I hear it often this time of year, “I need to get my bow tuned up” or “I’m having trouble getting my bow to tune.” Generally speaking, tuning a bow might seem mysterious or at least something that can only be done by your local pro shop. While your local pro shop is a great resource to get your bow tuned, tuning a bow is something that every bowhunter should at least understand and, in many cases, do themselves. So let’s talk about what tuning actually means.

How do you define a well-tuned bow?

For me, my ultimate goal is to deliver a broadhead-tipped arrow to the exact spot I intend it to hit. Specifically, I want it to hit at 20 yards all the way to 80 yards. I want the arrow to enter as straight as possible, cutting efficiently and carrying as much kinetic energy through as it can. I also want the bow to be a little bit forgiving to a slight tweak in my form in a less than perfect situation. I want it to hold well and be accurate. I also want to be able to spend the preseason months practicing with both field and broadhead-tipped arrows. I want them to hit together and I want my practice to build my confidence and confirm that my form and bow and arrow setup are as lethal as I can get them. That is what I consider a well-tuned bow. With that, let’s jump into how to tune a compound bow.

Some suggest that a bow has to “paper tune,” which is a visual indication of what an arrow is doing very quickly after it leaves the bow. Others discard paper tuning altogether and suggest that “bare shaft” tuning is the only way to properly tune. A few other types of tuning methods that are tossed around are “group tuning,” “broadhead tuning,” “walk-back tuning” and, perhaps, even torque tuning although that is addressing a more specific issue. Every method has its fans and its critics. Personally, I like to utilize multiple methods. By doing this, I gain greater confidence in my setup.

Nocking point, rest location and cam timing

Whether you are pulling a brand new bow out of the box or you are starting over and setting your bow up again from scratch, the first thing I like to do is bottom out both the top and bottom limbs. Next, I visually check for cam timing. By cam timing, I mean that both cams are in sync and both roll over at the same time. Well-timed cams allow the draw stops on each cam to contact the cables or limbs at exactly the same time. Many of the newer compound bows have indication marks or holes on the cams that you can look at to see if the cams are timed.

For example, my Mathews VXR has a hole on each cam that you can look at to see where the cable is in relation to the cam. Each cable centered visually through those holes tells me that the bow is likely in time. Cam timing is important. If one cam is reaching full rotation before the other, it will result in an arrow that, if receiving more rotation from one cam, results in an arrow that will show either high or low paper tears that you probably won’t be able to work out by moving your rest or nocking point. Long story short: do a quick check visually for cam timing before you even get started.

What if my cams are not in time?

Cam rotation can be manipulated by adding or even removing twists from the cables in order to get the draw stops hitting at the same time. If you twist a cable, you are effectively shortening it, thus increasing the distance the draw stop has to rotate to stop. Untwisting does the opposite — it lengthens the cable and reduces the distance of rotation for the draw stop to hit. I always try to utilize twisting cables or strings rather than untwisting. Also, be aware that the twisting and untwisting can have other impacts on draw length and draw weight.

Also at this point, I like to do a quick measure of the axle to axle length and the brace height to see if those measurements meet the manufacturer’s recommendations. Axle to axle is measured from the center of the top axle to the center of the bottom axle on the shelf side of the bow. Brace height is measured from the deepest part of the grip to the bow string. If your bow appears to have good cam timing and the brace height and axle to axle are close to factory spec, then my next step is to set a nocking point.

To set a nocking point, my method is to measure the distance between the two axles and set my nocking point so the arrow is centered between that. I then tie in my nocking point. After that, I install my rest and lock it down with my arrow at a 90 degree angle to the string.

Another method is to attach your rest is to put your bow in a bow vise. Use a level and the vise to put your bow in a position that your string is perfectly vertical (i.e. level). Next, use an arrow on your string and adjust your rest height so that the arrow is running through the center of the berger hole (rest attachment hole) and it is 90 degrees running from your leveled string. At that point, tie in your nocking point(s) and secure your rest vertically.

After I have the nocking point tied in, my rest attached and the arrow squared, I set the horizontal location of my rest. I start with my rest at 13/16” from the edge of the riser. I may end up moving that if need be, but that’s a good starting point. For my Mathews bows, that is the magic spot for my rest.

With the nocking point and rest set, I tie in my D-loop. After that, I draw the bow several times to get a feel for the cam timing. A draw board is the best way to check timing, but if you do not have one you can have someone watch your cams as you draw. You can also get a good feel for it yourself by slowing down and drawing your bow repeatedly. Never draw a bow without having an arrow nocked.

Arrow selection & other accessories

Before moving to the next step of actually shooting the bow you have to think about arrow selection and the other accessories you are going to put on your bow.

You will need to shoot an arrow that has the proper spine for your setup. By spine, I mean the stiffness of the arrow. If the arrow is too weakly spined or too stiffly spined for your bow, it will be very tough and likely impossible to tune. Most arrow manufacturers have charts they provide where you can find your draw length and draw weight. The chart will indicate the proper spine for you to shoot.

Another method, which is what I would recommend, is to utilize the “shaft selector” software that is available online through a company called Archers Advantage. The cost is about $10 and, with it, you can build setups and generate an arrow that is perfectly tailored to you.

For example, I can input the model of bow, my draw length and draw weight. Then, I can play with arrow spines, lengths, components and I can create the perfect arrow for my bow. It’s a great product and I highly recommend it.

After you have picked an arrow, I’d suggest that you work on getting your stabilizer(s) and sight attached. Anything on your bow, including your accessories — even your peep sight — is going to impact the tune. I’ve seen guys shoot a bare bow that tuned perfectly and then added a stabilizer setup and they suddenly have a bad paper tear or poor bare shaft results.

Finally, you have your bow set up and are ready to fire a few arrows and start to tune.

Paper Tuning

I like to start out by paper tuning. For one, it’s relatively easy to do in a small space and I can do it at home in my equipment room. To paper tune your bow, you’ll need a bow, arrows, a frame that can hold a piece of paper that you can shoot through and a target placed behind it. The goal of paper tuning is to stand approximately 6’ to 8’ from the paper and shoot an arrow through the paper into the target. The resulting “tear” through the paper is a perfectly centered hole. A perfect tear would indicate the arrow is leaving the bow with true flight. In order to get a perfect paper tear, your arrow rest, nocking point, cam timing, grip and arrow spine all have to be correct.

