www.remiwarren.com

In our opinion there are few things as inspiring as the stories of those willing to take the path less traveled. The history books are full of examples of explorers, prospectors, pioneers, and mountain men that chose to lead a different life. But in a modern world increasingly living a digital reality, and many of us neck deep in the rat race, these stories are becoming less and less common. The outdoors industry, by nature, attracts a relatively high proportion of men and women that have charted a less than common course through life. One that doesn’t necessarily follow today’s conventional definition of “normal”. But then there are those that take this to a whole new level, that somehow manage to keep one foot in the digital age, while truly blazing trails across a variety of mediums with an incurable desire to push their limits and question what’s possible. They may use modern technology to tell their stories in print, film or online but their spirit is as “pioneering” as that of the first human’s to cross the Bering Land Bridge. These outliers live on the fringes of their industries, unwilling to accept the status quo, and coast through their day to day lives.

Remi Warren is without question one of these outliers. From guiding and outfitting hunters in the mountains of the West to print, photography, TV and film projects, Remi has amassed a resume that most people would dream of. All before the age of 30.

Well known for his role in the award winning Solo Hunter TV show, his latest project Apex Predator, is not to be missed. One part Animal Planet, one part hunting show and one part human performance experiment it is without question one of the most unique concepts to hit ANY media scene in recent memory. We caught up with Remi in one of his rare down times between hunts and his various projects, so read on for one of the more inspiring interviews we’ve published to date. We cover everything from filming, to New Zealand, and hunting like a wolf so this installment of Blazing Trail is about as eclectic as it gets. Enjoy! Remi, you’ve had and continue to have a diversified career in hunting and outdoors media: guide, outfitter, writer, TV personality and now producer of your own show Apex Predator. How did it all start?

I really just started out guiding. Outdoor, TV and all this stuff was something that I always wanted to do and my thought starting out was I’d get into it by guiding. After high school I went up to Montana where I’d grown up hunting with my grandpa and took the Spring and Summer semesters off in college. So I had about six months to guide and work and I really had no plan; I just packed up my truck and headed to Montana. I figured if I had no other choice but to figure it out, I’d figure it out. I was there hunting a lot and didn’t have a job and kind of living in a tent, and because I was hunting so much, I ran into a guide who was working in the same area.

I was actually stalking a deer and these guys kind of messed up my stalk so I talked with them for a little bit and the next day I was on this group of elk in a completely different area and some guys came up behind me but I was way in front of them, so I’d kind of “claimed” the herd in terms of hunting etiquette. They said hey, didn’t we see you yesterday? I said yeah. And then they said wait, were you here two days ago? I again said yeah. So three days in a row I was in the same place as these guys and the guide asks if I was interested in talking to the outfitter about working for them. So I agreed to talk to the outfitter and the outfitter says hey instead of working against me, do you want to work for me? And that’s how I got started guiding!

That sure worked out in your favour!

Yeah, exactly. But when you’re out there, when you give yourself no other option and trust that you’re going to figure it out things will work out, that’s my philosophy. On the writing side of things, I’ve always enjoyed writing so I honestly just started writing. I worked for a small publication in Montana for a while called Real Hunting. It’s no longer around but I got hooked up with them, by again running into the owner out in the hills. I was guiding and I used to keep this photo album, both of the stuff I’d shot and scenery and client photos as well, in my truck for when I pick up clients to give them something to thumb through and get excited about.

So I was just talking to this guy and he asked me some questions and so I showed him this photo album and he was impressed with the photos. I mentioned that I did some writing and that was pretty much it. I started working with them but quickly kind of ended up being the main editor and did essentially everything for the magazine from graphic design to laying out stories to writing about half the content. That probably gave me years worth of magazine experience in a pretty short period of time. It was a lot of hard work and not a lot of pay but it was worth it because I was building a resume and by that point, I was 22 years old and had a repertoire of running a magazine and hundreds of articles and stuff that nobody else my age had. I really just dove headfirst into the industry, but my philosophy is just work hard and don’t ask for anything and that’s worked so far.

A lot of people ask what’s the easiest way to have a hunting TV show and I used to absolutely hate that question because I don’t know the easiest way. I did it my way and my way wasn’t easy! The easy way usually doesn’t get you where you’re going or where you’re wanting to go. Unfortunately, I think a lot of people see all the shows and see how affordable filming equipment is and think it is easy but it’s obviously not. But that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t just dive in and bank on the fact that you’ll adapt and figure it out if that’s what you really want to do.

Yeah. Exactly. I think that’s my big thing, if you commit to doing it, you’re going to do it. It’s not that hard but it’s really hard for people to commit to something that’s scary or unknown. Nobody is going to give you anything, you’ve just got to realize that and go and work hard. Don’t ask for anything and prove that you can do it and people will start giving you what you need. For me, that’s how it worked out. It involves a lot of work for not much initially but for me, I didn’t care. I was doing what I loved. And that’s why I was a guide and then outfitter so I could make my own living and not have to rely on something else working out.

So from running that publication or doing the bulk of the work for that publication, when did you actually make the jump into your other projects? Obviously you now have the outfitting business and then on the writing side you write for Western Elk Hunter and more recently you branched into Solo Hunter and now Apex Predator. We’d probably need the entire interview to tell the story behind all of that, but what’s the brief timeline?

I was just finishing up college and it ended up that the guy who bought the outfitting business from my grandpa back in 1980 called me up as he knew that I was looking to stop guiding for another outfitter, that I wanted to go out on my own. I was planning on actually trying to buy out the guy that I worked for but one of the other outfitters in the area called me up and said I’ll sell you my business for what I bought it for in 1980. That sounded pretty good so it ended up that in the year I graduated college I bought the outfitting business and getting my own Forest Service permit, etc. for the area. I was about 22 at the time and so I’d been guiding, now had my own outfit and then at the same time, I was really working hard on the magazine in the off season. The magazine was pretty much what I did for the bulk of the off season and then in the Fall I guided. So this all led into just buying some cameras and I honestly just started filming my hunts. I’ve actually filmed my hunts since I was probably 15 years old, so I filmed my own hunts, I filmed clients’ hunts and I filmed pretty much everything I could, I just loved filming things. I just filmed and filmed and filmed for years. I wasn’t even sure I was ever going to do anything with the footage but I saw it more as practice. One day I wanted to have a TV show so, in my mind, I was just practising for that day. I couldn’t even tell you how many hours of footage I had but it was a lot!

Then one day, I saw something online, I don’t even know where it was, probably on YouTube, called Solo Hunters. By this point I rarely if ever watched TV so it was the first I’d heard of it and I thought it was a really cool show concept. So I called them up and told them I had a lot of footage and listed off some of the better hunts and footage that I’d taken. The guy that owned and ran the show ended up living not very far from where I live. We were about four miles apart!

I assume you mean Tim Burnett?

Yep. So he suggested that we meet up and he asked if I really had all the footage I said I did. I told him of course I did so he asked me to bring it to his office one day and when I did he was like holy smokes! He was looking for some additional content at the time and I was literally thrown into the show. But I’d filmed for no other purpose other than the practice film. I wasn’t trying to make an “audition” tape or anything like that. Obviously the footage wasn’t as good as when I now go out with the intent of filming for Solo Hunters, I was just filming for YouTube clips really. But we used it for the show and I kept filming and kept pushing myself to make it better and better and over time, it kind of morphed into the Solo Hunter episodes that you see today.

Ok, let’s jump into your most recent project: Apex Predator. For the record, what an awesome show, really such a cool concept. For our readers that haven’t seen it the wolf pack episode is literally must watch TV for the outdoorsman or woman.

