Light is in. Crazy, obscenely light. In the production-rifle realm, Howa’s svelte little rifle built on its “reduced” short action is the lightest of the light. It follows that it’s also extraordinarily nimble and lively in the hands. Built with a compact 20-inch barrel, the Super Lite is easy to strap to a backpack or stow behind the truck seat. It’s particularly appealing to small-framed shooters and kids, who may lack the strength to hold up traditional-weight centerfire hunting rifles.

The Super Lite is built on a slenderized version of Howa’s proven turn-bolt rifle action. The receiver is machined with an integral recoil lug, and it houses a forged bolt featuring dual, opposing locking lugs up front. A backup lug is machined where the rear-swept bolt handle merges with the bolt body. A robust M16-type extractor hauls cases out of the chamber, and a plunger-type ejector hurls them out the port. The bolt release button and the safety are both of stamped sheet steel. Although the safety doesn’t appeal to me visually, I like it because it’s a three-position version that allows the shooter to lock the bolt closed when on Safe if desired.

Action Time

Up top, the action is fit with a one-piece, bridge-style optic rail. Such rails are currently popular, but I’m not a fan of them on stocks without adjustable cheekpieces because they invariably place the scope way too high above the action. More on that in a bit. The Howa’s action is built with a polymer magazine well and trigger guard, which keeps weight to a minimum. The bottom “metal” works well with the provided single-stack magazine, but the fit to the stock around it isn’t exemplary. Edges of the bottom metal are about 0.1 inch proud in the middle area, and at the front end the magazine itself protrudes nearly 0.1 inch below the bottom metal. On the plus side, the profile and shaping of the trigger bow are sleek and attractive.

Howa opted to use its Howa Actuator Controlled Trigger (H.A.C.T.) two-stage trigger on the Super Lite. Its first stage is smooth and light; the second stage is crisp. It’s factory-adjustable only. My test sample’s trigger tripped nice and clean at three pounds, three ounces. The action and barrel are blued chrome-moly steel. Up front, the muzzle of the ultra-slender barrel is threaded and is billed as “suppressor ready.” However, even though the Super Lite is chambered to 6.5 Creedmoor and .308 Win., the barrel is threaded 1/2×28 due to its tiny diameter.

That’s a thread pitch commonly reserved for rimfires and .22 caliber centerfire rifles rather than the 5/8×24 pitch standard on centerfires of 6mm and up. Have no fear, though. Adapters are available from Silencer Central, Brownells and other sources, so if you own or are considering owning an appropriate-caliber suppressor that’s threaded 5/8×24, you can make it work on the Super Lite.

Howa’s barreled action is mated with a carbon-fiber stock by Stocky’s. Said stock is nicely finished with multicolored paint in Kryptek Altitude or Kryptek Obskura Transitional camo. My sample featured the latter. It’s a good-looking, good-feeling stock. It’s fitted with a LimbSaver pad, and sling swivel studs are installed fore and aft. Inside the fore-end, the barrel is free-floated except for a pressure point at the fore-end tip.

Great Stock

Many modern stocks have completely lost touch with the fundamentals of aesthetic stock design. Thankfully, Howa’s Super Lite isn’t one of them. It’s easy on the eyes and in the hands. I pulled the action from the stock and examined it. The action inlet is nicely cut, although it’s not what I’d call a snug fit because it’s not glass-bedded. I think spot-bedding the front recoil lug, an easy DIY task, would undoubtedly benefit accuracy. I installed a 4.5-14×40 Leupold VX-3i scope in super-low profile aluminum rings in an effort to get the scope as close to the action as the too-tall scope rail allowed. The setup looked good, mounted naturally and felt great at the shoulder.

Recoil of a 6.5 Creedmoor is never heavy, but in such a light rifle, it’s sprightly. To my surprise, the scope migrated in the rings—something I’d never seen in a 6.5 Creedmoor before. Suspecting the inexpensive rings were the culprit, I switched to heavy-duty steel Leupold Mark 4 rings. That solved the problem, although in this case it detracted from the looks and placed the scope too high above the action for my taste. At least the Mark 4 rings held the scope securely. With a Harris bipod attached to the front sling swivel stud, I rested the toe of the stock on a leather bunny-ear sandbag and took my time in 85-degree temperatures, allowing the barrel to cool completely between three-shot groups for the accuracy results shown in the accompanying table.

Nearly all noodle-barreled, ultralight rifles are quite picky about ammunition, and the Howa is no exception. I tried four different loads that usually provide excellent accuracy, but they did not meet Howa’s sub-m.o.a. guarantee. What with the rifle’s extremely light weight, I’d have questioned whether the issue was me that day, but at that same range session I also test-fired another rifle, and it regularly produced sub-m.o.a. groups. The last load I tested through the Howa—Hornady’s American Gunner 140-grain hollowpoint—hit paydirt. Three consecutive three-shot groups averaged exactly 0.90 inch and validated Howa’s accuracy claim.

Now, the Super Lite is a hunting rifle and American Gunner is a target load. However, it just goes to show that with ammo the rifle likes, it will shoot. Of the rest of the factory loads I tested, Fusion’s 140-grain bonded softpoint produced a 1.22-inch average and certainly would be adequate for most hunting purposes. Besides, Fusion bullets provide outstanding terminal performance. As I mentioned, glass-bedding the action into the carbon-fiber stock would increase accuracy and improve consistency. Aside from one failure to feed, the Super Lite functioned perfectly. The way I run the bolt, I feel a slight hesitation just before the Howa’s bolt reaches its rearmost travel, and I suspect I short-stroked the action that one time it didn’t feed.

Light Weight Range Time

Balance is great, and predictably, the little Super Lite is super-responsive. My favorite characteristic is the way it carries in one hand. The stock is slender and easy to grasp, weight is nothing, and length and size are so small it feels sleeker than many modern .22 rimfires. However, it’s worth pointing out that the light weight that is such a selling point inevitably is also a detriment to accurate field shooting. Why? Heavier rifles are naturally more stable because their weight dampens muzzle movement caused by excitement, stress and physical exertion.

Light rifles unfortunately exacerbate this muzzle movement, and that can induce errors during shot execution. It’s something to consider if you’re not familiar with super-light rifles or are considering it for a young or small-statured hunter. Suggested retail is right at $1,400, and real-world cost will be less than that. The carbon-fiber stock is a huge benefit: rigid, light, strong and impervious to extremes in moisture and temperature. If I were to list one primary gripe, it would be the lack of refined fit around the bottom metal and the rear of the action tang. Were I to purchase one for myself, I’d pull off the one-piece Picatinny rail and replace it with high-quality, lightweight, low rings. I’d glass-bed the action. Then I’d tune a handload with a good hunting bullet to shoot as well as Hornady’s American Gunner factory load did, and I’d hunt happy.

Howa’s Super Lite is the lightest factory-production centerfire hunting rifle I’m aware of. It looks good, feels good and is capable of shooting well. Kids and small-framed shooters “ooh” and “aah” when they handle it. While it’s not of the same quality as some high-end competing production rifles, it’s lighter and available at half the price.

Howa Super Lite Specs

• Type: Bolt-action, centerfire
• Caliber: 6.5 Creedmoor (tested), .308 Win.
• Capacity: 3-rds., single-stack detachable polymer magazine
• Barrel: Blued steel, 20 in., threaded 1/2×28
• Overall Length: 39 in.
• Sight: 4 lbs., 7 oz.
• Stock: Stocky’s carbon fiber, Kryptek Obskura finish
• Finish: Matte blue
• Trigger: H.A.C.T. two-stage, 3 lbs., 3 oz. (measured)
• Sights: None; Picatinny
• MSRP: $1,399
• Manufacturer: Howa

Around the middle of August, wing shooters start preparing for the upcoming dove season. Shotguns will be cleaned and oiled up, camo clothing will be unpacked, and the serious hunters will try to get in a few practice rounds of skeet or sporting clays. Just before the dove season starts, I see first-time hunters at my day job, stocking up on dove hunting gear. Inevitably, one of the questions asked has to do with the ideal clothing for dove hunting, but another commonly asked, and related question is can doves see color?

As a child, dove hunting was my first introduction to the sport of wing shooting. Although I was too young to carry my own shotgun then, my father and his brothers would let me take a few shots under strict supervision. After my first dove hunt, I was hooked! I eagerly looked forward to Labor Day weekend in central North Carolina when dove season opened. My love of wing shooting also led me to hunt quail, mountain grouse, woodcock, and the occasional pheasant out of state. However, dove season remains one of my favorite hunting activities.

