Welcome to our blog article on the intriguing topic of “700 rifle Names”! If you’re looking for some creative and captivating names for rifles, you’ve come to the right place. As firearm enthusiasts ourselves, we understand the importance of finding the perfect name that reflects the character and spirit of your weapon. As the renowned novelist Stephen King once said, “Fiction is the truth inside the lie.” In this case, these rifle names serve as an extension of the story you want to tell with your firearm.

As a Naming Specialist with three years of experience, I have delved into the fascinating world of naming various entities, including fantasy characters. The process of naming is an art that requires careful consideration of the qualities and characteristics you want to convey. It involves exploring the depths of imagination, drawing inspiration from various sources, and ultimately creating a name that resonates with its intended audience. With my expertise in this field, I am thrilled to share my knowledge and offer you a plethora of rifle names that will surely ignite your imagination.

In this article, you can expect to find a wide array of rifle names that are both distinctive and captivating. Whether you’re searching for a name that exudes strength and power, evokes a sense of history and tradition, or embodies a futuristic and technological vibe, we’ve got you covered. Our curated collection of 700 rifle names is designed to provide you with ample options, ensuring that you find a name that truly stands out from the crowd. Get ready to embark on an exciting journey of exploration and discovery as we unveil an assortment of unique names that will give your rifle the character it deserves.

Rifle Names

• Crimson Fury
• Vanguard
• Dominator
• Stormbringer
• Eclipse
• Venomstrike
• Thunderstorm
• Havoc’s End
• Silent Reaper
• Ironsight
• Valkyrie’s Grace
• Phoenix Rising
• Nightfall
• Shadowhunter
• Thunderclap
• Serpent’s Bite
• Death’s Whisper
• Annihilator
• Ghostwalker
• Warbringer
• Cyclone
• Sentinel
• Wrathbringer
• Midnight Reaper
• Seraph’s Wings
• Thunderbolt
• Steelstorm
• Maelstrom
• Hellfire
• Frostbite
• Viper’s Kiss
• Celestial Guardian
• Stormchaser
• Harbinger
• Ironsoul
• Wraithwalker
• Thunderstrike
• Phantom’s Veil
• Grim Reaper
• Eclipse
• Shadowstrike
• Venomous Vengeance
• Searing Sunfire
• Nightshade
• Frostfang
• Obsidian Sentinel
• Thunderous Roar
• Reaper’s Embrace
• Ashen Fury
• Stormrider
• Ironheart
• Silent Stalker
• Serpent’s Wrath
• Oblivion’s Call
• Cyclone Fury
• Twilight’s Shadow
• Ghostwalker
• Vortex
• Thunderclash
• Whispering Death
• Ravager
• Phoenix’s Flight
• Abyssal Abyss
• Lunar Eclipse
• Venomous Fury
• Silverstrike
• Voidwalker
• Frostfire
• Nightstalker
• Seraph’s Salvation
• Thunderous Echo
• Ironclad
• Shadow’s Embrace
• Venomfang
• Inferno
• Frostwind
• Midnight Howl
• Serpent’s Scales
• Annihilation
• Stormbringer

20 Rifle Names With Meanings

1. Shadowsteel – Forged in darkness, strikes unseen.
2. Valkyrie’s Resolve – Empowers warriors with determination.
3. Thunderclash – Unleashes a deafening storm of power.
4. Seraph’s Salvation – Protects and delivers divine justice.
5. Nightshade – Conceals the user in shadows, deadly.
6. Phoenix’s Retribution – Rises from ashes, avenges with fire.
7. Ironsight Guardian – Ensures unwavering accuracy and protection.
8. Glacier’s Embrace – Freezes enemies with icy precision.
9. Cyclone Fury – Sweeps through foes with unstoppable rage.
10. Abyssal Devastator – Plunges enemies into eternal darkness.
11. Razorwind – Cuts through opposition with razor-sharp precision.
12. Elysian Vanguard – Radiates heavenly strength and unwavering defense.
13. Eclipse Requiem – Darkens the world, sings the dirge.
14. Midnight Serenade – Engages enemies with haunting elegance.
15. Astral Valkyrie – Soars above, guiding warriors to victory.
16. Thunderstrike Dominator – Overwhelms foes with thunderous might.
17. Wraith’s Whisper – Echoes through the void, bringing silent death.
18. Enigma’s Enforcer – Unravels mysteries, enforces unyielding justice.
19. Bloodmoon Avenger – Embodies the fury of the crimson moon.
20. Twilight’s Salvation – Shields allies with the gentle embrace of dusk.

Old Rifle Names

• Thunderstrike – Impressive and formidable weapon.
• Ironsoul – A rifle with enduring strength.
• Whisperwind – Silent but deadly.
• Shadowbane – Strikes fear into enemies’ hearts.
• Thunderclap – Packs a powerful punch.
• Vortexfire – Unleashes a whirlwind of destruction.
• Grimshot – Brings doom to its targets.
• Stormbringer – Controls the battlefield with its might.
• Ghostfire – Hauntingly accurate and deadly.
• Warhammer – A weapon of war’s fury.
• Valkyrie’s Breath – Sends foes to the afterlife.
• Grimjaw – Devours enemies without mercy.
• Silverstrike – Shines brightly in battle.
• Nightfall – Darkness falls upon the enemy.
• Thunderbolt – Strikes with lightning speed.
• Hellfire – Engulfs enemies in flames.
• Dragon’s Roar – A rifle of mythical power.
• Blackthorn – Pierces through armor effortlessly.
• Hailstorm – Unleashes a torrent of bullets.
• Wraithblade – Cuts through defenses like a ghost.
• Bonecrusher – Crushes all opposition.
• Grimshot – Sends foes to their graves.
• Widowmaker – Leaves no survivors.
• Crimson Fury – Bathes in the blood of foes.
• Deathwhisper – Brings doom from the shadows.
• Thunderstrike – Strikes fear into hearts.
• Ironsoul – Unyielding and unstoppable.
• Shadowbane – Cuts through darkness and enemies.
• Stormbringer – Controls the winds of battle.
• Vortexfire – Creates a whirlwind of destruction.

Sniper Rifle Names

• Serpent’s Gaze – Lethal precision from afar.
• Widow’s Kiss – Strikes with deadly accuracy.
• Silent Stalker – Virtually undetectable, a hunter’s delight.
• Moonshadow – Strikes under cover of darkness.
• Eagle Eye – Sees what others can’t.
• Whisperwind – A silent breeze that brings death.
• Frostbite – Freezes enemies in its sights.
• Phantom’s Embrace – Envelops targets in a deadly grip.
• Spectre’s Touch – Leaves no trace, only destruction.
• Aurora Borealis – A dazzling display of lethal skill.
• Obsidian Shard – Pierces the heart of the enemy.
• Nightstrike – Strikes fear into the night.
• Viper’s Fang – Deadly venom from a distance.
• Silent Thunder – Kills without a sound.
• Shadowshot – Destroys hope in a single shot.
• Storm’s Eye – Sees through the chaos.
• Vanquisher – Overcomes any obstacle with precision.
• Frostfire – Freezes the soul before the body.
• Valkyrie’s Whisper – Guides warriors to their fate.
• Death’s Gaze – Foretells the end of life.
• Silent Reaper – Claims lives without warning.
• Celestial Archer – A divine force of destruction.
• Ashen Wind – Burns everything in its path.
• Maelstrom’s Fury – Unleashes chaos upon the target.
• Lightning Strike – Strikes with unmatched speed.
• Stargazer – Maps the path of destruction.
• Stormcaller – Summons the wrath of nature.
• Dreadshot – Inspires fear with each shot.
• Mirage – Creates illusions of safety before the kill.
• Glacier’s Breath – Freezes time in its tracks.

Cool Sniper Rifle Names

• Enigma – Mysterious and deadly.
• Shadowstrike – Strikes from the shadows.
• Phantom’s Touch – Leaves no trace behind.
• Frostbite – Freezes enemies with fear.
• Eclipse – Darkens the enemy’s future.
• Spectral Fury – Haunts the battlefield.
• Nova – Explodes with unstoppable force.
• Thunderbolt – Strikes fear with lightning precision.
• Cyclone – Whirls through enemies with grace.
• Vortex – Devours all in its path.
• Venomous Serpent – Injects death from afar.
• Obsidian Reaper – Harvests souls from a distance.
• Arctic Gale – Blows away all resistance.
• Ragnarok – Brings about the end of worlds.
• Zenith – Reaches the pinnacle of lethality.
• Phoenix’s Wing – Rises from the ashes of battle.
• Voidwalker – Steps between dimensions to deliver death.
• Solstice – Brings light to the darkest of shadows.
• Thunderstrike – Shakes the earth with its power.
• Enigma – Unravels the enemy’s defenses.
• Shadowstrike – Lurks in the darkness, ready to strike.
• Phantom’s Touch – Ghostly accuracy from a distance.
• Frostbite – Freezes enemies to the bone.
• Eclipse – Engulfs the target in darkness.
• Spectral Fury – Unleashes a ghostly storm.
• Nova – Explodes with devastating force.
• Thunderbolt – Strikes with lightning speed.
• Cyclone – Whirls through enemies with ease.
• Vortex – Swallows enemies without mercy.
• Venomous Serpent – Injects lethal venom.

Assault Rifle Names

• Annihilator – Obliterates all opposition.
• Inferno – Burns enemies to ashes.
• Thunderclap – Unleashes a deafening roar.
• Havoc – Wreaks havoc on the battlefield.
• Viper’s Bite – Strikes with deadly precision.
• Warbringer – Brings destruction to the enemy.
• Stormbreaker – Shatters defenses like a storm.
• Ironsight – Locks onto targets with deadly accuracy.
• Grim Reaper – Claims souls without remorse.
• Omega – The ultimate weapon of war.
• Rapture – Sends enemies into a trance of destruction.
• Titanfall – Crushes all opposition under its might.
• Venomstrike – Injects lethal venom into foes.
• Obliterator – Erases enemies from existence.
• Blackout – Plunges enemies into darkness.
• Ravager – Leaves a trail of destruction.
• Firestorm – Engulfs the battlefield in flames.
• Sentinel – Guards the frontlines with unwavering resolve.
• Ironsoul – Indomitable spirit in the face of danger.
• Punisher – Dispenses justice with each bullet.
• Annihilator – Eradicates all traces of resistance.
• Inferno – Burns away enemies’ hopes.
• Thunderclap – Unleashes thunderous destruction.
• Havoc – Creates chaos in its wake.
• Viper’s Bite – Delivers a venomous strike.
• Warbringer – Brings war to the enemy’s doorstep.
• Stormbreaker – Breaks through defenses like a storm.
• Ironsight – Locks onto targets with precision.
• Grim Reaper – Claims lives without mercy.
• Omega – The end of all resistance.

