INTRODUCTION

This Umarex Gauntlet 30 caliber test review is slightly unusual. Although we’re using the standard HAM review formal, we’re concentrating on two aspects of this gun in considerable detail. These are “Value For Money” and “Speed And Accuracy”.

This is because the Umarex Gauntlet 30 caliber is very similar in most respects to the Umarex Gauntlet 2 in .22 caliber. The primary differences are the 30 cal’s position in the market and it’s very different power output.

So, rather than include much repetition from HAM’s earlier Gauntlet 2 review, readers are referred to that test for much basic information.

VALUE FOR MONEY

The Umarex Gauntlet 30 is different to the smaller caliber Gauntlet 2 versions as it plays on the edge of the big bore PCP market.

It sells for $50 more than the .22 and .25 caliber models. However that’s not a big deal compared to the difference in competition landscape it faces among 30 caliber air rifles.

First, let’s take a look at a selection of PCP air rifles with comparable high-level specifications. These are:

– Regulated

– Magazine feed

– Shrouded barrel

Looking a a simple price analysis, we see that the Umarex Gauntlet 30 caliber is by far the lowest priced game in town. It’s roughly half the price of its nearest competitor. And between a third and a quarter the cost of most models in this chart.

When it comes to power, the Umarex Gauntlet 30 caliber has a claimed Muzzle Energy of 100 Ft/Lb. Broadening our market definition a little, we see that. 30 caliber power levels range from 30 Ft/Lbs for the Hatsan 135 springer (included as a benchmark) through to 275 Ft/Lbs for the AirForce Talon.

Next, aking price and dividing it by power, we can see how the guns stack up. In these terms, the Umarex Gauntlet 30 caliber places second at $4.80 per Ft/Lb of claimed power.

So, yes, the Texan offers more value at $4.20 per Ft/Lb. However here we have a single load, unregulated, un-shrouded air rifle. It has the power but can’t complete on features with the Gauntlet 30. Even the Hatsan 135 springer is more than twice as expensive in price for power terms as the Gauntlet!

So, overall, it’s really tough to not agree that the Umarex Gauntlet 30 caliber represents outstanding value in this market!

BUY FROM PYRAMYD AIR Umarex Gauntlet 2 PCP Air Rifle 0.22

BUY FROM AIRGUN DEPOT Umarex Gauntlet 2

SPEED AND ACCURACY

OK, so the price is good. How about the performance?

The news everyone wants to hear is this. There’s plenty of power and the accuracy is pretty good too. And it shoots slugs well!

The slug-shooting performance itself will attract many shooters…

Ammo TypeWeightMuzzle VelocityMuzzle EnergyJSB Exact Pellets44.75 Grains1,003 FPS100 Ft/LbsDaystate Howler Slugs49.5 Grains996 FPS110 Ft/LbsJSB KnockOut Slugs50.15 Grains986 FPS108 Ft/Lbs

The testing was restricted to three types of ammo due to the well-known ammo shortage. However, it’s clear that accuracy of the Umarex Gauntlet 30 caliber tested by HAM was very good.

(Note that the scope elevation and windage were untouched through the test to show how the Point-Of-Impact dropped with increasing range.)

At 25 Yards, the gun printed “one hole”, 10-shot groups on the target with the JSB pellets and Howler slugs. The KnockOuts performed almost as well, with just one shot opening-up the group a little.

Moving to 50 Yards, we saw these “Inch-ish” Center-to-Center groups…

I had planned to stop at 50 Yards. But I felt that there was more to come from the Howler slugs. So I shot this 5-shot group at 75 Yards.

As the photograph with this target marker shows, here we have “Extreme Benchrest”-level accuracy from an out-of-the-box gun, shooting unsorted slugs. And with a scope magnification of only 16X. Not at all bad!!!

TRIGGER AND COCKING EFFORT

Trigger and cocking effort are similar to that of the Gauntlet 2. The trigger’s OK, the cocking effort very heavy, despite the very oversized bolt handle.

COMPARISON TO MAKERS CLAIMS

The Umarex Gauntlet 30 caliber tested by HAM matched the manufacturer’s performance claims almost exactly.

That’s 99 Ft/Lbs with 44.75 Grain pellets and 25 consistent shots per fill. We saw a maximum of 110 Ft/Lbs of Muzzle Energy with 49.5 Grain Daystate Howler slugs and 24 consistent shots (with shot 25 being disputable)…

CONSISTENCY

The Umarex Gauntlet 30 caliber air rifle tested by HAM gave 24 consistent shots from one 4,500 PSI fill of High Pressure Air. As can be seen from the chart below, the Muzzle Velocity falls predictably after that point.

NOISE LEVEL

With a 100 Ft/Lb Muzzle Energy, the Umarex Gauntlet 30 caliber is not going to be quiet – even though it’s shrouded.

However a change compared to smaller calibers is that it’s now threaded for an aftermarket dedicated airgun silencer. This undoubtedly would reduce the report, although at the expense of maing tis 47.5-Inch air rifle even longer!

SIGHTS AND SCOPE

For this test review, HAM used a Hawke Sidewinder4-16×50 scope, mounted with Hawke Tactical Match rings. This combination worked well, although I should have chosen a higher power for the 75 Yard targets…

SHOOTABILITY

The considerable length and front-mounted HPA tank mean that the Umarex Gauntlet 30 caliber is best fired supported. That could be sitting at a bench, prone from a bipod or rested against a tree.

APPEARANCE AND FINISH

As for the Gauntlet 2.

BUYING AND OWNING

Don’t forget to buy plenty of ammo while it’s available!!!

The Umarex Gauntlet 30 caliber features an improved gauge face plate and superior degassing system to the other Gauntlet models previously tested.

It also includes a hammer spring tension adjuster screw for making power adjustments. This is another new feature compared to the smaller-caliber Gauntlets.

BUY FROM PYRAMYD AIR Umarex Gauntlet 2 PCP Air Rifle 0.22

BUY FROM AIRGUN DEPOT Umarex Gauntlet 2

This entire article including scoring, test targets etc is Copyright Hard Air Magazine and may NOT in part or in whole be reproduced in any electronic or printed medium without prior permission from the publisher.

Like many unknowing dog owners, I used to allow my dogs to ride in the back seat or hitch of the car without worrying about their safety. They lay down and were calm, so I never saw a need to use a dog crate for car travel.

When I got Sitka, however, there was no sitting calmly in the car while I drove.

Sitka is anxious in the car, and after the first ride involved him lunging at trucks and motorcycles, pacing back and forth, and whining the entire time, I knew I needed a solution to keep us safe and sane.

Initially, I secured him using a harness system from Kurgo that is crash-tested and kept him from pacing, but he’d spin and tangle himself in the straps resulting in needing to pull over to untangle his legs periodically.

From there, I decided to look into a kennel and began intense research to find the best dog crates for car travel. I asked friends, polled my Instagram audience, read reviews, and emailed brands to create a list of potential candidates.

In this post, I feature the dog crates that I considered purchasing, which means they met the criteria I will explain below. I explain why I chose the one that I did and provide suggestions for why other brands might work best for your car situation and dog.

Don’t feel like reading all the research and just want to know my top pick?This is the crate I went with for myself.It’s one of the more expensive dog crates on the market, but it is worth every penny because I fully believe that in the event of an accident, Sitka will survive.

Why Should a Dog be in a Crate in the Car?

Even if your dog was like my first dogs and settled calmly in the car, it’s a good idea to secure them in a dog kennel in the event of a car accident.

Here are the three main reasons:

Safety

Think about it, we buckle up every time we get into the car, but many dog owners don’t often consider securing their dog. In a crash, unsecured dogs will become projectiles and can result in serious injuries and death.

Security

If you are injured in a car accident, your dog will be in a safe and secure spot where they cannot run away or bite anyone.

Restraint

When I drove with Sitka the first time, I was certain we would get into an accident. His movement and whining was so distracting that I couldn’t concentrate on driving.

