Hunting hogs can be a challenging task, requiring specialized equipment for success. Among the most crucial pieces of gear is the thermal scope, designed to provide a clear view of the target even in low-light conditions.

Thermal scopes work by detecting heat signatures emitted by animals, converting these into a visible image displayed on the scope’s screen. This technology allows hunters to spot hogs from a considerable distance, even when hidden in tall grass or behind obstacles. Apart from improving visibility, thermal scopes also offer advanced features like range finding, multiple reticle options, and image capturing capabilities, enhancing the overall hunting experience.

However, the market for thermal scopes is saturated with numerous models and brands, making the selection process daunting even for seasoned hunters. ATN, a renowned name in the optics industry, offers a range of thermal scopes specifically tailored for hog hunting. The ATN THOR series includes various models, each with its unique set of features, aiming to fulfill the diverse needs of hunters. In this comprehensive review, we’ll explore four series from ATN: THOR 5 XD, THOR 5, THOR 4, and THOR LTV.

Features of Hog Hunting

The unique behavior and habitat of hogs make them a challenging target for any hunter. Unlike other game animals that rely on speed or agility, hogs have a keen sense of smell and hearing, which they utilize to evade predators. These nocturnal creatures have adapted to human activity, becoming increasingly difficult to hunt during daylight hours. As a result, the need for specialized equipment has grown, particularly for those who engage in hog hunting.

The dense, often swampy terrains where hogs are usually found add another layer of complexity to the hunting process. Natural obstacles like tall grass, bushes, and trees can obstruct a clear line of sight, making it difficult to spot and aim at the target. The ability to see through these barriers becomes a significant advantage, and this is where thermal scopes come into play.

Thermal scopes offer a clear advantage by allowing hunters to detect heat signatures from a distance, providing a distinct outline of the animal. This feature becomes increasingly useful in the dark, when traditional optics fall short. Thermal scopes can penetrate fog, smoke, and even light foliage, giving the hunter a clear picture of the field and any potential targets.

Another important consideration is the hog’s natural behavior to travel in groups, known as sounders. When one hog detects danger, it alerts the rest of the group, making it crucial for hunters to accurately identify and target a specific animal without alarming others. Advanced thermal scopes offer zooming capabilities and multiple reticle options that assist in precise targeting, increasing the chances of a successful hunt.

Given these challenges and requirements, choosing the right thermal scope becomes a vital aspect for any serious hog hunter. ATN’s THOR series promises to offer solutions tailored to these specific needs, backed by years of research and technological advancements.

ATN THOR 5 XD Series

The ATN THOR 5 XD Series is a premier line of thermal scopes designed for the demanding requirements of hog hunting. With state-of-the-art technology, this series offers unparalleled performance, ensuring that hunters can operate efficiently in various conditions.

Before diving into the specifics, it’s essential to understand the core features that make this series stand out:

• High-resolution thermal sensor.
• Smart shooting solutions.
• Video recording capabilities.
• Extended battery life.
• Ballistic calculator.

The thermal vision sensor in the THOR 5 XD series provides a crisp and clear image and is also the largest sensor on the US market, ensuring that you never miss your target. The sensor’s high resolution makes it easier to spot hogs even in challenging environments, such as dense forests or swampy areas.

The series comes equipped with smart shooting solutions that simplify the targeting process. With just a few clicks, you can set the range and wind conditions, allowing the scope to adjust the point of impact automatically. This feature significantly enhances accuracy, crucial for a successful thermal rifle scope for hog hunting.

Capturing the action is no longer a hassle, thanks to the built-in video recording feature. Whether it’s for personal keepsakes or sharing your hunting experience, the THOR 5 XD Series makes it possible without additional equipment.

One of the significant concerns for any electronic device is battery life. The THOR 5 XD Series addresses this by offering an extended battery life, ensuring that you never run out of power during crucial moments.

The built-in ballistic calculator takes the guesswork out of long-range shooting. By inputting data such as bullet type, muzzle velocity, and environmental conditions, the scope calculates the perfect trajectory, ensuring a precise shot every time.

The THOR 5 XD Series also offers a range of customization options, including various reticle patterns and color options. These add-ons enhance the user experience, allowing you to tailor the scope to your specific needs.

In terms of durability, the scopes in this series are built to last. Made from high-quality materials, they are both water and shock-resistant, making them suitable for harsh hunting environments.

When it comes to vision and battery, two aspects that often concern hunters, this series excels in both. The high-quality optics ensure excellent vision in various lighting conditions, while the extended battery life minimizes the need for frequent charge, letting you focus on the hunt.

Overall, the ATN THOR 5 XD Series offers a comprehensive package for serious hog hunters, combining advanced technology with user-friendly features. It is an investment that promises to enhance your hunting experience significantly.

ATN THOR 5 Series

The ATN THOR 5 Series is another exceptional offering that caters to the nuanced demands of hog hunting. Designed with both novice and seasoned hunters in mind, this series offers a balance of advanced technology and ease of use. It stands out for its remarkable sensitivity, enabling hunters to detect minute temperature differences between the target and its surroundings. This high sensitivity is particularly useful in Texas, where the landscape can vary dramatically, affecting visibility conditions.

List of key features:

1. High-sensitivity thermal sensor for exceptional image clarity.
2. User-friendly interface for easy navigation and settings adjustments.
3. Smart shooting solutions for automatic targeting based on range and wind conditions.
4. Extended battery life due to energy-efficient design.
5. Robust construction, including water and shock resistance.
6. Video recording capabilities for capturing hunting experiences.

Just like its counterpart, the THOR 5 Series features a high-resolution thermal sensor. The quality of the images is outstanding, making it easier to spot hogs hidden behind obstacles or foliage. The sensor works in real time, providing continuous updates, which is crucial for tracking moving targets.

A significant advantage of the THOR 5 Series is its user-friendly interface. With intuitive controls, hunters can easily navigate through various settings, making adjustments as needed. The scope also includes smart shooting solutions similar to those in the THOR 5 XD Series, allowing for automatic adjustments based on range and wind conditions. These features ensure that the THOR 5 Series serves as an excellent tool for hog hunting, allowing for quick and accurate shots.

Battery life is often a concern when it comes to electronic hunting gear. The THOR 5 Series addresses this issue effectively. The energy-efficient design ensures that the scope can run for extended periods, reducing the frequency of charge and allowing you to focus on the hunt.

Another noteworthy aspect is the series’ robust construction. Crafted from durable materials, the scope is designed to withstand the rigors of outdoor use. The shock-resistant design also adds to its durability, ensuring that the scope remains functional even after accidental drops or impacts.

The THOR 5 Series also offers video recording capabilities, allowing hunters to capture their experiences. This feature is particularly useful for those who wish to analyze their performance post-hunt or share their adventures with others.

ATN THOR 4 Series

The ATN THOR 4 Series offers another layer of sophistication and reliability for those serious about hog hunting. This series is particularly noted for its power efficiency and precision, making it a go-to choice for hunters looking for a blend of performance and durability.

Here are some of the defining features of the ATN THOR 4 Series:

• Advanced thermal sensor for vivid imagery.
• Multiple reticle options for versatile targeting.
• Power-efficient design for prolonged use.
• Integrated ballistic calculator for accurate shots.
• Streamlined user interface for quick adjustments.

The thermal sensor in the THOR 4 Series is highly advanced, providing vivid images that make spotting and tracking hogs easier. The high-quality sensor ensures that you get clear and crisp views, which is particularly useful for thermal optics for hog hunting.

One of the standout features of this series is the multiple reticle options. These allow for more versatile targeting, enabling you to adapt quickly to different hunting situations. Whether you’re dealing with moving targets or varying distances, the flexibility offered by these reticles can be invaluable.