Fixing paper tears

Left tear (nock left – point right)

RestCam(s)ArrowCable guardMove rest rightMove cam(s) left or short left yokeUse stiffer arrow or decrease point weightMove cable guard toward arrow

Right tear (nock right – point left)

RestCam(s)ArrowCable guardMove rest leftMove cam(s) right or shorten right yokeUse weaker arrow or increase point weightMove cable guard away from arrow

High tear (nock high – point low)

RestNock pointCam(s)Cable guardMove rest upMove nock point downTwist cable for top camTake a 1/4″ turn out of top limb bolt

Low tear (nock low – point high)

RestCam(s)ArrowCable guardMove rest downMove nock point upTwist cable for bottom camTake a 1/4″ turn out of bottom limb bolt

A combo of tears can be fixed by combining methods. For example, a high left tear might be fixed by moving the rest right and up. Generally, I would recommend you start with the easiest adjustment and retest before moving to steps like stiffer or weaker arrows, cam shimming, etc. More information on how to tune a Mathews bow with top hats can be found here.

Bare shaft tuning

After paper tuning, bare shaft tuning is my second step in the process. Bare shaft tuning is quite simple, but you have to have relatively good, repeatable shooting form. Start with two or three bare shafts (no fletchings) and two or three regular fletched arrows and shoot them, starting at about 15 to 20 yards. The goal is to have the bare shaft and the fletched arrows hit the exact same point. The bare shaft should enter the target at the same vertical and horizontal plane/angle as the fletched arrows. A well-tuned bow will group those arrows together and they will enter the target exactly the same way.

But what if they do not hit together?

Similar to the paper tuning method, your options for getting good bare shaft flight are to move the rest, the nocking point, the cam(s) left or right, adjust the left or right yoke, adjust the cam timing or make changes to your arrow setup.

Bare shaft tuning fix (point of impact)

Bare shaft leftBare shaft rightBare shaft highBare shaft lowRestMove rest leftMove rest rightLower restRaise restNock point-Raise knocking pointLower nocking pointCam(s)Move cam rightMove cam left-YokesTwist right yokeTwist left yoke-Cam(s)Move cam rightMove cam left-Cam Timing-Twist cable bottom camTwist cable top camArrowsMaybe too stiffMaybe too weak-Other causeDraw length maybe too shortDraw length maybe too long-

As you begin to tune, make changes in small increments. It also helps to record the changes you make and monitor the results. It may take days to work out the tune, ensure that you are shooting with good form and executing good shots.

Walk back tuning

Walk back is yet another method to help you guarantee that your bow’s centershot is true, meaning your rest is in the proper position left to right. The process is simple: you shoot at a single spot on a target using the same pin at a variety of distances and monitor the results.

First, apply a piece of tape vertically straight up and down (plumb) through the middle of your target. Make sure you have an aiming point that the tape runs through. Then sight in your twenty yard pin to that aiming point. Now, moving back to 30, 40, 50 and 60 yards, aiming and shooting at the same aiming point and using your same 20 yard pin at each distance. If you shoot a single pin slider, do not move your sight. At each distance, use the same 20 yard pin.

A well-tuned rest center shot will yield in a straight vertical line. Every arrow should be vertically in a line in the tape, 20 all the way to 60 yards ( I ). If the line of arrow runs off to the left ( / ), you will need to move your rest to the right. If your arrows run off to the right ( ), you’ll need to move your rest to the left.

Make small changes and reshoot as you go. Remember that after you make an adjustment to your rest you will likely have to move your sight and resight in again at 20 yards before starting the walk back process again. Recording your adjustments and results can help you keep things moving in a positive manner. Once again, this may take a few days to make sure you get good shots and results.

Torque tuning

For those that have even more time to test and tinker, torque tuning might be worth considering. Torque tuning essentially is adjusting your rest into a position (forward or farther back) so that when your grip is less than perfect (like it regularly is in a hunting situation) your arrow will still fly true.

To start, sight your bow in at 20 yards. Then, draw your bow and slightly torque your grip so that the riser has more pressure to one side or the other (use common sense, do not derail your bow) As you do so, take note of what direction your stabilizer is pointing, then put your pin on the target and fire an arrow.

If the arrow impacts the direction that your stabilizer was pointing when torqued, move your rest farther back and repeat. If the arrow impacts the opposite direction of the way your stabilizer was pointing, then move your rest farther forward and repeat. Overall, you are trying to find the sweet spot where, if you have less than perfect grip and are torquing the bow, the arrow will still impact the desired spot. After you find the spot, test your results by torquing the bow both left and right and shooting to confirm your results. You can also step your yardage back to 30 or even 40 yards and repeat to fine-tune your rest location for maximum forgiveness.

Broadhead tuning

Finally, good broadhead flight is the reason we all started tuning in the first place and, if you’ve done the work with other methods like paper tuning and bare shaft tuning, it should be really close already.

A fixed-blade broadhead is going to have more surface area than your field tips and because of this will exaggerate an error in flight. Before I begin shooting broadheads, there are a few steps I like to take to ensure that any issues I might see are not the issues with the arrow/broadhead and are, indeed, issues with tune.

The first step is to install a broadhead and check for alignment by spinning each arrow. Any misalignment will cause a wobble in the arrow and poor flight. To check each arrow, use an arrow spinner like the Pine Ridge Arrow Inspector. Spin each arrow, taking note of the broadhead tip, watching for any wobble in the tip. Another method that I prefer is to put the tip of the broadhead up against a cardboard box and as you spin the arrow you will see the point start to make a circle in the cardboard if there is any misalignment. Perfect alignment will result in a pin hole in the cardboard and perfect alignment.

If the arrow tip does make a circle in the box, rotate the arrow tip until it’s in the top most position then use a sharpie to mark the arrow tip at that position. Rotate that arrow 180 degrees from that mark and then apply pressure to the point of the head on a hard surface. What you are wanting to do is to bend or push the insert in alignment with the broadhead. Recheck alignment by spinning the arrow and broadhead again. After your arrow/broadhead combos are put together, it’s time to shoot them.

For a detailed look at broadhead tuning, you can check out an article and video I did on this here.

Hopefully, your broadheads fly perfectly and impact along with your field tips out to 80 yards, but sometimes that is not the case. One of the most common questions I get about broadhead flight is how do I get my broadheads to fly with my field tips? Also, what is your broadhead flight telling you about your tune? The first thing I would suggest is that you should not automatically just move your sight so your broadheads are impacting where you want. That is a Band-Aid and you won’t be able to practice with field tips and have them impact where you want. Below, I have included a table to help you get your broadheads and field tips hitting together.