Gun Rifle Names

Thunderstrike – Strikes with earth-shattering force.

Executioner – Dispenses swift and final justice.

Shadowfire – Burns enemies to cinders.

Warhawk – Dominates the battlefield with unwavering ferocity.

Nightbringer – Casts darkness upon its victims.

Tempest – Unleashes a storm of destruction.

Ironclad – A fortress of unstoppable firepower.

Venomfang – Inflicts deadly poison on its targets.

Hellstorm – Rains down chaos and devastation.

Grimshot – Strikes fear into the hearts of foes.

Thunderstrike – Unleashes a thunderous assault.

Executioner – Ends lives with ruthless efficiency.

Shadowfire – Consumes enemies in its flames.

Warhawk – Reigns supreme in the chaos of war.

Nightbringer – Shrouds the battlefield in darkness.

Tempest – Whirls through enemies with unstoppable force.

Ironclad – Invulnerable to opposition’s feeble attempts.

Venomfang – Inflicts lethal venom on its victims.

Hellstorm – Engulfs enemies in a fiery inferno.

Grimshot – Sends foes to their graves.

Thunderstrike – Shakes the very foundation of battle.

Executioner – Renders justice swiftly and mercilessly.

Shadowfire – Engulfs enemies in shadows.

Warhawk – Dominates the skies of war.

Nightbringer – Brings eternal darkness to the battlefield.

Tempest – Unleashes a relentless storm.

Ironclad – Invincible against all opposition.

Venomfang – Injects lethal poison into its targets.

Hellstorm – Unleashes a torrent of fiery destruction.

Grimshot – Strikes fear into the hearts of all.

Rifle Bullet Names

Thunderbolt – Strikes with electrifying speed.

Ironpiercer – Pierces through armor effortlessly.

Soulshatter – Shatters souls with each impact.

Annihilation Round – Erases enemies from existence.

Venomstrike – Delivers lethal poison on impact.

Shadowwhisper – Silent but deadly.

Reaper’s Kiss – Claims lives without mercy.

Maelstrom Round – Unleashes chaos upon the target.

Inferno Bullet – Engulfs enemies in flames.

Cyclone Round – Creates a whirlwind of destruction.

Thunderbolt – Strikes with lightning precision.

Ironpiercer – Pierces through defenses with ease.

Soulshatter – Destroys souls with each hit.

Annihilation Round – Obliterates all in its path.

Venomstrike – Injects deadly venom on impact.

Shadowwhisper – Silent but lethal.

Reaper’s Kiss – Seals the fate of its targets.

Maelstrom Round – Unleashes a storm of devastation.

Inferno Bullet – Sets enemies ablaze.

Cyclone Round – Sweeps away opposition effortlessly.

Thunderbolt – Strikes with electrifying accuracy.

Ironpiercer – Penetrates armor with ease.

Soulshatter – Crushes souls upon impact.

Annihilation Round – Eradicates all in its wake.

Venomstrike – Spreads lethal poison with each hit.

Shadowwhisper – Silently eliminates targets.

Reaper’s Kiss – Claims lives swiftly and mercilessly.

Maelstrom Round – Unleashes a whirlwind of destruction.

Inferno Bullet – Engulfs enemies in a raging fire.

Cyclone Round – Creates chaos in its path.

Rifle Scope Names

Hawkeye – Provides unparalleled vision and accuracy.

Thunderstorm – Enhances precision in the storm.

Shadowstrike – Brings enemies into focus from darkness.

Spectral Sight – Sees through obstacles and illusions.

Nightfall – Embraces the darkness to expose the enemy.

Valkyrie’s Gaze – Guides warriors to victory.

Guardian’s Eye – Watches over allies with unwavering vigilance.

Ghostwalker – Allows stealthy observation without detection.

Eclipse – Darkens the target, highlighting vulnerabilities.

Silent Serpent – Camouflages the user’s presence for a lethal strike.

Hawkeye – Unmatched vision and accuracy.

Thunderstorm – Sees through the chaos of battle.

Shadowstrike – Illuminates targets in darkness.

Spectral Sight – Peers into the ethereal realm.

Nightfall – Sees through the shroud of night.

Valkyrie’s Gaze – Guides warriors to their fate.

Guardian’s Eye – Keeps watch over allies.

Ghostwalker – Moves undetected through the shadows.

Eclipse – Darkens the enemy’s future.

Silent Serpent – Strikes without warning.

Hawkeye – Targets with unparalleled precision.

Thunderstorm – Cuts through the storm with clarity.

Shadowstrike – Strikes from the shadows with accuracy.

Spectral Sight – Sees what others cannot.

Nightfall – Reveals the enemy in the darkest hour.

Valkyrie’s Gaze – Leads warriors to glory.

Guardian’s Eye – Protects allies with unwavering vision.

Ghostwalker – Steps silently through the realm of shadows.

Eclipse – Veils the enemy’s path.

Silent Serpent – Strikes with deadly silence.

Famous Rifle Names

Winchester – A legend of the Wild West.

Mauser – Synonymous with precision and reliability.

Mosin-Nagant – A symbol of Russian firepower.

M1 Garand – Iconic American rifle of World War II.

AK-47 – The most widely recognized assault rifle.

Lee-Enfield – British marksmanship at its finest.

Remington 700 – Renowned for its accuracy.

Springfield 1903 –S. military staple of the early 20th century.

Barrett M82 – The mighty .50 caliber sniper rifle.

Henry Repeating Rifle – Revolutionary lever-action design.

Winchester – The Wild West’s most trusted companion.

Mauser – A testament to precision and reliability.

Mosin-Nagant – The pride of Russian firepower.

M1 Garand – America’s rifle of choice in WWII.

AK-47 – The iconic symbol of warfare.

Lee-Enfield – British marksmanship at its peak.

Remington 700 – Synonymous with accuracy.

Springfield 1903 – A staple of the U.S. military.

Barrett M82 – The king of .50 caliber sniping.

Henry Repeating Rifle – Revolutionized lever-action technology.

Winchester – A legend that defined the West.

Mauser – Precision engineering at its best.

Mosin-Nagant – The rifle that changed history.

M1 Garand – The rifle that won the war.

AK-47 – The rifle that conquered the world.

Lee-Enfield – A testament to British marksmanship.

Remington 700 – The embodiment of precision.

Springfield 1903 – A classic rifle of the early 20th century.

Barrett M82 – The epitome of long-range power.

Henry Repeating Rifle – An icon of innovation.

Cool Rifle Names

Havoc’s Wrath – Unleashes chaos on foes.

Serpent’s Fang – Strikes with lethal precision.

Stormbringer – Commands the power of nature.

Vengeance – Retribution with deadly force.

Eclipse – Engulfs enemies in darkness.

Thunderstrike – Electrifies the battlefield with power.

Phantom’s Whisper – Silently eliminates targets.

Ragnarok – Brings about the end of battles.

Venomstrike – Delivers deadly poison to foes.

Havoc’s Wrath – Unleashes unrelenting chaos.

Serpent’s Fang – Delivers a lethal strike.

Stormbringer – Controls the power of storms.

Vengeance – Strikes with unforgiving force.

Eclipse – Shrouds enemies in darkness.

Thunderstrike – Electrifies the battlefield with fury.

Phantom’s Whisper – Eliminates targets without a sound.

Ragnarok – Signals the end of conflicts.

Venomstrike – Inflicts lethal poison on foes.

Havoc’s Wrath – Unleashes devastation without mercy.

Serpent’s Fang – Pierces through defenses with precision.

Stormbringer – Commands the tempest of war.

Vengeance – Delivers retribution with deadly accuracy.

Eclipse – Casts a shadow over enemies’ hopes.

Thunderstrike – Sends shockwaves through the battlefield.

Phantom’s Whisper – Eliminates targets unnoticed.

Ragnarok – Brings about the apocalypse of battle.

Venomstrike – Injects lethal venom into its victims.

Havoc’s Wrath – Unleashes chaos with devastating force.

Serpent’s Fang – Strikes with deadly accuracy.

Stormbringer – Wields the power of nature’s fury.

How To Choose A Good Rifle Name

When it comes to firearms, choosing the right name for your rifle can be a deeply personal and meaningful process. A good rifle name goes beyond mere identification; it becomes an integral part of the rifle’s identity. As enthusiasts, we understand the significance of finding a name that reflects the essence and character of your firearm, creating a connection that goes beyond the physical. In this article, we will explore the art of choosing a good rifle name and provide you with insights and guidelines to assist you in this creative endeavor.

Understanding the Purpose

Before diving into the world of rifle names, it is essential to understand the purpose behind your firearm. Is it a hunting rifle, a target shooting rifle, or a self-defense firearm? Recognizing the role of your rifle will help you determine the direction for naming. Each purpose carries distinct connotations and emotions, which can be effectively conveyed through the right name. Take a moment to reflect on the intended use and the feelings you want your rifle to evoke.

Reflecting the Rifle’s Characteristics

Every rifle possesses its own unique set of characteristics, which can range from power and precision to elegance and craftsmanship. By analyzing these attributes, you can narrow down the qualities you wish to highlight in the name. For example, if your rifle is known for its exceptional accuracy, a name that signifies precision and focus would be fitting. Consider the materials, design, and performance of your firearm, and let these elements guide you in choosing a name that accurately reflects its essence.