Dove Eyesight Basics

Like most North American bird species, all species of doves have excellent vision. Their vision is acute enough to identify small food items (usually seeds) while flying along at speeds of 50+ miles per hour.

Research indicates that, due to their eye location, doves have a 340-degree field of view. And, unlike a dove’s distant relative, the pigeon, who has issues with depth perception, nearly all species of doves have very good depth perception.

Because doves rely on their eyesight as a primary means to detect danger, they are extremely good at detecting even the smallest amount of movement. While dove hunting, the hunter’s movement is usually what doves pick up on first, causing them to flare away or change course to avoid the perceived predator.

Are Doves Able to See Color?

Not only are all species of doves able to see color, but a 2007 study found that they can also see more colors in the color spectrum than a human. The portion of the eye associated with color detection is called cones. Humans have three cones, allowing us to see reds, blues, and greens. Birds, including all species of doves, have four cones allowing them to see colors invariable to the human eye. Doves are able to see blue, green, and red but can also see ultraviolet colors. So not only do doves possess superior vision compared to a human, but they can also see colors in the UV spectrum that we can’t.

In addition to being able to see a broader spectrum of colors, the additional cone in a dove’s eye also offers wavelength filtering allowing them to see the differences or contrast in color changes. Although their vision isn’t quite up to being polarized, it’s pretty darn close. The enhanced contrast is believed to assist doves in detecting movement, identifying predators, and identifying food sources on the ground.

What Should I Wear Dove Hunting?

While blaze orange or hunter orange safety clothing certainly has its place in most hunting scenarios, out in a dove field is not one of those situations. Doves can certainly detect the color orange (quite well), and the contrast between orange and a darker background would likely make the hunter easily identifiable.

While complete camouflage clothing isn’t really necessary, I would recommend wearing darker-colored or drab-colored clothing in an effort to help blend in with the background being hunted. I prefer to wear camo pants, a camo shirt, and a camo hat with a wide brim to help block out the sun.

Some dove hunters go the extra mile and wear either a face covering or face paint in an effort to make their face less visible. Personally, I don’t wear a face covering for early-season dove hunting but do while hunting late season doves.

Late season doves are far warier of hunters and movement and will flare away or flee at any movement or strange objects in their flight path. I find that dove decoys are more helpful during late-season hunts compared to opening day hunts.

FAQS

Here are some frequently asked questions related to dove hunting and a dove’s eyesight:

Do doves have good eyesight?

As I mentioned above, all species of doves have excellent eyesight with color contrast and very good depth perception. The color contrast aspect of their vision allows them to identify even slight movement as a predatory defense mechanism. In addition, their vision is acute enough to perceive predators or threats due to color contrasts that are not visible to the human eye.

Do I have to wear orange or blaze orange while Dove hunting?

First, I’d check the specific dove hunting regulations for the state where you’ll be hunting. It’s possible that your state may have regulations that mandate blaze orange safety clothing while dove hunting. However, since doves can see color, I’m not aware of a state that does mandate hunter-safety clothing during dove season.

Assuming that your state does not have a rule or regulation in place mandating hunter-orange clothing, I’d suggest not wearing any blaze orange while dove hunting. Doves are not colorblind and can see orange quite well. Wearing orange on a dove hunt could decrease your odds of a successful hunt.

First, let’s get the biggest news about the new LCP MAX out of the way. It has a magazine capacity of 10 rounds, and an optional 12-round magazine is offered as an accessory. That’s twice the capacity of the previous .380 ACP LCP and LCP II pistols, which, by the way, are still in production. Ruger accomplished this increase in firepower by developing a double-stack magazine that is, surprisingly, not much wider than the original single-stack magazine.

Fine Features

Like the other LCP pistols, the new LCP MAX’s slide has cocking ears, grasping grooves (front and rear), and an external extractor. The top edges and the muzzle end are beveled for concealment and a smooth draw.

According to Ruger’s website, the LCP MAX has a 2.8-inch barrel, but according to my Stanley tape measure, the sample barrel measures closer to 2.75 inches, which is the specified length for the LCP and LCP II pistols. Either way, the barrel is finished in black, and the muzzle is crowned. The recoil guide rod is full length. And the chamber has view ports on both sides that serve as loaded-chamber indicators; they are not on top of the chamber like on many other pistols.

Whenever a .380 ACP pocket pistol is reviewed, readers ask whether it is blowback or recoil-operated because a lot of the older small-caliber, small-size semiautomatic pistols are blowback. The LCP MAX is a recoil-operated autoloader.

Like its predecessor, the LCP MAX utilizes a tilting-breech design. When a cartridge is fired, the steel barrel and steel slide remain locked together for a short distance of slide travel, after which the breech end of the barrel cams down, out of engagement with the slide. The slide then moves fully rearward, extracting and ejecting the fired case. Then the dual recoil springs return the slide to its forward position, picking up a cartridge from the magazine and chambering it. As the cycle is completed, the breech-end of the barrel cams up and locks into the slide.

The LCP MAX uses Ruger’s Secure Action fire-control system similar to the Ruger-57 and Security-9 semiautomatic pistols. When the slide cycles, the recessed hammer is cocked fully. Squeezing the trigger (which involves pressing the built-in safety lever to allow the trigger to move fully to the rear) releases the hammer to strike the firing pin. The slide automatically locks back on an empty magazine.

Speaking of magazines, the double-stack 10-round magazine that comes standard with the LCP MAX also comes with an interchangeable finger-extension baseplate. It doesn’t increase the magazine capacity, but it offers a bit more to grab onto. I didn’t use it in my shootout because I had a secure purchase using the flush-fitting magazine baseplate. (For the record, I wear medium-size gloves.)

But switching the baseplates is easy. Just push a pin punch or similar tool into the magazine seat where it protrudes into the hole on the baseplate. Slide the baseplate forward toward the front of the magazine. Use caution because the magazine spring is under heavy tension and can cause the forcible ejection of the magazine spring seat and the spring. The magazine spring seat, the spring, and the follower can be removed for cleaning at this juncture. Then just reassemble the parts, switching the baseplates.

The magazine’s metal tube has two witness holes on the right side; one has the number 5 near it, and the other has the number 10, indicating the round counts. The LCP MAX does not have a magazine disconnect safety, so that means it will fire with the magazine removed just like the earlier LCP and LCP II pistols.

The magazine release on the pistol’s frame can be switched from the left-hand side to the right-hand side. This procedure is a bit more complicated but still fairly user-friendly. The pistol needs to be disassembled, so let’s go through those steps first.

Once you’re certain the pistol is not loaded and the magazine has been ejected, pull the slide fully to the rear and engage the slide stop. Visually check the chamber one more time to be sure it is empty. Retract the slide and release it. Pry loose the takedown pin with a flat-head screwdriver or other blunt tool, then remove the takedown pin entirely with your fingers. Move the slide assembly forward and off the frame. The recoil spring guide rod assembly and barrel can then be removed from the slide.

To switch the magazine latch, first look down into the front of magazine well and locate the magazine latch. A wire coming up from the lower part of the magazine well engages the magazine latch, and it serves as the magazine latch spring and retainer. Use a pointed steel rod, such as a scribe, to approach the spring from the bottom of the magazine well. Push the wire to the side it is bent towards while prying it towards the rear of the magazine well until the wire comes free of the latch. The spring does not need to be removed.

Remove the magazine latch by pushing on the striated button side and pushing it all the way through the grip frame. Rotate the striated edge up to get around the end of the magazine latch spring and then down again to remove it from the frame.

Reinstall the magazine latch by starting the striated end into the opposite side of the grip frame. When the latch reaches the spring, rotate it past the spring and then rotate it back to reach the opposite side of the frame. The spring should lie against the flat on the magazine latch.

Use the pointed scribe to manipulate the wire magazine latch spring sideways, away from the striated button, until it locks itself into the magazine latch.

Reassemble the barrel and recoil spring guide rod assembly in the slide and install the slide onto the frame. Always check for proper function after reassembly before firing live ammunition. The company states it is safe to dry-fire an empty LCP MAX in moderation without damaging the firing pin or other components, but using a snap cap is recommended for continued dry-firing.

The pistol’s rear sight is all black with horizontal striations on the face and a U-shaped notch. The front sight has a green tritium dot with a white-outline ring around it. It and the rear sight are dovetailed into the slide. If windage adjustment is desired, drift the rear sight in the direction you want to move the point of impact on the target.

The high-performance glass-filled nylon frame has an aluminum insert and a rounded trigger guard that has coarse horizontal texturing on the front. The grip portion has fine texturing on the sides, the frontstrap, and the backstrap.

