Are you looking for the best rimfire scopes for your 22LR? This post will cover my top picks for rimfire scopes if you want to dress up your rifle with some optics.

If you are hunting small game or just target shooting, a scope on a 22LR will come in handy.

The good thing is that many good options are on the market, even for .22 caliber rifles.

This article will cover the best rimfire scopes for your 22LR rifle.

Rimfire Scope Criteria

Below are the categories that need to be considered when choosing a scope. Magnification, reticle selection, and cost are the three main factors.

Magnification

Magnification is the primary feature to consider in the scope and is the main purpose of a scope. First, determine what distance you are going to shoot at commonly.

For 22LR, the most common distance is usually 50 yards. Most rimfire scopes will be at the 2x magnification and can be dialed up to 7x magnification.

A lot of scopes are also 3x to 9x magnification. Anything more powerful than this is not necessary on a 22LR rifle.

Reticle

Most people get too concerned and confused with different reticles and which is the best one. A simple crosshairs reticle is often the best choice, especially for a rimfire rifle.

Complicated reticles with bullet drop are designed for extreme long-range shooting. For 22LR rifles, you do not need any BDC or special reticles.

Because the distance is usually between 0-100 yards, a standard reticle will work fine, and try not to overthink it.

Price

Most people don’t like spending money on 22 rifles; they consider them more of a gun just to mess around with and have fun at the range.

I never recommend buying cheap stuff and always try to have good quality parts and optics on all my rifles. It doesn’t mean you need to spend enormous money on a scope for a 22, but you should still get something decent.

You should expect to spend about $100 to $400 on a scope and a little extra on scope rings and a mounting rail if needed.

Best Rimfire Scopes

1. Simmons 22 MAG 3-9x32mm

One of the cheapest and simplest rimfire scopes is the Simmons 22 Mag 3-9x32mm. This isn’t fancy, but if you just want something to slap on your rifle and have some fun at the range, it will get the job done.

This is pretty much a standard scope that is good enough for shooting at 50 yards. It comes with a set of scope rings, and this scope is available in black or silver to match your rifle.

It is a 3x to 9x magnification, and the zeroing is standard with your windage and elevation turrets.

When looking through the scope, it is dim and not very bright, but you can’t expect too much for the price.

Again, this scope will work if you just want something to plink around with and have fun. Great for teaching kids on and even hunting.

Click Here to check the current prices of the Simmons 22 Mag 3-9x32mm

2. Primary Arms 3-9x44mm

A huge jump in quality and features, but not the jump in price, is the Primary Arms 3-9x44mm.

This scope has a 30mm tube bigger than a 1″. A bigger tube gathers more light and looks brighter when looking through the scope.

This is also a 44mm objective lens, which means that you will have a wider field of view when you are looking through the scope.

For the money, this is the best rimfire scope you can buy. It has features you usually find on scopes in the $300 to $400 range but can be purchased for a fraction of the price.

It feels like a well-built scope. The glass looks good. The turrets adjust nicely. It has a crisp, clear sight picture even on the highest magnification and comes with lens caps.

Click Here to check the current prices of the Primary Arms 3-9x44mm

3. Bushnell Banner 3-9x50mm

One of the best rimfire scopes for the money, with the widest field of view, is the Bushnell Banner 3-9x50mm.

This is a great all-around scope and is very rugged. You will have no issues mounting this on a 22LR rifle.

The wide field of view is great for tracking targets if you are hunting and for transitioning targets if you are plinking.

I was initially very impressed with the clarity of the glass and how well built it was. The turrets and magnification adjustment know are firm and tactile. It just feels very robust and durable.

This is one of the best 50mm budget scopes on the market, and you will not be disappointed.

Click Here to check the current prices of the Bushnell Banner 3-9x50mm

4. Vortex Crossfire II 2-7x32mm

Setting up into a little more of a premium rimfire scope is the Vortex Crossfire II 2-7x32mm.

The 2-7x magnification is enough for the 22LR caliber at medium ranges. This has a V-Plex reticle which works great and isn’t busy or confusing.

Vortex scopes are well made and have the best warranty I have seen by any company. If there are any problems at all you send the scope back to them, and they replace it, no questions asked.

The eye relief on the Crossfire II is very generous and is built like a tank. All metal components and no plastic.

This is the perfect scope for a 22LR rifle and my favorite out of all the scopes on my list.

If you have never owned a Vortex scope, now is the perfect time to pick one up.

Click Here to check the current prices of the Vortex Crossfire II 2-7x32mm

5. Sig Sauer Whiskey 3 3-9x50mm

The Sig Sauer Whiskey 3 3-9x50mm is more of a tactical scope, which I recommend for anyone with a .22 caliber AR rifle.

This scope is unique because it is offered with an illuminated reticle. This is designed for low light or nighttime shooting.

The brightness and clarity are superb, and you normally find optics of this quality for double the price.

Sig did an excellent job with the Whiskey 3. They offer it in three different reticles, but if you want the illuminated version, it will cost more and is sold with the Hellfire Quadplex reticle.

If you are looking for more of a tactical scope, this is one of the best rimfire scopes for that.

Click Here to check the current prices of the Sig Sauer Whiskey 3 3-9x0mm

6. Vortex Diamondback 3-9x40mm

Another one of the best rimfire scopes is the Vortex Diamondback 3-9x40mm. This upgraded version of the Crossfire II is of higher quality.

For the price, you are getting a lot of scopes. Vortex makes some great products, and the warranty they have is world-class.

Everything about this scope might be a little overkill on a 22LR rifle, but you can’t beat it for the price.

The glass is crystal clear, the construction is rock solid, and the price is right. They also sell this model with weaver-style rings, which will save you a little bit of money when mounting it onto your rifle.

Click Here to check the current prices of the Vortex Diamondback 3-9x40mm

7. Leupold VX-Freedom 3-9x40mm

If you are looking for a high-end competition scope for your 22LR rifle, I recommend getting the Leupold VX-Freedom 3-9x40mm.

They make this model with a specific rimfire reticle which is great. The reticle is custom designed for the 22LR caliber.

Leupold has long been known for making some of the best scopes in the firearms industry; this scope is no exception. The glass is very clear, and the construction is very durable.

Very clear and bright glass compared to lesser quality scopes. Edges remain clear and focused. Maintains focus at very long distances. The rimfire reticle is excellent. Fine crosshairs are perfect width. Using the rimfire MOA reticle, holdovers perform as intended.

The reticle alone is worth the purchase. Scope holds zero and was easy to dial in. Extremely light. The scope is aesthetically pleasing as well.

Click Here to check the current prices of the Leupold VX-Freedom 3-9x40mm

Best 22LR Ammo

You will always need more ammo, and with prices at a high, the best idea is to better it whenever you see a sale or buy in bulk.

22LR Ammo is pretty common, so it’s normally easy to find.

Be sure to click the links and check the current prices and availability of the ammo because prices always change.

• 22LR Ammo

Best Rimfire Scopes FAQ

Are rimfire scopes worth it?

Rimfire scopes are a great addition to any small caliber or 22LR rifle. They will increase the accuracy and distance you will be able to shoot. They are most commonly used on hunting rifles.

What makes a rimfire scope different?

Generally, rimfire scopes are parallax free and have reduced eye relief. This is because they are often used at shorter ranges, and parallax-free is desired.

What is parallax in a scope?

Parallax occurs when the target and reticle are on different planes within the scope. It is detectable when you move your head or eye around while looking through the scope, and the reticle appears to move or swim around the object at which you are aiming.

Complete List of Items Mentioned

(Click the links for the most up-to-date prices)

• Simmons 22 Mag 3-9x32mm
• Primary Arms 3-9x44mm
• Bushnell Banner 3-9x50mm
• Vortex Crossfire II 2-7x32mm
• Sig Sauer Whiskey 3 3-9x50mm
• Vortex Diamondback 3-9x40mm
• Leupold VX-Freedom 3-9x40mm
• 22LR Ammo

Have you added a scope to your 22LR rifle?

Which one did you go with?

Let me know in the comments below.

Further reading on Firstworldcrusader.com: Are you interested in learning more about guns and gear?

This list of the Best Red Dot Sights can help you choose the best optic for your rifle.

