The link between where you are likely to find a buck’s shed antlers and where you are likely to shoot that buck in the fall is way overrated.

In winter when a buck’s antlers are dropping, his life revolves around finding the best quality food to replenish his body after the peak rut period. Bucks will be worn down from fighting, chasing and breeding does, and the weather. Bucks also will seek the best cover for security and protection. These are the keys to finding where he spends his time.

If you are going to find a buck’s shed antlers, these two main areas are where you should concentrate your efforts.

High-Carb Foods

Winter is a rough time for whitetail bucks. They are run down from the rigors of the rut and they need energy to fight off the cold. Foods high in carbohydrates provide quick energy and can easily be stored as fat. The buck’s stomach tells him what he needs to eat and he seeks it out. Corn and soybeans are buck magnets in the winter for this very reason. Find the right foods and you’ll find where the deer are concentrated.

Windblown Hilltops

When the snow gets deep, food can be hard to find, but the tops of hills provide areas where the snow is blown off and the food is easier to access. This is where the deer will feed. My first set of matching Boone & Crockett sheds were found 200 yards apart; one on top of a windblown hill in soybean stubble and the other in thick cover at the edge of the field.

Related: When do deer shed their antlers?

Thermal Bedding Cover

I divide the bedding areas into two categories, the first is thermal cover and it’s usually the snarliest, nasty thicket within a quarter mile of the food source. This is where the deer bed when the weather is windy, the snow is blowing or it’s overcast. Thermal bedding cover is often in creek bottoms where the deer can get out of the elements.

Solar Bedding Cover

Solar cover is the type of bedding area the deer will use on sunny days. The southern slopes of hills with open canopy of trees provide them with a place they can see in front of them and smell what’s behind them. They will lie in the openings where the sun’s warming rays can hit them.

As the sun moves across the sky they will get up and move out of the shade. The more they move, the more they are likely to drop an antler. South slopes experience earlier snowmelt, allowing the shed hunter a chance to go picking when snow is still covering other areas.

Trail Troubles

The fifth spot seems obvious at first; the deer bed and the deer feed, so look to the trails where these areas connect. But there are high-percentage spots even on the trails. Some of my most consistent shed producers are where the deer leap over a ditch, and where they jump the fences surrounding crop fields. This can be just what it takes to jar a loose antler completely off. Areas with heavy overhanging cover can be hotspots for bone collecting too.

Pay attention to where the deer are spending most of their time in the winter, and spend your time looking in these places. You’ll find more antlers per mile by doing so.

Related: Find the shed antlers, find the deer

Related: Train your dog to find shed antlers

This year marks a major milestone here at Petersen’s BOWHUNTING — our 10th Anniversary Broadhead Test. Oh, what a journey it has been. When I consider the time (weeks) and energy it takes to do our annual broadhead test, it amazes me we ever made it to year two!

Back when we first began in 2013, we unknowingly set ourselves up for a testing marathon by tackling 25 broadheads — 13 fixed-blade models and 12 mechanicals — at once. None of our tests were proven, forcing to us to run back and forth to the hardware store for additional supplies as we adjusted on the fly. We were also forced to acquire additional test heads from the stock inventory at Lancaster Archery Supply, because we were running out as we forged ahead like madmen through an extended period of trial and error.

They say experience is a great teacher, and that’s certainly true in our case. I’m pleased to report we’ve become not just older but wiser over the past decade, alternating our annual test between fixed-blade heads and mechanicals to keep our workload manageable and give manufacturers additional time to release new models in each category.

But while we’ve changed some things and have continually refined our testing procedures, one big thing that has not changed — and never will — is our commitment to doing whatever it takes to make this the most consistent, credible and unbiased broadhead test available to bowhunters anywhere. The cornerstone of our testing is a desire to create a level playing field for all, and over the years we’ve eliminated some tests that did not meet this high standard and modified others to ensure they do.

Perhaps the biggest single testing improvement we’ve made over the years came in 2014, when we upgraded the shooting platform to our custom-built, one-of-a-kind X-Ring Machine that is far superior to any commercially available shooting machine. Weighing more than 200 pounds, the X-Ring Machine offers rock-solid stability along with micro-adjustable windage and elevation and a laser sighting system! Driven by a servo motor, the draw sled that pulls the bowstring back rides on linear slides and is controlled by draw-position sensors. The X-Ring Machine is also controlled via proprietary software that takes precise measurements during the draw cycle and automatically calculates data for things such as kinetic energy and dynamic efficiency. Another milestone that came in 2014 was the decision to outsource broadhead sharpness testing to CATRA (Cutlery & Allied Trades Research Association) in the United Kingdom. That’s right; we ship broadhead blades all the way across the Atlantic Ocean to give you the most accurate and reliable sharpness comparison available!

During our 10-year broadhead testing journey, we have been invited to use some great facilities near our Pennsylvania headquarters, including ranges at Black Eagle Bowmen, Lancaster Archery Supply, Weaver’s Archery and Drop Tine Archery. As for the testing itself, we’re pleased to report that more than 40 manufacturers have submitted broadheads for evaluation, not to mention additional manufacturers such as Mathews, PSE, Bowtech, Last Chance Archery and Rinehart Targets have donated bows, targets and other equipment to assist in our testing.

In summary, the past decade has allowed us to build a significant depth of experience and expertise in broadhead testing and demonstrated that we’ll go to great lengths to bring you only the most technically sound and relevant data possible — no bias and no BS! This year, we dive deep into 14 of the hottest fixed-blade broadhead options with tests that measure penetration, durability, blade sharpness, flight precision and more. It’s our hope that you enjoy reading the results as much as we enjoy bringing them to you.

Annihilator 100 XL

Annihilator is a relative newcomer to the archery world; however, they have turned plenty of heads and built a solid following in a short time. The nearly indestructible 100 XL is made from a single piece of 4140 alloy steel and hardened to Rockwell RC 52. Edges are beveled at 30 degrees to enhance edge retention and durability and are easily re-sharpened on a flat stone. The unique, scooped-out shape is without cutouts or vents and designed to quietly fly like a fieldpoint at long range and cause maximum damage through wound channels that won’t close up and induce pressure changes inside the animal’s body. The 100 XL has proven effective with all bow styles and a wide range of arrow/bolt speeds. Sporting a 1.0625-inch cutting diameter, these heads are made in the USA and guaranteed to weigh within ±.2-grain of one another.

