When we think of ivory, we think of an elephant’s tusks, or the teeth of a walrus, a whale or a hippo. But few people realize elk in North America are actually carrying around a remnant from their prehistoric ancestors, which you can find in their teeth. However, these “ivories” can be easy to miss if you don’t know where to look. Today, we’ll discuss what exactly they are, and why they’re worthwhile to hold onto.

Hundreds of thousands of years ago, the ancestors of what we now call elk are believed to have had full-fledged tusks, similar to the Asian Muntjac deer, which still has upper canine tusks. Although it’s likely the ancestors of elk used their tusks to fight in the same way Muntjac deer do today, evolution produced the antlers we admire today, making the tusks virtually useless. Even though they’ve completely disappeared, there is still a pair of ivories hidden in the upper jaw.

Depending on where you are, you may hear people refer to them as “eye teeth,” “whistlers,” or “buglers,” but each is referring to the same thing. And, just like any other tooth, they’ll slowly wear down and stain over time as the elk continues to age.

How much are elk ivories worth?

This question has been asked for thousands of years, as Native Americans once used elk ivories as a form of currency. Today, they still carry a certain value, particularly among jewelers and craft enthusiasts, but it’s difficult to put a dollar amount on them. Considering a pair of elk ivory earrings could go for $30-$40 on eBay right now, it’s safe to say they aren’t a commodity. However, even as common as elk are in North America, few people even know these ivories exist, so there is still a rarity element that creates a certain level of demand.

Some states regulate which parts of an animal you can and can’t sell, though, so make sure to check your local game regulations before you start wheeling and dealing. Considering the lack of monetary value, many hunters try to turn the ivories from a harvested elk into a memento by which they can remember their hunt.

How to remove elk ivories

Here is the tricky part. Many hunters down their elk in extremely remote areas of the North American wilderness. After all, the best elk hunting is often in the hardest-to-reach spots. Your first and only thought may be packing your animal out, which does unfortunately make it easy to forget about those two special, hidden teeth. And, most hunters will tell you that getting them out certainly isn’t easy, as it will take a lot of labor and patience with a knife to dig them out. You have to be careful not to damage them, too, meaning you should avoid using a pair of pliers to pull them.

Hushin, one of the more popular hunting YouTube channels, demonstrated a fairly easy and efficient way to extract them in the video above. You’ll see Eric Chesser uses a block and a hammer to get the job done despite the head being fairly dried out, which should have made it even more difficult.

Eric says an old hunter taught him the trick. It seems like there is almost always a better way to do things found by an old timer, isn’t there? He simply uses a hammer and block of wood to quickly pop the ivories out of the jaw. We’d recommend using this technique if you have a block and hammer handy. It might be a good idea to throw these items in the back of your truck before your first elk hunt of the year.

Why you should keep your elk ivories

Even if it appears that elk ivories don’t have a lot of monetary value right now, that doesn’t mean it will always be true. If you’re the kind of lucky hunter who gets to bag an elk every year, put those elk teeth away and save them for a rainy day. Who knows what they’ll be worth in the future?

If you’re good with crafts, this is a good chance to make a gift for someone special that comes from the heart. Maybe your significant other “tolerates” your hunting obsession. A handmade elk ivory pendant or piece of jewelry would be a good way to say thank you.

You could also use them to form lasting memories. Did your child just shoot his or her first elk? Make them a pendant to wear around their neck. You could even make matching ones, one for you and one for them. They’re sure to hold a lot of sentimental value as your child grows older.

But perhaps the best reason to hang onto elk ivory is to simply utilize as much of the animal as you can. As hunters, we owe it to the animal to let very little go to waste. Even if you can’t see a use for the ivory right now, hang onto them. You just may find the perfect use in the future.

For more outdoor content from Travis Smola, be sure to follow him on Twitter and check out his Geocaching and Outdoors with Travis YouTube channels.

READ MORE: EVERYTHING THERE IS TO FIGURE OUT ABOUT COLORADO ELK HUNTING

Modern-day hunters, tactical shooters, and competition shooters rely so much on their scopes and other gun accessories to enhance their shooting accuracy. However, to improve your overall shooting accuracy, you have to practice as much as you can with your scope and rifle.

Aside from that, you also need to control the amount of recoil released by your firearm. Although you do not need to directly use your strength to manage the recoil impact, you would need a top-class mounting system.

Without a durable and reliable mounting system, your scope will not be of use to you because it is not possible to hold your scope on top of your rifle with your hands while trying to shoot at a target. Having said that, the only solution to managing the recoil effectively and ensuring that it does not affect your scope and rifle relationship is to use a tough scope ring.

There are so many scope rings out there that you can use to mount your scope to your rifle platform. In this article, we have compiled a list of the best scope rings for heavy recoil rifles. Carefully follow the reviews below to find out the best mount for your particular rifle caliber. Sit tight as we proceed…

What Exactly Are Scope Rings?

We need to understand what riflescope rings are before we proceed to some of the best rings available. If you’re a beginner, knowing what this gun’s accessory is and how it should be used can help you be a better shooter.

If you already know what a scope ring does, you can go to the next part; otherwise, let us take a brief explanation.

The phrase scope ring is self-explanatory; even if you have never held one in your hands, you must have seen snipers in the movies shooting with a particular device called a riflescope. This riflescope is held firmly to the rifle by a scope ring, so you will never see a sniper holding the scope with their hands.

A riflescope helps to improve shooting accuracy, while a scope ring holds the scope firmly on the rifle. Scope rings are simple devices that allow you to attach the scope to your rifle and use it without difficulty. There are a lot of considerations to make before purchasing a scope ring.

Some of these include the height, type of rail, and a number of other variables. Fortunately, you will find a section in this article that provides all of the pertinent information about the subject.

So, before you proceed to the review part, check out the guide below because it will provide you with a clear idea of what to consider before purchasing any type of scope ring.

Types of Scope Rings

There are several types of scope rings available on the market for mounting a riflescope. Finding the right ring among the varieties might be difficult. To make your search easy, we have highlighted some of the ring types.

• One-Piece Scope Mount

These types of mounting systems have just one piece, as the name implies. As a result, putting them on your rifle would be very easy.

• Weaver Scope Mount

These are typically bolted mounts. That is, you must attach the riflescope to the mount using all of the available spots. They ensure a significantly more solid and consistent scope installation.

• Dual Scope Mount

These types of scope mounting rings are more versatile than others. They allow users to have room to make adjustments to the distance between the scope rings. This makes it easier to mount the scope exactly the way you want it.

• Picatinny Scope Mount

These are similar to one-piece mounts. Bolts must be used to attach both the mount and scope. As a result, you have more installation options.

• Dovetail scope mount

The dovetail mounting system, which is commonly found on an air rifle and rimfire rifles, consists of two grooves that are parallel to the barrel. The dovetail rail, sometimes known as a “tip off” mount, allows a shooter to readily remove or replace attached optics. So you can mount dovetail rings easily on this base whether you want to use it on an air rifle or any other rifle.

Although we have so many other types of scope mounts, these are some of the most common or popular scope mounts.

• Integral mount
• Offset mount
• STD scope mount
• MOA mount
• Quick detach mount

Market’s Top Scope Ring Brands

Let us check out some of the best brands that manufacture high-quality scope rings.

Vortex Optics

Vortex Optics was founded in 1989 as a division of the well-known corporation Sheltered Wings Inc. The firm has produced some of the best and most renowned gun attachments and optical equipment for a variety of shooting applications. This firm also makes good scope rings for rifles that have heavy recoil.

Leupold

When it comes to riflescopes, only a few firms can match the quality of the Vortex brand, and Leupold is one of those. This optical brand is among the best on the market. Its primary goal is to provide its customers with goods that are of exceptional durability, dependability, and adaptability.

Burris Optics

It makes no difference if you are looking for a rifle scope or a scope ring; Burris Optics has it all. Burris is one of the top scope ring brands in the market. they have been in business since 1972, and they are still producing quality optical accessories, including scope rings.

There are other scope ring brands like Seekins Precision and Warne. These brands are not popular when it comes to riflescopes, but when you talk of scope rings, they’re among the best.

Buying Guide for Heavy Recoil Scope Rings

Knowing everything about weapons and their accessories is crucial for a huntsman or marksman. One of the essential elements for mounting your scope is the ring, and we would help you understand all there is so that you can make an informed decision when you want to buy a ring to mount your scope on a heavy recoil rifle.

Ring Type

Traditionally, we have two major types of scope mounts. All other forms of scope mounting rings are made up of either of these two. So, first and foremost, you must decide which one you want. We’re talking about the single-piece mounts and dual-piece mounts.

As previously stated, a single-piece mounting ring has the easiest installation among the two types. Single-piece rings are often built with a light material, which allows for greater precision. Dual-piece rings, on the other hand, allow the gun owner to determine the space they want to have between the two rings.

There is no hard rule that makes one better than the other, its just a matter of preference for the shooter.

Materials Used

The type of material used to construct a scope ring or mount determines a lot on the mount. As a result, you must use caution while selecting this type of device.

Number one: The material chosen determines the weight. It is probable that it will impede your aiming accuracy if it is very heavy. As a result, you should choose a scope ring constructed with a light material.

Number two: It must not be fragile, even though it is lightweight. As a result, you must select a mount that is very strong and durable and can withstand the abuse of a heavy recoil rifle.

With these two factors in mind, we suggest that you choose anything composed of steel or aluminum. Both materials are incredibly long-lasting and lightweight, although aluminum is lighter than steel. They provide you with the highest performance you would need from your ring. With these materials, you are sure your scope rings will not break, regardless of the abuse by heavy recoil rifles.

Attachment Without Hassle

Another consideration is the ease of installation of the rings. Fitting a complicated ring may be physically and emotionally demanding. As a result, we recommend that you choose a mounting ring that is simple and easy to install.

Cost

Most shooters do not have so much to spend on shooting accessories, whether it’s a scope or a scope ring. In fact, you should not expect a shooter that is using a $200 riflescope to buy a scope ring of the same amount or more. So it is important that you double-check everything about the rings, including the cost.