In addition, here are the Best AR-15 Upgrades & Accessories that can help you get more out of your primary battle rifle.

By Elizabeth Dandy. Updated: November 2024.

Provided by TruthAboutAnimals (Photo: iStock by Getty Images).

Grizzly bear paws are large, long and powerful. And you may be wondering how big are grizzly bear claws? You may have thought of those massive paws when you saw the extreme strength that was used to kill a moose.

Also known as the grizzly bear paw or just the grizzly bear claws, there isn’t a lot of information on how big they actually are. Being strong by nature, one would assume they are pretty damn big.

Grizzly Bear claws are part of this species’s equipment for survival and hunting. They are incredibly large and powerful, which is what makes them such a feared predator.

Having a set of grizzly bear claws like this would be a bit of a bummer for people who have things that need to stay intact, but it sure would make mincemeat out of something fragile!

Let’s start to find out how big are grizzly bear paws, what the claws look like, their sizes and sharpness.

Table of Contents.

Do Grizzly Bears Have Paws?

The answer is yes, but not in the way you might think.

What Are Paws?

Paws are thought to have evolved from fins, which are found on fish and amphibians. All four-legged animals have some kind of paw, though they may look different depending on the species.

For example, dogs have paws with five digits while bears have four-toed paws. The front paw on a bear has two large claws that are used for digging and catching prey, while their back paws have three smaller claws that help them climb trees and rocks.

The Anatomy of The Grizzly Bear Paw.

A grizzly bear’s paw anatomy includes:

Ankle bone or tarsus: This is made up of two bones (the tibia and fibula) that connect your ankle to your foot bones (metatarsals). It allows for flexion and extension of your leg so you can walk or run quickly.

For example, when you bend your knee or push off with your toes as you run, it’s due to the action of these two bones working together as one unit.

Metacarpal bones: These are located at the front part of each paw and correspond to our finger bones;

Do Grizzly Bears Have Claws?

Grizzly bears have large, strong claws that they use to catch and kill prey. They also use their claws to dig into the snow to find food.

Grizzly bears are considered omnivores, which means that they eat both plants and animals. Grizzly bear claws are used for digging through snow in search of prey like elk or bison. They also use their claws to attack other animals for food.

The grizzly bear’s large paws allow it to easily walk on snow, ice, and rocky terrain. The grizzly’s front paws are larger than its rear paws by about 25%.

Their front paws measure from 7 inches long to 8 inches long (17 cm). The rear paws measure from 5 inches long to 6 inches long (12 cm).

Facts About The Grizzly Bear Paw

Grizzly Bear Feet Facts: The grizzly bear has a double pad between each toe on both front and hind feet.

This pad helps protect against injury while walking through snow or over rocky terrain where sharp objects could easily puncture their pads without such protection.

The grizzly bear’s claws are long and curved like those of a dog or cat, but much larger than those of any other mammal in North America except for the tiger seal (which has no claws).

The paws of a grizzly bear are extremely large, powerful and can have five digits. The front two digits are thumb-like while the rest are more like fingers.

The paw pads are thick, tough and covered in small scales that protect them from abrasion and injury. A grizzly’s claws are sharp and curved and they can be up to three inches long.

The claws help with climbing trees, digging food out of the ground and defending themselves against predators.

The Paw Size of The Grizzly Bear.

The grizzly bear paw size is about 10 inches long and 6 inches wide. The claws are 2 inches in length. The paws are used for digging and grooming as well as walking, climbing and swimming.

The long claws are used to tear apart meat, while the short ones are used for climbing trees and digging food out of the ground.

The grizzly bear is the largest member of the bear family. They can reach up to 7 feet tall when standing on their hind legs, but they usually stand at just 5 feet tall when walking around on all fours!

They weigh between 400 and 700 pounds, although some have weighed as much as 1,500 pounds!

A grizzly bear’s diet consists mainly of plants such as berries, roots and grasses. They also eat fish, deer, elk and carrion (dead animals).

The grizzly bear is an omnivore which means it eats both plants and meat.

Measuring The Strength of Grizzly Bear Swipe.

A grizzly bear swipe is a lot stronger than it looks. The paw swipe is one of the strongest animal movements ever tested, according to a new study published in the Journal of Experimental Biology.

The researchers found that when a bear swipes down from an upright position, its paw exerts about 2,300 pounds per square inch (psi) of force on the ground, or about 1,000 psi more than the bite of an alligator (which tops out at about 1,000 psi).

That’s about 10 times more force than what scientists previously thought bears could generate using their paws. That’s not just impressive for an animal, it’s impressive for any species.

“It was amazing to see how much energy these animals can produce with their paws,” said lead researcher Michael Sawaya, who studies biomechanics at Stanford University in California. “We’ve seen this kind of power before in other mammals like primates but never in carnivores like bears.”

How to Identify Grizzly Bear Paw Prints

When you’re out in the wilderness and come across fresh bear tracks, it can be difficult to distinguish between the tracks of a black bear and grizzly bear.

While black bears are often found in the same regions as grizzlies, the latter tends to travel more widely and is more aggressive. The best way to tell them apart is by looking at their paw prints.

Grizzlies have larger, broader feet with claws that are longer than those of black bears. The front pad on a grizzly’s foot is wider than the rear pad, while in black bears it’s about equal in size. Their claws also tend to be longer and more curved than those of black bears.

Another difference between grizzlies and black bears is how they walk.

Grizzlies tend to walk flat-footed with little or no arch or heel strike, while black bears tend to walk with an arched foot with an exaggerated heel strike due to their smaller size and shorter claws compared to grizzlies.

Grizzly Bear Claw Facts

Grizzly bear claws can reach up to 8 inches in length. They are curved and sharp, and are used for tearing into prey.

The claws also play an important role in the grizzly bear’s defense. They can be used to swipe at an attacker, or to grab onto objects and pull them closer.

Claws are also helpful when the grizzly is digging for food or shelter. They can dig through tough soil quickly and easily.

Grizzly bears use their claws for a variety of activities, including hunting, climbing, and swimming.

How Sharp Are Grizzly Bears Claws?

Grizzly bears are omnivores, which means that their diet can consist of both meat and plants. However, grizzlies are mostly carnivorous, meaning that they eat mostly meat. Their diet consists of fish, ungulates (deer), small mammals such as rodents, insects, and fruits and vegetables.

Their claws help them capture their prey. Grizzly bear claws can grow to be up to 4 inches long. They are curved and sharp, which helps the grizzlies catch their prey. The claws also help the bears climb trees.

Grizzly Bear Paw vs. Polar Bear Paw Size

Grizzly bears and polar bears are two of the largest land-based predators on Earth, but they’re still different in many ways. Their paws are no exception: grizzly bears have much larger paws than their polar cousins.

The average grizzly bear paw is about 15 inches long and 10 inches wide, while the average polar bear paw is only about 13 inches long and 6 inches wide.

That’s a difference of almost an inch in length and more than 2 inches in width! However, these measurements vary greatly depending on species and subspecies—some grizzlies have even been reported to grow as large as 20 inches across!

But why do grizzlies have such big paws? It’s all about weight distribution.

Grizzlies can weigh up to 1,500 pounds (680 kilograms), which makes it extremely difficult for them to walk on snow without sinking into it unless they’re using their claws for traction (which isn’t always possible).

By contrast, polar bears weigh half as much as grizzlies do and live primarily on ice instead of snow, so they don’t need such large feet.

Conclusion:

If you are planning on ever seeing a Grizzly Bear then I would expect that you would have some basic knowledge about them.

One of the first things that many people want to know is how big Grizzly Bear claws and paws really are. Once you have that figured out then you will be able to better plan for living in the same area as these magnificent creatures.

See what others are doing.

Find the best hunting rangefinder is quite a task these days with so many great brands and options out there. Long gone are the days where you only had a few top picks to choose from.

Now, each and every hunter has to sort through all of these makes and models, and review each of their best features and characteristics. While today’s models are super advanced, they really haven’t made it easy for us hunters to figure out which one is best suited for our style of hunting.