Broadhead tuning your bow

IssueRest fixCam fixBroadheads hitting leftMove rest leftMove cam rightBroadheads hitting right Move rest rightMove cam leftBroadheads hitting highMove rest down or move nock point upTwist cable for bottom camBroadheads hitting lowMove rest up or move nock point downTwist cable for top cam

After you make adjustments to your rest to get your field tips and broadheads hitting together, then move your sight to re-sight in your pins. This method will ensure your bow is well-tuned (good paper/bare shaft tune) and your broadheads and field tips hit exactly where you want them to!

Finally, I’ll provide another table below that can help in your tuning efforts and setting your bow to spec.

General tuning cause and effect

Twisting stringUntwisting stringTwisting cableUntwisting cableAxle to axleDecreasesIncreasesDecreasesDecreasesBrace heightIncreasesDecreasesIncreasesDecreasesHolding weightIncreasesDecreasesDecreasesIncreasesDraw lengthDecreasesIncreasesIncreasesDecreases

In conclusion

Hopefully the COVID-19 pandemic will pass quickly and we can all get back to some normalcy and prepare for the fall hunting seasons. While we have some time at home, stay safe, enjoy time with family and put some real effort into having the most well-tuned bow you have ever entered a season with. All the best!

Belly, swedge, choil, and bevel — what the heck do these things actually mean? In the context of pocket knives, unfortunately, the answers can be complicated. While some terms are nearly universal (“edge,” for instance, or “lock”), there are certain words and phrases that can vary slightly, either from the manufacturer or the “everyday carry” community at large.

But that’s why I’m here! In conjunction with my recent explainer on shopping for your first knife, I thought it might be helpful to explain some of the various parts and pieces you’ll see referenced in most of our reviews. Many of these are shared in the world of fixed blades, but for this guide, we’re going to focus mostly on folders.

Get ready for a vocabulary overload, and no small amount of quibbling. From grinds to blade shapes and tips, the terminology and debates are almost endless. But to join (or pass up) the discussion, here’s what you’ll need to know.

A Knife’s Blade and Parts

This is the natural place to start, as the shape and arrangement of the blade is likely to play the biggest role in your choice of pocket knife. Something we won’t be covering is the multitude of available steels.

If you’re looking for a deep dive into the best steel for your particular application, check out this separateexplainer from GearJunkie.

Grind

We’ll begin with the edge. That’s the sharp part that cuts things, right? True! But it’s a bit more complicated than that.

There are several ways a blade can be ground into sharpness. For pocket knives, the most common is the flat grind and the hollow grind.

The first of these is just as it sounds — the blade slopes down from the top (or spine) until the sides join at the cutting edge. Their angles usually taper once again near the very end, forming what we call a secondary bevel. That’s the shiny part that catches the sun.

A hollow grind has all of the same parts, except that the blade steel slopes inward as it descends toward the edge instead of plunging straight down at an angle. This creates a narrower, more slicing-friendly edge that’s wider at the top and thinner at the bottom. Knives like the Buck 110 are a classic example of this design.

There are other types, such as Scandi (short for Scandinavian) grind, which can be found on knives like the Cold Steel Finn Wolf. In this case, both sides of the blade descend straight down, until they angle inward to form a single, primary bevel/edge.

These are excellent for outdoor pursuits, specifically woodworking and bushcraft. Saber grinds are similar to Scandis, though they angle inward again to form a shorter, secondary bevel at the edge. Both of these are far more common on fixed blades as opposed to folders.

Tip to Belly

A knife’s belly is the part of the blade where the edge curves up toward the tip. Unlike human beings, the more belly your knife has, the better it is at sliding through things.

Some knives (like tantos) have no belly at all. These are better suited for scraping or piercing tasks. You may also see serrations near the backside of the edge (also called the heel), which are saw-like teeth best used for cutting fibrous materials like a rope.

This is also where makers potentially install a sharpening choil, which is a small (usually half-moon) shaped cutout that allows users to more easily sharpen the full length of the edge.

The Benchmade Bugout, for instance, has a large choil, while the Spyderco Delica has none.

Proceeding upward from the tip, you’ll often see a narrowed stretch of metal along the top of the blade. This is called a swedge, and it helps taper the steel into a fine point.

There are an incredible number of tip styles and, to be frank, the labeling is incredibly nebulous: reverse tanto, sheepsfoot, Wharncliffe, drop point, and clip — makers tend to play fast and loose with their naming conventions. Just know that the narrower the tip, the more delicate it is.

Near the rear of the spine, many makers include a series of small, beveled cutouts known as jimping. These are designed to provide a natural landing spot for your thumb, lending additional texture and grip.

Opening, Locking Mechanisms

This is a big one, so I’m going to boil it down to basics. Thumb studs and finger holes are exactly what they sound like. They’re added or absent bits of metal along the upper rear of the blade, which allow you to push the knife open with your thumb.

A flipper tab does the same thing, though it’s positioned on the bottom side, near the heel. Many of these also serve double duty as a blade guard, keeping your finger away from the edge once the knife is open.

Front flippers are also a thing, though these require some practice. Nail nicks are most common on traditional knives, which utilize a backspring to keep the blade semi-locked in place.

However it opens, the blade will swing open on a pivot. And surrounding the pivot, you’re likely to find things like washers or bearings to help move the action along. You’ll also see reviewers discussing a knife’s detent.

As the folks at Knives and Tools so eloquently described, this is another small bearing that lines up with a hole cut out in the hidden portion of the blade.

“Because the detent ball falls into the hole when the knife is closed, the knife will stay closed.”

So when you see a reference to “detent,” folks are generally discussing the amount of force required to pop open a blade. Simple!

Locks are a different matter. For a discussion on these, I’m going to refer you to the experts at KnifeCenter. Frankly, this topic is vast enough to be an article in itself. But it’s hard to go wrong with the basics, like a back lock, frame lock, or liner lock.

Handle and Clip

You know what a broom handle is, right?

Well, knife handles are a lot like that, only they’re attached to sharpened steel instead of rough bristles. Basically, it’s the place where you put your hand. There are plenty of materials used here, but the most common are things like G-10, FRN, Micarta, and carbon fiber.

These are well-suited for most general use, though metals like titanium, steel, and aluminum are also popular. Heck, you can even find wood or bone pocket knives, if you’re going the traditional route.

