There are endless fishing line choices out there but picking the right fishing lines for crappie fishing can and will make your fishing way more successful.

The best crappie lines include monofilament lines like Berkley Trilene XL or Stren Original, with a 4-6 pound test and in clear or low-visibility colors. Fluorocarbon lines like Seaguar InvizX or Berkley Vanish also work well, with a 4-6 pound test and in clear or green colors.

In this article, I will break down monofilament, braid, fluorocarbon, and copolymer lines and how each apply to crappie fishing to include their drawbacks. I will also provide some great recommendations to buy.

Crappie activity levels can vary due to water temperature, light, and food. They’re usually more active and hungry in the morning and late afternoon, but they’ll go deeper or hide in the shade as the day heats up. So, make sure you’re using the right fishing line for the conditions, like lighter line during low light and heavier line when the sun is high.

Can Crappie See Fishing Line?

Crappie can see fishing line, and some fishing lines are more visible than others. Generally, monofilament and fluorocarbon lines are less visible in the water, while braided lines are more visible due to their color and lack of stretch.

When it comes to color, clear and low-visibility green are good options for both monofilament and fluorocarbon lines. On the other hand, brightly colored braided lines, such as yellow and orange, can be easier for anglers to see and detect bites, but they may also spook crappie in clear water.

Crappie Fishing Lines: Big Picture Overview

When it comes to crappie fishing, there are different types of fishing line you can use. Let me break it down for you.

Monofilament line is a popular choice because it’s affordable and versatile. It has good strength and sensitivity, making it easy to feel those subtle bites. However, it does have some stretch, which can make hook sets a bit more difficult.

Fluorocarbon line is another option known for its low visibility and excellent sensitivity. It’s more expensive than monofilament, but its abrasion resistance and strength make it ideal for fishing around cover.

Braided line is incredibly strong and has zero stretch, which means you can set the hook with ease. It’s perfect for deepwater crappie fishing because you can feel every little movement. However, it’s visible to fish and can be more challenging to work with.

Copolymer line, which is a combination of monofilament and fluorocarbon. It has the best of both worlds, with good strength and sensitivity, low visibility, and a bit of stretch to help with hook sets.

In summary, monofilament is affordable and versatile, fluorocarbon is low visibility and abrasion-resistant, braided line is incredibly strong, and copolymer combines the best of both worlds. Each type of line has its strengths and weaknesses, so it’s up to you to decide which is best for your crappie fishing needs.

Monofilament Fishing Line

Monofilament line is a good choice for crappie fishing because it’s affordable and versatile, but it does have memory and a lot of stretch.

Monofilament fishing line is popular for crappie fishing because it’s affordable and versatile. The benefits of using monofilament line are that it has good strength and sensitivity, making it easy to feel those subtle bites. However, it does have some stretch, which can make hook sets a bit more difficult.

Generally, a 4-8 lb. test line is suitable for crappie fishing, but the pound test can vary depending on your fishing conditions. For color, clear or low-visibility green are good choices because they’re less visible to fish. As for brand/model, some popular options include Berkley Trilene XL, Stren Original, and Sufix Elite.

To buy Berkley Trilene XL from Amazon, click here to check out the product page and read customer reviews.

Pro Tips: Choose a line with a smaller diameter. This will make it easier to cast lighter baits and feel more bites. Another tip is to replace your line regularly, especially if you’re fishing in abrasive conditions or using heavier baits.

Fluorocarbon Fishing Line

Fluorocarbon line is a good choice for crappie fishing because it’s virtually invisible and has low stretch, but it can be more expensive and difficult to tie knots.

Fluorocarbon fishing line is another popular option for crappie fishing because it’s virtually invisible in the water and has low stretch, which makes it easier to feel bites and set the hook. One drawback of using fluorocarbon line is that it can be more expensive than other types of line, and it can be more difficult to tie knots because it’s stiffer than monofilament.

Generally, a 4-8 lb. test line is suitable for crappie fishing, but the pound test can vary depending on your fishing conditions. For color, clear or low-visibility green are good choices because they’re less visible to fish. As for brand/model, some popular options include Seaguar Red Label, Berkley Vanish, and P-Line Fluorocarbon.

To buy Seaguar Red Label from Amazon, click here to check out the product page and read customer reviews.

Pro tips: Choose a line with good knot strength. This will help prevent the line from breaking when you set the hook on a big crappie. Another tip is to use a lighter line when fishing in clear water, as the fish may be cautious and less likely to bite thicker diameter line.

Braid Fishing Line

Using braid fishing line for crappie fishing has some benefits, such as its strength, sensitivity, and small diameter, which allow for long casts and better hook sets.

However, braid line can also be visible in the water and may spook fish, and it has less stretch, making it easier for the fish to pull off the hook. When selecting braid line for crappie fishing, it’s important to choose a small diameter line with a pound test appropriate for the size of the fish and the fishing conditions.

Some popular braid lines for crappie fishing include PowerPro Super 8 Slick, Spiderwire Stealth, and Sufix 832, typically in a 4-8 pound test and a low-visibility color like green or gray.

Pro Tip: I recommend using a fluorocarbon leader when fishing with braid to increase the invisibility of your line to fish.

Copolymer Fishing Line

Copolymer fishing line for crappie fishing balances the benefits of monofilament and fluorocarbon lines, with good strength, low visibility, and sensitivity. It also has some drawbacks, such as higher cost and reduced casting distance compared to monofilament.

When selecting a copolymer line for crappie fishing, look for a brand that offers low memory and good knot strength, with a pound test appropriate for the size of the fish and the fishing conditions. Some popular copolymer lines for crappie fishing include P-Line Floroclear, Seaguar InvizX, and Yo-Zuri Hybrid, typically in a 4-8 pound test and clear or low-visibility color.

To buy Seaguar InvizX from Amazon, click here to check out the product page and read customer reviews.

Are Leaders Needed for Crappie?

Leaders are not always necessary for crappie fishing, but they can be useful in certain situations. A leader can be helpful in clear water or when the fish are particularly wary. A light fluorocarbon leader in the 2-4 lb test range can be effective in these conditions.

Some anglers prefer to use leaders made from monofilament or copolymer as well. The length of the leader can vary, but I recommend using a leader that is at least the same length as your rod.

Best Crappie Line for Night Fishing

When fishing for crappie at night, choose a line that is highly visible in low-light conditions. Fluorescent or hi-vis yellow monofilament lines in 4-6 pound test are great options. Berkley Trilene XL, Stren Original, and Sufix Siege are popular and effective brands for night fishing.

Best Ice Fishing Line for Crappie

When it comes to ice fishing for crappie, a good choice is a clear or low-visibility monofilament line with a pound test of 2-6. Some popular options include the Berkley Trilene Micro Ice line, Sufix Ice Magic line, and Stren FluoroCast line. It’s also important to use a light line to detect subtle bites, as crappie can be sensitive to heavier lines.

Line Strength & Diameter

Choosing the right line strength and diameter is crucial for crappie fishing success, as it affects the sensitivity of the line, how easily the fish can detect it, and the ability to feel bites and set the hook.

Thicker lines may be more visible to the fish but can handle heavier cover and larger fish, while thinner lines are less visible but may be more prone to breakage or snapping.

When selecting the line strength and diameter for crappie fishing, consider the fishing conditions and the size of the fish you target. 2-6 lb test line is recommended for crappie fishing, with a smaller diameter for increased sensitivity and less visibility.

To select the best fishing line for crappie, consider the time of day, water clarity, and depth of the fishing area. Monofilament, fluorocarbon, copolymer, and braid are all suitable options, each with their own strengths and weaknesses. Choosing the right pound test and diameter for your fishing needs is important.

For a complete breakdown of the best lines for walleye fishing, check out this guide. For a complete breakdown of the best lines for striped bass fishing, check out this guide. For a complete breakdown of the best lines for carp fishing, check out this breakdown. For a complete breakdown of the best lines for pike fishing, check out this guide. For a complete breakdown of the best lines for crankbaits, check out this guide. For a complete breakdown of the best lines for jigs, check out this guide.

So you are interested in getting into archery and more specifically crossbow archery but you aren’t sure where to start…we have all been there and are happy to put together this guide for getting in to this exciting and fun sport. As this guide is geared toward beginners, we will discuss everything from selecting the right crossbow for you all the way to how to shoot it and even how to sight in the scope. Please read on and enjoy!

Selecting the right crossbow

There are literally hundreds of crossbows out there to choose from, so how do you know which is the best one for you? When you are looking at a crossbow, it is important to first ask yourself what you intend to do with it. Are you looking for something purely for target shooting? Are you looking for something to hunt with? If so, what size animals will you be looking to take and at what realistic ranges? Many modern crossbows are capable of taking down a deer out to ranges in excess of 60 yards, but that is also going to require a lot of time and effort on your part to become proficient enough with your crossbow to make shots at that range. More realistic ranges are typically going to be 30 to 40 yards, so keep that in mind when looking at your hunting opportunities. So what are the biggest factors you should look for in a crossbow and how will they affect your shooting?

What is better, a recurve or compound crossbow?

A lot of people wonder about the difference between a recurve crossbow and a compound crossbow and what the advantage and/or disadvantage of each is. Both have a place in the target as well as the hunting world and both have a dedicated cadre of shooters. Here is a breakdown of the pros and cons of each type.