The Quick Summary Overall, the Best Hunting Rangefinder is the Vortex Optics Crossfire HD!Below you can check out other top options including the… – Best Rangefinder For Bowhunting: Leupold RX-Fulldraw 5- Best Binocular With Rangefinder For Hunting: Vortex Optics Fury HD 5000- Most Affordable Hunting Rangefinder: TIDEWE Hunting RangefinderAnd scroll down to find out the one thing to avoid when picking your rangefinder!

This blog article was personally constructed after comparing my own notes from using a few of these models, to the thousands of reviews and comments out there on the internet.

Additionally, I also had to get on the phone with a few brands to clarify what these specific features mean and how they best help hunters when we’re out in the field.

Of course, I wasn’t able to list and review every single model out there, so I decided to categorize the top picks within a few select categories. These areas are heavily searched by hunters, and I think these choices will benefit hunters the most.

Trivia Question: Do you know when and where the first laser rangefinder was invented? (Click here to see answer).

Full Disclosure: Some of the links below may be affiliate links. If you follow an affiliate link and end up making a purchase, we may receive a small commission at no extra cost to you.

Best Rangefinder For Hunting

Vortex Optics Crossfire HD 1400

The Crossfire HD 1400 is the 2024 best rangefinder for hunting because it is perfect for both bow and rifle hunters, and offers a variety of features designed to enhance your hunting experience. With a maximum range of 1,400 yards and an HD optical system, this rangefinder lets you spot your targets with ease, no matter the environment.

The Crossfire HD 1400 has three target modes and two ranging modes, ensuring accurate readings. It also features a red TOLED display, making the readout clear in any lighting conditions. Despite its lightweight design, this rangefinder is built to last, with durable materials that can withstand the rigors of hunting and the great outdoors.

In conclusion, the Crossfire HD 1400 is the ultimate laser rangefinder for hunters. Its outstanding range, multiple modes, clear display, and lightweight, durable design make it the perfect choice for bow and rifle hunters alike. So if you’re looking for a reliable and versatile rangefinder to take your hunting game to the next level, be sure to check out the Crossfire HD 1400.

For latest prices, and more information about the Vortex Optics Crossfire HD 1400, click below!

Best Bowhunting Rangefinder

Leupold RX-Fulldraw 5

Alert to all bowhunters out there – We have a pick for you!

If you’re a bowhunter or competitive archer, you need a rangefinder that can keep up with you and your tough shots, look no further than the RX-FullDraw 5 – the most advanced archery rangefinder on the market. It uses your bow’s velocity, peep height, arrow weight, and shot angles to provide laser-accurate ranges tailored to your equipment.

But that’s not all – the RX-FullDraw 5 now accepts even lower velocity inputs, accommodating arrows as slow as 170 feet per second. And with its updated flightpath technology, you can choose from two modes to view arrow obstructions up to 85 yards away. Plus, the rangefinder’s Last Target mode can cut through rain, fog, and snow, ensuring accuracy even in challenging weather conditions.

With six times magnification, a bright red OLED display, and a speedy laser engine, the RX-FullDraw 5 gives you a clear advantage on the field. So if you’re looking for a rangefinder that’s customized to your archery gear and conditions, the RX-FullDraw 5 is the ultimate choice.

For latest prices, and more information on the Leupold RX-Fulldraw 5, take a look below!

Best Hunting Binocular With Rangefinder

Vortex Optics Fury HD 5000

The Fury HD 5000 is the ultimate laser rangefinder binocular for hunters, archers, and shooters. With 10x magnification and 42mm objective lenses, it provides an extremely effective and versatile tool for the field.

Its primary HCD mode displays an angle-compensated distance that’s perfect for most hunters and shooters, whether using a rifle or a bow. Choose from two target modes: Best Mode, which displays the strongest range result, and Last Mode, which displays the furthest distance and is ideal for ranging targets behind obstructions. With the Fury HD 5000, you’ll never miss a shot again.

For latest prices, and more information on the Vortex Optics Fury HD 5000, we have that as well!

Most Affordable Hunting Rangefinder

TIDEWE Hunting Rangefinder

The TideWe rangefinder offers 6x magnification and displays vertical and horizontal distance, speed, and can continuously scan all factors influencing your play. It accurately ranges from 3 to 1000 yards with fast measurements within +/- 1 yard and a measuring speed of <0.5s. It is lightweight at only 0.35lb and durable, made from strong materials to protect from drops and is weather-resistant.

This rangefinder is easy to use with a simple button push to get instant range data on an easy-to-read LCD display. It comes with a rechargeable Li-ion battery that can measure 20000 times after a full charge, has a clear LCD display, and an ergonomic design for comfortable handling.

And one last thing – the TideWe rangefinder features a popular camo pattern and includes a bag to save the rangefinder.

For latest prices, and more information on the TIDEWE Hunting Rangefinder, we have that as well!

Things To Consider When Choosing A Hunting Rangefinder

Maximum Distance

Comparing your next rangefinder’s max distance to your weapon of choice and style of hunting is going to be a key consideration point before making a final purchase.

Each manufacturer should properly list out their model’s maximum effective distance, but there’s one thing to keep in mind here….

Some models are only going to highlight the max range at a reflective target. As a hunter, you’ll want to check what that top range is going to be at ‘game’ – not just something that’s 100% reflective.

Pro Tip: Make sure your rangefinder has an angle compensation feature, especially if you hunt from a treesstand.

Ease Of Use & Display

Hunting rangefinders have evolved to offer amazing ranging capabilities, but not all of them offer these top features in an effective package.

If you want a rangefinder that’s going to properly adjust for elevation, wind & fog, choice of reticle, etc. it’s clear that you might have to toggle through a few options within your optical.

After analyzing what all your rangefinder can offer, make sure to spend the time figuring out how to enable these features. Most optimal options are going to offer a simple, single ‘Mode’ model button to toggle through everything. If you’re doing more than this, you might be getting yourself in a more complicated position.

Object Detection

When hunting in wooded areas, or in inclement weather, you need to have a rangefinder that’s going to successful pick up your desired object with minimal interference.

Hunting with a subpar optical in wind and fog, or having brush in between you and your prey can cause serious issues.

Make sure your new hunting rangefinder has some sort of technology that can properly eliminate these peripheral objects to identify what’s important. Not doing so can provide inaccurate range readings.

Hunting Style

Everything above and below in this article is going to come down to this one question – “What type of rangefinder do I need for my hunting style?”

Back in the day, you were ultimately stuck with only a few options when it came to rangefinders. Now, you have the option to choose binocular style, bow-specific, long range, etc.

Of course, you can always choose a more expensive model to take care of more than you need, but if you want to be a little more realistic be sure to compare the available features, alongside price points, to what you’re really going to be needing this for.

Most Popular Rangefinder FAQs

1. What Is A Hunting Rangefinder?

A hunting rangefinder is an optical instrument, typically handheld, that is used to determine the distance between a hunter and their prey.

2. How Do Rangefinders Work?

Rangefinders send a laser beam towards your target. An internal digital clock measures the time it takes for the beam to reach the target and back. It then calculates the distance based on that time.

3. What’s The Difference Between A Hunting And Golf Rangefinder?

All in all, there’s not a lot of core difference between hunting and golf rangefinders. Largely the difference comes in the different modes available, along with their associated price points.

4. How Much Do Rangefinders Cost?

On average, most hunting rangefinders are going to cost you between $100 and $600. While there are some cheaper than this, the quality starts to slip really quick. Lastly, any rangefinder above this price, those that range up to $2,000 are most likely going to be reserved for extreme hunters and guides.

5. What Outdoor Brands Make Rangefinders?

The top hunting rangefinder brands including the following:

1. Bushnell

2. Leupold

3. Nikon

4. Vortex

5. Mavin

6. Swarovski

6. Are There Good Rangefinder Options Under $200?

Yes, there are several great rangefinder options under $200. For an easy list of these, here’s a link to Amazon with the best hunting rangefinders under $200.

One Thing To Avoid!

Make Sure You Have Angle Compensation

Angle compensation is a crucial feature in any hunting rangefinders. It calculates the difference in elevation and provides an accurate reading as if you were shooting on level ground. Without it, the elevation change can create a false reading and result in a missed shot or a wounded animal.

For example, on a 30-degree angle slope with a line-of-sight shot distance of 500 yards, without angle compensation, you would aim for 500 yards. However, with angle compensation, you’ll need to shoot for 433 yards. So, if you’re in the market for a new hunting rangefinder, make sure you choose one with angle compensation.