Drawing Inspiration

Inspiration for rifle names can be found in a multitude of sources. History offers a treasure trove of ideas, with significant events, legendary figures, and iconic battles providing a rich tapestry of possibilities. Literature and mythology are also excellent sources, offering names that carry deep symbolism and cultural significance. Delve into these realms, exploring stories, legends, and epics to discover names that resonate with your rifle’s identity. By drawing inspiration from the past, you can infuse your firearm with a sense of heritage and significance.

Considering Personal Preference

Ultimately, the decision of a rifle name rests with you as the owner. Consider your personal preferences and style when choosing a name. Does a classic and timeless name appeal to you, or are you drawn to more modern and innovative choices? Your rifle’s name should reflect your taste and resonate with your own identity. After all, it is a reflection of your connection to the firearm and the story you want to tell.

Engaging Creativity

Naming a rifle is an opportunity to let your creativity soar. Brainstorm a list of potential names, allowing yourself to explore various themes, languages, and concepts. Experiment with wordplay, alliteration, or even combining different words to create a unique and memorable name. Push the boundaries of your imagination and challenge conventional naming conventions. This is your chance to give your rifle a name that stands out from the crowd.

Seeking Feedback

Sometimes, an outside perspective can provide valuable insights and suggestions. Share your list of potential names with fellow firearm enthusiasts or experts, seeking their opinions and feedback. They may offer fresh perspectives or point out nuances that you may have overlooked. Engaging in conversations and discussions can enhance your understanding of how others perceive the names and help you make an informed decision.

Testing the Name

Once you have selected a name that resonates with you, visualize your rifle with its chosen name. Imagine how it will look engraved or inscribed on the firearm. Consider how well the name aligns with the rifle’s overall identity and the emotions you intend to evoke. Testing the name in this manner allows you to evaluate its compatibility and determine whether it truly captures the essence of your firearm.

Conclusion

In conclusion, we hope this article has served as a valuable resource for those in search of the perfect name for their rifles. With our collection of 700 rifle names, we aimed to provide a diverse range of options to suit different preferences and styles. Remember, the name you choose for your firearm is not merely a label, but an opportunity to infuse it with personality and meaning.

Naming a rifle is a personal and creative endeavor, and we encourage you to explore your imagination and draw inspiration from various sources. Consider the purpose, history, and unique features of your rifle as you make your selection. Whether you prefer a name that reflects its power, pays homage to historical figures or events, or simply resonates with your own personal taste, there is a name waiting to be discovered within our extensive list.

We hope that the names we’ve shared in this article have sparked your creativity and provided you with a starting point in your quest for the perfect rifle name. Remember, the name you choose should make you feel a sense of pride and connection to your firearm. So go ahead, select a name that resonates with you, and let it become an integral part of your rifle’s story.

Related:

Army Names

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The Hatsan 95 air rifle has been at the top of my review list for quite some time now. I’ve heard great things about it, and until I tried it for myself, I assumed that most people were exaggerating. To say I was blown away, is an understatement.

Technical Specs

Let’s start by talking about the technical stuff first. This gun comes in three calibers: .177, .22 and .25. It’s a spring-piston break barrel single-shot air rifle with adjustable rear sight and a 3-9×32 scope. With a Turkish walnut stock and gold plated trigger, this is a beautiful air rifle.

Click here to buy now and get discounted price on the Hatsan 95 .177, .22 and .25 Caliber Air Rifle. Plus, get FREE shipping too!

Powerful Shot

Because we have three calibers with the Hatsan 95, power will depend on which rifle you choose.

• The .177 has a velocity of 1,000fps
• The .22 has a velocity of 800fps
• The .25 has a velocity of 650fps

The .177 shoots faster than the other two calibers, but the .22 and the .25 will have a greater impact.

With that much power, this is a rifle that can easily be used for hunting or just plain fun plinking. At 50 yards, I had no problem taking out a squirrel with the .22. I’m still amazed by how powerful and accurate this rifle is.

Accurate and Durable

Even without the scope, this rifle is consistently accurate. At 40 yards, I was shooting with dime size accuracy.

Once the scope is sighted in, the accuracy gets even better. Fixed TruGlo fiber optics in the front and adjustable TruGlo rear sight help to further improve your accuracy.

I like the two-stage trigger on this rifle. It allows for pull weight, length of travel, first stage and second stage adjustments. The stock is ambidextrous, so any shooter can use this gun comfortably. The grip is checkered, so it won’t slip. The rubber pad on the forearm absorbs shock and reduces recoil. Just about every aspect of this gun is designed to improve accuracy.

But what about the quality of the build? A rifle can be deadly accurate, but it’s not worth buying if it only lasts a few months. The Hatsan 95 is a rifle you’ll have around for quite some time. The stock is made of Turkish walnut, the trigger is gold plated, and the barrel is made from German steel. It’s a bit on the heavy side at 7.8lbs (without the scope), but I’ve shot heavier air rifles.

Check out the beautiful detail in the walnut stock and also the trigger! (Click to enlarge pictures below)

Pros

The Hatsan 95 really surprised me. It’s an underrated gun that’s powerful, accurate and well-made. You have three calibers to choose from and it comes with a decent 3-9×32 scope and mount. It’s hard to find an air rifle that’s as well built and powerful as the 95 in the under $200 price range.

Cons

Like other air rifles, this one is loud. It’s a little heavy even without the scope at 7.8lbs. And it also takes quite a bit of force to cock it. Hatsan puts the cocking force at 35-40lbs.

I’m not really sure I would consider these cons, but they’re things you should be aware of. Most air rifles are about the same weight (or heavier even) and just as loud. Sure, it takes some force to cock this rifle, but it’s not something a typical adult couldn’t handle. And you probably don’t want kids shooting this gun anyway.

The Final Verdict

The Hatsan 95 is an accurate, powerful and well-built air rifle that looks just as good as it shoots. For under $200, this is one of my best air rifle and is easily worth double its price and is right on par with the big name rifles on the market today. I’ve had people unfamiliar with the brand think the rifle was worth well north of $400!

Click here to buy now and get discounted price on the Hatsan 95 .177, .22 and .25 Caliber Air Rifle. Plus, get FREE shipping too!

A few weeks ago, my landlord came knocking at my door on a Tuesday morning. When I answered, he said, “I’ve got a dead beaver out here. You want it?”

What are you supposed to say to that?

“Sure, I’ll take it!”

The words fell out of my mouth well before I realized I didn’t have any idea what the hell to do with a dead 37-pound beaver or how to process it even if I did. But I knew I wanted to make like a guy from the 18th century and take a shot at tanning the animal’s tail with nothing but a throwback attitude and the breadth of collective internet knowledge.

It soon became apparent that I did not have the skills to tan an entire beaver pelt, but the tail — I thought I could manage to tan the tail. Maybe. Sort of. And while figuring it out, I would get a glimpse into the rich history of trapping and part of how they processed the beavers they took, first hand.

Smell the Butt, Eat the Beaver Tails

The beaver-trapping business is an old one; its zenith came in the 18th and 19th centuries, mainly due to the fashion industry in the US and especially overseas. Beaver fur was all the rage, and the fur’s excellent ability to repel water made it an especially sought-after material for hats and other garments.

But what about the tail? After processing, beaver tails were extremely useful for making a number of high-quality leather goods. Plenty of folks have also been known to eat beaver tail — no not the Canadian treat made of deep-fried dough topped with cinnamon sugar and whipped cream with the same name — folks do eat actual beaver tails, especially trappers.

There are a number of ways to prepare what was once thought of as a mountain man’s delicacy. There’s no real amount of meat to be had from the tail, but it’s where a beaver stores most of its body fat.

When you skin a beaver, you’re not going to find a lot of subcutaneous fat like you would on a raccoon, because it’s all in the tail. If you were living in the backcountry for months on end, trapping and purely living off the land, that readily available source of good, pure fat would have been most welcome and perhaps necessary for survival and maintaining reasonable health. In a modern context, you can cook the tail, remove the fat, render it, and have a supply of high-quality cooking fat that can be used for all sorts of things.

In the old days, you’d encase the tail in clay and cook it on some hot coals, and then cut through the charred leather and the inner membrane to get to that pure fat. If your landlord ever drops a fresh beaver on your stoop and you’re brave enough, you can do the same by wrapping it in tin foil and throwing it on the grill.

Surprisingly, folks who have eaten that fat report that it’s basically tasteless. It can also be rendered and used like lard to cook other things.

The tails are pretty damn useful when still attached to the beaver, too. Beavers can slap that large, flat tail on the water surface to issue a danger warning, and it works extremely well as a rudder when they swim. On land, the sturdy tail, which is typically a foot long and 2 inches wide, is useful as another leg to help beavers reach branches and to stabilize their bodies when going to work on a tree trunk.

The animals also use their tail as a lever when dragging bulky and heavy branches into position for dam building. Some people think beavers also use their tails to pack mud into their dams, but they actually use their front feet.

Now, about the smell. You may have heard somewhere that beaver tails smell like vanilla. That’s sort of true. Beavers have castor sacs, a scent gland that creates a chemical compound in the form of a thick yellowish goop, called castoreum, which they use to mark their territory. The glands are actually located under the tail, so it’s the beaver’s ass that smells like vanilla, not the tail itself.

Castoreum smells and tastes so much like vanilla that it’s been used as a food flavoring and in perfumes — but these days, most vanilla scents are synthetic and castoreum is rarely used in vanilla extract (but it’s still on the FDA’s list of approved food ingredients, so you never know).

Because of their fur, skin, tails, and sweet, sweet ass-stink sacs, beavers were hunted and trapped nearly to extinction on two continents. There were only 1,300 Eurasian beavers in the wild at the beginning of the 1900s.

The North American beaver was also nearly hunted out of existence for their pelts and vanilla ass juice. There were an estimated 100 to 200 million beavers on the continent. By the early 1800s, there were hardly any.

But time marched on, and so did the fashions that required an abundance of beaver pelts. Demand declined and trappers moved on to other quarries and professions as the American Frontier dwindled.

Since then, reintroduction efforts in the US, Mexico, and Canada have been successful and their populations are once again abundant.

The Eurasian beaver population has also made a comeback, though not as dramatic, thanks to reintroduction efforts in France, Germany, Poland, and in parts of Scandinavia and Russia.