Having a budget in mind before you go to the local gun shop or online marketplace would save you time that you would have spent admiring expensive and out-of-budget accessories.

Scope Rings Made of Steel Vs Aluminum

Scope rings are typically made of two sorts of materials. The first is made of steel, while the other is made of aluminum. However, there has always been a controversy over which of the two is superior. Let’s see what happens!

Weight

Aluminum is the obvious winner in terms of being lightweight. Although steel rings are not too heavy, but when compared to rings made with aluminum materials, they’re quite heavy! Because Aluminum is lighter, the total weight of the rifle and scope mount is reduced, which means you can carry your rifle and scope mount for a long walk without getting tired.

Being lighter also provides improved movement and control over the rifle. As a result, you may be more precise when aiming at or taking a shot with your rifle.

Longevity and durability

Steel is far more durable. However, aluminum comes out on top in terms of longevity. This is because steel corrodes more easily than aluminum. Aluminum, on the other hand, cannot withstand the amount of impact that steel can take.

Overall, aluminum is a better choice, even though it’s not as strong as steel. When all of the benefits are considered, it is a far superior solution over steel rings. Still, the decision is totally yours.

Best Scope Rings for Heavy Recoil Detail Reviews

Even if you’re using the most expensive and high-quality scope in the market, it will be totally useless unless you attach it to your rifle. We’ve got a solution! Here are some of the best scope rings on the market, suitable for practically any high-recoil rifle scope.

1. Vortex Precision Matched Rings

Are you looking for a rifle scope mount for your high recoil rifle? There is no need to worry any longer because we have the best ring here for you! Vortex Optics produces a wide range of high-quality shooting accessories, which includes this Vortex ring. So, if you’re looking for the best scope mount for strong recoil, look no further!

This Vortex ring offers excellent placement, allowing you to put the rings exactly where you want them to be. As a result, there is no undesired imbalance in your vision, and this allows you to have a first-class view through your optic.

This Vortex ring is well contructed. Each of the rings is made of aluminum. Aluminum is both lightweight and strong. Your shots will not be affected as a result of these features (a heavy-weighted scope ring can put additional weight on your rifle, and this could alter your accuracy).

Furthermore, the product’s remarkable sturdiness allows it to endure any abuses without difficulty.

But wait, there’s more. Vibratory toppling, serializing, and hand-bead blasting add to its toughness. It also has a type III anodized finish. As a result, we can tell you that this scope ring will have your back in practically any terrain or weather condition.

These Vortex Optics rings also have a stylish and appealing overall appearance. For you to successfully mount this ring and use it for the purpose you bought it, you have to ensure that the rings match the scope base on the rifle platform.

This rifle scope mount fits perfectly on a Picatinny rail. Trying to use it with another scope base might be challenging.

2. Seekins Precision 30mm Scope Ring

This Seekins ring is one of the market’s newest and fastest-growing optical accessory brands. The firm prioritizes ease and durability, which is why it created this gem!

Let’s go into the specifics. First and foremost, the item is superbly constructed. It is built to last and features a type III hard-coat anodized finish. This provides increasing immunity from environmental damages such as scratches, rusts, and dents.

It also gives the device the capacity to withstand very high recoil. As a result, it is a viable solution if you require consistent perseverance and endurance. You can use it with a heavy recoil rifle because it is built for that purpose.

Furthermore, the unit’s weight is quite little. It weighs about 0.19 kilos and has a plethora of features.

Because it is so light, it has no detrimental impact on your accuracy and allows you to be highly flexible. Such characteristics are essential on battlefields or during competitive shooting.

The installation of the scope ring is a breeze. Once installed on top of your rifle, you may mount almost any sort of riflescope on it. Because of its lightweight design, your gun’s mobility, precision, and control are unaffected. Pricing is also reasonable.

One of the issues with this ring is that it cannot be mounted on a weaver base; it only works on a Picatinny rail. This is because the crossbar on the base of the scope rings are too wide for a Weaver base slot. So if your rifle has a weaver rail, you will not be able to mount this Picatinny ring on it.

This Seekins ring has a 30mm ring diameter; as a result, you can only mount a scope that has the same scope tube diameter as the ring diameter.

When it comes to ring height, this Seekins scope mount has a .82-inch height. This ring height is not just low, but it is one of the lowest heights you can find. You have to ensure that the scope can sit properly on the ring without the scope bell touching the rifle barrel.

3. Warne Scope Ring

Purchasing the nicest rifle scope may be a total waste of money if you don’t have the right mounting system. However, we have a fantastic thing for you right now. With this ring, you will never have to deal with such a problem. The product has a notable method that permits you to repair practically any scope you choose.

This Warne scope mount comes with an all-fit function that allows you to fix practically any type of scope you desire without any problems. It also boasts a robust recoil control, allowing you to continually take precise and steady shots.

Installing this scope ring is also a piece of cake. The recoil control keys in both the front ring and rear ring are made of stainless steel.

This Warne scope mount is made of steel, so you can expect them to be as tough as a nail. The rings have a matte black finish that is meant to protect them from the elements. You just need to fasten the four TORX type T-15 socket cap screws (with a 25 inches/pound torque ) to get the finest experience.

4. Leupold Rifleman Rings

When it comes to mounting a high-quality riflescope, which are hard to come by, placement is everything. Not to worry, we have the ideal option for you! First and foremost, the Leupold brand will present you with a list of optical shooting accessories from which you may select the appropriate one.

Aside from being able to select the perfect size that you want, you will also benefit from the superior lifespan and ruggedity of their aceessories. Leupold scope rings are built of high-quality materials like aluminum. As a result, you are sure to enjoy excellent durabilityof the rings .

Because the rings are constructed of aluminum, this makes them quite light. As a result, the device adds no extra weight to the rifle and so does not impair your shooting ability. A heavy rifle will be inconvenient to shoot with.

Additionally, the product’s mounting mechanism is outstanding! It includes three distinct mounting bits that allow you to put the device atop your rifle with remarkable simplicity and speed.

Also, the mounting elements are constructed in a way that they can endure impacts from heavy recoil rifles. They are designed to retain and hold the rings firmly once they have been installed. Finally, you may enjoy all of this at a low cost. You now see why these rings are regarded as one of the best scope rings.

5. Burris Weaver Style Rings

Burris optics is a famous name in the field of optics. And, among all of its scope rings, this Weaver-type zee ring is the best for long range shots. Would you want to learn more? Continue reading!

Long-range rifles usually have a heavier recoil because of the distance the bullet needs to hit. Therefore you need a scope ring that is very strong and durable to mount your scope to a long-range rifle.

If you value precision, this scope ring is one of the best options you can consider. It features a bottom and top-matched fit, ensuring superior strength and a great fit. What this means is that when you add your scope to the rings, there would be no need for lapping because the rings were neatly deisgned to hold your scopes.

Also, the rings will not add a dent or scratch to your scope if you mount them correctly. The Burris rings are really lightweight. As a result, you can easily fit the gadget on your rifle.

Aside from that, the lightweight construction results in another feature (it weighs around 0.3 pounds), which is the stability of your rifle; as a result, you will be able to shoot precise shots without your rifle waving to the left or right because of the weight.

Furthermore, the rings are of the high kind, making them perfect for target shooting at long distances.

The ring’s general appearance is pretty fascinating. Unlike traditional matte-black hue of most scope rings, this ring is nickel. As a result, it offers your rifle a unique and exciting appearance.

This Burris Picatinny ring can sit perfectly on a weaver mount or Picatinny mount.

They are strong and long-lasting, making the fit for heavy recoil rifles. This wonderful product is available at a reasonable price.

6. Monstrum Tactical Cantilever Mount Dual Scope Ring

Do you want the greatest 1-inch scope ring for your heavy recoil rilfe? We’ve got just the ring for you! Because this scope ring is a one piece mount, there is no need for a lengthy installation procedure. This Monstrum ring includes a plethora of additional features.

Though the ring is slightly heavier than other mounting sytem, you can be sure that it won’t impair your gun’s mobility or precision. Also, because it is somewhat heavier, it assists with absorbing the recoil of strong rifles to a greater extent.

Its extraordinarily strong construction is another feature that makes it on the list of best heavy reoil rings to acquire. It is made of 6061 aircraft-grade aluminum. It can withstand any punishment or abuse from your rifle or the environment.

One of the disadvantages of a cantilever mount is that you cannot attach just any scope you want on them. They have a predefined spacing (2.38 inches) between the front ring and the rear ring; as a result, riflescopes that do not match that kind of ring spacing on their scope tube will not be able to sit on the rings.

The entire mount can easily be installed or uninstalled whenever you want to change the mounts. It is a Picatinny ring and will not sit properly on a Weaver rail. The mount is designed to fit a 1-inch scope tube and may be attached to any regular Picatinny rail-fitted rifle.

The entire length of the mounting system is 5.75 inches. It has a 3 inches long base, with mounting bolts placed 2 inches apart.

7. Talley Scope Ring Mount

Are you angry and frustrated because you can’t seem to find the perfect scope mounting device for your bolt action rifle or heavy recoil rilfes? If that’s the case, this rings could be of interest to you. Talley’s 40mm scope ring is a promising mountng device. Do you wish to know what distinguishes it from others? Well, this ring is incredibly strong. It is capable of surviving any heavy-duty caliber. As a result, you can shoot without fear of damaging your mounts!

Its solid design further demonstrates its abilty to hold zero at all time. As a result, overall accuracy is guaranteed. Installing this ring onto your firearm is a simple process; once completed, you will be able to use it with any scope.

The best part is that you’d get all of these benefits at the most reasonable prices.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is it possible to have a scope mount that is too low or too high?

Yes, it is possible to have a scope ring that is too high or low. If the ring is too low, you won’t be able to attach the scope, because the scope be will rub on the barrel. If it is high, there’s a good probability that you will always have to raise your face from the cheekpiece, reducing accuracy.

Is it an issue if the screw on a scope mount is overtightened?

Yes, it can damage the setup. Overtightening the mounting screw may result in damage to your scope tube.

Are the rings on a 30mm scope and 1-inch scope the same size?