Answer: The first laser rangefinder was invented in France in 1933.

For a blog about the Best Hunting Binoculars, take a look today!

Outdoor enthusiasts often encourage people to “forget the forecast.” It’s a clever way of saying to enjoy the outdoors regardless of the weather. With so many variables at play, waiting for the right conditions would keep many people inside. But does the same logic apply when it comes to bowhunting? That depends. Weather should always be top of mind for bowhunters. It affects animal movement, personal safety and meat spoilage times.

Deciding whether to hunt or not in certain weather is mostly personal preference. However, certain conditions require greater preparation, and at times, a decision to stay inside can be for the best. This preparation is important enough to note that the National Bowhunter Education Foundation has an entire section dedicated to preparing for weather conditions in its bowhunter education curriculum.

Bowhunting in the rain can dramatically change your day in both good and bad ways. Here’s a look at the pros and cons of bowhunting in rainy conditions.

Pros:

Quiet Conditions

My 2021 elk season started out frustrating. Hot, dry conditions made it sound as if I were smashing a bag full of chips with every step on the forest floor. The crunchy ground made it impossible to do anything but sit patiently and hope an elk walked by. But then it rained. Wet weather changed everything. The rain drenched the grass, leaves and pine needles, making it possible to sneak silently through the forest. The morning after the wet weather moved in, I snuck up on two bulls fighting in the trees, an encounter that would have been impossible the previous day.

Concealed Movement

Rain helps conceal movement because it creates movement. As raindrops fall, they move branches and leaves, which can be just enough to mask your movements, including drawing your bow.

Scent Killer

The smell of fresh rain is so powerful that you’ll find it replicated in scented candles and home air fresheners. But rain isn’t just an odor; it’s an odor-killer. Rain helps mask human scent. It can wash away scent trails and make it more difficult for deer to detect human presence.

Changing Wildlife Movement

Bowhunters targeting ungulates like elk and deer typically expect the majority of animal movement to occur during the early morning hours and just before dark. That’s when animals are most active feeding and moving. However, weather patterns can change traditional movement. Light rain doesn’t typically cause animals to run for cover. Heavy rains will usually make wildlife hunker down. However, after a downpour, many animals will be up and moving, looking for food. And I’ve had some incredible rainy days in the field when the animals seemed to be moving all day long.

Less Human Pressure

Remember the advice, “forget the forecast”? Well, not everybody listens. Rainy days keep a lot of hunters home. If you’re not afraid of getting a little wet, you might find yourself alone in the field.

Cons:

Added Gear Requirements

Hunting in wet weather requires the right gear. You’ll need a waterproof jacket, pants and boots. Good rain gear can get expensive, and many materials are pretty noisy. But sitting or hiking in wet weather isn’t very fun either. Getting wet isn’t only uncomfortable; it can be dangerous. Hypothermia can happen in cold conditions, like downpours. And even if the situation isn’t dangerous, shivering can give away your position or make it impossible to hold your bow steady.

Dangerous Lightning

There’s a big difference between bowhunting in a rainstorm versus a thunderstorm. Lightning is dangerous, and you don’t want to risk getting caught in the field in it, especially in a treestand. When the forecast is calling for lightning, you should probably stay home. If you find yourself caught in an unexpected thunderstorm, leave the field as soon as possible if you can. Get out of the treestand immediately. Get away from any other metal. Avoid tall objects and fence lines.

Washed-Out Blood Trails

Rain hides human scent, but it also washes away blood trails. Often blood trails play a crucial role in the recovery of downed game. If you plan to hunt in the rain, it might be a good idea to have a blood-tracking dogon standby in case you take a shot — if using one is legal in your state.

Conclusion

Whether you bowhunt in the rain is up to you, but there are always some important considerations. Check the forecast every day and look into the specifics. A drizzle is different from a downpour, and you’ll want to stay home if lightning is expected. Bring the right layers. Pack extra clothing in the truck for a quick change at the end of the day in case you get wet. Make sure you have flagging tape in your pack. Rain will wash away a blood trail fast, but flagging tape will stay.

Bowhunting in the rain can provide a lot of opportunities. If you can handle a little wet weather, you might be rewarded with a day you won’t forget.

At first glance, moose and horses look somewhat similar. They’re both ungulates, or mammals with hooves, walk on four legs, and have a similar body and head shape. That’s about where the similarities end, though.

In the U.S., horses are almost exclusively pets, while moose almost exclusively live in the wild. Male moose have antlers; horses don’t. And while there are a few different species of moose, just like there are many horse breeds, horses are faster while moose are larger. Generally, a moose weighs up to 1,400 pounds (635 kg), while horses typically weigh a maximum of 1,200 (550 kg) pounds.

Here are 11 photos that help showcase the size difference between moose and horses.

Jump to:

• 1. Size Comparison
• 2. There Are Some Exceptions
• 3. A Little Bit Taller
• 4. Just a Bystander
• 5. Different Sizes for Different Climates
• 6. Watch the Road
• 7. Keep a Safe Distance
• 8. Watch Out for the Antlers
• 9. An Aggressive Moose is a Dangerous Moose
• 10. Sometimes, They Get Along Just Fine
• 11. Care to Share?
• Final Thoughts

1. Size Comparison

On average, a moose will be heavier, taller, and longer than a horse. In fact, they’re the largest species in the family Cervidae, which also includes elk and deer.

2. There Are Some Exceptions

While moose are typically larger than horses, there are some horse breeds that have the moose beat. The Shire horse, for example, is one of the largest horse breeds and can greatly outweigh a moose. A stallion Shire horse usually ranges from 1,950-2,400 pounds (900-1100 kg). The largest Shire horse, a gelding named Samson, topped the scales at 3,360 pounds (1,524 kg)!

3. A Little Bit Taller

While the moose is closer to the camera in this photo, it’s still pretty clear that it’s taller than the horse. The average height of a moose at the shoulders is between 4 feet 7 inches (1.3 meters) and 6 feet 11 inches (2.1 meters), while horses, on average, are about five feet tall (1.5 meters).

4. Just a Bystander

Though there have been people throughout history who have managed to domesticate moose, it doesn’t happen often. This moose seems perfectly content to watch his fellow ungulates pull a wagon.

5. Different Sizes for Different Climates

Domesticated horses can be found all over the world today, but modern horses originally came from central Asia. Moose, however, are only found in the wild in the northern parts of North America and Eurasia. They stay warm thanks to their thick fur but also their massive size, which helps their bodies retain heat.

6. Watch the Road

While moose are usually larger, both moose and horses are big enough to cause big problems on the road. Both are typically taller than a sedan, and moose can be as tall as or taller than a pickup truck. While not as common as hitting a deer, there are still about 500 incidents involving moose each year in New England alone. Moose can also do much more damage to vehicles and are more likely to result in fatalities than an accident with a dear.

While it’s much less common to hit a horse, as they don’t often roam free, there are still a handful of incidents each year. They most often happen between October and December and usually on main roads. Things are especially bad in Amish country, where they use horse-drawn carriages instead of vehicles. Pennsylvania calculated that between 2007-2016, there were 633 crashes that involved horses and buggies, with a total of 23 deaths.

To avoid colliding with a moose or horse, use caution when driving through wilderness, farmland, or areas where horse-drawn carriages are common.

7. Keep a Safe Distance

It’s hard to say what would happen if a moose and horse were to meet; there isn’t a lot of research done, and it would depend on the specific horse and moose. However, moose are known to be aggressive at times and, because of their size, can inflict serious damage. If you’re riding your horse and run into a moose, it’s best to keep your distance and get away as quickly and calmly as possible, especially if your horse spooks easily.

8. Watch Out for the Antlers

While the body of a moose is typically going to be taller than the body of a horse, that size difference only grows when you factor in a moose’s antlers. The antlers, which are made of bone, average between four and five feet (1.2-1.5 meters) wide and can weigh between 25 and 30 pounds (11-16.5 kilograms). Only male moose, or bulls, have antlers, and they typically use their antlers to assert dominance.

