About a dozen years ago, I began to feel guilty about leaving gut piles behind in the woods after field dressing a whitetail. I was uncomfortable knowing my wife Elaine and I might be wasting edible items after butchering an animal. We first tried cooking the heart, which we found to be delicious. Then we tried liver, which smelled great when it was being cooked, but the taste was, well, not very appealing.

Our next experiment involved the tongue – rather I should say “my” experiment, as Elaine just couldn’t bring herself to try this organ. My reasoning was that in the 1800s, Americans regarded buffalo tongue as a delicacy, and it became a high dollar entrée in the country’s best restaurants. So, why wouldn’t a deer’s tongue prove to be equally scrumptious?

Several years ago, I crock-potted my first deer tongue and found it to be tough and unappetizing – thus ending the research on that potential menu item. But this past year, while reading about cooking animal organs, I discovered that mammal tongues are covered by a sheath that must be peeled off, which I had not done on my initial kitchen test.

Intrigued about trying tongue again, I again crock-potted this organ, removed the sheath, sliced it into small pieces, and ate it on brown bread with sharp cheddar cheese and mustard – the same way I prefer heart. The tongue was quite tasty, possessing a milder flavor than heart but nevertheless very appealing and featuring a somewhat light, delicate taste.

Experimenting again, I found that deer tongue, as the prime player, makes an excellent salad. I’ve included a recipe below.

First, for those deer hunters who like to experiment with the organs and various uncommon cuts of a whitetail, I have a few questions. If you can help, please comment below.

Ribs: Have you ever cooked venison ribs? How do you remove the ribs from the deer, and how do you prepare them?

Lungs: I’ve heard that deer lungs can be made as part of a haggis recipe. Has anyone tried this?

Bone marrow: Native Americans ate deer bone marrow. Does anyone still do that?

Kidneys: Thoughts?

Intestines: Many folks relish chitlins, which are fried hog intestines. Anyone ever tried doing that with a deer’s intestines?

Mystery Meat: Once, a widow who let me hunt on her land asked me to bring her a deer liver if I was successful, so I did. Later, she called to thank me for including the gall bladder because it also “cooked up nicely” as part of her meal of fried liver and onions. The problem is, deer don’t possess gall bladders. To this day I wonder, what was the organ this lady ate?

Thanks for any ideas you can offer, and here’s that recipe.

Deer Tongue Salad

In a crock pot, cook the tongue on high for three hours. I’ve removed the sheath immediately after cooking and also after refrigeration. I’ve found it works better to cook and then chill the tongue before removing the sheath.

On top of a bed of spinach, thinly slice the chilled tongue and add sharp cheddar cheese, black walnuts, cranberries, and slices of avocado – my favorite add-ons. Feel free to experiment with your favorite vegetables and cheeses, and let me know the results.

Deer hunting is a tradition that can be found in every culture.

It has served as a way to provide food, materials for clothing, keep deer populations from overwhelming local ecosystems, and even as a hobby or for sport.

Those who enjoy deer hunting or know someone who does knows just how tasty venison can be.

However, it may be difficult to tell whether or not the deer meat is still good.

How To Tell If Deer Meat Is Spoiled (4 Ways)

In order to tell whether or not deer meat is spoiled, you are going to need to use all of your senses.

You can tell deer meat is spoiled by the touch, smell, and look of it.

There’s no need to taste it, as that can be hazardous for your health.

There are also other factors that you can use to tell whether or not your deer meat is still healthy to consume.

1. The Touch Of The Venison

Your venison won’t feel fresh if you touch it.

The deer meat will feel slimy and wet to the touch.

While your venison should be damp, it should never be soggy or slippery.

You may not be able to tell if your deer meat is spoiled by the touch if your venison has been frozen.

Luckily, there are multiple options for analyzing the freshness of your venison.

2. The Look Of The Venison

The first way you can tell if deer meat has gone bad is by the look of it.

Your deer meat should be a nice, deep red.

If your venison is brown, then you have a problem.

Spoiled meat will also have a metallic shine to it, but that can be a difficult deciphering tool because deer meat always has a certain shine to it.

This natural shine comes from the deer’s thick tendons and muscle structure.

It is better to go by the color if you are solely going off of looks.

If you’ve already ground up your meat, then you should take a look at the inside of each ground chunk.

If the inside is brown, then the meat is no longer good.

3. The Smell Of The Venison

You will mostly smell the revolting aroma of spoiled deer meat before you can even get to the other steps of studying the venison.

A sewage-like smell will attack your nose and seep deep into your nostrils.

If your deer meat has been frozen, you may not be able to smell it at first.

The smell will get increasingly intense as the meat thaws.

Prepare for your whole house to reek of sewage by opening the windows and airing out the house beforehand.

4. The Timing Of The Venison

There are two time frames that you will want to consider when trying to figure out if your venison has gone bad.

The first time frame you will need to take into consideration is when it was killed, dressed, and stored.

In order to keep your meat good for as long as possible, you will need to shorten the time between when the deer was killed and when it was frozen.

The time limit between those two events will be shorter if the weather is hot and humid.

You can leave deer meat out for the longest time when it is cold and dry.

The second time frame you’ll want to consider is how long you have been storing your meat.

You’ll also want to consider where it is being stored.

In the refrigerator, your meat will last three days.

Ground venison can last in the freezer for three months.

Venison roasts and steaks can be stored in the freezer for six to nine months.

Eating Spoiled Meat

Avoid eating spoiled meat at all costs.

The effects of eating spoiled meat can be devastating to your digestive tract.

If you have eaten questionable meat and that meat turns out to be spoiled, you may experience symptoms such as stomach pain, nausea, and diarrhea.

However, the worst-case scenario is death.

Rotten meat is where bacteria such as Escherichia coli and salmonella prosper.

Cooking your meat may get rid of any future bacteria forming, but it does not get rid of the toxins that they leave behind.

Those are left deep inside of the meat.

Ground meats will need to be cooked to a minimum of 165 degrees Fahrenheit.

Venison steaks and roasts will need to be cooked to 145 degrees Fahrenheit or higher to have any chance of killing these germs.

There’s another germ you will need to worry about.

Clostridium botulinum can be found in all sorts of meats.

This bacterium causes vision problems, paralysis, and even death.

There are five different types of Botulism.

There is infant botulism, wound botulism, iatrogenic botulism, and adult intestinal toxemia.

Each type of botulism is based on where it forms.

It can form in your wounds, your food, your cosmetics, your intestines when you’re an infant or adult, and even your food.

Foods that are canned or made at home without the proper equipment are at a higher risk of having foodborne botulism.

All forms of botulism are fatal.

If you or a loved one are potentially suffering from botulism, then go to the emergency room immediately.

Diseased Venison

There is something vastly more dangerous than simply spoiled meat.

There is a disease that is going through the United States’ deer population called Chronic Wasting Disease.

Similar to Mad Cow Disease, Chronic Wasting Disease eats away at the brain.

The U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention hasn’t linked the disease to anything that indicates humans can get it, but the organization still highly discourages eating meat from deer with this disease.

Before you go for your hunt, you should look into whether or not Chronic Wasting Disease is prevalent in your hunting area.

Those hunting for food should select another location for hunting or be prepared to have your meat tested once you bring the venison home.

There are other precautions you can take to avoid eating diseased meat as well.

How To Avoid Diseased Meat

One of the first things you can do to avoid diseased meat is to not shoot sick or weak-looking animals.

Instead, you should call your local fish and game department to inform them of the animal.

Should you accidentally shoot a sick-looking animal, turn it into your local game department so they may record and analyze it.

By doing this first tip alone, you will be helping keep your loved ones, the local community, and the local deer population safe.

Whenever you are dressing your deer in the field, make sure to wear latex or rubber gloves.

This will help you avoid direct contact with any potential contaminants.

It is better for you to bone out your deer, rather than sawing straight through the spine, brain, or any bone.

During the deboning process, try to avoid touching the brain or spinal tissues for longer than necessary.

You should wash your hands immediately and thoroughly after the field dressing is finished.

You will also need to make sure that your tools are completely clean and have soaked in 40% bleach for a minimum of five minutes each.

You should avoid eating the brain, spinal cord, spleen, eyes, tonsils, or lymph nodes of the deer.

While most of these things will be removed during a normal field dressing, you may still need to make sure to avoid lymph nodes.

By cutting away all of the fatty bits of the deer, you will have cut away any lymph nodes.

Hunters who want to be extra cautious may choose to ensure that, when their meat is processed, their animal is being processed individually, without any other meat mixing in.

Best Venison Meals

Venison can make for a hardy, protein-packed meal that has that signature gamey taste.

While that gamey taste isn’t for everyone, there are many ways to prepare venison as a meal.

It doesn’t all need to be your basic venison roast.

The best kind of jerky is venison jerky, by far.

This meaty, gamey jerky is the perfect snack while working or even hunting more deer.

All you will need to make it is venison, chili powder, onion powder, liquid smoke, soy sauce, Worcestershire sauce, black pepper, garlic powder, and teriyaki sauce.

If you like your venison jerky spicy, add some hot sauce and hot paprika.

You will want to cook your jerky at 150 to 175 degrees Fahrenheit.

You will cook one side of your jerky for three hours before flipping it over and cooking the other side for another three hours.

When in doubt, turn your meat into sausages!