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Beaver Trapping in the 21st Century

Today, very few people make a living by trapping beavers. Instead, most are hobbyists and amateurs.

Beavers are amazing creatures, but they can wreak havoc on the local landscape, which is exactly what was happening on my landlord’s property. They were felling trees with tremendous speed and building dams that were causing flooding and cutting off the water supply to a large pond in a state-managed wildlife refuge that butts up against the property. That pond eventually empties into a nearly 700-mile-long river. So, with the blessing of the government officials in charge of the refuge, my landlord began setting traps and dispatching beavers. And that’s how I wound up playing 21st-century mountain man.

Tanning Beaver Tails

Before I got to tanning, I hit GoWild, a social media community geared toward the outdoors, and a bunch of users chimed in with their own experiences, best practices, and words of encouragement. I used what seemed like a couple of solid YouTube tutorials as guides, a few meager cutting implements, and just jumped into it. Fair warning: If you aren’t a patient person, you might want to tap out about now.

Lesson 1: Don’t Cut to the Tip on Beaver Tails

The first task, obviously, was to remove the tail, which was accomplished with a pocket knife and little difficulty.

Then, I cut the tail in half along the edges and began removing the outer skin. Most of this process was really easy, but as you get closer to the tip, the tail gets really thin. I made a couple of wrong moves that an experienced hand would not have made, and put some small holes in the tail leather.

I also discovered that any injury the beaver sustained to its tail that had healed over created really tough scar tissue was all but impossible to separate from the thin outer layer of the tail, resulting in a few more small tears.

Actually pulling the tail apart was more difficult. The interior fat is incredibly slimy and slippery, so I clamped the tailbone in a small bench vise and then got a good solid grip and started pulling the two halves away from the bone. The tactic worked, and they came apart relatively easily.

Later on, I learned that you don’t have to try to split the tail all the way to the tip. Just get as close as you can without feeling like you’re going to risk poking through. If you get to this point, then the tail is usually thin enough to separate itself cleanly into two pieces just by pulling it apart.

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Lesson 2: Use the Right Knife

Next, all the fat and other tissue must be removed from the soon-to-be leather. I learned quickly that having a proper fleshing knife for the task, which I did not, would have made this step a lot easier. I made due with my sharp skinning knife, but the blade’s contours weren’t right for the task and it took a lot longer than it should have, and the results weren’t as clean or thorough as they should have been.

Lesson 3: Tendons Are Tough

I also learned that all of the tendons in the tail closest to the spine are incredibly tough. Given the power that a beaver’s tail has, this makes complete sense, but those sinewy little fibers were abnormally strong and definitely gave even my sharpest knife a run for its money.

With as much of the flesh removed as possible, I was set to start the actual tanning process. It wasn’t difficult, but it was time-consuming.

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Salt and Wait, Acid and Wait, Base and Wait, Wash

First, I thoroughly salted the flesh side of the tail halves with regular table salt and let them sit for 24 hours to dry out. After that, the tail was pretty dry and stiff.

Then, the halves went into a bucket of warm water for another 24 hours to rehydrate.

With the tail thoroughly salted and rehydrated, it then needs to be washed with dish soap to remove any remaining salt and beaver grease.

With the prep work finally done, I decided to go with the alum tanning process (aluminum sulfate and salt) because it seemed easiest and I could get the granulated alum at the grocery store.

I added the tails, granulated alum, and salt into a bucket of clean water with a 1-to-2 ratio of alum to salt. Then it soaked for 72 hours. Told you — lots of waiting.

At this point, I was three days in and the tail pieces were beginning to firm up and feel like leather, but I noticed the edges were starting to develop a slight curl.

Next, the acidic alum has to be neutralized with a base. Borax works well. I dumped the bucket, filled it with some more water, added the tail and the Borax, and stepped away to wait for another 24 hours.

That was it for the tanning process and the pieces were ready for their final drying stage.

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The Final Results

I set them on some paper towels and then left for a week to visit family out of state, which wasn’t the best idea. When I got back, the pieces were definitely dry, but the result wasn’t what I was expecting — they were rock hard and severely curled at the edges. Plus, little puddles of beaver grease had accumulated in places.

I wiped up the grease and worked the pieces back and forth in my hands and over the edge of a counter to try and loosen them up into something close to pliable. The edges were rock hard and there was no way to remove the curl they’d acquired. I tried some leather conditioner to add some moisture back in.

The endeavor, I’d say, was a partial success — but I learned a hell of a lot going through the process.

Next time, I will certainly do a few things differently. I’ll be sure to use more appropriate knives and clean the inside of the tail more evenly. Leaving it to dry unattended for a week was also a bad idea. I also want to consider taking this guy’s advice, do some better knife work, and leave the skin as one piece when filleting the tail, so it can lay flat. His method for removing the tail bone by cutting it out looks easier than the vise method, so I’ll try that, too.

I might also sandwich the leather between some iron mesh during the last step and see if that can prevent any curling that might occur.

For now, the pieces of beaver leather are sitting on top of my gun safe, occasionally driving one of my dogs crazy when she catches the scent. Hopefully, the results of my next attempt will be more than just a learning experience and can be made into something useful.

If you come into the possession of a few beaver tails and, like me, have no tanning knowledge and don’t want to risk ruining the leather, you can trim it up according to the directions on the Specialty Leather Productions site, freeze it, and mail it to them. They’ll tan it and send you back perfect beaver leather for $6.50 per half.

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Trotlining is one of the oldest fishing methods and still one of the most fun and reliable ways to ensure a good catch. There is no faster way to fill the freezer than learning to master the trotline. Even as a 10-year-old, I found that setting one up was a fairly easy lift. However, picking the best location takes some skill.

Trotlines should be set where there is some kind of current. A gentle lake current, such as an inlet stream, the fork where two streams or rivers come together, and gentle river eddies are all perfect trotline areas. Trotlines should never be set where state regulations make them illegal.

When it comes to setting trotlines, the general idea is easy. Stretch a line with a number of baited hooks hanging from it across a promising bit of stream, anchoring it on both ends. How complicated it gets from there depends on the style of the angler and the savvy of the fish. This article covers the basics of placing trotlines plus a few good ideas to try.

1. Locate the Current to Set Your Trotline

When it comes to setting trotlines for catfish, one of the most important things is to set the line where “catfish will come to feed.” Many fish love moving water and will usually travel upstream to find food that they smell in the water while they are downstream.

While several species are notorious for hiding out in holes and undercuts when they come to feed, they tend to hunt where the water is a little shallower, and it’s moving. When pole fishing, anglers try to lure a bite while they are in their hiding place. However, trotline fishing depends on the fish coming out to find food, so natural feeding places must be identified.

• Look in river bends where the current swirls sideways a little, bringing food into the current.
• Stream junctions where two or more streams flow together, causing a swirling smorgasbord of snacks brought downstream.
• Other places where the current will bring tasty morsels downstream. This does not mean fast-moving water, necessarily, but areas where the stream should bring fresh bites that a fish will come looking for.
• Lakes can be hard to trotline, especially when regulations allow only one trotline per angler. It is hard to decide where to place it until a honey hole is discovered. Walk or cruise the lake to discover areas where the water has some kind of current. Inlet areas are perfect. Start by trotline fishing those areas with anchors.

Once a promising area is identified, the trotline can be set with bait so that the fish is not disappointed.

This video gives some additional great tips for both finding a good location and what times of year to set a line:

Related The 4 Best Tasting Types of Panfish.

2. Run the Trotline From Tree to Tree

The easiest way to set a catfish trotline is to anchor between two trees, sturdy tree roots, or two stumps.

• Anchor one end to a tree on one side of the stream or river.
• Boat or swim across to the other side and anchor the opposite end to a tree on the other bank.
• Small weights should be placed at intervals along the line to keep it from floating up.

Catfish feed on and near the bottom, so a bunch of bait floating high up in the current will not be very effective. Weights placed at intervals should keep the line evenly submerged. The height can be adjusted by adding or taking away slack on the lines fixed to the trees on either side.

3. Run the Trotline at an Angle and Vary the Depth

Experienced anglers have figured out a few ways to maximize the catch on trotlines. The key is envisioning how the fish are going to enter the fishing area and what they will be looking for. As they swim up toward a gentle current such as a stream inlet to a lake, they will also vary their depth as the bottom ascends to join the stream.

• Set trotlines at a 45-degree angle to the current, or as close as possible. A fish who is swimming upstream in search of food will have a single chance to spot and bite at bait set in a straight line. Put a nice slant on the trotline and increase the chances of a bite with every swish of the fish’s tail as it cruises up the line.
• Set trotlines at an uneven depth. The river bottom or lake bottom is not an even depth. Lines set in a straight line and all at the same depth will likely set some baits in the mud, while some are hanging too high in the current. Know the bottom. Set the line high toward the bank and low in the middle to follow the streambed.
• Sometimes the best setup is to have one end anchored to the bank and the other end anchored in the middle of the stream to place the trotline across a little current swirl that will be irresistible to catfish.

Be willing to think outside the box but within state regulations when it comes to setting trotlines.

4. The Floating Trotline

A different way to set trotlines is to create a floating trotline with longer lines. This method uses the current to help bob the baited hooks, increasing the temptation on the end of each snood.

• Make a regular trotline setup, but do not anchor the ends to trees or stumps.
• Each end of the trotline has a separate nylon anchor line that attaches to anchors a few feet below the trotline on the bottom. Think of the setup as a capital H, with the middle bar being the length of the trotline. There is an anchor on the base of each upright of the H.
• Each anchor line also has a floating buoy on the top to keep the anchor line tight between the anchor and the buoy. Imagine the buoys being placed on the top of each upright on the H.
• Floats are attached with line leads at intervals along the trotline to keep it bobbing up in the water rather than sagging onto the bottom. These floats will be visible on the top of the water, but the trotline will be a few feet under the water, suspended by the float lines.

This is a great way to trotline, especially in lakes where there are not good shoreline anchor points anyway. Plus, the depth of the trotline can be adjusted by attaching longer leads between the trotline and the floats.