Power efficiency is one of the key attributes of the THOR 4 Series. The scope’s design ensures minimal power consumption, allowing for extended periods of use without requiring frequent battery charges. Accuracy is a critical factor in hunting, and the THOR 4 Series excels in this aspect. The integrated ballistic calculator helps in determining the most accurate shots, taking into account various factors like wind speed, range, and the ballistic coefficient of the bullet being used.

The user interface is straightforward and easy to navigate, enabling quick adjustments to settings as required. Whether it’s switching between different reticle options or adjusting the zoom, the THOR 4 Series allows for swift modifications, ensuring you never miss an opportune moment.

Additional features include a sturdy construction that can withstand harsh conditions. The scopes are water-resistant and shock-resistant, ensuring durability and long-term use.

In summary, the ATN THOR 4 Series brings a suite of advanced features designed to enhance the hog hunting experience. From its sophisticated thermal sensor to its versatile reticle options and power-efficient design, this series provides a well-rounded package for any serious hunter.

ATN THOR LTV Series

The ATN THOR LTV Series is designed for hunters who prioritize simplicity without compromising on essential features. Though not as feature-rich as other models in the THOR lineup, the LTV Series focuses on providing the most crucial functions needed for effective hog hunting. This makes it an excellent choice for those who prefer a more streamlined, user-friendly experience.

Key features of the ATN THOR LTV Series include:

• Compact and lightweight design for easy portability.
• Essential thermal imaging for basic targeting needs.
• Long-lasting battery for extended use.
• Simplified user interface for immediate adjustments.

One of the highlights of the LTV Series is its compact and lightweight design. Unlike some of the heavier scopes in the THOR lineup, the LTV models are easier to carry and handle, making them ideal for long hunting expeditions. The LTV Series offers essential thermal imaging capabilities. While it may not provide the high-resolution imagery seen in more advanced models, it offers sufficient clarity for basic targeting needs, especially when dealing with hogs that are often found in challenging terrains.

When hunting, time is often of the essence. The LTV Series impresses with its quick startup time, ensuring that the scope is ready for use almost immediately upon activation. This feature is particularly useful for spontaneous hunting opportunities. Battery life is a crucial consideration for any thermal scope, and the LTV Series does not disappoint. Its long-lasting battery ensures that you have enough power for extended periods, reducing the need for frequent recharging or battery replacement.

The user interface in the LTV Series is simplified, making it incredibly easy to use. Basic settings and adjustments can be made quickly, allowing you to focus more on the hunt rather than fiddling with complicated menus.

In addition to the above features, the LTV Series also offers durability with its rugged construction. The scopes are built to withstand various environmental conditions, ensuring reliability during your hunting expeditions.

In conclusion, the ATN THOR LTV Series is a solid choice for hunters looking for a straightforward, reliable thermal scope. While it may lack some of the advanced features found in other THOR models, it excels in providing the essentials, making it a practical option for various hunting scenarios.

Conclusion

After a comprehensive review of the ATN THOR series, it’s evident that each model offers a unique set of features tailored to different hunting needs. From the high-end THOR 5 XD Series, known for its advanced thermal sensor and smart shooting solutions, to the simpler yet effective LTV Series, ATN has a scope for every hunter.

The THOR 5 Series stands out as the best thermal scope for hog hunting, providing a harmonious blend of advanced technology and user-friendly features. Its high-resolution thermal sensor, smart shooting solutions, and extended battery life make it a prime choice for those seeking the best in both functionality and ease of use.

While the THOR 5 Series offers an excellent balance of technology and user-friendliness, the THOR 4 Series is notable for its power efficiency and multiple reticle options. The LTV Series, although simpler, doesn’t compromise on essential features, making it ideal for those who prefer straightforward, effective equipment.

Choosing a hog hunting thermal scope should suit your specific needs and preferences. Whether you prioritize advanced optics, extended battery life, or a user-friendly interface, the ATN THOR series offers a range of options to enhance your hog hunting experience. ATN has managed to create a lineup of thermal scopes that cater to a variety of hunting styles and requirements. The brand continues to uphold its reputation for quality and innovation, making it a go-to choice for serious hunters.

Most people’s first time shooting is with a .22 LR firearm.

But what .22 LR ammo do you choose?

There are dozens, even hundreds, of brands and types, so what is the best one?

Is there a best one? As with any other type of ammo, what .22 LR you buy depends on what you want to do with it.

But don’t worry; I’ll walk through my favorite rounds for cheap plinking, hunting, accuracy, and even going subsonic.

Here are the current best options, with the most budget options coming in around 6 cents per round.

Lucky Gunner also has more obscure varieties, and Creedmoor Sports has more competition loads.

Best .22LR Ammo

For Plinking

1. Remington Thunderbolt

Usually, the cheapest rounds…but some guns don’t like them.

Mine have no complaints, but I read enough about them that I would test them out first before taking the plunge and stacking deep.

2. Federal Auto Match

With this one, you get 325 rounds of affordable .22 LR that’s mostly available nowadays. No complaints in my bolts or semi-autos.

3. Federal Champion

I’ve shot the most with Federal Champion (and most of my .22 LR ammo reserve is this brand).

For hunting, the name of the game is to get a quick/clean kill without making too much of the meat inedible.

Usually, this means going with a high-velocity, hollow-point (HP) bullet.

What do you think of Federal Champion? Be sure to rate it below!

For Hunting

4. CCI Stinger

CCI is the gold standard in small game hunting — fast, accurate, and deadly with its copper-plated 32-grain hollow point bullet.

Can’t go wrong with this one, and has enough oomph to cycle semi-autos.

5. CCI Standard Velocity

Again, CCI makes this list — this time in the form of the Standard Velocity.

To be honest, this is one of my favorite all-around loads in terms of price and reliability.

For Suppressed Shooting

6. CCI Subsonic HP

Are you seeing a pattern here? CCI hits our list again with the Subsonic HP variant. This one happens to be my favorite overall subsonic round.

You get the accuracy and reliability of CCI, and it’s not so slow (1,050 feet-per-second) that it can’t run on semi-autos.

7. Aguila Super Colibri

Powder? Who needs powder?

These rounds run off only the primer meaning they are super quiet and super slow (420 feet-per-second).

Downside is…they won’t run in your semi, though.

For Long Range Precision

8. Lapua Center-X

This is generally accepted as the gold standard for long-range .22 LR shooting. If you’re ready to spend some money and get the best, Lapua Center-X is the first you should try.

It won’t be the absolute best for every rifle — but odds are it’s at least in the top three for your rifle.

Center-X is exclusively what I shoot at matches of 100 yards or longer.

9. SK Ammo — Standard Plus, Rifle Match, Long Range Match

Frankly, I have no idea what the difference is between these three. I’ve tested all three, and my results depend on the rifle. But all of my rifles love at least one of them.

SK Rifle Match and Long Range Match are both 1 MOA for me at 100 yards; Standard Plus opens up a little but has a better standard deviation normally.

Pick one or all three and give them a try!

10. Norma TAC-22

I like this one since it works well in my semi-auto guns, like the 10/22 and .22 LR AR clones.

If you’ve got a suppressor or want to be a little quieter…going subsonic is the way to go.

It sounds like a cap gun instead of having the *CLAP* of a faster-than-sound bullet.

Match Your Ammo To Your Use

From plinking to hunting to long-range, we have all of the recommendations.

Broadly speaking .22 LR fits into a few use cases:

• Plinking
• Hunting
• Suppressed
• Long-Range Precision

Plinking is just what it sounds like. It’s learning how to shoot or teaching others. It’s keeping your skills sharp. Or maybe you just want to turn some money into noise and have a good time!

In any of those cases, you want reliable ammo strong enough to cycle semi-auto guns and hopefully cheap.

Hunting might be super- or sub-sonic for use with suppressors. Either way, you want reliable ammo and should be willing to pay a few more pennies for it.