• $62.99 per 3 | annihilatorbroadheads.com
• Top Test Finishes: 1st in Double Combo Penetration and Hemorrhage

Cobra Barbarian

Cobra jumps into the broadhead market with the Barbarian line that includes both fixed and mechanical heads. Cobra’s FXT (Fixed Crossbow Titanium) heads were originally intended exclusively for the crossbow market, but the company wanted compound users to have the opportunity to shoot them as well. So, Cobra came up with a two-collar system. The straight collars match up with bolt diameters, and the tapered collars are more in line with standard arrow diameters. Cobra’s solid, one-piece ferrule is made of titanium to take advantage of its high strength-to-weight ratio and overall durability. Blades are replaceable and made of 420 stainless steel that is .033-inch thick. The Barbarian’s cutting diameter is a generous 1.25 inches and its trocar tip is designed to take on the harshest of shots. Heads are spin-tested at the factory.

• $54.99 per 3 | cobraarchery.com
• Top Test Finish: 4th in Total Cutting Potential

Firenock Dagger

Firenock is known for engineering products and components that work well together. In fact, their Traumahawk broadhead was designed specifically to work with the company’s airfoil-based Aerovane; however, it required too much speed and power for some applications. Enter the Dagger, which has fewer use restrictions for a wider range of applications. This head is made from 420 stainless steel and uses compound single bevels providing rotation to, and through, the animal. The rotation inside the animal is advertised to cause cavitation resulting in faster death. Metal Injection Molding (MIM) during the manufacturing process makes the Dagger even more effective. The two-blade head has a 1.01-inch cutting diameter and a cut-on-contact design for maximum penetration.

• $69.95 per 3 | firenock.com
• Top Test Finish: 10th in Hemorrhage

G5 Striker X

G5 continues to bring top-notch heads to market with the new Striker X fixed-blade broadhead. The Striker X features four replaceable Lutz blades that have a reputation for being super sharp and a track record to back it up. The four blades, each measuring approximately 1 inch long, create a 1.25-inch cutting diameter. G5 broadheads are spin-tested at the factory and advertised to have improved flight characteristics versus the competition. The all-steel Striker X is also available in a crossbow model and comes in your choice of 100 or 125 grains. A BMP practice head and blade-replacement kits are also available.

• $46.95 per 3 | g5outdoors.com
• Top Test Finishes: 1st in Total Cutting Potential, 4th in Hemorrhage and 5th in Sharpness

Grim Reaper Micro Hades

Grim Reaper, known for creating devastating broadheads, designed the new, 3-blade Micro Hades to maintain excellent flight performance at any speed produced by today’s compounds and crossbows. The Pro Tip is hand sharpened and built to bust through bone. With its 100-percent stainless steel construction, the Micro Hades is made to withstand anything you can throw at it. The .035-inch thick, 440 stainless blades, which reach to a 1.0625-inch cutting diameter, are anchored to the ferrule with Grim Reaper’s four-point blade locking system. Made in Provo, Utah, the Micro Hades is all about inspiring confidence through durability, lethality and overall performance.

• $39.99 per 3 | grimreaperbroadheads.com
• Top Test Finishes: 2nd in Sharpness and 3rd in Double Combo Penetration

Innerloc American Eagle

Innerloc’s Patriot Package — including three American Eagle broadheads, six eagle-inspired, patriotic arrow wraps and a Deadly by Design Innerloc Country can cooler — was put together as a tribute to all American patriots. The American Eagle broadhead features a red, white and blue anodized aluminum ferrule that sports an eagle stamp at its base along with eagle-shaped blade cutouts. The 3-blade head weighs 100 grains and produces a 1-inch cutting diameter. Innerloc’s proven Center Locking System uses matching bevels on the ferrule and stud to create a self-aligning, clamping action for the .027-inch thick, L-shape blades with bases that match the inner-diameter of the ferrule. The company’s Endur-Edge is built through specialized manufacturing and tempering processes to create a durable edge that will hold its form and sharpness.

• $35.99 per 3 | innerloc.com
• Top Test Finishes: 3rd in Triple Combo Penetration and 4th in Sharpness

Muzzy Merc

Muzzy, one of the most trusted broadhead manufacturers, builds its new, 3-blade Merc with a one-piece, solid stainless steel ferrule to ensure toughness. The ferrule shape and venting, along with the Hybrid Cut-on-Contact Tip, promote quiet flight and increased penetration. The .030-inch thick blades transition smoothly into the correlating edges of the ferrule for a continuous cut from tip to the blades’ base. Blades are generously vented, have a 1.0625-inch cutting diameter and are locked in place by an aluminum blade-retention collar. Muzzy says the Merc’s unique geometry and venting deliver stable flight and extreme bloodletting.

• $44.95 per 3 | feradyne.com/muzzy-broadheads
• Top Test Finishes: 1st in Sharpness and 2nd in Triple Combo Penetration

NAP Endgame

NAP machines its 2-blade Endgame from a single piece of Grade 5 titanium to achieve precision while taking advantage of the material’s impressive strength-to-weight ratio, tensile strength, ruggedness and corrosion resistance. The oversized Bone Breaker Tip, machined directly into the titanium structure, is designed to cut on contact for greater penetration. An X-Lock blade-retention system secures the .031-inch, replaceable, stainless steel blades to the ferrule. Cutting diameter is 1.1875 inches. All heads are spin tested at the factory to ensure optimum performance, and a set of replacement blades and practice blades are included.

• $54.99 per 3 | newarchery.com
• Top Test Finish: 3rd in Hemorrhage, 4th in Double Combo Penetration and 5th in Triple Combo Penetration

QAD Exodus

QAD broadheads are unique in their design, as they employ Blade Over Shaft technology that anchors the blades to a very short ferrule while allowing the length of the blades to reach back over the shaft. The ferrule length and hardened stainless steel tip equal that of a fieldpoint, which reportedly improves flight characteristics and accuracy. This compactness also increases penetration and pass-throughs. The three, .040-inch thick stainless steel blades are set at a steep angle to reach a 1.25-inch cutting diameter in a short distance. Blades are replaceable; the head comes in 85, 100 and 125 grains in swept-back and full-blade models.