Thank you very much. It’s a tactic that my brother and I wondered about for a while now. And as you saw in that episode, it definitely works. It’s not for everyone obviously but goes to show that humans are pretty crazy hunters in their own respects. The human body is capable of a lot more than we give it credit for most of the time. We just don’t realize it when we’re stuck in our own little worlds. But when you go out there and try something a little bit different, something that maybe isn’t mainstream or something people think about as a valid technique and it turns out to be successful that’s pretty cool. Especially when it’s modelled after a highly adapted and successful predator that we as humans assume we can’t compete with. If you look at some of the anthropological data that’s emerged from the barefoot running movement in the past few years, the prevailing theory is that’s how we initially hunted, by running animals down, literally to the point of exhaustion. Combined with our brains, our physical attributes make for a pretty lethal combo.

Yeah, exactly. That’s the thing too. We can run a lot smarter. Elk can run fast but we can run smart. So in that particular episode it worked because the elk ran down below the road for a few miles before cutting back uphill to use their planned escape route. We instead ran up to the road and used the road to cut across and headed them off, we ran a fraction of what it did and exerted half the energy by just thinking a little bit.

So what was the inspiration behind Apex Predator?

The show is inspired by nature and my fascination with the natural world, plain and simple. I was out hunting in an area where I hunt all the time and I was walking up the ridge and noticed some wolf tracks. It’s a certain route that I follow and have figured out over the years that it was the best way to approach this one great elk spot due to how the wind typically behaved, the terrain, the cover, and everything else. So I noticed on this one particular day in the snow, that there are wolf tracks and the wolf tracks are following the exact same route that I am, literally to the tee and it’s not the most natural or easy route. It’s not like following a corridor, it’s following a ridge at then at one point it ducks off the ridge and goes into this thicket of trees and then it comes back up and then drops back down into this other valley and it comes back up to this other meadow. So I stop and I think about it and that wolf knows exactly what I know. It’s amazing! We were both hunting these elk the exact same way!

And I think a lot of us wonder am I hunting this animal right? So when you’re out there and have this sort of scenario, here is an animal that hunts day in, day out and they do they’re doing the exact same thing that I’m doing? I must be doing something right! It knows what I know and vice versa and that was a pretty cool experience. In another instance, actually the first time I saw a live wolf, I was out elk hunting with my bow and I this wolf pops up right in front of me, and this is before we ever really saw them in our area, so I was pretty excited about it. It was only about 40 – 50 yards away so I got my camera out and filmed it a little bit and then got back to hunting. I was hunting this pretty big elk and drew up back around the ridge I knew they were on and started to put a stalk in on this herd of elk. But before I get close – I’m about one ridge away – the wolf runs up from the bottom at the side and starts chasing them. At this point I figure well, my stalk’s already over, so I might as well try to cut them off as I had a feeling I knew where they were going.

With the wolf chasing them the elk headed up and I knew the better route so I started sprinting up the hill. I could see them most of the way. Their tongues were hanging out. It was a hot day. I was drinking water out of my hydration bladder as I was running and they were just beat and I ran right up and stood behind a big ponderosa tree and these elk were walking by pretty much close enough to touch. I snapped a few pictures with my camera and the bulls never came out. A couple of smaller bulls did but the bigger bulls didn’t and my assumption was that their antlers were so heavy that they had to turn and cut away from the herd before the younger bulls and cows did which I later saw (the bulls) down the ridge.

But it was eye opening! It showed that it’s actually possible to keep up with elk in steep terrain. I’d always heard growing up, “well if an elk runs away, they’ll go for ten miles.” And that’s just not necessarily true. But those things you grow up with are in your head and I was just like, wow. From that moment everything I’d ever known about hunting was in question. I decided I just needed to experience it for myself and find out what is true and what’s not. That was a real eye-opener. I looked at it as, that’s how the wolf would hunt and for us to be able to do that same thing, that’s pretty crazy. I thought what other animal could we emulate or learn from? So those ideas had been in my mind for a long time and I thought about the show for a really long time and thought about the other animals out there that we as humans might have similarities to or are so specialized in one task or skill that we could learn from? Or maybe we can’t do it all but it’s something that we need to learn and so that’s where Apex Predator came from. Awesome! That was going to be one of my questions: how did you go about picking the various species that you ended up deciding on for each episode. It’s such an interesting mix and a truly unique concept. Even if someone isn’t that into hunting, there is some very cool stuff in the series. For instance, the free diving training you went through was incredible. To be able to learn to hold your breath that long is impressive and most people would say there is no feasible way the human body can do that. But as you found out, that’s just not true.

Yeah. Exactly. I think almost everyone can do exactly what I did. One of the things I wanted to do with the show was show others that we can do a lot more than we think. I’m not necessarily anyone special. I’m in good shape and I have certain genetic capabilities and qualities and accumulate a lot of training time because I’ve spent so much time in the field, I’d say the better part of my adult life. So I have a few things stacked in my favour but when it comes to stuff like holding the breath, I have no experience and any single person out there can do exactly what I did in that episode.

All of our bodies are designed naturally to handle much longer under water than we think. It’s just whether you can get past the mental threshold or barrier. So I think that’s one of those things I would have never understood. I would have heard about it and probably thought it was cool but until I tried it I wouldn’t have really understood it. I learn through experience. I’m not stubborn but I don’t necessarily take things entirely at face value. I try to take good advice when it’s given but I also need to learn things on my own sometimes and this is one of those things. For me it’s always been better to learn through experience and I think by showing the experience through the show, people will get a better appreciation for what is in fact possible and gain a better understanding of the concepts. I love to learn new things and so any time I can learn something new myself or share some kind of learning, I think that’s pretty awesome.

That is the power of video. Our publication obviously is written content only and for the most part, long form written content which has been well received but ultimately, when people SEE it, like you said, it’s a whole other game. It’s one of the most unique “hunting” shows – it’s a biological case study.

Exactly! A human biology case study through the lens of our abilities as hunters. To me that is the human story and a lot of people don’t grasp that. To hunters that’s not necessarily news. I think a lot of hunters probably don’t have as deep of an appreciation for that aspect of hunting but, in particular, the non hunters or of course the anti-hunters don’t see it as a natural human activity which of course is the farthest thing from the truth.

Yeah, and that’s another reason I wanted to do it. It opens it up to a broader spectrum of people and it’s not that I’m trying to cater to people who don’t hunt, but I’m just showing people who don’t hunt and people who do hunt that we’re not that much different from many of the animals out there. To be honest, I learned a lot from the animals we covered in the show and I use techniques that we (humans) learned from animals a long time ago, every day. Whether you’re sitting in a tree stand hunting deer or crouching in a ground blind, these are tactics adopted from animals.

Or in the buffalo episode, where we looked at the Plains Indians and how they figured out the relationship between the wolves and the bison. With humans, if the bison run they’re safe, as at that time our weapons were pretty primitive and we needed to get close. But with the wolves, they kill by chasing. A wolf would not attack a standing bison because they just aren’t strong enough. So they need to get them to panic and run and then they can catch them. So the bison wouldn’t run where possible when wolves approached but would when a bipedal human did. So the Plains Indians developed a technique, later made famous in a classic Western painting, where they would wear wolf skins and crawl within shooting distance of the bison herd. And again, as we show in the episode, it’s a tactic that works.

It just speaks to the power of the adaptive human mind and body. I think that’s one of the things you covered really well in Apex Predator, the mental aspects of it. The ability to do it physically still boils down to the mental aptitude and willingness to just go out and try it.