No, they are not. The size of the scope tube determines the size of the mounting ring you will need. Although some rings may be used to install both a 30mm and a 1 inch optic, but it is very uncommon and you will have to lap the scope. This is not an ideal mounting procedure, and it is not recommended.

Tracy Schmidt | Originally published in GameKeepers: Farming for Wildlife Magazine. To subscribe, click here.

Health foods are all the rage these days, and none comes healthier than the pure-protein provided by white-tailed deer venison. Venison is low in fat, high in nutrients and packed with a whopping 44 grams of protein in one man-sized serving (six ounces). That’s more than half the daily recommended amount of protein for a healthy person.

Although pure, clean venison is the poster food for good health, it does come with some precautions. As with any meat, special care must be taken after your deer is down; during the butchering process; and, of course, in the kitchen. I’ll share my family’s best practices here.

A Few Words on CWD

No discussion on venison can occur in these modern times without first addressing the “Boone-and-Crockett class elephant” in the room: chronic wasting disease. CWD became a hot-button topic among Eastern deer hunters 14 years ago when the disease was discovered in free-ranging deer east of the Mississippi for the first time. It had been previously considered a Western deer disease (and elk and moose) confined to states like Wyoming and Colorado (where it was first identified in 1967).

The disease (transmissible spongiform encephalopathy – TSE) centers on abnormal brain proteins in deer which, when infected, always kill the animal. Human concern heightened when some scientists characterized the disease in the same category as Bovine spongiform encephalopathy (BSE) in cattle (Mad Cow disease) and Creutzfeldt-Jakob disease (CJD) in humans.

Although BSE has been linked to increases in CJD, there are no known links between CWD and any increased cases of TSEs in humans. In fact, several scientific studies have concluded that there is most likely a species barrier between CWD in deer and TSEs in humans.

Should we worry about CWD in our venison? If you hunt in an area with known CWD infection rates, common sense only dictates that you would want to have your deer tested, which is fairly simple and cost effective. More importantly, you should follow some basic handling precautions after your deer is down:

1. Field-Dressing Know-How

There are two important parts of the field dressing process: keeping the deer from becoming contaminated from its own waste and keeping external contaminants from entering the body cavity of the deer while you are working with it. Make sure to use a sharp, clean blade and to wear elbow length gloves when field dressing your deer.

Just behind the breast bone, make an opening through the skin and muscles of the upper abdomen. Insert two fingers of your gloved hand into the body cavity and keep the knife up and slice the skin apart down to and around the anus, making sure not to puncture the stomach and intestines.

Contamination from contact with digestive tract contents not only will taste bad, but it can be contaminated with bacteria which can cause food-borne illness at the point of consumption if the meat is not properly handled or prepared. Remove the genitals of a male deer and discard them. Cut around the anus and tie it off then draw the intestine back through the canal between the rounds, into the body cavity and out and remove through the body cavity. Be mindful about keeping your knife clean while you work. Keep all removed internal organs from introducing contamination to the meat. Try to avoid contact with the brain, spinal cord, spleen and lymph nodes while field dressing your deer. Make sure you remove all the internal organs.

Roll the deer over to drain any excess blood before you drag it, but be careful what you roll it over onto. If you are removing the head, use a separate knife for that than you used for working with meat areas. This will help you avoid cross-contamination. Another thing to avoid is getting dirt and debris from the ground into your deer and a personal dislike of mine, hair.

When you are done working, clean your knives and equipment with a 50/50 solution of chlorine bleach and water. Soak your knife for an hour to make sure it is sterile.

2. Cool Your Deer

Hang your deer and prop open the body cavity with a stick. My husband and I believe that using a head-down position is better because it allows heat to rise from the chest cavity more quickly. Some old-timers have chastised us for doing so, claiming that blood will pool up in the upper thorax. We ignore such criticism because the majority of the prime venison comes from the hind quarters. The few scrap-pounds of venison that could potentially be spoiled in the neck/shoulder area is a risk were willing to take if given the choice, but you know what? We’ve never lost an ounce of meat by hanging our deer from the hind legs.

During the early archery season, we also pack our deer with bags of ice to help cool it down. To hang a deer head down, simply insert a stout stick or meat-hanging gambrel between the hock and the tendons. Make sure to skin the hock before you hang the deer if you are going to do so yourself. It is very easy to accidentally cut the tendon when making the first cuts around the hock. Doing so would cause the deer to fall down.

A shady spot where temperatures stay at or below forty to fifty degrees is best for storing for two to three days. If it is cooler than your refrigerator, your deer may hang for a bit longer. Hanging the deer in a walk-in cooler is ideal, but you may quarter the deer and put it into a chest freezer.

Thawing and refreezing fresh meat once will not affect meat quality. If you are taking your meat to a professional processor you are ready to load your deer and go. Just make sure not to tie the deer to your vehicle’s hood since the engine heat will hasten spoilage. Some will pull the carcass in a trailer or in a pick-up bed without covering the meat. This just serves to introduce road-grit to your meat.

3. Choose the Right Processor

When we don’t have time to cut up our own deer we take them to a professional butcher. We are lucky to have a local grocery store that processes deer. We know that the deer are kept in a walk-in cooler and that we will be getting our own deer back to eat. We like that it is processed in a commercial kitchen with its clean equipment and health inspections.

It is important to get your own deer back when you try to be so careful while field dressing. Not everyone is as careful, so if you don’t know that you’re getting your own venison back you are taking some big chances. Make sure to ask about that before you drop off your deer.

We are also very selective of when we take our deer to the processor. We usually drive the deer to the processor during non-peak hours like weekday mornings. This allows us to personally drag the deer into the cooler and talk one-on-one with the butcher. It’s just like anything else: If you get to know the person, they’re more likely to look out for you the next time you show up.

When you don’t have time to do your own butchering, look for a professional setup. You want a butcher who will make sure you get your own venison back.

When you go to a butcher shop, look for cleanliness in the work area. Tables should be stainless and the floor should be clean. Look for working sinks and clean equipment. Talk to the people who work in the butchering area if you are able to have access to them to find out how long they have been processing deer. Don’t be afraid to walk away. After all, this is the food you’ll be serving to your family. If you’re going to pay to have your deer butchered, it only makes sense to find the very best butcher in your local area.

4. Skinning Techniques

During clear, cold weather, you can let your deer hang for several days on the meat pole or from a tree limb. Just be sure to hang it high and keep the chest cavity protected from the elements (and critters). During warmer weather, you’ll want to get the skin off as quickly as possible to assist with the meat-cooling process. Deer can be skinned while hanging head up or head down. There are plenty of quality videos online that show proper techniques. We prefer the head-down (back feet first) method because it allows for the hide to come off cleaner and more quickly.

With a razor-sharp skinning knife, start by cutting circles through the hair and hide just below the dew claws on the back legs. Next, make incisions along the inside of each back leg, running them through the hide along the leg bone all the way to the deer’s anus. Peel back the hide on each legs and pull the hide down (almost like removing a stocking) until both sides are skinned all the way down to the deer’s rump.

From there, work the knife around the tail to free up the hide from the hind quarters. This will now allow you to pull the hide down the deer’s stomach and thoracic cavities in one motion (when the deer is still warm). It’s almost as easy as pulling off a sweatshirt if you’re working on a freshly killed deer. If the deer is cold and stiff, you’ll need to use your knife a bit to help loosen the tallow from the hide.

Keep working your knife and pulling the hide until you get all the way past the front shoulders and past the deer’s neck. Don’t stop short. Pull the hide all the way to the head if you can. A lot of people make the mistake of stopping short once they get past the front shoulders. Don’t do that, because there’s plenty of good grinding venison in the deer’s neck.

5: Butchering Tips

I admittedly was intimidated when I helped my husband butcher a deer for the first time. It’s certainly something I wasn’t exposed to while growing up in Natick, Massachusetts. But after those first few deer, I soon learned to enthusiastically embrace the job because this is where we ensure our final food product. The quality of the meat is totally dependent upon what we do during the butchering process.

Making meat from a carcass is really quite simple. Just break it down into working-sized pieces and then take your time processing it from there. For example, we start by reducing the deer to seven main pieces: two hindquarters, two back-straps, two shoulders and the neck. True, there can be meat in the ribs but this section of the deer is best utilized when you a) are working on a large buck, and b) the deer was in pristine shape when you field-dressed it. Translation: Don’t mess around with the ribs if there’s any chance stomach contents leaked out during the field-dressing process. It’s just not worth the health risks of possible cross-contamination.

The back-straps are easy to remove. Just fillet them off the backbone of the deer as you would fillet a fish. Use the knife to feel your way around the spine. Once you have worked the knife halfway down the back-strap, you can oftentimes pull it the rest of the way. You’ll get two forearm-sized “logs” of meat from the back-strap of an adult deer.

For the hindquarters, you needn’t use anything but a stout, sharp knife. No bone- saws are necessary. Just use your knife to separate the muscle groups. It’s easy if you take your time. You’ll end up with three nice muscle groups plus a few handfuls of shank meat. Use that for stew or stir fry. The bigger chunks can be divided into roasts or sliced (always against the grain) into steaks.

Front shoulder and neck meat is almost always used for venison stew, chili and grinding meat in our home. When given the time, I’ll tie a shoulder roast or two for the freezer. These are ideal for weekend dinners in late winter. (Shoulder roasts need to be slow-cooked on low heat.)

Conclusion

Field-dressing, skinning and butchering a deer for the first time is about as intimidating as changing your car’s oil for the first time. However, once you get over those irrational fears, you’ll wonder why it took you so long to roll up your sleeves, because there’s nothing more satisfying than providing your family with an entire dinner plate of food you’ve grown, hunted and prepared all by yourself. Venison provides that satisfaction…in spades.

You may know about a few expensive mushroom varieties like truffles, but there are also some very rare and expensive mushroom varieties you may not have heard of.

This article will teach you about a dozen of the most expensive mushrooms in the world. You’ll learn how much each type costs and why they’re so expensive.

Why Are Some Mushrooms So Much More Expensive Than Others?

The most expensive mushrooms in the world only grow in the wild and are difficult or impossible for farmers to cultivate.

Since they can’t be mass-produced and only grow for a certain period of the year, they’re more scarce.