• $42.99 per 3 | qadinc.com
• Top Test Finish: 1st in Triple Combo Penetration, 2nd in Double Combo Penetration, 5th in Total Cutting Potential

Slick Trick SS3

Slick Trick’s new-for-2022 SS3 is a single-piece head machined from a solid block of 416 stainless steel and finished with a black-oxide coating. There are no blade vents or separate pieces — this is a solid unit from top to bottom, which is advertised to reduce flight noise, increase strength and maximize durability. The three, built-in blades produce a cutting diameter of 1.125 inches. A proven mix of overall geometry and weight distribution are said to create laser-like flight from any bow. Slick Trick designed the blades to stabilize the head quickly and leave a slug-like hole in whatever you put it through. The chisel tip is built to be aerodynamic and begin cutting on impact for increased penetration.

• $47.99 per 3 | slicktrickbroadheads.com
• Top Test Finish: 5th in Double Combo Penetration

Swhacker Levi Morgan #262

Known for its popular mechanical heads, Swhacker also has a substantial fixed-blade offering. Swhacker founder Rick Forrest teamed up with one of the planet’s best archers in multi-time world champion Levi Morgan to design the new #262 fixed-blade broadhead. The 3-blade, 100-grain head features a black-anodized, aircraft-grade aluminum ferrule and a hardened, high-carbon steel chisel tip that is advertised as cut-on-contact. Blades are made of stainless steel, have a .032-inch thickness and produce a 1.25-inch cutting diameter. The swept back, independent blades rotate when pulled back so they are not considered barbed.

• $54.95 per 3 | swhacker.com
• Top Test Finish: 3rd in Total Cutting Potential and 5th in Hemorrhage

SYKD Hunt Endurance

SYKD Hunt enters the fixed-blade broadhead arena with the 3-blade Endurance, featuring a 1-inch cutting diameter. SYKD says the optimized design allows the Endurance to be used with both compounds and crossbows. Blades are made of stainless steel, measure approximately .028-inch thick and are individually hand-sharpened. A front-end, blade-locking system is designed to secure the blades during flight and penetration. The aggressive chisel tip is built to bust through bone, causing maximum damage and increasing penetration.

• $32.99 per 3 | sykdhunt.com
• Top Test Finish: 6th in Triple Combo Penetration

Tooth of the Arrow S-Series XL

The 4-blade S-Series XL has a 1.1875-inch cutting diameter, and it’s machined from one piece of high-carbon steel, heat-treated for strength and durability.

Blade edges are sharpened at 45-degree angles and designed to create large entry and exit wounds. The compact ferrule puts 70 percent of the head’s weight in line with the arrow shaft and, when coupled with the low-profile design, enhances aerodynamics and optimizes flight characteristics. A chisel point offers maximum impact on bone, and black-oxide plating protects the head, which comes in 100, 125 and 175 grains.

• $49.99 per 3 | toothofthearrowbroadheads.com
• Top Test Finish: 2nd in Total Cutting Potential and Hemorrhage

Wasp Mortem

Wasp demonstrates its dedication to producing some of the most durable heads available by outfitting the new Mortem with a one-piece, stainless steel ferrule. Sitting atop the ferrule is a solid, one-piece stainless steel trocar tip that is hardened for strength and durability, precision-machined and perfectly aligned with the blades to increase penetration from any shot angle. Three stainless steel blades, sharpened to a surgical edge, reach out to produce a 1.125-inch cutting diameter. Blades are easily replaced.

• $33.99 per 3 | wasparchery.com
• Top Test Finish: 3rd in Sharpness and 4th in Triple Combo Penetration

Test Philosophy

Our goal is to objectively test a series of characteristics critical to the successful completion of a broadhead’s mission — killing game quickly. Tests are conducted with materials and processes that result in accurate, unbiased results. Since conducting our first broadhead test in 2013, we have built on our experiences year after year and continuously made enhancements and modifications where they will benefit the test and, in turn, the reader. We use technology such as the Petersen’s BOWHUNTING X-Ring Machine that is advanced far beyond any commercially available shooting machine and an IDT Motion Xtra N4 high-speed video camera. Where we do not have the resources to conduct our own testing, we source it from outside. For example, we ship broadhead blades all the way across the Atlantic to have sharpness measured by the Cutlery & Allied Trades Research Association in Sheffield, England.

Test Setup

A Mathews V3X was set up with a 29-inch draw length and 65-pound draw weight. It was equipped with a NAP QuikTune 3000 arrow rest and D-loop. Three dozen factory fletched Easton FMJ 340 arrows were cut to 29.375 inches long and weighed at 376 grains (not including point weight). Completed arrows weighed 476 grains (with 100-grain broadhead or fieldpoint) and flew at 272 fps as measured by our chronograph. The Mathews V3X bow was mounted to the X-Ring Machine and tuned with the Easton arrows to achieve a perfect bullet hole at various distances. This setup was used for all test shots except the Hemorrhage Test, which was conducted as noted below.

Physical Dimensions: A Mitutoyo 8-inch dial caliper was used to determine the size of each broadhead’s cutting diameter, blade length, blade thickness and the length of the head beyond the end of the arrow. Cutting diameter on 3-blade heads was calculated by laying two of the blade tips along one jaw of the caliper and the third on the opposite jaw. That number was divided by 1.5 and then multiplied by 2. Example: Greatest distance is .75/1.5 = .5 x 2 = 1-inch cutting diameter.

An Easton Digital Grain Scale, calibrated according to manufacturer instructions, was used to determine the mass weight of each individual broadhead. Three separate heads were measured and averaged for a final result.

Total Cutting Potential: The ability of a head to cut, and the amount of cutting that takes place, is a factor of sharpness, cutting diameter and the number of blades. With this in mind, we calculate the Total Cutting Potential (TCP) of a head by multiplying the radius by the number of blades. We consider it “potential,” because a lost blade in bone or otherwise means you have that much less to do the cutting once the head breaks through into the body cavity. Blade angle is not considered in determining TCP, since angle does not change the amount of flesh that is cut as long as penetration is equal.

Here are two examples of TCP calculations: A 2-blade, 2-inch cutting diameter head has a radius of 1 inch. To get the TCP, you multiply the radius by the number of blades, which gives you a TCP of 2 inches. Now, consider a 3-blade head with a cutting diameter of 1.375 inches. The radius is .6875-inch, so you would multiply .6875 by the number of blades, 3. Your TCP would be 2.0625 inches, which means you will cut slightly more than the 2-blade head with a 2-inch cutting diameter.

