: Hybrid
• Handgun Models Available: Over 75
• Return Policy: 30 Days
• Warranty Policy: Lifetime
• MSRP: $129

The Stealth Gear Ventcore 1.0 AIWB Plus appendix holster is one of the best hybrid holsters we have found.

This holster has a hybrid design (learn more in our guide below). But instead of leather, it has a unique breathable fabric for the backing.

This fabric is what sets it apart from all other holsters. I noticed that it is super comfortable without having the issues with sweat that leather does. Leather breaks down when it is subjected to a lot of sweat, so it is best to wear an undershirt between it and your skin.

In very hot weather, I usually don’t want to wear an undershirt. So, this holster is my goto option. I have tried all of the Stealth Gear holsters and can say this fabric really makes a difference.

The Kydex shell fully protects my handgun and has perfect retention that is adjustable.

I like that it has a built-in sidecar for an extra magazine. It is easy to just throw this holster on, and I don’t have to worry about a separate mag carrier for my spare magazine.

I also like the clip on this holster. It is adjustable for ride height and cant angle and I can also tuck my shirt in behind it. The other holsters on our list don’t offer this, so this is the one I go for when I need to dress up and tuck in my shirt.

There are a bunch of gun models available for this holster, and plenty of light and laser options as well.

Recommended for:

The Stealth Gear Ventcore 1.0 AIWB Plus appendix holster is for anyone looking for a comfortable appendix holster for hot weather with a mag side car.

Video Review of the Stealth Gear AIWB Plus Holster

Cross Breed Xecutive – Best Budget Appendix Holster

• Material: Kydex
• Handgun Models Available: Over 75
• Return Policy: 30 Days
• Warranty Policy: Lifetime
• MSRP: $39.95

The Crossbreed Xecutive Holster is our pick for the best budget appendix holster.

If you have a tight budget and still want a decent appendix holster, this is the one for you.

I like that this Kydex holster is a compact, minimalist design. It is very slim which helps with comfort.

These holsters are custom made, so safety and retention is there as well.

I found that there are a bunch of options available with this holster. There is a ModWing attachment that provides better concealment (similar to a claw on other holsters).

There are six different clips available, including belt loops and tuckable clips. There is also a foam wedge available that helps to make this holster more comfortable.

However, these options do cost extra. So by the time you add a couple it actually costs more than our top pick above. I would recommend going with the CYA Ridge holster unless your budget is tight and you don’t want or can afford any other option.

Recommended for:

The Crossbreed Xecutive Holster is for anyone with a super tight budget that needs a safe appendix holster.

Video of the Xecutive holster (same as N8 Tactical)

Best Appendix Holster Tips – What to Look For

In our experience, finding an appendix (AIWB) holster that works for us and our handgun is one of the most difficult choices out of all the holster types.

I have found that so much depends on your body shape, handgun, clothing, and how you wear the holster. Even on our team one of us can try a holster and really like it while the others do not.

In this guide we will give you some tips on what we found when trying and actually using appendix holsters with a variety of our favorite concealed carry handguns.

Keep reading to find our tips that you won’t find anywhere else.

Important AIWB Holster Features

First, there are some important features that you need to look for when choosing an Appendix Holster.

Safety is always most important.

Some people (rightfully so) do not like appendix carry because when you sit or bend over the gun is pointed at your body. In a sensitive place I might add.

Carrying a handgun in the appendix position is perfectly safe if you have a holster that fully guards the trigger and retains the handgun properly.

If your holster does not fully guard the trigger do not use it.

This leads us to the second most important feature…

Retention

No matter what kind of holster you use, it should retain your handgun. This is especially important for appendix carry.

This is important so that the trigger always remains guarded. If your gun is wiggling around in the holster it could come out partially and expose the trigger.

I know when I feel something falling my natural reaction is to grab it. Imagine if you bend over to pick something up and your gun slides up and you grab it as a reaction. You could accidentally hit the trigger while the gun is pointed at your groin.

I have found that Kydex holsters made for my particular model of handgun usually have the best retention. Some leather holsters are custom molded and are nearly as good as well.

Universal holsters are hit and miss depending on the handgun. If you are considering a holster that works for many different guns, my experience is that those that work for the least number of guns (more sizes of holster) work better.

Comfort/Adjustability

Nearly everyone I talk to about AIWB holsters talks about how comfortable they are (or not). After all, there is a big chuck of metal down your pants.

There are a few things you can look for before you try the holster to know if it is comfortable or not.

Look to see how rounded the holster is around the bottom. This is the area that could cause the most pain around your groin area. Holsters that have flat or pointed edges should be avoided as they can cause pressure points of pain.

Also note if the belt clip is adjustable. This will give you the most options in where the holster rides on your body. For larger guns I have found this to be even more important.

