YAKIMA, Wash. – Hunting Washington’s most prized deer can take significant time and effort, not to mention a little bit of luck.

For 27-year-old Jake Fife, it took 16 years to earn an archery tag for one of Yakima County’s most coveted and restricted units, the location of which he asked not be used in this article. So when his early scouting last summer identified a buck bigger than any he’d ever seen before, bringing it home became a single-minded obsession that defined his daily routine.

“Wake up, go to work, think about the deer, get off work, go see the deer,” Fife recalled. “Think more about the deer. Come home, sleep think about the deer. Dream about the deer.”

Those dreams became haunted by a missed opportunity on the opening day of the season, Sept. 1, but nine days later Fife found the perfect chance for redemption. Countless hours of target practice finally paid off when he took down the buck, two weeks before the season ended.

Fife’s elation and pride from his first archery kill along with a full freezer plus plenty for friends from 175 pounds hanging at the meat locker provided enough rewards, but he would earn much more. The buck’s net score of 229 shattered the previous record of 2033/8 for Washington nontypical mule deer, and it won Best-of-Show in the archery category of the Horn and Antler competition at February’s Central Washington Sportsmen Show.

“It was really special due to the fact that I was able to finally get it down with a bow after a lot of failed attempts on other deer and stuff that I ended up never getting,” Fife said. “I feel pretty spoiled, but at the same time, there was a lot of hard work and disappointment before that happened.”

Hunting in his blood

Fife took his first hunter’s safety course to acquire a license at eight years old, following in the footsteps of his father and grandfather.

He initially applied for the unit where he would eventually find his record-breaking buck as 10-year-old, and Fife gained experience hunting elsewhere with his father, Gary Fife. Longtime hunting partner Trevor Dallman met Fife during their freshman year at Selah High and joined him in collecting virtually all of the many deer mounts now hanging from the wall in his east Selah home.

“We started off pretty young and just kind of going together and before you know it, we just hunted well together and started having good success,” Dallman said. “Mostly deer, elk and waterfowl.”

Fife learned to hunt with rifles and muzzleloaders before finally picking up a bow a little more than three years ago. He worked hard to gain confidence and skill with his Bowtech Carbon Knight, learning how to factor in the wind and hide well enough to creep within range of a potential target. Dallman said the Naches Valley head baseball coach and P.E. teacher has always had the “eagle eye” for finding the biggest game animals, including a memorable one that got away after a close call a couple years ago.

So when Fife sent Dallman a picture of an even more massive buck, Dallman quickly agreed to be a spotter and help out however he could. That meant tagging along whenever possible, and he heard plenty of stories from days when he couldn’t make it out to join his friend.

“He’s just so dedicated, I knew he wasn’t going to go for anything else,” Dallman said. “There was multiple other bucks when he got this one that were, at any other time, ‘wow, that’s a huge buck.’”

As one of two hunters selected in late June for an archery tag on a unit known for old, large bucks, Fife found his ultimate goal after several days of scouting about three weeks before the season opened. He tried to track the buck for about six hours daily on the weekends and two to three during the week, totaling well over 50 hours.

Finding trends proved more difficult than expected as the buck wandered around to different trails, bedding down and drinking water at multiple spots. Fife figured the deer’s tendency to stay in the general area would give him a good chance, though he couldn’t imagine just how soon it would come.

Taking down a “giant”

Fife didn’t sleep much the night before he began his hunt for the buck he referred to as a “giant” in a blog post for Northwest Sportsman magazine last October.

He woke up early and shortly after the sun rose saw a shocking sight — the buck of his dreams all alone. Fife carefully worked his way to within 70 yards of the patch of sage where he believed the deer was resting, only to see it stand up 30 yards away, then bolt upon seeing a disturbance so close.

“He didn’t stop to look back to see what I was,” Fife said. “I watched him go over one ridge and then go over another ridge and then go over another ridge. I was like ‘oh my god’ and then he never came out of that one, a big canyon, so I knew he was around.”

Nerves engulfed Fife even more than before following the close encounter, but he remained patient, waiting for the ideal moment. He saw the buck out in the open and with others over the next few days, including on a couple when the unit was closed, choosing to keep his distance rather than risk another failed stalk.

Finally, on Sunday, Sept. 10, Fife discovered the buck behind a large patch of brush and watched it feed while darkening up its horns by rubbing them on and off for about two and a half hours. He also called Dallman, who went out to spot for his friend as quickly as possible on another beautiful, sunny morning.

“Pretty much I had a perfect view,” Dallman said. “You could drive this road up on this hill and I could see everything.”

He watched as Fife slowly and methodically crept towards the bottom of the draw, eventually taking off his shoes and crawling on hands and knees through cheatgrass and stickers. He eventually settled into a spot about 40 yards away, behind a bush enough to be hidden from the deer, with a slight, steady breeze blowing into his face.

But as Fife partially stood up, awkwardly off-balance, waiting for the deer to stand and turn around, he felt his bow jump a bit and realized he needed a more comfortable position. So he immediately pulled back the string, stepped up and through the bush, then when the buck got up, locked eyes, and stomped his foot down, Fife let his arrow fly.

“It just went right through him, just disappeared,” Fife said. “It happened so fast I was just like — I knew I seen that I hit him but it didn’t make much sound or anything.”

An anxious hour

Doubts about what looked like a perfect shot crept into Fife’s mind after he watched the buck sprint away at full speed, and a phone call to Dallman only confirmed those fears.

From the road, he’d seen the buck tear off through the plain at full speed showing no signs of injury, then eventually slow down before it headed into some bushes and disappeared. Fife couldn’t find any traces of blood — or his arrow — so he decided to wait an hour until about 12:30 p.m. to begin a thorough search.

Dallman directed Fife to the bushes, and there it was, a buck even bigger and more incredible than he’d seen at a distance or in his pictures. Dallman and a game warden who watched the hunt helped Fife back to the truck with his price, which he estimates weighed about 300 pounds.

The success garnered Fife plenty of attention and opportunities to tell his story to fellow hunters, but he insists the high score isn’t really important to him. He’s hoping a full mount will be done by the end of the summer, and he’ll always have some unforgettable memories.

“Not even just to get him, but to be able to hunt a deer of that caliber was pretty cool,” Fife said. “Who knows if it’ll ever happen again? It might not.”

During the 2006 deer season, Kentucky whitetail hunters returned with a bang to post a near-record harvest of 122,233 animals – just shy of being 10,000 more than the previous season. Following the highest harvest on record in 2004, the 2006 season missed the mark of 124,752 by just 2,500 deer. Hunters obviously found a good deal more success in the Kentucky woodlands last season.

Or else it was time to restock the freezer from the big harvest two years before.

Either way, the numbers certainly show that whitetails in the Bluegrass are alive and well – and plentiful.

Over the past five seasons, harvest numbers had climbed steadily from approximately 115,000 in 2002, to 116,000 in 2003, and then the record season of about 124,000 in 2004.

In 2005, the significant drop in the kill back to 112,000 or so didn’t seem to fit the upward trend. Kentucky Fish and Wildlife Department Resources (KDFWR) deer biologists weren’t sure why the decline occurred. After a record season, the chances of topping it the very next year are normally slim. Yet a reduction of more than 10,000 was somewhat unexpected.

Perhaps the hop up from 2005 to 2006 of about 10,000 animals was likewise a little unusual. With the additional harvest data from 2006 now in hand, it’s certain that the herd remains in excellent shape – and that in 2005, hunters just didn’t take as many deer as they did the year before, when the record was set.

That year, the weather was quite warm early in the season. Perhaps deer didn’t move as much as usual. Or maybe other conditions made hunting tougher than it normally is.

Whatever the reason, 2005 was an off year, though the 2006 season was another story altogether. Hunters got on track and took very nearly the minimum 125,000 deer that KDFWR biologists would like to see harvested each season.

It’s interesting to note that of the 20 counties with the highest density of deer per square mile from last year, only one county within that list changed for this year.

Using harvest numbers versus the number of square miles of habitat as an indicator, Logan County entered the top 20 counties for highest density, while Scott County dropped out. All of the remaining counties listed using 2005 season data stayed on the list after 2006 data was calculated.

Of the top 20 Kentucky counties, eight show a density of 10 deer per square mile, while all the other 12 have better than seven deer per square mile. Note that the counties with the best densities aren’t necessarily the counties with the highest harvests. Counties with less habitat can have a lower harvest, yet rank high in deer per square mile – just because in general, fewer deer are taken from smaller counties.

