HARRISBURG, PA – Pennsylvania hunters harvested some tremendous black bears in the 2022 seasons, including three of more than 700 pounds and 11 more that topped 600 pounds.

Those were among 3,170 taken overall. That was down from 3,621 in 2021, but still enough to rank the harvest as the 14th largest all time.

Pennsylvania’s all-time best bear season came in 2019, when hunters harvested 4,653.

Hunters in 2022 took bears in 58 of the state’s 67 counties and 22 of its 23 Wildlife Management Units (WMUs).

Notably, the harvest was spread out – more evenly than ever before – over four seasons. Hunters took 737 bears in the archery season, 712 in the muzzleloader/special firearms season, 1,051 in the general season and 663 in the extended season. Another seven were taken in the early season.

That’s how things most likely will continue to look moving forward, said Emily Carrollo, the Game Commission’s black bear biologist.

“Our season structure allows hunters to pursue black bears across multiple months, using multiple tools, when opportunity best matches up with their availability,” Carrollo said. “They can hunt when they have the time off work or school or other responsibilities, which is good for them and helps us reach our management objectives.”

That’s attractive to lots of hunters, based on license sales.

In 2022, 213,639 individuals – 203,922 Pennsylvania residents, 9,717 nonresidents – bought a bear license. That was the third-most ever.

And hunters found some impressive bears.

The largest taken in 2022 was the 755-pounder harvested by Cory Bennett, of Toms River, N.J. He got it with a muzzleloader on Oct. 15 in Middle Smithfield Township, Monroe County.

The heaviest bear ever taken in Pennsylvania was an 875-pounder harvested in 2010 in Pike County. Since 1992, seven black bears weighing at least 800 pounds have been lawfully harvested in Pennsylvania hunting seasons.

Other large bears taken in the 2022 are: a 746-pounder taken with a rifle on Nov. 22 in Barrett Township, Monroe County, by James Laquino of Canadensis; a 705-pounder taken with a muzzleloader on Oct. 15 in Middle Smithfield Township, Monroe County, by Timothy Moffet, of East Greenville; a 693-pounder taken with a rifle on Oct. 20 in Abbott Township, Potter County, by Elijah Smucker, of Paradise; a 681-pounder taken with a muzzleloader on Oct. 22 in Bradford Township, Clearfield County, by William Swoope, of Woodland; a 681-pounder taken bow on Oct. 21 in Cumberland Valley Township, Bedford County, by Cole Schnably, of Bedford; a 657-pounder taken with a rifle on Oct. 22 in Gallagher Township, Clinton County, by Lane Charles, of Millersville; a 650-pounder taken with a rifle on Nov. 21 in Hazle Township, Luzerne County, by Joshua Monahan, of Ashland; a 634-pounder taken with a rifle on Nov. 27 in Asylum Township, Bradford County, by Nicholas Menzen, of Cogan Station; and a 633-pounder taken with a muzzleloader on Oct. 22 in Cummings Township, Lycoming County, by Holden Long, of Lock Haven.

Among counties, Tioga County produced the most, giving up 187 bears last season. Lycoming County ranked second with 152, followed by Bradford and Luzerne counties with 126 each, Centre County with 122, Potter County with 119, Clearfield and Monroe counties with 114 each and Clinton County with 113.

Final county harvests by region (with 2021 figures in parentheses) are:

Northwest – 502 (451): Warren, 88 (87); Jefferson, 81 (72); Clarion, 80 (60); Venango, 79 (81); Crawford, 52 (38); Forest, 51 (44); Butler, 40 (43); Erie, 20 (13); and Mercer, 11 (8).

Southwest -253 (247): Somerset, 64 (58); Armstrong, 50 (58); Cambria, 44 (19); Fayette, 34 (49); Indiana, 31 (12); Westmoreland, 25 (41); Greene, 3 (3); and Allegheny, 2 (7).

Northcentral – 1,028 (1,220): Tioga, 187 (166); Lycoming, 152 (212); Centre, 122 (118); Potter, 119 (180); Clearfield, 114 (94); Clinton, 113 (156); Elk, 85 (80); McKean, 52 (107); Cameron, 52 (68); and Union, 32 (39).

Southcentral – 355 (464): Huntingdon, 81 (115); Bedford, 71 (82); Mifflin, 34 (55); Blair, 33 (39); Fulton, 31 (47); Perry, 29 (42); Juniata, 26 (36); Franklin, 18 (17); Snyder, 15 (12); Cumberland 8 (8); Adams, 7 (10); and York, 2 (1).

Northeast – 901 (1,121): Bradford, 126 (136); Luzerne, 126 (111); Monroe, 114 (95); Pike, 84 (167); Sullivan, 84 (127); Wayne, 81 (120); Carbon, 78 (103); Lackawanna, 51 (62); Wyoming, 50 (66); Susquehanna, 47 (77); Columbia, 46 (36); Northumberland, 10 (16); and Montour, 4 (5).

Southeast – 131 (156): Schuylkill, 65 (61); Dauphin, 27 (54); Lebanon, 14 (8); Northampton, 12 (13); Berks, 11 (12); and Lehigh, 2 (6).

The final bear harvests by Wildlife Management Unit (with final 2021 figures in parentheses) were: WMU 1A, 26 (26); WMU 1B, 115 (96); WMU 2A, 13 (5); WMU 2B, 4 (10); WMU 2C, 159 (192); WMU 2D, 202 (206); WMU 2E, 85 (45); WMU 2F, 258 (245); WMU 2G, 425 (519); WMU 2H, 101 (90); WMU 3A, 174 (238); WMU 3B, 292 (403); WMU 3C, 165 (218); WMU 3D, 344 (426); WMU 4A, 114 (173); WMU 4B, 76 (121); WMU 4C, 190 (224); WMU 4D, 291 (300); WMU 4E, 109 (97); WMU 5A, 17 (14); WMU 5B, 2 (1); and WMU 5C, 8 (10).

MEDIA CONTACT: Travis Lau – 717-705-6541

# # #

Baby deer are enchanting creatures, and they grow up to be some of the most graceful animals in the forest. But what do you call a baby deer? In this blog post, we’ll explore the different names of baby deer, as well as their characteristics, and where they live. Stay tuned to learn more!

What is a baby deer called? 

A baby deer is called a fawn. Fawns are usually born in the spring, and they have a spotted coat that helps them camouflage in the forest. Their mother will take care of them for the first year of their lives, teaching them how to survive in the wild. After that, they will join a herd and live for around 10 years.

It’s interesting to note that elk, moose, and reindeer are all species of deer but instead are called calves. So, why are smaller deer species known by a different name?

The origin of fawn as the name for baby deer comes from the word fawn. In Old, English fawn meant rejoice or to be glad. Today we might say we “fawn” over a cute baby, but in Old English, the phrase stuck with what we call baby deer! 

INTERESTING FACTS ABOUT FAWNS:

-Fawns can run shortly after they are born

-A fawn’s spots will fade as they get older

-Fawns are very curious creatures and are not afraid to approach humans

-If a fawn is lost or abandoned, it is illegal to take them in and care for them yourself. You must contact a wildlife rehabilitator to help

-Fawns are native to Europe, Asia, and North America

THE PURPOSE OF SPOTS ON BABY DEER:

The spots on a fawn’s coat serve two purposes. The first is to camouflage the fawn in the forest, making it harder for predators to spot them. The second is to distract predators from attacking the fawn’s vulnerable body parts, like the neck and belly.

(Do Female Deer Have Antlers? See this post for more)

FAQs

How much do baby deer weigh?

Fawns usually weigh around six pounds at birth.

What do baby deer eat?

Baby deer, or fawns, drink their mother’s milk for the first few months of their lives. After that, they start to eat leaves, grass, and other plants.

How long do baby deer stay with their mothers?

Fawns stay with their mothers for the first year of their lives. During that time, the mother will protect her fawn from predators and teach it how to survive in the wild.

What is a baby deer’s survival rate?

The Survival Rate for fawns is only about fifty percent. This means that half of all baby deer will not survive to adulthood.

What are the different types of deer?

There are many different types of deer, depending on the region. Some common types of deer include red deer, white-tailed deer, mule deer, and elk.

Where do deer live?

Deer can be found all over the world, but they typically live in forests, meadows, and fields.

What is the life span of a deer?

The average life span for a deer is around 5-9 years.

Conclusion

A baby deer is called a fawn but elk, moose, and reindeer are all species of deer instead are called calves. 

Fact checked by Steven Lines, lifelong Hunter, and Outdoorsman.

The bugle call of an elk is a distinctive sound. There are multiple ways that a hunter can use this noise to their benefit. You can use it to track the movement of the elk. Or you can mimic their calls to attract them to the area. But will the elk bugle all year?

Elk will be most active during the rut. This occurs during the fall, usually between the end of September to the middle of October. But they will continue to bugle during the year. The bugle is their primary way of calling out potential challengers and controlling their herd.

Understanding the elk bugle is crucial for hunters. Keep reading to learn more about elk bugle calls and how you can put this information to use when hunting.

When do Elk Bugle

Elk will bugle throughout the year in North America. But the amount that they bugle will vary throughout the year.

They will be most active during the rut. This occurs during the fall months. They use this call to help them attract a mate. Because of this, it’s not uncommon for bulls to bugle most of the day. As we’ll discuss later, they will be more responsive to calls made during this time.

The breeding season will depend on where you live. Usually, though, you should start to hear bugling at the beginning of September. This will continue until mid to late October. But you might still be able to hear bugling towards the end of November.

You will be able to hear bugling throughout the rest of the year. But it will be occurring less frequently. Because of this, you will need to listen more carefully to identify the elk. Later, we’ll go more in-depth about the type of bugles you should be listening for.

What Time of the Day are Elk Most Active?

During the rut season, the best time to listen for elk bugling will be during the night. The twilight period will bring an increase in bugling activity. They will bugle most frequently during the rut. Sometimes, they can call out so much that they become hoarse.

The way the elk behaves will depend on the time of the day. During the sunrise and sunset, they will tend to be more active. This makes morning and evening hunts most productive.

During the day, they will tend to bed down. Often, they will move into thicker woods, making them more difficult to locate and hunt. It’s best to look for food and water resources.

Why do Elk Bugle

There are a few reasons why elk will bugle. Often, it will be their way of attracting a mate to the area. They might also use it to establish dominance and keep other men out of the area. Sometimes, it can be a way to alert fellow elk to danger in the area.

There are two main reasons why an elk will bugle. These are:

1. When an elk is bugling during the rut, it is often a way for the bull to attract a cow to them, so they can mate. Because of this, they want to make sure that their call is louder and more attractive than other bulls.
2. They can use their bugle as a way to establish their dominance. They want to make sure that other males stay out of their way. Because of this, they might use their bugle as a sign of aggression, acting as the precursor to a fight.