In 2019, Volvo conducted a safety study that determined that unrestrained dogs led to significantly more unsafe driving behaviors, distracted driving, and increased stress for both the human and the dog.

In the Event of a Car Accident

In the unfortunate case that you are in a car accident, there are a few preparation steps to take to ensure the utmost safety for your pet.

This is especially important if you are injured and unable to tend to your dog after a crash.

Secure a laminated form on top of or inside of the kennel with the following information:

• Your first and last name
• Address
• Phone number
• Emergency contact for your dog who is authorized to make choices on your behalf
• Veterinarian
• Any allergies your dog may have
• Other pertinent information about your dog

Keep a spare leash and a muzzle in the car and include instructions about how to remove your dog from the kennel and where to take them until you are able to pick them up (i.e. with a friend or e nearest veterinarian).

When working with emergency personnel, if you are able to, communicate to them that you will be the one to remove your dog from the kennel.

I once saw a video posted on Instagram where a dog jumped out and started to run away when the firefighters removed him from his crate. Thankfully, he had his e-collar on and was able to be recalled back.

In stressful situations, dogs can bite or run away. Do as much as possible to prevent that from happening by communicating as best you can with emergency crews and in writing.

What to Look for In a Dog Crate for Car Travel

When deciding on the right dog crate for your needs, there are several factors to take into consideration that will ensure the best fit for your dog and car, and still meet safety requirements.

Size and Fit

When you measure your dog for the crate, you want a snug fit. Too much excess space means that they can become injured due to increased impact from a crash.

You also don’t want it too snug because then your dog won’t be able to move around to get comfortable.

Since most of the kennels in this article are not available to purchase in stores, testing fit is not an option. The best plan is to provide your dog and car’s measurements and dog’s weight to the manufacturer and work with them to determine best fit.

Material

To best protect your dog in the car, look for a dog crate that is made from a single piece of molded polyethylene. A single piece means that there are no weak points in the kennel that can fail in an impact.

Materials to avoid include:

• Wire
• Fabric
• Folding crates
• Traditional plastic “clamshell” dog crates.

Crash-testing

The Center for Pet Safety (CPS) conducted a series of crash tests for dog crates in partnership with Subaru of America in 2015. CPS evaluated crates that cost between $150 and $1000 and put them to a series of tests, including:

• The use of dummy dogs weighing 75 lbs
• Conducted two different crash test with rear seat folded in one and up in the second
• Simulated crashes at speeds of 30 mph

You can see the test results from the report here.

There are many dog crates out there that claim to be crash-tested, but because there is not the same requirement for testing the safety of dog crates as there is for cars or child seats, purchasers need to do their homework.

Since the most recent CPS test was performed in 2015, there are likely suitable kennels that didn’t make the list or new additions to the market that weren’t tested.

Email the manufacturer to ask about their crash testing protocols and read reviews from people whose dogs were in car crashes to validate the claims.

Strap Loops

Some dog crates come with strap loops that allow you to secure the kennel into your car. This is especially important for those whose dogs will ride in open bed trucks.

Different manufacturers may recommend different types of straps to tie down the kennel. Check in with them before purchasing if you plan to secure the kennel in your car.

Ventilation

It can get hot and stuffy inside of a plastic box, so when you’re looking for a crate for your dog for the car, make sure that it has good ventilation.

This means there are plenty of air holes on the sides that provide cross breezes.

Sizing Your Dog Crate for the Car

Depending on the kind of car you have and your dog’s size, different crates will fit differently. Further, placement depends on where your car’s crumple zones are located.

For example, the front and rear of many cars feature a crumple zone, designed to protect passengers, but that’s not where you want the kennel to sit.

You’ll want to check with your car’s manufacturer to determine where the crumple zones in your specific car are located. Next, measure to ensure the kennel will fit in the designated safe location.

The Best Dog Crates for Car Travel

I conducted deep research on several dog crates for car travel before making a decision. I visited several different websites and combed through reviews and talked to my community on Instagram to get their take on different kennels.

Some key features to look for include:

• carrying handles
• air vents
• warranties
• stackability for multiple dogs
• tie down options
• weight

A quality dog kennel that will protect your dog in the event of an accent is not cheap and you get what you pay for in most cases.

The typical wire cages or clamshell airline kennels are not suitable for safety in the event of a car crash. They will not protect your dog.

After all of my research, these are the brands that I considered, including the one I ultimately chose.

Top Pick for Dog Crate for Car Travel – Gunner Kennels

Gunner is an industry leader when it comes to dog crates the car. They are the only crate that passed in the 2015 CPS study and have a 5-Star Crash Test Rated designation from the organization.

Practically indestructible, Gunner tested the kennels by tossing the crate off a 200-foot cliff, dropping a 630-lb sled on it, shot it with a shotgun, and applying 4,000 lbs of pressure to it. All tests resulted in very little damage.

This is the kennel I use for Sitka currently. You can see my Gunner Dog Crate review here.

If you can’t afford a Gunner – Dakota 283

When I was fist looking into purchasing a dog crate for the car, I initially went with the Dakota G3 Medium. Although it’s not crash test rated, by CPS, the company has don extensive testing on the kennel.

Here’s what they said when I reached out to ask:

“We have done internal testing of our kennels through a variety of impact tests including 25 ft drop testing for impact and durability. Our testing drives us to test to failure on most tests so that we know limitations and strengths.

Additionally, and most important (sic) is that our kennels have been involved in several rollover accidents with the dog surviving uninjured. This is the ultimate test and testimonial to our design and performance.”

It’s important to consider that Dakota Kennels came out after CPS conducted the safety studies.

I chose the the Dakota G3 medium because it seemed like a good mix of the Ruffland and the Gunner Kennel, with a mid-range price tag. The military strength crate is made from a single piece of rotomolded Polyethylene that resists extreme impact.

I did like this kennel and felt very confident that it would protect my dog in the event of an accident. It was roomier than the Gunner, which isn’t ideal for car travel. It’s also taller, so blocked my rear vision more than the Gunner.

Dakota 283 generously provided a discount code for Long Haul Trekkers followers. Get 10% off your order with code SITKA10 at checkout.

Best Budget Pick – RuffLand

RuffLand Kennels (formerly known as Ruff Tuff Kennels) are the one of the most popular kennels for car travel. They’re very affordable and made from a durable one-piece roto-molded construction that can withstand heavy impact.

They were tested in the CPS crash test and performed well when placed in the rear cargo area against the rear seatback, however in the test without the seatback for reinforcement, the door completely separated from the crate and the dummy dog was not retained.

You can read more about the testing here.

RuffLand kennels are tapered to ensure full breathability, even with gear stacked right up against the crate. The brand also makes tie downs specifically for their kennels to ensure further security in the car.

Best Customizable Dog Crate for Car Travel – MIM Variocage

Regarded among the safest crash-tested dog kennels for car travel, Sweden-based MIM Variocages are the only dog cage in the world certified crash-tested for front, rear, and rollover impacts.

The brand will provide a free replacement in the event of an accident.

Variocages can be tailored to various vehicles and come in 4 models with over 14 adjustable sizes. The cages are designed with a crumple zone, similar to that of cars and feature a locking mechanism.

Do you use a dog crate for car travel?

Have you been in a car accident with your dog and have any tips to share?

It’s not uncommon to find gold in the mountain streams and rivers of the Appalachian mountains, but many anglers venture into these hills in search of a different kind of gold.

The golden rainbow trout is one of the most unique fish in North America and has captured the attention of anglers for more than half a century.

These fish are also known as “bananas” or “lightning trout”, and they are known for their distinctive bright yellow coloration. This golden coloring comes from breeding a West Virginia rainbow trout with a classically colored rainbow trout to create this striking hybrid.

