• I tested a very, very well equipped 2020 Ram 1500 Rebel pickup truck, an off-road optimized version of the truck that captured our Car of the Year award in 2019.
• My Rebel had a potent 3.0-liter turbodiesel engine that serves up 260 horsepower but an earthshaking 480 pound-feet of torque.
• My tester also featured a menacing, blacked-out exterior package.
• The Ram 1500 is a great pickup, but the diesel Rebel is something special.
• Visit Business Insider’s homepage for more stories.

Here’s how the sequence usually goes for me when it comes to reviewing full-size pickup trucks. First, I sample the regular gas-powered version, and because I like big pickups, I often end up a happy guy. But then I spend some time with the diesel-engined model, and I forget all about the gas-burner.

Diesel and pickups! Two great tastes that go great together! A beautiful friendship!

Choose your cliché, but the bottom line is that diesel power, for obvious reasons, makes sense for large trucks — especially if you intend to do any sort of serious work, haul heavy loads, or tow more than a modest camper or trailer.

Ram makes a dandy full-size pickup. The Ram 1500 was Business Insider’s 2019 Car of the Year, and it was a vehicle that impressed us mightily when tested on both the East and West Coasts. But the diesel is even better if you can imagine improving on greatness, as I found out when I borrowed the 2020 edition of the pickup, in a handsome “Diamond Black Crystal Pearl-Coat” paint job, for a week over the summer.

Rebel, Rebel … I love you so!

And what a pickup it was! The Base Crew Cab 4×4 was $47,990, but many options — including the “Rebel Level 2” equipment group ($3,000) and a $5,000 diesel motor — brought my as-tested price to $71,305. A tech package that added heated seats and a heated steering wheel also tacked $3,000 on the sticker, and assorted other goodies embellished the Ram by $200 to $500 here and there.

But that’s the usual story full-size pickups, which are best thought of these days as nearly infinitely option-able, yielding some wide price ranges for the manufacturers that sell everything from bare-bones work trucks to luxurious half-tons.

Allow me to explain why I was testing the Ram 1500 in the first place: gardening! We sort of amped- p our summertime gardening game this year and had to make a journey of modest distance to a center in New Jersey that we’d heard about from our gardening underground.

An SUV wasn’t going to cut it; we needed a proper pickup with the proper bed. And as you can see from the photo above, we made good use of it.

The Ram 1500 I tested came with both a tonneau cover, which was easily folded back, and a bed-separator — a great feature that allowed me to divide the box into one area for heavy bags of soil and one for plants. Using the divider to create a spot for the plants close to the cab meant that I could return home at highway speed without worrying about the load shifting, and I didn’t have to employ the Ram 1500’s tie-down points.

The truck also had the useful RamBox “saddlebags,” a pair of lockable storage compartments at the bed’s flanks. I didn’t need them, but the feature does use the interior of the Ram 1500’s body panels to create some additional capacity, where otherwise an owner might be looking at a third-party setup to tote tools or gear.

Trading horsepower for torque, torque, and more torque

The 3.0-liter, turbodiesel V6 makes 260 horsepower but — get this — 480 pound-feet of torque.

That translates into monumental pulling power. The Rebel can tow more than 12,500 pounds, all while putting up some tasty fuel-economy numbers: 21 mpg in the city, 29 on the highway, and 24 combined. (Gas-engined trucks offer a 395-horsepower V8 and a 305-horsepower V6.)

The Ram’s eight-speed automatic handles all of that torque rather gracefully, piping it to the capable four-wheel-drive system. But it doesn’t alter the Rebel diesel’s demeanor, which put me in the mind of a small freight train when I was tooling down the highway.

The truck can go from a standstill to 60 mph in about eight seconds, and when you sum all this up, you see what the Rebel is all about: bold off-roading, an answer to the Ford F-150 Raptor.

The knobby Goodyear tires were a giveaway, but the overall packaging of my Rebel test truck suggested that one could apply the vehicle to a greater variety of tasks than just trail-busting — crammed as it was with infotainment tech, connectivity, premium appointments, and that dashing black paint job.

The blacked-out treatment went further than the paint: the $525 exterior package brought a black grille with black framing, a black Ram badge, and black 18-inch wheels.

As far as off-roading goes, I could point out that black shows dirt, but the Rebel looks so dang cool that I doubt it would stay dirty for long, if ever. This is a pickup that wants to pay frequent visits to the car wash.

Note, however, that there are textured running boards, making getting in and out of the lifted pickup much easier, but also making it possible to scrape mud off your boots before soiling the primo cab.

A high-end interior and a high-end verdict

The all-black exterior theme continues inside the Rebel, with plush front bucket seats and a comfy, capacious rear configuration. A dual-pane sunroof brightens the cabin considerably, but it’s a $1,500 extra.

My test truck was chock full o’ tech, starting with the 8.4-inch central touchscreen running Fiat Chrysler’s underrated Uconnect infotainment system. This setup handles everything from Bluetooth and USB device connectivity to GPS navigation (with USB ports dedicated to charging). I enjoyed the dulcet tones of a 19-speaker Harman-Kardon premium audio system and had Apple CarPlay and Android Auto in reserve.

The Ram 1500 was the best full-size pick we drove, off all the half-tons on the market, in the period from about 2015 until last year, when the new Ram grabbed top prize in our Car of Year competition.

I had no complaints about the gas-engined V8 I tested in 2019, but the diesel V6 was something special. If you aren’t driving fast all the time, you grow to love the succulent surge of torque that an awesome diesel produces, and the visual presentation of the Ram 1500 Rebel intensifies that impression.

Simply put, the Ram 1500 Rebel diesel is addictive to drive and addictive to look at, in a totally badass sort of way. I think it shook up the gardening center on that day I visited — Darth Vader unsettling the ‘burbs.

It’s worth pointing out that although the truck has attitude galore, it also gets the job done. This imitating pickup carried flowers and potting soil home, safely and it style. And that says more about the modern, full-size pickup truck world these days than just about anything else.

Muzzleloaders, like firearms, benefit greatly from load experimentation. That doesn’t mean you’re weighing charges to 1/10-grain accuracy on a digital powder scale. Rather, it implores that you shouldn’t be satiated with the generic, 100-grain/vol. load consisting of two .50 caliber, 50-grain/vol. black powder substitute pellets. The prudent choice is to “work up” loads incrementally, as well as tryout “new-for-you” propellants. Until you do, you’ll never know what your muzzleloader is truly capable of. So, what’s the best option for you and your muzzleloader? Read on.

Black PowderA staple for traditionalists, authentic black powder is an option for the modern muzzleloader hunter, too. Thanks to its simple, albeit sensitive, composition consisting of charcoal, potassium nitrate and sulfur, true black powder is easily ignited, which is why—in its FFFFg size—it’s used for priming flintlocks’ pans. That last ingredient, however, is the reason that black powder produces its infamous “rotten egg” smell (once fired). Black powder is hygroscopic, meaning it will absorb moisture from the air if exposed to it. As such, it’s not the best choice for humid environs or wet conditions. Concerning its sensitivity, black powder is classified as an “explosive,” hence the reason you don’t find it on the shelves of big-box stores or smaller gun shops. It can be easily and inexpensively ordered online, though.

When uniformly measured (volumetrically), premium black powder, such as Swiss, offers excellent shot-to-shot consistency for superb accuracy with respectable velocities. The tradeoff, though, is dirtiness. Black powder is terribly inefficient, leaving much highly corrosive residue remaining after each shot. This must be cleaned in short order, otherwise the muzzleloader will assuredly be ruined. Moreover, subsequent shots without swabbing the bore result in especially difficult loading—made worse with tight-fitting sabots. Cleaning, though, requires no fancy cleaning products; instead, just soap and water, followed by a coating of rust preventative. I favor Ballistol.

Offered in multiple grain sizes, FFg is best suited to the utilitarian, .50 caliber muzzleloader. Popular brands include Swiss, Goex and Goex Olde Eynsford, and Graf & Sons.

Pros: Consistent (when uniformly measured); Accurate; Easy to ignite (works in flintlocks, sidelocks and inlines); Less costly than most black powder replacements.

Cons: More difficult to find; Dirty; Smells awful; Inefficient; Highly corrosive; Hygroscopic.

Black Powder SubstitutesFew inline muzzleloader hunters today venture into the realm of black powder—and for good reason. Black powder substitutes—which are not classified as “explosive,” but rather fast-burning “smokeless powder” (i.e. propellant)—offer many of the benefits of the elder without most of the detractions. These vary depending on the specific product. For example, the original black powder replacement, Pyrodex, gives a boost in external ballistics when compared to identical black powder charges; however, since it contains sulfur, the same post-shot stink is present. Pyrodex is slightly more difficult to ignite than black powder, but it can still be employed in same muzzleloaders. Pyrodex is somewhat hygroscopic, as well as corrosive—don’t clean your muzzleloader in a timely manner and it’ll rust for sure. Soap and water will remove any Pyrodex residue.

While Pyrodex RS continues to occupy a sizable portion of retailers’ shelves, as is especially evident by the heavily discounted prices of the numerous leftovers come the end of hunting season. Many muzzleloader hunters have made the switch to the newer substitutes. Hodgdon Triple-Se7en was the first such new-generation propellant. Not only did Triple-Se7en offer improved external ballistics, but the rotten-egg smell was jettisoned, too; in fact, that was a major marketing point for Hodgdon. It’s still highlighted on the label. Since that propellant debuted, many other powders have emerged. Today, there are several options outside of Hodgdon Triple-Se7en, such as Alliant Black MZ (now discontinued, but still can be found for sale), Accurate BlackHorn 209 and American Pioneer Powder (APP).

Alliant Black MZ is among my favorites, and I’m sad to see it go. Manufactured by APP to Alliant’s specifications, Black MZ has a lot to offer—good efficiency (i.e. external ballistics for a given charge) and shot-to-shot consistency (think accuracy), simple, stink-free, water-soap clean up, easy ignition (can be ignited by my No. 11 percussion caps), it’s non-hygroscopic, has very minimal corrosiveness and is reasonably.

Accurate BlackHorn 209 has many of the same attributes as Alliant Black MZ and then some. Per a given charge, BlackHorn 209 will provide the highest velocities of all black powder replacements. It’s also consistent in granule size for precise measuring, as well as leaves minimal, non-corrosive residue. This eases the cleaning process and negates swabbing between shots. Subsequent loading is easygoing. It’s also minimally hygroscopic, and the shelf life of the product is consistent with smokeless propellants without clumping. But there are a couple things to consider before purchasing BlackHorn 209.

First, your muzzleloader must have a breechplug with an enclosed 209 primer. Most new muzzleloaders do, though. Next, you’ll need to use standard 209 shotshell primers for ignition, forego muzzleloader-specific primers. According to Accurate, also incompatible are No. 11 percussion caps, musket caps and rifle/pistol primers. You cannot exceed a 120-grain charge, either, though you really don’t need to. Oil-based cleaners, such as those used on your modern firearm, are used to clean BlackHorn 209, not water. Lastly, a 10 oz. container of BlackHorn 209 will cost you around 10 dollars more than a full pound of the other black powder replacements. Many muzzleloader shooters and hunters believe the cost is justified.

Pros: Superb external ballistics; Consistent; Accurate; Easy to clean; Low residue; No smell (except Pyrodex); Easier to purchase; Less corrosive (except Pyrodex).

Cons: More expensive; Muzzleloader specific (BlackHorn 209)

Pelletized PowderEase of convenience is what sells pelletized black powder replacements. The process cannot be simpler—drop the pellet(s) in the barrel, firmly seat a bullet atop and then add the ignition source. Done! There’s no powder to measure or spill. Sounds great, right? Sure, but are you getting peak performance from your muzzleloader?

Unlike the aforementioned loose powder, pellets offer minimal load customization. With regard to accuracy, you get what you get—your gun will shine or be “so-so.” Fact is, many muzzleloader hunters are okay with “so-so” performance. By purchasing 30- and 50-grain/vol.-equivalent .50 caliber pellets, you can venture beyond the utilitarian 100-grain/vol. load. But, outside of online outlets, finding those 30-grain/vol., .50 caliber pellets is quite difficult. Loose powder offers the muzzle hunter far better load customization options, and thus performance.

Pelletized powder has many of the same advantages and disadvantages of loose powder. Since ignition on most new inline muzzleloaders is the ubiquitous 209 shotshell primer, lighting off pellets isn’t a problem. But for older No. 11 percussion cap models, such as original, unaltered Knight Rifles, Pyrodex pellets are the best choice. Why? Featuring a ring of black powder on their base, the pellets are easily ignited by No. 11 caps. By using them, though, you’ll be rewarded with the consequences of black powder and Pyrodex outlined earlier.

Choices of pelletized powder include Hodgdon Pyrodex, Triple-Se7en and Triple-Se7en Magnum, IMR White Hots and Alliant’s new Blue-MZ—a replacement for the discontinued Black MZ.

Pros: Same as Above

Cons: Same as Above

As big-game hunting seasons are winding down in most states, it’s time to look ahead to next year. That leaves you plenty of time to experiment. What will be your muzzleloader’s “go juice”?

The Ten Commandments of Firearm Safety

The Ten Commandments of Firearm Safety are stated variously by different organizations and are often presented in different order, but the meaning is consistent and universal, including in Africa. If these rules are followed, a firearm-involved accident is highly unlikely.

1. Treat every firearm as if it’s loaded.
2. Control the direction of your firearm’s muzzle.
3. Be sure of your target and what’s beyond your target.
4. Be sure that the barrel and action are clear of obstructions and that only the proper size ammunition is used.
5. It is not uncommon for termites and other insects to discover that a rifle barrel is an ideal place to build a nest. Take a look through your barrel every day!
6. Unload firearms when not in use.
7. Never point a firearm at anything you do not intend to shoot.
8. Never climb a fence or tree or jump a ditch or log with a loaded firearm.
9. Never shoot a bullet at a flat, hard surface or water.
10. Store firearms and ammunition separately.
11. Avoid alcoholic beverages and drugs before and during shooting.

These commandments rely upon basic common sense. Implied throughout is the reliance on control of the direction the barrel is pointed—and the lack of reliance on the firearm’s mechanical safety. These rules don’t change in Africa. Most professional hunters (PHs) will attest that the most dangerous creature in the African bush is an excited visitor with a firearm!

Four Basic Safety Rules

The International Hunter Education Association (IHEA) reduces the Ten Commandments of Firearm Safety to four basic safety rules. They can be remembered by using the acronym ACTT and the statement “ACTT responsibly around firearms.” ACTT stands for:

1. Assume every firearm is loaded. Consider any firearm that you have not just unloaded to be still loaded, and treat it accordingly.
2. Control the muzzle —point guns in a safe direction. Decide what the safest muzzle direction is, and keep your firearm pointed in that direction. Never point a firearm at yourself or others.
3. Trigger finger —keep your finger off the trigger until ready to fire. The natural instinct when picking up a firearm is to put your finger in the trigger guard. Don’t! This could cause an accidental discharge if the firearm is loaded.
4. Target—be sure of your target and beyond. Never point your firearm at something you do not intend to shoot. Make sure you positively identify what you are shooting at and what lies in front of it and beyond it. Do not use telescopic sights as a substitute for binoculars when identifying persons, animals, or objects.

Universal Drills

Basic firearms safety applies no matter where you are, and is often accomplished by certain basic and universal rituals or drills.

• Checking the chamber. Whenever passing a firearm to another person or getting into a vehicle, the normal etiquette or protocol is to check the chamber to make sure it is empty—likewise when receiving a firearm from another person.
• Negotiating an obstacle. Whether crossing a fence, boulder, log, or stream, or entering a stand or blind, it is almost unavoidable that the firearm’s muzzle can be temporarily out of control and a 100% safe direction cannot be guaranteed. There are two ways to handle the situation.
• The buddy system. Two buddies (or you and your PH) take turns holding the firearms and negotiating the obstacle.
• Unload the firearm! The standard procedure for crossing a fence is to unload the firearm and lay it down at the base of the fence with the muzzle pointing in a safe direction. Cross the fence, and retrieve the firearm. While this is the “school solution” for all obstacles, many will be negotiated simply and quickly by slinging the rifle. The point is that the muzzle is temporarily out of control, especially in the case of a slip or fall, so the chamber should first be unloaded.
• Getting into a vehicle. Customs and laws vary. In some areas, it is specifically illegal to have an uncased firearm in a vehicle. Required or not, it is always a good idea to put a firearm in a soft case while in a vehicle—not only to reduce wear and tear, but also to reduce the chance of a scope changing zero. However, whether a case is used or not, when a firearm is in a vehicle (including a boat or aircraft) or in a saddle scabbard on a horse or ATV, the muzzle is temporarily out of control, so the chamber must be clear. The drill for getting into a vehicle or any similar situation is thus simple: Clear the chamber and check it!

Introduction to the African Elephant

Two Varieties of African Elephants

Most authorities maintain there are two varieties of African elephants: the bush elephant found across most of sub-Saharan Africa and the forest elephant of the forest zone. Today, these are often described as two separate species: Loxodonta africana (the bush elephant) and Loxodonta cyclotis (the forest elephant).

• The primary difference is size. Forest elephants are much smaller, with mature males averaging eight feet at the shoulder, while bush elephant bulls range from 10 to 13 feet or more. Weighing up to 15,000 pounds, the bush elephant is the largest land animal on Earth. But the size difference between the bush and forest elephants is significant enough that the Asian elephant, though smaller than the African bush elephant, is actually larger than the forest elephant.
• Based primarily on size, the two African elephant types have long been recognized and considered subspecies. Separate species classification, though recent and not agreed upon, is based on differences in size as well as appearance. For example, bush elephants typically have four toenails on the front feet and three on the rear, while forest elephants typically have five toenails on the front feet and four on the rear.

Common Behaviors

The African elephant is a browsing animal that must have prodigious amounts of both vegetation and water. A large elephant may consume 900 pounds of foliage daily. Elephants are thus highly destructive feeders and, when overpopulated, quickly devastate their habitat. Elephants will normally water daily and must water every other day. With their huge food intake requirements, they may travel many miles daily between good browse and water sources.

Elephants have extremely keen hearing and an uncanny sense of smell. Their eyesight is not on par with their other senses. But it’s unclear if they really can’t see particularly well or if they simply place greater reliance on their two stronger senses.

Elephants are social animals with a generally matriarchal society. The primary unit is customarily about 10 females, mostly related, led by an older female. Depending on available food and water, family groups may congregate into much larger herds, sometimes into the hundreds, but such gatherings are temporary.

Cows and Bulls

Although elephants are very slow breeders, normal population increase will be about 5% per year. Cows (females) can reproduce at about 10 to 12 years old, with single calves born after a 22-month gestational period. Although sexually mature earlier, bulls (males) are usually neither big enough nor strong enough to compete for mating rights until their mid-20s. By this time, bulls are nearly twice as heavy as females of the same age, but elephants continue to grow slowly throughout their lives until they reach old age.

As young bulls reach puberty, they are ejected from the family group. Cows may come into estrus at any time of the year, at which time bulls will join the group for breeding—with bulls fighting viciously for mating rights.

Cows are exceptionally good and protective mothers and are generally far more aggressive than bulls. However, breeding bulls experience an exaggerated level of testosterone, accompanied by facial gland and penis secretions (the former can be seen while the latter is found in tracks). The increased testosterone causes extreme aggression, a state called musth. Cows with young are always extremely dangerous to approach, but a bull in musth is probably the most dangerous.

Teeth and Tusks

Life expectancy depends primarily on tooth wear. Elephants have four molars, with new molars growing and moving forward replace the front pair as they wear. An elephant will replace its molars four to six times, but when the last set wears out, slow starvation is certain. Average life expectancy in the wild is about 50 years. But in areas with softer soil (such as montane and forest environments), elephants can live to 70 and more.

The tusks are actually incisors that continue to grow throughout an elephant’s life. Although tuskless African elephants occur in both sexes, both males and females typically grow tusks, with cow ivory much smaller and thinner than bull ivory. In the old days, it was said that an elephant may grow a pound of ivory per year, but this is not true. A bull in his 30s—in his prime—may grow several pounds of ivory per year, with growth slowing as he begins to age. To a degree, tusk size is somewhat dependent on body size, but genetics and minerals are probably much more important. While the trunk is the primary instrument in stripping leaves, elephants use their tusks for digging, for breaking branches, and for fighting. So, it isn’t unusual for an elephant to break one or both tusks during its long life.

Threats to African Elephant

Primary threats to the elephant are the illegal ivory trade and loss of habitat to human expansion. In the 1970s and 1980s, commercial poaching reached a peak, and elephant populations fell precipitously in much of Africa. In 1989, the international body Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species (CITES) enacted a near-worldwide ban on ivory trade that blocked many markets and allowed significant recovery for 20 years.

Unfortunately, since 2009, a new wave of poaching has swept much of Africa. Total numbers continent-wide are uncertain and hotly disputed, but it must be accepted that the African elephant is again in crisis. That said, Africa is a big continent. There are several countries, primarily in southern Africa, where elephants have been protected and are being managed well.

Management

Since 1990, CITES has allowed exemptions for sport-hunted ivory for personal use, by quota, from countries that have demonstrated that limited hunting is beneficial to their elephant population. Namibia and South Africa have limited habitat for elephants, with current populations of a few ten thousand each at or near carrying capacity. Zimbabwe is estimated to have a minimum of 70,000 elephants, far above carrying capacity. These countries continue elephant hunting as part of their management, as do Cameroon, Mozambique, Tanzania, and Zambia, all with approval of CITES.

Africa’s largest elephant population is in Botswana, which has 250,000 by recent (2015) survey. Although this number is considered far above the carrying capacity, Botswana does not currently allow elephant hunting.

For American hunters, the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service does not precisely echo CITES in allowing importation of legally sport-hunted ivory. In 2017, import permits were being issued for Namibia and South Africa, with a moratorium on ivory importation from Tanzania and Zimbabwe (permitting for Zimbabwe ivory appears likely to resume in the near future).

Despite increasing pressure from illegal poaching, African countries that continue to hunt elephants consider regulated hunting an important tool because (1) placing value on elephants—through direct fees and local employment—deters poaching; (2) license and permit fees fund anti-poaching efforts; (3) legal safaris in the field deter illegal activities; and (4) with elephants being highly intelligent animals, legal hunting acts as a deterrent against human/elephant conflict (crop-raiding). In areas where elephants are overpopulated, the management imperative for hunting is as strong as for any species in the world.