Other Ways Elk Attract a Mate

The bugle is just one way that an elk will attempt to get a mate. Some of the other ways they can get a mate’s attention are:

• Rubbing. During the rut, elk will rub themselves against trees and other objects. This is their way of showing their dominance. It also allows them to get old velvet out of their skin.
• Wallowing in mud and urine. This is designed to increase their scent making them more attractive.
• Hanging vegetation off their antlers. Sometimes, you will find that elk are hanging vegetation from their antlers. This is used to show their dominance.

Other Types of Elk Calls

Like humans, elk use their bugles to help them communicate their emotions. Some of the reasons why they might want to make a bugle call include:

• Warning of danger. The elk have a finely tuned sense of smell and have good hearing. If they sense a potential threat in the area, they will make noises to alert other group members. This lets them flee to safety.
• Calling for help. Sometimes, a young elk will make a call. This is often calling out to their mother or seeking some other type of help.
• Anger. Sometimes, the bulls will make a call to let other elk know how powerful they are. This can bring other bulls into the area, keen to defend their territory.
• General communication. When traveling an elk herd, elk have been known to make quieter calls to each other. This ensures that they are all moving together.

As an elk hunter, it’s essential to know the difference between each of these calls. If you know why the elk are making the bugling call, you’ll know the best way to respond to them. This will help you encourage them to get close enough to take a shot. We’ll talk about how you can do this a little later.

What Does an Elk Bugle Sound Like?

Many people are familiar with the most common elk bugle call. This will start as a low-pitched growl. But, as it goes on, it will transform into a high-pitched scream. This sound will carry long distances, so you might hear it echoing through mountainous terrain. You can listen to the bugle noise here.

Other Types of Elk Bugles

While this is the most famous type of bugle, elk will change their bugle depending on their situation. Some other kinds of bugles include:

• Locator calls. This is done throughout the year by the herd’s dominant bull. It’s their way of finding out if any other males in the area could challenge their dominance. If they don’t get any responses, they will continue on their way. Sometimes, they will stay in the same place when sending out these bulges. You can use this to your advantage, allowing you to pinpoint his location.
• Challenge bugle. Sometimes, there will be rival bulls in the area. They send out this bugle when they think their dominance will be challenged. At the end of these bugles, they will add a few chuckles.

Other Types of Elk Calls

While elk are known for their bugle, it isn’t the only sound they will make. Some of their other calls include:

• Mew. This is similar to the meowing that a kitten will make. It’s how the calves will communicate with their mothers.
• Chuckles added to the end of a bugle. This is a way for the bull to demonstrate its dominance and power. The more chuckles, the more powerful it is.
• Drum sounds. Sometimes, you’ll hear deep noises, like the banging of a drum. Because they are so deep, this sound will travel over a long distance. This is another way for the bull to prove its dominance, challenging any surrounding males. It’s most common during the elk rut.
• Bark. This is the sound no hunter wants to hear. Like a dog’s bark, the elk will use this noise to signal danger in the area. This is the herd’s cue to get out of the site.
• Chirping. This is a high-pitched noise. It’s often used within the herd to ensure the group stays together.
• Clashing. If you are elk hunting, you might hear the sound of elk clashing antlers. This is their primary way of establishing dominance, showing that they are the most muscular male in the area.

Using Bugle Calls to Track Elk Movements

Now that we know more about what a bugle is and why elk will make this noise, we can use it to our advantage when hunting. The first thing we can do is use the bugles to locate where the herd is. They will even bugle when they are bedded down.

But using a call to locate the elk can be a difficult task. It can echo off mountains and rocks, making it hard to pinpoint the cause of the signal. The good news is that you don’t need to rely on it during the rut season.

First, you’ll want to look at the trees. See if you can spot any signs that they have been rubbing on them. It’s also a good idea to look for things like droppings or tracks. This tells you how recently the elk were in the area.

Like all hunts (mule deer, red deer, moose), you’ll need to consider how the elk will react to stimuli. If there are a lot of humans around, the elk will often want to avoid that area. You should also look at a map. Look for signs of water, food, and other wildlife. The elk will want to move towards these areas.

This article goes into more depth about how you can locate both bull elk and cow elk during your hunt.

Using a Bugle to Attract Elk

Another way to use the bugle to your advantage is by replicating the call. This will bring the elk to you. Let’s look at how you can do this.

Making a Realistic Bugle Noise

The first thing that you need to do is learn how to make a realistic bugling noise. You will need to build or buy an elk bugle to do this. This is a tube that will allow you to replicate the call of the elk. This video shows you how to develop your bugle. Alternatively, you can find them in hunting stores.

How to Call for Elk

Once you have your bugle, it’s time to go hunting. Once you have located the elk, you’ll need to decide what type of bugle you want to employ. This will depend on the type of call the elk is providing.

Sometimes, you will get a more tentative call. In this case, you might need to wait until you are closer to start getting aggressive. This will help you force the elk into the open, where you can get a shot at them.

On the other hand, you might be able to get aggressive from the start. This will force the elk towards you so that you can get a good shot. Here are a few other tips that you can use:

• Be in control. You want to make sure that the elk respond to your calls rather than you reacting to them. If you can do this, they will want to come to you.
• Elk have two emotions. There are two things that the elk will respond to. They will respond to love. This is especially important during the rut, as they bugle to attract a mate. The other emotion is anger. This is what happens when you are going into their territory and start challenging their dominance.
• Understand the emotions. Many people can get caught up in trying to replicate the call perfectly. But this is often less important than reading the emotions of the elk that you are communicating with. The elk will come if you can make the right call at the right time.
• Keep practicing. Like all skills, your elk calling will improve the more you practice it. If you want more tips on what you should focus on, check out this video with champion caller Corey Jacobsen.

Why Do Some Elk Run From a Bugle Call?

Most of the time, the elk will go towards a bugle. They want to face their challenger and prove their dominance. But this won’t always be the case.

Sometimes, they will gather up their herd and leave the area. Among hunters, this is called bugling and running. There are a few reasons why this might be happening.

Sometimes, it might be a young elk. They might be too inexperienced and concerned about the prospect of going up against a bigger animal. Because he doesn’t want to lose his harem, he might want to move his cows out of the area before losing the challenge.

On the other hand, bigger bulls can also bugle and run. They might have a lot of cows who are coming into estrous. At this time, he will often be more focused on breeding than proving his dominance.

Third, the hunter might have made a mistake. If a hunter has already spooked the bull, he will be warier. If he can sense danger in the area, he is unlikely to go towards the sound. He’ll just want to gather his herd and move away from the threat.

The good news is that bugling and running are rare occurrences. In most cases, if you make a good call, the elk will come to you.

Final Thoughts

Bugling for elk is one of the essential tools that a hunter will have at their disposal. If you can understand why they are bugling, you’ll be able to respond appropriately. When done right, the elk should come to you, giving you plenty of opportunities to shoot them.

Though this will be most effective during the rut, elk will bugle all year. As a result, a good caller will always be able to attract elk into the area.

Steven Lines is a hunter and outdoorsman from Safford, Arizona, USA. Since he was a child, he has been hunting and fishing and has over 20 years of outdoor experience. Steven works as a hunting guide in Arizona during his spare time and runs a Youtube channel dedicated to sharing his outdoor adventures with others.

Sources

• https://blog.nwf.org/2014/11/5-intriguing-fall-elk-rut-behaviors-videos/
• https://www.nps.gov/thingstodo/elk-bugling-wica.htm
• https://www.fieldandstream.com/hunting/learn-the-right-elk-calls/
• https://targetcrazy.com/hunting/elk-sounds-meanings/
• https://elkhuntersguide.com/locating-elk/

A message from EatThePlanet.org: “We are happy you found us! We strive to be informative and accurate. Enjoy what you find here! Take a look at our new downloadable pdf eBook A Complete Guide To Foraging. We put a lot of work into this eBook and are very excited to share it with you.” – Joe Forager(Owner)

Editor’s note: This article was originally published in September 2013. Updated April 2022.

The name ‘wild cherry tree’ refers to a number of species in the genus Prunus. Some of the most common include the black cherry (Prunus serotina) and the chokecherry (Prunus virginiana), both of which are native to North America. There is also a species native to Europe called wild cherry (Prunus avium). All three of these common cherry species have similar characteristics, but there are factors that can help you tell them apart. Both the fruits and bark of the North American species have an interesting history of usage in Native American culture.

Edibility and culinary use

The only edible part of the plant is the flesh of the fruit, as, like store-bought cherries or apples, even the seeds contain toxins. The taste of the fruit can vary between species and even individual trees within the same species. The European wild cherry (Prunus avium) is also known as the ‘sweet cherry’. As the name suggests, the fruits are much sweeter than their North American cousins. Because of this, they are the original wild version of the cherries that we buy at the supermarket.

The black cherry and chokecherry have a similar taste which is usually described as bitter, often with a hint of sweetness. Some trees produce fruits with a sweeter taste, but the bitterness is almost always present. They can be eaten raw right off the tree as a snack while out walking or hiking. However, they’re more commonly used in pies and other recipes. If eating them raw make sure to choose the darkest and softest cherries, and make sure you spit out the seed. Wild cherries usually ripen in summer between May and June depending on the species and area.

Health benefits of wild cherries

Cherries contain a number of very effective antioxidants including chlorogenic acid, quercetin, and kaempferol. Some studies involving chokecherries indicate that they could potentially lower high blood pressure. The high number of antioxidants in black cherries could also help to ease inflammation caused by conditions like arthritis.

Cherries are an excellent source of fiber, potassium, and many B-vitamins. HealthTrends.com has some more indepth information on the benefits of B-vitamins and potassium in your diet.

Cautions and lookalikes

The leaves, bark, seeds, and all other plant parts of the cherry tree contain a substance called hydrogen cyanide that can break down into cyanide. It’s a well-known toxin that can be very harmful to humans. Grazing animals are often lethally poisoned by eating too many cherry leaves. Hydrogen cyanide has a very bitter taste, so if you ever come across berries that are extremely bitter it may be best to avoid them.

When foraging for any wild berries, make sure to follow these fundamental identification steps. Wild cherries generally do not closely resemble any poisonous wild fruits. However naive foragers could mistake black cherries (Prunus serotina) for deadly nightshade or moonseed berries.

How to identify wild cherry

Wild cherry trees can usually be identified by their leaves and bark. The leaves will have finely serrated edges and the bark typically features horizontal lenticels on newer growth, and sometimes older growth too. Chokecherry and black cherry trees are very similar in appearance, however, the chokecherry tree usually has smaller, glossier leaves.