Hemorrhage Test: Behind the scenes, this is known as the “blood bag” test! It was designed to take a relative measure of how much bleeding each broadhead will cause. For each head, a thick plastic bag containing exactly two gallons of red (for effect) colored water was sealed, suspended from a fixture and marked with a reference line. Using a Wicked Ridge Raider 400 crossbow, each head was fired low through the bag. We used frame-by-frame time stamps from a Nikon D5600 camera to measure elapsed time from impact until the water level matched the reference line.

Sharpness: Three blades (one blade from three different heads) from each broadhead model were sent to CATRA in the United Kingdom to measure blade sharpness with the association’s Razor Edge Sharpness Test (REST) machine. The machine measures the force required, in Newtons, to cut through a rubber test medium. The less force required to cut the rubber, the sharper the blade. As a reference point, a shaving razor blade will typically result in a reading near .3 Newtons. Additional information about the REST machine can be found online at catra.org.

Hard-Impact Test: The hard-impact test is designed to simulate the performance of a head after it encounters and passes through a hard material such as bone. We all want to know our broadhead will still do its job and keep cutting even after hitting a rib or shoulder. This test was performed at 20 yards, using .03-inch thick sheet metal as the impact material. General results can be found in the accompanying chart, with high-speed video footage on our YouTube channel showing each head’s performance in great detail.

Penetration Tests: This year, we eliminated one of the penetration tests we’ve been doing for years and replaced it with a new test we started last year. The pure foam test was scrapped, as it did not correlate to any situation one would encounter in the field; we hunt animals with a hide or other tough outer layer, such as thick feathers on a turkey. So, as we started last year, we added rubber-backed carpet on the outside of the foam. This “Double Combo” penetration test is designed to simulate a hide/body hit during which no bone is encountered. Our second penetration test, or “Triple Combo” test, consisted of rubber-backed carpet, .03-inch thick sheet metal and foam, to simulate a hide/body hit during which bone is encountered. Targets for our penetration tests are made by stacking the carpet, metal and foam plates and wrapping them with stretch-wrap film.

Over the years, many people have asked why we don’t use actual animal carcasses, or even a side of beef, to conduct our penetration tests. Our answer is simply that using such methods would not provide consistent, repeatable results from shot to shot. Instead, we use manmade materials to simulate basic properties (soft, hard, firm) while maintaining the consistency required for valid test results.

To conduct our penetration tests, three brand new heads from each broadhead model were fired into both types of block. The section of arrow protruding from the target was then measured for each shot, with a final average being calculated. That number was then reconciled with the arrow length for each test broadhead (different models have different overall lengths) to determine the actual depth of penetration.

Crash Test: The Crash Test is a violent test of a broadhead’s overall integrity. It was conducted by shooting each model into a fieldstone at 20 yards and evaluating the overall condition of the head after impact. Not surprisingly, most heads in the test sustained considerable damage as a result of impact. General results can be seen in the accompanying chart, with high-speed video footage on our YouTube channel showing each head’s performance in great detail.

Fieldpoint Comparison Test: A fieldpoint was shot from the X-Ring Machine at 25 yards to give us a reference point for measuring the broadhead impact locations on the target. We performed the test and found our groups relative to the fieldpoint were not in line with previous years. So, we tweaked the arrow rest and assured all test arrows were straight, properly aligned and spun true on a Last Chance Archery Revolution Arrow Tuner (engineered by Travis “T-Bone” Turner). We then repeated the test with much better results!

Three shots were fired with each test model, and the impact points were averaged to plot the data in the accompanying chart. As has been common in recent years, all the test heads flew well, with none varying more .7-inch in windage or elevation from the fieldpoint, and we had to enlarge the scale of the results chart just so you can identify each head’s point of impact. This is a testament to how much broadhead manufacturing has improved over the past 20 years and offers proof that — with a properly tuned bow and arrows — you can get your hunting broadheads to fly quite similarly to your practice points.

Question: I read Dr. Dave Samuel’s explanation of why “Slingshot,” the buck in Curt Wells’ October 2022 article had an extra antler sticking out of his forehead. Could Dave explain how droptines and double main beams occur in whitetails? Craig S., via e-mail

Answer: There is no question that older bucks tend to develop droptines more readily than young bucks, and usually genetics is involved. The genes for droptines (and sticker points and extra points) tend to be expressed when bucks get older. The fact that we don’t see many bucks with droptines in the wild is because we kill lots of younger bucks before they can manifest their full potential. Some biologists believe that almost half of all bucks have some genes for nontypical points that would become visible if the bucks lived long enough. Proving this would be difficult, but it sure appears to be true.

Another factor that complicates the impact of genetics on droptines is the doe. Her genes most certainly play a role here, and some have suggested that her role is even more important than that of the buck. Again, that would be hard to prove, but deer-game farmers keep track of all their breeders — bucks and does. And they can and do breed for big, older nontypical bucks because such bucks bring in more money.

The cause for double main beams is something totally different, because genetics is not involved. Almost certainly, a double main beam is caused by an injury to the pedicle. Let me review what Curt wrote in his article in our October issue. The pedicle is the bony projection of the frontal bone where the antler develops. It has a special cell layer on it where the new antler grows. Research has shown that if you take some of those special cells and move them, a new antler tine often develops. In fact, years ago a researcher in Canada grafted some of these cells on the leg bone of a deer, and an antler tine grew there. In the case of “Slingshot,” those cells moved to the center of the frontal bone — yielding a “unicorn” buck.

But for double antlers, the cells move just as a new antler is starting to grow. At that time, if the buck bumps that area of his head, he may displace some of those cells right beside the base of the pedicle. When that happens, a second antler may start to grow there. If you look at photos of bucks with a double main beam, that second antler’s base is right beside or against the pedicle. When these special cells end up at the base of the pedicle, you may not get a second antler. There are times when the pedicle is bumped just as the antler starts to grow, in which case you just get a jumble of smaller tines around the base of the original antler. But on rare occasions, you’ll get a whole new antler.

Such bucks are not genetically inferior; they just have an extra antler. It will shed when the normal antlers shed. And it will most likely grow there the next year because the specialized cells that form the spot where the antler grows are still there.

The trauma to the pedicle, just as the antler starts to grow, can be caused by most anything. The buck may just bump his head on a tree limb or by sparring with another buck. Growing antlers are subject to damage that affects the resulting antler, and double main beams is one such outcome.