Suppressed is its own category since the ammo is weaker than normal. Sometimes a little weaker, sometimes a lot. You can hunt with it if the critter is small enough and you’re close enough, or you can just have fun with it.

Long-Range Precision is gaining a lot of popularity with NRL22 and NRL22X! We’re going to assume that you want to shoot at least 100 yards with your .22 LR, but 400+ isn’t out of the question, either. You’ll want very consistent ammo that is reliable and sub-sonic. This…won’t come cheap (for .22 LR).

“But what about self-defense!” you might ask. Unfortunately, .22 LR cartridges can’t be relied upon to effectively stop a threat or go off every single time.

Modern .22 LR is decent, but we don’t consider it reliable enough for self-defense — not when other options like 9mm and .45 ACP are out there.

Final Thoughts

So there you have it…our roundup of the best .22 LR for plinking, hunting, accuracy, and even sub-sonic.

As with anything ammo-related, try a box out before you commit to a case or more, as some .22 LR guns are notoriously picky when it comes to ammo.

Did we miss any that you really think belongs here? Let us know! If you’re looking for a new .22 LR, take a look at the 7 Best .22 LR Rifles! And for more calibers, check out Best Places to Buy Ammo Online.

Bird hunting and dog training are full of terminology and words that new hunters need to learn.

To walk the walk, bird hunters need to first learn to talk the talk. Deciphering the various terminology of the pointing dog world can be confusing. Dog training verbiage is not universal. It can vary regionally, and the dogs you are running or the program you are following may have their own verbiage, too.

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When I picked up my first Deutsch Kurzhaar (DK) pup, I was greeted with a long list of required breed tests. I found myself swimming in alphabet soup in short order. I remember being told I had to run my DK in a young dog test called the Derby. When I asked how the testing system worked, the answer was a series of acronyms that ended up sounding like the teacher in Peanuts: “Wha, wha, whawa, wha.” With an overwhelming blank stare and a grin, I knew I had work to do.

Similar to learning a foreign language, there is a lot to learn when it comes to the linguistics behind training hunting dogs. Like the English language, there are many variations of saying the same thing. In this article, I will help provide you with some understanding of some of the more universally accepted terminologies we use in the field.

Bird Dog Field Terminology

Here is a glossary of terms often referred to during a hunt in the field.

• Back Casting – Backcasting is when a dog hunts behind the handler. Dogs are primarily expected to remain in front of its handler.
• Backing – Backing is when another dog stops and visually points to another dog’s point without the aid of scent. The backing dog should stop at first sight and remain in place through the steadiness process.
• Biddability – A biddable dog is ready for learning with a balanced temperament and can learn very quickly.
• Blind Retrieve – A blind retrieve is a retrieve made without the dog visually seeing the game or bumper.
• Blinking – Blinking is when a dog overtly refuses to complete a task. Though most commonly associated with blinking birds, dogs can also blink for other tasks such as retrieving or backing another dog.
• Brace – A brace is hunting multiple dogs together in the field at once.
• Breaking – The act of breaking means coming off or leaving, such as breaking point to locate or capture game. As well as breaking from the blind meaning leaving the blind prior to being sent for the retrieve.
• Breaking Cover – The dog’s willingness to leave easy terrain to search heavier thickets or brambles to locate game.
• Bumper / Dummy – A bumper or retrieving dummies are types of retriever training equipment used to teach retrieving. A bumper comes is many shapes, sizes, weights, and colors. They can be thrown from a string or shot from a launcher. They can mimic the shape and size of real game such as the Dokken retriever training equipment.
• Cooperation – Cooperation is the dogs want to comply and work as a team player with its handler.
• Covert/Cover – It’s the likely areas where game can be found.
• Creeping – Creeping also known as cat walking is the act of slowly walking into birds before or after establishing a point. Dogs that creep often do so to get deeper into the scent cone potentially flushing a wary bird.
• Crittering – Crittering is sometimes used to describe a dog that is hunting “off target” game species such as deer, song birds, skunks, or porcupine.
• Delayed Chase – Delayed chase is when a dog is told to leave a bird and move up ahead though instead, the dog chooses to re-engage the chase.
• Desire – A dog with great desire has the passion and drive to get away from its handler to locate game. It’s the internal drive or fire that fuels all aspects of the hunt from the want to point, search, or desire to retrieve.
• False Pointing / Unproductive Pointing – A false point or unproductive point is when a dog points old scent and doesn’t realize the bird is no longer there.
• Flushing Dog – A flushing dog is characterized by hunting within gun range at all times and will put the bird in the air for close shooting opportunities. It can hunt both on land and in the water.

• Give/Drop/Release – These are commands telling a dog to relinquish the item it’s retrieving item into the hand of its handler.
• Gun shy – A gun-shy dog is so fearful of the sound of a gunshot that it paralyzes them in fear and can no longer be hunted at that time, or ever again depending on the severity.
• Gun-sensitive – A gun-sensitive dog can recover from its fear of the shot and continues to hunt.
• Hacking – Hacking is when a handler over-commands their dog to maintain control
• Honoring – Honoring is the act of showing interest yet not interfering with another dog’s work be it pointing or retrieving.
• Hold – Hold is a command telling a dog not to drop game or retrieving dummy/bumper.
• Long Nose – Describes a dog’s ability to scent birds at a great distance.
• Making Game – Making game describes when a dog is working scent to locate a bird.
• Marker Words – Words used to identify good and bad behaviors. Yes is a word commonly used to identify behavior we want to see more of and Bad or negative tone or noise to mark behaviors we want to see less of. The word No is commonly used however it’s not a good marker word as it sounds too much like whoa.
• Mouthing Birds – The unsavory act of playing with, breaking bones, and putting holes in the meat potentially making game unfit for the table.
• Marking -To mark is when the dog makes a visual connection to a bird or bumper that is in the air as well as on land or in the water.
• Nose Work – Describes a dog’s ability to use scent to locate game.
• Obedience – Obedience is the dog’s ability to quickly follow commands without hesitation.
• Passive Disobedient – A passive disobedient dog uses submissive acts such as cowering and rolling over as a way to avoid training pressure.
• Parading – Parading refers to the selfish act of swinging out and/or past the handler before returning to its handler for the finished retrieve.
• Pointing – Pointing is defined as an intense, convincing, unmistakable, and in the end productive stationary positioning of a dog in the presence of game.
• Poison Bird – A retrieving exercise where a handler asks a dog to ignore a marked “poison” bird, then requires the dog to follow a separate set of retrieving tasks.
• Popping – When asked to search or retrieve and the dog hesitates to require additional commands to comply often associated with trust issues. Often seen at the release for a retrieve and just before the finish of a retrieve.
• Productive – Describes a dog that finds many birds in its search.
• Purpose – The desirable trait of showing a purpose to find game in the dog’s search. Alternatively, a dog lacking in purpose runs the field as if being taken on its daily walk.
• Pushing out / Nosing out the bird – The act of using its nose to push up the bird into flight. Often seen in the early steadiness work of developmental dogs or dogs that know they are not allowed to catch the bird.
• Quartering – Quartering is a windshield wiper-type pattern out in front of a dog’s handler maximizing the potential of finding game by leaving little area untouched by the dog.
• Recall – Recall is the trained finished position of a dog that is asked to come to you. It can be in your general vicinity, at the immediate front, or directly to the handler’s side. Preferably, the dog would be at the non-gun side so as to not be under the gun.
• Regrip – The act of putting the bird down (without the mouth leaving the bird) so that the dog can more easily return the bird to its handler. It’s generally accepted that a dog can put down a bird to get a better grip as long as it’s not playing with the bird.
• Relocate – The act of a dog’s ability to relocate running birds or short-flighted birds to a re-establishing point, providing another opportunity to kill the bird.
• Roading or Riding In On Birds – When a dog locates the scent of a bird and encroaches upon it in an attempt to get as close as possible.
• Self-Hunting – Dogs that are self-hunters will be selfish in their hunting style. This includes trying to catch birds on their own, refusing to listen to commands, and running for the hills. These types of dogs are of little use for the on-foot hunter.
• Self Release – The dog releases from its position prior to being commanded to do so.
• Soft – Soft is a description given to a dog that struggles to handle light training pressures and becomes fearful and submissive.
• Started Dog – A developmental dog that has begun its steadiness process and has an obedience foundation under it.
• Staunching Up Your Dog – Staunching up your dog is the act of supporting a pointing dog by stroking its tail, back, and shoulders to send a message of encouragement and teamwork between the dog and its handler.
• Steady – A dog can be steady, staunch, or broke, meaning it will remain frozen in place until commanded to move. No matter the number of shots that go off, or the direction the bird flies, the dog’s feet remain planted on the ground.
• Stealing A Point – Stealing a point is when a dog points ahead of another dog already established on point to compete for the bird.
• Stop to Flush – When a dog stops when a target game bird flies.
• Taking A Line – Taking a line is asking the dog to run a straight line towards an undisclosed objective until commanded to stop or until reaching its retrieving objective.
• Takeout – A dog that chooses to attempt to capture the game on its own is ripping birds, pushing them out, nosing them up, self-released, or taking the bird out.
• Trash Breaking – Originating from training your dog to leave trash alone in your home, trash breaking describes the training involved to keep a dog from chasing off game species such as deer, porcupine, skunks, or snakes.
• Underfoot / Boot Licking – Underfoot or bootlicking is the act of hunting so tight to the handler that it is of little to use as a productive hunting companion.
• Upland Hunting – Upland hunting is an American term describing the hunting of various game birds such as grouse, quail, woodcock, and pheasants.
• Versatile Hunting Dog – A versatile hunting dog is a dog that can hunt many game species both on land and in water.
• Wild Flush – A wild flush is when a bird takes flight when a dog approaches the bird without an opportunity to acknowledge the scent of the bird.
• Zones of Fire – Zones of fire are used when multiple hunters gather around a pointing dog. Each gunner restricts their shooting to their zone of fire for safety reasons.