Another good identification feature is that many cherry trees have a fungus called black knot which creates large and small cankers or burls on the tree. Black knot affects many plants in the Prunus genus including cherries and plums. When collecting wild edibles, always make sure to follow Safe Foraging guidelines.

Wild cherries in Native American culture

Cherries were a vital source of nutrition to ancient cultures across Europe and North America, including Native Americans. Wild cherries would have been eaten freshly picked or dried and stored with other berries as a winter supply of fruit. The dried fruits would be used in many dishes including ‘pemmican’, a traditional high-calorie Native American food that was created for long journeys. Dried meat and fruits would be ground down and then mixed with animal fats and stored in rawhide bags to preserve them.

The bark of wild cherries was also collected and used in Native American medicines. It would be ground into a powder or boiled to create teas. It was used mainly to treat respiratory illnesses like coughs and colds. However, it was also used to stem bleeding, and treat digestive complaints like diarrhea or cramps. Chokecherry bark was also used by some groups in a herbal smoking mixture known as Kinnikinnick. The ingredients varied between groups, but it usually contained notable bark and leaves from certain valued plant species.

Conclusion

Chokecherry and black cherry trees are a common find in many parts of the US, especially in the eastern states. They’re also a valued food source for plenty of wildlife too, especially deer, birds, and even bears. If you identify a tree in the wild, or even in your own backyard, try a cherry or two. Personally, I like to eat them freshly picked in small quantities during the summer.

Do you have a local source of wild cherries near you?

Many of our readers find that subscribing to Eat The Planet is the best way to make sure they don’t miss any of our valuable information about wild edibles.

See our privacy policy for more information about ads on this site

Last updated on March 11th, 2024 at 02:49 am

Are you looking for the best musky lures for 2024 summer musky fishing?

While it is impossible to say that any one single muskie lure is best, we luckily have many great options to choose from when out on the water. Below we will take a look at some of the top best musky lures of 2024, including the best musky lures for trolling, the best musky lures for summer, and the best musky lures for Lake St. Clair and really every musky-rich water body.

When the musky feeding window is open and the stars align, a giant muskie or pike will hit just about anything that moves. In those rare instances, your musky bait selection doesn’t really matter and all one needs to do is to be in the right place at the right time. If you are extremely lucky and dedicated to muskie fishing, you will experience this musky feeding-frenzy type of action once or twice a season.

The majority of your time spent muskie fishing for trophy pike and muskies, however, will be spent casting, cranking, and waiting. The right musky lure presentation will be the difference between a big bite and a follow-up. Therefore, you don’t want to spend all of your time and effort casting second-rate lures. Here is our selection of the best musky lures and northern pike fishing baits available on the market today.

Best Musky Lures 2024

1. Musky Innovations Bull Dawg – Best Musky Lures For 2024

The Musky Innovations Bull Dawg musky lure is made of 100% soft plastic. This musky lure, which is balanced with a jig-like head, swims down in the water at a 45º angle on the descent and swims horizontal during the retrieve.

Bull Dawgs can be used as a jig, jerkbait, or a crankbait. While being retrieved, this musky lure rocks back and forth as it’s long curly tail waves frantically, a great combination that tends to drives large gamefish like muskie crazy.

We find this musky lure to be one of the most versatile and best muskie lures on the market today, and possibly the best musky lures for 2024.

Wondering what is the best musky net for the money?

2. Mepps Magnum Musky Killer Bucktail – Best Musky Lures For Summer

Mepps Magnum Musky Killer is a tried and true favorite musky lure, specifically designed to catch and handle hogs. It’s no secret that BIG fish want to eat BIG baits, and the Mepps Magnum Musky Killer is among the biggest!

We consider these to be the best musky lures for summer, especially in the bucktail variety. They are made with all the qualities and features that trophy muskie and pike fishermen look for in a big musky lure for summer. Features such as easy changability, like a heavy #7 solid brass blade allowing for maximum flash, heavy-duty premium VCM 5/0 cone cut treble hooks.

This classic muskie lure weighs in at 1 1/4 ozs. Bucktails are without a doubt one of the best musky lures for summer.

3. Lixada Fishing Lures 5-12″ Multi Jointed Life-Like Swimbait Hard CrankBaits – Best Selling Musky Lure

These super life-like northern pike and muskie lures don’t carry a fancy brand name, which means they represent one of the best bangs for your bucks when it comes to musky lures. Lixada tends to be the best selling brand of these lures, however. These are also one of the best selling musky lures on Amazon.

These 5-12″ multi-jointed hard plastic musky baits are value priced and will be one of the best accessories in your musky tackle box. These muskie lures have a super realistic appearance and feature life-like swimming actions to provoke monster muskies to bite.

Features of these muskie lures include being 5-12 inches in length divided into 8-segments, double 3 set treble hooks, life-like 3D eyes, high resolution, laser sharp body detail, and a durable ABS hard plastic material ensuring long service life.

These are definitely one of the best musky lures under $25. Their low price makes them one of the best musky lures for sale.

4. Jointed Believer – Best Musky Lures For Trolling

The Jointed Believer is our top pick for the best musky lures for trolling. There are two makers of these style of musky baits that we recommend: Musky Mania and Drifter Tackle. Either one should serve you well when trolling for musky.

Musky Mania Super Believer

The Musky Mania Super Believer is a medium running plastic bait with a live action tail crankbait. The live action tail is a replaceable soft plastic.

The flash and swimming action created by the long tail, especially while trolling, gives a life-like presentation to muskies that simply cannot be duplicated by older, more conventional crankbaits. The Super Believer trolls and casts equally well, while running 12′ while trolling and 2′-6′ when casting.

Drifter Tackle Jointed Believer

The Drifter Tackle Jointed Believer musky lure is one of the most versatile musky baits on the market. It’s shallow and deep eyelet, along with its unique design and shape, enable this musky lure to be fished from topwater down to depths of 20 feet.

For fishing over thick weeds, you can retrieve this lure slowly as a topwater bait. For lighter weeds, you can use it as a twitch bait or jerk bait. You can also cast it into timber, rocks, and heavier cover working it as a crankbait.

Because this lure continues to consistently produce fish, we rank it and the one mentioned above it as the best musky lures for trolling. It has an erratic and unique action which triggers musky strikes from fish that have been presented with everything.

Need a pair of the best musky release gloves?

5. Musky Double Cowgirl Bait – Best Musky Lures For Beginners

The Musky Double Cowgirl bait by Musky Mayhem is a classic and very popular big muskie lure. Being one of the easiest musky baits to fish with, we consider these to be the best musky lures for beginners.

While it is similar to the Mepps bucktail mentioned earlier, it does differ in several ways. This muskie bait has two huge #10 spinner blades which create a large amount vibration in the water. The lure’s Flashabou skirting gives it life-like action, a larger profile, and excellent color.

Many would argue that this is the best inline spinner available, because of it’s baitfish simulating action. Being that it easy to work, can be fished in just about any conditions or terrain, is well known to produce huge musky, this is our choice for best musky lure for beginners.

6. Whopper Plopper – Best Topwater Musky Lures

The famous Whopper Plopper is our top choice for the best topwater musky lures.

The original River2Sea Whopper Plopper was designed by legendary fisherman and television personality, Larry Dahlberg. This topwater musky bait produces a sputtering surface disruption that is begging to be smashed by muskies. While it was originally created to catch musky, Dahlberg and others soon realized that bass were also highly attracted to this bait. Therefore, smaller versions were devised for bass fishermen.

You can work the Whopper Plopper super slow, so you barely hear the tail, only the tiny beads sizzling inside of it. Or, you can speed things up so the lure throws water like a flailing wounded fish. Either way has proven extremely effective.

On calm water days, it is best to run this topwater musky lure slow, as it won’t take much action to draw a muskies attention. On the other hand, during rough waters, speed up your retrieve in order to stand out among the natural water movements.

This surface musky lure casts a mile, and your ability to fish it at a wide range of speeds, makes it a deadly tool for catching musky. The River2Sea Whopper Plopper’s spinning tail is perfectly tuned right out of the box, and it is available in a variety of sizes and colors.

7. Suick Musky Thriller – Best Wooden Musky Lures

Back in the day, the original musky lures were made buy guides. The more successful the guide was, the higher prices they could charge for their services.

The first company to successfully make muskie lures that worked for musky exceptionally well was the Suick Lure Company with their “Suick Musky Thriller”, which is for sure one of the best old musky lures. The lure comes in 4”, 7”, 9”, and 10” sizes. Suick Lure Company is still in business today, so they can be ordered and this should be a staple in your musky tackle box.

Now if you study these musky baits you will notice that at the back end is a piece of metal similar to a tail. Here is a little muskie secret that you will learn only here at TigerMuskie.net that your guide will not tell you. Simply put, that metal is adjustable for changing conditions. A lot of anglers just take a lure out of the box and snap it on the end of their line and off they go. The proper way to use muskie lures that have adjustable parts is to test them out first, before you go out fishing. Make sure it is performing how it should be, and that only comes with practice and knowledge that you will gain here.

With the Suick Musky Thriller, we recommend making a slight upside down v-shape with the metal tail. Only bend the tail about 1/8th of an inch on each side. This very subtle adjust will provide much better action out of this lure, and thus produce more fish. Suicks are still definitely the best wooden musky lures.

8. Savage Gear 3D Suicide Duck

The Savage Gear 3D Suicide Duck is an amazing muskie lure that acts just like a retreating duckling making it perfect to be swallowed up by a giant muskie. This hard plastic musky lure can be fished with either long pulls or steady retrieves, slow or fast, and looks just like a real duckling!

The Savage Gear 3D Suicide Duck is conveniently designed to include both a bottom and top hook hanger, which allows you to customize the lure’s presentation based upon current conditions.

Given the lifelike features of the 3D Savage Gear Suicide Duck, it’s no surprise that it was the winner in the Hard Bait category at the 2016 ICAST event.

9. Chasebaits The Ultimate Squid Fishing Lure – Newest Musky Lures

We know what you are thinking. “What the heck is that thing?” Well, this is Chasebaits The Ultimate Squid, one of the newest musky lures on the market. Now, before you jump out of your boat, hear us out.

You might be wondering why on earth would a musky want to eat a squid, when there are no squids in fresh water. We challenge you to pose this question to anglers on Lake Michigan who have been using squid baits for years to catch giant salmon and trout on the Great Lake. The truth is, squid baits have proven to be extremely effective, even for freshwater fish.

The Chasebaits Ultimate Squid is by far the most realistic looking and life-like squid baits we have ever seen. These newest musky lures have the potential to catch massive musky. Only time will tell for sure just how effective they will be, but we highly encourage you to give them a shot.

These are definitely one of the coolest new musky lures that we have seen. Their relatively low price also makes them absolutely worth trying.

10. Cisco Kid Topper

As mentioned above, Suick has been making musky lures for decades. The Cisco Kid Topper is one of their newer, topwater musky baits.