Absolutely, you have to be willing to try new things and fail sometimes if you want to learn. You seem to have a definite affinity for the wolf and I couldn’t agree more, for me the wolf is one of the most fascinating animals on the planet. But the wolf issue is very different in Canada than it is in the US given the history of their near eradication and then the ill-planned re-introduction. What is your take on the wolf situation in the West? You guide and outfit in Montana and there are many people that call the West home who believe that the whole “smoke a pack a day” approach is the most appropriate response. I’m going to go out on a limb and guess that you don’t agree with that?

As hunters, we get all up in tiffs about the anti hunters and non hunters being so emotional but then on the wolf issue the same emotional reaction is happening with hunters as well. When we go that route, we lose all of our bargaining power, all of our credibility. We really lose everything that we stand for and that really bugs me because if we’re going to stick to a model (the North American Wildlife Model), then we need to stick to that model.

Sometimes that model doesn’t necessarily go with what we personally and emotionally feel. But if we start managing animals based on emotions and not science, then what are we doing? We’re no different than everybody that’s against hunting because the only argument they have is an emotional one. We can’t “cherry pick” our stance and handle things emotionally for one situation and then when it’s in our favour, fall back on the science and conservation based approach and say this is what we stand for. I think we stay a lot more credible if we just pick our management strategy and go with it. So I think the predators need to be managed, and I think the non-predators need to be managed but we need to stay aligned with the model we know is the right model and not get caught up in these emotional arguments. It really hurts our cause.

I couldn’t agree more. Eradication is no different than outright protection. Those are logically identical mindsets and emotionally identical mindsets, and as hunters our number one counterpoint to the anti-hunting groups is the scientific, rational, unemotional benefits of hunting, which we know to be irrefutable. There is no debate on the balance of science and logic, we win. We win every time. But when we get drawn into these emotional battles, as you said, it ruins our credibility.

Yeah, exactly. When did you start outfitting in New Zealand?

I started going over there… I don’t even know now… about five years ago probably.

So, being a guy who has outfitted in New Zealand now for a number of years, for somebody who is looking at New Zealand as maybe their first international hunt because it is quite a popular spot it seems these days, do you think DIY is a realistic way to go for your first hunt, or do you think that’s biting off a little more than they can chew?

It’s definitely biting off more than they can chew and that’s just my honest opinion. But it does depend where you’re from and what your experience is. I’m just going to be blunt about it. If all you’ve ever hunted is deer from a tree stand, you’re not ready. You won’t handle it and you’ll probably die. It’s serious stuff in NZ.

Let’s say we’re talking about a Rocky Mountain US or an Alberta, BC, or Alaska resident who’s hunted sheep, goats or high country elk and mule deer?

I think that if you have a lot of mountain goat and sheep hunting experience, you’ll be fine. I know a lot of guys who have a lot of experience but it’s a lot harder to hunt than anywhere else I’ve ever hunted, physically, and I think the problem is there are shortcuts with the helicopters. So you see all these people, say on TV or in magazines, who probably shouldn’t be in those kinds of mountains shooting animals and you assume that it’s easy. And the assumption that it’s easy is what gets people in trouble.

I think if you have experience you’d be fine but if you don’t have that true mountain hunting experience, on a level of skill from one to ten, NZ is a ten! It depends where you go too. I hunt areas that are really hard to hunt and it’s where I like to hunt but it’s dangerous and it’s hard but those are the areas that I like. The mountains are steep and they’re big and sometimes the weather can be pretty bad with floods and even simple access is tough. If you don’t have experience it’s not for you – you probably shouldn’t try it on your own – but if you’ve been hunting a lot and if you’re smart and you realize that it is going to be difficult and you come prepared, then it shouldn’t be a problem. It’s really on an individual basis so I can’t really say one way or the other but I will say if you don’t have any true mountain hunting experience, it’s probably not a place to start off with or, it wouldn’t be something that I’d go out and do by myself. Great input. Let’s move on to some filming questions. There a lot of people these days really into self-filming and documenting their hunts and adventures, whether it’s with a GoPro or other products, but it’s not as easy as it looks. What are some tips, say three to five tips for people that want to go out and film their hunt and get more experience with that side of things?

The most important thing is get a camera you’re not afraid of thrashing. Everybody always asks about the most expensive camera. My feeling is, only get a camera that you’re comfortable having out 100% of the time. If it’s in your pack, you aren’t going to use it. I’ve gone through that – it needs to be accessible. Some people worry it’s an expensive camera and just keep it in their pack. That’s the worst place. If you have a camera and you keep it in your pack, you might as well leave it at home. So have your camera at ready, that’s number one. The most important thing is you can’t share anything you don’t film. Don’t forget to hit the record button, I’ve done that I don’t know how many times. Just be familiar with your gear because a lot of times, things happen in the moment. Something will always go wrong at crunch time like a battery dying. If you’re really familiar with your camera and use it all the time, you’ll know all the settings, every function. People just grab them and flip them open and know how to record and that’s it but things can go wrong. You should know how to quickly fix things not necessarily mechanically but operationally. Those are pretty much the main tips. Oh, and always bring extra batteries!

I think the ‘be familiar’ tip is really good one because. I’ve only taken my GoPro on a couple of hunts and you’re spot on, number one it was in my pack and I didn’t bother using it 90% of the time but then when I did take it out I wasn’t familiar enough with its functions to capture all the things I wanted to capture!

Exactly. A good way to look at it is take the camera out on as many non-hunting outings as possible. I would just go out and every time I shot my bow, I’d film because setting up a camera with a tripod fast, especially with bow hunting, is the hardest thing I’ve ever done in my life. So I’d practice the camera part (setting it up, getting it ready) outside of hunting situations.

I used to shoot a lot of big mule deer and since I started self-filming, I’ve shot maybe one or two big mule deer because it’s just that hard. I actually didn’t really rifle hunt very much until I started doing Solo Hunters because the challenge is now the filming. When you’re crawling in close and it’s difficult to do so the more you practise with it in a controlled environment you’ll learn the easy things that make it even easier.

Of course, makes sense. Every hunt you go on, film your friends. I’ll bet if I put all my videos that I had just on one timeline and let it play, it would probably play for a year straight without stopping.

Wow! That’s a lot of film.

I’ve had that much time behind the camera and just over the years, it’s just filming, filming and filming. Maybe not that much, that’s probably an exaggeration but I don’t even know how much footage I have or had or erased. Quite a bit but it feels like I’ve got so much footage I could never even comb through it all.

Exaggeration or not, the bottom line is the point you’re making is you have practised a lot. Non-stop, every chance you get. If that’s something you actually want to go after then get out there and practise.

Yep, exactly. Even on my off days, I’ll go film… I’ll just film some random thing. I’m on the road all the time but I meet up with a friend who is a photographer and we’ll go out and take pictures or videos of even non-hunting stuff. Just film whatever. Practise wherever you can.

I think that brings up a good point too. Hunting seasons are only so long and if you only film when you’re hunting then you’ll be figuring out the filming half the time if not 75-80% of the time as opposed to getting good footage or at least getting the practice in whether it’s fishing or hiking or trail running or climbing. Just get out there and do it.

The other thing too with filming is, the way I am, you have to have a goal. If your goal is to film a hunt, then that’s your goal. You pass up opportunities that are not going to be filmed. It has to be your number one priority, and it’s very hard for people to do that and so that’s another reason it’s so hard to capture great footage. They want to get into filming but then a big buck walks out and they shoot it. If you really want to get into filming, then that is your most important goal and that’s really hard to commit to but once you commit to it, then you get things on film. Great insight, OK last few questions. For someone going on their first international hunt, what would you say is the best bang for their buck? What’s the best mountain hunt out there outside of North America?