Bird Dog Field Commands

Each handler will need their own set of field commands. They are highly customizable and can be individually specific to each handler. Commands need to be easily understood by the dog; they’re usually either one or two words. It’s important to only use commands when needed and keep the list to only essential commands.

READ: How to Correctly Command Your Dog

Here are some commonly used field commands:

• Back – The command back means to turn and take a straight line 180 degrees away from you.
• Come/Here – This is the recall command from a stationary handler asking a dog to come to you and to finish at a specific place usually to your front or side. The come or here whistle command is traditionally two quick and short blasts or multiple short blasts in succession from a pea-less end of a two tone whistle. However, many prefer a single tone whistles for all commands.
• Come Around – Come around is a command given to a dog as you are moving. It commands the dog to check back or check in with its handler with the requirement to finish.
• Down – Down is a command to lay down and not to move. It has many hunting and home-living applications.
• Fetch – Fetch is the release command given to go and retrieve a marked retrieve of a bumper or game.
• Heel – The heel command tells the dog to come with you at your side. The dog’s front feet align with yours and remain close to your side, no further than a body width from you. The dog should also not touch your leg.
• Kennel / Crate – The command given for the dog to go into its crate. No matter if it’s in your truck, backyard, or a kennel in your home, a dog should easily go to its crate on command.
• Leave It – Leave it is another command with many applications. Leave the skunk, porcupine, grass, or feces alone, and don’t go back.
• Mark – The mark command tells a dog to look ahead for a visual cue to assist in its retrieve.
• Over – Over is a retrieving command asking a dog to take a 90-degree line right or left and remain on that line until the retrieving item is either found or another command is given.
• Place – Place is a command telling the dog to go sit or stand at a location commonly identified by a blind mat or place board.
• Turn Commands – Some handlers like to use a turn command in the field to control their dog’s search pattern. This can be one quick blast with a change of direction from the handler or a hand signal pointing in the direction for the dog to follow.
• Up Front – Commands the dog to move ahead of you in its search.
• Release Commands – A release command tells a dog that its work is done and it is free to make its own choices. Ideally, it’s a command not commonly used in normal conversation. Free, break, or release are common examples of a release command. However, using the word “okay” as a release command is a mistake many new handlers make as it’s often used in conversation, resulting in the inadvertent release of the dog.
• Sit – The sit command asks a dog to plant its hind end on the ground.
• Stay – The stay command lets the dog know you will be moving away from it and it must remain in place.
• Whoa – Whoa is the command to stop or sit and not to move. Commonly, it’s one long blast of the pea side of a two-tone whistle. That being said, handlers successfully use all kinds of whistles.

It’s important to follow a consistent set of commands from early on in your dog’s development. Oftentimes, handlers will attempt to have more of a dialogue in the field which tends to confuse the dog. Your dog studies you incredibly hard each and every day to become masterful at following your commands. We can encourage clarity by doing our part in keeping to the script. In doing so, you will find a far more responsive dog who accurately follows each and every command.

Training and Troubleshooting the Recall Command with Dogs

The Importance of Training Steadiness in Bird Dogs

How to Correctly Command Your Dog

Thinking About Dog Commands to Avoid Confusion in Training

Phylum: Basidiomycota – Class: Agaricomycetes – Order: Agaricales – Family: Marasmiaceae

Distribution – Taxonomic History – Etymology – Identification – Toxicity – Reference Sources

Jack o’ Lantern is a striking, bright orange mushroom that usually grows in dense tufts from the decaying underground roots of deciduous trees or from dead stumps and, less commonly fallen branches. It’s dual claim to fame is that it is a poisonous mushroom whose gills are (weakly!) bioluminescent. (A few gilled mushrooms and several other kinds of fungi are known to emit light. In a very dark environment, when your eyes have had time to adjust, the gills of Jack o’ Lantern can sometimes be seen glowing a ghostly green.)

Pictures on this page were taken in Pennsylvania by Dan Moore, with whose permission they are shown.

Distribution

In Britain this is a very rare species, and according to the British Mycological Society’s Checklist of Fungi of the British Isles only about 20 official records have been authenticated, all in southeast England. (The conservation status of Omphalotus illudens is Near Threatened on the 2006 Red Data List authored by Shelly Evans et al.) This species is also found in many parts of central and southern mainland Europe and in of North America, where according to mushroom expert Michael Kuo this species is common east of the Rocky Mountains.

Taxonomic history

This saprobic mushroom was described in 1822 by American botanist-mycologist Lewis David von Schweinitz (1780 – 1834), who gave it the binomial scientific name Agaricus illudens. (Most gilled fungi were initially placed in a giant Agaricus genus, now redistributed to many other genera.) The currently accepted scientific name Omphalotus illudens dates from a 1979 publication in Sydowia 8: 106 by mycologists Andreas Bresinsky (born 1935) and Helmut Besl, both of Regensburg University, Germany.

In Britain this mushroom has been incorrectly referred to as Omphalotus olearius, but that name belongs to a closely-related species that has not been confirmed as occurring in Britain. Valid synonyms of Omphalotus illudens include Agaricus illudens Schwein., and Clitocybe illudens (Schwein.) Sacc.

Etymology

The genus name Omphalotus means umbilicate (in the form of a navel), and refers to the central depression in mature caps, as seen in the picture above, while the specific epithet illudens means ‘deceiving’. Whether the latter is a reference to the fact that many people have been deceived into eating these toxic toadstools in the mistaken belief that they are Chanterelles remains unclear. (Omphalotus illudens is more easily confused with the deceptively similar Omphalotus olearius, which occurs nearly always with olive trees in southern Europe.)