The Suick Cisco Kid Topper looks like a little torpedo and it’s nose and tail features stainless steel propeller blades which create a large topwater disturbance which really gets the attention of any muskies in the area. This great muskie lure can be used at a fast or medium speed to keep the blades spinning properly.

When it comes to the best topwater muskie lures, this is one of our favorites.

Live Bait Musky Rigs

The old standby for musky fishing is the use of live bait. However, usng live bait musky rigs for fishing presents its own unique set of problems. One of them it that purchasing live bait can be very expensive. Live suckers which are in the 6” range and larger can cost upwards of ten dollars each or more.

Then there is the problem of keeping them fresh. In order to do that, another container must be brought into the boat, such as a five gallon bucket or a Frabill Magnum Bait Station. The larger the bait fish, the less you can carry on board or you will need a larger container. The inherent issue here is to be able to oxygenate the water to keep them alive. The more you have in the bucket, the more oxygen you’ll need to add to the water. The Frabill live well just mentioned comes with an aerator. However, if your bait station does not come with an aerator, you’ll need to pick one up. While musky lures are reusable, suckers are not.

It’s also critical that you select and use a proper live bait musky rig. Not only do you want to make sure that your expensive bait doesn’t get off, but more importantly you want to be sure that you are minimizing the chances of injuring any muskies.

You also have to ask yourself, is the live bait I am using natural bait to the water I’m fishing in? This is not to say that a muskie will not strike at any live bait presentation, but they will strike more frequently to natural bait found in the lake that you are fishing in.

Yes they work, and there are many different hooks, live bait musky rigs, and techniques of how to apply them to the end of your line. We recommend that you watch quite a few YouTube videos of how to properly rig a sucker, or hire a guide for a day to show you how to do live bait musky fishing.

Musky Lures Buyer’s Guide

When it comes to musky lures, there is no shortage of different jigs, swimbaits, crankbaits, and more available to musky fishermen. Musky baits come in all different actions, shapes, sizes, and weights. Some lures are easier to work than others, but when worked properly, each can be very effective.

Musky Lure Types

Over the past 20 years or so the number of different types of musky lures has grown substantially. Thanks to the invention of new materials and manufacturing processes, musky fishermen have been blessed (or perhaps cursed) with a plethora of options. The trend has been towards bigger and bigger musky lures.

There are so many different musky lure types and styles that we can’t possibly cover them all here. But let us take a look at some of the the most popular musky lure types.

Glide Baits

Glide baits can be one of the most effective musky lures any time of year, but they can also be one the hardest lures to work properly. Depending on your preferred style, glide baits can be retrieved fast and erratic or with a slow side-to-side action. We recommend practicing both. There are a lot of styles of musky glide baits, so try out a few different models that you can work properly and like the action of. Learning to properly work the best glide baits takes a lot of practice, but knowing how to do so is crucial if you want to catch more muskies.

Soft Plastics

Despite the fact that most soft plastic musky lures don’t resemble actual fish, they remain arguably the best musky lures of modern day. The reason for this is simple: they consistently catch musky.

Soft plastic musky baits can be cast and retrieved in a multitude of different styles, depending on the the angler and the mood of the fish. Typically, however, soft plastic musky lures are most often retrieved with a “pull, reel in the line slack, pull again” fashion. This manner of retrieve, with the rise and fall action of the bait, resembles an injured or dying baitfish. Nearby muskies will often try to take advantage of an easy meal, which a soft plastic lure can seem to be.

Perhaps the two most popular of soft plastic musky baits are the Bull Dawg and Medussa. There have been some clones of these lures come to market in recent years, and they may work equally as well for less money.

Topwaters

Topwater musky strikes are some of the most invigorating and memorable hits to watch. Once the water of the summer has warmed up, topwater musky lures work like a charm, if you know how to properly work them.

Two very popular topwater musky bait styles are Whopper Ploppers and “walk-the-dog” topwater baits. Whopper Ploppers are very easy to work, and can be very effective with a straight retrieve. On the other hand, “walk-the-dog” musky lures require some practice. These lures need to be retrieved in a side-to-side fashion with as little hesitation in-between pulls as possible, in order to be effective.

Bucktails & Spinners

Bucktails have historically been the most popular lures used by musky fishermen. What makes bucktails so great and effective is that they produce vibrations in the water pattern that a musky can easily feel. Getting the fish’s attention from a distance and triggering it’s bite response are huge advantages to bucktails.

Bucktails can be cast and retrieved at any rate of speed, dependent upon the angler and the conditions. Bucktails come with various size blades, but some of the most popular and effective ones have double 9 and double 10 blades. Musky Mayhem, Llugen Lures, and Mepps are just a few of the companies making some of the best bucktails for musky fishing today.

Warranty

Warranty of musky lures is generally a non issue. Your musky lure is not likely to simply break, or not work, like an electronic device would. Also, musky lures are subject to a lot of abuse, so you would have a difficult time proving to a manufacturer that their lure just broke on it’s own. That being said, if you do experience a problem with a lure, we suggest contacting the manufacturer. Most reputable companies will do what they can to keep you as a happy customer.

You are unlikely to ever need to file a warranty claim with a musky lure. The biggest cause of lose or damage to musky lures comes from getting snagged on rocks or other hidden debris. Nobody likes to lose a $30 lure, but it is an unfortunate part of the sport.

Price

Musky lures are not cheap. If you are new to the sport, you may be shocked to see just how expensive some baits are. On the extreme low end, cheap musky lures can be had for $4-$5. On the high end, you can expect to pay in the $20-$30 range. Custom musky lures from smaller makers can even be in the $50-$100 range.

Unlike a lot of things where higher price can often mean better performance or production, that isn’t necessarily the case with musky lures. A $100 custom lure won’t catch you any more fish than a $15 lure. We would suggest starting with the lower priced lures in the $10-$20 range. As you advance in your skills, you can consider investing in some more expensive musky lures.

Where To Buy

You can buy musky lures at most major big box sporting good stores. However, depending upon your location, the selection may be quite limited. These retailers also have higher markup on their lures, so unless you come across a sale, we don’t recommend paying full retail at a big box store for your musky lures.

Online market places such as Amazon offer a good selection of musky lures at very fair prices. You also can’t beat their customer service and return policy. Facebook musky groups and Craigslist are also good places to get custom or used musky lures at solid deals.

One last place to buy musky lures on sale is musky expos and conventions. These sports shows usually have all of the manufacturers there, both large and small, and you can often get really good deals on musky lures while at the show.

Best Musky Lures Of All Time

Musky lures have certainly evolved quite a bit over the years. From the first musky lures that were handmade, and usually made and sold by fishing guides, who sold them to their customers and local bait shops, to today’s modern musky lures made of high quality plastics and polymers. Some of the best musky lures of all time were copied from those original hand-made guide baits.

Today, some are still handmade, but mostly made by large companies like Rapala and Mepp’s to name a few. It was those first fishing guides who spent hours and hours on the water, studying the habitat, the structure, the shorelines, and water conditions, which provided the basis for their crafting of muskie lures that mimicked the natural baits in the water.

Conclusion

When you are muskie fishing, you are going to have to make a choice as far as what types of muskie lures to put on the end of your line. You have to think about what you are going to put in front of that trophy musky. If you want to get the fish to strike at your presentation, and then get it into the boat, then you are going to need to have a complete musky fishing package. That means the rod, the reel, the line, the knot you tie, the swivels, the musky baits, the leader, the net, and the boat you are using, which are all contributing factors to whether you will be successful or not. Over time you’ll develop an expertise in the proper selection of each and every one of these pieces or musky tackle. These will be the tools of your trade. The tools you’ll use to hone your craft. And that trophy fish won’t be far behind. What we are saying is that yes, lure selection is extremely important, but don’t neglect all of the other aspects of what it takes to land a giant musky.

We have just covered a few of the old tried and true best musky lures of all time. During your musky fishing lifetime you will run across many more musky lures and new innovations. The key to success is to keep trying new things, in addition to learning how to effectively use each of the baits that you already have.

We hope you have found our musky lure buying guide to be helpful. Check back often for updates to our list of the best musky lures.

Best Muskie Lures Comparison

Sharing is caring!

Truck bed camping can be a blast; indeed, I think it is one of the best ways to travel and get out there, but you have to do it the right way. Desk to Dirtbag has become the #1 site and resource about the whole truck bed camping movement and I have received thousands of emails over the years from readers asking for help and been tuned in to thousands of conversations in our Pickup Truck Camping group on Facebook. That’s all to say that I’ve seen virtually all the truck bed camping mistakes or fails that people make.

Heck, I’ve certainly even experienced a few of them myself over hundreds of nights and 10’s of thousands of miles. Not only have I embarked upon a great American road trip more than a few times, but I’ve also driven across all of Latin America with my ol’ truck. Needless to say, I’m very aware of the pros and cons of truck bed camping.

So, let’s get on with it, these are a few of the biggest truck bed camping fails that you should try to avoid, and which might completely ruin your trip.

Over-Engineering the Build

Part of truck bed camping is building out the back of your truck below the canopy into a cool and cozy space where you can have your own little home on wheels basically. This means gear storage, sleeping, a place for cooking (with ventilation, of course), and a number of other factors.

I did a LOT of research about truck bed camping before I built out the back, and I’ve seen the pretty photos of those super complex builds with the super fancy roll-out drawers, custom lighting, carpeted storage bins, and so much more.

This is a big mistake, in my honest opinion, for a number of reasons:

1. The more you over-engineer your truck bed camping setup, the heavier you are making your truck which will eat into your fuel economy for every mile your drive.
2. The more complex the setup, the more “permanent” these installations usually are, which means less flexibility as your needs change, and increased hassle if you need to remove the setup to use your truck like normal (or even just clean). My setup, for example, takes less than 10 minutes to either completely remove or install.
3. These more permanent setups with fancy slide-out drawers will also dramatically reduce your living space, which leads us directly into the next big mistake…

My setup may not be the most Instagram-worthy, but it is definitely one of the most adventure-worthy vehicles.

Building a Coffin on Wheels

In an ideal world, you’ll only be in your truck for sleeping and then maybe a few hours in total before bedtime and after waking up. This is why the small space of a truck bed camping setup is something that most people can cope with, even over long periods of time. The idea of truck camping has never been just sitting in your truck all the time and hanging out, but rather to use it as a base for all sorts of other amazing adventures.

Side Rant: Ever notice how VanLife people post more pictures of their vans rather than the adventures they should be having thanks to their home on wheels? That’s what we don’t want.

In the real world, however (especially on longer trips), you are bound to find yourself hunkered down in your truck for longer periods of time, perhaps due to a terribly rainy day or for some other reason.