The LCP MAX comes with a pocket holster, a trigger padlock, and a polymer magazine loader.

Range Results

I fired the new LCP MAX with eight .380 ACP factory loads ranging in bullet weight from 60 to 100 grains. The pistol functioned perfectly with all loads. Overall average accuracy for three, five-shot groups with each load at 25 yards was 4.49 inches. Its best single five-shot group measured 2.50 inches, and it came with Federal 99-grain HST ammunition. That load’s average accuracy was 4.00 inches. Shooting offhand at 10 yards with the Federal 99-grain HST ammo placed a full magazine of 10 rounds into a gaping ragged hole with all shots nearly touching.

The LCP MAX weighs just 10.6 ounces, so some recoil is expected even with the low-recoiling .380 ACP round. Some loads were pretty snappy in terms of felt recoil, but none were uncomfortable. The trigger pull averaged 6 pounds, 14 ounces for a series of 10 measurements with an RCBS trigger pull scale.

The only complaint I have from my shooting session doesn’t really have anything to do with the gun’s quality or function, but the sights were a tad fuzzy. But that is due to my poor eyesight.

Obviously, it’s time for me to get some new eyeglasses!

Ruger LCP MAX Specifications

• Manufacturer: Sturm, Ruger & Co., ruger.com
• Type: Recoil-operated, hammer-fired autoloader
• Caliber: .380 ACP
• Magazine Capacity: 10 rounds
• Barrel: 2.8 in.
• Overall Length: 5.17 in.
• Width: 0.94 in. (slide is 0.81 in.)
• Height: 4.12 in.
• Weight, Empty: 10.6 oz.
• Grips: Integral to polymer frame
• Finish: Black oxide
• Sights: U-notch, drift-adjustable rear; tritium/white-outline front
• Trigger: 6.85-lb. pull (as tested)
• Safety: Safety lever trigger, internal striker block
• MSRP: $449

LAST UPDATED: May 1st, 2015

So you just shot a buck on the fifth day of a seven day solo hunt in the backcountry, and you’re 6.5 miles from your truck. Now what? Well, unless you can find some horses running around…you’re probably going to need to get your buck broken down and start to burn some boot leather packing it out on your back. The old motto “releasing the arrow is the easy part, the real work begins after you get an animal down” couldn’t be more true. An ideal situation would be to have a friend help you take care of the meat and pack an animal out. However, sometimes you have to get creative and dig deep when doing it solo.

Before you get in this situation, you should plan ahead and before trying to tackle this task. Believe me…nothing is worse than experimenting on quartering out and/or de-boning an animal in below freezing weather conditions without the proper gear to get the job done. You want to get that animal properly broken down while taking the required steps to get all of the meat removed….all while doing it efficiently. Getting your meat ready to pack out in a timely manner, while minimizing contact with debris on the ground, will help ensure that you have tasty steaks for the dinner table.

There are many advantages to packing out your bow kill. However, there are just as many pitfalls to the process if you don’t know what you’re doing.

Packing out your own animal is all about knowing your physical limitations. Don’t try to bite off too much if you are not adequately prepared to pack a large animal like a bull elk out of the mountains solo during the early part of September. We all owe it to ourselves to get the meat out as quickly as possible. When in doubt, try to contact a few friends to help you pack meat, even if it means hiking to get cell service or heading back to your truck and driving to town.

Equipment NeededGear choices for packing out an animal are sort of like gear choices for setting up a new bow. There are a lot of options for each type of person. Personally, I have found the following items make the job easier on myself and have proven to work great throughout my bowhunting career. When it comes to knives, I prefer to carry the lightest knife for preparing my trophy in the field since I will be carrying this knife each day. You do not want to carry a heavy saw or giant knife in your pack if you don’t need to; just like all of your backpacking gear, you want it to be as light as possible yet still get the job done. The less weight you have in your pack, the harder you can hunt…the harder you hunt…the more successful you can be. (shop for backpacks)

The right game bag can make hauling your meat easier, as well as keep it cool, while also keeping your backpack clean of blood and odor.

I’ll be the first to admit…I don’t like carrying the extra weight of game bags in my backpack each day I hunt. But, I am hunting and therefore expecting to kill something, and even though I love the experience of the hunt, I am not just taking my bow out for a walk. It is for this reason that I pack game bags each day I am hunting, no matter if it’s a daytrip for antelope, a weeklong hunt for elk where I am moving camp each night, or a weekend mule deer hunt where I am headed back to the same tent location each night. Game bags prevent your hard earned meat from getting contaminated from a variety of sources such as dirt, sticks, and insects. I just keep thinking in my mind how miserable it would be if I didn’t have game bags with me when I make a kill. Like the old saying goes, “I’d rather have it and not need it, than need it and not have it.” It’s also a great idea to pack garbage bags if hunting during the hot early season, to give you more options for preventing your meat from spoiling. Placing your meat in garbage bags and then placing them in a stream will ensure they stay cool while you pack the rest of your meat.

Game BagsI have used a lot of different brands and materials of game bags over the years, and I think I have finally found the perfect system for my style of hunting. Cotton has fairly decent breathability, but it doesn’t hold blood well, is difficult to reuse after washing due to staining and odor retention, and it tears easily. Canvas game bags are too heavy for most situations where you are backpacking them in. These would be a great option if you’re hunting from a horse. I prefer a light-weight, breathable, synthetic game bag, as it seems to solve these problems. I rarely get blood on the inside of my pack, they don’t retain odors after washing, and they are extremely lightweight. One thing to look at with synthetic game bags is breathability- make sure if you’re hunting a long distance from your vehicle that your game bags allow your meat to cool. The worst thing would be a game bag that keeps the heat in. Those types of bags might be the lightest weight, but they sacrifice the most important reason for a game bag in my opinion. Not having breathability will potentially spoil your hard earned meat.

A good knife it vital to “post-shot” success. The right one will be lightweight and sharp as a razor.

Cut It And Cool ItA person can quarter or de-bone an entire animal with just one knife and without using a heavy saw. I prefer to use a lightweight knife that has replaceable surgical blades. In total my knife and extra blades weigh just a few ounces. This system eliminates having to carry the weight of a sharpening stone each day. I do carry a small multi-tool that works perfectly for cutting branches out of the way before you start to break down your animal. For example, this past fall (2012) my mule deer buck lodged into some trees and pinned his rack in some branches when he collapsed. Having a small multi-tool saved me some heavy lifting as I was able to cut the branches away freeing my buck to slide down the steep slope to a small flat bench where I could work break him down. (backpack videos)

One important part about packing out your own game is how you will store your meat once you get back to your truck. For this reason I always bring along a cooler that I will place my first load of meat into while I make multiple trips for the rest of the meat. You do not want your meat sitting in the back of your truck all day, since that’s an invitation for insects and/or other animals to chew on it. If you’re in very rugged terrain, it is a good idea to pack trekking poles or leave a set at your truck that you can grab after your first load. They will provide some support for your body and help balance the weight when you’re putting on the miles with a heavy pack.

If you have to leave meat behind, find a place that will keep it cool and out of the hands of bears, insects, or other predators that may move in and steal your hard-earned trophy.

TacticsIf the animal is within your comfortable carrying distance, then you can probably get by with quartering your animal and leaving the meat on the bone. I used to quarter and pack all animals that I shot because I didn’t want to take the time in the field to de-bone it. Well…after packing a bunch of animals through the years, I finally said I had enough, and now I de-bone everything. De-boning an animal makes your pack weigh a lot less, makes it easier to fit multiple game bags full of meat in your pack, and it helps cool your meat down faster.

Small-framed animals such as antelope don’t necessarily require a complete “d-boning” process. Instead, many can be quartered and hauled back to the truck.

The Right Way To Pack ItI place my de-boned hindquarters in one game bag each and do the same for the front shoulders. All the rest of the meat (backstraps, tenderloins, neck, brisket, etc.) will get divided into the front shoulder bags. You will soon find out there is a proper way to pack meat out in a backpack and a way that will hurt your body. Place all your meat as close to your back as possible in your backpack, but keep it off the bottom of your pack for balance reasons. Nothing is more uncomfortable than having a heavy object strapped to the outside of your pack that will pull your body backwards or to the side. (choosing the right pack)

When I have gear with me on the first pack out, I will place all my extra clothes in the bottom of my pack with my sleeping bag. The rest of my gear (tent, food, etc.) will get distributed to the outside pockets to make room for the meat inside of the pack. If you’re concerned about getting a little blood on the inside of your pack then it will be useful to place your de-boned meat in a garbage bag. Some packs have load slings that enable the bag to move away from the frame, allowing the meat to be placed right next to your back, while still enabling your gear to be placed inside your backpack. I really love this design for comfort reasons and ease of carrying my gear out on the first trip.