Having trouble spotting your trotlines? Check out this video which has a really good idea:

Make Sure the Trotline is Legal

Some states have banned trotlines altogether, while other states have regulations regarding the type, makeup, and placement of trotlines. There are a lot of different reasons for this.

• Trotlines stretched across navigable waterways are hazardous, and in nearly all states, this is illegal.
• Some states require that trotlines have identification on them and that they be removed within a certain timeframe. Those left past the allotted time are considered forfeit.
• Other states ban live bait or have regulations on the type of bait that can be used on trotlines.
• Some states disallow certain kinds of lines, hooks, weights, and floats.
• Some states allow trot lining during the day but not overnight.

Whether the trotline is built or purchased, it is important to make sure that the line falls within the state and county Fish and Game regulations. Illegal trotlines will be confiscated, and the anglers can face heavy fines for poaching.

Final Thoughts

Trotlines are a fun, efficient, and traditional way to catch a mess of catfish and other bottom-feeders like crabs. The key is to be willing to think like a fish and try different ways of trotline fishing until the perfect setup is discovered.

As with anything, persistence is key. You have to learn what works best in your location and what setup brings in the most fish. Of course, as you know, that challenge is the fun part and why we are doing this in the first place.

Thanks for reading!

For more, check out 4 Best Tasting Freshwater Fish (And How To Prepare Them).

Image courtesy of K.C. District U.S. Army Corps of Engineers

As a kid, I often wore two or three pairs of cotton socks topped with a super thick wool sock. It was a very inefficient system and did more harm than good. After many years, miles, and cold sits, I learned just how important good hunting socks are.

Hunting socks may not be a glamorous gear item, but they sure as heck deserve your attention. Between comfort, moisture mitigation, and keeping you warm/cool, socks are key ingredients to happy feet in the woods.

A flimsy and oft-neglected piece of fabric, good socks go unnoticed and are sometimes taken for granted. Bad socks, however, can ruin an outing with bunching, constant slipping, or — worse yet — hunt-ending blisters.

With all of that said, there are a ton of hunting sock options floating around out there. To help sort them all out we at GearJunkie decided to pull our top picks for 2024 together. With any luck, this list will help ease your search and put smiles on your feet come hunting season. Swing down to our Comparison Chart to learn more about picking the right hunting sock, and be sure to check out ourBuyer’s Guide.

The Best Hunting Socks of 2024

• Best Overall Hunting Sock: The Darn Tough Midweight Hunting Sock
• Best Budget Hunting Sock: Cabela’s Instinct 2.0 Wool Crew
• Best Hunting Sock for Women: The Darn Tough Boot Midweight Hunting Sock
• Best Late-Season Hunting Sock: First Lite Zero Cold Weather OTC
• Beast Early-Season Hunting Sock: Farm to Feet Ely
• Most Versatile Hunting Sock: Vortex Game Trail Tick Repellent Hunt Sock
• Most Technical Hunting Sock: KUIU Ultra Merino Over the Calf Sock

Best of the Rest

Hunting Socks Comparison Chart

Why You Should Trust Us

Hunting is one of my ultimate passions and I’ve been backpack hunting with a smile on my face for the past 10 years. And the health of my feet is a massive part of that. Trust is a must with socks for me.

Whether I’m making a long double-digit hike into a backcountry camp, or I’m hauling out a mind-bendingly heavy load, my feet are the gateway to the finish line. In other words, I have absolutely zero tolerance for incapable socks.

When testing out a pair of hunting socks, there are a few things on my radar. Fit, comfort, insulation, and breathability. I’m also just paying attention to how my feet feel overall while hiking, whether hot spots are present or if my feet sweating. Success in these areas is critical for pursuing my passions, as a bad pair of socks can cause a bad day in the field.

Of course, with my own experiences, I also took into account the experiences of trusted hunters around me. It provides a different perspective and gets me out of my own head for a bit. And the top-selling hunting socks on the market were also noted at a variety of price points.

All of our feet may be a little bit different, but the hunting socks listed above will cater to a wide range of hunters — whether they’re sitting in a treestand, or packing miles into the backcountry.

How to Choose a Hunting Sock

Up above we’ve laid out quite a few options for hunting socks. And aside from our top picks, there are a ton of options out there for you to choose from. So, how do you go about choosing the right hunting sock for you? We’ve got you covered. Once you’ve dialed in your sock game, consider taking a look at our guide to the top hunting boots.

Time of Year

The first thing that needs to be established is what time of year you’re planning on hunting the most. Choose a sock that fits the demands of most of your hunts. Obviously, the early season is going to be warmer than the late season. Don’t be the guy hunting with a late-season sock when it’s 80 degrees out. That’s a recipe for a bad time.

So, why not just use a midweight sock for everything to hit all of the marks? You can absolutely do that, just know that it’s a give and take. You’ll give up warmth in the late season or you’ll give up breathability in the early season. Of course, there are tricks to get by like airing your feet out often when it’s hot or starting a fire to warm the toes when it’s cold.

Style of Hunting

Another factor in choosing the right hunting sock for you is your style of hunting. Some hunters are more active and they prefer to stay mobile. And when you’re more mobile, you’re naturally going to sweat more. At the same time, the more methodical hunter that plays the waiting game more often than not has different needs. They aren’t going to sweat as much and will require more insulation depending on the time of year.

For the active hunter a lightweight hunting sock is going to be best. This is going to not only wick moisture away, but because it’s thinner it will be more breathable and dry faster. Even when it’s cold out, if I’m moving on a regular basis, I don’t need a super thick sock to stay warm. In fact, having too thick of a sock could cause more harm than good because you’ll sweat more. Wet equals cold. You want to keep your feet dry and warm.

For more stationary hunters, sock choice is going to be temperature dependant. In the early season, a lightweight sock will be just fine. However, when it gets cold, this is where the gap increases between the active and stationary hunters. In these cases, lean on the mid-heavyweight side. When you’re not moving as much, you’ll require more insulation simply due to the fact that you’re radiating less heat.

Test Before Your Hunt

This is not a cookie-cutter process. The hunting sock that your buddy loves might not do right by you. I’ve had that happen in the past. Maybe you just don’t like where a certain seam or reinforcement zone is on a sock, thus decreasing the comfort level.

With that said, test your socks before heading out on a hunting trip — even if that’s just wearing them around the house for a day. You won’t know if they’re going to work unless you try. And you don’t want to find out they don’t while out on a hunt.

Over the last few years, prices on just about everything in the hunting industry have been gradually increasing, with muzzleloaders being no exception to this trend. With those price increases, we have seen many new and exciting products introduced, such as the Traditions NitroFire™ and the CVA™ Paramount.

However, the majority of hunters have a hard time justifying the purchase of a muzzleloader that is in the $600 to $2000 range, especially the hunters that live in regions with limited muzzleloading opportunities. Knowing this, we want to ensure that we offer highly effective muzzleloaders for a price that can be easily afforded by anyone who would like to give muzzleloader hunting a shot.

Our team set out to determine which muzzleloader is the best for hunters on a budget. Both of the muzzleloaders that were considered by our team are available with a scope for under $400. Below are our top two picks for the best budget muzzleloaders, with the winner listed at the end of this article.

CVA™ Wolf V2

The CVA Wolf™ V2 has been one of the most popular muzzleloaders in the US for almost a decade. With the compact design and affordable price point, the Wolf V2 is an excellent choice for someone looking to get into muzzleloading at an affordable level. The ability to get this muzzleloader with open sights for around $300 and with a scope and case for under $400 makes the CVA Wolf V2 an extremely attractive gun for many hunters. With a weight of only 6.25 pounds, its compact and lightweight design makes it perfect for all hunting applications. It also features the CVA Quick Release Breech Plug, which allows for tool-free removal of the breech plug and a hassle-free cleaning process. When it comes to budget muzzleloaders, the CVA Wolf V2 is leading the pack as one of the best.

Traditions™ Buckstalker XT

The Traditions™ Buckstalker XT™ offers all of the same great features of the original Buckstalker design, yet for 2024, Traditions has added the Elite XT™ trigger. This is the same premium trigger that is offered in the Traditions Pursuit VAPR™ XT and it provides a crisp and clean trigger pull.

Traditions prides themselves on producing some of the safest muzzleloaders on the market and with its trigger safety and internal block safety, the Buckstalker XT is no exception. This rifle also features the Traditions Accelerator Breech Plug, which is removed in only three turns, making the cleaning and unloading process incredibly quick and easy.

The Buckstalker XT is available with a scope for under $400 and can be purchased with a CeraKote™ finish for a small increase in price. The Traditions Buckstalker XT is a feature-rich muzzleloader that is sure to be effective in the woods and on the range.

Conclusion

Both CVA™ Wolf and Traditions™ Buckstalker XT muzzleloaders are excellent choices for anyone on a budget and wanting to experience muzzleloading, however, our choice for the best budget muzzleloader goes to the Traditions Buckstalker XT.

Though it is not quite as affordable as the CVA Wolf, we believe that the additional safety features, the Elite XT trigger, and the ability to upgrade to a CeraKote finish, give this muzzleloader an edge over the CVA Wolf.

We hope that this makes your decision a little bit easier and if you have any questions then feel free to contact our knowledgeable customer service at sales@muzzle-loaders.com or 1-855-236-5000.

The animal world can seem a little cruel and difficult to understand at times, particularly when it comes to how different species will treat their young. You might have wondered, do birds kill their own babies?

Some birds will kill off their offspring if there are not enough food resources to go around, or if they are likely to cause harm to the rest of the brood. Baby birds can also die from neglect or abandonment, though this is rarely just because they have been touched by a human.

Read ahead in this article to find out why some birds might kill their babies, and whether humans might inadvertently make this happen by interfering with a nest.

Why Would a Mother Bird Kill Her Babies?

It is not a myth that some mother birds will kill their babies, but it is not a very common phenomenon. Birds spend a lot of time and energy caring for their young and are often among the most devoted mothers in the animal kingdom.

Almost all species are instinctively driven to survive and reproduce, so why might a mother bird choose to cause the death of her offspring? There are three main reasons why birds have been recorded as actively killing their babies.