Best for general use: G-10, FRN. Because of their water resistance and grippy nature, these materials are perfect for most everyday tasks. Micarta also fits into this category, but can garner stains from moisture.

Best for metal-heads: stainless steel, titanium. If you’re looking for a full-metal experience, both of these make for functional handles. However, stainless steel handles can become rather weighty. And though titanium is lighter, neither offer the in-hand warmth of other materials.

Best for fancy folks: carbon fiber, wood, bone. Carbon fiber is an excellent choice for lightweight handles. While formerly limited to high-priced knives, it’s now available on several budget-friendly models. Wood and bone are most often relegated to traditional knives, though there are exceptions from Helle and Opinel.

If you’re opting for a handle made with polymer or natural material, your knife will generally have liners. These bits of steel provide structural support and give your handle scales something to sit on. You’ll also find various posts and spacers along the back, which keep the scales from pinching down on the closed blade.

Sometimes, these are hollowed out to form a lanyard hole, allowing you to loop fabric through for decoration or added grip. This passes through both the flat side that usually bears the maker’s logo (the show side), and the opposite surface known as the clip side.

Types of Pocket Clips

And that brings us to one of the things that make pocket knives, well, pocketable. Pocket clips come in many forms, but the most popular terms you’ll see are these: deep carry, reversible, and tip up/tip down.

Deep carry fits its description. These clips allow the backend of the knife to rest near the top seam of your pocket, creating a more discrete appearance. But in general, most pocket clips allow at least a portion of the knife to be seen.

Reversible and tip up/tip down are different sides of the same coin (or knife). This means that the clip can be moved and repositioned, whether it be to suit a left-handed user or someone with a preference between having the knife’s stowed tip facing upward or downward in the pocket.

Here’s a hint for new knife folks: 99% of the time, tip up is significantly easier and safer, as the back of your pocket helps keep the blade closed.

Got all that? If not, there are plenty of ways to keep the terms fresh in your memory. One of the best is this visual aid from Knafs — a poster showing everything discussed here and more. And if all else fails, pull up reviews and discussions from YouTube.

But you don’t have to know any of this stuff in order to enjoy and use a pocket knife. The most important thing to keep in mind, as with all tools, is safety.

Know where your edge is pointing, what you intend to cut, and make sure your space is clear. And if you’re still unsure as to what you’re looking for in a blade, check out our guide on how to shop for your very first knife.

When you think of trophy whitetails, public land likely isn’t the first thought to pop into your head, and that’s understandable. However, monster bucks get taken off public tracts year after year, leaving us scratching our heads. Not all public lands are created equal, though. Some offer little resources to produce magazine-quality deer. Others are so highly pressured by hunters that you’ll likely see an orange vest before you see a buck. However, the Midwest has a reputation for its strictly managed public lands and vast agriculture that will make public land feel like whitetail heaven.

Ohio, in particular, is one of the best states in the nation for hunting public whitetails, with woods packed to the gills with the kind of trophy bucks you will be raving about for the rest of your life. Of course, Ohio is a big state, with numerous major cities and suburban areas, but it has quite a bit of public land available to deer hunters, much of which is home to big bucks. Here are some of the best public hunting tracts that every avid hunter needs to experience when coming to Ohio.

Check out the Ohio Department of Natural Resources (ODNR) for updated maps and info on Ohio hunting.

Woodbury Wildlife Area

If you ask a few Ohioans to point you toward a good slab of public deer hunting land, few spots will come up in your conversations as often as the Woodbury Wildlife Area. Located in Coshocton County, about an hour-and-a-half drive northeast of Columbus, the Woodbury Wildlife Area covers some 20,000 acres and is overflowing with trophy bucks.

Woodbury and Coshocton are popular spots for hunters and other nature enthusiasts, so you may have to take the less traveled paths to find the prime deer areas. Still, Woodbury is a beautiful piece of Ohio public land, and the adventure is worth it.

Dillon Wildlife Area

If the wide-open expanses of Woodbury sound appealing, but the crowds turn you off, then the Dillon Wildlife Area is a similar whitetail deer hunting area that you might be interested in.

The deer in this area are under moderate pressure from hunters. Considering Ohio’s hunting reputation, public lands like Dillon and Woodbury are in high demand for destination hunters—but it’s not too tricky to find less-traveled spots and the deer herds that take refuge there. The Dillon Wildlife Area is located in Nashport, just a half-hour jog from Woodbury, so you can quickly try both out on the same trip.

Conesville Coal Lands

The northeast region of Ohio is a thriving deer habitat, loaded with great places to set up camp and hunt. If you are heading to Coshocton for the Woodbury or Dillon Wildlife areas, complete the hat trick with the Conesville Coal Lands.

The hunting pressure on this 12,000-acre piece of land is slightly lower than the Woodbury or Dillon areas, partially because you need a permit to hunt here. Don’t be scared away by that statement, though: permits are free and can be picked up at local bait shops or secured online.

Shawnee State Forest

If you want public hunting land in Ohio but need to get away from the northeast triangle, head to southwest Ohio for the Shawnee State Forest area. At 60,000 acres, Shawnee is the single most extensive public forest area in Ohio and is a prime deer hunting spot as a result. Many Boone & Crockett bucks have been taken off this public tract, and it’s easy to see why.

The woods are thick and scattered with overgrown trees and plants, but if you are game for a more rugged hunting experience, there is little doubt that you can be successful here, especially during the gun season at the tail end of the rut.

Eagle Creek Wildlife Area

The Eagle Creek Wildlife Area was newly established as a public hunting tract in 2018. Two thousand three hundred acres may not seem like much, but nestled in between agriculture and thick timber, located in the heart of the famed Brown County, this is a spot you don’t want to overlook.

What makes this piece so unique, as well as a honey hole for mature bucks, is that it is a controlled access property. Only 65 people are drawn annually, allowing each hunter to spread out and have a great chance at harvesting a trophy whitetail.

READ MORE: The Best Time of the Day to Hunt Deer

(Affiliate Disclosure: This page contains affiliate links. We earn from qualifying purchases.)

I vividly remember attending a calling seminar by elk hunting legend Wayne Carlton when I was around 14 years old. Carlton put on one of the most entertaining seminars I have ever heard. After the show, I talked my dad into buying us one of Carlton’s new Fight’n Cow calls.