Statewide, the Commonwealth had 37 counties with a harvest of 1,000 animals or more, eight with over 2,000 and two more with more than 3,000 deer taken. Last year, then, more than a third of Kentucky counties produced harvests of 1,000 deer or better.

Likewise, five other counties on the top 20 deer-density list had fewer than 1,000 taken, but scored very well using that parameter as an measure of herd size.

From all indications, the 2007 season should give hunters the same opportunity to be successful, reach that magic mark and help keep the herd in balance and in check.

Here’s the breakdown by wildlife region of the trends in herd growth throughout Kentucky, and where you can expect to find the highest concentrations of deer this fall.

SOUTHEAST REGION

Last season, if you recall, in Kentucky’s toughest region for deer hunting, one lone county topped the 1,000 deer-per-county harvest minimum we use to help determine the better places to find numbers of whitetails.

Last season, three counties came on strong and made the cut – although interestingly, the county wasn’t one of the three in 2005.

Whitley County had a harvest of over 1,000 animals in 2005, but reported a few less in 2006. But a reported 958 whitetails wasn’t too far off the mark. Likewise, Casey and Cumberland counties also nearly broke the 1,000-mark harvest club. Each had more than 970 deer taken last year.

This indicates that these three counties are knocking on the door of having much improved herd numbers, say, over just five years ago – despite having less-than-ideal habitat for deer to thrive in.

In the Southeast Region last season, top performers were Green County at 1,225, Pulaski County at 1,009 and Adair County at 1,001. You’ll note by looking at the map that these counties, as well as the others mentioned, are not in the heart of the Cumberland Plateau. Rather, they lie on the outskirts of the more mountainous Southeast Region.

That’s a key in locating where more whitetails will potentially be in this neck of the woods. Yet in much of the region, things are starting to blossom nicely, given the Southeast’s overall habitat quality.

Last season, the total number of deer taken in the Southeast Region was 17,770, a significant jump from the previous season. Most of the 29-county region saw a jump in individual county harvests last season. Generally, these counties still register as the lowest in density, or deer per square mile, but numbers do appear to keep climbing slowly.

Several counties in the middle of the pack for this region saw jumps of 50 to 100 more deer harvested last year. Last season, more than 20 counties reported harvests of over 400.

Counties in the region that ranked highest in deer density were Cumberland, Taylor and Adair, all of which are carrying about three deer per square mile of habitat. In this region, Cumberland and Taylor counties – though not among the counties with 1,000 or more deer harvested – are still good spots to find more deer this season.

NORTHEAST REGION

In 2006, the Northeast Region reported more than 16,000 deer taken, which was also an increase over the previous season. In terms of harvest, the better counties remained the same as the previous season. Once again, Bracken County is tops in the Northeast in terms of highest deer density, holding 7.66 deer per square mile. But Boyd and Robertson counties are barking at Bracken’s heels, with six deer per square

mile – give or take.

The biggest harvest numbers from last year were posted in Lawrence, with more than 1,500 being taken. In this region, Bracken (with 1,450), Carter (1,427), Lewis (1,303) and Greenup (1,220) all posted high deer densities, at almost four deer per square mile.

Lewis comes in just shy of three deer per square mile, and Carter and Lawrence fall in between the highs and lows out of this bunch.

In this region, the top five counties all saw good increases in harvest over the previous year, a sign of the excellent 2006 season throughout Kentucky. They’ll likely top the 1,000 mark again this season, and perhaps be joined Morgan or Boyd counties, which narrowly missed the list last year. Both counties had takes well over 900 in 2006.

Counties in the Northeast Region continue to be generally managed under a four-deer season limit. In some cases, only two of those four may be taken with a firearm. This restriction cuts down on the number of antlerless deer being taken, given that most hunters are going to hold out to take their one buck with a gun.

In fact, a majority of hunters take only one deer anyway, often taking a doe late in the season when if no buck can be found.

Counties with some of the lowest harvests and densities in the region are Martin, Montgomery, Magoffin, Menifee and Floyd. Although deer are present, hunting these counties will be no doubt tougher. For their best chance of success, hunters in these counties will need to scout for pockets of higher deer numbers.

Generally, counties like these remain under a stricter management approach, trying to maximize herd growth in the shortest amount of time. During some periods of the season, that may mean no hunting of antlerless deer with a firearm, so be sure and check seasonal regulations for all the details.

BLUEGRASS REGION

During the 2006 deer season, both the Bluegrass and Green River regions placed 16 counties apiece in the 1,000-harvest club. But overall, the Bluegrass Region was responsible for adding about 3,000 more animals to the total statewide harvest than was the Green River Region. These two counties are tops in Kentucky for producing large numbers of white-tailed deer. Both contain the best habitat and receive the most hunting pressure, which adds up to higher harvests. Bluegrass Region hunters took more than 36,500 deer in their 31-county area of central and north-central Kentucky.

The Bluegrass Region is where hunters will find the most generally liberal gun-hunting season. A large number of counties open to a 16-day modern gun season, for either sex of deer the entire time.

Most counties also offer unlimited doe harvest – a reflection of how well a county’s herd is doing.

A majority of the counties (16, to be exact) on the top 20 deer-density list are located in the Bluegrass Region. Ironically, that region also carries some counties such as Bourbon, Fayette and Jessamine that lie right at the bottom of the list. They offer extremely limited habitat, compared to other more rural counties in this region.

Outside the top spot, Bluegrass Region counties occupy all the rest of the first 10 slots for highest numbers of deer per square mile. Statistics for Boone, Shelby, Owen and Gallatin counties are right at or above the 12-deer-per-square-mile mark, while Anderson, Campbell, Spencer, Henry and Pendleton all offer nine to 10 deer per square mile.

When I started trapping I went down to the local farm store, Cal Ranch to and Sportsmans Warehouse to see what traps were available to buy. There was not much of a selection and it was just a little corner of the store.

I didn’t have a clue what was a good trap or a better trap and why I should get one over the other. In this article, I will be presenting several coyote traps. Hopefully, you can find the best coyote trap for your needs.

The best and most popular coyote trap is the MB 550. It is big enough to hold coyotes and is one of the strongest leghold traps on the market. It comes ready to use out of the box.

Coyote Leghold or Foot Traps

MB 550 Coyote Trap

The MB 550 is at the top of my list for trapping coyotes. This trap was specifically designed to be the best trap on the market and other brands of traps have tried to copy its success making similar traps.

There are a few reasons why I think the MB550 is the best trap on the market.

• It is a cast jaw trap that keeps coyotes from bending the trap as easily.
• It comes ready to use out of the box. Just need to boil the trap to remove some scent.
• As I read through forums and trapping groups it appears to be the most recommended trap.
• It is a multi-animal trap and will hold coyotes, fox, and raccoons.
• See more information on the MB 550 trap (coming soon).

Where To Buy MB 550 Traps

MB 450 Coyote Trap

The reason the MB 450 is lower and in the second spot on the list is that it is a size one and a half trap. It is smaller than the MB 550 but don’t underestimate its power.

In most cases, the MB 450 would work for trapping coyotes and if I got a bunch of them I would not have an issue using them on coyotes, but they were not designed for coyotes.

So if I was trying to target smaller animals such as fox or raccoons and had a high possibility of catching coyotes I would consider the MB 450.

• It is a cast jaw trap that keeps coyotes from bending the trap as easily.
• It comes ready to use out of the box. Just need to boil the trap to remove some scent.
• We did a survey on the MB 450 and found that it was voted the best fox trap that workes well for coyotes. See the survey results here.
• It is a multi-animal trap and will hold coyotes, fox, and raccoons.
• See more information on the MB 450 trap.

Where To Buy MB 450 Traps

See All MB 450 Trap Prices on eBay

Duke 550-OS

The Duke 550-OS or offset jaw trap is the Duke version of the MB 550 trap. Duke came out with their 550 trap soon after Minnesota Brand traps came out with them.

These appear to be the budget cast jaw trap and probably will perform similarly to the other cast jaw traps listed above. Here are several reasons why they would be a good trap.

• Duke traps are usually cost less than the Minnesota Brand traps. Similar trap less money.
• It is a cast jaw trap that keeps coyotes from bending the trap as easily.
• This Trap is on my list to compare to the MB 550. I have heard several trappers recommend them and the price might seal this one as your choice.
• It is a multi-animal trap and will hold coyotes, fox, and bobcats.