• Brood reduction: Mother birds will sometimes kill their babies because they do not have the food resources or nest conditions needed to keep their entire brood alive. Some birds may reduce their brood size so that the limited food or space they have can be given to the healthiest of their offspring, or even be kept for themselves!
• Preventing the spread of infection: If a baby bird is sick with an infection that may spread to the other nestlings or the adult birds, a mother may kill the infected baby or discard them.
• Reducing the breeding success of competing birds: As with many other species, birds have been known to kill the offspring of other parents that they are competing with so that their own babies are more likely to survive.
• To gain attention from dominant males: A rare phenomenon in birds, but the house sparrow females are notorious for killing off other females’ offspring – partly to establish dominance!They do this especially when they replace previous mates of attractive male sparrows with large territories. Partly because they do not want to spend the energy raising other females’ nestlings, but also to demonstrate some kind of dominance over other female competitors!

It is actually more common for baby birds to die from neglect or abandonment than it is for them to be killed directly by their mother. These are often accidental deaths, though, as most bird species are very caring and attentive parents.

Which Bird Species Are Known to Kill Their Babies?

Infanticide is a rare occurrence in birds, but some bird species do seem to be a little less caring than others. So, who are some of the main culprits?

Eclectus Parrots

These parrots are known to kill their young if their nests are not able to support the entire brood.

They usually choose to kill the youngest male sibling first so that older female nestlings will develop more quickly. They do this as they know (by instinct!) that females take less work and food to raise!

Black Eagles

Although black eagle mothers are not necessarily killers themselves, they often let their offspring kill each other without interfering.

When baby black eagles fight, they can sometimes fight to the death, and the mothers will rarely intervene. This allows the strongest of their young to survive.

Cuckoos

You’ve probably heard of the strange way that some cuckoos “care” for their young. They can lay their eggs in the nests of other birds, turning their own babies into “brood parasites”.

Baby cuckoos will often kill off the offspring of the host bird so that they can be raised without competition.

House Sparrows

The males of this widespread bird species are actually known to go out of their way to hunt down and kill the babies of competing males so that their young are more likely to survive. But females will actually do the same, which is unusual for birds!

In fact, more than 10% of new house sparrow nestlings are brought up in a nest where the male (or much rarer, the female) has first killed off the offspring of the previous partner to one of the parents!

Although this behavior is almost always carried out by males in other bird species, house sparrow females are notorious for killing the nestlings of competing females!

They seemingly do this to get more attention from polygamous males and to advance in the social hierarchy.

Do storks kill their babies?

Yes! White Storks have been known to kill their babies and a 3-year-long study found that 9 out of 63 nests experienced infanticide. This means that it only happens in 14% of the nesting couples, but less often if conditions are optimal and perhaps more often if food is scarce.

Why do storks kill their babies?

Storks will kill their babies if they lay too many eggs and therefore have to care for more than they can carry. In other bird species, the nestlings would outcompete each other “naturally” and the parents would not need to intervene, but not in storks.

Therefore, the stork parents will often intervene themselves to put an end to the smallest chick’s misery before it starves to death.

Will Birds Also Eat Their Own Babies?

As a biologist with a keen interest in avian behavior, I can provide insight into the intriguing topic of cannibalism in birds. While it may be unsettling to imagine, yes, there are instances where certain bird species engage in cannibalistic behaviors, including consuming their own offspring.

Although this behavior is relatively rare among birds, it has been observed in various contexts and can serve different purposes depending on the species and circumstances involved.

One important point to emphasize is that the vast majority of bird species do not exhibit cannibalistic tendencies towards their young. Parental care and nurturing instincts are deeply ingrained in most avian species, as they invest significant time and energy in rearing their offspring.

The act of killing and consuming their own young goes against the typical parental behavior observed in birds, which is geared towards ensuring the survival and well-being of their progeny.

Nevertheless, there are several factors that can contribute to instances of cannibalism in birds. These factors include food scarcity, competition for resources, stress, environmental conditions, and even genetic predispositions.

In certain cases, a parent bird may perceive their own offspring as a potential source of nutrition, especially when food availability is limited or unpredictable. By consuming their young, the parent bird gains sustenance to survive during challenging times.

In addition to nutritional benefits, cannibalism in birds can also serve other purposes. One such purpose is related to maintaining the overall fitness of the parent bird. By eliminating weaker or sickly offspring through cannibalism, the parent bird can allocate its limited resources towards raising the healthier offspring, thus increasing the chances of their survival and overall reproductive success.

This behavior, known as “culling,” ensures that the limited resources are allocated to the strongest individuals who have a higher likelihood of passing on their genes to the next generation.

It is important to note that cannibalism in birds is not limited to parents consuming their own young. In some cases, unrelated adult birds may prey upon the young of other individuals within their own species.

This type of cannibalism can occur as a result of territorial disputes, dominance hierarchies, or simply as a opportunistic feeding behavior.

Certain species of birds, such as gulls and raptors, have been observed engaging in this behavior, particularly when food resources are scarce or when defending their nesting territories.

It is crucial to understand that cannibalism in birds is not the norm, but rather an exception to the typical parental care exhibited by avian species. The majority of bird parents invest significant effort in protecting, feeding, and nurturing their young, ensuring their survival and eventual independence. Cannibalism, when it does occur, is generally a result of exceptional circumstances and environmental pressures.

In conclusion, while it may be unsettling to contemplate, cannibalism in birds, including the act of consuming their own offspring, has been observed in certain species. This behavior can be driven by factors such as food scarcity and the need to prioritize the survival of the fittest offspring.

However, it is important to remember that such behaviors are not representative of the broader avian population. Most birds exhibit remarkable parental care and strive to ensure the well-being and success of their young.

Do Birds Kill Their Babies If You Touch Them?

You’ve probably been told to leave a baby bird alone if you spot one out in the wild because its mother will kill it if it has a human smell, but is this true?

Actually, this idea is a myth, although the advice that it has produced is actually pretty sensible.

Birds will not kill their babies just because they have been touched by humans, and a human smell is not going to cause a baby to be abandoned.

The problem with touching a baby bird is that your presence is likely to scare off the parents, and the adult birds may find it difficult to locate them again.

It’s best to leave a baby bird where you find it because you want its parents to come back, and they are more likely to do so if you’re not around.

If the birds are older at the fledgling state, the bird might not belong in the nest anymore and will take care of by the parents. In if that is the case, you should not move it or try to rescue it!

What Do Birds Do When Their Babies Die?

When baby birds do die, it can seem very sad to us, but do the adult birds become upset? What do they do when this happens? Well, it’s hard to determine exactly how much emotion birds have.

There is no scientific proof that birds will mourn or grieve, but some of their behavior does suggest a level of sadness.

For example, penguins are known to hold onto their young for a long time even after they have died, crows have been observed gathering around their dead, and magpies will sometimes place objects over the bodies of deceased birds.

As for what actually happens when a baby bird dies, things are a little more practical. Dead bodies breed bacteria and attract predators, so they need to be removed from the nest.

The larger the baby is, the further they will be taken away. Many predatory and scavenger birds, like vultures and hawks, will even eat their young, though this does not seem to be done out of maliciousness, but simply because it is expedient.

In the end, though we may never know for sure what goes on in a bird’s mind when its young die, we can see that they do take some actions that could be interpreted as signs of sadness.

What can you do to prevent birds from killing their own babies?

You always have to be careful when trying to help birds as the reason for their behaviour can vary and you might make it worse!

Some possible reasons for bird infanticide include if the bird is sick, stressed or hungy, if the bird feels threatened, if the baby is not healthy, or if the mother bird is simply inexperienced.

If you are concerned about birds killing their own babies, you can try to provide nesting materials and a safe environment for them to nest in.

You can also try putting out extra food for them in your yard. I have already written extensively about how to feed backyard birds in each state of the US here on the site – so just go and find the bird in question and read all about what to feed it in my posts on backyards birds!

I will put some links at the end of this post as well!

Conclusion

As much as we might not understand it, killing babies is a natural occurrence in the animal world. For birds, it usually happens when the mother bird is trying to protect her (future) offspring or ensure their success.

While it’s a myth that human touch will cause a mother bird to kill her baby, it’s best to leave them alone so as not to scare off the parents. And if a baby bird does die, the adult birds usually handle it by removing the body from the nest without measurable remorse.

FAQs

Do blue jays kill their babies?

There are many factors that can affect the behavior of blue jays. Some reports suggest that blue jays may kill their babies if they perceive a threat to their safety, while other reports indicate that blue jays are generally gentle and nurturing parents. Ultimately, it is important to remember that every animal is unique and therefore reactions to different situations will vary.

Do mourning doves kill their babies?

No, mourning doves are not known to kill their babies.

Do quails kill their babies?

There is no definitive answer to this question as different quail species exhibit different behaviors. But some species might do so.

Why do quails kill their babies?

Some quail birds will kill their own babies if they perceive them to be a threat, while others will not. It is speculated that quails may kill their babies if they are sick or deformed in some way, in order to prevent the spread of disease.

Do budgies kill their babies?

Some budgies may kill their babies if they feel threatened or if they are not getting enough food, while others may not kill their babies under any circumstances.

Do geese kill their babies?

No, geese do not kill their babies. They are herbivores and would not normally be aggressive against their young.

Do crows kill their babies?

Crows will gladly eat other bird’s eggs and babies but do rarely eat their own offspring. Some crows may kill their babies if they perceive them to be a threat to their survival during food shortage.

Do Canadian geese kill their babies?

No, geese do not kill their babies. They are herbivores and would not normally be aggressive against their young.

Do swans kill their babies?

Swans, like geese, are herbivorous birds that do not normally have a taste for meat. They have very few babies so they will not let them go to waste. And whereas they will never kill their own babies, they will sometimes kill the nestlings of competing swan couples!

Do parakeets kill their babies?

No, parakeets do not kill their babies. Parakeets are small, gentle birds that typically make great parents.

Do finches kill their babies?

No, finches do not kill their babies. They are small, seed-eating birds that typically have large clutches of eggs (6-8). The female will incubate the eggs and both parents will feed the chicks once they hatch.

They may sometimes peck them by accident and kill them unintentionally. They will then throw them out of the nest where they will day from the fall if not completely dead already.

Do zebra finches kill their babies?