With some venison, garlic powder, black pepper, mustard seed, tender quick, onion powder, and liquid smoke.

All meat lovers agree that the better sausages have cheese in them.

If you’ve never made sausage before, you may end up having a lot of fun with the steps it takes to make sausage.

The coarser you grind the meat up beforehand, the better it will stay together in a sausage.

You’ll want to leave your logs in the refrigerator overnight to help make the sausage firmer.

The better you mix your meat with your other ingredients, the better your sausage will hold up and turn out.

Venison makes excellent meat for any soup or stew.

Its gamey taste pairs well with vegetables, cheese, and herbs.

Any soup that has beef in it can be easily replaced with venison for a more gamey taste.

You can also add venison to vegetable-based soups, like potato soup.

The starch of the potatoes soaks up the gamey venison.

Health Benefits Of Venison

When you’re trying to decide on what to eat for a healthy meal, venison may not cross your mind.

It may be shocking just how many health benefits that venison has.

When most people go hunting, they aren’t thinking about the healthy meat they’re bringing home to their families, but luckily, your hobby is good for the whole family.

Deer meat is packed to the brim with protein.

In 100 grams of venison, there are 24 grams of protein!

A fourth of deer meat is pure protein.

The protein from venison is a complete protein, meaning it contains all of the essential amino acids that our bodies need in order to survive.

Complete proteins are what keep our immune systems, hormones, and crucial enzyme production in order.

Those who love beef but need to cut back on saturated fats should consider replacing beef with venison.

Deer meat is vastly lower in saturated fats than most other red meats.

Venison isn’t just a great source of protein, but it is also an excellent source of iron.

With 25% of the world’s population having an iron deficiency, we could all use a little venison.

There are two different types of iron: haem and non-haem.

Non-haem iron mostly comes from plants, but it doesn’t absorb into the body as well as haem iron.

Haem iron comes from most meats, excluding the liver, spleen, and bone marrow.

Zinc is one of the trickiest minerals to get into your system, with most people just opting to take zinc supplements.

By eating 100 grams of venison, you will get almost a third of the total zinc you need in a day!

Zinc is responsible for keeping your skin healthy.

It is also a crucial mineral for reproductive health, especially in men.

Quality Of Meat Weighs On Quality Of Shot

The quality of your meat weighs heavily on the quality of your shot.

The best hunters will kill their meat as humanely as possible, which means doing it with the fewest number of shots.

Plus, scaring your prey will only cause their body temperature to rise as they run for their lives.

You’re looking for the “one shot, one kill”.

You’re out in the field, and you’re aiming at the broadside of a buck.

Wait for the deer to have his leg extended and aim for a third of the way up his body, right behind the leg.

That is where the heart and lungs are.

This shot gives you room for error because of all the vital organs in the area.

With this shot, it is better to shoot a little high than a little low.

If the deer you’re hunting is looking toward you, you should aim for the lower quarter of their chest.

A deer’s lungs and legs are the best tools they have for escaping.

You want to take out the lungs because that will result in a quicker death for the deer.

Never forget the importance of respecting the animal you’re going to make a meal out of.

Texans have their own special spot to shoot a deer for a quick death.

Your deer will need to be facing away from you with its butt showing.

Use that tail of theirs to make the perfect marker for the “Texas Heart Shot“.

By shooting straight through the tail, you will be hitting the aortic artery and puncture the heart and lungs, which will lead to internal bleeding.

Plus, their white, little tails make it easier to see exactly where you need to shoot.

Isn’t it a great day not to be a deer?

NEXT: 50 Words That Begin And End With T (And How To Use Them)

The ongoing battle between 45-70 vs 30-06 is distinguished with slim margins considering they are both quality cartridges.

These two black powder cartridges were originally designed for war and are now mainly used as hunting calibers. We’ll look at the best performer between 45-70 vs 30-60 to help you decide which is best for your needs.

Here’s an overview of what you’ll learn in the following article:

• The most powerful ammunition
• Which bullet has a higher velocity
• What are the most significant differences between 45-70 and 30-06
• Dynamics of the two cartridges
• Which is ideal for deer hunting

Let’s get into it!

A Quick Comparison Between 45-70 and 30-06

The 45-70 and 30-06 are powerful ammunition initially designed for the American civil war and are now popular among modern-day hunters.

Their unique attributes, especially their penetrative ability and velocity, are perhaps their most distinguishing features.

Let’s take a look at a quick comparison analysis:

The two bullets can perform ideally for most shooting purposes but go for the lighter recoil variation if you have a standard rifle.

Therefore, how lever action rifles in use handle recoil matters. Take this as a safety measure for those around you if you operate in hunting groups.

In-Depth Analysis Between 45 70 vs 30 06

You’ll be pleased to know that the two quality cartridges are ideal for big-game shooting and only have small differences. The differences are easily tracked to the cons of either cartridge, recoil being one of the major distinguishing factors.

Gascho et al., (2019), in their research, further investigates their differences in terms of their characteristics at different energy levels.

Which Cartridge has the Better Velocity?

The 30-06 is a popular cartridge for its velocity, where its maximum flow speed is at 2820 fps. When targeting moving objects, the hunting cartridge comes in handy, bringing down mobile prey accurately.

When using a 150-grain 30-06, it bolts at a full velocity of 1,030 fps and increases significantly after 300 yards by 1,193 fps. This variety is a typical 325-grain ammunition with an average of 2,050 fps of muzzle energy.

On the other hand, the 45-70 Government rounds travel at 1680 fps. It, however, covers up for the compromised flow speed with excellent energy.

From 150 yards, the 45-70 Government performs effectively as one of the centerfire rifle cartridges, but its kinetic energy goes low at about double the distance.

So, ballistic performance comparisons are best made within 150-300 yards. Within the distance, the 45-70 bullet travels at 1,225 mph, which means the 30-06 is nearly twice as fast. It is outshined due to its heavier projectile and less powder charge.

You are lucky if you use marlin rifles for target shooting or participate in other activities utilizing similar ranges.

Also, when using a quality lever action rifle, you can achieve relatively more velocity from good muzzle power.

Muzzle Energy Comparisons Between 45-70 vs 30-06

The 45-70 round is a powerful cartridge for lever action rifles and is readily accessible. It has a shorter case length and features a straight-walled design.

Additionally, it has a larger bullet diameter and is heavier than other rounds, giving it more stopping power.

According to Hrdlicka (2003), when comparing stopping power, it’s obvious the 45-70 version works in your favor. However, the 30-06 caliber energy leads the two with 127-foot pounds out of the muzzle than the Government bullet.

Because the heavier slug loses velocity rapidly, this competitive edge rises to 543 ft. lbs. after 100 yards.

Research from Sanchez et al. (2016) adds that, at 300 yards, the 30-06 Springfield moves 865 ft. pounds faster than the 45-70, which is a significant difference.

As a result, the shorter and narrower 30-06 outperforms the government variety with more than twice the pressure.

The Availability of the Bullets

We found out that the 45-70 ammunition requires more material and has a larger dimension. This explains why this cartridge is expensive.

Additionally, these loads were crafted for use with lever-action firearms. The Marlin guide gun, since 1895, is one of the best guide guns for the 45-70.

Meanwhile, the 30-06 cartridges give you additional sure variations to select from compared to the government version. The 30-06 were military options, making them reliable for most uses, and their lower price point is a plus.

Moreover, they offer better variety in bullet weight categories (100gr-220gr) for small to big games.

Which has Better Trajectory

The trajectory of a bullet as it travels downrange is quantified in inches of bullet drop, impacting your ability to hit a target.

Due to its energy drop, the heavy bullet, 45-70 variety fails to match up well on long distances, but it gives back exceptional performance over short ranges. Here is the reason why:

Because these projectile models are less aerodynamic than a boat-tail Spitzer characteristic, they hemorrhage muzzle velocity at an astonishing rate.

As the ammo loses speed in flight, the gravitational pull has more opportunity to pull them toward the ground.

At 200 yards, the smokeless powder Government drops 10.3 inches.

The light 30-06 vs 45 70 excels in this category, having a much flatter direction of travel than the 45-70. As a result, these versions are among the commonly used cartridges in lever action rifles for mid-to-long-range hunting worldwide.

Therefore, flatter shooting ammunition is preferred over long-distance shooting. This factor is so because it needs fewer adjustments to the shooter’s scopes to make up the difference for bullet drop. A flatter path also implies that a cartridge is more tolerant of ranging errors.

The Bullets’ Recoil

Regarding the level of impact in 45 70 vs 30 06, the former has more recoil and can catch you off-guard if you’re not prepared for the blast.

When using a rifle with a smokeless powder 45-70 at rest, they’ll still produce a heavy recoil, even if you’re utilizing shooting sleds or sandbags.

Also, you should expect a worse experience when firing from a standing position. Unprepared shooters are frequently knocked backward when they fire in this position.

If necessary, take a wider stance and prepare before squeezing the trigger on a 45-70.

A photo showcasing various shooting positions and stances

When comparing 45-70 vs 30 06, the former appears to be a lightweight, despite having a significant recoil. A 30-06 will also cause a shooter’s flinch, maybe not with more recoil as a 45-70.

The 30-06 has approximately 14 ft-lbs of recoil energy, whereas the 45-70 Government variety has nearly 64 ft-lbs of energy imparted into a gunman’s shoulder. That’s twice as much.