Where To Buy Duke 550 Traps

Duke No. 2 Coil Spring Trap

The Duke No. 2 coil spring trap is an excellent starter trap. I started out using these and still use them when trapping. I found them at the local farm store and bought a bunch of them.

I went out to try my luck with them and they worked. It took a while but I finally caught a coyote and several raccoons in them. If you take care of them they are a good trap.

Some trappers will not use them simply because they are not cast jaw traps and they might bend a little occasionally when you catch a coyote. I haven’t had a huge problem with them and would recommend them for a new trapper.

• The Duke No. 2 traps are cheaper than the cast jaw traps. You may be able to get double the traps for the same price.
• They may be slightly less durable than the cast jaw traps but they will last if you take care of them.
• It is a multi-animal trap and will hold coyotes, fox, and raccoons.

Where To Buy Duke No. 2 Traps

Coyote Sets To Make With A Foothold Trap

There are several sets or ways you can bury a foothold trap and get a coyote to step on it. When you position and bait a trap for a coyote to get caught in you are making a set.

Knowing different ways to make sets is very helpful. Sets like a dirt hole set or a flat set are good options when trapping coyotes.

I wrote an article about a bunch of different coyote sets so that you have some options for different weather and locations. You can find that list of coyote sets and how to make them here.

Coyote Snare Trap

When snaring coyotes the brand of snares is not as important. Most people who are selling snares for coyotes are making very similar products.

Most snares are one-time use traps and will be bent out of shape by a coyote when they are caught. The cable is usually the only thing that breaks on a snare and the parts can be put on a new snare and used over and over.

The nice thing about snares though is they are faster to set up and are much cheaper than any of the other types of traps we will discuss. They are usually between one or two dollars if you buy them prebuilt.

If you make your own snares it can be way cheaper than that because you can buy the parts in bulk and build your own for less than a dollar.

• One type of snare is a cable restraint just catch the animal around the neck and hold it there until the trapper comes.
• Another type of snare is a nonrelaxing snare. This snare gets tighter and tighter as the animal pulls on the snare and dispatches the animal if caught.
• Snares are placed along coyote trails and will catch them as they move down the trail. Where these trails cross fence lines is often one of the best places to place a snare.
• It is a multi-animal trap and will hold coyotes, fox, and raccoons.

Where To Buy Coyote Snares and Cable Restraints

See All Coyote Snares On eBay

Coyote Live Trap or Cage Trap

The hardest trap to use is a cage trap or live trap. Coyotes don’t like going in them because they can see the cage. I have never tried to catch a coyote in a live trap so I think it would be a fun expierement.

I think you would be more likey to catch a fox, bobcat, skunk, or raccoon in a live trap than a coyote. This is a hard thing to do.

I checked on Youtube and tried to see how many people have actually caught a coyote in a live trap. I found two, one the coyote escaped and the other was a good catch. There are tons of other videos though of coyotes being caught in the other traps listed above.

The nice thing about a cage trap though is it is easier to transport and release the coyote. They can go in a truck or car very easily and can be released in a new location.

Coyote Live Trap Size

The recommended size of a live trap for a coyote is at minimum two feet tall, twelve inches wide, and three feet long. A coyote does not like being boxed in so bigger is better.

How To Trap A Coyote In A Live Trap

• This is a very big trap. Coyotes can be big animals and don’t usually like small places.
• You can pick a trap with a sliding door or a swinging door. Both will work very well.
• Covering the trap with sticks and brush will make the coyote feel more comfortable entering the trap. You may also cover the bottom before the trigger plate with dirt to help the coyote feel more comfortable.
• It is a multi-animal trap and will hold coyotes, fox, bobcats, and raccoons.

Where To Buy Coyote Live Traps

See Extra Large Live Traps On eBay

Quick Coyote Trapping Tips

• Check your trapping laws before you start trapping.
• Use gloves to hide your scent. Coyotes don’t like human scent on the trap.
• Bait, lure, and urine are all good to use at the trapping location.
• Check out my article on more coyote trapping tips and coyote trapping mistakes.

Hammered In The Mountains

By: Pedram Parvin (Western Hunter Magazine)

Most of us long time hunters have a set, or if we’re lucky enough, a bag of elk ivories that we have laying around that we have always wanted to do something memorable with, but never have. I found myself in this exact situation, when I came across Autumn Fahnholz of Hammered In The Mountains. I was amazed by her attention to detail and her ability to capture the essence of a hunt through her work. I reached out to Autumn to learn more about her story, her work, and her life experiences. Autumn shared with me how far her work has come, and how it all began as a devoted hunter.

With a background and bachelor’s degree in Biology, she expressed that finding a year-round position that she was passionate about in Salmon, Idaho was not easy to come across. Her life experiences from working with the Idaho Fish & Game taught her a lot and led her to learning western bright cut engraving from a local silversmith. That is where Autumn’s interest with silver and becoming a maker was immediately sparked.

She expressed to me that she knew from the very beginning that engraving wasn’t what she wanted to delve into, so she went her own way carving her own path. At the time she did not have a lot of money to her name. In fact, her first hammers, files, and pliers were purchased from the trading post in Salmon. They were well used and had a little rust on them, but that was not going to stop her from using them. While working random jobs with not much to do in the evenings during the cold and dark winters, she found herself sitting at a makeshift workbench in a little primitive cabin in the mountains. Autumn spent countless hours and nights trying to figure out how to solder, saw, forge, and stamp silver by hand, and there it was, Hammered In The Mountains was born.

Teaching herself this skillset came with wasted silver, failure, frustration, and more experimentation than she could begin to mention. However, when she would finally start to see the end result of what she had imagined, that moment of joy significantly outweighed all of the bad. Two years ago, Autumn took a big chance and decided she wanted to become a full-time silversmith. Although she knew it was the right decision, it was not an easy task with losing a steady income. Her husband, Benjamin, was behind her 100% of the way and paid the bills until she could get on her feet. Benjamin and his family own and operate Life-Like Taxidermy in Carmen, Idaho. Her husband, his dad, and his brother have entered in many taxidermy competitions over the years and in 2019 Benjamin brought home a Best in World Title with a pedestal antelope, and his brother Brandon, a 2nd Best in World Title with a life-size Mountain Lion.

Their passion and attention to detail with their clean and precise work when recreating animals is something she looks up to. She learned a lot from those guys when it comes to detailed work and strives to keep her work neat and clean just like them. The passion and tradition with hunting in the Fahnholz family is something that runs deep through their blood. While the guys at Life-Like Taxidermy are recreating animals from memorable hunts, she has also found a way to relive those memorable hunts with her very own skillset involving elk ivory. The Fahnholz name values family, tradition, and the stories that come from their times afield and strive to create things that will not only last a lifetime, but can be passed down to the next generation with a story behind it.

In life there are small moments that cannot be summed up by simply looking at the physical actions that have taken place. There are times when those actions hold a meaning deeper rooted into our souls, forged into our hearts and minds by the preparation, determination, hard work and faith we put forth. One instance that Autumn recalls took place deep in the wilderness on one of the most physically demanding hunts Benjamin and her had ever embarked on. After sealing the deal on potentially the bull of her lifetime with a perfect cross canyon shot, they made their way up to the huge bodied bull elk. Flooded with emotions that one can only feel after taking part in such an amazing hunt, Benjamin got down on one knee and asked her if she would spend the rest of her life with him. Some may have questioned the fact that he did not have a ring in hand, Autumn however, knew that the moment they shared on that mountain could be forever symbolized by creating something with that bull’s ivories. Where a person lacking in the ability to relate to and know such feelings might just see a tooth from an animal, she saw an opportunity to memorialize a life changing experience. She has since made him a ring and still has the other ivory she plans to use in a very special piece for herself. Benjamin and his brother, Brandon, still wear matching pendants from a bull hunt that they shared together years ago. For their family, there is no better way to symbolize the bonds and ties created in the mountains and woods.

Autumn’s true passion with Hammered In The Mountains is to turn those elk ivories into wearable memories. As an avid backcountry hunter herself, she knows the significance of each hunt and how those memories are so meaningful to us all. Her handcrafted, rugged, and creative hard work is an extension of your hunts and celebrations. Three custom pieces that she just finished up for the Western Hunter Magazine are a men’s elk ivory ring, a talisman, and a Benchmade Hidden Canyon knife inlay.

Hammered In The Mountains jewelry is sawed, soldered, forged, hammered, stamped, filed, sanded, and polished all by hand making each piece irreplaceable. Her work is meant to be used and worn, and people are always asking the stories behind these pieces, which gives you an opportunity to relive each of the amazing hunts and experiences all over again.