Palomino Trout or Golden Rainbow Trout

Their origins can be traced back to the Mountain State of West Virginia, and they are vastly different in appearance from any other fish you’ll find in the state. The emergence of the golden rainbow trout began in 1955 when workers at a fish hatchery noticed a unique fish that stood out from the rest.

The hatchery-raised rainbow trout, but this one bright fish appeared quite different. Instead of having the same pigmentation as a regular rainbow trout, the trout’s body color was bright yellow. This was due to an extremely rare genetic mutation that normally pigmented rainbow trout do not possess.

Palomino Trout vs Rainbow Trout

This one fish was taken and studied by scientists who worked to produce a new species of golden trout through selective breeding with typical rainbow trout. By selectively breeding this single rainbow trout, the golden rainbow trout originated and has since become one of the most sought-after trout species in fly fishing.

Through these cross breed species of such bright fish, biologists have gone on to produce vast numbers of self-sustaining populations in small creeks throughout North America. The golden rainbow trout or palomino trout has now become one of the most popular trophy fish in the country.

It’s one of the most famous trout species in sport fishing or fly fishing and is sought by nearly every avid angler with a fly rod. From one single fish in West Virginia, an entirely new cross breed has emerged and is bred and sold from fish hatcheries all throughout the United States.

The golden rainbow trout is a beautiful fish that’s known by a number of different names, such as the palomino trout, palomino rainbow trout, golden rainbow, banana trout, golden trout, golden rainbows, and lightning trout. They are also sometimes even called swimming bananas.

Palomino Trout Facts

This article covers all the facts and information you need when it comes to fishing for golden rainbow or palomino trout.

Where to Find Palomino Trout

Palomino trouts have been stocked from various fish hatcheries throughout West Virginia and other states in the eastern part of the country. They are now commonly found in West Virginia and have self-sustaining populations of palomino trout all throughout the Great Lakes region and even the Pacific Northwest.

Golden rainbow trout can usually be caught in most areas where you might expect to find other trout, especially brown trout, brook trout, lake trout, and even salmon species like cutthroat trout. Palomino trout are capable of living their entire life in the wild and can reproduce, unlike other hybrid species like tiger trout.

Palomino Trout Characteristics

Palomino trout (Oncorhynchus mykiss aguabonita) are very similar in their physical appearance to other trout species. Despite being such bright fish, their physical traits – skin color aside – look almost indistinguishable from that of brook trout and regular rainbow trout, as well as brown trout.

Golden rainbow trout, much like rainbow trout and brown trout, will develop a large hooked jaw as they mature. Like other trout, palomino trout have a similar adipose fin, which is found between the dorsal fin and the caudal fin, or tail.

Golden trout are known for having white-colored edges around their dorsal fin, lateral fin, and anal fins. Like rainbow trout, palomino trout also have dark green coloring along the top of their backs. Palomino trout are known to have intersecting horizontally-aligned ovals that are known as parr marks. These fish also sport dark spots along their backs and sides as well.

The palomino trout is known to have red horizontal marks along their lateral line, which is very similar to rainbow trout, which they are closely related to, and also have a purple or reddish lateral line. The belly of golden trout can be a pink or orange color, which becomes more vibrant in spawning males.

Palomino trout are known to grow much larger and faster than regular rainbow trout due to hybrid vigor, which is also known as heterosis. Hybrid vigor is an enhanced function of the palomino trouts’ biological systems as a result of hybrid breeding.

The world record palomino trout is a Pennsylvania fish that weighed 13 lbs, 8 ounces. The fish was caught in Mahoning Creek, Pennsylvania. The population of golden trout in Mahoning Creek is higher in concentration than in any other stream in the world.

How to Catch Palomino Trout

The best method of catching palomino trout is virtually the same techniques you might employ for targeting rainbow trout or brook trout, and even lake trout. They are known to feed voraciously on salmon eggs and, like other species of trout, will strike at many different types of flies and spinner lures.

Palomino trout are known to be much harder to catch than rainbow trout, brook trout or brown trout, but this is mainly thought to be due to the fact that they get more pressure. Like tiger trout, golden rainbow trout are easily spotted in any stream, which means anglers will be able to see them (particularly if using polarized fishing sunglasses) and cast to them effectively.

Catching Palomino Trout on the Fly

The techniques and presentations you might use to catch palomino trout are virtually the same as what you might use for rainbow trout or other species. Some anglers in states like West Virginia have learned that these fish are so highly targeted by other anglers that they have to resort to using flies or nymphs that are very different than what they might normally cast at native brook trout or rainbows.

You’ll want to use dry flies for palomino trout much like you would any other species. It’s also a good idea to fish with streamers that are different than what other anglers are throwing, as the palomino trout in any stream might take an interest in different colors that they are not so used to seeing.

This is a great strategy for states such as West Virginia, where palomino trout are very highly-pressured. The only way to guarantee that you’ll have a greater chance of catching palomino trout when fishing in a popular area is to get to the best locations as early as possible, right before the fish are stocked.

Catching Palomino Trout on Lure

Many anglers that fish for lake trout often use various lures to catch them. Although there are not any known palomino trout in the Great Lakes, you can catch them in some lakes throughout this area. It’s best to use lures like worms or insects to catch palomino trout in lakes as well as streams.

Do you associate Benelli with semi-auto guns?

Most of us do…from the famed inertia system to the gas-eating Marine Corps-approved M4, and even the weird combination pump and semi-auto M3, the company is well known for its semi-auto models.

But Benelli’s SuperNova breaks that mold bringing a pump-action, 12-gauge shotgun that truly stands out in the very crowded pump-action market.

Unlike most Benelli’s, the SuperNova doesn’t break the bank either. It’s often priced competitively with Remington and Mossberg shotguns.

So, you know we had to get our hands on this gun and give it a try. Today, we’re reviewing the tactical variant of the gun with the field stock and ghost ring sights.

Benelli SuperNova Tactical Review at a Glance

Pros

• Compact
• Ghost ring sights but also optics-ready
• Ergonomic design

Cons

• Not a lot of customization options
• Length of pull is a little long

The Bottom Line

The Benelli SuperNova is an effective, comfortable-to-shoot option for those looking for a shotgun for both home defense and hunting. And the price isn’t too bad either!

Specs & Features

Benelli doesn’t waste space and keeps the barrel at a trim 18.5 inches.

That’s the stock standard for a tactical 12-gauge, and while shorter is nicer, the NFA requires a stamp for anything less than 18 inches.

The 18.5-inch length gives some leeway for the inconsistent testing methods used by the ATF.

The overall length of the weapon is 39.75 inches, and it weighs 7.6 pounds. The length of pull is a long 14.75 inches. Even henchman-sized guys like me find that to be a long length of pull.

We’ll talk more about that later…

The Benelli SuperNova comes with a 4-round magazine tube. Oddly enough, the magazine tube comes plugged to only allow two rounds to be loaded.

That’s common in sporting guns, and the purpose is to keep the weapon legal when hunting certain species of birds.

Removing the plug is easy enough. Four plus one is the absolute minimum for a tactical shotgun. I, like most, would prefer a little extra capacity in my defensive or tactical shotgun.

Luckily, adding a magazine extension is easy, and I did just that to get three extra rounds in the gun.

Beads make great sights, but ghost rings are better, and Benelli believes in ghost rings. It’s got a set of solid iron sights with a rear ghost ring and a big front sight. They are very well made sights, and very adjustable.

If you prefer optics, you’re in good company. The top of the receiver is drilled and tapped for an optic’s rail or mount.

The SuperNova works with Benelli M4-style optics mounts, just pop out the plastic plugs and pop on the scope mount with the screws.

Who Is It For?

While Benelli markets the standard SuperNova towards hunters, the SuperNova Tactical is geared more towards home defense. With that said, it can still make a great hunting gun.

Fit & Feel

Ergonomically the SuperNova provides a sound ergonomic experience. The trigger guard is massive, and your finger will find its way in. Its safety is reversible for lefties and is a push-button style that’s rather large and easy to engage.