The felt recoil is often forgotten or unrealized when you have a big bull, Cape buffalo, or black bear in your sights.

Target shooting on the range lacks the adrenaline rush that the thrill of the hunt can provide.

The Most Versatile Bullet

The 45-70 is effective against large game animal hunting but is a great cartridge between 200 and 300 yards. The massive slug of the government provides stopping power to bring down whitetail deer, bears, moose, bison, and elk at a close range.

If you intend to shoot at distances greater than 300 yards, opt for the 30-06 Springfield in your bolt action rifle. The 45-70 is ideal for large game hunting because it frequently requires stalking and closing the distance.

Accuracy Features

Accuracy is contextual when comparing 45 70 vs 30 06, which is highly dependent on the shooter and the gun used. Both factory loads are excellent for big game hunting.

The 45-70 has bone-crushing power at a short range. It is low in accuracy over long ranges due to its low velocity and less ballistic coefficient, which produce a relatively steep trajectory.

The 30-06 is a definite winner in terms of accuracy in long-range hunting due to its flatter trajectory. While using a quality bolt action rifle and scope within 300 yards, it gives exceptional accuracy per single shot.

These quality loads can maintain hypersonic speeds in a flatter trajectory for slightly more than 1000 yards before gravity and sit resistance impact it and begin to affect accuracy.

However, the contrast will become more difficult to ignore as the range increases.

Perhaps the 30-06 has a further advantage as you’ll unlikely flinch with its less recoil, while the 45-70 has a higher chance of distracting your stability/stance.

The Ballistics’ Coefficiency and Sectional Density

Simply put, the ballistic coefficient indicates a bullet’s aerodynamics. The higher the proportion, the greater your cartridge will perform in windy conditions.

Unlike the previous features, the 45-70 has a slight advantage in this situation as it is more powerful. Despite doing exceptionally well in the close and mid-range, 45-70 bullets suffer slightly in the long range.

As observed, heavier bullets typically have a higher coefficient count, but 30-06, as a lighter version, still finds a way to impress. Its aerodynamic model allows it to dominate the ballistic coefficient count even at longer distances.

Also, the bullet design plays a role in the ballistic coefficient factor. For instance, a 160 gr 30-06 will have more BC than a 325 gr 45-70 ballistic.

Social Density: Best Penetrative Power for Big Game Purposes

An ammunition’s Sectional Density (SD) determines how well it penetrates a target. This factor is critical in big hunting events because you need a bullet penetrating thick hide and bone.

Therefore, penetration is measured by comparing the mass and diameter of the projectile. The greater the SD, the further the bullet will infiltrate the target.

Consider this a simplified explanation of penetration because other factors, such as bullet expansion and velocity, are also in the picture.

The 45-70 is well renowned for its penetration, as it has been used successfully to hunt big games for bigger targets such as brown bears.

Is the 45-70 overkill? Yes, it may, but it accomplishes the task, and many buffalo hunters have successfully utilized it since the late 1800s.

When properly aimed, a large buck can get away after being hit by a 45-70 round. On the other hand, a deer will fall almost immediately if you hit it in the chest.

With the 30-06, it relies on its high-velocity power to form its ideal social density. It is suitable for deer hunting, having the edge for mid and long distances.

The high velocity and barely any disintegration localizes the penetration in one area to influence a deeper penetration.

Price Variations: Which is the Most Affordable?

Most of our comparisons revealed a recognizable disparity between the two ammunition, and the price section follows suit. Ironically, the government cartridge seeming to perform poorly is the most pricey.

On a 45-70 ammunition, you’ll have to use around $2.75/round for regular training versions and $5/round or more for premium hunting versions.

Regular 30-06 will cost about $1.50/round, while the premium rounds cost you double that.

The Cartridges Size Differences

We have so far touched on how the bullets’ designs can impact their performance.

Their size also affects how they are chambered. As a heavier slug, the 45-70’s is normally chambered in heavy loads because its projectile diameter is 0.458 inches, compared to 30 06 at 0.308 inches.

The cartridge length for the Government variety is 2.105 inches, while the 2.494-inch 30 06 Springfield towers over it.

Although the 45-70 ammunition is heavier, it can be holstered in a lighter rifle.

Which is Better for Hunting Deer?

Without a doubt, the two cartridges are capable of taking down various targets during a hunt. So, which provides the better all-around performance for the deer hunting purpose?

The 30-06 deer rifle is superior to a deer rifle. It is far more accurate over long distances, does not leave a large hole in the target, and is easier to shoot.

On the other hand, a 45-70 with a lower velocity and more significant expansion isn’t a great option of the two, destroying much meat with a poorly placed shot.

Unlike its competition, when traveling at over 2500 feet per second, the 30-06 does not destroy much of the target’s meat.

The 30-06 is a clear winner regarding range, accuracy, less recoil, and ammunition cost.

Meanwhile, the 45-70 does the job but is more expensive and puts a little more strain on your shoulder from its heavier recoil.

Which of the Cartridges Would You Choose for Lever Action Rifles?

The answer varies from one shooter to the other.

For the 45-7, it is still relatively popular among big game hunters in heavy cover and black-powder silhouette shooters.

Having been utilized in the Spanish-American war, we clearly understand why these cartridges are still popular with users.

In justification of their higher price as a standard cartridge, the big game heavy loads deliver bone-crushing muzzle energy, capable of hitting any target within 300 yards. If you love its output while hunting and have no issues with its cost or impact, go for the 45-70 variety.

On the other hand, if you prefer long-range hunting, we recommend the compact 30-06 to go with your bolt action rifle. These popular cartridges stopping power and long-range prowess will make your shooting purpose more dynamic in various hunting scenarios.

Also, many modern rounds cannot compete with the 30-06’s prominence and raw stopping power. They can bring down every four-legged animal in the North American region.

The 30-06 bullets are affordable; they give the total value for your money and won’t let you down in major shooting events.

Finally, the 45-70 is excellent for close-to-mid-range shooting, while the 30-08 is ideal for long-range targeting.

FAQ

Conclusion

That’s all on our tropic, 45-60 vs 30-06, with the latter emerging clear winner in terms of its smooth operation. The heavier 45-60 cartridge should be supported as a quality rifle.

So, which bullet stands out, and you’d select it for your upcoming hunting event/plan?

Comment below with your thoughts on our topic, and suggest which varieties we should analyze next.

References

1. Sanchez, D. M., Epps, C. W., & Taylor, D. S. (2016). Estimating Lead Fragmentation from Ammunition for Muzzleloading and Black Powder Cartridge Rifles. Journal of Fish and Wildlife Management, 7(2), 467-479. https://doi.org/10.3996/092015-jfwm-086
2. Daryl Hrdlicka. (2003). How hard does it hit? A revised study of atlatl and dart ballistics. The Atlatl, 16(2), 15-18. http://www.thudscave.com/npaa/articles/howhard_10-04.pdf
3. Gascho, D., Zoelch, N., Richter, H., Buehlmann, A., Wyss, P., & Schaerli, S. (2019). Identification of Bullets Based on Their Metallic Components and X-Ray Attenuation Characteristics at Different Energy Levels on CT. American Journal of Roentgenology, 213(3), W105-W113. https://doi.org/10.2214/ajr.19.21229
4. 30-30 vs 45-70 Which Lever Action Is Best For You? (2022, October 21). Big Game Hunting Blog. https://thebiggamehuntingblog.com/30-30-vs-45-70/
5. Herring, G., Eagles-Smith, C. A., Wolstenholme, R., Welch, A., West, C., & Rattner, B. A. (2022). Collateral damage: Anticoagulant rodenticides pose threats to California condors. Environmental Pollution, 311, 119925. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.envpol.2022.119925

Hunters who don’t pay attention to thermals likely won’t experience as much success, especially when bowhunting. Image by Bill Konway

After a tedious climb, I crested the ridgetop as a bugle rang out 250 yards below me. Carefully, I negotiated down the slope, scanning for a large tan shape amidst the dense timber as I descended. Eventually, I put my eyes on a cow elk. Glassing a little bit more, I soon turned up a second cow. Finally, the bull appeared in my binoculars. He was bedded down, bugling occasionally. At about 100 yards away, I didn’t dare take another step because one of the cows was facing me. I nocked an arrow and held tight, waiting for the elk to stand and hopefully wander closer.

But it wasn’t meant to be. Suddenly, I felt air pull downward, and a commotion ensued as the bull and his cows instantly rumbled downhill. I’d been busted. Although the wind had been steady higher up the ridge where I’d originally heard the first bugle, the morning shadows shifted, instigating a swirl that betrayed me, pulling my scent straight downhill to the bedded elk. Welcome to the world of thermals.

Elk live longer lives thanks to strong thermals. Image by John Hafner

WHAT ARE THERMALS?

From my point of view and experience with thermals while hunting, I describe them like this: Thermals are air currents that rise as the earth warms after sunrise and drop as it cools after sunset and through to the early morning hours. However, I was interested in a more scientific explanation, so I spoke with friend and meteorologist Mike Breunling of central Wisconsin.

“Thermals are small-scale phenomena that meteorologists classify as localized effects,” he said. “They’re small currents of heated air produced above a surface that is warmer and more buoyant than its immediate surroundings. There’s no magic to thermals. It’s just a situation in which a given locale is favorable for differential heating — one part of the earth’s surface is heated more than the immediate surrounding areas, which puts a circulation in motion.”

