DISCLAIMER: This is a guide. Everything listed within is for information purposes only. All loads should be worked up carefully. We have seen loads that require as much as two grains of charge weight adjustment from one powder lot to another. We have seen as much as five grains of powder adjustment required between different brands of brass. Failure to start low could result in damaged equipment or injury. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK.

7 MM PRC Cartridge Guide

Here we go again. Hornady announced the 7 PRC. In a market with many similar options, why do we need another? The short answer is that the others are poor designs by today’s standards. I imagine the design goals for the 7 PRC were much the same as the 6.5 and 300 PRC. Like the other PRCs, the parent case of the 7 PRC is the 375 Ruger. Hornady surprised everyone by splitting the difference between the other PRCs. The 2.28″ case length is perfect for a 7mm magnum cartridge. The number one selling point of the PRC cartridges is the modern throat design. The 7 PRC’s freebore of .233” makes it very flexible. It is not too long for the shorter bearing surface 180s and not too short for the larger bullets like the 195 Berger. At SAAMI length, the 7mm PRC will fit inside the 3.4” magazine boxes of last century’s design in SAAMI form. With the larger bullets, it will exceed the 3.4” magazine, but will not need a Wyatt’s box.

7MM Cartridge Options

There are numerous other options when considering a 7mm rifle. On the larger side, we have the 7mm Remington Magnum, the 7mm LRM, the 7mm RUM, and the 28 Nosler. You have the 7mm Winchester Short mag with identical case capacity. Then the 7 RSAUM is on the smaller side. So, what does the 7 PRC offer that the others do not? Let me rule out the 7 RUM and 28 Nosler right off the bat. They are too overbore for me. They wear throats out very quickly, are more prone to carbon rings, and are more difficult to keep in tune. They have short throats and need a custom reamer to make full use of the case’s abilities.

Let’s focus on the 7 RSAUM, 7 WSM, 7 Rem mag, and 7 LRM. Of the bunch, the 7 RSAUM is going to be the most accurate on average and will stay in tune with less work, yet it suffers from a few problems. At SAAMI length, longer bullets occupy too much case capacity. This is a major reason why it has disappeared from factory offerings. When built with a custom reamer and rifle, it is still a great option. The 7 WSM has the same capacity as the 7 PRC, but it suffers from the same shortcomings as the RSAUM. The 7mm Remington Magnum has anywhere from 1-3 grains more H2O capacity than the PRC. Once again, it suffers from a throat that is too short for modern bullets. It remains a great cartridge but has room for improvement. This is the main cartridge the PRC will have to outperform, as far as sales go, to stay around. The 7 LRM is a nearly perfect cartridge for the caliber and the bullets we currently have available. The only issue with it is it is not SAAMI-approved. This makes it a non-starter for production rifles. When compared to these options, the 7 PRC leaves little to be desired in a 7mm cartridge. The case capacity is perfect and the freebore is forgiving. These reasons are why the 7 PRC is going to be the best 7mm cartridge available in factory chamberings. If the success of the 6.5 and 300 PRC is any sign, this cartridge will get tons of aftermarket support. Hornady’s marketing will make this cartridge very popular. The anticipated aftermarket support will be what ensure this cartridge sticks around.

Why Choose The 7MM PRC?

Ok, so none of this tells you why you would build a custom rifle chambered in this cartridge. I have always loved the 7mm cartridges, with the 7 WSM being one of my favorites. Its capacity seems to be the sweet spot. The 7 PRC has the same capacity as the 7 WSM. It is slimmer and longer. This should make it easier to feed from a long-action magazine. I have found the short magnum cartridges don’t feed well from short actions. Because of this, I don’t see the point of short magnums in short actions. The 7 PRC will not quite compete with the 7 RSAUM in the raw accuracy department, but it is close. It will yield more velocity on average. This will translate to smaller horizontal dispersion in adverse conditions at long range. On average, it should also shoot flatter. It will run right with the 7 Rem Mag without needing a custom chamber. These are the reasons this cartridge is likely to be a success. Let’s get into the load information.

Bullets

We are choosing to focus on 175 and larger bullets for now. When time permits, I will work on some 168 Berger data. I don’t see the point of shooting smaller in a .284 when you could shoot the 156 Bergers from a .264. Any of the 168-180 grain bullets will be right at home in this case. My favorites are the Berger 180 VLD and Hybrids, as well as the 180 ELDM. Testing with the 190s and 195s will continue and this guide will be updated when more data is collected. Hornady kindly provided us with the load data provided below. I checked it with 180 Bergers and 180 ELDMs, except for the RL22 loads. This is because RL22 was too temperature sensitive in my previous testing.

******The loads in the above chart are all max loads. WORK UP!******

Powders

The 180s will do very well with the normal powders for this sized case. H4831SC and RL23 should offer good accuracy and low extreme spreads in velocity. They generally will be on the faster side in burn rate, which will yield lower max velocities. Retumbo, N565, and RL26 will perform well and will yield the fastest velocities. My barrel did not yield great accuracy with Retumbo or N565. If I were set on using these two powders, I would try some different primers. RL26 was accurate in my rifle but is not quite as stable as H1000. My favorite powder for the case is H1000. It provides great accuracy and extreme spreads. Velocity will fall right in between the other powders. I have settled on the low node with H1000 and 180 Hybrids at 2895 fps out of a 26” barrel. The case can go quite a bit faster, but the node was just too wide and stable to ignore. The larger bullets will still do great with these powders and will allow the use of slower powders like N570.

******While these may work in our rifles, they may be too hot in yours. WORK UP!******

Primers

Any of the large rifle primers should work in this case. In my experience, with this case capacity, the faster powders do best with Federal 210Ms and CCI BR2s. The slower powders do well with CCI 250s or Federal 215Ms. Don’t be afraid to experiment. Most of my testing was done with CCI 250s. Forum member 8nbait was having better luck with Federal 210Ms.

At the time of launch, the only case options will be Hornady and RCC. My testing was done with Hornady brass. Forum members 8nbait and Weatherbyfan were using RCC.

Comparing 6.5 vs 7 vs 30

Bullet mass and impact velocity should be heavily considered when choosing a cartridge. The correct choice will ensure ethical kills at your maximum range. The bullet mass is going to have a direct impact on the recoil. For some, this needs to be considered. I will never advocate shooting elk with calibers smaller than .308. However, 30-caliber magnums are not needed for deer and antelope-sized game. The 7mm caliber is a great choice for deer and smaller game. Too many people focus on energy as a killing power indicator. Based on countless instances of anecdotal evidence, this is just not the case. Bullet mass and impact velocity are better predictors of how fast an animal will go down. This mainly applies to frangible bullets, which we prefer over bonded bullets. Below is a comparison between a few different cartridges in each caliber. You will see they look very similar on paper. Just keep in mind bullet mass means more shrapnel to destroy the vitals of your target.

7MM PRC Conclusion

If you take a look at a reloading manual, you will not see much of a difference between the 7 PRC, the 7WSM, and the 7 Rem mag. What you are gaining is a better-designed factory chamber. The longer freebore will allow a reloader to make better use of modern bullets. The 7 PRC’s modern design will lead to a much better selection of factory ammunition. However, if the success of the other PRCs is an indicator, this cartridge will continue to grow. It will be a hit with those using factory ammunition as well as reloaders. The cartridge will be great for all hunters. Whether you choose a factory rifle or go the custom route, the 7 PRC is worthy of your consideration. The link below will take you to a thread on the forum with members’ input on loads that have worked for them.

Comment or ask Ryan questions here.

Watch the 7mm PRC Cartridge Guide Video here.

So, you have some snapping turtles in your pond and want to get rid of them, huh? Well, you’ve come to the right palace!

In this article we will be exploring why you should get the snapping turtles out of your pond, and what the best and most humane way to do this is.

Keep on reading to find out why these snappy little guys need to go, how you can minimize the risk to yourself, and also to them…

Why would you want to get rid of snapping turtles?

Snapping turtles, as cute as they may look, are actually pretty dangerous! They can enter your garden pond or water feature easily from any neighboring stretches of water. If you live near a river or lake, for example, they could easily make their way to your nice, quiet pond.