You may have a good backpack, but if it isn’t loaded correctly, the load will wear you down fast; possibly even injure you.

It is also very important that you utilize your compression straps on the outside of your pack. Nothing is more frustrating than hiking out with a heavy load of meat and a big buck rack on the outside of your back and having the rack bounce up and down or the meat falling around in the backpack. It will wear you out in a hurry…trust me on this one. Don’t ever try to stand and lift the pack up to your shoulders either. For one…it will hurt and two it has the potential to tear your shoulder straps by forcing all the weight to that one area. Instead, before I load the meat in my pack, I will place my pack near a spot that allows me to sit down on a bench and slip the shoulder straps on and get my waist belt buckled. Then I just need to lean forward and stand up. If that is not an option in the area you shot your animal, then I would suggest sitting down and getting your pack strapped on and do those same steps, but before you try to stand, roll onto your hands and knees facing uphill and then push yourself off the ground. Once standing, you will be able to adjust the shoulder straps, sternum strap, and waist belt. (backpack forum)

With a Polycarbonate Frame, AirTrack Suspension, and 4700 cubic inches in carrying capacity, the all-new Badlands Summit is designed to handle any load you can through at it.

The best advice I was ever given was don’t pack out what you are not going to use or consume. If I know I am not going to mount the buck, I will remove the entire hide from the skull and start to remove some of the meat from it as well. Also, I will remove the lower jaw because I have never found a need for it. I usually do a skull mount of most of my average bucks, but if you really want to lighten more of your pack out weight, then you can cut the skull plate in half below the antlers.

Backpack ConsiderationsHaving a pack that can handle the extra weight of meat plus gear is something to take into consideration before your hunt. You cannot place a heavy load in a pack that isn’t designed for that function. Lightweight packs may be great for ease of hunting, but most of the time they lack the comfort and adjustability of a do-it-all type pack. I am a huge fan of a pack that I can use for a week long hunt, and if I harvest an animal I can use that same pack to haul meat out. I am not easy on my backpacks- to me they are a tool to haul weight and haul it comfortably. So I will use my same pack for hunting as well as getting my hard earned protein to the table.

Another great option if you don’t want to get your nice backpack a little dirty or if it cannot handle the weight, is to have an external frame meat pack waiting for you at the truck. This way you could process your animal in the field, hang the meat in a shaded tree to cool, and then hike back to your vehicle to retrieve your meat hauling pack. It comes down to personal preferences and whether or not you’re willing to burn more miles going to get a different pack. Personally, I follow the “less trips mentality, so I chose a backpack that can do anything I ask of it.

Closing TipsI always keep my knife and tags in the same pocket on my pack. That way I have peace of mind knowing that I won’t lose them or dig through all my gear after I make a kill to find them. For attaching your tags to your trophy, keep it simple and use electrical tape. I always bring along a short section just for tags, since you don’t need a full roll of extra weight. If you shot anything larger than a deer such as an elk or a moose and you need to make multiple trips, make sure you place your meat high in a tree away from the reach of bears.

The end goal is memories on the wall, and a freezer full of healthy venison. Take the right approach and this will be an easily achievable goal.

Also for multiple trips, ensure your meat will be in the shade most of the time while you are packing the first few loads of meat and select a location with ample breeze to further cool the meat while you are away. Another great option for keeping your meat safe from insects or bacteria is using a mixture of citric acid powder and water. Citric acid will slow bacteria growth and prevent flies from trying to get through your game bag. This would be a great option for the solo hunter who is chasing elk deep in the backcountry. Finally, always be cautious while cutting up meat and returning to meat hanging in a tree in bear country….you never know what could be waiting when you return.

The 7mm Remington Magnum was introduced in 1962 with Remington’s new 700 action. Since 1962 the 7mm Rem Mag has exploded in popularity and can boast of being one of the most popular magnum cartridges available to date. The 7mm’s has a large variety of bullets available making it an acceptable cartridge for anything from varmint hunting all the way up to moose.

The 7mm Rem Mag is a superb deer cartridge. With plenty of potential velocity and energy available to hunters, the 7mm Rem Mag is a practical and effective choice for hunters looking to harvest deer at all practical ranges.

Since its introduction in 1962, the 7mm Remington Magnum (7mm Rem Mag) has quickly become one of the most popular magnum cartridge and caliber combinations on the market today. This cartridge simply ticks all of the boxes that hunters look for when choosing their hunting setup to give them the best versatility in a cartridge. Although with the effectiveness of this cartridge comes the possibility of excessive damage to meat if the bullet selection is less than optimal.

Speed, Energy, Distance

With a wide variety of options for hunting style bullets available for the 7mm Rem Mag hunters can more easily choose how much speed and or energy they want out of their personal setups. With bullets coming in as low as the 139gr. SST from Hornady all the way up to 175gr. ELD-X’s your choice should reflect the expected distance and required energy of your hunt.

In this case we are looking at deer sized game. This will cover anything from Whitetail Deer, Mule Deer, and Blacktail Deer with little difference in required energy when harvesting any of these three deer species.

In general the recommended minimum energy for deer sized game is approximately 1000ft-lbs of energy. This can vary by a small margin depending on shot angles and bullet style though 1000ft-lbs is a good baseline to start from. Also in this case hunters should be reminded that most hunting style bullets require a minimum velocity of about 1800 – 2000FPS.

Looking at the factory loaded and very popular Superformace from Hornady firing a 139gr. GMX bullet hunters can expect up to 3190FPS at the muzzle with a whopping 3140ft-lbs of energy. This bullet and cartridge combination has a maximum effective range for deer sized game out to 750 yards. At this point the bullet has 1837FPS and 1041FT-LBs of energy remaining.

Now taking the larger 162gr. ELD-X in Hornady’s precision hunter ammunition hunters can expect 2940fps at the muzzle and 3109ft-lbs of energy. This bullet holds its lethality out to a staggering 800 yards where its velocity drops down to 1857fps and 1240ft-lbs of energy.

With these two rounds highlighting the abidance in potential options hunters have numerous options when picking their ammunition for their 7mm Rem Mag. With plenty of velocity and energy hunters should now consider their bullets expanding characteristics. Deer size animals do not have a large bone structure like moose or even elk so softer bullets that expand more are a viable option.

Bullets that have a lead core will expand more and transfer more energy then solid copper core bullets. With a healthy amount of both speed and energy your bullets penetration will not be your top concern and rather energy transfer will take that place. Look for Hornady’s ElD-X, Nosler’s AccuBond, and the Game King from Sierra all of these are good choices for large expanding bullets.

Avoid excessive energy in your cartridge setup to curb potential meat damage. Use a ballistic calculator and your expected hunting distance to better understand your bullet selection. Large amounts of excessive energy can lead to the loss of the front half of the animal.

The average distance of hunting shots are under 300 yards so don’t be afraid of using smaller bullets to help preserve meat.

7mm Rem Mag The Basics

The 7mm Rem Mag isn’t known for being overly hard on its operators to handle in terms of recoil. If you’re a larger build and used to shooting Magnum cartridges you will not have any concerns with the 7mm Rem Mag. Although if recoil is a concern for you a muzzle brake can be added to most rifles to help tame recoil.

A muzzle brake is highly recommended for youth hunters looking to grow into a 7mm Rem Mag over the years.

If your local laws allow for the use of a suppressor this will both reduce recoil and lower the decibels when firing.

With the popularity of the 7mm Rem Mag comes options. Like its ammo variety the choices of rifle manufactures that offer the 7mm Rem Mag in their respected platforms is abundant. This is much appreciated by hunters that prefer the feel of particular rifle manufacturers.

With multiple manufacturers also means multiple price points available to hunters looking to either splurge on a new elite setup or just get into the lifestyle of hunting. Price points can very from as low as $700 all the way up to $3000 and even higher depending on your personal flavor. One of my personal choices for a practical price point rifle is the Tikka platform that comes in around the $1100 CAN price point.

Hand-loaders will appreciate the abundance of components available to them.

I always like to point out the ability for a cartridge to go above and beyond its initial requirements. For new hunters getting into the lifestyle of hunting, deer hunting seems to be the most popular and often overlook other game animals. The 7mm Rem Mag is a superb choice for new hunters due to the fact that it has plenty of potential.