Thermals can happen anywhere and anytime where the earth’s surface is heated in a very small area more than surrounding areas.

“The surface in this context could be a forest or flat ground on the prairie,” Breunling said. “It could be rock outcroppings in a more topographically diverse region. The heat essentially sets the air into motion. When the air is heated, it tends to rise. As well, other atmospheric factors can determine to what extent the air will rise when it’s heated.

“Cold air will start to flow off from where the thermal originated and pool toward the low-lying areas as surfaces of the earth cool back down. The intensity and amount of cool air is based on how long the thermal was in existence in that given locale. Other atmospheric conditions also play a role in this. For example, if there isn’t much ambient wind, the thermal circulation is going to rule the day. But, if there is a greater prevailing wind, it can tend to mitigate the thermal’s intensity and thereby diminish some of the localized cooling effects that the thermal might produce.”

Knowing this, you can anticipate that elevations higher than the thermal will be warmer and elevations lower than the thermal will be cooler. This can help you make some educated hunting plans, which we’ll discuss next.

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When possible, whitetails almost always use thermals to their benefit. Image by Russell Graves

THERMALS AND HUNTING PLANS

Although Breunling isn’t a hunter, his long meteorology career positions him to talk about how hunters might become more effective in the presence of thermals.

“Over time, the more one hunts in a specific environment — perhaps wooded, hilly or even mountainous terrain, for example — the better they will come to understand how thermals work in very specific locations,” he said. “You’ll begin to understand thermal circulations for each location and can make plans accordingly. There are all types of varying situations, so when you get to know the topography and surroundings, then it’s a matter of whether or not the overall atmospheric conditions are favorable to allow thermals to form and to what degree of intensity.”

You can typically count on some basics. If you’re hunting whitetails in a draw that connects a valley to a ridge top during late afternoon, you can anticipate thermals to cause an air circulation that floods down the draw toward the valley as the sun sets, taking your scent with it. When you’re at the top of a ridge at noon on a sunny day and want to approach a bugling bull elk on a bench below, the thermals will typically draw your scent uphill away from the elk — the exception being if a prevailing wind is overriding or mitigating the thermals.

One of the most effective ways to hunt elk or mule deer in mountainous topography is to approach along a sidehill at the same elevation as the animal. Whether the thermals are falling or rising, you should be in a safe zone approaching from the sidehill in most cases.

It’s risky to approach an animal on foot when the thermals are switching from falling to rising at sunrise or from rising to falling around sunset. If you use a wind checker at this time, you’ll notice the powder often swirls erratically. There are many inconsistencies as the shift occurs, and I’ve been busted by elk numerous times in these instances. You’re better off waiting for the thermals to fully stabilize before approaching.

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Deer, elk, and other big game animals are difficult to tag, especially if the thermals are in their favor. Image by Bill Konway

PUTTING IT ALL TOGETHER

Back up the mountain, I was chasing a herd bull that was being badgered by multiple satellite bulls. It was a magical morning when they just didn’t stop bugling. Managing the thermals as I shadowed the herd was difficult, but I monitored them closely with my wind checker.

Finally, at about noon, I slipped into a situation I knew would work. A bull was bugling at roughly my same level, and another bull bugled beneath me about 100 yards away. I worked in between the two bulls, knowing the heated landscape would keep the thermal circulation going uphill. I no more than nocked an arrow when the bull below me appeared and was walking directly at me.

I drew back when he was 50 yards out, and soon after, when he paused to assess the bowhunter standing 14 yards away, I shot him perfectly through the front of the chest. He ran a little more than 100 yards before going down. I’d waited for the thermals to be consistent and for the right opportunity to strike, and the good Lord blessed my plans.

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When you understand thermals, it will be much easier to get within bow range of big game. Image by Bill Konway

CONCLUSION

If you haven’t paid much attention to thermals or just haven’t quite figured them out, you might be limiting your success and giving the animals you hunt an edge. For the most part, thermals can be predictable at certain times of day, especially given clear, sunny conditions, and a lack of wind. Of course, there are also times when they’re unpredictable, such as cloudy days or right at sunrise or sunset. But, the more you hunt in a given location, the more you’ll understand how they work in that spot and how to hunt more effectively around them.

Most shooters’ usual perception of air guns is that they’re for target shooting, but hunters have been using these weapons for hunting since the 15th century. During these times, air rifles were expensive and only used by the rich. Over time, technology improved to the point that mass-produced examples are now available to the public at affordable prices.

Today, air guns are still used for hunting, especially for small game. “Small game” refers to animals like ducks, squirrels, turkeys, and many other species. Not all of these creatures are sought after for meat, as some prefer to hunt for sport.

No matter your reason for hunting, it’s best to arm yourself with a reliable air gun. They’re much quieter than unsuppressed firearms and usually less regulated. Some states are more air rifle-friendly, making them a viable choice instead of owning a small-bore hunting rifle.

Below are six of the best air rifles for hunting small game. They possess enough firepower to kill prey ethically, and you can even mount accessories on them. Read on to find out all about them.

Gamo Swarm Fusion 10X Gen2 Multi-Shot Air Rifle .177 Cal, Black

Gamo’s Swarm Fusion 10X Gen 2 Air Rifle is a sleek yet powerful weapon. It can propel .177 caliber pellets at 1,300 FPS, a muzzle velocity sufficient for quick and painless kills. The rifle achieves this via Gamo’s Inert Gas Technology gas piston, a powerful component that doesn’t kick hard.

The rifle has a built-in Whisper Fusion system for less noise when you shoot, forcing the gasses inside chambers that dampen sound.

The internal magazine holds 10 pellets, though you need to break the action open after every shot. Shooting is effortless thanks to a customizable two-stage trigger and recoil-absorbing buttpad. Your shots will only hit where you want them to go.

A 3-9x40mm scope is included in the package, and it will attach to the rifle using 11mm dovetail scope mounts. The rails are also isolated from the gun to reduce scope shaking. If you don’t want to use the scope, the iron sights will work in low-light conditions, perfect for handling pests at night.

The all-weather stock is made of black polymer, a light but durable material that endures field use easily. Its design is ergonomic and molded to fit shoulders.

Specifications

• 1,300 FPS

• .177 caliber pellets

• 10 rounds in the magazine

• Scope included

• Highly customizable

• Break action

Gamo Swarm Maxxim 10X GEN 2 Multi-Shot Air Rifle .177 Cal, Black

Compared to the Gamo Swarm Fusion 10X, the Swarm Maxxim 10X is an older model, the second generation of the first-ever repeating 10-shot air rifle. It’s more affordable than the Fusion, but don’t count this weapon out. You can still shoot very quickly and accurately with it.

The Swarm Maxxim 10X Gen 2 has an upgraded magazine that sits lower to the barrel. It won’t interfere with the optics as a result. As the name suggests, the air rifle holds 10 rounds at most.

Thanks to the Custom Action Trigger, you can adjust the trigger pull’s two stages to your preferences. Doing so allows your finger muscles to shoot without feeling awkward, as everyone has a different comfort zone.

Gamo’s patented Whisper sound dampening technology is also mounted onto the barrel. It will capture the gasses that propel the pellet out, reducing the noise produced. That way, you can hunt without causing a disturbance.

With the help of a recoil-reducing scope rail and rubber buttpad, you can expect to shoot accurately. The included 3-9×40 scope will fit the 11mm dovetail scope mount.

Specifications

• 1,300 FPS

• .177 caliber pellets

• 10 rounds in the magazine

• Scope included

• Highly customizable

• Break action

Crosman Valiant SBD Air Rifle, Nitro Piston Elite .177 cal, Wood

Unlike the two Gamo air rifles above, this Crosman Valiant SBD is a single-shot weapon. It has no magazine for extra shots, meaning you need to reload every time. However, there are advantages to a single-shot gun.

Precision is the main benefit, as repeaters promote rapid fire. Single-shot guns also conserve ammunition and prevent misfires since you can’t stuff more than one into the chamber.

Crosman’s experience with air guns led it to employ a Nitro Gas Piston Elite instead of a steel spring. As a result, it can retain its strength despite staying cocked for hours, and the cocking action is smoother. What’s more, it works perfectly fine in adverse weather.

The Clean Break Trigger on this rifle has two stages when pulling, allowing shooters to pull the trigger slowly for a perfect shot. The stages are also adjustable according to your preferences.

As the rifle is meant for single shots, the barrel is a fine example of engineering. The rifling is precise and optimizes the pellet spin. There are also mounted iron sights on the barrel if you don’t want to use optics.

By default, the package comes with a CenterPoint 4x32mm scope, a fixed zoom optic that mounts onto the 11mm dovetail rail.

Specifications

• 1,400 FPS

• .177 caliber pellets

• Single-shot only

• Scope included

• Wooden stock

• 70% less noise

• Break action

Crosman Shockwave NP QuietFire Air Rifle .22 cal w/lead pellet, Black

Those who want a .22 caliber single-shot air rifle will appreciate this Crosman Shockwave NP QuietFire Air Rifle. It’s painted black, and the polymer furniture is also of the same color. You can use it in any weather conditions due to its polymer stock.