A couple of months later, on the opening day of Idaho’s archery elk season, after an uneventful morning, my dad and I were sitting high on a ridge, eating a sandwich and wondering what to do next. Finally, after some coaxing, Dad decided to try the new cow call. He assured me that every elk on the mountain would run the other way from the dreadful whining noise the call produced. After a short cadence of calls, though, he was proven wrong and I was blown away. You had to be there to believe it, but that mid-morning quietness was shattered by bulls bugling and coming to us from multiple directions. Over that season, we called in numerous bulls and got several shot opportunities using our newfound tool.

To my mind, the elk had never heard those noises from anything other than an elk, so when they heard it, they came to see an elk. As you can imagine, the initial effectiveness wore off over time, and they became like other elk calls – effective if used properly, but no longer the sure thing we experienced that first season.

Calls Have Comes a Long Way

Beyond the fighting cow and similar estrus-type calls, there has been a significant advancement in all elk calls, including diaphragms and grunt tubes. We as humans can imitate the sounds of live elk better than ever before, and new and existing companies are pushing the envelope and improving their offerings season after season. Here are some of the latest and best calls for your 2024 hunt.

Classic Call Companies

Rocky Mountain Hunting Calls

Rocky Mountain Game Calls has been in the game, producing quality elk calls, for a very long time, and that’s still the case today.

The Bull Basher Bugle Tube is a hybrid bugle with a molded body and aluminum mouthpiece. The aluminum mouthpiece allows for high pitches, and the helical “spitter” in the mouthpiece helps with airflow and makes controlling volume easier. Couple this with a throat design that provides optimal back-pressure and you can easily create a full range of bugles, chuckles and grunts. The best part is you get all this in a bugle only 18 inches in length.

The Steve Chappell 3 Pack Signature Series of diaphragms is a tremendous set of all-around calls that is very user-friendly and can make the full range of calls, from cow/calf mews to bugles from satellites and herd bulls. Made with the company’s successful GTP frame, these diaphragms will surely be a hit with serious elk hunters and beginners alike.

Rounding out Rocky Mountain Game Calls is the Voo Doo cow call. This external call is made with an acrylic barrel with vented holes to create ultra-realistic cow and calf sounds, and the ever-important estrus sounds for which this type of call is known.

Primos

Primos is another company that has been on top of the game call industry for many years, and for good reason: they make great stuff.

If you are looking for a compact bugle that’s super easy to operate, look no further than the Bullet Bugle Elk Call. This bugle uses the patented support shelf mouthpiece that lets you attach the famous snap-on blue reeds Primos perfected years ago. This system is highly user-friendly and perfect for those who struggle to use a diaphragm call to bugle, but still want to make great elk sounds.

The Top Pin is an excellent diaphragm in the Primos line. The sentry plate is set at the perfect angle for producing cow, calf and small bull sounds, and the single latex reed is very thin and easy to use.

Primos’s newest external reed cow call is the Tramplifier Open Reed. This open, single-reed call creates clear, high-pitched cow and calf noises and estrus sounds thanks to the acrylic barrel and soundboard. Available in long- and short-range models for locating or using in tight cover for that final call-in.

Native by Carlton

Years ago, Wayne Carlton sold his original company, Carlton Calls, to Hunter Specialties. Later in life, Wayne and his son Marc started Native by Carlton. They have a wealth of elk-hunting and call-making knowledge that goes into every Native call the manufacture.

New for 2024 is the Hunters Tube with Acrylic Mouthpiece. Many guys testing multiple bugle tubes say his bugle has exceptional back-pressure, which allows you to create the guttural groans and deep bugles that real elk make. Couple that with the acrylic mouthpiece that puts your lips in the perfect position for bugling, and you indeed have a bugle capable of making ideal elk sounds.

The new Yellow V3 Elk Diaphragms come in three sizes to ensure a model for everyone and three weights of latex to accommodate newcomers and the most seasoned elk callers. This call should be perfect for making the biggest bugles and soft cow and calf sounds, so you won’t need to change diaphragms in the field constantly.

New to the Game

Phelps Game Calls

I won’t say Phelps is a “new” company, but they haven’t been around as long as the above companies. However, they have been a strong player in the call industry for quite some time now, producing top-notch calls worthy of consideration.

This year’s newest addition is the Unleashed V2 Bugle Tube. At 12.5 ounces and 20 inches long, the V2 is smaller than the original Unleashed tube. Still, it delivers impressive volume and tremendous back pressure, allowing you to make the full spectrum of bugles, chuckles and grunts. This bugle comes with the EZ bugler and flared mouthpiece, so you can use the tube whether you can blow a diaphragm call or not. Another great feature is the full neoprene cover that looks good but, more importantly, keeps the bugle from making noise when clanked against your other equipment or brush.

The Phelps Signature AMP Elk Diaphragm is an excellent call for the experienced caller. This call isn’t quite as sensitive or easy to blow as some of the other Phelps calls, but when used by someone who knows how to use a diaphragm call, it can make fantastic elk sounds. I strongly recommend this call when you want to step up your game.

One of the more unique elk calls made in the past couple of years is the EZ SUK’R. This call is perfect for those who want to make subtle cow and calf noises but struggle to use diaphragm calls. This call can be used entirely hands-free and make cow sounds while you inhale on the call. It sounds a little strange saying that, but soon after you get your hands, or should I say mouth, on one, you will quickly see how easy this call is to use.

Born and Raised Call Company

If you don’t know who Born and Raised is, you likely don’t spend much time watching hunting videos online. The crew at Born and Raised get after the elk and have a good time doing it. A few years ago, they started making their line of game calls and are doing great with this venture.

They have been working hard perfecting their bugle tubes and have hit a home run with The Bomb Bugle Tube. This tube is 21 inches long, but incredibly weighs just 8.2 ounces. Still, the tube has thicker side walls for increased volume, and the Bomb Bass chamber creates low-end sounds that travel deep into the canyons to locate far-off bulls.

A new favorite diaphragm of mine has the perfect name: September. If you are a beginner, you might buy a different call in their lineup. If you are experienced, though, this call can make some of the loudest, most aggressive bugles possible due to its tighter stretch. You can also make most cow noises as well.

The easy-to-use Soundbite is an excellent open-reed call for users of all skill levels. This acrylic-bodied call has a J-Frame soundboard that’s easy to use, but also allows users to tune the sound to their personal preferences. Each call comes with three reeds and an extra band as well.

Slayer Calls

The newest manufacturer in this round-up is Slayer Calls. They may be a new company, but they aren’t strangers to calling and have brought plenty of experience and put it to work.