Draw Grip

The whole reason for carrying a concealed handgun in the appendix position is so you can get to it quickly. While speed is important, getting a good full grip on the handgun is more important.

I have found that if I don’t have a full grip on my gun when I draw, I am trying to reposition my grip as I aim. This really slows me down and also causes me to be inaccurate.

In some cases I have seen others almost drop their gun during the draw process because their grip was hindered by the holster or their clothing.

The grip of your handgun should be high enough over the waist of your pants so that you can wrap your fingers around it. The backstrap of the gun should also not be covered by the sweat guard of the holster.

Similarly to retention, I have found that most holsters that are custom made for a particular gun usually allow a good draw grip. A holster with an adjustable clip will also allow you to move it to the best place for you.

Re-holstering

While it may not seem super critical during a self-defense situation, I have found that being able to holster my handgun without taking the holster off is important.

In order to be proficient with drawing and operating my handgun, training has been important. If I have to take the holster off every time I need to holster my handgun, it is a big waste of time and an aggravation. I find that I don’t train as much and really don’t want to use that holster.

If I was in an emergency and had to draw my handgun, I want to be able to re holster it quickly. I may need to help others or do some other task quickly.

Concealing Features

Carrying a handgun in the appendix position is one of the most concealable methods for most people. However, since appendix holsters are often narrow in width, I have found that the holster and the grip of my handgun can rotate away from my body, causing it to “print”.

The best Appendix holsters will have a “wing” or “claw” that extends from near the trigger on the holster and presses against inside of my waistband. This keeps the grip of my handgun close to my body and better concealed.

These wings can make it harder to put the holster on or can be too aggressive. The best appendix holsters will have adjustable claws (like the CYA Drift) or they will have sloping wings (like the Harry’s Holsters Infiltrator).

Clothing Considerations

In my experience, when most people complain that appendix carry is uncomfortable, it is because they are not wearing the holster correctly.

The first consideration is my pant size. If my pants can stay up without a belt, they are usually too tight for an appendix carry holster. After all, my pants have to not only accommodate me, but my gun and holster as well.

I usually get pants that are one size larger than I need. It is even better if they have some elastic in the waistband as well.

A stiff gun belt is also a must have. Since my pants are loose and my holster is attached to it, it needs to be stiff and durable since it is holding everything in place. If I keep having to adjust it and my pants move up and down a lot, it becomes uncomfortable.

I have also found that when carrying an appendix holster, I need to keep the bottom of the holster above my hip joint. This is so I can bend over and sit down comfortably.

I normally wear my pants a little lower than most people just because of my body shape. This is a problem for appendix carry since it puts the lower part of my holster right into my groin.

I find that I have to pull my pants up higher to get the holster in the right position. This is the biggest issue for most people and carrying appendix. If you have a belly that keeps you from getting your pants up high enough appendix carry may not be for you.

Appendix holsters are also most comfortable when worn in the center of the body. This is because this area offers the most room. If I slide my holster over to the 1 o’clock position, the bottom of the holster is closer to my leg and can be uncomfortable when I sit down or bend over.

I also like to wear a tight-fitting shirt under my AIWB holster. This keeps the holster from rubbing my skin and getting sweaty. If you don’t want to wear an undershirt, I have found that hybrid holsters are comfortable since they have a soft material against my skin.

Appendix Holster Materials

The only materials you should consider for an AIWB holster are Kydex and Leather. Holsters that are a hybrid design have both of these materials.

Kydex

Kydex is a type of polymer that can be formed to the specific shape of each gun model. Kydex works great for appendix holsters since it is a durable and rigid material. I know that my kydex holster is safe because it is securely holding my gun.

I like that Kydex holsters require no maintenance. Water or sweat doesn’t affect them and they are easy to clean. I find that most Kydex holsters have an adjustable retention screw so I can adjust the holster to my gun.

However, since Kydex is a hard, rigid material, they can be uncomfortable if they have any edges or points like I mentioned before. Make sure your Kydex appendix holster has rounded edges and no corners that can poke you.

Leather

A leather AIWB holster can be very comfortable. I like how leather just gets better with age as it forms to my body. It is a natural material that looks great and smells great as well.

But there are some things to watch out for.

Sweat can break down leather and cause it to deteriorate. I have found it best to wear an undershirt between the holster and my skin to prevent this as much as possible.

Leather usually requires break-in and maintenance as well. Moisture is the main enemy, so you do have to take care in how you clean it. I like to keep a care and maintenance kit on hand like the Craft Leather Care Kit.

Leather can soften over time and could become a safety issue if the areas around the trigger become soft. You also need to pay close attention to the retention of your handgun. With repeated use I have found it will eventually become too loose.

Hybrid

A Hybrid holster combines the comfort of leather with the retention and durability of kydex.

These holsters have a durable fabric or leather backing that sits against my body with a kydex shell attached to the front.