The pump release is forward slightly of the trigger, and it’s intuitive. It’s big enough, and I doubt it’s an issue for lefties.

Using the magazine cut-off isn’t hard but takes a second to get used to.

You have to pull the pump slightly rearward, then hit the button and finish racking the pump rearward. Once the button’s pressed, rounds won’t feed from the tube, and you can do a hasty and intuitive slug select drill.

Loading rounds directly into the port of the weapon doesn’t pose a challenge either. That ejection port is massive and made for a 3.5-inch long shell. So shoving a 2.75-inch shell in the thing doesn’t create an issue.

Port reloads are how you get a gun in action when it runs completely dry. Being able to get a quick reload in the pipe can be critical. Keeping the gun fed is also easy. It’s got a big mouth in the form of a massive loading port.

It’s made for 3.5-inch rounds, and all that extra size gives you plenty of room to shove in standard 2.75-inch shells. It’s easily the fastest reload I’ve ever achieved with a pump gun.

My main problem with the gun’s ergonomics is the super long length of pull. It makes the gun feel unnecessarily long. The LOP makes it hard to assume a squared-off shooting position and forces a more sporting-style bladed stance to be used.

How Does It Shoot?

Speed means nothing without control. Banging hammers with the SuperNova and controlling the gun is quite easy. See those weird chevrons in the stock?

That’s part of the Comfortech stock, and those chevrons flex and cushion to reduce recoil and enhance control. With full-powered buckshot, the SuperNova stays comfy and won’t beat you up.

That long pump I mentioned earlier also features a good degree of texturing and a shape that makes it easy to get a grip on it.

When you run a pump gun fast, your hand might slip rearwards and off the pump or into a compromised grip. That’s not an issue with the giant Supernova pump.

I use a push/pull technique to mitigate recoil. The texturing, shape, and length grant me a rock-solid grip to push forward on the pump and help maintain control.

That long pump design also grants me more gun to grip. I injured my shoulders pretty bad when I was younger, and sometimes running a standard pump shotgun hurts.

The longer pump allows me to grip closer to the receiver and resists stretching my arms out.

It’s less weight on my shoulders and a much more comfortable experience.

What Sets It Apart?

The earlier Nova was a great gun, but not perfect. Benelli’s SuperNova took the criticisms of the Nova and perfected it.

The Nova featured a one-piece construction receiver and stock, so switching stocks wasn’t an option.

With the SuperNova, you can swap stocks. Additionally, the trigger guard is fairly large and accommodates gloved hands better.

The stock included with the SuperNova is Benelli’s famed Comfortech design which claims to reduce recoil.

The SuperNova comes with a shim kit that allows you to adjust drop and cast on the gun. It’s an interesting idea and handy for those who like things to fit just right.

How it stands apart from the Nova is one thing, but how does it stand apart from all the other guns on the market?

The most obvious difference is the polymer receiver. As far as I know, it’s the only pump gun with a polymer receiver.

You might ask if this is a concern, will the polymer receiver crack under pressure?

Well, the Nova and SuperNova have been kicking around for over a decade, and that hasn’t been an issue. Obviously, some metal sits into the receiver and forms a skeleton frame.

Polymer’s cool, but that’s not the only awesome feature. The super-long pump is interesting and allows for a whole lot of grip on the gun. Most guns have a space between the pump and the receiver, and the SuperNova does not.

In fact, the pump goes so far back that it overlaps the receiver by about a quarter inch. The long pump means shooters with short and long arms can easily use the gun. We aren’t done with the pump yet, either.

In the center of it sits a magazine cutoff device. It’s a button that, when pressed, prevents a shell from feeding into action. This is handy when you need to switch loads on the fly.

The SuperNova also chambers 3.5-inch shells, which is rare for a shotgun.

While 3.5-inch shells aren’t commonly used for defensive shooting, it’s always nice to have more versatility. The SuperNova could easily be a hunting shotgun, even if it’s a “tactical” model.

By The Numbers

Accuracy: 5/5

It’s a shotgun that does shotgun things. The big sights make it easy to aim and easy to adjust for using slugs of high-end buckshot. I give the gun major credit for that.

Reliability:5/5

Pump-action shotguns are inherently reliable. However, the Supernova takes it a step further with a rotating bolt that flings those shells out of the gun with reckless abandon.

Customization: 2/5

Mesa makes a stock and a side-saddle, and that’s about it. Not a lot you can do besides add an optic and extend the magazine tube. If you want customization, a Mossberg or Remington will take you a lot further.

Value: 4/5

It’s not as cheap as a basic Mossberg or Remington Express. They tend to cost right around 870 Magpul or Mossberg 590 prices. Although, you get a much more modern shotgun. It’s by far the cheapest Benelli.

Ergonomics: 4/5

The ergonomics mostly rule. I love the pump design, I love the huge ejection and loading port, and I love the reversible safety and the shim kit to change drop and cast. I don’t love the length of pull, though.

Overall: 4/5

The Benelli SuperNova is one helluva shotgun. It’s a sweet pump-action design that brings innovation into a market that hasn’t moved far beyond the 1960s.

Upgrades for the Benelli SuperNova Tactical

Unfortunately, there are not really a lot of upgrade options for the Benelli SuperNova. Mesa makes a great stock that shrinks the LOP down to 12.5 inches and adds a pistol grip.

Mesa also makes a nice side saddle that provides Picatinny rail and space for storing up to 6 shells.

Other than those two, however, there’s not much out there.

Final Verdict

On paper, the Benelli looks solid, and it’s not just good looks. At the range, it performs very well.

I’ve handled lots of pump-action shotguns, but I don’t think I’ve ever had an action as smooth or as light as the SuperNova’s. This includes a direct comparison to my 1971 Remington Wingmaster.

I’m surprised at how rarely I see the SuperNova mentioned in modern shotgun discussion. It’s a well-built, modern, and easy shooting gun. Benelli put the same innovation in it that they do all their guns.

It’s well on its way to becoming my favorite shotgun and might become my home defense gun sooner rather than later.

Have you shot the Benelli SuperNova? What did you think? Share your thoughts in the comments below. Want more tactical-style shotties? Check out our Best Home-Defense Tactical Shotguns.

I see the debate of how far out to put the target almost every time I go to a range during public hours.

Put it too close and it doesn’t look very “cool.” Put it too far and it would be embarrassing to miss.

Should I put it at 21 feet because of the “21-foot rule?” Should I put it at 11 feet since half of law enforcement fatalities happen within 11 feet?

Should I put it at nine feet since an “average” self-defense encounter happens within three yards, lasts three seconds, and three rounds are fired?

The answer is a little simpler and a little more flexible than you may think.

There are a couple of distances that are important.

The first distance is six to 10 feet.

Six feet is about as close as you can get to a hanging paper target without the muzzle blast from normal self-defense rounds moving the paper too much. Six to 10 feet is close enough that any gun/ammo combination can shoot 1” or better groups.

Drilling holes flat footed at the six- to 10-foot range is an indication that you can align the muzzle properly and press the trigger without disturbing muzzle alignment.

Any flyers or problems that show up here will be magnified with distance, stress, speed, and movement.

Grip, stance, breathing, and follow-through all help, but muzzle alignment and trigger press are the only two things that are vital.

This seems like it should be simple, but what I’ve found over time is that only about 10% of shooters who carry regularly…including military, law enforcement, competition, and concealed carry permit holders…can actually shoot a five-round 1” group at 6-10 feet with perfect lighting and no time constraints.

If you’re in the 90% who throw an occasional shot at six to 10 feet, it means is that you’ve got some of what I call “low-hanging opportunities for improvement” that will be magnified with speed, distance, movement and stress. Work that you do here gets incredibly high leverage results and will impact all shooting that you do, regardless of the gun, distance, or speed.

Once you’re drilling holes at six to 10 feet…then what?

It depends on what phase of learning you’re in; whether you’re building a basic skill or trying to make it resilient.