This is where the overbuilt approach mentioned above becomes an even bigger mistake…

The standard truck bed camping approach is to build an elevated platform for gear storage underneath (those fancy sliding drawers and things) but this drastically cuts into your sleeping quarters.

Some people end up likening their truck camping setups to coffins on wheels… They are only big enough to shimmy into and sleep, especially if they have a standard canopy rather than the elevated canopy, as I recommend.

Imagine being stuck inside your little coffin all day without the ability to even sit up!

For that reason, I highly recommend doing the back-shelf approach or the transformer approach that I advocated, rather than the elevated platform approach.

Read more about two main approaches to truck bed camping and their pros & cons.

Not Weatherizing Your Canopy

There’s nothing like the great outdoors and sleeping under the stars, but the whole idea of truck bed camping is the ability to take shelter. That’s what your truck canopy is for. Throw it on top of your truck bed, and the rest will take care of itself, right? Wrong. You need to take precautions, otherwise, you might wake up one morning feeling very wet.

First, make sure your canopy properly fits your truck bed. That should go without saying, but you’d be surprised by some of the rigs you see out there. If your canopy is too small (or too large), or has gaps of light coming through, you need to figure out if it’s defective or unusable for your rig. Don’t ignore this.

If significant amounts of air can come through, so can water. Heat will leak out, too. Who wants to be cold and wet on their trip? The easiest quick and dirty test is to jump inside and get a friend to spray the canopy & truck bed points of contact with a hose from all different angles. Also, focus on the tailgate area for this test. It isn’t perfect because an ongoing torrential rainstorm will be the real test, but it should help you identify the biggest problem areas.

Once you have a canopy in working order, look for ways to ensure moisture never gets in from the outside. Invest in weatherizing truck canopy tape and use it to seal the edges where your canopy meets the bed walls. Pay special attention to the bulkhead, which is the area where the cab meets the bed. Many of my fellow truck campers have issues with water entering through this area, so take the time to waterproof it. I’ll emphasize that you should really take the time to do this, because having a dry space you can rely on is crucial when the weather is at its worst.

Properly sealing your canopy can also help eliminate dust from infiltrating the back which can be a big problem if you’re spending a lot of time off of the asphalt. I took the time to use that sticky foam weather sealant to identify these problem areas which dramatically reduced the amount of dust.

Do this test at night: with the help of a partner, you can have one person inside and another outside as one of you shines a bright flashlight to identify where light escapes (check with the light both from the outside-in and inside-out).

Not Having a Proper Sleep Setup

Do you think you’re one of those people that can fall asleep anywhere? That may be true, but that’s no reason to leave a quality night of sleep to chance. A restless night makes it harder to function during the day. It doesn’t make you look tougher if you’re crabby and fumbling around all day because you didn’t sleep well.

This was probably my biggest mistake when I first set out… I neglected to have a proper sleep setup because I was an experienced backpacker and mountaineer, accustomed to sleeping on little inflatable sleeping pads and squishing some clothes into a stuff sack for a pillow.

FAIL.

This is truck camping, you don’t need to go ultralight (although you shouldn’t go ultra-heavy either). My biggest recommendation is to get a quality truck bed mattress and a nice pillow.

You need a pillow you can actually use, not some worn-out thing from the back of your closet. And beware of memory foam pillows if you plan to sleep in the cold — those things turn hard as a rock (another lesson learned the hard way… literally).

Get some sort of sleeping surface too, so that you don’t lie awake feeling the ridges of your truck bed all night. It could be as simple as a sheet of plywood across the bottom of your truck bed which is basically what I use.

Find a sleeping bag that actually keeps you warm and fits your body. None of this needs to be ultra-expensive, but it does need to be functional. For the sleeping bag, at least, it is worth looking to the backpacking world for clues… You want something that is high quality but can still stuff down without taking up a bunch of room.

To cover the widest range of temperatures, I think that a 15-degree bag is the sweet spot. It will keep you warm inside your truck camping setup in all but the most frigid conditions… I’ve used mine when outside temps were in the single digits — inside the canopy obviously is warmer, and I also use appropriate winter clothes inside the sleeping bag. When it gets warmer, you can open the sleeping bag up and use it as a comforter.

If you’ll be in hot and humid conditions, be sure to just bring along a simple cotton sheet instead.

If you can manage to be a little more comfortable at night, it will make the rest of your adventure that much better.

Read more about choosing a truck bed mattress and sleep system.

Not Locking Up Your Valuables

You might always think the best of people, but that’s no reason not to protect yourself. On the other hand, it’s no good to spend the time away from your truck worrying about who’s going to steal what’s inside it. So, before your next trip, devise a way to keep your best stuff not just hidden, but inaccessible to anyone but you (and the people you’re traveling with).

Sure, you could just trust the lock on your canopy, but what good is that in a smash-and-grab situation? Instead, opt for a storage system that deters thieves with its complexity. You want to make it difficult enough for them to the point where it requires tools for them to get in since almost all of these thefts are crimes of opportunity.

If you’ve got the must undercover truck at the trailhead or in the parking lot, the thief is likely to go after the easy mark or the one that screams “I’ve got a bunch of expensive stuff inside” (yeah, again looking at the VanLife people).

One reason I love a truck bed camping setup as opposed to many others — even rooftop tents — is just how discrete it is. Most people think it is just a truck with a canopy, not a home on wheels. But canopies are also pretty easy to break into, so I wouldn’t trust hundreds or thousands of dollars of gear to some canopy locks.

It is this reason that the gear platform style of truck camping setup is often chosen because one can have a relatively protected area (if there are additional locks) so the bad guys can’t get in easily, even if they smash your window.

That’s also part of the reason I made the transformer setup, so I could lock my tailgate to the elevated platform, effectively complicated the life of anyone trying to quickly steal my gear while I’m gone. Hasp locks, in particular, work wonders with this setup when it comes to keeping your belongings protected because you can actually lock your whole tailgate to the elevated platform.

Regardless of which type of setup you choose, you should have another locked or protected storage space inside your truck bed camping setup.

Not Camping in a Suitable Area

A great way to completely derail your truck camping adventure is to hunker down for the night in a place you shouldn’t. This takes many forms… You can park too close to the road and leave your truck prone to accidents. You can get too far off the beaten path and get stuck in the mud. You can even plant yourself on someone’s private property and find yourself in trouble with the authorities.

There are easy ways around this. Campgrounds, of course, provide the most straightforward answer, of course, then you will have to pay to spend the night… You can expect that to run you $20 or more per night. That’s fine for a weekend adventure, but if you’re going full-time, that would amount to at least $600 per month.

That’s why so many truck campers turn to free camping in the USA. I’ve camped almost everywhere imaginable, from the middle of dry lake beds, Las Vegas casino parking garages, Wal-Marts, gas stations, and every in between… And that’s just in the United States, don’t get me started on the overlanding adventures through all of Latin America.

Thanks to the stealthiness of your truck, you’ve got plenty of options that are under the radar too… In urban or suburban areas, you might park in a Wal-Mart parking lot, in the lot of another 24-hour business like a gym or Denny’s restaurant. One of my back up plans is to park at an auto mechanic shop right between some old rigs waiting to be worked on.

Pro Tip: Getting a cheap gym membership is also a great way to have access to showers. Make sure to find a good national gym, like 24 Hour Fitness, with lots of different locations if you are planning to be living out of your truck and on the road.

Of course, those places aren’t why you’re getting out there, those are just options for “in-between” — the real draw is to find awesome places to camp in mother nature. My go-to is the many Federal lands that allow free and unfettered access to vehicle camping opportunities, namely the Forest Service or BLM lands.

Pro Tip: If you’re planning a national park road trip then be sure to pick up the America the Beautiful annual pass which will save you tons of money on park entrance fees. My tactic is usually to visit the parks during the daytime and then find nearby free camping.

The two best places to find free (or cheap) campsites across the country and beyond are freecampsites.net and iOverlander.com. These are the first places I go when I’m looking for an affordable place to spend the night in my truck.

Sometimes the free campsites are actually pretty awesome themselves — maybe not quite National Park caliber, but you’ll usually find some beautiful nature, maybe some hiking trails (certainly nearby), and maybe even a rustic bathroom.

Don’t let your taste for adventure cloud your judgment. Being in a safe and suitable spot for the night is the key to happy truck camping adventures. Trust me!

Not Thinking About Your Power Setup

Electricity is crucial when you’re out on the road, even if it just means keeping your camera, cellphone, and computer charged up and ready to go. One of the most unwise ideas you can have is thinking power issues can be addressed on-the-fly. You need to know how to get power from under your hood to the truck bed. Are you good with just having a cigarette lighter hooked up in the canopy and running on DC?

You also need to determine how you’ll maintain power throughout your trip. The needs for someone just charging their cellphone are going to be totally different than someone running a mini-fridge back there. At the most basic level, you can charge devices off your main starter battery, but you should monitor it carefully and idle your truck at least once every one to two hours.

Do you know how much power you’ll need to use in an average day? What are you going to do about your car battery? Will you need to hook up a second battery and an isolator? Answer all these questions before hitting the road, otherwise, you’ll stare a major truck camping fail right in the face.

I would highly recommend getting a second battery and isolator installed though, as that will bring the worry factor about killing your starter battery and stranding you somewhere to nil. This was a huge upgrade for me and highly recommended.

Read more about getting a dual battery setup and isolator.

Getting Bad Gear

While truck bed camping doesn’t have the weight limits that backpacking or mountaineering entails, it is still important to consider the overall quality of your gear, the amount of space it takes up, and yes, at least consider the weight factor.

For one, you will still be camping, so quality gear that will not break, leave you stranded, hungry, cold, miserable, etc., is important.

Two, space is still limited in the back so if you buy bulky, cheap gear, you might quickly find that your living quarters have been drastically reduced. High-quality camping gear, especially of the backpacking slant, tend to be much more portable than their cheap counterparts.

Three, weight is still a consideration… Overpacking with heavy or bulky gear is going to impact your fuel economy at best, and at worst, it could cause complications for your suspension (especially if you overbuilt the back as discussed above).

That’s why it is still important to try and buy the best gear you can and try to ensure that most or many things can be multi-functional.

I’ve put together a massive guide about all the gear that I use, so be sure to check out my recommended truck camping gear and accessories. Don’t neglect fundamentals of your truck either…

That means a high-quality canopy (I use the Leer 122, but any elevated topper will do) and even nice tires that offer high clearance (I use the BF Goodrich T/A KO2s and love ’em).

Read more: my favorite truck camping accessories

Become a Better Truck Bed Camper

These eight truck bed camping mistakes are certainly avoidable. It just takes a little forethought and common sense, really. Plus, you’ve got the advantage of learning from my mistakes or the mistakes that I’ve seen others making in my years of truck bed camping experience.

