It’s a game changer! The innovative new Benjamin Pioneer AirbowTM ushers in a new era in big game hunting, creating a whole new category of weapon that’s safer than a crossbow, easier than a compound bow, and just as simple to use as an air rifle. Based on Benjamin®’s proven Pre-charged Pneumatic (PCP) system, the Pioneer can be cocked with just two fingers, and de-cocked just as easily. It’s easy to handle, remarkably accurate and delivers wicked-fast 450 FPS velocity and 160-ft.-lbs. of wallop that can take down big game, predators, hogs and more.

Power and accuracy. You can feel it in the air.

Driven by 3,000 psi of compressed air, the Benjamin Airbow shoots up to 450 F.P.S. with 160 ft.-lbs. of energy for devastating effect on any size game. Plus, the unique design of the Airbow propels the arrows form the front of the weapon, rather than the rear, which means no archer’s paradox or canting effect. 2″ groups at 50 yards are easily achievable. In addition, arrows fired from the Airbow stabilize quickly while in flight, providing an expanded kill range for any game animal.

Easier to cock and de-cock.

The Benjamin Airbow is easily operated by an ambidextrous cocking bolt that takes little effort to cock and de-cock… just 2-lb. of cocking force. That means almost anyone, regardless of size or strength, can handle this weapon. And, with no cocking rope to lose or tangle, the Airbow is especially safe for treestand use.

CHARGE IT. COCK IT. FIRE IT. UP TO 8 TIMES.

Unlike crossbows which require re-cocking after every shot, the Benjamin Airbow can fire 8 shots on a single pneumatic charge in the same amount of time it takes to fire 3 shots from a crossbow. Plus, the Pioneer fires full-length arrows with full-weight broadheads and requires very little maintenance, all of which give it a clear advantage over crossbows. Benjamin offers a High Pressure Hand Pump (item 660427 ) and 4,500 psi Charging System (item 660428) as filling solutions.

DRAW A BEAD WITH SPECIALLY DESIGNED OPTICS.

For deadly accuracy, the Benjamin Airbow includes a CenterPoint® 6×40 mm scope that was specially designed with the Airbow in mind. The adjustable objective provides parallax settings from 5 yards out and the custom MTAG reticle provides aiming points out to 75 yards. A canted Picatinny base provides 20 MOA of additional adjustment.

• Powered by 3,000 psi of compressed air
• Integrated pressure regulator delivers 8 consistent shots at 450 FPS
• Ambidextrous top cocking bolt is simple to operate
• Delivers a game-stopping 160 ft.-lbs. of energy with 375-gr. arrows @ 450 FPS
• Bullpup configuration is just 33.5″ in length, making it easier to handle, pack and store
• Includes 3 custom 375 grain arrows with 100 grain field tips, hand-fletched helical vanes with unique spine alignment and nano ceramic Victory ICETM coating for increased speed, greater penetration and easier retrieval
• Picatinny rail system for mounting accessories
• Also includes 6x40mm Scope, Sling and Quiver
• Length: 33.5 inches
• Weight: 7 lbs.

Be among the first to experience an exciting new way to hunt! Order yours today!

Key Specifications

• Item Number: 665642
• Stock: Synthetic
• Power Plant: Benjamin® PCP
• Velocity: Up to 450 FPS
• Energy: 160-ft.-lbs.
• Overall Length: 33.5″
• Overall Weight: 7 lbs.
• Scope: 6x40mm
• Special Features: includes 3 custom 375 grain arrows with 100 grain field tips, Sling, and Quiver

No Returns on discounted items – feel free to call us for information on accessories and regulations 205-664-3431

In many areas, fall is one of the best times to fish for yellow perch. These brightly colored fish are hard fighters and make excellent table fare. Although small fish are present during the fall season, trophy class yellow perch are often caught.

For anglers in search of jumbo sized fall yellow perch, location can be a key factor. Large fish are often caught in areas where fishing pressure is light. In many cases, yellow perch hot spots are difficult to reach or present challenges to anglers.

When targeting yellow perch during the fall season, recent information can be extremely valuable. Among the sources are catch reports from bass or crappie specialists. Both of these niche angling groups tend to catch yellow perch by accident while targeting their favorite species. Although some anglers are very tight-lipped when it comes to sharing information, most are more than happy to discuss non-target species.

Structure Fishing

In most locations, fall yellow perch are found near structure. In main rivers, they are often found along steep drops, although perch are quick to move up onto shallow flats to feed during warm periods. During the late season, river anglers sometimes find yellow perch in good numbers, often mixed in with largemouth bass, crappie, white perch, or other species.

In creeks and smaller tributaries, yellow perch move into pools or other deep sanctuaries during the fall season. They often feed aggressively, staging along areas where currents meet eddies.

In small ponds, yellow perch often stage near dropoffs during Autumn. In some impoundments, bass or crappie anglers are sometimes surprised as trophy class yellow perch attack their lures, especially near sunset.

In larger lakes, yellow perch may congregate along slopes or in deep channels near their summer feeding areas. As aquatic vegetation dies off and settles to the bottom, perch may lurk in these deeper areas, feeding on forage fish, insect larvae, crustaceans, and other food sources that are swept into the open.

Lures vs. Baits

When choosing lures or baits for fall yellow perch fishing, anglers take into consideration the type of habitat, water depth, clarity, and temperature, weather conditions, and other factors. Other species may also influence gear choices as some anglers prefer to target yellow perch exclusively, while others may seek a variety of species, including crappie, white perch, white bass, sunfish, largemouth bass, and others.