If you find yourself with the opportunity to go on an elk hunt or even a moose hunt the 7mm Rem Mag will have you covered! By simply increasing your bullets weight and possibly choosing a deeper penetrating bullet design the 7mm Rem Mag will hold its own against these larger animals.

The best crossbow scope in 2024 is the Hawke 3X32 IR Crossbow Scope.

It does everything right, nothing wrong, and comes in at a more than fair price.

To start with, I made a shortlist. All the best crossbow scopes have excellent feedback from a significant number of online reviewers. Once investigated, I removed some due to negative feedback on other sites. I was left with the following six options:

• NIKW9 Prostaff P3 Crossbow 3×32 Matte BDC 60
• UTG 4X32 1″ Crossbow Scope, Pro 5-Step RGB Reticle, QD Rings
• Hawke 3X32 IR Crossbow Scope
• Hawke Crossbow 1.5-5X32 IR SR Scope with Illuminated Circles, Matte
• Excalibur Tact-Zone Illuminated Scope, 2.5-6x32mm
• TRUGLO Crossbow Scope 4X32 with Rings APG

When you buy a new crossbow, unfortunately, a lot of the built-in scopes often lack quality. It’s good to do some research and budget a little extra for a top crossbow scope.

Maybe you have the best crossbow in the world, but it defeats the point if your scope fails at a particular distance or particular light level.

I’ve done a considerable amount of research into the latest best crossbow scopes. Before we dig into the reviews, I’m going to share all the essential information you need to make the best decision when buying a scope.

Understanding the best crossbow scopes

How do they work?

Not all of the best crossbow scopes will have all of these features, but most will. I’ve summarised the main parts briefly, starting from the back of your scope:

Ocular lens

The ocular lens focuses the light which comes in through the front end of the scope (the objective lens) so that you can focus on it with your eye. Good scopes apply finishes to the ocular lens, which repel water and improve light intake.

Eye piece

This part holds the ocular lens in place.

Diopter adjustment

At the rear of your scope right above the eye-piece is the diopter adjustment. This might be the only real adjustment on a lot of crossbow scopes. It allows you to sharpen your scoped image by getting your reticles clear.

In essence, it compensates for differences between your own two eyes. Lots of beginners don’t even realize they can adjust this!

Power ring

The power ring is the gear that you twist to change the magnification of the target through your sight.

You only find this on variable scopes. If you have a fixed-power scope, you won’t have this. (More on the differences later)

Scope tube

The bridge between the ocular lens and the objective lens, which is one long piece of metal.

The scope tube is where you’ll fix the scope rings or base, to attach the scope to your crossbow.

They come in 1-inch and 30mm tube diameters. 30mm tubes can only be used with 30-mm scope rings and 1-inch with 1-inch.

Objective bell

The objective bell is the part of the scope which increases in size from the scope tube to the objective lens diameter.

Focus lens

In the objective bell there’s a focus lens which helps focus objects in the scope.

Erector tube

The erector tube sits in the objective bell in front of the objective lens. It houses both the magnification lenses and the reticle.

Reticle

The reticle is the part of the sight with markings like crosshairs, a target dot, or chevrons to shoot several distances.

If the reticle sits in front of the magnification lenses, it will also change in size as the magnification is altered on variable scopes. This is generally better as you don’t have to make a manual adjustment.

Objective lens

The objective lens gathers light from around the target you are sighting.

A larger lens means more light comes in, and a more full viewing area through your scope. The objective lens can be quite heavy though, so if it gets too big it can compromise weight and balance. This shouldn’t be an issue for scopes in the best crossbow scopes review below, though.

Cool tip: when you see a scope description, you can tell the objective lens size. For example “a 3×32 scope” means three times magnification with an objective lens of 32mm.

Scope base and scope rings

You attach your scope to the crossbow using a scope base or scope rings.

Types of Scope

Fixed-power scopes

Fixed-power scopes are the opposite of variable scopes, that’s to say you can’t change the level of magnification of your targets.

A good crossbow magnification level is anywhere from 3x to 6x magnification; dependent on the game size and hunting distance.

For example, 3x magnification is great for small game over short to medium distances, like turkey hunting. If you go for any more, you’re going to struggle to find the turkey amongst the foliage!

People will boast about stronger magnification, but it’s likely you won’t need any more than 3x.

Variable scopes

A variable scope allows you to change the magnification as needed. This isn’t without its difficulties though, as you will need to regularly zero in. This means resetting the scope at that magnification every time you change zoom.

Even worse is if you have what’s called a ‘second-focal-plane scope’. In that case, if you change magnification, the reticle won’t change with it. You’d have to sight-in the crossbow again so that your distance markers are correct.

If you use a first-focal-plane scope (typically more expensive), the reticle and the image move together, so the crosshairs will adjust with the magnification, avoiding this problem.

If you can, it’s better to set the scope magnification for your whole hunting session and not change it again. Instead, you can use your crosshairs or dots to shoot varying distances. It’s not comfortable to keep changing on the go.

Speed-adjusted scopes

Some manufacturers have started to include another dial for you to input your bow’s FPS. I liked this feature on the Excalibur Tact-Zone, but it was confusing on the Hawke 1.5-5X32.

What to do with a new crossbow?

Mount it

When you get your new scope, first you’ll want to attach it to the rail assembly on the bow, securing it with scope rings. Be sure that there’s no movement in the scope from recoil when shooting.

You can read about how to mount your scope here. I recommend getting it fixed by a professional if you’re not sure what you’re doing. It’s an important job because you want it to be perfectly aligned, which involves a trial-and-error process to get it perfect.

Sight it in

‘Sighting-in’ is matching the POA (point of aim) with the crossbows point of impact (POI) for a given range.

It can be really tedious the first few times you do it, but it gets easier with practice. It’s an exercise of trial and error aiming and firing at a fixed point until you get it right.

Again, if you’re unsure we recommend you take it to a pro shop, to ensure it matches up over all distances.

Zero it

This is only for adjustable scopes, where you reset the scope to place the middle of the crosshairs at your new “sighted-in” point of aim. You’ll do this every time you change the magnification.

Minutes of Angle (MOA): learning to adjust while shooting

MOA refers to the number of clicks necessary to adjust the scope to account for windage and elevation.

If you have a 1/4-inch MOA, you’ll need four clicks to move the scope an inch over 100 yards.

Ensure you factor in distance though! If you’re only 50 yards away, you’d need double the clicks (8) to adjust the scope correctly.

1/8, 1/4 or 1/2-inch MOAs are appropriate for a crossbow. A lower MOA gives you more precise adjustments but means you’ll have to spin the adjustment gear more to make it.

Cool tip: Scopes have writing on them to let you know the MOA, i.e., “1/2 MOA per click.”

What features do the best crossbow scopes have?

Spending money on a quality scope will buy you a sturdier more durable scope which lasts longer. It will cost you less in the long term. Consider the following features when purchasing your scope:

Magnification

Magnification is how many times bigger you want the target to be through the scope.

Length

Length is measured from the front of the objective lens to the back of the eye-piece. A more extended scope means higher magnification.

It isn’t necessarily the best because of trade-off in weight and profile. It’s more important to have a scope relative to what you’re hunting and the distance at which you’re shooting.

Illumination

Some scopes have an illumination feature: a dial with rear-stat settings for a little dot in green or red.

An illuminated reticle brightens the reticle so that you can better see your crosshairs or other markers. It’s excellent in tricky lighting and helps to improve accuracy.

Is it necessary? No. Is it sometimes helpful? Yes, depending on the situation.

No stray light

Sometimes as light reflects off the metal of a scope, the glare can enter the lens and distract the shooter.

Get a scope with an interior coating to prevent reflection on the metal from external light. Otherwise, it makes it harder to make out the target.

Exit pupil

A measure of the amount of light which reaches your eye through the scope when shooting.

Field of view

Field of view refers to the width of your view when looking down your scope. If you sight-in at 150 yards, you might have a 20-yard wide field of view.

Field of view depends on magnification and focal length of the lenses. More magnification means less field of view.

Center-tube (or scope tube) diameter

The 1-inch tube size is popular in America, and the 30-mm is more prevalent in Europe. There’s a commonly misheld belief that 30-mm tubes let in a little more light, but it does have a thicker wall for better strength and durability.

Configuration Simplicity

Intuitive and straightforward adjustment options for no faff when scoping in. IMPORTANT!

Weatherproof

Is your scope good in all climates? Make sure your scope’s fog proof and waterproof. The distinct advantage is that your lens is clearer for shooting. But you’ll also avoid future repair costs or just giving up and buying another.