The ArchAngel Acrylic Elk Call is a big tube that means business. It only weighs 10.7 ounces, but packs a big punch when making loud elk sounds. The acrylic mouthpiece delivers smooth sounds to the large tube, producing a great final result.

The Endure (Green) diaphragm is made for intermediate or more advanced callers who want a call more tailored toward making a wide array of bugles, grunts and chuckles.

If you struggle to blow a mouth diaphragm, the Enchantress Push Elk Call is for you. By applying different pressure levels, you can make every elk sound there is. You can even screw it onto their tube for bugling in big bulls.

I was down on the creek fishing a few weeks ago and what did my wondering eyes see? Yep, a snapping turtle trying to hurry and get to deeper water because he knew he had been spotted. I didn’t bother jumping down the bank and grabbing him this time but I usually do that once or twice a year. Snapping turtles are prevalent here in Kansas. You’ll see them walking through pastures or crossing the road. You may catch one on the end of your fishing line or just see one up in the shallows like I did. So the hard part isn’t catching one but rather cutting into it. At least it was for me. The shell is a nightmare to get off if you don’t know where to cut and when. I’ll walk you through the process so if you’ve never tried snapping turtle, you can now!

Step 1: Get a snapper. They can be easily handled by the tail, just stay away from their head.

Step 2: Stand on the back of its shell and give it a good smack in the nose, driving its head back towards its shell. This will render the turtle stunned for a bit. While the turtle is still out of its wits grab its head with a pliers or your hand and pull up. Make a quick clean cut from its throat, navigating through its spine, and finally cut the head off. This method, if done right, will make a very quick and clean dispatch for the turtle. Step 3: I use a 2×12 with a 16 penny nail drove through the bottom sticking up to hold my turtle in place. Simply drop the turtle upside down on the nail and it’ll stay in place while you cut it up. This way also allows you to spin the turtle as you work. Begin by cutting off each foot. The joints are about an inch behind the claws. Use your knife to gently find your way between joints. This will prevent the turtle from clawing and scratching you during the butchering process.

Step 4: Now to get the shell off. Cut right down the center of the bottom plate to its vent; use a wooden baton if needed. Then cut around the perimeter of the shell. Step 5: Skin the turtle from the middle out. Be careful when starting because the front shoulder blade is right next to the bottom shell. Once again, let your knife “feel” its way through.

Step 6: Work your way around the legs. Right now you are skinning the turtle just as you would with any other animal. Do both sides the same. Step 7: Once the skin and bottom portion of the shell are removed. You’ll now quarter out the limbs. Turtles have a different bone structure then other animals so it’ll take some trial and error to get the quarters off. This one happened to be a female, not a bad thing for here. Notice all the eggs, which can also be eaten. Step 8: Work out the rest of the quarters.

Once the 4 quarters are out, cut off the neck and tail. As you can see, there’s a lot of meat on one turtle! Step 9: Using your baton again, gently cut down each side of the backstrap. Remove each side and trim off the cartilage. Step 10: From this point, trim the meat; cutting off any damaged parts, yellow linings, or other unwanted parts. Step 11: Rinse the meat and soak in salt water overnight in the refrigerator. What’s left over from butchering can be used for fishing bait or trapping bait (where legal).The shell works as a good attractor for trapping. Step 12: Lastly, when I make turtle I boil the meat for about 90 mins. This will tenderize it and cook it. For flavoring I’ll then throw it into the cast iron skillet with a little oil and seasoning. Brown each side and you’ll be good to go. Turtle is very good and cutting one up is a skill worth knowing.

Murky population and hunting status often leads sportsmen and women to ask the question, “Can you hunt bison in America?”

Hunting bison in America may seem like an improbable endeavor. Overhunting and flat-out annihilation nearly wiped out the bison of North America in the late 19th Century.

Through conservation efforts and reintroductions, the abysmal number of wild bison left in 1900 (300 animals according to the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service) was boosted to about 360,000 bison by the beginning of the 21st Century.

Over 140 years later, the vast bison herds of the Great Plains are gone. Their former range has been sliced and diced by a million housing developments, strip malls, farms, and cattle ranches, bisected by countless fences and highways.

However, the current bison population, brought back from near extinction, is a true North American conservation success story.

As such, you may be wondering if you can still hunt this North American icon. The answer is yes, absolutely you can. And you don’t have to settle for just hunting domesticated herds on private ranches either.

While you can no longer hunt bison in America the way it was once done, six states do allow special-permit public-land hunts for American bison.

Where You Can Hunt Bison in America

Alaska

The Plains bison were introduced to Alaska in 1928. Starting with 23 animals, the non-native population has grown to 900 free-range bison that roam the state. According to Alaska Fish and Game, hunting opportunities have been available since the 1950s and these days it’s an extremely popular hunt. For example, in Delta Junction, 100 permits are available for a draw of about 15,000 hunters.

Wood bison are native to Alaska and were re-introduced in 2015 after being extirpated in the 1800s. Hunting opportunities are expected to be available for this subspecies once the population has a harvestable surplus.

Arizona

Bison hunts take place in just two areas of the entire state; Raymond Wildlife Area and House Rock Wildlife Area. Plains Bison are native to Arizona and were reintroduced in 1906, in large part because of former bison hunter and rancher Charles Jones.

Charles “Buffalo” Jones ran 87 American bison nearly 200 miles from Utah to Kaibab Plateau, which President Theodore Roosevelt had set aside for protection. Jones caught most of these wild bison as calves in the 1880s from the last remaining wild bison herds in Texas and New Mexico. He then sold his remaining bison to the state of Arizona in 1927. Bison hunting came into play in Arizona in 1972.

Montana

Buffalo hunting returned to Montana in the mid-1980s. Due to criticisms of hunt methods, including game wardens assisting hunters with locating bison, buffalo hunts were banned in 1991 and then reopened once again in 2005. Now, officials are banned from contacting hunters when bison stray from the safety of Yellowstone National Park. Other new regulations include requiring hunters to attend classes on bison hunting.

Montana Fish and Wildlife data show that in 2015, there were 10,424 applicants for an available 72 either-sex permits. It could take a while to draw for this big game hunt.

South Dakota

Bison hunting in South Dakota is restricted to Custer State Park. Much like Arizona, these bison are the descendants of American bison calves that were rescued in 1881 and sold to a cattle rancher in 1899. That cattle rancher, Scotty Phillips, took over the herd and grew it to a head of a thousand. These bison were used to restock the population at Custer State Park, as well as other herds in the U.S.