Thanks to the Nitro Piston power plant, this air rifle can deliver performance most springs can’t. Springs can’t deliver 950 FPS after staying cocked for hours, but the Piston can. You’ll also find the weapon easier to cock quickly.

The QuietFire technology mounted on the barrel near the muzzle also helps reduce noise levels. It forces air to pass through two chambers, decreasing sound as it exits them. Thus, you can hunt for small game in larger numbers.

Good hunters know the importance of getting familiar with their weapons, and customization helps them create their perfect rifle. With the two-stage adjustable trigger, anyone can set where each stage is located.

You get a fixed magnification scope that mounts to dovetail rails on top of the bolt with the rifle.

Specifications

• 975 FPS

• .22 caliber pellets

• Single-shot only

• Scope included

• Synthetic stock

• 70% less noise

• Break action

Crosman MAG-Fire Mission Multi-Shot Breakbarrel Air Rifle .22 cal, Black

With this MAG-Fire Mission Air Rifle, hunting down pests and small game won’t be an issue. The magazine contains 10 rounds for this .22 caliber version, and the powerful Nitro Piston Elite propels them at 975 FPS. If there’s more than one animal, the MAG-Fire Mission can hit them all.

Crosman integrated its patented Quietfire technology into the barrel to reduce the rifle’s report. It helps reduce the sound immensely, so the small game doesn’t get startled as frequently. However, it doesn’t suppress the weapon entirely because ammunition is also a factor.

Accuracy is the name of the MAG-Fire Mission’s game. Several of its features are optimized for landing shots exactly where you want them. The rifled steel barrel, 11mm dovetail rail, and 4x32mm scope are all there for precise marksmanship.

That’s not all because you can also adjust the two-stage Clean Break Trigger on the rifle.

Hunting can occur in any location and weather condition, so your air rifle should be capable of withstanding damage. Although wooden stocks are beautiful, they may scratch and crack. In contrast, the thumbhole synthetic stock is ergonomic and lightweight, allowing hunters to carry this rifle for long periods without tiring.

Polymer stocks are also highly resistant to cracking, so you can expect them to stay intact despite some rougher treatment.

Despite this many components, Crosman opted to go for simplicity. The fewer moving parts there are, the lower the chances of malfunctioning.

Specifications

• 975 FPS

• .22 caliber pellets

• 10 rounds in the magazine

• Scope included

• Synthetic stock

• 70% less noise

• Break action

Umarex Hammer .50 cal Air Rifle, OD Green/Black

While .50 caliber air rifles were designed for big game, nothing prevents you from hunting small game with them. However, you do have to be aware that .50 leaves a larger bullet hole in the animal, so it may ruin the meat if you want to eat it. That said, Umarex’s Hammer air rifle is a powerhouse.

You can load this air rifle with heavier slugs and still expect to hit 760 FPS. This velocity might not be much, but the bullet retains more energy than lighter slugs. Thus, it will do extra damage to whatever you’re shooting.

The Hammer has two shots in the magazine, and the PCP tank has enough for three shots at 100%. The fourth shot will reach around 90% of maximum velocity before requiring a gas refill.

Besides the Picatinny top rail, you also have side M-LOK rails for extra accessories like lights and lasers. These help in low-light conditions or for aiming.

The German firearms company Walther manufacturers the barrels on the Umarex Hammer, giving it a 1:24 twist that helps the .50 caliber slug fly true. The barrel will last for years, a testament to German engineering and Walther’s almost 200 years of experience.

Specifications

• 760 FPS

• .50 caliber pellets

• Two rounds in the magazine

• M-LOK rails

• Synthetic stock

• 1:24 twist optimized for .50 caliber slugs

• Straight pull bolt action

Frequently Asked Questions

What pellets are better for small game?

.177 caliber and .22 caliber pellets can work for small game. The former is usually lighter and retains less energy, despite being faster. Therefore, it may not lead to a clean and humane kill in some cases.

In contrast, .22 caliber pellets are generally slower but heavier, retaining more energy despite the lower muzzle velocity. Most people consider it the smallest caliber for hunting small game.

Despite this, it’s possible to hunt for small game with .177 caliber pellets. It takes more practice to nail an ethical kill, but it’s still doable. The caliber is more suited for the smallest of small game and pests.

No matter what rifle you own, make sure it’s powerful enough to take small game down before you go hunting. You don’t want the animal to suffer from a weak shot, so letting them pass on painlessly is the best option.

Can any scope work on an air gun?

No, as spring guns and piston rifles are actually very forceful weapons in terms of recoil and kick compared to firearms. They may damage your scope badly after extended use as the mechanisms produce a lot of vibrations. Therefore, it’s best to mount a dedicated optic on your air rifle for longevity.

Some air guns offset the problem by isolating the rails, but it’s not a foolproof solution. You’ll find air rifle-specific optics much better than a standard rifle scope you mount on your .22 LR plinking rifle.

Despite the magnification, air gun scopes may also be designed to work better at closer ranges. Therefore, they will be easier to sight in after a shooting session. Firearm scopes may not cooperate with the air rifle this way, so their performances can be subpar.

An Alternative Method

Most hunters still prefer using firearms for small game, as cartridges are powerful and easy to obtain. However, air rifle hunting only rose in popularity decades ago, and companies continue to innovate and release better weapons.

It’s possible to grab your air rifle, cock it, and take out the squirrel in your yard without the neighbors finding out. Air gun technology has become advanced to the point that they make very little noise. No one will find out you’re doing pest control on your property.

The air rifles we covered range from repeaters to single-shot guns. Whether you prefer making one precise shot or taking out several creatures, there’s something for everyone here. The rifles are also optimized for hunting, with enough velocity and retained energy to propel projectiles at acceptable speeds.

Air guns are safer in most cases, and they’re often quieter. Hunters prefer their prey to stay close for a shot, so scaring them away is less likely to happen with air rifles. However, consult your local laws before purchasing an air rifle.

Limiting the best rifle calibers to only three options can be a daunting task when considering most big-game animals, and this can be especially true when referring to wild hogs. Any avid hunter knows that these pigs can come in many different shapes and sizes, making it a challenge to select that caliber of choice in order to bring home the bacon. For some, it’s all about that massive, trophy hog, commonly referred to within the hunting community as “Hogzilla.” However, some hunters might just want to take what they can get considering the destruction these razorbacks cause to farmers. Plus, the smaller ones make great table fare as well.

Regardless of what category you fall into, these three caliber options, proven by the evidence in each entry’s video, will pack the punch you need to bring some boars down and put some bacon on the grill.

1. .308 Winchester

It seems firearms chambered in .308 Win. get the job done the best. Some great firearm choices for hog hunting, when chambered in .308, are the Smith and Wesson M&P 10 and the Browning BAR ShorTrac Hog Stalker.

If for some reason you have doubts about shooting this ammo at a wild boar, or anything while big game hunting, just take a look at what happens at the 3:25 mark in the video!

2. .30-06 Springfield

Very similar to the .308, the .30-06 has been one of the most widely used whitetail deer hunting rifles a long, long time. Well, guess what? It works great for shooting hogs, too. This caliber is accurate, powerful and deadly, even in the hands of novice hunters.

To check out a great summation of the differences between the way each performs in the field, listen to this guy break down the nitty gritty.

3. .270 Winchester

Also known as a deer rifle, the .270 is just simple and effective. With the right shot placement on a broadside pig, a bolt-action .270 packs enough punch and penetration to get the job done on the little piglets, as well as the full-grown feral hogs!

Be sure to jump to the 4:55 mark in the video to see the way a .270 can make a Texas hog drop right in its tracks from long range!

If you’ve spent any time chasing these razorbacks through the southern terrain, you know just how tough these animals are, and how much damage they can take and still continue to keep running. Using a rifle caliber that is proven to be deadly is always a plus, but nothing replaces steady aim and ethical shot placements, regardless of what gun you are using.

Some people might be surprised that the Remington .223 didn’t make the list, but honestly, these calibers listed speak for themselves in regards to their lethality on feral hogs. Having said that, deciding which caliber to use really depends on your experience and comfortability with certain rifles, and this should just serve as a great baseline and information resource. The important part is that you get out there, enjoy the great outdoors, help battle this country’s ruthless hog problem, and bring home some of the best wild game nature has to offer.

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Even if you’re brand new to archery, you’ve probably heard the term bow sight before. But what is it, and why is it significant?

Bow sight refers to a component of the bow that allows you to adjust your aim to shoot more accurately. When it’s not calibrated correctly, however, it can lead to accuracy issues. Bow sight adjustments rectify this.

Now that we’ve squared away those basics, it’s time to get more in-depth about how to adjust a bow sight so you can shoot with pinpoint accuracy. Ready? Let’s dive in now!

What Is a Bow Sight & Why Does It Matter?

Bow sights are the part of an archery bow that allows you to adjust your sightlines and aim your bow better to create a perfectly-aligned shot. Shooting with laser precision is possible with a bow sight, so long as you move the sight pins to their proper spots, which can be done by adjusting the sight housing.

Four Common Types of Archery Bows

Not all archery bows are created equal. In fact, bows come in four main types:

1. Recurve
2. Longbow
3. Compound
4. Crossbow

The compound bow is perhaps the most common type, but bow sights across all four types of bows are, by and large, fairly similar. Thus, the process for adjusting a bow sight on different bows should be fairly similar as well.