Good warranty

Does it have a lifetime warranty? Lots do these days, so find out.

Eye relief

Typically measured in inches, eye relief refers to the distance between the lens and the eye that you sight with. You need sufficient eye relief so that you don’t hit your eye against the scope when you fire.

Realistically, this is more appropriate for firearms due to their higher recoil.

It does make sense to account for it though. If there’s too much or too little eye relief, you might not be able to focus on the target (and have to re-fix your scope!)

Scope accessories

Many of the following come standard with bows. Check yours before you buy:

Scope caps

An additional but worthwhile accessory to protect the lenses on your scopes.

Several types exist, like flip-up caps and elastic caps. They live on the scope and are only taken off to hunt/shoot.

Scope cloths

Take care of lenses with a good scope cloth or lens pen to gently remove smudges.

Scope Rings

Most scopes include rings so that you can mount the scope immediately.

The Best Crossbow Scope Reviews

NIKW9 Prostaff P3 Crossbow 3×32 Review (Matte BDC 60)

Nikon is well known for its optical performance, and this scope is an excellent example of their quality.

The Prostaff P3 is a 3x fixed-magnification scope with a proprietary ‘BDC’ reticle. It’s designed to maximize the range and efficiency of hunting crossbows.

Despite no illumination, there are no reports of difficulty in low light levels. It has anti-reflective compounds on every glass surface, which help to provide bright and vivid images and excellent light transmission. Many reviews point out the quality of its crisp image.

Nikon has tested the BDC 60 reticle extensively, with a variety of bolts, point weights and crossbow speeds. It has aiming points which reach out to as much as 80+ yards.

Reticle changes are made in 1-inch adjustments which make an excellent click. There’s a neat little button to reset the windage and elevation adjustments to 0, so it’s considerably easier to make adjustments on the go.

The all-metal scope has been made of high-quality materials. The main tube is made of one-inch aircraft-grade aluminium as has the quick-focus eye-piece.

One thing of note: according to one review, if you shoot a fast crossbow there’s a chance the yardage markers (point of aim) on the reticle won’t line up precisely with your point of impact.

Pros

• Instantly reset turrets to zero
• Great for the price
• Great light
• Accurate
• Consistent
• Good build quality

Cons

• No illumination
• May fail to sight-in at high FPS

>> Check Price on Amazon <<

UTG 4X32 1-Inch Crossbow Scope Review

The UTG 4×32 has a 4x magnification fixed-power scope with a respectable 27.2-foot field of view and high-quality image thanks to its broadband lens coating.

The UTG has an MOA of a 1/4 inch. There are several reviews of people taking a long time to sight it in, although others had no problems.

The scope is built on a True Strength Platform which uses smart spherical structures to achieve windage/elevation adjustments and strong recoil resistance.

Like the Prostaff P3, this scope also has a reset to 0 button on the windage/elevation adjustments to help sight-in.

The reticle includes five horizontal lines calibrated at 300FPS so that you can quick-aim out to fifty yards. You can also control a red/green dual illumination from a side wheel on the side of the scope. It’s great for hunting in different lighting conditions.

Two things that were liked and commented heavily are how forgiving the eye relief is, and the flip-open lens caps that come with it.

Pros

• Generous field of view
• High-quality image
• Instantly reset turrets to zero
• Forgiving eye relief
• Comes with flip-open lens caps and low profile quick detach ring mounts

Cons

• Some issues sighting-in

>> Check Price on Amazon <<

Hawke 3X32 IR Crossbow Scope Review

The Hawke 3×32 seems to be a remarkably good scope choice for hunters of all abilities.

Unless you hunt at long distances, its 3x fixed-power scope is plenty magnification. The 3x magnification and design gives it an excellent field of view at 33.3 feet.

So many reviews commented on just how crisp and clear the image is with a sharp edge-to-edge focus.

The ballistic reticle has laser-sharp illumination, which can be switched on and off. The fantastic 5-setting rheostat illumination comes in red or green and doesn’t produce that ghosting effect you find with cheaper reticles.

The reticle features illuminated hollow circles instead of crosshairs which I quite like because they don’t cover the intended POI. The circle is supposed to be a 2″ kill zone at the corresponding distance. It also has left-right hairlines representing 12 inches and 24 inches.

The scopes 315 FPS calibration point worried me that high-performance crossbows might struggle to sight-in correctly. Hawke, however, has taken this into account. The new model is calibrated at 340 FPS, and Hawke says this will work with crossbows reaching speeds of as much as 475 FPS.

The optics are multi-coated to protect against fogging and liquids, and there are no reports of this being the case.

The scope even features resettable turrets like the first two, and really can’t do much wrong.

Pros

• Great customer support
• Excellent field of view
• Bright and crisp wide-angle image for edge to edge clarity and sharp focus
• Best crossbow scope for low light
• Weatherproof

Cons

• Doesn’t come with scope rings

Special Mentions

• Best Crossbow Scope for the money

>> Check Price on Amazon <<

Hawke Crossbow 1.5-5X32 IR SR Scope Review

Hawke’s variable scope is also proving to be a massive hit, which speaks volumes for the brand.

The Hawke 1.5-5X32’s precision reticle offers aim points at 10-yard intervals from 20 to 100 yards. It has five crosses – not illuminated circles as they advertise in the name – corresponding to yards 20-60, and postmarks for yards 70-100. Only the IR model has crosses which light-up.

This scope, like the fixed-power version, has excellent feedback for sighting-in. Once you configure the speed selector ring – on which you can input speeds anywhere from 250 to 425 FPS – you will hit all your yard markers accurately.

The speed selector ring, however, is a frustration for several buyers. After all, it’s advertised as a 5x scope, but in reality, you can’t set the zoom level you desire. Instead, you have to input your crossbow FPS, which will automatically adjust to the zoom level necessary.

So technically it is a 5x scope as if you set 425 FPS you will zoom in to 5x. It can be incredibly annoying if you want to set the FPS correctly to your crossbow because you can’t achieve the maximum advertised zoom.

The reticle offers red and green illumination in five levels of brightness (SR model). The one-inch optics are fully multi-coated for high levels of light transmission.

The 1/2-inch MOA is crisp thanks to the no-snag fingertip turrets.

Pros

• Great customer support
• Bright and crisp wide-angle image for edge to edge clarity
• Great accuracy after easy setup
• Solid illumination and sharp focus

Cons

• Not really a 5x scope (see above)
• Doesn’t come with scope rings

>> Check Price on Amazon <<

Excalibur Tact-Zone Illuminated Scope Review (2.5-6x32mm)

The ultra-compact Tact-Zone from Excalibur has a 2.5-6x magnification variable zoom. It comes as standard on the whole Excalibur Matrix series of crossbows.

The scope is adjustable to speeds from 275 DPS to 410 FPS, and unlike the Hawke 1.5-5×32 above, the speed adjustment is independent to the zoom adjustment.

It features a new updated reticle design for tact-zone. The new reticle does an excellent job of lining up bolt POI with POA up to 60 yards out, for any given arrow speed.

The scope features 1/2-click MOA adjustments for sighting-in and a 30mm tube for added strength. It holds up well against the elements, be it rain, fog or knocks from dropping it.

The reticle has red/green rheostat illumination and a multi-coated lens for exceptional clarity. The lenses are also protected by flip-up caps, although numerous buyers decide to replace them citing that they’re a little bit tacky.

Pros

• Crossbow speed adjustment ring for easy configuration
• Weatherproof and shockproof

Cons

• May struggle on high-performance crossbows over 410 FPS
• Cheap lens covers

>> Check Price on Amazon <<

TRUGLO Crossbow Scope 4X32 Review with Rings APG

The TruGlo 4×32 is a fixed-power 4x magnification scope. The old-school reticle – although not illuminated as some people report – is designed for range finding and trajectory compensation.

The fully coated lenses provide brightness, clarity and contrast, and despite not being illuminated, plenty of buyers state just how well it works in low-light levels.

What people like about the scope are the rubber eye-guard and generous 4-inch eye relief. It has a durable leaf spring for windage and elevation adjustments located under screw down caps.

The manufacturer claims that the scope is weatherproof, but I’ve read 5+ reports of the scope fogging up. If you do have issues with it, the customer service at TruGlo doesn’t seem to be great, so it may be better to purchase through Amazon.

All in all, there are more impressive scopes out there, but this one is great for those with reduced budgets. Nonetheless, the scope has garnered a whole heap of really positive reviews from Amazon.

