Swans are often seen as symbols of grace and beauty, but can these beautiful birds kill you?

The short answer is no. But swan attacks could lead to accidental deaths. Although swans are not typically aggressive, they can and will attack humans if they feel threatened or if their nest or young are in danger.

In this post, we’ll explore the potential dangers of swans and what you can do to stay safe around these majestic creatures.

From their surprising strength to their territorial nature, we’ll take a closer look at the “dangerous beauty” of swans. So whether you’re a bird lover, a nature enthusiast, or just someone curious about these fascinating animals, read on to learn more about the potential dangers of swans and how to avoid them.

Are swans dangerous?

Swans belong to the Anatidae family which also includes geese and ducks.

Swans are known to be graceful and elegant birds, but they can also be territorial and protective of their nests. While they generally do not actively seek to attack people, they may become aggressive if they feel threatened or if their young are in danger.

The swan is a giant bird and if it perceives a person as a potential threat, it may charge or chase them and even use its wings and beak to defend itself.

It is important to remember that swans are wild animals and should be respected as such. These waterfowl should not be fed by hand or approached too closely, particularly during breeding season when they are more likely to be defensive. Keep a safe distance from their nests and cygnets.

Generally, it is best to observe these beautiful creatures from a safe distance and not interfere with their natural behavior. While attacks on humans are not common, it is always best to err on the side of caution and respect the animals’ space.

Why do swans attack people?

Swans are graceful, attractive creatures that grace lakes, ponds, and other bodies of water with their presence. Despite their delicate appearance, these birds can turn aggressive when threatened or disturbed.

Nesting swans attack humans for various reasons, including territorial defense and protection of their young.

Swans such as mute swans are territorial animals, fighting tooth and nail to protect their nesting sites from any perceived threat, especially during the nesting season. These threats include humans approaching the swan too closely, especially when it is nesting or guarding its young cygnets.

When a swan perceives a human threat, it may hiss, honk violently, and even charge to frighten the human away from the swan nest or swan territory. If a person does not move quickly enough or tries to touch the cygnets, the swan may bite them to protect its brood.

Mistaken identification can sometimes lead to aggression toward humans. Swans are fiercely protective of their species, and they may confuse another bird species for one of their own, leading to assaults on people if they go too close.

The same is true for anything resembling a predator, such as dogs and other land mammals, whose movements resemble those of a coyote or fox attempting to steal eggs or prey on young birds. In these circumstances, the swan responds instinctively in defense and will attack if it feels threatened or endangered by what it considers an intruder.

Swans can also become hostile due to humans feeding them too much food near their habitat. This practice promotes overpopulation and rivalry for resources among the birds, which leads to aggressive behavior toward humans who approach them, anticipating more food.

Overfeeding the birds causes them to exhibit more defensive behavior and greater territoriality to preserve viable food sources from other birds that may compete for nutrition.

It is noteworthy that most reports of swans hurting people occur when the birds where antagonized or provoked. Additionally, swan injuries aren’t often serious and most of the time it is the bird hitting the human’s leg or arm with its wing joint.

Interestingly, the bones in swan’s wings are thinner than human bones, therefore it is more possible for the swan to hurt itself than hurting the human if it decides to attack.

What are the signs that a swan is about to attack?

A swan will display a few common warning signs when it is about to attack. It’s important to be aware of these cues so that you can take steps to protect yourself and others from a potential attack.

The first sign of an impending swan attack is aggression. A swan may become aggressive if it feels threatened or like its territory is being invaded.

The swan might start hissing, honking, and flapping its wings while rushing toward the intruder. It may also lower its head and open its beak wide to appear larger and more intimidating when facing off with an intruder.

Other signs that a swan is preparing to attack include stalking behavior and loud vocalizations. If the bird begins following someone or something for an extended period, this could indicate that it wants the person or thing out of its territory.

The same goes for loud honking or hissing coming from the bird. These vocalizations are usually meant as warnings to escape the area immediately or face the consequences.

If the warning signs have been ignored or go unnoticed by those in the vicinity of a potentially hostile swan, it may resort to physical violence to eliminate the intruder.

The show of aggression can include biting with their long necks, stomping with their webbed feet, smashing into objects (like boats), and even flying directly at people’s heads as they attempt to scare them off.

It’s important to remember that while these behaviors are often associated with aggression, they can also indicate fear in some cases.

Swans may become scared if they feel trapped or threatened by humans who don’t understand their boundaries. This means that it’s important for anyone who encounters one of these animals in the wild to pay close attention and give them plenty of space before it turns into hostility. It is also important to not approach a swan especially if it has cygnets.

It is important for adults to teach small children not to pet swans and other waterfowl at the river or lake. While most attacks don’t often result in serious injuries, but they can might their arm broken by the animal.

What to do during a swan attack?

If a swan is attacking you, it is important to try and remain calm and still. Do not run or make sudden movements, as this can agitate the attacking swan further. Slowly back away, keeping your eyes on the swan and giving it space.

Try to put something between yourself and the mute swan, such as a tree or a trash can.

If the female or male swan continues to be aggressive, seek assistance from a park ranger or other authority figure.

Can swans break human bones?

Swans have been widely thought of as dangerous animals that can break human bones. While they’re capable of aggression and defending themselves, there are no known cases of swans using their power to break a human bone.

Swans are usually more interested in pecking for food than attacking humans. These birds can and will use their strength if threatened. However, they rarely need to go beyond threatening behavior to intimidate or protect themselves from danger.

Can a swan bite your fingers off?

No, swans such as black swans may be big birds but they can’t bite your fingers off. Even though their bite force isn’t as strong as other animals, the bite from their sharp beaks can be painful.

Did a swan attack result in human death?

It’s extremely rare for a swan attack to result in human death. However, in 2012, 37 year old Anthony Hensley from Illinois drowned while trying to get to shore after being attacked by a swan.

If you are an avid outdoors enthusiast or a survivalist, you know that having the right gear is crucial to your success. One of the most important tools in your arsenal is a good bushcraft saw. Whether you’re camping, hiking, or backpacking, a bushcraft or survival saw can be incredibly useful for cutting firewood, clearing trails, and more. But with so many options on the market, it can be overwhelming to choose the best one for your needs. In this ultimate guide, we will explore everything you need to know about choosing the best bushcraft saw for survival and wilderness adventures.

What is a bushcraft saw?

Before we dive into how to choose the best bushcraft saw, let’s first define what it is. A bushcraft saw, or survival saw, is a type of saw that is specifically designed for use in the outdoors. It is typically smaller and more portable than a traditional saw, axe, or hatchet, making it easier to carry with you on hikes or camping trips. Bushcraft saws come in a variety of shapes and sizes, and they are often used for cutting through small to medium-sized branches and logs.

Why is having a good bushcraft saw important?

A bushcraft saw is a vital tool for anyone who spends time in the outdoors or in the wilderness. It can be used for a variety of tasks, including:

• Building shelter
• Gathering firewood
• Clearing trails
• Processing game
• Making tools and other items

Without a good bushcraft saw, these tasks can be extremely difficult, if not impossible, to accomplish. Having the right survival saw can make all the difference in a wilderness survival situation.

Best Bushcraft Saws for Survival

Now that you know what factors to consider when choosing a bushcraft saw, let’s take a look at some of the top bushcraft saws on the market:

Agawa Boreal21 Folding Bow Saw – EDITOR’S CHOICE – Best Bushcraft Saw – Overall

The Agawa Boreal21 Folding Saw is a versatile and durable saw designed for outdoor enthusiasts. The saw has a 21-inch blade that’s made from high-quality hardened stainless steel, making it tough enough to cut through hard wood and thick branches with ease. The handle folds and snaps into place during assembly, without even needing to touch the blade, and the trapezium-shaped frame geometry increases the range of motion while sawing. Additionally, it offers good clearance above the saw blade, allowing you to cut through larger logs without having to change the angle.

One of the standout features of the Agawa Boreal21 Folding Saw is its folding design. The saw can be folded down to a compact size, making it easy to carry in your backpack or pocket. When you need to use it, simply unfold the saw, and it’s ready to use. The saw also comes with a durable nylon sheath that makes it easy to store and transport.

This saw is also lightweight, coming in at 18.7 ounces. The only downside is that it’s a bit pricier than some of its competitors, but its quality construction, ease of use, and sharp cutting action might just pay off in the long run.

An alternative to the AGAWA folding bow saw is the Gerber Gear Freescape Camp Saw.

Corona RazorTOOTH Folding Saw – Best Budget-Friendly Bushcraft Folding Saw

If you’re looking for a reliable, efficient saw for your bushcraft trip, the Corona RazorTOOTH Folding Saw is an excellent choice. The Corona RazorTOOTH Folding Pruning Saw features a 10-inch blade that utilizes pull-back action. The saw blade’s 3-sided razor teeth easily cut through small to medium branches up to 6 inches in diameter. The replaceable curved blade folds into the handle and the saw features a safety lock to prevent accidental opening when not in use. The Corona RazorTOOTH Saw Folding Saw also has a comfortable, ergonomic grip that reduces hand fatigue and makes it easy to use for extended periods of time.

The Corona RazorTOOTH Folding Pruning Saw is a durable and affordable option for those on a budget. While it may not be suitable for heavy-duty tasks or thicker branches, it is a great choice for most wood-cutting tasks you’ll face in the wilderness.

Silky Bigboy Folding Saw – Best Survival Saw for Thicker Wood

If you anticipate the need to cut down larger branches or small trees on your next bushcraft trip, the Silky Bigboy Folding Saw may be the right bushcraft saw for the trip. The Silky Bigboy Folding Saw features a 14.2-inch curved blade made from premium Japanese steel. The laser-cut, extra large blade teeth provide efficient cutting of even dry, hardwood. The handle of the saw is rubber-cushioned for comfort and improved grip.

While it’s one of the larger folding saws on the market, the Bigbog saw weighs in at just 1lb. Overall, the Silky Bigboy Folding Saw is a high-quality saw that offers excellent cutting performance and durability. Its large blade size and curved design make it a great option for a variety of cutting tasks, and its lightweight and folding design make it easy to carry and store.

HME Pocket Chainsaw Survival Saw

The Hunting Made Easy (HME) Pocket Chainsaw is designed for convenience and portability. Its compact and lightweight design allows it to easily fold up for storage in a backpack or pocket. Heavy-duty nylon handles provide a secure grip to the 36-inch high carbon steel chain. The chain features bi-directional cutting teeth to help it tackle tough cutting jobs in the wilderness, allowing you to easily cut through branches and logs.

The HME Pocket Chainsaw is perfect for those who will need to cut wood but don’t want the weight or bulk of a larger folding saw or axe.

Sven Folding Saw

The Sven Saw is a classic camping and bushcraft saw that has been around for over 60 years. Available in either a 21-inch blade or a 15-inch blade, the Sven Saw features a unique, all-metal folded saw design. The saws fold into a compact, ruler-like form that’s just 1.5″ wide and 5/8″ thick. The Sven Saws are also very lightweight, with the 21″ saw weighing less than 14 ounces and the 15″ Sven Saw weighing 11 ounces. The Swedish steel blades are crafted to last for 15-30 years and can easily cut through trunks or branches for firewood, clearing trails, and more.

Factors to Consider When Choosing a Bushcraft Saw

When choosing a bushcraft saw, there are several factors to consider. Here are some of the most important ones:

Blade Types: Finding the Right Saw for Your Needs

The blade is one of the most important components of a bushcraft saw. There are several different blade types to choose from, each with its own strengths and weaknesses. Here are a few of the most common blade types you’ll encounter when shopping for a bushcraft saw:

• Crosscut Blades: These blades have teeth that are angled towards the handle, which makes them ideal for cutting across the grain of the wood. They’re typically used for cutting smaller branches and limbs.
• Rip Blades: Rip blades have teeth that are angled perpendicular to the handle, which makes them better suited for cutting with the grain of the wood. They’re typically used for cutting larger logs and branches.
• Combination Blades: As the name suggests, combination blades offer the best of both worlds. They have teeth that are angled towards the handle on one side and perpendicular on the other, making them versatile enough to handle a variety of cutting tasks.

Handle Materials: Comfort and Durability in the Wilderness

The handle of your bushcraft saw is another important factor to consider. It should be comfortable to hold, even after extended use, and durable enough to withstand the rigors of the outdoors. Here are a few of the most common handle materials you’ll encounter:

• Wood: Wooden handles are comfortable to grip and can be customized to fit your hand. However, they may not be as durable as other materials and can be prone to cracking or splitting over time.
• Plastic: Plastic handles are lightweight and durable, making them a popular choice for many outdoor enthusiasts. They may not be as comfortable to hold as other materials, but they’re typically very affordable.
• Rubber: Rubber handles provide a good grip, even in wet or slippery conditions. They’re also comfortable to hold and can be very durable. However, they may be more expensive than other handle materials.

Saw Size and Weight: Balancing Portability and Cutting Power

The size and weight of your bushcraft saw will also play a role in how well it performs in the outdoors. A larger saw will typically be more powerful and able to cut through larger logs and branches, but it will also be heavier and more cumbersome to carry. A smaller saw, on the other hand, will be more portable but may not have as much cutting power.

When choosing a saw, it’s important to find the right balance between size and weight. Consider the types of tasks you’ll be using your saw for, as well as how far you’ll need to carry it, to determine the best size and weight for your needs.

