A bucket-list dream came to life when I spent two days hunting hogs with helicopter pilot Kyle Lange, and learned some intense lessons along the way. Lange estimates he fires an average of 30,000 rounds at havoc-wreaking feral hogs and coyotes annually.

As a gun guy, I’d wheeze with enthusiasm over the opportunity to shoot at simple inanimate targets out of a helicopter. Heck, the opportunity to even go up in a chopper fills me with delight. Adding a target-rich environment of invasive species just adds to the challenge and the fun.

Hog Invasion

Much of Texas and the Deep South are overrun by wild hogs, and they damage millions of dollars of agricultural and native ecosystems every year. Prior to spring planting, farmers and state wildlife control make a push to reduce feral hog populations, which directly improves crop success.

Texas Parks & Wildlife estimate current feral hog populations in the Lone Star State at 1.5 million and growing exponentially every season. Young sows begin breeding around the age of six months, and their gestational period of 115 days yields up to three litters per year.

A big sounder (group of pigs) can root up acres of freshly planted crops in a single night. As a result, farmers and ranchers occasionally band together in an effort to radically reduce the population. Although it’s expensive, the most effective way – the only truly effective way – to reduce or even eliminate invasive hogs is by shooting them from a helicopter.

Hardware

Hunting feral hogs from a chopper introduces some surprising hardware considerations. For example, guns need a special shell deflector to prevent empty shell cases from flying up into the rotors and causing expensive damages – not to mention a rather abrupt landing.

Chopper rotor blades are incredibly sensitive. At one point, Lange noticed a rhythmic vibration in the chopper, which was caused by bird poop deposited on one of the blades overnight. Lange keeps specialized deflectors for AR-type rifles on hand, but sometimes shooters have to make their own – out of outlandish items such as the old motor oil bottle we fashioned onto fellow writer and Editor David Faubion’s AK.

Also, most guns will malfunction at least once during two days of hot and heavy shooting. It’s important to keep a compact cleaning kit, CLP and a small parts kit on hand.

There’s no doubt helicopter hog hunting emphasizes the value of high-capacity magazines. Lange has discovered that most AR magazines will feed up to 22 rounds or so of bulk steel-cased ammo reliably. Pack more in and you’ll have issues with some mags. He attributes it to the lesser lubricity and malleability of steel cases compared to brass.

Airborne Rifles

For decades, a good shotgun was the choice of aerial animal-control gunners. Scatterguns are still effective as ever, but they require pilots to get close – which is hard on the helicopter and tricky for the pilot. Plus, getting right down on animals with the rotor blades pounding them like a bass drum tends to scatter them in all directions, resulting in the need to climb, relocate, and pursue individual animals into thick brush. Additionally, hours of hammering heavy buckshot through a shotgun will pound even the toughest shooters into mush.

A better choice is the AR-15 rifle. Its reach allows pilots to hover a bit higher, which is easier on the machine. Animals also tend to stick together when the chopper stays higher, enabling shooters a chance to drop several hogs in quick succession. You burn through a lot of ammo – sometimes dumping a full magazine in one pass over a sounder of pigs.

The only concern I had initially was with the advisability of shooting big hogs with bulk FMJ .223 ammo. Which leads to the most surprising element of the experience: you may have to shoot a hog multiple times, but that FMJ ammo gets the job done. More often than not, hogs rolled with the first well-placed hit, and I’m pleased to say that we didn’t have a single wounded pig escape.

Ideally, heli-hog hunters should feed their rifles with something like Nosler’s 60-grain Partition or a Barnes TSX bullet – which would expand and impart much more energy – but such ammunition is far too expensive for crews shooting tens of thousands of rounds per year.

Another fantastic option would be to shoot an AR-15 chambered in .300 Blackout, which is potentially the perfect cartridge for the activity. But again, ammo cost is prohibitive. Lange did have one shooter use a .300 Blackout; he had a shell-catcher installed on his rifle and salvaged every piece of brass – often detrimental for making quick reloads.

Lange has also tried for years to make an AK-47 work. According to him, its 7.63x39mm cartridge hits pigs hard – but he hasn’t been able to get an AK to shoot with adequate precision or maintain integrity with an optic, which he considers vital for effective helicopter hog and coyote hunting.

Faubion used a Krebs Custom KV-13 on the hunt. It sported a forward optic rail, a decent trigger, and better-than-adequate accuracy. Mounted with a Trijicon RMR, it made for a fantastic close-range combat sight but was a bit coarse for use on running animals at 30 to 50 yards. Using a more precise optic like the Trijicon SRS (Sealed Reflex Sight) would have made Faubion’s setup much more helicopter-‘n-hog friendly.

Optimal Optics

A quality, non-magnified or low-magnification optic is vital to fast-paced shooting. It also needs to have very clear glass and have a fine aiming point.

Lange prefers Trijicon optics, and he’s particularly fond of the SRS. Its generous ocular lens and pinpoint red dots enables fast target acquisition and situational awareness. The SRS uses commonly available AA-batteries and is durable enough to withstand abuse and still maintain zero.

I opted to use a Trijicon VCOG in case I wanted a bit of magnification. It’s super durable, and offers true 1X (no magnification) at the low end of its 1-6x range. It worked great. After two days in the chopper, Lange was eyeing my VCOG with something I can only describe as lust.

Suppressors

Lange and other pilots prefer shooters use suppressors while shooting from the aircraft; both to minimize hearing loss and to avoid noise pollution for neighboring farmers. Even with hearing protection, the effect of hundreds of un-suppressed shots adds up quickly.

Reduced recoil is also an added benefit, making it easier to get back on target quickly. Just don’t touch that steaming hot can after a barrage of shots. Yes, I speak from experience.

Keys to Success

When shooting at wild game from a helicopter, every dimension is constantly changing. The chopper moves forward, sideways, up, down and usually a combination of directions. Animals run helter-skelter for parts unknown, and the shot distance, angle and required lead-time is always dramatically changing.

There’s simply no way to practice shooting from a moving platform, while leaning out of an aircraft and aiming at a target running in the opposite direction. You’ve got to learn on the fly (forgive the pun). Round counts tend to add up in a hurry.

Keys to success are staying loose, watching bullet impacts and adapting quickly. Be aware of the differing leads – when paralleling a running hog at roughly equal speeds, no lead is needed. If that animal is outstripping you, hold in front of it; if you’re overtaking, hold behind it. Holding behind a running animal seems counterintuitive, and it’s tough to do initially.

While not the most difficult type of shooting I’ve done – I reserve that distinction for very long shots on small targets in high wind with a precision rifle – shooting at zigzagging critters is undoubtedly the most intense shooting I’ve ever experienced.

Safety

It’s important to note that shooting from an aircraft is extremely safe. Sure, you’re hanging out of a door-less helicopter banging away at moving targets, but consider the fact that those bullets are going directly into the dirt – the potential for a ricochet is almost nonexistent. Plus, having a literal birds-eye view allows you to see any people or livestock in the area.

While most shooters don’t use a climbing-type harness, the seatbelts in choppers are secure. The craft we flew in had a five-point belt system in the front seats and a two-point system in the rear. Both were sufficient to make me feel safe while maneuvering in flight. However, if you’re skittish, bring a simple strap-type treestand harness and a carabiner for added peace of mind.

I also felt safe with Lange’s piloting experience; he’s your archetypical chopper-jockey. He often flies with his father, Aubrey, who served two tours as a medevac helicopter pilot in Vietnam. Together, they’ve net-gunned and relocated deer and exotic species for 20 years. Kyle also does aerial deer surveys and has extensive wildlife management experience. Plus, like many guys that spend their life driving a bubble in the sky through crazy maneuvers, he’s a humorist – never a dull moment.