Recurve Crossbows

The recurve crossbow is the most purist of the crossbows and is the type of crossbow that has been around for hundreds of years. It is often selected by archers for its simplicity and reliability. The recurve crossbow essentially has a simple bow and string with no cables or pulleys to adjust or to worry about failing at a critical moment. The trade off for this simplicity is that a recurve crossbow is typically going to be quite a bit wider from axle to axle (ATA), which is the measurement across the widest part of the bow section. The recurve will typically also have a higher draw weight with less overall speed than its compound counterpart.

Compound Crossbows

Compound crossbows are the most popular crossbow type largely due to their lower draw weights with higher arrow speeds. The addition of the cables and pulleys means that a compound crossbow can enjoy a narrower ATA, which makes it more portable and easier to shoot from a confined area such a deer blind. Those cables and pulleys also translate to additional moving parts, and as such, additional potential points of failure. This isn’t to say that modern compound crossbows are overly prone to such failures, merely that the possibility exists, and likely won’t happen at the most opportune moment!

Speed

We are constantly asked about the speed of a crossbow and usually are asked, “What is the fastest crossbow?” There are some truly fast crossbows out there with speed capabilities well in excess of 400 fps. The most important question to ask yourself is why do you need that much speed? If you plan to go hunt a T-Rex in Jurassic Park, we might understand that, but for simple target shooting or for most deer hunting, nothing near that is necessary.

A fact not understood by a lot of shooters is that too much speed can actually be detrimental to your shooting. A fast arrow is great in terms of hitting harder and shooting flatter (a flatter shooting projectile means there is less drop of the projectile over distance so knowing the exact range is not as critical as with a slower projectile). The drawback is that as you increase speed, you decrease the crossbow’s tolerance for any little mistake. A fast arrow is going to react more to a less than perfect draw as well as being less forgiving for any imperfections in the arrow or vanes.

It is also important to know what weight arrows are recommended and what weight total projectile (arrows and points) were used to calculate the claimed speed of a crossbow. Often times, a heavier arrow will slow your speed, but will actually carry more force to the target, especially at longer ranges. Just remember, that you want an arrow that is fast enough to get the job done, but not so fast that the overkill makes your shots more difficult.

Safety

A beginner archer should really be concerned about the safety aspects of a crossbow as there are a lot of things to learn, so integrated safety devices will help keep you from injuring yourself or damaging your new crossbow. The most important safety features are discussed below.

Anti Dry Fire

A “dry fire” for a crossbow is when the crossbow is fired without an arrow in place. This is one of the single worst things you can do to a crossbow as it puts enormous stress of the limbs of the crossbow. The arrow provides resistance to the limbs when fired to allow them to release their energy in a controlled fashion, so firing without an arrow allows for a lot of energy to be released more rapidly than the limbs were designed for. Many modern crossbows feature a mechanism that will not allow the string to be released unless an arrow in place. This is called a “dry fire inhibitor”, or an “anti dry fire” device and is something you should definitely look for when selecting your crossbow.

Auto-Engaging Safety

Just about all crossbows on the market today will feature a mechanical safety that keeps the trigger from releasing the string when set. This functions much like the safety on a rifle and can be of many different designs. An auto-engaging safety is one that is automatically set during the action of drawing the bow string. This is a great feature for the beginner shooter as it is something you will not have to remember to set yourself and will keep the crossbow safe until you are ready to intentionally pull the trigger.

Forward Grip Design

The forward grip is the part of the crossbow located under the rail where your stabilizing hand is going to go. In a typical rifle design, this grip is simply a piece of wood or plastic where you can hold the rifle when shooting, without much concern for the safety of that hand as the bullet is contained inside the barrel. On a crossbow, while the arrow is contained somewhat within the rail, the bow string is not and slides rapidly down the rail when the crossbow is fired. If a finger or thumb from the forward shooting hand is up a bit too high and gets in the way of that string, at best the shot is going to be ruined, but most likely there is also going to be a significant injury to that hand.

To minimize this possibility, you should look for a crossbow that has a forward grip design with ‘wings’ that stick out to the side and run the length of the grip. These wings will help keep your fingers well below the string path and make for one less thing you need to focus on when learning to shoot.

Once your crossbow arrives

Typically, beginner crossbows will come as a combo, often with included arrows and other accessories. Keep in mind that just about every crossbow you order is going to require some level of assembly.

Assembly

Knowing that your crossbow is going to arrive in a big box, but is still going to need to be assembled is an important thing to understand. Don’t worry, assembly isn’t really a big deal at all. Typically, the bow section is going to come fully assembled, and in the case of a compound bow is going to be fully strung as well. The assembly will usually consist of mating the bow section to the barrel/stock assembly, mounting the scope and possibly adding a few accessories, such as a grip or quiver mount. The required tools are usually included and the instructions aren’t hard to follow.

Be sure when mounting your scope that you place it in the proper orientation. First look through it so you know the back and the front to ensure you don’t put it on backwards. Also, as you mount the scope, if it is an illuminated scope, there will be three round dials (one for the illumination settings) and/or round covers (two for the windage and elevation scope adjustments) at the midpoint of the scope. Simply place the middle cap in the up position and mount the scope. If the scope is not illuminated, there will only be two round caps for windage and elevation adjustments. One will be pointed straight up and the other straight to the right side of the crossbow. It is important to ensure your scope is mounted straight up and down and with the adjustments in the proper position or you will not be able to sight in your scope properly.

Arrow selection

If your crossbow didn’t come with arrows, you will need to select a good set of arrows to go with it. Most shooters use aluminum or carbon arrows but the carbon are the most popular. Be sure when selecting your arrows that you know what the recommended shaft length is for your crossbow as getting one that is too short can present a danger for shooting and might not weigh enough for your crossbow to shoot without the risk of dry fire.

Target selection

A crossbow is a much more powerful archery tool than a traditional vertical bow. The arrows are fired at much faster speeds and can often penetrate a standard archery target. Even with a good crossbow target, the arrows can often bury themselves so deeply that an arrow pulling tool might be required to remove them.

We have tested several different targets in our target selection guide to offer you some convenient recommendations: Best Crossbow Targets

Shooting your crossbow

So now you have everything assembled and the proper equipment ready to go so it is finally time to shoot your new crossbow. Before you shoot the crossbow, it is very important that you understand a few of the most important aspects of safely shooting.

For starters, never cock your crossbow until you are ready to shoot and most definitely never load it until it is time to fire. Keep in mind that once you are more experienced, this will not apply to hunting situations where you will want the crossbow cocked and loaded once you are safely situated in your hunting location. Be sure you never point your crossbow at something that you don’t intend to shoot and never EVER touch the trigger until you are lined up with your target and ready to fire. Lastly, always be completely sure of what you are shooting at and also know what is BEYOND your target. A crossbow arrow carries a lot of energy and can easily pass through an animal or you might miss the target…either way, be sure you know what is beyond your target and that conditions are safe to shoot.

How to aim

Just about all modern crossbows come with some sort of scope, or are set up with a rail to mount one. When you look through the scope you will either see a vertical line intersecting a horizontal line in the center of the scope. This is called the crosshairs. In the most simplistic version of shooting, you place the crosshairs where you intend the arrow to hit and squeeze the trigger. This will work assuming the scope is sighted in and the distance for the sighting in is the distance you are shooting (more on that below). There might also be a dot in the center of the scope which will be used in the same way.

Many scopes also have additional horizontal lines below the main crosshairs. These are used to shoot at targets further away, with each horizontal line creating a new crosshair where it intersects the vertical line. The lower the crosshair in the scope, the further away the target it is meant for. You will typically need to sight in the scope at say 30 yards, and then see how far away your specific crossbow/arrow/scope combination impacts at each crosshair to know the yardage it should be used for.

How to draw

Drawing a crossbow requires quite a bit more force than drawing a standard vertical bow. Most crossbows have draw weights in the range of 150 to 180 pounds with some having draw weights in excess of 200 pounds. It is critical that you draw the bow string in a uniform fashion every time such that your shots will be reproducible. The easiest way to accomplish this is through the use of a rope cocking aid. This is a device that is designed to hook to the bow string on either side of the rail and loops across the back of the crossbow.

First, place the crossbow pointed down at the ground and place your foot in the foot stirrup (the piece that sticks out from the end of the crossbow to place your foot in when pointed down). Hook the hooks on the rope cocker on each side of the rail and grab the handles on the end of each side of the rope cocker in the respective hand on that side. Then you simply pull straight up on the handles evenly with both hands until you feel the string engage in the firing mechanism. A swift solid pull straight up along the rail will make for the easiest cocking. Then ensure the safety is on and remove the rope cocker.

How to fire

Once the crossbow is cocked, you will need to place an arrow on the rail. You do so by grasping the arrow near the point (about four inches back from the tip) and slide it down into place on the rail and all the way back until it makes contact with the bow string. It is important when you do this to make sure the one of the vanes (usually the one that is the odd color relative to the other two vanes) is pointed straight down in the slot of the rail such that the arrow rests on the rail and not the vanes. It is also important to ensure that the groove in the nock of the arrow is horizontal such that the bow string seats into the groove (keep in mind that if your arrows that come with the crossbow have flat nocks, there will be no groove in the nock). It is very important that the arrow is loaded with the odd color vane straight down and that the arrow is fully seated back against the string. Once the arrow is in place, you simply aim at your target, click the safety to the “off” position and squeeze the trigger. There will usually be a bit of a slap sound from the string when you fire but very little recoil will be felt.