If you’re interested in a custom piece, give her a call (814-221-2408) as she would be happy to hear about your hunt and work with you to capture exactly what you are looking for. You can also see and choose from any of her previous elk ivory work on her website Hammeredinthemountains.com Autumn’s work is meticulously designed, ruggedly crafted, and handmade for hunters, by a hunter.

So you have your rifle but need a way to stabilize your rifle to make clean, accurate shots? Well, look no further than a rifle bipod! In this guide, we dive into the best rifle bipod for your setup and needs.

I’ll start with some of the market’s top bipod options and then see the best options for different applications.

Caldwell XLA Pivot

The Caldwell XLA pivot bipod is a compact, lightweight aluminum bipod made for bolt action rifles and AR-15 style rifles.

The XLA pivot is a budget bipod but not a low-quality bipod.

The legs of the bipod are made of aluminum and the other parts are steel.

This bipod has two external springs that allow the legs to flip down and be resecured in the up position to make moving with the bipod easier.

Javelin Spartan Lite

The Javelin Spartan Lite is an extremely simple bipod made by Spartan Precision Equipment.

The Javelin Spartan Lite is a three-piece system that allows you to remove the legs of the bipod via a screw-on and off-based system to achieve your preferred length.

The Javelin Spartan Lite is very accurately named: it’s lite. The short-leg version is only 4.6 ounces.

The disadvantage to the Javelin system is the legs are fixed height.

The attachment system for the Javelin is supplied with a classic rifle adapter kit, which uses the sling stud that is included on most rifles.

The Javelin provides a great deal of stability since the legs are fixed height and stationery.

Harris Series Bipod

The Harris Bipod is probably one of the most well-known rifle bipods on the market. In fact, when you ask someone what bipod you should buy they are likely to recommend to you a Harris Series bipod.

The Harris bipods have earned their stripes and are extremely well known. The Harris excels at what it is for its price point. Sitting right around the $100 range, it is affordable and feature-packed.

The Harris bipod has several ways to attach it to a rifle, including a QD mount system.

One thing to note about the Harris series is the two external springs that function the same way the Caldwell bipods do. The springs all for retraction and deployment of the bipods.

This made for the perfect pairing with my Thompson Center Compass.

Magpul Rifle Bipod

The Magpul rifle bipod is my go-to bipod on my Ruger American Hunter rifle. I love this bipod, but it does have some drawbacks.

The price of the Magpul bipod is in line with other mid-tier rifle bipods. At around the $100 mark, it is incredibly competitive.

Magpul is known for its polymer products, so it’s not a huge shock that the Magpul bipod has a substantial amount of polymer in the design.

They even have a MOE version that is entirely polymer. I’ll talk about that next.

The Magpul bipod is highly compact and uses a button deployment system to allow you to adjust the height of the bipod legs.

While the Magpul bipod isn’t the lightest of the list it is the lightest with its features.

Magpul MOE Bipod

The Magpul MOE bipod is the all-polymer version of the Magpul Rifle Bipod. You may ask, why would I want a polymer bipod?

Two main things: weight and price.

The price of the polymer bipod is $74.95, which is $30-40 cheaper than its metal counterpart.

While it still provides many of the same features, the polymer is not as strong (some say sturdy) as metal.

What it loses in strength, it gains in weight reduction. The MOE bipod is only 8 ounces.

Warne Precision Bipod

Warne Precision is at the higher end of this list but is feature-packed and high-quality.

This bipod is nice because it can be adjusted from the shooting position and has rapid leg deployment and no external springs.

The Warne bipod is excellent for nearing any application from hunting to competition, and everything in between brings excellent stability.

With that stability comes a pretty sizeable cost. At $335, it isn’t a cheap option but very likely the best option for features.

Accu Shot Atlas Bipod

B&T Industries makes the Accu Shot one of the most popular high-end bipods, with everyone from recreational hunters to tier 1 military units using it.

It would be considered the current gold standard of weapon bipods.

ACCU-TAC BR-4

The ACCU-TAC BR-4 is one of the best-looking and feature-packed bi-pods on the market today.

Don’t get this confused with the Accu-Shot; they are entirely different companies.

The Accu-Tac will run on the high end of the price points for rifle bi-pods, but you get many features and an extremely high-quality design.

Adjusting the Accu-Tac Bi-Pod

The Accu-Tac B4 is easily adjusted for height and uneven surfaces. The legs are extremely easy to deploy you simply pull out and set them to the angle that works best.

You can then adjust the up-and-down height of the bi-pod by pulling down on the bottom of the Accu-Tac legs. To retract the legs, press the adjustment button on the side of the bipod.

This design is incredibly simple and one of my favorite bipod designs. It’s sturdy and easy to use.

Attaching the Accu-Tac Bi-Pod

The Accu-Tac BR-4 Bi-Pod attaches via a Picatinny rail attachment that can be adjusted easily and is on a QD mount system.

The QD mount makes it easy to attach and detach your bi-pod if you need it removed. This bi-pod does store well, but if you want to cut down the overall weight of your gun, you may want to remove it for certain applications.

In my opinion, the Accu-Tac BR-4 is one of the best rifle bipods on the mark!

MDT GRND-POD

The MDT GRND-POD bipod is a cutting-edge accessory designed to enhance the stability and accuracy of rifles, making it a favored choice among avid marksmen and professional shooters.

Crafted with precision engineering and high-quality materials, this bipod offers exceptional performance in a variety of shooting conditions.

Its versatility is a standout feature, as it provides both fixed and pivoting modes, allowing shooters to adapt to different shooting scenarios quickly.

Whether you’re in a prone position or shooting from a bench, the MDT GRND-POD delivers unmatched stability, ensuring consistent shot placement.

One of the standout features of the MDT GRND-POD is its robust construction.

It is built to withstand the rigors of the field and can endure harsh environmental conditions.

The bipod’s legs are adjustable, allowing for precise height customization to accommodate various shooting situations and terrains.

Quick and effortless deployment is possible thanks to its user-friendly design, ensuring shooters spend less time setting up and more time focusing on their targets.

With the MDT GRND-POD bipod, shooters can significantly improve their shooting accuracy, making it an indispensable tool for those who demand peak performance from their rifles.

How to Choose a Rifle Bipod

Choosing the best rifle bipod for your rifle is a crucial decision that can significantly impact your shooting experience and accuracy.

With numerous options available on the market, it’s essential to consider several key factors to make an informed choice.

1. Bipod Type: There are primarily two types of bipods: fixed and pivoting. Fixed bipods offer stability but limited flexibility in target tracking. Pivoting bipods provide the ability to pan and tilt, allowing for smoother tracking of moving targets. Consider your shooting style and the types of situations you’ll encounter when choosing between these two types.
2. Height Adjustment: Look for a bipod with adjustable leg height. This feature allows you to adapt to various terrains and shooting positions, such as prone, sitting, or bench shooting. Telescoping legs or quick-release mechanisms are beneficial for easy and quick height adjustments.
3. Build Quality: Invest in a bipod made from durable materials like aluminum or steel. Quality construction ensures longevity and reliability, even in rugged conditions. Weather-resistant coatings can also protect your bipod from the elements.
4. Attachment Method: Consider how the bipod attaches to your rifle. Picatinny rail or swivel stud mounts are common options. Ensure compatibility with your rifle’s attachment points.
5. Leg Design: The shape and design of the bipod legs can affect stability. Some bipods feature wider, non-slip rubber feet or spiked feet for better grip on various surfaces.
6. Weight: The weight of your bipod can impact portability. For hunting or long-distance shooting, a lightweight option might be preferable. However, for benchrest shooting or precision shooting, a heavier, more stable bipod may be ideal.
7. Price: Quality bipods come in a range of prices. While it’s tempting to opt for the most budget-friendly option, investing in a reputable brand and model often pays off in terms of durability and performance.
8. User-Friendliness: Look for features that enhance ease of use, such as quick-deploy legs or one-handed adjustments. These can be especially handy in fast-paced shooting situations.
9. Reviews and Recommendations: Seek out reviews from experienced shooters and consider their recommendations. Online forums and user reviews can provide valuable insights into the performance and reliability of specific bipods.
10. Brand Reputation: Well-known brands in the shooting industry often have a track record of producing quality accessories. Research the reputation of the brand you’re considering to ensure you’re getting a reliable product.

Ultimately, the choice of a bipod for your rifle should align with your shooting needs and preferences.