Best Lures for Catching Yellow Perch

The most common yellow perch lures include a variety of small to mid-sized jigs, spoons, spinnerbaits, crankbaits, tube lures, plastic worms, and other selections. In many environments, the best artificial lures for yellow perch are ones that can reach deep fish while moving enticingly at low speeds. When fish are found among stumps, tree trunks, or other obstructions, snagless designs become essential.

When fishing among obstructions, downsizing of traditional largemouth bass lures and techniques is sometimes effective for yellow perch. Although perch may slow down in cold water, they sometimes bite aggressively and will take plastic worms, tube lures, or other soft plastics.

Live Baits and Rigs for Catching Yellow Perch

In some areas, live baits are preferred for catching yellow perch. Minnows are by far the most common choice as live baits. Alternative live baits sometimes include small crayfish, nightcrawlers, or insect larvae (grubs).

Live minnows can be fished using a number of rigs, with each having one or more specific applications. The simplest rig consists of a basic jig such as a shad dart, tube jig, or marabou jig, tipped with a live minnow. Jig-minnow combinations work particularly well when casting or drifting over shallows or moderate depths.

Minnows can also be fished on a live bait or circle hook, rigged on traditional top and bottom leaders, dropshot rigs, or as Carolina or Texas rigs. Live bait hooks and other traditional style hooks are popular in some applications, although they do have a number of drawbacks.

Floating jig hooks are also useful in some situations, especially when rigged as a Carolina rig. Floating jig heads position live minnows just off the bottom, away from obstructions and other debris.

One option for fishing live minnows is the circle hook. Circle hooks reduce fish mortality by greatly reducing deep hooking. Although circle hooks require a higher level of skill to use than conventional hooks, most anglers find them extremely effective.

Circle hooks are available in a number of styles. Many circle hooks come with offset points, although a true circle hook, by definition, has no hook offset. Most freshwater circle hooks can be easily bent in order to remove any offset, making them less likely to snag on obstructions or gut hook yellow perch.

Circle hooks work well for drifting live minnows on Carolina rigs or on a long leader with a dropper type sinker configuration. Some anglers add a small tube body, bucktail skirt, or mylar skirt above the hook to add elements of flash and color.

Regardless of the type of rig used for catching yellow perch, late season fishing can be productive. Depending on local conditions, yellow perch fishing may continue into winter. In northern areas, more perch fishing follows as soon as lake ice over enough for winter fishing to begin.

Whitetails use the land differently throughout the year. From bedding and feeding perspectives, whitetails have different needs in spring, summer, fall, and winter. Core areas shift. Different parts of home ranges are utilized. But for now, it’s the early season, and there are certain things to know.

First, let’s define “early season” as the portion of deer season leading up to the pre rut. In most states, this generally falls between August and mid-October.

Every good whitetail treestand location should be chosen with careful thought and consideration. Wind direction, proximity to bedding, food, water, or security cover — it’s important to give yourself as many options as possible as deer patterns shift. But there’s another way to categorize stand locations. These two groups include topography-specific or habitat- and terrain-specific hotspots.

Once a hunter knows what characteristics to look for, HuntStand helps reveal these gems. That’s true for brand-new properties, and even those you’ve hunted forever. As someone who’s hunted some of the same properties for 25 years, sometimes you learn new things about tracts, even when you thought you had them completely figured out.

Topography-Specific Hotspots

Topography is best defined as change in elevation. Hills, hollows, bottomlands, ridges — these and more are characteristics of changing topography. In short, it’s the opposite of pancake-flat ground. And if I’ve learned anything in my 25 years of deer hunting, it’s that topography can make or break a hunt. It can also create and present excellent early season treestand locations.

1. Leeward Ridges: The downwind sides of ridgelines oftentimes have bucks, and other deer, bedded on them. This is true even in the early season, especially if hunting pressure is already ramping up.

2. Low Spots: During the early season, deer like low spots for multiple reasons. First, scent gathers here. Second, it’s cooler. Third, water is more likely to be present. And fourth, green food sources are more likely.

3. Near Water: Water is important all year, but especially when it’s hot. Not just for drinking, though. Usually, it means lush growth for eating, and cooler air for comfort.

4. Watering Holes: Focus on secluded, stagnant (or slow moving) water sources to see mature bucks.

5. Ridge Lines: Oftentimes, ridge lines have hard or soft mast, including oaks. When these start dropping, be there.

6. Ridge Points: Deer commonly bed on ridge points (endings), especially if a hot food source is down below.

7. Thermal Hubs: Also referred to as crow’s feet, thermal hubs are where multiple ridge endings taper down (from multiple directions) in the same spot. Here, thermals collect, and deer use that to their advantage.

8. Solar Bedding: Pinpoint northern-facing slopes, which receive less sunlight. (Pro tip: You usually see more daylight walking by mature bucks here.)

Fortunately for HuntStand users, key HuntStand layers help identify topography specific hotspots. Some of these include 3D, Contour, Quad Topo, Terrain, etc.

Hanging Stands: Choosing the Best Treestand Tree on the Property

Habitat and Terrain-Specific Hotspots

While topography-specific stand locations tend to have greater effect on reliable deer movement, there are many more habitat- and terrain-specific spots to consider. These too can create an excellent opportunity for stands.

9. Ag Field Edges: Alfalfa, clover (in hay fields), soybeans, and others, are all great ag field options.

10. Appearing Rub Lines: As bucks come out of velvet, and start to establish their travel routes, rubs will appear. Use these markers to help choose stand locations.

11. Draws: U-shaped fields and openings with timber on three sides attract deer. If good bedding areas and food sources are present, expect deer movement.

12. Crossings: Pinch points are relevant all year, especially for bowhunters. Keep creek, fence, and other crossings at the forefront.

13. Hidden Fields: Secluded fields are excellent options for deer hunters. Mature bucks are more likely to use these than fields that are more exposed.