Kayak Trolling Motors

Trolling motors are a fantastic little add-on to your kayak that essentially transforms your once paddle-powered vessel into a high-performance motorized boat.

If you’ve been thinking about adding a trolling motor to your kayak, whether that be for fishing purposes or to simply run circles around your kayaking buddies, then you’ve come to the right place.

We’ve created the ultimate guide to trolling motors, including the benefits of kayak trolling motors, the best trolling motors for kayaks on the market, and the main things to look out for before purchasing.

So, if you’re wondering what are the best kayak trolling motors for your specific kayak, keep on reading as you’re about to become an expert.

What is a Trolling Motor?

A trolling motor is a relatively small electric engine that attaches to the back of a kayak to help propel it through the water at faster speeds. These motors are often used by kayak anglers as they emit very minimal sound and allow fishermen to creep up on their potential catch.

In general, trolling motors are fairly straightforward pieces of gear, and it doesn’t take a genius to figure out how to use one. To turn in any direction, you simply move the handle of the motor left or right. And if you don’t want the motor in the water for any reason, you can quickly and easily pull it out thanks to the rotational clamp that secures the motor to your kayak.

Benefits of a Trolling Motor

Granted, kayak makers originally designed kayaks to be powered by paddle, but no one ever said you couldn’t amp up the kayak’s performance by adding a motor. Motors are a great way to transform your recreational kayak into the ultimate streamlined fishing vessel, and if you weren’t already swayed into purchasing your own trolling motor, you will be thanks to these incredible benefits.

No Splashes

The first major benefit of a trolling motor is the fact that they barely disturb the water. This reason alone is what draws in many kayak anglers, as with a trolling motor, you’re able to creep up on fish in a way you wouldn’t be able to with a paddle.

Hands-Free Fishing

Another huge benefit to a trolling motor is the fact that it removes the need to paddle, meaning you can be hands-free at all times. As well as freeing up your hands to hold other things such as a fishing rod, eliminating a paddle also gives your arms a break as we all know how tiring paddling a kayak can actually be.

Convenient and Useful in Emergencies

There is no shame in getting tired mid-paddle because, after all, just an hour of paddling can burn roughly 476 calories. A trolling motor allows older or slower paddlers to keep up with the pack without getting physically exhausted. They are also extremely useful in the event of an emergency as they’ll get you back to shore far quicker than a paddle ever would.

You Can Head Down to Smaller Tributaries

If you’re trying to decide between a regular fishing boat or a trolling motor-fitted kayak, then in our opinion, the kayak will come out on top. Kayaks that are fitted with a trolling motor are extremely streamlined and portable, meaning you can head over to more remote or narrower tributaries that larger boats can’t enter.

GILI’s Top Picks: By Budget

8 Superior Trolling Motors for Kayaks

Newport Vessels NK 180

It doesn’t get much more premium in the world of kayak trolling motors than the Newport Vessels NK 180. Newport Vessels designed the NK 180 specifically for kayaks, and the 24-volt, 60 pounds thrust motor will have you zipping through the water quickly, efficiently, and most importantly, quietly.

If you have a drill on hand, you can easily attach the aluminum motor mount to the back of your kayak. Once you’ve attached the motor mount, you can then further attach the motor as the package comes with (almost) everything you’d need to get out on the water. For those with a power pole already installed to their kayak, the good news, the installation process will be even easier.

The one thing you will need to purchase separately is a lead acid deep cycle or a lithium deep cycle battery that has a nominal output voltage between 24V and 29V. And then, once you’ve installed the battery, you’ll be ready to hit the water using the speed controller, the digital throttle control, and the steering cables.

Newport Vessels 55 lbs Thrust Kayak Series

The Newport Vessels’ Kayak Series made it onto our best kayak trolling motor list thanks to its impressive 55 pounds of thrust. And yes, you won’t need anywhere near that amount for your tiny little kayak, but it’s always nice to have the option.

Newport Vessels gave their 55 lbs thrust electric kayak motor a 24-inch adjustable shaft, which is ideal for most standard kayaks. And as the adjustable feature makes the motor versatile, if you ever upgrade your ‘yak in the future or if you switch over to a canoe, you won’t need to buy a new motor.

Staying on the topic of the motor’s shaft, Newport Vessels designed their motor out of fiberglass so you can use it as a freshwater or saltwater kayak trolling motor. This ability to kayak in any water type of waterway makes the Newport Vessel’s trolling motor an excellent option for recreational kayakers who like to switch up their kayaking destinations.

To help improve the trolling motor’s performance, Newport Vessel equipped it with a 6-inch telescoping handle and eight different speeds: five of which propel the kayak forward and three which reverse it back.

And to finish off, Newport Vessels also added an interesting feature to the throttle. The throttle on the 12-volt trolling motor clicks when you change gears or when you turn the motor off which helps prevent you from accidentally leaving the motor on and subsequently draining the battery.

AQUOS Haswing Electric Trolling Motor

The AQUOS Haswing Electric Trolling Motor comes in at the mid-range price point for trolling motors, and with an available and adjustable shaft length of 24.4 inches, it is a suitable option for kayaks and other small boats.

AQUOS equipped their saltwater trolling motor with five forward and three reverse speed options to give the user ultimate speed control while out on the water. And then, to further help with controlling the motor, AQUOS added an ergonomic adjustable 13.7-inch handle so you can steer and direct your kayak from the comfort of your kayak seat.

Some other mentionable features of the Haswing Electric Motor include the ability to tilt the motor out of the water when the depth of the water changes, the corrosion-resistant metal components making it perfect for saltwater fishing, and the LED power reader that lets you check your battery power at any time.

GoPlus Electric Trolling Motor

The Goplus Electric Trolling Motor comes in a 46 lbs, 55 lbs, and 86 lbs thrust variation, however, as you’re only powering a kayak, we’re focusing on the smallest of the three. Goplus designed their electric trolling motor to have 8-speed control settings, 5 of which run forward and 3 in reverse. You can easily adjust these speed controls by turning the dial on the ergonomic telescopic handle, which can also be adjusted for optimum comfort.

To make the motor as sturdy as possible, Goplus created it out of fiberglass composite rods, die-cast aluminum heads, and reinforced composite materials so it is able to withstand damage, warping, and bending in both salt and freshwater conditions.