The reason they are so dangerous is because of the type of animal they are. They are carnivorous animals which means that they will not think twice about snapping up your ornamental fish.

They have also been known to eat baby ducks, geese, and other waterbirds. So, needless to say, it is best to get rid of them! However, this can be easier said than done, especially since they also carry a huge risk towards humans too.

The bite of a snapping turtle is extremely painful and can cause really serious damage. They are also known to carry the infection known as salmonella, putting you at risk of infection from their bite.

With this in mind, the way you approach these creatures needs to be well planned and executed carefully. Follow our tips to find out how to get rid of snapping turtles.

Check the Regulations in the Local Area

Before you do anything, it is very important that you check the rules and regulations for the area in which you reside. The reason for this is because many local authorities have certain ways of dealing with animals that are a danger.

The authorities will help you in the best ways to trap them, as well as letting you know where you can release them back into the wild. Some locations, for example, may be off-limits due to the carnivorous nature of these animals.

As well as this, some animals may be protected by certain authorities. Your local authority will be able to advise you on how to deal with the snapping turtles, and may even come out to deal with them for you!

Choose Your Humane Trap

Notice the word ‘humane’! This is very important! We have already stated this but we think it is important to remind you again that whilst they are undesirable characters in your pond, they are just animals trying to do the best they can to survive.

The traps that you get to get rid of these turtles should be live traps, meaning that they can be caught with no harm done to them. Usually, you can choose from either floating or non floating traps.

Either is fine but just ensure the non floating trap is positioned on solid ground so the snapping turtle has access to oxygen or else they will drown. Choosing either of these traps will make it far easier to transport them to safety and will minimize the risk of you getting hurt, too.

Choose Your Bait for the Trap

Choosing the right type of bait for your snapping turtle trap is essential. You will need to lure them into the trap, and so you need to choose something that will be attractive to them. Remember, snapping turtles are carnivores!

So, for this reason, you should seek out bait that will appeal to them such as meat or fish. They prefer meat with very strong scents! This allows them to track the bait better. This also means that even if the bait gets wet, the scent will remain strong and will be able to be easily identified by your snapping turtles.

With this in mind, we recommend that you should choose strong-smelling fish, beef, liver, and other animal organs such as kidney. These all have strong scents that not even water could lessen.

Set Up Your Snapping Turtle Trap

Now that you have chosen your trap and bait for the trap, you can set it all up together. It is super important that any bait you use is placed deep enough inside the trap to allow the snapping turtle to get fully inside it. Place the trap in a shallow area, as this is where the turtle is most likely to hunt for food.

If your trap is non floating then you will need to place it so that part of it is out of the water. As such, it will need to be on a bank or partly on the shore.

If you do not do this then the turtle will be trapped without oxygen and will drown.

This should be avoided at all costs since the snapping turtle does not need to be killed in order to get rid of it. It is very important that you deal with your snapping turtle infestation humanely.

Relocate Your Snapping Turtle

When you have finally got your snapping turtles inside the trap, now is the time to relocate them.

As annoying as they are, and as detrimental as they can be to your pond, they are just innocent animals. They are acting on their natural instincts and deserve to be able to live a good life.

You should take them to a safe water source, approved by the local authorities to relocate them. Alternatively, you could ask for advice from the local authorities or even ask them to do this part for you.

You should take extreme care when handling a snapping turtle since their bite is dangerous, and can cause lots of pain and damage. They also have very sharp claws which can easily tear through your skin. Always wear gloves to protect yourself around them.

by Pete Cooper Jr.

The waters within interior salt and brackish marshes across virtually the entire Gulf coast hold red drum throughout most of the year. However, these fish are not pushovers. That is entirely a result of their environment and the main reason why so many anglers have trouble successfully fishing here. If you are one of those but would like to solve the riddle and experience the exciting action found in these areas, try adhering to the following tips.

Interior marshes are typically comprised of broad stands of various emergent grasses pocked with shallow ponds – with or without submerged grasses – and laced with small, shallow creeks and cuts. As the tide rises, it floods these ponds and shoreline grasses along the cuts or creeks. The rising water makes these sites accessible to various prey species. Those creatures now move into these nutrient-rich areas, and the redfish follow.

In interior areas it is almost always best to follow the fish into the shallowest water that you can operate your boat. As the tide continues to rise, continue to look for shallow spots. Water over 1 1/2 feet deep quickly becomes a detriment, as it masks signs of a fish’s presence.

Periods of slack tide – either on the low end or the high end – are usually best spent taking a nap or returning to the marina for a bite. Just be sure you are back on the water when the tide begins to move again. When it starts to fall, target the creeks and cuts.

These can be worked effectively by either moving along their shorelines where the falling water is pulling bait from the recently flooded grass or by anchoring at the point where a cut drains a pond. There, the current created by the water falling through the cut pulls prey from the pond. Redfish are well attracted to these feeding stations.

As a rule, redfish in open water aren’t all that bright, and some of them can act like they want to be caught. However, if you assume the fish you encounter in the marshes are so afflicted, you won’t catch many of them.

You must move about very stealthily while fishing shallow ponds and creeks. Paddling is best if your boat allows it. Push-poling ranks a close second and provides better visibility, but it’s rather difficult to make a quick, accurate cast with a 16-foot push-pole in one hand. Unless there’s a buddy aboard who is willing to alternate rod and push-pole with you, sculling while sitting on the boat’s bow is the better option if at all possible.

If you are averse to paddling, the water’s depth is sufficient and there isn’t a profusion of submerged grass in the area, a bow-mounted trolling motor can be used effectively. But it should be set on the lowest speed that produces headway.

Whatever method of propulsion you decide on, go slowly. While that allows you to search for fish more effectively, the main reason is to prevent the boat from creating large pulses through the water that can be detected by the fish, alerting them that something is not quite right. Reds often simply swim out of the way of a boat that is just creeping along, not in the least bit alarmed. Others caught unaware may bolt, but after they dash off a ways they occasionally seem to forget what all the fuss was about. A cast at fish that respond to the boat’s presence in these manners can result in strikes you would have not received had your boat been pushing a large wave through the water.

One of the most exciting things about fishing the waters within interior marshes is that much of it is done by sight. As you move stealthily along, always look and listen for signs of fish.

A large wake moving slowly along the edge of a small pond or creek channel is definitely worth a speculative cast. A much better bet is the tip of a tail intermittently puncturing the water’s surface beside a patch of submerged grass. An entire tail waving merrily at you anywhere you might encounter one is almost a sure thing.

Then there are “crawlers” – fish which move with some purpose in water so thin that their dorsal fins and part of their backs are exposed. These fish might also appear to be almost a sure thing, but they demand a very precise cast. Unlike a “tailer,” which is a stationary target, a crawler must be led just far enough to prevent the lure’s impact from spooking the fish, yet close enough for the fish to detect it. Knowing just how much to lead the fish is determined in great part by experience and blind dumb luck! Do not expect consistent results with crawlers – but then, that’s what makes fishing for them such a hoot.

In clear water, redfish can be detected relatively easily beneath the surface. For best results, work the up-wind shorelines where emergent vegetation creates a calm surface. Move along in the direction allowing the best sub-surface visibility. Wear amber or yellow polarized sunglasses and a cap that is dark green on the underside of the bill. If you are moving along slowly and stealthily, you can spot these fish quite close to the boat, so be prepared for a short, quick cast with minimal movement.

On first inspection, a pond, creek or cut may seem to be relatively featureless. This is not the case. Irregularities abound and are often quite attractive to bait species seeking nourishment or shelter. In such places, redfish are likely to be nearby.

Small grass points in a creek’s shoreline may extend into water that is slightly deeper than that found along the adjacent bank. Here any current may be slightly stronger, causing bait to be carried along by the flow. Such a feature makes a good ambush point and should be prospected with a cast or two wherever found.

Other good spots are at intersections, especially where one cut or creek is much different from the other. It can be larger, smaller or shallower, just as long as the two channels differ. These sites are usually best on a falling tide, but they can be productive during the low end of a rising tide. Particularly target any shoreline shallows located there.