14. Inside Field Corners: Anywhere a field creates an L shape in the timber is an inside field corner. If a relevant bedding area is close to it, give it bonus points.

15. Mast Trees: Hard and soft mast trees are important elements of the early season. Hard mast trees, such as chestnuts, red oaks, and white oaks, are key trees to pinpoint. Soft mast trees, such as apples, pears, and persimmons, are hot food sources, too.

16. Micro Food Plots: Small food plots positioned in strategic locations can be incredible plays during the early season. Of course, this requires a plant species that hits peak attractiveness at this time, though.

17. Scrapes and Mock Scrapes: Whitetails hit scrapes (and mock scrapes) all year long. But this action really starts to ramp up during the early season and pre-rut.

18. Staging Areas: Anywhere that deer tend to congregate at last light is a staging area. Find these that are located between early season bedding areas and food sources.

19. Thermal Bedding: Throughout the year, deer use different types of bedding cover. During the early season, that’s oftentimes thermal bedding, such as cedar thickets. These hold cooler air in the heat of the year and warmer air in the cool of the year.

20. Trail Emergences: Anywhere a trail leads from a bedding area to a food or water source can be a solid bet for killing a target deer.

21. Trail Intersections: Don’t quite have your deer patterned yet? Consider trail intersections. This increases the odds of seeing the deer you are after.

As with topography-centric areas, key HuntStand layers help identify habitat and terrain specific hotspots, too. Some of these include 3D Map, Hybrid, Mapbox Satellite, Natural Atlas, National Aerial Imagery, Satellite, Tree Cover, Whitetail Habitat Map, and more.

How to Speed Scout with HuntStand Pro’s Monthly Satellite Imagery

Patterns Change Quickly

Now that you’re equipped with plenty of target treestand location types, understand that these spots aren’t guarantees. You still must scout in the field, study the situation, and determine if deer are currently using these spots, or not. Deer have short-, mid-, and long-term patterns. Each of these are driven by bedding needs, changing food sources, hunting pressure, and more.

Naturally, the most recent info is most important. Things change quickly. If running trail cameras, or glassing deer in the field, focus on that. Also, property conditions and layout being similar as past years, reflect on historical trail camera photos and in-the-field encounters to see how, when, and where deer used the land.

For those interested in knowing what bedding areas are being used by target bucks (or deer in general) at a given time, consider soaking cellular trail cameras on the fringes of these. Pair these with external battery sources to maximize battery life. Because, once these cameras go dead, you won’t want to invade bedding areas to revitalize these during the season.

Next-Level Deer Hunting with HuntStand Pro Whitetail

Prepare for the Pre-Rut Shift

As we move closer to some opening days, and deeper into seasons already open, expect disbursement to happen. Eventually, as many as 50% of bucks will shift into their fall ranges, which might not overlap with early season stand locations.

So, as you begin to see new bucks on the landscape, work to identify bucks as new or returning. When trying to determine who a specific buck is, pay attention to physical identifiers, including antler mass, antler spread, antler structure, body markings, body scars, body size, brow tine characteristics, facial coloration, fur coloration, fur patterns, tine length, unique points, and more. Also, pay attention to behavioral tendencies.

Once we transition out of the early season, and ease into the pre-rut, consider looking to treestand locations for that period. Focus on key food sources at that time. Generally, these are geographic specific. Solid picks include seasonal bedding area edges, food sources edges, pockets of falling mast crops, staging areas, micro food plots, and more. Additionally, under the right circumstances, don’t overlook all-season locations, including funnels, inside field corners, isolated watering holes, pinch-points, saddles, scrapes, mock scrapes, and more.

But until then, continue to focus all efforts on great early season treestand locations. And keep using HuntStand to dial in on those early season hotspots.

Find Public-Land Deer Hotspots on the Fly with HuntStand Pro

HuntStand Pro vs. HuntStand Pro Whitetail

HuntStand is a valuable tool for deer hunters. It’s offered on multiple levels, including Pro and Pro Whitetail. Each of these offers more options than the last, and it’s important for deer hunters to determine which of these best fits their needs, style of hunting, and more.

HuntStand Pro

Those who choose HuntStand Pro will have access to powerful app tools and incredibly useful layers. Each of these will aid in the pursuit of successful land management, public land hunting, communication with hunting partners, and much more. Unlike the free version of HuntStand, it’s an ad-free experience.

Includes: Advanced property search, monthly satellite imagery, offline mapping, premium map layers, property data, real 3D maps, stand reservations, trail camera management, treestand (and other gear) deployment management, weather overlays, and more.

Layers: 3D (true 3D viewing), Mapbox (Color-Corrected) Satellite, National Aerial Imagery, Natural Atlas, (General) Public Hunting Lands, (Detailed) Public Hunting Lands, TerraPulse Tree Cover, and more.

Price: $29.99 (per year)

UPGRADE TO PRO

HuntStand Pro Whitetail

While Pro is a very efficient subscription level, Pro Whitetail is a must for serious deer hunters.

Includes: In addition to what’s include at the HuntStand Pro level, Pro Whitetail also features Crop History, Whitetail Activity Forecast (detailing weather, wind and other conditions, plus daily hunt-quality scores), Whitetail Habitat Map (showcasing likely habitat-based hotspots), Nationwide Whitetail Rut Map (individualized data for each county), and more.