And if you find yourself traveling through different water depths, you can adjust the shaft height and the shaft angle at the mounting bracket tilt mechanism for proper depth placement. This feature also means that you can comfortably steer your kayak from a sitting or standing position without any issues.

Cloud Mountain FineFind 36 lbs Thrust Electric Trolling Motor

The Cloud Mountain FineFind Electric Motor is another motor that comes in a range of different thrust options, from the smallest 36 lbs, which we’re focusing on today, to the largest 86 lbs, which is suitable for larger boats.

Cloud Mountain designed their 36 lbs motor out of corrosion-resistant fiberglass and ensured that you can adjust the shaft for proper depth placement in all types of water conditions. Then, to aid even further in durability, they added a reinforced nylon bracket and saltwater-compatible hardware so your motor will stand the test of time for years to come.

As with many other trolling motors on this list, the FineFind Electric Trolling Motor has 5 forward and 3 reverse speed setting on the 6-inch telescoping adjustable handle so you can control the speed and direction in which your kayak is going.

Watersnake Tracer Transom Mount Trolling Motor

The first Watersnake trolling motor to make our list is the Tracer Transom Mount Trolling Motor. This motor, in particular, has 30 pounds of thrust, however, there are larger options if you’d like a more versatile and powerful motor.

Watersnake gave their trolling motor 7 different speed options, five forwards and two in reverse, which you can control by the speed dial on the extendable handle. And speaking of extendability, the shaft is also adjustable and designed out of chrome-plated steel, so you can use the motor in saltwater.

Watersnake T18 ASP

If you’re after an incredibly lightweight trolling motor, then look no further than the Watersnake T18 ASp. This 18-pound thrust motor weighs only 4.85 lbs making it the lightest option (by far) on our list.

Most kayak trolling motors come with much larger thrust power, but if you’ll only be using the motor for kayaking, then this 18-pound thrust option will provide you with all the power you’ll ever need. If you do want the ability to switch the motor onto a different vessel, however, then the Watersnake T18 ASP also comes in a 24-pound thrust version.

Watersnake fitted their T18 ASP motor with an adjustable mount fitting that is compatible with a variety of fishing kayak fittings. They also decided on a 24-inch shaft length and created it out of alloy and stainless stress, so it is suitable for both fresh and saltwater.

Minn Kota Freshwater Trolling Motor

The good news for those shopping on a budget, cheaper trolling motors such as the Minn Kota Freshwater Trolling Motor will still provide you with all the power you need to get your kayak from A to B. The Endura Minn Kota Trolling Motors has a 30 to 42-inch shaft and provides kayakers with thrust levels of 30 to 55 pounds.

During the design process, Minn Kota created their motor from composite materials and gave it five forward and three backward rev settings. Something they also improved with this model is the battery life which now allows you to spend more time on your favorite lake or river without having to worry about your battery running out.

Comfort and ease of use were also heavily thought about, so Minn Kota equipped the Endura with a six-inch telescopic tiller that improves the motor’s overall comfort and ease of use.

Things to Consider When Choosing a Trolling Motor for a Kayak

Before purchasing a trolling motor for your kayak, there are a few things you need to keep in mind.

Power

Kayaks are fairly small boats, and trolling motors, in general, are designed for boats far larger than your diddy little ‘yak. This means that you won’t need to worry too much about the power of your trolling motor, but we understand it’s useful to know what kind of voltage range is suitable.

For the most part, a 12-volt trolling motor would be more than enough for a kayak seating one or two people.

A general rule when it comes to kayak motors is that you’ll need 2 pounds of thrust for every 100 pounds of loaded weight. And when you’re on the market for a trolling motor, you’ll soon notice that even the puniest electric motor will provide you with more than enough thrust to power your kayak.

Control Type

Many electric trolling motor models will come with a foot pedal, and although foot pedals are incredibly useful on bass boats, they’re essentially pointless on a kayak. Instead, you’ll want a tiller handle trolling motor, which allows you to simply direct the direction of the boat by pushing the handle right or left.

You will also find remote-controlled trolling motors on the market, but these are more expensive than a standard tiller handle trolling motor.

Shaft Length

Trolling motors come in a range of shaft lengths, often being fairly long to reach the water from a bass boat. When it comes to kayaks, however, these long shafts cause a problem, so you need to pay close attention to how long the shaft of your motor is.

When purchasing your kayak trolling motor, you need to ensure that the propeller of the motor would sit 12 inches under the water. If the propeller is higher than 12 inches, it will suck air from the surface and create a lot of noise.

To figure out if the shaft length would be suitable for your kayak, measure from the horizontal bar of your motor mount to the surface of the water. Then, add 12 inches to this figure and a further 3-4 inches if you’ll be kayaking in rougher waters. This combined figure is your ideal trolling motor shaft length.

Mounting System

Most trolling motors are designed for bow mounting on a bass boat, but with a kayak, you’ll need a transom mounting system. Transom mounting systems fit the scuppers in your kayak’s cockpit, and once installed, the system will provide you with a solid bar that you can then mount your trolling motor.

Weight

Something many people don’t consider is the additional weight a trolling motor adds to your kayak. All kayaks have a maximum weight capacity, and your weight, the weight of any fishing gear (if you’re using your kayak for kayak fishing), and the additional weight of a trolling motor could tip you over the limit and cause your kayak to sink into the water.

Before you purchase a trolling motor, calculate your weight, the weight of any passengers (if you’re paddling tandem), and the weight of any gear that’ll be on board at any given time. Then add on the weight of the trolling motor you have in mind and ensure that you remain under your kayak’s maximum weight limit.

FAQ’S

What To Look For When Choosing A Crossbow Under $500

You might think that when looking for a budget crossbow under $500 that you have to sacrifice certain features or preferences. That isn’t the case, though. You can still be picky. Here are some specific things to look at.

Brand Name

RELATED: Best Crossbow

It’s not always necessary to get a brand name, but in the case of crossbows, certain brands do give you the confidence that they’ll be well crafted. When looking for a budget crossbow, specifically, several name brands help assure you that the low price doesn’t necessarily mean lower quality. These include:

• Barnett
• PSE Archery
• TenPoint (who also make Wicked Ridge models)
• Bowtech/Excalibur
• Bear Archery
• Centerpoint
• Killer Instinct

RELATED: Best Hunting Gear

Compound, Recurve or Reverse Draw

Among the three main types of crossbows, compound models are by far the most common. They provide power and speed without being too bulky. Plus, they minimize draw weight without sacrificing power.