They are just as safe as a full kydex or leather holster, as long as they fully guard the trigger and have good retention.

The only disadvantage I have found is that some of them can be bulkier than a compact kydex holster. For a larger gun like a Walther PDP it can make a difference.

However, I have found that hybrid holsters are great in warm weather. I really don’t need an undershirt with them and they don’t cause as much skin irritation as a kydex holster does.

Price of an Appendix Holster

A good quality AIWB holster is between $50 and $100. Considering that this is much less than the cost of the handgun and ammo, there is no reason to try to save a few bucks here. A cheap $25 holster on Amazon may not be safe and will likely be a waste of money anyway.

Purchase from a reputable company with a good return and warranty policy. We have specifically listed this on all the holsters above so you can be sure you are buying from a good source.

The Best Appendix Holster for You

We hope this guide is helpful in finding the best appendix holster for you. I understand finding one that is both comfortable and functional is a challenge.

The holsters above are the best we have found after years of trying different ones. I hope that one of them becomes the perfect holster for you. But, if it does not, they all have great return policies.

The CYA Drift holster is a great appendix holster at a very good price.

If you have a larger gun you may want to go with Harry’s Holster Infiltrator. The rounded design and adjustability will really help.

Now that you have learned about Appendix Holsters, check out our other holster guides in the Defend Guides and Gear Reviews. Our Emergency preparation and Survival guides also have a ton of information that so hand in hand with self-defense.

Go back to the main Concealed Carry Guide

Hello from South West France,

Firstly many thanks for supporting BBR on Patreon, it is very much appreciated and certainly helps support me with the site and YouTube channel.

Your question is an interesting one and somewhat interestingly, based on the details I have managed to uncover, the answer as to which version of the Vortex Viper HD 8×42 binoculars is best is not completely straightforward:

I actually have reviewed the old version (SKU VPR-4208-HD): Vortex Viper HD 8×42 Binoculars Review, so I do have experience with them, but as you say the old version has been superseded as I made that review about 12 years ago now, when I was still pretty new to testing binoculars!

Whilst I really did like those Vortex binoculars, I unfortunately no longer have them with me, nor do I have the new version, so I can’t compare them side-by-side for you. But let’s take a look at the facts and see if we can draw some conclusions from that:

I did indeed first ask the BinoWizard if he could get some details for me:

BBR: Hi BinoWizard, can you compare all the main specifications and features of the old VIPER HD 8×42 binoculars (sku VPR-4208-HD) versus the current model for me: VIPER HD 8×42 binoculars (SKU V200)

BinoWizard: Certainly! Here’s a comparison of the main specifications and features of the old VIPER HD 8×42 binoculars (SKU VPR-4208-HD) and the current model VIPER HD 8×42 binoculars (SKU V200) based on the information provided on the respective product pages:

Old Vortex VIPER HD 8×42 binoculars (SKU VPR-4208-HD):

1. Magnification: 8x
2. Objective Lens Diameter: 42mm
3. Prism System: Roof prism
4. Lens Coatings: XR™ Fully Multi-Coated
5. Field of View: 347 feet at 1000 yards (6.6 degrees angular field of view)
6. Close Focus Distance: 5.1 feet (1.55m)
7. Eye Relief: 20mm
8. Interpupillary Distance 59-75 mm
9. Weight: Weight 24.2 oz (686g)
10. Dimensions 5.8 inches (14.7cm) x 5.3 inches (13.4cm)

Current Vortex VIPER HD 8×42 binoculars (SKU V200):

1. Magnification: 8x
2. Objective Lens Diameter: 42mm
3. Prism System: Roof prism
4. Lens Coatings: XR™ Fully Multi-Coated
5. Field of View: 409 feet at 1000 yards (7.8 degrees angular field of view)
6. Close Focus Distance: 6 feet (1.83m)
7. Eye Relief: 18mm
8. Interpupillary Distance 55-74 mm
9. Weight: Weight 24.5 oz (695g)
10. Dimensions 5.6 inches (14.2cm) x 4.9 inches (12.4cm)

Optical Components & Coatings

BinoWizard was able to help with the basic specifications but was not much help when I quizzed him further about the specifics of the optics used. It is not really his fault as the AI can only go by what information is supplied and published. However, as humans, we can make some assumptions:

ED Glass

We know for sure that the old Viper HD binoculars do use Extra-low Dispersion (ED) glass in the lenses because the product page on the Vortex Optics website states the following “premium HD (High Density) extra-low dispersion glass” which helps in reducing chromatic aberration and enhancing color fidelity, sharpness, and contrast in the images.

However, the product listing on the new Viper does not specifically mention ED glass anywhere, only that it uses the Vortex HD optical system.