Layers: HuntStand Pro layers plus additional layers: Nationwide Whitetail Rut Map, Whitetail Habitat Map, Crop History

Price: $69.99 (per year)

UPGRADE TO HUNTSTAND PRO WHITETAIL

Question: I read Dr. Dave Samuel’s explanation of why “Slingshot,” the buck in Curt Wells’ October 2022 article had an extra antler sticking out of his forehead. Could Dave explain how droptines and double main beams occur in whitetails? Craig S., via e-mail

Answer: There is no question that older bucks tend to develop droptines more readily than young bucks, and usually genetics is involved. The genes for droptines (and sticker points and extra points) tend to be expressed when bucks get older. The fact that we don’t see many bucks with droptines in the wild is because we kill lots of younger bucks before they can manifest their full potential. Some biologists believe that almost half of all bucks have some genes for nontypical points that would become visible if the bucks lived long enough. Proving this would be difficult, but it sure appears to be true.

Another factor that complicates the impact of genetics on droptines is the doe. Her genes most certainly play a role here, and some have suggested that her role is even more important than that of the buck. Again, that would be hard to prove, but deer-game farmers keep track of all their breeders — bucks and does. And they can and do breed for big, older nontypical bucks because such bucks bring in more money.

The cause for double main beams is something totally different, because genetics is not involved. Almost certainly, a double main beam is caused by an injury to the pedicle. Let me review what Curt wrote in his article in our October issue. The pedicle is the bony projection of the frontal bone where the antler develops. It has a special cell layer on it where the new antler grows. Research has shown that if you take some of those special cells and move them, a new antler tine often develops. In fact, years ago a researcher in Canada grafted some of these cells on the leg bone of a deer, and an antler tine grew there. In the case of “Slingshot,” those cells moved to the center of the frontal bone — yielding a “unicorn” buck.

But for double antlers, the cells move just as a new antler is starting to grow. At that time, if the buck bumps that area of his head, he may displace some of those cells right beside the base of the pedicle. When that happens, a second antler may start to grow there. If you look at photos of bucks with a double main beam, that second antler’s base is right beside or against the pedicle. When these special cells end up at the base of the pedicle, you may not get a second antler. There are times when the pedicle is bumped just as the antler starts to grow, in which case you just get a jumble of smaller tines around the base of the original antler. But on rare occasions, you’ll get a whole new antler.

Such bucks are not genetically inferior; they just have an extra antler. It will shed when the normal antlers shed. And it will most likely grow there the next year because the specialized cells that form the spot where the antler grows are still there.

The trauma to the pedicle, just as the antler starts to grow, can be caused by most anything. The buck may just bump his head on a tree limb or by sparring with another buck. Growing antlers are subject to damage that affects the resulting antler, and double main beams is one such outcome.

How To Cook A Pig In The Ground Southern Style

When it comes to traditional Southern cooking, few things beat the rich flavors and succulent tenderness of a whole pig cooked in the ground. This age-old cooking method, known as “pig roasting” or “hog roasting,” brings together an entire community for a hearty feast. In this article, we will take you through the step-by-step process of cooking a pig in the ground like a true Southerner.

1. Choose the Right Pig

The key to a successful pig roast is selecting the right pig. Look for a young pig, preferably weighing between 60 and 100 pounds. It’s important to choose a pig that is fresh and sourced from a reputable butcher or farm.

2. Prepare the Pit

Prepare a pit in your backyard or designated cooking area. The pit should be large enough to accommodate the pig and have sufficient depth for hot coals or wood. Line the pit with bricks or rocks for insulation.

3. Build the Fire

Start by building a fire in the pit. Use hardwood such as oak, hickory, or mesquite for a traditional smoky flavor. Allow the fire to burn until you have a good bed of hot coals. You can also add some soaked wood chips for additional flavor.

4. Season the Pig

While the fire is burning, it’s time to season the pig. Generously rub a mixture of salt, pepper, garlic powder, and your favorite dry rub all over the pig, both inside and out. This will help to enhance the flavor and ensure a crispy, flavorful skin.

5. Secure the Pig

Place the pig on a large wire mesh or grill grate and securely attach it to a metal rod or rebar. This will make it easier to handle and rotate the pig during the cooking process. Make sure it is properly positioned above the hot coals.

6. Lower the Pig into the Pit

Using heat-resistant gloves or hooks, carefully lower the pig into the pit, positioning it directly above the hot coals. Ensure that it is centered and not touching the sides of the pit to facilitate even cooking.

7. Cover and Cook

Once the pig is securely in the pit, cover it with a layer of burlap or wet banana leaves. This will help to retain moisture and create a steaming effect during the cooking process. Then, cover the pit with a layer of dirt or sand to seal in the heat.

8. Monitor the Cooking

Allow the pig to cook slowly over the hot coals for approximately 12 hours. It’s crucial to monitor the cooking temperature, maintaining it around 225-250°F. Rotate the pig every few hours to ensure even cooking and baste it with a mixture of vinegar and water or your desired marinade.

9. Test for Doneness

To test for doneness, insert a meat thermometer into the thickest part of the pig without touching the bone. The internal temperature should read 160°F for the meat to be safely cooked. Additionally, the skin should be crispy and golden brown.

10. Carve and Serve

Once the pig is fully cooked, carefully remove it from the pit and allow it to rest for about 30 minutes. Use a sharp knife or cleaver to carve the pig into succulent pieces, including the crispy skin. Serve alongside traditional Southern sides like coleslaw, cornbread, and barbecue sauce.

There you have it – the ultimate guide to cooking a pig in the ground Southern Style. Whether you’re hosting a backyard party or a festive gathering, this traditional method is sure to impress your guests and leave them craving for more of that smoky, tender goodness. So gather your friends and family, and celebrate the rich culinary heritage of the South with a mouthwatering pig roast!

SEAWORMS

There are two species of seaworms that are popular among striper fishermen, the bloodworm and the sandworm. Both are dug from mud tidal flats in Maine, but they can be found throughout the Northeast.