Additional safety rules apply: While in the helicopter, “up” is no longer a safe direction for your muzzle. In fact, pilots are firm about keeping muzzles pointed down – at the ground and away from rotor blades. A negligent bullet headed through the rotor blades has drastic potential.

When flying, you’ll most likely have your gun in “hot” condition, meaning there’s a cartridge in the chamber. Attempting to remove the magazine and clear the chamber after every flurry of action is potentially more dangerous than simply putting the firearm on ‘safe’ and keeping the muzzle pointed safely out the door and down.

Doing It

Hunting from a helicopter can cost up to $800 per hour or more. If you’re like me, you don’t have that kind of unoccupied cash lying around. If you do have it, make reservations today and get up in the air. I was lucky enough to participate in my capacity as an outdoor journalist.

If you want to try something different than anything you’ve ever experienced, get up in the sky to do your part for invasive species control. It’s a trip you’ll never forget.

My favorite skincare ingredient is animal fat. Yeah, us homesteaders are an odd bunch…

As homesteaders, we brave the elements to pursue our passion and at times those conditions can be a bit unforgiving on our bodies.

We care for animals in the dead of winter and tend our gardens under the scorching summer sun. In time, these things can take a toll on the body, and they can leave us with dry skin and cracked, callused hardworking hands.

The good news is that these minor skin irritations caused by tough homesteading conditions and weather can be fixed with a little self-care and animal fat (that’s right I said animal fat). Rendered animal fat (especially tallow) has been used for generations in different household items including skincare products.

So let’s take a deep dive into the DIY world so you can learn how to use tallow to create your own body butter to help with that cracked dry skin that the homesteading life has left you with (which I firmly believe is a small price to pay while pursuing our homesteading passions).

What is Tallow?

Tallow is most commonly rendered beef fat, but it can also be made from other ruminant animals. Tallow can also be made from goat fat, sheep fat, and even deer fat.

Rendering animal fat is a natural process that causes the oils to melt away from the tissue when heated. Tallow is the liquid oil left behind; as it cools it becomes solid and appears as a hard oil block.

If you are interested in rendering your own fat rather than buying the finished product, you can learn How to Render Tallow right here.

Using Tallow Throughout History

Our ancestors traditionally let nothing go to waste, including animal fat that was rendered into tallow. Throughout history, tallow has been used for cooking and also for making many household products. As time went on, tallow and other animal fats were deemed bad for cooking, and so they disappeared from both our kitchen and our other household items.

Learn more about the history of animal fats in my Old-Fashioned on Purpose podcast episode here.

Tallow was used for:

• Cooking Oil
• Candles ( Learn How to Make Tallow Candles)
• Soap (my Tallow Soap Recipe is simple and a great DIY project)
• Skincare Products

Using tallow to create these natural DIY products is another step you can take toward self-sustainability and independence. Plus, it’s both fun to make your own household products and empowering to learn how to use all the parts of an animal so that there’s no waste.

Using Tallow for Skincare

Tallow is animal fat that has been used in cooking for generations, but perhaps it came as a surprise to you to learn that it can also be used as a skincare product.

Allow me to assure you here that you are not moisturizing with cooking oil and you won’t smell like beef fat if you use natural tallow skincare products. Tallow is a great moisturizer that naturally rebuilds your skin with many extra benefits.

Tallow Skincare Product Benefits:

• Does not clog your pores
• Is a natural moisturizer
• Rich in vitamins and omegas
• Has a similar molecular makeup to skin cells
• Is completely natural
• Has a long shelf life

If you are interested in learning more about using animal fat for skincare, you will love listening to this episode from The Old Fashioned on Purpose Podcast: How to Opt-Out of Toxic Mainstream Skincare.

By the way, if you are not interested in making your own tallow body butter, you can always buy some tallow balm from my friend Emily’s store (see podcast episode link above to listen to me and Emily talk about skincare). Check out Toups & Co. Organics Tallow Balms here.

One skincare product that can easily be made in your kitchen is tallow body butter. Tallow body butter a simple DIY project that takes a few ingredients and very little time.

How to Make Tallow Body Butter

Ingredients Needed to Make Tallow Body Butter:

• 16 oz of Tallow – Grass-Fed Sourced or Bought Tallow is fine or you can render your fat (learn how to render tallow here)
• 4 Tbsp. Extra Virgin Olive Oil (other liquid oils will also work; avocado oil is also a great choice) Note: It must be liquid oil that does not harden at cool temps.

Extras:

• Essential Oil (Optional) Adding essential oil isn’t necessary but it can help make your tallow body butter smell nice. Start with just a few drops of essential oils and add a few more drops at a time until you like the scent. Make sure you are using a good-quality essential oil company. I personally prefer using doTERRA essential oils.
• Arrowroot Powder (Optional) – Tallow body butter can sometimes feel slightly greasy, and adding arrowroot powder can help reduce the greasy texture and the skin absorb the butter. Add the arrowroot powder 1 tsp at a time until you like the texture.

Equipment Needed to Make Tallow Body Butter:

• Sauce Pan
• Medium Mixing Bowl
• Wooden Spoon
• Hand-Held Mixer (any mixer will work, but a hand-held one is best)
• Glass Jar(s)

Making Tallow Body Butter Instructions:

Step 1: If you are using stored or bought tallow, you will need to heat it in a saucepan until it is all in liquid form. Stir the tallow as you heat to help melt down large clumps. Once in liquid form, pour it into your mixing bowl.

If you are using freshly rendered tallow that is already in liquid form, pour it through a fine-mesh sieve (it helps remove any random bits) into your mixing bowl.

Step 2: Allow the liquid tallow to cool to room temperature, but not to the point it has started to harden again. Once cool, add your olive oil (or other liquid oil).

Step 3: Stir with a wooden spoon to combine the tallow and oil mixture. After a few stirs, place the mixture into the refrigerator until solid.

Step 4: Remove the solid tallow mixture from the fridge, and let it warm up a bit at room temperature; this will make it easier to whip.

Step 5: Using your hand-held mixer, whip the tallow and oil mixture until it appears fluffy. It will resemble whipped cake frosting.

NOTE: This is when you can add the (optional) arrowroot powder, which helps reduce the possible greasy feeling/texture of your tallow balm. If you’re adding it, add the arrowroot powder 1 tsp. at a time. After adding 1 tsp. of it, whip the mixture again until the powder is fully incorporated and then test the texture of the product on your skin. Add up to another 1 tsp. of powder if so desired, and make sure you whip the mixture again until everything is fully mixed.

NOTE: This is also when you can add the (optional) essential oils. Start with just a few drops of your favorite essential oils, then whip it until fully incorporated, and then test the scent of your tallow body butter to see if it needs more.

Step 6: Scoop the tallow body butter into glass jars for storage. You can store your body butter for up to 5-6 months in a dark, cool place. Be sure to label your jars.

When you are ready to try your tallow body butter out, keep in mind that a little goes a long way.

Nourish Your Skin with Tallow Body Butter

Taking care of yourself is just as important as taking care of your animals and garden. Homesteading is hard work and it can be hard on one’s body. Remember a little self-care can go a long way and you can use all-natural homemade products to help.

Do you have any other self-care tips or DIY natural products recommendations for the hardworking homesteader?

Also, don’t forget to check out Emily Toup’s skincare products! Toups & Co. Organics: http://toupsandco.com/ Make sure you check out her Tallow Balms section! I love her products SO much.

More DIY Skincare Ideas:

• Honey Lip Balm Recipe
• Homemade Hand Cream Recipe
• Whipped Body Butter Recipe

Glue making has a long and rich history, possibly dating back to the Neolithic period and beyond. Not only was it used in weaponry, fastening arrowheads to arrows and the like, but there is also evidence that it was used to repair broken pottery. In this blog post, we will look at two types of primitive glues, hide glue and resin glue. As always, please feel free to read the whole blog or just click on the section that interests you the most. Remember, the only way to truly learn these techniques is to practice them in a real-world situation. Join our intermediate bushcraft course to learn more about these techniques.