It is a strange omission, and I could not find an official statement from Vortex to state what exactly their HD system refers to, but I asked BinoWizard, and this is what he came back with:

I quizzed him about where he got this info from as it does sound very much like manufacturers marketing jargon lacking in specific details, unfortunately, it was not much use:

BinoWizard: I apologize for any confusion caused, but I don’t have direct access to the internet or specific web pages. The information I provided about Vortex’s HD optical system is based on my training on a diverse range of data, including product descriptions, reviews, and general knowledge about optics. It’s important to note that while I strive to provide accurate and up-to-date information, it’s always a good idea to verify details and consult official sources, such as the manufacturer’s website or product documentation, for the most precise and current information on specific products.

Anyway, based on the BinoWizard’s information and the fact that Vortex Optics also advertise their higher-end Razor binoculars like the Vortex Razor HD 8×42 as also using their HD optical system, which I know used ED glass, I think we can assume that these new Vortex Viper HD’s do probably have ED glass in their lenses.

I would also like to include that whilst there may be some minor differences in the exact glass and coatings used, my guess would be that the overall level of optics and thus the resultant observable quality of view will be very similar.

Optical Specifications

What is certainly different is the optical pathway and lens configuration as the fields of view, close focus distances, and eye relief are different and these would be noticeable if you were to compare the views side-by-side. Which is best will depend on your specific needs and preferences.

Field of View

Measuring 409 feet wide at a distance of 1000 yards which equals a viewing angle of 7.8 degrees, the new Vortex VIPER HD 8×42 binoculars (SKU V200) are what I would describe Wide Angle Binoculars and they offer a substantially wider view than the old version (347 feet at 1000 yards (6.6 degrees).

For most people, this would be the preferable choice, but especially if like you, you are after a good birding binocular as this helps make it easier to quickly locate and follow small fast moving objects… like birds.

Eye Relief & Close Focus Distance

However, in order to achieve this wide view, Vortex has obviously had to compromise the amount of eye relief and it has also resulted in a slightly longer minimum focus distance.

Having said that and whilst it is true that the old versions are better in both these areas, the new version is still pretty good.

The 18mm of eye relief should be sufficient for most users who need to wear glasses, but if you do have thick glasses and or they sit far from your eyes, then the improved 20mm of eye relief you get on the old Viper could be important.

The close focus distances will only really be an issue if you specifically like to view objects from a very close range and if so, there are better binoculars for this purpose – for example, the Pentax Papilio II 8.5×21 Binoculars

Body Design, Materials & Components

I was not able to find out any details in regard to the chassis materials and whilst the styling is somewhat similar there are some differences:

The overall dimensions and weights are different, but none are big enough to warrant talking about.

In terms of style, I personally prefer the look of the older version, especially the eyecups, eyepieces, and focus wheel, but this is mostly just my personal preference.

Although having said that, the older focus wheel was an all-metal exterior, whilst the new one has a rubber track and I think is made of plastic. This does not mean the focus mechanism will be any different, but I do feel metal ones look more premium.

Conclusions

I think the overall styling and build quality of the older Vortex Viper HD 8×42 binoculars (sku VPR-4208-HD) was probably a little better, with more metal parts.

However, the very wide field of view on the new Viper HD 8×42 binoculars (SKU V200) is hard to ignore, especially as a birder.

Either way, I think both sets are certainly much, much better than the 411 EUR you have paid for them, so I am sure you have a good deal no matter which you choose.

Comments from Vortex

Just to let you know that I have also reached out to my contacts at Vortex to see if they have anything to add. I will include them here as soon as I get any.

The .308 Winchester (.308 Win) and 5.56 NATO rounds are two of the most popular centerfire rifle cartridges in the United States and across North America. Both cartridges are battle-proven and currently in service with the U.S. Military and its NATO allies.

The 308 vs 556 debate has been raging between civilian marksman, law enforcement, and military shooters for well over 60 years and is akin to a clash of heavyweight titans nothing short of Ali vs Frasier.

Sufficed to say, it is unlikely that we will be able to crown a victor in the context of this article.

However, get ready for an absolute knock-down, drag-out, slugfest between two of the most popular and iconic cartridges in shooting!

A Quick Note on Nomenclature

In the context of this article, .308 Winchester (308 Win) and 7.62x51mm NATO (762 NATO) will be used interchangeably. The same can be said for .223 Remington (223 Rem) and 5.56x45mm NATO (556 NATO).

However, please understand that rifles chambered in 308 and 223 are different than those chambered in their NATO spec equivalents, 762 and 556, respectively.

It’s important to note that NATO spec ammunition should ONLY be fired from rifles chambered to NATO specifications.

You should experience zero issues shooting .223 Rem ammo in your 5.56 rifle, but not vice versa. The same is true for .308 in a 7.62 rifle. This is due to chamber pressure differences between the .223 vs 5.56 and .308 vs 7.62 rounds.

Bottom line: Know what round your rifle is chambered in (it’s typically engraved on the barrel or receiver of your rifle).