If you’re trying to build skill, you want to aim for a distance where you’ve got a 75 to 90% success rate, regardless of the size of the target, speed of shooting, stress level, or speed of movement.

That may be slow fire at five, 25, 50, or even 100 yards, rapid fire, shooting while moving, or whatever combination of speed, accuracy, stress, and movement that puts you in that 75 to 90% success range.

That means that you’re hitting your intended target seven to nine times out of 10 and the misses tell you where the edge of your performance envelope is.

At first, you want to focus on perfection and a 99 to 100% success rate, but once you’re dialed in, you want to start expanding your performance envelope.

For IDPA, “success” might be -0 hits. For USPSA, it might be A-zone.

But, depending on what you’re doing, you might need/want to relax your definition of success. As an example, if you’re shooting at 50 yards, shooting fast, or training for self-defense while moving laterally off-the-x, you might call success anything in the -1 or B zone (reduced silhouette), or it might be any hit on target.

But the goal should always be to make precise hits faster, fast strings of fire more accurate, and do it under more and more challenging conditions.

The way you want to structure your practice is to start with drills where you’re shooting at a 99 to 100% success rate, push conditions until you’re at 75 to 90%, and then end with 99 to 100% again.

I like to think of it as a sandwich.

Start with a sure thing, push it, and then end with a sure thing.

As we cover in Praxis, this will optimize learning speed and give you the most bang-for-the-buck for your training time and training dollars.

If you’ve got the skill built and you’re working on making it resilient to stress…by whatever means of stress inoculation you happen to be using…then you might want to push things to the point where you’re only succeeding 25% of the time…but you still want to dial stuff back to where you know your performance envelope where you can succeed 75 to 90% of the time and end with a win.

How’s this play out at the range?

Start with a few rounds at six to 10 feet with sterile conditions, push time, distance, speed, movement and stress until you’re in the 75 to 90% success range, and then end with a few reps at six to 10 feet again.

As you see, no matter how fast and cool or how tactical you want to be, it all comes back to a solid foundation of the fundamentals…muzzle alignment and trigger press.

Get those down as a solid foundation and the sky is the limit.

Skip over them in an attempt to get to the “cool” stuff quicker and it’s like driving a sports car with the parking brake on and a clogged air filter…it’s simply impossible to shoot up to your potential. And that’s why shooters at all levels…from new shooters to guys retiring from tier I and special mission units go through our training and report dramatic improvements in performance.

The best fixed blade broadheads are ones that have razor-sharp blades, fly like field points from your bow, and inflict maximum damage. We all want that short blood trail to the buck of our dreams.

In this article, we look at what we feel are the 9 best fixed-blade broadheads on the market in 2024. These are broadheads we have tried and tested and wouldn’t hesitate to screw onto the ends of our own arrows this fall.

I’ll give my usual caveat here: while we have our favorite broadheads for various game and situations, there is truly no one ‘best’ option. Also keep in mind that broadheads for crossbows often have different requirements, so we have a whole other article for those.

Which broadhead works best for you will depend on a variety of factors, including your bow setup, arrow selection, ability to tune your bow, and a little bit of personal preference.

Our Top Picks

Everything We Recommend

What are Fixed Blade Broadheads?

As the name implies, fixed blade broadheads have no moving parts. The blades are fixed in position. In some cases, fixed blade broadheads are machined from one piece of steel, so the blades and the ferrule are formed together. That is the case with the G5 Montec broadheads featured above.

Most fixed blade broadheads, however, have replaceable blades that attache to the ferrule in various ways. This is a great feature, because if a blade or blades become dull or damaged, you can simply replace the blade without having to try to sharpen it or replace the entire broadhead.

Pros and Cons of Fixed Blade Broadheads

Features to Consider

Broadhead Weight

Most fixed blade broadheads are going to come in either 85, 100, 125 or 150 grains, with 100 grains being the most common. Any of these will work effectively. It’s really a matter of your overall arrow or bolt setup as to which weight you choose. If you’re just going with a standard mid-weight arrow setup, then I’d recommend sticking with a 100 grain broadhead because they are readily available and will get the job done. However, if you’re like me and prefer a heavier arrow setup with a little higher FOC, then a 125 or even a 150 grain may be your best bet.

The past two seasons I’ve shot 150 grain broadheads on my compound bow setup, and I’ve been extremely happy with the results. This year I may go with the 125 grain Slick Trick Magnum broadheads, which should still work fine. I can always add another 25 grain weight to my insert if I wanted to keep the overall weight the same, but I really don’t think that will be necessary.

Blade Thickness

Blade thickness is an important factor when choosing the best fixed blade broadhead for your setup. It’s going to determine how well your broadheads hold up when they make contact with an animal — especially if they come in contact with any bone. Blade thickness is especially important if you’re shooting a one-piece broadhead with blades that will require sharpening.

If you’re shooting a broadhead with replaceable blades, blade thickness isn’t quite as critical, but you still don’t want the broadhead coming apart as it passes through the chest cavity of a mature buck.

Number of Blades

In your quest to find the best fixed blade broadhead, you may wonder if you should you shoot a two, three, or four-blade broadhead? First off, let me say that any of those three options will get the job done. Like most things in life, there’s tradeoffs to each option. A two-blade broadhead is going to have less resistance, so it will be more likely to pass thru an animal. The tradeoff to that reduced resistance and increased penetration is less overall tissue damage and a smaller blood trail.

Three and four-blade broadheads, on the other hand, should produce a larger wound channel and better blood trail. And while they will have more resistance than a two-blade, as long as you’re shooting a heavy enough arrow setup, penetration shouldn’t be an issue.

Cutting Diameter

Cutting diameter is another important factor when choosing a fixed blade broadhead. Similar to the discussion above about the number of blades a broadhead should have, cutting diameter will impact penetration and the subsequent blood trail. A smaller cutting diameter will have less resistance and will be more likely to pass through, but it will also create a smaller wound channel. That smaller hole will me less overall tissue damage and a smaller blood trail.

That leaves you having to strike a balance between getting a solid pass-thru shot and still inflicting as much damage as possible for a good, short blood trail. Other factors in that decision will be your bow setup and overall arrow setup. If you shoot a lower poundage, short draw length, or a light arrow setup, then you will want to err on the side of smaller cutting diameter to ensure a pass-thru shot.

My preference is a 1 1/4 to 1 1/2-inch cutting diameter from a fixed blade broadhead.

Replaceable Blades vs One-Piece Design

This is another personal preference decision you’ll need to make when choosing the best fixed blade broadhead for your setup. What it really boils down to is, are you comfortable sharpening your broadhead blades? If not, then you need a broadhead with replaceable blades. That way, after you’ve dulled a broadhead from practice shooting or in a hunting situation, you can simply toss the dull blades and install new, razor-sharp ones.

If you are comfortable sharpening your blades, then a one-piece design may be the way to go. A one-piece broadhead is typically going to be tougher and more durable than one with replaceable blades. There are certainly exceptions to that statement but as a rule, it’s true.

Solid vs Vented Blade Design

This is one I see debated at times, but in my mind is a non-issue. The biggest concern I’ve seen discussed with vented broadhead blades is the whistling noise they can make in flight. I’ve seen bowhunters concerned that the noise can alert deer and result in them “jumping the string.” I’ve shot plenty of vented blade broadheads and have never witnessed any issues that I felt were the result of broadhead noise.

The one valid argument for using a solid blade design over a vented blade is that the solid blade is going to be a little stronger and less likely to bend or break. The downside to a solid blade design is that it could result in increased planing in flight, which could result in erratic flight from bows that aren’t perfectly tuned.

Final Thoughts

Choosing the best fixed blade broadhead is not easy. There are tons of options on the market today, and all of them will kill a deer with proper shot placement. That’s not to say, however, that some options aren’t much better than others. To narrow down your choice, use the factors outlined above, and you should find one or more great options from our list above.