• Making hide Glue
• Pine resin Glue
• Kit
• Further reading

Making hide glue

This section will give you a brief overview of the what, why and how behind hide glue. At its essence hide glue is made from extracting collagen from the hide, bones, sinew, etc. of an animal. It has been used throughout the years in everything from hunting bows to furniture and has even been found in Egyptian caskets.

Softening up the rawhide

The hide needs to be softened first. The method of doing this depends on where you are sourcing the hide from. The best method of doing this is to cut the hide, if you’re taking the glue from the hide, into small pieces, put it into a pot and cover it with water. The water should be allowed to reach a gentle simmer, not a rolling boil, and allow it to remain simmering until the hide becomes semi-transparent. This can take up to several hours so be patient.

Remove the pieces of hide

Use a strainer or the like to remove the pieces of hide from the substance. Leaving the liquid in the pan, strain out the big bits of the hide using a sieve or the like, then strain the liquid through a finer mesh, such as a cheesecloth, in order to remove the finer particle.

Cool the liquid

Allow the liquid to cool naturally. You will be left with a congealed, rubbery substance. This can then be broken up into small pieces and put aside to dry. These crumbled up bits can then be stored away somewhere waterproof and relatively airtight.

Using your glue

When you need to use your glue, take out as many of the small crumbled up bits as you think that you need and warm them slowly using as little water as possible. The more water that you add the thinner, and therefore weaker, the glue will be.

Making pine resin glue

Pine resin glue is, arguably, somewhat easier to make. It relies on using the pitch, or resin, that is excluded by some trees in order to help heal cuts in their bark.

Gathering the pine resin

As mentioned above, pine trees secrete resin in order to close cuts in their bark, and in doing so, reduce the risk of the tree becoming infected. Remember, treat the trees with respect and do not do anything which could damage them. The pine resin that is needed for glue can either be collected from dried, previously secreted, resin or from fresh running resin. If you’re collecting the hard resin, simply lever it off the tree using your knife. If collecting fresh, running resin, take it from trees that have been naturally grazed.

Prepare the pine resin

The pine resin should be prepared before use. In order to do this, heat the pine resin on a stone next to your fire and mix in some fine ash powder from the fire.

Using your pine resin

When it comes to using your pine resin glue it should be remembered that it dries very quickly. This means that the item that you’re intending to glue should be ready to receive the pine resin before you come to use the glue. In order to use the glue, simply heat up the ash and pine resin mix and then apply it to what you are hoping to glue and then let it cool.

Kit

There are a few key pieces of kit that you will need for making primitive glues. These are outlined below, remember though, you need to choose the kit that suits your purposes and abilities.

• Fallkniven DC4 This diamond/ceramic whetstone is perfect for use in the field. https://www.fallkniven.com/en/knife/dc4/
• Knives Wildway Bushcraft uses Bear Blades. “Constructed from superb quality D2 steel this knife is ideal for bushcraft and wood crafting. Our most popular knife due to its versatility and functionality, suited to tough daily use in the woods.” http://bearblades.co.uk/

“Survival Bows And Who Should Consider Owning One” was the topic of my previous article and we talked about exactly what a survival bow was good for and where they excelled in the world of archery. We even mentioned that such bows may slowly start to be renamed the “compact modern longbow” and as such form a new segment of the archery market more widely accepted than a weapon thought to be useful purely as a survival tool.

Today however we deal with one of the most widely misconstrued perceptions of what makes a good survival bow. In order to do this we need to take a look at the industry benchmark for what is believed to be a good bow and that is of course no other than the compound bow.

We also need to look at a few other options to compare to and this is where more traditional bows such as the recurve bow, the longbow and the compact modern longbow come into play.

I have many a time come across forums filled with pages and pages of people discussing (and sometimes even arguing) about what the best bow for a survival or SHTF situation would be. There is a somewhat clear divide in opinion on what the answer to this question is and it generally comes from two very distinct camps of people.

The first camp is a camp of people who seem to be more open minded. People who like to question things and make their own opinions based on extensive research and personal experience, as well as the actual experience of others. They ask questions, debate with fair reasoning and seem to have experienced the use of many types of bows and equipment suited to the outdoors. They seem to be more experienced in the outdoors in general and have a wealth of knowledge of what it means to be an outdoorsman. It is this camp that seem to be more open minded toward considering a more traditional bow such as a recurve bow or compact modern longbow for a survival or SHTF situation.

The second camp of people seem to be more set in their thinking. They seem to be more biased in their approach to the debate and almost exclusively seem to have little real world outdoors experience other than their annual 200 yard walk to their tree-stand for the yearly whitetail hunt. Added to this they deem any bow other than a compound bow to be substandard, almost without exclusion and with further prodding it normally comes out that that is all they have ever shot.

It is no wonder that newcomers to the world of “survival archery” can be so confused when it comes to choosing a bow for a survival or SHTF situation and its time to put some thoughts on the table and take a look at the pros and cons of what makes a good survival bow and then discuss which type of bow may be better between a more traditional bow and a compound bow. For the purposes of this article we are going to look specifically at takedown bows (recurves, longbows and compact modern longbows) vs compound bows:

Let’s first take a look at what attributes make for an ideal survival bow. Survival bows need to be:

• Powerful enough to hunt game the size of deer and antelope.
• Accurate enough to take small game such as rabbit, squirrel and medium to large birds.
• Durable enough to last a lifetime
• Easy to maintain
• Easy to transport and free up your hands for other tasks or to carry other equipment such as rifles for self defense.
• Light enough to allow for carry of other necessary equipment
• Simple enough to require no or minimal tools
• Adaptable enough to allow for multiple users or unit members both left and right handed

Those who are trained and experienced in the outdoors in a wide variety of skillsets including survival, hunting, tactical, backpacking, etc will quickly appreciate ALL of the points above. You see a survival or SHTF situation would incorporate most if not all of these skillsets and not just a hunting skillset. That is why I am kicking off this “debate” with a list of “What would make for an ideal survival bow?”

Now let’s move on to compare takedown bows and compound bows against this list of points.

The Compound Bow definitely has plenty of power and is as accurate as bows come, but when it comes to durability one has to question them by considering the amount of moving parts involved as well as just how “fragile” these parts are when it comes to the bow taking knocks and bumps when spending extended time off the beaten path. Personally if I had to make it through a SHTF situation I would not feel terribly comfortable putting it through even the smallest amount of hardship I may encounter on my journey, especially if I wanted it to last a lifetime.

Ease of maintenance is also a big issue when it comes to a SHTF scenario. One usually requires special tools and jigs to restring and maintain a bow and you certainly won’t be able to carry those around with you. Sure you may have these at home, but if you had to move you would have a problem.

Ease of transport is another big disadvantage to compound bows. Unless you are strapping them to your backpack (which increases the risk of damaging them) you will either need to leave it at a basecamp or carry it in your hand and that not only reduces the tasks you can accomplish and where you can travel, but it will certainly become a nuisance at some stage. Imagine trying to move through thick underbrush or climb up banks or swim across a river. Certainly not ticking the box of easy to transport.

From a tools perspective you will be fine so long as you don’t need to change or maintain anything, but scene as this is a bow that is needed to last a lifetime, you will at some stage need those tools and as mentioned above you will at some stage have issues.

And finally, the last point of allowing for multiple users. A compound bow is great in that it allows for various poundages to be dialled in on the same bow. Which is great right? The drawback is that it allows for either a left or a right handed archer, not both and therefore cannot be used in an ambidextrous way. Luckily most archers are right handed so this point is less important than others above.