During low tide you may notice some shells on the bank of a creek. These may extend well out into the waterway, providing protection for prey species. Never pass up an accumulation of shoreline shells without making a cast or two across the water next to them.

Finally, fish may be found anywhere in ponds where the bottom is carpeted with thinly growing submerged grasses. But places where the grass grows in thick patches – often matting on the surface – tend to limit the area used by the fish. Take plenty of time looking around and casting a pond that has clumps of matted grass scattered throughout it.

Some of the hottest lures going these days for reds in interior marshes are spoon flies. They are not really flies but were created for use with fly rods. These lures do look and act like a single-hook spoon. They are very light and sink quite slowly, usually have a mono weed guard. The lures wobble and flash about, emitting audible as well as visible imitations of a baitfish. Though small at 1 1/4 inches, the redfish absolutely love them!

Of course, spin-fishermen can employ very similar lures. In this setting, especially with clear water, a small and loud 1/5-ounce, single-hook spoon can be a good choice. In areas where submerged grass presents a problem, try a 1/8-ounce buzzbait dressed with a 2 1/2-inch soft-plastic grub. In the slightly deeper cuts and creeks, junior-sized surface lures can produce some very entertaining strikes.

But day in and day out, the most reliable lure is a spinnerbait created from a gold, No. 3 1/2 safety-pin spinner, a 1/8-ounce jighead, and a 2 1/2-inch grub. With that you can make a relatively delicate presentation to a crawler, buzz it past a tailer at the edge of a thick patch of grass, or prospect the intersections, points and accumulations of shells along a creek’s shoreline.

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Remi Warren is an outdoor enthusiast who is renowned for his knowledge and use of binoculars. He understands the importance of having the right pair of binoculars for the job and has an impressive collection to choose from. Binoculars are essential for any outdoor activity, and Remi Warren has used them for hunting, bird watching, and astronomy. His binoculars range from small, lightweight models, to large, powerful binoculars for long-range observation. He also has a range of specialized binoculars for different applications, such as night vision binoculars for low light use and water-resistant binoculars for marine use. Remi Warren is an expert in the field of binoculars and has shared his knowledge and experience with the world in his book “The Ultimate Guide to Binoculars”. He is a passionate binoculars user and has helped countless people find the right pair of binoculars for their needs.

What Binoculars Does Meat Eater Use?

Binoculars are a necessary tool for any meat-eater, whether you’re a hunter or an outdoor enthusiast. Binoculars allow you to better observe and identify potential game, and can be used to look for signs of wildlife such as tracks, scat, and antler rubs. They also provide a great way to scan the landscape and help you spot animals from a distance. Binoculars come in a variety of sizes and magnifications, so you can choose the right model for your needs. Many binoculars also feature special coatings, such as anti-reflection and water-repellent, which can be great for outdoor use. With a good pair of binoculars, any meat-eater can enjoy the outdoors and find their game with ease.

Is there any magnification power that meat eaters use? With a magnification of 10×50, you can see details in the sage brush that you couldn’t see with a macro lens. A six-power binoculars is typically lighter and less expensive, and they provide a more dramatic improvement in contrast to your normal binoculars. When we reach 100 yards for small game and 300 yards for big game, we are no longer in the 10-power zone. When the browtine is 300 to 500 yards away, a 1042 binocular should be sufficient magnification to see it. A good glass, in addition to calming your eyes, can also help you relax.

Steve Rinella’s Top Pick: Vortex Razor Uhd Binoculars For Hunters

Steve Rinella, host of MeatEater on the Sportsman Channel, recommends the Razor UHD binocular lineup as one of his favorite all-around binoculars for hunters and outdoor enthusiasts. Steve, who has extensive experience hunting and watching in the great outdoors, is confident that these binoculars will be a great addition to any hunting or viewing outfit. The 10×42 or 12×50 binoculars are lightweight and powerful enough to allow users to see animals in action without being detected, as well as spots where rubbings and game trails are obscured by the naked eye. Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced hunter, binoculars can help you improve your hunting skills. When using binoculars for scouting and hunting, they not only make the hunt easier but also make it easier to locate animals in the field. When mounting binoculars on a tripod, a hunter can gain a better view of his surroundings and identify nuances in the terrain that would otherwise be impossible to see with the naked eye. It is not a decision to make lightly; binoculars are an important tool for any hunter, and selecting the right pair can be difficult. However, if you want an all-around binocular that’s lightweight and powerful, Steve Rinella’s Razor UHD binoculars are a great choice.

What Binoculars For Elk Hunting?

When it comes to hunting elk, having the right binoculars is essential. Binoculars for elk hunting should have a wide field of view, a magnification of at least 8x, and a light weight design. Look for binoculars with a wide field of view to ensure you can spot your prey from a comfortable distance. Higher magnifications may also help you to spot elk more easily, but they also make the binoculars heavier and more difficult to carry. Choose a pair of binoculars with an ergonomic design and a light weight frame to make transporting them on your hunting trips easier. Investing in quality binoculars will ensure you have the tools you need to spot and track elk on your next hunting expedition.

Hunting requires the use of the proper binoculars. Western hunters should aim with the most magnification they can afford, whereas the majority of deer hunters should aim with 8x and 10x magnification. The M22 binocular is the Army’s and Marine Corps’ primary field binocular, and it has a magnification of 7x and a magnification of 50mm. This item is approximately 7 inches long by 7.2 inches wide by 7.4 inches high and weighs approximately 28 pounds, making it an excellent choice for both hunters and trappers in both regions. M22 binoculars have a much broader field of vision and are extremely useful for spotting prey from long distances. They can be used in any type of weather because they are waterproof and fog-proof. Hunting with the M22 binocular is as simple as saying it is a successful hunt.

What Binocular Magnification Is Best For Deer Hunting?

When it comes to deer hunting, binocular magnification is an important factor in helping to spot and identify your target. The best magnification for deer hunting is typically 8x or 10x. This provides enough power to be able to see the animal from a distance, while also providing a wide field of view that allows you to scan and pick up movement in the brush. The 8x or 10x magnification also helps to reduce the amount of shake that can occur when trying to focus on a target at a distance.

At the magnification level, the closer objects appear at a greater rate. With a 10x magnification, you can see a deer that is 200 yards away as if it were 20 yards away. Buying a pair of binoculars of high quality is an investment, but if you find one that meets all of your criteria, it will be worthwhile. Deer are more likely to be discovered in open areas, but elk are more common as well. If you want to see more sights in the Western United States, you should invest in a good pair of 10x binos. You can use a tripod with a magnification of 10x or higher with binoculars. A high-powered bino can cause your hands to shake while you’re taking long observation sessions.

Hunting binoculars should be no more powerful than 6-12x magnification, and they should not be necessary if you plan on using them for short distances. When observing at high magnification, a tripod will ensure steady views. All of these factors contribute to how a binocular is perceived as a tool.

When it comes to hunting optics, it is now common practice for hunters to use 3-9x variable scopes. This scope has the advantage of being versatile, allowing it to provide a wide field of view at close range while also providing magnification for long-distance shots. For some experienced shooting enthusiasts, 6x magnification may be sufficient. Those who want to get the best out of their shots in the field may prefer a magnification of 10x or more. If you combine high quality and magnification, a 10-x variable scope will perform well and be more accurate. When you want the best optics and performance out of a scope, a 3-9x variable scope is an excellent choice for any hunter, whether you are a beginner or a seasoned veteran.

Remi Warren Watch

Remi Warren watch is a luxury watch brand that is known for its classic style, quality materials and craftsmanship. The watches are designed to embody the spirit of adventure and exploration, making them perfect for the outdoor enthusiast. The watches are crafted with Swiss movement and come in a range of styles and colors, from sports watches to dress watches. They also feature a variety of features such as water resistance, luminous hands and date displays. Whether you are looking for a sophisticated timepiece for a special occasion, or an everyday watch for the outdoors, Remi Warren has the perfect watch for you.