Taking the time to evaluate these factors will help you select a bipod that enhances your shooting experience and improves your accuracy in the field or at the range.

Hunting Rifle Bipods

Nearly any bipod can be a hunting bipod but to drill down and find the best hunting rifle bipod you need to know what type of hunting you’ll be doing.

For example, if you are hunting from a tree stand or climbing stand,rr a bipod either doesn’t make much sense or will need to be very specific to your needs since there typically isn’t much to rest your bipod legs on in a climbing stand.

In short, determining what will work as the best rifle bipod for hunting will largely depend on how you plan to hunt.

Best Budget Bipod Rifle

My best budget bipod recommendation will likely come as no surprise as this company has a long-standing reputation.

The Magpul MOE bipod takes the budget best rifle bipod category handily. With its $75 price tag and solid performance, it takes the gold on budget and quality.

Best Rifle Bipod for Long Range Shooting

The Harris series of bipods are the most popular among professional shooters; having over 45% of the professional shooting market, they are #1 for long-range shooting.

While they may not be the best or the most expensive, they are certainly the most popular when it comes to the best rifle bipod.

The most comfortable tree stands will mean you can sit for an all-day hunt without worrying about cramps, aches, pains etc.

But it’s not just about avoiding discomfort for the sake of it. (Any hunter worth their salt is willing to endure a little bit of pain to achieve success). But discomfort in a tree stand means you are more likely to shift about.

Every time you shift about, you risk giving away your position.

And so a comfortable tree stand (be it a climber, a hang on, or a ladder stand) has a practical purpose in addition to providing for our creature comforts.

The most comfortable tree stands we could find are detailed below. But if you want the top level summary:

• Millenium are widely considered to make the most comfortable hang on tree stands. The M100U is their most popular model (you can pick one up at Cabelas or Black Ovis or Amazon).
• The most comfortable climbing tree stand is generally thought to be the Summit Viper SD (also available at Cabelas or Amazon).
• The most comfortable ladder stand is almost certainly the Hawk Big Denali 1.5 (available at Sportsman’s Guide and Cabelas).

Most Comfortable Hang On Tree Stand – Millennium M100U

The Millennium M100 Ultralite is widely regarded as one of the most comfortable tree stands full stop (that’s out of all tree stands, not just lock ons).

The seat is 22″ x 17″ with 17″ of height. It’s a contoured “sling” design that uses Millenium’s patented ComfortMAX technology. Not exactly sure what that is but it is certainly comfy (and most hunters who’ve sat in one will attest to that fact)!

It’s got a sizeable platform at 20″ x 38″ (which is around 5.25 square feet). It’s not the biggest platform you can find with a hang on stand but there’s plenty of room to manoeuvre into position to take a shot.

Consider adding an M105 Footrest from Millennium to pimp out your stand, even more, taking your comfort to the next level.

The Millennium M100 is the most comfortable hang on tree stand, so if you like to post in your perch for hours at a time, this is the stand for you. Just be prepared that you might doze off!

Availability

The Millenium M100 Ultralite should be available from the following stores:

• Check princes at Amazon >>
• Check princes at Black Ovis >>
• Check princes at Scheels >>
• Check princes at Dick’s Sporting Goods >>

Another Comfortable Lock On Stand – Millenium M150 Monster

The Millennium M150 is one of the biggest hang on stands you can find. It’s a bit harder to hang than the M100, but that extra room and the adjustability of the seat makes it one of the best tree stands for big guys.

The 20″x17″ seat is adjustable between 16″ and 20″ from the platform. The platform is a massive 37″ x 24″. It’s rated for 300lbs and weighs a surprising 19.5lbs.

Millennium’s M150 is hard to beat. It is spacious, comfortable, and suitable for use on almost any tree, even if it’s leaning at a bit of an angle (up to 15 degrees). And if you want even more comfort, consider purchasing a footrest.

Availability

The Millenium M150 should be available from the following stores:

• Check prices on Amazon >>
• Check prices at Cabelas >>
• Check prices at Scheels >>

Most Comfortable Climbing Tree Stand – Summit Viper SD

The Summit Viper SD is hands down the most comfortable climbing tree stand you can buy today. It’s fairly lightweight, coming in at 20lbs. It’s rated for 300lbs. The 20″ x 36″ platform is a decent enough size. And the 18″ x 12″ x 20″ seat is so comfy you may just nod off.

The Viper SD also has a front rail made from aluminum that works great to support rifles, though not as much for bow hunters. The aluminum frame is constructed using DeadMetal, a sound deadening technology that reduces noise from the climbing tree stand to prevent making animals aware of your presence.

According to customers, this is a rock-sturdy stand that grips well on to abrasive tree stems such as pine and oak, but it tends to slide a little on sleek, wet surfaces. Another thing users praise is that the tree stand is very portable due to its relatively small seat, but the downfall with this is that larger people might struggle to fit onto the seat and the platform.

If you’re looking for the most comfortable climbing tree stand, the Viper SD is where it’s at. It features a seat, backrest, and armrests fully padded with foam and comfortable backpack straps, making it super portable and easy to carry. For larger people, it might be a little tight, but that’s where the Summit Goliath SD comes in…!

Availability

The Summit Viper SD seems to have good availability in a bunch of online stores. At the time of writing you could find them in the following places:

• Check prices at Amazon >>
• Check prices at Field & Stream >>
• Check prices at Cabelas >>
• Check prices at Walmart >>
• Check prices at Dick’s Sporting Goods >>
• Check prices at Scheels >>

Most Comfortable Ladder Stand

Hawk Hunting have been supplying the hunting community for over 50 years, during which time they’ve been at the forefront of hunting technology. It’s perhaps little wonder, then, that their ladder stands are widely considered to be the most comfortable tree stands a hunter can sit in.

They sell three tree stands: the Bighorn, the Sasquatch and the Big Denali. You can takes your pick as far as comfort goes, because the seat designs are approximately the same. But it’s the Big Denali 1.5 and the Big Denali 2-Man that we’re going to discuss here.

The Big Denali has everything you could possibly need from a tree stand in terms of comfort. The padded armrests feel almost like a couch, as does the seat itself. The flip-out footrest also does its part in keeping your feet and legs from getting cramp.

And if you’re hunting with a rifle, the adjustable shooting rail means you can get into position quickly, quietly and without hunching or stretching.

Availability

The Hawk Big Denali 1.5 should be available from the following stores:

The Hawk Big Denali 2 should be available from the following stores:

• Check prices at Cabelas >>
• Check prices on Amazon >>
• Check prices at Walmart >>

Another Comfortable Ladder Stand – Bolderton Outlander 360

The really awesome thing about the Bolderton Outlander 360 is the massive platform and the swivel seat. So in addition to being supremely comfortable you have a massive field of vision.

It’s a 19′ ladder stand. Its comfortable mesh seat is on a huge, hexagonal platform that gives you a lot of room to stretch. And it has a bunch of built-in camouflage blind panels to keep you concealed.

It’s an absolute beast to put up (and will probably require you to bribe a couple of buddies with some beer to help you). But once it’s up the swivel chair is so comfortable you could just as easily be in the office.

Availability

The Bolderton Outlander 360 should be available from the following stores:

• Sportsman’s Guide >>
• Amazon >>

Conclusion

Whether you’re looking for a hang on stand, a climbing stand or a ladder stand, comfort is probably the most important thing to most people after they’re comfortable that the kit is as silent as possible.

The hunting community are pretty much as one voice on the most comfortable tree stands:

For a comfortable ladder stand go with Hawk Big Denali 1.5.

For the most comfortable lock on stands go with a Millenium from their M-Series (like the Millenium M100U or the M150).

And for the most comfortable climbing tree stands, it’s Summit every time, specifically the Summit Viper SD.

Related Articles: feel free to check out more tree stand recommendations including the best ladder stands, the best hang on stands and the best climbing tree stands.

FAQs

What Is the Most Comfortable Climbing Tree Stand?

The most comfortable climbing tree stand is ultimately a matter of personal preference. However, we reckon the most comfortable climber (and we’re not alone) is the Summit Viper SD…

Introduction

I may certainly be biased in my thinking, but I think that first focal plane riflescopes are perhaps the best development of the last couple decades. Sure they existed before then, but they have only become prevalent to the general shooting public over the last ten or fifteen years. Before we get too deep into the subject, lets make sure we both understand what this subject is about. So we are on the same plane so to speak.