Pros

• Good crossbow scope for the money
• Old-school reticle if that’s what you like
• Great for dawn/dusk hunters

Cons

• May fog up
• Poor customer service

>> Check Price on Amazon <<

Best Crossbow Scopes: Conclusion

My opinion is that the best scope for 2024 is the Hawke 3×32 IR crossbow scope. It’s thanks to its excellent field of view, crisp edge to edge image, reliability in all conditions and solid illumination.

If you’re keen on a variable scope, then you have a toss-up between the Hawke 1.5-5×32 (my choice), and the Excalibur Tact-Zone. Unless your conditions favour it, I don’t believe a variable scope is necessary for crossbow shooting.

Of the two, the Hawke seems a better option for overall quality. That said, some people are put off by the magnification dial issue which controls zoom based on the crossbow FPS. If that’s the case for you, then you should choose the Excalibur Tact-Zone.

Who makes the best crossbow scope?

Based on my research, it looks like Hawke is the best at making consistently good variable and fixed-power crossbow scopes.

So you’re at your favorite local sporting goods store, looking at the deer feeders, and you notice that they’re a little on the pricey side. Not only that, but they’re mostly pretty simple designs. And you think to yourself, “I wonder if I could just make my own and save some money?”. Well, you can!

An effective DIY deer feeder is easy to make, even for the most mechanically challenged. You can make them as simple or as complicated as you want, and with some creativity, you can make one out of stuff you already have lying around, taking up space on your property. Here are five ways you can quickly build your DIY deer feeder that will be higher quality than the store bought ones and a heck of a lot cheaper too.

Most Common Homemade Deer Feeder Designs

• PVC Pipe Gravity Feeders – Quick and easy to make, transport, and set up. You can make them in different sizes to hold more or less feed. And they have the added benefit of being low profile and unobtrusive.
• Buckets & Drums – These can hold larger amounts of feed, so they don’t have to be filled as often and can be made from discarded, easily obtained materials.
• Tripods – A tripod mounted bucket or drum gives you more versatility with placement, and they’re more stable. They can also be equipped with a motorized automatic feeder to drop feed on a schedule or use the simple gravity feed method.
• Troughs – Simple frame construction to hold protein or corn. Instead of spilling onto the ground, the feed fills a trough.

1. Poor Man’s PVC Feeder

This design is just what it says, all the materials can be bought at your local hardware store for $50 or less, and the only tools needed are a drill and a hacksaw.

You pour your corn or whatever feed you’re using into the top of the tube, and gravity keeps it moving downward as it gets eaten.

It has a drain at the bottom to let out any rainwater that gets in to keep the feed from becoming moldy. Deer will have no problem getting their snout into the pipe to retrieve the feed.

Bill Of Materials

• One PVC pipe of the desired length (at least 3’ and up to 10’) and 6” diameter
• Two 6” PVC slip-on end caps
• One 6” PVC Wye (Y) coupler
• Several small eye-bolts (number depending on length)
• One can PVC primer
• One can PVC cement
• Spray paint for camouflage
• Power drill
• Hacksaw

Steps

1. Cut the 6” PVC pipe to the desired length. The longer it is, the less often you’ll have to fill it, but longer ones will be harder to reach to fill.
2. Primer the end of the pipe and one female end of the Wye coupler following the directions for use. Add cement to both pieces and attach them.
3. Drill some holes for drainage in one of the end caps, primer and cement the inside edge, and attach it to the bottom of the Wye coupler.
4. Drill holes along the side of the pipe to attach eye-bolts. These will be used as strapping points to secure it to the tree. Number required depends on length.
5. Take the end cap that will cover the top of the feeder and drill one hole in the center and one in the side, with a corresponding hole in the main pipe. Attach one eye-bolt in the top to use as a handle. The second eye-bolt will attach the lid to the pipe to keep the raccoons from raiding your feeder.

You can mount your new feeder to a tree with bungee cords, ratchet straps, or rope. You can also find pre-made drain caps at the store but make sure the holes are small enough to keep your feed in.

2. 5-Gallon Bucket Deer Feeder

Another easy-to-build and ridiculously affordable feeder. It uses a 5-gallon bucket to hold the feed, with a small hole cut into the bottom.

A wooden bridge is fitted across the inside of the bucket about two inches from the bottom that suspends a length of an all-thread rod through the hole. A large tin can is suspended from the bottom of the rod so the wind or nudging deer can cause the feed to fall from the hole.

The feed is kept in the bucket until the can is moved by a washer slightly larger than the hole suspended on the rod an inch or so below the hole, just enough to keep the feed in the bucket until the rod is moved when a small amount of feed will drop to the ground.

Bill Of Materials

• One 5-gallon bucket with a lid
• One ¼”-20 all-thread rods (threaded along the whole length) about 36” long
• Five ¼” washers and one 2” washer
• Six ¼” nuts
• One 1” x 2” board 16” in length
• One large tin can (or similar item)
• Power drill
• Saw

Steps

1. Cut a 1” wide hole in the bottom of the bucket
2. Cut two 2” long sections off of the board then trim the board to fit across the bottom of the bucket (most 5-gallon buckets are 10.33” across at the bottom)
3. Drill a hole through the middle of the board aligned with the hole in the bucket, large enough to allow the rod to swing slightly, nail or screw 2” pieces to the end of the board as supports, place in bottom of the bucket
4. Place 2” washer on the rod with ¼” washers and nuts on each side, double nuts on the lower side to keep it securely in position on the rod
5. Secure the rod from the wooden bridge through the hole in the bucket, adjust the 2” washer so it’s about 1” below the hole
6. Drill ¼” hole through the side of the can in the middle, attach to end of the rod with nuts and washers

Use a rope to hang your 5-gallon feeder over your spot, adjusted so the deer can reach up and nudge the can for feed. Ensure your 2” washer is placed so the feed can flow, but not too quickly. The sound of the feed plinking on the can will also attract other deer in the area when they get accustomed to it.

3. 55-Gallon Drum Gravity Feeder

This one takes a bit more work to make but it’s very economical to build. If you live a long way from your property or can’t get out there very often, this will hold enough feed to last for a while.

This plan leaves the lid attached to the drum to make sure rainwater stays out. It’s simply a 55-gallon drum mounted a few feet off the ground on a wooden platform and held in place with a ratchet strap.

Four 2” holes are cut around the bottom of the drum and 2” PVC elbows are inserted and cemented in place to channel the feed. Then cheap and readily available 12” drywall mud trays are bolted underneath the channels to hold the feed.

The drum can be filled by removing the plugs on top and using a large funnel. It’s secure and stable and works quite well.

Bill Of Materials

• One watertight 55-gallon plastic drum
• Materials for platform
• Four 2” PVC elbow joints
• Four 12” drywall mud trays
• Eight screws
• PVC cement
• Power drill

Steps

1. Build a platform to hold drum 2’ off the ground securely. You can do this with boards, concrete blocks, or even PVC tubing. Just be sure it can handle the weight and won’t tip over.
2. Cut 2” holes at four points around the bottom of the barrel about 4” up.
3. Insert 2” elbows into holes and cement in place. You can cut off part of the elbow to let the feed enter at a lower angle.
4. Drill holes in corners of drywall mud trays and corresponding holes in the drum to attach the trays underneath the feed channel. Screw trays in place.
5. Attach drum to the platform with a ratchet strap.

You’ll want to use spray paint to camouflage your feeder before you begin. If you have a white plastic drum you can leave a strip unpainted so you can observe the feed level.

4. Tripod Feeder

If you’re looking to build a feeder that’s easy to transport, holds a lot of feed, and automatically distributes feed on a timed schedule, this is the plan for you.

This design uses a metal or plastic drum of whatever size you choose equipped with a motorized automatic feeder such as the type manufactured by American Hunter, Moultrie, and other companies.

Aluminum tubing is used to make a tripod with detachable legs that can be easily taken off for transport and reattached with a quick release pin. The brackets to hold the legs are made from tubing slightly larger than the legs so that they can slide inside and be secured with a pin.

A hole is cut into the bottom of the drum to allow feed into the motorized feeder. A funnel can be fitted to the inside bottom of the drum to ensure that all the feed is used.