How to sight in

Once you are comfortable with how to look through your scope and understand how everything works you will want to sight in your crossbow. To do so, you will need to unscrew the caps on the top and right side of the scope. Removing these caps will expose the dials to allow you to adjust your scope to zero it in. You should first fire your crossbow into a target about 20 yards away to ensure your scope is close enough that you will be able to hit your target at 30 yards. If it is way off, simply use the dials to adjust where the aim point is. As you look at the dial on the right side, it will typically have a letter “L” and an arrow. That means if you click the dial in that direction, you will be moving your aim point to the left, and if you go the opposite direction of the arrow, you will be moving your aim point to the right. So if your arrow is several inches to the right of the bullseye, you will want to move the dial in the direction of the arrow to adjust your aim point to the left. The same method is applied with the top dial except it will usually have an “UP” and an arrow which means if you move the dial in the direction of the arrow, you will bring your aim point up and vice versa. Once you get familiar with how the dials move the aim point of the scope, you will be able to zero your scope in with ease.

Below are some of the most frequently asked questions we receive from new shooters:

Are there right and left handed crossbows? No. Crossbows do not eject any type of spent casing like a rifle does so you can shoot it either way. You might have to move mountings for a quiver if it attaches along the side of the crossbow, but other than that there is no right or left.

Can I change the string on my crossbow? Yes, but you will need to have the proper tools. It is easiest to accomplish changing a string with a bow press which essentially allows you to remove any tension from the limbs for easy changing of the string. Quite often this will require an archery pro shop, although we have used a portable bow press that worked quite well.

Here is a link to that review for more information: Night Hawk Bow Press

What is the absolute furthest I can hunt with my crossbow? Modern crossbows are capable of launching an arrow literally hundreds of yards, although without much accuracy. A very accomplished shooter might be able to hunt at ranges out to 80 yards, but that is a VERY accomplished shooter. Most beginner shooters should keep within 30 to 40 yards until they have enough range time to ensure accuracy at greater distances.

Are crossbows legal to hunt with everywhere? More and more states are adopting laws allowing the use of crossbows for hunting during archery season by all hunters, regardless of whether they have a disability. We would recommend you check with your local and state regulations to know the laws pertaining to crossbows in your area.

What’s the difference in a crossbow arrow and a crossbow bolt? You may see quite often the use of the terms crossbow “arrow” and “bolt” used interchangeably. This is actually incorrect. The true crossbow bolt which was used for so many hundreds of years is a front heavy projectile with no stabilizing fins or vanes. The modern projectiles used with crossbows that have vanes or fletching are crossbow arrows, just like a regular arrow only a bit shorter to fit the crossbow requirements.

What kind of hunting points should I use? You can use any type of broadhead that is legal in your area, but most crossbow shooters prefer mechanical broadheads over fixed broadheads. This is primarily due to the extreme speeds of crossbow arrows. Having the fixed broadhead can affect your accuracy while a mechanical broadhead will fly more like a field point.

Can I cock it by hand? The short answer is “yes” if you have the strength to pull it back. Cocking by hand is not recommended, however as the string may not seat perfectly leading to variability in shot placement. A rope cocking aid is always recommended as it makes it easier to cock by reducing the felt draw weight by around 50%, and it also allows you to ensure the string is centered for each shot.

SPRING MUSHROOMS

There are over 100 fairly common spring mushrooms in our area (NYC metro area) – that is, occurring between March 21 and June 21. Some of these occur in great numbers. Some are choice edibles. A few are poisonous. One is deadly. Most are just not edible or palatable 0r chewable. Learn them one at a time and you’ll see how quickly you can become familiar with much of our spring mushroom flora…………..

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CENTRAL PARK MUSHROOM HUNT – JUNE 14th

GILLED MUSHROOMS included AMANITA flavorubescens PLUTEUS cervinus, PSATHYRELLA candolleana, RUSSULA sp., SCHIZOPHYLLUM commune, STROPHARIA rugosoannulata, and a few still to be identified

NON-GILLED MUSHROOMS included: XYLARIA polymorpha, STEREUM ostrea, PHELLINUS robiniae, GANODERMA curtisii, USTULINA deusta, and others…….

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The mushrooms below are arranged in two large groups – ASCOMYCETES and BASIDIOMYCETES.

The ASCOMYCETES include the CUP FUNIG, the MORELS, the DEAD MAN’S FINGERS and BLACK KNOT OF CHERRY

The BASIDIOMYCETES include the POLYPORES, the GILLED MUSHROOMS, the BOLETES, the JELLY FUNGI, and the PUFFBALLS

Below the photographs of spring mushrooms, there is a TEST that you can take. See how well you do. (Answers will follow in a June posting).

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ASCOMYCETES

CUP FUNGUS – Sarcoscypha coccinea – not edible – on sticks on the ground near ponds or lakes

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MORELS – Morchella esculenta (americana) – Choice Edible – on the ground under old elms, apple trees, tulip poplar

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Immature DEAD MAN’S FINGERS – Xylaria polymorpha – not edible – at the base of hardwood trees, often apple or crabapple

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BLACK KNOT OF CHERRY – Apiosporina morbosa – not edible – parasitic, on cherry branches

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BASUDUINTCETES

POLYPORES

DRYAD’S SADDLE (PHEASANT BACK) – Polyporus squamosus – good edible when young – on wood

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CHICKEN MUSHROOM – Laetiporus sulphureus – CHOICE EDIBLE MUSHROOM – on wood of hardwood trees – fruiting from May through October

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GILLED MUSHROOMS

PLAYGROUND MUSHROOM – Agaricus bitorquis – choice edible – on the ground, often bare ground, grassy areas, wood chips, etc.

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OYSTER MUSHROOM – Pleurotus ostreatus – Choice edible – on wood

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DUNCE CAP – Conocybe lactea – not edible – common in grass in late May/early June

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LAWN MOWER’S MUSHROOM – Panaeolina foenisecii – not edible – common in grass in late May/early June

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Baby INKY CAPS – Coprinus macaques complex – Edible, good in soup, as duxelles, etc. – on wood, base of stumps, wood chips

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DEADLY GALERINA – Galerina (autumnalis) marginata – a very common Little Brown Mushroom – on decayed logs – DEADLY POISONOUS

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FAWN MUSHROOM – Pluteus cervinus complex – edible when young – on wood or buried wood

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WINE CAP – Stropharia rugosoannulata – Good edible when young – always in wood chips

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BOLETES

CRACKED CAP BOLETE – Xerocomellus chrysenteron – first bolete to appear (late May-early June) – edible – on the ground under oaks (mycorrhizal)

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JELLY FUNGI

WOOD-EAR – Auricularia auricula complex – edible, best in soup – one wood – common in late winter and spring

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WITCHES’ BUTTER – Tremella mesenteric complex – edible but not incredible – on wood

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SPRING MUSHROOMS 2017………………SPRING MUSHROOMS 2017…………………SPRING MUSHROOMS 2017

A MULTIPLE CHOICE TEST –

1, Name 3 gilled mushrooms that grow on wood: a) Agaricus bitorquis, b) Pleurotus ostreatus, c) Coprinus micaceus, d) Morchella esculenta, e) Flammulina velutipes, f) Ganoderma applanatum

2. Name 3 gilled mushrooms that grow on the ground: a) Agaricus bitorquis, b) Pleurotus ostreatus, c) Conocybe lactea, d) Panaeolina foenisecii, e) Pluteus cervinus, f) Stropharia rugoso-annulata

3. What color is the spore print of Pluteus cervinus: a) white, b) yellowish, c) pinkish brown or brownish pink, d) ochre brown, e) purple brown, f) black

4. Name one deadly Little Brown Mushroom: a) Agaricus bitorquis, b) Pleurotus ostreatus, c) Gallerina autumnalis (marginata) , d) Morchella esculenta, e) Pluteus cervinus, f) Flammulina velutipes

5. Name one spring lawn mushroom: a) Pluteus cervinus, b) Flammulina velutipes, c) Stropharia rugoso-annulata, d) Marasmius oreades, e) Morchella esculenta, f) Pleurotus ostreatus

6. Name one inky cap mushroom that is not safe to eat: a) Coprinus comatus, b) Coprinus micaceus, c) Coprinus atramentarius, d) Coprinus plicatilis, e) Coprinus disseminatus

7. What’s the name of the common cultivated mushrooms?: a) Agaricus campestris, b) Agaricus bitorquis, c) Agaricus bisporus, d) Agaricus arvensis, e) Agaricus placomyces

8. Name one spring species of Agaricus: a) Agaricus arvensis, b) Agaricus bitorquis, c) Agaricus crocodilians, d), Agaricus placomyces, e) Agaricus bernaradii

9. Where would I look to find Wine Cap mushrooms?: a) in lawns, b) on trees, c) in wood chip mulch, d) in manure, e) in deep conifer woods