9. An Aggressive Moose is a Dangerous Moose

Most often, the male moose, or bulls, are the aggressive ones. While moose typically will leave you alone, they can also carry a parasite called a brainworm that increases their aggression. If an angry moose attacks a horse, the moose may fight using its antlers or by kicking with its front hooves. Moose can kick both straight ahead and sideways. Combined with their muscular build, this makes them particularly dangerous in a fight.

10. Sometimes, They Get Along Just Fine

Just because moose are bigger and stronger doesn’t mean they can’t get along with their distant cousins. Blogger and horse trainer Carola Sossdorf adopted an orphaned moose named Emma when the moose was just a few days old. While a female moose is less likely to be aggressive anyway, being raised among other horses likely helped her get used to having horses around.

11. Care to Share?

This photographer managed to snap a photo of a horse and moose sharing a meal, but that doesn’t happen often, in part because the two animals have different dietary needs. Both are herbivores, meaning they exclusively eat plants, but they choose different plants for their diets. Horses typically dine on grass and hay, as well as the oats in horse feed.

Moose, however, typically eat leaves and twigs from woody plants they can find in their natural habitat. Leaving food out for moose is not advised, as offering them food outside of their diet can cause them harm.

Final Thoughts

On average, you’ll find moose to be taller than horses, but there are always exceptions. Part of the reason moose are built to be larger is that their body mass helps them survive in the colder climates they inhabit. Because horses are domesticated in North America, they’re usually more used to being around people. Moose, however, can sometimes become aggressive, so it’s best to avoid them when possible.

Both animals are beautiful creatures with majestic, strong natures. While you can snuggle up to a horse, given the tendencies of moose, it’s best to watch them from a distance.

This article is one of many from our Aoudad Prep Series

Can you eat Aoudad?

You’re damn right you can. Is it the easiest game meat to prepare? No. However, it really isn’t that much different than other “tough” species like Mountain Goat or Ibex. The name of the game is to fight the texture via slow cooking, cutting thin pieces of meat and/or grinding the meat.

I personally believe the bias against eating big Aoudad rams is more cultural than anything else. Folks say “they smell like hell” or “my dog won’t even eat that rank meat”. Yes, a big ram does stink but so does a slammer big horn sheep or a bull elk who has spent the past two weeks of the rut pissing all over his belly and front legs. Be careful how you take care of the animal in the field, and aoudad meat smells just like other game meats. When I have prepared it, most folks describe the taste as mild, almost lean beef-like.

Cliff and Amy’s Aoudad Tacos Recipe

This recipe throws in the three important components to any Mountain Goat, Ibex or Aoudad preparation: 1) Physical Texture – We slice the meat thin. 2) Lean – We add a little pork fat for taste and extra fat. 3) Cooking Texture – We slow cook the meat for about 1 hr. This taco recipe is basic and doesn’t include any specific amounts or exact cooking times. Make it to your taste.

Ingredients

• Purple Onion
• Cornstarch
• Limes
• Fresh Garlic
• Corn Tortillas
• Red Chili – I use Blue Ribbon Medium Hot
• Fatty Pork Cut – I use shoulder roast
• Aoudad Back Strap
• Butter
• Salt and Pepper

You will need a deep stock pot and a large skillet.

Step 1 – Prepare the Meat

One of the most important components of preparing game meat is to remove all the silver skin, hair, dirt, etc… A lot of this can be done in the field, but tidy it all up before cooking.

Separate the muscle groups on the backstrap and slice into 6-12″ pieces so you can better remove everything except the red meat.

Next, cut thin slices across the grain of the backstrap. Shooting for slices 1/4″ thick is a good target.

Once you have all the slices done, push them together in batches and cut across the meat. The result is best described as “diced”.

When I add any domestic meat/fat to wild game meat, I try to use as little as possible so I retain most the healthy aspects of the game meat. For this preparation, using a well trimmed yet fatty pork shoulder, I used roughly 1/6th the amount of the shoulder relative to aoudad meat. Unlike the aoudad, I cut the pork shoulder into larger chunks around 1×1 inch squares. Mix the pork with the aoudad and season with salt and pepper.

Step 2 – Brown the Meat

Start off by cutting some fresh garlic and adding it to a hot pan with an ample amount of butter. Don’t skimp on that butter! Next, slowly add the meat. As the meat cooks on high heat, periodically stir. You want the meat to brown with a golden color before turning the heat off. The meat should be completely cooked on the outside, but retain it’s “juicyness”.

Step 3 – Slow Cook in Chili

This is where it starts to get fun. First, move the browned meat into a deep stock pot. Next, add the Blue Ribbon red chili with a cup of water. As we slowly cook the meat in the chili over low heat, we will get a reduction in the chili. The water mitigates some of the natural thickening and keeps all the meat covered while cooking with the chili. Stir occasionally and cook on low heat for 1-1.5 hrs.

As you get close to being done cooking the meat, use small amounts of cornstarch and water to thicken/thin the chili sauce to the consistency you prefer. For making tacos, you need the sauce to be close to syrup thickness. When using cornstarch, never quit stirring or it will ball-up into little gross dumplings.

Step 4 – Serve

This is all up to personal preference. We chop up some fresh onion and lettuce, warm up corn tortillas, cut limes, and serve with cilantro. Enjoy!

Print Recipe

Making great venison bratwurst, or any sausage for that matter, is an art form, in my opinion, one that begins with precision. While I feel most great wild-game cooking requires little else besides fire and salt, a greater degree of knowledge and patience is necessary for venison sausage. In my head, it’s the difference between a caveman and a chisel, versus an architect and his or her mechanical pencil.

Months ago I stood in awe – like a kid watching a clown making balloon animals – as Joshua Smith, co-owner of the Barred Owl Butcher & Table in Columbia, MO, took a coil of sausage and effortlessly tied and braided 15 pounds.

Later, he shared his bratwurst spice mix recipe with me, and I used it for a blend of whitetail and pork fat. End result: Amazing. Below are his insights:

“I prefer to use metric weights and a good digital scale (bonus points if it is accurate to the half or tenth of a gram) for measurement in my sausage and charcuterie projects,” Smith said, “as I find it to be much more reliable than a system of cups and tablespoons as it is both easily scalable (just move a decimal point) and because volume and weight don’t directly correspond from one brand/style of salt to the next.”

Amount (in grams) Ingredient Charcutier’s Percentage 10,000 g 60:40 Venison to Pork Fat 100% 180 g Fine Sea Salt (or pure Kosher salt) 1.8% 30 g Ground White Pepper 0.3% 20 g Ground Ginger 0.2% 20 g Ground Nutmeg 0.2% 10 g Ground Marjoram 0.1% 10 g Ground Celery Seed 0.1% As needed 29-32mm Hog Casings n/a

Professional meat processors “build” their sausage using the percentage method, as shown in this recipe. Meat is always 100% and ingredients are based on that. For example, if five pounds of ground venison blend (three pounds venison, two pounds pork fat), reads 2,268g on the scale, I would need:

• 40.824g fine sea salt
• 6.804g white pepper
• 4.536g each ginger and nutmeg
• 2.268g each marjoram and celery seed

“I would round all of these to the nearest whole, half or tenth of a gram depending on the capabilities of my scale,” Smith suggested.

Yes, you can “fake it” without a digital scale, and I personally have done that, but you’re risking something being “off.”

Making venison bratwurst is more than just grinding and blending. There are a few rules to follow and some tips that make things easier. While it may look daunting, sausage making is actually easy once you have the basic process down.

Venison Sausage-Making Steps and Tips

• Fat content is up to you. Some folks run with as low as 20%, while I know others go as high as 60% (or higher).

• Inquire with your local butcher about picking up pork fat (not pork meat, but just the fat), as it is a must for quality wild sausage, in my opinion.

• Invest in hog casings, not collagen, for bratwurst.

• Use quality equipment. MEAT! (meatyourmaker.com) sells commercial-grade tools direct to consumers so there are offerings at a lower cost. I have found lower-quality equipment simply leads to quicker frustration.

• Invest in a meat mixer, versus your hands, to mix together ground meat and spices.

• Plan to devote at least a few hours to this process. (Read: have ample beer on hand.)

• Keep the meat VERY COLD throughout the entire process. I personally prefer to grind, mix, and stuff when the meat is still very slightly frozen. Others put thawed meat in freezer for an hour or two before starting, and freeze for an hour between each step.