Remi Warren’s Hunting Setup: Pro Tips For The Aspiring Hunte

Remi Warren is no stranger to the spotlight; he is widely regarded as one of the world’s foremost hunters, and his weapon of choice is of extreme importance. It is powered by a strong set of HD275 Day Six gear arrows, combined with two Evo broadheads, which weigh a total of 585 grams. Remi is shooting at the @mathewsinc. V3X 33 75# should be used to make it even hotter. The heavier arrow is accelerated by his 30 draw length. Remi Warren’s hunting show, Solo Hunter TV, is available on Prime Video. Remi’s adventures in this series include a wide range of hunting adventures around the world as well as his impressive skills. We’ll show you how to live a hunting lifestyle by interviewing one of the best hunters around.

Remi Warren Rifle

The Remi Warren Rifle is an iconic firearm known for its quality and accuracy. It is a limited-edition hunting rifle that is highly sought after by hunters, collectors, and gun enthusiasts alike. The Remi Warren Rifle was designed by legendary gunsmith Remi Warren and is a classic bolt-action rifle with a high-quality walnut stock and a 22-inch barrel. It is popular for its precision and accuracy, making it a great choice for both hunting and target shooting. The Remi Warren Rifle is a great gun for both experienced and novice shooters, and can provide years of reliable use.

Sako S20 rifles have been around for quite some time and offer some excellent features. The S20, with its highly modular system, maintains excellent accuracy. M-Lok attachment points are required to attach additional accessories such as a barricade stop or a monopod to precision rifle stocks. This bolt action rifle has a classic European appearance. You can expect years of accurate shooting with the S20, which is a highly adaptable option. Sub-moa accuracy is assured by the guns of Christensen Arms, with more expensive models having half-moa accuracy. threaded barrels for controlling recoil when using a lightweight rifle.

The Tika T3x comes in a variety of calibers as well as 19 different base configurations. The Tika is a very popular rifle among hunters and anglers at 749.99 dollars, making it one of the most affordable and well-known firearms. If Remi used this rifle in the past, it would be a great buy for someone on a tight budget who is looking for a fine rifle.

Remi Warren Gear List

Remi Warren is an avid outdoorsman and hunter, and his gear list is an impressive testament to his lifestyle. He carries a variety of essential items such as a headlamp, knife, and fire starter, along with more specialized tools such as a game-calling system, rangefinder, and GPS device. He also carries an extensive first aid kit, as well as food, water, and shelter for any unexpected situations. All of these items are essential for any serious hunter, and Remi’s gear list is a great example of the thought and preparation that goes into the sport.

A few of the most useful items in your hunting pack may not actually be hunting items at all. If you want to save time and money, I’ve compiled a list of my top five most underrated pieces of kit and what you can do with them on a regular basis. Every hunter should have new things in their pack that should be MagGyver-ing. Fill a bottle halfway with hot water and tightly seal it to keep it warm at night. The cold isn’t keeping us from doing this, so it’s a great way to get the most out of your day and sleep well at night. One of the strangest bottle uses I have come across was from a friend who told me he kept one in the tent to pee in while camping. While it is true that the size of a deer ear varies from area to area, you can measure a few from where you intend to hunt.

Deer eyes can be used to measure the circumference of their antlers. The ear span in the natural alert position is approximately 20 to 22 inches wide. In the hunt, there should be some type of cord in each hunter’s pack, such as P-cord or utility cord. Cord is something I bring on every trip because it can be used in a variety of ways. A phone can act as a signal mirror. You can still survive even if your phone dies in the worst-case scenario. Garbage bags are one of the most useful and underrated items in my hunting gear.

When high-country snow falls, it’s a great way to get plenty of camp water out of the sun and into a bottle catch below. To cross a river quickly and completely, you can use makeshift waders. Hunting poles are becoming increasingly popular as hunters become more daring. These travel pants remove a lot of the felt weight from your pack, help you stabilize in rough terrain, and make your journey more efficient. Poles can be used for both shooting and glassing because they add stability to the shot. Trekking poles, for example, can be used as poles for lightweight tents. What is a rifle sling shoulder holder?

Are they designed for use in rough terrain? Place your extra pole on the side of your pack and slightly extend it above the pack bag. How do trekking poles become spear machines? Although the outcome could have been much different, it did work that way once.

Remi Warren’s Gear For Outdoor Adventures

Remi Warren is a hunter, field editor, and host who has been hunting for many years. His adventure stories have been documented in Western Hunter Magazine, Solo Hunter TV, and The Cutting the Distance podcast. To survive in an outdoor lifestyle, Remi relies on Schnee’s Granite Boots and the Sako S20 rifle, both of which he owns. With the Schnee’s Granite boots, Remi can travel 465,000 vertical feet in a single season without fail thanks to their dependability. These boots have a lightweight design and a superior grip, making them an easy choice for Remi when he needs to get to the point he wants to go. Remi also trusts the Sako S20 Rifle with his hunting activities. He can rely on this rifle for accuracy and reliability when he goes on outdoor adventures. Remi recently got his hands on the Sako S20 for the first time and is excited to share his experience with his followers. Remi Warren’s next adventure will be easier now that he has his trusted gear. Through his passion for the outdoors, he continues to inspire others to pursue their own interests and share his knowledge and enthusiasm.

Remi Warren Shop

Remi Warren Shop is an incredible online shop that specializes in quality outdoor gear. From backpacking and camping to survival, the shop has a wide variety of products from trusted brands like Patagonia, The North Face, and MSR. Whether you need a new tent, sleeping bag, or some camping cookware, Remi Warren Shop has it all. With free shipping on orders over $50, you can get all the gear you need without breaking the bank. With unbeatable customer service and a wide selection of products, Remi Warren Shop is the perfect place to gear up and hit the trails.

Remi Warren Takes His Hunting To The Next Level With Sako S20

Remi Warren’s latest adventure, the Sako S20, has quickly become a favorite of the world’s hunters and anglers. Warren is an avid hunter who is sponsored by Under Armour and specializes in hunting on public land, and the S20 is an excellent fit for him. Warren’s hunting operations have also expanded to include hunts in New Zealand and Africa in recent months. With its innovative design, the Sako S20 is an excellent firearm for hunters, allowing them to achieve perfect balance of accuracy, accuracy, and portability, making it an excellent weapon for a seasoned outdoorer such as Warren. He began sharing his enthusiasm for the firearm on social media, praising its features and stating that it is his go-to gun for any hunting situation. Warren’s Sako S20 is an ideal hunting companion that will last a lifetime.

Remi Warren Height

Remi Warren is an American outdoorsman and hunter, who is known for his work with the National Geographic channel. He stands at 6 feet tall and has a muscular frame. His height helps him when it comes to hunting, as he can more easily traverse difficult terrain and take longer shots. He is also known for his strength, which is an important tool when it comes to packing out big game.

Remi Warren is one of the few brave souls who has self-shot a flawless mule deer hunt with a conventional bow for television. Ryan Warren and Jason Warren, his brothers, were born and raised in New Zealand. According to reports, Remi’s net worth is estimated to be $2 million. Remi Warren married Danielle Warren in a symbolic stone chapel on April 4, 2018, in New Zealand. They met on the night of the event before breaking up due to the pressures of careers. Remi and Danielle both enjoy hunting, and they have both taken part in hunting expeditions in the past. The earnings from Montana Outwest Outfitters are obviously what contribute to Remi Warren’s net worth.

He enjoys sharing his experiences as a hunter and traveler in order to inform the general public. His podcast, Cutting The Distance, has over 100 episodes. He has a large fan base on YouTube, with over 34K subscribers.