Varieties of fungi like truffles also grow under the ground, which makes them even harder to find, and therefore more costly (in time and money) to extract.

What Are the Most Expensive Mushrooms?

How many of these costly mushrooms have you heard of?

1. Kalahari Truffles

Cost: $4 per pound (£6.45 per kilogram)

Truffles have a reputation of being some of the most expensive types of fungi.

But though these truffles grown in the Kalahari Desert in Namibia, Africa may run slightly more expensive than your average grocery store button mushroom, they’re actually quite affordable.

Compared to the more popular white or black truffles, they have a more mild flavor and scent.

Their cheaper price is based on the fact that they grow in more sandy ground. They’re easy to find by looking for cracks in the sandy earth, so there’s no need to use truffle dogs or pigs to locate them.

2. Enoki Mushrooms

Cost: $8 per pound (£12.90 per kilogram)

Enoki mushrooms are now widely available in many grocery stores in North America and Europe. However, they don’t look like most other types of mushrooms that you can buy.

They have long, thin white stems with very small caps. They also tend to grow in clumps.

These little mushrooms have a mild flavor and make a nice addition to stir-fries. As long as they’re not overcooked, they tend to retain a lot of crunch.

3. Oyster Mushrooms

Price: $5 to $15 per pound (£8 to £24 per kilogram)

Oyster mushrooms are the second-most-common mushroom in North America and Europe.

They are exceeded in popularity only by the agaricus bisporus mushroom (which includes button mushrooms, cremini and portobello).

Oyster mushrooms are one of the easiest mushrooms to grow at home. Many mushroom farmers now grow them and they can even be grown from kits right on your kitchen counter.

Since they’re so easy to grow, they’re naturally the least expensive mushroom on our list.

These fungi are available in a wide range of colors including grey, white, pink, blue and others.

They’re best used fresh within a few days of harvesting, but they can also be dried.

4. Lion’s Mane

Price: $10 per pound (£16 per kilogram)

Lion’s mane is an interesting-looking mushroom with long, white spines. It looks a bit like a tiny mop, clump of hair or a little white hedgehog.

The flavor of lion’s mane is said to be similar to lobster or crab meat. You can eat these mushrooms raw but cooking lion’s mane enhances their flavor and texture.

Historically, lion’s mane was harvested from the wild. Now it’s fairly easy to cultivate in controlled environments.

Aside from being edible, lion’s mane is also used for its medicinal properties.

While lion’s mane sells for about $10 per pound when fresh, it can sell for significantly more when dried and powdered for use as a supplement.

Check out Growing Lion’s Mane Mushrooms: The Ultimate Guide if you’d like to try growing some for yourself.

5. Shiitake Mushrooms

Price: $7 to $15 per pound (£11 to £24 per kilogram), fresh

Shiitakes have been the favorite variety of mushrooms in many Asian countries for a while. They’re now quite popular in the west as well.

These fungi have a firm texture and a meaty flavor, which makes them great as a meat alternative in vegetarian recipes.

Many supermarkets and grocery stores now carry fresh shiitake mushrooms. They can also be found dried in bulk as well.

Shiitake mushrooms can be fairly easily cultivated, either indoor under controlled conditions, or outdoor when grown on logs. So they’re less expensive than most varieties on this list.

Although shiitake is mostly grown as an edible mushroom, it’s considered to have some medicinal benefits as well.

If you’ve got some spare logs laying around, try growing some shiitake using our resource How To Grow Mushrooms On Logs: The Ultimate Guide

6. Morels

Price: $30 to $90 (£21 to £65) per pound when fresh, $250 (£180) per pound or more dried.

Morels are some of the most sought-after varieties of fungus by mushroom hunters.

Once a mushroom hunter locates an area where morels grow, they’ll tend to keep it secret for just their family and friends. Morels will continue to grow back in the same place year after year.

Morels are very difficult to cultivate and they’re only available fresh for a few months each year in the wild. So they tend to command a high price.

They’re one of the most expensive mushrooms in the USA

7. Porcini Mushrooms

Price: $50 to $70 per pound (£80 to 112 per kilogram), dried

The porcini or king bolete mushroom is found in hardwood forests across Europe. They’re most common in Italy, although they can also be found in parts of North America as well.

You can recognize porcini mushrooms by their oversized caps and thick stems.

As with most expensive mushrooms, porcinis are difficult to cultivate.

So they’re harvested from the wild when they’re in season and then dried out to be sold around the world during the rest of the year.

8. Chanterelles

Price: $200 per pound (£320 per kilogram), dried.

Among most mushroom hunters, chanterelles are second only to morels.

These golden-yellow mushrooms are distinct and fairly easy to spot, without many look-alikes. However, they can cause illness and discomfort when eaten raw and need to be cooked.

They tend to pop up on warm humid days after rainfall.

Like most expensive mushroom varieties, they’re very difficult to cultivate and the majority are harvested from the wild.

If you happen to get your hands on some tasty chanterelles, be sure to read 30 Of The Best Mushroom Recipe Ideas to make the most of them.

9. Black Truffles

Price: $800 per pound (£1290 per kilogram) fresh

Black truffles are the most well-known type of truffle. Even though they aren’t as expensive as white truffles, they still come with a hefty price tag.

Like their white counterparts, black truffles are mostly found in the wild using pigs and dogs.

Some American and Australian mushroom producers have attempted to grow black truffles with limited success.

Since these fungi tend to grow at the base of mature oak trees, it’s a time-consuming and expensive endeavor.

That also makes black truffles some of the most expensive mushrooms to grow.

Most black truffles are bought by chefs at high-end restaurants.

There is even a bit of a “black market” for these truffles. There are numerous fake “black truffle oil” products on the market that are actually made from synthetic chemicals, rather than fungi.

10. Matsutake Mushrooms

Price: $1,000 to $2,000 per pound (£1600 to £3200 per kilogram)

Matsutake mushrooms are native to Japan. They look a bit similar to shiitake mushrooms, with shaggy brown caps. However, they have longer stems.

This Japanese mushroom has a distinct spicy smell and taste.

Like with products such as green tea, there are varying degrees of quality when it comes to matsutake mushrooms.

The best-quality mushrooms at the beginning of the harvest season command the highest prices.

Within Japan, you may be able to find them toward the end of the season for as little as $2 per pound, though.

For importing matsutake mushrooms into Europe or North America, the average cost is about $90 (£65) per kilogram.

The matsutake harvest has been drastically reduced over the past 50 years due to a pine-killing pest that affects the trees that matsutake grows around.

11. European White Truffles

Price: Anywhere from $1,000 to $4,000 per pound (£1600 to £6445 per kilogram), depending on the harvest that year.

White truffles are the rarest and most expensive of all the truffle varieties.

Although white truffles are actually quite common across Europe, they’re notoriously hard to find. Truffle hunters will often employ trained truffle dogs or pigs to help locate these expensive fungi.

So far, no farmer has successfully cultivated white truffles. That’s why the price still remains so high.

What Is the Most Expensive Mushroom in the World?

So what’s the most expensive mushroom in the world? The winner is…

The yartsa gunbu mushroom (Cordyceps sinensis).

Price: $50,000 per pound (£80,500 per kilogram), or $2,000 for a single ounce.

If you clicked this link while wondering how to grow the most expensive mushrooms in the world, things are about to get a little weird.

This mushroom is also known as the caterpillar fungus and for good reason. It infects the bodies of a specific species of caterpillars.

The fungus kills its host and then grows out of the caterpillar.

As you can imagine, these little mushroom fungi are hard to locate in the wild.

The caterpillars typically bury themselves a few inches into the ground before they die.

These mushrooms have also never been cultivated in a controlled environment.

Yartsa gunbu or cordyceps mushrooms are believed to be an aphrodisiac. It’s claimed to have other medicinal benefits as well.

Many people also simply eat them as a status symbol because of their rarity and cost.

Want to try growing something a bit more straightforward? See our article The five Easiest Mushrooms to Grow.

What Is the Rarest Mushroom?

The yartsa gunbu also wins the prize for rarest mushroom.

It’s not just that these mushrooms are only found in the wild growing out of caterpillars. They also only grow in a specific area as well.

These exceedingly rare and expensive mushrooms are mostly only found around the Himalayas, at altitudes from 3,000 to 5,000 meters (9,000 to 16,000 feet) above sea level.

Is There Any Cheaper Alternative?

Very few people are willing to pay $50,000 per pound (£80,500 per kilogram) for some mushrooms that grow out of caterpillars.

Luckily, there’s a much cheaper option.

While cordyceps sinensis is extremely rare and needs to be harvested from the wild, it does have a close relative that offers most of the same benefits.

Cordyceps militaris can be easily cultivated on much more conventional growing mediums (rice and soy) without the need to sacrifice insects to get it.

That means you can buy bottles of cordyceps militaris capsules for about $20 (£14.40), when the same amount of cordyceps sinensis would cost over $1,000 (£720).

Final Thoughts

There are some truly rare mushrooms out there, including some that cost thousands of dollars or pounds per serving.

What makes a particular type of mushroom expensive is usually an inability to cultivate it. Wild mushrooms only grow during a certain part of the year and they’re difficult to find.

Growing mushrooms doesn’t need to be expensive though.

If you’d like to try growing oyster mushrooms, our GroCycle Kits allow you togrow your own delicious mushrooms at home in just 14 days. They also make a great gift.

Or to grow them from scractch, check out ourmushroom growing courses.

Whether you just want to grow a small amount of mushrooms at home or start a Low Tech Mushroom Farming business, we offer something for everyone.

This month we shall take a closer view of the 270Winchester and how it compares to the 7 Rem Mag and the smaller 308Winchester

The following is a closer ballistic comparison of the 270Winchester, 7Rem Mag and 308Winchester. Together we shall go through their ballistic qualities as well as gauging their relevance in a real world scenario. I augur that this article will make you take a closer look at the cartridge and bullet combination you are using as well as question the way you make use of it.

Wherever I travel to, it seems hunters and shooters alike get into the debate between these 3 popular rifle cartridges. Is the 270Winchester an underestimated long range contender? Is the 7 Rem Mag a superior round? Where does the 308Win stand in this competitive rifle cartridge scenario?