Toxicity

Jack o’ Lantern and other members of the genus Omphalotus are seriously poisonous toadstools that contain the toxin muscarine; when eaten they cause gastric upsets that can last for several days. Poisoning by this species is not usually fatal, but great care must be taken when gathering edible orange-coloured mushrooms such as Chanterelles to avoid accidentally including Jack o’ Lantern. (Even more dangerous is the superficially similar Cortinarius rubellus, which has been responsible for many deaths.)

Identification guide

Cap

7 to 20cm across; initially convex with an inrolled margin, flattening and eventually developing an upturned wavy margin; smooth; bright orange to yellowish orange.

Gills

Decurrent; non-forking; colour as cap.

Stem

5 to 20cm long and 1 to 2cm diameter, smooth, tapering towards the base; yellowish orange, darkening towards the base.

Spores

Ellipsoidal to globose, smooth, 3.5-5 x 3.5-5µm.

Spore print

Creamy white.

Odour/taste

Odour quite strong but pleasant; taste not distinctive.

Habitat & Ecological role

Saprobic, on buried decaying hardwood roots, especially oaks and Sweet Chestnut, often in lawns and park grassland near to trees; also occasionally on hardwood stumps.

Season

July to October in Britain; through to late November in parts of North America

Similar species

Hygrophoropsis aurantiaca has forked gills and does not form caespitose clusters.

Reference Sources

Fascinated by Fungi, 2nd Edition, Pat O’Reilly 2016, reprinted by Coch-y-bonddu Books in 2022.

Dictionary of the Fungi; Paul M. Kirk, Paul F. Cannon, David W. Minter and J. A. Stalpers; CABI, 2008

Taxonomic history and synonym information on these pages is drawn from many sources but in particular from the British Mycological Society’s GB Checklist of Fungi.

Acknowledgements

This page includes pictures kindly contributed by Dan Moore and Nigel Kent.

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What’s the difference between first focal plane vs second focal plane?

A first focal plane reticle enlarges and shrinks as you adjust the magnification while the second focal plane remains the same size.

Why does that matter and which focal plane scope should you choose?

By the end of this article, you’ll fully understand both types of focal planes so you can choose the best rifle scope for your needs.

Let’s get started!

What is the First Focal Plane?

There are two locations where a reticle can be installed within a rifle scope: the first focal plane (FFP) or the second focal plane (SFP).

With a first focal plane scope, the reticle is physically placed on the “front” of the erector tube assembly and magnification lenses. The first focal plane is furthest from your eye when looking down the sight.

How does that make a difference?

With a First Focal Plane scope, the size of the reticle will appear to grow or shrink as the scope’s magnification is increased or decreased, respectively.

Now that you’ve got the basics, let’s talk about the pros and cons…

First Focal Plane: Pros and Cons

With the first focal plane optics, the reticle size is going to scale up or down with your magnification adjustments.

This means your trajectory markings, or holdover values, are going to remain accurate regardless of what magnification setting you’re on. This is great news if you hate doing math!

But, it comes at a cost…Literally.

The price is often higher by virtue of its more complicated construction. A first focal plane reticle is also typically associated with higher-end scopes.

With first focal plane scopes, the reticle will look small and thin with less power while the reticle will be thicker at higher power.

It can be easy to lose those thin reticle lines, especially against dark backgrounds. Although, some of the best Leupold riflescopes have illuminated reticles for better visibility.

Also, the reticle can cover too much target at the highest setting. If this is a dealbreaker to you, that’s where Second Focal Plane comes into play…

What is the Second Focal Plane?

The most common design is SFP, or a Second Focal Plane scope. It’s also referred to as Rear Focal Plane.

With a second focal plane scope, the reticle is placed behind the magnification lenses on the erector tube assembly.

The second focal plane scope is closer to your eye. Therefore, the reticle stays the same size at any magnification range.

Now, let’s talk about the pros and cons of this…

Second Focal Plane: Pros and Cons

Its lightweight, great resolution, and durability against heavy cartridges make it a popular choice among hunters and law enforcement.

With the second focal plane, your units of measure per each hash mark (MOA or MRAD) represent the same value regardless of your magnification setting.

However, the spacing for holdover in the reticle is only correct at the highest magnification setting. So, it’s not always reliable for variable long-range shooting.

For example:

Let’s look at the Viper HST 4-16×44. This is a second focal plane scope with a magnification range of 4-16x. The Viper HST has hash marks representing 1 MOA but this is only true at its full magnification: 16x.

Of course, you can always do the math in between. But it becomes complicated and confusing and we all know that’s no bueno.

Second focal plane scopes are more commonly seen in the average riflescope and they’re easier to manufacture. That’s why they’re typically less expensive.

First Focal Plane vs. Second Focal Plane for close-range shooting

A second focal plane scope is more suited for close-range hunting and defensive shooting.

Why?

Because you have a strong and easy-to-see reticle even at the lowest magnification. With low-powered optics, like 1-4X optics, this is a highly undervalued feature.

When it comes to a First Focal Plane scope, you can easily lose sight of your marks at low power. This can be a hassle when you need to make adjustments for the wind or distance— especially for older eyes.

Since you’d have to zoom out to get the rest of the marks in the scope’s view, your target shrinks relative to your view. If you’re hunting small game, this can be an inconvenience.

First Focal Plane vs. Second Focal Plane for long-range shooting

First focal plane scopes are best for competitive and long-range precision shooting.

The hash marks represent the same value across all magnification levels. It allows you to use and trust those holdovers at any given point in your magnification.

This is an advantage for spotting impacts and misses for corrections. It’s also very helpful if you need rapid and precise follow-up shots.

Hitting something at longer ranges means getting as much precision as possible. With a second focal plane scope, making those fractional MOA adjustments becomes far more difficult.

Conclusion

The truth is— it’s a matter of preference and intended use. There is no “better” between the two focal planes.

Higher magnification ranges are better in a first focal plane scope. Lower magnification is fine for second focal plane scopes.

If you’re into precision shooting, especially in matches, and you don’t mind the cost: a first focal plane riflescope is great to have.

If you won’t be taking many shots where you need to “hold” for windage or elevation, a second focal plane scope is more than enough. Plus, it won’t necessarily break the bank.

There are other things you need to consider before buying an optic— like choosing the best quick detach scope mounts. At least when it comes to a SFP scope vs a FFP scope, you won’t be scratching your head anymore.

Since we’re on the topic of upgrades, my AR-15 A2 front sight removal guide is up. Go check it out!

The designated marksman rifle is becoming increasingly popular in recent years.

The United States is purchasing more of them through the Army’s Compact Semi-Automatic Sniper System (CSASS) program. Also, in a recent reform of infantry equipment, the British Army announced that it would be ditching its version of the M249 SAW, the L110 Minimi, and buying more L129A1 designated marksman rifles.

What rifles could be considered the best for this role?

1. Knight’s Armament Company M110

While the M110 was originally procured as a semi-automatic replacement for the M24 sniper rifle by the U.S. Army, it has been used successfully in the designated marksman role as well. In USMC service, it replaced the M39 EMR and M14 DMR as a designated marksman rifle, both variants of the original M14. In Army service, it replaced various versions of the M14 EBR.

Based on one of Eugene Stoner’s last designs when he worked for Knight’s Armament Company (KAC), the SR-25. The SR-25 (Stoner Rifle 25) is an update of the original AR-10 updated with elements of the AR-15, hence the “25” in the name is based on adding the 10 and 15.

At the time of adoption, the M110 featured advanced ergonomics for an AR rifle. It had an ambidextrous bolt catch and safety for ease of off-hand manipulation and faster reloads.