Definitely New Zealand. It’s just accessible and there is a lot of opportunity. If you’re English speaking it makes it nice. Compared to other places in the world, it doesn’t have the cultural troubles or political troubles. It’s got wild species, wild places. It’s a pretty cool place.

You’ve got a lot of good footage from there so it seems like a hell of a place to go and hunt if you’re into that style of hunting.

As always, let’s finish with some rapid fire questions. You’ve been to a lot of places – so you can answer this question in one of two ways – what’s your bucket list hunt or what’s one you have done and you would give anything to do again?

I want to hunt Stone sheep in BC and I want to hunt ibex in one of the “stans”.

What’s the toughest or most satisfying hunt you’ve been on?

The most satisfying for me is big mule deer with a bow. The challenge is a big part of it and for me it’s just one of those animals that I really get into. I think it’s pretty challenging to get a really big, high country mule deer with a bow. So that’s one of them for me for sure, and then I’d probably say tahr in New Zealand. I’ve got a lot of respect for those animals and that hunt. I like the country you find them in and it’s a truly fun hunt.

You’re known for being willing to eat just about anything. What’s the gnarliest game animal or species you’ve ever gone out on a limb and tried?

I’ve got to think about that. There is something and I always forget what it is. I was thinking about it the other day, I had something that was really bad. It wasn’t the coyote you ate on Meateater with Steven Rinella was it?

The coyote wasn’t bad while we were eating it but it’s not necessarily something I want to keep eating all the time. McDonald’s is probably the worst thing I’ve eaten in a long time. There is actually a lot of times that I’ve been on the road and pulled off and got something at a rest stop and thought, I would rather eat coyote.

The pink slime, Slim Jim type of stuff?

Yeah. Those processed, mystery meat products are just disgusting, I would definitely rather eat coyote than a lot of that stuff.

And last one, as a longstanding writer, what are some key book recommendations? These don’t have to be ‘how to’ books, they can just be really good historical accounts but what are some really good books that you have loved, or gifted that’s from the hunting or outdoor-adventure realm?

One of my all-time favourites is Peter Capstick’s Death in the Long Grass. I’ve probably read that book about a hundred times. I did it for every book report in school growing up. I’ve read all of his books and that made me want to go to Africa so when I turned 18, that’s what I did, I went to Africa. I just really like those kind of stories. When I was growing up, I read Cameron Hanes’ bowhunting books and was really into those as well. I really enjoyed his books and they really helped me formulate my plans for the kind of hunting I was into. I basically read his Bowhunting Trophy Blacktail book and was like, “I’m going black tail hunting!” He put some really great stuff in all his books. Those would be my top recommendations.

From the Editors:

Apex Predator is one of the most unique “hunting” shows to hit the air in a long time. Remi’s insatiable curiosity, and obvious respect for the animals he’s studying is rivaled only by his willingness to dive in and get dirty in his attempt to learn from and mimic some of the world’s top predators. If you have even a passing interest in animal biology and human potential, it is literally must watch TV.

To learn more about Remi and his various projects or to download episodes of Apex Predator go to either www.remiwarren.com or www.apexpredator.tv for episode listings and more info.

Massachusetts hunters are preparing for the approaching spring turkey season. Subject to limitations, the season will last for several weeks and include the Youth Turkey Hunt Day. This article will go through the specifics of the Massachusetts turkey season, including crucial dates, rules, and advice on a productive hunt. So gather your supplies, and let’s begin!

Massachusetts Turkey Season 2024

During this season, a hunting or sports license, a turkey permit, and three turkey tags are needed to hunt wild turkeys in Massachusetts. For the eleventh season, beginning in April, turkey hunting will also be permitted on Cape Cod National Seashore.

MA Youth Turkey Season

MA Youth Turkey SeasonSeason Start DateSeason End Date Big Game Zones 1-13 (Youth Hunt:)22-Apr22-Apr

MA Spring Turkey Season

MA Sping Turkey SeasonSeason Start DateSeason End Date Big Game (Zones 1-13)24-Apr20-May

MA Fall Turkey Season

MA Fall Turkey SeasonHunting Season Start DateHunting Season End Date Big Game (Zones 10-13***)2-Oct25-Nov Big Game (Zones 1-9***)16-Oct25-Nov

From October 16 through October 28, 2024, hunters may use shotguns, muzzleloading shotguns, and archery tools during the autumn turkey hunting season in wildlife management zones 1 through 13. However, only archery gear is permitted during specific times of the fall season. The tables that are presented offer further information on these times.

Permitted EquipmentStart DatesEnd Dates WMZ 1-9 No fall turkey hunting2-Oct14-Oct Shotgun, muzzleloading16-Oct28-Oct Archery only30-Oct25-Nov WMZ 10-13 Archery only2-Oct14-Oct Shotgun, muzzleloading, archery16-Oct28-Oct Archery only30-Oct25-Nov

Bag Limits

SeasonBag LimitNotes Spring2 bearded birds2 birds may be harvested on the same day Fall1 turkey of either sex

Turkey Licenses

LicensesFees Turkey Permit, Resident$10.00 Turkey Permit, Non-resident$15.00 Resident Hunting$29.50 Resident Hunting (Age 65-69)$14.75

Note: For the entire Hunting license list, view it on the mass.gov website

Hunting Regulations

• Massachusetts turkey hunters need licenses and permits. Massachusetts requires a Hunting or Sporting License, a Turkey permit, and a Safety sticker. Non-residents require a Big game license, Turkey permission, and a Safety sticker. Turkey hunting with a shotgun or muzzleloader requires a safety sticker. Sighting down the barrel requires this sticker. Visit any MassWildlife office or contact [email protected] to get a new sticker.

• Turkey hunting equipment rules vary in spring. Shotgun hunting is limited to gauge 10 and shot size #4. Smoothbore shotguns may only be.775 calibers and #4 shot size for muzzleloader hunting. Archery equipment must have a draw weight of at least 40 lbs at 28 inches or peak draw and well-sharpened steel broadhead blades of at least 7/8 inches. Expanding broadheads and portable releases are permitted, but airbows are not. Permitted disabled hunters may use crossbows.

• During the autumn turkey season in Massachusetts, hunters must wear blaze orange caps in Wildlife Management Areas stocked with pheasants or quail.

• Massachusetts, licensed turkey hunters may call turkeys for other hunters but cannot carry firearms or archery equipment if they have surpassed the season limit. Even without tags, the caller needs a license and Turkey permission. Massachusetts turkey hunters cannot utilize electronic calls, dogs, bait, drive or herd birds, or live decoys.

• Hunters must rescue and utilize dead or injured game animals. The animal must be maintained or sent to someone else for processing. Damaged, decaying, ill, or contaminated animals are exempt from this regulation.

• Massachusetts residents must report turkey harvests within 48 hours at a check station or online via MassFishHunt. After harvesting the turkey, you must affix the paper tag from your permit to the carcass and keep it intact until it is reported and processed for food or taxidermy. Online harvesters must put their confirmation number on the carcass tag.

• Massachusetts has spring and fall turkey seasons. Spring runs from the final Monday of April to the fourth Saturday. Wildlife management zones (WMZs) affect fall. WMZ 1-9’s season runs from the 6th Monday before Thanksgiving to the Saturday after. WMZ 10-13’s season runs from the 8th Monday before Thanksgiving to the Saturday after. Sunday hunting is prohibited. There is a special kids’ turkey hunt on the Saturday before spring. This hunt requires the young turkey program and Basic hunter education.