Which cartridge most represents you?

A – 270Winchester (I already have one & it’s worked for so many hunters so why change it)

B – 7rem Mag (I Love 7mms, love the ballistic performance and can take out anything way out there)

C – 308Winchester (Ammo I can find anywhere, It’s killed everything under the sun. good enough to shoot FTR and Palma competitively)

In this series of Cartridge Wars – ballistics by Rifletalks, I shall attempt to dispel some myths as well as shed some factual data in ways which I hope will be easier to understand when comparing rifle cartridges. Keep in mind, here we are speaking of rifle cartridges in their standard CIP factory load format.

Factory loaded 270Winchester VS 7 Rem Mag VS 308Winchester

Each of these cartridges, 270Winchester, 7rem mag and 308Winchester can be handloaded to enhanced specs such as longer over all lengths, increased powder capacity, slower powders, better bullets, longer barrels etc. However, most shooters will acquire a rifle with a barrel length from 22-26 inches as made by most factories. Most of these cartridges, will shoot and burn 100% of their powder charge in a 24inch barrel. Naturally longer barrels provide additional speed as well as added challenges of maneuvering longer heavier barrels so let’s stick to 24inch. Having a few 30inch barrels myself, I’m well aware of this.

In order to find some common base line, I chose the loads as loaded by Hornady Precision Hunter ammunition. I shot this ammo in 6.5 Creedmoor and 30-06 and I believe it is outstanding and fairly well priced at around €2.20 a pop.

270Win – A closer look at bullet choice

The bullet choice is largely the most important component which connects you to your target. It cannot be overlooked. High ballistic coefficient hunting bullets are not as easy to find although most manufacturers nowadays like Hornady, Berger, Sierra, RWS, Norma and Lapua have all come up with their own line of high ballistic coefficient hunting bullets.

Some cartridges have seen better traction particularly due to their bullets being widely used in other popular cartridges, hence enjoying a wider selection of bullets. Take the 308Winchester (7.62) for instance, you can shoot anything from 110grain to 240grain bullets (if you have the correct rifle twist rate)

308caliber bullets: Source https://www.accurateshooter.com/gear-reviews/bulletguide/

Wherever you are in the world, you will find ready loaded 308Win ammo, bullets as well as powder, primers and rifles chambered for this cartridge. It’s comparable to the Land Rover Defender of rifle cartridges.

The 7 Rem mag also enjoys a huge variety of highly accurate 7mm bullets (.284). 7mm bullets are highly sought after in competition, made popular by cartridges like the 284Win among others as well as being very popular in hunting cartridges like 7×64 brenneke, 280ackley improved, 7×57, 280rem, 7RUM and more recently, the mighty 28 Nosler. Remember, it’s not the cartridge that makes it a hunting round but the bullet it is loaded with and to a large extent the weight of the rifle platform from which it needs to be fired from.

7mm (0.284) Above is an extensive line up of 7mm bullets https://www.accurateshooter.com/gear-reviews/bulletguide/

The 270Winchester on the other hand has enjoyed years as a leading hunting rifle cartridge but what is it’s ballistic performance like compared to the 7rem mag and the 308Winchester?

On my last trip I heard a lot of discussion about the 270win, the 7rem mag and the 308win. It seems all hunters and shooters have owned one of these cartridges, either because they inherited a rifle chambered for this cartridge or else it was just the first rifle they bought.

During our latest trip in the Pyrenees, one guy turns to me and asks, Rod should I change my Voere 270win Luxus for a better mountain hunting rifle? My reply, what are you going to gain over your existing chambering? He said, well I’ll get a flatter shooting round. From my target shooting experience, I know this largely depends on the bullet you are shooting rather than the cartridge or rifle. As soon as I got home, I started digging into this.

I know that the Austrian brand Voere lbw luxus 270win makes high quality rifles having shot their 338 Lapua mag version a few times grouping extremely well at 800m with it. In order to be able to guide this fellow shooter, I decided to show you their performance on 2 different levels, Drop in MOA as well as Windage in MOA. You may then decide for yourself.

In my view, Windage is what really influences my choice of that specific bullet & cartridge combination. Why?

Bullet Drop doesn’t bother me, once I laser my target and given I know my actual muzzle velocity, I will dial in that elevation and that will take care of drop. Irrelevant of how fast a cartridge you are shooting, past 400m they are all going to drop considerably that you will have to use a laser range finder before making the shot and you WILL need to know how much it drops exactly. For the scenario below, I am assuming you have dialed in your elevation after you acquired the ballistic solution from the many ballistic applications out there. I prefer Kestrel as it takes into consideration my real time atmospheric conditions as well as the ballistics and it’s spot on once you true your ballistic trajectory.

270Win Vs 7 Rem Mag vs 308Win Ballistics

Below: Notice how close the 270Winchester is to the 7rem Mag to 700m…. Do you still want to change your rifle mate? Why not try changing the bullet first.

270 Win – Windage

Read about the Voere LBW rifle above in 270Win here.

Windage on the other hand is a trickier skill set and comes by practicing sending rounds down range as well as practicing with a wind meter off the range. Most hunters seem not to spend a lot of time on the rifle range, they just zero their rifles at 100m and they set off. If you’re hunting short distance, that approach will be fine. If on the other hand, you’re expecting long shots as in some known regions of the world as is mounting hunting, that’s not going to cut it.

The wind drift table below shows these 3 popular rifle cartridges 270Winchester, 7 Rem Mag and 308Winchester and their wind drift component. I placed a game animal at 500m to give a practical example. The lateral deflection gives you an idea of how much drift you would get due to wind.

Ok so let’s find out the difference between the 270Winchester, 7Rem Mag and 308Winchester using some numbers and real-world case scenarios.

Let’s take the diagram above. We have a plains game ranged at 500m. We have a 10mph wind blowing from 3 o’clock (Full value wind). Below you can see how much each cartridge/bullet combo will drift, both in inches and MOA. For those new to adjusting for wind in MOA, at 500m/546 yards 1MOA = 5.6inches.

So let’s assume you have dialed in windage for this distance or you’re holding off your shot using the reticle hash marks. Now the wind speed drops to 7mph from 10mph but still blowing from 3 o’clock. This happens often and if you do not notice, you will be caught out. By how much?

Below: Here are the wind drift values for a 7mph wind.

When do faster cartridges matter?

Faster Cartridges like the 7rem mag and 270Winchester matter. If you were shooting a 308Winchester and the wind drops to 7mph, you now need:

16 inches of Right wind hold instead of 23 inches for a right wind, that’s 7inch difference.

Your 270Winchester would need 14 inches instead of 20 inches that’s 6 inches difference while your

7 Rem mag would need 12 inches instead of 17 inches, that’s 5 inches less correction.

Depending on which way the animal is looking, if it where looking into the wind, you would probably just miss it or just hit it as you would have over compensated but if it were looking away from the wind, you would miss and hit the animal in its hind legs.

Scenario A

Below you can picture this scenario where you are taking a shot at 500m in a 10mph from 3 o’clock (known as full value wind) We are holding off 4 MOA Right wind to compensate for the wind drift. We are shooting the bullet into the wind so that it will bring it back to where we want it to impact.

Should the wind speed change and the shooter not realize, this is what would happen assuming the wind direction does not change. The effects are further accentuated if the wind direction changes.

• 5mph wind – miss, shot would hit in front of the animal. (over compensate)
• 7mph wind – maybe a miss or barely hit (over compensated)
• 10mph wind – shot impacts exactly as shown below right in the lungs. (correct)
• 15mph wind – gut shot (under compensated)

1. b) Scenario B – 10mph wind from 3 o’clock with an animal facing away from the wind.

In order to hold 4MOA of Right Wind, we are aiming at his hind legs. Again we are pushing the bullet into the wind so that the wind brings it back to where we want it to impact.

• Wind drops to 5mph – Gut shot (over compensate)
• 7mph wind – Gut shot (over compensated)
• 10mph wind – shot impacts exactly as shown above right in the lungs. (correct)
• 15mph wind – Miss (under compensated)

With a 308Winchester, our Right Wind hold is almost the width of the entire animal at 500m.

Holding Off Windage with your 308Winchester

What does holding off look like in real world scenario? While on the range I managed to take this shot. We were not going to shoot the sheep, it’s just to show you what it looks like. The more you hold off, the large the chance for a miss. Here we are holding 6MOA LEFT WIND meaning we are shooting the bullet into the wind so that it would then blow it back on target. Do you want to learn how to develop a perfect load in under 50 rounds?

How do Faster cartridges like the 270Win and 7 rem Mag help us?

They basically narrow down the window that you should hold off as well as diminishing the error bracket. If you ever saw a wind plotting sheet on an Fclass score card, you would see something like this. Dots below the targets plotted to show where the bullet impacted when we dialed a specific wind correction.

Above: Notice the dotted lines that I drew up to show where the bullet impacted the target relative to my wind correction for that shot. It also gives me an idea of how much the wind changed and consequently its effect on my bullet over a 20-shot string at 1000yards. In this scenario we went from 4MOA estimate to 8.25 MOA Left wind call. That’s with a 284win shooting a 180grain VLDs at 2910ft/s, same performance of 7 rem mag!

How do you know how much you have to dial? You can work it out, there is a simple formula to get you there.

(Wind in MOA for 10MPH @3o’clock X by wind speed (mph) X wind direction value (0.5, 0.7, 0.85) = Wind Correction

Then you have to shoot and practice on the range to get proficient at that. A few hundred rounds a year done well will get you there.

Instead of holding all that wind, I prefer dialing in that wind component into my windage turret.

In the picture below, the shooter is dialing in 6 MOA RIGHT WIND. In this case he will not have to hold off his Windage. He will hold dead on target- centre mass. This is a learned skill and you have to practice, dial, adjust, shoot till you gain confidence adjusting the turrets with your eyes closed.

I took this picture through my Swarovski ATS 25-50×65 Spotting scope during Europeans while peeping at some of the windage adjustments during a course of fire. This ukrainian shooter had 6MOA on the very flat shooting 300WSM.