• If running a commercial-grade grinder (i.e., one with a motor that produces heat), consider freezing all grinder parts that will come in contact with meat (e.g., chute, grinding plates, etc.). Otherwise, if grinding several pounds, the motor can cause parts to heat up and thus potentially turn your meat to mush.

• Some folks spice their meat before grinding. Some of these folks are the same who stuff sausage using their grinder. I opt to grind, then mix thoroughly with a meat mixer. It’s your call. (Meat mixer means you aren’t adding heat from your hands to meat.)

• Follow the directions on your casings for rinsing and soaking and sliding onto stuffing tube.

• After grinding, when meat mixing in mixer, add spices gradually and mix until spices are absorbed and meat is adhesive, almost sticking to your hand (but still, ideally, very cold).

• When it comes to stuffing, sometimes it helps to work with a partner, though this isn’t essential. While one person cranks, the other can concentrate on easing the casing off the stuffing tube and filling at desired speed (this does require communicating with the cranker).

• Leave tag end (one hanging off tube) untied, as air will come out stuffer ahead of the meat, and it needs to escape.

• Error on side of under-stuffing versus over-stuffing casings. With over-stuffing, you risk breaking casings when filling or twisting to tie off links. With under-stuffing, you can always direct meat through casings when it’s time to twist and tie off links.

• Let the meat come out in one long sausage and spin gradually so it settles in a coil.

• When finished stuffing and ready to spin and tie links, tie your tag end with an overhand knot.

• Use a fine needle of some sort to pop air bubbles (I’ve found this also helps prevent casing bursting when twisting).

• Pinch links to size of 6 inches and spin one direction then alternate spinning direction for next link (so not to unravel previous link).

• Tie other end when finished twisting links.

• Ideally, allow sausages to hang without touching for a few hours then place in fridge overnight so casings can tighten. Casings must sit for approximately 24 hours before you can cut links.

• Even if casings burst, don’t fret – those sausages are indeed salvageable, if not a huge burst, and great with this below recipe. (They just won’t look as pretty.)

Wisconsin-Style Venison Brats and Hard-Cider Kraut Recipe

Ingredients:

• 4 (6-inch) venison brats
• ½ green cabbage head, core removed
• 36 ounces preferred beer
• 36 ounces preferred hard apple cider
• 1 tablespoon kosher salt
• 2 tablespoons freshly ground black pepper
• 1/2 cup malt vinegar
• 1 medium yellow onion, sliced

Get the Recipe: Wisconsin-Style Venison Brats and Hard-Cider Kraut

It’s known as the Night of the Grizzlies. Over fifty years ago, two women were killed by two different grizzly bears on the same night. The repercussions of the incident can still be seen in the way bears are managed today. But it also gave birth to a powerful myth—it’s dangerous for women to spend time in the woods while menstruating.

Back in the early 1980s, Caroline Byrd worked on a seasonal trail crew with the U.S. Forest Service. Most summers she worked just outside of Yellowstone National Park. And for a few of those seasons, the crew was made up entirely of women.

“When people would run across us on the trail, they were always like, ‘Wait, you’re girls!’ and ‘We’d be like, yeah, uh huh, we are!'” Byrd said.

It was a really powerful experience for Byrd; one that meant a lot of hard work.

“Here we were out in the wilderness for 10 days at a time,” described Byrd. “Doing really hard manual labor that’s super satisfying…clearing trails, using a cross-cut saw, and a double bit ax, and a polaski.”

In 1983, she stayed on late, doing end-of-summer stuff like cleaning up campgrounds and marking timber to be cut down. And because it was fall, it was hunting season.

“And that’s when we ran across this hunter’s camp,” said Byrd. The hunter had left groceries inside a wall tent, and had returned to town. While he was away, a mama bear and her cub had ransacked the camp. Bear encounters were rare at the time since the number of bears in Yellowstone’s ecosystem was low. That’s why a special agent came all the way from Colorado to investigate.

“He was aghast that women were working in the back country where there were bears,” said Byrd. “And we were like ‘no, that’s not the issue!’ The issue is this hunter left his food, and bears got into it.”

That’s when the U.S. Forest Service told Byrd and the three other women on her crew that they would no longer be able to work in bear country while they were on their periods.

“Why are we getting restricted like this when this has nothing to do with the fact that there are women on a timber crew working in bear country?” Byrd said. The women were outraged. So they wrote to the Equal Employment Opportunity Office in Denver, and the policy was rescinded. But where exactly did the idea that menstruating women are at a greater risk in bear country come from? That goes back to one fateful night in 1967: the Night of the Grizzlies.

“There was two attacks in Glacier National Park where two different women were killed by two different grizzly bears on the same night,” said Kerry Gunther, the bear biologist for Yellowstone National Park (YNP).

He said the attacks caused the National Park Service to rethink how to deal with bears. The idea was to get bears feeding on native foods instead of human food hand-outs and garbage. Gunther said that meant converting garbage cans and dumpsters into bear-resistant designs, installing food storage boxes in roadside campgrounds and hanging poles for backcountry spots, as well as strictly enforcing regulations that prohibited hand-feeding beers, something once regularly seen in the park. But the Night of Grizzlies also sparked speculation.

“Having two fatalities in just one night was just so rare that people were groping for a reason, and one theory that came about was menstruation might have led to these two fatal bear attacks in Glacier,” said Gunther.

Only one of the women killed was on her period, though. And yet, the theory stuck. That’s why decades later Caroline Byrd and her female colleagues were told they couldn’t work in bear country while they were menstruating. And why in 1988 as a graduate student in environmental studies Byrd tried to debunk the myth.

“I ran a whole statistical analysis of is there anything out there that shows that bears react differently to women than to men? And it came out really strong that no, bears do not respond, or react, or in any way change their behavior based on the gender of the person they’re encountering,” Byrd said.

This lack of definitive evidence remains true today. But so does the myth. And it’s possible Yellowstone’s website may not be helping. A page that’s dedicated to menstruating women in bear country cites Byrd’s statistical analysis. It even breaks down the stats for bear-inflicted human injuries in the park.

For instance, between 1979 and 2018, 50 people were injured by bears within Yellowstone, 39 of those were men, while 11 were women. And out of those 11, none of the women were on their periods. As such, the website indicates, “the bear-inflicted human injury data from YNP does not indicate any correlation between bear attacks and menstruation.”

But the website also says women can take precautions if they’re concerned, like using tampons instead of pads.

“I do feel like the way it’s worded on the website is problematic,” said Margaret Seelie, a reporter that has written about the bears and periods myth.

Another study included on the website is from the late 70s. It tested how polar bears would react to menstrual blood in different scenarios, including how a caged polar bear reacted to a used tampon versus other odors. But both Byrd and Seelie said the research methods were flawed. Seelie also said including the study on the website perpetuates the misconception.

“It’s continuing to support and promote the myth that polar bears or bears are attracted or affected by menstruating women, which is different from a blood soaked tampon.”

Seelie is an avid hiker. Before her own reporting, she was pretty sure that being out in bear country while menstruating was dangerous.

“It’s also part of the menstruation taboo that is in our culture, and this weird fear of menstruation and of menstruating women,” she said. But Seelie explained fears like this keep women out of the woods, and that becomes an issue of quality of life.

“I don’t belong in this air conditioned office,” she said. “I belong out in the world, and I belong out in nature.”

Caroline Byrd agreed, that you shouldn’t have to stay home if you’re on your period.

“It’s perfectly rational for people to be afraid of bears,” said Byrd. “A lot of people are afraid of bears, and that’s just fine. But it’s not rational to be a woman afraid of bears because you’re a woman.”

Have a question about this story? Contact the reporter, Maggie Mullen, at [email protected].

This story was produced by the Mountain West News Bureau, a collaboration between Wyoming Public Media, Boise State Public Radio in Idaho, KUER in Salt Lake City, KUNR in Nevada and KRCC and KUNC in Colorado.

There’s a ton of options out there nowadays when it comes to selecting a riflescope. You have MOA, MIL, various magnifications, different objectives, tube sizes and a ton more. But one of the hardest decisions seems to be around what focal plane to select.