Folding vs. Fixed Blade Saws: Which One is Right for You?

One of the biggest decisions you’ll need to make when choosing a bushcraft saw is whether to go with a folding or fixed blade design. Both types have their pros and cons, so it’s important to weigh them carefully before making a decision.

Folding saws are typically more portable than fixed blade saws since they can be folded up and easily stored in a backpack or gear bag. They’re also generally safer to carry, since the blade can be folded away when not in use. However, folding saws may not be as durable or as strong as fixed blade saws, and they may not be able to handle heavy-duty cutting tasks.

Fixed blade saws, on the other hand, are typically stronger and more durable than folding saws. They’re often designed with larger, more powerful blades that can handle heavy-duty cutting tasks with ease. However, they can be more cumbersome to carry, and the blade is always exposed, which can be a safety concern.

Different types of Bushcraft Saws

Choosing the best bushcraft saw requires an understanding of the different types of saws available and how they can benefit your needs.

1. Folding Saw

Folding saws are one of the most popular types of bushcraft saws. They are compact and lightweight, making them easy to carry in a backpack or pocket. Folding saws typically have a blade that folds into the handle for safe storage and transport.

Folding saws come in a variety of blade lengths and tooth patterns, which can affect their cutting ability. Generally, they are ideal for cutting through smaller branches and logs. Some folding saws have aggressive teeth for cutting through thicker branches, while others have finer teeth for smoother cuts.

2. Bow Saws

Bow saws are another type of bushcraft saw that has been used for centuries. A bow saw is a type of frame saw that features a long, straight blade attached to a frame that is shaped like a bow. The main benefit of bow saws is their ability to cut through larger pieces of wood quickly and efficiently. However, they are larger and heavier than other types of bushcraft saws, making them less portable.

3. Pocket Chainsaw:

Pocket chainsaws are compact saws that consist of a chain with cutting teeth that is attached to two handles. They are designed to be compact and portable, so the saw can easily fit into a backpack or pocket.

Pocket chainsaws are very effective at cutting through branches nearly a foot in diameter. To use a pocket chainsaw or wire saw, you wrap the chain around the branch or material you want to cut and pull the handles back and forth to make the cut.

4. Wire Saw:

Wire saws are similar to pocket chainsaws, but instead of a chain, the wire saws are made of a length of wire with teeth or abrasive particles. They are very lightweight and can be rolled up for easy storage. The wire design limits wire saws to cutting smaller branches. Since the wire can break or become damaged over time, wire saws are not as durable as other types of bushcraft saws. However, they are an excellent choice for ultralight backpacking or emergency situations.

Each type of saw has its own advantages and disadvantages, so it is important to consider your needs when selecting a saw. When deciding on the best bushcraft saw for you, make sure to consider the portability, field serviceability, comfort, construction quality, and blade material/teeth composition of the saw. Ultimately, understanding these factors will help you make the best choice.

What is the difference between a folding saw and a pocket chainsaw?

The primary difference between folding saws and pocket chainsaws is their design and mechanism for cutting. Folding saws feature a saw blade that is typically hinged and folds into the handle, whereas pocket chainsaws consist of a chain with cutting teeth that is attached to two handles.

Folding saws come in a variety of sizes, with larger ones being better for cutting thicker branches and smaller ones being ideal for more precise cuts. Pocket chainsaws are great for cutting through thicker branches and logs, but they are not as precise as folding saws.

Maintenance and Care: Keeping Your Saw Sharp and Ready to Go

No matter which type of saw you choose, it’s important to take good care of it to keep it performing at its best. This means keeping the blade sharp and properly lubricated, as well as storing the saw in a dry, protected area when not in use. Here are some simple steps to keep your saw in top condition:

1. Clean the saw after each use. Use a damp cloth to remove debris from the blade, and also from the handle, if it’s made of wood.
2. Sharpen the blade regularly. A sharp blade is essential for efficient cutting and reduces the risk of injury. There are various methods for sharpening saw blades using files and stones, but you can also take it to a professional sharpener if you don’t feel confident in your own skills.
3. Inspect the saw for any signs of wear or damage. Look for broken teeth, loose screws, and warping of the blade. Repair or replace any parts that are not in working order.
4. Store the saw in a dry place. This will help prevent rust and other damage caused by moisture.
5. Oil the blade periodically. This will help keep it in good condition and also make it easier to cut with.

Sharpening your saw blade can be a bit tricky, especially if you’re not experienced with sharpening tools. One option is to take your saw to a professional for sharpening, but this can be expensive and time-consuming. Another option is to invest in a sharpening tool designed specifically for saw blades, which can make the process much easier and more affordable.

Taking proper care of your bushcraft saw helps to ensure it will perform its best in the field.

Final Thoughts About Bushcraft and Survival Saws

Choosing the best bushcraft saw requires careful consideration of several factors, including blade type, handle material, saw size and weight, folding vs. fixed blade design, and maintenance and care. It’s an important piece of bushcraft gear that is useful for a variety of bushcraft and building tasks.By weighing these factors carefully, you can select a saw that’s well-suited to your needs and will provide reliable performance in the great outdoors.

FAQs about Bushcraft Saws

Q: How do I maintain my bushcraft saw?

Answer: To maintain your bushcraft saw, make sure to clean it after each use, oil the blade to prevent rust, and store it in a dry place.

Q: Can I use a regular saw for bushcraft?

Answer: While a regular saw can be used for bushcraft, it is not ideal. Bushcraft saws are designed specifically for outdoor use and are more durable and portable than regular saws.

Q: How long should my bushcraft saw blade be?

Answer: The length of the blade you choose will depend on what tasks you will be using it for. A longer blade will allow you to cut through larger logs, while a shorter blade will be more portable.

Q: What’s the best blade type for a bushcraft saw?

Answer: The best blade type for your saw will depend on the types of tasks you’ll be using it for. Crosscut blades are generally better for smaller branches and limbs, while rip blades are better for larger logs and branches. Combination blades offer the best of both worlds and are often a good choice for general bushcraft tasks.

Q: Can folding saws handle heavy-duty cutting tasks?

Answer: Folding saws may not be as strong or durable as fixed blade saws and may not be able to handle heavy-duty cutting tasks as well. However, they’re typically more portable and easier to carry, making them a good choice for lighter cutting tasks.

Q: Can I sharpen my bushcraft saw blade myself?

Answer: Yes, you can sharpen your bushcraft saw blade yourself using a saw file or a sharpening stone.

What’s the best rifle scope for hunting you should be using this fall?

I think we can probably agree that choosing the best rifle scope for hunting can be a pretty difficult task, especially for those who are new to hunting or just don’t know a lot about hunting rifle scopes in general.

To start off with, there are so many different rifle scopes available on the market these days that selecting the right one can be overwhelming. Additionally, it can be difficult to cut through some of the marketing speak and hype out there in order to determine what stuff is worth your hard earned money and what rifle scopes you’re better off avoiding.

I’ve experienced a lot of that same frustration myself.

I’ve tried out literally dozens of different rifle scopes with varying results over the years. Though I’ve never owned a truly bad scope, I have purchased a few models that I felt were a waste of money and would would not recommend to others. Luckily, there are several high quality rifle scopes for hunters on the market today that provide exceptional performance both at the range and afield.

In this post, I share my picks for the best rifle scopes for hunting. Just buying one of these rifle scopes won’t guarantee that you’ll fill your tag this fall. However, the right scope can still provide an important advantage when you need it most and increase the odds that you’ll cleanly and ethically take the game you’re after.

Before we get started, here’s a disclaimer: some of the links below are affiliate links. This means I will earn a small commission if you make a purchase.

This commission comes at no extra cost to you. This helps support the blog and allows me to continue to create free content that’s useful to hunters like yourself. Thanks for your support.

Now that we’ve got that out of the way, let’s get started.

Feel free to scroll straight through the article, or click one of the links below to jump straight to the best rifle scopes for hunting in the specific category you’re looking for.

Most Versatile Rifle Scope For Hunting

Best Value Rifle Scope For Hunting

Best Rifle Scopes For Hunting Under $200

Best Rifle Scope For Hunting Under $300

Best Rifle Scope For Hunting Under $500

Best Rifle Scope For Hunting Under $600

Best Rifle Scope For Hunting Under $1,000

Best Rifle Scope For Hunting Under $1,500

Best Rifle Scope For Hunting Under $2,000

Best Rifle Scope For Hunting Under $3,000

Best Scopes For Hunting With An AR

Best First Focal Plane Scope For Hunting

Best “Smart” Rifle Scopes For Hunting

Most Versatile Rifle Scope For Hunting

Leupold VX-5HD 3-15x44mm

I’ll cut straight to the chase: I think the Leupold VX-5HD is the most versatile hunting scope currently available on the market. Not only that, but this is my favorite hunting scope. Full stop.

Why? First, it has fantastic glass and provides outstanding light transmission. Plus, the specific VX-5HD model I’m recommending here also uses an illuminated FireDot Duplex reticle. Basically, it’s a standard duplex crosshair with an illuminated red dot in the center that you can turn on and off.

It works just like a typical scope during the day, but you can turn on that illuminated reticle to aid in aiming during low light conditions. I’ve been in several situations where I had game come out during legal shooting light, but it was dark enough that I had trouble seeing the animals with my naked eye.

Fortunately, the light gathering capabilities of the VX-5HD are so fantastic that I could see much better while looking through the scope.

For example, I successfully and cleanly took a big blue wildebeest with my VX-5 on a recent hunt in Africa at dusk when it was so dark that I could not see the black crosshairs on his dark body. However, I just turned on the illuminated reticle, put the dot where I wanted to hit, squeezed the trigger, and he dropped in his tracks.

There’s no way I could have ethically or practically taken that shot with a scope that lacked the fantastic light transmission of the VX-5HD or without the illuminated reticle.

The Leupold VX-5HD also comes with Leupold’s CDS-ZL system. This is basically a custom elevation turret matched to your favorite hunting load. Once you install the new CDS-ZL2 dial, it’s a simple matter of turning it to the right range and doing your part as a shooter.

No more taping a bullet dope chart to the stock of your rifle or trying to determine the proper amount of hold over before you take a long range shot. If your target is 400 yards away, just set the custom elevation dial to 400 yards, hold the crosshairs exactly where you want to hit, and squeeze the trigger.

The VX-5HD also has a side focus parallax adjustment dial and a wide zoom range from 3x all the way up to 15x on the high end. This wide zoom range makes the scope well suited for basically any hunting situation you can think of from whitetail in thick timber, to open country antelope or mule deer hunts, or even elk up in the Rocky Mountains.

This scope is also really well built, tracks beautifully, has forgiving eye relief, and holds a zero exceptionally well.

To be fair, the Leupold VX-6HD line has a few additional features that some hunters really like. However, I own and have hunted with both and, in my opinion, the VX-5HD provides the best balance of size, weight, price, and the features that are most important to me.

I have a couple of 3-15×44 VX-5HD scopes on my traditional hunting rifles as well as a 1-5x20mm version on my .458 Win Mag that’s perfect for use on dangerous game at close range.

All in all, this is a fantastic rifle scope for hunting that provides high end performance at a surprisingly reasonable price. If that big buck or bull of your dreams steps out of the woods right at last light, you want a scope like the VX-5HD on your deer rifle so you can make that shot when it counts.

Key Features

• Weight: 19.7 ounces
• Magnification Range: 3-15x
• Objective Lens Diameter: 44mm
• Tube Diameter: 30mm
• Field of View: 38.3-7.7 feet at 100 yards
• Turret Click Values: .25 MOA
• Reticle Focal Plane: Second
• Parallax/Focus: Side adjusting parallax/focus knob
• Knob Style: Capped Windage & Custom Dial System-ZL Elevation (CDS-ZL)
• Illuminated Reticle: Yes

Pros

• Wide magnification range
• Excellent quality glass
• Illuminated reticle is perfect for low light situations
• Great balance of useful features without too many unnecessary “extras”

Cons

• On the heavy side
• Lacks throw level on magnification ring
• Higher price point

BUY A LEUPOLD VX-5HD SCOPE ON AMAZON HERE

BUY A LEUPOLD VX-5HD SCOPE AT OPTICS PLANET HERE

Best Value Rifle Scope For Hunting

Leupold VX-3HD 4.5-14x40mm

The Leupold VX-3HD scope is next up as my selection for the best value rifle scope for hunting. Leupold makes fantastic quality hunting scopes and their VX-3HD model (which replaced the old VX-3i) provides a good mix of useful features and high end glass in a relatively compact package that’s also available at a moderate price tier.

This scope uses a 1″ main body tube, which helps keep it light and compact. Scopes like this one with a 1-inch tube are easier to mount low to the bore, which facilitates a good cheek weld and gives the rifle a more streamlined profile that’s less prone to snagging on obstructions.

A 4.5x magnification at the low end is good for closer range hunting situations while a 14x magnification at the high end works great for checking targets at the range or for shots at longer range afield.

Speaking of which, the Leupold VX-3HD also comes with a coupon you can redeem with Leupold to receive a custom elevation turret matched to your favorite hunting load. They call this their Custom Dial System Zero Lock (CDS-ZL). After installing the new custom dial, just range the target, turn the dial to that number, and aim dead on. Furthermore, the ZeroLock system on that turret eliminates accidental dial movement.