Remi Warren: Outdoor Pro, Tv Personality And Podcast Host

Remi Warren is a hunter and outdoor enthusiast who has given others his knowledge and experience through his work as a hunting guide, outfitter, outdoor writer, photographer, videographer, and television personality. He is the creator of the Live Wild podcast network and co-host of Solo Hunter TV, as well as the Cutting the Distance podcast and the Cutting the Distance podcast. He opened Montana OutWest Outfitter in the Bitterroot Valley of Montana at the age of 22 after specializing in elk and deer hunting on public land, and he soon expanded his hunting operations to include hunts in New Zealand and Africa. Warren enjoys the Mathews V3X 33 75# bow, which has an extra twist in the string and a 30″ draw that propels heavier arrows. He is the field editor for Western Hunter Magazine, where he provides readers with the most recent information on hunting and outdoor activities. Remi Warren is not only a well-known outdoor figure; he also hosts the Live Wild podcast Network, which features interviews with other outdoor professionals discussing their hunting experiences. Throughout his life, Warren has found fulfillment in doing what he loves while sharing his knowledge and experiences with others, and he has made a living doing what he loves.

Remi Warren Boots

Remi Warren Boots are the perfect choice for any stylish man looking for a classic look. These timeless leather boots are crafted with an antique-style distressed leather and feature a classic round toe. They feature a cushioned insole and sturdy block heel for all-day comfort and easy walking. With a distressed look, they offer a vintage touch to any look. Whether you are heading to the office, a night out, or a day in the wilderness, these boots will keep your feet feeling great and looking great.

Master Marksman Remi Warren: Making The Most Of Any Hunting Experience

Remi Warren is a highly regarded hunter and outfitter who has spent his entire life in rugged terrain and harsh environments. As a result, he has ascended 465,000 vertical feet in one season in Schnee’s Granite boots, demonstrating their durability and performance. Remi is a master marksman with a knack for accuracy, and his weapons are outfitted with precision. He enjoys hunting with the 7mm Rem Mag, 6.5 Creedmoor, and 300 WSM cartridges. Remi Warren began his hunting career in Montana with Montana OutWest Outfitter in the Bitterroot Valley, specializing in public land hunting for both elk and deer. Since then, he has expanded his hunting operations to include hunts in New Zealand and Africa, earning him the reputation as a leading authority on hunting in all climates and terrains. His dedication to the sport has earned him a loyal following among hunters, and his decision to wear Schnee’s Granite boots demonstrates his dedication to high-quality performance. Remi Warren can take advantage of any hunting experience when he has the proper equipment and a keen eye.

Elk Hunting Repertoire

Elk hunting is an exciting and challenging activity that requires a well-rounded repertoire of skills and equipment. Hunters must have an understanding of the terrain, know how to use a wide range of firearms, as well as have deep knowledge of the habits and behaviors of elk. Additionally, hunters must be outfitted with the proper clothing and gear to ensure safety and comfort while hunting in the wilderness. This includes items such as insulated boots and clothing, a rangefinder, a hunting knife, a backpack, and a bow or rifle. Finally, elk hunters must also be proficient in tracking and locating the animals, as well as have the patience and skill to make a successful shot. With the proper knowledge, equipment, and skills, elk hunters can have an exciting and rewarding experience.

Every year, we put Elks on public lands, and it works because we’ve done it so well that you can also do it. Learn how to use calling effectively to communicate with elk, and you will find that you are not required to hunt them the same way you would deer. Learning Curves exist. The situation is amusing, but it is a difficult one to resolve. If you bury your calls in the bottom of your pack or leave them at camp, you’ll be jeopardizing your hunting skills. Once you learn how to use mouth reeds and gain control of them, you can confidently use them on your elk. The elevation is not a joke.

I would suggest arriving at least four days before the hike to allow enough time to get used to the elevation. A challenge bugle, for example, simply removes them from view in that situation. When I was a boy, I’ve seen elk in areas with private owners. They just didn’t say anything public about it.

Elk Hunting In Wyoming & Colorado: Affordability And Abundance

Wyoming and Colorado are two excellent places to hunt elk. Wyoming has the cheapest Wyoming elk hunting tags, with bull tags starting at $600 and cow/calf tags starting at only $150. Furthermore, many hunting units in Wyoming are 100% successful with drawing. Colorado has the second largest elk population in the country, and it also has over-the-counter options, making it the most popular state for hunting. Wyoming is an ideal place to hunt elk for those looking for a low-cost experience due to its unbeatable combination of affordability, availability, and population. Colorado, on the other hand, is a great place for hunters looking for the best elk hunting in the country. The opportunities for elk hunting in both states are extremely appealing.

The title of this post is not referring to the stove bans in several states during summer months, which are becoming more and more frequent.

Stove Bans

For those who are unfamiliar with these bans, different government agencies often ban the use of campfires and any stove without an On/Off valve to turn off the stove. Two popular backpacking stove types; solid fuel (usually Esbit) and alcohol stoves are usually explicitly banned. I do question the wisdom of banning solid fuel stoves, which I no longer use due to the high cost of the fuel.

The problem with alcohol stoves, along with any stove or campfire is user error, or perhaps better stated; a lot of people are plain stupid or careless. Except for when it is dark at night, the flame from alcohol stoves is difficult to see. Apparently some people can knock over their alcohol stove while in use (I find this difficult to do and have never had any problem like this) and some have started forest fires because they cannot use an alcohol stove properly.

I have no problem obeying these stove bans. They are put in place for a good reason.

Cost Advantages of Alcohol Fuel Stoves

It is pretty easy to make an alcohol stove from recycled soda cans or cat food cans. If you might be interested in building your own stove do a Google search for “soda can stove” or “pepsi can stove” or” fancy feast stove.”

Several years ago I did a cost analysis of several fuels and found that liquid gas stoves and alcohol fuel stoves were much, much cheaper to operate than gas canister or solid fuel stoves.

Since then I have mostly been using liquid fuel stoves that run on white gas (such as Coleman Fuel), or an alcohol stove using denatured alcohol as its fuel. At the time both were easy to find and inexpensive compared to other fuels.

Obsolescence

Earlier this year, in my long-term 35 year review of the Gaz Globetrotter stove, I complained that over the years several of my canister stoves became obsolete. Not because the stoves quit working, but because the fuel canisters were no longer available. The inability to purchase the fuel canisters rendered the stoves obsolete. Denatured alcohol is no longer legal to sell or purchase in California, which just about makes my alcohol stove obsolete, as I found this fuel to be best for several reasons.

Well, Nick You Live in California . . .

My friends who live in other states often question why I continue to live in the People’s Republic of California with all our regulations and high taxes. The reason I don’t move is because of our great climate and so many outdoor recreation opportunities.

But the people of California didn’t ban denatured alcohol. It was banned by a government agency that doesn’t have a single elected representative of the people, the California Air Resources Board. From Wikipedia:

The Administrative State

A law professor at George Mason University School of Law, Michael Greve, coined the term Administrative State. Greve defines this as,

Professor Greve advocates that this is contrary to the intention of our founding fathers and these government agencies become corrupt seeking power over the people, resulting in despotism.

Pournelle’s Iron Law of Bureaucracy

Jerry Pournelle , the famous polymath, observed this shift in bureaucracies and developed “Pournelle’s iron law of bureaucracy”:

Later Pournelle refined the law to make it easier to understand:

. . . in any bureaucratic organization there will be two kinds of people: those who work to further the actual goals of the organization, and those who work for the organization itself. Examples in education would be teachers who work and sacrifice to teach children, vs. union representatives who work to protect any teacher including the most incompetent. The Iron law states that in all cases, the second type of person will always gain control of the organization, and will always write the rules under which the organization functions.

Government by and for The People

Today it is impossible for any one person to keep up with all the laws passed by local, county, state, federal legislatures, plus all the non-elected entities in our country. It is especially difficult to track all the bureaucracies that now create most of our laws.

Yeah, But That Can’t Happen in the State I Live In

Don’t be so sure. A great example is vehicle emission laws. Years ago, California adopted much more stringent standards than the Federal Government. For many years automakers built two separate models of each car: one for sale in California and one for sale in the other 49 states. Trying to adhere to the many demands of competing agencies that included more and more separate testing and reporting, the carmakers gave up and now build their cars and light trucks to meet the more stringent car and light standards of California. Many states have adopted California’s periodic emission testing methods and expensive testing equipment.

Along with this, we have wealthy moneyed organizations in California lobbying in other states and in Federal Government to institute California’s “better way” across the entire country.

Why California Banned Denatured Alcohol.