Ultimately, you won’t go wrong with any of the broadheads listed above, but hopefully this article will help you find the best fixed blade broadhead for your specific needs.

If you’ve been shooting semi-automatic pistols for more than a minute, you’ve inevitably locked the slide to an open chamber position. You have shot to a condition where you have expended all remaining rounds in your magazine and have observed your slide locked to the rearward position. Whether you manually moved the slide into the locked position for an intended purpose, or it was done for you by the cycling of the semi-auto pistol slide, what is the real story behind expediently disengaging a pistol slide stop?

Before jumping right into the technical details, it’s a good idea to first address nomenclature. A slide stop, also referred to as a ‘slide lock’ and in certain cases (some would claim erroneously) a ‘slide release,’ is a functional spring-loaded lever found on most semi-automatic pistols that engages by moving it into a fitted notch located in the slide on the same side as the slide lock.

It is designed to firmly position (lock) a reciprocating pistol slide to the rear of the frame which can be accomplished manually by the shooter physically moving it into place by hand, or by the cycling of the semi-auto pistol slide after the last round of a magazine is fired – colloquially referred to as “shooting to slide lock.”

Technically speaking, upon expending the last and final round of any remaining ammunition in your magazine, the follower (moving magazine part located between your cartridges and magazine spring), depressing the slide stop spring (attached to the frame), presses up against the slide stop and causes it to engage in the slide stop notch cut into the slide which in turn causes the slide to be pinned in the rearward position of the pistol frame presenting an empty chamber.

When the shooter happens to notice slide lock either visually or by feel, it can be considered a positive indicator that there is no more ammo remaining in your handgun prompting the shooter to reload and get the gun back up and running.

Manually speaking the slide stop can be used to either clear a complex operational malfunction, for firearm maintenance or to lock the chamber in the open position allowing for visual and/ /or digital inspection to ensure that the pistol is in fact empty.

In the context of shooting to slide lock, it’s important to get your gun back into action as quickly as possible. The logical conclusion to observing that you have shot to slide lock is to seat another magazine into the magazine well and disengage the slide lock as to place the gun back into full battery.

Inserting and properly seating the magazine is fairly straightforward with few variations, however, disengaging the slide stop is a completely different matter and can be accomplished using varied methods worth discussing in detail.

If you find yourself in mid-motion of firing your gun, and it is the case that you run out of bullets, indicated by shooting to slide lock, then it logically follows that you need to replace the now-empty magazine with a fresh magazine filled, preferably to maximum capacity, with cartridges thereby replenishing your ammunition supply.

The final step to recovering from shooting to slide lock is to disengage the slide lock placing the gun back into battery which can be accomplished expediently and consistently with a handful of varied techniques.

The Claw

Although not the fastest method available to place the slide back into battery, it is favored predominantly by the traditional defensive shooting community. Reason being that applying all four fingers you can work the slide even if you get one of them and/ or your thumb injured in a gunfight. It’s consistent with keeping 6 and 12 alignment in the workbox area therefore not needing to turn the pistol along its bore line axis at any time, conducive to clearing most common operational malfunctions and provides the shooter with yet another option to do a press check to ensure that there is in fact a round in battery if that is part of their standard operational procedure.

The Slingshot

The next most common is the sling shot method which is about the same response time as the claw. Although not really faster or slower it does require that the pistol be turned on its bore line axis that the support hand palm faces the strong hand to initiate the “pinch” or slingshot-like grasp (hence its namesake) utilizing the forefinger and the thumb.

The Slide Lock

Utilizing the slide lock itself to place the firearm back in battery offers the quickest response time. However, as no slick move comes without a price tag, one of the downsides is that if you are using your strongside thumb, based on the size of your hand you may need to reposition the gun in your hand moving the muzzle out of alignment which negates any time you may have saved.

Another potential hazard is of your hands may be cold, oily, sweaty, bloody, etc., which may cause slippage off the slide lock, an inconsistency that could cost valuable time. To bypass this potential hazard several gun parts manufacturers offer third-party oversized slide stops specifically designed with greater contact surface area for a more positive thumb placement. The downside to the oversized single-side or ambi third party slide locks is that if you have a large hand or big, long thumbs, this oversized landing pad can be inadvertently depressed during normal operation and cause a failure to lock back with an empty magazine.

Last but certainly not least is to utilize your support side thumb. Certain agencies and departments that also issue semi-auto AR platform carbines to their employees, train their shooters to hit the bolt catch (locking the bolt carrier assembly to the rear) sending the bolt forward and a round in battery using their support hand thumb. Those same officers are offered the option to employ the same support-side thumb technique to their pistols, therefore maintaining uniform operational consistency between issued shooting platforms.

Given these options and others not listed in the limited space here such as fighting through an injury (employing strong-hand-only and support-hand-only reloads on a belt, holster, boot heel, knees etc.,) the bottom line in disengaging the slide lock is to find that perfect balance between speed and consistency in exchange for an acceptable price tag.

Farm-Fresh Eggs are in high demand right now with store prices skyrocketing. People are turning to their chicken-keeping neighbors for food instead of choosing the convenience of the grocery store. This is a great thing! However, many people struggle to eat fresh eggs because they have been led to believe that these eggs are not safe for consumption. So today, we will dig into the question- “Are Farm-Fresh Eggs Safe to Eat?”

Are Farm-Fresh Eggs Safe to Eat?

Short answer- yes!

Longer answer- It can depend on a few different variables that hinge on the specific chicken keeper.

Let’s talk about these variables and the differences between farm-fresh and store-bought eggs.

Farm-Fresh Eggs are Different than Store-Bought Eggs

What makes eggs straight from the farm different than the eggs that you can purchase at the grocery store?

1. Age

The eggs that you find sitting in a grocery store refrigerator are between 6 weeks and 2 months old. While eggs sold by your local farmer can last that long (even longer when stored properly), he/she usually won’t sell them at that age.

2.NutrientContent

Farm-fresh eggs have been shown to contain less cholesterol, more vitamins & nutrients, and much more Omega 3 fatty acids than typical store-bought eggs. The nutritional value of an egg is related to the diet of the bird (think solely pellet-fed vs. homemade feed vs. free-range) so this factor can vary from one farm to the next.

3. Protective Coating

Most eggs sold straight from the farm still have the bloom intact. Bloom is a protective coating that the hen covers her egg in before she lays it. Eggs sold in grocery store refrigerators have had this bloom removed so bacteria can freely enter through the pores in the shell.

Factors that Affect Egg Safety

Eggs from backyard chickens are safe to eat when the birds are healthy, the coop is clean, the eggs have an intact bloom, and they are handled properly. It is a good idea to get to know the farmer/homesteader you buy eggs from (and use good practices if you are selling eggs).

Be aware that many chicken owners do not allow on-site tours of their coops due to biosecurity issues. However, they should be willing to tell you about their practices.

Flock Living Conditions & Health

The condition of the coop, run, feed, and water are all related to egg safety. The flock should have access to:

• A dry, clean, and draft-free coop
• Clean nest boxes-1 box per 4 chickens is recommended
• Fresh and clean water (The water may get dirty throughout the day, but should be changed as needed.)

Flock health is very important as well because a sick flock could equal sick (or lower quality) eggs. Sick birds should be quarantined and treated separately from healthy chickens.

Egg Handling Practices

• Eggs should be collected daily and multiple times per day during extreme heat and cold.
• Farm-fresh eggs can be left unwashed and out on the counter at room temperature OR they can be washed and placed in the refrigerator. Unwashed eggs are usually the better option (we will talk about why in a minute).
• The oldest eggs should be used/sold first. Using an egg organizer like an egg skelter is a good way to keep the oldest eggs moving out first.
• Egg cartons CAN safely be reused
• Broken and cracked eggs should be discarded.

Intact Bloom

An egg is laid with a porous shell. This means that bacteria and other small particles can move in and out of the shell. To protect the egg’s contents, the hen produces a protective layer called bloom.