Note: For Complete Massachusetts Turkey hunting regulation, you review the Commonwealth of Massachusetts website

FAQ: Turkey Season in Massachusetts

Cibolo Creek Ranch in West Texas was established in the mid-1800s by Milton Faver. Legend has it that Faver fled Missouri for Texas after gunning a man down in a duel. Only 45 miles north of the Mexican border and an hour south of Marfa, the 30,000-acre ranch became an important outpost for trade along the Rio Grande. More than 170 years later, it’s now known as the home of a potential record book deer killed by Texas native John Hughes.

Hughes’ rare deer is a Carmen Mountain whitetail, the resident cervids of the area that were first discovered in Mexico in the 1930s. They are one of four subspecies of the whitetail deer in Texas and a smaller cousin of the Coues deer, which makes the size of Hughes’ 131-inch free-range buck that much more impressive. Some people call Carmen Mountain whitetails “Coues deer,” and Boone and Crockett put them in the same category in its record books.

“On our first morning, we were driving back up in the mountains, and Jasper, our guide, saw what he thought was a monster Coues,” Hughes said. “My son Coleman jumped out, and they advanced on this deer. Then they turned, and they ran back to the truck. The buck was so big Jasper wanted Coleman to have a super solid rest, and so he put him on the truck.”

The rare deer was on the move and quickly outrunning the range of his son’s rifle.

Related: World Record Whitetail: The Top 5 Typical Archery Bucks

“He had his .308 suppressed Remington 700, a rifle he’s had since he was 8 years old. That deer was at 200 yards; can’t get a shot. Deer’s at 400 yards, and I’m like, “Bro, you’ve got to chuck that rifle. Grab Jasper’s .28 Nosler.”

Coleman took his shot at 600 yards and missed just right off the front shoulder. The deer disappeared.

The next morning, Hughes and his son headed out on their own with Jasper out of commission from salmonella poisoning. They located a giant aoudad, and Coleman was able to put a perfect shot on it.

“This thing was an absolute beast,” Hughes said. “Sheep life is pretty rough. They live in very rough places, and they fight for their [mates], you know, unlike most other animals. This guy was probably a rut away from being a one-horned sheep. His right horn was just about broke off.”

Killing the Aoudad was the first of a couple of high points for Coleman on this hunt. He was also able to ring the bell on a heavy mule deer later in the trip.

After they packed to sheep out, the men headed back to the spot they last saw the big deer.

Related: 5 Sleeper Public Land Whitetail States You Don’t Want to Miss in October

“We went right back up in there, and there he was,” Hughes said. “I didn’t know it was that same deer since I didn’t actually see him yesterday. I was like, ‘Holy crap, that’s a 130-inch whitetail buck.’ Now, in South Texas, we would cull it, you know, two years old and not a desirable whitetail for what we’re used to in South Texas. So we just watched it meander off.”

Jim Breck owns High West Outfitter, the operation Hughes and his son were hunting with. He called Hughes to see how they were making out without their guide. After hearing about the deer, Breck told Hughes that there are no whitetails in the area and that he was describing a potential world record Carmen Mountain whitetail.

Breck grabbed their sick guide and drove out to where the Hughes’ were posted up.

“I’m 700 yards away, so I set up with Jasper’s Nosler,” Hughes said. “All I can see is his head and his antlers. He’s tucked himself in up under a cliff with a bunch of logs and trees in front of him.”

The men had been watching the buck for an hour, so they knew he was not in a hurry to move. They decided to touch off a round into the cliffs above the deer to see if they could roust him.

“He scooted out, maybe took about three or four steps,” he said. “Just enough that I could make a shoulder. My first shot missed to the right just like Coleman did. The winds up there took my second shot just left.”

His third shot found the buck’s shoulder, and the animal dropped where it stood.

Related: Antlered Doe: Missouri Hunter Shoots Huge, Rare 16-Pointer

“I didn’t realize how big it was till we got up there. Like, holy shit,” he said.

A Carmen Mountain whitetail in the 90- to 100-inch range is considered typical in size, but anything beyond that 100-inch mark is world-class.

The men green-scored the stud at 131 inches, which is only 7/8-inch shy of the No. 5 typical Boone and Crockett record Coues deer (again, B&C doesn’t distinguish between Carmen Mountain whitetail and Coues deer). It’s also a shoo-in for the Safari Club International (SCI) Top 10; SCI is the only club that recognizes and ranks the Carmen Mountain whitetail as a category separate from Coues.It was a rare deer indeed.

With only 128 Carmel Mountain whitetails total in the SCI record books, Hughes is in some pretty exclusive company. Of course, the record book buzz is something he could take or leave.

“Personally, I don’t give a rat’s ass,” Hughes said. “I guess is a big deal just because there’s not very many big Coues deer killed anymore. For me, hunting with my son and having the story means more.”

Read Next: Texas Elk Hunting is Brimming With Free-Range Opportunities

Are you curious are the most expensive fishing rods on the market? There’s an old saying that it’s better to buy once and cry once than multiple times. When it comes to rod quality, it comes down to the materials used, attention to detail, and the experience of the craftsman. In this article, we’ll show you a handful of expensive rods that you should check out.

Are expensive fishing rods worth it?

Take it from someone who has sold a lot of fishing rods, the right rod is worth the money.

Pat Schlapper (Bassmaster Elite Angler)

Yes, expensive fishing rods are worth it. However, only you can decide whether it is worthwhile. Do you fish frequently enough to justify the purchase, or will this be another beauty on a shelf collecting dust?

Do you wish to feel a lot and compete in competitions, or are you more of a casual/recreational angler? Do you need the most expensive fishing rods?

As stated, the short answer is yes. It’s worth it to pay a little more for better quality. However, no amount of high-quality, superior technology can make up for time on the water and first-hand experience. Purchase of this magnitude warrants an angler who will put in both the time and effort to maximize a rod’s potential.

Expensive rods are more sensitive, detect tiny bites, and are more enjoyable to use than their less costly equivalents.

The difference between a $50 rod and a $150 rod is significantly greater than between a $100 rod and a $300 rod.

1. Oyster Bamboo Fly Rods

Handcrafted Heirloom for Future Generations

Key Features:

• Full coverage hand engraving by W.S. Oyster on the reel seat and ferrules
• Gunmetal blued nickel silver hardware, premium snake guides
• Richly flamed cane with silk thread wraps and trim wraps on every guide

The Oyster Bamboo Fly Rod has a starting price of $4,600, making it the most expensive fishing rod on the market. It is partly because each example is handcrafted after a client makes a purchase.

It is the world’s only bamboo fly rod with a manufacturer who engraves his rods by hand. More so, each rod is outstanding in terms of performance and looks.

2. Orvis Penns Creek Full-flex Bamboo Fly Fishing Rod

Classic Fishing Rod with Remarkable Casting

Key Features:

• It has a fast action blank, light tip, and superb rod strength
• It has a timeless style, built with impeccable care and craftsmanship
• Short and light, encouraging effortless short-medium distance casting

Whether you’re searching for your first bamboo fly rod or you’re a seasoned collector, you’ll want Orvis Penns Creek Full-flex Bamboo Fly Rod in your collection.

Perhaps Orvis’s most enjoyable full-flex bamboo trout rod in more than a century. In the traditional trout line, weight, fast action, and a soft tip are coupled with the power of a swelled butt.