What is .308 Win?

Following the end of the Korean War, the U.S. Military started developing a replacement for the storied M1 Garand. Although the M1 Garand had served the U.S. Armed Forces valiantly through World War II and Korea, the military wanted a more modern service rifle with select-fire capability and detachable magazines similar to the Stg-44 and AK-47.

The M1 Garand was chambered in the 30-06 Springfield cartridge, 7.62x63mm NATO designation, a round that has been credited with taking down every North American large game animal, including the great bears.

With advancements in rifle powder technology and case design in the 1950s, the new 7.62x51mm NATO rifle round was able to achieve neatly identical ballistic performance as the 30-06 Springfield with a shorter cartridge case length and lower overall weight.

The US Army officially adopted the 7.62x51mm NATO round and the new M14 battle rifle in 1958. The M14 featured a 20-round detachable magazine and select fire capability (semi-auto and full auto).

The M14 saw its first action in the Vietnam War before being quickly being replaced by the M16 in 1964.

762 has also been utilized in multiple machine guns fielded by the U.S. Military, including the M60, M240B, and GAU-17/A minigun.

Seeing the potential of the 762 in the civilian market, Winchester was quick to adapt the new rifle round to its Model 70 bolt action rifle. The civilian version of the 7.62 was named the .308 Winchester.

Other major firearms manufacturers followed suit and the 308 Winchester quickly became available in multiple bolt action, pump, and semi-automatic rifle platforms.

Other popular 308 Winchester bolt action rifles include:

• Savage 11/110
• Remington 700
• Ruger M77 Hawkeye
• Browning X-Bolt
• Weatherby Vanguard

The 308 Winchester has since become the most popular big game hunting round in the world with bullet weights typically ranging between 120 to 180 grains.

With astounding accuracy, stopping power, and an effective range out to 1,000 yards (with appropriate loadings), the 308 is a staple in deer hunting camps and in marksmanship competitions across the globe.

What is 5.56 NATO?

The 5.56x45mm NATO cartridge was derived from the .223 Remington (which itself descended from the .222 Remington). Development of the 223 Rem rifle round began in 1957 and the final design was submitted by Remington Arms to the Sporting Arms and Ammunition Manufacturers’ Institute (SAAMI) in 1962.

The development of the 223 Remington cartridge was a joint operation organized by the U.S. Continental Army Command between Fairchild Industries, Remington Arms, and Eugene Stoner of Armalite.

Eugene Stone was the primary inventor of the AR-10 rifle (chambered in 7.62), which he was invited to scale down to accommodate the new .223 Rem cartridge.

The resulting rifle was the AR-15, which has become the most popular sporting rifle design in the United States. The military adopted a select-fire version of the AR-15, designating it the M16 in 1964.

FN Herstal developed the 5.56x45mm round beginning in 1970 using the 223 as a parent case. The 5.56 and .223 cases are identical in case dimensions.

However, the primary difference between the two cartridges is the maximum pressure allowance for the rifle rounds.

SAAMI specifications for the .223 Rem indicate that a maximum allowable chamber pressure of 55,000 psi. However, the 5.56 case was designed to handle pressures up to around 61,000 psi.

This is why you should NEVER fire 5.56 from a firearm chambered in .223 Rem, as the chamber a rifle chambered in 223 Remington is not rated to handle the pressure of a 5.56 round.

The 223 was quickly adopted to both AR platform and bolt action rifles from all major firearm manufacturers. Its low recoil impulse and flatter trajectory makes it ideal for marksmanship trials and varmint hunters.

As the .223 Remington ammo can be purchased in a variety of bullet weights for a variety of different applications, but the most common bullet weights that you’ll find in most all gun shops and sporting goods stores are 55, 62, and 69 grain.

.308 Win vs 5.56 NATO – The Contest Begins

Now that you have a clearer understanding of where each round came from, it’s time to ring the bell and let these two heavyweight sluggers throw hands! We’ve got 8 rounds (categories) for these two NATO pugilists to contend in.

Let’s get it on!

Round #1 – Recoil

Winner – 5.56 NATO

The 223 and 556 rounds were developed in response to the military’s need for a lower recoil battle rifle/carbine.

Although the 308 Winchester cartridge is a capable rifle round, it has almost double the case capacity and fires much heavier bullets. All of this adds up to considerably more felt recoil when shooting a 308.

The lower recoil of the 556 allows for higher accuracy and faster follow-up shots when engaging targets in semi-automatic or fully automatic fire.

Round #2 – Weight

Winner – 5.56 NATO

This is perhaps one of the biggest advantages of the 223 over the 308. The 308 Winchester is considerably heavier than its 223 Remington counterpart and soldiers can carry considerably more 223 into battle.

This was one of the main reasons for the development of the 556. Assuming a 22-pound ammo loadout, a soldier can carry approximately 660 rounds of 223 vs only 280 rounds of 308.