When it comes to compound bow sight adjustment, the more pressing question is whether or not your bow sight is single-pin or multi-pin.

How to Recognize It’s Time for a Bow Sight Adjustment

Are you sighting properly and still not hitting the target? Is it happening again and again? It’s probably not your aim that’s at fault, but rather, the way your bow sight is calibrated.

How to Level Your Bow Sight

Before you get to adjusting a bow sight, you need to adjust the leveling of the sight. There are several axes to adjust the leveling, including a second axis and a third axis.

The second axis level can be seen through the hole of the sight. Imagine hanging a picture on a wall and leveling it. That’s second-axis leveling. Now, imagine leaning a picture up against a wall vs. hanging it straight up and down: that’s third-axis leveling, which is important if you’re going to be shooting at angles (i.e on the unlevel ground).

Leveling in either instance is as simple as loosening the sight (via allen wrench, normally) and then adjusting until the bubble of the level is centered.

How to Adjust Compound Bow Sight: Single vs. Multi-Pin

Adjusting a bow sight looks different when the bow sight in question is single-pin compared to multi-pin. Let’s break down the steps of bow sight adjustment for each type of pin setup below.

Adjusting a Multi-Pin Bow Sight

Most archers today use multi-pin bow sights. They employ a range of site pins – normally, three, five, or seven – that can be set as aiming references for different distances – normally, 20 yards, 30 yards, 40 yards, 50 yards, and 60 yards. Often, the 20-yard pin will be the top pin and the 60-yard pin will be the bottom pin.

If it’s your first time shooting with a new sight, you’ll have to calibrate it, since you won’t know where your arrow will hit compared to the pins.

Though the highest pin will generally be 20 yards, it’s recommended to start shooting from a distance of 10 yards, using a large target so there’s more margin of error for adjustment.

Shoot, aiming for the bulls-eye, and take note of where the arrow lands. If it is too far in one direction, you’ll want to move the sight in that same direction (i.e. if your arrow hits the left of the bulls-eye, you move the sight housing left). Adjusting the sight is generally done with an allen wrench, which you can buy at any archery shop.

Once you’ve calibrated the pin for 20 yards, you’ll move to each subsequent pin. It’s important to note that you don’t want to move the pins themselves. You want the pins set in their original position until after you’ve calibrated the bow sight entirely. Then, as you shoot, you can move each pin within the sight if needed for minor adjustments.

Adjusting a Single-Pin Bow Sight

Sighting in a single-pin bow can be harder than in a multi-pin sight because it’s difficult to gauge your initial adjustments. That said, the process of actually making those adjustments is fairly simple.

The fundamentals of sight adjustment are the same: make sure you’re adjusting the sight and taking note of where your arrows are landing in relation to the target.

To adjust a single-pin bow sight, you’ll want to loosen the scope housing, then adjust it up and down to shoot from different distances.

You can also move your scope left and right by loosening the scope and re-tightening it.

Discover AccowBow Training Bows

If all the above seems like it’s overly complex, we understand. Archery is a sport that takes practice. But if you’re looking to up your archery game, AccowBow can help! Explore high-quality archery training devices. Try out the 1.0 model or 2.0 second version, and you’ll be shooting like a pro in no time.

You’ve decided to hatch your own chickens, but there are hundreds of egg incubators to choose from. How do you pick the best one for you?!

I’ve been hatching chicken eggs for years and have used several different incubators along the way. I’ve had great successes and failures, both of which I’ve learned a lot from.

Choosing the best egg incubator for you is a make or break decision. When it comes to incubators, you really do get what you pay for. However, that doesn’t mean you need to go buy a professional-grade incubator for $3,000.

In this comprehensive article, I break down 8 of the best egg incubators in 2024 for backyard or homestead chicken keepers. I’ll also provide direct links to the product so that you don’t have to go searching around!

Let’s jump in!

*Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links to products (including Amazon). I’ll earn a small commission if you make a purchase through my link, at no additional cost to you! Regardless, I only link to products that I personally use on our homestead or believe in.

Key Features of the Best Egg Incubators

Incubators come in a wide variety of options as far as size, style, features and price are concerned. It can be overwhelming just searching through them all. Let’s chat about the key features that I look for when shopping for the best egg incubators on the market.

Airflow

All incubators should have vents for air exchange (developing eggs are living and breathing!), but there are 2 types of airflow methods that are important to pay attention to: still-air and forced-air.

• Still-Air Incubator: This is the most basic form that you’ll find in cheap incubators. It relies on simple gravity to naturally circulate the air with a concept similar to a still room with no vents. This often produces hot and cold spots throughout the incubator, resulting in a poor hatch with some chicks hatching early, and some hatching late.
• Forced-Air Incubator: This type of incubator has a built-in fan to evenly distribute the warm, humid air. This results in all of your eggs developing similarly and often, a better overall hatch. Splurging for forced-air is worth every penny in my opinion.

Automated Temperature

This is absolutely critical. Just a 1 degree difference can impact your hatch.

• If it runs 1 degree high, you’ll have an early hatch with chicks prone to splayed legs and trouble walking.
• If it runs 1 degree low, you’ll have a late hatch with chicks prone to crooked toes, thin legs and unhealed navels.

Therefore, it’s helpful to have an incubator that automatically adjusts throughout the day to keep things stable. Such peace of mind! If your incubator has a manual turn dial for temperature and your room temperature goes up… your incubator temperature will also go up.

Tip #1: Verify that your incubator is forced-air or still-air. Forced-air incubators require a temperature of 99.5 degrees where still-air incubators require 102 degrees, however this is a general guideline and I would follow the instructions in your operating manual.

Tip #2: Make sure that you have several additional thermometers placed in your incubator (placed at the height of the top of the eggs) to confirm that your built-in thermometer is reading true. I like to use probe thermometers and poke them through a vent hole. It is common for cheap incubators to run hot or cold. I’ve definitely had my own share of hatch losses due to incorrectly calibrated thermometers!

Humidity Control

Humidity is one of the hardest things to get right, in my opinion. A lot of smaller egg incubators rely on manual addition of water to channels built into the bottom of the incubator. Not only is this easy to forget about and makes travel impossible, but it’s not very adjustable either. Plus, in most models, you need to open the incubator to make adjustments, which is not ideal during the hatch.

If you can find an incubator that automatically draws in and adjusts humidity based on your settings, it’s worth the extra cost. I’ve even gone on international vacations while my automatic incubators were running and could relax knowing they were taking care of it all for me 🙂

Thankfully, the success of the hatch weighs more heavily on overall humidity throughout the hatch and spikes aren’t as big of a deal. However, is important to get it right because:

• If humidity runs too high, then the egg doesn’t lose enough moisture resulting in large chicks that can drown at hatching time.
• If humidity runs too low, then the egg loses too much moisture resulting in “shrink-wrapped” chicks that fail to hatch.

I’ve found my hatch successes to vary even by adjusting the humidity by 3-5%! You’d never be able to achieve that precision with manual adjustments. To verify that your humidity setting is correct, I highly recommend buying TWO of these hygrometers (only $5!). The cheaper incubators are notorious for having poorly calibrated digital displays, so using these will make sure you’re on track.

Digital Display

This is a slick option so you can easily adjust the settings and quickly check the status of your incubator at any time. Most egg incubators today come with a digital display.

Egg Turner

In nature, a mother hen will periodically adjust her eggs and rotate them throughout the day. When incubating, this practice needs to be mimicked as much as possible because rotating allows the yolk to remain centered in the middle of the egg vs sticking to the side.

Chicken eggs need to be rotated from side-to-side a minimum of 3 times per day, every single day, for the first 18 days of the 21 day incubation period.

If this seems like too much for you, definitely invest in an incubator that has an automatic turner. I like this option because it means less opening of the incubator (resulting in temperature and humidity fluctuations), plus reduces the risk of accidental egg trauma.

Alarm

Some egg incubators feature an alarm that goes off anytime the temperature goes above or below your predetermined “safe zone.” This can alert you to intervene before things go south.

Capacity

There is no one right answer to this question; it all comes down to what is best for you. Incubators can be as small as holding just 5 eggs or they can hold hundreds!

Think about your goals and how many chicks you realistically want to hatch:

• If you live in the city and can only have 5 hens, go for a small size. Keep in mind that roughly 50% will end up being roosters; plus, your hatch rate will likely be 50-80%. Therefore, if you want to end up with 5 hens, I’d plan to incubate 20 eggs to be safe.
• If you live in the country and/or are thinking about routinely hatching chicks to sell them to your community as a side hobby, definitely go big! I started with a 28 egg incubator and rapidly outgrew that size.

My rule of thumb is to always go bigger than you think you need. Hatching is highly addicting and you’ll be expanding before you know it!

Ease of Cleaning

This is super important because hatching is messy and ensuring sanitary conditions for the next round is critical for its success. If your incubator doesn’t come apart easily, or if it is made of styrofoam (notorious for being hard to clean), then you’ll have trouble with this. Plastic is the best choice.

Viewing Window

This is not absolutely necessary, but it makes hatching so much more fun! When hatching starts, you’ll often find me with a chair pulled up and my nose pressed to the glass watching all of my new chicks hatch!