3. Hamachi 2018/2019 XOS GT’n’Doggie Expedition Series Popper

Best Popping and Spinning Fishing Rods

Key Features:

• Spinning popper rods – Spin reel version (fixed spool/thread line reel)
• XOS Gt Doggie Series, suitable for popper, lure fishing, and general spinning both shore and boat
• Ultra-high tensile full nano carbon blank

The XOS GT’n’Doggie Expedition series is a three-piece popping, plugging, stick bait rod with great casting distance and power!

If you’re after Jurassic-sized GTs, gigantic red bass, monster Dogtooth, Bluefin/Yellowfin Tuna, or other oceanic monsters, then this is the rod you need.

4. G. Loomis Asquith 690-4 All Water Fly Rod

Most Technologically Advanced Fly Rod

Key Features:

• Proprietary spiral X construction, superb power transfer from tip to hand
• Quick recovery, increased sensitivity, titanium guides
• Exceptionally light, swing, and weight

G. Loomis Asquith is the world’s most technologically advanced fly rod, a result of its international collaboration in design, materials, and manufacturing methods.

This fishing rod is built on Shimano’s Spiral X platform, which provides excellent power transmission from tip to hand, rapid recovery, and enhanced sensitivity.

This rod is a step into the future of rod production technology, designed by world casting champion Steve Rajeff, bringing a world-class rod to the average angler.

5. Sage Fly Fishing – X Fly Rod

Multi-Application Fly Rod with Fast Action

Key Features:

• Graphite Ille Technology, Fast action
• Fuji ceramic stripper guides, dark green thread wraps with metallic grey trim wraps
• Gloss black anodized aluminum up-locking reel seat, cork foregrip, and rear grip

The Sage X Fly rod’s all-new fast action taper, developed with Konnetic Technology, provides more blank recovery and a sharper tip stop. It results in tighter, more efficient loops across the board.

More so, this taper enables you to dig deeper into the rod and access the bottom portions, bringing power closer to the angler.

6. Sage Salt HD Fly Rod

Best Fly Rod for Fast Moving Saltwater Species

Key Features:

• Squid Ink blank color, Black thread wraps with blue trim wraps
• Integrated hidden hook keeper in the real seat, laser etched line weight on the slide band
• Black rod bag with blue logo and model tag, blue powder-coated aluminum rod tube with Sage medallion

The Sage Salt HD Fly Rods are built with a singular purpose in mind: to allow anglers to reach further, faster, and with more delicacy.

Sometimes anglers must make rapid first shots and be able to repeat this at speed or faster. Because of the salt’s fast-moving inhabitants, this fishing rod is the perfect combination of speed and accuracy.

7. G Loomis NRX T2S Fly Rods

Best For Top Saltwater Fly Angler

Key Features:

• Dynamic recovery technology, Grip ferrule two-piece design
• Recoil snake guides, Titanium SiC stripper guides
• Full wells, AAA grade cork grip, aluminum rod tube with cloth rod bag

The G Loomis NRX T2S Fly Rods masterfully combine an original design with the industry’s most cutting-edge materials and technology. This provides anglers with greater control and responsiveness than ever before.

It uses Dynamic Recovery Technology to deliver the power, line speed, and loop stability that current fast-action rods are known for without sacrificing “feel” and elegance in the short game.

From the first perch to monstrous deep-sea leviathans, fishing is a pastime that has been endured for many millennia. Fishing spans the gamut from family outings to competition. It is a sport, tradition, and way to put food on the table all wrapped in one.

Unfortunately, many of the rods purchased from generic superstores and sporting goods outlets can be overpriced and underwhelming in their performance.

The best fishing rod for your money can make all the difference when it counts, leaving you with a happy memory and not an empty hook.

Final Thoughts

These are the most expensive fishing rods that were made with a high level of craft. Throughout the process, every move and detail is closely examined. These rods are usually costly because of this.

Whether your budget and preferences lead you to a $900 fishing rod or a $9000 bamboo rod, fly anglers typically agree on one thing, Bamboo rods are second to none in terms of performance.

Nonetheless, they do take some getting used to. There’s no need to adjust if you’re starting with a bamboo rod, so it’s better to start with the best.

This past spring, we used the Wall Tent Shop’s 12’x14’ Wilderness Tent on a turkey hunt. When I hear the word “tent”, my mind naturally thinks lightweight, small dwelling that provides the minimum shelter essential for survival. A wall tent is a completely different story. It is literally a portable cabin. My family, friends, and I were impressed with how easy it was to set up and the ridiculous amount of room for living, sleeping, and storage. It was easily heated with a simple propane burner.

We also set it up for a spring bear hunt. We got smashed by unforeseen snow and spent an entire day riding out the storm. It was fantastic. We had no cell service. No internet. No agenda. I stoked the fire, slept, and stared at the stove for hours. We were warm and dry and comfortable. It was amazing how great it felt to unplug and disengage for the day.

The tent is currently set up in the backyard as a semi-permanent “yard cabin” where my boys can hang out and sleep out whenever they want. It also comes in handy when they have friends come over and want to add a little adventure into the mix.

This fall, we’ll be taking it to elk camp. I have an elk spot that I can barely drive to. Getting a camper back there is impossible. This year, instead of getting up extra early and riding the ruts to the trailhead, we’ll take The Wilderness Wall Tent. That means less wear and tear on the Silverado and easier access to the comforts of camp.

First Impressions

You can’t help but notice the Wall Tent Shop’s emphasis on quality and durability. They have extensively thought through their product. Every option is built for a specific reason. All their wall tents are built with “Army Duck-Double Fill Canvas”. I’m a simple man. All I really care about is strength, durability, and high-quality performance. But if you want the canvas details, here’s a link.

The upper corners of the walls and the roof ridge line (high-wear areas) are reinforced with an extra layer of canvas. This increases the overall life of the tent and protects the ridge from holes and tears especially when using a lodgepole frame.

Some wall tents use grommets for tying guy wires, but a grommet cuts the canvas fibers creating potential weak points. Instead, the Wall Tent Shop sews webbing into the canvas with an attached D-ring as shown below.

Wall Tent Stoves

We’ve used propane burners in the past and they worked great. I have a double burner ready for this fall but for extended camp trips and colder weather, I want a wood stove. The Wall Tent Shop sells a variety of wood stoves available here. Their flat cooking tops would be a game changer. I’m a little jealous. Since my daughter can weld and my dad had a 35 gallon barrel, we decided to build our own. It was cheap and easy to build and it works. If you’re handy or on a budget, give it a try. I found the kit and all the necessary materials at our local hardware store.

Included Features

In addition to what has already been mentioned, each Wilderness Tent has a storm flap on the front and back of the main entrance protecting the YKK zippers from snow, ice, sand, etc. The flap has YKK buckles on both sides which gives you the ability to securely close the front door if the zipper were to become damaged or frozen.

A vinyl sod cloth is attached to the bottom of the walls. The sod cloth tucks inside the tent and creates both an air seal and a moisture barrier. This discourages the canvas walls from wicking ground moisture, and greatly increases the heating efficiency of a stove. You’ll burn less wood.

The stove jack comes standard. A canvas flap covers the chimney hole and can be held shut with Velcro or tied open. The stove jack includes a cut pattern to accommodate larger stove pipe sizes.

Wilderness Tents also come with the option of either a back window or a back door.

Additional Features (Take a Deep breath)

The extras are overwhelming and seemingly limitless. I get lost in the options. You can add doors and windows. You can have a kitchen cupboard, bow rack, gun rack, coat rack, fire mat, aluminum shelves, and a floor. Even add a porch for extra storage or outdoor cooking. They sell “T-angles” for adding a middle leg to the center of the tent if you’re expecting heavy snow loads … and the endless list goes on and on.