Round #3 – Effective Range

Winner – 7.62 NATO

7.62 was developed to have outstanding accuracy at longer ranges. Standard 308 Win loadings can still be combat effective out to 1,000 yards.

By comparison, the 5.56 is typically only considered effective out to about 500 yards.

When shooting out past 500 yards, wind drift becomes a major issue. With a heavier bullet, the 308 is going to be less affected by wind conditions than the lighter weight 5.56 rifle round.

Military and Law Enforcement snipers have long favored the more powerful 308 Winchester round for its accuracy and effective range.

Round #4 – Barrier Penetration

Winner – 7.62 NATO

Barrier penetration, or lack thereof, has been one of the biggest critiques of the 5.56 since its inception.

The 223 is faster but lighter in weight, and is therefore much more susceptible to deflection and tumbling when it encounters an obstacle when compared to the much heavier 308.

This was a major issue during the Vietnam War and why many veterans of that war are somewhat sour on the M16 rifle.

The newer 5.56 round has somewhat better barrier penetration when compared to the initial design of the 223 Rem, however neither compares to the raw penetrating power of a 147 grain bullet fired from a 308 Winchester chambered rifle.

Round #5 – Self Defense

Winner – 5.56 NATO by a tiny margin

Both the 5.56 and the 7.62 are going to be extremely effective during a self-defense situation.

Both cartridges are combat-proven and lethal within self-defense ranges.

The only caveat is that the 308 will be more prone to over penetration in a home defense situation, which is why I have to give a slight edge to 5.56.

Round #6 – Accuracy

Winner – Wash

Both the 308 and 223 are extremely accurate and reliable. Under 500 yards it is unlikely a shooter will be able to detect any noticeable difference in accuracy between the two rounds.

Round #7 – Stopping Power

Winner – 7.62 NATO

With its heavier bullet, the 762 has almost double the energy (ft-lb) at the muzzle when compared to the 5.56 round. We will cover more of the ballistic data below, however there’s no denying the sheer power and force of the 308 Winchester, which is why it is the ideal choice for big game hunting as well.

Round #8 – Reloading

Winner – Wash

Both the 223 Remington and the 308 Winchester are a dream to reload.

With a plethora of suitable powders, different bullets to choose from, and plenty of brass cartridges available on the secondary market, it makes reloading 223 and 308 a fun and enjoyable experience.

The average hand loader can easily produce match-grade ammo that is tailored to their rifle without the cost of purchasing match ammunition.

Crowning a Champion in the 308 vs 556 Title Fight

Honestly, this one is simply too close to call and we’re going to have to go to the judge’s scorecards to make a final determination.

But that judge isn’t me, it’s YOU!

The real difference between these two calibers is what your intended purpose is.

Looking to take down North American large game starting at deer and going up thorough Elk? Then look no further to the 308 Winchester with a box of hunting soft points to get the job done!

Maybe you’re looking to get into long range shooting out past 500 yards? 7.62 get’s the nod here as well with some high quality match grade full metal jacket (FMJ) ammo.

Maybe you’ve got a lot of varmints around your ranch and you need something light weight with fast follow up shots? Then an AR-15 or bolt action 223 Remington rifle will serve you well harvesting small game as your hunting rifle of choice.

Or perhaps you just want to get out to the range and have a good time plinking or target shooting with some cheap FMJ ammo? 5.56 takes this tile as well.

And then, of course, maybe you just want to enjoy your 2nd Amendment Rights and enjoy the freedoms our Forefather’s fought for? Then get both and see the benefits and limitations of both 223 and 308.

No matter which caliber you chose as the winner of this heavyweight bout, pick something that you enjoy shooting and get out to the range and see how tight you can make those 100-yard groupings!

And remember, buying in bulk is always smart, make sure to check out our stock of bulk 308 ammo and 5.56 bulk ammo.

308 vs 5.56 Ballistics

For all my readers who love the numbers, we have made an outstanding ballistics table comparing both .308 and 5.56.

We’ve compared velocity in feet per second (FPS), energy in foot-pounds (ft-lb), and bullet drop at various combat yardages to help you pick the best caliber for your intended purpose.

308 Winchester Ballistics: Chart of Average 308 Winchester Ballistics

Note: This information comes from the manufacturer and is for informational purposes only. The actual ballistics obtained with your firearm can vary considerably from the advertised ballistics. Also, ballistics can vary from lot to lot with the same brand and type load.

5.56x45mm Ballistics: Chart of Average 5.56x45mm Ballistics

Note: This information comes from the manufacturer and is for informational purposes only. The actual ballistics obtained with your firearm can vary considerably from the advertised ballistics. Also, ballistics can vary from lot to lot with the same brand and type load.