The worms are similar in their appearance and effectiveness, yet there is a strong regional preference for bloodworms in southern New Jersey, while fishermen to the north prefer sandworms. Bloodworms hold the hook a bit better than sandworms, but both are relatively fragile.

In southern New Jersey, fishermen use them in rivers and back bays for spring stripers. In northern New Jersey and throughout New York, shore fishermen use sandworms in the surf and in the bays, while boat fishermen use them to sweeten trolling rigs.

For fishing these baits from shore, fishermen have the most luck using a two-hook rig like the Pompano Rig. Tied with short leaders and small baitholder or circle hooks, this rig is best fished on back-bay mud flats or sand beaches.

Years ago, slow-trolling sandworms on a worm harness from a small boat was the preferred tactic for catching early-season stripers in Long Island Sound. Though this technique has fallen out of favor with modern anglers, it’s no less effective today, and will account for big numbers of spring stripers.

The bizarre-looking tube-and-worm rig is a proven tactic for big stripers throughout the season. Tipping the tube with a piece of sandworm is the secret to the rig’s success as the scent of the worm seals the deal for stripers following the rig.

Keep Them Fresh

If you have leftover seaworms, place them on a bed of damp seaweed and put them in your refrigerator. They should keep for a week or so.

CLAMS

Though stripers can’t crack the shell of a full-size surf clam, when a storm does the cracking for them, they don’t hesitate to slurp down the gooey entrails. Clams are a very popular bait in New Jersey and on Long Island.

Clams are best used when fresh, bought in the shell at your local tackle shop. In the absence of fresh, salted clams are the next best, with frozen being a last resort.

Surf fishermen use clams along sandy beaches and inside mudbottom bays, especially early and late in the season. Boat fishermen anchor around back-bay structure and ladle out clam bellies to start a chum slick and bring the stripers right to the boat.

Bathe Them in Brine

At the end of your trip, if you won’t be getting out again soon, you can save your clam baits for a future outing by adding them to a kosher salt brine and placing them in the freezer. Be careful not to oversalt the clams or they will become rock-hard and useless as striper bait.

BUNKER

Live or cut into chunks, bunker share the title of the best big-bass bait with eels.

Since dead bunker are easy to procure from bait shops, chunking is the most popular method for using this bait. Surf fishermen usually switch over from clams to bunker late in the springtime when larger stripers move in from southern waters. Boat fishermen chunk bunker throughout the season, anchoring up and doling out small pieces of baitfish while sending back a larger chunk or the head on a hook.

Live bunker are usually fished weightless with a large hook worked through the nose. In deeper waters, or areas with current, fishermen will rig the bunker on a three-way rig with a sinker to help it drop into the strike zone. Surf fishermen can use live bunker by employing a technique known as the “snag and drop,” whereby they cast a weighted treble hook into a school of bunker, snag a bait with long sweeps of the rod, and allow the bait to swim.

The weighted treble, and mortal wound, causes the struggling bunker to sink below the school where opportunistic stripers make a quick meal of it. Some fishermen frown upon this technique as it can lead to stripers being deep-hooked with a treble hook, but if fishermen set the hook at the first strike, the chances of a gut-hooked fish will be reduced dramatically.

Catch Your Own

Bunker are easily caught since they give their presence away by flipping on the surface. Boat fishermen can quickly acquire a day’s worth of bait by tossing a large, heavily weighted cast net over a school of bunker inside a bay or harbor. On the ocean, both shore and boat fishermen use weighted treble hooks cast into the school and snag the large baitfish.

Cutting a Bunker for Chunking

Head A fine piece of bait when looking to weed out skates, dogfish, bluefish and smaller stripers in favor of large fish. Large stripers are accustomed to cleaning up the bunker heads left behind by marauding bluefish schools, and will rarely pass up this bait. Hook the head through the meat on the bunker’s “shoulder,” not through the nose or lips as you would with a live bunker. This allows the hook to tear through the softer flesh when you set the hook, allowing for a better set.

Prime Ribs The next two cuts of bunker include the ribcage and viscera, and leave a potent scent trail the water. These are the best part of the bunker to use as bait when schoolies, skates and dogfish aren’t a nuisance.

Round The last chunk of bunker is all meat. Some fishermen will use it as bait, especially for blues and smaller bass, but many prefer to cut this section into smaller pieces to toss over the side as chum.

Tail Cut the tail off and toss it over. It has little value as bait or chum, and left on, will cause the final cut of bunker to spin while on the hook.

MACKEREL

Mackerel are one of the most popular live baits for striped bass north of Cape Cod. Fished weightless on a live-lining rig or under a float, fishermen use mackerel around rocky structure and shorelines. Slow-trolling with live mackerel is another popular technique for tempting large stripers. Dead mackerel are a great bait when chunked and fished on the bottom. Many bait and tackle shops will have frozen mackerel on hand throughout the season, making it a great backup bait when fresh pogies aren’t available.

Catch Your Own

If you want live macks, it’s on you to catch them. North of Cape Cod, mackerel can be found in large schools over inshore structure and in deep areas with some current. To catch them, drop a mackerel tree or Sabiki rig with a small diamond jig as the weight. You can draw them in and keep them around your boat by using chum.

PORGY

The porgy is a favorite bait for fishermen seeking trophy stripers off eastern Long Island and in Long Island Sound. Summer stripers will hunt schools of porgies around reefs and other bottom structure, making them an effective bait to match the hatch.

Catch Your Own

Since no bait and tackle shops sell live porgies, you’ll have to catch them on your own before your trip. Usually, catching porgies with pieces of clam or squid is no problem; however, finding a perfect baitsize porgy that meets the minimum size limit (9 inches NJ; 10 inches NY), but is no more than 12 or so inches long can be difficult. Fortunately, the payoff when you find them is quick.