Add it all up, and you’ve got a great hunting rifle scope with lots of useful features at a reasonable price point that should serve you well for many years of use afield.

Key Features

• Weight: 13.3 ounces
• Magnification Range: 4.5-14x
• Objective Lens Diameter: 40mm
• Tube Diameter: 1-inch
• Field of View: 19.9-7.4 feet at 100 yards
• Turret Click Values: .25 MOA
• Reticle Focal Plane: Second
• Parallax/Focus: Fixed at 150 yards
• Knob Style: Capped Windage & Custom Dial System-ZL Elevation (CDS-ZL)
• Illuminated Reticle: No

Pros

• Light and compact
• Good quality glass
• Removable throw lever on magnification ring facilitates rapid adjustments
• Lots of features with a reasonable price

Cons

• No parallax adjustment dial
• No illuminated reticle

BUY A LEUPOLD VX-3HD SCOPE ON AMAZON HERE

BUY A LEUPOLD VX-3HD SCOPE AT OPTICS PLANET HERE

Best Rifle Scopes For Hunting Under $200

Vortex Crossfire II

The Vortex Crossfire II is a great entry level rifle scope and is exactly what you need if you want a no frills rifle scope for hunting under $200 and don’t want to do a lot of shopping.

This scope is nitrogen filled so it’s is fog proof and waterproof. It also has multi-coated lenses that facilitate light transmission and clarity under a variety of circumstances.

This scope is available with the Vortex Dead Hold BDC reticle. At the maximum magnification, the hashmarks on the reticle provide 1.5 MOA, 4.5 MOA, and 7.5 MOA holdover points as well as 2 MOA, 4 MOA, 6 MOA, and 8 MOA windage hold marks.

While the Vortex Optics Crossfire II does not provide light transmission or image quality on par with some of the more expensive optics on this list, it’s still a capable hunting scope for those who don’t need a high performance optic. It’s also comes with Vortex’s lifetime warranty.

Make no mistake: the Crossfire II is perfectly adequate for typical hunting situations, especially for hunters on a tight budget.

Key Features

• Weight: 14.3 ounces
• Magnification Range: 3-9x
• Objective Lens Diameter: 40mm
• Tube Diameter: 1-inch main tube
• Field of View: 34.1-12.6 feet at 100 yards
• Turret Click Values: .25 MOA
• Reticle Focal Plane: Second
• Parallax/Focus: Fixed at 100 yards
• Knob Style: Capped
• Illuminated Reticle: No

Pros

• Light and compact
• Very reasonable price
• Perfect for a budget conscious hunter

Cons

• Lower image quality than the higher end scopes
• Restrictive eye box
• No parallax adjustment dial
• No illuminated reticle

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Burris Fullfield E1

While the Vortex Crossfire scope is often slightly less expensive, the Burris FullField E1 scope has a couple of advantages for hunters at a slightly higher price point. It still usually comes in under $200 though.

First, this scope uses slightly better quality glass than the Vortex Crossfire. It also uses the Burris Ballistic Plex Reticle that includes holdover points for various yardages. This is also a durable and well built scope, but comes with the Burris Forever Warranty in case something breaks.

With those things in mind, the Burris provides a good step up in performance for just a little bit more money than the Vortex Crossfire II.

Key Features

• Weight: 13 ounces
• Magnification Range: 3-9x
• Objective Lens Diameter: 40mm
• Tube Diameter: 1-inch
• Turret Click Values: .25 MOA
• Reticle Focal Plane: Second
• Parallax/Focus: Fixed at 100 yards
• Knob Style: Capped
• Illuminated Reticle: No

Pros

• Light and compact
• Very reasonable price
• Perfect for a budget conscious hunter

Cons

• Lower image quality than higher end scopes
• No parallax adjustment

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Best Rifle Scope For Hunting Under $300

Leupold VX Freedom 3-9x40mm

The Leupold VX-Freedom is another good rifle scope that’s an excellent choice for hunters on a budget. Leupold made a bunch of changes to their line of optics a few years ago and the VX-Freedom replaced the old VX-2 line of scopes. However, this update is a good thing and the VX-Freedom still incorporates the features people loved about the Leupold VX-2 with a handful of added improvements.

Like all Leupold rifle scopes, the VX-Freedom uses quality glass that’s coated to maximize light transmission and minimize glare and reflection. The glass on this scope is not quite as good as what you’ll find on the VX-3HD, VX-5HD, or VX-6HD, but it’s still really good (better than the Vortex Crossfire II).

Plus, the scope is even lighter and little smaller in profile than the VX-3HD.

The Leupold VX-Freedom also comes with a coupon you can redeem with Leupold to receive a CDS-ZL turret matched to your favorite hunting load. This facilitates shots at slightly longer range and a good rifleman should have no issues reaching out a bit on game if necessary.

Even so, this scope is better suited to short to medium range hunting scenarios. Hunters who plan on doing a lot of hunting in open country where encounters with game at longer distances are more likely should look to one of the higher end scopes on this list instead.

Even so, the VX-Freedom is a very capable rifle scope for hunting, especially since it’s available for less than $300.

Key Features

• Weight: 12.2 ounces
• Magnification Range: 3-9x
• Objective Lens Diameter: 40mm
• Tube Diameter: 1-inch
• Field of View: 33.1-13.6 feet at 100 yards
• Turret Click Values: .25 MOA
• Reticle Focal Plane: Second
• Parallax/Focus: Fixed at 150 yards
• Knob Style: Capped Windage & Custom Dial System-ZL Elevation (CDS-ZL)
• Illuminated Reticle: No

Pros

• Light and compact
• Very reasonable price
• Good quality glass
• Lots of features with a reasonable price
• Perfect for a budget conscious deer hunter

Cons

• Lower image quality than the higher end scopes
• No parallax adjustment dial
• No illuminated reticle

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Best Rifle Scope For Hunting Under $500

Vortex Diamondback 4-12x40mm

Next up is the Vortex Diamondback 4-12x40mm scope, which I think is the best rifle scope for hunting under $500. Vortex makes great quality hunting scopes and their Diamondback line provides a good mix of good quality glass in a rifle scope suitable for most hunting situations that’s also available at a moderate price tier.

The Vortex Diamondback uses a solid one-piece aircraft-grade aluminum alloy construction that makes this scope very durable and also offers good resistance to heavy recoil, even from magnum cartridges like the 7mm Rem Mag and 300 Win Mag. The Diamondback is also purged with argon to ensure it’s waterproof and fogproof.

Plus, it uses advanced fully multi-coated optics to deliver crystal clear images. This scope also uses Vortex’s Dead-Hold BDC reticle. At the maximum magnification, the hashmarks on this reticle provide 1.5 MOA, 4.5 MOA, and 7.5 MOA holdover points as well as 2 MOA, 4 MOA, 6 MOA, and 8 MOA windage hold marks.

This scope also uses a 1″ main body tube, which helps keep it light and compact. Scopes like this one with a 1-inch tube are easier to mount low to the bore, which facilitates a good cheek weld and gives the rifle a more streamlined profile that’s less prone to snagging on obstructions.

A 4x magnification at the low end is good for closer range hunting situations while a 12x magnification at the high end works great for checking targets at the range or for slightly shots at longer range afield.

Add it all up, and you’ve got a great hunting scope that’s right in that “sweet spot” where it doesn’t cost too much, but should also serve you well for many years of hunting use. This is the sort of scope the vast majority of hunters could buy today and happily use for the next 20-30 years without ever feeling like they needed something nicer.

Key Features

• Weight: 14.6 ounces
• Magnification Range: 4-12x
• Objective Lens Diameter: 40mm
• Tube Diameter: 1-inch
• Field of View: 32.4-11.3 feet at 100 yards
• Turret Click Values: .25 MOA
• Reticle Focal Plane: Second
• Parallax/Focus: Fixed at 100 yards
• Knob Style: Capped Windage & Elevation
• Illuminated Reticle: No

Pros

• Light and compact
• Good quality glass
• Good light transmission
• Reasonable price
• Durable construction

Cons

• No parallax adjustment dial
• No illuminated reticle

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Best Rifle Scopes For Hunting Under $600

Vortex Viper HS-T 4-16x44mm

The Viper line is the next tier of rifle scopes above the Diamondback line and below the Razor line from Vortex. As such, the Vortex Viper has better quality glass, better anti-reflective coatings, better overall construction, and a few more features than the Vortex Diamondback.

In that vein, the Vortex Viper HST (Hunting Shooting Tactical) is a very tough, well built hunting scope with fantastic extra-low dispersion glass, a forgiving eye box, exposed tactical turrets, and a side focus parallax adjustment dial that’s just a great all-around optical system. It’s not quite as nice as the Vortex Razor LHT (more on that scope shortly), but the Vortex Viper is still a darn good scope, especially considering you can pick one up for quite a bit less than $1,000.

All in all, the Vortex Viper HST is a fantastic hunting rifle scope that provides high end performance out to surprisingly long distances at a shockingly reasonable price.

Key Features

• Weight: 20.8 ounces
• Magnification Range: 4-16x
• Objective Lens Diameter: 44mm
• Tube Diameter: 30mm
• Field of View: 27.4-7.4 feet at 100 yards
• Turret Click Values: .25 MOA
• Reticle Focal Plane: Second
• Parallax/Focus: Side adjusting parallax/focus knob
• Knob Style: Exposed Windage & Elevation Dials
• Illuminated Reticle: No

Pros

• Wide magnification range
• Excellent quality glass
• Reasonable price for scope with great glass and lots of features

Cons

• On the heavy side
• Lacks throw level on magnification ring
• No illuminated reticle

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Best Rifle Scope For Hunting Under $1,000

Zeiss Conquest V4 3-12x44mm

European companies like Zeiss and Swarovski are known for producing outstanding quality optics in general. You tend to get what you pay for with that stuff though and European optics are also generally very expensive.

Fortunately, the Zeiss Conquest V4 is a great way to get a high quality European rifle scope for less than $1,000. This scope does not have a lot of “bells and whistles”, but it’s still an excellent German scope with great low light performance. Zeiss advertises that it uses six-layer multi-coated lenses to offer exceptional 90% light transmission and a clear sight picture.

This is not billed as an extremely lightweight hunting scope or one that’s ideally suited for long range hunting situations. However, the Conquest V4 is an outstanding choice for a hunter who wants a good rifle scope without paying for a bunch of extra features.

Key Features

• Weight: 22.5 ounces
• Magnification Range: 3-12x
• Objective Lens Diameter: 44mm
• Exit Pupil (low magnification): 14.66mm
• Exit Pupil (high magnification): 3.66mm
• Tube Diameter: 30mm
• Field of View: 19-4.8 feet at 100 meters
• Turret Click Values: .25 MOA
• Reticle Focal Plane: Second
• Parallax/Focus: Fixed at 50 yards
• Knob Style: Capped
• Illuminated Reticle: No

Pros

• Excellent light transmission at a reasonable price
• Very good quality glass
• Perfect for a hunter who wants a good scope without a bunch of “extras”
• Very durable

Cons

• Physically on the large and heavy side
• Smaller field of view
• No parallax adjustment dial
• No illuminated reticle

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Best Rifle Scope For Hunting Under $1,500

Vortex Razor HD LHT 3-15×42

Look no further than the Vortex Razor HD LHT if you want the best rifle scope for hunting under $1,500. This scope uses high quality glass, has a reticle with a center illuminated dot, a side parallax knob, and an exposed elevation turret with Vortex’s RevStop Zero System (their version of a a zero stop).

There’s a reason why Vortex Optics markets the Razor HD LHT as “one scope to rule them all” and this rifle scope is well suited for use in dark-timber on whitetails as well as for open country mule deer and pronghorn hunts where precision long range shots may be necessary.

The Razor HD LHT also comes with a coupon you can redeem with Kentron Industries to receive a custom elevation turret matched to your favorite hunting load to assist with making long shots on game and at the range.

Finally, the illuminated reticle is especially nice for use in low-light conditions where there’s still legal shooting light, but it may be too dark to see the reticle. Just turn on the illuminated center dot, place that red dot where you want to hit, and squeeze the trigger. The reticle also works just fine during the daytime when illumination is turned off.

If you want the a great scope for hunting, then strongly consider getting a Vortex Razor HD LHT.

Key Features

• Weight: 19.1 ounces
• Magnification Range: 3-15x
• Objective Lens Diameter: 42mm
• Tube Diameter: 30mm
• Field of View: 35.3-7.0 feet at 100 yards
• Turret Click Values: .25 MOA
• Reticle Focal Plane: Second
• Parallax/Focus: Side adjusting parallax/focus knob
• Knob Style: Exposed elevation turret (MOA)
• Illuminated Reticle: Yes

Pros

• Can order a custom elevation dial
• Excellent glass quality
• Illuminated center dot
• Well suited for a variety of hunting situations

Cons

• Busy reticle
• On heavy side

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Best Rifle Scope For Hunting Under $2,000

Leupold VX-6HD 3-18x44mm

The Leupold VX-6HD product line is Leupold’s top end hunting scope lineup and, at least in my opinion, the 3-18x50mm version of the VX-6HD is definitely Leupold’s best rifle scope for hunting overall.

This is because it uses outstanding glass with superior coatings that facilitates excellent light transmission. Plus, this particular scope also has an illuminated FireDot Duplex reticle. Just like the VX-5HD I mentioned earlier, the FireDot Duplex reticle is a standard duplex crosshair with an illuminated red dot in the center that you can turn on and off.