Each user will need to think through what options fit his individual needs. There are, however, two options that are essential in my opinion.

You Must Have A Rain Fly

Canvas tents are heavy. Once rain-soaked, they’re nearly impossible to load by yourself. Sewing the extra canvas to reinforce the ridges results in tiny pinholes that could leak. The tarp also helps keep the tent clean from pitch/sap, bird crap, pollen, and whatever else might fall from the sky. Thinking about the sticky-resin-buds that fall from cottonwood trees gives me nightmares. A spark hole in your tarp can easily be taped but a burn hole in the canvas would have to be sewn. In the long run, the UV light from the sun is your worst enemy. Just buy the rain fly!

Screens

If you think that you might use your wall tent in the summer or early fall, then you’ll need airflow and bug protection. My tent has screen windows on three sides. The windows are 30” x 30” with zippers on the sides and Velcro along the top. The screen door is full-sized. D-rings in the corners secure the screen door out of the way when not in use. Airflow without mosquitos is a big deal.

Final Thoughts

There is a nostalgia that comes from hunting out of a wall tent and I like that feeling. It reminds me of my childhood. It reminds me of my roots and I remember where I came from. Those memories help me focus on the things that matter the most. Unfortunatley, memories don’t punch tags and fill freezers. The Wall Tent Shop reminded me that I can bring camper-level-comfort into the back country. The ability to get warm, dry off and rest in comfort makes the hunting trips last longer and sometimes a few more days is all it takes. If that peaks your interest, then I’d encourage you to look into a wall tent.

There are a lot of tips and tricks that come from experience. Too many to include in a review. Join me and others on the Rokslide forum and let’s discuss what we’ve learned. I’ll share more photos after the elk season. Hopefully, we’ll have an elk head leaning against the wall!

Comment on this review or ask Howard questions here.

Also check out Jared’s review.

Sometimes (though not on Maximus) there’s a third set of batteries for high power items such as a bow-thruster or electric windlass.

Wet lead acid

Batteries that have liquid electrolyte sloshing around in them are sometimes referred to as ‘wet’, ‘flooded’ or ‘wet lead acid’ batteries.

To start the engine, boats have a starting or ‘cranking’ battery, like those used in cars, which delivers very high loads for a few seconds.

Only a small portion of the battery’s capacity is used and this is restored by the alternator once the engine is running.

For powering everything else (i.e. chartplotter, lights, fridge, etc.) boats use a domestic, or ‘house’ deep-cycle (or deep-discharge/traction) battery bank which draws a much smaller amount of power over a longer period of time.

It’s important that wet lead acid batteries are stored in a ventilated area. A disadvantage is that they can ‘gas off’ (release hydrogen) if faulty, overcharged or getting old.

Pros: cheap, readily available, lots of choice, starter batteries can be bought in automotive stores. Cons: heavy, can leak, need regular charging, useless once flat, can gas off.

Article continues below…

Wet lead acid – dual/leisure battery

An ‘in-between’ option is the ‘dual’ or leisure battery. A compromise between starting and deep-cycle batteries, these are popular on boats that carry only a single battery, or prefer to have the same type of battery for simpler charging.

Maximus had a leisure battery for starting the engine (an 85Ah Green Power) and a 100Ah deep-cycle Lifeline Battery for powering the rest of electrical equipment.

Both were flat after being left on board for two years and so could not be revived.

Pros: cheap, readily available, lots of choice, dual-purpose starter and domestic. Cons: heavy, can leak, need regular charging, useless once run flat, can gas off.

Sealed lead acid batteries (gel & AGM)

Nobody wants battery acid leaking into the bilge, but there’s a price to pay if you want more durable batteries.

Sealed lead acid batteries are sometimes referred to as VRLA (valve regulated lead acid) and there are two main types – absorbed glass mat (AGM), where the battery plates are protected by fine-stranded glass mats – and gel, where the liquid electrolyte has been converted into a gel.

AGM batteries can be used for both starter and house applications whereas gel batteries are better suited for house applications only.

Both types can withstand many more charge/discharge cycles than conventional deep-discharge batteries – for example, a 7-10 year lifespan rather than a 4-5.

Pros: leak-proof, longer lifespan than wet lead acid, AGM can be dual-purpose starter and domestic. Cons: twice the price of wet lead acid, up to 25% heavier, need regular charging, useless once flat.

Lead carbon batteries

Lead carbon batteries are not widely known. Our electrician had never fitted them, and indeed I hadn’t considered these until I spoke to Victron Energy.

However, they are highly regarded by PBO contributor Paul Sumpner, who fitted Leoch lead carbon batteries to his electric-propulsion narrowboat Old Nick.

Paul worked out his requirements, which were a regular DoD of 50%, year-round usage, a minimum of 48V, 600Ah, zero maintenance, a life cycle of 3,000+ discharges, non-vertical mounting and to be able to survive a regular partial state of discharge. Plus, they couldn’t “completely blow the budget”.

“It became clear that only lead carbon or lithium batteries would be suitable,” he said, and later confirmed he couldn’t be happier with the equipment he chose.

Lead carbon batteries are an advanced type of VRLA battery, which has a positive plate (anode) of lead, but a negative (cathode) plate made of carbon composite.

According to Victron, the advantages are less sulfation, and a lower charge voltage, meaning higher efficiency and less corrosion of the positive plate. Overall, the result should be an improved cycle life.

Pros: leak proof, longer life, less sulfation. Cons: more expensive, can’t be used for starter motor, larger and heavier than AGM or lead acid.

Lithium batteries

Lithium-ion is a broad chemistry of batteries, the most common being LiFePO4 (Lithium Iron Phosphate). They can withstand four or five times the number of cycles compared to most deep-cycle lead acid batteries (4,000+), can go down to a much lower state of charge, and can keep a reasonable level of charge for up to 12 months.

While lead acid batteries, in practice, only allow 30% of rated capacity, the best lithium batteries can be discharged to 70-80% of the rated capacity.

So really, a 100Ah lithium battery is the equivalent to having a 200Ah lead acid battery, only it will usually charge much quicker, is half the weight and a lot smaller.

A word of warning, though. Although lithium batteries can accept fluctuating voltage (13.6V-14.6V) like lead acid batteries, they should not be directly charged from an alternator because voltage spikes could damage them. A dedicated charger and battery management system is a necessity.

Pros: long-lasting, can use 80% of capacity, easier to manage, small, lightweight. Cons: expensive (up to 4 x cost of wet lead acid), boat adaptations required.

Next steps

Having had a brief look at batteries, I called marine surveyor Ben Sutcliffe-Davies. I wondered if there was any possibility of reviving flat batteries.

“I’ll be honest with you, start with new batteries,” he said. “You’re relying on this battery to start the boat. Yes it might pick up, but I guarantee it’ll be like a dying swan when you need it.”

For domestic systems, Ben likes Numax batteries, which he says a lot of the industry use. For the cranker, he said, any automotive battery would do.

“I went down to my local tyre and exhaust place, and just got four heavy-duty deep cycle leisure batteries and one tidy cranker for the engine,” he told me.

Thanks to our Project Boat Supporters

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The antlers on bucks in full velvet have incredible tactile appeal. Every hunter has heard the story of a buddy who harvested a beautiful, trophy-sized buck only to arrive at the taxidermist with a patchy, ragged-looking specimen. Once velvet is off there is no way to reattach it.

That’s right — there’s no way. Not even if you save all the shed velvet and bring it along with your now hard horned set of antlers to the taxidermist. Velvet is like a banana peel. Basically, it’s just a skin, with no real veins running through it. Although some shops offer sprayed-on flocking, the results will likely look too perfect, and unnatural. The flocking process can also run $2.50 per Boone & Crockett inch, so your 200-inch buck suddenly got $500 more expensive to preserve.