Honestly, truck bed camping is one of the best and most affordable ways to get out there, travel more, and find more adventure, so it’s something that I recommend to almost anyone (who will listen to me).

If you are looking to take your truck camping to the next level, don’t miss out on signing up for my free email course with more hard-earned truck camping knowledge:

Read Next: The Ultimate Road Trip Planning Guide

Share This

Did you enjoy this post about the biggest truck bed camping mistakes and fails? Take a second to share it on Pinterest, Facebook, or Twitter. Thanks!

Sharing is caring!

Bald eagles are apex predators in North America and have been known to attack and eat small animals, including cats. While eagles typically go after prey that is sick or wounded, they have been known to attack healthy animals if they are hungry enough. If you have a cat that spends time outdoors, it is important to be aware of the risk of an eagle attack. There are steps you can take to protect your cat, including keeping it indoors or supervising it when it is outside.

Because the Bald Eagle has powerful hooked beaks and large claws, cats can be killed by one of its large claws or beaks. In general, bald eagles will not target cats. When the bird catches fish out of the water with its talons, it will use its prey to pull it from the water. Despite their lack of aggression, bald eagles are not considered dangerous to humans. Preyers can kill bald eagles, but they are more likely to kill their eaglets or eggs. Bald eagles have been killed when they perch on power lines in the past. Although the Bald Eagle is not endangered, it is protected by a variety of federal laws and regulations.

Bald eagles were granted protection by the Continental Congress in 1777. If old forests where Bald eagles can often live are removed, they will most likely no longer be able to find a home and will die. It is illegal under the 1972 amendment to the United States Constitution to kill a Bald Eagle. It is possible to be fined $5,000 or imprisoned for up to one year for the same offense. If you are caught twice, you will face a $10,000 fine and two years in prison.

How Heavy Of An Animal Can A Bald Eagle Pick Up?

What are the Heaviest Eagle Hunting Calls? A bald eagle can travel up to 7 pounds if it is in good health. Even with larger eagles, they can only carry 12 to 13 pounds at a time, making them nearly impossible for larger eagles to lift.

How much weight can an adult bald eagle carry? A bald eagle carries a large stick, as seen by photographer Alex Lamine on November 4th, 2015 at Berry College. Mr. North dropped an unknown object of unknown weight from the ground on November 6, 2019, despite the fact that it appeared to be more than he could lift from the ground. As the air pressure rises and the wind picks up, the ability to take off and stay airborne increases, all of which affects the ability to fly and then stay airborne at the same time. The FAA points out that center of gravity deviations of less than three inches can have a significant impact on handling characteristics of fully loaded aircraft. A few of Neil Rettig’s observations from filming bald eagles along the Mississippi river were shared. According to Jim, eagles can lift even more in high winds.

Bald eagles are commonly thought to weigh less than 50-60% of their body weight. A bald eagle should have a body weight of 10%. If the incentives and flying conditions were optimal, the aircraft may have a greater capacity. With a weight of 108%, eagles can carry or glide. Among birds with males, the American kestrel has 145%, the Pallas’ Fish Eagle has 160%, and the tiny Calliope Hummingbird has 116%. DM2 took the fight to the Berry College girl after Mr. North and the Berry College male both failed. After he dropped the stick, it was much easier for him to lift from the ground. DM2 appeared to glide down rather than lift up, carrying him right into the nest, and his giant stick appeared to carry him all the way.

The worst nightmare for birds is when they come into contact with dogs. According to the National Wildlife Federation, eagles are not afraid to lift a dog up to 15 pounds, and they frequently do so. They are known for their incredible hunting ability, which is attributed to their strength and agility. Hawks, including eagles, eat dogs the most. The dogs, as small and weak as they are, are easy prey for predators. Birds of prey have become more common in urban and suburban areas, posing a threat to humans and their pets. They are magnificent birds capable of catching a lot of food, and they are powerful and powerful birds. The eagle is a predator, capable of catching and carrying small animals in addition to catching and carrying small prey. Make sure your dog is kept indoors and kept in close observation if you are concerned that he or she will be snatched by an eagle.

What Bird Can Pick Up A Cat?

There is no definitive answer to this question as it depends on the size and strength of the bird in question. Generally speaking, however, most birds would not be able to pick up a cat due to the size difference between the two animals. There have been isolated incidents of birds carrying off small kittens or cats, but this is rare and would likely require an exceptionally large and strong bird.

When a cat is looking for something, it is referred to as an opportunistic hunter. Birds, mice, rats, and other small vertebrates will all be consumed by these creatures. It is critical that a cat bite into an animal’s neck as soon as possible in order to kill it. The bite will break the spine, crush the trachea, or sever the carotid artery, all while snapping your neck. The cat will begin its hunt by stalking its prey. It will keep an eye on the bird while lowering itself to the ground. The cat usually advances quickly on the bird. When the cat reaches its range, it will leap at the bird, aiming its palm at it as it pounces.

Large owls are thought to have carried away cats in the past. Because cats and owls are nocturnal creatures, they are more active at night. Although it is extremely unlikely and very rare, large owl species are said to have carried away cats. It is common for owls and cats to spend the majority of their time in the dark at night. In general, owls are the primary prey for small dogs and cats under the age of 20 pounds. Despite the anecdotal evidence, it is not something that should be taken lightly, despite the fact that this is a highly unlikely occurrence. The owl and cat should not be treated lightly and should not be overlooked as predators capable of causing significant harm.

Cats Are Safe From Being Picked Up By Hawks, Bald Eagles, And Ravens

Cats cannot be picked up by a raven, hawk, or bald eagle because they are too small. In general, crows can catch and pick up a small cat, but this is unlikely because after catching the cat, the crow can move on to another prey.

Do Bald Eagles Attack Pets?

Small dogs and puppies, particularly toy or miniature breeds, are especially vulnerable to being attacked by birds of prey, according to The Spruce Pets. Large raptors are known to prey on animals weighing up to 20 pounds as part of a hunt.

Experts tell me that an eagle almost never attacks your dog. Bald eagles can carry up to three pounds in weight, with one to two pounds per animal. Eagle attacks on dogs weighing less than three pounds are not as common as they are on cats. Goldfinches, tree sparrows, and snow buntings are the most common birds to be seen on the roadside. Birds are typically in a body temperature range of 105 degrees F to 105 degrees F, and the more fluff they generate, the more air they expel. Are freeze-dried mealworms of the same type as live mealworms? In the winter months, there are fewer migrating birds and a few remaining in Duluth.

Birds consume fat on a daily basis in the winter to help protect themselves from cold weather. Because raw suet is available during the winter months, the plant is similar to what Mother Nature provides for mammals. You can also make homemade fatty treats and suet cakes, both of which are excellent.

What are some things that eat the bald eagle? Bald eagles, which are carnivorous animals, are not preyed upon in the wild. bobcats, wolverines, black bears, foxes, raccoons, and large birds are all common prey species for these young. Farmers, hunters, and ranchers have all tried various methods of removing these predators, but they remain a problem. Scarecrows are said to deter eagles from using an area for a short period of time, typically three weeks. If dogs are aggressive toward predators, they may repel eagles. Hazing with aircraft has a limited economic value and must be approved by the Director of the United States Fish and Wildlife Service (USFWS). Despite its status as the national bird of the United States, the bald eagle is vulnerable. We must all work together as a nation to make certain that these birds are protected, which is why the US Fish and Wildlife Service is working to protect them.

Bald Eagles: Don’t Let Your Pets Become A Meal

Birds, according to Gail Buhl, education manager at the Raptor Center, are typically fed fish or other birds, but puppies and kittens can also be fed to eagles. Despite the fact that bald eagles can pick up small puppies, they are not capable of carrying them very far and may sustain injuries if they fall. It is unacceptable to leave your pets outside without your supervision.

Do Eagles Attack Pets

Do eagles attack pets? It is possible for an eagle to attack a pet if the animal is small enough and the eagle is feeling particularly threatened or hungry. However, attacks on pets are not common and typically only occur if the eagle is unable to find other food sources.

Birds, unlike venomous reptiles and spiders, can be just as dangerous for small pets. A razor-sharp eagle‘s nacelle is capable of impaleing prey at a rate of 400 pounds per square inch. When diving, a bald eagle can reach speeds of up to 100 miles per hour. An eagle can attack a dog weighing less than ten pounds at the most dangerous time. If an eagle attack is severe enough, the treatment and prognosis will be determined. In most cases, the dog will not survive unless it has only suffered minor puncture wounds. If your dog is struck by an eagle, there is a chance he will be injured, most likely by breaking bones, concussions, or organ damage.

Cover your dog’s outdoor enclosure if it is located near an eagle or other predatory bird. Small dogs may benefit from wearing protective gear like the puncture-resistant Raptor Shield in order to avoid being attacked by eagles. A short, non-retractable leash is best for playing outside and potty breaks.

The Beagle, on the other hand, may act on its own in response to perceived threats to its safety or to the Beagles’ perceptions of cats as prey. Even if the Beagles are unfamiliar with cats, they may still attack if they are cornered or threatened. Beagles have been accused of attacking cats out of instinct, despite the fact that they have never met cats before. As a result, both the cat and the Beagle may be harmed or even killed. It is critical to remember that even if your Beagle is friendly with cats, it will occasionally attack if threatened or cornered. If you are concerned about your cat’s safety, it is best to keep them separate from the Beagles.

Eagle Attacks: How To Keep Your Pets Safe

As a result, if eagles are in the area, keep your cat indoors during times when it is safe to do so. If you see an eagle in the area, keep your dog on a leash and keep your children away from it.

Do Bald Eagles Eat Rabbits

Some Bald Eagles eat primarily fish; others consume other birds such as gulls and geese, depending on their environment. Some mammals, like rabbits, lambs, and, yes, even adorable kittens, are more common than others on the menu.

Small animals and birds, such as rabbits, hares, grouses, and ptarmigans, are frequently eaten by eagles. A bald eagle can eat both fish and birds, such as ducks, geese, and puffins. Birds such as Golden eagles are common preyers of ducks, but adult owls are rarely targeted in hunting. Birds such as hawks, eagles, and other owls have been observed preying on owls. Birds are naturally enemies of one another, as is the case with eagles and hawks. Birds, like owls, will hunt hawks in order to find nesting sites, and eagles will hunt hawks as well. Bald eagles are capable of preying on cats, whereas most bald eagles are carnivores who primarily consume fish.

Young foxes, as well as full-grown foxes, are also preyed upon by eagles. It is a carnivore that eats rodents, other birds, and snakes. Bald eagles can weigh up to 7 or 8 pounds when they are at their best. Even the world’s largest eagles cannot carry more than 10 or 12 pounds at a time, but a small eagle can carry more than that.