Focal Planes

No, I’m not talking about an aluminum lifting body flying through the atmosphere, I’m talking about a point of focus used in your shooting. When you look through a scope and see the magnified image of the target, you are looking through several lenses inside the scope. A first focal plane scope (often called a front focal plane) has the reticle placed effectively before the magnification.

A second focal plane riflescope as you might imagine has the reticle placed after the magnification feature of the scope. These two different construction techniques allow for two differing functions. Most of us have likely used the more traditional second focal plane scope. When the magnification ring is turned and the scope zooms in or out, the reticle remains unchanged. For most of the past, with simple duplex or crosshair reticles, this wasn’t a big deal as the only relevant point on the reticle was the tiny intersecting point at the middle.

As reticle technology has grown over the years, additional points (subtensions) of hold have been added to our reticles. These additional reticle markings are for measuring hits and misses as well as holding wind corrections and holdovers. This is only relevant to the discussion in that the values of these additional points can change when used in a second focal plane optic. In a first focal plane scope, the reticle is magnified with the image. As the scope zooms in, both the target and the reticle increase in perceived size. The advantage to this lens configuration is that the reticle values stay the same regardless of what magnification the scope is set to. Second focal plane reticles typically register full value when they are at their maximum magnification.

Which is Better for long-range?

Despite a revolutionary change towards front focal plane scopes, one is not necessarily better than the other. Its simply based on the user’s preference or purpose. Both types of riflescopes have their pros and cons, so better is not the way to look at it. For example, if you are shooting extreme long range (ELR) competitions then you likely would prefer the finer size of a second focal plane reticle on a target that is three-thousand yards away. And on the other hand, if you are shooting a PRS Match where you have to quickly call your own shots and make corrections at varying ranges it helps to have your subtensions uniform regardless of magnification setting. So while some folks will try to convince you that one is better, keep in mind what you plan to do with the scope.

Pros and Cons

To help you better make a choice between these two scope configurations, I’ll discuss a few of the pros and cons of either selection. First focal plane scopes as I mentioned keep the reticle values intact regardless of what magnification setting you use, this comes at an additional expense. Many manufacturers offer near identical scopes in both FFP and SFP, with the latter being the more affordable option. If reticle usage isn’t part of your routine then this may not be a justified expense. Whereas if you use reticles frequently, it is well worth the added cost.

As I mentioned above, reticle thickness can be a downside to FFP scopes depending on the reticle design. As the reticle increases in size with magnification it can obscure the target or aiming point. Second focal plane scopes don’t have this issue as the reticle is always the same size. They also don’t become so fine as to become illegible at lower power. If you have poor eyesight or other issues related to reticle size, you may be better off with a SFP scope.

If you are looking for a very high magnification optic like a 5-50X, you will find that nearly all of them are SFP, their reticles would otherwise disappear at low power, or cover up a truck at maximum power. If you do use your reticle for measuring hits, misses, and range features with a second focal plane reticle, you may need to refresh your math skills. Using a SFP reticle to measure things at any magnification besides its calibrated setting will require you to calculate the actual value based off the magnification setting and the measurement with the reticle. Some people like math but they should not be trusted.

Shop all riflescopes at Euro Optic

Scopelist Also has a great selection of riflescopes

And maybe if you’re looking for something cheaper, shop at Palmetto

Conclusion

There is no wrong or right answer when it comes to focal planes, there is only an evaluation of their applications. Things such as engagement distances and moving targets should surely be considered when deciding which way to go. I have fully embraced the FFP revolution that has occurred these past years, and I think the huge increase in FFP market share tells that I am not alone. The rapid expansion of long-range shooting and related competition has likely driven the trend.

Whether you are a competitive shooter, a military or law enforcement sniper, or just a redneck hunter with serious intentions, the FFP scopes of today can give you an edge that shooters of the past would lust after. But that’s not to say SFP scopes are inferior, as the brilliant shooters of the past have shown us.

-CBM

Processing Squirrel Meat

Squirrel hunting can produce a substantial amount of extra meat for your dinner table, but once you have a squirrel in hand…how do you process it? Processing squirrel meat is a pretty simple process that requires just a little time and a sharp knife. As with anything that has been around as long as the processing wild game, there are several ways one can complete the task. For simplicity purposes we will examine just one, the one I use and find to be the simplest.

Before we begin processing the squirrel I’m going to assume a few things.

1. The squirrel has previously been skinned (field dressed) and all organs have been removed.
2. The feet on all legs, head and tail have been removed. If these are not completed, please do so before moving on.

If you were using a shotgun to get the squirrels, search the outer parts of the meat for pellets. There is nothing worse than chipping a tooth over dinner. Also, if the meat is bruised due to pellet or bullet penetration you may want to consider soaking the squirrel for a few hours (or overnight) in a solution of salt water. This usually “draws out” the bruising in the meat considerably well.

How to Process Squirrel Meat

Let’s begin:

Front Legs:

Cut from underneath the front leg (armpit area) in an upward motion severing the leg from the body. The socket where the front legs meet the shoulder isn’t very strong and should slice through rather easily. Repeat for other front leg.

Rear Legs:

Cut along the spine (tailbone) until you are able to “bend” the entire leg downward, breaking the socket loose, to remove the leg. Repeat for the other rear leg.

Another thing to do with the rear legs is to remove the small pocket of fatty tissue that is hidden below the surface of the meat, behind the knee. Slide the knife into the meat just enough to puncture it and dig the fatty tissue out. It isn’t a requirement to remove this but most people do so. Leaving it will not adversely affect the taste of the meat.

Torso:

Remove the “flappy skin” that covered the organ casing (belly meat) if you like. Some people choose to trip this meat from the rib cage down to the hip area while others keep it for the small amount of extra meat value. The choice is yours. I usually trim it if I’m going to fry the squirrel but if I use it for a stew or pull the meat from the bone, I’ll leave it attached.

Cut upward just below the bottom rib until you make contact with the backbone. Repeat for the opposite side. Grip the rib cage in one hand and the remaining bottom section in the other and twist. This will break the rib cage free for discarding (there is hardly any usable meat there). This will leave the area from just below the rib cage to the tailbone. Along the back is the loin area and can be cooked along with the legs.

Final

Lastly, remove the lower section of the tailbone (from the back section mentioned above) where no meat is present and discard the tailbone. You will now have all four legs and the back meat section to use for cooking, grilling or stews.

Note: Some people choose to soak the meat overnight in salt water or buttermilk. Some claim that this takes the “gamey” flavor out of the meat. I’ve tried this and do not notice a difference in taste. Plus, if you have an aversion to the flavor of squirrel…I have to ask…what are you doing reading this anyway?

Watch the video tutorial below:

How to preserve a squirrel hide

Preserving a squirrel hide acquired during squirrel hunting can be a fun activity for any young hunter. It can enable them to save their first squirrel or to learn about hiding preservation. Of course you have many other reasons to want to preserve a squirrel hide but before we begin, I must note that “preserving” a hide is different than “tanning” a hide. While Tanning leaves the hide soft and pliable, preserving it usually yields a much stiffer product. This stiffer product may not be as desirable, but with the only required chemical being table salt…many people prefer this method.

If you have a leftover hide from field dressing a previous squirrel, that will work fine but personally I like to get a better looking pelt by skinning it so that I have a much more complete and less damaged hide. Keep this in mind before skinning your squirrel, they way you clean it will determine how intact the hide will be.

Here’s what you’ll need:

• Sharp knife
• Large flat working surface or a sheet of plywood
• Denatured alcohol
• Non-iodized salt

Instructions:

1. Begin by slicing along the underside of the squirrel, from the chin to the anus. You only need to get under the skin so do not stick the knife in far or you risk opening the body cavity. The goal is to remove the skin, not disembowel the squirrel.
2. Once you have exposed much of the underside meat from the skin, work the skin free slowly and gently. It’s recommended to go ahead and remove the feet so that the legs can be pulled free of the skin. Leaving the feet attached risks allowing rot to take over and ruin your hide.
3. Split the underside of the tail slowly as you work out the tail. It’s difficult to get it 100{6eed75c7f8c195edd1162272d31c56c9d78bf8d95bfa341f234a4c2acf0cac3e} removed so if you are unable, stop at a reasonable spot and snap it off.
4. If you decide you want to keep the head on your hide you’re taking on the more difficult part of the skinning process. But with a little patient, you can do it. I choose to remove the head from the body (but not severed from the hide) and save this part for last, slowly work back the skin with your knife. Next, use a staple gun, tacks, small nails, etc to hold the hide open. I recommend taking it to a piece of plywood. Try to keep it on the very edge of the hide.
5. Add a generous amount of non-iodized salt to the hide, others have stated that regular table salt (with iodine in it works fine but I have not tested it). Be sure to get around the edges and make sure there are not any folds in the skin where the salt cannot reach. Work the salt into the head and tail.As you salt, remember this: Any unsalted spot is not protected and will rot!In a day or two the salt will become saturated or crusty with the moisture it has drawn out of the flesh. Scrape away the old salt and reapply a second generous layer. Allow the second layer of salt to remain for about ten to fourteen days.
6. To finish off the process, remove the salt and scrape away anything still remaining on the skin. Apply a small layer of Neatsfoot oil or other leather conditioner to give your pet some pliability. Allow it to absorb for a few hours then add another layer.