In the past, I’ve always used second focal plane riflescopes for hunting. They have worked great for me on my rifles and I’ve taken a ton of animals with them, but a few years ago I wanted to try something new so I switched to a first focal plane system. Mainly this switch happened because I wanted to help people out with their decisions so I could better explain what option might work best for them and my opinion on them. They both work great, but I wanted to have real-world experience behind each design.

What is a first focal plane (FFP) riflescope?

For starters, we need to define a first focal plane riflescope. This is probably the scope version that most people in hunting are a little unfamiliar with. On a first focal plane riflescope, the reticle grows as the image gets bigger when increasing magnification and it does so at the same rate. And as you decrease magnification, the reticle also shrinks as the image gets smaller. This is all because the reticle is located in front of the magnifying lens assembly in the scope.

A first focal plane riflescope also means you can always use those hash marks on the reticle for any elevation holdover or windage no matter what magnification you are on. This can be great if you don’t have time to dial in your turret in a hunting situation and you need to use the hashmarks.

As I stated earlier, the first focal plane riflescope was new to me a few years ago. And since the switch, I don’t know if I’ll ever go back.

The only downside I see is when you’re at super low magnification the reticle is almost too small to see, especially if you’re in thick timber or hunting in low light. I really notice this on my Razor HD Gen II 4.5-27×56 riflescope that is in a first focal plane setup when I go down to 4.5 power. To deal with this, if you’re hunting in a state that allows an illuminated reticle to hunt with, the illumination could allow you to make use of low power in the thick timber on a first focal plane setup. But for the most part, I don’t see this as a hindrance at all since 95% of the time I’m not hunting in thick timber at lower power. But it’s just something you should think about if you’re going to purchase a new riflescope.

Possibly one other downside is if you’re trying to shoot at a very small target in practice at a longer distance because your reticle may block the target due to it getting larger at max power. I’ve seen this happen when I’ve been practicing out in the desert while aiming at something really small and and trying to be very precise.

One of the biggest benefits of a first focal plane riflescope is if you need to quickly make a shot and need to use the elevation or windage lines in the scope, this is when a first focal plane riflescope will shine. For the most part, since I’m a hunter first and not a competition precision rifle shooter, these situations are a little rare for a hunter to need to quickly use elevation holdover marks, but it’s nice to have that feature if you’re ever in this situation on the buck of a lifetime.

Cost is another consideration. Usually, a first focal plane riflescope is a little more expensive than a second focal plane riflescope.

What is a second focal plane (SFP) riflescope?

Second focal plane riflescope is what everyone is most likely used to in hunting. The biggest thing you’ll notice on a second focal plane riflescope is the reticle stays the same size, and the target grows as you increase the magnification. This is due to the reticle being located behind the magnifying lens.

A second focal plane riflescope seems to be nicer to aim through because you have a finer aiming point due to the reticle staying small as you hit full magnification which is great when practicing long-range shots as your reticle isn’t covering up the spot you are trying to aim at.

The one main downside of a second focal plane riflescope is when dealing with adjusting the magnification to anything other than max power and using the reticle for any holdover or windage when taking a shot. If your second focal plane riflescope is set for max power, that means that the holdover lines in the reticle are only dialed in at that one magnification and will not be at the correct yardages if you drop to a lower magnification. So if you drop to a lower magnification and use the holdover lines, it won’t be to scale and you’ll miss the target. So to fix this, if you want to use any of the hashmarks, you must remember that it is only truly calibrated at max magnification.

Keep in mind… that no matter what, in a second focal plane riflescope you can always dial your turrets and use the center of the reticle no matter the magnification you are on. This change in impact discussed above is when using any of the hashmarks outside of the center of the reticle when you are on anything but max power.

This is why whenever I’m hunting, I’ll always shoot at an animal at the highest magnification. Second focal plane riflescopes have worked wonders for a ton of hunters throughout the years. Again, remember that dialing up on the turret on a second focal plane riflescope works perfectly if you just aim at the center dot of the reticle no matter what magnification you are on.

In summary, if you use a second focal plane scope and you want to use the holdover hashmarks, know it will be only valid for one magnification.

If I’m going to need to use the windage or elevation marks in my riflescope, 99.99% of the time I’m going to be at full magnification which means everything will be accurate in a second focal plane setup.

The way I’d explain my reasoning for a second focal plane scope for a lot of years is this; pretty much any shot over 300 yards I’m going to be at full magnification. So at that point, it really doesn’t matter what riflescope plane I’m using since I will be at full magnification and would be able to use the hashmarks on a second focal plane if needed, and I would also have the same benefits of a first focal.

Below is a quick series of graphics to help showcase some of the differences side by side at low magnification and high magnification.

5x magnification

25x magnification

Once again, on the first focal plane riflescope on the 25x power example, you’ll notice that the reticle grows as the image gets bigger due to adding magnification and it does so at the same rate. And on the second focal plane image, the reticle stays the same size as you increase the magnification.

In closing

One last thing I should mention, if you have a riflescope with turrets in either first or second focal plane, it does not matter what magnification you are if you aim using the center of the reticle. You will still make an impact with the correct distance dialed in the turret. You could be at low magnification on a second focal plane riflescope and dial in for a shot with the turret and make an impact. Then you could dial in for a longer shot using the turret and crank the magnification all the way up and still impact the target aiming at the center.

So what do I prefer after using both?

At this point after using both for a long time now in hunting and practice, I’m still leaning toward first focal plane riflescopes. My dad, who also is very into rifles and long range shooting for practice and hunting, doesn’t like second focal plane scopes at all anymore either. Then if you’d ask my brother who I shoot with a ton… he prefers second focal plane on his hunting setup.

So at the end of the day, both focal planes will absolutely work wonders for hunting, it just comes down to what your eyes might prefer and your use case.

If you have the ability, find a friend who has a different scope than you do and really look at a first focal plane and second focal plane side by side. This is going to be the easiest way to determine what style you prefer.

Don’t forget, if you ever have any questions about anything optics, you can reach out to our Optics Manager Cody Nelson. He is a wealth of knowledge and a person you should take advantage of when deciding what optics to purchase. Cody can be reached at [email protected] or call him at (702) 847-8747 | Ext. 2.

Check out all the riflescope options we carry here

The 2012 Kawasaki Teryx4 750 4×4 4-occupant Side by Side, looks very similar to its predecessor, the Teryx 750 4×4, but its outer shell is just about the only thing that remained untouched. The 2012 Kawasaki Teryx4 750 4×4 is actually an all-new model, with an entirely different chassis and a totally new and more powerful engine. Also different is the fact that it is available with or without electric power steering; a first for team Green on this type of vehicle.

Trail riding can be an extremely pleasant and enriching experience and our time with the guys and girls from Team Green at the Brimstone Recreation Area, in Huntsville, Tennessee, was exactly that. With their successful RZR4, Polaris was first to come forward with this new concept of gathering friends or family into one recreational intended vehicle, to further heighten the fun inducing capacity of trail riding and nature exploration. The mere idea is very strong and meaningful, with the potential to revive interest in this therapeutic activity that is the responsible use of maintained trails. Another OEM joining in was something to be expected.

Kawasaki’s Teryx model has always pleased us with its fun-inducing performance and by adding two extra seats; the fun can now be shared with loved ones and that is just awesome news. It comes in a basic form, and two others offering a new level of ease and comfort, with Kawasaki’s Electric Power Steering (EPS) system. The LE model, which comes in rich and deep red or yellow, and graced with the addition of superb looking wheels and a roof, was the most stunning of the trio, when arriving at our beautiful ride site. The weatherman had called for rain, but since when do we care what the weather is like, when going out for some fresh air, to enjoy laughter inducing slow and easy obstacle conquering, or responsibly controlled speed runs through puddles of splashing brown liquid. Before I got out there to discover yet another new place of beauty to ride in, eh I mean drive in; the very first walk around an all-new model is always extra exciting and revealing.

The very first thing that pops to attention is the presence of doors, which is an improvement I have hoped to see on as many Side by Side models as possible. Take the doors off if you need to, but these should be present all the time, as it only makes the entire vehicle feel more reassuring in character, without the frequent branch whipping your legs. I just think it is more logical to consider them an integral part of such a family oriented vehicle, and the ones who don’t want them in the way when working, can easily remove them. I gave one a wiggle and no rattling was discovered, as was also the case with everything else. This family buggy is superbly easy to get in and out of. Once inside, you’ll notice a concentrated effort to position everything just right. Despite the fact that Kawasaki doesn’t fabricate cars, they gave this interior quite a bit of auto flair.