The VX-6HD is basically an upgraded VX-5HD with a wider zoom range (6x instead of 5 x magnification), a little bit better quality glass, and a couple of other extra features many hunters like having like a reversible throw lever, an electronic reticle level, and flip up alumina lens covers.

While I think the VX-5HD an absolutely outstanding rifle scope, those extra features and capability of the VX-6HD make it a better choice for other hunters who want a little bit better scope with slightly better low light performance, a couple of extra features, and who don’t mind spending a little bit more.

All things considered, the Leupold VX-6HD is an amazing rifle scope. This optic provides a substantial improvement in low light performance over the VX-Freedom and VX-3HD scope lines as well as a modest improvement over the VX-5HD overall.

You can definitely rely on the VX-6HD when the chips are down on a big hunt!

Key Features

• Weight: 21.6 ounces
• Magnification Range: 3-18x
• Objective Lens Diameter: 44mm
• Exit Pupil (low magnification): 14.67mm
• Exit Pupil (high magnification): 2.44mm
• Tube Diameter: 30mm
• Field of View: 38.3-6.4 feet at 100 yards
• Turret Click Values: .25 MOA
• Reticle Focal Plane: Second
• Parallax/Focus: Side adjusting parallax/focus knob
• Knob Style: Capped Windage & Custom Dial System-ZL Elevation (CDS-ZL)
• Illuminated Reticle: Yes

Pros

• Wide magnification range
• Excellent quality glass
• Illuminated reticle is perfect for low light situations
• Just about every feature you could want on a hunting scope

Cons

• On the large and heavy side
• Higher price point

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Best Rifle Scopes For Hunting With An AR Platform

Riton 3 TACTIX 1-8×24

The rise in popularity of the AR platform over the past few years has fortunately resulted in a dramatic increase in scope options specifically designed for hunting with those rifles. Don’t just slap any rifle scope on your AR-15 or AR-10 though.

Instead, you should use a scope like the Riton 3 TACTIX 1-8×24 LPVO (low powered variable optic) that will help you take advantage of the strengths of the AR platform while afield. Specifically, the Riton 3 TACTIX 1-8×24 is a reasonably priced, but feature rich rifle scope that’s great for those hunting situations.

With a 1-8x magnification range, the scope has a wide field of view that facilitates rapid target acquisition at lower power for close quarters work, but also provides ample magnification for longer ranged shots. It also comes with flip up lens covers and an illuminated reticle, which are uncommon features on scopes in this price range.

I especially like the illuminated reticle, which is great for low light performance and can be turned up bright enough to be useful during the day as well. This rifle scope also has a streamlined profile that allows it to be mounted close to the bore to facilitate a good cheek weld while shooting and minimize the chances of the scope getting hung up on vegetation or clothing.

This is the scope I hunt with on my AR-15 and it’s perfect for the job.

Key Features

• Weight: 19.3 ounces
• Magnification Range: 1-8x
• Objective Lens Diameter: 24mm
• Tube Diameter: 30mm
• Field of View: 105.8-13.1 feet at 100 yards
• Turret Click Values: .5 MOA
• Reticle Focal Plane: Second
• Parallax/Focus: Fixed at 100 yards
• Knob Style: Capped
• Illuminated Reticle: Yes

Pros

• Wide magnification range
• Wide field of view
• Removable throw lever on magnification ring facilitates rapid adjustments
• Overall design is perfect for quick target acquisition
• Lots of features for a reasonable price

Cons

• On the heavy side
• Non-traditional reticle

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Use promo code BIGGAME10 to receive 10% off orders directly from Riton.

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Vortex Strike Eagle 1-8x24mm

Vortex also produces a great scope for hunting with an AR-platform in the Strike Eagle 1-8x24mm. This rifle scope is also a LPVO that’s well suited for use on the AR platform while hunting (put it on your battle rifle too).

Specifically, the Vortex Strike Eagle 1-8×24 is a reasonably priced, but still low profile, capable, and feature rich scope that’s perfect for those hunting situations.

With a 1-8x magnification range, the scope has a wide field of view that facilitates rapid target acquisition at lower power, but also provides plenty of magnification for longer ranged shots. It also comes from the factory with a removable throw lever for rapid magnification adjustments and an illuminated reticle. This scope also has a streamlined profile.

Key Features

• Weight: 17.6 ounces
• Magnification Range: 1-8x
• Objective Lens Diameter: 24mm
• Tube Diameter: 30mm
• Field of View: 109.0-14.4 feet at 100 yards
• Turret Click Values: .5 MOA
• Reticle Focal Plane: Second
• Parallax/Focus: Fixed at 100 yards
• Knob Style: Capped
• Illuminated Reticle: Yes

Pros

• Wide magnification range
• Massive field of view
• Removable throw lever on magnification ring facilitates rapid adjustments
• Design is perfect for quick target acquisition
• Lots of features for a reasonable price
• Durable

Cons

• On the heavy side
• Non-traditional reticle

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Best Rifle Scope For Hunting Under $3,000

Swaroviski Z6i 2-12x50mm

We can’t talk about the best rifle scopes for hunting without mentioning Swarovski. Specifically, I think the Swarovski Z 6i 2-12x50mm scope is the best rifle scope under $3,000.

Swarovski optics are known for having some of the absolute best quality glass in the business. Just look through a Swaro rifle scope or binoculars and you’ll immediately see what I mean.

Well, the Z6i is one of their higher end scopes and uses incredible glass that provides outstanding transmission while at the same time minimizing glare and reflection.

The Swarovski Z6i also has an illuminated reticle that also facilitates aiming under dim lighting conditions. Users also have the option of adding a custom elevation turret for use at longer range. The wide zoom range combined with the with the large 50 mm objective lens also makes this a very flexible scope with a large exit pupil across a wide magnification range.

All things considered, it’s tough to argue with a combination of crystal-clear images, incredible light transmission, moderate weight, and those additional features that make the Swaro Z6i such an excellent hunting scope both for use during the middle of the day as well as at dawn and dusk when things are so challenging.

To be perfectly clear, the Z6i is about as far as you can get from a “cheap” or a “budget friendly” scope. However, you really get what you pay for with optics and this rifle scope is certainly no exception to that rule.

Not everybody needs a scope this nice, but the Swarovski Z6i is definitely a great option for someone who wants the best rifle scope for hunting possible.

Key Features

• Weight: 18.3 ounces
• Magnification Range: 2-12x
• Objective Lens Diameter: 50mm
• Exit Pupil (low magnification): 25mm
• Exit Pupil (high magnification): 4.16mm
• Tube Diameter: 30mm
• Field of View: 63-10.5 feet at 100 yards
• Turret Click Values: .25 MOA
• Reticle Focal Plane: Second
• Parallax/Focus: Fixed
• Knob Style: Capped Windage & Optional Custom Elevation Turret
• Illuminated Reticle: Yes

Pros

• Reasonable size and weight
• Outstanding quality glass
• Illuminated reticle
• Excellent image quality

Cons

• Higher price point
• No parallax adjustment dial

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Best First Focal Plane Rifle Scope For Hunting

Nightforce ATACR 5-25×56

With a gigantic 56mm objective lens and fully multi-coated ED glass, the Nightforce ATACR is another excellent addition to this list of rifle scopes for hunting. This scope also has a large 34mm main tube, exceptionally clear glass, and a zoom range from 5x all the way up to 25x on the high end that make it a good choice for long-range shooting.

The Nightforce ATACR also provides over 35 mils of elevation adjustment. This rifle scope is also available in first focal plane and second focal plane configurations. Plus, this scope is the very definition of durability too! For all those reasons, I think the ATACR is the best long range hunting scope.

So, this is the best rifle scope for you if you’re looking for something with excellent low light performance that you can also use to reach out to extreme ranges with.

Key Features

• Weight: 39.1 ounces
• Magnification Range: 5-25x
• Objective Lens Diameter: 56mm
• Exit Pupil (low magnification): 10.5mm
• Exit Pupil (high magnification): 2.2mm
• Tube Diameter: 34mm
• Field of View: 18-4.9 feet at 100 yards
• Turret Click Values: .25 MOA or .1 MRAD
• Parallax/Focus: Side adjusting parallax/focus knob
• Knob Style: Capped
• Illuminated Reticle: Yes

Pros

• Wide magnification range
• Optimized for long distance performance
• Illuminated reticle
• Exposed elevation turrets facilitate rapid adjustments
• Side focus parallax
• Unsurpassed low light performance
• Excellent image quality

Cons

• Large and heavy
• Expensive

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Best Rimfire Rifle Scope For Hunting

Leupold VX Freedom 3-9x40mm Rimfire

Though they’re not very popular for big game hunting, rimfire cartridges are extremely common in the hands of small game hunters and are also just a lot of fun to shoot at the range. With that in mind, Leupold optimized a version of their highly regarded VX-Freedom rifle scope for use with rimfire cartridges like the 22 Long Rifle (22LR), 22 Magnum (22 WMR), and 17 Hornady Magnum Rimfire (17 HMR).

This scope is basically just a regular VX-Freedom rifle scope with a fixed parallax at 60 yards to put it more in line with the most commonly encountered shooting ranges rimfire cartridges are used at. Plus, it has a special rimfire reticle to help the shooter with the appropriate holdover at various ranges.

Don’t worry: this scope is not caliber specific either and will work with basically any rimfire cartridge. Heck, you can even put it on a centerfire rifle and take longer shots with it if you want to.

Additionally, this rifle scope still has all the other features of the VX-Freedom with great glass, a durable and waterproof construction, and a lightweight and compact overall profile.

Add it all up and the Leupold VX Freedom Rimfire is without a doubt the best rimfire hunting scope and it won’t let you down. Put one of these scopes on your Ruger 10/22, Bergara B-14R, rimfire AR, or other rimfire rifle and hunt with confidence!

Key Features

• Weight: 12.2 ounces
• Magnification Range: 3-9x
• Objective Lens Diameter: 40mm
• Tube Diameter: 1-inch
• Field of View: 33.1-13.6 feet at 100 yards
• Turret Click Values: .25 MOA
• Reticle Focal Plane: Second
• Parallax/Focus: Fixed at 60 yards
• Knob Style: Capped Windage & Elevation Turrets
• Illuminated Reticle: No

Pros

• Light and compact
• Very reasonable price
• Good quality glass
• Lots of features with a reasonable price
• Perfect for a budget conscious deer hunter

Cons

• Lower image quality than the higher end scopes
• No parallax adjustment dial
• No illuminated reticle

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Best “Smart” Rifle Scopes For Hunting

Sig Sauer Sierra6BDX 3-18×44

The Sig Sauer Sierra series of rifle scopes utilize an innovative design that incorporates the SIG SAUER BDX (Ballistic Data Xchange) technology to provide a rapid, and load specific holdover that’s calibrated to the prevailing environmental conditions.

On one hand, this is a traditional rifle scope you can mount on a rifle and use just like any other. However, it really becomes a powerful hunting scope when integrated with the (free) Sig BDX app and/or with a BDX equipped rangefinder (sold separately).

When used together, the Sig Sauer Sirra 6 BDX can calculate an elevation holdover and wind hold for your favorite hunting cartridge out to 1,000 yards.

How does it all work?

First, build a ballistic profile for your chosen hunting cartridge in the app, link your scope to your rangefinder and smartphone via Bluetooth, and sight the scope in properly with that load.

Next, use a BDX equipped rangefinder to measure the range to the target. The rangefinder will also measure the current temperature and altitude, will automatically calculate the appropriate ballistic solution and holdover for that exact distance and environmental conditions, and will transfer that data to the scope instantly via a Bluetooth connection. The rangefinder does not measure wind speed or direction, but the user can enter that information manually in the app to calculate a wind hold as well.

Then, the scope will display an illuminated dot in the reticle that indicates the appropriate elevation holdover (and an additional dot indicating a wind hold if the user entered that information in the app).

Finally, the hunter just needs to place the reticle (which is an illuminated dot) on the spot they want to hit on the target and squeeze the trigger.

This whole system can calculate a ballistic solution out to around 1,000 yards (depending on the exact rifle/cartridge/bullet combination). Fortunately, this rifle scope will likely calculate a ballistic holdover at basically any reasonable range for most centerfire rifle cartridges.

Additionally, it’s important to note that this scope will NOT automatically turn the user into someone capable of shooting targets or game at 1,000 yards. Yes, it can make it a whole lot easier to calculate a ballistic holdover, but there’s more to being a good marksman than that.

It’s also important to note that this is not the best hunting scope for everyone. First, it requires a little bit of tech “know how” and practice to get everything working together.

This scope also requires the use of some specific rangefinders and a ballistic app for maximum utility (it can be used alone, just not to its full potential). It’s also not legal to hunt with in every single place. For instance, it’s definitely illegal in Idaho along with potentially a couple of other places, so check the rules in your area before purchasing.

Furthermore, some hunters just don’t like scopes like the Sierra 6 (or the Burris Eliminator that’s up next) because they think it’s unethical or will encourage hunters to take shots at ranges they should pass on.

Furthermore, this is a battery powered scope (uses 2 CR2032 batteries) and will not work if the batteries die. And to further emphasize the point, it also relies on a Bluetooth connection with a phone and/or rangefinder to make full use of all the scope’s capabilities.