10. Where would I look to find oyster mushrooms: a) in a lawn, b) in swampy ground, c) on trees and logs, d) in manure, e) on other mushrooms

11. Name one common spring polypore: a) Polyporus squamnosus, b) Grifola frondosa, c) Meripilus sumstinei

12. Where should I look to find morels? a) on elm trees, b) under elm trees, c) in manure piles, d) in swamps, e) only at Whole Foods

13. How can I tell a morel from a false morel?: a) only one is brown, b) only one comes up in the spring, c) only one has a hollow stem, d) only one smells like cherry vanilla, e) only one is an Ascomycete

14. Have you ever eaten wood-ear mushrooms? a) yes or b) no ????

15. What kind of mushroom is a Turkey-tail?: a) a jelly fungus, b) a gilled mushroom, c) a polypore, d) an Ascomycete, e) a puffball

16. What kind of mushroom is a Reishi mushroom?: a) a gilled mushroom, b) a polypore, c) a jelly fungus, d) an Ascomycete, e) a puffball

17. Where would I look to find Chaga?: a) on an elm, b) on an oak, c) on a birch, d) on a pine, e) on a tulip-poplar

18. What is a Caterpillar Fungus, and is it edible?: Cordyceps is the traditional genus for these mushrooms that parasitize overwintering caterpillars, and it is edible but primarily used as a medicine

19. Where would I look to find Black Knot fungus?: a) on an elm tree, b) on an oak tree, c) on a cherry tree, d) on a poplar tree, e) on a ginkgo tree

20. Are mushrooms edible raw, and if not, why not?: NO (if very few exceptions, mushrooms are highly indigestible raw)

21. Give one example of one ectomycorrhizal mushroom?: a) Coprinus commatus, b) Agaricus bitorquis, c) Pleurotus osteratus, d) Pluteus cervinus, e) Boletus chrysenteron

During my whole fly fishing career, one question I’ve answered the most is, “What are the best fly reels for the money?”

I know fly reels don’t just grow on trees, and you need to spend your hard-earned money to get them. And so you want to get the best value fly reel on the market.

Among all of the fly reels I have used and tested, Ross Reels Animas is the best fly reel for the money and definitely top of the list.

I will cover each of the best fly fishing fly reels for the money in detail. So the next time you need to buy a reel, you know where to look.

Disclosure: The Wading Kit is a reader-supported website and takes part in the Amazon Associates Program. We may earn a small commission if you shop through links on this page. At thewadingkit.com we test products and recommend them based on unbiased research. For info see disclosure here.

Best Fly Reels For The Money

In this article, you will find:

• Honest reviews for the ten best-rated fly reels
• A guide that will help you buy the best fly fishing fly reels for the money
• Tips for maintaining a reel
• Some frequently asked questions, and their answers
• A conclusion with a winner from the 10 reviewed best value fly fishing reels

So stay hooked!

10 Best Fly Reels For The Money in 2024 – Reviews

Here are the detailed reviews of the ten best value fly reels:

1. Ross Reels Animas – Best Fly Reel Ever Made

I once went on a fishing trip to the west with my friends, and there I was introduced to this revamped Ross Animas reel. I was pretty dumbfounded by how good this reel looks. The open design, lots of ports, and a silhouette of the Colorado mountains on the back look spectacular. Also, this new reel is significantly lighter than the former one.

As for the performance, I was equally impressed. The drag strength is good enough to do the job. The reel starts cranking without any resistance and rotates like butter. The drag knob is large enough to hold easily. Also, the clicking sound on both incoming and outgoing is solid.

Most people will tell you that the Ross Animas reel is a perfect reel out there with practically no flaws. But I found one after very close inspections. The size of the reel is written on the reel foot, making it invisible when the reel mounts on a rod. I’d rather have the marking elsewhere to make it more visible.

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Takeaway:

The Ross Animas is one of the best fly reels for the money out there. It looks good and performs even better. I doubt there could be a better reel in its class.

2. Sage Spectrum C Fly Reels – Best Quality Fly Reel

The minimal weight of this reel impressed me instantly when I took it out of the box. The ported spool and a sealed drag make this reel one of the best fly reels for the money. You may even call it the finest reel Sage has ever produced, with an affordable price tag.

Not only does it look sexy, but it is also a killer when it comes to performance. The drag is silky smooth and shows no initial inertia at all. The drag knob is straightforward to operate, unlike many other Sage reels where the knob was a bit sunken within the frame. Also, the handle of this reel is just the right size to grip.

The spool and the frame have no gaps between them so that you can reel it confidently without the fear of any lines sneaking into the void. I also like the narrow spool this reel offers because wider spools have the issue of lines not leveling correctly. But the large diameter and concave spool make up for the lack of capacity created by this thinness. You easily store an ample amount of backing in this reel.

The spool-releasing system, however, is a little too tight for me. Nothing major, but you need to exert a bit of force to separate them.

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Takeaway:

Spectrum by Sage may not be the cheapest reel you’d find, but it is easily one of the best quality fly reels under 200$. It is better to spend a few extra bucks to get the many handy features Spectrum offers.

3. Redington RISE Fly Fishing Reel – Best Lightweight

Redington has produced some of the best fly reels for the money, and it’s the same with Rise. This reel looks pretty and is great out in the water. The drag is powerful, and the ergonomics are top-notch.

The finishing is perfect all around, and I could find no blemishes or uneven surfaces. After making an excellent first impression, this reel accompanied me on a fishing trip. The drag was very smooth initially, but since it is not fully sealed, some silt and dirt got into it, making it a little bumpy. Not for seawater, I suppose.

Now, the handle was okay, but the drag knob felt a bit cheap, to be honest. Also, the lines holding capacity was a bit of a turnoff for me. It not only couldn’t hold full backing, but I also had to cut short the floating line to make it fit into the spool. So this reel is good enough for small lakes or ponds only.

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Takeaway:

The Redington Rise reel is a great solid start for someone just beginning their journey into fly fishing. It is also equally suitable for those experienced anglers who only want to relax by a pond.

4. Galvan Rush Light Reel – Next Best Thing

Galvan’s Torque has been my favorite for a long time. Recently, Galvan came up with a more valuable option and named it Rush. The Rush LT is now one of the best value fly reels in the market. It is reasonably lightweight, the drag is not disappointing, and the pricing is much more subtle.

There is a bit of startup inertia, but apart from that, the reel cranks smoothly. The sound of reeling the line in is good, but the outgoing drag click is not as crisp and clear as I’d like. Likewise, the drag knob is comfortable to hold and make adjustments, but the spool handle is not as long as other more ergonomic reels. These are just a couple of things Galvan could work on.

Now comes the durability. I dropped the reel on a cemented surface to test how well-made it was. To my surprise, there were no noticeable dents but the paint scratched from a few places. So that’s that!

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Takeaway:

If you cannot afford the best quality fly fishing reels, the Galvan Rush LT is the next best thing. With a considerable decrease in price, it offers many features of a best-rated fly reel.

5. Waterworks-Lamson Remix Fly Fishing Reel – Best Value Fly Reel

The Remix by Waterworks-Lamson is an excellent choice for someone looking for a beginner’s reel under $200. Its name represents a mix of machined drag and a die-cast spool. Also, it is one of the lightest reels on our list.

Waterworks cut down on a few high-end features to produce a more affordable reel. For example, it is not anodized. Instead, they’ve painted the die-cast spool to save on the cost. Also, the drag is towards the lower side of the scale and pretty sticky.

What’s good about it are the acoustics which are loud and clear in both directions. Plus, the retrieval rates are impressive, too, due to the large-sized arbor. The handle and knob are both okay, nothing too fancy.

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Takeaway:

The Remix has its limitations but is still a good value reel under $200.

6. Temple Fork Outfitters NXT Black Label Fly Fishing Reel – Beginners Friendly

Talking of affordable reels, here’s another. This reel is the cheapest in our list of best fly reels for the money. But by cheap, I only mean the price. Quality-wise this fly reel isn’t bad at all.

You don’t often see a machined aluminum frame in a price range this low. Furthermore, the disc drag system is smooth and pretty durable since it is stainless steel. I have seen many institutes using this reel and a TFO fly rod to teach fishing to amateurs.

But because this reel is painted rather than anodized, you might experience some scratches or the paint flaking off after a few uses.

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Takeaway:

If you are learning fly fishing or are just terrible at it, the TFO NXT Black Label might be the best fly reel for money if you are a beginner.

7. M MAXIMUMCATCH Maxcatch Sparta Fly Reel – The Smooooooothest of All!

Here is another good fly reel for the money. Maxcatch is a lesser-known brand that has dropped some of the best value fly reels over the last few years. I think they deserve some recognition for introducing very cost-effective yet best-quality fly reels to make fly fishing affordable for all kinds of folks.

Sparta is one of the smoothest reels I have ever got my hands on. I mean, I have experienced some high-end reels, but this one is hard to beat in terms of drag smoothness. The drag sound may not be the loudest, however. But I think I can learn to live with the mellow sound.

Now comes the appearance. This reel shows promise in terms of design. The color is beautiful and looks great on my fly rod. The weight may be a bit more if you compare it to better-rated reels of the same size. The sizing also felt a bit off because I ordered a 5/7 wt size, and it felt a bit heavier on my 6 wt fly rod. So you’ll need to be careful there.