Bald eagles are preyed upon by anglers, and they can be found in high numbers when there are a lot of fish. In addition to seabirds and ducks, small mammals like rabbits, squirrels, prairie dogs, and muskrats can be found on grasslands and marshes. Even though Tuesday’s feline feast may have been shocking or disturbing to some viewers, there are many good reasons to keep your cats indoors, such as “they might get slaughtered and eaten by eagles.”

Do Eagles Eat Rabbits?

Can eagles eat carrot? They consume rabbits. Adult rabbits, even those with small screech owls, can quickly be overwhelmed by the large barn owls, barred owls, hawk owls, or great horned owls that live nearby, even if they are not hunting. What types of rabbits do eagles eat? Cottontail rabbits (Sylvilagus spp.; hereafter, cottontails) are among the most commonly identified prey items in the diets of golden eagle breeding in the western United States (U.S.). What does a hawk eat besides spiders? Other birds are primarily eaten by Cooper’s Hawks, but if prey appears, they will consume squirrels, rabbits, and rodents. A Cooper’s hawk, unlike other raptors, kills by repeatedly squeezing its prey with its powerful talons, unlike other raptors that kill by grabbing their prey and biting the heads off.

Do Bald Eagles Eat Chickens

When the eagle is gliding down, it unfurls its hand-like claws, scoops up a chicken, and then circles up a branch to eat, with the larger bird laying the smaller bird on the branch for easy eating. The eagle’s beak is quite effective at removing the meat of other birds, but it is unknown when the chicken dies.

Bald eagles are on the loose at White Oak Farm in rural Georgia every winter. With little time and resources, the farmers are racing to adapt. One of the largest pasture flocks can be found here in White Oak. Approximately 60,000 birds wander the land on a regular basis, as long as the land is pasture-raised. Gary Harris sought assistance from the National Audubon Society in dealing with the birds. White Oak Pastures, a 2,500-acre farm in Georgia, raises pigs, chickens, cattle, pigs, sheep, goats, and many other animals. Because the animals move across the land and their droppings help fertilize it, this arrangement benefits both birds and ruminants.

The chickens also consume bugs found in cow dung, reducing the number of pests that can affect the cattle. We sell our products in Whole Foods in major cities throughout the southeastern United States, including Miami, Florida, and Princeton, New Jersey. It also owns an organic produce farm, small eggs, honey, and pet treats. Harris opened two abattoirs in 2007 and 2011 for a total cost of $7.5 million. However, Harris claims that the eagles are good for business, despite their irrationality. Visitors to the farm’s cabins were drawn in by a Facebook photo of the birds. A Bald Eagle can land in the middle of dozens of chickens and continue to pecking as if nothing had happened.

Daniel Coady claims that the chicken mortality rate at the farm is excessive. When chicks are scared, they flock into a corner of their house, all of which are huddled together in a panic. A $5,000 investment has been made by the farm to purchase noisemakers that must be manually set off between dawn and dusk. The eagles, on the other hand, may provide some financial relief as a result of their financial strain. In Bluffton, Georgia, White Oak Farms is one of the country’s largest privately owned poultry operations. According to Harris, if everyone farmed his land in the same manner that he does, eagles would likely go extinct and be replaced by more healthy populations. Nature’s rejection of monocultures explains why Harris transformed White Oak, according to his account.

How To Protect Your Chickens From Raptors

Birds are more likely to survive if they are kept in a wooded area with hawks and eagles hunting nearby. Using a mesh or solid roof to cover your run will also help keep the birds safe. If you have chickens that are free range, keep them in a secure location when needed.

Do Golden Eagles Eat Cats

Birds frequently eat cats, but rarely. Despite the fact that eagles are meat eaters, they also consume carrion. Fish is the most popular dish, followed by other birds and wildfowl.

Cats are occasionally eaten by eagles, though this is usually by females. Their preferred cuisine is fish, in addition to other birds and wild fowl. Flying an eagle can take it to heights of up to 15,000 feet. It takes about 35-40 miles per hour to cruise. Birds are aerial pirates in the wild, forcing other prey birds to give up their prey. Their greatest threat is man, and eagles nest and hunt far from human habitation. Except for some vultures, the size of an eagle is significantly greater than that of any other raptor.

A bird that swoops and carries its prey is the most common method of bird watching. The only hope for survival for an eagle after it has its talons drawn into its prey is to fall to the ground. An eagle can lift and fly away with an average weight of 4 pounds. The eagles have been observed preying on cats in the past, but this behavior is uncommon among this type of raptor. Birds are not a threat to cats living in urban or suburban areas.

Small dogs, particularly Chihuahuas and Toy Poodles, are prone to being killed by predatory birds. The majority of predatory birds seek out wild mammals for food, but small dogs may also be targeted. Despite the fact that a golden eagle can kill a man, it has never preyed on an adult human. Small dogs, particularly those that are small, such as Chihuahuas and Toy Poodles, are particularly vulnerable to predators. Adult humans are the only ones who have ever been preyed upon by golden eagles, despite their lethal strength.

Deer hunting rifle opinions are one of the most favored talked about conversations in the hunting community. And honestly it should be as choosing the right caliber is incredibly important when going after a whitetail.

A lot of hunters prefer larger calibers like the .30/30, the .30/06 or the 7mm; however, there are some out there that favor something a bit smaller. As a result, the .223 rifle has become an increasingly popular choice for deer hunting in recent years.

So if you’re asking if you can kill a deer with a .223, the answer is yes!

In this blog, I’m going to discuss the reasons why hunters choose to use a .223 rifle for deer hunting, as well as some tips for getting the most out of this versatile firearm. Let us know what caliber you’re going to use this year in the comments section below.

A Little Bit About The .223 Cartridge

The .223 cartridge, also known as the 5.56x45mm NATO, is a small-caliber, high-velocity round that was first introduced in the 1960s. While originally designed for military use, the .223 cartridge has since become popular with hunters due to its light recoil, flat trajectory, and high velocity. The .223 cartridge typically fires a 55-grain bullet at velocities of around 3,000 feet per second, making it an excellent choice for long-range shooting.

.223 Bullet Weight and Velocity Chart

Bullet Weight (grains) Velocity (feet per second) 40 3,800 45 3,500 50 3,400 55 3,200 60 3,100 62 3,000 69 2,900 77 2,750

Pros Of Using A .223 Rifle For Deer Hunting

While some hunters prefer larger caliber rifles, there are several advantages to using a .223 rifle for deer hunting. One of the main advantages is that the .223 rifle is lightweight and easy to carry, making it an excellent choice for hunters who need to cover a lot of ground during a hunt. Additionally, the .223 cartridge has a flat trajectory, which means that it retains its velocity over long distances and is less affected by wind drift than other cartridges.

Another advantage of using a .223 rifle for deer hunting is that the light recoil of the cartridge makes it easier to shoot deer accurately, especially for younger or less experienced hunters. This can be a major factor in improving a hunter’s success rate when hunting deer.

Source

Tips For Deer Hunting With A .223

When using a .223 rifle for deer hunting, there are several important tips to keep in mind to ensure success. First and foremost, it’s important to select the right bullet for the job. While the .223 cartridge is capable of taking down a deer, it’s important to use a bullet that is designed for hunting, such as a soft point or hollow point bullet. These types of bullets are designed to expand upon impact, delivering maximum energy to the target and ensuring a clean, ethical kill.

Another important consideration when using a .223 rifle for deer hunting is shot placement. The .223 cartridge is capable of delivering a lethal shot, but it’s important to aim for vital organs such as the heart and lungs to ensure a clean kill. This requires practice and precision, so it’s important to spend time at the shooting range to improve accuracy before heading out on a hunt.

Finally, it’s important to be patient when using a .223 rifle for deer hunting. While the cartridge is capable of taking down a deer, it may require more careful stalking and positioning to get into the optimal shooting position. This means taking the time to scout out the area, look for signs of deer activity, and wait for the right moment to take a shot.

What .223 Rifle Should You Pick For Deer Hunting

When selecting a .223 rifle for deer hunting, there are several excellent options to choose from. One popular choice is the Ruger American Ranch Rifle, which features a lightweight synthetic stock and a 16.1-inch barrel for easy maneuverability in the field. Another excellent option is the Savage Axis II XP, which comes with a mounted scope and an adjustable trigger for enhanced accuracy.

What’s The Difference Between A .308 vs .223 For Deer Hunting?

The main difference between a .308 and a .223 cartridge for deer hunting is their power and performance characteristics.

The .308 cartridge is a larger and more powerful round, typically firing a bullet in the 150-180 grain range at velocities of around 2,800-3,000 feet per second. The .308 has a higher bullet energy, greater bullet weight, and is capable of delivering more kinetic energy to the target than the .223. This makes the .308 a better choice for hunting larger game, including deer at longer distances, as it has greater stopping power and is more capable of taking down game quickly and humanely.

On the other hand, the .223 cartridge is a smaller and lighter round, typically firing a bullet in the 50-77 grain range at velocities of around 2,900-3,800 feet per second. The .223 has a lower bullet energy and lighter bullet weight, and is typically used for varmint hunting or target shooting. While the .223 can be used for deer hunting with appropriate shot placement and bullet selection, it is not recommended for larger game or longer distances due to its lower bullet energy and lighter weight.

In terms of recoil, the .308 generates more recoil than the .223 due to its larger cartridge size and more powerful load. This can make the .308 harder to shoot accurately for some shooters, particularly those with smaller frames or less experience with high-powered rifles.

Ultimately, the choice between a .308 and a .223 for deer hunting depends on a variety of factors, including the hunter’s experience and preference, the terrain and distance of the hunt, and the hunting regulations in the specific area. It is important to choose a cartridge that is appropriate for the size of game being hunted, and to select a bullet that is designed for hunting and will deliver effective and ethical results.

Most Important Things To Know About The .223

First, not every state allows you to deer hunt with a .223 rifle. According to StagArms, the following states have outlawed this:

Colorado, Connecticut, Illinois, Iowa, Massachusetts, Virginia, Ohio, New Jersey, Washington, and West Virginia

Additionally, when deer hunting with a .223 rifle, it is crucial that an appropriate bullet and shot placement is chosen to ensure an ethical and humane harvest.

While the .223 cartridge is capable of taking down deer-sized game with proper shot placement and bullet selection, it is important to choose a bullet that is designed for hunting, such as a soft point or hollow point, which will expand upon impact and transfer energy to the animal. It is also important to consider the distance of the shot, as the .223 cartridge is not recommended for long-range shots on deer.

Final Thoughts On Hunting With A .223 Rifle

And that pretty much wraps up all you need to know about the infamous .223. While the .223 rifle may not be the first choice for all hunters, it is a versatile and capable firearm that can be an excellent option for deer hunting in the right circumstances.