The Takedown Bow segment has three main categories in the form of the takedown recurve, the takedown longbow and the compact modern longbow such as the SAS Tactical Survival Bow and the SAS Recon Folding Survival Bow (soon to launch at the writing of this article) from Survival Archery Systems.

Each of these 3 types of takedown bows has its own unique attributes which we shall summarize briefly against each of the points on our list.

Bow power is something that is misunderstood when it comes to actual takedown ability. Native North Americans were harvesting bison, elk, moose and deer with bows in the 30#-40# range and it all comes down to arrow placement and blood-loss. If you hit your quarry with any bow 45# and up in the vitals it is pretty much game over. There is enough penetration power to cause enough blood-loss that the quarry will go down. What is important thereafter is your ability to track the quarry after having given it enough time to bleed-out. So takedown bows are a good choice for a survival or SHTF situation for sure.

The accuracy of takedown bows whilst not as good as that of a compound, is generally good enough for small game if you have put in the practice. Don’t think you can just stuff a takedown bow in your bag, whip it out and shoot a squirrel at 30 yards when you get hungry; you will learn a hard lesson. Takedown bows, unless fitted with a well sighted sighting system take practice to learn to shoot with an instinctive style. Other than that they are accurate enough to do the job and thus tick the box.

Durability of takedown bows with respect to real world abuse is orders better than that of a compound bow as you typically only have 3 major parts securely bolted together. The riser and two limbs. Wooden limbs and wooden risers typical of many takedown recurves and longbows are not as durable as composite limbs such as those used on compact modern longbows such as the SAS Survival Bow range, so choose carefully. Composite materials are not only stronger than wood, but can weather out the elements such as rain, sunshine, heat and cold and generally last much, much longer. Wooden products require much care whilst composite materials can take substantially more abuse.

Aluminum is also a great riser material as it has very stable mechanical properties that engineers can use to accurately develop bows to ensure they are working well below material fatigue limits, thereby ensuring your bow will last a lifetime. This is important to remember; if a manufacturer does not claim to have designed a bow using engineering principles then beware, because it normally means designs are more based on touchy-feely shape decisions rather than on structural integrity through material selection and detailed analysis.

Ease of maintenance is up next and again, takedown bows require very little maintenance and just a tool or two at most. Wood certainly requires maintenance to keep it in good condition, but composite limbs and aluminum risers require little to no maintenance at all. You also don’t need special tools for compact modern longbows such as the SAS bows, but for recurves and longbows you will generally need a stringer and an allen key or two.

When it comes to multiple users takedown bows generally cannot account for different poundage needs from users. You are pretty much stuck with one poundage unless you are carrying spare limbs around with you. Recurves and longbows with cutouts restrict left and right hand usage with the same bow, but compact modern longbows with non-cutout shapes such as that on SAS Survival Bows allow for both left and right hand usage by simply swapping the bow between hands.

Lastly, let’s talk about transport ability and weight. This is where the big gamechanger comes in when it comes to choosing a bow for survival. Takedown bows are all comparatively light enough for easy transport when you have other gear you need to ruck around. From a packability point of view they are even better, because they can fit into large backpacks which not only helps protect them, but get them out of your hand. Compact modern longbows are the most compact of the lot and can even fit into one-day packs if they are shorter than the magic number of 21″.

Straight limb bows such as longbows and compact modern longbows pack down much better than recurve bows do and take up much less space. Recurve and longbow limbs are usually quite a bit longer than compact modern longbow limbs so are only compatible with very large backpacks, but all takedown bows are much more suited than a compound bow to a SHTF scenario.

This is super, super important to understand when making a decision on buying a bow for survival. Skilled and experienced outdoorsmen with all the skills we spoke about earlier will tell you that having a bow that can easily fit in a backpack is pretty much the crux of your decision. Why, you ask? Well its like what my dad used to tell me when I was a kid trying to do stuff in the workshop and I had a whole bunch of tools I was trying to use, “Put that down and use both hands boy.” He was right and it comes down to freeing your hands up. It makes almost everything you do so much easier.

Like carrying a rifle if you are in a tactical survival situation for instance. Or how about dragging your bike rack deer back to camp? Climbing, swimming, hand-to-hand combat, running with a pack; the list goes on.

Having the ability to get your bow out the way is in my opinion THE most important attribute of a bow for survival and this is exactly why Survival Archery Systems developed its patented SAS Tactical and Recon Folding Survival Bows. They not only pack down very, very compact, but they are the only bow on the market that has a solution for the transport and protection of your takedown arrows. Our customer’s feedback speaks for itself and the number of repeat sales purchased for friends and family seals our opinion on why we believe that the SAS Survival Bows should be your bow of choice if you are looking for a compact, silent bow for survival that will not only last a lifetime but will do the job you need it to do, each and every time.

Well I hope that helps you in your decision in which bow to choose.

To get more info and get yourself one of the very popular SAS Survival Bows for your bugout or survival bag click this link now – https://www.survivalarcherysystems.com/products/survival_bow.

Whether you’re narrowing the gap between food and your table, connecting more deeply to nature through conservation, or extending your hunting seasons with archery gear, you’ll never run short of great reasons to try bowhunting.

Gearing up to bowhunt is exciting, and it’s much simpler than most people realize. To help you better understand what you need for your first bowhunt, let’s review 10 basic bowhunting tools.

1. Compound Bow

Obviously, a bow of some sort is your most basic need. You have three bow types to choose from, starting with the compound bow. These bows are nearly standard issue for bowhunting today. They’re easier to shoot than traditional recurves or longbows, but require more practice than crossbows to become proficient. Modern compound bows are efficient and don’t require extraordinary strength to draw and shoot.

When selecting a bow, it’s best to seek help from an expert at an archery shop. Hunting bows are not “one size fits all.” Make sure you choose a bow that matches your fit and bowhunting needs. You must become as accurate as possible to enjoy shooting and be lethal in the woods.

2. Traditional Bow

Traditional recurves or longbows are bowhunting’s simplest weapons. These bows have been used thousands of years, and are more effective today than when our ancestors carried them for hunting and self-protection. Shooting and harvesting game animals with these basic bows is also challenging and rewarding.

Drawing a traditional bow that’s powerful enough to take game animals like deer, elk or bears requires more strength than drawing a compound bow. However, their simplicity makes them the most affordable option for prospective bowhunters with tight budgets.

3. Crossbow

Until recently crossbow hunting was mostly reserved for senior citizens, or people with injuries or disabilities. Today, most states and Canadian providences allow crossbows during part or all of the regular archery season. Crossbows reduce the learning curve needed to shoot arrows proficiently. Most crossbow archers prefer aiming with a scope like those used on hunting rifles. This makes crossbows fairly easy to shoot accurately, even for those with little or no experience. Crossbow prices vary, but they’re similar to prices for compound bows.

4. Arrows

Once you’ve selected a hunting bow, it’s time to pick your arrows. Arrows must be matched to your bow’s draw weight and draw length. To ensure you make the right choice, consult experts at the nearest archery store.

5. Broadheads

For most target practice, archers shoot arrows tipped with practice points. When it’s time to prepare for bowhunting season, swap your field points for broadheads. Broadheads wield razor-sharp blades that cut through a game animal’s hide, flesh and organs to cause quick, ethical harvesting. Broadheads come in nearly infinite options, but some might be better suited than others for the quarry you hunt and the bow you shoot. Again, ask an expert for advice to ensure your broadhead matches your setup.

6. Bow Accessories

This is a broad category. The accessories you need depend on your bow and your budget. Those shooting a compound, crossbow or traditional bow must have a hooded quiver to carry their broadhead-tipped arrows. Most hunting quivers attach to the bow or crossbow, but some bowhunters prefer quivers they carry over a shoulder or attach to a pack.