Porgies congregate over shallow structure such as a mussel bed or reef. Anchor over this structure and send out a chum pot filled with frozen clam chum. Lower a clam-baited high-low rig to the bottom, and the action should be immediate. Toss the bait-size porgy in the livewell, and when you have enough, head for the striper grounds.

Since fishermen target structure while fishing with scup, a three-way rig or fishfinder rig with enough weight to get the bait to the bottom is best. Once the rig hits bottom, take a few cranks of the reel handle so the live scup drifts past the structure just a few feet above it.

EELS

From the Cape May Rips to Montauk, eels are the go-to live bait for stripers because they are readily available at most tackle shops, are easy to keep alive, and big stripers can’t help but attack them.

Surfcasters fish eels without weight, casting and retrieving them slowly, almost like a living lure. In shallow waters, boat fishermen employ this same technique, casting the eels toward shoreline structure and retrieving them back to the boat. In deeper waters, boaters fish the eels on threeway rigs, lowering the eel to the bottom as they drift over structure.

No Tank, No Problem!

Three Bucket Eel System With a few tools from the garage and three 5-gallon buckets picked up at your local hardware store, you can easily build one of these systems that will keep your eels alive and fresh for days. Drill holes into the bottoms of the top two buckets and leave the bottom one as-is. Then, as the diagram on the right shows, ice in the top, and eels in the middle. The melting ice will drip onto the eels, keeping them wet and cool, but the drain holes in the eel bucket prevent them from sitting in the ice water and suffocating.

UPDATED 17 MAY 2024

by Eric Bartlett

If you’re thinking about getting a new trolling motor, it’s important to get an overview of the different trolling motor brands, as well as their most important characteristics.

In this article we’ll walk you through the most important trolling motor brands, and what you can expect from them in terms of quality and pricing.

What are the different brands of trolling motors?

Here is a list of the most important electric trolling motor brands currently on the market:

• Minn Kota
• MotorGuide
• Rhodan
• Lowrance
• Garmin
• Newport Vessels
• Watersnake
• Haswing

Now let’s take a closer look at each of these brands, and discuss where they are made, what types of trolling motors they produce, and at what price range they typically sell.

Minn Kota trolling motors

Minn Kota is the oldest electric trolling motor company in the world, and was founded in 1934 by O. G. Schmidt, who invented the first electric trolling motor earlier that same year.

This explains their long and rich history in the trolling motor industry, and why they have been a market leader in this space for many decades.

The parent company of Minn Kota is Johnson Outdoors, which also owns Humminbird.

As a result of this connection, Minn Kota trolling motors are generally compatible with Humminbird boat electronics, and in fact their high end models are built to network seamlessly with Humminbird units.

Where are Minn Kota trolling motors made?

Minn Kota trolling motors are designed and manufactured in Mankato, Minnesota.

The fact that their motors are proudly handcrafted in the USA explains why it can be difficult to get Minn Kota trolling motors, since their plant in Mankato sometimes struggles to keep up with the constant high demand.

What types of trolling motors does Minn Kota make?

Minn Kota makes a wide variety of freshwater and saltwater trolling motors, ranging from small, basic units with tiller steering, all the way to high end spot lock trolling motors with built-in transducers.

Their most high end model is the Ultrex, which is currently one of the best GPS controlled trolling motors on the market.

In addition to trolling motors, Minn Kota also makes electric outboard motors, shallow water anchors, and battery chargers.

At what price range are Minn Kota trolling motors usually sold?

$ to $$$ – Minn Kota trolling motors come in all prices, starting just over $100 for the cheapest models, and going up to over $3,500 for the most expensive high end models.

MotorGuide trolling motors

Oklahoma based MotorGuide is one hundred percent specialized in trolling motors, and provides a high quality alternative to Minn Kota at a more affordable price.

Where are MotorGuide trolling motors made?

MotorGuide trolling motors are made in Tulsa, Oklahoma. This reliance on US based production is one reason for their high quality motors, but also explains why it can be hard to get a MotorGuide model of choice.

The parent company of MotorGuide is Brunswick Corporation, which also owns a wide range of other boating and marine brands.

What types of trolling motors does MotorGuide make?

MotorGuide makes a wide variety of saltwater and freshwater trolling motors, including hand controlled units, cable steer trolling motors, as well as high end GPS controlled units.

Their most high end model is the Tour Pro, which was developed specifically for the bass pro circuit.

At what price range are MotorGuide trolling motors usually sold?

$ to $$ – High end MotorGuide models are generally cheaper than high end Minn Kota models, and rarely exceed the $2,000 price point.

Their cheap models, on the other hand, are similarly priced, and start between $100 and $200.

Rhodan trolling motors

Sarasota based Rhodan Marine Systems vies with Minn Kota for the title of best high end trolling motor brand made in the USA.

Where are Rhodan trolling motors made?

Rhodan trolling motors are designed and built in Sarasota, Florida. In addition to manufacturing locally in the USA, they are also famous for their world class customer support if one of their units is defective.

What types of trolling motors does Rhodan make?

Rhodan specializes almost exclusively in making GPS controlled trolling motors that are primarily used by saltwater anglers.

In addition to trolling motors, they also make and sell a wide range of accessories and spare parts of trolling motors.

At what price range are Rhodan trolling motors usually sold?

$$ to $$$ – Rhodan GPS anchor trolling motors are definitely at the expensive end of the scale, and come at a higher cost than Minn Kota high end models.

Since they only make GPS controlled units, they don’t provide any low cost or entry level options.

Lowrance trolling motors

Tulsa based Lowrance is primarily known for their fish finders and other boat electronics, but in 2019 entered into the trolling motor market when they released their Ghost trolling motor.