Instead, here’s how to preserve the unique characteristics of your buck’s velvet antlers all the way to your taxidermist from a backcountry hunt:

Do Not Touch. Velvet is delicate. In September a buck’s velvet is slick, like a bar of soap, and primed to come off. A buck can rub off all his velvet in 10 minutes; just think what your hands can do if you drag a buck by his antlers. Grab those antlers, pull hard, and you’re likely to end up with your hands full of velvet while the deer stays in the same spot. The oils in your skin will also do two things. First, it will cause the velvet to become nappy and matted, particularly in warm conditions. Second, when it meets the natural oils from the deer velvet, it will make the environment more of a potential breeding ground for bacteria.

Bring rope. Many hunters grab along the base of the antlers to drag a buck after a successful harvest. Grabbing and pulling will puncture the velvet on all the little knobs around the base that give antlers their character. Instead, if you need to move the entire deer, use a rope to wrap around the deer’s neck and base of the skull to drag it with instead of using your hands.

Do Not Rub. Any kind of abrasion will ruin velvet, especially dragging. Continue to avoid all contact with anything that’s potentially abrasive, including your backpack straps when hiking out of backcountry. Instead, strap the skull to your pack, not the antlers themselves.

Wrap it. If for some reason you can’t cape your buck, gently wrap the antlers with your base layer or another piece of spandex material. Wrap them tight and tape down the material with electrical tape. Wrapping before strapping down reduces potential friction. Now you can carry your antlers with straps if needed.

Cushion your buck for the drive. If your hunt is closer to home, you don’t need to follow quite as many steps. Get your deer to your truck using a wheeler or a cart instead of dragging it by the horns. Then secure the head so the antlers don’t come in contact with any surfaces.

Don’t have straps? Put something soft, like a jacket, pillow or sleeping bag, underneath the antlers. This prevents the velvet rubbing off when you rattle down the road or your buddies check out your buck.

Cool and cover. Heat and blood speed the decomposition process. Keep your buck as cool as possible. A shade tree is ideal. Cover the antlers to keep the flies off, but never use a plastic garbage bag. The plastic will turn your velvet into a ruined, smelly mess. Instead, cover the antlers with a deer meat bag to allow for air circulation without any spoilage.

Don’t hang. Antlers in velvet are full of blood that needs to be drained out if you’ll be staying any length of time in the backcountry. Some say to hang the buck upside down by the skull and make pinholes with your knife at the tip of each tine. Blood should then drain out the tips. However, I don’t recommend this method because those small cuts split open the living tissue and are likely to crack when they dry, leaving extra work for your taxidermist to try to repair.

Drain without making a mark. The better drainage method is to get the hide off the skull of the deer by caping it. This process will sever the blood vessels that run outside of the skull between the antlers and the velvet, effectively draining the antlers themselves.

Resist cutting the cape too short; you’ll need from the middle rib forward. Your taxidermist can always cut off what isn’t needed, but can’t make a substantial cape appear from nothing. Then prop the antlers against a tree, base down. The blood will simply drain out of the bottom of the antlers without leaving any marks.

Leave chemicals to the experts. You can get embalming fluid from your taxidermist before your hunt, but in a backcountry situation the last thing you need to worry about is dealing with this highly potent chemical. Embalming fluid is extremely dangerous and requires you to wear double latex gloves and eye protection when using it.

The fluid also demands a syringe and needle to inject the antlers properly. Remember: embalming fluid preserves whatever it touches, so if it gets on your skin, seek emergency medical attention. Not to sound too dramatic, but if embalming fluid gets in your eye, and you’re out of easy ambulance/EMS range, you will most likely lose it.

Be quick. Velvet starts to decompose right from the moment of harvest. Get those antlers and cape to a taxidermist today. Not tomorrow. The quicker your taxidermist can inject your velvet with embalming fluid, the better. This fluid bonds the proteins together and stops decomposition in its tracks. Now your velvet will last for years, no matter how you mount your trophy.

Take care with velvet antlers and you’ll have a beautiful trophy as a way to remember that great hunt. Taxidermists can fix small blemishes with an airbrush and epoxy, but they can only make a deer look as good as when it came in the shop, not better.

A finished velvet buck is an impressive sight. Be sure to take extra care in the field to protect the velvet so you can give the taxidermist a chance to make a breathtaking mount.

The myth

It’s commonly passed around that the peep needs to be circled by the sight. This has been circulated so many times that it’s widely accepted. Sight companies offer rings for their scopes, multi pin brackets, and single pin movers. Often at the pressure of the customers that believe it necessary for the most accurate shooting. The truth is, this age old archery advice is totally incorrect. It’s not harmful, but incorrect nonetheless.

The problem

As the ambient light changes, your view through the peep sight is restricted or opened. In bright direct sunlight the peep view is restricted. The iris of your eye is stopped down to a tiny pin hole making the peep hole appear to be smaller than it is. Shooters trying to ring their scope mistakenly choose a larger hole peep so they can see the perimeter of their scope. This is a problem because the peep runs the show. The smaller the hole, the more accurate your head placement is. If you use a large hole peep you risk larger groups. Merely ringing the scope housing isn’t accurate enough because the scope is too close to your face.

The peep runs the show

You’ve likely moved your peep a tiny amount and noticed how great the effect is on your point of impact. A ⅛” move on the peep at 20 yards can change your point of impact almost 6 inches. Using a ¼” peep to see your housing in bright light will allow you to make a ⅛” mistake with head alignment to the target. This will blow your group size out even if you are shooting well. The peep and its relationship to the target is everything. The peep must be centered with the target, not the housing.

The solution

By using the smallest peep the light will allow, you are looking for contrast between your aiming device and the target. If the light is too low, you lose contrast. Experiment with various peep sizes and go as small as you can before everything grays out and contrast is lost. Rule of thumb, depending on how young your eyes are. Open sun conditions: use a 1/32” or 3/64” peep. Shaded woods or low contrast targets like 3D animals: use a 1/16” or 3/64”. The 1/8” peep for hunting is best. 1/8” transmits all the light your eye can possibly use, so even if it’s really dusky or dark going larger than 1/8” won’t give you any more view. It will just make you miss more.

If you’re in the over 40 crowd

Here’s some extra info for my grown archers. Using a smaller hole peep will make your aiming device more clear and reduce starbursting on your fiber. I have found that no clarifier at all with a smaller hole peep gives me more accuracy than a large hole with a clarifier that blur’s my pin. When your pin is blurry, you lose contrast even if there’s plenty of light. If you must use a clarifier, use the lowest power with the smallest hole you can. That will reduce your pin blur. While hunting in the woods, go ahead and grab a “verifier”, it’s like reading glasses for your peep. The Verifier will allow you to use a big hole for deer hunting light yet still be able to see your pins. You will notice a little less fidelity in the target but finding a balance between hole size and verifier power will get you where you need to be.

Too long didn’t read

Keep your peep hole as small as possible. You only need the peep to be large enough to see contrast between the target and your aiming device. Forget ringing the scope with the peep. Ring the target with the peep. Your pin is in the middle of your scope, so it will align itself even if you can’t see the edges. If you’re using a multi-pin box, ring the target then use the appropriate pin. Be sparing with clarifiers unless they are well made like Hamskea’s premium clarifiers. You could hurt your accuracy with cheap peep lenses that aren’t optically centered.

For more info

Check out my Youtube – www.youtube.com/GeorgeRyals

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