Zebra finches are very similar to regular finches and do not kill their babies on purpose.

Why would zebra finches kill their babies?

Zebra finches would only kill their babies by accident and never intend to do so on purpose. Especially when held in captivity where food is usually plentiful. They may sometimes peck them on accident as they are not the most intelligent birds around!

Do chickens kill their babies?

Chickens only kill their babies if they are hurt or injured. Sometimes they will eat their own eggs if they are free-range. However, they would only do this if they could not lay another egg that day and needed to conserve their energy.Chickens are omnivorous birds, but they mostly eat plants. They will only eat meat if it is available, but they do not hunt for it.

Do cardinals kill their babies?

As cardinals have very strong family bonds, it is unlikely they would kill their babies but it is possible. Cardinals will only kill their babies if they are severely disturbed or stressed.

Do robins kill their babies?

I have never heard any reports of robins killing their babies. So at least, they are not well known to do so.

Do hawks kill their babies?

Hawks are predators and will kill baby animals for food, including other birds, but they rarely kill their own babies as they do not have large broods.

Do sparrows kill their babies?

Yes! As mentioned earlier in this post, house sparrows kill almost ten percent of their total offspring if we count across and between couples!

Do mother ducks kill their babies?

No, ducks do not kill their babies.

And let’s end this post on a happy note: In fact, duck mothers are very nurturing and will often incubate other duck’s eggs and raise their chicks if given the chance!

More About Backyard birds in North America

Are you interested in how the backyard birds in your state compare to other states?

Then check out my other blog posts below:

• Backyard birds of Alabama
• Backyard birds of Colorado
• Backyard birds of Delaware
• Backyard birds of Georgia
• Backyard birds of Hawaii
• Backyard birds of Illinois
• Backyard birds of Iowa
• Backyard birds of Kentucky
• Backyard birds of Louisiana
• Backyard birds of Maryland
• Backyard birds of Massachusetts
• Backyard birds of Missouri
• Backyard birds of Nebraska
• Backyard birds of New York
• Backyard birds of North Carolina
• Backyard birds of Oklahoma
• Backyard birds of Rhode Island
• Backyard birds of South Carolina
• Backyard birds of Tennessee
• Backyard birds of Texas
• Backyard birds of Virginia
• Backyard birds of West Virginia
• Backyard birds of Wisconsin
• Backyard birds of Wyoming

And in Canada:

• Backyard birds of Ontario
• Backyard birds of Prince Edward Island
• Backyard birds of Saskatchewan
• Backyard birds of Quebec

Not on the list? Check out the rest of my posts on backyard birds here!

Maybe you would like to know if the Blue Jay or Cardinal dominates in the bird feeder hierarchy or how birds such as seagulls sleep at night? Or why mourning doves poop so much.

My Favorite Backyard Birding Gear:

If you are interested in posters and other wall arts etc. with drawings of all the backyard birds you have just read about, check out my portfolio over at Redbubble:

https://feederwatch.org/

American Museum of Natural History Birds of North America. DK; Revised edition (September 6, 2016). ISBN: 978-1465443991

National Geographic Backyard Guide to the Birds of North America, 2nd Edition. National Geographic; 2nd edition (October 15, 2019)

Birds of North America. National Audubon Society. (Knopf April 6, 2021). ISBN: 978-0525655671

https://celebrateurbanbirds.org/

https://www.birds.cornell.edu/

In the early 1950s, Robert Ruark set off for British East Africa having never killed an animal with a rifle before. His safari battery—a .220 Swift, .30-06 Springfield, .375 H&H and a .470 Nitro Express—was based on the recommendations of friends; he was well advised. While the latter three rifles make up a well-rounded safari battery, it was Bob’s professional hunter—Mr. Harry Selby—who had what would become the most famous rifle of the lot. It was made by Rigby of London on a Mauser 98 action, chambered for a proprietary cartridge: the .416 Rigby.

From its release in 1911 until the beginning of WWII, there were less than two hundred .416 Rigbys made, yet it had developed a great reputation among the serious hunters in East Africa. The design of the huge case, with the 45 degree shoulder and its immense girth, points directly at cordite—the common smokeless propellant at the time of the .416’s inception. Being highly temperature sensitive, cordite would generate dangerous pressures in the tropical heat, resulting in cases being stuck in their receivers. When pursuing dangerous game this is never a good thing. So Rigby designed a very large case in order to keep those pressures down. Driving a 410-grain bullet at 2370 fps, it quickly developed a reputation for being a big-game stopper; few hunters who ever used one for any length of time ever had a complaint. While relatively rare, hunters like John ‘Pondoro’ Taylor loved it, and even W.D.M. ‘Karamoja’ Bell ordered more than one. However, at the end of WWII, Kynoch—the major British ammunition manufacturer—was in financial ruin and ammunition became increasingly rare.

The bore diameter refused to fade, with several important developments that aided its relevance. Bob Chatfield-Taylor necked down the belted .458 Winchester case to hold .416″ bullets, resulting in the .416 Taylor, and American professional hunter George Hoffman necked up the .375 H&H case to give us the .416 Hoffman. Both are sound designs, with the Taylor being housed in a .30-06-length action, and the Hoffman requiring a magnum-length action.

Fast forward to the late 1980s, and we see Remington releasing a very Hoffman-like cartridge: the .416 Remington Magnum. Loosely based on the ailing 8mm Remington Magnum (the 8mm and .416 share the 25 degree shoulder), the .416 Remington adopted the ballistic formula of the later .416 Rigby loads: a 400-grain bullet, at a muzzle velocity of 2400 fps, for 5,000 ft.-lbs. of energy. This came at a price though, in the form of higher chamber pressures. If that didn’t make the shooting world cock an eyebrow, the Model 700 rifle it was chambered in featured a push-feed design (as they all have) and a relatively small extractor. Several instances in truly hot weather—like Zambezi Valley hot—saw some broken extractors and stuck cases, resulting in a hunter holding a club instead of a rifle. I firmly believe those situations arose more from a rifle design problem than from the cartridge. I’ve used the .416 Rem. Mag.—in a controlled round feed Winchester Model 70—in temperatures approaching and exceeding 100˚F and have never had an issue.

Undoubtedly, the Rigby and Remington variants on this bore diameter are the top dogs in this fight, with the .416 Weatherby and .416 Ruger becoming more obscure each year. The .416s fill a definite gap between the very flexible .375s and the heavyweight .458s, giving a best-of-both-worlds solution to the need for a cartridge that will shoot relatively flat, yet have the horsepower to tackle huge beasts at close ranges. So, which .416 do you choose and why?

Firstly, let’s agree that both cartridges—handloading aside—have identical ballistics, pushing a 400-grain bullet at 2400 fps, so velocity is off the menu. Secondly—without steering this into another campfire argument—I believe that a bolt-action rifle for dangerous game should be in the controlled round feed configuration, with a beefy extractor. Too many times I have been in a place where you absolutely depend on a rifle of this caliber, and a broken extractor would be a terrible thing. Both cartridges require positive extraction, each and every time, and I’ll reiterate: the .416 Remington has posed no issue, irrespective of temperature, in a CRF rifle.

So, with the ballistics being equal and the pressure differences posing no problem, who has the advantage? This is one of the rare instances where you’ll see me give the nod to a new design over the old, especially among the African cartridges; I do, in fact, prefer the .416 Rem. Mag. over the .416 Rigby, and I’ll cite the reasons why.

Magazine capacity is my first reason. The Rigby case measures 0.5949″ at its widest, while the Remington (and all the H&H family) measures .0.532″ at the belt; that difference allows for greater magazine capacity for the slimmer cartridge. When it comes to dangerous game, more is better.

Length is also an issue. The Rigby cartridge requires a longer (read heavier) action than the Remington does, which adds weight and expense. There are fewer of these actions made, and therefore they are less-readily available. The .416 Remington rifles can be made more affordably. Thirdly, there is the cost of ammunition. Rigby ammunition is expensive, roughly 30 percent more than .416 Remington ammo. When you take into consideration the cost of a dangerous game safari, it’s a minimal investment, but the Remington represents a better value for identical ballistics.

I’ve also found the recoil of the Rigby cartridge to exceed that of the Remington cartridge. I can and do handle both, but there is a noticeable difference, more than likely caused by the larger powder charge in the bigger Rigby case required to attain the velocity.

If you prefer the Rigby based on cool-factor alone, I totally get it. It deserves the respect it gets; it’s been with us for over a century, and it immediately conjures images of the classic safari era. But looking at it from a practical point of view, I give the edge to the .416 Remington; I’ve shot mine for years, and wouldn’t hesitate to take it anywhere in the world with me.

Looking for previous installments of our “Head to Head” series? Click here.

The Remington Model Seven Rifle makes a nifty, thrifty, and swift little hunting set-up.

I squeezed off shot #3, and it made a tight cloverleaf on my target. And then I got nervous, knowing what had happened too many times before: three rounds downrange, a half-inch group, and then I start pulling shots.

I was testing the new Remington Model Seven rifle in the Mossy Oak Bottomland finish, topped with Trijicon’s new Huron 2.5-10×40 rifle scope. My ammunition for this phase of my shooting was Federal Premium Vital Shok .308 Win., launching a 168-grain Trophy Copper bullet. I shot from a rest at my outdoor range, my target set up at 100 yards.

Remington Model Seven Review

Shooting the Remington Model Seven

I opened the bolt on the rifle to let in the 20-degree Fahrenheit Wisconsin air, and took a short walk to ease my nerves. From there, I got back behind the rifle, did some slow breathing exercises, and took my next shot. It touched the holes left by the previous three bullets!

And Shot #5? I pulled it. A little. But the whole group still came in at just .97-inches, with my first four shots an outstanding .44-inches.

One accurate little rifle, I decided, this Model Seven Bottomland, and a great option for the hunter. Yet, the Model Seven is also a rifle line that’s generally been ignored.

A Gun Long In Production

Remington launched the Model Seven line in 1983. It was made and marketed as a more compact option to Remington’s flagship Model 700 bolt. It is roughly 2.5-inches shorter than a standard 700, and Remington sells some of these smallish rifles every year, keeps coming out with different versions.