The nice thing about this is that the Ghost integrates well with Lowrance fish finders and mapping devices, and is built to network with them.

Where are Lowrance trolling motors made?

Lowrance trolling motors are designed in Tulsa, Oklahoma, and built in Ensenada, Mexico.

What types of trolling motors does Lowrance make?

Lowrance currently only makes a single trolling motor model, the Ghost. The Ghost is a high end GPS controlled unit with built-in transducer, and was designed to compete with the top spot lock trolling motors on the market.

At what price range are Lowrance trolling motors usually sold?

$$$ – The Lowrance Ghost is currently one of the most expensive trolling motors on the market, and costs upwards of $3,300. At this price point it competes with the most high end spot lock models of Minn Kota, Rhodan, and Garmin.

Garmin trolling motors

Olathe based Garmin makes a wide range of consumer and marine electronics. Just like Lowrance, they entered the trolling motor market in 2019, when they released their Force trolling motor.

Where are Garmin trolling motors made?

Garmin trolling motors are built in Olathe, Kansas, and Taiwan. Since Garmin also produces a wide range of fish finders and mapping electronics, the nice thing about this is that the Force trolling motor is compatible with other Garmin boat electronics.

What types of trolling motors does Garmin make?

Garmin currently makes a single trolling motor model, the Force. And similar to the Lowrance Ghost, the Garmin Force is a high end spot lock trolling motor that comes with a built-in Garmin transducer.

At what price range are Garmin trolling motors usually sold?

$$$ – The Garmin Force is currently among the most expensive trolling motors (second only to the Lowrance Ghost), and costs upwards of $3,100. In this price category it competes head to head with the Lowrance Ghost, Minn Kota Ultrex, and MotorGuide Tour Pro.

Newport Vessels trolling motors

Newport Vessels is relatively new to the trolling motor market, and specializes in entry level models that are competitively priced.

Where are Newport Vessels trolling motors made?

Newport Vessels trolling motors are made in China. In addition to trolling motors, they also make electric outboards, boats, and a range of marine accessories and parts.

What types of trolling motors does Newport Vessels make?

Newport Vessels specializes in making basic electric trolling motors for small boats, kayaks, and pontoon boats.

At what price range are Newport Vessels trolling motors usually sold?

$ – Newport Vessels models are all in the low cost end of the price scale, with the cheapest trolling motors starting around $150, and going up to $470 for the most expensive model.

Watersnake trolling motors

Australian based Watersnake Motors belongs to the Jarvis Walker group of companies that produce a wide range of fishing, boating, and marine electronics products.

Where are Watersnake trolling motors made?

Watersnake trolling motors are made in Dandenong South, Victoria, Australia.

What types of trolling motors does Watersnake make?

Watersnake produces several basic trolling motors for kayaks and small boats, as well as a high end GPS controlled trolling motor model.

At what price range are Watersnake trolling motors usually sold?

$ to $$ – Most Watersnake trolling motors are at the low cost end of the price scale. They start around $150, and go up to around $550.

The main exception to this is the Geo-Spot trolling motor, which comes with GPS anchor and costs about $1,500.

Haswing trolling motors

Chinese based Haswing Outdoor produces some of the most affordable trolling motors with GPS navigation functionalities.

Where are Haswing trolling motors made?

Haswing trolling motors are made in Yantai, Mainland China. In addition to trolling motors they also provide a range of spare parts and accessories.

What types of trolling motors does Haswing make?

Haswing makes a handful of basic transom and bow mount trolling motors, as well as a sophisticated GPS controlled unit that integrates with a mapping app called Helmsman.

At what price range are Haswing trolling motors usually sold?

$$ – Haswing specializes in middle of the range pricing with most of its models, with prices starting around $300, and going up to $800.

The main exception to this is their Cayman GPS model, which costs around $1,170, and is second only to the Minn Kota PowerDrive as the cheapest spot lock trolling motor on the market.

What trolling motor brands have spot lock?

The following trolling motor brands make models with spot lock:

• Minn Kota
• MotorGuide
• Rhodan
• Lowrance
• Garmin
• Watersnake
• Haswing

In addition to this, Minn Kota and MotorGuide enable you to retrofit some of their models by adding spot lock functionality to them after market (even if they originally did not have spot lock).

What are cheap trolling motor brands?

The following trolling motor brands make cheap models:

• Minn Kota
• Newport Vessels
• Watersnake
• Haswing (Cayman GPS series)

Interestingly, Minn Kota not only makes some of the best and most expensive trolling motors on the market, but also provides some of the most competitively priced models (including cheapest trolling motor overall, as well as the cheapest spot lock trolling motor on the market).

Final remarks

This concludes our discussion of the top trolling motor brands.

While trolling motors have become increasingly popular over the years, most trolling motors are made by just a handful of brands that are dominating the global market.

Note that in addition to these, there are several other trolling motor brands made by companies that don’t specialize in producing trolling motors, but instead make a wide variety of other products, which we did not include here.

If you’re currently debating what kind of trolling motor to get for your boat, check out our article on the pros and cons of 12V vs 24V trolling motors

When we talk about ammunition for the AR-15, the most likely mentions include .223 Remington, 5.56×45 NATO, and .300 Blackout. Why? Because they are the most popular and readily available rounds available for sporting rifles today. But they are not the only rounds available.

Have you heard of the debate between 6.5 Grendel vs. 6.5 Creedmoor? Firearms enthusiasts everywhere can argue for hours about the two rounds and their ideal uses, kinetic energy ratings, and price per round comparisons.

Did you know that in Europe, the 6.5 caliber is immensely popular? Both hunters and target shooters adopted the round over a century ago. Here in North America, we stuck to what we know. That is changing, though. Both of the 6.5 caliber rounds we discuss here are making waves.