Gun ownership and control in the U.S. has long been a contentious topic, highlighting an intricate balance between constitutional rights and public safety. At its center lies student rights as they intersect with legal restrictions on firearm possession; this article investigates this multifaceted issue by exploring its complexities, legal landscape, and role of activism in shaping its narrative. As students’ voices continue to play a crucial role in the ongoing dialogue, understanding the nuances of this debate becomes essential for finding common ground and forging equitable solutions. This article sheds light on the intricate dynamics surrounding student rights and the complexities of gun ownership in the United States.

Perspectives of the Second Amendment in the U.S. Constitution

Since 1791, when it was ratified into law, the Second Amendment of the U.S. Constitution has caused much legal and political debate over its meaning and application. Some maintain it protects unrestricted firearm ownership for individuals, while others argue its primary goal is maintaining state militias.

The Second Amendment has been interpreted differently by various Supreme Court decisions over time, as seen by landmark cases such as District of Columbia v. Heller (2008), wherein the court upheld an individual’s right to possess firearms for self-defense within their home – although these rights may be subject to regulation and limitation by certain states and governments.

Student Rights within Educational Institutions

Student gun rights can be complex. While students have Second Amendment rights like any citizen, these may be restricted by educational institutions that impose policies and regulations concerning firearms on campus in order to ensure safety for students, faculty, staff, and all others enrolled there.

Policies designed to combat gun-related incidents often include restrictions on carrying concealed weapons on campus and dormitories or bans on open carry altogether. While such regulations aim to minimize risks within educational environments, they can sometimes create tensions between students wishing to exercise their Second Amendment rights and institutions attempting to ensure a safe atmosphere.

Legal Restrictions on Student Gun Ownership

Institutional policies and federal and state laws both limit student gun ownership. For instance, the Gun-Free School Zones Act of 1990 restricts who may possess firearms on school property knowingly; this restriction covers areas surrounding elementary and secondary schools as well as restricts where students can carry firearms legally.

State laws regarding firearm possession and carrying on and off college campuses vary considerably, ranging from permitting concealed carry permits to bring guns onto campus grounds to no-carry policies on educational premises; all this can lead to considerable confusion for students navigating their rights and legal implications.

Students and Student Activism – Its Function and Implications

Debates over student rights and gun ownership have inspired widespread activism among young people. Following tragic incidents involving gun violence at educational institutions like Parkland in 2018, student-led movements advocating for tighter gun control measures gained national traction, underscoring their importance when balanced with student safety considerations.

Young people’s activism has played a critical role in shaping public opinion and legislative actions, underscoring their importance as voices for discussing gun ownership and control.

How to Navigate a Complex Landscape

Students looking to exercise their Second Amendment rights within legal restrictions and institutional policies must become familiar with their state and educational institution’s regulations regarding gun possession. This may involve researching state gun laws, applying for concealed carry permits where available, and adhering to campus firearm policies.

Students should engage in open and respectful dialogue regarding this issue with peers, educators, and policymakers to address concerns and gain an in-depth knowledge of student rights and gun ownership issues.

As students grapple with the complexities of student rights and legal restrictions on gun ownership, they also often struggle with academic responsibilities. If your schedule is tight or you need extra help with coursework, a great option for meeting academic obligations while engaging in gun control discussions is to buy a philosophy paper on speedypaper.com, a reputable academic writing service. Such an approach allows students to participate in these crucial discussions while fulfilling academic responsibilities.

Conclusion 

At its core, student rights and legal restrictions on gun ownership is an intricate issue that often causes tensions to escalate into a contentious debate. While the Second Amendment upholds an individual’s right to bear arms, educational institutions and various levels of government often impose restrictions to enhance public safety. Navigating this complex landscape successfully requires having an in-depth knowledge of relevant laws and policies as well as engaging in constructive dialogue to bridge divides about gun control and ownership.

Establishing an equitable balance between protecting students’ constitutional rights and maintaining safety in educational environments remains a formidable task. Doing so requires continuing discussions, legal tweaks, and commitments from all parties involved – students, educators, parents, and the broader community alike. With our nation grappling with this issue, it cannot be overemphasized how essential open dialogue, informed decision-making, and proactive measures against gun incidents are. Only through collective effort can equitable solutions that simultaneously protect both individual rights and public safety within institutions.

There are a lot of moving parts that go into a successful archery hunt. Broadhead choice is an intricate piece of it. They provide confidence and confidence is as deadly as the broadheads themselves.

After sending broadhead upon broadhead downrange through both targets and animals, we’ve come up with a recipe for success. The broadhead needs to be durable, fly well, and excel at slicing and dicing of course. With that in mind, we’ve put together a heavy hitter list of broadheads that deserve your attention in 2024.

Scroll through to see all of our recommendations, and at the end of our list, be sure to check out our buyer’s guide. Check out our comparison chart when it’s time to narrow down your decision.