Equipment for African Elephant Hunting

Legal Requirements

Many African countries have minimum caliber requirements for dangerous game, and hey, if they do, the elephant is always considered dangerous game. Both the legal minimum and common sense say that a .375 is the minimum caliber for elephant. Now, in many countries, this is not stated as .375. It’s stated as the European equivalent, the 9.3mm or .366 caliber, which is very, very minimal for elephant.

Use of handguns and archery tackle is much more restrictive, specifically illegal in many areas but allowed in some. Now whether you prefer the European 9.3mm or the more common .375, or larger and more powerful cartridge, or a big handgun or archery tackle, keep in mind that whether enacted into law or not, minimum standards exist because of conventional wisdom developed over time and based on experience, which is both good and bad.

An elephant bull can be 10 times larger than the average buffalo. So, a .375 is a good sound, sensible minimum. And if the law allows and you choose to deviate from that and use a handgun or archery tackle or black powder, make sure it’s legal in the area where you’re hunting and discuss it with your PH.

Cartridges for Elephant Hunting

The .375 H&H, introduced clear back in 1912, is probably the baseline for hunting elephant. It’s going to be within the legal minimum in all countries, and it’s a cartridge of relatively low recoil that most people can learn to handle. But keep in mind with elephants, shot placement is always more important than raw power. Now faster .375s are going to give you a little bit more penetration and certainly deliver more energy. But keep in mind that as you go up the velocity scale, and with the .375s, recoil goes up.

Now the 9.3s are the European equivalent. Cartridges like the .370 Sako Magnum, also called 9.3x66mm, and the old 9.3x64mm Brenneke, are essentially the equal of the .375. If a 9.3 is legal where you’re hunting, you’re going to do just fine with them.

Low recoil options are actually relatively limited. The old 9.3x62mm and 9.3x74R in double rifles is very, very minimally adequate for elephant. It may be legal in areas where 9.3s are allowed, but you’re pushing the limit. And that’s really as low as you should ever consider going for elephant hunting today.

The several .416s and cartridges like the .450/.400, and .404 Jeffery are extremely effective on elephant. In fact, with higher velocity, many of them will actually penetrate better than the big bores. They’re going to be a lot more effective than the .375 for elephant. But you have to keep in mind that they’re not as versatile for other game and they do produce more recoil.

The true big bores are the traditional choices for hunting elephant. Now with their higher velocity, the .40s may penetrate better, but the big bores are going to deliver a heavier blow. Obviously, as you increase in power, then recoil goes up. So, it’s really important to not use more gun than you can handle comfortably, but there is no such thing as too much gun for elephant. Your professional hunter will almost certainly be armed with a big bore to back you up, if necessary.

Rifles for Elephant Hunting

The bolt action is by far the most common choice for visiting hunters. And there’s bolt actions and suitable calibers at a wide variety of price ranges. This is certainly the least expensive option, and it’s going to be effective. However, if you choose a bolt action, you have to make absolutely certain that all aspects of feeding and functioning are totally reliable. And in your practice sessions, make sure that you practice working that bolt so that you can get off follow-up shots quickly, if you need to.

The double rifle is the preference of many professional hunters because of the instantaneous availability of that second shot, and hey, that applies to visiting hunters as well. Elephant hunting is probably the only situation where the double rifle really is superior to the bolt action simply because of that instantaneous and reliable second shot.

The drawbacks to the double rifle are greatly increased cost and reduced versatility. But in this most specialized of all hunts, versatility shouldn’t be a major consideration. Several modern single shots are chambered for cartridges that are absolutely adequate for elephant. But a single shot isn’t recommended simply because of the frequent requirement for a quick backup shot.

Now as a visiting hunter, you’re not going to be hunting alone, so if you choose a single shot, that’s fine. Your professional hunter is going to be there, but he may well have to back you up simply because no human being can load a single shot fast enough when things go wrong with elephant.

No other action types, whether slide action, semi-auto or lever action, have been factory chambered for cartridges adequate for elephant. Custom work is possible, but you don’t see these in elephant hunting very often.

Bullets for Elephant Hunting

Hey, this is easy, solids only. Non-expanding or solid bullets are designed for deepest penetration on the largest game. And these are the bullets you absolutely have to use. Elephant hunting is purely a game of shot placement and then penetration of the bullet.

The professional hunter and Craig Boddington crouch beside an elephant skull.

Professional Hunter: Craig, there’s no way that any form of soft point, even a premium soft, would enter the brain. It’s just so much bone to travel through that a soft point would slow down and not make the brain.

The two primary choices today are the homogeneous-alloy or all-copper bullet—the solid, solid—and then the traditional jacketed bullet that has a lead core but it’s jacketed with a coating of mild steel, what we call steel-jacketed solids. Both are extremely good. There really aren’t any bad solids on the market today; it’s obviously a very small market. And these are bullets that you trust your life to, and really, all the solids on the market today are very good.

You should use the one that gives you the most confidence. The only limitation is that the homogeneous-alloy bullets have a slightly different pressure curve, may not be a good idea to use them in older double rifles with thin barrel walls. But again, just a matter of confidence. There aren’t any bad solids, but for elephant hunting, you’ve got to choose a solid.

Legal Requirements

Most African countries (but not all) have established legal minimums for “dangerous game,” which always includes elephant. If in doubt, ask your professional hunter (PH)! Although we often state that the .375 is the legal minimum, this is not always true.

In several countries, the actual minimum is the European equivalent, which is 9.3mm (.366-inch). Some countries do not have established legal minimum standards, and in some countries, the rules vary. Zimbabwe, uniquely, has a minimum energy standard, which includes the 9.3x62mm Mauser. But this rule is only applicable on government land and not on private land.

Use of handguns and archery tackle is more restrictive, specifically illegal in many areas but allowed in some. Whether you prefer the European 9.3mm, the more common .375, a larger and more powerful cartridge, a big handgun, or an archery tackle—keep in mind that, whether enacted into law or not, minimum standards exist because of conventional wisdom developed over time and based on experience—both good and bad.

An elephant bull can be 10 times larger than the average buffalo! Regardless of law or convention, a .375-caliber rifle is the recommended minimum for elephant. If you wish to deviate from this and local law allows it, discuss this with your PH, and make certain that he or she is willing and confident to conduct a hunt under such circumstances.

Cartridges for Elephant Hunting

9.3s and .375s. The baseline for elephant hunting is probably the .375 H&H, introduced in 1912. The .375 H&H is adequate for elephant under most conditions and has the advantage of fairly moderate recoil that most shooters can learn to handle. In any discussion of hunting elephant, shot placement is far more important than raw power.

Faster .375s, such as the .375 Weatherby Magnum and Remington Ultra Mag, deliver more energy, but they also deliver more recoil. The .375 Ruger, though slightly faster than the .375 H&H, is a more compact cartridge, chambered in several excellent but inexpensive rifles.

9.3mms, such as the .370 Sako Magnum and 9.3×64, are essentially ballistically identical to the .375 H&H, but they may not be legal if the stated minimum is .375 caliber. Lower-recoil options are few. Even in areas where 9.3s are legal, the 9.3x62mm Mauser and 9.3x74R (for double rifles) should be considered very marginal, especially for hunting larger-bodied bulls.

.40s and .416s. The several .416s and cartridges such as the .450/.400 for double rifles and the .404 Jeffery are much more effective on elephant than the .375s. Shot placement remains critical, but the .375 and equivalent should be considered a bare-bones minimum, with the .40-caliber cartridges as far better choices. Their disadvantages are that they are not as versatile for other game and that they produce more recoil. But they are very good choices for elephant.

Big bores (.450 and larger). The true big bores are the most traditional choices and are effective on elephant. Because of higher velocity, the .40-caliber cartridges penetrate at least as well, but the big bores deliver a heavier blow. Recoil tends to increase along with caliber, so it’s important to avoid using larger calibers than you are comfortable shooting. But there is no such thing as “too much gun” on elephant. The largest calibers are highly specialized, but so is elephant hunting! Your PH will almost certainly be armed with a big bore.

Rifles for Elephant Hunting

Bolt actions. A bolt-action rifle is by far the most common choice for the visiting hunter. There are numerous options in various price ranges chambered to suitable cartridges. But if a bolt action is chosen, its user must make certain all aspects of feeding and functioning are totally reliable. In practice sessions, he or she should concentrate on learning to work the bolt quickly for follow-up shots.

Double rifles. The double-barreled rifle is often the PH’s choice because of the instantaneous availability of a second shot. In elephant hunting, this applies to the visiting hunter as well: Elephant hunting is one of very few situations where the double rifle is clearly superior to the bolt action—purely because of that instant availability of a second shot. The double rifle’s drawbacks are higher cost and reduced versatility, but in this most specialized of all hunts, versatility should not be a consideration.

Single shots. Several modern single shots are chambered in suitable cartridges for elephant. Because of the frequent requirement for a fast second shot, single shots are not recommended for elephant hunting. But they can be used with the understanding that the visiting hunter will not be alone and may have to rely on the PH for necessary backup.

Other action types. No other action types (slide action, semi-automatic, lever action) have been factory chambered for cartridges adequate for elephant, although custom work is possible.

Bullets for Elephant Hunting

Solids only! Non-expanding solid bullets are designed for the deepest penetration on the largest game. Only high-quality non-expanding bullets are suitable for elephant. Choices usually fall between homogeneous copper alloy bullets and traditional lead-core bullets jacketed with mild steel overlain with copper (steel-jacketed solids). Both bullet types are effective.

Because of their highly specialized and relatively limited use, there are no “bad” solids in production today. However, homogeneous-alloy solids have a different pressure curve, so they are not recommended for older double rifles with thin barrel walls. Because of distance and size of target, extreme accuracy is not a requirement. The primary criterion in the choice is the bullet that gives you the most confidence.

Scopes and Sights for Elephant Hunting

Optical or open?Elephant hunting is one of the few situations in the entire hunting world where iron sights are superior to telescopic sights. Here are reasons why iron sights are superior: Ranges are very close and the target is very large, but proper shot placement within that large target remains essential. The use of a magnifying sight runs the risk of seeing nothing but a wall of gray at very close range. Also, telescopic sights tend to create tunnel vision. The greatest danger in elephant hunting may not be from the target elephant but from unseen elephants nearby, so peripheral vision is important.

Ideal iron sights for elephant.Either aperture or traditional open sights may be used, but it’s important that they be extremely sturdy. Do not assume that iron sights are automatically stronger than optical sights. Also, if iron sights are chosen, do not assume that you can simply pick up the rifle and use them well enough. Practice is required!

Ideal scopes for elephant.Because of familiarity with scopes or visual acuity, scopes can be used if there are issues that preclude use of iron sights. But in elephant hunting, magnification is dangerous and too much magnification can be deadly. Low-range variables with a low setting of 1X (meaning no magnification) are ideal, and a low setting of 2X is probably the maximum that should be considered. Lighted reticles greatly speed aiming and assist in shot placement.

Optical options.Traditional open sights (notch or V rear, bead or blade front) require the eye to focus in three focal planes: rear sight, front sight, and target. This becomes increasingly difficult as range increases and greater precision is required. Also, open sights become more difficult for most people as middle age approaches and the eye becomes less flexible. The aperture, or peep, sight is an iron sight, but it is actually an optical sight in that the eye naturally centers the front sight in the aperture or circular opening of the rear sight. Thus, aperture sights require the eye to focus in just two focal planes: front sight and target. Most shooters can effectively use aperture sights for some time after open sights are completely “fuzzed out.” A disadvantage is that, in low light, all iron sights—open and aperture—quickly become hard to see. But an aperture sight is a valid option on an elephant rifle.

• Another extremely sound option is the reflex or red-dot sight. This is a non-magnifying sight that projects or reflects a red dot as the aiming point. Actual dots may be yellow, green, or blue. But on elephant, a red dot is probably the most visible. The reflex sight, like a scope, allows the eye to operate in one focal plane. As with a scope reticle, the eye simply superimposes the dot on the aiming point. All iron sights and reflex sights encourage shooting with both eyes open, thus maintaining the peripheral vision that can be critical in elephant hunting.

Scope mounts.While any mechanical device can fail, the scope mount is probably the weakest link. Recoil is the great enemy to both scopes and mounts, so strong and rugged mounts must be chosen and must be assembled properly in accordance with the manufacturer’s directions. Modern detachable mounts are adequately strong. But even if iron sights are present on the rifle, make sure you have another option in case there is scope failure or a need to go into extremely thick cover. That said, it has been proven that low-powered scopes and reflex sights are faster to use than any iron sights, even at very close range. In elephant hunting, shooting distances are usually very close. This is a situation where a hunter might consider removing a scope in favor of iron sights before concluding a stalk but only if the alternate sights are properly zeroed and he or she is completely familiar with them.

Quality.Both rifles and scopes take serious beatings in Africa, constantly bouncing over rough roads. Scopes should be rugged, and the best way to ensure that is to use one of the many high-quality brands and to avoid the most inexpensive scopes.

Protection.Dust is a major issue in Africa. Bring a scope cover or lens caps. Leave it on your scope in the vehicle, and remove it when you commence a stalk. Using a soft gun case in vehicles will also save wear and tear on the scope as well as the rifle.

Handguns, Muzzleloaders, and Archery Tackle

Handguns, muzzleloaders, and archery tackle are legal in some areas. Elephants have been taken by the most imaginable alternative methods. Equipment requirements for these methods of take are highly specialized. (Remember that an elephant may be 10 times the size of a buffalo bull!) If alternative methods are desired, this must be discussed with and cleared by your outfitter and/or PH, preferably a person who has previous experience with the type of method you wish to use.

Hunting success is never assured, but the choice of alternative methods of take renders success more difficult. This is not a problem for dedicated handgun, muzzleloader, and archery hunters, but it must be understood. Also, the PH is morally and legally responsible for the safety of the entire party. If the PH deems it essential to shoot in order to prevent the escape of a wounded animal and avoid a dangerous follow-up, then that’s a judgment call he or she must be allowed to make. Obviously, when equipment of marginal power and penetration are used, it is more likely that the PH will be required to fire backup shots.

The Professional Hunter’s Greatest Concern

While we all think about Africa’s dangerous animals and snakes, most professional hunters (PHs) and guides worldwide worry most about strangers with firearms. Statistically, nearly as many PHs and trackers are injured by accidental gunshot wounds as by dangerous animals.

Range Day

One of the first events on any safari or guided hunt is to go “check zero.” Some PHs are astute “gun guys,” but many are not. Either way, they will endeavor to get you as close to the animals they hunt as circumstances (terrain, vegetation, etc.) allow. Long-range shooting on elephants is out of the question, but the shot may be standing unsupported at close range or on shooting sticks at very medium range. PHs have a vested interest in making certain your firearms have survived the journey and are reasonably in zero, but they probably don’t care as much as you do that your zero is “perfect.” At the ranges elephants are taken, an inch or two off at 100 yards makes very little difference. Zero does need to be checked, but the purpose of that range day is actually threefold. The PH and his or her team—including the trackers—want not only to ensure that the rifle hasn’t shifted during travel but also to evaluate your shooting ability and your gun handling safety.

Every day is “qual day.” In the U.S. military, an oft-used saying is “every day is qualification or ‘qual’ day.” Range day is like qualification day, and it’s not an exam you cram for. Basic gun handling safety must be practiced all the time, and it matters to your safari. The way you shoot and handle your firearm on range day has much to do with the way your PH and his or her team will conduct the safari—how they will try to set up your shots, what shots they will recommend (or in fact allow) you to take, and how much time they will have to devote to watching your gun handling when they should instead be focused on finding game and orchestrating stalks. Safe gun handling starts at home on your range, but it continues on range day and must be constant throughout.

Shooting Off of Sticks

In African hunting, three-legged shooting sticks are almost universal. There are several reasons for this.

• They get you up off the ground. Low vegetation often precludes shooting positions commonly used elsewhere (such as prone, sitting, and kneeling) because the animal is often obscured.
• Even when a low position is possible, everything in Africa has thorns, and biting ants are a common pest in many areas. Shooting standing off sticks solves the problem.
• Sticks are ideal in the African situation. The lead tracker often carries them. During a deliberate stalk, the PH usually takes the sticks and the lead. But if an animal is suddenly spotted or encountered within shooting range, the lead tracker will customarily set up the sticks and fade to one side. The PH comes up to the other side to evaluate the animal. Your job as the hunter is to step forward, avoiding sudden movements, get the rifle on the sticks, and be prepared to shoot if the PH gives the go-ahead.

Shooting Sticks Technique

Shooting sticks require practice! It takes a bit of work to become comfortable and familiar with shooting sticks. The two primary secrets are:

• Learn the right height for you!Usually, it’s about the level of the top shirt button, so you can lean slightly forward into the sticks.
• Placement of your supporting hand.Never rest the barrel directly on the junction of the sticks (or anything else). The ideal is to grasp both the fore-end of your rifle and the sticks, tying them together. Not everyone has large enough hands to do this, so you have to find what works for you. This is another exam you can’t cram for! Don’t let range day be the first time you’ve ever used sticks. Make your own or get a commercial set, and practice with it on your own range. Then you can not only demonstrate your ability but also show your PH and your trackers exactly how you like the sticks set up.

Practice does make perfect! Sticks are not a perfect solution; slight horizontal wobble is almost unavoidable. However, with practice, most shooters can become adequately steady for perhaps 150-yard shots, certainly covering almost all shots at elephants.

Steady and Steadier

With shots at elephants, the target is large and the range is close. The shot must be placed well, but speed is generally more important than precision. Practice on your range until you can consistently hit a pie plate-sized target off sticks at 50 yards and unsupported standing at 25 yards. That should prepare you for most shots at elephants.

Loaded or Unloaded?

As in all things, listen to your PH, and follow his or her directions! Typically, the rifle will be carried with cartridges in the magazine but with the chamber unloaded until the PH directs. The PH will walk ahead of you, and in areas where dangerous game might be present, his or her rifle will usually be fully loaded and ready. Yours doesn’t need to be until you are “action imminent.” There is very little imminent danger while tracking elephant. So, there is usually no reason for the chamber to be loaded until an actual stalk begins.

The basic rule is that the chamber should not be loaded unless you can absolutely control the direction of the muzzle. This means that if you are carrying the rifle slung over your shoulder, the chamber should be clear. In areas where dangerous game is present, most PHs don’t use rifle slings; they carry their rifles in their hands, and the rifles are always ready.

Most sport hunters do use slings, and that’s fine. But a fully loaded rifle should not be slung because it is impossible to control the muzzle in the case of a slip or fall, and many mechanical safeties can be brushed off by clothing while a rifle is slung. If in doubt, never hesitate to ask your PH if you should chamber a round.

Mechanical Safeties

The safety on your rifle is not a substitute for safe gun handling but serves as a backup for momentary lapses. Even if you are carrying your rifle at “port arms” ready, you may briefly lose control of the muzzle direction if you slip or stumble. But when glassing and tracking, whether carrying the rifle casually or slung, the muzzle is not under tight control, so the chamber should be clear.

Whether loaded or unloaded, the muzzle must be pointed in a safe direction. When the chamber is loaded, check the mechanical safety constantly to make sure it is engaged. African hunting is especially problematic for gun handling safety because it is normal for you, your PH, and your trackers to walk single file, and you as the hunter will be well back in the line. No matter how you carry your rifle and how often you check your safety, focus on keeping the muzzle in a safe direction: UP, DOWN, or SIDEWAYS.

The “African Carry”

As so often seen in photos and on television, it is very common in Africa to carry the rifle with the action balanced over one shoulder, butt to the rear, muzzle forward and grasped and controlled by one hand. This is not in itself unsafe, as the hand controls the direction of the muzzle.

In order to understand the “African carry,” it’s useful to know where it comes from. In the old days when trackers also commonly served as “gunbearers,” the normal situation was for the gunbearer to walk ahead—rifle balanced on one shoulder, muzzle forward, butt to the rear. When game was encountered, the hunter needed only to reach forward, grasp the pistolgrip, and take the rifle, quickly and efficiently.

Today, almost all African hunters—professional and amateur—carry their own rifles. The “African carry” persists because few PHs use slings, and the muzzle-forward carry is very comfortable (especially with heavy double rifles, with flat action bottoms and broad muzzles to grasp). The obvious problem is the muzzle points forward. Thus, when walking in line, it is almost inevitable that the person carrying rifle will “sweep” the person walking ahead. If the rifle is unloaded, this is merely unsafe and a display of terrible manners. If the rifle is loaded, the “African carry” is potentially deadly. It is not recommended, but it is a very comfortable way to carry a rifle, especially on long, hot tracking hunts. If employed, it is essential to concentrate constantly on muzzle control. Keep the barrel offset well to the side and away from the people walking ahead.

Evaluating the Elephant

Listen to your PH. Hey, that’s the first and cardinal rule in all African hunting, and it’s equally important with elephant hunting. Hey, it’s your animal, but you must never shoot until the PH gives the go-ahead, and you have to be absolutely certain that you and your professional hunter are looking at the same animal.

Professional Hunter: Hit him.

A hunter fires her rifle at an elephant.

Professional Hunter: Again.

The professional hunter and hunter fire follow-up shots at the elephant.

Judging Elephants

This is your PH’s job, not yours.

The professional hunter and Craig Boddington discuss an elephant they have just observed.

Professional Hunter: Brilliant.

Craig Boddington:

Professional Hunter: Beautiful elephant.

Craig Boddington:

Professional Hunter: The guy’s better than the one yesterday.

Craig Boddington: Yes.

Professional Hunter: He’s in the middle 60s.

Craig Boddington:Yes.

Professional Hunter: You can see how thick he is.

Craig Boddington: Oh, it’s beautiful.

Professional Hunter: That elephant will probably have about 29 to 30 inches in his head. He’s got a monster head.

Craig Boddington: Huge.

Professional Hunter: Absolutely monster head.

Craig Boddington: Yeah.

With experience, PHs can become pretty good at it, but judging the weight of ivory is probably the most difficult and frustrating trophy judgment in the world. This is because a major portion of the tusk is concealed within the skull, and the actual weight depends a lot on the size of the nerve.

Hunters discuss an elephant near a waterhole.

Hunter 1: Oh, lovely, thick ivory.

Hunter 2: Oh, he’s beautiful.

Hunter 1: What a great elephant.