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Takeaway:

Sparta is a great value reel under $100. If you can live without the perfect click and a bit of weight, you must try this one.

8. Waterworks-Lamson Litespeed F Series Fly Fishing Reel – A Piece of Luxury

You may call the new “F-series” by Lamson a hybrid between their Litespeed and Speedster series. The features resemble closely with the former, while the looks are similar to the latter. But whoever the parent line is, these new reels are as perfect as a fly reel can get.

The weight is incredibly light. It is considerably more delicate than the previous models from the Litespeed range. Also, the design is phenomenal. The very open design makes for quick drying of retrieval lines.

As for drag, it features Lamson’s signature conical system that is sealed and robust. However, the F-series takes it up a notch with its innovative spring assembly and a drag knob that stops with a pleasant click.

The color whiskey is my favorite to pair up with any wooden fly rods. The only thing I don’t highly appreciate about this new F-series is the high price. I know this range is supposed to be more high-end and a piece of luxury, but Lamson has produced numerous best fly reels for the money with very similar features, yet they cost at least $100 less.

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Takeaway:

If you can afford it, the Lamson Litespeed F series is a piece of luxury that is also unmatched in performance.

9. Bozeman FlyWorks The Patriot Fly Fishing Reel – Good For Salmon

Bozeman is a smaller brand trying to make its way into the bigger fishing gear market. I tried their Patriot fly reel when I looked for a machined body, sealed drag, and affordable reel to go with my new rod. And this reel checked all marks!

It is incredible how many high-end features this reel gives you while staying on budget. The machined aluminum body is smooth and sturdy looking, and I could find no defects in the framework or the paint job. Furthermore, the sealed drag is smooth and powerful enough for enormous tackle, say salmon and steelhead.

The drag knob is functional and has excellent form. I can easily find and use it while I’m busy fighting a running fish. The drag adjustment is pretty fine, and I could find my sweet spot for the torque setting after just a few tries.

The only way this reel might trouble you is the capacity to hold lines. I bought a 5/6 wt reel, and I don’t think I can overline it at all because it will cost me a bit of my backing. Little backing won’t do you any good when you catch a 7wt fish like salmon.

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Takeaway:

The Bozeman Patriots is a good value fly reel for anyone who doesn’t want to spend a lot of fortune. It has its limitations but is still a fair trade at its price.

10. Pflueger Medalist Fly Reel – For Vintage Vibes

Pfleuger has been around in the fly fishing market longer than I can remember. They have produced some classics in fly reels. The Medalist is the last one on our list of best fly reels for the money. It gives a vintage feeling with a more modern click-and-pawl drag system than the old brake shoe type we saw in prior versions.

This reel doesn’t look like it, but it weighs pretty little. The machined body is rough and tough, too, and the drag is smooth. The power on the drag system may not be a lot, but it is enough to catch small fish without a backlash. If you want a reel specific for higher weights, this is the wrong reel.

Now, the clicking sound is pretty loud, precisely as I like it, and the capacity to hold lines is excellent too. What’s not too good is the tiny drag knob that is not at all good for doing its job. The handle is also plastic and a little cheap-looking. I would have been okay with the plastic if this was a $50 fly reel sold at Walmart, but sadly it isn’t.

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Takeaway:

If you want a machined body and a retro look, the Patriot may be the best fly reel for the money. But if you need drag and are too bothered by the knob and handle, then not so much.

Buying Guide:

Testing different fly reels is my favorite job to do. I get to test so many products and tell you about my experience.

After testing the above ten best fly reels for the money, here is a list of the things you’ll need in your reel to make the most out of your money:

Durability

It is understandable; when looking for the most value for your money, you’ll need your fly reel to last you at least a few years. CNC machined aluminum body is good in this regard.

Performance

Smooth drag, adequate strength, and the ability to make fine adjustments on the drag are some of the factors that make a fly reel perform better than others.

Ergonomics

Last but not least, you need your fly reels to be ergonomic. The handle should be long enough to grasp, the drag knob sufficient to adjust, and the spools should separate and reseat easily.

Related Fly Fishing Guides:

• Best Fly Fishing Gloves
• Wading Jacket Reviews
• Best Fishing Waders
• Best Wading Boots For Fly Fishing

How To Care For Your Best Fly Reels For The Money?

Here are some tips for taking care of the best fly reels:

1. Practice good handling of your reel.
2. Rinse your reel with clean fresh water after use.
3. Deep clean it after every fishing trip, if possible.
4. Do not soak your reel for longer than 30 minutes.
5. Grease the inners once a year.
6. Loosen the drag knob to a minimum before storing.
7. Store your reel bone dry.

FAQs

Q. What are the top-quality fly reels for the money?

The best purchases I have made for fly reels are the Ross Animas, Galvan Rush Light, and the Sage Spectrum.

Q. Which are the top-rated fly reels for catching bigger fish?

The Bozeman Flyworks Patriot and Waterworks Lamson Litespeed F series are powerful enough to tackle bigger fish in the river.

Q. What is a sealed drag?

A drag that is covered to protect its components from the elements of nature (dirt, silt, sand, salt) is called a sealed drag. For that, we use saltwater fly reels.

Conclusion:

The best fly reels for the money can nail their job and also give the most benefits to make your purchase fruitful.

Among the ten fly reels I have reviewed, the Ross Animas wins for being the most impressive. Thoughtful design, smooth drag, easy handling, and minimal weight are only some of the great features it provides.

So the next time you buy a reel, make sure it deserves your money!

The Wading Kit is reader-supported. When you buy through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission, without any extra cost to you. Learn more.

Field judging black bears is notoriously difficult. They might just be one of the most difficult species to judge. Not only can it be hard to tell a big one from a little one, but sows and boars look very similar…and sows can get big!

If you’ve ever put yourself in a fast decision, quick draw scenario, then you know what it’s like to sit at a high stakes black bear gambling table. But, with a bit of pre-game day know-how and the help of a few tricks, those all too commonly experienced ground shrinkage issues should be no problem to steer clear of.

Field Judging Black Bears

1. Hunt an area that consistently produces big boars.
2. Learn how to know the difference between a sow and a boar.
3. Look for a stout neck and a wide head with “small” ears on the sides.
4. Look at the size of the body.
5. Watch how they move.
6. Compare them with the bait barrel.
7. Watch for rutting activity.

Hunt an area that consistently produces big boars.

Big bears are very particular about where they live. If you’re not hunting in those areas, you won’t kill a mature boar.

It is the giant super intellectual, predatory boars that keep every hunter daydreaming, and these old un-hunted crankers are our objective and goal. While these specific bears are choosy about a lot of things, much the same as any other big old age class animal, they are firstly very particular about where they live.

These giant boars will hold and defend prime areas.

If you are not in an area that has big bear, and focusses calculated strike effort specifically at them, you may as well have stayed home.

How to tell the difference between a sow and a boar.

The first thing when your field judging black bears is to determine whether it’s a sow or boar. At times this is exceedingly easy when it’s a mature boar, but it can sometimes be difficult to tell difference between a battle hardened old sow and a big boar. Age catches up to us all. Until boars start approaching adult weights at 7-9 years old, it can be very tough to tell them from sows.

When you hunt with an outfitter that targets large, age class boars, and discourages shooting sows will tip the odds in your favor. This management ideology just makes sense. After all, sows are crucial to population dynamics, they are the best big boar bait available.

If a bear has cubs with it, it’s a sow.

In every case where you see a larger sized bear with one or more quite notably smaller and obviously dependent bears, the larger bear is guaranteed to be a sow. However, many sows will have young of the year that they won’t bring with them into a bait site. They’ll stash their cubs in a tree before coming into the bait. Given any opportunity will kill cubs, a mature boar will kill and eat her cubs, so as to bring a sow into estrus cycle.

A dead ringer with sows is the visible presence of nipples.

On wet (nursing) sows with young, the cubs pull out hair around the nipples which can profile them, making them visible, even from broadside, and this can be especially evident on older, larger sows. A good outfitter will set up the bait to give you “angle views” that can really help in obtaining this visual.

Look at the head.

Female black bears have broad heads and narrow muzzles.

Females’ faces are slender and more pointed than males. The smaller the ears look and the farther apart they seem, the better the bear. If you can envision an imaginary upside down triangle on the bear’s head going down to its nose, and all sides are equal, then it’s a mature bear.

A mature boar’s head is quite wide, and will have a thicker, stouter neck.

Boars with some years under their belt will always appear to have smaller ears that are off more to the side of the head than up top. They can show a quite distinct center line crease that runs down their forehead from between their ears. This muscle structure can be quite predominate and noticeable on some big boars.

The smaller the ears look and the farther apart they seem, the better the bear.

If you can envision an imaginary upside down triangle on the bear’s head going down to its nose, and all sides are equal, then it’s a mature bear. A young bear’s head will look big and its ears will look huge and almost touch. Young bears also move at a quick pace and seem skittish and clumsy.

Body Size

Look at length of legs, chest size and how big the head is in comparison to the body.

If his head and ears look small in comparison to his body he’s a giant. If his legs look thick top to bottom, that’s a good sign. A boar’s leg will look as big below the knee as above the knee. A sow’s legs will have a V shape from top to bottom.