While not gigantic, the Sig Sauer Sierra 6 is also on the heavy side.

Additionally, since it has those electronic systems inside, the Sierra 6 has lower quality glass than is the case with traditional rifle scopes at a similar price point.

With all that said, I’ll be the first to admit that the Sig Sauer Sierra 6 is not the best hunting scope for everyone. However, I still think it’s worth further investigation for those who appreciate its capabilities (especially at longer ranges) and who hunt in places where it’s legal.

Key Features

• Weight: 23.8 ounces
• Magnification Range: 3-18x
• Objective Lens Diameter: 44mm
• Tube Diameter: 30mm
• Field of View: 34.9-5.8 feet at 100 yards
• Turret Click Values: .25 MOA
• Reticle Focal Plane: Second (digital)
• Parallax/Focus: Side adjusting parallax/focus knob
• Knob Style: Capped
• Illuminated Reticle: Yes

Pros

• Rapidly calculates ballistic holdover
• Increases ethical range of hunter
• Comes with removable throw ring to facilitate rapid magnification adjustments

Cons

• On heavy side
• Lacks exposed elevation turrets
• Requires batteries
• Can be used as a “stand alone product” but requires use of app and special rangefinder for full utility
• Not legal in every state
• Lower optical quality than similarly priced hunting scopes

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Burris Eliminator IV

The Burris Eliminator is perhaps the most advanced hunting scope currently available to the average hunter. Why is this the case?

Well, the Eliminator is a rifle scope with a built in rangefinder, ballistic calculator, and inclinometer. Prior to the hunt, just plug in the ballistic data for your chosen hunting cartridge and sight the scope in properly with that load.

Once that’s complete, the hunter only needs to aim at the target (or animal) they want to shoot and push a button to activate the built in rangefinder. After measuring the range to the target, the scope will automatically calculate the appropriate ballistic solution and holdover for that exact distance and adjust the reticle within the scope accordingly.

At that point, the hunter just needs to place the reticle (which is a bright red dot) where they want to hit and squeeze the trigger.

This scope can measure ranges out to 2,000 yards. This is a hunting scope though and it will not calculate a ballistic solution out that far. The details really vary and depend on the cartridge in question, but this rifle scope will likely calculate a ballistic holdover at basically any reasonable range for most centerfire rifle cartridges.

Additionally, though this scope can indeed greatly assist in quickly making a shot at extended range, it’s important to note that it will NOT turn a poor marksman into an expert.

The capabilities this scope has are impressive, but this is also a somewhat controversial rifle scope. For one thing, the Burris Eliminator IV is not legal to use everywhere (Idaho being a notable example of where it’s illegal). Other sportsmen are uncomfortable with just how easy this scope can make it for someone to shoot at extended range out of fear that it’s unethical or will encourage hunters to take shots they have no business attempting.

Furthermore, this is a battery powered scope (uses 2 AA batteries) and will not work if they die (which is a possibility in very cold weather). The Eliminator IV is also physically pretty large and heavy. Heck, it’s easily the heaviest rifle scope on this list of the best hunting scopes.

Finally, this scope is also pretty expensive. However, due to the fact that it also has a laser rangefinder and all those electronic systems inside, the Eliminator IV has lower quality glass than is the case with traditional rifle scopes at a similar price point. The glass isn’t bad by any stretch of the imagination, but it’s just not quite as good as a similarly priced traditional scope.

With all those things in mind, the Burris Eliminator IV is definitely not the best hunting scope for everyone. However, I think it’s the best scope currently available for someone who hunts in areas where it’s legal to use and who appreciate the advantages it delivers.

Key Features

• Weight: 28.8 ounces
• Magnification Range: 4-16x
• Objective Lens Diameter: 50mm
• Tube Diameter: Direct mount (no rings necessary and mounts directly to Weaver or Picatinny style rail)
• Turret Click Values: .125 MOA
• Reticle Focal Plane: First
• Parallax/Focus: Bell mounted parallax/focus knob
• Knob Style: Capped
• Illuminated Reticle: Yes

Pros

• Rapidly calculates ballistic holdover
• Eliminates need to carry separate rangefinder, dope card, or ballistic calculator
• Increases ethical range of hunter

Cons

• Physically large and heavy
• Requires batteries
• Not legal in every state
• Expensive
• Lower optical quality than similarly priced hunting scopes

BUY A BURRIS ELIMINATOR IV SCOPE ON AMAZON HERE

BUY A BURRIS ELIMINATOR IV SCOPE AT OPTICS PLANET HERE

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NEXT: BEST HUNTING EAR PROTECTION FOR SPORTSMEN

There’s a reason why many hunters cite spring turkey hunting as their favorite pursuit of all. It’s because one encounter with a raucous, king-of-the-woods gobbler as it’s coming into your calls will make your knees knock and your heart lurch.

But turkeys have eyesight sharp as cut glass and are more wary than whitetails, so stalking one is difficult to impossible. Indeed, to have success this spring, you’ve got to know how to call one in. While master turkey callers spend a lifetime perfecting the craft and have dozens of various calling skills available in their repertoire, here are a few basic calls with which all turkey hunters should begin.

Calling turkeys consists of two main elements: Knowing how to make a specific call, and then knowing when to make it. For now, let’s focus on three basic calls, each of which is demonstrated in the video embedded above.

Locator CallsLocator calls aren’t calls that mimic turkeys; rather they are imitative sounds of other animals that challenge a gobbler’s dominance and spur them into gobbling—such as owls, crows, woodpeckers, hawks and others. When an owl hoots at dawn, for example, an old boss gobbler can’t stand it, so he’ll often gobble back at the owl to let him know who’s boss. (Or at least this is what we think is going on in a turkey’s brain.) This stimulus/response mechanism in springtime gobblers is nearly automatic, meaning that no matter how many times an owl hoots (or a crow crows, or a woodpecker cries) the gobbler nearly always answers back. And when he answers, he gives away his position so an astute hunter can move in on him and formulate a plan of attack.

So, all turkey hunters should know how to make an owl call. I can make the sound by blowing air through my hands or just with my voice, but I prefer a store-bought owl call because I can use it while wearing gloves-and it’s much louder than my voice alone. I like the Big Hooter Owl Call made by Hunter’s Specialties/HS Strut, because it’s loud and easy to blow. (HS also makes an instructional DVD on turkey calling, and I highly recommend it).

The Call: Owl HootUsing a tremendous amount of air pressure by filling up your lungs, blow into the call with short, powerful bursts of air. After you purchase a call, click here to learn how owl calls sound, or better yet, spend time in the woods at dawn and dusk, and listen to the call of a barred owl. Then try to mimic the owl’s nine-syllable call that sounds like “Who-cooks—for-you; Who-cooks—for—you-all?

When to CallGobblers respond best to owl calls in the morning just before dawn, while they’re still roosted in trees. So if you’re not sure if a gobbler is nearby, sneak to the edge of the woods or other vantage and rip off a loud hoot. If there’s a gobbler within a couple hundred yards, he should answer. If he does, make note of exactly where the sound came from; you have just located a gobbler! If one doesn’t gobble, move a couple hundred yards to another location and try it again. You can use an owl hooter—often with success—anytime of the day to locate gobblers. So keep it handy and use it often.

Hen CallsFemale adult turkeys, or hens, make many types of calls including clucks, purrs, putts, cutts and others. But the staple call they use to attract a potential mate is called the yelp.

The Call: YelpA yelp is a series of short, high-pitched sounds that a hen uses to call to its clutch, other hens and to gobblers in an effort to find a mate. The sound can be made with a box call, a slate call, a mouth call (also called a diaphragm call) and others. But for beginners, I recommend the slate call (also called a pot call), like this one made by Zink Calls. Less expensive slate calls are readily available from Primos, Hunters Specialties, Knight & Hale and other callmakers.

The call consists of about 9 to 12 two-note yelps that, when made in a rhythmic series, sound somewhat like “yyyyeeee-elp, yyyeeee-eelp, yyeeee-eelp, yeeeelp, yeeeelp, yeelp, yelp, yelp, yelp, yelp.” Start by placing pressure on the striker upon an edge of the slate call, then drawing the stiker swiftly about an inch to the middle, then making a circle with the striker so the sound can be quickly and rhythmically repeated.

Because it’s virtually impossible to teach a new caller how to make sounds via written words, again, it’s best to watch one of the many online instructional videos on call makers’ websites or on YouTubeto actually hear the tone and cadence of a yelp. Or, you can sit in the woods and listen to actual hens and try to mimic them. However, the cadence and knowing when to call is more important than the exact tone, because all hens sound a little different; some are raspy and may have a shorter series of yelps while others are more high pitched.

When to YelpIn the springtime woods when the sun is up and birds have flown to the ground from their roosts, there is really no bad time to yelp. A yelp tells other turkeys, “hey, I’m over here”; and/or “why don’t you guys come over here?” It also says to a prospective gobbler, “Hey big boy, you sound cute. Are you looking for a date? Come on over here.”

So, a yelp can be used to entice a gobbler to gobble. Then, when a gobbler responds, a series of yelps is best used to attract the gobbler within shotgun range.

If a gobbler begins coming to you after you yelp, you should use the yelp call sparingly. Afterall, if a gobbler is coming to you, he’s doing what you want him to; calling more might make him change what he’s doing. Again, yelp sparingly, because sometimes an old gobbler can be attracted to a hen that plays a little hard to get.

Remember, if you’re calling to a gobbler and it chooses to be silent as it comes in, you may not know it’s coming. But rest-assured it is looking for the maker of the calls (you!), so it’s critical that you remain as still as possible. One movement—even a slight move of the head or a hand that swats a mosquito—will likely cause the gobbler to flee. And for this reason, when using a pot call, it’s best to keep the movement of your hand as it moves the striker concealed behind your knees or other objects such as foliage.

The Call: CluckWhen hens aren’t alone, lost or asking their family or a gobbler to “come over here,” they constantly make little clucks and purring sounds as they feed and when they’re content. If you’ve ever heard a flock of chickens feeding in a barnyard, you’ll notice that all of them make many clucks, purrs and putt sounds most all of the time. So do turkeys. Clucks convey to other turkeys that “all is good,” and “this grub is good, sister. All is well.”

While clucks sound subtle to us, gobblers hear them well and make them comfortable. If a gobbler thinks hens are around, it would sound weird to him—even alarming—if no natural clucks are coming from the hens. So hunters should learn a basic cluck that can be used to calm and attract gobblers.

To make a cluck, simply place pressure on the striker toward the middle of the pot call, then draw it firmly and swiftly about a half inch across the slate so it makes a very soft sounding “cluck” noise. Again, the best way to learn the cluck is to listen to audio of a cluck. A cluck is not so much to call in another bird, but rather a noise made by a turkey out of contentment, almost as a cat purrs. But because turkeys are gregarious animals, other turkeys can hear that content and be attracted to it. So you should know it.

When to CluckAnytime you’re set up in the woods and ready to see or hear a turkey is a good time to cluck. Mainly, however, clucks should be used randomly between series of yelps to let nearby turkeys know the following: 1. A hen or a group of hens are nearby; 2. They’re very comfortable, relaxed and probably feeding; and 3. they can come on over if they want.

Often some simple clucking—rather than loud raucous yelping—can soothe shy gobblers and convince them to come in even if perhaps they don’t feel like actually breeding at the moment. Unlike yelping, it’s difficult to cluck too much, provided you keep your clucking very soft and subtle.

Like any instrument that produces sound, turkey calling requires practice to make the sounds perfectly, every time, and while your adrenaline surges. Then you should know when to use them, and when to use restraint not to overcall. With time and experience, you can become a master that few gobblers can resist. But expect to send a few running the opposite direction in the process.

Be prepared when you enter the turkey woods this spring with this year’s must-have gear.

Mossberg International SA-28 Tactical Turkey ShotgunNow that modern loads can turn sub-gauge shotguns into true turkey killers, it’s time to get a modern sub-gauge shotgun. The International SA-28 Tactical Turkey is a small-framed semi-auto gas gun with a 2¾-inch chamber designed specifically with that in mind. At only 39 inches long, this 6-pound featherweight sports a straight stock and a contoured pistol grip, providing a short but maneuverable 12.75-inch LOP. Highly visible fiber-optic ghost-ring sights come standard on the 22-inch, vent-rib barrel, as does the top-mounted Picatinny rail should you choose to add an optic. Decked out in Mossy Oak Greenleaf camo, this bad boy ships ready-to-hunt with an extended turkey choke. Also available in 20-gauge. MSRP: $902; mossberg.com.

Primos Turkey CallsWhen turkey season comes calling, Primos has what you need to call back with confidence. Three new calls for spring include The Owl Call, The Crow Call and a new aluminum Rare Breed pot call. The Owl and Crow locator calls are both made of hardwood and are designed with built-in back pressure to allow for a wide range of sounds sure to elicit a gobble from any toms in earshot. The Rare Breed pot call is now available with a water-resistant, no-conditioning-required aluminum striking surface that’ll produce wind-cutting high-pitch notes right out of the box, ringin’ the ears of lonely toms near and far. MSRP: $54.99 Owl, $45.99 Crow, $49.99 Rare Breed; primos.com.