Next, arrow-rests hold the arrow in place while drawing and shooting. The options are many, and the styles vary by bow and personal preference. Release-aids attach the bowhunter to the bowstring, and feature a trigger that releases the arrow.

Release-aids are standard gear for shooting a compound bow. Those shooting traditional bows use a shooting glove or finger tab, which protects the shooter’s fingers when drawing the bowstring and releasing the shot.

A bow-sight is a reference point for aiming, and typically has one to six pins the shooter adjusts individually to precise distances. You’ll find plenty of options for bow-sights, and the archery store’s pros can help you find your best option. Even so, a sight is not absolutely necessary for some bowhunters, especially those shooting traditional gear. However, they’re a great training aid when learning archery, and deliver consistent accuracy.

Bowhunters who use crossbows require fewer accessories than those using vertical bows. Crossbows are commonly sold in kits with everything needed to start shooting, but many options exist if you dislike what’s included.

Scopes, for example, come in various magnifications, and at highly varying price points. Be sure to consult an archery pro to determine which scope meets your hunting needs.

Crossbow hunters also require a cocking device, which helps them draw the bow and lock its string into the fire-ready position. A simple string-cocker uses a rope and pulleys for this task, but some crossbows feature a hand crank that makes the job nearly effortless.

7. Clothing

Bowhunting and camouflage go hand in hand. Camo helps bowhunters remain unseen so unsuspecting game approaches within range. Matching camo to your hunting area can feel overwhelming, but experts at an archery or sporting-goods store can help.

No matter what you choose, be sure to dress in layers. Bowhunting can require bouts of vigorous, sweat-pumping activity followed by long stretches of wet, chilly waiting in harsh elements. Layering helps you stay comfortable by adding or removing layers to match the situation.

8. Backpack

You’ll need a hunting pack to carry your gear, water, snacks, licenses and hunting gear. If you plan to hunt where you’ll often hike long distances, consider a pack that can carry your bow. And if you hunt areas accessible only by foot, choose a pack that’s substantial enough to help pack out your animal.

9. Boots

Veteran bowhunters put good boots at or near the top of their gear list. Whether you’re sitting, still-hunting or spot-and-stalk hunting, boots are vital to consistent success. If you regularly hike a mile or more to reach hunting sites, your boots must offer comfort and support. Stand-hunters, meanwhile, usually place priority on boots that keep their feet warm all day.

10. Ground Blind/Treestand

Stand-hunters hide out and wait in treestands or ground blinds for animals to come into bow range. Ground blinds are essentially small, portable camouflage tents that set up where you hunt. Treestands conceal bowhunters by elevating them above the animal’s normal view. Both are excellent options. If you bowhunt from a treestand – the most common method for bowhunting deer – never leave the ground without wearing a full-body safety harness to prevent a fall.

No matter your hunting style, also carry binoculars and a rangefinder. Binoculars help you search the landscape for game and identify it. And rangefinders quickly pinpoint the distance to your quarry.

Did you get all that? No matter which bow you choose or the style of bowhunting you try, expect an adrenaline rush like you’ve never experienced when that deer, bear, elk or turkey walks into range. And to ensure you’re ready for that big moment, start scouting now to find a nearby bowhunting shop to help guide you along.

By: Tyler Ridenour of Bowhunting360.com

Walleye, walleye, walleye!

The best walleye fishing in the world…

That is how I describe where I live to people I cross paths with when I’m traveling. Growing up in the Kenora area, around Lake of the Woods, I’ve been spoiled with fantastic walleye fishing my whole life. Since I was a little kid, walleye have been my favourite species to catch through the ice because the action is always reliable, they are the best fish we have to eat and we catch plenty of big ones.

Nearly all of the resorts that stay open through the winter across the Sunset Country Region will be able to put you on some top-notch walleye fishing. Here are a few of my top tips.

Where to catch walleyes through the ice

Across Northwest Ontario, we have a variety of different types of lakes that hold excellent populations of walleyes. Some are shallow and tannic-colored waters, and others are clear, deep-water lakes, with a variety of waters in between. Excellent walleye fishing exists across the region so how do you choose the best place for your ice-fishing adventure?

If you have visited us here in the open water season, does your favourite resort offer ice fishing? They could be a good place to start. The next consideration might be your transportation options. Snowmobiles or ATVs offer access to remote locations so you can find your own hot spots.

Drive-to-vehicle access is available on some waters, where ice roads allow you to drive right to your fishing spot. The availability of ice roads could be a discussion with whoever you book your trip with. Some resorts will rent snowmobiles, which might be a good way to go if you don’t own one. They are fun to drive and can really open up the doors for fishing opportunities.

The season is open from freeze-up until April 15. Some years we’re able to stay on the ice right up to the 15th, other years the ice is done by the end of March. Like with some of the other species, my favourite times to be on the ice are early and late in the season. Early on, it’s easy to get around without a lot of snow on the ice, and getting the first crack at some of the humps and points that are good year after year results in some great fishing.

Walleye spawn shortly after ice-out around creek mouths or in shallow bays and predictably, they show up in front of these areas in March every year for the last few weeks of the ice season. I like to focus my efforts on structures like humps and points in front of these areas and if they don’t exist, walleyes can be caught on flats just out from the first good drop into deeper water. In some of the shallow walleye lakes, particularly some of the remote lakes, we’ll catch walleyes extremely shallow late in the season, sometimes as shallow as three to five feet. When you set the hook, they’ll just come flying up the hole.

Earlier in the season, focus on main-lake humps, points, and flats. A lot of the same spots that are good in the summer are also good in the winter, you might just have to drop out and fish a little bit deeper. Because our walleye fishing is so good across the region, I have a five-minute rule for the holes that I fish. Of course, there are days when you can set up shop in a shelter and wait for the fish to come to you. That can be relaxing, you can share some good fellowship with your buddies and hey, we get real winter so some days you have to hide out inside because it’s so cold.

When I go for fun, I pick the nicer weather days and hole hop outside. If I jig in a hole for five minutes and don’t at least mark a fish, I’m moving to the next hole. Sometimes small adjustments in depth can make a big difference. Sometimes you’ll get a hole where you’re right over the top of a ledge or sharp drop and those are never as good. It’s good to be close to the edge, but a flat bottom is always the best for walleyes, where they can creep along and find your bait. The flats also allow the fish to congregate together as well.

How to catch walleyes through the ice

For the past twenty years, I’ve seldom used anything but a spoon for fishing walleyes through the ice. My go-to has always been a Northland Buck-Shot Spoon, popular with walleye anglers across the ice belt. I’ll always tip my spoon with a frozen minnow head and it never lets me down.

The traditional jig tipped with a minnow still works fine, I just think it’s more fun watching a spoon on my sonar unit and figuring out how to trick walleyes into biting it when they come in for a look. Some days, aggressive jigging gets bites, other days, you need to shake your spoon in a subtle manner. Figuring out how to trigger them to bite is the fun part. On some of the shallower, inland lakes, a jig tipped with a live minnow, hooked through the tail can be the best presentation. Something to consider if you fish in one of those types of lakes.

On the bigger waters, however, jigging with spoons or swimming jigs is tough to beat. Most of the time walleyes are going to be found near the bottom so electronics are not mandatory to catch fish but they will always help you put a few more on the ice. It’s good to know when walleyes are moving around beneath your hole and every once in a while, you’re going to see fish pass by that are slightly above the bottom so you can bring your bait up a bit so they can see it. More often than not, these suspended walleyes are aggressive and bite immediately.

If you are coming to visit us for a fishing trip you should also know that the “prime-time” bite is exceptional on most waters. We call that last hour of daylight “prime-time” because the walleyes almost always bite a lot better than they do the rest of the day. In fact, on some of the clear water walleye fisheries, it’s tough to catch fish during the day, then they go nuts just before dark. If you are coming for a trip, don’t be afraid to stay out there late and catch that “prime-time” bite.