Hunter 2: That is a great elephant.

Some elephants have larger nerve cavities than others. Your PH will do the best job possible of calling the ivory, but the ultimate decision is up to you.

The professional hunter and Craig Boddington each hold up an elephant tusk.

Professional Hunter: Generally, what you look at is the girth of the ivory at the lip, OK? And let’s say, for instance, this ivory is 15 inches at the lip. We then take an assessment of what is actually showing, and in this case, there might be 3 feet of ivory showing. So, you multiply the 3 by the 15, that will give you 45 pounds. Now, that would be if the ivory was solid. We then have the nerve. And the nerve can vary as much as from 5 to 10% of weight lost to the nerve, depending on the age of the elephant.

This elephant is a sort of middle-aged elephant, and you would probably be looking at 7%, maybe 8%, even up to 10%. So, if you take that 45 pounds, less 10%, it would come to around about 40 pounds, 41, 42 pounds, which is exactly what this elephant is.

Craig Boddington That’s exactly what he is.

Professional Hunter: And that’s pretty much how we assess the weight of tusk in the elephant.

With elephant hunting today, there may be specific requirements. In some cases, there are legal minimums, which may be expressed as either tusk length or weight. And in some areas, there are legal maximums enforced to protect genetics for large tusks. Today, with elephant hunting an important management tool in overpopulated areas, there are also trophy hunts in reverse, where tuskless elephants, non-trophy bulls, and even females may be targeted.

Regardless of what type of elephant you’re looking for or have on license, the actual hunt’s much the same because you and your PH are going to have to get very close to make sure the chosen animal meets the requirements.

Trophy Quality

One of the best and most current references is Safari Club International’s record book, available online at scirecordbook.org. With elephants, its primary value is its currency, showing where record-class elephants are being taken today. With elephants, it’s extremely important to research the area you plan to hunt and establish reasonable goals. Monster tuskers can appear almost anywhere, but at the cost of an elephant safari today, it may be foolish to pass a bull that’s average and acceptable for the area and continue looking for an animal that may not exist. Once again, listen to your PH.

Craig Boddington fires his rifle at an elephant.

Professional Hunter: Look at that.

Craig Boddington: Oh, that’s beautiful.

Professional Hunter: He’s 20 inches at the lip.

Craig Boddington: Oh my god. That’s beautiful. Fantastic.

Professional Hunter: He’s absolutely beautiful.

Craig Boddington: Fantastic.

Hunters: Whoa. Whoa.

Professional Hunter: Now, that other tusk is just—

Craig Boddington: The other tusk is unbelievable, absolutely. It’s heavier than I thought, heavier than you thought.

Professional Hunter: That left tusk is going to hit 70.

Measuring

Although the record books are excellent references, try to avoid record book fever. Elephants are measured and enter the record book based on tusk weight. However, your professional hunter is generally going to evaluate the elephant based on tusk length, meaning the length of the exposed tusk at the lip, understanding that a whole lot of that tusk lies buried deep in the skull.

Once you’ve taken your elephant, if possible, you should get accurate tusk weights before you leave camp, but at a minimum, take measurements. Measure the total length of the tusk. Measure from the lip to the tip, and then get the circumference at the widest point. You should record those just for future reference.

Listen to Your Professional Hunter

Listening to your professional hunter (PH) is the first and most cardinal rule of African hunting, and it is even more important with all dangerous game. It is essential that you never shoot until your PH gives the go-ahead. But even when he or she does, it’s still your shot and your animal. So, don’t take a shot unless you are comfortable, steady, confident, and certain that you and your PH are looking at the same animal.

Judging Elephants

This is your PH’s job, not yours. With experience, PHs can become pretty good at it, but judging the weight of ivory is probably the most difficult and frustrating trophy judgment in the world. This is because a major portion of the tusk is concealed within the skull and the actual weight depends a lot on the size of the nerve; some elephants have larger nerve cavities than others. Your PH will do the best job possible of “calling the ivory,” but ultimate decision is up to you.

With elephant hunting today, there may be specific requirements. In some cases, there are legal minimums (which may be expressed as either tusk length or weight). And in some areas, there are legal maximums that are enforced to protect genetics for large tusks. Today, with elephant hunting being an important management tool in overpopulated areas, there are “trophy hunts in reverse.” These hunts may target tuskless elephants, non-trophy bulls, and even females. Regardless of what type of elephant you are looking for or have “on license,” the actual hunt is much the same—because you and your PH are going to have to get very close to make sure the chosen animal meets the requirements.

Trophy Quality

One of the best and most complete references is Safari Club International’s record book, available online (www.scirecordbook.org). With elephants, the primary value is its currency, showing where “record class” elephants are being taken today. With elephants, it is extremely important to research the area you plan to hunt and to establish reasonable goals. Monster tuskers can appear almost anywhere. But at the cost of an elephant safari today, it may be foolish to pass a bull that is average and acceptable for the area and to continue looking for an animal that may not exist. Listen to your PH!

Measuring

Although record books are excellent references, try to avoid “record book fever.” Elephant trophies go into the record books based on tusk weight. However, most PHs judge ivory by estimating the length of the tusk showing beyond the lip and the circumference of the tusk. If possible, you should get accurate tusk weights before you leave camp. But for future reference, it’s a good idea to take measurements: outside the lip, total length, and circumference at the lip.

In the Group

Lone elephant bulls are frequently encountered, but bachelor groups of three to six are probably most common. When hunting bulls, most PHs avoid cow herds because of the danger. But since elephants may breed throughout the year, a mature bull could be found in a herd at any time. When hunting cow elephants, it is necessary to penetrate the herds to make sure a chosen animal doesn’t have a calf at heel.

It is essential to be absolutely certain you are focusing on the same animal as your PH. Shooting the wrong elephant has been done, and it is a horrible mistake! The first and cardinal rule applies: Listen to your PH. It is essential that you never shoot until your PH gives the go-ahead. But even when he or she does, it’s still your shot and your elephant. So, don’t take the shot unless you are comfortable, steady, confident, and certain you and your PH are looking at the same animal.

Stages of Elephant Hunting—Locating Elephants and the Approach

Most elephant hunts have four phases: locating elephants, the approach, selecting the animal, and taking the shot.

Locating Elephants: Tracking

Elephants are usually located by tracking or glassing. Tracking elephants is one of the most traditional and interesting of all African hunts. And it’s pure magic to watch the African trackers do their work.

Despite their great weight, elephants are actually more difficult to track than buffalo because their feet have pads rather than hooves. So, elephant tracking is advanced tracking that only the most skilled trackers can do well. It starts with a search for fresh tracks, which can mean days of covering ground, usually done by a combination of driving and walking. Fresh tracks will often be found crossing a road or track. And water sources are often critical.

It may take a short time on the track, but by examining tracks, dung, and signs of feeding, African trackers can determine the age of tracks. This is critical information, but it depends on the time of day. Early in the morning, it’s perfectly acceptable to follow tracks made during the night, even 12 hours earlier.

A hunter investigates an elephant track.

Craig Boddington: An elephant hunt always starts with finding a good track. We’ve got a good one here. He’s worn in the back. It’s fresh. It’s from this morning. It’s about 7 o’clock right now, just the perfect time to find an elephant track.

Ivan is going to measure it. But we don’t really need to measure this track. We know that this is an older bull because he’s worn. And this is one we’re going to follow.

Elephants can cover many miles in a day, but usually, alternately feed and rest during the night. In the early morning, they’ll usually start to move toward heavy cover, where they’ll rest through the heat of the day. Knowledge of the area is, thus, important to evaluating the feasibility of following tracks, but an elephant will go where it goes. So, one never knows at the outset where and how far a track might lead.

Age of a track is, thus, extremely critical in evaluating whether or not to follow, but so is the track itself. Since mature bulls are nearly twice the size of cows, it’s very easy to determine bull tracks. Size of elephants vary regionally. So, you’re looking for a large track for the area you’re hunting. There are also indicators of age that fine soil will offer, such as depth of corrugations and sole wear.

The professional hunter points at an elephant track.

Professional Hunter: You see no smoothness on the track.

Craig Boddington: No, none whatsoever.

Professional Hunter: None whatsoever. And if you look here, if you look at the big calluses, you can see there’s no smoothness.

Craig Boddington: No smoothness. None whatsoever.

Professional Hunter: So, the baby skin is disappearing. And it’s getting more mature. And then the calluses get even bigger and bigger and bigger. And it just shows you the size of the body. And if you follow a track like that, probably you will end up with mature bull. So, the moment there’s any smoothness, you just walk away from it. It’s going to take you for a long walk.

None of these indicators say anything about size of tusks. The only way to determine size of tusks is track up the elephant and take a look.

Locating Elephants: Glassing

In more open or hilly country, elephants are often spotted simply by glassing. This is common in Namibia. It’s common in Botswana. It’s also common in hilly country in Zimbabwe.

If elephants are spotted at a distance then, you may have to circle the wind, where you may be able to make a direct approach. But the approach begins once elephants are spotted.

The Approach

The elephant hunt really starts almost at the end of the track. This may mean the sign is very fresh. Experienced PHs and trackers develop almost a sixth sense as to when elephants are near. Because of timing and the elephant’s habit of seeking thick cover at midday, auditory clues are actually the most likely—a stick breaking as elephants feed, a trumpet from a paranoid cow, the soft belly rumbling of undisturbed elephants, or the much softer swishing sound of the great ears fanning.

Following tracks is fairly straightforward. Although if the wind is unfavorable, experienced trackers will often deliberately leave the tracks and try to circle the wind. But now, with elephants nearby, it’s absolutely essential to get the wind right.

Most trackers carry ash bags, cloth sacks filled with fine ash, that when shaken will show wind direction. This is usually the time to load the chamber of your rifle. Don’t hesitate to ask your PH if you should load up. But make sure your safety is engaged, and pay close attention to keeping your muzzle in a safe direction.

From this point, movement will be much slower and has to be as quiet as possible. Depending on the cover, you may be able to walk upright or you may need to crouch. Crawling or butt scooting is possible, but rare with elephants.

Follow your PH’s lead, and concentrate on stepping as quietly as possible.

How to Hunt African Elephant

Most elephant hunts have four phases: locating elephants, the approach, selecting the elephant, and taking the shot. Depending on the circumstances, elephants are generally located by tracking or glassing.

Hunting Techniques for Locating Elephant

Tracking

Tracking elephants is one of the most traditional and interesting of all African hunts, and it is pure magic to watch African trackers to their work. Despite their great weight, elephants are actually more difficult to track than buffalo because their feet have pads rather than hooves. So, elephant tracking is advanced tracking that only the most skilled trackers can do well.

It starts with a search for fresh tracks, which can mean days of covering ground, usually done by a combination of driving and walking. Fresh tracks will often be found crossing a road or track, and water sources are often critical. It may take a short time on the track. But by examining tracks, dung, and signs of feeding, African trackers can determine the age of tracks. This is critical information.

Successful tracking depends on the time of day. Early in the morning, it is perfectly acceptable to follow tracks made during the night, even 12 hours earlier. Elephants can cover many miles in a day, but they usually alternately feed and rest during the night. In the early morning, they will usually start to move toward heavy cover, where they will rest through the heat of the day. Knowledge of the area is thus important to evaluating the feasibility of following tracks. But an elephant will go where it goes, so one never knows at the outset where and how far a track might lead.

Age of a track is thus extremely critical in evaluating whether or not to follow, but so is the track itself. Because mature bulls are nearly twice the size of cows, it is very easy to determine bull tracks. Size of elephants vary regionally, so you’re looking for a large track for the area you are hunting. There are also indicators of age that fine soil will offer, such as depth of corrugations and sole wear. None of these indicators say anything about size of tusks. The only way to determine that is to track up the elephant and get a close look!

Glassing

In more open or hilly country, elephants are sometimes located by glassing. This is common in both Botswana and Caprivi, where elephants are extremely plentiful and the bush conditions allow it, and in hilly country in Zimbabwe and elsewhere. Depending on wind, you might circle to intercept or make a direct approach once elephants are located.

The Approach

The elephant hunt really starts almost at the end of the track. This may mean the sign is very fresh. Experienced PHs and trackers develop almost a sixth sense as to when elephants are near. Because of timing and the elephants’ habit of seeking thick cover at midday, auditory clues are the signs you will most likely encounter: a stick breaking as elephants feed, a trumpet from a paranoid cow, the soft belly rumbling of undisturbed elephants, or the much softer swishing sound of the great ears fanning.

Following tracks is fairly straightforward. Although if the wind is unfavorable, experienced trackers will often deliberately leave the tracks and try to circle the wind. But now, with elephants nearby, it is absolutely essential to get the wind right. Most trackers carry ash bags—cloth sacks filled with fine ash—that will show wind direction when shaken. This is usually the time to load the chamber of your rifle. Don’t hesitate to ask your PH if you should “load up.” But make sure your safety is engaged, and pay close attention to keeping your muzzle in a safe direction.

From this point, movement will be much slower and must be as quiet as possible. Depending on the cover, you may be able to walk upright, or you may need to crouch. Crawling or butt-scooting is possible but rare with elephants. Follow your PH’s lead, and concentrate on stepping as quietly as possible.

Stages of Elephant Hunting—Selecting the Elephant

Selecting the Elephant

This is probably the most exciting phase of any elephant hunt. At this point, you’re probably very close. Perhaps closer than you ever expected to be from a wild elephant. But you’ll be shocked at how well elephants blend into cover and how little cover it takes for an elephant to hide almost completely. Whether you’re looking for a worthy bull or a tuskless cow, you must now find out.

Often, you have to go very close then retreat and circle back to look at all the individuals in a group. This phase often happens at midday when African winds are swirling and unstable. So, the trackers are paying close attention to the wind while the PH studies the herd.

Hunters observe an elephant that is very close to them.

Professional Hunter: Yeah, he’s very inquisitive. It’s fine, no problem.

Hunter: Way too smart.

Professional Hunter: He’s not actually feeding there. He’s looking at us. He’s pretending to eat. That’s something that he put in his mouth is called crotalaria. They don’t normally eat that. This is called displacement behavior, where what he’s doing is he’s pretending that he wanted to eat that, but actually he’s checking us out. See how wide open his eyes are? If he was feeding, his eyes would be half shut. And he’s just listening to us talking. If I talk in a proper voice, he’ll probably flare up a little bit. He might come in a step or two, but then he’ll back off.

There we go. That’s fine. He’s going to back off. Now, watch. Back off, big guy. Back off. Back off. No, no, don’t worry. Back off. Back off, big guy. Back off. Back off. Back off. Back off.

The elephant leaves. The hunters laugh in relief.

Professional Hunter: That’s fun stuff, isn’t it?

Not every group or herd will contain a suitable animal. But if you get into a group of elephants and you manage to see each and every one and determine that there’s nothing in there you’re looking for, hey, you’ve won on that day.

The professional hunter and Craig Boddington discuss an elephant they have just observed.

Professional Hunter: Nice elephant.

Craig Boddington: Beautiful.

Professional Hunter: Anywhere else probably.

Craig Boddington: Anywhere else.

Professional Hunter: The champagne cork would have been gone.

Craig Boddington: We’re not anywhere else.

Professional Hunter: No, that’s true.

Craig Boddington: This is the kind of bull we’re seeing. What a fantastic experience.

The Final Stalk

Depending on the range, you may be in a shooting position while you’re evaluating the elephants. But even a small group of four or five bachelor bulls is likely to be spread out whether resting or feeding. Even if you see an acceptable bull, most PHs will want to look at the entire group, making sure there isn’t a monster being overlooked.

So often you’ll have to do some creeping and sneaking to get into position. You’re excited and a little bit scared. This is the time when firearms safety habits become critical. Your chamber will certainly be loaded by now, but check it one last time. Check the power ring on your scope too. Depending on the terrain, you may want some magnification or not, but make sure it’s where you want it.

As you’re creeping and sneaking, check your safety repeatedly. Keep your fingers away from the trigger guard, concentrate on keeping your muzzle in a safe direction, and follow your PH’s lead. If a final approach is needed, it will usually be just you and the PH. The tracker is staying back to reduce noise and movement.

Follow your PH’s lead, and be very, very careful where you step. The PH will probably carry the shooting sticks. And if circumstances dictate, he might be able to set them up. But as we’ve discussed earlier with elephants, be prepared for that standing unsupported shot and expect it to be very close.

Selecting the Elephant

This is perhaps the most exciting phase of any elephant hunt! At this point, you are probably very close—perhaps closer than you ever expected to be from a wild elephant. But you will be shocked at how well elephants blend into cover and how little cover it takes for an elephant to hide almost completely!

Whether you’re looking for a worthy bull or a tuskless cow, you must now find out. Often, you have to go very close, then retreat, and circle back to look at all the individuals in a group. This phase often happens at midday, when African winds are often swirling and unstable. So, the trackers are paying close attention to the wind while the PH studies the herd. Not every group or herd will contain a suitable animal. But if you actually manage to see, evaluate, and eliminate all the animals in the group, then on that day, you’ve won.

Stand Up and Shoot

Your PH’s default method will almost always be to set up the shooting sticks, but this requires both time and motion. There are many situations with elephants when your stalk carries you so close that the extra movement necessary to set up the sticks is almost certain to spook the animal.

With elephant hunting—perhaps more so than any other African hunting—it is essential that you can make an accurate shot from an unsupported standing position. This is another exam that cannot be crammed for. Practice shooting standing on your range. Again, pie-plate accuracy at just 25 yards is good enough. Shot placement is critical on elephant, but beyond 25 yards is actually a long shot on elephant. If such a shot is necessary, there should be time to set up sticks. For the close-range encounter, practice so that you can raise the rifle, snicking the safety as you raise it, find the sight picture quickly, and hit the pie plate.

Closing on Elephant

In the final moments of a stalk—and any time a hunter is in proximity to elephants, even if inadvertently—the rifle will almost always be fully loaded (cartridge in the chamber and safety on). This is not only to be ready but also to avoid the metallic noise of working the action in proximity to game. Again, muzzle control is essential, with the mechanical safety as only a backup system.

• Crawling. Depending on terrain and vegetation, a lot or a little creeping and crawling is often required to get into a final shooting position. The biggest safety challenge comes when crawling is required. And this is potentially one of the most dangerous situations because many mechanical safeties can be brushed into firing position by grass and twigs. The trigger can also be snagged. Natural excitement doesn’t make it better! It is essential to focus on the muzzle, step by step, and ensure it is pointed in a safe direction. The muzzle can be offset to one side, or if you are in the rear of the line, the muzzle can be reversed.
• Butt scooting. An alternative to crawling on hands and knees is to sit flat with legs forward, knees bent, and feet flat on the ground. The rifle is laid across the lap with the muzzle to either side in a safe direction and with arms straight and hands to the rear. Using legs and arms, you scoot forward a foot and then repeat. Although slow and uncomfortable, butt scooting is safer from a muzzle control standpoint. If any significant distance must be covered, it is also less strenuous than hands-and-knees and creates much less wear and tear on hands, knees, and rifle.

Although techniques for crawling and scooting are important to know, their use is rare in elephant hunting because the elephant’s eyesight are a third and distant line of defense. Approaches must be made with the wind in favor and in absolute silence, so walking slowly, one step at a time, is most common when closing on elephants. Also, if the wind changes the hunter must be ready to move quickly!

Toughness of African Elephant

Elephants are so huge that “toughness” is a silly subject. No shoulder-fired rifle has enough power to impress an elephant. They can be killed readily but only by bullet penetration into brain, spine, heart, and lungs. Some of our really modern expanding bullets are actually tough enough to provide adequate penetration on some shots. But only non-expanding solid bullets designed specifically for penetration can provide reliable penetration on all potential shots. That said, with elephants, we are asking for a great deal of penetration—often through massive bone. No caliber or bullet is going to work every single time, so with elephants, it is extremely important to keep in mind what might happen next and be prepared for fast follow-up shots.

Shot Placement

Hey. Elephants are so huge that toughness is a silly subject. No shoulder-fired rifle has enough power to really impress an elephant. It’s all about shot placement.

They can be killed readily but only by bullet penetration to the brain, spine, heart, and lungs. Some of our really modern expanding bullets are actually tough enough to provide adequate penetration on some shots, but only non-expanding solid bullets designed specifically for penetration can provide reliable penetration on all potential shots.

That said, with elephants, we’re asking for a great deal of penetration, often through massive bone. No caliber of bullet is going to work every single time. So, with elephants, it’s extremely important to keep in mind what might happen next and be prepared for fast follow-up shots.

Neck and Spine Shots

Though either will at least immobilize an elephant instantly, neither is recommended for an initial shot. The target is too small and the risks of a non-fatal wounding shot much too high.

Frontal Brain Shot

By the time most hunters go on an elephant safari, they’ve read too many old books and watched too many DVDs, and they want to make that frontal brain shot. It is not recommended. The skull is huge, the brain is small, and it’s easy to make a mistake. The biggest challenge with the frontal brain shot is the brain lies well back in the skull, so its relative position changes with distance and head angle.

A professional hunter and Craig Boddington crouch beside an elephant skull.

Professional Hunter: Bearing in mind the brain is about the size of an American football and is totally surrounded and protected by this huge, bulky bone.

Craig Boddington: It sits a whole lot lower in the skull than a lot of people believe.

Generally speaking, at moderate distance, maybe 15 yards, and in a resting attitude, directly between the eyes is about right. Very close in the final instant of a charge, the elephant will drop its head, so center of the forehead is more correct.

When the elephant is threatening, he raises his head. Or when he’s very close, the uphill angle now requires shooting well below the eyes and requiring even more penetration.

The professional hunter and Craig Boddington crouch beside the elephant skull.

Craig Boddington: And that means you’re going to have to penetrate this much bone to reach that brain.

Professional Hunter: Exactly. As the elephant gets closer to you and his head goes down, your point of entry of your shot becomes higher and higher, and less and less bone to go through. The other major problem you have with a frontal with the elephant is that your elephant’s ivory sockets end up right above the eye. And depending on the size of the bull, you’ve got anything from 22 to 26 inches of ivory in the head. Any slight side shot, undoubtedly, the hunter ends up hitting the ivory and damaging the ivory.

It’s not true that a near miss to the brain will always stun an elephant—sometimes. But don’t count on it.

The professional hunter and Craig Boddington crouch beside the elephant skull.

Craig Boddington: This is where you have that honeycomb bone that they talk about that just soaks up the shock, right?