While the M110 is said to be on the chopping block to be replaced by the new H&K CSASS, U.S. Special Operation Command’s recent adoption of the 6.5 Creedmoor as a long distance round may extend the service of the M110. Versions of the M110 chambered in 6.5 Creedmoor were tested as SOCOM’s next DMR/sniper rifle in March 2018.

2. H&K SDM-R (M110A1 CSASS)

While the M110 was a successful program, the U.S. Army wanted a smaller and lighter version to be easier to carry and fit in with squad more. The procurement of a M110 replacement was run under the moniker of M110A1 Compact Semi Automatic Sniper System (CSASS). While KAC submitted a shortened version of the M110, the H&K G28 (a variant of the HK417) won the contract.

While the original M110 was used in both the designated marksman and sniper roles, the Army decided to split the CSASS program into two different rifles, the CSASS meant for snipers and the SDM-R meant for designated marksmen.

The difference between the CSASS and the SDM-R is in the type of ammunition they are meant to use and the scopes mounted on the rifle. The CSASS mounts a 3-20x Schmidt and Bender optic and is optimized for M118LR sniper ammunition. The SDM-R mounts a 1-6x Sig Tango Low Power Variable Optic (LPVO) and is optimized for the use of standard M80A1 ammunition. The 1-6 Sig Tango features an integrated bullet-drop compensating reticle that allows for faster, albeit less precise shots, as the scope isn’t meant to be “dialed” in like the more powerful Schmidt and Bender optic.

3. SVD

While old and obsolete compared to most other rifles on this list, the Soviet SVD can be considered the original designated marksman rifle. While the name includes “снайперская винтовка,” which literally means “sniper rifle,” the Soviet conception of sniping is far closer to the Western designated marksman than the Western sniper.

The SVD has proven itself to be reliable, rugged, and accurate since its adoption in the 1960s. The PSO-1 scope was the best designated marksman scope in the world when adopted, featuring a ballistically matched elevation adjustment out to one thousand kilometers, and a simple windage adjustment. In contrast, most western scopes were set to a fixed zero at the time. It also featured an advanced infrared light detector, although this feature began to be of dubious utility as the West phased out infrared spotlights on their night vision equipment.

The SVD continues to see use in many countries around the world today.

4. L129A1

Like the M110, the L129A1 is a variant of the AR-10 meant for use as a designated marksman rifle. However, the design features custom upper and lower receivers made by Lewis Machine and Tool (LMT). During British trials for a designated marksman rifle, the L129 beat out the FN SCAR, other AR-10 offerings (albeit, not one from KAC) and the HK417.

The L129A1 proved wildly popular with British troops in Iraq and Afghanistan, being one of the highest rated weapons used by troops. It’s one of the only Urgent Operational Request (UOR) weapons from Iraq and Afghanistan that has outlived its temporary nature and has gone onto be an integral part of the British rifle squad.

5. FN SCAR

The FN SCAR has also seen significant use in designated marksman roles across various militaries. While FN offers specialized sniper variants of the SCAR, the common standard length SCAR has found to be suitable to performing designated marksman roles.

In American service, only SOCOM uses the SCAR in a designated marksman-type role. In SOCOM usage, the SCAR is usually topped with a 1x/6x or 1x/4x ELCAN optic, which feature bullet drop compensating reticles.

Like the M110, the SCAR was tested in 6.5 Creedmoor as a potential candidate to become SOCOM’s next semi-automatic sniper/designated marksman rifle.

Charlie Gao studied Political and Computer Science at Grinnell College and is a frequent commentator on defense and national security issues.

Image: Wikimedia Commons

The John Breen Buck, shot in northern Minnesota in 1918, is considered by many whitetail experts to be the greatest typical ever, despite the fact that at 202 net B&C points he’s several notches down the list from No. 1. This isn’t an attempt to take anything away from the incredible trophies that outscore him, but few other typicals can approach this buck’s “shock value.”

Back in 1903, John took a job as a store clerk in the northern Minnesota town of Bemidji. At that time, a vast area of logged-over woods lay between there and the Canadian border 100 miles to the north. Transportation in the region was difficult, and the use of a horse and buggy was still common. From Bemidji, a railroad ran northeastward all the way to the border town of International Falls. Some 30 miles from Bemidji, the tracks went through the small town of Funkley in Beltrami County. And, that’s where whitetail history was made.

“People who lived north of Bemidji liked to catch the train and ride it into town to do their shopping,” said Ray, John’s youngest son. “In those days, you could flag the train down anywhere along its rout and ride it for two cents a mile. For a lot of people, it was a real treat.

“One of Dad’s customers, Knute Week, lived up near Funkley, at a flagstop place known as Hopt. He would come into Bemidji every so often to do his shopping. Week had access to some good deer hunting land up near Funkley, and he invited Dad to go up and hunt with him,” Ray recalled.

One cold day in November 1918, while two of his sons were overseas fighting in World War I, John grabbed his rifle and gear and hopped aboard the train for Funkley. When he returned home a day or two later, he had with him a deer so large that even back then it cre­ated quite a stir.

“I still can remember when he brought it home,” said Ray, who was 12 at the time. “He had quite a time getting it back to the house. He had to bring it down to Bemidji by train; then he had to get a horse and wagon to transport it from the depot to our house. The story that I always heard was that he was on his stand with his .30/30 rifle when a bunch of deer came by. Several does were being chased by a buck. He raised his rifle and started to shoot at the buck. All of a sudden, he saw this great rack of horns coming through the woods, so he took aim and shot this big buck instead.

“When he got the buck home, everybody came by to see it. A lot of people made a big fuss over it. The rack was so big that even in those days everybody knew that it was something special. The rack was so wide that we had a hard time getting it through the front door of the house.

“Dad knew his buck was really unusual,” Ray added, “and he was awfully proud of it. After much deliberation, he decided to have it mounted. He sent the antlers over to a taxidermist in Duluth—a man named Story. Mr. Story took one look at those antlers and offered him $50 cash for them. Now, $50 was a lot of money back in those days, probably equal to about half a month’s wages. Dad turned him down flat. That deer meant too much to him.

“It seemed like we ate on that old buck for weeks,” Ray added, “and he was one tough old boy. The deer was thin and gaunt when Dad brought him home, despite the size of his antlers. He was a big-bodied deer, and I remember people saying that he weighed well over 200 pounds. Dad tried to give away some of the meat, but it was so tough that nobody wanted it.”

John died in 1947 at the age of 81. Several years later, B&C introduced its new scoring system, and at the urging of friends, the family decided to have the head officially measured. With an unprecedented net typical score of 202 points, the Breen Buck immediately became the world record typical, even though he suffered heavy deductions for non-typical points. The Breen Buck held the record until 1964, when the James Jordan Buck was recognized as a new No. 1 typical.

During the late 1960s, an antler col­lector from the East Coast wrote the Breen family and asked if they wanted to sell the rack.

“His name was Dr. Chuck Arnold, a dentist in Boston,” Ray recalled. “He wasn’t sure whether we spoke English or not, so he wrote to us in both French and English. He said he collected antlers, and he offered us $1,000 for the rack. After talking it over, we decided not to take his offer because we didn’t want the antlers to leave northern Minnesota. After all, Dad’s trophy was Minnesota’s largest typical whitetail of all time (a position the deer still holds today), and we felt it should remain in the state. However, by this time, the old mount was beginning to show its age. For a while, we let it hang in a local store, but most of the time, it hung in our house.

“We talked to sev­eral different museums about possi­bly taking the trophy, but at the time, no one seemed to have much interest in it,” Ray added. “Then, in 1970, Dr. Arnold wrote to us again. This time, he offered us $1,500 for the antlers. He promised us that he would take good care of the trophy and that he would see to it that it got the kind of recognition it deserved. We talked it over and decided to take his offer.”

Dr. Arnold did indeed take good care of the buck . . . and avid whitetail hunters everywhere are glad of it.