Some waters in Sunset Country have special regulations for walleye fishing, including size restrictions, no-fishing areas, and bait restrictions so it’s always good to consult the Ontario Sport Fishing Regulations before you hit the ice. If you stay with a resort, they will be able to direct you on specific regulations on their waters.

We look forward to seeing you on the ice in Sunset Country this winter.

I’ve always been a fan of the Big & J deer attractant and mineral blocks. What if I could make my own deer attractant that works just as well for less money? Of course, I use corn feeders where it’s allowed (check your local hunting regulations regarding baiting), but I also build water troughs and mock scrapes to create an environment that encourages deer activity in my hunting areas.

I also like to provide additional nutritional supplementation to the deer in my hunting areas and that’s where the Big & J deer supplements became part of my plan.

Big & J can become pretty expensive, especially if you have a lot of different hunting areas. This year, I found a recipe for the ultimate deer attractant and supplement that I could make at home for a fraction of the cost of Big & J.

Ultimate Deer Attractant

Ingredients List

• 2 bags of sugar
• 2 bags of brown sugar (dark will last longer than light)
• 2 boxes of baking soda
• 4 packages of cherry jello
• 2 big containers of grape Kool-Aid
• 1 big container of oats
• 2 cans of salt

The Short on YouTube had to be under a minute, so it’s a quick run through of my ultimate deer attractant. Let me offer a few more details about the mix and how I use it.

Mixing and Using the Ingredients

Most of the ingredients are just sweet and attract the deer with the sweetness of the item. The baking soda is the primary ingredient in most store-bought pre-mixed deer attractants and provides valuable minerals to the deer. Same with the salt.

I mix the ingredients in a 5 gallon bucket with a lid. This ingredient list almost filled the whole bucket. Pour all the ingredients in the bucket, secure the lid, and shake, rattle, and roll the bucket to mix the ingredients.

Most of these sugar-heavy ingredients will dissolve in a very short time if you don’t mix it some corn. So, I used a second 5 gallon bucket to mix equal parts of the deer attractant and deer corn. I found this causes the deer attractant to last a few days. You could also add molasses as a binder for a longer lasting deer attractant (it’s what most store bought “blocks” use as a binder).

Does It Work?

I found the deer really enjoyed the attractant and wasted no time finding it and eating it. After 8 years of hunting in West Virginia, I finally bagged my first buck! I like to think the attractant helped, although I also made two critical changes to my hunting area that also contributed to my success (stand location and how I approached the stand).

I didn’t use the attractant in Texas or Pennsylvania. We hunted public land in Pennsylvania where “baiting” is not allowed, so it was not an option. For Texas, we have established feeders that habituate the deer to the feeder locations, so I didn’t really feel the need for additional attractants or supplementation. However, the acorns dropped right before we arrived for hunting season. It’s possible that some additional nutrients (and sugar) could have drawn deer away from the preferred acorn food sources, resulting in more deer activity than we saw, this year.

You should always be sure that baiting is legal in your hunting area before using something like this attractant.

The following appears in the May issue of Alaska Sporting Journal:

BY BRIAN WATKINS

The Grand Slam Ovis Club started recording what is known as the North American Slam back in the 1970s. To record the slam, one must harvest all 29 recognized North American big game species.

The 29 animals can be divided into 10 categories, known as the “Super 10.” The categories include moose, caribou, deer, bear, bison/musk ox, elk, sheep, mountain goat, pronghorn and mountain lion. This is often considered the “mini- slam,” as a hunter must actively hunt all categories of animals in North America.

It just so happens that Alaska is home to species representing eight of the 10 categories – black, brown, grizzly and polar bear; musk ox and bison; Yukon-Alaskan moose; Roosevelt and Rocky Mountain elk; Sitka blacktail deer; mountain goat; Dall sheep; and barren- ground and woodland caribou.

Alaska affords the opportunity to tag out on eight game categories, most of which can be taken with an over-the- counter tag, with a few variables involved. The bison is a draw-only hunt, and there is limited opportunity for registration tags for musk ox and elk. There are draw tags available for all species. The woodland caribou is currently unable to be hunted due to declining numbers.

CONVENIENT AND AFFORDABLE

With the opportunities Alaska has to offer, being a resident helps hunters get extremely close to the Super 10 without breaking the bank. My personal chase for the Super 10 didn’t come to fruition until 2014 when I harvested my first moose. Up to that point, I had harvested whitetail deer (Pennsylvania), Sitka blacktail, caribou, mountain goat, black bear and brown bear. I was suddenly halfway to the Super 10 without realizing it.

I set the goal to harvest the Super 10 by age 35. At the time I was 26. This would allow me to take a new species every other year.

My past stories in these pages have gone over all my hunting within Alaska, from road-based hunts to fly-outs and boat trips. Flying out is my favorite, but for cost-base hunters road hunts can be just as successful. I have harvested deer, sheep, goats, moose and caribou while boot hunting after driving to an area.

GOING SOUTH FOR SPEED GOATS

This past fall, with two animals to go, I headed south to the Lower 48 to complete the Super 10. My good friend Trevor Embry and I drew Montana pronghorn tags. I figured it would be an easy hunt. Boy, was I wrong. We were hunting public-land bucks, and they are skittish. Their eyesight is better than any other animal I’ve pursued. One of the guys hunting down there said their eyesight is like always having eight- power binoculars.

Our plan was to drive with onX maps and pick out public land, then glass and spot and stalk any animals on that land. But soon we figured out that if we saw a group of antelope, we had to maintain speed and pass them. Then, when out of sight, we could park and hike back to see if there were any bucks in the group. If you so much as let off the gas, the entire group would take off out of sight.

I snuck into 60 yards of herds multiple times, but as soon as I kneeled up for a shot, the group was off and running before I could even get my pins in sight.

Frustrations grew throughout the week as stalk after stalk was blown. Patience was the name of the game. After nearly 15 futile stalks, it came together with a buck chasing a doe right in front of me. I didn’t even need to stalk. We saw the group and were

getting into position as a buck ran directly past us and stopped broadside at 35 yards.

THE LION SLEEPS TONIGHT

With number 9 successful, it was time to plan number 10: mountain lion! I knew the most efficient way to hunt mountain lions was with dogs. I booked a trip to Nevada for this past spring and went with Canyons West Guide Service (canyonswest.com).

The hunting style was a blast. The guide had four-wheelers with tracks on them, and we would drive mountain roads looking to cut a set of lion tracks. It was blowing 40 to 50 mph gusts while we were there, so cutting tracks proved to be a bit of a challenge. On day one, we cut a set from the evening prior, but they were pretty blown out. We let the dogs loose and climbed up a mountain in pursuit. It seemed as though the dogs treed the cat, but by the time we got there the cat must have busted out and climbed up into the cliffs, where neither the dogs or us could get to.

The next day, we set out for a new area. We cut a fresh set of tracks and drove the machines into the valley where they went. As we sat there deciding if the tracks were from a cat big enough to chase, we saw four deer on the hillside.

We figured the cat was actively stalking the deer. As we sat and discussed things, I saw the cat creeping along about 600 yards away! It was awesome. We let the dogs out after the cat and they treed it back across from where we’d just driven through.

We skinned and quartered that lion. That afternoon we went further into the mountains. My dad was along with me and had a tag as well. We didn’t cut anything fresh, so we planned to head back for the day. As we did, we cut a set of tracks we had missed along the way out. We set the dogs out and after a half hour they had the cat treed about 20 yards away from where we had just ridden past. These cats are elusive. That hunt completed my Super 10!

NEXT UP: SUPER 10 BY BOW

In 2017, I joined the Alaskan Bowhunters Association and befriended a group of people who are predominately bowhunters. I added a new goal to harvest the Super 10 with a bow. Currently, I am sitting at nine of the 10 – with only an elk left on my to-do list. I have since joined the board for ABA and hunt predominately with a bow myself.