Professional Hunter: If someone puts a shot through the honeycomb, Craig, undoubtedly, the elephant will walk away. It’s not going to go down.

The most likely result of a failed brain shot is that, absent rapid follow-up shot, that elephant will never be seen again. However, despite the most careful maneuvering to get into position, the elephant ultimately decides what shot angle is offered. If an elephant senses something amiss, it will often confront the threat, which means a frontal brain shot will be offered. Avoid it if you can, but study it hard.

The brain lies at the center of the broomstick. So, while external aiming point changes with head attitude and distance, aiming to break that broomstick is always the right shooting solution. If the frontal brain shot is successful, the back legs usually collapse first, and the elephant is down so fast that he literally falls out from under the recoil of the rifle.

If the brain shot fails, things happen just as fast. But you should instantly recognize that you’ve flubbed, and you have to shoot again immediately and more accurately. By the time you’ve recovered from recoil, it will be too late to try a frontal brain again, but the elephant will normally turn away. So, in very rapid succession—fractions of seconds—you’ll be offered first the side brain shot, and then the shoulder shot, and then, as a last resort, a going-away shot to either hip or spine.

Side Brain Shot

Although still not recommended for first-time elephant hunters, the side brain shot is much easier to visualize than the frontal brain, and it’s just as deadly. Unlike with the frontal brain, from the side, the relative position to the brain doesn’t change with head angle and changes only slightly with distance.

A professional hunter, a hunter, and Craig Boddington stand beside a downed elephant.

Professional Hunter: I’ve got Kofi actually pointing out the earhole there. And as the head pivots up, there’s no movement.

Craig Boddington: No, that doesn’t move.

Professional Hunter: Do you see that?

Craig Boddington: That stays the same.

Professional Hunter: It really is the pivot point.

Craig Boddington: The frontal shot changes radically, and the side shot doesn’t change at all.

Professional Hunter: Absolutely.

Craig Boddington: Wow.

Viewed from the side, the elephant’s earhole is very visible. Perfect shot placement for the side brain shot with a broadside presentation is simply one hand’s breadth, three or four inches, in front of the earhole. At a very slight quartering-away angle, the earhole was the aiming point. At a very slight quarter-to angle, shoot slightly in front of the earhole.

As with the frontal brain, things happen quickly. And you’ll know instantly if your shot failed or was successful. But with a failed brain shot, things happen even faster. There will only be a split second for a follow-up shoulder shot, and then a split second later, the only opportunity is the going-away spine or hip shot.

Shoulder/Heart Shot

This is the shot preferred by most professional hunters and the shot that’s recommended for first-time elephant hunters. The target is huge, the aiming point is clear, and if properly executed, the result is certain. The shoulder/heart shot is not as dramatic as the brain shot. An elephant so hit can be expected to run 50 to possibly 200 yards. But losing an elephant to even a marginal chest cavity shot is extremely unlikely.

The elephant has a very prominent crease behind the shoulder that looks very much like an upside-down V. Find that crease, and come up to the top. The crease will end about one-third up from the brisket. Perfect. Broadside, the top of the V is a perfect lung shot. Quartering slightly away, the top of the V is a top of heart shot. For the perfect shoulder/heart shot, however, with a broadside presentation, find the top of the upside-down V. Then, depending on how the elephant is standing, move about 6 to 10 inches left or right toward the center of the shoulder.

A hit slightly higher back will still be solidly in the lungs, but it’s important to stay below the horizontal halfway point. Such a hit should be quickly fatal. But the elephant is going to run, and you can’t be certain of either shot placement or bullet performance, so follow up that first shot if you possibly can.

Shot Placement: Neck and Spine, Frontal Brain

Neck and spine shots. Though either placement will at least immobilize an elephant instantly, neither is recommended for an initial shot. The target is too small, and the risks of a non-fatal wounding shot are too high.

Frontal brain shot. By the time hunters go on an elephant safari, most have read too much of the old stuff and watched too many videos. The front brain shot is often the shot they dream of making, but it is not recommended for first-time elephant hunters! The skull is huge, the brain is small, and it’s easy to make a mistake. It is not true that a near-miss to the brain will always stun an elephant. Sometimes, it will, but don’t count on it. The most likely result of a failed brain shot is that, absent rapid follow-up shots, the elephant will never be seen again. This shot should be avoided if possible. However, despite the most careful maneuvering to get into position, the elephant ultimately decides what shot angle is offered. If an elephant senses something amiss, it will often confront the threat, which means a frontal brain shot will be offered. Avoid it if you can, but study it.

• Head angle. The biggest challenge with the frontal brain shot is that the brain lies well back in the skull, so its relative position changes with distance and head angle. Generally speaking, at moderate distance (15 yards) and in a resting attitude, directly between the eyes is close. When very close in the final instant of a charge, the elephant will drop its head, so the center of forehead is more correct. When threatening or when very close, the uphill angle requires shooting well below the eyes and even more penetration.
• Break the broomstick! The most visual and most easily remembered rule on the frontal brain shot is to visualize a broomstick horizontally through the elephant’s skull from earhole to earhole. The brain lies at the center of the broomstick, So, while the external aiming point changes with head attitude and distance, aiming to “break the broomstick” is always the right shooting solution.
• What next? If the frontal brain shot is successful, the back legs normally collapse first, and the elephant is down so quickly that it essentially falls out from under the rifle. If the brain shot fails, things happen just as fast. But you should recognize instantly that you’ve flubbed it, and you must shoot again immediately and more accurately. By the time you have recovered from recoil, it will be too late to try a frontal brain again. The elephant will normally turn away, so in very rapid succession (fractions of seconds), you will be offered first the side brain shot, then the shoulder shot, and, then as a last resort, a going-away shot to either hip or spine.

Shot Placement: Side Brain, Shoulder/Heart

Side brain shot. Although still not recommended for first-time elephant hunters, the side brain shot is much easier to visualize than the frontal brain shot—and equally deadly. With the side brain shot, the relative position of the brain doesn’t change with the head angle unlike with the frontal brain shot. And it changes only slightly with distance.

• Viewed from the side, the elephant’s earhole is very visible. Perfect shot placement for the side brain shot with a broadside presentation is simply one hand’s breadth—3 or 4 inches—in front of the earhole.
• At a very slight quartering-away angle, the earhole is the aiming point. At a very slight quartering-to angle, shoot slightly in front of the earhole.
• As with the frontal brain shot, things happen quickly, and you will know instantly if your shot failed or was successful. But with a failed side brain shot things happen even faster. There will be only a split second for a follow-up shoulder shot, and then a split second later the only opportunity is the going-away spine or hip shot.

Shoulder/heart shot. This is the shot preferred by most African PHs and most recommended for beginning elephant hunters. The target is huge, the aiming point is clear, and if properly executed, the result is certain. The shoulder/heart shot is not as dramatic as the brain shot. An elephant that is hit can be expected to run 50 to possibly 200 yards, but losing an elephant to even a very marginal chest-cavity shot is extremely unlikely.

• Find the V. The elephant has a very prominent crease behind the shoulder that looks very much like an upside-down V. Find that crease, and come up to the top. The crease will end about one-third up from the brisket—perfect! Broadside, the top of the V is a perfect lung shot. Quartering slightly away, the top of the V is a top of heart shot. For the perfect shoulder/heart shot, however, with a broadside presentation, find the top of the upside-down V. Then depending on how the elephant is standing, move about 6 to 10 inches left or right toward the center of the shoulder.
• A hit slightly high or back will still be solidly in the lungs, but it’s important to stay below the horizontal halfway point.
• Such a hit should be quickly fatal, but the elephant is going to run. You cannot be certain of either shot placement or bullet performance, so follow up that first shot if you possibly can!

Shot Angles

Obviously, just like any other animal, elephants don’t always stand perfectly broadside. But because elephants are so much larger than anything else, only very slight quartering angles can be accepted for body shots, and angles make brain shots more difficult. The broadside presentation is rarely perfect, but most PHs will work very hard to maneuver you into an acceptable shooting position and presentation. And you must not shoot until your PH says, “Take him.”

Going-Away Shots

On unwounded elephant, of course, never. However, to prevent the escape of a wounded animal, the going-away shot is not an uncommon option. Like most animals, upon receiving a bullet, an elephant is most likely to turn away to escape, opening up two opportunities for follow-up shots.

Spine Shot

A central Texas heart shot is unlikely to penetrate to the vitals of an elephant, so it’s essential to break heavy bone. Unlike most animals, on an elephant, the spine is very visible as a prominent ridge above the tail. This is not a large aiming point, but a hit on that ridge will immobilize your elephant.

Hip Shot

Although harder to visualize, the hip shot is much preferred by experienced elephant hunters for stopping wounded elephants. As an elephant goes away, the pumping action of the massive hip joint is actually visible at just about the level of the anus. Aside from the obvious danger of following the elephant, the elephant’s able to cover vast amounts of ground. So, potential loss of the wounded elephant is probably higher than with any other animal. Never shoot unless you’re certain, but once the initial shot is fired, follow up your shot if you possibly can. If the first shot wasn’t fatal, additional shots can’t worsen the situation.

Shot Angles

Obviously game animals don’t always stand perfectly broadside. But because elephants are so much larger than anything else, only very slight quartering angles can be accepted for body shots, and angles make brain shots more difficult. The broadside presentation is rarely perfect, but most PHs will work very hard to maneuver you into an acceptable shooting position and presentation. You must not shoot until your PH says, “Take him!”

• Going-away shots. On unwounded elephant, of course, never! However, to prevent the escape of a wounded animal, the going-away shot is not an uncommon option. Like most animals, upon receiving a bullet, an elephant is most likely to turn away to escape—opening up two opportunities for follow-up shots.
• Spine shot. A central “Texas heart shot” is unlikely to penetrate to the vitals of an elephant, so it’s essential to break heavy bone. Unlike most animals, the spine on the elephant is very visible as a prominent ridge above the tail. This is not a large aiming point, but a hit on that ridge will immobilize your elephant.
• Hip shot. Although harder to visualize, the hip shot is much preferred by experienced elephant hunters for stopping wounded elephants. As an elephant goes away, the pumping action of the massive hip joint is actually visible, at about the level of the anus.

Aside from the obvious danger of following a wounded elephant, the elephant is able to cover vast amounts of ground. So, potential loss of a wounded elephant is probably higher than than with any other animal. Never shoot unless you are certain, but once the initial shot is fired, follow up your shot if you possibly can. If the first shot wasn’t fatal, additional shots cannot worsen the situation!

After the Shot

Adrenaline is surging, and that’s good. But that’s not the time to throw away safety. After firing a shot, immediately make ready to shoot again. With elephant hunting, a backup or insurance shot is almost always fired no matter what happens after the first shot. Sometimes, you will remain in position and observe or listen for a time. Other times, you will rush forward, depending entirely on your PH’s judgment at that moment. After the shot or shots, you should reload your chamber and be ready. But before you move forward to check your elephant or look for sign, be certain you engage your safety, and maintain full control of your rifle with both hands. Before you move is the right time to top up your magazine, especially if you have fired more than one shot.

Approach a downed elephant with extreme caution, and do not rush ahead of your PH and trackers. Approach with your PH. Ideally, approach so that a final insurance shot may be fired from a safe position—either into the brain or heart, depending on how the elephant is lying. With elephants, it is the lack of reaction to that insurance shot that verifies the animal’s death. Once it is certain the animal is deceased, unload your chamber.

Follow-Up Shots and Backup Shots

Follow-up shots. On the range, practice firing additional shots from sticks and while standing unsupported. If a brain shot is not successful, things happen very fast. And elephants almost never go down immediately even to perfectly placed heart/lung shots. So, with elephants, additional follow-up shots can be extremely important. If the first shot didn’t go right, follow-up shots, in this unique case, can actually be more important than the first shot.

• Practice working your action or using the second barrel of your double without changing position or losing your sight picture. Speed is of the essence! Things happen fast after the first shot is fired. But with elephants, there will usually be a brief opportunity for a follow-up shot, provided you have trained yourself adequately. Especially with failed brain shots—which are common—it is extremely unlikely that elephant will ever be seen again, so quick follow-up shots are of critical importance. As with all situations, it remains essential to be absolutely certain you are aiming at the same elephant!

Backup shots. These shots are commonly thought of as being fired by your PH at your elephant. Most competent PHs prefer not to fire, following the ethic that it is your animal and your long-awaited adventure. Some, usually with limited experience, are too anxious to assist.

• The subject of backup shots must be discussed with your PH at the start of your safari. If you insist on a brain shot, then it is highly recommended that you ask your PH to be prepared to fire immediately after you do. The result of a failed brain shot, as one famous PH said, is that the elephant will “ramp the horizon, never to be seen again.” The shoulder/heart shot, though not as immediate, is far more certain, and its use may preclude the necessity for the PH to fire.
• Ultimately, the PH is responsible for the entire party’s safety, including yours. It is the PH’s responsibility to recover wounded game if at all possible, and this is clearly essential with wounded dangerous game. It is recommended that the PH be allowed to use his or her judgment as to whether or not to fire. The necessity for the PH to fire is greatly mitigated by accurate initial shot placement and by follow-up shots when they can safely be made.

Following Up on Elephant

Absent a well-executed brain shot, it’s very unlikely for an elephant to fall within sight. However, the animal is huge. It’ll be heard crashing away for some time and may roar in pain and fright. In open cover, some PHs will immediately dash forward, trying to keep the elephant in sight. But it’s more common to wait a bit and listen.

If the shot is well placed, the elephant will go down very quickly, usually well within earshot. Either way, before moving, top up your rifle. Follow your PH’s lead. But be sure to engage your safety and keep your rifle muzzle in a safe direction. And be ready.

Your professional hunter and, perhaps, the trackers have observed the hit or hits, and they have a reasonable idea of the situation. But hey, some hits are better than they look and some are worse. Unless it’s believed that the shots weren’t well placed, the initial follow-up is generally conducted with the hope and often belief that the elephant is down.

With elephants, however, this is usually readily apparent. Blood spray from the trunk will indicate a proper heart-lung hit, and the elephant will quickly be found. The spoor will also reveal a poorer hit and a worse situation. Your professional hunter is in charge and he’s done this before. Place yourself where he tells you, and proceed carefully.

The professional hunter signals the group to stop.

Craig Boddington: There’s still movement?

The professional hunter and Craig Boddington walk slowly forward.

Rifle fully loaded, on safe, controlled by both hands, muzzle in a safe direction. When the elephant is spotted, whether down or standing, shoot again at your PH’s direction.

Craig Boddington fires his rifle at the elephant.

Professional Hunter: He’s going away.

The elephant is shown lying down.

Another hunter fires his rifle at an elephant in a herd. The elephant collapses. The other elephants run away as hunters shout at them. The elephant gets up.

Hunter: He’s getting back up. Hit him again.

The hunters fire multiple follow-up shots at the elephant.

Depending on cover and spoor, after you follow it for maybe 200 yards, the assumption has to be made that you’re following a wounded elephant. This is a dangerous situation, and the outcome is now uncertain. The spoor has to be followed as long as it is possible for the trackers to hold the track or until the elephant’s crossed a totally unbreachable boundary such as an international border. Wounded elephants have been recovered after several days on the track.

In the case of a wounded elephant, the PH is absolutely in charge. And one of the things he worries about most is an inexperienced hunter with a rifle in his hands. Some PHs prefer to follow up alone with their trackers. Others will invite the hunter to participate based on their evaluation of his or her coolness and safe gun handling. If invited, walk as the PH directs, usually to the side rather than the rear and concentrate. This is serious stuff.

Pay attention to where the PH and trackers are at all times. Keep your rifle on safe, and monitor your muzzle direction. This is a good time to load up again with solids. In the case of a charge, the frontal brain shot is usually the only shot that’s presented, and it’s the only shot that’s going to stop the elephant.

An elephant charges forward. Two hunters fire multiple shots at the elephant. The elephant collapses.

It hasn’t changed. Imagine the broomstick running from earhole to earhole, and shoot to break that broomstick.

Following Up on Elephant

Absent a well-executed brain shot, it is extremely unlikely for an elephant to succumb within sight. The animal is huge, so it will be heard crashing away for some time and may roar in pain and fright. In open cover, some PHs will immediately dash forward, trying to keep the elephant in sight. But it’s more common to wait a bit and listen. If the shot is well placed, the elephant will go down very quickly, usually well within earshot. Either way, before moving, top up your rifle. Follow your PH’s lead. But be sure to engage your safety, and keep your rifle muzzle in a safe direction. And be ready!

• Your PH and, perhaps, the trackers have observed the hit or hits. Based on experience, they will have a reasonable idea of the situation. But some hits are better than they look, and others are worse. Unless it’s believed that the shot or shots weren’t well placed, the initial follow-up is generally conducted with the hope (and often belief) that the elephant is down. With elephants, however, this is usually readily apparent. Blood spray from the trunk will indicate a proper heart/lung hit, and the elephant will quickly be found. The spoor will also quickly reveal a poorer hit and a worse situation. Your PH is in charge, and he or she has done this before. Place yourself where the PH tells you and proceed carefully—rifle fully loaded, on safe, controlled by both hands, muzzle in a safe direction. When the elephant is spotted, whether down or standing, shoot again on your PH’s instruction and place your shot as well as you can.
• Depending on cover and spoor, after you’ve followed for 200 yards, the assumption must be made that you are following a wounded elephant. This is a dangerous situation, and the outcome is now uncertain. The spoor must be followed as long as it is possible for the trackers to hold the track or until the elephant has crossed a totally unbreachable boundary, such as an international border. Elephants have been recovered after several days on the track.
• In the case of a wounded elephant, the PH is absolutely in charge, and one of the things he or she worries about most is an inexperienced hunter with a rifle following behind. Some PHs prefer to follow up alone with their trackers. Others will invite the hunter to participate based on evaluation of his or her coolness and safe gun handling. If invited, walk as the PH directs—usually to the side rather than the rear—and concentrate. This is serious stuff. Pay attention to where the PH and trackers are at all times, keep your rifle on safe, and monitor your muzzle direction. This is a good time to load up with solids!
• In the case of a charge, the frontal brain is usually the only shot—and almost always the only shot that will stop the elephant. The shot placement hasn’t changed; you must shoot to “break the broomstick” running from earhole to earhole.

Researching Africa

Anticipation is part of the fun of any safari, but smart preparation will make any safari more successful.

For further study:

• African literature. These works are unusually rich. Since the African elephant has long been the stuff of legends, there are a number of great books specifically on elephant hunting, both old and current. While Africa has certainly changed, elephant hunting hasn’t changed much, so there is value to this reading. Just be aware that today’s trophy quality is not what it was 50 years ago, so do not allow your reading and study to instill unrealistic expectations.
• Films and videos. Beware of unnecessarily sensationalized media. With elephants, mock charges are common, but serious charges are rare, especially with straight shooting and careful hunting. However, there are great films, television shows, and videos (both amateur and professional) on elephant hunting. The most important thing to learn is to visualize proper shot placement, and moving pictures are excellent for this. They are also valuable for ivory judgment.

Conditioning

Elephant hunting is not marathon running or sheep hunting, but an elephant hunt with typical tracking can be one of the most physically demanding hunts in Africa. The best exercise for walking is walking. Tracking is conducted at a slow, steady pace. But it isn’t unusual to be on tracks for several hours, and at the end of the hunt, the vehicle may be several hours away.

Practice

Shooting accurately is a key to the success of any hunt. The more practice time you can manage in the months and weeks before the hunt is to the good. There is no formula, but if an unfamiliar heavy rifle is acquired for an elephant hunt, a minimum of 50 (better 100) shots should be fired through it prior to the hunt, both to build familiarity and to ensure absolute reliability. Because of recoil, this cannot be done in one or two sittings. You can use a .22 to practice shooting off sticks and while standing. Shooting the elephant rifle should be limited to 5 to 10 shots per range session to avoid acquiring a recoil-induced flinch.

• Shooting sticks. Make or acquire a set of shooting sticks and practice with them, working your bolt through a full magazine or using both barrels of your double.
• Speed. The great complaint of African professional hunters (PHs) about their hunters’ shooting is not raw accuracy but speed in acquiring targets and getting their shots off. Rather than just practicing shooting off sticks, practice starting a few feet behind them with rifle down and safety on. Work on getting into position, acquiring the target, and getting an accurate shot off quickly.
• Offhand or standing. Practice shooting unsupported at closer ranges. In the field, this is to be avoided. But in close encounters with elephants, there is often no other option, so spend a lot of range time shooting offhand.
• Reloading. Practice working your action rapidly with as little movement off the target as possible, firing two or three shots rather than just one.
• Use a .22. While there is no substitute for shooting the rifle or the rifles you intend to use on safari and becoming absolutely familiar and confident, shooting off sticks and shooting offhand can be practiced very effectively with a .22 rimfire—cheaper ammo, no recoil, less noise. Training with an accurate airgun is equally effective.

Medical Considerations

Always consult your doctor before planning any distant hunt, or beginning a training regimen for any hunt. That said, medical preparations for safaris are minimal.

• Inoculations. The Centers of Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) maintains a listing of required and recommended inoculations by country. Again, consult with your doctor before taking any medications, but “required” and “recommended” mean just that. You can expect to be required to show proof of a required inoculation in order to gain entry to a country, while recommended inoculations are at your discretion. It’s important to check the current listings, but typically, there are no required inoculations for Namibia, South Africa, or Zimbabwe. Countries to the north often require a current yellow fever vaccination.
• Malaria prophylaxis. Except for South Africa, most elephant hunting areas have potential for malaria-carrying mosquitoes. Numerous malaria preventives are available—all by prescription—so discuss the best option with your doctor.
• Medical evacuation membership. African hunting is generally safe, but in the case of an accident or sudden illness, medical evacuation from a foreign country can be catastrophically expensive. Several firms offer medical evacuation memberships that will cover these expenses if evacuation is necessary. This coverage is a good idea any time you are away from home, so annual membership is ideal for people who travel regularly. If this is not the case, short-term membership is available to cover the period of your safari.
• First-aid training. If you aren’t trained, get basic first-aid training. Your PH will do everything possible to prevent you from being injured. You should be prepared to help your PH if there’s a serious accident.

Paperwork

Temporary firearms importation and visa requirements vary with countries (and visa requirements vary depending on your country of origin). Both are subject to change. Discuss these requirements with your outfitter well ahead of your safari, and be clear as to what actions are required and who (you or your outfitter) is supposed to do them.