By understanding the capabilities of the .223 cartridge, selecting the right rifle and ammunition, and practicing good shot placement and patience in the field, hunters can increase their chances of success when using a .223 rifle for deer hunting. As with any hunting pursuit, it’s important to always follow local laws and regulations, prioritize safety, and respect the animal being hunted.

Do you know How Much Wind Is Too Much For Deer Hunting? Well we have found the answer!

<?xml encoding=”utf-8″>

Weed management is rarely at the top of anyone’s list of desirable to-dos. Bending over and pulling weeds is a lot of work, and it’s rarely a permanent solution. Spraying weed killer isn’t the best alternative since the chemicals aren’t good for grass or the pollinators that may land or feed on those weeds.

Instead of breaking your back or introducing harmful chemicals into your lawn’s ecosystem, consider smoking out those pesky plants with a weed torch. These handheld torches run on propane and focus a small but scorching flame on stubborn invasive weeds. This guide helps shoppers choose the best weed torch for a particular yard or garden.

We tested the following weed torches in our lawns, vegetable gardens, and ornamental landscape beds. Read on to find out how we selected these models, how they performed on our backyard tests, and which may be the best weed torch for your lawn and garden maintenance needs.

1. BEST OVERALL: Red Dragon VT 1-32C 25,000 BTU Mini Weed Dragon Torch
2. RUNNER-UP: Flame King YSN340K Auto Ignition Propane Torch
3. BEST BANG FOR THE BUCK: Flame King YSNPQ810CGA Propane Torch Weed Burner
4. BEST HEAVY-DUTY: Red Dragon BP 2512 SVC 400,000 Backpack Weed Torch
5. BEST FOR GRAVEL: Gaspony TB-PFP Power Flame Pro 500,000 Propane Torch
6. BEST FOR PAVERS: Flame King YSNPQ820S Wide Flame Propane Torch Burner
7. BEST FOR GARDEN: Houseables 20,000 BTU Weed Torch Propane Burner
8. ALSO CONSIDER: Ausail 50,000 BTU Weed Torch Propane Burner

How We Tested the Best Weed Torches

We set up our weed torch testing regimen to simulate real-world working conditions. We spent more than 6 hours, or an average of about 45 minutes per torch, in testing. In addition to the operational tests outlined below, we evaluated ease of assembly, operator comfort, effectiveness in killing weeds, and durability. After assembling each torch according to the manufacturer’s instructions, we installed fuel tanks, tested for leaks, and recorded the weight and dimensions of each unit.

We assigned specific areas of the lawn, vegetable garden, and landscape beds to specific torches and labeled the areas accordingly. Each area contained similar coverage of weeds and desirable plants, and the terrain was also comparable from one plot to the next. One at a time, we lit the torches and treated the assigned spaces. Walking at a slow pace, we passed the flame across any weed leaves and stems without stopping. The intense heat desiccated the green leaves, and there was no need to char them.

After the treatment, we evaluated the weed dieback and monitored for regrowth. We inspected each space 3, 7, and 14 days after the initial treatment. After recording the Day 14 observations, we treated each area a second time. Finally, we entered our observations on a scoring rubric to help clarify an overall evaluation and award recommendations for each tool.

Our Top Picks

We’ve identified and tested some of the best weed torches on the market. Our lineup includes compact tools, heavy-duty models, and high-powered torches for a broad spectrum of property types and users. Read the individual product reviews ahead to learn more about them and to find the best option for specific uses.

Jump to Our Top Picks

What to Consider When Choosing a Weed Torch

Between how a torch works and lights to its size and features, choosing this gardening tool does take a bit of background research. It’s important to understand how these tools function and to evaluate the area to be treated before scorching those dandelions. The following are a few important shopping considerations to keep in mind while searching for the best weed torch.

Lightweight vs. Heavy-Duty

There are two styles of weed torches: lightweight and heavy-duty. Lightweight weed torches, equipped with bent tubes that attach to a small 1-pound propane gas canister, are the more portable option. Heavy-duty torches are for large-scale jobs and have hoses that can connect to a full-size 20-pound tank.

Choosing between the two styles is really a matter of preference, but here are a few points to help decide between the two.

Lightweight torches

Pros

• Easily portable
• User-friendly
• Operate with lower temperatures

Cons

• Lack volume for extended use
• Do not use refillable tanks

Heavy-duty torches

Pros

• Offer plenty of volume for long burns
• Powerful
• May have adjustable flame
• Use refillable propane tanks

Cons

• Heavy and difficult to carry around
• May be noisy

Ignition Methods

There are generally two ways to light a torch: via built-in igniters or manual strikers.

Built-in igniters work similarly to the striker used to light a barbecue grill. They’re usually attached to the tube and feature a push-button spark. With the gas turned on, the striker safely lights the flame at the end of the tube. The pressure of the gas pushes the flame out to the end of the torch, and then it’s ready to kill weeds.

Manual strikers can be a little trickier to use. Similar to the strikers used in some high school chemistry classes, manual strikers need to be in proximity to gas when struck to light the flame. This could make some DIYers nervous, in which case a built-in igniter might be the better option.

Hose Length

When considering weeding tools, it’s important to think about the size of the area that needs to be treated. Most heavy-duty torches are meant to run on large 20-pound propane tanks, so hose length can affect maneuverability among the weeds. In general, a 10-foot hose is ideal. This length is long enough to cover a wide area, yet short enough to prevent the user from tripping or falling.

Those needing to cover a large area of land while using the torch may wish to purchase an additional cart or dolly to hold the heavy propane tank. The wheels will make moving it across the yard easier.

Bell

Some weed torches are equipped with a bell-shaped shroud at the end of the torch. This bell helps the torch to retain heat and direct the flame, creating a more efficient burn.

While efficiency is always a bonus, it’s not always necessary when it comes to weed torches. It might take a little longer to kill weeds using a lightweight model without a bell, but it’s usually only a difference of a few seconds.

A bell also helps shield other plants from the intense heat created by the flame. If the plan is to work with a torch around sensitive plants, consider a torch with a bell. Keep in mind, however, that using a torch of any kind in a mulch-laden flower bed is a bad idea.

Variable-Flame Control

The ability to control the flame is another important factor to consider when it comes to purchasing a new weed burner, as too much heat may cause the user to unintentionally burn valuable plants with a large flame. Plus, without an adjustable flame, users may run through a canister of propane before covering their entire yard.

Most of the products featured in this guide include control valves that can be dialed up or down to throttle the amount of fuel passing through the wand. Some heavy-duty torches feature boost handles that can temporarily increase the size and temperature of the flame. Simply squeeze the valve to increase the volume and pressure for tougher weeds and release it to return it to its normal setting.

Heat Rating

It’s important to review the heat rating for potential weed torches. Rather than using degrees Fahrenheit (which won’t describe output of the torch), torch heat ratings are quantified using BTUs, and there is a wide range of BTU ratings available.

Most weed burnersproduce at least 20,000 BTUs, which is plenty of heat for burning a weed. Heavy-duty models can produce up to 500,000 BTUs, which isn’t usually needed for common yard weeds. A torch that offers between 20,000 and 100,000 BTUs is often more than adequate.

Safety Features

As a general rule, weed torches aren’t inherently safe. They don’t have a safety valve, they produce lots of heat, and their nozzles get very hot. Gloves and safety glasses help protect users, but there simply isn’t much one can do to make a weed tool like this 100 percent safe.

Features such as built-in gas-control valves, built-in trigger starts, and hoses of safe lengths can reduce some of the risks involved in burning yard weeds. A built-in igniter ensures that the user’s hand is kept a safe distance away from the flame, while the gas-control valve helps throttle back the amount of flame the torch produces to keep things under control. Using a hose of proper length can prevent users from tripping.

Crucial safety tip: Never use a torch or flame of any sort to remove poison ivy. The oil that poison ivy produces (urushiol) is what causes skin blisters and other painful reactions. When the plant burns, that oil attaches to the smoke particles and can travel through airways and land on skin, causing potentially serious health hazards.

Tips for Using a Weed Torch

In general, a quick blast of heat will break down the cells that weeds need to grow, even if they don’t turn completely black. The best time to use a weed torch is on a wind-still day after a good soaking rain. While weed torches are safe if used properly, the soaked terrain will help reduce the risk of an accident, and low wind speeds help keep the flames controllable.

Always keep a hose or a bucket of water nearby while burning weeds, and remove leaves and debris from the area before torching the weeds. Leaves and debris will burn much faster than weeds, and passing over them with a lit torch can lead to an unintended fire in no time.

• A quick pass of heat is often enough to kill a weed without charring it to embers.
• Use on a calm day with no wind and after it has rained to torch weeds safely.
• Keep water on hand and remove leaves and debris before torching weeds.

FAQs

If you want more info about buying or using the best weed torches, read on for answers to some of the most frequently asked questions about these garden tools.

Q. How does a weed torch work?

Weed torches use propane-fueled flames to cook the cells inside of a weed, inhibiting its ability to use sunlight (or photosynthesis) for energy and growth.

Q. How hot do weed torches get?

Weed burners vary in their heat output, with some models producing more than others. Common torches range between 20,000 and 500,000 BTUs.

Q. Can a weed torch help with poison ivy?

Burning poison ivy is a bad idea. The oil in poison ivy, oak, or sumac that causes itchy blisters is called urushiol. If you burn these plants, the oil attaches itself to the smoke particles, which can land in your lungs and cause serious respiratory irritation.

Q. Do I need to reduce the weed to ash or simply brown it to destroy it?

Generally speaking, burning the weeds to charred ash isn’t necessary. Simply heating the plant for a few seconds until it wilts should be enough to destroy it.

Q. How do you start a weed burner?

Starting a weed burner is typically very easy. Start by attaching the propane to the wand, or the hose to the propane tank, depending on the model. Next, open the valve on the propane tank, if it has one. Then open the valve on the wand to let some gas pass through. Finally, press the built-in igniter or use a striker held (safely) near the nozzle while striking to light the weed torch.

Why Trust Bob Vila

BobVila.com has been a trusted resource for DIY information since 1996. Bob Vila has been America’s Handyman since 1979. As the host of beloved and groundbreaking TV series including “This Old House” and “Bob Vila’s Home Again,” he popularized and became synonymous with “do-it-yourself” home improvement. Over the course of his decades-long career, Bob Vila has helped millions of people build, renovate, repair, and live better each day—a tradition that continues today with expert yet accessible home advice.

The Bob Vila team distills need-to-know information into project tutorials, maintenance guides, tool 101s, and more. Our hands-on product reviews detail real-world results based on hours of thorough testing by subject-matter experts. These home and garden experts then thoroughly research, vet, and recommend products that support homeowners, renters, DIYers, and professionals in their to-do lists.