Swarovski z8i long range hunting scope

Swarovski BTF Elevation and Windage turrets enable you to do just that. Simple and fool proof to work with. I genuinely believe these are some of the best made turrets out there. Easy on, Easy Off. Moreover, these high quality windage turrets on the Swarovski Z8i enable you to dial 4 Mrad Left or 4Mrad Right then they stop turning, you can never get caught one full turn out. Read more about this Swarovski z8i scope which we used on a hunt in the Pyrenees.

After reading this article, will you be switching to another cartridge or will you explore how your own rifle/cartridge/bullet combination can provide you better ballistics? Contact Us with any feedback you may have and signup to our newsletter!

Take the time to prepare your turkey food plots

At this time of year, the questions usually start pouring in on how to attract turkeys for the upcoming spring season.

Most people don’t like to hear that many food sources turkeys love to eat should have been planted the previous summer for seed production and cover. Restoring native habitat for game birds like turkey and quail is also a growing section of wildlife management.

In my opinion, loss of habitat may be the number one factor in a list of many reasons for why quail numbers declined steadily over the last several decades. On the other hand, wild turkeys have enjoyed remarkable success in recent years. Now turkey populations are abundant across most of the United States.

Whether you want to attract turkeys and keep them on your property or wish to provide food and cover for a couple coveys of quail, there are several easy to plant turkey food plots that can be very beneficial. Millets, sorghum, and sunflowers are all easy to plant warm-season annuals. They can be planted as stand-alone crops or as a blend with other crops.

Plant Now, Feed Later

Many people want to plant something that provides food for wildlife within a couple weeks. That can work for deer, but it really doesn’t work that way for birds. For game birds, people really need to try to create food, cover and brood habitat essential for their survival. Giving the birds all they need through the changing seasons will keep them at home and discourage them from wandering to neighboring properties.

Millet, sorghum, sunflowers and other seed-producing warm-season annuals need 70 to 100 days of growth to mature and produce seed. As the plants mature and dry up in late summer and into the fall, they naturally begin dropping seeds. The maturity rate for plants depends upon what varieties are used. Of course, weather also plays a factor.

These warm-season annuals are relatively easy to grow and can be planted by broadcasting onto a prepared seedbed or by using a no-till drill or planter. I prefer a no-till drill for bird plots for a couple of reasons. The rows make it easy for smaller game birds like quail to navigate through an area. In addition, drills disturb the soil considerably less than using a disc or tiller. As a result, the planter usually has fewer problems with weeds.

If using traditional planting methods, I suggest spraying the area to be planted a week to 10 days before planting the seeds. Use a non-selective herbicide such as Round-Up to kill all existing vegetation in the plot. Ground to be planted can then be disced or tilled and then cultipacked or rolled to create a firm seedbed.

Seed can then be broadcast and lightly dragged in or rolled back over with a cultipacker. A pH range of 6.0 to 7.0 is usually needed for optimum growth and seed production. Since millets, sorghums, and sunflowers are fairly tolerant of acidic soils, people can plant them for birds in areas with less than ideal soil conditions. For fertilizer, I recommend using 13-13-13 at around 300 pounds per acre or an equivalent. These non-legume warm-season annuals are nitrogen lovers and it would benefit growth and seed production to implement a secondary nitrogen application four to six weeks after germination.

Go Native

A more long-term way to provide the lifecycle needs and improve habitat for birds is by using native warm-season grasses and plants. Varieties such as big bluestem, Indian grass, Maximillian sunflower, switchgrass, New England aster, Virginia wild rye and partridge pea are great choices. These native grasses and plants not only provide great nesting cover and feeding areas but also are very attractive to insects that are crucial to young birds. The bunch grasses provide open areas on the ground that makes it easy for young birds to traverse.

“Another big upside to planting game bird habitat, almost all other forms of wildlife benefit from it. I have found that whitetail deer love to use such areas for fawning.”

It doesn’t take an area with a large acreage to plant something effective for birds. Strips along the sides of roads, perimeters of large food plots, clearings in the woods and places like that all make suitable locations to plant something for birds.

Another big upside to planting game bird habitat, almost all other forms of wildlife benefit from it. I have found that whitetail deer love to use such areas for fawning. Many small critters, such as rabbits, really like to use these plots as well.

If you want to take your wildlife management to the next level, consider planting some areas specifically for birds to improve the overall diversity on the property. Even though you may only have an occasional covey of quail currently, there is no better way to help them multiply that by creating the food, cover and nesting areas they need.

Turkeys are somewhat creatures of habit. If a person provides them with year-round food and cover, they will not leave that area.

Fishing is a passion for some people including me but, as an amateur, I cannot spend hundreds of bucks on a baitcaster. During one of my visits to the market recently, I came across some of the best baitcasting reels under $100. Since I plan to learn on a baitcaster and polish my skills, buying the best baitcaster under 100 wouldn’t hurt.

You can find some even inexpensive choices but, make sure they have the right specs. A baitcaster wouldn’t work up to its maximum potential unless it has all the important factors. Finding the appropriate piece could be a hassle therefore, our team has shortlisted some of the top choices. All of the baitcasters reviewed below come with everything a beginner, as well as an expert, looks for in it.

I along with my fellow anglers tested out more than 15 baitcasters priced less than $100. From our intensive field experience SHIMANO SLX Baitcasting Reel is on top of the list of best baitcasting reels under 100. Followed by Lew’s Speed Spool LFS, and Abu Garcia Pro Max & Max Pro. Detailed review of each option is given below.

First a quick product review of baitcasters under 100:

Quick Overview – Best Baitcasting Reels Under $100

1. SHIMANO SLX Baitcasting Reel – Overall Best Baitcaster under $100
2. Lew’s Speed Spool LFS – Best For Casting Distance
3. Abu Garcia Pro Max & Max Pro Baitcast – Best Low-profile
4. KastKing Rover Round – Best For Conventional Fishing
5. Piscifun Spark Pro – Best Lightweight
6. Abu Garcia Revo X Low Profile – Best For Inshore Fishing
7. JOHNCOO Titan Baitcasting Reel – Best Entry-level
8. Piscifun Salis X Trolling Reel – Best Round Profile
9. Abu Garcia Ambassadeur S Baitcast – Best Saltwater
10. KastKing Spartacus II Baitcasting Reel – Best under $50

10 Best Baitcaster Under $100 in 2024

Now the detailed review of each baitcaster.

1. SHIMANO SLX Baitcasting Reel – Overall Best Baitcaster Under $100

Specifications

• Gear ratio: 6.3:1, 7.2:1, 8.2:1
• Max drag: 12 lbs.
• Hand Orientation: Ambidextrous
• Weight: 0.44 lbs.

I have seen my expert brother use numerous baitcasting reels including the high-end ones and Shimano was prominent in them. When I saw this reel, it made me stunned. It not only looks premium but feels too. All I wanted to know eagerly was about its performance. This model from Shimano can cast a mile effortlessly. Its capability of performing various techniques such as flipping and frogging for bass fishing makes it the best flipping reel under 100.

Because of the magnetic braking system, the reel is highly adjustable. I tried it with a 7 ft. medium-medium heavy rod for regular bass fishing. Whereas, the light rod was efficient enough for some trout and micro fishing. During my experience of using this reel for saltwater fishing, I didn’t encounter any trouble. Probably because I rinsed off the reel thoroughly with fresh water and lubed it after every use.

Pros

• Efficient braking system
• Casts amazingly
• Amazing high-end choice under a budget

Cons

• Some more pounds for drag could’ve been better

Verdict

Overall, the Shimano SLX is a workhorse for fishermen who rely on quality even if they are on a budget. Offering powerful and smooth performance, this product is indeed the best Shimano baitcasting reel under 100.

2. Lew’s Speed Spool LFS – Best For Long Distance Casting

Specifications

• Gear ratio: 5.6:1, 6.8:1, 7.5:1
• Max drag: 15 lbs.
• Hand Orientation: Ambidextrous
• Weight: 0.44 lbs.

Lew’s had made its name in the fishing industry for decades now and it was hard to resist testing this reel out. I used this reel for a good couple of months in freshwater and saltwater numerous times. Fortunately, I had no complaints about this best $99 baitcaster. It comes in three different gear ratios as mentioned earlier which allows a variety of fishing.

My field test was on the one with a 6.8:1 ratio and it was silky smooth right out of the box. Since it incorporates a magnetic braking system, having control over braking power was made effortless. I used the reel in the Wisconsin River with high success. The drag power was pretty amazing too whereas, the casting distance of reel was outstanding and no less than a dream. Its incredibly smooth cranking makes it the best cranking reel under 100.

Pros

• Casts a country mile
• High-quality
• Comfortable

Cons

• Could be a bit noisy

Verdict

This model from Lew’s is indeed a deluxe choice for all the anglers out there, making it one of the best baitcasting reels under $100. Considering its out-class specs and performance, I was able to compare it with my brother’s top-end Mach Crush reel.

3. Abu Garcia Pro Max & Max Pro Baitcast – Best Low Profile Reel Under $100

Specifications

• Gear ratio: 7.1:1
• Max drag: 15 lbs.
• Hand Orientation: Ambidextrous
• Weight: 0.46 lbs.

Abu Garcia produces some magnificent quality reels and rightly so, has a huge customer base. I would recommend Abu Garcia Pro Max & Max Pro Baitcast as one of the best baitcasting reels under $100 for all the right reasons. First off, its low-profile design not only adds to its physical beauty but offers optimum comfort to the users. With my small hands, I have always struggled with finding the best matches for me. But, this reel fits my palm easily, offering easy operation.

Speaking of the spool, it was super easy and I had no issues with that. Moreover, with the ultra-fast and smooth retrieve, I was able to catch species like Spanish Mackerel. I used an 8 lbs. braided line with this reel and it worked exceptionally. The gear ratio was super efficient for picking up the topwater slacks.

Pros

• High quality real
• Comfortable low profile design
• Great drag

Cons

• The casting distance could’ve been better

Verdict

Abu Garcia Pro Max & Max Pro Baitcast is one of the best Abu Garcia Baitcaster reel that has secured a sweet spot for most of the novice anglers mostly because of its low profile design and affordable price.