8 Best Egg Incubators in 2024

Now that you know what to look for, let’s get into some of the best egg incubators on the market! If you’re willing to purchase an incubator through my links below (at no additional cost to you!), I’ll make a small profit, which allows me to keep sharing content with you awesome people. Thank you!

8 Best Egg Incubators in 2024

Want more details about each of these incubators? No problem; I’ve got you covered!

#1 Brinsea Mini II EX

If your goal is to have a small backyard flock, look no further! Brinsea is my absolute favorite brand of incubator. All of their products are high quality, reliable, easy to clean and come with a 3 year warranty (as long as you register your product).

The Brinsea Mini II EX holds 7 eggs, so this is a great place to start. Brinsea has 3 lines for each incubator: Eco, Adv & EX. While the EX line is more expensive, it has fully automatic humidity control and is worth every penny in my opinion. I’ve gone on vacation with mine running and didn’t have to stress one bit!

#2 Brinsea Mini II Advance

While my favorite Brinsea incubator is the EX line, I know that not everyone wants to shell out hundreds of dollars on an incubator. Therefore, the Mini II Advance is another excellent option from this same dependable company. The reduction in price comes from the manual humidity control compared to the Mini II EX.

It still has automatic temperature control, an egg turner, a great viewing window and it’s easy to clean. You can even adjust the intervals that your eggs are turned from 15 to 180 minutes. This is a best-of-both-worlds option!

TIP: If you have plans to hatch duck eggs, look for a larger incubator. This one is a bit too small for ducklings.

#3 KEBONNIXS 12 Egg Incubator

Fertile eggs are often sold by the dozen, so the fact that this incubator holds 12 eggs is great! It has a digital display of humidity and temperature, however, I highly recommend verifying their accuracy by adding your own thermometer and hygrometer. While this model requires you to manually add water to control the humidity, it is nice that you can add water externally. No need to open the lid!

This model also features a built-in egg candler so you can watch your baby chicks develop. Plus, the egg turner automatically stops 3 days before the hatch so that you don’t have to remember to turn it off.

TIP: The flooring is slick and can result in the chicks slipping and injuring their legs, so consider adding a layer of traction material to the bottom.

#4 Brinsea Ovation 28 EX

The Brinsea Ovation 28 EX is my absolute favorite incubator. Hands down. I’ve been debating buying a second one just because I love it so much. It really is the perfect size and I’ve had excellent hatches every single time.

It is fully automatic so it’s a true “set it and forget it” kind of incubator. I’ve gone on international vacations with this thing running and I didn’t have to worry about it at all! All of the pieces come apart for easy cleaning and it has a big viewing window to watch the hatch.

The best part of this incubator is how accurate and precise it is. I’ve thrown multiple thermometers and hygrometers in there to cross-check and this incubator is calibrated perfectly. I love that I don’t have to fuss with it or worry that something is off.

TIP: Don’t feel like you need to buy fancy replacement humidity sponges from the supplier. I just cut up basic $2 kitchen sponges that I find at the grocery store and it works great!

#5 Manna Pro Nurture Right 360 Incubator

The Manna Pro Nurture Right 360 Incubator is a great budget pick if you want to hatch a decent number of eggs (it fits 22). It is fully automatic, with the exception of humidity control. You’ll need to manually add water yourself to keep it consistent. A nice feature is that it has a 21 day countdown and automatically stops turning the eggs 3 days before the hatch.

Based on the reviews, the negatives are that the turner tends to struggle to turn heavier eggs and it beeps loudly when the turner engages. The built-in egg candler is also pretty weak. Lastly, this incubator can be more challenging to clean.

TIP: Be careful when removing the lid. It can be easy for eggs or chicks to fall out because there is no lip on the edges.

#6 IncuView All-In-One Automatic Egg Incubator

This incubator provides an incredible hatching experience with its large viewing window. You won’t miss a thing!

While it doesn’t feature automatic humidity control like the Brinsea models, it does provide digital display of humidity. Based on the reviews, the humidity levels do seem to fluctuate widely and need daily tweaking to hit your goal. As I’ve mentioned before, don’t trust that number alone! Always add an extra hygrometer or two to make sure it’s properly calibrated.

#7 Brinsea Ovation 56 EX

This is the big brother to my favorite incubator the Brinsea Ovation 28 EX. It’s also fully automatic, but twice as big. If you’re really wanting to hatch lots of chicks, this is an excellent option if you have the space.

It is fully automatic so it’s a true “set it and forget it” kind of incubator. I’ve gone on international vacations with this thing running and I didn’t have to worry about it at all! All of the pieces come apart for easy cleaning and it has a big viewing window to watch the hatch.

The best part of this incubator is how accurate and precise it is. I’ve thrown multiple thermometers and hygrometers in there to cross-check and this incubator is calibrated perfectly. I love that I don’t have to fuss with it or worry that something is off.

TIP: Don’t feel like you need to buy fancy replacement humidity sponges from the supplier. I just cut up basic $2 kitchen sponges that I find at the grocery store and it works great!

#8 HovaBator Genesis 1588

This wouldn’t be a complete incubator list without the classic foam incubator. While I have a love-hate relationship with them, this is often where most of us begin our incubating journey! They can be finicky and definitely require multiple thermometers and hygrometers, but this is an inexpensive way to hatch a lot of eggs.

TIP: I highly recommend placing a minimum of TWO hygrometers and TWO external thermometers (reading at a height at the top of the eggs) to verify that everything is running as it should.

While there are a lot of foam incubators out there that look similar to the HovaBator Genesis 1588 (and are a bit cheaper), don’t get swayed by the other options. I know you saw that $50 one at Tractor Supply… don’t do it! Many of them are junk and there’s nothing more heartbreaking than losing an entire hatch. I spent some time digging into each one and this one really seems to be the best budget-friendly pick out of them all.

Other Articles You’ll Love:

• Hatching Chicken Eggs: The Ultimate Beginner’s Guide
• Candling Chicken Eggs: Day-By-Day Development
• Brooding in Poultry: Everything You Need to Know!
• How to Care for Chickens: A Beginner’s Guide

Summary

That was fun! I hope you found this helpful in picking the perfect incubator for you and your homestead. As you can see, egg incubators come in many different styles, features and price points and we only covered 7 of them! It’s a small investment, so definitely spend some time reflecting on my 8 best egg incubators table to really feel out which one seems like the right fit. You can’t go wrong with any of them, really!

Once your incubator arrives, read the instruction manual and let it run for a minimum of 24 hours. After 24 hours, make sure to double-check its accuracy by inserting additional thermometers and hygrometers. If your digital reading is off, adjust your settings as needed.

Are you curious how to actually go about incubating eggs? This article by Backyard Chickens is the exact one that I learned from years ago. Then, once your chicks hatch, you’ll definitely want to check out my best tips for Brooding in Poultry.

If you liked this article, you’ll definitely want to read my article Cooking a Rooster: The Basics for when you end up with extra roosters after hatching! It’s wonderful to keep a couple good roosters around, but keeping more than your flock can handle can lead to fights and stress on your hens.

Happy hatching! 🙂

There is a clear winner when we compare the 260 Remington vs 6.5 Creedmoor, but it’s not for the reasons you might think.

Both rounds have similar ballistics and fulfill a similar purpose, but there’s an important reason why the 6.5 Creedmoor is the caliber, so many hunters and shooters choose.

260 Remington vs 6.5 Creedmoor

Few other calibers are as close to comparing apples to apples as these two because the cartridges have minute differences in size and shoot the same diameter bullet.

Cartridge Specs

The bullet diameter for both rounds is .264″, and the rim diameter of the cartridge is the same at .473″.

The difference lies in the case. The 260 Rem has a case length of 2.035″. The 6.5 Creedmoor is slightly shorter at 1.92″.

One might conclude that the 260 has a longer maximum overall length; however, that’s not the case.

The 6.5 Creedmoor has an overall length of 2.825″, and the 260 Reming has an overall length of 2.80″.

The 260 Remington has a 20-degree shoulder angle, and the 6.5 Creedmoor has a 30-degree shoulder angle.

The 260 Remington has a max pressure (SAAMI) of 60,00 psi that stems from a powder capacity of 53.5 gr H2O.

The 6.5 Creedmoor has a higher max pressure of 62,000 psi with a case capacity of 52.5 gr H20.

6.5 Creedmoor vs 260 Remington: Recoil

Unless you’re a young buck trying to prove yourself to the world, you would agree less recoil is better.

It’s much easier to be accurate with a lower recoil round.

Many factors go into calculating recoil, such as the gun weight, shooter, bullet size, and amount of powder in the case.

For the sake of the comparison, we’re going to assume all things are as equal as possible.

When we do this, we see that these rounds have similar amounts of recoil.

The 260 Rem has 15.65 ft-lbs of felt recoil, and the 6.5 Creedmoor has 15.03 ft-lbs of recoil.

The difference is so minimal the average person won’t be able to tell the difference.

Technically, the 6.5 Creedmoor has less recoil, so it wins this section.

Trajectory

Due to gravity, the path it takes when we fire a bullet is an arch. Otherwise known as the bullet trajectory.

It’s much easier to be accurate with a flat shooting bullet, especially at long ranges.

This is why the 6.5 Creedmoor is a favorite amongst long-range shooters.

A 120gr bullet zeroed in at 200 yards has a bullet drop of 7.5″ at 300yds and 44.4″ of drop at 500yds.