The exceptional fact about the Breen buck is that its gross typical frame scored 215 0/8. Six small abnormal points kept this buck from being the world record. Without those points the buck would have had a net score of approximately 210.

The main beams measure 31 2/8″ and 31″ in length, with 6″ bases. The 26 7/8″-wide rack has outstanding tine length and is truly a masterpiece of nature. When compared side by side with similar scoring giants, any hunter would pick this buck as number one!

Let’s Face It, in Most Cases Those Big Brown Trout in Your Local River Aren’t Falling Victim To a Size 10 Woolly Bugger or a 16 Prince Nymph

To be honest, you’re probably unaware of what lies beneath the surface tucked against a log jam or wedged under that giant boulder mid-river that you’ve fished countless times. In most cases in my night fishing experience, there’s almost always a much bigger fish that shows itself at night than any other previous fish you’ve might have seen during the daylight hours.

The majority of the largest trout I have ever seen were at night in less than 24” of water. Some of the most dominant predators on the planet feed at night… and brown trout are no different.

Before we go further into tips, tactics, and tackle, I’d like to preface that night fishing obviously has its additional challenges and even dangers. Safety is by far the utmost importance when fishing, especially night fishing. Understanding every inch of the river you plan on night fishing is extremely important. Knowing every boulder, drop off/ledge, and casting obstruction can prevent you from going for an unexpected swim, broken rod, or even a hook to the face (speaking from experience). Always wear eye protection (clear or light illuminating lenses), two headlamps (you’ll drop one in the river), and try to take a fishing buddy with you just for peace of mind.

Where I live in Pennsylvania as well as many places in the country, night fishing is more of a seasonal approach. By all means, you can night fish every month of the year and find some success, but there is definitely a “prime time” to be on the water. Typically, I personally begin my night fishing season during the “post hatch” season. After the majority of the caddis and mayflies hatch in May, and the water becomes skinny and shallow, this is when I find brown trout to be starved and more eager to eat larger meals.

This Will Change the Way You Fly Fish Pressured Waters

Night fishing in May, June, and even early July definitely produces plenty of fish, but not THE fish we’re all looking for. Once August rolls around and water temps begin to drop into safe fishing temperatures, that’s when you need to fish until the wheels fall off. Sleep becomes a thing of the past and coffee becomes your best friend. Your best shot at consistently catching brown trout 20”+ and even 24”+ is between August and October.

The worst conditions for daytime fishing are your best conditions for night fishing. Low and clear water is by far the best water conditions to target big brown trout at night. Dominant brown trout adapt and hide so well during these conditions during the daytime which make them almost impossible to target. Once the sun begins to fade, the fish will migrate out of structure and move into feeding areas for the night.

Swing It! Spey Streamer Fly Fishing Tips

A mistake anglers often make is fishing the same deep hole they typically would fish during daytime. Brown trout will move into shallow sandy tail-outs, or push into the head of a run where the water might be less than 24” in depth. The inside seam of a deep pool also offers a great ambush point for a large brown trout.

Tackle used when night fishing is very similar to fishing big streamers. Any 6wt, 7wt, or 8wt will suffice. On larger rivers, a trout spey or switch rod works great for swinging streamers or skating rodent patterns across the surface. A floating fly line is the most versatile line for night fishing in my opinion. You can fish surface flies, “pushers” that sit barely subsurface in the surface film, or even a streamer if you want to swing a baitfish into deeper pools. Your leader is extremely important when night fishing as well. Typically when fishing a surface style fly, keeping the leader short and stout is critical. Two feet of 20lb tippet to a blood knot, followed by three feet of 15lb tippet is typical when fishing surface style flies. Your leader needs to be strong and abrasion resistant. It’s not “if,” it’s “when” you toss your flies into a tree.

I have personally witnessed brown trout eat mice, rats, bats, baby birds, and even water snakes. A large brown trout over 24” is not much different than a musky. Don’t be afraid to think outside the box when night fishing. The biggest brown trout I’ve hooked at night was on a 6” rat pattern. The most important aspect of fly design for night fishing in my opinion is how much vibration, water displacement, or surface disruption you can create while not sacrificing your hook gap. Thin, but wide profile deer or foam body mouse flies work great. If using streamers, a pusher style fly that rides high in the water column seems to be extremely effective as well.

Tied with a Surface Seducer Double Barrel Popper & Slider Body.

How to fish you fly is totally dependent upon on moon phases, cloud coverage/ambient light, and speed of the current. A mouse is not going to swim upstream against the current.

The two most effective retrieves are:

• Down and across just like you would swing a wet fly
• Casting upstream and working the fly back to you

If the current is a classic soft dry fly drift, I almost always work the fly down and across. Your rod tip height as well as your casting angle will dictate the speed of the fly. While fishing short and soft inside seams of a faster run/pool, orienting yourself downstream or below the fish will enable you to cast directly upstream and work the fly right to your feet. This is also a fantastic approach to work upstream along parallel with a heavily wooded bank. I have seen countless times where a fish will strike multiple times with this approach and ultimately eat the fly at your feet after missing 3-4 times in one drift.

Be sure to always start your casts short, most fish are sitting right at your feet!

At the end of a long night as the sun begins to rise; rest assure, that legendary fish most likely got away. More times than not, they have to make a series of mistakes in order for you to land them. Whether it ran you into a long jam, bent a 1/0 hook, or it came off just short of the net; the giants of the dark will keep you coming back for more. Tip your cap, swig some spiked coffee and keep after it. More often than not, they’ll leave you with a memory rather than a photo that you will never forget. Some nights, all you’ll have left is a fly patch full of chewed up foam.

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About Stephen Nymick:

Stephen Nymick is owner of Stephen Nymick Fly Fishing LLC, and a Guide for Steelhead Alley Outfitters. He began fly fishing at just 5 years old on his local streams in Western Pennsylvania. The day his father took him out to get his first fly rod, he also came home with his first fly tying kit. Stephen has been fly fishing exclusively for over 20 years and has guided for 7 years. Throwing big streamers or mice for brown trout and swinging flies for Steelhead are Stephen’s true passions. You can follow Stephen on Instagram @stephennymick. For further questions, email Stephen at [email protected]. To book a trip, contact Steelhead Alley Outfitters at 888-453-5899.

You could be anxiously anticipating the Virginia Deer Season in 2024 if you like hunting or being outside. It’s important to keep up with the most recent rules and information for this year’s hunting season since there are many different hunting opportunities and locales. We will provide an overview of the Virginia Deer Season for 2024 on this page, including key dates, bag restrictions, rules, and any exceptions or extra hunting possibilities. So let’s get started with everything you need to know for a productive and fun deer hunting season in Virginia. So get your gear, get ready to explore the woods, and let’s get started!

Virginia Deer Season 2024

Virginia’s deer hunting season is a favorite time of year for hunters of all ages and abilities. Early November through the end of December marks the start of the hunting season. The longest season is the archery one, lasting from September through January. There are rules requiring hunters to wear blaze orange apparel during the gun season and have a valid hunting license and deer tag, and bag limits vary based on the kind of hunting.