The bloom is a protective coating that a hen places on her eggs before she lays them. This coating protects the egg by sealing the eggshell pores, preventing bacteria from permeating the shell. This is why most backyard chicken keepers advocate for selling unwashed eggs.

With the protective bloom intact, eggs can be stored at room temperature for 2 weeks (sometimes up to a month). Once the egg is washed, however, the bloom is removed and the egg can no longer be safely stored at room temp. Washed eggs must be refrigerated to keep bacteria from growing in and on them.

When Should Eggs Be Washed?

If you have a clean coop with clean nesting boxes, then typically your eggs will be clean. However, that is not always the case. When it is rainy outside, the birds can bring mud in on their feet & bottoms which transfers to the egg shells.

This isn’t an issue since the bloom is still intact, but if you are selling eggs, your customers may prefer dirty eggs to be washed. Otherwise, there is no need to wash farm-fresh eggs until just before you plan to eat them.

Eggs should be washed in warm water, slightly warmer (by about 20 degrees F) than the shell. This helps to keep bacteria from moving back into the egg through the shell. Using cold water can create a vacuum that pulls bacteria into the egg.

How to Store Fresh Eggs Safely

Storing fresh eggs is just a bit different than storing eggs from the grocery store. This is because of the difference in egg age and the presence of the bloom. There are several ways to preserve and extend the shelf life of eggs such as by freezing, dehydrating, water glassing, and freeze-drying.

Shelf Life of Fresh Eggs

• Washed fresh eggs in the refrigerator: 6-8 weeks
• Unwashed fresh eggs in the refrigerator: 3-6 months
• Unwashed fresh eggs at room temperature: 2-3 weeks.

Shelf Life of Store-Bought Eggs

Store-bought eggs are washed and must be stored in the refrigerator (this is at least true in the United States). They are usually good for 3-4 weeks after the packing date. The packing date is listed as a Julian date on each egg carton. Do not confuse this with the “best by” date.

How to Recognize Bad Eggs

If you want to test your eggs before cracking them, you can use a few different methods:

1. Egg Float Test

The float test is a little bit controversial. Some people swear by it and some say that it is unreliable. Place an egg in a bowl of water. If the egg floats it is bad, if it sinks it is good. The idea is that a bad egg will float because the air cell inside has grown large enough to make it buoyant.

1. Candling

Candling is the process of shining a light through the egg to view the contents- almost like an x-ray. You can use this method to see if a chick has begun to develop (if it has been with the hens for several days) or to see if there are dark spots that may indicate a rotten egg.

1. Shake Test

You can shake an egg close to your ear to listen for a sloshing sound. The idea with this test is that as the egg ages, the air pocket grows and the contents shrink so there is more room for the yolk and white to slosh around.

1. Crack into another bowl

You can also simply crack your eggs one at a time in a separate bowl. This keeps one bad egg from ruining the entire batch that you are cooking with. Just note that if you do crack a bad egg, you may smell it for a while.

With proper flock management and egg handling, you can lay the question, “Are farm-fresh eggs safe?” to rest!

Raising Backyard Chickens

Keep reading to learn even more about the joys of raising backyard chickens on the homestead!

• Basics of Raising Chickens
• Using Cardboard Bedding in the Chicken Coop
• 6 Reasons Every Homestead Needs a Rooster
• How Do You Keep Chickens Warm?
• How to Treat Common Chicken Illnesses
• 10 Ways to Help Chickens Beat the Heat
• 10 Dual-Purpose Chicken Breeds
• Save Money Raising Chickens for Eggs

Great for Small Fish

Ugly Stik Elite

Length Tested: 5′ | Casting Weight: 1/32-1/4 oz

If you need a well-built, lightweight fishing rod that’s easy to tote to your favorite fishing hole, look no further than the Ugly Stik Elite. Don’t let its small size fool you. It’s perfectly strong and has impressive fighting power, which was proven on several occasions when we hauled in fish that were seemingly too big for this rod. This Ugly Stik was also versatile enough for different fishing styles, whether it be dropping a hook with a worm on it or just casting with a lure. It was also one of the best when it came to balancing, sitting comfortably in our hands all day long.

Although the upsides were plentiful, there were a few downsides to consider. This rod is on the small side, so the casting distance takes a hit. This is to be expected due to the rod’s size, but it’s still something to think about if most of your fishing involves casting. It also has a fairly short handle, which made two-handed use a little more difficult. Overall, this rod was a pleasure to use. So, if you need a small rod that can handle the rigors of everyday fishing, you might want to give the Ugly Stik Elite a try.

Compare Products

Compare select up to 5 products to compare

Why You Should Trust Us

Our testing grounds were June Lake, California, Jackson Hole, Wyoming, and the California coast, where our lead tester fished from both shorelines and boats to determine how each rod performed in different environments. Dozens of fish were hooked in the process of testing these rods, helping us decipher key performance differences between each product. Each fishing rod was taken out into the field to gain impressions about the features, as well as the versatility and portability. Professional anglers were also consulted, and their feedback was taken into consideration. We then put each rod up against the others to figure out where each one ranked in the test. The rankings and recommendations found in this review were informed by our in-depth comparisons and field testing.

Kit Smith, our lead reviewer, has been fishing for most of his life. He grew up fishing for salmon and halibut in the San Francisco Bay and the nearby Pacific Ocean. He also spent time fishing streams and lakes in Bear Valley, a small mountain town in the Central Sierras, where his family had a cabin. Later, he continued perfecting his angling craft in Colorado, where he attended college.

Analysis and Test Results

During testing, we measured each rod on five metrics: Balance/Feel, Features, Portability, Construction, and Versatility. We lay out each below and highlight some top performers in each area.

Value

As the old adage goes: When you buy cheap, you buy twice. Case in point here is the KastKing Blackhawk II Telescopic. Its glass tip broke after a few uses, and we had to order another one. We didn’t have any problems with the second rod, so we’ll chalk it up to getting a lemon. Overall, we ended up really enjoying this rod for its versatility, portability, and exceptional balance. The real stand-out for its great price-to-performance ratio is the PLUSINNO Two-Piece Spinning Rod, which is ultra-affordable and surprised us with its great functionality on the water. The Daiwa Megaforce Tele Spin is a bit pricier, but overall, it’s a well-constructed, highly portable rod with great casting capabilities that is a good value we think most fishermen would be happy with.

Balance & Feel

A rod’s balance is a crucial component to consider. It not only helps with casting, but it also makes fishing a whole lot more comfortable. If the balance is off, the weight of the rod will be shifted to the rod tip or handle, and you’ll notice it. Feel is also an important metric here. Feel comes down to the sensitivity of the rod. If a rod has a great feel, you can sense the smallest bites and the action of a lure in the water.

While telescoping rods don’t traditionally provide great balance and feel, the Daiwa Megaforce Telescopic was an exception. It was extremely comfortable to fish with and let us sense every little movement in the water.

As far as the most well-balanced and sensitive rod goes, the St. Croix Triumph Travel and the Ugly Stik Elite were neck and neck. While the St. Croix Triumph Travel is the most balanced and sensitive fishing rod we tested, letting you feel everything that was happening underwater, the Ugly Stik was right there with it. It helped us feel the tiniest nibbles and set the hook like a pro.

Features

This metric is sometimes overlooked when considering a fishing rod. Sure, you can get the job done without all the bells and whistles, but smart features can make the experience even better. What kind of features are we talking about? Things like a cork grip, hook holder, and oversize guides. But having a lot of features doesn’t automatically make it a winner here. They have to be features that really work and add to the fishing experience. This category’s standout is the PLUSINNO Two-Piece Spinning, with an abundance of useful features. A couple of our favorites? The oversize ceramic guides helped guide the line smoothly for long casts, and the double locking structure on the reel seat held the reel tightly in place and never loosed up, even after bumpy boat rides.