Airline Reservations and Requirements

Airline Reservations and Requirements Traveling with firearms is increasingly difficult. Some carriers no longer carry firearms, and many carriers require advance notice. Some interim destinations require special permits to transit with firearms. The simplest and safest solution is usually to use a “firearms and hunting-savvy” travel agent to help sort through the labyrinth, but if you book your travel yourself, speak to an airline representative and make sure all requirements are fully understood.

Clothing

With current baggage restrictions, it’s advisable to pack light. This is generally possible on an African safari because weather is usually mild and, unlike hunting camps in many areas, laundry is done on a more or less daily basis.

• Camouflage is becoming more common in Africa, and restrictions against wearing it have generally been lifted. Whether camouflage or solid, neutral green is the preferred color. You should have at maximum three changes of clothing.
• Fabric chosen should be quiet to avoid scratching noises in brush and should be rugged enough to withstand vigorous handwashing. Cotton is always a good choice.
• Whether you wear short or long trousers or sleeves is a personal choice. Most PHs wear shorts. Shorts are quieter in brush and cooler during the heat of the day but mean more exposure to the sun and (probably) more scratches from thorns.
• Do not underestimate how cold it can be during the African winter (June to August), which corresponds with the peak safari season in southern Africa. In addition to layered outerwear for cold mornings and rapidly cooling evenings, bring a warm watch cap or balaclava and gloves.
• Rain is extremely unlikely between June and October, but it is not impossible. Light rain gear can also double as an extra layer.

Additional Equipment

Optics

Binoculars are mandatory, likewise good sunglasses.

Firearms Accessories

Cleaning kit. Africa is hard on firearms. Dust is the major issue, but once in a while, insects nest in gun barrels (overnight). Bring minimal cleaning gear: oil, solvent, patches, and a jointed cleaning rod.

Rifle sling, scope caps, soft gun case, belt ammunition pouch, hearing protection. Especially if the decision is made to bring just one rifle, consider bringing a spare riflescope set in rings, along with necessary tools to switch in case a scope fails or is damaged in a fall.

Ammunition. Required amounts vary depending on length of safari and size of bag, but running low isn’t fun, and running out is a problem. Think about two to three cartridges for each animal you plan to hunt along with spares for zeroing and checking zero periodically. If a specific rifle is brought primarily for elephant, then 30 rounds is plenty, mixed between expanding and solids. Weigh your total ammunition, and make sure you don’t exceed the international 5-kilogram or 11-pound baggage limit for ammunition.

Packing Tips

Firearms and Ammunition

Firearms must be packed separately in sturdy locked cases. Make sure your hinges are secure and the hasps allow the case to be securely locked. Always declare firearms and ammunition when you approach any ticket counter.

In the United States, up to 5 kilograms or 11 pounds of ammunition in original factory containers can be in checked baggage, separate from firearms. In Europe and South Africa, the same weight limit applies, but ammunition must be checked separately in its own locked case (wood, metal, or plastic). The simplest approach is to get a small, sturdy ammunition case and pack it in your duffel bag with locks inside but not locked when you leave the United States. In this fashion, you are ready to comply if required during a plane change or stopover.

Carry-On Bag

While baggage handling is generally reliable, delays and lost bags do occur everywhere in the world. Pack your carry-on bag as if it were the only bag you will receive! You can usually borrow a rifle and ammo and purchase basic clothing articles, so mandatory in the carry-on are binoculars, camera, extra prescription glasses, all prescription medications for the full period of your hunt, one change of clothing, and anything else you simply cannot live without for 10 days or 2 weeks.

Checked Bags

Luggage must be rugged and waterproof, but soft duffel bags are better than hard-sided luggage because they are easier to fit into vehicles and smaller final transport to camp.

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Today I’m going to show you the best scope for hog hunting.

In fact:

I’ve hand- tested over 10 scopes alone for this review.

The best part?

I’ve sorted the scopes by use. So whether you’re on a budget or need the best AR-15 hog hunting scope, you’ll find it here.

Let’s dive in!

The 4 Best Scope For Hog Hunting

If you’re pressed on time, here’s a quick list of the best hog hunting scopes:

1. Leupold FX-II Ultralight 2.5×20: Best Hog Hunting Scope
2. Trijicon ACOG 3.5×35: Best Scope for Fast Target Acquisition
3. ATN X-Sight 4K Pro 5-20x: Best Night Vision Scope for Hog Hunting
4. Pulsar Trail 2 LRF XP50 Thermal Riflescope: Best Thermal Scope for Hog Hunting

1. Leupold FX-II Ultralight 2.5×20: Best Hog Hunting Scope

The Leupold FX-II Ultralight is a fantastic fixed-magnification scope in a lightweight, low profile package.

In fact, I think it’s the best scope for hog hunting.

Want to know why? Keep reading…

Glass Clarity & Reticle

The glass on the FX-II is very clear.

Leupold used their Index Matched Lens System to fully multicoat the scope which results in a very clear image. This is great for hogs on the move.

Also, the light transmission in this scope is very good. In fact, it’s so good that I can get an extra 20 minutes of shooting time out of this scope versus trying to shoot with my naked eye.

This is because of Leupold’s Twilight Management System.

Now, on to the reticle.

This scope uses a simple Wide Duplex reticle. The wide posts are great for rapidly drawing my eye in to center, and the fine crosshairs are precise enough for target plinking at 150-200 yards.

The reticle is etched into the glass and shows up really well in low-light conditions. This pairs really nicely with that great light transmission I mentioned earlier and makes for easy, clear sighting on those late-night hog hunts.

There aren’t any holdover lines, but with a fixed 2.5x magnification, you don’t really need them. This reticle excels in fast target acquisition at close to mid range.

Eye Relief & Eye Box

Here’s one of my favorite things about the FX-II:

The eye relief is a whopping 4.9 inches!

At this distance, you can even set your scope up “scout style,” where you mount the scope in front of the receiver of your rifle. This setup is a literal must-have for bolt-action guns and Garands.

Combined with the low-fixed magnification, this setup allows me to use the scope while still keeping both my eyes open. Speaking of magnification…

Magnification & Parallax

This scope provides a fixed 2.5x zoom.

I find that this amount of magnification is perfect for hog hunting since I’m usually within about 100 yards to my target.

This level of magnification is also great for rimfire plinking and varmint hunting. I’ve had a blast running the FX-II on my Ruger 10-22.

I’ve had no issues at all with parallax on this scope. That’s because Leupold has factory set the parallax adjustment to 150 yards.

Elevation & Windage Knobs

This scope uses ¼ MOA click turrets.

I like the solid “click” that I get when making adjustments, and the low-profile turrets help give the scope a sleek look.

Zeroing was quick and easy. I was zeroed in within about 5 shots and after dozens of hunts, the zero has held true.

Durability & Weight

I’ve come to expect durability from Leupold scopes, and the FX-II doesn’t disappoint.

The scope is waterproof to a depth of 33 feet, fogproof, scratchproof, and shock resistant. If that’s not enough, Leupold also tested the scope at temperatures from -40 to 160 degrees.

All these features mean that you can take this scope into any conditions without worrying about damaging it.

Here’s my favorite thing about this scope: It only weighs 6.5 ounces.

This low weight is not only great for my comfort as a shooter, but it makes the scope more recoil resistant, too. The heavier the scope, the more it wants to stay in place when you fire. A lighter scope travels with the rifle with less resistance.

Basically, this means that the lighter the scope, the more it’s able to take recoils without taking any internal damage or messing with your zero.

Plus, when you’re out hunting, you’d want a lightweight optic. Remember, every ounce counts 🙂

Mounting & Rings

The FX-II doesn’t ship with any mounts or rings.

So I’d recommend Low Leupold Rifleman Scope Rings to mount this scope to your rifle of choice.

The scope does include some slip on lens covers. But honestly, they felt cheap. So I went with Leupold Ultralight Flip Back Lens Covers (Eye piece: size 59060, Objective: 20mm).

These will keep your glass protected while still maintaining that nice, low weight.

Is the Leupold FX-II Ultralight 2.5×20 worth it?

The Leupold FX-II is a great riflescope that proves that great things can come in small packages.

It’s got:

• 2.5x zoom
• Clear glass
• Solid “click” turrets
• Extremely lightweight
• High eye relief for scout setup
• Wide duplex reticle for fast target acquisition

Plus, the whole thing is backed by Leupold’s Gold Ring Lifetime Warranty.

So if you’re looking for a durable, lightweight, affordable riflescope for close-mid range hog hunting and target shooting, the FX-II Ultralight is for you.

Still not sure what you’re looking for in a scope? Check out this Essential Guide to Choosing a Rifle Scope.

2. Trijicon ACOG 3.5×35: Best Scope for Fast Target Acquisition

For fast target acquisition, Trijicon’s ACOG 3.5×35 more than achieves expectations.

In fact, the “Advanced Combat Optical Gunsight” has been used for medium distance engagements by Marines and Special Forces since the early 90’s.

I figured if it works for them then it’ll work for me. I wasn’t wrong.

Read on to learn more…

Glass Clarity & Reticle

Crystal clear glass.

That’s what I noticed when I first looked through the Trijicon ACOG. To be honest, I’m still a little amazed by how clear it actually looks. The image detail is awesome.

To top it off, I didn’t notice any fogging in the lens during those early morning hunts. Turns out, this optic is nitrogen purged.

When choosing my ACOG, I was a little overwhelmed by the different reticle choices Trijicon offers. With some research, I decided that the green BDC chevron was the best fit for me because it’s standard for military M4s.

After a few hog hunts, I absolutely loved this reticle. Here’s why:

First, it uses a simple-to-understand Bullet Drop Compensating (BDC) feature that automatically estimates windage, holdover and distance for you. Once you sight in at let’s say 100 yards, the hash marks below the reticle are great at picking off shots out to 800 meters.

And second, the illuminated reticle doesn’t need batteries to operate. During the day, a fiber optic light gathering strand directs light to the reticle. And at night, tritium illuminates the reticle.

However, I noticed that on REALLY bright days, the reticle can become too bright. This can make shooting distant targets inside a dim lit area somewhat challenging because the glow from the reticle is a little overwhelming.

I found that putting some tape on the fiber optic strand helps with reducing the illumination intensity. Simple fix in my opinion.

Speaking of fixing, the ACOG comes with a lense pen, which I use for maintenance. Keep in mind you’re not going to want to use any solvents on this (as with any high-end optic) or you’ll probably ruin the lense coating.

I haven’t done it myself but I have watched some guys hose mud off their ACOGs. Seems to work and their glass still looks great afterward!

Eye Relief & Eye Box

2.4 inches of eye relief is what you get.

Doesn’t seem like a lot, which is what I initially thought when I read the manual, but after actually using it on my rifle I’ve had no problems.

Keep in mind, troops use this ACOG on belt-fed machine guns without getting “eye punched” so you’ll be fine.

I had to remove my rear iron sight to get the proper eye relief but I don’t miss it. I even toyed with the idea of mounting iron sights offset at 45 degrees but simply decided I don’t need them with this ACOG.

The field of view when looking through the ACOG is more than generous for my needs. It also allows me to keep both eyes open, which greatly improves situation awareness.

Instead of squinting through a scope, I’m now able to more easily scan the surroundings during hog hunts and better prepare for my next target in competitive shooting.

In essence, the AGOC has noticeably improved my reaction time.

Not bad for only 2.4 inches of eye relief.

Durability

So far, the ACOG is the most dependable optic I own.

The moment I held it, I knew right off the bat this thing is built tough. And it’s true: The ACOG is forged from 7075-T6 aircraft grade aluminum alloy.

It’ll work if I do drop it.

And I have dropped it on a few occasions.

I have a SCAR 17, which is notorious for trashing out cheap optics, and the ACOG works flawlessly when paired with it.

No busted lenses or broken seals so far, even after dropping it from a tree stand onto roots. I’ve also dropped it on gravel and concrete. It still worked like a champ.

It’s also waterproof. The most water I’ve had on mine was from rain, but the specs say it can be submerged up to 100 meters.

Elevation & Windage Knobs

I’ve dropped my ACOG hard enough to dent one of the turret caps and it still maintains zero. Turrets still work great and feel durable.

Easy to zero but slightly different than other scopes. Adjustment increments are ½ inch per (audible) click at 100 yards. 2 clicks move the bullet 1 inch on the target.

The adjustment cap lanyard saved me from rummaging through tall grass to find butterfingered caps on more than one occasion.

Keep in mind…

As with any optic, don’t force the turrets beyond their adjustment limits — damaging the prism assembly is possible.

Even Superman has a weakness.

Parallax & Magnification

This ACOG has a fixed 3.5x magnification. Awesome for fast target acquisition.

No fumbling with various magnifications.

Plus, with 3.5x, longer shots using the BDC reticle are fun.

3.5x has less parallax than the 4x version. Up and down movement has no parallax that I can tell. There’s some parallax with side to side movement but nothing concerning.

Mounting & Rings

This optic comes with the thumbscrew mount for “flattop” MIL-STD-1913 rails or the carry handle screw and washer set (for ARs with fixed carry handles).

Can only find the carry handle mount option? Buy the MIL-STD adapter.

Adapters are also available for weaver rails and H&K firearms.

I use my ACOG on different firearms and prefer the throw lever mount for easy removal/attachment. There’s also a quick release option

Can’t seem to get the proper eye relief for your comfort? Try the extended eye relief adapter.

Concerned about lense reflections? Grab an anti-reflection device.

The ACOG comes with a Scopecoat but you may prefer a flip cover (like myself). Only available for the objective lens and it doesn’t work with the anti-reflection device.

Is the Trijicon ACOG 3.5×35 worth it?

If you’re out hog hunting and need the best scope for fast target acquisition, then get the Trijicon ACOG 3.5×35.

Here’s why:

• Built strong
• No batteries
• Generous FOV
• Easy to understand BDC

I’ll have to admit:

The ACOG comes at a considerable price for a fixed magnification. But if you’re looking for fast target acquisition AND Special Forces approval, then this is it.

(Need something cheaper? Check out my review on the Aimpoint Pro vs. T1).

If you’re settled on buying this, be warned: Watch out for knockoffs. This video will help you determine what’s legit:

3. ATN X-Sight 4K Pro 5-20x: Best Night Vision Scope for Hog Hunting

The ATN X-Sight Pro is a high-tech night vision scope with a ton of advanced features.

In fact, it’s the best night vision scope available for hog hunting.

This scope packs in the kind of advanced features that you only get from a digital scope, but it looks and feels like a traditional riflescope.

How have they done this? Read on to find out.

Image Quality & Reticle

The image quality when looking through this scope is fantastic.

In the daylight, I can see every detail, and the color fidelity is incredible. This is all thanks to the 4k Ultra HD sensor that makes up the backbone of this scope.

And at night, I can clearly see my targets even in total blackness, thanks to the included infrared illuminator. This is important when hogs decide to charge in the night!

One of my favorite things about this scope is the reticle.

The X-Sight uses a digital Smart Mil Dot reticle.

You can customize the variance between the mil dots using the smartphone app so that your reticle is custom tailored to your caliber and load. Plus, the reticle automatically adjusts as you increase zoom.

Eye Relief & Eye Box

Unlike many digital scopes, the X-Sight has a much more traditional eye relief.

I set mine right at 3.5 inches.

Now, here’s one of my issues with this scope:

The eye box is pretty unforgiving. There is a lot of extra information displayed in the scope image, and I find that if I don’t keep my cheek weld solid, I can’t really see any of it.

That said, it’s still a lot more comfortable to use than my other digital scopes.

Special Features

ATN has put a lot of cool features into this scope.

One of the most advanced things this scope has is the Smart Rangefinder.

The scope will take two measurements from the reticle and calculate the distance to target. Then the range is displayed right there on screen. No more guesses.

The X-Sight also has a built-in Ballistic Calculator. Program in your weapon profile and environment data like wind and humidity using the smartphone app, and then the scope will adjust your point of impact accordingly.

Also, the X-Sight has full HD video streaming capabilities, and automatically records video when you start shooting. This is great for tracking a running target after you take your shot.

Basically, this scope does all the work for you!

Durability and Battery

This scope is pretty durable, as far as digital scopes go.

It’s water resistant, weather resistant, and tested to operate at temperatures from -40 to 130 degrees.

The tube is made from high-grade aluminum, and it’s fogproof and shockproof too.

The battery life on this scope is great. You can run the scope for 18 hours without having to recharge it. This is perfect for long hunts, or trips where you don’t have access to a charger between hunts.

Zeroing

Zeroing was incredibly quick.

This scope has a One Shot Zero system. All I had to do was take a shot, adjust my point of impact, and I was good to go.

I’ve put hundreds of rounds through my Mini-14 with this scope mounted, and have had no problems with the zero straying.

Magnification

The X-Sight gives you 5-20x variable magnification.

I’ve noticed that the image tends to pixelate a little bit at the higher magnifications, but not enough to obscure my target. I can easily shoot targets up to 800 yards out using this scope.

Also, this scope uses a smooth zoom wheel rather than buttons. I prefer the way this feels versus my other digital scopes. It acts like a traditional glass scope, which is more what I’m used to.

Mounting & Accessories

The ATN X-Sight includes a picatinny rail with standard rings, plus one L-shaped ring to use with accessories. It also includes an infrared illuminator and a sun shade, so right out of the box, it’s ready for both night and day shooting.

I highly recommend getting the ABL Laser Rangefinder from ATN.

It attaches right onto the side of the scope, and automatically communicates with the scope via Bluetooth. The built-in Smart Rangefinder is nice, but for hogs, you’ll want to be able to instantly get a range on your target.

The X-Sight also ships with a nice neoprene scope cover, but it doesn’t include any lens caps. I recommend Butler Creek Flip Caps (Objective Size 48, Eyepiece Size 02.)

Is the ATN X-Sight Pro 5-20x worth it?

Overall, the X-Sight Pro packs advanced digital features into a streamlined scope that resembles more traditional glass scopes.

It’s got:

• 4k Ultra HD image
• Comfortable eye relief
• Customizable digital mil dot reticle
• Automatic video recording and streaming
• Built in Smart Rangefinder and Ballistic Calculator
• Night Vision Mode with included infrared illuminator

Plus, the scope is covered by ATN’s 2 Year Warranty.

So if you want the best night vision scope for hog hunting at night that’s easy and comfortable to use, look no further than the X-Sight Pro. Those hogs will never see you coming!

Need a good scope for your .22-250? Check out our top picks.

4. Pulsar Trail 2 LRF XP50 Thermal Riflescope: Best Thermal Scope for Hog Hunting

The Pulsar Trail 2 LRF XP50 is a fantastic thermal riflescope.

In fact, it’s the best thermal scope you can buy for hog hunting.

(If you’re unsure if you need a thermal or NV scope, read this article.)

Pulsar crammed a ton of hi-tech features into this scope, and managed to keep the price much lower than their competitors, too.

Want to know if the Trail 2 LRF is for you? Read on to find out.

Image Clarity & Reticle

The Trail 2 LRF produces one of the clearest digital images I’ve ever seen in a scope.

Usually, when I use a thermal scope, I can tell when I’m aiming at heat, but I can’t tell what that heat is coming from. Most thermal scopes just produce a blob of white.

But the Trail 2 LRF shows every detail. I can clearly see and identify what I’m aiming at, whether it be a hog or a coyote. This is because of the advanced thermal sensor in the scope, which can detect heat up to 2000 yards away.

In fact, this scope has such a clear image, I can use it in full daylight with no problems at all.

Speaking of range, the Trail 2 LRF has a built-in laser rangefinder that displays the range to target right there in the display. No more guessing the distance to the hog — just raise your rifle, aim and shoot.

This scope also lets you swap between white-hot and black-hot modes. Between that and the 13 different reticles, I was able to find the perfect settings for every shooting scenario.

Recording and Streaming

The Trail 2 is so advanced that it connects wirelessly to your smartphone or tablet for easy recording and streaming of your hunts.

If you want to show off your hunts on YouTube or Twitch, this is definitely the scope for you!

I personally like the recording feature because I’m not the best shot in the world, and sometimes my target will try and run before falling. The recording makes it really easy to spot the location and see which direction the hog started running in.

This makes it easier and quicker to find your game after the kill.

And you don’t have to remember to press the “Record” button. The Trail 2 detects when you fire a shot and automatically records from there, so you never have to worry about missing the action.

Recorded footage is stored in the scope and can be easily downloaded to your smart device or computer once you get back home. Reliving a great hunt has never been easier!

Eye Relief

The eye relief is right under 2 inches.

This took me a little getting used to, but once I got a feel for the extended eyepiece, I had no issues at all maintaining eye box.

2 inches is a little closer than I would normally mount a scope, but you need a close relief with thermal scopes. I’ve never had any issues with scope bite and I’ve used this scope on multiple calibers of rifles.

Durability

With the Pulsar Trail 2 having so much tech, I thought this thing would be fragile.

But was I wrong.

The Trail 2 LRF was recoil tested by Pulsar for up to 12 gauge/.357 H&H. I can confirm that first hand.

Plus, the scope can be submerged in up to three feet of water and still be completely fine.

The scope is fogproof, dustproof, and frost resistant as well. So you can take this scope into any field conditions and not have to worry about breaking it.

Zeroing

Zeroing was insanely easy.

The Trail 2 uses the Pulsar “One Shot Zero” function to ensure quick and easy zeroing right out of the box.

And I’ve taken mine on dozens of hunts and had no issues with the scope straying from zero at all.

Plus, this scope allows you to save up to three different profiles, and each of these profiles has up to five range settings that you can save.

This means that you can set this scope up for 3 different rifles and swap it out between them without having to do any major settings changes.

I love this feature because it means I can zero my Trail 2 on my three favorite rifles (ex: go from my AR to my M1A) and pick which one I want to use on the night of the hunt.

Magnification

You get 1.6-12.8x magnification from this scope.

I’ve noticed no image quality issues at all even when I zoom in to max.

Also, you can either use 2x steps or zoom smoothly. The 2x steps are nice and quick for when you need to zoom in on your target fast, and the smooth zoom is nice for when I have time to be more precise.

This is great for hog hunting, when your targets could come out of the treeline at almost any range without warning.

My favorite feature on the Trail 2 though is the Picture in Picture Zoom. Picture in Picture mode puts the zoomed in image in the top portion of the display while still showing the whole zoomed out image behind it.