A 140gr 6.5 Creedmoor bullet has 9″ of drop at 300 yards and 53.7″ of bullet drop at 500yds when zeroed in at 200 yards.

It might surprise you that the 260 Remington has a flatter trajectory.

A 120gr 260 Rem bullet, zeroed in at 200 yards, only drops 7.2″ at 300 yards and 42.8″ at 500yds.

A 140-grain bullet drops 8.2″ at 300yds and 48.7″ at 500 yards when zeroed in at 200 yards.

The winner is the 260 Remington.

260 Rem vs 6.5 Creedmoor: Accuracy

Accuracy is another section that many factors play a role in determining.

The rifle, recoil, shooter, trajectory, barrel length, and factory loads vs hand loads all play a part in determining the accuracy of a round.

We will do the same as we did with the recoil category, considering all things as equal as possible.

Since the 6.5 narrowly won the recoil section and the 260 Rem won the trajectory category, we can consider them canceled out.

Both rounds are very accurate at longer ranges, so this section is a tie.

Ballistic Coefficient

The ballistic coefficient (BC) represents how well a bullet resists air.

It’s a measure of bullet aerodynamics. High B.C. bullets are preferred because they will better resist the wind.

Calculating BC is rather complicated and irrelevant for this article; however, heavier, longer projectiles typically have a higher ballistic coefficient than lighter, shorter bullets.

If you’re like me, you would assume the bullets for each caliber have the same ballistic coefficient; however, that’s incorrect.

The 6.5 Creedmoor is better suited for shooting high BC match grade bullets because of its longer neck and shorter case length.

The 6.5 Creedmoor 140gr ELD Match grade bullets have a .646 BC, the 143gr ELD-X have a .625 BC, and the 147gr ELD Match bullet has a BC of .697 BC.

The 260 Remington doesn’t have as many options, which we will discuss later. The 130gr ELD Match bullet has a .506 ballistic coefficient.

The winner for this category is the 6.5 Creedmoor.

260 vs 6.5 Creedmoor: Stopping Power

Many argue stopping power is a relative term that doesn’t matter if you have a well-placed shot.

I agree it matters less for well-placed shots.

However, no matter how prepared we are as shooters, not every pull of the trigger is a well-placed shot.

That’s why stopping power still matters.

Stopping power can be measured in several ways, such as the size of the hole the bullet leaves and how deep it penetrates the target.

Sectional Density (SD) measures how well a bullet penetrates a target.

This is important when big game hunting because you need a bullet to punch through tough hide, bone, and sinew.

Sectional density is calculated by comparing the bullet weight and the bullet diameter.

The higher the number, the better it will penetrate the target.

Since both calibers shoot the same diameter bullet in varying weights, the sectional densities will be identical.

A 120gr .264″ diameter bullet has an SD of .246. The 140-grain .264″ diameter bullet has a sectional density of .287.

A 160gr .264″ diameter bullet has a sectional density of .328. A 156gr .264″ diameter bullet has an SD of .320.

However, other factors exist in terms of SD outside the shape of the bullet: velocity and bullet design.

Two bullets weighing the same but traveling at different velocities have differing stopping power or penetration amounts.

The higher velocity bullet will penetrate deeper.

The 260 Remington typically has a higher muzzle velocity of 2,941fps for a 120gr bullet and 2,793fps for a 140-grain bullet.

The 6.5 Creedmoor has a muzzle velocity of 2,892 feet per second for a 120-grain bullet and 2,678fps for a 140gr bullet.

Bullet design also plays a role. Non-expanding bullets penetrate deeper but won’t leave as large of a wound channel.

While expanding bullets cause a large wound channel but don’t penetrate as deep.

This section is a tie because the 260 Remington has a slightly higher muzzle velocity, and the 6.5 Creedmoor has more options for different bullet types.

Hunting

Both calibers offer many hunters an excellent option for whitetail deer hunting, mule deer, pronghorn, coyotes, and varmint hunting to 500 yards.

They can also take elk and bear out to 300 yards; however, I strongly recommend using a larger caliber for elk hunting and moose hunting.

These calibers don’t pack enough punch to harvest big game ethically at longer distances.

The .308 Winchester would be my hunting cartridge choice above the 260 Rem and the 6.5 Creedmoor when big game hunting.

With these rounds being so similar, neither has a distinct advantage in hunting, so this category is a tie.

.260 Remington vs 6.5 Creedmoor Home Defense

I don’t recommend using a rifle for home defense because they’re known for overpenetration.

Rifle rounds tend to go through multiple walls, which could unintentionally endanger your family and neighbors.

Instead of putting your family and friends at risk, I recommend using a 12-gauge or 20-gauge shotgun or a 45 ACP or 40 S&W.

Now, if it’s the apocalypse and you’ve got a zombie horde approaching, by all means, bust out the 6.5 Creedmoor or 260 Remington and protect your home.

However, for close-quarter combat, they’re not going to be my first choice despite both calibers being available in the AR-10 platform.

This section is a tie because the 6.5 Creedmoor and 260 Remington were designed for long-range shooting, not close quarters.

Ammo Cost & Availability

This is one area where the 6.5 Creedmoor begins to stand out.

Not so much in price because a cheap 6.5 Creedmoor round will cost anywhere from $1.75-$2.75 per round, depending on the brand and whether or not it’s FMJ or ELD ammunition.

Many brands manufacture 6.5 Creedmoor, such as Hornady, Sellier & Bellot, Winchester, Browning, and Aguila.

Since so many brands make ammo in this caliber, it’s relatively easy to find, considering the times.

The .260 Rem is different. Not as many companies manufacture ammo in this caliber, so it’s much more difficult to find.

However, once you find it, it’s similarly priced to 6.5 Creedmoor.

If you’re looking to save money, I suggest buying bulk 6.5 Creedmoor ammo because most companies offer steeper discounts when you buy in bulk.

The 6.5 Creedmoor wins because of the availability of the factory ammunition at a similar price.

Rifle Cost & Availability

The cost for rifles chambered in both calibers will be about the same.

For instance, a Savage Arms 110 Engage Hunter XP Rifle chambered in .260 Remington will cost about $540, and the same hunting rifles chambered in 6.5 Creedmoor will cost about $580.

However, most bolt-action rifles chambered in 260 Rem are out of stock. So though the prices are similar, very few guns are available compared to rifles chambered in 6.5 Creedmoor.

You can get around this by getting a custom gun made, but that comes at a custom price, which is always much higher than a factory rifle.

For example, a Tikka 260 Remington Ss starts at $1,150, which is on the cheap end, whereas a Ruger M77 Hawkeye starts at around $830.

The winner is the 6.5 Creedmoor because of the abundance of rifles available.

Reloading

Reloading is another way to save money on ammo. It also gives you more control over the final product than factory ammo.

You can control all the controllable variables and craft the perfect round for your rifle.

Most serious shooters love handloading because of the increased control of the entire process.

Both calibers are capable of being reloaded. There are plenty of information and supplies available to successfully handload either round.

This category is a draw.

260 Remington vs 6.5 Creedmoor Ballistics

If you’re a ballistics nut, then you’ll love this section. I will say there is very little difference in the ballistics of each caliber.

260 Remington Ballistics

As I mentioned earlier, the muzzle velocity of the .260 Remington varies from 2,941 fps with a 120-grain bullet to 2,793 with a 140-grain bullet.

As far as muzzle energy goes, the 260 Remington has 2,305 ft-lbs to 2,425 ft-lbs depending on the weight of the bullet.

As the distance from the muzzle increases, the difference in energy decreases. At 500 yards, a 120gr bullet has 975 ft-lbs of energy, and a 140gr bullet has 979 ft-lbs of energy.

6.5 Creedmoor Ballistics

Note: This information comes from the manufacturer and is for informational purposes only. The actual ballistics obtained with your firearm can vary considerably from the advertised ballistics. Also, ballistics can vary from lot to lot with the same brand and type load.

260 Remington Development

The 260 Remington was a wildcat cartridge until Remington standardized it in 1997, but they weren’t the first to try to standardize it.

A-Square LLC first submitted the proposal and drawings to SAAMI, but in the end, the cartridge was named after Remington.

It was created by necking down a .308 Winchester cartridge.

This round is most popular in the tactical and competitive shooter realms but is an effective hunting cartridge in a short-action rifle.

This round has been unsuccessful commercially in the US, but that’s not the case in Europe due to the popularity of 6.5mm bullets.

6.5 Creedmoor Development

Hornady debuted the 6.5 Creedmoor in 2007 as a “do anything” cartridge. Competition shooters were the first to jump on board and had immediate success using the caliber.

Big game hunters were more skeptical because the round lacks the weight often needed to bring down big game ethically. Though it has proved capable of bringing down some of the biggest game in the world, many hunters have other preferences.

The 6.5x55mm Swedish is the cartridge that Dennis DeMille based the 6.5 Creedmoor on.

Parting Shots

By now, you see that there is little difference between the 260 Remington vs 6.5 Creedmoor, yet the 6.5 Creedmoor is much more popular because of the greater availability of the rifles and ammo.

The .260 Remington won 1/10 categories. At the same time, the Creedmoor won 4/10 categories.

That means they tied in 5/10 sections due to their similarities.

The average shooter won’t notice the minute differences but should go with a 6.5 Creedmoor because of its availability.