I won’t get into the scientific particulars, especially since I am not a scientist. California has banned most consumer and industrial products that contain volatile organic compounds (VOC). Literally thousands of products have been banned and manufacturers must reformulate their products for sale in the Golden state. The range of products includes paints, varnishes, waxes, cleaning, disinfecting, cosmetic, degreasing and hobby products. California has determined VOCs contribute to climate change.

In California we can no longer buy Mineral Sprits now either. As I explained in these two threads about my TrailStar shelter and my Mega Light shelter, diluting silicone with mineral spirits is a popular way to seam seal a tent. No longer the case in my state.

Instead of a long list of affected products, I will just say that we now have cleaners that do not clean, paint remover that doesn’t remove paint, paint and lacquer thinners that don’t thin, paints that don’t paint well, and so on.

There are states nearby that still sell products that work. Often our out of state camping trips include a stop along the way to buy anything I am running low on. A recent trip obtained these items.

Environmental Protection Agency (EPA)

The EPA has thousands and thousands of documents relating to VOCs. Most that I have read are concerned with personal health effects in their handling, especially when used indoors. From what I have read, the EPA’s focus is on communication to warn of side effects if the materials are not handled safely per the products instructions for use and storage – in other words – read the damn instructions!

Keep in mind I haven’t done a comprehensive review of EPA documentation of VOCs. So take my observations with a grain of salt.

Alternative Fuels for Alcohol Stoves

Everclear (190 proof)

This is a brand name for grain alcohol that contains 95% alcohol. I hear it works really well. But few states allow its sale because it is alcohol that can be consumed – the same stuff you find in almost all liquors.

HEET (yellow bottle version)

This stuff works well in an alcohol stove. BUT, it is 95% methanol and can be dangerous to our health. Not only from the fumes of the product itself, but from the fumes generated when burned in a stove. The product is toxic and can even be absorbed into the body from skin contact. I haven’t used it for probably 10 years or so.

You do not want to use HEET that is sold in the red bottles. It works poorly in a stove.

99% Isopropyl Alcohol

Also known as rubbing alcohol. Lower alcohol content (91%, 70%, 50%, etc.) means the alcohol content has been diluted with mostly water. 99% Isopropyl will burn in an alcohol stove. Actually it will boil water faster than most other fuels used in these kinds of stoves. The amount of soot leftover on the stove and pot is considerable. For me, it is so bad that the fuel is a very poor choice for stove fuel.

So that’s about it for fuel options that are viable for use in alcohol stoves.

When (not if) your state follows the lead of the People’s Republic of California, then your alcohol stove will be rendered obsolete.

When your ATV doesn’t start, it can be frustrating, inconvenient, worrying, and confusing. There are so many things that cause an ATV to not respond to your will, so it’s good to know the most common reasons for an ATV to not start and the symptoms that will clue you in on the real reason behind your quad’s stubborn refusal to get going.

Why isn’t my ATV starting?

To start, an ATV needs enough fuel, air, spark, and power in the battery. When any of these things are lacking, your ATV won’t start up.

If these things have been taken care of, there could be a problem with the electrics, such as the kill switch. To work out which of these issues is the most likely, first consider whether the engine is starting at all.

My ATV engine isn’t turning over at all

Is the ATV in gear?

Many ATVs won’t start up if they’re in gear as a safety precaution. Double-check that your ride is in park.

Is the kill switch engaged?

OK, though this is the simplest possible answer to your problem, it’s also the most common reason an engine won’t crank up at all. The kill switch, also known as the run switch, should be in the “RUN” or “ON” position. Some ATVs have a kill switch with a tether pull cord, so make sure this is connected correctly before you start taking apart your machine in frustration.

Is the ATV battery dead?

Your ATV won’t start if the battery doesn’t have enough charge. Check the battery using a voltmeter or multimeter. If you’ve somehow completely discharged the battery, you can use a smart battery charger designed for ATVs to bring it back to life. Sometimes, you’ll simply have to replace the battery if it’s past its prime.

Is the ATV solenoid getting power?

When you turn the key or hit the start button, you should hear a clicking sound. This clicking sound is the solenoid, which is a switch used to send current to your starter. If it’s not getting power from the battery, your ATV won’t start.

You’ll find the solenoid near the starter. Connecting a multimeter (red to red, black to ground) to the solenoid will show you whether the solenoid is getting power. If not, and your battery is charged, there’s a problem with the wiring or connections between the battery and the solenoid.

My ATV engine turns over but doesn’t start

If everything above has been taken care of, your ATV engine should turn over. If it turns over but doesn’t start, we should now consider a potential problem with the fuel, spark, or air systems.

Before you leave for a ride, make sure you keep all basic tools and essential spare parts on board. Discover a range of storage options.

Is the ATV engine getting fuel?

Let’s assume your ATV has adequate fuel and the fuel shut-off valve has not been closed off. Find your spark plug, which is usually behind some protective casing. On a carbureted ATV, remove the spark-plug wire, while on a fuel-injected ATV, remove the ignition coil. To take out the spark plug, use a spark-plug removal tool.

Check to see if the spark plug is dry. If so, the fuel isn’t getting to your cylinder. There is a problem either with the fuel pump or the lines between the gas tank and the carb. This will require finding the location of the problem through a process of elimination and then cleaning.

If the problem lies in the fuel intake system, there are different repair steps for carbureted ATVs and electronic fuel injection ATVs. It will be required to consult your manufacturer’s user guide for details on how to repair the fuel filter, fuel pump, or fuel injector.

Is the ATV engine getting enough spark?

If the spark plug is wet, it may still not be getting enough spark. The easiest way to diagnose this is to use an inline spark tester that fits between the spark plug and the coil/wire. Pressing the starter button should cause the test tool to light up, allowing you to eliminate this as the source of the problem.

If the tool shows there’s a problem with the spark, try testing the kill switch with a multimeter, checking for damaged wires, replacing the spark plug. If none of these relatively simple fixes restores the spark, you may have to replace the ignition coil.

Is the ATV getting enough air?

Your gas tank or gas cap will have a small vent for air to enter and escape. As fuel is pumped out of the gas tank, air is pulled in to replace it. If your gas vent is clogged, the fuel pump won’t be able to draw gas from the gas tank.

These are the main reasons an ATV won’t start and how to troubleshoot the issue. Check them all in turn, and you’ll quickly find the root of your problem and have your ATV back on the road in no time.

California monarchs

Q: Are there two populations of monarch butterflies in California?

A: The bottom line is that it’s unclear, but we continue to track the research, as we are responsible for their conservation and successful migration.

In addition to the declining population of migratory western monarch butterflies, scientists are seeing an increase in resident monarchs that breed year-round. Resident monarchs have been reported in higher numbers in coastal areas from San Diego to the San Francisco Bay Area. Historically, the migratory monarch population overwintered in coastal groves from October to March. During the rest of the year, monarchs migrated and bred throughout states west of the Rocky Mountains. In the past, winter breeding may have occurred at a low level. However, over the past few years it has expanded concurrent with the decline of the migratory population. A 2021 scientific study estimated that there were approximately 12,000 resident monarchs — more than six times the remaining migratory population.

Scientists are currently looking into which factors are influencing the transition to year-round breeding. One hypothesis is that the expansion of nonnative tropical milkweed (Asclepias curassavica) in home gardens may induce winter breeding. Climate change could also play a role as warmer winter weather exposes monarchs to temperatures that can cause them to break reproductive diapause early.

It is unclear whether resident monarchs represent a separate population from the migratory population or if there is intermixing. If they are distinct populations, questions remain over whether the resident and migratory populations can persist side by side. Finally, scientists are still trying to determine if the transition to year-round breeding represents a persistent trend or is a short-term adaptation to local conditions.

As a trustee agency, the California Department of Fish and Wildlife (CDFW) is tasked with protecting California’s flora and fauna, including terrestrial invertebrates like monarch butterflies for their ecological value and enjoyment by the public. California Fish and Game Code (FGC) section 1021 directs CDFW to “take feasible actions to conserve monarch butterflies and the unique habitats they depend upon for successful migration.”