The Picture in Picture mode makes it really easy to zoom in on your target for a good shot while still being able to keep an eye on your background. You don’t want to miss your hog and hit some cattle because you couldn’t see it grazing just behind your target!

Accessories

The Trail 2 LRF comes with some great accessories out of the box.

It’s got a carrying case, USB cord, cleaning cloth, and a battery charger. (Also, even though it comes with its own charger, I’ve found that any micro-USB charger will work!)

The scope also comes with a weaver rail and hex wrench for mounting to your rifle of choice.

And no need for flip caps — the Trail 2 already has one built-in on the objective lens.

Is the Pulsar Trail 2 LRF XP50 Thermal Riflescope worth it?

All in all, the Pulsar Trail 2 is an incredible thermal riflescope at about half the price of the competition.

It’s got:

• 1.6-12.8x magnification
• Picture in Picture mode
• Built-in laser rangefinder
• Detailed, clear thermal image
• 13 different digital reticles to choose from
• Easy automatic recording and streaming to your smart device

And if all that wasn’t enough, the Trail 2 LRF comes with Pulsar’s 3 Year Warranty.

If you want to feel like the Predator on your next hunt and need the best thermal scope for hog hunting, then the Pulsar Trail 2 is for you.

Now It’s Your Turn

I hope you enjoyed my best scope for hog hunting guide.

So as a recap:

If you’re looking for the best hog hunting scope, get the Leupold FX-II Ultralight 2.5×20.

Looking for the best scope for fast target acquisition? Choose Trijicon ACOG 3.5×35.

How about the best night vision scope for hog hunting? Then opt-in for ATN X-Sight 4K Pro 5-20x.

Lastly, if you are looking for the best thermal scope for hog hunting, I’d recommend Pulsar Trail 2 LRF XP50 Thermal Riflescope.

That said, you can’t go wrong with any of these options. After all, I have hand and torture tested all the above scopes, and proved to be reliable.

Now I want to turn it over to you:

Which rifle scope will you pick for your hog hunting?

Let me know by leaving a quick comment down below.

What is the best long range muzzleloader for you in 2024?

Muzzleloaders have come a long way from the more primitive flintlock and percussion cap traditional muzzleloaders carried by most hunters in the 18th and 19th centuries. Indeed, the most advanced long range muzzleloaders available today offer capability that rivals the performance delivered by traditional centerfire rifles.

However, the situation can be pretty confusing at times. The big manufacturers are constantly introducing new muzzleloading rifle models each year, but they’re not always legal to use where you plan on hunting. Additionally, it’s also sometimes really tough get past the hype and media promotion that surrounds all new products in the outdoor industry.

From one hunter to another, trust me when I say that I’ve experienced a lot of that same frustration myself.

While there are some outstanding long range muzzleloader choices these days, they’re not all the same and some are much better choices for certain hunters than others. At the same time, some are legal to use in certain states, but not others.

Things are constantly changing on that front. Additionally, as you’ll learn here soon, the big manufactures have specifically designed some of their long range muzzleloaders to be legal for use during the muzzleloader seasons in many states.

So with all that in mind, I’m sharing my picks of the best long range muzzleloaders for hunters in 2024 so you can make an informed decision and choose the best long range muzzleloader for you.

Remember: rules and regulations regarding hunting with a muzzleloader can vary quite a bit from state to state. Certain muzzleloaders may be legal to hunt with in one state, but illegal to use during muzzleloader season during a neighboring state. It’s up to you to check local regulations in order to verify that you’re using legal equipment.

Before we get started, here’s a disclaimer: some of the links below are affiliate links. This means I will earn a small commission if you make a purchase.

This commission comes at no extra cost to you. This helps support the blog and allows me to continue to create free content that’s useful to hunters like yourself. Thanks for your support.

Now that we’ve got that out of the way, let’s get started.

CVA Accura LR-X

Basically, CVA designed the Accura LR-X muzzleloader to incorporate many of the great features of the CVA Paramount, but still use a standard 209 ignition with a regular magnum (instead of super magnum) powder charge.

So, the CVA Accura LR-X uses the new CVA X-Treme stock with an adjustable comb height to fit any shooter and optic selection. This is a great feature to help hunters obtain a proper cheek weld regardless of whether they’re using open sights or a scope. This is especially important for a long shot.

Like the Paramount line of long range muzzleloaders, the 30″ long barrel for the Accura LR-X is free-floated and has a threaded muzzle to accept the new Paramount Muzzle Brake. As you can imagine, these rifles have excellent accuracy potential and are great options for hunters who want great extended range performance without stepping up to the heavier and much more expensive CVA Paramount.

Additionally, the Accura LR-X is available in either .45 or .50 caliber. The .45 caliber version uses a fast 1:22″ rifling twist and the .50 caliber version uses a 1:28″ rifling twist. However, the really cool thing about these muzzleloaders is they can use the .45 or .50 caliber PowerBelt ELR bullets.

Especially with the .50 caliber LR-X, it’s important to use a full magnum charge (120gr of Blackhorn 209 or 3x 50gr 777 pellets) to get best accuracy with the PowerBelt ELR. That 1:28″ rifling twist will properly stabilize the longer PowerBelt ELR bullets and they’ll still reliably expand on impact, but only at higher velocities.

The upside is that these muzzleloaders will also shoot standard .45 or .50 caliber bullets (both full bore and saboted bullets) very well too.

In fact, CVA even offers a full money back guarantee for their Accura rifles if they aren’t the most accurate muzzleloaders you’ve ever shot.

Additionally, the CVA Accura LR-X comes with a Bergara barrel featuring a Nitride AND CeraKote finish on the exterior for even better corrosion resistance than a typical stainless steel barrel. Though it’s not totally corrosion proof, this Nitride and CeraKote finish is still extremely durable and resistant to corrosion, which is especially nice for hunters who live in wet climates.

The CVA Accura LR-X also has a lot of the same features of the standard CVA Wolf, Optima, Accura muzzleloaders like their Quick-Release Breech Plug, fully ambidextrous stock, and simple break open action.

Like I said, the CVA Accura LR-X is a less expensive and lighter alternative to the CVA Paramount that still has higher end features like a free floated barrel, adjustable stock, and the ability to use the more aerodynamic PowerBelt ELR bullets.

It uses a standard magnum powder charge, so muzzle velocities won’t be quite as high as with the Paramount, but the Accura won’t have quite as much recoil either. The Accura LR-X also uses 209 primers (instead of variflame ignition), but you can buy a conversion kit if you’d like.

All things considered, this is one of the best long range muzzleloaders CVA currently produces for those who want a little bit more reach without spending a lot of money, quite as much recoil, or as much weight. It’s also still a very flexible muzzleloader that will work really well with standard bullets at closer range if so desired.

For those reasons, this is a very flexible muzzleloader that will work great for deer hunting east of the Mississippi as well as game like mule deer, elk, and pronghorn out west where ranges can be a little longer.

• Overall Length: 45″
• Barrel Length: 30″
• Weight: 8.1lbs
• Sighting System: Iron Sights & Drilled/Tapped For Scope Mount or With Mounted Scope
• Caliber: .45 or .50 Caliber Magnum
• Ignition System: 209 Primers

BUY A CVA ACCURA LR-X HERE

Remington 700 Ultimate Muzzleloader

Since first hitting the market nearly a decade ago, the Remington 700 Ultimate Muzzleloader (UML) was the only real option for hunters wanting a good factory production long range muzzleloader (the Gunwerks muzzleloader and many of the various smokeless muzzleloaders are a custom job that’s significantly more expensive). Indeed, it was the best long-range muzzleloader in mass production for many years by the simple fact that it was the only real option for hunters who didn’t want a custom muzzleloader.

Remington has gone through a lot of turmoil in recent years, but they’re back in business now and producing the Remington 700 UML again (along with many of their other popular firearms).

Don’t let the fact that the Remington 700 UML is an older design (compared to the other muzzleloaders on this list) keep you from purchasing one either. It is still one of the best long range muzzleloaders money can buy.

What makes the Remington UML special?

Instead of a musket cap or a standard 209 primer, the Remington UML uses a special brass magnum rifle casing and a standard magnum rifle primer. This ignition system allows the muzzleloader to safely use up to 200 grains of black powder substitute, which is significantly more than most other muzzleloaders.

That’s even more propellant than the much newer CVA Paramount normally uses.

The Remington Model 700 Ultimate Muzzleloader was designed to use 250 grain Barnes Premier muzzleloader bullets that have a special sabot designed to handle those exceptionally large powder charges.

This bullet doesn’t have a very high BC like the PowerBelt ELR bullets used by the Paramount, but the Remington 700 UML can shoot those bullets at a very high velocity since it can use such a large powder charge.

While the Paramount might have an edge at longer range, the Remington 700 UML is no slouch either. Indeed, the Remington 700 is a very accurate muzzleloader, has a great barrel, uses the Remington adjustable X-Mark Pro trigger.

The fact that the Remington Ultimate muzzleloader is designed to use Barnes bullets is a definite plus for some hunters who like the terminal performance delivered by those bullets. The same goes for those hunters who want (or are required) to hunt with lead free bullets.

All things considered, it’s highly regarded among muzzleloader hunters and is still a very capable tool for hunting situations out to approximately 300 yards, maybe a little farther depending on conditions. For all those reasons, the Remington Model 700 Ultimate Muzzleloader is another good choice if you’re looking at long range muzzleloaders.

• Overall Length: 47″
• Barrel Length: 26″
• Weight: 8.5lbs
• Sighting System: Iron Sights & Drilled/Tapped For Scope Mount or With Mounted Leupold/Vortex Scope
• Caliber: .50 Caliber Magnum
• Ignition System: Remington UML Ignition

BUY A REMINGTON 700 ULTIMATE MUZZLELOADER HERE

Traditions Vortek Strikerfire VAPR LDR

Traditions decided to go a slightly different direction from most of the competition with their Strikerfire line of long range muzzleloaders. Instead of using a traditional external hammer for ignition, the Traditions Vortek Strikerfire LDR incorporates an internal striker for ignition.

Similar to the firing pin system used by many modern firearms, this Strikerfire ignition system results in noticeably faster lock times and also allows hunters to mount their scope closer to the bore.

Additionally, Traditions also recently introduced their new VAPR barrels with a faster rifling twist. Instead of the 1:28″ twist that’s common with typical modern inline muzzleloaders, the Traditions VAPR barrels use a faster 1:24″ rifling twist. This allows hunters to use heavier and more aerodynamic bullets like the .50 caliber PowerBelt ELR.

Don’t worry, the Traditions Vortek Strikerfire LDR VAPR will still work great with lighter bullets, especially at shorter range. However, this does give that added capability at greater distances for hunters who want and/or need it.

It’s not quite as good at longer ranges as the CVA Paramount and Remington 700 UML. However, Traditions Vortek Strikerfire VAPR LDR with its 30-inch barrel is still a capable long range muzzleloader that’s available at a much lower price than those other muzzleloaders.

Additionally, this muzzleloader has a great, adjustable two-stage trigger that comes from the factory set at two pounds. It also has a Cerakote finish for corrosion resistance. The whole rifle weighs in at 6.8 pounds, which makes it by far the lightest rifle on this list of long range muzzleloaders.

All things considered, these features make the Traditions Vortek Strikerfire LDR VAPR one of the best long range muzzleloaders for hunters on a more strict budget.

So, if you want something with a little bit more reach than a typical modern inline muzzleloader without making the jump all the way up to the Paramount or even the Accura LRX, then the Traditions Vortek Strikerfire LDR VAPR is the long range muzzleloader for you.

• Overall Length: 46″
• Barrel Length: 30″
• Weight: 6.8lbs
• Sighting System: Drilled/Tapped For Scope Mounts or With Mounted Leupold/Vortex Scope
• Caliber: .50 Caliber Magnum
• Ignition System: 209 Primers

BUY A TRADITIONS VORTEK STRIKERFIRE VAPR LDR HERE

Note: CVA temporarily suspended production of all Paramount models during 2024 due to an ongoing lack of components (Blackhorn 209 and large rifle primers) for the end user. These are fantastic long range muzzleloaders, but their utility is severely hampered by the lack of availability of primers and powder right now. Be certain you can source appropriate components before purchasing one!

CVA Paramount

The Remington 700 Ultimate Muzzleloader (UML) was the best option for a long range muzzleloader for many years. However, that changed in 2019 with the introduction of the bolt-action CVA Paramount muzzleloader.

Not only did the Paramount likely dethrone the UML as the best long range muzzleloader, but the CVA Paramount was so successful that CVA introduced two new CVA Paramount models in recent years as well: the Paramount HTR and Paramount Pro.

We’ll talk about the CVA Paramount HTR and CVA Paramount Pro in more detail in a minute.

So, what makes the CVA Paramount line of long range muzzleloaders special?

CVA markets the Paramount line as capable of taking big game at ranges over 300 yards due to their outstanding accuracy, relatively flat trajectories, and really good resistance to wind drift.

The designers at CVA did this through a few important design principles.

First, the base model Paramount is a .45 caliber muzzleloader designed to use a “super magnum” charge of up to 160 grains of loose powder. This is significantly more than the 120 grain maximum charge of Blackhorn 209 other muzzleloaders typically use.

Second, the muzzleloader uses special adapters originally developed by Cecil Epps that permit the use of large rifle primers for hotter, more consistent, and faster ignition than with standard 209 primers.

Third, unlike most muzzleloaders, the CVA Paramount has a 26″ free-floating stainless steel Bergara barrel with a very fast rifling twist rate to stabilize the long, high BC bullets designed for use with these rifles. While most modern muzzleloaders have a 1:28″ twist rate, the Paramount has a 1:22″ twist rate.

Since the barrel is free-floated for better accuracy, the Paramount uses a collapsible ramrod that fits in an included pouch for use afield instead of storing the ramrod under the barrel.

Finally, CVA teamed up with PowerBelt to develop a line of new, extremely aerodynamic muzzleloader bullets specifically for the Paramount: the PowerBelt Extended Long Range (ELR). Each version of the PowerBelt ELR has a very high ballistic coefficient, so they retain energy and resist wind deflection exceptionally well.

The base model Paramount uses a .45 caliber 285gr PowerBelt ELR bullet.

Combined with the very high velocities that can be obtained by using super magnum charges of powder, this results in a very flat bullet trajectory for a muzzleloader that rivals the trajectory of some centerfire rifle cartridges.

The standard Paramount has a Bergara HMR stock that has adjustments for length of pull and cheek height and an internal aluminum chassis for rigidity. It also has an outstanding trigger and is just very easy to shoot accurately. Current production Paramounts also have a threaded muzzle and can use a muzzle brake to reduce felt recoil.

The end result is a long range muzzleloader that’s capable of incredible accuracy, has much less bullet drop at extended range than a typical muzzleloader load, and retains enough energy for impressive terminal performance on a wide range of game out past 300 yards.

CVA claims sub-MOA accuracy at 300 yards is very achievable with the Paramount and this has been my experience with this muzzleloader at the range.

All things considered, the CVA Paramount was a massive step forward in long range muzzleloader development and has been extremely well received by the hunting community. If you want an outstanding long range muzzleloader, then you really need to consider the CVA Paramount.

• Barrel Length: 26″
• Weight: 9.8lbs
• Sighting System: Accepts Remington 700 Pattern Scope Mount or With Mounted Leupold/Vortex Scope
• Caliber: .45 Caliber Magnum
• Ignition System: Vari-Flame Ignition

BUY A CVA PARAMOUNT HERE

CVA Paramount Pro

CVA introduced the Paramount Pro muzzleloader in 2020 as an upgrade to the original Paramount. While the CVA Paramount is an outstanding long range muzzleloader, the Paramount Pro is even better.

Here’s why.

Hunters had three primary complaints about the original CVA Paramount.

First, recoil is pretty stout, especially with maximum powder charges. Next, the original Paramount was pretty heavy. Finally, the .45 caliber Paramount was not legal to use for hunting all game in all states.

So, designers at CVA worked to address those issues with the CVA Paramount Pro.

Additionally, they also made a few other changes to improve the already impressive ballistic performance of the original CVA Paramount and make it an even better all-around long range muzzleloader.

First, the CVA Paramount Pro has an upgraded Greyboe Terrain Stock. This stock is quite a bit lighter than the original Paramount stock and is better for hunting applications, especially in rougher terrain.

Tipping the scales at 8.2 pounds, the CVA Paramount Pro weighs about a pound and a half less than the 9.8 pound CVA Paramount.

The stock isn’t adjustable like the original CVA Paramount stock (which is more akin to a stock for a target shooting rifle than a hunting rifle), but Paramount Pro models designed for use with a scope do have a raised cheek for proper alignment with an optic.

Next, the Paramount Pro was designed from the start with a threaded muzzle to accommodate a muzzle brake to reduce felt recoil. This has been a welcome feature for Paramount shooters and has been so well received that current production Paramount models also have a threaded muzzle.

With regards to ballistics and legality in certain states, the CVA Paramount Pro is available in .40 caliber, .45 caliber, and .50 caliber versions.

The .40 caliber version of the Paramount Pro fires the .40 caliber 225gr PowerBelt Extended Long Range (ELR) bullet, the .45 caliber version fires the same 285gr PowerBelt ELR as the regular Paramount, and the .50 caliber version fires a 330gr PowerBelt ELR.

Capable of firing up to a 150gr charge of Blackhorn 209, the .40 caliber Paramount Pro has the flattest trajectory of any mass produced muzzleloader available today.

Indeed, CVA advertises that maximum loads for the .40 caliber Paramount Pro are approaching .300 Win Mag trajectories inside 400 yards!

That is some incredible performance that surpasses the already impressive ballistics of the .45 caliber Paramount. This is because the .40 caliber has an even higher BC than the .45 caliber PowerBelt ELR and can be fired at a faster muzzle velocity.

For comparison, the .40 caliber ELR has a BC of .360 and the .45 caliber ELR has a BC of .333. A 150gr charge of Blackhorn 209 (by volume) will propel the .40 caliber ELR at 2,740fps and the .45 caliber ELR at 2,300fps.

This is incredible performance for a muzzleloader with both bullets, but especially so for the .40 caliber ELR and the Paramount Pro.

Unfortunately, some states require larger caliber muzzleloaders for certain types of hunting. At the same time, a few states also prohibit the use of telescopic sights during muzzleloader season.

In particular, Colorado is an especially popular state for muzzleloader hunters that has a .50 caliber minimum for elk hunting and also prohibits scopes during muzzleloader season.

Well, CVA designed versions of the Paramount Pro to address those issues as well.

The Pro version is available in .50 caliber (which is legal for hunting deer, pronghorn, bear, elk, and moose all over North America). While some models are drilled and tapped for a scope, the Paramount Pro is also available with the outstanding Williams Western Precision Sight Set, which is the best mass produced muzzleloader sight available these days.

In addition to all of that, the CVA Paramount Pro uses a fully adjustable Trigger Tech trigger. The trigger on the Paramount is very good, but it doesn’t get much better than a Trigger Tech trigger, which allows for rapid adjustments by ounce between 1.5 and 3.5 pounds.

The Paramount Pro also has a 26” Nitride treated Bergara barrel with a Flat Dark Earth CeraKote finish for corrosion resistance. The .40 caliber versions have a 1:20″ rifling twist while the .45 caliber and .50 caliber versions use a 1:22″ rifling twist rate.

Aside from those changes I just discussed, the CVA Paramount Pro still incorporates a lot of the same features and design principles as the original Paramount.

This includes a free floated barrel, the VariFlame ignition system, and the ability to use “super magnum” powder charges (though only 150gr instead of 160gr of Blackhorn 209 by volume with the original Paramount).

With all that in mind, the CVA Paramount Pro is certainly one of the best (if not the best) of the long range muzzleloaders currently available for hunters with a variety of needs and desires.

For instance, a hunter looking for the best long range muzzleloader for use in states like Colorado that require a .50 caliber muzzleloader for hunting certain animals and/or prohibit the use of a scope should buy a .50 caliber CVA Paramount Pro.

Likewise, a hunter that’s not restricted by a .45 or a .50 caliber minimum that wants the absolute best long range muzzleloader with the absolute flattest trajectory, then go with a .40 caliber CVA Paramount Pro.

Finally, the .45 caliber CVA Paramount Pro is a good choice for those who are required to use a .45 caliber muzzleloader at a minimum, but want a lighter and generally nicer muzzleloader than the original Paramount.

• Barrel Length: 26″
• Weight: 8.2lbs
• Sighting System: Williams Western Precision Sights, Accepts Remington 700 Pattern Scope Mount, or With Mounted Leupold/Vortex Scope
• Caliber: .40, .45, or .50 Caliber Magnum
• Ignition System: Vari-Flame Ignition

BUY A CVA PARAMOUNT PRO HERE

CVA Paramount HTR

Introduced in 2021, the CVA Paramount HTR is a new muzzleloader that’s the newest model of the Paramount and occupies something of a middle ground between the original Paramount and the Paramount Pro.

The most significant change with the Paramount HTR is that it’s equipped with a hunting (as opposed to a target) oriented adjustable stock with a Realtree Hillside camouflage pattern. It has the same 8.2 pound weight as the Paramount Pro, but that adjustable stock is a very nice feature.

Available in either .40 or .45 caliber, the Paramount HTR also uses a 26″ fluted and Nitride treated Bergara barrel that’s threaded for a muzzle brake and the same trigger as the original Paramount. It also uses the same .40 and .45 caliber PowerBelt ELR bullets as Paramount and Paramount Pro muzzleloaders of the same caliber.

Of course, it still has a trajectory approaching what can be obtained with many center-fire rifles, especially in .40 caliber.

Since it is the latest iteration of the Paramount series, the CVA Paramount HTR also has many of the same features as the other Paramount models like a free floated barrel, the VariFlame ignition system providing that more consistent large rifle primer ignition, the ability to use “super magnum” powder charges, and is threaded for a muzzle brake.

Not surprisingly, the CVA Paramount HTR is a little more expensive than the original CVA Paramount, but is less expensive than the CVA Paramount Pro.

This makes sense because it has a few advantages over the original Paramount, but lacks a few features of the Paramount Pro.

With all that said, the CVA Paramount HTR is another outstanding long range muzzleloader. The .40 caliber version in particular is another great choice for a hunter wanting a really flat trajectory, while the .45 caliber version is excellent for hunters who want a lighter muzzleloader than the original Paramount that doesn’t cost as much as the Paramount Pro.