Mature boars will exhibit what appear to be blocky, low to the ground profiles.

Watch for bears that are exceptionally wide across the brisket with heavy, wide set front legs. Watch for what appears to be shorter more evenly tipped hair. Big boars do not normally look shaggy with longer ratty looking coats as do younger bear, though belly hair will hang low pronouncing the big belly look. Magnum old sows can exhibit these same profile traits though, so nothing is static. All of these confirmation dynamics are affected by genetics and range factors, and black bears are diverse creatures with individual traits, similar to people in that way.

There is nearly no mistaking a big boars, how they move and how they conduct themselves, especially when around other bears. Big is big. Nearly anyone can identify a true giant boar.

They will rule every roost they roll into. Other bears will openly display caution and fear when they make an appearance at the party. Yes they look just like that discovery channel monster on TV. Really big bears will have a crease down the center of their forehead, and often scars on their faces. A giant boar can also appear so big it looks like he’s dragging his belly when he moves.

If the neck looks almost as big in front of the shoulder as his body does behind the shoulder, he’s a shooter.

That said however, it’s an entirely different issue with a medium to large bear. Field judging black bears of this caliber becomes difficult. Even younger, smaller framed bear often look like they belong in this class without the strong utilization of visual sizing aids.

Big bears move like they are big.

Large bears also move slowly, swaying side to side with a big belly and an air of confidence about them.

They can display indecisiveness, but all animals including people take pause when thinking and processing info, however, they will not be the bear that gets jumpy at every sound out there. If a bear comes in and has all other bears clear and undivided attention, promoting rapid submission or displays of fear, it will be a boar.

The body language of a non-submissive large male in any specie is a rapid telltale of dominance, and such intolerant mannerism is as well the case with dominant big boars.

If you see ripped up ears and/or heavy facial fight scarring on a big bear, do not waste any more time looking, it is show time. If you see a larger profile bear moving and trailing a smaller bear into the bait site, take the time to be sure, but it is virtually guaranteed to be a boar following a hot sow in.

A great method for field judging black bears is to compare them to the bait barrel.

If a bear is as tall as a barrel standing on its end, shoot!

Bait barrels are a great tool to use in size determination. In addition, it really helps to cut logs at each bait site that are 5 feet in length. If a bear meets/exceeds the length of these on the ground, it will likely be a shooter.

To aide in sex identification, strategically placed tree mounted “candy” jars provide a standing, unobstructed belly view.

Hopefully this overview can help a bit with this notorious subject of field judging black bears.

Big black bears can be a challenge to successfully square off with, but so long as moves are calculated, one nearly cannot go wrong. The hope is for giant net book 21 inch boars to be the first bear to walk in on everyone out there, but until that happens, keep looking those bear over and have fun!

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Many of those who tucked into a large turkey on Thanksgiving will have fought over the tiny end part of the cooked bird. They may even have waged a religious war over its name.

In an article in June in The Arkansas Democrat Gazette, David Lipschitz recalled an old family meal. “I loved chicken skin, and remember well fighting with my sisters for the vestigial tail of the chicken or turkey, what we called the Parson’s Nose – pure fat.”

In an article last April in the British newspaper The Independent, food writer Clarissa Dickson Wright wrote: “When I was a child, chicken was what you had for best – for Sunday lunch. There was great excitement about having it and, if you were very lucky, you got the pope’s nose.”

In the same month, Bennett Kirkpatrick wrote in The News and Observer in Raleigh, N.C., of “a syringe for injecting the liquid into the ‘Pope’s nose’ of the turkey’s tail.”

The expressions are certainly not new. In Tales of Old Dartmoor, a memorable 1956 episode of the British radio program The Goon Show, hero Ned Seagoon shouted, “Men, load all guns with roast turkey, with the parson’s nose outwards.” To which the villain Moriarty replied, “Sapristi, you devil! With the parson’s nose outwards? If you hit him with those, he’ll go to the bottom.”

The derogatory expression “pope’s nose” appears to have been coined in Britain as a result of anti-Catholic feeling after the reign of James II (1685-88). It was well in place by 1796, when Grose’s Dictionary of the Vulgar Tongue defined it as “the rump of a turkey.” The expression “parson’s nose” appears to have arisen as a response, wry or otherwise, directed at the Protestant clergy. Other variations over the centuries have included bishop’s nose and recorder’s nose (after a form of British judge). It’s enough to put more than a few noses out of joint.

Elsewhere, sound-alike words continue to cause trouble. Consider NBC’s written transcript of a segment that Today co-host Katie Couric devoted on Tuesday to the death of actor Christopher Reeve.

The text includes excerpts from a 2002 television interview in which Reeve, recalling his movie role of Superman, told Couric that he supported the superhero’s devotion to “truth, justice and the American way.” However, “the American way is a little bit confusing right now. So is the word patriotism – confusing because patriotism should not be confused with, you know, the right to descent.”

Reeve was not, as you will have divined, referring to the right of Superman to touch down after flying across town faster than a speeding bullet. He meant dissent.

“In other words,” he continued, “it’s equally patriotic to challenge what our government is doing, what our politicians are doing.”

One thing that politicians are doing, along with the rest of us, is speaking of brainstorming sessions in which ideas are generated. Republican Senator Mitch McConnell told the U.S. Senate on Oct. 6 that he worked with other politicians “to brainstorm new ideas and improvements to our oversight of the intelligence community.”

(Yes, well, we already know about a few of the intelligence community’s oversights.)

In Britain, at least one political-correctness patrol has begun an assault on this sense of “brainstorm,” a sense that dates back at least to 1925 in North America. The magazine Private Eye reports that, in a training session at the British Broadcasting Corporation, a course director told a junior manager the word was no longer allowed in its colloquial sense, because “it is offensive to those suffering from epilepsy.” She was told instead to use “thoughtshower.” It would be fascinating to read a dictionary written by that director.

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Choosing the right air compressor hose for your compressed air system can be a difficult task. With so many options, and each offering their own benefits, DIYers often turn to advice to help them come to a decision.

This article will provide you with the pros and cons of PVC, rubber, polyurethane, and hybrid air hoses, along with their suited applications and other hose selection considerations to make your decision a lot easier!

Table of Contents

• PVC Air Hose
• Rubber Air Hose
• Polyurethane Air Hose
• Hybrid Air Hose
• Hose Selection Considerations
• Frequently Asked Questions

PVC Air Hose

PVC air hoses are probably the most affordable air compressor hose available on today’s market. PVC hoses consist of a PVC-compound inner tube and a polyester spiral outer, which allows them to hold their shape. Consequently, making it difficult and possibly impossible to lie them flat.

PVC air hoses are typically stiffer than rubber hoses, making them more difficult to coil and uncoil. They tend to kink which is not desirable, and they easily become inflexible in cold weather conditions.

PVC air hoses are often distributed for free with air compressors, but because of these points, they may be difficult to work with, which is why many DIYers will upgrade their air hose to one of the following materials.

Here’s an example of a PVC air hose readily available on Amazon!

PVC Air Hose Advantages

• Affordable

PVC Air Hose Disadvantages

• Stiff
• Struggle to retain flexibility in cold weather
• Tend to kink

Rubber Air Hose

Rubber air hoses are typically the most common and readily available air hoses on the market. They consist of synthetic rubber which is reinforced with either braided or spiraled yarn. These types of hoses are very durable, rarely leak, and if they do, it’s generally easy to fix.

Rubber hoses do not kink and coil so easily, which makes them very easy to work with, even when the ambient temperature is cold. Rubber hoses are typically more expensive than other types of air hoses and tend to collect a lot of direct when being dragged across the floor due to their tackiness.

Here’s an example of a rubber air hose readily available on Amazon!

Rubber Air Hose Advantages

• Do not kink or coil easily
• Durable
• Rarely leak

Rubber Air Hose Disadvantages

• Heavy
• More expensive than other types of hose
• Tacky materials – therefore, collect dirt

Polyurethane Air Hose

Polyurethane air hoses are often confused with PVC air hoses due to their similar appearance. The key difference between the two is that Polyurethane performs far better than PVC.

Polyurethane air hoses are lighter and more flexible than PVC, and they have a very smooth outer layer that allows them to glide across surfaces with ease. Polyurethane hoses are not as flexible as rubber hoses, which makes them susceptible to kinking. Along with this, they also have a relatively high cost among air compressor hoses.

Their qualities make them an ideal choice for working with pneumatic framing or roofing nailers, to allow both freedom of movement and weight distribution.

Here’s an example of a polyurethane air hose readily available on Amazon!

Polyurethane Air Hose Advantages

• Flexible
• Lightweight
• Smooth outer layer – ease of transportation across surfaces

Polyurethane Air Hose Disadvantages

• Not as durable as rubber
• High cost
• Likely to kink

Hybrid Air Hose

Hybrid hoses are a combination of rubber, polyurethane, and PVC. This powerful blend gives them qualities that are similar to rubber but at a lighter weight, essentially making hybrid hoses a lot easier to work with.

Hybrid hoses are very durable, lightweight, and flexible, making them perfect for all types of tasks, from being used with ladders to being used in your garage. Though hybrid hoses aren’t as tacky as rubber, and so, they don’t collect as much dirt, they are more likely to kink after extended periods of use.