Hevi-Shot Turkey LoadsHevi-Shot has jumped on the proverbial TSS bandwagon this year with something a bit different in its new Hevi-18 TSS Turkey shells. Not only have they loaded premium 18 g/cc density No. 7 and No. 9 TSS into their 3½- and 3-inch 12-, 20-, .410 and 28-gauge loads, but they’ve also launched a reduced-recoil 2¾-inch load of Hevi-18 for your 12- and 20-gauge guns. Now available in a 3-inch 28-gauge load, Hevi-Shot’s Magnum Blend is a bit more economical but just as deadly with a blend of 12 g/cc density No. 5, No. 6 and No. 7 tungsten shot packed into each hull. MSRP: $45.99-$103.99 Hevi-18, $38.99-$60.99 Magnum Blend; hevishot.com.

Mojo Scoot-N-Shoot Max Turkey DecoyIf you were a fan of the original Mojo Shoot-N-Scoot “reaping” decoy, then the upgraded Shoot-N-Scoot Max should tickle your tail feathers. Built to take advantage of the aggressive nature of breeding gobblers, sometimes resulting in charging birds at uncomfortably close ranges, the new Max version sports the ability to attach either the included artificial wings and tail fan to get a turkey’s attention, or the real thing. Fan includes a mesh viewing window and wings sport orange for safety. Check local laws surrounding turkey “reaping” before you hit the field. MSRP: $79.99; mojooutdoors.com.

Iver Johnson Pump Turkey ShotgunLooking for a solid turkey gun that’ll tackle turkeys nationwide but won’t put you in the hole? This 12-gauge pump gun from Iver Johnson is all that and more. While the PAS12MO could use a better name, it sports a Mossy Oak Obsession camo finish, twin action bars for dependable cycling, a 3-inch chamber, a Pic rail for mounting optics and, perhaps best of all, the push-button ability to remove the buttstock and convert to a pistol-grip shotgun with a 24-inch barrel. How cool is that? MSRP: $386; iverjohnsonarms.com.

Nomad Bull Lounger Turkey VestBe you a run-and-gun gobble chaser or a sit-and-wait ambush hunter, the Bull Lounger adapts to your style of hunting. A lightweight, adjustable and removable aluminum frame provides a solid back rest just about anywhere a turkey may demand you set up, and the thick foam seat means you’ll be able to sit comfortably to wait him out. Pockets galore adorn this pack, 23 in total, starting with a huge game pouch at the rear, water bottle pockets, a Thermacell pocket and various call pockets and zippered compartments out front for your shells, gloves, cellphone, sandwich and everything else you can possibly think of. Available in Mossy Oak Bottomland and Shadow Leaf. MSRP: $250; nomadoutdoor.com.

APEX Mossy Oak Greenleaf Turkey TSS BlendApex Ammunition has partnered with Mossy Oak to release a special offering to turkey hunters this year: a duplex load consisting of No. 9 and No. 10 TSS pellets. Engineered for massive payloads and tight patterns, the Mossy Oak Greenleaf Turkey TSS Blend is available in 3-inch 12-gauge 2¼-ounce loads and 3-inch 20-gauge 1⅝-ounce loads throwing an incredible 1,096 and 774 ultra-dense 18 g/cc density TSS pellets. Shells are handloaded to tight tolerances and use a super-tough, tungsten-grade wad to deliver tight patterns and protect your barrel. MSRP: $49.99-$62.99; apexammunition.com.

ALPS OutdoorZ High Ridge Chair and Dash Panel BlindIf you’re going to be sittin’ for a spell waiting on a strutter, you might as well do it in a chair designed for the task. The low-profile High Ridge Chair from ALPS unfolds into a comfy low-lounger with a call table attached conveniently to the side. Built-in pockets keep calls organized and within easy reach, and a dedicated pocket holds your Thermacell in the perfect spot. Used with or without a chair, the Dash Panel Blind is a lightweight and quick-deploying ground blind for hiding up to two hunters. Three-sided design provides more than full-frontal concealment and sports mesh viewing windows on the side panels and a large adjustable Silent-Trac shooting window out front. Includes ground stakes and a carry bag. MSRP: $79.99 chair; $139.99 blind; alpsoutdoorz.com.

Learning how to skin a raccoon is not a difficult task.

With a few simple tools and a little patience anyone can learn how to skin, flesh, stretch and dry a raccoon pelt.

One of the biggest mistakes made during the fur harvesting process occurs during the skinning or fleshing of the furbearer.

Why is this stage so important?

Improperly skinning the animal can decrease its value or even worse, make it worth nothing at all.

Proper fur handling is an important step that everyone should understand.

Not only will you feel a sense of pride or satisfaction from a job well done, you’ll also get a better price from the fur buyer for all your hard work.

There are two basic ways to skin a furbearer……open and cased.

“Open” describes a method used to skin beaver or badger where a cut is made down the belly and the pelt is tacked out flat.

“Cased” is the most common method of skinning a furbearer.

Muskrats, mink, coyotes, fox, raccoons and many other animals are skinned this way.

Cased furs are processed by cutting a slit in the animals hide from one hind foot pad to the other.

A small slit is made in the tail and the tailbone is removed leaving the tail fur attached to the pelt.

Then, the pelt is removed from the animal in a process that’s similar to taking off your shirt or socks.

Once the hide is removed it’s then fleshed, stretched and allowed to dry.

How To Skin A Raccoon

Although it’s pretty easy to remove the skin from a raccoon, they contain a lot of fat which sometimes makes the fleshing process a little time consuming and messy.

Before you begin, I recommend wearing a pair of latex surgical gloves during the entire process.

The rubber or latex gloves not only keep your hands clean, but they also protect you from various diseases that raccoons have been known to carry.

I’ve also found using a thin bladed skinning knife or pocket knife, like a Buck or Old Timer knife, with a sharp blade works the best.

How To Skin A Raccoon Step-By-Step Process

To begin cut around the front and rear ankles where the fur meets the top of the foot.

Next, starting at the hind foot pad, on the inside of the foot just above the heal, cut straight across the body just above the vent or anus.

Cut all the way across in a straight line to the opposite foot pad.

In a “V” shape cut around the vent on both sides and then cut about a 3-4 inch slit along the underside of the tail.

Using your knife and hand pressure, remove the skin from around the legs far enough so you can attach a skinning gambrel or other similar device around its rear legs so the raccoon can be hung upside down.

Using your knife to remove any connective tissue, work the hide off the legs, around the cuts near the vent and around the cut on the tailbone.

Expose a couple inches of the tailbone and remove the tailbone using a tail stripper.

For best results use a push/pull motion with your hands and the tail stripper.

At this point you can pretty much grab the hide and pull it down like a sock, using your knife to cut away any connective tissue that gets in the way.

When you reach the front arms, work the hide around the elbow and stick your fingers between elbow/armpit area until you can pull the hide down off the front wrists.

Do this on both front legs.

While pulling down on the fur, remove the fur from around the head until you reach the ears.

Cut off the ears leaving them attached to your “cased” skin.

Using the ear holes for leverage, continue to pull the pelt down and cut around the eyes, lips and finally cut the pelt off at the nose.

That’s it!

The skinning process is now done and you’re ready to flesh.

How To Skin A Raccoon – Flesh Removal

Place the cased raccoon skin over your fleshing beam, flesh side out.

Using a small clamp to clamp the nose area will keep the pelt from slipping over the end of the fleshing beam.

Position the pelt evenly on the beam and begin to slowly remove the flesh and fat with the sharp part of your fleshing knife.

Start at the base of the ears and slowly work your way down the pelt using a slight slicing motion with your knife.

Necker Fleshing Knife

Once the fat starts coming off you can turn your knife over to the dull edge and push away from your body, removing the fat from the hide.

Flesh about half way down the pelt and then rotate the pelt on the fleshing beam.

Continue fleshing the pelt until all flesh and muscle has been removed.

Once the hide has been fleshed the final step is to stretch and dry the fur over either a board or wire stretcher.

Overall – How To Skin A Raccoon

Learning how to skin a raccoon the proper way will ensure the you get the maximum amount of money when you take your furs to a buyer.

Take your time, do a good clean job, and your hard work will be rewarded.

Hornady recently announced the newest cartridge in its Precision Rifle Cartridge series of long-range shooting superstars — the 7mm PRC. Directly on the heels of Hornady’s announcement, Savage Arms revealed its own plans to expand several of its most popular rifle models to include hunt-ready options chambered in Hornady’s newest long-action cartridge.

“We’re thrilled to get these 7mm PRC additions into the hands of Savage fans and shooters everywhere,” said Beth Shimanski, director of marketing at Savage Arms, in a release. “With Savage’s heritage for proven accuracy, these rifles are designed for top performance and match grade accuracy, putting challenging shots and the biggest game in your reach.”

Savage will have several of its factory hunting rifles chambered in 7mm PRC available by the end of the year, including the bolt-action 110 Ultralite, 110 High Country, and 110 Apex Hunter XP, as well as the straight-pull Impulse Big Game and Impulse Mountain Hunter rifles.

Savage’s 7mm PRC rifles all feature barrels with a 1:8” twist rate, ideal for stabilizing long, heavy-for-caliber, high BC bullets. Savage claims their models can pitch 180-grain bullets from a 24-inch barrel at a pretty impressive 3,000 fps.

Shooters can also do a barrel swap on any existing long-action rifle with a .540-inch bolt face, like the 7mm Rem Mag or .300 Win Mag, to accommodate the new cartridge.

Why Make the Switch?

Shooting long, high BC .284 caliber projectiles, the cutting-edge 7mm PRC slides perfectly into the gap between 6mm PRC and .300 PRC.

With a slightly shorter case length but the same overall length as the 7mm Rem Mag, the PRC has plenty of headroom for taller, sleeker, more aerodynamic bullets. The design makes the cartridge compatible with the absolute best-performing long-range bullets in production without having to modify your magazine.

The 7mm PRC performs best out of fast-twisting barrels. One turn every eight inches stabilizes the longer, heavier bullets to cut through practically any atmospheric condition. With just over 17 inches of drop at 400 yards, these cartridges leave plenty of wiggle room when shooting unknown distances. Plus, the 7mm bullets will still be packing plenty of power for dropping muleys, elk, sheep, and moose well beyond that range.

Yes, this is a magnum cartridge. However, as far as magnums go, the recoil on this one is surprisingly manageable. It is relatively comparable to the 7mm Rem Mag and definitely milder than the .300 Win Mag.

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What Hornady Has to Offer

Hornady is currently offering the 7mm PRC in three different factory loads.

Target shooters will appreciate Hornady’s Match load, featuring 180-grain ELD-M bullets with a freakishly high BC of .796 (G1). The ELD-M projectile is currently one of the flattest-shooting bullets on the face of the planet.

Hornady also offers its Outfitter line with 160-grain CX expanding copper-alloy bullets for big-game hunters and their Precision Hunter loads. Topped with 175-grain ELD-X, Precision Hunter features a heat shield tip that resists the high temperature generated by the cartridge’s blistering speeds.

Hornady also loads its 7mm PRC cartridges with temperature-stable, magnum-speed propellants for consistent velocity and longer barrel life.

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7mm PRC Specs

Bullet Diameter: 7mm (.284 inches)Parent Case: .300 PRCCase Length: 2.280 inchesCase Head: 0.532 inchesShoulder Angle: 30 degreesMuzzle Velocity: 2,900 to 3,000 fpsSAAMI Max Pressure: 65,000 psi

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Savage Rifles Available in 7mm PRC:

• 110 Ultralite: $1,649
• 110 Ultralite HD: $1,649
• 110 Ultralite Camo: $1,699
• 110 High Country: $1,239
• 110 Timberline LH: $1,239
• Impulse Big Game: $1,449
• Impulse Mountain Hunter: $2,437
• 110 Apex Hunter XP: $736
• 110 Apex Storm XP: $819
• 110 Apex Hunter XP LH: $709

READ NEXT – No, the AR-15 Was Not Designed to ‘Blow Targets Apart’ or Cut off Heads

There are many versions of archery release aids, but the four most common types are: wrist strap index finger release, handheld thumb trigger release, handheld hinge release and the handheld resistance/tension type release. The features and best use of each release vary and there is a ton to consider when choosing an archery release aid. In this article, we will spend some time talking about the pros, cons, and scenarios for when you might use one over another.

Index finger releases

The most popular release aid among bowhunters is the wrist strap index finger style. A major advantage of this type of release is that it’s familiar to most hunters. Most people begin hunting with a rifle where a trigger is pulled or squeezed to activate the shot. An index finger archery release is similar in that it has a trigger that has to be pulled to fire the arrow. It gives the archer the ability to control the shot precisely. Its commonly called “command shooting,” meaning that the archer commands the trigger, pulling it when the pin sight sits exactly on the spot where they want the arrow to hit. This can be a real advantage in a hunting situation where an animal is moving through timber and you need to pick your spot and fire an arrow at an exact moment or when a breeze is blowing and you need to execute a shot when your pin is precisely in the location you need it to be.

Another advantage of most index finger releases is that they commonly come with a wrist strap (either a buckle or velcro strap). This ensures you always have your release ready at hand when you need it. You may also find that a wrist strap helps you to pull your bow back easier than some other release options because you can utilize your wrist and muscles in your arms and back to pull.