• Barrel Length: 26″
• Weight: 8.2lbs
• Sighting System: Accepts Remington 700 Pattern Scope Mount or With Mounted Leupold/Vortex Scope
• Caliber: .40 or .45 Caliber Magnum
• Ignition System: Vari-Flame Ignition

BUY A CVA PARAMOUNT HTR HERE

The CVA Paramount long range muzzleloaders also made cut for my holiday gift recommendations. To see what other stuff is on the list, check out the following article:

101 Best Gifts For Hunters

While this post covers the right long range muzzleloaders, that’s only a single part of the equation when hunting with a muzzleloader. For more detailed information on choosing the right primer, propellant, bullets, sights, and scopes, check out these other articles:

15 Of The Best Muzzleloader Primers For Igniting Your Powder

Blackhorn 209 vs 777 vs Goex Black Powder: Which One Should You Use In Your Muzzleloader?

These Are The Best Brands Of Black Powder and Black Powder Substitutes You Should Be Using In Your Muzzleloader

13 Of The Best Muzzleloader Bullets For Hunters

Best Muzzleloaders For Hunters In 2024

9 Best Muzzleloader Scopes For Hunters

These Are The Best 9 Best Muzzleloader Sights For Hunters

5 Best Traditional Muzzleloaders For Hunters

Essential Muzzleloader Supplies Every Hunter Needs

How To Hunt With A Muzzleloader

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NEXT: HOW 11 BEST HUNTING EAR PROTECTION OPTIONS FOR HUNTERS

By: DIY_guy

We all want to use goods quality products on our guns, bows, fishing gear, knives, autos, hunting and lake front gear and like you I?m not a fan of letting things get rust on them nor am I a fan of items wearing out prematurely. To protect my investment in gear, I began searching for rust inhibitors and lubrication solutions to make the maintenance of my gear as effective and efficient as possible but I understand that neglect is the primary cause of corrosion and wear and we must be diligent but having a corrosion inhibitor and lubricants aiding us in meeting those goals is helpful.

The problem is there are so many products on the market all making claims of how well they perform. Who do you trust? What is one to believe? Online searches turned up all manner of comparisons, reviews and evaluations of a couple of products here and a few more there but no large sampling of a really long list of products all compared at the same time. So that?s what I set out to do to determine for myself which product I want to use as a rust inhibitor and lubricant. Along the way I will also look at water displacement (a common claim) as well as reactions with non-metal components. The attributes I set out to evaluate are:

Water displacer:

Many of the products I purchased for this evaluation make claims in regards to being a water displacer or that they have water displacing properties. Its an interesting claim but it got me to wondering why I should care?? I thinks its great if a product displaces water does it adds to a products worth or usefulness?? We all know that moisture is everywhere from fog to rain to snow to humid environments to warm to cold condensation as well as sweat and dew. so perhaps the water displacement claims are meant to drive us to their products with promises of improved protection so I plan to investigate that claim.

Smell/odor:

Because my primary passion is bowhunting followed by gun deer hunting, scent/odor is important to me. If a product stinks to high heaven I am less likely to use it even if it offers other benefits. Gauging odor is pretty subjective since something that smells bad to me might be appealing to the next person. I will evaluate odor as best as I can.

Lubrication:

How well does the product lubricate? And in what state, meaning does it reduce friction better in its wet form or in a dry form after its wiped away/allowed to dry? If it offers the most friction reduction in a wet form but that wet form is a magnet for dust, dirt and carbon, then its counterproductive because that wet lube becomes a gritty sludge. If it can be applied, wiped dry and still reduce friction (while fighting rust) that would be preferred. I will investigate lubrication.

Compatibility:

How safe is it for plastics, rubber and gun finishes and coatings?

That a fair question since these products are expected to be applied to guns, bows, knives, fishing gear, etc that are composed of a variety of non-metallic materials and finishes/coatings. A product that displaces water and inhibits rust is great but if it melts your plastic and rubber and destroys the finish on your gun, its destined for the trash can. I plan to investigate compatibility as well.

Corrosion inhibition:

That?s the primary reason for this evaluation. I plan to investigate these products compared to one another for their ability to delay the formation of corrosion.

The goal here is to find a product that does the best job at inhibiting corrosion, reducing friction, does not harm plastic, rubber or finishes, displaces waters and does not force me to wear a gas mask to apply. A product that can do all of the above may not exist but I?m willing to find out.

The next question was “Which products?” Until now, my stable of gun/bow/tool care products was pretty small. Like most sportsmen I had my “go-to” products because that is what my local retailer carried. I hadn’t thought much beyond availability and then fell into a comfort zone with those products. I took to the web and did a search as well as asking for suggestions on a couple of web forums and learned many of these products have passionate followers even if I had never heard of them. Was I missing out on a superior product????

The next step in the process was to take out a 2nd mortgage and buy up as many products as I could get my hands on and then wait for the brown truck to become a daily fixture in my driveway. The products I will be evaluating (in no particular order) are

Here is the entire ensemble of products I used ?in this evaluation.

Here are the products marketed and sold for gun care/maintenance.

You probably recognize many of the products in the lineup. Most are dedicated products marketed to the sportsman for this purpose but some are products that over the years have been used by sportsmen that are not necessarily marketed for this purpose. One such example is simple paste wax and Kroil which were recommended to me by people living in coastal environments. Another is WD 40 and 3 in one oil which have been used by everyone that owns metal since the 1940’s. These are not marketed as a gun care products but since they are used by so many in that regard, they were thrown into this evaluation for comparison sake. All products were purchased from either local retailers, online or at gun shows with the exception of the Pennzoil motor oil. I secured that from the local speedy oil change location and only a small amount for this evaluation.

First up is an evaluation of Smell/odor:

Because my primary passion is bowhunting followed by gun deer hunting, scent/odor is important to me. If a product stinks to high heaven I am less likely to use it even if it offers other benefits. Gauging odor is pretty subjective since something that smells bad to me might be appealing to the next person. I will evaluate odor as best as I can.

While this evaluation might seem firearms-centric I?m hoping to come away with products that I will also use during bowhunting trips on things like my bow, broadheads, knives, pruning saws, treestands, climbing sticks, camera arms and other items I take afield as well as my firearms and hunting gear that I want to protect from corrosion. For that reason, odor/scent is something I pay close attention to. Some of these products have an odor that is present straight from the container that dissipates quickly after drying while some products continue to smell long after application. A strong odor even if its pleasant is still a strong odor and something I hope to avoid in the products I use.

I created the following ranking for odor.

No odor

Mild odor

Strong odor

And then any notes about the particular odor. I wrote down the first thing that popped into my head after taking a wiff of each product. See the data below.

**NOTE**This exercise may not account for much once you factor in the dissipation factor once dry and the scant amount left after wiping off the excess product but since I had to use each product I noted the smells and recorded them.

Next up in this evaluation is the water displacement claim. In regards to water displacement, the implied message is that the product, if applied to a wet gun/bow/tool will drive out (displace) the moisture and then protect the metal from moisture and corrosion. This is a pretty easy claim to prove or disprove since the very definition of displacement occurs when an object that is introduced to water, pushes the water out of the way and takes its place (displacing the water). If a product simply floats on top of water, it does not ?displace? it.

If the product doesn?t break the surface tension of water, penetrate and displace the water to reach metal parts, then for the purposes of this evaluation It won?t be counted as a water displacer. In contrast, those products that break the surface tension of water, displace the water and penetrate it will be counted as water displacers. This will be done with the raw product directly from their container and NOT the dried or cured product after the propellant, carriers or distillates evaporate or dissolves.

The process of evaluating water displacement is as follows.

1. A container is partially filled with water

2. Raw product (from its original container) is introduced to the water filled container.

3. The product is observed and noted as to whether it displaced (penetrated, broke the surface tension) of the water or whether it simply rested on top of the water.

It should be noted that the ability of a product to displace water does not automatically imply that it will inhibit rust or provide lubrication. A rock or brick (if placed in a container of water) will displace water but will offer no corrosion protection or lubrication. Simply because a product can actually displace water does not automatically translate into corrosion inhibiting or lubrication properties.

Rust inhibiting and lubrication will be evaluated separately but so many of the products made a point of claiming water displacing properties that I thought it worth evaluating. In the grand scheme I dont know if water displacing is going to amount to a hill of beans since lubrication and corrosion fighting can take place even if the product does not displace water but so many of the products made the displacement claim that I opted to evaluate it.

Results: The vast majority of the products evaluated DID NOT displace water. 3 in one oil is a good example. It was in no way a water displacing agent but to its credit, it does not claim to be.

Rather than listing each product and whether or not it displaced water, Here are the only 3 that DID displace water as well as a look at 3 in one oil as a comparison. The water displacing products are:

The picture above can be a bit deceiving. The 3 water displacers look as if a thin film of product is floating on the water. That is not the case. What you are seeing is the surface tension of the water acting like a mirror. You can tell by looking closely to see the reflection of the top of metal hex nut that looks to be floating on that thin film. There was no floating compound on the surface of any of the 3 products. I then rolled and tilted and shook the bottle to see if the compound clung to the metal surface and kept water off the metal part. In all cases, the metal part was coated in the compound and resisted water clinging to the metal. After this agitation I allowed the bottles to rest for an hour to see if the compound separated or changed in any way after being exposed to the water. No change was noted. I did however observe some changes to the plastic bottle that held the Strike hold product. Notice the impact Strike Hold had on the plastic bottle. That leads me to the next area of interest.

Compatability:

Next up is evaluating compatibility with non-metal compounds. This is a tough claim to challenge since there are more plastic and rubber compounds and types of finishes than anybody could possibly check. Some products clearly stated they are not safe for rubber or plastic or finishes and cautioned the user to first test on a discrete location. Other products stated they are safe for (or outright encouraged use) on finishes, leather, wood, etc while still others made no warning nor statement in this regard. A simple check for reaction is to place a small amount of each product on polystyrene (Styrofoam) and observe the reaction. We know what Gas and Acetone do to Styrofoam and we wouldn?t use those harsh products on our gun finish or plastics or rubber so I will use that as a base for this evaluation. Compounds known to destroy polystyrene are Gasoline, Benzene, Toluene, Acetone, Xylene. There are other agents harmful to polystyrene but you get the point. Since its not practical to do a compatibility evaluation with every known type of plastic and every type of gun finish and paint, I only tested polystyrene and took the warnings about compatibility from the product labels.

The majority of the products did not harm nor soften polystyrene. Here is the sheet I used for the evaluation.

Here is an easier to read image of the products in this evaluation that dissolved polystyrene. It should be noted that all 3 water displacers were harmful to the evaluation sheet of polystyrene yet 6 other products that were not water displacers were also harmful to the sheet.

lubrication:

The reduction of friction/heat in moving metal parts is what I evaluated next. Many of the products make claims in regards to lubrication meaning a reduction in friction/heat/wear. (some make fantastic claims) To evaluate lubrication claims I will evaluate static friction forces. If you slept through your science/physics classes, Static Friction is the force that resists the movement of two objects against one another when the objects are initially at rest. To evaluate the lubrication claims I made a simple device to evaluate static friction forces. Two polished steel surfaces are used to mimic firearms parts. Its size and length of travel was meant to mimic the travel of the action of your typical firearm. A force is applied to cause the weighted steel sled to begin moving on a steel track. Increasing amounts of water are added to a container that is tethered to the weighted sled until the weight is great enough to overcome friction and move the sled. The weight of that water will be recorded to establish a factor compared to dry steel against dry steel.

To establish a baseline value for two dry steel surfaces, the exercise was repeated 8 times and then an average was established. Each product will be evaluated by applying the product to both surfaces and recording the amount of weight (force) required to get the weighted sled to move and then repeating the exercise 8 times to arrive at an average force.

Here are a few photos of the device used to capture static friction forces.

Here is a brief video of the device in action. (note that in an effort to make the video as short as possible I poured the water faster then I will during the actual evaluation)

How much lube to use:

We have all been instructed to apply lubrication liberally and to wipe off any excess. This seems counter intuitive if you consider something like packing a wheel bearing or using a grease zerk where metal parts are suspended in a bath of lubricant. Gun parts, folding knives, fishing reels and tools however are tightly toleranced with almost no room for large volumes of lubricant but aside from space constraints, excess lubricants cause an increase in effort required to get parts moving. I?m not versed in fluid dynamics but I quickly learned what happens when too much lubricant is applied. Being curious about what I observed I took to the web to review terms such as ?Cohesion?, “Adhesion”, ?Fluid tackiness?, “Viscosity” and “Fluid shear” which explained what I was observing.

Excess lubricant acted like a glue that slowed or resisted parts from movement because of the surface tension and viscosity of the excess lube. As I removed more and more of the excess, I observed that less force was required to overcome static friction. In almost every case I found that removing all visible lubricant resulted in the lowest levels of friction between the two polished steel plates. What we have been told is correct, apply liberally to coat and then remove all excess to the point where you think you have removed too much and you will enjoy the least amount of friction. The side benefit to that dry level of lubrication is that it will not attract foreign contaminants that could get trapped in excess/wet lubricant.

To ensure there is no cross contamination of products on the sled/track device, after each product is evaluated, the sled and track are cleaned with acetone and paper towels until the dry to dry friction values were restored. Several dry runs are performed before the next product was evaluated.

NOTE** I recognize this evaluation may have deficiencies. My lubrication evaluation was conducted at 70 degrees F so it is unknown if the results would be the same if evaluated at 0 or 120 degrees F. Also I am not evaluating longevity. I cycled each product 8 times to arrive at an average force and understand that a product that performed well during 8 cycles may fail long term where a product that performed slightly worse may in fact have better long term lubrication. With that said, equity was my first priority. Every product and action was conducted the same way to ensure each product was getting a fair evaluation.

I recorded the results of the force required to move the sled and used a spreadsheet to tabulate the results for this chart.

To ensure that I was getting credible data and to increase my confidence level, I conducted the lubrication evaluation a 2nd time because as you can see, one product (Frog Lube) in the first evaluation reduced friction so much that I could no add water to the container. Simply hanging the empty container on the device caused the sled to move. For the 2nd evaluation I added weight to the sled and raised the end of the track to create a 10 degree upward slope meaning the sled would have to slide up-hill with the added weight. The results changed but not by much. The top 10 performers remained the top 10 and the bottom 10 remained the bottom 10. The products did jockey each other for position within their respective groups. Here is a chart showing the results from the 2nd evaluation for friction. To make it a little easier to read I am showing only the top 10 performers and the bottom 10 performers in their new rankings.

Corrosion protection:

Lastly I evaluated corrosion protection and inhibiting. It?s a common claim made by the products in this evaluation so I want to evaluate that as well. Some of the products state that they meet or exceed this test and spec or that test and certification (the most common being ASTM B117 and ISO 9227 salt fog chamber corrosion test and a variety of mil specs. ) All of those tests are very good and harsh controlled environment tests but where I found them lacking was:

1. No UV component. All the tools and gear I use spend a lot of time outside and UV rays break down even the best of products . Those UV effects are not mimicked in a sealed fog chamber in a lab.

2. Constant temps. Our gear is expected to perform in subzero to super-hot temps and sometimes those fluctuations may happen all in the same day or week. A fixed 95 degree F test is certainly equitable to all the samples but not a true environmental test with real world applications for a guy that hunts in freezing temps and then brings his gun into the cabin where it sets near the wood stove to dry out and then is returned to sub-freezing temps the next day.

3. Proximity and cross contamination. Since it?s just not cost effective to test each metal plate all by itself in a fog chamber, many samples are ganged together in a small test chamber. Being that the test chamber is only so big, they are positioned very near one another and samples are misted with the same recycled salt water carrying the corrosion from products failing the test (and the products being tested) onto samples adjacent to other parts. I hope to avoid that.

4. No real life dirt or debris. The wind carries all manner of debris on it that rests on metal parts (some more than others) An outdoor evaluation more closely simulates real ?in the field? situations.

For these reasons (and because I plan to sample far more products than has perhaps been done at the same time during any other evaluation conducted) and because I want to increase my confidence level in the results I get, I conducted 3 evaluations. Many of the home spun evaluations I have seen online ran only a single sample set implying the results would be the same if repeated. I ran 3 separate evaluations under a variety of conditions. A portion of this evaluation took place outdoors in direct sunlight with the fluctuations of night and daytime temps as well as UV exposure and wind, airborne debris and rain. Rain or not I planned to mist one group of the sample plates with a salt / water solution in the ratio of 1 tsp non-iodized salt per cup of tap water (and I have hard water with mineral deposits). This will be the most harsh environment meant to expedite the formation of corrosion.

All the sample plates were given a 320 grit (two direction) brushed finish to remove any rust inhibitors the steel maker placed on the steel so they don?t rust in the store. Then the plates were chemically cleaned with acetone prior to applying the product. Each product in the evaluation was applied to the metal per the product instructions on the label. Nearly all products labels direct the user to apply liberally and then wipe off excess product. I followed those instructions as I don?t care for a sloppy, wet gun where excess product is dripping or rubbing off, onto my clothing, gear or car. I left an amount of product on the metal just as I would when I store my firearms. The plates were attached to a suitable (non-metallic) holder at a roughly 15 degree angle from vertical. I didn?t want them lying flat so water would pool on them and I didn?t want them standing perfectly upright either as they would shed water and debris too easily.

All the metal samples were sheared out of the same sheets of cold rolled steel sourced at my local hardware store. Several of these sheets were purchased for this evaluation.

Here is sample board #1 after all the products had been applied to the sample plates. This sample board then sat in my shop for 5 hours to allow the products to fully dry or cure or evaporate or set a film before the board was exposed to the elements.

Here is a short video of all the samples on board #1.

Then the samples were misted with the salted water. Here is a closer view of the plates after the misting. Notice the different reactions with water. Most plates beaded the water.

Not all products beaded water. I don?t know the significance of this but observed and recorded it anyway. The products that did not bead water can be seen below.

After 2 hours I observed the samples. The controls were already exhibiting signs of corrosion. White spots are the result of the salt left behind after the water evaporated and does not indicate rust, just dried salt.

The plates spent the night outside and it was quite a night. Temps in the upper 30’s, a storm rolled through with wind gusts to 30 MPH and on and off rain. 24 hours after each product was applied to the plates they were observed for signs of corrosion.

**NOTE** Before I go further I will state that during the process of applying the products to the plates, I had to hold the plates by the very edges. The last contact with the plates was along the very top edge as I pushed the sample into the foam board. Some samples took considerable force to place them in the foam. For this reason I will not count against the products that are essentially corrosion free but exhibit corrosion along the edges where otherwise the bulk of the surface is corrosion free. The edge rusting is a result of my handling the samples and removing the product.

Here is sample board #1 after 24 hours

Some of the corroded samples. (some with only light corrosion and others with significant corrosion)

Here is a video of sample board #1 after 24 hours. It?s still quite windy as you will be able to hear in the video. Pause and restart as required to get a better look at samples of interest to you.

I recorded the samples with mild rusting and major rusting after 24 hours. The samples exhibiting mild rusting were

Rand CLPBallistolBreakfree CLPHoppe’s MDLRusteprufeBoeshield T-9Rem Oil w/ moisture guardATF

The samples exhibiting significant rusting were

KroilPB-50Rem Oil (regular)GunzillaSuper LubeMilitec-1Hoppe?s EliteAce Silicone GreaseAtsko Silicone SprayPennzoil3 in One oilRIG #2GibbsPaste waxBoth Controls

After 24 hours of exposure, 22 of the 46 products (48%) have already begun to show signs of corrosion but remember, the samples were misted with a salt water solution to speed up the process. The 2nd and 3rd group of plates will NOT have a salted water application.

After 48 hours of Board #1 being placed outside, here is a list of the products on board #1 that are still preventing corrosion.

CRC 3-36

M-Pro 7 LPX

Fluid Flim

Archoil AR4400

Quicken HP

Clenzoil

Barricade

Corrosion X

Frog Lube

Eezox

Hoppe?s gun oil

One Shot

WD-40 Specialist

Gun Seal

Rust Prevent

After 72 hours (and lots of wind and rain), the un-corroded sample plates on board #1 are

After 96 hours (and a mostly rain free day) here are the remaining plates from board #1 still protecting from corrosion.

After 120 hours with a day of light rain, the remaining samples have dwindled to just 3.

Another day of on and off rains and the final three are still holing on.

A rare sunny and windy day. 168 hours (7 days) have elapsed since I placed Board #1 outside. No change from the day before.

At this point I will close out the evaluation of board #1 (but continue to monitor) Here is a picture of the entire board.

Here is a video so you can get a better look at each sample. Start and stop the video as you see fit. Despite the constant rains and clouds, the UV rays have taken their toll on the sharpie marker used to denote each brand.

The second group of plates was also evaluated outdoors and started the day after board #1. The metal samples were treated with product and then sat in my shop for 12 hours to dry, cure, evaporate, film-over before the board was placed outside. Here is sample board #2

Here is a short video close up of all the samples on board #2. Even though I crossed off Frog Lube a couple days ago because of the formation of corrosion you will see its still doing a pretty good job of protecting the plate.

The plan was to mist them with clean water but with all the rain that was not required. The duration of the evaluation was a mix of sunny and bright and heavy rains but very windy exposing the samples to UV, wind, rain, dust and all the other elements we encounter when using our firearms, bows, knives, tools, etc. It was a time to conduct such an experiment.

I?m sure everybody living in my area of the state hated this wet stormy spring weather except me. I couldn?t have picked a better set of days to do this evaluation. Upper 30?s to low 40?s, high winds, on and off showers and breaks of sunlight and cold rainy nights. Its like living in a corrosion test chamber.

Most evaluations of this nature run a single set of samples and call it good enough. I?m running 3 sample boards and already I am seeing differences in results from board #1 to board #2 so I think it was a wise move to run multiple samples. Recall that board #1 was misted with a salted water solution to expedite corrosion. Sample board #2 has only seen exposure to rain water but the results after 24 hours are showing sample board #2 is has more product failures than board #1 in its first 24 hours (something I did not expect to see). When I observed sample board #1 after 24 hours, a total of 23 samples exhibited signs of corrosion. Sample board #2 has been outside for 24 hours and already 34 of the 46 products are exhibiting signs of corrosion (74% of the products are failing)

Oddly, the controls on board #2 (which are treated with nothing) are faring better than some of the plates that are protected by product (opposite of what was observed on board #1)

Here is a photo of sample board #2 after the first 24 hours.