Here’s an example of a hybrid air hose readily available on Amazon!

Hybrid Air Hose Advantages

• Flexible
• Lightweight
• Not tacky
• Perfect for all types of tasks

Hybrid Air Hose Disadvantages

• Likely to kink after extended periods of usage

Hose Selection Considerations

Now you have an idea of the different materials available for air hoses, I want to switch attention to the other considerations you must factor in when selecting the right air hose for you. These include:

• Coiling Capabilities
• Connections
• Hose Dimensions
• Kink Resistance
• Pressure Rating
• Temperature Compatibility

Coiling Capabilities

Air compressor hoses either coil in a standard or recoil method. Standard hoses lie flat with no coils or bends, which makes them easy to unroll and stretch flat for maximum length or for storage.

Recoil hoses are ideal for working around a garage or workshop as they have small twists in their hoses, which cause them to recoil backward when the user lets go. Standard hoses can cause tripping hazards but are the ideal choice when operating a nailer because they have a longer maximum length.

Connections

Air compressor hoses typically have threaded ends to allow users to attach quick-release connectors to them, allowing you to switch between different power tools with ease.

You must take consideration into the right-sized quick-release connector for your tools. They are generally available in 1/8″ 1/4″ and 1/2″ sizes and as aluminum or brass. Brass connectors offer better resistance to corrosion and generally are known for more air-tight connections.

Hose Dimensions

First of all, the diameter of the hoses is important to decide how much air the hose is capable of delivering. Hoses range from around 1/4″ to 1/2″ and the right one will typically depend on the size of the air compressor. The most common size air hose is a 3/8″ hose.

Air compressors with high CFM outputs (cubic feet per minute) should use a larger diameter hose while air compressors with low CFM outputs should use a smaller diameter hose. For more information on CFM, visit our guide here!

The hose length is also important in determining which applications the hose can be used for, and how much pressure it will be capable of handling. Most air hoses range from around 5 feet to 60 feet.

If you require a hose for framing, roofing, painting, or other projects that require you to be a distance from your air compressor, then you will need a lengthier air hose. But, you must be aware that the longer the hose, the greater the pressure drop.

Shorter hoses are better suited to applications like filling truck tires or any other applications that demand higher pressures with sustained use.

Kink Resistance

Air compressor hoses, just like garden hoses, are liable to twisting and kinking when pulled or uncoiled. This can cause a delay in the airflow going through the hose, and may even lead to a burst at the kink if not dealt with.

Rubber hoses resist kinking better than any other type of hose. PVC has the worst of the hoses presented in this article, while hybrid and polyurethane offer good resistance to kinking.

Pressure Rating

Each and every air compressor hose will have a maximum pressure rating, indicating the amount of pressure, PSI (pounds per square inch), the air hose can withstand before breaking.

Typically, manufacturers will recommend an operating pressure for the hose as well as the burst pressure which is the maximum pressure the hose can withstand before bursting. Keep in mind, hoses with higher pressure ratings can handle tougher jobs like inflating truck tires.

Temperature Compatibility

An air compressor’s ability to resist changes in its flexibility typically depends on the different temperatures it’s exposed to. PVC struggle in colder temperatures and become less flexible, making them harder to work with.

In contrast, rubber hoses maintain their flexibility in temperatures that reach well below freezing. Polyurethane and hybrid hoses also are able to retain their flexibility in colder temperatures.

Frequently Asked Questions

If you’re wondering how to plumb an air compressor setup, visit our guide!

If you have any questions about PVC, rubber, polyurethane, or hybrid hoses, please leave a comment below, with a photo if applicable, so that someone can help you!

Bob Humphrey

Varying your calling through the season could earn you a successful date with a big gobbler this spring.

Turkey behavior, including how they call and how they respond to calls has a certain chronology to it. While there are no hard and fast rules when it comes to turkeys, there are some generalities that seem to hold true more often than not.

How to Call to Early-Season Turkeys

The earliest hunting seasons begin sometime between when winter flocks break-up and toms start gathering their harems. It’s a confusing time for turkeys and turkey hunters, but one thing that usually holds true is the birds are very vocal; and you should be too. One good tactic, which may come in handy later as well, is to aggravate the boss hen. If you get her mouthing off, it will fire up all the males within hearing, especially those naive two-year-olds that can be downright suicidal. Match her note for note, especially if you notice her call getting louder and more aggressive. And enjoy this while it lasts because once the toms have a hen or two in their hand, they’ll quickly lose interest in the other birds in the bush. Fighting purrs work well at this, too, as there’s still a lot of jousting for dominance.

How to Call to Mid-Season Turkeys

Unless they travel, most folks don’t get to enjoy the very early season because most turkey hunting seasons begin after most of the hens have bred. By then, toms have become accustomed to hens coming to them rather than the other way around. Dominant birds at least have what they want and can be tougher to call. Still, some subtler calling will sometimes work, especially on subordinate or satellite toms.

But again, be subtle. Those sub-dominant toms are interested in hens but also wary of getting their butts kicked by a more dominant bird. Another generality that will get stronger as the season progresses is that your calling may be more effective later in the morning and later in the day. Early morning is a hustle and bustle of harems, but as the hens gradually peel off to breed, lonely longbeards become more vulnerable. Birds venture farther from the roost and so should you. Troll along, calling loudly every so often until you get a response. Then park your carcass and tone down your calling, leaving longer periods between calling bouts to build the suspense.

How to Call to Late-Season Turkeys

As hunting and breeding seasons wind down hunters have to literally step up their game. You may have to walk for miles trying to locate a late season gobbler. Once you do, it’s time to go “old school” with your calling. The old adage that says, “yelp three times on a box call, then wait an hour,” is not too far off, though I prefer a slate, and can only wait about 20-30 minutes before calling or moving again. Some old males have all but lost interest in hens and about the only way to trick them is to lie in ambush around feeding areas or trying a little guy talk in the form of deep, raspy gobbler yelps.

Any Time

Regardless of what stage of the season you’re in, it’s still crucial to “taking a turkey’s temperature before serenading your quarry.” Give a few calls and see how a gobbler reacts. If he booms back and cuts you off you can really pour it on; be aggressive. If he responds but seems tentative, play it cool and aloof. And if he packs up and moves away you should do so as well. go find another turkey to hunt and leave the uncooperative one for a later hour or another day. Always remember, be patient when hunting turkeys.

There is beauty in simplicity and the traditional soft-hackle wet fly is quite simply, beautiful. In its bareness, in the liveliness of its soft hackle fibers it suggests all that seems necessary to tempt fish. Because of its simplicity it’s also one of the easiest flies to tie—and often one of the deadliest.

Also called a Hackle Fly, North Country Fly, Stewart Spider, or Yorkshire Spider, these flies were first mentioned in Dame Juliana Berners’ 1496 Treatise of Fishing with an Angle. Likely their history extends even farther back than that. But it wasn’t until Sylvester Nemes’ 1975 The Soft-Hackled Fly that they began to receive the attention they deserve in the United States, and became known in general as “soft-hackle” flies. (Incidentally, The Soft Hackled Fly was updated in 2006 as The Soft-Hackled Fly and Tiny Soft Hackles; I highly recommend both the original book and the update for their history, fly patterns, and ideas.)

The most basic version of the soft-hackle fly consists of a hook shank wrapped with thread, floss, or peacock herl and a hackle (partridge, grouse, hen or some other soft-hackled bird) wound around the forward part of the shank. Here the hackle suggests the legs or emergent wings of various insects such as caddis or mayflies. Slightly more elaborate versions include a small thorax of dubbed fur just behind the hackle. Others —often more specifically imitative of a mayfly nymph—will sport a tail and perhaps a body of dubbed fur, in which case the fly is often referred to as a soft-hackle nymph or “flymph,” a type popularized by Leisenring and Hidy. However you tie it, the soft hackle wet fly deserves an honored place in your fly box.

I first began tying these flies as a teenager in the 1950s after reading an article by Ray Bergman in Outdoor Life magazine titled Basic Wet Flies for Trout Fishing. They weren’t called “soft-hackle wet flies” back then, just “hackle flies.” Among my favorites were the Gray Hackle and Peacock and the Orange Fish Hawk, both tied with soft grizzly hen hackle on a #12 or #14 hook. Both were well-suited to the small skills of a beginning tyer and fly fisherman. Another favorite—one not found in Bergman—was one I called a Gray Pigeon (or sometimes a Flipper Fly). This pattern was hackled with a soft iridescent gray-blue feather taken from the neck area of a common pigeon with a body of soft gray fur clipped from the stomach of my old cat Flipper (who also supplied me with the pigeon).

I caught a lot of trout on these patterns but somewhere along the way, as my fly-tying skills became more developed and my flyfishing more sophisticated, I became interested in flies that more exactly imitated the insects in the streams I fished, flies that demanded more skill in both tying and fishing. I began to fill my fly boxes with more complicated patterns, relegating simpler flies to boxes that I rarely looked into. Eventually they became forgotten flies, rusting away and eaten by moths

Then in the mid-70s my interests began to shift back to simpler, more impressionistic patterns; flies that suggested insects or baitfish in general, flies tied with soft fibers that would move in the current like a living insect or baitfish. It was at this time that I tied the first Sparrow and other flies utilizing the soft aftershaft feathers found on a pheasant; also the Soft Hackle Streamer which (when you look at it closely) is simply a traditional soft hackle wet fly tied with a much longer marabou hackle thus allowing it to suggest a baitfish. About this time that I became friends with Sylvester Nemes, whose book rekindled my interest in the traditional soft-hackle wet fly. Since then I always carry a selection of traditional (and some not-so-traditional) soft-hackle wet flies with me wherever I fish.