Two short hunts (non-trophy and trophy) are available at Custer State Park. These hunts focus on bison that are 10 years old or older and serve as a management tool. The park provides a guide and hunters can only hunt three consecutive days at a time.

Wyoming

Wyoming brought back hunts for bison, or American buffalo, during the winter of 1988. According to Wyoming Game and Fish Department, bison hunts are allowed in “areas of Bridger-Teton National Forest, the National Elk Refuge, small parcels of state-owned land, and potentially some private lands with landowner permission.”

In order to hunt the National Elk Refuge, there is a separate application process for hunters that successfully draw a bison license.

Utah

In 1941, Dr. William Goetzman introduced 18 plains bison in southeastern Utah. Working with the Utah Divison of Wildlife Resources, U.S. Division of Grazing, and local stockmen to transplant American bison from Yellowstone National Park, the numbers soon increased.

Bison then began populating the Henry Mountains. Incredibly, the Henry Mountain herd is one of two that can claim genetic purity (not containing domestic cattle DNA) and being disease-free.

Not only that, but the herd is one of six free-ranging herds on public land in the United States.

Utah offers once-in-a-lifetime hunts for American bison in the Henry’s, as well as the ultra-coveted Bookcliffs. For a lucky permit winner, either one of these rugged and beautiful locations is an incredible hunt. There are opportunities for bison hunts on Antelope Island as well.

How to Hunt Bison in America

There are many states such as Colorado, Pennsylvania, Texas, and New Mexico where you can book bison hunts on private ranches. Steve Rinella of MeatEater notes the apparent “lack of challenge” in these hunts, but that it “might certainly give a hunter an idea of what it was like when our ancestors tangled with these massive beasts.”

Many of these ranches and outfitters offer a 100% guarantee of success.

If you want to ratchet up the difficulty, apply to one of the states mentioned previously for their public land, fair chase American bison hunts. It may take you years to draw, and there is also the reality that you may never draw for these competitive tags.

Spot and stalk is the usual hunting method, and most weapon choices are allowed including archery, rifle, and muzzleloader. Some areas like Custer State Park in South Dakota only allow rifle hunting on bison hunts and specify legal calibers.

A Nod to Early Conservationists

We can be thankful for early conservationists that took the form of ranchers, hunters, wildlife professionals, and presidents. Their individual actions to preserve North American bison, was the impetus that brought American bison numbers back from near extinction.

Without the foresight of people like Theodore Roosevelt, James “Scotty” Phillip, Walking Coyote, Dr. William Goetzman, Charles “Buffalo” Jones, and others we wouldn’t have bison or the bison hunting opportunities we now have.

NEXT: 4 STATES YOU’D BE SURPRISED HAVE GOOD DEER HUNTING

When you strip away all the fancy gear, the expensive packs, boots, garments, etc.. hunting elk with archery tackle really boils down to two very simple yet ultra important concepts.

1. Be accurate and precise at distance with your equipment

2. Maximize penetration of your arrow

There is zero argument about elk hunting popularity being on the rise. The influx of new archery hunters, difficulties of legally travel abroad to hunt, and increased content around western hunting all has played a part of the elk hunting surge! With that in mind, we’ve also seen a continuous rise in the questions surrounding the business end of your arrow.

“What is the best broadhead for my elk hunting trip?”

“What broadhead should I be using for elk?”

“What is the best broadhead for elk?”

Elk are certainly not whitetails, but they are certainly not water buffalos either! Outside of the animal itself having a reputation of carrying tough hides and a more dense skeletal structure, what other factors should you be considering when trying to pick the best broadhead to harvest an elk with?

YOUR SHOOTING PLATFORM

Regardless of the animal you are hunting, the very first stop in your process of selecting the right broadhead is your shooting platform. Your bow is the largest factoring part of the equation, PERIOD.

Someone shooting a recurve should not be choosing the same arrow and broadhead setup as someone shooting a crossbow or compound. Taking that a step further, draw weight and length, arrow speed, arrow weight, etc, should all factor in to your broadhead choice.

If we’re talking about a crossbow platform, I am shooting fixed blade broadheads. It’s really that simple. I don’t have to think about it, and I don’t have to consider anything else… I don’t even have to wonder. A fixed blade broadhead that is tough, has excellent penetration statistics, something that has thick blades is what I’m looking for. Flight characteristics at high speeds is critical when shooting a crossbow. A general rule of thumb is vented blades tend to perform better than solid blades and cutting diameters no more than 1 1/2″ tend to be more accurate at longer distances. Our K2-Fixed and Fixed EXT broadheads offer everything a crossbow hunter dreams of.

When we’re talking about compounds you really have a wide variety of broadhead choices. Fixed blades, hybrid blades, and mechanicals are all options but not all are created equal. Pending your bow and arrow setup you have some really good options. The key factor is, again, your bow setup. Understanding your bow’s capabilities with your exact draw length and total arrow weight is ultra important. Low poundage shooters and, in some cases, you folks with short draw lengths really need to take a hard look at fixed blade broadheads. Having the understanding that in certain setups you just can’t afford to lose any KE, these types of scenarios IS THE REASON Afflictor’s hybrid broadheads were created. The patented drive-key design offers next to no loss of KE, and with blades opening at impact, you have a true fixed blade broadhead when entering the animal. We can’t say that about other mechanicals. Across the board, whether you are looking at Afflictor’s fixed blade or hybrid blade broadhead offerings, there’s multiple solutions for all compound shooters. Regardless of your broadhead choice, the important message is make sure you understand your setup and that your bow is a fine tuned machine!

When we are looking at the more traditional setups, these guys tend to like a traditional broadhead, right? A single bevel or potentially other fixed blade options, but some trad guys are actually shooting different hybrid broadheads. Something like our Hybrid X or our K2 Mini in the heavyweight stainless steel versions where they’re getting into 175 grains, are really gaining popularity. An outside the box solution for traditional archers, but hybrid designs can be a viable option.

YOUR ARROW BUILDS

The other consideration on your setup is around your arrow builds.

For seasoned elk hunters, their arrow builds and broadheads go hand in hand with their shooting platform. Since the western hunting is growing and evolving, there’s a lot more new elk hunters in the mountains, and we’re a trend of eastern guys thinking elk are just big deer. “I’m a whitetail hunter and I’m going elk hunting. That mindset is a mistake.