There is a lot to like about index finger releases, but, for many of us, using an index finger release can eventually lead to “target panic.” The trigger itself isn’t the issue, but, rather, our tendencies and how we use it become the issue. Any time you have a trigger involved in activating the release you are inducing the conscious desire to fire the arrow when the pin is over the dot. Most people have a very hard time both aiming with the front half and executing a command shot with the back half. Trying to do both can lead to target panic. Target panic can be explained as the learned connection between the eye, brain and our release hand—the eye sees the pin cross the target, the brain triggers the fire reflex and the finger punches the trigger. Over time, we begin to anticipate the shot and that causes anxiety and flinching. Then, to ease the anxiety, subconsciously, we begin to aim and freeze outside of the intended target. Whatever the case the symptoms are the same: freezing off target, inconsistent shooting and flinching. If you want to continue shooting an index finger release you may need to rethink how you have it set up and how you shoot it.

Overall, index finger releases are easy to use, economical, and allow you to execute a shot quickly when you need to, but you may have to learn or relearn to shoot it a bit differently to get the most out of it. If you are dealing with target panic issues, check out the Tru-Fire Panic X release in the goHUNT Gear Shop which is specifically designed to help with that issue.

Let’s talk about the different index finger options. We carry several models of the Carter index finger releases: the Lucky, Quickie 1 Plus, and the Rx1. All three have hook style heads, which are great in a hunting situation because they are simple and quiet to “hook” to your D-loop. The Spot Hogg Wise Guy release is similar with a hook design head. Each of those offers something slightly different: trigger shape/angle, size of the head and trigger tension adjustability.

We also carry several closed jaw type releases. Obviously, one advantage of those is that your D-loop is enclosed and there is no way it can come out other than opening it with the trigger. The Scott Echo and Recon are excellent options as is the Hot Shot Nano, which is near the $50 to $100 price point.

You will also notice that several of the index releases have nylon straps that connect the body of the release to the wrist strap itself. These nylon straps can easily be adjusted in length to find the best fit for each archer regardless of hand size. They also are flexible, allowing for some variations in anchor point and reducing torque. The downfall of these is that they can flop around a bit. We also carry some solid arm options like the Scott Recon, Rhino or Spot Hogg Wise Guy. Those are rigid or may offer a fold back locking option to keep them back when you don’t need them. The point of this type of release is that it won’t flop around and you’ll easily have it in your hand when you need it. Personally, I prefer the nylon strap types because of the adjustability it provides, but it truly is a personal preference.

Handheld thumb trigger/button releases

I’ve often heard this type of release referred to a “thumb button.” Whether you want to call it a button or trigger, it’s the same thing. Essentially, it’s a handheld release that is activated by pulling the trigger with your thumb. Handheld thumb trigger releases seem to be growing in popularity with hunters, perhaps bleeding over from their prominence among target archers. There are some pros for handheld thumb releases. For one, I personally find that they are easier and more consistent to anchor with. The hand position utilized with a handheld release allows me to split my jaw bone between my first and second finger/knuckle. It provides an easy, comfortable, and more consistent repeatable anchor point than an index finger release. If you feel like your anchor point floats and has some inconsistencies, a handheld release can help solidify your anchor point. Most handheld releases also have closed jaw clasps that are handy when you are sitting in a tree stand or ambush hunting. Simply close the release over your D-loop and it’s hooked up and ready to go anytime you grab it. Your draw hand is free to use an elk call or stick in your jacket pocket on a cold morning.

I often overhear other bowhunters state that are switching to a thumb release so they can deal with their tendencies to punch the trigger on an index finger release. If you do it, switching releases can provide you the opportunity to relearn how to activate your release, but what I often see is that people pick up a handheld thumb release and start to punch the trigger on it, too. Target panic issues can continue or start just as easy with a handheld thumb trigger release as they do with an index finger release. This can be one negative of a thumb release unless you do some research and learn how to shoot a thumb release with back tension and relaxation through the hand, wrist, and draw arm. Another negative with a handheld release is that you have to keep track of it since it’s not attached to you although most do have a hole that you can attach a wrist tether to. One other potential downside is that many thumb releases have an audible click when the clasp is closed; however, the click is typically not loud enough to disturb an animal within range. One final negative is that in comparison to index finger releases, handheld thumb releases are quite expensive. A good thumb release can cost you a couple hundred dollars.

All around, thumb releases are great for target archery and hunting, but, if you decide to try one out, I would recommend that you take the opportunity to learn to properly shoot with one so that target panic issues don’t continue or develop. One of my favorite thumb releases is the Carter Chocolate Addiction. It has tons of adjustability, including trigger tension, trigger travel, and trigger location.

Hinge style releases

Another type of release is the hinge release or what some may refer to it as a back tension release. It’s the type of release you may have tried to use and punched yourself in the mouth with as it went off halfway through your draw circle. It’s intimidating to a lot of us, but, in reality, it’s fairly basic and user-friendly with some tips and practice. A hinge is basically a handheld release that does not have a trigger and is only activated by the slight backward rotation of the release. When the handle rotates, it causes a searing mechanism to slip and the hook opens and the bow fires.

So how do you shoot a hinge release and why would you?

When you draw your bow with a hinge release, you draw with the weight on your index finger with very little tension on the rest of your fingers. You wrap your thumb around the thumb peg, utilizing the thumb peg as leverage to help you pull back. When you settle into your anchor point and begin your aiming process you will begin to pull through with your rhomboid back muscles, squeezing your draw arm shoulder blade back while relaxing your release hand, wrist and arm. As tension builds, the angle of the release changes, the sear slips, and the string fires. The major benefit of learning to shoot a hinge release is that it allows you to develop a subconscious surprise release. This might not sound like that much of a benefit, but, in essence, what you are doing is removing one variable from the equation and leaving only one thing to focus on…aiming! A hinge release can be a great tool for getting over target panic, but, once again, it will require commitment and learning to shoot one properly. Like the handheld thumb releases, a handheld hinge release also helps to establish a solid repeatable anchor point.

Most top-tier target archers shoot a hinge release, but what about hunting with one?

I personally hunt with a hinge release and have for the past eight years. I had a bad case of panic and I almost quit archery all together. Fortunately, with the help of a friend, I learned to shoot a hinge and have rarely shot anything since. I will say that a hinge is not ideal in all hunting situations. For example, executing a very precisely timed shot is not as easy as it might be with a thumb or index finger release. Hinge releases are also handheld, which means that you have to keep track of it. It’s not as common to have a hole drilled in one to attach a wrist tether to and even on the ones that do I don’t find it comfortable to shoot with a wrist tether. So I carry it in my pack hip pocket and I absolutely have to keep track of it. Most hinges are a hook head design, which is great for quiet and quick hook-up to a D-loop, but I also can’t hang it from a D-loop like you can with many of the handheld thumb releases. So why shoot one for hunting? The best answer as to why I hunt with one is because I believe it helps me execute my best shot. Here’s an example: I was already at full draw on a 330” class bull in Wyoming when I used a cow chirp to stop him. His head swiveled, staring a hole in me as I stood out in wide open space. As my pins floated around on his vitals my inner voice was screaming, “Shoot! Shoot now! He’s going to run!” But I didn’t then; my body did exactly what it had done thousands of times, tension built, the release was a surprise when it went off and I watched the arrow hit exactly where I wanted it to. I watched the bull go down within a hundred yards. I don’t know if the outcome would have been the same had I rushed the shot. Hinge releases may not be for everybody, especially for hunting, but they are a good tool for learning a tension activated release and as a means of dealing with target panic. If you learn to shoot one and become very very comfortable with one, I personally feel that they are great for hunting and will help you make the best shot when it really counts.

Tension or resistance releases

The last release I will touch one is a tension or resistance activated release. It’s similar to a hinge, but has a built-in safety mechanism that allows you to draw the bow without fear of it firing. The Carter Evolution Plus is an example of this type of release and we just added it to our Gear Shop. It also feels more like a traditional handheld thumb trigger release and is an awesome training tool for transitioning to a thumb release. The Evolution does not have a trigger and you can’t punch it. The Evolution is fired by increasing resistance, meaning you must pull through the release for it to fire.

If you look at the Evolution, it appears to have a trigger, but that peg where the trigger typically is on a handheld release is actually a safety that allows you to draw the bow without fear that the bow will misfire. Once you get to full draw, you find your anchor point, take your thumb off the safety and then begin to execute your shot by pulling and building pressure on the back wall of your draw until the release fires. You can set up the Evolution at roughly five to seven pounds over your hold weight at full draw. This will allow you to release your thumb off the safety, and then build pressure to make the release go off. This type of release is truly a game changer for archers who are struggling with target panic or even archers who just want to progress and improve their shooting abilities. It can be frustrating when you initially make the switch. The most common feedback I get is that the release seems to fire sometimes and at other times the archer cannot get it to go off no matter how hard they feel like they are pulling into the backwall. In those cases, the issue is not the release; rather, it is an inconsistency with the shooter. If you will commit to it and learn to shoot it and execute the shot the same way every time, it can be a very helpful tool. In due time, it allows you to develop a subconscious, smooth, surprise release, which, in turn, grants you the opportunity to focus only on aiming. There are not many who use an Evolution for hunting, but I do know a few who have gotten proficient enough that they feel comfortable to hunt with it. Most hunters are using the Evolution to learn to shoot with back tension and then switching to a thumb trigger release to hunt. A handheld thumb release like the Carter Chocolate Addiction or the Hot Shot Vapor can be used in the same manner as the Evolution by seating the barrel of the thumb trigger on your thumb and then utilizing a relaxed hand, forearm, bicep and back tension to pull through the release to activate it. An Evolution resistance release is a great tool for any bowhunter.

In conclusion

Every archer is on a different spectrum when it comes to their experience and goals. Hopefully, everyone that reads this will find some value and direction that will help them take the next step in their progression and find a release that will help get them there.

If you’re looking to master the art of cutting a tomahawk steak, you’ve come to the right place. With its impressive bone-in presentation and succulent marbling, the tomahawk steak is a true showstopper on any grill or plate.

In this guide, we’ll walk you through the step-by-step process of properly cutting a tomahawk steak, ensuring that you achieve perfect slices that do justice to this flavorful cut of beef.

First, make sure you have a sharp knife that can easily glide through the meat. Begin by identifying the bone that extends from the center of the steak’s thickness, resembling a tomahawk axe handle.

This bone adds flavor and moisture to the meat during the cooking process, making it essential for the overall taste.

Next, position the tomahawk steak on a cutting board with the bone facing upwards. Start by slicing horizontally through the outer fat, creating a clean incision that exposes the meat underneath. Use gentle, controlled motions to avoid cutting into the bone.

Once you’ve created this initial incision, it’s time to reveal the beautifully cooked meat. Hold the bone firmly and carefully make vertical cuts, perpendicular to the bone, to create individual slices of your desired thickness. Take your time and adjust the pressure as needed to ensure clean cuts and presentable portions.

Remember, presentation is key when serving a tomahawk steak. Arrange the sliced portions

Choosing the Perfect Tomahawk Steak

When it comes to indulging in a delicious and mouthwatering steak, the tomahawk steak is hard to beat. This impressive cut of beef is known for its large size, frenched bone, and exceptional marbling, making it a show-stopping centerpiece for any special occasion or backyard barbecue.

However, with so many options available, choosing the perfect tomahawk steak can be a daunting task. In this section, we will guide you through the factors to consider to ensure that you select the best tomahawk steak for an unforgettable dining experience.

1. Quality and Grade

The first and most important factor to consider when choosing a tomahawk steak is its quality and grade. The quality of the steak is determined by the amount and distribution of marbling throughout the meat.

Marbling refers to the white streaks of fat that are dispersed within the muscle, enhancing the tenderness, juiciness, and flavor of the steak.

When it comes to grades, the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) assigns three main categories: Select, Choice, and Prime. Select is the lowest grade, with minimal marbling, while Choice has a moderate amount of marbling, and Prime is the highest grade, with abundant marbling.

For a truly exceptional tomahawk steak, opt for Prime grade if available. However, Choice grade can also provide a delicious and flavorful steak.

2. Size and Thickness

Another crucial factor to consider when choosing a tomahawk steak is its size and thickness. The tomahawk steak is renowned for its impressive size, often weighing around 2 to 3 pounds. However, you can also find smaller tomahawk steaks that are perfect for individual servings.

The thickness of the steak is equally important, as it affects the cooking time and doneness.

A thicker tomahawk steak will take longer to cook and may result in a more medium-rare or medium doneness, while a thinner steak will cook faster and may lean towards a medium or medium-well doneness. Choose the size and thickness that best suits your preferences and cooking method.

3. Source and Origin

Knowing the source and origin of your tomahawk steak is essential for several reasons. Firstly, it ensures that you are purchasing a steak from a reputable and trusted supplier.

Secondly, it allows you to support local farmers and businesses. Finally, it provides insight into the rearing and feeding practices of the cattle, which can impact the flavor and quality of the meat.

Look for tomahawk steaks that are sourced from sustainable and ethical farms, known for their commitment to animal welfare and environmentally friendly practices.

Additionally, consider opting for locally sourced tomahawk steaks to support your local community and reduce the carbon footprint associated with long-distance transportation.

4. Price and Budget

While tomahawk steaks are undoubtedly a luxurious and decadent choice, they can also come with a hefty price tag. Consider your budget and the occasion when choosing a tomahawk steak.