How to preserve a squirrel tail

Every hunter (squirrel hunters included) enjoys showing off their hunting prowess. Deer hunters often have a head or antlers mounted, fishermen sometimes have a nice size fish preserved and mounted on their wall. Squirrel hunters usually don’t have their squirrels taxidermied but often enough, we like to keep the tails so in this article we will see a simple way to preserve a squirrel tail.

When keeping tails as a record of your successful hunts there really isn’t too much involved in the preservation process. With some non-iodized salt, you can start collecting your squirrel tails as well.

Instructions:

1. Start with a pair of pliers and remove the bone. You can also try slicing down the tail to remove the bone but the pliers often remove it completely, reducing the chance of it rotting.
2. Once the bone has been removed, pour a generous amount of salt on the fleshy part of the tail (the inside). This is best done as soon as the bone is removed as some of the inside skin is exposed.
3. Turn it right-side-in again and pour some additional salt into it. Let this sit (on a flat surface) for at least 24 hours.
4. After 24 hours, wipe or scrape away the old salt and reapply another generous layer. Place it on a flat surface to dry for another couple days and the tail should stay preserved for many years.

How to Tan a Squirrel Hide

Squirrel hunting can provide many squirrel hides that can be turned into durable leather or made into nice decorative pieces in just a few simple steps. We will examine how to tan a squirrel hide in a simple and effective manner.

Squirrel pelts were traditionally used as a durable leather that had many uses, such as being sewn into patterns to make coats and other articles of clothing to keep our ancestors warm. Even though you can run down to the local Walmart store and buy a coat eliminating the NEED to tan a hide, the process of tanning a hide can still be an interesting and entertaining activity, even if it’s just done for fun.

Here’s What You’ll Need:

• 5-gallon bucket
• Salt
• Dull knife
• Alum (tanning chemical, short for Aluminum) can be purchased many places, including Amazon.com. Do a quick Google search for a place that carries it near you.
• Hide from a squirrel
• Neat’s Foot Oil (purchased at any leather shop)

Instructions:

1. Prepare the pelt by scraping away as much visible meat and fleshy tissue as possible from the hairless underside of the hide. A dull knife is recommended, as it will scrape the hide without slicing through.
2. In a 5 gallon bucket, prepare a solution of salt water: 5 cups of salt to 1 gallon. Submerge the hide in the salt solution for a minimum of 24 hours. Remove and scrape away any remaining flesh and membrane that has come loose during the soaking process.
3. To prepare your tanning solution, begin with 2 lbs. of salt mixed into 4 gallons of water. You can reuse the same bucket as before. Stir it to dissolve the salt completely. In a separate container, mix 2 lbs. of alum in just enough water to dissolve and mix thoroughly. Add this to the salt mixture.
4. Place the scraped pelt into the tanning solution. Allow it to sit for 24 hours and stir it a minimum of two times during the tanning process.
5. Remove from the solution and rinse the entire pelt under clear running water. Hang the pelt outside with the fur side up, over a clothesline or railing out of direct sunlight. Let it hang for several days.
6. Rub the hide, back and forth, over a straight edge to soften the leather. A patio railings will work well for this process.
7. Work Neat’s Foot or other leather lubricants into the underside (leather) with your fingers to insure the tanned hide becomes both soft and pliable. Use a dog brush or other comb to work out any mats or tangles on the fur side of the hide.

Now you have your very own squirrel pelt. A set of them placed over the arms of your couch looks great!

Things to note:

1. The chemicals, salt and alum, are non-toxic to humans but should NOT be digested. Wear gloves and wash hands frequently. As always, you should read the product label before using any chemical.
2. This method can be used to tan almost any type of animal hide. Increase times and amounts of tanning solution for larger hides.
3. Squirrel hides can be frozen in the freezer until ready to tan if you choose to tan several at the same time.
4. Alum can usually be purchased at any pharmacy or drug store.
5. The tanned hide is NOT WATERPROOF. Exposing it to water can cause hair to fall out or the hide to stiffen. However this method is still good for preserving hides.

Roy Weatherby was a visionary in the firearms industry. From his early experiments with ultra-velocity rounds to the development of his supremely safe action and his early adoption of polymer stocks, Weatherby was always at the leading edge of hunting rifle innovation. He was also a brilliant marketer. I still recall the images of a tree blown into so many matchsticks by a single .300 Wby. round and Roy palling around with famous actors like John Wayne and Roy Rogers.

Dressed in fancy Monte Carlo stocks and chambered for hard-hitting magnums, the Weatherby Mark V became the “it” hunting rifle of the mid-20th century. But all that fancy walnut came at a price, one many hunters simply couldn’t afford.

Roy Weatherby understood the need for a workingman’s Mark V, and in 1970 the company announced the Vanguard. Vanguard rifles were—and are—built on Japanese Howa push-feed actions. At the time of their inception, they rivaled popular rifles like the Remington 700 and Winchester Model 70, and Vanguard guns remain a popular option for big game hunters.

Recently, the bolt-action rifle market has been flooded with inexpensive, sometimes coarsely built, budget rifles that provide good accuracy but lackluster aesthetics. But Vanguard rifles have always been a step above those basic entry-level guns, combining solid construction with modern good looks at a price that the working hunter can afford.

As of this writing, there are 19 different Vanguard models currently available, ranging from .22-250 to .375 H&H Mag. There are Vanguards for smaller-statured shooters on up to rifles meant for dangerous game. There are Vanguards with wood stocks and synthetic stocks and package deals that include a Leupold 3-9x40mm scope. Suggested retail prices range from the mid-$500 mark up to $1,149.

“While originally launched in only a few configurations, the Weatherby Vanguard now boasts value-added features such as Cerakoting, barrel fluting, custom stock painting, barrel threading and custom floorplates,” said Adam Weatherby, Roy’s grandson and Weatherby’s current CEO. “Although the barreled action is still manufactured in Japan, these new features are all applied at our new facility in Sheridan, Wyoming.”

Over the years I’ve tested or hunted with seven different Vanguard models and have been impressed with every one of them. Vanguard rifles feature sub-m.o.a. accuracy and are backed with an accuracy guarantee—one of the first rifles at this price point to offer such a guarantee. A Vanguard Backcountry in .257 Wby. Mag. I once tested produced average groups around a half-inch with two different Weatherby loads, and I regret not buying that gun when I had the chance.

The newest member of the Vanguard family is the High Country model. As the name suggests, the High Country is designed to be light enough to carry on big game hunts at high elevations where the oxygen is thin and every ounce of rifle weight is a burden. The High Country I tested in 6.5 Creedmoor weighed just 7.15 pounds with its 24-inch fluted barrel.

The cold-hammer-forged barrel is finished in flat dark earth Cerakote for corrosion resistance, and it’s threaded 1/2×28. It comes with Weatherby’s Accubrake ST muzzle brake, which adds two inches to the barrel, as well as a seamless thread protector. The barreled action is free-floated and incorporates an integral recoil lug.

The synthetic stock features Weatherby’s trademark Monte Carlo comb. It’s black with green and tan sponge-paint accents, and the stock is equipped with textured grip panels and a right-hand palm swell. I’m a fan of the grip angle, which puts my shooting hand in the correct position.

High Country rifles are available in nine chamberings—five standard rounds and four magnums. Standard cartridges, including the 6.5 PRC, have 24-inch barrels while magnum chamberings sport 26-inch barrels and weigh a couple ounces more. The Vanguard High Country rifle carries a suggested retail price of $949, which places it in competition with Browning’s X-Bolt Composite Stalker ($910) and Bergara’s B-14 Wilderness Ridge ($975).