Yet, I rarely see the rifle reviewed in the shooting and outdoor media. And, while it’s admittedly a small empirical sample, I do travel around the country rather extensively on hunts and shooting events; and, I have never seen someone with a Model Seven.

Model 700’s? All over the country.

However, if you hunt from a tree stand or an enclosed blind, need a gun for close-in hunting in thick country and/or want a nimble truck gun? You should take a serious look at a Model Seven Bottomland with its 16.5-inch barrel.

My Set-Up

For my shooting with the Model Seven Bottomland model, I also used .308 Win hunting ammunition from Dynamic Research Technologies (DRT) , with their 175-grain frangible bullet, and Hornady’s Full Boar firing a 165-grain GMX projectile.

I had no problem getting MOA and SUB-MOA groups with all three brands of ammunition—if I let the rifle cool a bit after the third shot. The slim-profile barrel of the Model Seven Bottomland heats up quickly, and when I fired off five shots too quickly, either (or both) shot #4 or #5 would go .5- to 1.0-inch wide.

On average, the Hornady came in right at 1.00-inch groups for five shots, the DRT at 1.15-inches, and the Federal at .90-inches. Each ammunition brand also pegged .5-inch groups of three and four shots within those five-shot strings.

The Model Seven features Remington’s own X-Mark Pro Trigger. The trigger can be externally adjusted from 3 to 5 pounds of trigger pull with a 1/16” Allen wrench. However, my Lyman Electronic Digital Trigger Pull Gauge measured the pull on my rifle at a crisp 2 pounds, 7 ounces.

Magazine, Stock, & Recoil

The Model Seven’s internal magazine holds four rounds and features a hinged floor plate. The barrel is factory threaded at 5/8”-24 for a suppressor or muzzle break; a Picatinny rail section mounted atop the receiver makes for easy optics mounting.

As noted, the synthetic stock is finished in Mossy Oak’s popular Bottomland camouflage pattern. Which may strike some as a little dark. But you certainly won’t have to worry about the stock catching the attention of a sharp-eyed deer.

The recoil on the Model Seven was rather snappy. Not a surprise for a rifle that weighs just six pounds, with a short barrel and chambered in .308 Win. The recoil was not terrible; but if I was buying this rifle for a younger shooter or someone a little recoil shy? I’d opt for the 6.5 Creedmoor or 300 BLK chambering, the other two calibers available for the model Seven Bottomland.

All in all? A first-rate and nicely compact hunting rifle.

SPECS: Remington Model Seven Bottomland

• Caliber as tested: .308 Win
• Barrel Length: 16 1/2″
• Twist Rate: 1:10, Right
• Barrel Material: Carbon Steel
• Threaded: 5/8”-24
• Magazine Capacity: 4
• Total Length: 34 1/4″
• Avg. Wt. (Lbs.): 6
• Length of Pull: 13 3/8”
• Drop (Comb): 1 ¼”
• Drop (Heel): 1 ½”
• Barrel Finish: Matte Black
• Stock Material: Synthetic
• Stock Finish: Mossy Oak Bottomland
• Misc.: Rail on Receiver, Push Tang Safety, Super Cell recoil pad.
• MSRP Under $800

Montana is one of the most popular places for elk hunting. With elk populations that exceed 150,000 animals throughout the state, it is a prime place to consider an elk hunting vacation. However, there are certain things to consider before planning your elk hunting in Montana trip.

Each state that allows hunting of elk and other game animals has its own rules and regulations that are designed to protect animal populations and ensure that hunting activities are safe for both hunters and the ecosystem.

Like other states, elk hunting in Montana carries its own rules and regulations for hunting game animals, and understanding these rules will make it easier to plan a hunting trip.

If you are considering elk hunting in Montana, it is good to remember that just because you have a license and permit, and have all the plans in place, you may not actually take an animal.

So, it is a good idea to manage your expectations. In some more popular hunting spots, the rate of success is only about 2%, so be prepared to come home empty-handed.

However, if you are successful, Montana has the potential for taking some massive, trophy-worthy bull elk. If you’re patient and well prepared, your chance of success is good.

Elk Hunting in Montana – A Guide

Northwest Montana is where you will find the best Elk Hunting under Big Sky Country. Combine this with the high success rate for hunters, 17.4 success rate as reported by FWP, and it is easy to see why hunting in Montana is so desirable- there are over 132 outfitters in the state with many offering hunting trips.

When is the Montana Elk Hunting Season?

It is important to understand the hunting season for each game animal that you are interested in collecting, no matter which state you visit. Hunting game animals outside of their designated hunting seasons is considered poaching and can land you in hot water.

Hunting for elk in Montana is no different, and you should be well aware of their hunting seasons and limitations. Each year Montana puts out a complete booklet of rules and regulations for the antelope, deer, and elk seasons. You should read this before you plan your trip.

In Montana, deer and elk season run at the same time. This may not be the case in other states. In 2022 the elk hunting season is as follows:

Archery Season runs from September 3 – October 16, Youth Season (deer only) from October 20th to the 21st, General (rifle and archery) from October 22 until November 27, and Muzzleloader runs from December 10 – 18.

For Backcountry (Districts 150, 280, 316), Archery runs September 3 – 14 while General hunting runs September 15 – November 27.

What is the Best Time to go Elk Hunting in Montana?

Montana elk season is pretty robust, running longer than in neighboring states like Colorado and Wyoming. So, there really isn’t a bad time within Montana’s elk hunting season.

However, if you are looking for the best chance of taking an animal under your license, experienced hunters suggest that during the first few weeks of the general season. As such, the entirety of the archery season offers the first chance to hunt for elk in Montana.

There are also shoulder seasons for Montana elk hunting, and these may give you an even better opportunity to snag a great elk. Shoulder seasons and their regulations change each year, so make sure you know when and where you can hunt for elk during the shoulder seasons.

What is the Difference Between a License and Permit?

In order to hunt in Montana, you will need both a hunting license and a permit. They are two different things, and without one or the other, you cannot legally hunt for elk in Montana.

The first thing you need to get to elk hunting in Montana is a license. The license gives you the legal right to hunt and kill an elk in the state of Montana. There are different licenses for residents, non-residents, youth, disabled, and even former residents. Knowing what you need is the first step to hunting in Montana.

Once you have a hunting license in Montana, you will need to apply for an elk permit. The permit allows you to hunt in a particular area of the state. The state is divided into numerous hunting areas.

You’ll need to know which areas you want to hunt in and apply for those locations. Once you have your permit, remember, that hunting outside of the designated area of your permit is illegal and can result in serious consequences.

How do Non-Residents Get an Elk License?

If you are planning a hunting trip to Montana to hunt elk, it is important that you understand the process for acquiring a hunting license for non-residents of Montana. Montana residents can buy a license from a variety of locations throughout the state, so long as they are available.

However, that is not the case for non-residents. If you do not live in Montana and would like to hunt for elk, you will need to apply for a license.

Each year Montana issues a limited number of non-resident elk licenses through a lottery system. To have your name added to the lottery, you will need to submit an application to Montana Fish Wildlife and Parks, by March 1 of each year.

2022 Elk Hunting In Montana Rates for Non-Residents

Montana residents can buy their Elk licenses over the counter at a reduced fee of $10-$20. For non-residents, you can check the 2022 elk-hunting rates below.

Please note, that all combination license prices include the required Base Hunting License, Conservation License, Aquatic Invasive Species Prevention Pass, and Application Fees.

• Licenses & Permits Fee
  • Big Game Combination License (Elk & Deer) – $1,145.50
  • Elk Combination License – $971.50
  • Youth Big Game Combination License – $584
  • Youth Elk Combination License – $497
  • Special Elk Permit Application – $9
  • Bow and Arrow License – (mandatory for all archery hunts) $10
  • Preference Point Fee for Combination License (optional) – $100
  • Outfitter Preference Point Fee for Combination License (optional but must hunt with an outfitter) – $100
  • Bonus Point Fee per Species (optional) – $20

Explaining the Draw System for Elk Hunting in Montana

The draw system for elk hunting in Montana is considered to be one of the more complex across all the states, draw allocation, point system, application choices, combination licenses, limited entry draw, application fees, party applications, and points only period all need to be taken into consideration.

To better understand the system, we recommend checking out the video below by magazine and hunter networking site Huntin’ Fool before applying through Montana Fish and Wildlife Parks.

Where is the Best Place to Hunt Elk in Montana?

Most of Montana’s elk populations reside in the western and southwestern parts of the state. Hunters acquiring permits for units in these parts of the state tend to be more successful, simply due to the number of elk available.

The west and southwest parts of the state are also the most popular for permit applications, so your chances of getting a permit in these areas are lower.

If you don’t mind doing a little work and want to hunt where there are plenty of elk but not so many hunters, consider applying for permits in units on the eastern half of the state.

Are There Places in Montana Where Hunting is Not Allowed?

There are a number of places in Montana where you are not allowed to hunt for any game animals, including elk.

In general, these areas are the state’s two national parks (Glacier and Yellowstone), and all the tribal reservations in the state. If your permit borders one of these areas, make sure you are well aware of the boundaries.

How Many Elk Can Be Taken with a General License and Permit?

The general elk license for both residents and non-residents will allow you to harvest one elk per year.

However, you may be able to harvest one additional animal if you can acquire a Montana “B” hunting license. This license allows you to harvest one elk without antlers on particular management units within the state.

These units change from year to year. If you want to try to get a “B” license, you will need to know where you are allowed to hunt.

Beware of Predators!

Montana is home to some of the largest and most dangerous predator animals in the United States. Each year elk hunters cross paths with grizzly bears, black bears, wolves, and mountain lions.

These animals are less interested in you than they are in the carcass of the elk you’ve killed.

Grizzlies cause the most problems in Montana, with hunters and guides being attacked, harassed, mauled, or killed by grizzly bears each year.

You should know how to be safe and avoid encounters with grizzly bears and other predatory wildlife if you are planning an elk hunting trip to Montana.

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• The Best Trout Fishing in Montana
• How Hot Does It Get in Montana? Important Things You Need to Know
• How Cold Does It Get in Montana? Things You Should Know