As opposed to compound crossbows, recurve models are much simpler. As a result, they rarely break down, require minimal maintenance and are easier to use. This makes them good for beginners. Their main downside is size, specifically ATA width. They also usually have a bit less power, but this can also be good for beginners.

Reverse-draw crossbows are a newer type of crossbow with a more innovative design that involves, well, drawing the crossbow the opposite way. The advantage is that you get a longer power stroke, which means the bowstring accelerates the bolt for more time, giving you more speed and power with a narrower ATA. They also tend to shoot more quietly.

Unfortunately, reverse-draw models are a bit more complicated to use and are usually more expensive. They’re a better choice for experienced archers looking for something new.

Speed

Crossbow bolt speed, measured in feet per second, or FPS, usually ranges between 300 and 500 FPS and is one of the most important features to look at. While just about any crossbow is fast enough to hunt medium-sized game like deer, you may want a more powerful model for big game like elk, moose or bear.

RELATED: Best Place To Shoot A Deer With A Crossbow

Additionally, while faster bolt speeds give you more range and improve accuracy, they can be hard to handle for beginners, and the effective range of the crossbow does not really change that much. We usually recommend you stay under 400 FPS for your first crossbow, but over 400 is fine if you have some experience.

Draw Weight

Draw weight is less of an issue for crossbows compared to vertical bows because pretty much any crossbow is going to be impossible for someone to cock without some kind of device. However, a lower draw weight may be easier to cock just using a foot stirrup rather than a cocking rope or crank. This is important for archers who don’t have a lot of upper body strength.

Cocking Method

Unless you’re a record-holding powerlifter, you’ll almost certainly need some kind of cocking device to cock your crossbow. The simplest way is with a foot stirrup. By putting your foot through the stirrup, you get leverage that allows you to pull up the bowstring.

However, other methods can make things a lot easier. For example, a cocking rope better distributes the draw weight so it takes less effort to pull up the bowstring.

The easiest way, though, is with a crank. By rotating the crank, you slowly draw back the bowstring with little effort at all. Some crossbow models come with a crank that’s integrated into the frame, a great feature to look for.

A crank also works to decock a crossbow, which makes them that much more valuable.

Safety

Crossbows are dangerous weapons, so safety should always be a priority, doubly so if you’re shopping for a youth or beginner crossbow shooter. Standard safety features include trigger safeties and anti-dry-fire mechanisms that keep the crossbow from releasing the bowstring if there isn’t a bolt loaded. Dry firing can damage a crossbow and even cause it to splinter and injure the shooter.

More advanced safety features include finger wings, trigger guards and even rail sensors. These do their best to prevent your fingers from crossing the plane of the crossbow bowstring which moves so fast that it could potentially cut off your finger.

Accessories

It’s always nice when a crossbow comes with accessories so you don’t have to buy them separately. Essential accessories you should look for so you can start hunting right off the bat include:

• Crossbow bolts
• Scope
• Some kind of cocking method (stirrup, cocking rope or crank)

Of course, some crossbows also come with other accessories that can increase your chances of hunting success. These add a lot of value to the package and include:

• Quiver
• Carrying case
• Sling
• Limb dampeners
• String silencers
• Rail lube

We also want to mention crossbow broadheads. You need hunting broadheads to go hunting, but these are rarely included in hunting packages, even if they come with bolts. If the package does, that’s a great feature.

Warranty

With proper maintenance and care, your crossbow should last for years, but it’s always worth checking the warranty a given crossbow comes with. For one thing, a long warranty lets you buy with the reassurance that you can return or repair it if there is some kind of defect. More importantly, long warranties signal that the manufacturer is confident in their product and has crafted it with care.

Final Thoughts

Even if you’re on a budget, you can still get a crossbow with the features and accessories you need. Our best overall crossbow under $500 is the Wicked Ridge Rampage 360, but the staff here at DeerHuntingGuide.net really love the PSE Archery Fang HD as well.

Make sure you’ve considered all the reviews and how each crossbow might fit your personal hunting needs and situation.

Now it’s time to go buy your favorite crossbow on the list, take it out in your yard and get it sighted in, just in time for the hunting season!

Prepare to follow me down a naturalist’s rabbit hole.

Not long after moving to Idaho’s mountains in 2005, I became acquainted with an odd burr that kept attaching to my shoes and socks and to the coats of my two Malamutes when we explored the forest. Local friends told me they were called beggar’s lice.

A distasteful name perfectly suited to the annoying plant seed.

Lice (louse, singular) are parasitic insects that feed on the blood of host birds and mammals, including people, clinging at the base of hair or feathers or sucking into skin.

Beggar’s lice are seeds from the houndstongue plant (cynoglossum officinale). The seeds are nature’s Velcro, covered in tiny prongs that grab and stick to anything that happens to brush the plant when the seeds are mature. Your shoes, socks and pant legs, your dogs’ coats, the hides of deer and elk, bears, coyotes, wolves, cougars, and livestock (horses, sheep and cattle) are all wonderful hosts for beggar’s lice.

Talk about an effective and efficient seed disbursement strategy for a plant. Imagine how far the seeds might travel embedded on the hides of wildlife.

According to an article published by the Montana State University Extension:

In Montana, a single houndstongue plant typically produces 300 to 675 seeds per year, but exceptionally robust plants may produce up to 2000 seeds. Seeds either fall nearby to the ground or remain on the parent plant where they are positioned to attach to a passing animal or person. Seeds may be carried long distances this way. Seeds on the soil surface often dry out and fail to germinate, whereas seeds buried about an inch under the soil may remain viable for two to three years. Houndstongue seeds do not form large or persistent seeds banks in the soil, and germination generally requires some form of scarification or softening of the seed coat. [Scarification means breaching the natural seed coat by mechanical, thermal, or microbial methods.]

In the forest I regularly haunt, houndstongue grows in disturbed areas – where there’s been logging, or trail or road building. I usually see it surrounding logging slash piles alongside abandoned logging roads, whether the pile was burned or not. In early summer they produce pretty purple blooms, belying the nastiness of the seeds to come.