You need to understand you WILL need more Kinetic Energy and Momentum for pass through shots on elk…regardless if you are shooting a mechanical, hybrid, or fixed blade broadhead. You need to understand that the average archery shot on an elk is much longer than the average shot on a whitetail. You need to understand and plan for this. If you are an eastern guy and truly just want to shoot the same arrows for both species, the best advice is to take the “reverse engineer” approach. Build and shoot what will work for the tougher animals and it will work for whitetails.

HUNTING STYLE AND POTENTIAL SHOT OPPORTUNITIES

• Where are you going to be hunting?
• Are you going to be hunting a waterhole with a standard blind placement?
• Are you going to be spot and stalk?
• Are you going to be calling?
• Are you willing to take a shots that is pushing your limits?

Not all western states have the same elk hunting regulations when it comes to archery equipment. Make sure you read and fully understand the regs of the state where you hold your elk tag. Some states have specific requirements around broadheads. For a quick break down you can check out one of our other blogs by clicking here.

Your hunting style will certainly impact the potential for tough shots. If you are planning to only ambush hunt elk, similar to whitetails, shot opportunities tend to be closer and with less obstructions. If you’re like the majority of elk hunters, calling and glassing to locate animals and then closing the distance, it’s pretty common to face less than ideal shot angles, obstructions, and some serious distance.

All these variable influence what type of broadhead will perform best, but the common theme doesn’t change. Make sure you have enough KE and Momentum with great long distance flight characteristics.

CUTTING DIAMETER

One consistent theme over the years, no matter what part of this industry I’ve been, it seems that elk hunters have a preference for a certain diameter cut, no matter what broadhead that they’re shooting….1 1/2″. Now, of course, there’s highs and lows to that, but I’m just saying as an average, in our experience for most people, what they’re looking for is 1 1/2″ cutting diameter.

The discovery behind that is that seems to be the cut that offers the greatest penetration for most people’s set up. When that broadhead hits that 1 1/2″ mark, it seems to really be able to pass through elk and still carry good flight characteristics.

Why does size make a difference? Well, when you start getting into broadhead diameters that are 2″ and up, you really have to have the right setup to drive that home for enough penetration to do fatal damage. You may also be handicapping yourself a little bit because the larger blades sometimes are a little more fragile. They require a lot more energy to open, penetrate, and to pass through. So you really have to be considerate of your overall setup when you’re considering using a larger cut blade. On top of that, larger blade diameters typically do not fly as well as smaller blade diameters.

FIXED VS MECHANICAL

This debate also lives in the elk bowhunting world too. It will never end…it’s like the old Chevy vs Ford talk.

Fixed broadheads are simple in our eyes. They take out some of the performance variables out of the equation, and you know, with the right placement you’re not going to have any problem with an elk. The challenge is long distance flight characteristics. Even though this shouldn’t be any issue with a well tuned bow, folks still want to shy away from the added work in tuning their setup.

Mechanicals have come a long way since their inception. They’re tougher and more reliable than before. Now you can get them with thick blades and some designs don’t require a lot of energy to open. Again, you have to do a little bit of research around your setup to make sure you’re making the right purchase.

When push comes to shove, you need a sharp broadhead that performs at distance. Outside of understanding the archery regulations in the state you are hunting in, confidence in executing a well place shot is king. What ever broadhead gives you these three things is the broadhead you should be shooting.

Author: Chris Creed, Afflictor Broadheads

We asked our hunters what their Top Five Dream Hunts would be. Some of their answers were… well, no brainers to be honest, but a few of them took us by surprise. If you would like to have us help you make one of your dream hunts a reality, one of our hunting consultants would love to help you out.

Cape Buffalo Hunting Safari

#1 in our Top 5 Dream Hunts survey, Cape buffalo hunting has drawn more people to go hunting in Africa than all the other Big Five combined.

Regarded as one of the most ill-tempered animals on the face of the earth, Cape buffalo hunts in Africa are extremely popular. We offer cape buffalo hunts in Botswana, Mozambique, South Africa, Tanzania, and Zimbabwe. What is great about an African Safari is the amazing amount of plains game species available to hunt in addition to dangerous game. If you want to hunt “Black Death,” be sure to have the right gear, research the best calibers. If you’re a bowhunter, take your archery gear very seriously. These animals are no joke!

Ask For Pricing or More Information

Shooting Doves in Argentina

Dream Hunt #2 kind of surprised us.

We thought that Argentina dove shooting would probably be in the top 10, but scoring #2 on our dream hunts survey?… didn’t expect that. That being said, dove hunting in Argentina is AMAZING! You can very easily shoot between 1,000 and 3,000 rounds per day!

If you’ve been thinking about doing an Argentina dove hunt, we have some great wingshooting for you. From the moment they pick you up at the airport, they do their best to make your trip to Argentina a safe, incredible and unforgettable experience. If you’d like to stay a little closer to home, we have some spectacular dove shooting in Mexico as well.

*While you’re in Argentina, you should check out the Golden Dorado River Cruiser. Just trust us on this one.

Ask For Pricing or More Information

Brown Bear Hunt

Brown bear hunting was #3 in our Top 5 Dream Hunts survey and they are available in Alaska, Kamchatka, and there are even Eurasian brown bear hunts.

Alaska brown bear hunting is at the top of most hunters’ lists, for good reason. Two of our favorites are an Alaska coastal brown bear hunt out of a luxury yacht, and the fall bear hunts (odd years) on the Alaska Peninsula.

Ask For Pricing or More Information

Trophy Elk Hunt

Elk hunting being dream hunt #4 on our dream hunts survey really didn’t surprise us.

Elk hunting is awesome, and if you haven’t experienced it, you should. We offer many different types of elk hunts including land owner tags, bow hunts, trophy hunts, hunting leases, private ranches, corporate hunts with large groups, and drop camps. There are so many cool options with elk hunting, it’s hard to choose a favorite hunt. If you would like to experience elk hunting for yourself, be sure to talk to one of our consultants.

Ask For Pricing or More Information

Moose

It was no surprise that moose made our top five dream hunts.

Moose hunting can be incredibly fun, and are one of the most sought after big game animals in the world. For beginning moose hunters, the most important thing to keep in mind is that moose are huge and can be VERY difficult to pack out of the field. Finding the right moose hunting outfitters is critical, both for your success and for the enjoyment of your hunt. We have LOTS of good moose hunts to choose from and you should talk to a consultant to see which one fits your needs best.

Ask For Pricing or More Information

What are your Top 5 Dream Hunts?

Ask Us About a Hunt Request pricing and availability