Following the tying instructions given below I’ve listed some of my favorite soft-hackle patterns. While most of them are tied with partridge feathers, you can tie a whole range of soft-hackle wet flies using grouse, pheasant, woodcock, snipe, starling, grackle, sparrow, common hen in various colors, and, yes, even pigeon. For exceptionally soft-hackled flies, especially in the smaller sizes (#16-20), you might also want to tie some using the aftershaft feathers attached to the main body feathers of most of these birds; these mostly dun-colored feathers are the softest of the soft hackles and should not be overlooked by the tyer. They are very effective, especially in slower-moving or still water, where they are most productive. The ultra-soft and heavily-barbuled feathers found around the anus of most roosters and hens are also quite useful, especially grizzly; I refer to this feather often as a CPF (chicken-poop) feather throughout my web site.

Hook Selection

The soft-hackle wet fly is usually tied on wet fly hooks (any shape, model, and size you like) because it is usually most effective fished just under the surface. You may, however, tie it on lighter-wire dry-fly hooks to fish it in the surface film, perhaps as a drowned nymph that didn’t quite make it. A general rule for determining which hook to use is this: If you want the fly to imitate a caddis, tie it on a regular or short-shank hook without a tail; if you want it to imitate a mayfly, tie it on a regular or long-shank hook and add a tail.

While it’s most often used for trout, soft-hackle wet fly is also a fine steelhead and salmon fly, especially in heavily-fished waters or when the water is low. For a deeper, faster-sinking fly, use a 2x heavy wire hook or weight the fly with a copper wire or lead-wrapped body. Some anglers even tie it with a bead-head. Its effectiveness is not limited to fresh water either — it’s a productive bonefish fly, especially in smaller sizes (#8-#10).

Fishing the Soft-Hackle Wet Fly

Probably the most common way to fish a soft-hackle wet fly is to cast it across and slightly downstream, letting it sink and then swing in the current, rising with the tightening line much as a natural rises to the surface before hatching. It’s on this rise that fish usually strike. Another productive method is to cast the fly upstream on a short cast and then let it dead-drift back to you just under the surface (or, if tied on a light-wire hook, in the surface film). On lakes and ponds a soft hackle fly cast in front of a cruising trout and then twitched slightly can be absolutely deadly. Many soft-hackle fly anglers, especially in Europe, favor fishing two or three of these flies (of different colors and sizes) at a time.

And now it’s time to tie.

Tying the The Partridge & Olive

Hook:

Daiichi 1150, 1550, Mustad 8100BR, Tiemco 3769, or any hook that you prefer, sizes 10-18

Thread:

6/0 Olive or size A flat nylon

Body:

Olive thread or size A flat nylon

Ribbing:

Gold wire, optional

Thorax:

Hare’s Ear or gray squirrel blend

Hackle:

Hungarian Partridge

Head:

Hare’s Ear or gray squirrel blend

Soft Hackle Wets

Here are some of my favorite soft-hackle wet flies that you might want to tie up and try next time you’re on the stream. All are tied in the manner described above.

The Partridge & Chartreuse

Hook:

Daiichi 1150, 1550, Mustad 8100BR, Tiemco 3769, or any hook that you prefer, #12-16

Thread:

6/0 fluorescent chartreuse or size A flat nylon

Body:

Fluorescent chartreuse thread or floss or size A flat nylon

Ribbing:

Gold wire, optional

Thorax:

Hare’s Ear or gray squirrel blend

Hackle:

Hungarian Partridge

Head:

Fluorescent chartreuse thread or dubbed hare’s ear or gray squirrel

The Partridge & Orange

Hook:

Daiichi 1150, 1550, Mustad 8100BR, Tiemco 3769, or any hook that you prefer, #12-16

Thread:

6/0 orange or size A flat nylon

Body:

Orange thread or floss or size A flat nylon

Ribbing:

Gold wire, optional

Thorax:

Hare’s Ear or gray squirrel blend

Hackle:

Hungarian Partridge

Head:

Orange thread or dubbed hare’s ear or gray squirrel

The Partridge & Yellow

Hook:

Daiichi 1150, 1550, Mustad 8100BR, Tiemco 3769, or any hook that you prefer, #12-16

Thread:

6/0 yellow or size A flat nylon

Body:

Yellow thread or floss or size A flat nylon

Ribbing:

Gold wire, optional

Thorax:

Hare’s Ear or gray squirrel blend

Hackle:

Hungarian Partridge

Head:

Yellow thread or dubbed hare’s ear or gray squirrel

The Pheasant & Black

Hook:

Daiichi 1150, 1550, Mustad 8100BR, Tiemco 3769, or any hook that you prefer, #14, #16

Thread:

6/0, black

Body:

Black thread

Ribbing:

Gold wire, optional

Thorax:

Black fur dubbing

Hackle:

Iridescent black ringneck pheasant feather taken from head or lower neck of pheasant

Head:

Black fur dubbing or thread

Brown Hackle, Peacock

Hook:

Daiichi 1150, 1550, Mustad 8100BR, Tiemco 3769, or any hook that you prefer, #14, #16

Thread:

6/0, black

Tag:

Gold wire, optional

Body:

Peacock herl

Ribbing:

Gold wire, optional

Thorax:

None

Hackle:

Brown mottled hen or grouse

Head:

Black

Aftershaft Soft Hackle Wet Fly

Hook:

Daiichi 1140, 1150, 1550,1640 Tiemco 2487, or any hook that you prefer, #14-20

Thread:

6/0, olive, orange, yellow, black, rust

Tag:

Gold wire, optional

Body:

Olive, orange, yellow, black, or rust thread

Ribbing:

Gold wire, optional

Thorax:

None

Hackle:

Aftershaft feather from partridge, pheasant (hen or cock), grouse

Head:

Olive, orange, yellow, black, or rust thread

Soft Hackle Nymphs

These flies differ from the above soft-hackle wet flies in that they’re most often tied on a 1xl or 2xl hook, with a tail and with a body and thorax of fur, to imitate an emerging mayfly nymph. To imitate a caddis, simply tie the same fly on a regular or a shorter-shanked hook and omit the tail. These patterns may be varied, of course, to match more closely the sizes and colors of insects found on your local waters.

Partridge & Hare’s Ear

Hook:

Daiichi 1710, 1280, 1640, Mustad 9671, TMC 3769, 5262 or any hook that you prefer, #14, #16

Thread:

6/0 olive

Body:

Olive thread

Ribbing:

Gold wire, optional

Thorax:

Hare’s Ear or gray squirrel blend

Hackle:

Hungarian Partridge

Head:

Olive thread or dubbed hare’s ear or gray squirrel

Partridge & Muskrat

Hook:

Daiichi 1710, 1280, 1640, Mustad 9671, TMC 3769, 5262 or any hook that you prefer, #12-16

Thread:

6/0 gray

Tail:

Partridge

Body:

Blue-dun gray muskrat body fur

Ribbing:

Gold wire, optional

Thorax:

Blue-dun gray muskrat body fur

Hackle:

Hungarian Partridge

Head:

Gray thread or blue-dun gray muskrat body fur

Partridge & Red Squirrel (Hendrickson Nymph)

Hook:

Daiichi 1710, 1280, 1640, Mustad 9671, TMC 3769, 5262 or any hook that you prefer, #12-16

Thread:

6/0 rust or brown

Tail:

Pheasant tail fibers or wood duck

Body:

Red squirrel fur (from the back of the squirrel, to include predominantly rust-red hairs)

Ribbing:

Gold wire, optional

Thorax:

Red squirrel fur

Hackle:

Hungarian Partridge

Head:

Rust or brown thread or dubbed red squirrel fur

Soft Hackle March Brown Nymph

Hook:

Daiichi 1710, 1280, 1640, Mustad 9671, TMC 3769, 5262 or any hook that you prefer, #12, 14

Thread:

6/0 rust or brown

Tail:

Pheasant tail fibers

Body:

Red squirrel fur mixed with amber fur dubbing

Ribbing:

Gold wire, optional

Thorax:

Red squirrel fur mixed with amber fur dubbing

Hackle:

Hungarian Partridge

Head:

Rust or brown thread or red squirrel fur mixed with amber fur dubbing

Soft Hackle Pheasant Tail Nymph

Hook:

Daiichi 1710, 1280, 1640, Mustad 9671, TMC 3769, 5262 or any hook that you prefer, #14, #16

Thread:

6/0 rust or brown

Tail:

Pheasant tail fibers (three or four)

Body:

Pheasant tail fibers wound over hook shank

Ribbing:

Gold wire, optional

Thorax:

Hare’s Ear or gray squirrel blend

Hackle:

Hungarian Partridge

Head:

Rust or brown thread or dubbed hare’s ear or gray squirrel