Now that I have two male dogs, I’ve noticed that houndstongue plants are as popular with canids for marking in the forest as fire hydrants and mail boxes are for dogs in cities. Perhaps it’s because the plants are growing alongside much-traveled paths and are tall, up to four feet high, allowing the scent to disperse easily over a greater distance. My dogs smell the marker left by some other creature – dog, fox, coyote, wolf – and feel compelled to add their own, resulting in seeds attaching in large numbers to their heads and necks as they get a good sniff of any existing scent, then to their flanks as they get close enough to lift a leg and leave their own mark.

Usually I watch helplessly as this transpires, and remember fondly have only female dogs. I try to call the boys away from the plants, but that rarely works. Biology requires they cover the other canid’s mark. It’s how they all communicate. It’s a rare foray into the forest that doesn’t result in a least a few beggar’s lice on one or both dogs.

When the boys do end up with a generous portion of beggar’s lice on their coats on the trail, I try to pull most of them off immediately before they have a chance to get tangled deeper into their fur. In winter, this means taking off gloves in frigid temperatures because the seeds will stick to my gloves. It’s an annoyance I’ve gotten used to, and the boys have learned to stay still while I pull the seeds off, muttering bad words under my breath.

Once home I take the boys into the yard and use a standard hair brush to remove most of the remaining beggar’s lice and, in late summer, the grass seeds they also acquire. I invariably miss some, but the boys are quite adept at removing those they can reach with their mouths, pulling the beggar’s lice from their fur with their small front teeth and either spitting them out onto the floor (or my bed) or swallowing them for later natural disposal.

Any seeds that remain, that they can’t reach, I eventually find by massaging my fingers through their coat and pulling out what I find. The beggar’s lice and grass seeds that attach to their feet can become a problem if they work their way between toes or into the crevices between pads, so I check feet regularly and either pull the seeds out, or in some cases cut them out with scissors if they’re so tangled that pulling is painful. The sharp, black grass seeds that are prolific right now can work their way into the skin, especially between toes, causing painful ulcerations. Neither dog likes me poking between their toes with my fingers, but we all suffer through it in order to prevent something worse.

In the 15 years I’ve played in this forest, I’ve learned to take the long, philosophical view: beggar’s lice are here to stay. It’s a waste of energy to get mad when the dogs get into them, or to try to avoid the plants altogether. They’re too prolific. I’ve no doubt beggar’s lice, along with cockroaches, will survive the worst impacts of climate change and could probably survive a nuclear holocaust. On a positive note, picking beggar’s lice and other seeds from my dogs’ coats and feet is a sort of bonding ritual, not unlike that of chimpanzees grooming parasites from each other. I don’t eat the seeds I pick, though.

Way More Than You Need to Know, But It’s Kind of Interesting

Houndstongue is native to Asia and Europe. An invasive species in the United States, it most likely arrived in the late 1800s in contaminated cereal seed. It’s now listed as a noxious weed in seven western states: Colorado, Idaho, Nevada, Oregon, Washington, Wyoming, and Montana. It’s a hardy little bugger (pun intended). One year it will send down a tap root as far as three feet into the ground, storing food for year two when it produces all those beggar’s lice.

Houndstongue is known by a number of common names: beggar’s lice, dog’s tongue, sheep bur, dog bur, sheep lice, glovewort, and woolmat – which suggest the problematic nature of its barbed seeds that stick to fur, fleece, and clothing.

Montana State University Extension

Houndstongue foliage can also be toxic to livestock, particularly horses and cattle.

As with most plants, throughout time humans have found medicinal uses for houndstongue. The Wikipedia entry for the plant contains the following subcategory describing some of its past uses:

Herbalism: In 1725, houndstooth was presented in the family dictionary, Dictionaire oeconomique, as part of a cure for madness. In that book, madness was viewed as “a distemper, not only of the understanding, but also of the reason and memory, proceeding from a cold, which drys up everything it meets with that is humid in the brain.” To cure madness, Dictionaire oeconomique noted:

“You must shave the head of the unhappy patient, and after that, apply to it a pidgeon, or a hen quite alive; or else bathe it with some brandy distilled with rosemary, elder, hounds tooth, and the roots of bugloss, or with the oyl of elder flowers: they rub their heads and wash their feet with a decoction of the flowers of camomile, melilot, balm gentle and laurel; they put into their noses the juice of comfrey, with either two or three spoonfuls of honey-water, broth, or white-wine, wherein wormwood and sage are infus’d ; or else they do for five and twenty days together, mix with their broth in the morning, half a dram of the ashes of tortoise, and they put into the pot bugloss, borage, with a pinch of rosemary to season it.”

…By the end of the 1830s, doctors in England were using houndstooth as an antiaphrodisiac to combat venereal excesses.

No thanks!

Ironic that a plant producing so many madness-inducing Velcro-like seeds was once considered a cure for madness. I can, though, see it as an effective anti-aphrodisiac, especially if beggar’s lice are involved. The name alone would be effective.

Additional lore and uses, both practical and magical, included in the MSU Extension article:

• The name houndstongue comes from the belief that a leaf worn in the shoe could ward off dog attacks.

• Extracts of roots and leaves of houndstongue have been used in folk remedies for various ailments including fever, eczema, acne vulgaris, and hemorrhoids.

• Houndstongue ointment is said to cure baldness.

• The red pigments of the outer root surface are antibacterial and reportedly have wound-healing properties.

• Roots and leaves have been used as pesticides and leaves have been used to repel moles in gardens and rodents from stored foods.

And finally, from a 1983 article for Mother Earth News, a tip for an easy way to remove beggar’s lice from clothing: A corn cob can serve as a clothes brush, too. For example, if you’ve ever traipsed through the woods, you’re probably familiar with those dry little burrs called beggar’s-lice that have a habit of clinging to your clothing. Well, whenever I come home covered with the stickers, I don’t waste my time picking the pesky seeds off one by one. I simply grab a corn cob and scrub them off with a few quick swipes.

Re-emerging from the Rabbit Hole

Whew. Sorry, that was a rather deep rabbit hole I took you down, one probably littered with beggar’s lice plucked from the fur of the hare that lives there using its little buck teeth. But kind of fun, right? I might go buy some fresh corn ears at the local farmer’s market, see whether the cob makes a good clothing and/or dog brush.

Featured photo: close up of beggar’s lice found on this morning’s walk in the Payette National Forest, after Conall removed several by brushing against it.