Turkey hunting guides

Q: I’m a fairly inexperienced turkey hunter but I’m interested in learning more this fall. Other than word-of-mouth, do you have any suggestions on how (and where) I might find a good guide?

A: Yes! CDFW maintains a list of licensed guides for both hunting and fishing. You can find the list on our website, and sort by services offered, species targeted and/or county, as well as by name or permit number if you’re looking for a particular guide. Guided hunts are often worth the investment for new hunters – you’re paying for their shared knowledge and experience, and it greatly increases your chances of a successful outing! Good luck!

Lake and streambed alteration

Q: My neighbor is dumping dirt in the creek by our home. Is this legal?

A: It might be. California Fish and Game Code (FGC) section 1602(a) requires notification to CDFW of any activity that would substantially alter the bed, bank or channel of a river, stream or lake, or dispose of material where it could enter into a river, stream or lake. Therefore, it would be illegal for your neighbors to alter the creek bed by your home without notifying CDFW. CDFW requires a Lake and Streambed Alteration (LSA) Agreement when a project activity may substantially adversely affect fish and wildlife resources. For more information, please visit CDFW’s LSA Program online.

FGC section 5650 outlines prohibitions on water pollution including discharge of any of the following into California waterways:

(1) Any petroleum, acid, coal or oil tar, lampblack, aniline, asphalt, bitumen, or residuary product of petroleum, or carbonaceous material or substance.

(2) Any refuse, liquid or solid, from any refinery, gas house, tannery, distillery, chemical works, mill, or factory of any kind.

(3) Any sawdust, shavings, slabs, or edgings.

(4) Any factory refuse, lime, or slag.

(5) Any cocculus indicus.

(6) Any substance or material deleterious to fish, plant life, mammals, or bird life.

If you believe you have witnessed an environmental crime, you should document the incident(s) via CalTip: wildlife.ca.gov/Enforcement/CalTIP. Other agencies, including local government entities, the Regional Water Quality Control Board and Army Corps of Engineers, to name a few, may also have legal authority over these activities.

Bag vs. possession limit

Q: What’s the difference between a bag limit and possession limit? Is the possession limit always double the bag limit?

A: “Bag limit” is defined in California Fish and Game Code (FGC), section 18 as the maximum limit, in number or amount, of birds, mammals, fish, reptiles or amphibians that may lawfully be taken by any one person during a specified period of time. “Possession limit” is defined in FGC, section 19 as the maximum, in number or amount, of birds, mammals, fish, reptiles, or amphibians that may be lawfully possessed by one person.

The answer to your second question is no, the possession limit is not always double the bag limit. Possession limit and bag limit are frequently different, so it’s crucial to consult the appropriate regulations for the fish, game or other species you are attempting to take. As an example, during waterfowl season the daily bag limit is seven ducks. The possession limit for ducks is triple the daily bag limit so a hunter can legally possess 21 ducks.

CDFW Photo

Trotline Fishing Tips and Tricks

Where and When to Set out Trotlines

Catching catfish with trotlines is very fun and a great way to provide family and friends with some of the best table fare there is. While many anglers have their go-to ways of catching catfish, there are several timeless tips and tricks out there that may lead to many more fish on your trotline than the next angler.

The first tip to catching catfish on a trotline would be to identify raises in the waterways you’re fishing. The shallower water that these raises may serve flatheads and other catfish subspecies very well as they pursue food at night. These fish tend to lay in deeper water and cover during the day and navigate into shallower, open water at night to feed.

The next tip would be to pay attention to the time of the year you’re fishing. The three times of the year to identify in your area are pre-spawn, spawn, and post-spawn. The spawn is when fish breed. However, different fish may spawn at different times of the year, so don’t confuse the report of someone fishing for spawning bass or crappie with when the catfish may be spawning. When catfish spawn, many of them tend to stay very close to, if not hovering over a bed. This fixes their focus more on breeding and reproducing than feeding, making them harder to catch on a trotline.

Take the state of Kentucky, for example. Catfish in the state of Kentucky tend to spawn in the month of June. Some of the most successful catfishing anglers may fish up to Memorial Day and then back off of setting trot lines in the month of June. Then, around 4th of July, it’s a great time to get your trotlines back in the water.

A final trick that can prove to produce high yields of catfish is to target flathead catfish in the fall when they are heavily feeding to prepare for winter. Months such as September and October, throughout most parts of the U.S., can prove to be very good months to set trotlines. Especially, for flatheads.

What You Need to Build a Trotline

Building a trotline for catfishing can prove to be a relatively simple way to catch a large amount of catfish with minimal effort. The supplies required to build your own trotline can all be acquired at Walmart and are relatively affordable for the yield of catfish they can all provide. Trotline supplies include:

• Main Line – A roll of Hard Nylon Line (#36)
• Drop Lines (The lines going from your main line to your hooks) – A roll of Hard Nylon Line (#18)
• Fishing Swivels – Requires 2 Swivels Per Drop Line
• Catfish Hooks – Requires 1 per Drop Line; Get as big as size 8/0 for bigger catfish like flatheads and blue cats and as small as size 1/0 for smaller breeds like channel or mud catfish
• Trotline Clips – Used to attach angler information for legality purposes or for attaching weights throughout the trotline to maximize the amount of submersion
• Line Winder – Serves to wind up a trotline in an organized manner

How to Build a Trotline:

• How many hooks should you put on a trotline?
• How long does a trotline need to be?
• How do you assemble a trotline?
• How do you weigh down a trotline?

The first question you need to answer is: How long should my trotline be? To answer this question, you will need to do some scouting. If you’re going to drop your trotline in a big body of water like a lake or reservoir, you may want to tie off to a couple of trees sticking up in shallow water. In this case, your trotline should be long enough to span the distance between the trees. If you’re dropping the trotline in a river, you need to know where you want to fish. Catfish like creeks and rivers with shallow flats next to deeper water. In many cases, these flats run along the bank for short distances. You may need a short trotline in this case. Other times, you may want to go bank to bank and, in these cases, you will need a longer trotline.

Next, you need to know how many hooks to tie to your trotline. The general rule of thumb is to have a hook every six feet. This will give you good coverage, but hooks will not be so close that they tangle up when a hooked catfish starts thrashing. Check the regulations for the lake and state you fish in. In many cases, there are limits on the number of hooks a trotline can have. Also, most states require trotlines to have a form of identification to indicate who owns the trotline. Make sure your trotline is tagged appropriately.

The easiest way to assemble your trotline is to tie your mainline between two trees. Next, tie your 24-inch drop line to the mainline every six feet. After you tie each dropline, go ahead and tie the swivels and hook to the dropline. Some anglers prefer two swivels per dropline and others use one swivel — the choice is yours. Once you are done, wind it up and you’re ready for the water. If you have time and are fishing areas with little traffic, you can do all this at the actual location. Once you’re on the water, simply tie off the main line, tie your drop lines and hooks and then bait as you go.

To sink your trotline to the bottom, you will need to tie weights to your trotline. Most anything will work for a weight. Rocks and coffee cans full of cement are often used. Tie enough weights to get to the depth you need. Generally, there is a heavy weight in the middle and several others on either side. Keep in mind the more weight you have, the more weight you’re pulling up when checking the trotline.

How to Set a Trotline

Your overall setup will only be as good as where you place the trotline and how well you fasten it to each end’s anchor. The following steps serve as a great baseline to properly setup your trotline:

• Identify solid anchor points to tie the trotline to on each side of the body of water you’re fishing. Solid tree roots, green bushes, or fallen timber are great things to search for first.
• Tie each end of the trotline to the identified anchor points.
• Begin on any side of the trotline and place your drop lines on the main line and bait each hook as you assemble the drop lines. As you progress across the trotline, fasten weights to any points on the main line that will help to properly submerge the main line. Continue fastening the drop lines and weights to the other end of the trotline.

Best Bait to Use on a Trotline

When it comes to catching catfish on a trotline, your trotline will only be as attractive as the bait you put on each hook. It is important to know that different subspecies of catfish prefer different types of food. Knowing which subspecies of catfish you’re targeting will help you determine what type of bait to use on your trotline. Some subspecies of catfish prefer live bait, while others prefer lifeless bait.