4. KastKing Rover Round – Best for Conventional Fishing

Specifications

• Gear ratio: 5.3:1
• Max drag: 30 lbs.
• Hand Orientation: Ambidextrous
• Weight: 0.88 lbs.

As I held the reel, it felt sturdy but chunky however, I still went on with testing it out. Catfishing is something that I have enjoyed maniacally so, with this reel, I planned on going for catfishing. After using the 12 lbs. mono line with the size 40 reel, I did not only succeed with catfish but a couple of others too including, walleyes, salmon, and northern musky.

One of my friends paired this reel with a 50 lbs. mono line and it cast like a dream hence, is an incredibly best casting reel under 100. Its centrifugal brakes work quite well and avoid backlashes. My field test lasted for nearly 5 to 6 months where I used the reel mostly for freshwater fishing. I tried it in saltwater very few times and there was no issue. The double-shielded stainless steel ball bearings protect from corrosion.

Pros

• Incredible drag power
• Suitable for large fishes
• Buttery smooth operation

Cons

• Heavier

Verdict

All in all, this reel could be a great choice for people who like to catch a variety of fish. It comes in different sizes which one can choose as per their preference.

5. Piscifun Spark Pro – Best Lightweight

Specifications

• Gear ratio: 6.6:1, 8.1:1
• Max drag: 16.5 lbs.
• Hand orientation: Ambidextrous
• Weight: 0.43 lbs.

This baitcaster is designed to provide the users with a redefined performance with smoothness. Rightfully so, when I used this reel, there was minimal to no backlash, thanks to the magnetic braking system. Moreover, the double-shaft supported line wind ensured better stability of the baitcaster.

During the field test, I paired this reel with multiple lines such as a 40 lbs. braided line as well as a 4 lbs. mono line. Fortunately, it performed outstandingly with both. With these lines, I was able to lure some amazing catches including walleyes, trout, and peacock bass.

Pros

• Lightweight
• Great value for money baitcaster
• No backlashes

Cons

• Average frame quality

Verdict

It would be totally safe to call the Piscifun Spark Pro the best baitcaster under $50. Despite being a pocket-friendly reel, it is not short on comfort and performance, thanks to its lightweight and impeccable specs.

6. Abu Garcia Revo X Low Profile – Best For Inshore Fishing

Specifications

• Gear ratio: 6.6:1
• Max drag: 18 lbs.
• Hand Orientation: Ambidextrous
• Weight: 0.49 lbs.

Another top-class baitcaster from Abu Garcia that I came across was the Revo X. It is also a low-profile reel, offering high comfort to the users. This reel accompanied me during my fishing adventure for 3 to 4 months and I loved every bit of it. From smooth operation to amazing cast and an efficient braking system, this baitcaster has so much more.

The Revo X never let me down regardless of the type of fishing I did. With this reel, I caught catfish, largemouth bass, steelhead, salmon, and trout. During my experience, I encountered a few backlashes which were easily eliminated by adjusting the brake and drag power. One of the best things about this reel is its ability to perform up to the mark for inshore fishing.

Pros

• Corrosion-resistant frame
• Ideal for inshore fishing
• Easy to prevent backlash

Cons

• Sideplate is prone to accidental removal

Verdict

Considering its marvelous features and high-end construction, this model from Abu Garcia is one of the finest and best baitcasting reels under $100.

7. JOHNCOO Titan Baitcasting Reel – Best Entry-level

Specifications

• Gear ratio: 7.1:1
• Max drag: 13 lbs.
• Hand Orientation: Ambidextrous
• Weight: 0.6 lbs.

This one was among the top heavy-duty low-profile baitcasters that know well how to perform in freshwater as well as in saltwater. Due to its corrosion-resistant mechanical parts, I was able to thrust it inshore for saltwater fishing. My experience of using this reel with a musky fishing rod was beyond my expectations. Considering its price point, I wasn’t hoping for such a brilliant performance.

The 13 lbs. drag power might be insufficient for some professional anglers but, I was pretty happy with it. This reel helped me catch some interesting species such as calico bass and rockfish. After pairing it with a 20 lbs. mono line, I was stunned to see how the reel holds an adequate amount of line.

Pros

• Superb performance
• Casts far
• Heavy duty reel

Cons

• The inefficient braking system might cause backlash issues

Verdict

If you are new to fishing adventure and want the best baitcaster under $75, this one could be it. Though it has some cons but, considering the price point and other features, one can’t ask for more than what this reel already offers.

8. Piscifun Salis X Trolling Reel – Best Round Profile

Specifications

• Gear ratio: 6.2:1
• Max drag: 37 lbs.
• Hand Orientation: Ambidextrous
• Weight: 2.2 lbs.

Are you in search of the best round baitcaster under 100 that works well for large fishes? This model from Piscifun could be your ideal match. Made out of truly premium materials, this reel is indeed a beast. It operates like a charm and is super comfy in the hands despite its heavy weight.

Its line capacity is tremendous which I figured out after using it with the 80 lbs. black lunker braided line and the entire 547 yds. of the spool was held by the reel effortlessly. I took this buddy to various fishing sessions where I was able to catch huge species such as 20 lbs. black drum, 5 lbs. flounder, and more.

Pros

• Drag power helps fight the largest of fish
• Massive line capacity
• Powerful performance

Cons

• Very bulky

Verdict

Piscifun never fails to amaze its users and this model is a true example of it. Our entire team absolutely loved how this reel performed. We all would happily refer to it as one of the best baitcasting reels under $100.

9. Abu Garcia Ambassadeur S Baitcast – Best Saltwater

Specifications

• Gear ratio: 5.1:1
• Max drag: 11 lbs.
• Hand Orientation: Ambidextrous
• Weight: 0.65 lbs.

If you still haven’t found your perfect reel, don’t stress out. This Abu Garcia baitcaster is the best saltwater baitcaster and offers the best bang for the buck. While this wasn’t as high in quality as the expensive Abu Garcia models but still did a wonderful job for its price. Since it is a larger round profile reel, I tried deep jigging and trolling with this one and it worked marvelously.

The adjustable brakes make avoiding backlashes super convenient. I used this saltwater baitcaster with a 30 lbs. fishing line and it helped me succeed in catching salmon, steelheads, and sturgeons. Moreover, after using the Suffix 932 braided line, the reel casted a country mile like a dream.

Pros

• Comes with a bait clicker
• Smooth retrieve
• Adjustable brakes

Cons

• The spool release button keeps sticking down

Verdict

What else could be better than investing in a reel that works well for numerous fish in fresh and saltwater both, is comfortable to use and above all, is priced right.

10. KastKing Spartacus II Baitcasting Reel – best Cheap Baitcasting Reel

Specifications

• Gear ratio: 7.2:1
• Max drag: 17.6 lbs.
• Hand Orientation: Ambidextrous
• Weight: 0.3 lbs.

KastKing lives up to its name because of the top-notch reel it manufactures. Despite being priced as low as under $50, this reel performed way beyond my thoughts. The moment I read about its specs, I was eager to try it out on my own. My testing lasted for approximately 6 months and I enjoyed using this reel a lot.

The reel came well lubricated and its mechanical parts operated as smoothly as butter. I used it for saltwater fishing but rinsed and oiled after every use. I was surprised to see that this reel casts farther than the traditional pricey baitcasters. During my test, this reel held 125 yds. of a 20 lbs. mono line which was simply incredible.

Pros

• Featherweight
• Great drag power
• Corrosion-resistant mechanical parts

Cons

• Smoothness could deteriorate if not taken care of properly

Verdict

This model from KastKing is considered one of the best baitcasting reels under $100 for the right reasons. I was able to catch fish like rainbow trout, crappie, muskie, and more with this baitcaster.

Buying Guide

You can’t purchase the best baitcaster reels under 100 unless you know the important considerations. Since these reels are relatively less pricey, you must ensure that they don’t lack the key features and are compatible with best baitcasting rods under 100. To make the search less hassle for you, we have explained the vital specifications in detail below.

Materials

While searching for baitcasters, you will come across two major materials used for its crafting i.e., aluminum and graphite. High-end manufacturers generally opt for aluminum to create exceptional quality reels. However, graphite is less durable than aluminum and therefore comes at a cheaper price point.

You can still find some great reels made out of aluminum by companies that never compromise on quality regardless of the price.

Gear Ratio

Baitcaster gear ratio plays a crucial role in the overall performance of a baitcasting reel so, don’t overlook this factor. A higher gear ratio accounts for more line on the reel. The typical gear ratios available in baicasters include 7.1:1, 6.4:1, and 5.3:1. Choosing the gear ratio depends on the type of fishing you wish to perform.

7.1:1 is considered a higher gear ratio and best suited for professional anglers. It is also a good choice for people who burn the bait back to the boat no matter what. These are best used to catch species like toads and topwater frogs.

The 6.4:1 gear ratio is a medium gear ratio that the majority of the fishermen opt for because of its all-around performance. The best thing about this ratio is its ability to be used for every kind of fishing and baits. For example, topwater, jigs, worms, shallow cranking, and more.

Lastly, the 5.3:1 is a relatively low gear ratio and is best recommended for slow rolling massive spinnerbaits, deep diving crankbaits, bigger swimbaits, and more.

Max Drag

I personally love an adjustable drag since it helps to catch a variety of fish. The drag of a baitcaster refers to the tension exerted on the spool while using. Reels with greater max drag are suggested if you intend to catch larger species such as bigmouth bass, etc. The top recommended max drag for various conditions are:

• Freshwater fishing: 20-65 pounds (depending on what you’re fishing)
• Saltwater fishing: 20-65 pounds (same as freshwater fishing)
• Inshore fishing: minimum of 15 lbs.
• Offshore fishing: minimum of 30 lbs.

Always get a reel with drag power that will help you to maneuver your desired fish without adding too much tension on the spool. The max drag varies with the size of reels so, make sure to check with due care.

Braking System

Reels with an efficient braking system enhanced my fishing experience impeccably. Since these prevent issues like backlash and bird’s nests, you enjoy every bit of your adventure. There are following two common types of braking systems in baitcasting reels i.e., magnetic and centrifugal.