Bill Of Materials

• One metal or plastic drum, camo painted
• Aluminum tubing, two different diameters
• Six 1/4” bolts with washers and nuts
• Plastic tubing caps
• Motorized automatic feeder
• Large funnel
• Power drill and bits
• Hacksaw
• Basic hand tools

Steps

1. Cut leg tubing to the desired length. For bracket tubing, cut three 14” lengths.
2. Flatten 4” on one end of bracket tubes and drill two ¼” holes for bolts. Drill another hole 4” from the round end for connecting pin.
3. Cut hole in the bottom of the drum the approximate size of the feeder entry
4. Drill holes in drum and attach brackets with bolts
5. Drill ¼” hole in leg tubes 4” from the end that will slide into the bracket
6. Bolt automatic feeder to bottom of the drum, fit funnel over the hole in the bottom
7. Install tubing caps on end of legs and attach to bracket with a quick-release pin

Remember to put a piece of plywood under leg caps to keep legs from sinking in soft ground.

5. Protein Trough

This simple design can be done in several ways, but this plan is super sturdy and will last for years. It uses a 55-gallon drum cut in half to hold the feed, mounted on a covered platform made with 4” x 4”s and corrugated roofing panels. A little wood construction experience will help, along with access to the appropriate power tools.

Bill Of Materials

• 55-gallon plastic drum with lid
• Three 4” x 4” x 8’ treated beams
• Three 2” x 4” boards
• Three sheets of corrugated roof panels
• ¼” bolts, nuts, and washers or screws

Steps

1. Cut 55-gallon drum in half
2. Construct frame, and two upright posts mounted on beams with a crossbeam at the top and another about 32” above the ground.
3. Build a roof frame on the platform with 2” x 4”s
4. Attach corrugated roofing panels to frame

Make sure the roof covers enough to protect the feed and brace the posts with 2” x 4” sections.

“Now the work begins” is an adage that resonates in my mind each time I recover a deer I’ve arrowed. Rarely have I dropped deer in places I can drive to with my Chevy. More often they fall in hard-to-reach places far from the nearest road. And that, my friend, is “work” no matter how you slice it. Of course, I love venison and I’m not complaining. But I’ve ended my share of successful bowhunts with pins-and-needles back pain, a parched mouth and sore feet. Yes, taking a deer can mean hours of laborious work, especially if you travel to bowhunt and are faced with completing the job solo.

Fortunately, outdoor companies are ramping up their offerings to provide bowhunters like you and me with products that simplify the entire recovery process. Let’s review five of them now.

Hawk Hunting Crawler

In locations where ATVs aren’t allowed, especially on public lands, a quality deer cart is a must-have item. Hawk’s Crawler is one of the market’s finest. 360° Dual Pivoting Axles with large wheels provide the sturdiness to be pulled over obstacles such as logs and rocks. Never Flat Tires are filled with micro-cellular polyurethane foam for reliability in varied terrain. The Crawler’s heavy-duty steel frame boasts a stunning 500-pound weight rating. Now, your deer cart can double to haul gear and firewood to remote camping areas.

MSRP: $149.99

Hawkhunting.com

Viking Solutions SwiveLift

Viking Solutions’ SwiveLift is truly a back-saver. Designed to help individuals load deer into a truck bed using a platform and hand winch, all parts of the SwiveLift incorporate powder-coated steel for the durability your hard-earned dollars deserve. The setup weighs 54 pounds, yet lifts objects up to 300 pounds with minimal user effort. Not only can the SwiveLift load deer, but other bulky objects such as coolers that would typically require another person’s strength and stamina. Once you winch your deer to tailgate height, simply pull it off the platform and into your truck bed. It’s that simple.

MSRP: $169.95

Vikingsl.com

Allen Dual Harness Deer Drag

Dragging is the most basic way to get your deer out of the woods, and economically, the price is right (it’s free).

However, one inexpensive gadget that removes strain from hands and arms is the Dual Harness Deer Drag by Allen. The harness’ waist belt and shoulder straps feature beefy 2-inch web material, and the harness is hunter orange for safety during open firearm seasons. A sternum strap further enhances the harness’ effectiveness. A steel D-Ring connects the harness to the drag rope. The best part: The Dual Harness Deer Drag fits conveniently in your daypack.

MSRP: $10.49

Byallen.com

Trophy Tow All-Terrain Transport Sled

This functional sled is constructed from heavy-duty plastic that simply glides across the ground. The sled can be pulled by hand or with an ATV. It includes heavy-duty ratchets that quickly tighten the sides of the sled around your deer to protect it during transportation.

The Trophy Tow All-Terrain Transport Sled includes a weather-resistant carrying bag with a shoulder strap for storage and transportation to the field.

MSRP: $47.99

Cabelas.com

Koola Buck Anti-Microbial Deer Quarter Bags

Mule deer and western whitetail hunters: packing out your kill is a real possibility. Doing it quickly ensures fresh results, and the proper meat bags will decrease or eliminate possible contaminants from contacting your precious venison.

And in the environments where we handle venison, bacteria abound. Enter Koola Buck Anti-Microbial Deer Quarter Bags. Each package contains four large 8 x 40 stretch bags infused with a proprietary blend of all-natural and tasteless bacterial inhibitors. Koola Buck Game Bags reduce spoilage-causing bacteria by up to eight times more than competing game bags. You worked hard for your shot, now protect your meat for the pack out with Anti-Microbial Deer Quarter Bags from Koola Buck!

MSRP: $24.99

Koolabuck.com

Alaska’s waters offer plenty of opportunity to hook into grayling, lake trout, rainbow trout, and dolly vardens. Depending on when and where you anticipate fishing and for which species, the methods can vary substantially. We’ve compiled some of the basics to get you started in the right direction.

Grayling

This species is often found north of Anchorage, and is abundant in interior Alaska. An aggressive biter, this fish can be found in most interior waters, and are easily caught in lakes and small streams. While these fish never grow very large (20” is huge), they are a blast to catch and very tasty. Grayling can be found in both clear and murky waters, but can become spooky in bright light. Avoid letting your shadow fall on the waters where you fish.

Flies in size 12-16 (black ant, foam beetle, elk-hair caddis, mosquito, gnat, black wooly bugger, prince nymph and a variety of other natural colored flies, both wet and dry). Get a variety pack of split shot.

Small lures size 0-1 (Mepps Black Fury, Vibrax chrome, bright colors for dark days, dark colors for bright days)

Lake Trout

You guessed it, lake trout are found in lakes and are the largest trout here in Alaska. They move based on water temperature, being inshore when the water is cold, and moving to deeper water as the summer progresses. Your best bet to find these giants of the deep is in interior Alaska, with many great opportunities in the Glenallen area and along the Denali highway.

The general rule is that these fish like to eat other fish, so this is how you target them. Use lures/spinners that have fish patterns, or are blue/chrome. Fishing herring (as bait) on the bottom of a lake can also entice these monsters to bite. For flies, try patterns which resemble smolt or leeches (chrome/blue or dark colors).

Rainbow/Dolly Varden

This is by far the two most widespread species in Alaska, and can be found in lakes, rivers, and streams. Different tackle is used based on location and season, and I’ll cover that here.

Lakes – For spinning gear, try small lures size 0-2 (bright colors for dark days, dark colors for bright days). A bobber with bait also works. Use size 8-12 hooks, a bobber just big enough to see, and single eggs (balls o fire, etc) or popcorn shrimp as bait.

For flies, I’ve had my best luck using dark wooly buggers, twitched through the water like leeches. I would also try (black ant, foam beetle, elk-hair caddis, mosquito, gnat, black wooly bugger, prince nymph and a variety of other natural colored flies, both wet and dry). I always keep a couple obnoxious colors because sometimes, the only way to catch them is to tick them off.

Streams/Rivers – If there are no salmon in the water, then use dark flies (black/purple wooly buggers, prince nymphs, etc). Let these flow with the current, twitching them to give them some life. Aim for overhanging branches and in “slow water” (behind bends, big rocks, fallen trees: anything that creates a hole; a slow patch of water).

If there are salmon in the water, you’re best bet is to use beads (to mimic salmon eggs). Pick a variety of colors, keeping in mind that salmon eggs come out bright deep red, and fade into a creamy pink color over time. You will want to change the color of your bead based on how long the eggs have been sitting in water (sometimes, you don’t know until you try). Bead size also makes a different. Fish the beads behind salmon, being careful not to hook the salmon. Keep the bead flowing at the same pace of the current.

Here is a loose guide on bead size (based on which salmon are in the water). In general, its okay to have beads too small, but not too large.

• Kings – 10mm
• Silvers/Reds/Chum – 6-8 mm
• Pinks – 6 mm

If there are salmon carcasses in the water, you will use flesh flies. Just like beads, these start out bright red, and fade into a dirty white as the flesh ages. These are tied just like normal flies, and fished very similar to beads. Feel free to adjust weight amount if you see flesh flowing faster/slower than current. See the attached diagram.