It?s a shorter list to name the products that are still providing resistance to corrosion on Sample board #2. They are.

Gun Seal

WD-40 Specialist

Hoppe?s gun oil

Boeshield T-9

Frog Lube

Rust prevent

Tuf-Glide

Rem Oil with moisture Guard

Weapons Shield

Hornady One Shot

Militec-1

Rand CLP

Here is a video of board #2 so you can see which products are failing in the first 24 hours. (don?t confuse debris with rust. The video may make it look like some plates are corroding when they are actually use dirty from all the wind blown debris and rain)

After 48 hours, the un-corroded samples from board #2 are shown below (I contend that the Hornady ?s One Shot, edge corrosion shown below is edge contamination on my part as described earlier. I can?t otherwise explain why the majority of the plate is corrosion free expect a strip along the left edge except that I failed to apply the product to that portion of the plate.)

Its clear that if I had only used a single sample board, I would have arrived are incorrect conclusions about some of these products. Multiple boards that show products preventing corrosion on those boards increases the confidence level in the evaluation.

With a break in the rains here are the remains of Board #2

More rain and the list is growing shorter.

After 120 hrs, Board #2 is down to the final 3.

144 hours and no change from the day before. Based on board #1 and no change in board #2 I am ending the evaluation of board #2

Here is a picture of Board #2

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c2…ps567f25ba.jpg

Here is a video of Board #2 so you can get a close up view of each product. Pause and restart as you see fit.

By now you may have noticed some commonality in the remaining samples of board #2 and board #1. Results would indicate that

Hoarnady’s One shot

WD 40 Specialist

And perhaps Frog Lube

Have shown they outperform the others with Rust Prevent also doing a heck of a job. Running multiple boards has increased my confidence level in the results observed. But there is a third corrosion evaluation (the indoor one) that started the same day and Board #2. I will remind you that Board #1 and #2 were extreme conditions (abuse) simply to expedite the formation of corrosion under salted water and rain water conditions (as well as fog, cold temps, temp fluctuations, lots of wind and some UV rays thrown in for good measure). It?s doubtful any gun, bow, knife or tool owner is going to subject his gear to this in real life but that is the nature of such an evaluation. By design it was meant to be tough. Board 3 will more closely mimic conditions seen while storing our gear.

The third and final Board will be a combination evaluation. One portion will focus on the fingerprint issue on firearms and the other portion of the evaluation deals with longevity. This evaluation will be conducted indoors with no application of water to speed up corrosion.

Here is sample board #3 with all the plates coated in their respective products. Sample Board #3 sat in my shop for 4 hours to allow all the products to dry or cure or evaporate or skim over (some products make claims in this regard) then each was given a fingerprint on the metal. We all have different oils and acids and salts in our fingerprints so not every fingerprint will cause the same level of corrosion. I don?t have 48 fingers and washing after each sample to prevent cross contamination would only remove the salts and oils from my finger so I had to outsource the fingerprint job to a friend (we will call him “Frank” or “Oscar”) because I will substitute a hotdog for a finger.

Like me the hotdog is made mostly of meat (with some fillers) water, salt and fat (in my case perhaps too much fat) to prevent cross contamination, a fresh slice was made off the end of the sacrificial wiener to provide an equitable fingerprint on each sample plate. A nice greasy and salty fingerprint was placed in the lower left hand corner of each sample.

Sample board #3 will spend its time in my dinning room and be observed for signs of corrosion.(Until my wife gets sick of it and makes me move out into my shop)

Board #3 will be observed and photographed and at the point plates begin to fail (determined as rust appearing on the surface) they will be tallied until all the samples have failed and I expect at some point all will eventually fail. It may take weeks or months (perhaps years) for that to happen to sample board #3. As of this writting its been 9 days with no signs of corrosion on any plates.

As for me, Here is what I took away from this (even though Board #3 is still being observed)

With this evaluation behind me, I an unlikley to condsider the WD 40 specialist as a gun care product because it wasnt marketed as a cleaner (not meant to be a cleaner so I cant knock for that) and it didnt rank terribly high for lubrication but I will be using it for many other outdoor applications and tools where I want to delay corrosion. The column of my drill press, the top of my table saw, my lathe, saw blades, hand tools and lots of other tools will benefit from its ability to protect from rust.

Frog lube impressed in both lubrication and corrosion inhibition but I wonder how good a cleaner it is? The mfgr website touts it as a cleaner but I am uncertain. (only speculation on my part)

Hornady’s One Shot strikes me as more of a cleaner than Frog Lube and WD 40 specialist (speculation on my part) and it certainly performed well as a lube and corrosion inhibitor.

Final thoughts

1. There are two enemies to our guns. Neglect and liberal Democrats who dislike the 2nd amendment. Do everything in your power to make sure neither are allowed to make any advances on your weapons.

2. Use these products in a well-ventilated area and wear gloves. Health is your first wealth. Protect it like you do your gear.

3. Water displacing claims don?t mean much. None of the 3 water displacers performed well in the corrosion or lubrication evaluation.

4. Don?t over lube. Its far worse than under lubing. Wipe off the lube to the point you think you may have taken off too much and you should be just about right.

5. Not all gun care products are created equal. Choose wisely. Knowledge is power. I have a little more thanks to this evaluation.

6. If you have had a preferred gun care product that has served you well for many years, there is no need to change even if your product did not fare well in this evaluation. If your outdoor gear functions well and is corrosion free and you are happy with the product and like the smell, why fix what isn?t broken. See note 1.

7. This WAS NOT an evaluation of all the gun care products on the market. It was only an evaluation of the 46 products I assembled for this evaluation. If your favorite product was not included in this evaluation, all anybody can do is speculate as to how it WOULD have performed. While seaking suggestions for which products to include in this evaluation, The recommendations I received came with comments about how I needn’t to look any further than their preferred brand as it is the best of the best. In spite of asking for suggestions on multiple forums, nobody recommended Hornady One shot. I found it via a web search at Midway’s web site. Frog lube was suggested by many. If there is a better product out there, I will no doubt hear about soon by those lamenting the fact it wasn’t included in this evaluation.

8. Since I now have more product than any person should own, I may entertain conducting another evaluation with additional products to see how they stack up against the top 5 from this evaluation. I’ve set aside the friction test bed (after coating it with WD 40 specialist to prevent rust) just in case I get the urge.

Edited May 6 9. I am In no way affiliated with or in any way attached to any of the products or companies of the products I evaluated. I am in no way compensated by any product brand name or manufacturer as a result of this evaluation. No company asked me to conduct this evaluation. All products were purchased by me and none were sent or gifted to me for this evaluation.

Upon completion of this evaluation I sent emails to several of the manufacturers of the products used. Thus far (4 days after sending the emails) I have received only one reply and it came from the founders of Frog Lube. Here is that reply.

?Ron,

We are stunned by the exhaustive and comprehensive approach of your testing. And we are quite flattered at the result. You have done something no one else has done.

We do our testing in primarily in operating firearms, but we have done some technical tests such as the corrosion and lubricity testing and have seen the same results.

May we use this link to share with our customers on line and in our facebook page? We have lots of fans (and a few competitors) who would appreciate seeing this.

Also, we very much appreciate your ‘objectivity’ and your public claims. This strengthens the validity of your results.

Thanks again for sharing this profound work with us.

Larry Lasky & Stacy LaskyFrogLube Founders ?

—-

I replied to them with the following:

?Feel free to share or distribute the info as you see fit. Prior to this evaluation I had never used Frog Lube (or many of the products I evaluated) so I was curious and ended up doing this evaluation. My search for lube and corrosion solution was not entirely firearms centric as I am more of an archer and bowhunter so I would like to make this request. Archery and Bowhunting are very large markets with direct overlap to firearms owners. The same holds true for the rapidly increasing crossbow and crossbowhunting market. All of these user groups require lubrication and corrosion solutions.

The main difference for the bowhunting and crossbow hunting market is the scent/smell of products we use due to how close bowhunters and perhaps crossbow hunters have to get to prey to make a successful shot. The minty smell of Frog Lube may keep this user group from using your product. Would it be possible to remove the minty scent and create a scent free version? Breaking into the archery/bowhunting and crossbow hunting market would create another demographic purchasing your product. Please consider it. You would certainly have me as a customer for more than just firearms usage.

Ron?

Its been 288 hours (12 days) since Board #1 was placed outside and 264 hours (11 days) for Board #2 so I thought I would update. There has been some rain this week but lots of sun and wind and the trees are spreading all manner of pollen and debris in the air. The Sun?s UV rays have all but made the sharpie marker unreadable but I have a map and can still make it out enough to see.

Here are the two boards where they are residing on the patio.

And here are the close-ups of the samples.

As for Board #3 in my house. Its been 240 hours (10 days) and as expected, the indoor protection in a constant environment has them all still in fine shape.

?

We have been experiencing torrential rains and flash flooding. When it isn?t raining its very humid. Its certainly been a wet spring. The UV rays have now completely erased the sharpie marker labels on the boards but I know which is which from prior photos. Here is a picture of the two boards with board #1 at 15 days (360 hours) and board #2 at 14 days (336 hours). The top 3 performing products are continuing to protect the steel plates.

Its been 20 days since I started board #3 which is the indoor board with the (hotdog) fingerprint.

The first (and only) sample so far to exhibit corrosion has appeared. The rust is only in the fingerprint area. The sample plate is the one coated with Eezox.

Update on the two outdoors corrosion boards. Hornady One shot has finally failed on Board #2 Leaving Frog Lube and WD 40 Specialist but the Hornady product is still going strong on board #1.

maxammodepot.com Review

The Scam Detector’s VLDTR® finds maxammodepot.com having a low authoritative rank of 20.00. This means that the business is characterized as Suspicious. Unsafe. Doubtful. 
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Our Approach to maxammodepot.com’s Evaluation

In the Company Details section above, you encountered a few tabs, each warranting thorough scrutiny. Here they are again, this time in detail.

While some aspects may be self-evident regarding maxammodepot.com, let’s now shift our focus to the other elements.

Proximity to Potentially Harmful Online Entities

This metric quantifies the degree of association, rated on a scale from 1 to 100, between maxammodepot.com and websites identified as suspicious. Higher scores suggest a more significant connection to these contentious online entities.

However, many website owners may not always be aware of their site’s proximity to these questionable servers or platforms. However, if the “Proximity to Suspicious Websites” score exceeds 80, it strongly indicates a high-risk website, while a score below 30 could be harmless.

Risk Evaluation: Threat, Deceptive Practices, Malware, and Spam Scores

These parameters provide insights into potential vulnerabilities and components integrated into the HTML code of maxammodepot.com. Their significance escalates when the website has received reports from online users who’ve encountered unsolicited emails, deceptive advertisements, or unwanted messages associated with the site. As for maxammodepot.com, we’re currently categorizing it, but we welcome your input in the comments section below.

A high Malware score typically signifies the presence of suspicious code that might unknowingly propagate. On the other hand, a high Spam score suggests a potential association with a spam-ridden email address linked to the business. Scores below 30 in both categories offer a measure of security, but any score surpassing this threshold should raise concerns.

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Status of Domain Blacklisting

This term reveals whether maxammodepot.com has been blacklisted on any online directories and labeled as suspicious.

You have all the details, it’s in your hands they way you want to deal with this website.

Evaluating the Security of the HTTPS Connection

This tab provides insight into whether maxammodepot.com incorporates an ‘s’ at the end of the ‘HTTP’ protocol visible in your browser’s address bar. While some individuals may lack an in-depth technical understanding, we won’t delve into those intricacies here. If the tab appears in green, consider it a positive indicator.

Once common in the Rocky Mountain West, trumpeter swans have been a rare sight for more than a century after hunters blasted them from the sky to cash in on their skins and plumage, then in demand for women’s hats and other accessories.

Now the bird, North America’s largest and the world’s heaviest capable of flight, is coming back strong in parts of its historic range, thanks to reintroductions and prohibitions on hunting them. Yet, in Utah, they are falling in growing numbers to hunters gunning for a different species of swan.

It remains legal to shoot trumpeters in Nevada and Utah, at the southern reaches of the species’ range, if the hunter mistakes them for their smaller-bodied cousin, the tundra swan, which can be hard to distinguish from a trumpeter in flight. Utah hunters killed very few trumpeters through the years, probably because few trumpeters migrated that far south from their summer range in Idaho and Montana.

That changed this year.

Swan hunters shot 20 migrating trumpeters this fall, forcing Utah wildlife officials to close the tundra swan hunt early and leaving them wondering how so many trumpeters wound up in Utah, which could bode well for the species’ future.

“There was a higher number of trumpeter swans harvested this year because there were more migrating through Utah than in previous years,” said Blair Stringham, the Utah Division of Wildlife Resources’ migratory game bird program coordinator. “We also increased the number of swan permits in Utah from 2,000 to 2,700 this year, which meant more hunters were targeting swans than in past years.”

The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service requires Utah and Nevada to close their swan hunts once a certain number of trumpeters are killed, a number that is set very low. In previous years, the trumpeter quota was 10 for Utah, five for Nevada, but the service doubled the quotas this year. Still, Utah hunters had never before hit the lower quotas and the highest number of trumpeters ever taken in a single season was seven.

Shooting a slow-flying, big-bodied bird may seem like a cinch, but swan hunting has a low success rate in Utah, around 40%. Stringham said 1,100 birds were bagged in this year’s hunt.

“It’s easy if you know what you are doing,” said hunter and author Hank Shaw, who bagged a tundra swan in 2013 while hunting in northern Utah’s Bear River Migratory Bird Refuge. Distinguishing a tundra from a trumpeter swan in flight is not that difficult, he said, as long as you know what to look for — which Utah requires of hunters before issuing them a coveted swan permit.

Weighing as much as 33 pounds, trumpeters are twice as large as tundra swans and produce a sonorous call that gives them their name. Tundra swans’ heads are curved and have a yellow patch on the fleshy part of their black bills near the eyes. Trumpeter heads are blockier and the bills are entirely black.

“You wait for them to get close enough for you to be absolutely sure,” said Shaw, famous for turning his prey into exquisite meals. “I prefer to shoot the juveniles. Immature swans have dark feathers and you can distinguish them at 20 or 30 yards. They are better eating.”

Never listed as endangered

In recent decades, the Rocky Mountain population of trumpeters has rebounded in the wake of aggressive reintroduction programs in Northwestern states. The 20 trumpeters killed by Utah hunters won’t have an impact on a bird that now exceeds its target population of 10,000 adults and subadults, according to Gary Ivie, president-elect of the Trumpeter Swan Society, a nonprofit dedicated to the species recovery.

“The purpose of those quotas is to minimize population-level impacts of harvest to the Rocky Mountain trumpeter swans and ideally to avoid ‘hunter take’ of trumpeter swans as much as feasible,” Ivie wrote in an email. “Even if trumpeter swans were not authorized for take in Utah, some number of trumpeters would be taken by accident, mistakenly by hunters.”

Yellowstone National Park, where hunting has been banned since the 1870s, provided a safe haven for trumpeters back when they were targeted relentlessly, as well as year-round open water due to the region’s thermal features. By 1900, only 70 trumpeters were known to remain in the wild and the only known breeding population nested at Montana’s Red Rocks Lakes, which became a wildlife refuge in 1935 specifically to ensure the species’ survival.

The trumpeter swan was never listed under the Endangered Species Act, although some groups unsuccessfully lobbied for listing the Rocky Mountain population, which would have put an end to Utah swan hunting. While that population has come back from the brink, it has lost much of its migratory behavior.

So the trumpeters shot in Utah are not just any swans; they are travelers that would otherwise return north and convey their knowledge of migration to other swans. If they are not shot, these birds could help restore the species’ migratory patterns and expand its range south.

A small group of trumpeters, numbering about 200 swans, winters in Utah at Cutler Marsh in the Cache Valley, according to Stringham. Trumpeters have been seen on reservoirs on the Wasatch Back and as far south as Gunnison and at Browns Park on the Green River.

Three Westerns states — Montana, Utah and Nevada — allow tundra swan hunting, and Idaho is considering a hunt in its Panhandle counties. Twenty years ago, tundra swan hunting was controversial because of its potential impact on trumpeter recovery, so quotas were set very low and hunters were required to demonstrate an ability to distinguish between the two species. Hunters are also subject to strict reporting requirements to disclose how many days and where they hunted swans. Those who shoot a swan must bring the carcass to wildlife officials for inspection within 72 hours.

“It’s a big investment,” Stringham said. “We want to make sure we are doing the right thing.”

Law may not be helping

Hunting is hardly the most serious threat to trumpeters. Swans sometimes ingest old lead shot, which has been banned in waterfowl hunting for nearly 30 years, embedded in the muddy bottoms of ponds where they feed, leading to fatal poisoning. Between 1999 and 2005, lead poisoning is known to have killed 1,600 wintering trumpeters in Washington and British Columbia, according to the Pacific Flyway Council’s 2008 management plan.

As with most migratory birds, other threats to trumpeters include avian diseases, illegal shooting and collisions with power lines.

Few, if any, trumpeters were killed during hunts in Nevada and Utah a decade ago, and those states’ trumpeter quotas were increased incrementally.

Since 1995, Nevada swan hunters have killed a grand total of 16 trumpeters, according to Aaron Meier, spokesman for the Nevada Department of Wildlife. Nevada swan hunters reached the trumpeter quota only once, in 2017, when the cap was five birds.

No one expected Utah hunters to take 20 trumpeters in a single season, Stringham said, but earlier this month, a 20th dead trumpeter was recorded by DWR officials, who ended the 63-day hunt two days early, on Dec. 6.

The high number of trumpeters killed in Utah may have been the result of an earlier than usual migration, spurred by a severe cold snap in October, according to Ivie. He and Shaw agreed that Utah’s increase in tundra swan permits may have also been a factor since it put more swan hunters in the field this fall.

But Shaw has another theory: Rules that allow swan hunters to keep trumpeters they kill give unscrupulous hunters an incentive to deliberately target the wrong swan.

“I suspect some are selfish hunters who just wanted to bag a trumpeter,” said Shaw, who lives in Folsom, Calif., and hunts in Utah every year.

Many hunters prize swans as a trophy, making it impossible for the meat to be eaten. That’s a shame, according to Shaw, a former newspaper journalist who writes about the culinary joys of game meat and foraged plants.

While rarely eaten, swan meat is full of delightful surprises.

“You would think it would be goosey, but it’s more ducky, tight grained, very flavorful,” Shaw said. “The fat was delicious. I plucked it all the way to the chin and used the neck as a sausage skin.”

Polar bears and grizzly bears are both members of the bear family, Ursidae. They are similar in many ways, but there are also some important differences between them. One key difference is size: polar bears tend to be much larger than grizzlies.

Polar Bears Vs Grizzly Bears Size

One average the Polar Bear is bigger in size than the Grizzly bear. A typical adult male polar bear is more than twice the size of a typical adult female grizzly!

Lets analyze both these beasts in terms of their weight, height & length:

Polar Bears Vs Grizzly Bears Weight

• Adult male polar bears typically weigh between 600 pounds (272 kg) and 1,500 pounds (680 kg), while adult female polar bears weigh between 330 pounds (250 kg) and 550 pounds (250 kg).
• Adult male grizzlies usually weigh between 400 pounds (181 kg) and 800 pounds (363 kg), while adult female grizzlies typically weigh 300 pounds (136 kg) to 400 pounds (181 kg).

So in terms of weight, the polar bears are heavier than grizzly bears.

Polar Bears Vs Grizzly Bears Height

On all of its four legs

• The height of the polar bear is 1.2 to 1.6 meters (4 to 5.3 feet) while that of female polar bear is 0.81 to1.19 meters (2.8 to 3.11 feet).
• The height of the male grizzly bear is 1.07 to 1.37 meters (3.6 -4.6 feet) while that of female grizzly bear is 0.91 to 1.12 meters (3 to 3.8 feet).

So in terms of shoulder height the polar bear is taller than the grizzly bear.

When Standing on its Hind Legs

• Adult Male Polar Bear Height is 2.4 to 3 meters (5.9 to 9.8 feet)
• Adult Female Polar Bear Height: 1.8 to 2.4 meters (5.9 to 7.8 feet).
• Adult Male Grizzly Bear Height: 2.13 to 2.44 meters (7 to 8 feet).
• Adult Female Grizzly Bear Height: 1.7 to 1.98 meters (5.6 to 6.6 feet).

So when the bears are standing on their hind legs, the polar is taller than the grizzly bear.

Polar Bears Vs Grizzly Bears Body Length

• The body length of a male polar bear is between 2.6 – 3 meters (8.6 to 9.10 feet) while that of female polar bear is 2.4 to 2.8 meters (7.2 to 9.2 feet).
• The body length of a male grizzly bear is between 2.13-2.44 m (7 to 8 feet) while that of female grizzly bear is 1.7-1.98 meters (5.6 to 6.6 feet).

So in terms of body length, the polar bear is taller than the grizzly bear.

The Biggest Ever Polar Bear vs The Biggest Ever Grizzly Bear

• The biggest polar bear ever recorded was in 1960 which was 3.9 meters (12.8 feet) tall and weighed around 2,209 lbs i.e 1,002 kg.
• One of the tallest grizzly bears ever recorded in captivity was called Goliath. It lived at Space Farms Zoo and Museum – Sussex, NJ between 1967 and 1991. It was 3.7 meters (12 feet) tall and weigh a short ton.

So when it comes to the biggest ever bears on record, the polar bear is bigger than the grizzly bear.

Polar Bears Vs Grizzly Bears Size Comparison

Polar Bear Grizzly Bear Male Female Male Female Weight 600-1,500 lbs 330-550 lbs 400-800 lbs 300-400 lbs Height on four legs 4 – 5.3 feet 2.8 to 3.11 feet 3.6 – 4.6 feet 3 to 3.8 feet Height on hind legs 5.9 – 9.8 feet 5.9 – 7.8 feet 7 – 8 feet 5.6 – 6.6 feet Body Length 8.6 – 9.10 feet 7.2 – 9.2 feet 7 – 8 feet 5.6 – 6.6 feet

Are polar bears bigger than grizzly bears?

Yes polar bears are bigger than grizzly bears. See the picture below to have a clear idea.

How Big is a Polar Bear