Archery Season

Archery SeasonDatesAllowed Deer Early Archery SeasonOctober 1 – November 18Either sex Late Archery SeasonsDecember 4 – January 7Either sex December 1 – January 7 December 18 – January 7 Urban Archery Deer SeasonsSeptember 3 – September 30Antlerless only Urban Archery Deer SeasonsJanuary 8 – March 26, 2024Antlerless only NOVA Late Archery SeasonMarch 27 – April 30, 2024Antlerless only

Muzzleloader Season

Muzzleloader Deer Season NameDatesEither-sex Deer Hunting Days Early Muzzleloader SeasonNovember 5 through November 18November 5 through November 18 Late Muzzleloader Season (East)December 17 through January 7December 17 through January 7 January 2 through January 7 7-Jan Late Muzzleloader Season (West)December 17 through January 7December 17 through January 7 January 2 through January 7 7-Jan

Firearms Deer Seasons

Firearms Deer SeasonDates Firearms Deer SeasonsNov. 19 – Dec. 3 Nov. 19 – Dec. 3 Nov. 26, Dec. 2-3 Nov. 19 – Jan. 7 (full season) Nov. 26, Dec. 3, Jan. 2 – Jan. 7 Nov. 26, Nov. 28 – Dec. 3 Nov. 26, Dec. 3, Dec. 5 – Dec. 17 Oct. 8, 15, Nov. 18 – Nov. 30 Nov. 19 – Dec. 17 Nov. 19 – Dec. 17 (full season) Nov. 26, Dec. 3, Dec. 10 – Jan. 7 Nov. 19 – Dec. 3 Early and Late Antlerless Only Firearms Deer SeasonsEarly: September 3 through September 30 Late: January 8, 2024 through March 26, 2024

Note: You may check the dwr.virginia.gov website for the season regions for the aforementioned hunting dates.

VA Deer Bag Limits

LocationDaily Bag LimitLicense Year Bag LimitAntlered Deer LimitAntlerless Deer LimitOther Limitations East of Blue Ridge (except on National Forest lands in Amherst, Bedford, and Nelson counties)263At least 3On National Forest areas and Department-owned and -managed lands, no more than 1 deer each day. Arlington, Fairfax, Loudoun, and Prince William counties and in all cities and towns east of the Blue Ridge except in the cities of Chesapeake, Suffolk, and Virginia BeachUnlimitedNo more than 3 antlered deer in a license year-On National Forest areas and Department-owned and -managed lands, no more than 1 deer each day. West of Blue Ridge and on National Forest lands in Amherst, Bedford, and Nelson counties252At least 3On National Forest areas and Department-owned and -managed lands, no more than 1 deer each day. All cities and towns west of the Blue RidgeUnlimitedMaximum 2 antlered deer in a license year-On National Forest areas and Department-owned and -managed lands, no more than 1 deer each day. Alleghany, Augusta, Bath, Highland, or Rockbridge County-23 with at least 1 buck having 4 antler points, one inch or longer, on one side of the antlersOn National Forest areas and Department-owned and -managed lands, no more than 1 deer each day. Statewide Elk Hunting1 elk per day-

VA Deer Licenses

License TypeAgeFees Resident Sportsman’s License16 and older$100.00 Resident Youth Combination Hunting License12 to 15$16.00 Resident Hunting License* 1-year license16 and older$23.00 2-year license16 and older$44.00 3-year license16 and older$65.00 4-year license16 and older$86.00 Resident Senior Citizen Hunting License$9.00 Resident County or City Hunting License16 and older$16.00 Nonresident Youth Combination Hunting LicenseUnder age 16$31.00 Additional Requirements (may be required with a resident hunting license) Resident Deer License$23.00 Resident Junior Deer License12 to 15$8.50 Nonresident Deer License Valid July 1 through June 30 Age 16 and older$86.00 Age 12 to 15$16.00 Under age 12$13.00

Virginia requires a hunting license and a deer/turkey license from July 1 to June 30 to hunt deer. National Forest, State Forest Use, and Bonus Deer Permits may also be needed.

• Virginia hunters need a hunting and archery license to shoot deer with bows. Deer/turkey licenses, National Forest Permits, State Forest Use Permits, and Bonus Deer Permits may be needed.

• Hunting and muzzleloading licenses are needed to hunt deer in Virginia during muzzleloader season. Deer/turkey licenses, National Forest Permits, State Forest Use Permits, and Bonus Deer Permits may be needed. Archery or muzzleloading licenses are not needed for firearms deer season archery or muzzleloading hunting.

Hunting Regulation

• Deer tags indicate the hunted species. Both antlered and antlerless deer may use either-sex deer tags, but only antlerless deer can utilize antlerless-only tags.

• The animal must be marked with an either-sex deer tag and have antlers visible above the hairline to be classified as an antlered deer.

• Antlerless deer may only be hunted on either-sex days in the archery, muzzleloading, and firearms seasons, save for children and apprentice hunters. They do button bucks and shed-antlered bucks. Tags for antlerless deer are either either-sex or antlerless-only. Antlerless deer include antlered deer that have lost their antlers or have antlers below the hairline.

• Virginia resident and nonresident hunting permits are good for one year from purchase, except those valid from July 1 to June 30. These include the Virginia migrating waterfowl conservation stamp, bear, deer/turkey, and package licenses. Lifetime and two-year apprentice hunting permits are available. The Virginia Wildlife website lists hunter education requirements. Hunting licenses and permits cannot be altered, changed, borrowed, or lent.

• Deer hunting east of the Blue Ridge has a two-per-day and six-per-license-year bag limit. Unless otherwise stated, the six-deer quota must include at least three antlerless deer and no more than three antlered deer. Arlington, Fairfax, Loudoun, and Prince William counties and all cities and towns east of the Blue Ridge save Chesapeake, Suffolk, and Virginia Beach have no deer bag restriction. A license year may only kill three-antlered deer. One deer per day is allowed on National Forest and Department-owned and managed properties east of the Blue Ridge. Before hunting, no bag limits and other rules to be safe and legal.

• A license year limits the number of antlered bucks killed in Alleghany, Augusta, Bath, Highland, and Rockbridge counties. In these counties, a hunter must kill two antlered bucks with at least four one-inch antler points on one side.

• Antlered deer must have at least four one-inch antler points on one side to be lawfully taken in the Flippo-Gentry WMA and Featherfin WMA. These kiosks explain APR bounds.

• Bonus Deer Permits last year. Only antlerless deer may utilize these licenses on private and permitted public properties. Bonus Deer Permits are applicable only on authorized either-sex deer hunting days for all archery (including urban archery), muzzleloader, and firearm deer seasons (including early and late antlerless-only). These licenses let hunters capture more antlerless deer without exceeding the daily bag limit. Bonus Deer Permits are invalid in Buchanan, Dickenson, and Wise counties and on National Forest and Department-owned property. Hunters may buy unlimited Bonus Deer Permits.

• Tree stand hunting requires a full-body safety harness. Keep tied to the tree when off the ground and limit tether slack to lessen fall injury risk. Plan for emergency self-rescue. Use a haul rope to bring your unloaded rifle or bow into the tree stand. Crossbows may be lifted while cocked, but don’t load them until you’re in the stand and ready to hunt. Maintain manufactured tree stands per manufacturer recommendations. Homemade stands may collapse with time, causing accidents. To guarantee your tree stand is safe, visit the Consumer Product Safety Commission website. Even well-used tree stands may need to be fixed and recalled.

• Deers have a two-day and five-license-year bag restriction west of the Blue Ridge and on National Forest properties in Amherst, Bedford, and Nelson counties. Unless otherwise stated, the five-deer limit requires at least three antlerless deer and no more than two antlered deer. All cities and municipalities west of the Blue Ridge have an unrestricted daily deer bag limit, but only two antlered deer each license year. National Forest and Department-owned/managed properties west of the Blue Ridge allow one deer per day. If a deer hunter kills two antlered bucks in Alleghany, Augusta, Bath, Highland, or Rockbridge County in a license year, at least one must have four antler points, one inch or longer, on one side. One elk per day is allowed statewide.

• Even license-exempt deer hunters have bag limits. Bonus deer permits or DCAP, DMAP, and DPOP permits enable hunters on private and approved public properties to capture more antlerless deer than the license-year bag limit. The daily and season bag limits do not apply to these exceptional deer licenses. Hunters with these special licenses may take more antlerless deer than the bag limit without violating the law.

Questions about the Virginia Deer hunting season