The History Behind 6.5 Grendel Vs. 6.5 Creedmoor

6.5 Grendel next to a standard 5.56mm round

Both the 6.5 Grendel and 6.5 Creedmoor were designed with unique goals in mind. Like most other AR-15 ammunition, though, 6.5 Grendel stems from a desire to replace the iconic .223 Remington, while 6.5 Creedmoor hails from the .308 Winchester round.

6.5 Grendel History

During the Vietnam War, the M-16 and 5.56x45mm NATO cartridge saw extensive military use. That use left a lot to be desired, though. Soldiers in the field reported inaccurate ammunition and regular weapon jams. A better platform and caliber were necessary. Enter the 6.5mm caliber.

Many companies sought to improve upon the .223 Remington and 5.56x45mm rounds. Thus Bill Alexander, the creator of the .50 Beowulf, set out to develop the 6.5 Grendel by modifying a 6.5mm PPC case and succeeded. The 6.5 Grendel is significantly more potent than the original .223 Remington while still running in an AR-15.

The 6.5mm Grendel was first publicly announced in 2003 at a Blackwater Training Facility in North Carolina where it displayed its ability to pack a bigger punch than the 5.56 NATO round – one could consider it as the round that basically became the US version of the 7.62×39.

6.5 Creedmoor History

On the other hand, 6.5 Creedmoor was developed largely because of the competitive shooting scene. Dave Emary and Dennis DeMille, of Hornady Manufacturing, worked on the cartridge in the early 2000s. Their goal was simple: create a round for high-power rifle competition shooting, specifically with a high ballistic coefficient, that was more shootable than a .308.

The initial design drew inspirations from the .260 Remington, a wildcat cartridge. Again, they saw success. The 6.5 Creedmoor was as accurate as the .308 Winchester but delivered less recoil, had less wind drift and a relatively flat trajectory. In fact, most people in the precision community now consider .308 to be a completely dead round for the sport, with no reason to choose it over the 6.5 Creedmoor.In terms of precision shooting rounds, the 6.5 Creedmoor became one of the most hotly discussed cartridges of the 21st century. Originally introduced in 2007, today, almost every barrel manufacturer in the U.S. has tooled up to accommodate for the hotly demanded barrel chambered in 6.5 CM.

6.5 Grendel vs. 6.5 Creedmoor: Cartridge Sizes

As 6.5 Creedmoor was based on the .308 cartridge, it’s naturally a larger round. The 6.5 Grendel features a rim diameter of .441”, while the 6.5 Creedmoor is .473”. The larger size means the Creedmoor round achieves a higher maximum average pressure, because it has a larger case capacity for more powder.

6.5 Grendel Specs

• Bullet Diameter: .264”
• Case Length: 1.52”
• Maximum Overall Length: 2.26”
• Rim Diameter: .441”
• Case Capacity: 35gr H2O
• Max Pressure: 52,0000 psi

6.5 Creedmoor Specs

• Bullet Diameter: .264”
• Case Length: 1.92”
• Maximum Overall Length: 2.825”
• Rim Diameter: .473”
• Case Capacity: 52.5gr H2O
• Max Pressure: 62,000 psi

6.5 Creedmoor vs 6.5 Grendel Ballistics

The sheer size difference between the two rounds means a significant gap in ballistics. That being said, both rounds were built with unique purposes in mind. One was meant to replace .223 Remington, while the other was meant to improve upon .308 Winchester—two distinct rounds with massive differences of their own.

6.5 Grendel Ballistics

• Muzzle Velocity: 2,580 fps, 1,818 ft-lb.
• Trajectory – 100 Yards: +2.2”, 1,581 ft-lb.
• Trajectory – 200 Yards: 0”, 1,376 ft-lb.
• Trajectory – 300 Yards: -9.2”, 1,189 ft-lb.
• Trajectory – 400 Yards: -26.4”, 1,023 ft-lb.
• Trajectory – 500 Yards: -52.8”, 876 ft-lb.

6.5 Creedmoor Ballistics

• Muzzle Velocity: 2,925 fps, 2,280 ft-lb.
• Trajectory – 100 Yards: +1.6”, 1,968 ft-lb.
• Trajectory – 200 Yards: 0”, 1,693 ft-lb.
• Trajectory – 300 Yards: -7.1”, 1,448 ft-lb.
• Trajectory – 400 Yards: -20.6”, 1,232 ft-lb.
• Trajectory – 500 Yards: -41.6”, 1,024 ft-lb.

6.5 Grendel vs 6.5 Creedmoor Applications

As you can see 6.5 Grendel and 6.5 Creedmoor are fantastic rounds that successfully improve upon their respective parent rounds. But like all other rounds, each one has its own optimal application.

Why Choose 6.5 Grendel

In terms of intended applications, the 6.5 Grendel is best if you only expect to be using it in a rifle meant for home defense or any kind of target shooting on a range. It is also a very viable caliber for hunting white tail deer and varmints. If you’re looking for a caliber that’s somewhere in between the 5.56mm NATO and 7.62mm NATO rounds, this is it.

Why Choose 6.5 Creedmoor

To be clear, both calibers are excellent for hunting small game such as feral hogs, whitetail deer, and fallow deer at short- to medium-range distances. However, if you wish to hunt larger game, bigger than a deer, then 6.5 Creedmoor is the better choice. In Europe, hunters will take down moose with 6.5 Swede, which is fairly close to the 6.5CM round. Even in competitive shooting, 6.5 Creedmoor is the clear winner when compared against the 6.5 Grendel for its superior bullet velocity and (less bullet drop) flatter flight path.