With our favorite handle, the Cadence Fishing CR5 Spinning Rod also proved strong in this metric. Some of these rods have foam handles, but this one features a premium cork handle that fits perfectly in hand and makes all-day fishing comfort a reality. The High Altitude Lightweight Telescopic packed plenty of features, too. We especially liked the hook keeper that lets you store your hook while moving between fishing holes.

Portability

This is a crucial metric if you plan on traveling with your rod. Of course, it’s hard to beat a telescoping rod for portability, but some of the two-piece rods we tested were quite easy to take apart and put back together. The Cadence Fishing CR5 was one of these, and it made transporting a breeze.

One of the most portable rods we tested was the High Altitude Lightweight Telescopic. It was one of the lightest and easiest to transport of our test fleet. But many of the other telescoping rods were just as portable, including the Daiwa Megaforce Telescopic and the KastKing Blackhawk II Telescopic. If portability is important to you, we suggest trying out one of these rods.

Construction

While this isn’t the most exciting metric, it does make a big difference in how well a rod works. Depending on the material, you can get more sensitivity, strength, and fighting power. On top of that, the construction may be what determines if a rod lasts ten days or ten years.

There were a few standouts in this metric. The Daiwa Megaforce Telescopic was clearly built to last among the telescopic poles. Its carbon fiber construction combines strength and sensitivity to pick up little nibbles on our bait.

The true king of construction, though, is the St. Croix Triumph Travel. Built with a unique graphite fiber, this rod provided incredible sensitivity and fighting power. Of course, that quality doesn’t come cheap — it also comes with a high price tag.

Versatility

Another important metric to consider is versatility. And in this category, not all rods are created equal. Some are specifically made for fishing off the bottom of a lake, while others are made just for casting in saltwater environments.

The KastKing Blackhawk II Telescopic is a clear winner here. With its equally great performance in both fresh and saltwater, exceptional casting distance and sensitivity, and impressive fighting power, it can handle everything from small trout to large sea bass.

In comparison, while it’s built with quality in mind, the Ugly Stik Elite is really only made for freshwater fishing. Its fast action and light power design were clear indications of this. With that said, its versatility score took a hit.

Conclusion

Selecting the right fishing rod puts the odds more in your favor. Your personal fishing style is an important consideration. Do you plan to spend most of your days dropping a line off a boat, or will you be casting from the shoreline more often? Whatever it is, there’s a rod here designed just for you. We hope this article has been helpful in selecting a new rod. So, plan that next fishing trip, get out there, and snag that trophy fish.

How to Rig and Setup Crab Pots.

Dungeness Crabs are abundant in every bay and inlet along the Pacific Coast and are considered a summertime delicacy. The beauty of living near the saltwater and being able to head out in even a small boat and catch these tasty shellfish is not lost on thousands of people who go out crabbing every summer. I wrote this post for those of you who are new to crabbing and need a little information on what equipment you need. You can also check out our post Puget Sound Dungeness Crabbing Buying Guide for some of our favorite equipment.

A good haul of Dungeness Crab from Puget Sound. This pile will easily feed the whole family!

Crab Pots

There are many different styles of crab pots but basically you can separate them into two groups, round pots and collapsible traps.

Pots are usually geared more towards those looking to crab in deeper water or heavier currents. If you plan on trying to catch Dungeness Crab in the Pacific Ocean, where currents are strong, you want to pick up heavily weighted round pots. Pots tend to be heavier with the weight build into the frame, most weigh 10 to 20 pounds. They are also more expensive than collapsible traps. However, collapsible traps are extremely popular in areas like Puget Sound.

Collapsible traps tend to be less expensive. However, they are light weight and you need to add some pot weights so they don’t drift off. I spend most of my time crabbing in Puget Sound and the SMI/Beau Mac collapsible traps are my favorite. We typically are setting our traps in less than 80 feet of water, so a little added weight is all that is needed to keep the trap from drifting. Collapsible traps are also easier to store. If you plan on keeping your traps on your boat they are real space savers. If you are crabbing from a small boat where space is an issue, bring along the collapsible traps and assemble them one-by-one as you go!

Both traps and pots can be soaked for a long period of time. If you are planning on soaking for a few hours while fishing or overnight, traps and pots are preferred over rings.

Crab Rings

Crab rings are extremely popular, very effective, and preferred if you are looking to catch crab in shallow waters. Rings are popular with folks trying to catch crab from a dock or pier. I like to use crab rings when I am fishing in less than fifty feet. Rings lay flat on the bottom but when pulled, they create a basket that funnels crab to the bottom and keeps them there. Because a ring will simply lie on the bottom, crabs are free to come and go as they please. Fresh bait will draw them into the ring. When using rings, allowing a soak time of about 20 to 45 minutes is perfect. Crab will quickly eat away any bait. They will start searching for another food sources once the bait is gone.

Crab Trap Harness

When pulling up a crab ring, trap or pot it is important to pull it up evenly. A ring that is pulled up slanted can allow for crabs to crawl out the edge of the ring; a trap that is pulled up slanted allows crabs to potentially escape through an open door. A 3-way or 4-way harness solves this problem. These are designed to clip to the corners of a trap, or clipped evenly around a round pot or ring for a smooth and level retrieve. Harnesses are highly recommended over just tying your line to the edge of your pot/ring/trap.

Crabbing Lines

There are two options for your crabbing main line, yellow ¼ inch poly line or leaded line. Yellow poly is thinner, cheaper and it floats. Floating lines can cause problems when crabbing in an area with boat traffic. Let’s just say you have a 100’ line and decide to set your trap at a 50’ depth, lines can easily be tangled in a boat’s prop or cut off by one. If you decide to use yellow poly, be sure to clip on some weight to the line to pull it under the surface. I find snapping on a weight is a pain, and that a thin line is less comfortable to pull. Leaded lines are a little more expensive, but they offer huge benefits! Leaded line is easy to coil. You won’t have to worry about getting it tangled in someone’s prop because it sinks.

Crab Buoy

Here in Washington, we have many requirements pertaining to our crab floats. They must be half red, half white. You need to write your name and address on the buoy. They must be on the surface and visible at all times. Identifying which buoy belongs to you can be challenging at times. Use a PVC staff and either paint it a bright color or attach a flag to it, this will help you locate your pot quickly. Some folks will connect a multicolored buoy to their required red/white. I am a huge advocate of any form of customization; imagine motoring into a sea of red/white buoys and having to motor around looking for the one with your name written on it!

Bait Boxes

Bait boxes are an easy way to store bait in a trap. A bait box will slow down the crabs’ attempts to devour your bait. I prepare all of my bait boxes in advance, then I put them in a cooler so they are ready to go. Attach them permanently with wire ties or zip ties, temporarily with small bungies.

Bait Pins

If you are using a fish carcass for bait, a bait pin can be a great alternative to the bait box. Just run the pin through the mouth of a filleted out rockfish or salmon and into the bottom mesh of your ring/trap/pot.

Best Dungeness Crab Bait

Fresh baits work best. Save any filleted carcasses of salmon, trout, rockfish or lingcod because they make excellent bait for Dungeness Crab. Also, I have done very well with chicken, turkey legs and herring. One of the funnest things to do is catch flounder or sand dabs and use them in the trap.

Crab Measuring Device

Having a measuring device with you is extremely important. Every marine area has a specific minimum size requirement for crabs, and a crab measuring tool is essential. Possessing a crab that is even 1/16” under the minimum size can potentially yield you a confiscation of your entire catch and a hefty ticket.

Pot Pullers and Davits

Having an electric pot puller is nice for heavy pots or crabbing in deeper water. If you plan on doing any shrimping then you definitely need to invest in one. Even having a davit with a pulley on the boat makes pulling much easier. Plus it keeps the line from rubbing on the gunwale of the boat and keeps the pot from scratching up the side of your boat.

Electric Pot Puller Suggestions

• Scotty 2500 Electric Pot Puller – View on Amazon