All Vanguard guns share the same push-feed bolt action with a small claw extractor and plunger ejector. Like the Mark V, the Vanguard rifles come with three gas ports in the one-piece machined bolt, as well as a fully enclosed bolt shroud, to help prevent injury in the event of a case failure. The bolt body is fluted to shave weight.

The Vanguard High Country is easy to top-load through the generous ejection port. Unlike some bolt-action hunting rifles that are finicky about loading and feeding, the Vanguard isn’t. A floorplate release is recessed into the front of the trigger guard. The release on my gun was a bit tight, but that’s not a bad thing, as the odds of an inadvertent mag dump are exceedingly low.

All current Vanguard rifles are equipped with a two-stage trigger. That has resulted in some shooters mistakenly calling Vanguard triggers “creepy,” but the take-up is intentional and acts as a safety mechanism without employing a blade. Initial take-up is smooth and light, and after that it it requires minimal finger pressure to drop the sear.

Weatherby Vanguard triggers average between two and four pounds, and they are user adjustable. The one on my sample averaged 3.4 pounds for 10 pulls on a Wheeler gauge.

The three-position safety is the rocker-type design and is easy to manipulate. In the rearward position the trigger is deactivated and the bolt is locked. In the middle position the bolt can be manipulated with the safety engaged. Pressing the safety rocker forward allows the gun to be fired.

I like three-position safeties because the bolt can be locked when walking so that brush and limbs don’t inadvertently open the action and the rifle can be loaded and unloaded with the safety engaged. Weatherby safeties can also be manipulated silently so if you suddenly find yourself close to game, the metallic “snick” of the rifle’s safety won’t catch the animal’s attention.

The bolt stop is located on the left rear side of the receiver, and it’s easy to operate. A small cocking indicator tab that extends under the rear bolt shroud lets you know the gun’s condition.

The High Country is drilled and tapped to accept Weatherby Vanguard/Remington 700 bases, which simplifies scope mounting. I topped the High Country with a Crimson Trace 4-16×42 Brushline Pro riflescope with BDC reticle. The Monte Carlo stock placed my eye in correct position behind the optic.

4-16×42 Brushline Pro: Check Price & Buy Now

I tested the High Country at the range with three different 6.5 Creedmoor loads. All three produced at least one three-shot group under an inch at 100 yards, and the best group of the day measured just 0.44 inch. A tack-driver, in other words, and well in line with the rifle’s guarantee for sub-m.o.a. accuracy.

The 6.5 Creedmoor produces mild recoil, which is one of its benefits, but having the removable Accubrake ST is a nice touch—and will be very much appreciated on the .300 Wby. Mag. version of the gun. This relatively new brake from Weatherby promises recoil reduction of up to 53 percent. All Vanguard rifles handle recoil well, and the dense black Vanguard recoil pad does a good job of absorbing kick.

In addition to range testing, I also got to use the Vanguard while hunting hogs and deer at a field-to-table event in Texas, and the High Country had no issues gathering meat. My first shot came when an old, heavy whitetail buck followed a group of does out of the oaks during late afternoon. A doe at the edge of the oaks caught the old buck’s attention, and he trotted away from the harem into the cover of the trees.

At any moment the buck might disappear from view, and since it’s difficult to have a field-to-table event without meat, I decided to try to make a shot on the deer before he vanished into the deep woods. There was a narrow window between two oak trunks through which I would have to weave the bullet, but I had confidence in the High Country rifle and took the shot. The buck was quartering away, and after the rifle cracked, I heard the thwop of the 129-grain Hornady bullet. The buck dropped.

The next shot came the following morning when I spooked a group of hogs at a feeder. My guide Ray and I had crept into a position on a hill overlooking the feeders and the hogs scattered. Because we wanted a pig for the table, I chose a small sow, and as she ran through the broken brush I led her by a half-body length and touched off the Weatherby. The same distinct bullet slap echoed up the canyon, and we found the hog 30 yards from where she had been when the bullet struck her shoulder.

The modern crop of affordable sub-m.o.a. hunting rifles means more challengers for Weatherby’s Vanguard guns. But the Vanguard has something that few of its competitors can boast about: five decades of experience redefining the affordable bolt-action hunting rifle segment.

“My grandfather first introduced the Vanguard as a lower-cost alternative to the Mark V rifle,” Adam Weatherby said. “From its hammer-forged barrel to consistent tight tolerances and an accuracy guarantee, it grew to become a wildly successful project that is now its 50th year of existence.”

There are guns less expensive than the Vanguard, and a few of them carry an accuracy guarantee that matches Weatherby’s. But very, very few guns offer the combination of high build quality, consistent accuracy and bang-for-your-buck value that Vanguard rifles promise. That was the case five decades ago when this model made its debut, and it remains so today.

Weatherby Vanguard High Country Rifle Specifications

• Type: bolt-action centerfire
• Caliber: .257 Wby. Mag., 6.5 Creedmoor (tested), 6.5 PRC, 6.5-300 Wby. Mag., .270 Win, .308 Win., .30-06, .300 Win. Mag., .300 Wby. Mag.
• Capacity: 4+1
• Barrel: 24 in.; threaded 1/2×28; Accubrake ST muzzle brake
• Overall Length: 46 in.
• Weight: 7 lb., 3 oz.
• Stock: black synthetic with tan/green sponge paint
• Finish: flat dark earth Cerakote
• Trigger: 3.4 lb. pull (measured)
• Sights: none; drilled and tapped
• Price: $949
• Manufacturer: Weatherby, weatherby.com

Most modern bows have a complex method to adjust the draw length, and most require a bow press.

However, Bear compound bows are generally very easy to adjust and do not require the use of a bow press.

For this reason, Bear compound bows are one of the best bows for beginners.

Bear Adjustment System

Bear bows are one of the most beginner-friendly compound bows on the market.

This is because Bear archery made their bows completely adjustable for the draw weight and even the draw length.

There are some variations between the models, but the concept is generally the same.

Adjusting the Draw Length

Adjusting the draw length on your Bear compound bow is quite simple and can be done in less than ten minutes.

There are two steps to adjusting the draw length of a compound bow. First, we will adjust the module; this will set the draw length to your desired length.

Second, we must set the stop; this will ensure that the cams stop turning when you drawback.

Tools Needed

Adjusting a Bear compound bow is so easy that there are no tools needed other than the right size Allen keys.

This varies from model to model, so I like to have an Allen key set.

Fitting the small screws can also be a bit tricky, so I like to put my bow in a bow vice when adjusting it; however, this isn’t necessary.

Adjusting the Module

A compound bow module determines the draw length of a compound bow.

Many modules have only a limited range, allowing the bow to be adjusted in only small increments or in some cases, not at all.

However, the modules found on a Bear compound bow have a wide range of adjustments and, in most cases, do not need to be swapped for any size draw length.

To adjust the draw length on the bear compound bow module:

1. Find your draw length number. Once you know your draw length, you can find it’s corresponding number on the bear compound bow cam. For example: on a Bear Wild compound bow a 28 inch draw is number 4 on the module.
2. Secure the bow in a position that is comfortable to work on.
3. Locate the module. This is usually located on the cam on a single cam bow. On a dual cam bow the module is typically located on the tom cam.
4. Unscrew the two screws on the back of the module. Be careful not to lose the screws as the module will fall once the two screws are undone.
5. Slide the module to the number that corresponds with your draw length.
6. Locate the two holes that perfectly align between the module and the bow and redo the screws. Hand tighten the screws and be careful not to overtighten.

Adjusting the Stopper

Now that the draw length is set, we have to set the stopper to align with the draw length.

1. Locate the stopper. Typically on a single cam bow, the stopper is located on on the outside of the cam.
2. On a dual cam bow, there are two stoppers, and it is important that both are set equally to ensure your bow is firing evenly.
3. Undo the stopper and set it to the same number as what you set the module to.
4. Drawback your bow to check your draw length.

Important Things to Remember

Ensure that you are using the proper tools. Some bow manufacturers use metric measurements, and others use imperial. Find the one that fits your bow perfectly to prevent damaging the screws.

Double-check that you are undoing the proper screws. There are a lot of screws around the cams of a bow, so it’s important to double and triple-check that you have the correct screw.

Undoing the wrong screw could cause damage to the bow and injury to you.

Final Thoughts

Adjusting the draw length on a Bear compound bow is straightforward.

Once you find your corresponding number on the module to match your draw length, it’s only a matter of moving the module and the stopper to that number.

The whole process takes less than ten minutes, and you’re back up shooting again.

It’s easy to mistake the screws, so double-check that you have the right screw before undoing it to prevent damage and possible injury.