If you’re looking to impress guests or celebrate a special occasion, investing in a high-quality tomahawk steak may be worth it. However, if you’re on a tighter budget or planning a more casual gathering, there are still delicious options available at a more affordable price point.

Remember that the price of the tomahawk steak will vary depending on factors such as the quality, grade, size, and source. Take these into account when selecting a steak that aligns with your budget.

5. Personal Preferences

Ultimately, your personal preferences should play a significant role in choosing the perfect tomahawk steak. Consider how you like your steak cooked, whether you prefer a leaner or well-marbled cut, and any specific dietary restrictions or preferences.

If you enjoy a tender and melt-in-your-mouth steak, opt for a tomahawk steak with ample marbling. On the other hand, if you prefer a leaner cut with a bolder beef flavor, consider choosing a tomahawk steak with less marbling.

Additionally, take into account any special dietary requirements, such as grass-fed or organic options. Many suppliers offer a variety of tomahawk steaks to cater to different preferences and dietary needs.

Preparing the Tomahawk Steak for Cutting

Once you have obtained a high-quality Tomahawk steak, it is important to prepare it properly before cutting into it. This will ensure that you maximize the flavor and tenderness of the meat. Here are the steps to follow:

1. Remove the steak from the refrigerator: Take the Tomahawk steak out of the refrigerator and allow it to come to room temperature. This will help the meat cook more evenly.
2. Season the steak: Generously season the steak with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper on all sides. You can also add any additional spices or herbs of your choice to enhance the flavor.
3. Let it rest: After seasoning, let the steak rest for about 30 minutes. This allows the seasonings to penetrate the meat and enhances the overall flavor.
4. Preheat the grill: While the steak is resting, preheat your grill to high heat. Tomahawk steaks are best cooked over direct heat.
5. Oil the grates: To prevent the steak from sticking to the grill, lightly oil the grates. Use tongs and a folded paper towel dipped in oil to rub the grates.
6. Sear the steak: Place the seasoned Tomahawk steak directly on the hot grill grates. Sear it for about 2-3 minutes per side to create a flavorful crust.
7. Move to indirect heat: Once the steak is seared, move it to a cooler part of the grill or reduce the heat to medium. This will allow the steak to cook more gently and evenly.
8. Use a meat thermometer: To ensure that your Tomahawk steak is cooked to your desired level of doneness, use a meat thermometer. The internal temperature should reach 130°F (medium-rare), 140°F (medium), or 150°F (medium-well).
9. Rest the steak: Once the steak reaches the desired temperature, remove it from the grill and let it rest for at least 10 minutes. This allows the juices to redistribute and ensures a more tender and flavorful steak.

By following these steps, you will be able to prepare your Tomahawk steak for cutting and enjoy a delicious and perfectly cooked piece of meat.

Remember, cooking times may vary depending on the thickness of the steak and the heat of your grill, so it’s important to use a meat thermometer for accurate results. Enjoy your meal!

Essential Tools for Cutting a Tomahawk Steak

When it comes to cutting a tomahawk steak, having the right tools can make all the difference. This thick, bone-in ribeye steak requires some specialized equipment to ensure that you can slice through it effortlessly and present a perfectly cooked piece of meat. Here are the essential tools you’ll need:

1. Tomahawk Steak

Before you even think about cutting a tomahawk steak, you’ll need to have one on hand. This beautifully marbled, bone-in ribeye is known for its unique Frenched bone that resembles a tomahawk axe handle, hence its name.

Make sure you source a high-quality tomahawk steak from a trusted butcher or specialty meat shop.

2. Cutting Board

A sturdy and spacious cutting board is a must-have for cutting a tomahawk steak. Look for a board that is large enough to accommodate the size of your steak and has enough space for you to maneuver your knife comfortably.

A cutting board made of wood or plastic is recommended to prevent bacterial contamination and ensure easy cleanup.

3. Boning Knife

A boning knife is an essential tool for cutting a tomahawk steak, especially when it comes to removing the meat from the bone. Look for a sharp, narrow-bladed boning knife that allows for precise and controlled cuts.

The flexibility of the blade will help you navigate around the bone and separate the meat easily.

4. Carving Knife

Once you have separated the meat from the bone, a carving knife will come in handy for slicing the tomahawk steak into individual portions. A long, thin-bladed carving knife with a sharp edge will ensure clean cuts and help you achieve the desired thickness for each slice.

5. Meat Thermometer

When cooking a tomahawk steak, it’s crucial to monitor the internal temperature to achieve the desired level of doneness. A reliable meat thermometer will help you determine when the steak is cooked to perfection.

Insert the thermometer into the thickest part of the meat, away from the bone, and refer to a temperature guide for your preferred level of doneness.

6. Tongs

Tongs are essential for handling the tomahawk steak while it’s on the grill or in the oven. Opt for long, sturdy tongs that provide a good grip and allow you to flip the steak with ease. Avoid using a fork, as it can pierce the meat and cause the juices to escape, resulting in a drier steak.

7. Grill or Oven

Depending on your preference, you can cook a tomahawk steak on a grill or in the oven. A grill will give you those beautiful grill marks and a smoky flavor, while the oven will provide more controlled heat. Whichever method you choose, make sure it is properly preheated to the recommended temperature.

8. Resting Rack

After you have cooked the tomahawk steak, it’s crucial to let it rest for a few minutes before slicing. A resting rack allows the juices to redistribute within the meat, resulting in a more flavorful and tender steak. Place the steak on the rack and cover it loosely with foil to retain heat.

With these essential tools at your disposal, you’ll be well-equipped to tackle the task of cutting a tomahawk steak. Remember to handle the steak with care and always prioritize safety when using sharp knives. Enjoy the process and savor the delicious results!

Step-by-Step Guide to Cutting a Tomahawk Steak

Are you a steak lover looking to impress your guests with a perfectly cooked and beautifully presented tomahawk steak? Look no further! In this step-by-step guide, we will walk you through the process of cutting a tomahawk steak from a prime rib roast.

With a few simple techniques and the right tools, you’ll be able to create a restaurant-worthy tomahawk steak in the comfort of your own kitchen.

Step 1: Choose the Right Cut

The first step in cutting a tomahawk steak is selecting the right cut of meat. Look for a well-marbled prime rib roast that has been dry-aged for at least 21 days. Dry-aged beef develops a more concentrated and intense flavor, making it ideal for a tomahawk steak.

Step 2: Gather Your Tools

Before you begin the cutting process, make sure you have the necessary tools on hand. You will need a sharp boning knife, a sturdy cutting board, and a pair of kitchen shears. It’s important to have sharp tools to ensure clean and precise cuts.

Step 3: Locate the Bone

Place the prime rib roast on your cutting board with the bones facing upwards. Locate the bone that runs along the edge of the roast. This bone will serve as the handle of your tomahawk steak, giving it its distinctive appearance.

Step 4: Remove the Rib Cap

Using your boning knife, carefully separate the rib cap from the meat. The rib cap is a layer of fat and connective tissue that sits on top of the meat.

Start at one end of the roast and slowly work your way along the bone, gently separating the rib cap from the meat. Set the rib cap aside for later use, as it can be cooked separately for additional flavor.

Step 5: French the Bone

Next, you’ll want to “French” the bone to enhance the presentation of your tomahawk steak. Using your kitchen shears, remove the excess meat and fat from the bone, exposing it for a clean and elegant look. This process will give your tomahawk steak that iconic “handle” appearance.

Step 6: Trim the Meat

After removing the rib cap and Frenching the bone, it’s time to trim any excess fat or connective tissue from the meat. This will help ensure even cooking and a more tender steak. Use your boning knife to carefully trim away any unwanted parts, leaving behind a well-marbled piece of meat.

Step 7: Cut Individual Steaks

Finally, it’s time to cut individual tomahawk steaks from the prime rib roast. Start by cutting perpendicular to the bone, creating thick, bone-in steaks.

Aim for a steak thickness of around 2 inches for that perfect balance of tenderness and juiciness. Once you have cut the steaks, you can season them with your favorite spices and herbs before cooking.

Step 8: Cook and Serve

Now that you have successfully cut your tomahawk steaks, it’s time to cook them to perfection. Whether you prefer grilling, pan-searing, or using a sous vide method, make sure to cook the steaks to your desired level of doneness.

Let the steaks rest for a few minutes before serving to allow the juices to redistribute. Serve your tomahawk steaks with a side of roasted vegetables or a loaded baked potato for a complete and satisfying meal.

5. Tips and Tricks for a Perfectly Cut Tomahawk Steak

If you’re a meat lover, then you’ve probably heard of the mighty Tomahawk steak. Known for its impressive presentation and succulent flavor, this cut of meat is a true showstopper.

However, cooking and cutting a Tomahawk steak can be a bit intimidating if you’re not familiar with the process. Fear not, as we’ve compiled some useful tips and tricks to help you master the art of preparing a perfectly cut Tomahawk steak.

1. Choosing the Right Tomahawk Steak

The first step to achieving a fantastic Tomahawk steak is choosing the right cut of meat. Look for a steak with a thick bone and well-marbled meat.

The bone not only adds an impressive visual appeal but also helps in maintaining the steak’s tenderness and juiciness. Additionally, the marbling is crucial for flavor and ensures the steak remains moist and flavorful during cooking.

2. Preparing the Steak

Before you start cooking your Tomahawk steak, it’s essential to let it come to room temperature. Allowing the steak to sit at room temperature for about 30 minutes helps ensure even cooking throughout the meat. Season the steak generously with salt and pepper, or your favorite steak seasoning, for a burst of flavor.

3. Cooking Techniques

There are several cooking techniques you can use to cook the perfect Tomahawk steak. Here are a couple of popular options:

1. Reverse Sear: This method involves slow cooking the steak at a low temperature before searing it on high heat to achieve a beautifully charred exterior. Start by placing the steak in a preheated oven at around 275°F (135°C) until it reaches your desired internal temperature. Finish by searing the steak on a hot grill or cast-iron skillet for a few minutes on each side.
2. Grilling: Grilling a Tomahawk steak is a classic and straightforward method. Preheat your grill to high heat and place the steak over direct heat. Sear for a few minutes on each side to achieve the desired doneness. For added flavor, you can also use wood chips or chunks to create a smoky aroma.

4. Resting and Carving

Once your Tomahawk steak is cooked to perfection, it’s crucial to let it rest before slicing. Resting allows the juices to redistribute throughout the meat, resulting in a juicier and more tender steak. Wrap the steak loosely in aluminum foil and let it rest for about 10 minutes.

When it comes to carving a Tomahawk steak, you’ll want to make thick, impressive slices. Start by removing the bone, which can be easily done by cutting along the bone and using a gentle sawing motion.

Once the bone is removed, slice the steak against the grain into thick pieces, around 1 inch (2.5 cm) thick. Serve the slices on a platter and enjoy!

5. Serving Suggestions

A perfectly cut Tomahawk steak deserves the perfect accompaniments. Here are a few serving suggestions to elevate your dining experience:

• Classic sides: Pair your steak with classic sides like mashed potatoes, roasted vegetables, or a fresh green salad.
• Sauces: Consider serving the steak with flavorful sauces such as peppercorn sauce, chimichurri, or a rich mushroom sauce.
• Wine pairing: Enhance the flavors of your Tomahawk steak with a bold red wine, such as Cabernet Sauvignon or Malbec.

Now that you’re armed with these tips and tricks, you’re ready to tackle a perfectly cut Tomahawk steak.

Whether you’re grilling for a special occasion or simply indulging in a delicious meal, mastering the art of preparing this impressive cut of meat will surely impress your guests or satisfy your own meat cravings. Enjoy!

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

1. How to cut a tomahawk steak?

To cut a tomahawk steak, start by placing the steak with the bone-side down on a cutting board. Use a sharp knife to make a horizontal cut along the bone, separating the meat from the bone. Then, make vertical cuts to portion the steak into individual servings. Serve and enjoy!

2. How long should I cook a tomahawk steak?

The cooking time for a tomahawk steak will vary depending on the thickness of the steak and the desired level of doneness.

As a general guide, grill the steak for 4-5 minutes per side for medium-rare, or adjust the cooking time according to personal preference. Use a meat thermometer to ensure the steak reaches the desired internal temperature.

3. How should I season a tomahawk steak?

For a delicious tomahawk steak, season it generously with salt and pepper on all sides. You can also add additional spices or a dry rub for extra flavor. Allow the seasoning to penetrate the steak by letting it sit at room temperature for about 30 minutes before cooking. This will enhance the taste and tenderness of the steak.

Conclusion

In conclusion, learning how to cut a tomahawk steak is a valuable skill for any home cook or aspiring chef. By following the proper technique, you can ensure beautiful, evenly cooked steaks that are sure to impress your guests. Remember to start with a high-quality tomahawk steak and use a sharp knife to create clean cuts.

Take your time and follow the bone’s natural curve to achieve those iconic long, exposed bones. Whether you’re grilling, broiling, or pan-searing, the tomahawk steak is guaranteed to provide a flavorful and visually stunning dining experience.

Cutting a tomahawk steak is not only about technique but also about appreciating the art of cooking. The bone-in presentation adds elegance to the dish, making it a standout choice for special occasions or celebrations.

From its marbling to its tenderness, the tomahawk steak is a prime cut that commands attention. With practice and patience, you can master the art of cutting and enjoy this indulgent and satisfying piece of meat.