I’ll get that elk eventually. ASJ

Have you ever been knee-deep in flooded timber, crouched alongside a tree as you watch a flock of mallards work your decoys like they read the script perfectly? You give them a few last feed chuckles as they cup their wings, and you make your shot. You swing perfectly with the appropriate lead, only to watch them all turn and fly out of your life forever, leaving you with nothing to show for it aside from possibly a wounded bird. Has this happened to you? If you’re an avid waterfowler, odds are it has.

The situation I described is all too familiar for most waterfowlers, especially since the federal banning of lead shot for waterfowl in the early ’90s. While this ban played an important role in conservation—fewer birds and other animals are now exposed to toxic lead fragments—the fact remains that most modern waterfowl loads can’t quite match the fatality of lead.

However, in recent years, variations of waterfowl loads have hit the market and gained the attention of outdoorsmen. Variations include split loads, where you could see a mix between a smaller and larger shot to give you that extra knockdown power while still providing enough pellets. Bismuth loads provide a greater density, ensuring cleaner kills. And finally, there’s the revolution of tungsten, which is nearly 70% denser than lead, providing a level of kinetic energy the likes of which hunters had never seen.

But with rising ammo prices and a lack of information surrounding the different shot loads, hunters can have a hard time figuring out which product gives them the best value. I’ll break down the pros and cons of each shot and let you make the final decision on what to put in your shotgun this season!

Steel Shot

What started off as a crunch-time decision to create an effective shot load after the federal ban of lead waterfowl loads led into it becoming the most common waterfowl and upland ammunition today. However, the progression into this wasn’t so glamorous. Steel is an extremely hard metal with a very low density (roughly 7.8 grams per cubic centimeter). This means the shot is very rough on chokes. It also has extremely lower energy rates, especially at long distances.

Over the years, the development of steel shot loads has progressed—through methods of wad advancements, powder improvements, and even shot size stacking. Many hunters have grown to appreciate steel for its low cost as well as its effectiveness in close quarters. Though the complaints regarding wounded birds have decreased with these developments, waterfowlers still feel there is too much risk associated with steel, and they often go with something a little denser and more powerful.

Bismuth Shot

Bismuth shot was the first steel alternative after the federal ban of lead shot in the United States. With a far more impressive density compared to steel (roughly 9.6 compared to 7.8), bismuth proved to be a much more fatal alternative while also being much less harsh on shotguns, especially older ones.

The introduction of bismuth also had its downsides though. Unfortunately, it’s an extremely brittle metal that was inconsistent and had a lack of durability during contact with larger birds. Combining this with its price point higher than steel, it was hard for consumers to make that switch.

The good news is that technology has caught up and improved upon those inferior earlier designs. After nearly a decade with a small market presence, bismuth has made an impressive comeback in recent years with its developments of durable metal blends, bridging that gap for waterfowlers who want better kinetic energy without paying tungsten price.

Tungsten

Tungsten has become a staple as the most effective and lethal shot option for waterfowlers, turkey hunters and upland enthusiasts alike. Tungsten super shot (TSS) has 60% greater density than the once-beloved lead shot and nearly twice the density as steel, making it a bird crusher!

Due to its high density and velocity, hunters can get the same knockdown power with smaller shot sizes, allowing for a much larger kill zone. To put this into perspective, the amount of penetration you would get from using No. 4 tungsten at 40 yards is still nearly 10% greater than the penetration you would get from using steel shot at 20 yards. This equates to fewer wounded birds and quicker limits.

The drawback to shooting tungsten is an extremely high price point. Apex Ammunition is one of the leaders in the market for tungsten waterfowl loads. For a price comparison, its TSS ammo is currently priced at nearly $5 per round, compared to its steel blend, which is roughly 92 cents per round. While this price gap can be somewhat astounding, the argument remains that while you may pay more for TSS per round, you’ll be shooting fewer shots and bagging more birds.

Best Bang For Your Buck

Whether you decide to use steel shot, bismuth, or TSS will ultimately come down to your experiences with each, your budget, and the value you see in the options. It’s no secret that while the lead ban took away a very deadly and affordable option, it is an incredible conservation move for protecting our wildlife, and there are options on the market that perform at the same level and even higher, even if at a higher price point. In my experience, using TSS has proven to be well worth the money given its knockdown power and the ability to use smaller shot sizes, giving me a lower margin of error and, thus, more harvested birds. Having said that, I am friends with many avid bird hunters who swear by the effectiveness of modern steel and bismuth loads, and their success is hard to argue with. I would encourage everybody to at least experience all three and make your decision based on how well they perform for you! Good luck this season!

READ MORE: TICK EASE FOUNDER “TICK MAN DAN” TELLS ALL ON THE DANGERS OF THESE PESTS

Glocks…one of the most popular, recognizable, and divisive brands in the firearms world.

Even if you take a step out of the gun community, most people know about Glock. From movies to rap lyrics, the brand seemingly exists everywhere.

But within the gun world, Glocks are one of those guns that foster a conversation.

Whether you love Glocks or love to hate them, we’re going to take a look at some of the best models the Austrian company has to offer.

From concealed carry 9mm variants all the way to full-auto (oh yeah, they have one of those too), we’ll tell you which Glocks are worth your time, money, or are just plain fun.

Let’s get to it!

THE QUICK LIST

History Time!

We would be remiss if we didn’t at least touch on the history of Glock. Since it is a powerhouse brand, we feel we kinda owe it to you to explain how they got to where they are.

Glock began in the early 1960s, helmed by Gaston Glock.

At the time, pistols weren’t really on his mind. Instead, the company manufactured wood, steel, and plastic.

Fast forward to the groovy era of the 1970s, marking Glock’s entry to the world of weaponry — specifically, knives, grenades, and machine-gun belt links.

It didn’t take long for the wheels to start turning and by the 1980s, the Glock 17 emerged.

While it wasn’t the first polymer pistol to land on shelves (that honor belongs to HK VP70), it was the first one to be a big hit.

Before you know it, law enforcement was arming up with the plastic fantastic and its stellar 17-round magazine.

So, why has Glock maintained its stature?

Well, like it or not, the pistols are affordable and reliable. Two things that make both government agencies and civilians fall in love.

Since Glock’s emergence into the firearms community, the brand has continued to release new models based on the tried-and-true design.

Whether that’s upgrading generations or producing new models in different calibers (I’m looking at you G44), Glock isn’t going anywhere anytime soon.

Best Glocks in All Calibers

With history behind, let’s get to what you really came for…the best Glock pistols.

Though 9mm is classic Glock, we’re going to cover all sorts of calibers in the company’s inventory.

1. Glock 17 (9mm)

Ok, so we had to kick this list off with the OG, the one that started it all…the Glock G17.

A full-size, 9mm model, the G17 is available in all multiple generations.

(Don’t know the difference between a Gen. 3 and a Gen. 5, head over to our Glock Generations article to get the low-down.)

Featuring a barrel length of 4.49-inches, the G17 measures 8.03-inches in total length. It weighs in at 32.28-ounces loaded with a standard 17-round magazine.

The G17 is the gold standard for most law enforcement and its reliability has made it a winner in the civilian market.

From carry to home defense, the G17’s larger style makes it a perfect pistol for self-defense and personal protection.

If full-size isn’t your thing, however, then you might consider moving to Glock’s midsize 9mm…

2. Glock 19 (9mm)

The Glock 19 is remarkably similar to the G17, but on a slightly smaller scale.

Still chambered in 9mm, the G19 measures 7.28-inches in total length. It sports a 4.02-inch barrel and weighs 30.16-ounces loaded.

This midsize model is versatile and easily transitions from the range to concealed carry with its double-stack design.