The seats are amazingly comfortable and shaped to cup each leg for a more solid bond between the vehicle and its occupants. Hold on a minute here! When I think about it, these would make for awesome car seats! I might just try and bolt a pair down in my vintage Supra. I would later discover them to be so well made, that they blended in perfectly with the suspension’s smooth yet very communicating feel to it. Combined, they rendered the whole trail riding experience smoother to enjoy than usual. A heightened level of class is also present, with a nicely drawn car-like gear selector that still feels like most other Side by Side versions in operation. Other items in the center console, which by the way shield’s heat like no other I have had the chance to stick to, like the hand operated park brake and cup holders that are close enough to reach with an arm stretch and deep enough to hold your water bottle down, even when things get interestingly rough, add to the comfort level of this cool new play safe and work hard machine. For now, I just couldn’t find anything with room for improvement. Sitting on a back seat impressed me even more, as my knees were a good inch away from the back of the front seat and I felt just as comfortable there as in the front. Remember that I am 6’3″ tall and weigh about …eh, well, you know what I mean.

So we were off. A fun and quick pace was reached without having to slam the pedal, and wait for things to happen, I love this Kawa already! Their trusted 749cc engine was entirely revised to provide 15% more power, and I felt it right away. The vehicle’s most magical element is, of course, the suspension. No use having loads of power, if the vehicle just bounces around without keeping a good grip on the ground. High-performance, compression damping and preload adjustable Showa single-chamber gas-charged shocks were installed, to take care of that business, and they really did a great job, in conjunction with those awesome seats we talked about earlier, to render our first 2012 Kawasaki Teryx4 750 4×4 experience surprisingly pleasant, and more about what the area had to offer all-around us, than how the vehicle was behaving. The stability of the vehicle on flatter grounds is also really good, with a few very logical geometric choices made by those talented Japanese engineers at Kawasaki.

Inspired by sport quads and their high needs in control and stability, they kept the width of the frame at both ends as narrow as possible, so that the lower suspension arms could be designed nice and long, to minimize camber changes during the course of the suspension travel. I was also pleased to notice the positive camber in the rear wheels of our fellow media guys up front. This provides a much better feel to the rear, as the tire patch remains at full efficiency, while negotiating turns. I guess I managed to get a few Kawasaki guys worried, when we got to an open and flat gravel area, and I started doing donuts, which of course, I am aware, is a highly non-recommended type of manoeuvre in any Side by Side, but it was important for me to find out just how stable this vehicle really was. First thing I did, was to simply slowly turn around in circles, to discover a very practical tight turn radius. Then, I gradually picked up speed, keeping the steering turned at the maximum, until the back-end started to slide out, instead of having the interior wheels look to lift off the ground. Absolutely perfect! Almost impossible to roll this thing, on this type of surface anyway, a bit like Honda’s Big Red.

Team Green engineers went back to the drawing boards, to figure out what was needed to create a safe and highly capable four-seat rec/utility Side by Side. This pretty much meant redesigning the Teryx machine from A to Z, with an all-new chassis capable of handling the extra load and the new 749cc V-twin engine with an output shaft connected to a centrifugal clutch, to better protect the engine’s components, as well as enabling the drive belt to stay constantly under tension. This significantly improves its function, while riding through rock-filled sections and extends the life of the belt.

Through precise computer-assisted analysis and lots of testing in the toughest conditions imaginable, they ended up with a totally new approach to Side by Side chassis design, using a double cross-beam configuration as the main part of the structure. The Double-X frame design provides much more torsional rigidity, than the ladder-style frame of the two-seater Teryx and most other Side by Side vehicles.

Choose 2WD, 4WD or even more traction with a simpler front differential lock, than all other Kawasaki’s, which are all equipped with manually controlled versions. Just a simple “turn like a key” style electric switch does away with the need to control the locking action with a lever. Short-turning radius, perfectly sealed rear wet brake, and front hydraulic disc brakes that stop you on a dime, sport-inspired suspension, good power, plus room for four. Suddenly the Teryx name takes on a whole new meaning! One that can be truly desirable for people looking to upgrade their old golf kart shaped multi-passenger off-road vehicle or newcomers to the activity who find ATVs too challenging to operate.

If you already own an RZR4 from Polaris, then this one might not be so appealing if you like the racy feel and performance of your current ride. If you are among those who wished for something that would fall in-between the Ranger Crew or John Deere’s new XUV 550 S4 and that extra sporty RZR4, this reliable Kawasaki blends the best of both worlds in a very effective way. You can really have fun with your gang and the next day, enjoy this helpful vehicle to push, haul, and transport a surprisingly huge amount of stuff. One thing I’ve been telling some friends thinking of switching from ATVs to a Side by Side vehicle is to consider a 4-seater, if they want to really go for adventure trips and bring a tent and all necessities for a cool and romantic camping trip.

What I am getting at is that I wouldn’t want to be in your shoes if you are a trail ride loving couple, looking to buy their first Side by Side. The new Wildcat is cool, Polaris has many new choices also, Can-Am Commander vehicles are selling like hotcakes with good reason, and the list of choices will surely keep growing. Can-Am will almost certainly also have a 4-seater to offer soon. If it can be of any help, it is sometimes more important to analyse your true needs, before you travel to a showroom. Make an informed decision and learn about a few different models that you think might fit your bill, and try to experience as many as possible, before you sign anything! Call your dealer and ask if they have a demo model to try. At the very least if you can’t ride it, sit in it anyway and do everything like you would, if you were heading out for a ride. Buckle your seat belt, see how it feels, how the seat feels, where your feet end up, is everything within reach and confortable to operate?

Even sway your body around and get a sense of what would happen to your body, while travelling on rough terrain. Is your shoulder hitting something? For me, the 2012 Kawasaki Teryx4 750 4×4, felt superb in every way and since we are concentrating our efforts on this new vehicle right now, let me outline the biggest advantages it can offer its owner. The balance that the mid-ship engine placement provides, the high-grade suspension and efforts made by engineers in positioning the chassis’ centre of gravity as low as possible. The maximized cornering stability with the front sway bar, the front-end conception with its long A-arm design and adjustment possibilities on both the front and rear shocks. Plus, last but not least, the precision control felt with the smooth operating Electric Power Steering. I think it is also important to mention that the non-EPS base model is still very easy to steer in 2WD and you will only maybe miss it if you have tried an EPS or LE model beforehand. Nicely done Green team!

As I always mention when talking about a vehicle, which is specifically designed for multi-occupant use, the safety of your loved ones should always stay your first priority. So, if you do find some eager passengers make sure they always, without any exceptions, all wear the recommended gear and that their seat belt is securely fastened. Don’t ever attack obstacles or turns with aggressiveness, just to show off the vehicles high performance abilities. Always brake, before you turn! It is a basic rule of thumb that you might remember from your driving course, which becomes all the more important off-road. This vehicle has excellent brakes and safety conscious stability built into it, so there is no reason why your trail riding experience would turn sour.

In conclusion, I have to admit being thoroughly impressed with the performances of this new family-oriented Kawasaki. There is only that front passenger’s hand-hold on the roll cage, which I don’t approve of. The stick shaped handle for the front passenger’s left hand is perfect though, and I would replace the one on the roll cage with one on the dash, to encourage whoever sits there to keep arms inside the vehicle, in case of a rollover. If you do ever get in a situation where you are passenger and the ride does fall on its right side, however unlikely if the vehicle is properly used, I would strongly suggest that you grab that interior stick handle with both hands. A wide bar across the back of the front seats offers hand holds for the rear passengers.

This might have been just a one day experience, but it was one that included very true to life trail rider challenges that attested to the vehicle’s maker’s confidence in its product, like one particularly tough climb with a tricky hook around a big tree right in the middle of it. The 2012 Kawasaki Teryx4 750 4×4 handled absolutely everything like a pro! We can’t wait to get a unit to play with it some more!

For more information on the above mentioned models, please visit the Kawasaki Website

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