Questions that may lead you to choosing the best bait for catfish in your water are:

• What kind of catfish are in the water I’m fishing?
• Of those types of catfish, which ones am I targeting?

Best Live Bait to Use on a Trotline

When targeting flathead or channel catfish, live bait can prove to be the most effective.

Best Cut Bait and Artificial Bait to Use on a Trotline

When targeting blue catfish or channel catfish, freshly cut parts of dead fish work best, followed by any types of dead bait or “stink catfish baits.”

Best Hooks to Use on a Trotline

The best hook to use on a trotline is directly correlated with the size and species of catfish you’re targeting and the size of the bait being used on the trotline. When targeting smaller sizes and species of catfish, such as channel catfish or mud catfish, you may look toward a smaller J-Style hook such as sizes 1/0 or 2/0 hooks. As the catfish size and species you’re targeting get larger, so will the size of your hook. When targeting big catfish such as blue catfish or flathead catfish, you should start getting closer to a size 8/0 hook.

When you strip away all the fancy gear, the expensive packs, boots, garments, etc.. hunting elk with archery tackle really boils down to two very simple yet ultra important concepts.

1. Be accurate and precise at distance with your equipment

2. Maximize penetration of your arrow

There is zero argument about elk hunting popularity being on the rise. The influx of new archery hunters, difficulties of legally travel abroad to hunt, and increased content around western hunting all has played a part of the elk hunting surge! With that in mind, we’ve also seen a continuous rise in the questions surrounding the business end of your arrow.

“What is the best broadhead for my elk hunting trip?”

“What broadhead should I be using for elk?”

“What is the best broadhead for elk?”

Elk are certainly not whitetails, but they are certainly not water buffalos either! Outside of the animal itself having a reputation of carrying tough hides and a more dense skeletal structure, what other factors should you be considering when trying to pick the best broadhead to harvest an elk with?

YOUR SHOOTING PLATFORM

Regardless of the animal you are hunting, the very first stop in your process of selecting the right broadhead is your shooting platform. Your bow is the largest factoring part of the equation, PERIOD.

Someone shooting a recurve should not be choosing the same arrow and broadhead setup as someone shooting a crossbow or compound. Taking that a step further, draw weight and length, arrow speed, arrow weight, etc, should all factor in to your broadhead choice.

If we’re talking about a crossbow platform, I am shooting fixed blade broadheads. It’s really that simple. I don’t have to think about it, and I don’t have to consider anything else… I don’t even have to wonder. A fixed blade broadhead that is tough, has excellent penetration statistics, something that has thick blades is what I’m looking for. Flight characteristics at high speeds is critical when shooting a crossbow. A general rule of thumb is vented blades tend to perform better than solid blades and cutting diameters no more than 1 1/2″ tend to be more accurate at longer distances. Our K2-Fixed and Fixed EXT broadheads offer everything a crossbow hunter dreams of.

When we’re talking about compounds you really have a wide variety of broadhead choices. Fixed blades, hybrid blades, and mechanicals are all options but not all are created equal. Pending your bow and arrow setup you have some really good options. The key factor is, again, your bow setup. Understanding your bow’s capabilities with your exact draw length and total arrow weight is ultra important. Low poundage shooters and, in some cases, you folks with short draw lengths really need to take a hard look at fixed blade broadheads. Having the understanding that in certain setups you just can’t afford to lose any KE, these types of scenarios IS THE REASON Afflictor’s hybrid broadheads were created. The patented drive-key design offers next to no loss of KE, and with blades opening at impact, you have a true fixed blade broadhead when entering the animal. We can’t say that about other mechanicals. Across the board, whether you are looking at Afflictor’s fixed blade or hybrid blade broadhead offerings, there’s multiple solutions for all compound shooters. Regardless of your broadhead choice, the important message is make sure you understand your setup and that your bow is a fine tuned machine!

When we are looking at the more traditional setups, these guys tend to like a traditional broadhead, right? A single bevel or potentially other fixed blade options, but some trad guys are actually shooting different hybrid broadheads. Something like our Hybrid X or our K2 Mini in the heavyweight stainless steel versions where they’re getting into 175 grains, are really gaining popularity. An outside the box solution for traditional archers, but hybrid designs can be a viable option.

YOUR ARROW BUILDS

The other consideration on your setup is around your arrow builds.

For seasoned elk hunters, their arrow builds and broadheads go hand in hand with their shooting platform. Since the western hunting is growing and evolving, there’s a lot more new elk hunters in the mountains, and we’re a trend of eastern guys thinking elk are just big deer. “I’m a whitetail hunter and I’m going elk hunting. That mindset is a mistake.

You need to understand you WILL need more Kinetic Energy and Momentum for pass through shots on elk…regardless if you are shooting a mechanical, hybrid, or fixed blade broadhead. You need to understand that the average archery shot on an elk is much longer than the average shot on a whitetail. You need to understand and plan for this. If you are an eastern guy and truly just want to shoot the same arrows for both species, the best advice is to take the “reverse engineer” approach. Build and shoot what will work for the tougher animals and it will work for whitetails.

HUNTING STYLE AND POTENTIAL SHOT OPPORTUNITIES

• Where are you going to be hunting?
• Are you going to be hunting a waterhole with a standard blind placement?
• Are you going to be spot and stalk?
• Are you going to be calling?
• Are you willing to take a shots that is pushing your limits?

Not all western states have the same elk hunting regulations when it comes to archery equipment. Make sure you read and fully understand the regs of the state where you hold your elk tag. Some states have specific requirements around broadheads. For a quick break down you can check out one of our other blogs by clicking here.

Your hunting style will certainly impact the potential for tough shots. If you are planning to only ambush hunt elk, similar to whitetails, shot opportunities tend to be closer and with less obstructions. If you’re like the majority of elk hunters, calling and glassing to locate animals and then closing the distance, it’s pretty common to face less than ideal shot angles, obstructions, and some serious distance.

All these variable influence what type of broadhead will perform best, but the common theme doesn’t change. Make sure you have enough KE and Momentum with great long distance flight characteristics.

CUTTING DIAMETER

One consistent theme over the years, no matter what part of this industry I’ve been, it seems that elk hunters have a preference for a certain diameter cut, no matter what broadhead that they’re shooting….1 1/2″. Now, of course, there’s highs and lows to that, but I’m just saying as an average, in our experience for most people, what they’re looking for is 1 1/2″ cutting diameter.

The discovery behind that is that seems to be the cut that offers the greatest penetration for most people’s set up. When that broadhead hits that 1 1/2″ mark, it seems to really be able to pass through elk and still carry good flight characteristics.

Why does size make a difference? Well, when you start getting into broadhead diameters that are 2″ and up, you really have to have the right setup to drive that home for enough penetration to do fatal damage. You may also be handicapping yourself a little bit because the larger blades sometimes are a little more fragile. They require a lot more energy to open, penetrate, and to pass through. So you really have to be considerate of your overall setup when you’re considering using a larger cut blade. On top of that, larger blade diameters typically do not fly as well as smaller blade diameters.

FIXED VS MECHANICAL

This debate also lives in the elk bowhunting world too. It will never end…it’s like the old Chevy vs Ford talk.

Fixed broadheads are simple in our eyes. They take out some of the performance variables out of the equation, and you know, with the right placement you’re not going to have any problem with an elk. The challenge is long distance flight characteristics. Even though this shouldn’t be any issue with a well tuned bow, folks still want to shy away from the added work in tuning their setup.

Mechanicals have come a long way since their inception. They’re tougher and more reliable than before. Now you can get them with thick blades and some designs don’t require a lot of energy to open. Again, you have to do a little bit of research around your setup to make sure you’re making the right purchase.

When push comes to shove, you need a sharp broadhead that performs at distance. Outside of understanding the archery regulations in the state you are hunting in, confidence in executing a well place shot is king. What ever broadhead gives you these three things is the broadhead you should be shooting.

Author: Chris Creed, Afflictor Broadheads