Again, it’s seen wide use in the law enforcement realm and, like most Glock products, is renowned for its ease of use and reliability.

Not to mention, the 9mm chambering means that, in non-ammo shortage scenarios, you should be able to easily train with it alongside its standard 15-round magazine.

The G19 also benefits from a wealth of aftermarket support so you can switch sights, triggers, and slides if you so choose.

Interested in learning even more, especially about the Gen 5 G19, then head over to our full review.

If you still need something smaller to conceal, maybe in hotter summer months, then let’s take a look at a single stack.

What do you think of the Glock 19? Rate it below.

3. Glock 43/43X (9mm)

Coming in with a subcompact style, the Glock 43 and newer 43X reduce the size of the platform with a single-stack design.

The 6-round capacity on the G43 brings with it a slimmer profile but still with a 9mm chambering.

Offering a 3.41-inch barrel and 6.26-inch overall length, the G43 weighs 20.64-ounces loaded.

Meanwhile, the G43X brings an ever-so-slightly larger build.

The G43X measures 6.50-inches overall but still uses that 3.41-inch barrel. Loaded, it weighs more than the standard G43 at 23.7-ounces.

You also get more rounds with the G43X — it features a 10-round capacity.

If you want a slim CCW pistol but have to have that sweet, sweet 9mm, the G43 and G43X are right up your alley.

For a more in-depth look at the G43, check our review here or just watch the video below.

If you prefer a little different oomph, however, you can knock it up to .45 ACP.

4. Glock 30SF (.45 ACP)

Some people love their .45 ACP and who are we to tell you you’re wrong. If .45 ACP is what you want, then the G30 SF is the Glock pistol for it.

Based on the G30 design, the G30 SF brings a subcompact appearance with a 10-round capacity.

How does Glock accomplish this? With a shortened frame and reduced grip dimensions, of course.

With a barrel length measuring 3.78-inches and an overall length of 6.97-inches, the SF weighs 33.69-ounces loaded.

The choice of many plain-clothed street cops and security personnel, the G30 SF fits naturally into a concealed carry or defensive setup.

Like all Glocks, it’s easy to operate and maintain.

Though the G30 SF makes for flawless concealed carry in .45 ACP, what about a full-size for home-defense or just fun at the range…

5. Glock 21 (.45 ACP)

Continuing the .45 ACP vibe, the G21 is the full-size package.

With a barrel length of 4.61-inches and a total length sitting at 8.07-inches, the G21 weighs 38.80-ounces loaded.

What do you get from the G21 that you don’t see with the G30 SF? More rounds!

The G21 boasts a standard capacity of 13-rounds.

We always think more is better, especially when at the range or during a defensive situation.

Which, is where this pistol excels.

It could easily tuck into a nightstand safe or tossed into a range bag.

If .45 ACP isn’t your cup of tea, though, Glock does offer a handful of .40 S&W models…

6. Glock 23 (.40 S&W)

The G23 comes chambered in .40 S&W with a magazine capacity of 13-rounds (though you can certainly spring for an aftermarket mag with up to 22-rounds).

Sporting a 4.02-inch barrel and total length of 7.28-inches, it weighs 34.36-ounces loaded.

It’s available in Gen. 4 or Gen. 5, but if you go for a Gen. 5 you’ll get the bonus of an nDLC finish, Glock Marksman barrel, and flared magwell.

Oh, and lefties will appreciate that ambidextrous slide stop lever too!

Using a compact build, the G23 is a nice middle area between full-size and subcompact.

And if you happen to love red dots and optics as much as we do, there’s even a MOS model that supports red dots.

If you love the .40-caliber, then you can’t get better than the G23.

Of course, while we’re talking alternative rounds, we might as well mention that Glock also has 10mm offerings…

7. Glock 20 (10mm)

There’s something cool about shooting 10mm. Whether you’re doing it on the hunt or at the range, it’s a fun round!

Luckily Glock has a few 10mm offerings up its sleeve, but our favorite is the G20.

With a capacity sitting at 15-rounds, the G20 is a full-size model with 8.07-inches in total length to its name.

The barrel measures 4.61-inches and total loaded weight is 39.86-ounces.

While the G20 only comes in the Gen. 4 variant, but Glock does offer an SF, or short frame, model.

You still get that 15-round capacity with the SF and most of the measurements are on par with the G20.

But the SF downsizes the receiver’s circumference at the rear for a little more ease when shooting.

Interested in a deep dive into this 10mm bad boy? Check out our full review here!

Of course, if 10mm is just a bit much in your book, you can move in the opposite direction to a Glock in .380 ACP.

8. Glock 42 (.380 ACP)

The G42 comes chambered in .380 ACP which means there’s little to no recoil while shooting.

This subcompact offers a barrel length of 3.25-inches with an overall length measuring 5.94-inches. Weight rests at 15.87-ounces loaded.

Glock’s G42 is an ultra-compact pistol designed for concealed carry. This is your summer gun!

The trade-off for such a small handgun, though, is capacity. In the case of the G42, that means 6 rounds. Probably want to stock up on the spare mags…

It keeps to Glock’s easy-to-shoot-and-maintain platform and brings that durability you’ve come to expect from the Glock brand.

If .380 ACP is still too much, you can always go with a cartridge most of us probably started on…a .22 LR.

9. Glock 44 (.22 LR)

Ok, so I know the G44 is controversial. I’m sorry to all the fanbois who wanted a Glock PCC but instead got a .22 LR. Don’t throw hate at me.

The G44 burst onto the scene with a .22 LR chambering. According to the company, they wanted to introduce a gun specifically for first-time gun owners and those that put in a lot of training reps at the range.

Mimicking the size of the G19, the G44 comes with a 4.02-inch barrel and an overall length of 7.28-inches. Loaded with its standard 10 rounds, it weighs 16.40-ounces.

While you most likely won’t be packing this in your IWB holster, the G44’s strength comes from the fact that you can easily plink with it.

Normally, .22 LR ammo is cheap and easy to find, making this gun a perfect training companion.

Not to mention, .22 LR has virtually no recoil so first-timers will find this comfortable and less intimidating to shoot.

To see the G44 in action, peep our video below or you can read our full review here!

10. G48 MOS (9mm)

A newer Glock model, the G48 series takes a slim approach and looks to shave down on size.

Chambered in 9mm, it measures pretty close to the G19 but adopts Glock’s Slimline build to reduce its width.

Where the regular, ole G19 offers a 1.26-inch width, the G48 MOS measures 1.10-inches.

The G48 brings a 4.17-inch barrel to the table with an overall length of 7.28-inches. It tips scales at 24.97-ounces loaded. And, it comes with a standard capacity of 10 rounds.

The MOS designator means that it uses Glock’s Modular Optic System. If you love red dots, this is a great pistol to toss an optic on — especially for concealed carry.

For more info on the G48 (and G43X) walk on over to our full review here.

Honorable Mentions

We couldn’t do an ultimate Glock list and leave off the very cool full-auto (yeah, you read that right) Glock 18.

The G18 is a BAMF 9mm full-auto Glock that most of us could just dream of owning. But for the lucky few, it’s a rad model that is peak Glock.

Also worth mentioning, if you’re a fan of .357 calibers and were a little bummed to not see the cartridges mentioned…well, let me put you on the G31 and G32.

Both are .357 SIG models! So, go get your fix!

Conclusion

Glock pistols set the standard for polymer, striker-fired pistols. With a range of calibers from .22 LR all the way to 10mm, you’re guaranteed to find a model that fits your needs.

What is your favorite Glock? Did it make our list? Let us know in the comments below. If you’ve already got a Glock but want to snazz it up, check out some of our other articles on how to Gucci your Gat: Best Glock Upgrades, Best Glock Sights, and Best Glock Triggers.