The Best Broadheads for Hunting in 2024

• Best Overall Broadhead: Evolution Jekyll
• Best Budget Broadhead: Muzzy Trocar three-blade
• Best Fixed Blade: Day Six Evo
• Best Mechanical: Sevr
• Best Hybrid:Evolution Outdoors Hyde

Broadheads Comparison Chart

Why You Should Trust Us

Failure is something I became friends with early on bowhunting. Through the lessons that came with this failure, it’s become very apparent to me what works and what doesn’t. With broadheads, failure is not an option for me.

If all of the hours got added up of me spending time in the bowhunting woods trying to reach out and touch big game animals with broadheads, well I’d probably consider myself even luckier than I already do. Those woods are a classroom, and choosing which broadheads come along for the ride, could mean the difference between getting an A or an F.

Whether it’s trying to hit a dot on a target or hit a single patch of hair on a live animal, broadhead, functionality, durability, and effectiveness are all things on my radar. When I find one that hits all of those marks, I hang on for dear life, because confidence is not easily earned.

Along with my personal experience, I also took into consideration the opinions and experiences of other seasoned hunters around me. And with that what broadheads were hot on the market was also paid attention to.

Every broadhead listed above will do what you need it to do. If you’re kicking around what broadheads to run for the coming bowhunting season, one of these is going to do you right and then some.

Buyer’s Guide: How to Buy the Best Broadheads for Hunting

Mechanical vs. Fixed

One of the age-old and ongoing debates in archery hunting camps is mechanical broadheads versus fixed-blade broadheads. Passionate arguments exist on both sides of the spectrum and both broadhead designs reliably work. Which one is better, though? The better question is which one is better for you.

The flat-out truth is this — both of these broadhead designs work. Endless success photos from bowhunters across the country are the proof in the pudding. Of course, each has its pros and cons. So, we’re going to break it down.

Fixed Blade

The fixed-blade broadhead has been doing its thing since the beginning of bowhunting. It’s been there and done that millions of times over again. So, it’s no surprise when hunters cling to this style of head. What you get is what you get with a fixed blade.

The biggest advantage of running a fixed-blade broadhead is going to be reliability. There are no moving parts on a fixed blade like there are on a mechanical broadhead. For this reason, there is no worry of failure.

Along with that, these are inherently going to penetrate better, as there is no loss of energy from blades having to open. That means more pass-through shots. And lastly, fixed blades tend to be more durable overall. Especially the one-piece designs and heads made with higher-end steel.

When it comes to downsides, the first that comes to mind is tuning. Fixed-blade broadheads are harder to tune across the board. These vanes on the front end of your arrow influence flight much more than mechanicals do. This makes field point accuracy harder to come by.

Secondly, you might get more pass-through shots, but the wound channels are smaller. Smaller wound channels can lead to tougher blood trails, especially on marginal shots. And the last note is that higher-end fixed blades are also much more pricey.

Pros

• Reliable
• Better penetration
• Durable

Cons

• Harder to tune
• Smaller wound channels
• Higher-end heads are very pricey

Mechanical

Technology is an ever-evolving thing. People see gaps in efficiency and naturally want to fill them. The mechanical broadhead is a perfect example of that. It excels where the fixed blade doesn’t.

A huge selling point for mechanical broadheads is their impeccable arrow flight. It is very unlikely that you’ll need to do any sort of broadhead tuning with these things. This makes things so much easier before a hunt.

And once you do get on that hunt, you’ll hopefully loose an arrow at what you seek. Note that the blood trail is nothing short of fantastic, due to the massive cutting diameter that these broadheads inflict. If that sounds good to you, you won’t have to pay an arm and a leg to get yourself into a quality mechanical broadhead, either.

While the mechanical broadhead excels where the fixed-blade broadhead doesn’t, it also lacks where the fixed-blade excels. First on the list is reliability. These have moving parts and can absolutely fail. With how hard archery opportunities are to come by, that doesn’t sit well with some bowhunters.

And because these heads expand on impact, there is always a loss of energy due to the force it takes to open up the blades. This robs folks of penetration. If the broadhead indeed comes out the other side, it’s also a very real possibility that it won’t all be intact. Mechanical broadheads aren’t nearly as durable as fixed blades.

Pros

• Impeccable arrow flight
• Huge wound channels = Great blood trails
• Affordable

Cons

• Can fail and not open
• Lacks in penetration
• Prone to breaking

Final Thoughts

When the book comes to a close, I’m not going to tell you that there is a right answer here across the board. There are too many variables for that.

Some folks swear by fixed blades and others swear by mechanicals, and that says two things. One, they are both damn good at their job. And two, don’t get too caught up in what other folks think. Mold your arrow setup to you and your style of hunting.

In the end, a broadhead is just a tool. The person wielding that tool is the one really running the show.

FAQ