The magnetic braking system relies on magnets to slow down the spool speed. It also allows you to control the braking of your reel. Generally, nvoice anglers love investing in best baitcasting reels for beginners with a magnetic braking system.

Contrarily, the centrifugal braking system also serves the same purpose of slowing down the spool. However, it does so by using the pins. Users also have access to every pin which allows them to adjust the braking power.

Hand Orientation

A lot of people overlook this factor while purchasing a baitcaster for under $100. Most of the top-notch reels come with an ambidextrous hand orientation which can be used by right-handed and left-handed. However, some pocket-friendly choices under $100 might lack this feature.

So, assure that the reel you are getting comes in your desired hand orientation, or else it would be useless. Also, it must have a soft grip that is comfortable to use so that your hands aren’t sore after hours of fishing.

Also Read our Related Guides On Baitcasters

• Best Baitcasting Rods Under 100 in 2024
• Best Baitcaster For Light Lures
• Best Baitcaster Combo Under $100
• Best Baitcaster Under 200
• 10 Best Spincast Reels 2024 – Spincasting Reel Reviews

FAQs

What is the best baitcasting reel for beginners?

Novice anglers are advised to purchase a baitcasting reel that isn’t too expensive and offers better control. While the market is loaded with such reels, the best option according to my research is SHIMANO SLX Baitcasting Reel. It weighs super-light hence, is comfortable to use, it can be used for a variety of fish and in freshwater as well as saltwater. Moreover, its low price makes it one of the best baitcasting reels under $100 for beginners.

Which one is better for a baitcaster: mono or braided line?

A mono line costs less and holds knots better as compared to the braided line. It is an ideal choice for small-sized baitcasters. The mono line also sorts out bird’s nest issues brilliantly. Whereas, the braided line offers more amount of fishing line on the spool and is pricier. The choice solely depends on one’s personal preference and type of use.

How can I avoid backlash?

When a spool has a faster spinning speed than the fishing line, the backlash is initiated. The best way to avoid backlash is by investing in best anti backlash reel with an efficient braking system since it decelerates the spool speed. You can also adjust the tension on your reel’s spindle for better performance.

Conclusion

For me, picking the best baitcasting reel under $100 was extremely daunting, especially with the extensive choices around. But, as I narrowed my search down to the products with the best specs, I was able to shortlist the right baitcasters.

Out of all the reels I have reviewed, the best baitcasting reel under $100 is none other than the SHIMANO SLX Baitcasting Reel. It boasts all the crucial specifications that one looks for in a high-end baitcaster. From robust durability to splendid performance, this $100 reel has a lot more to offer than one expects.

After testing numerous reels, I would sincerely suggest all the anglers to carefully consider the important factors of the reel you are interested in. This is the only key to finding your best match.

To see the Benelli M4 in action, check out the video above. For more gun content, make sure to subscribe to Pew Pew Tactical on YouTube.

Tactical shotguns are favorites among the home-defense crowd, known for their reliable performance and ability to adapt to close quarters environments.

And the Benelli M4 is no exception. This Italian 12-gauge has a reputation for being a solid autoloading shotgun with style, unlike most others.

But what makes this shotgun so good?

Well, we’re going to find out today as we explore the legendary M4. Spoiler alert: it’s a beast.

I’m going to run you through the specs and features; then, we’ll take it to the range here in my home state of Tennessee and at Thunder Ranch in Oregon.

By the end of this article, I might just have you convinced why I think the M4 is one of the best combat shotguns on the market.

So, if you’ve ever caught yourself gazing at the M4 and wondering, “what if,” keep reading…

Let’s get the boring stuff out of the way first.

The M4 is a 12-gauge automatic shotgun with a barrel that sits at 18.5-inches. It eats 2 3/4 or 3-inch shells and comes in a few different models.

Mine happens to be the anodized black version.

It weighs in at a hefty 7.8-pounds with an overall length of 40-inches.

Controls sit where you expect, with the cross-bolt safety located where you need it.

Some say the bolt release is a little small, but I think it’s okay.

The ergonomics are fantastic on this shotgun. That over-molded pistol grip feels big and solid — perfect for handling heavier loads.

(By the way, I think for a combat shotgun, you need to go with a pistol grip.)

On the front, the M4 shipped with a plastic front grip.

It was okay, but I opted for an aftermarket M-LOK handguard so I could add a flashlight down the road.

As far as aesthetics, the M4 looks great.

The Benelli branding is minimal and super clean – though I have no idea why an Italian gun has an American flag on it. Regardless, I like it.

It didn’t come with much, just a box and the gun itself. So, I added one of our own Pew Pew Tactical Flatline rifle straps and a red dot.

ARGO

As I mentioned, this gun is a beast. It runs and runs well, but what makes it all work?

At the heart of the M4 rests the Auto-Regulating Gas-Operated system.

The ARGO system offers a short-stroke, dual-piston design. It was originally created and approved for use by the U.S. Marines in 1998.

And this bad boy thrives on heavier loads. Not to mention, the pistons are self-cleaning.

But if you do need to clean it, it all field strips super easy with no tools. It’s a ridiculously simple design.

Personally, I love that it is self-cleaning, not because I’m afraid to clean a gun. But because it runs clean.

The M4 will run forever in the field, and you won’t have to worry about reliability.

Why So Expensive?

Get the aloe, y’all…this is going to burn.

Depending on the setup, MSRP on the Benelli M4 comes in between $2,000 and $2,300.

Street price is $1,800 to $1,900 unless you want the collapsible stock…which is unobtanium.

And if you do find one, expect to double the price of the gun.

Full disclosure, I paid full pandemic price for mine – buy once, cry like six times.

Why is this gun so darn expensive?

Blame it on the Italians, man. Italian shotguns have long held the reputation for being premium builds with top-of-the-line pricing.

While $2,300 seems steep, compared to other Italian guns (like Beretta’s DT11 topping out at $20,000…no typo there), it’s kind of a steal at $2K.

But really, with the M4, you pay for the reliability.

This shotgun will literally go through the apocalypse with you. You can’t stop it.

And that tends to be well worth the price, especially if you consider it for defensive purposes.

With all that said and done, let’s talk about how it did at the range…

How Does the M4 Shoot?

I took the M4 to Thunder Ranch for a private shotgun class with Clint Smith.

TV Guide version: it feels like a precision machine – smooth and easy.

Back home in Tennessee, I used Kent number 7 alongside some higher brass turkey loads, which I think are Winchester.

One of the things I like about this gun is the trigger. It’s short, light, and crisp. No complaints here.

Combat loading on the M4 feels super clean. You just drop in a shell, hit that release, and you’re ready to rock and roll.

The rubber on the stock and the overall weight eat a lot of the recoil, meaning you can run this all day without needing to see your chiropractor.

Accuracy-wise…it gets the job done. I mean, the Marines use it for a reason. I brought out a bag of Granny Smith apples for my testing because blowing stuff up with shotguns is a good time.

I also used rifled slugs to touch out to 100-yards.

How’d she do? Just fine. Again, smooth is the word of the day, and that’s how she ran.

Even with the stock iron sights, the M4 just works. I eventually added a Sig Sauer Romeo 5 to mine, and that ups the ante.

(If you need some optics suggestions, check out our guide to the Best Red Dots for Shotguns.)

Downsides to the M4

Now, everything has a downside. There’s no such thing as perfect, and the M4 has a flaw – the capacity.

Because of our wonderful government and 922R nonsense, all M4s come as a 5+1. That’s kind of lame.

Also, you may hear guys on the internet say the M4 doesn’t do so well with light loads. In my experience, it eats light loads just as well as it eats the big stuff.

Again, it’s durable and built like a tank, but it’s heavy. Fully loaded, it sits at over 10-pounds, so eat your Wheaties.

Also, once more, there’s the price. This gun ain’t cheap.

And the aftermarket goodies are high too. The entire M4 market is a little out of control. Blame John Wick. And the Italians. And the Marines.

But speaking of the aftermarket…

Benelli M4 Upgrades

One of my favorite things about the Benelli M4 is the upgrades…there’s a lot! From foregrips to magazine tubes to optics and lights, you can customize what you want.

Need some help getting started?

Off the bat, swap out the standard sights for some Meprolight Night Sights.

Then throw on a red dot. I used the Sig Sauer Romeo 5, but the Trijicon RMR works too.

While we’re talking optics if you want to mount the optic low enough to co-witness with irons, grab a Scalarworks Mount.

Remember how I said it has a low capacity? You can work around that with a Mesa Tactical Sureshell Carrier.

Also, grab an M-LOK handguard to throw on some accessories. One of our other writers, Travis, prefers the Strike Industries Hayl Rail.

In fact, Travis has a whole article dedicated to his favorite Benelli M4 upgrades.

By the Numbers

Reliability: 5/5

Some guys on the interweb have complained about trouble with birdshot. For me and multiple thousands of rounds of birdshot, the M4 is perhaps the most reliable gun I’ve ever run.

Ergonomics: 4/5

The big grip is fantastic, and the controls are solid. The foregrip it comes with is so-so but is an easy replacement for something bigger.

Accuracy: 5/5

Rifled slugs at 100-yards? Fuggedaboutit.

Customization: 5/5

The aftermarket for the M4 is robust, albeit overpriced — lots of options for magazine tubs, night sites, rails, handguards, and more. OK, maybe not as many options as we’re used to in the AR world…but for a shotgun, the Benelli is the top of the heap for dialing in your gun.

Value: 4/5

You get a LOT for the price. But boy, that price…

Overall: 4.5/5

This is a little odd because I call the M4 the best combat shotgun on planet Earth…so shouldn’t it be a 5/5? Well, that price is painful, and it’s heavy. And I think most folks will want to swap out a couple of things on their stock Benelli. So yeah, it’s a crazy solid gun…but still sitting at a 4.5.

Conclusion

Benelli’s M4 stands as a shining example of what a good Italian auto shotgun can do.

Far and away, it’s the best combat shotgun on the market. This autoloader looks great, runs smooth, offers up a certain cool factor, and you can trust your life to it.

It earns two huge thumbs up for me. Without hesitation, I recommend you run out and buy an M4.

PPT Writer, Travis Pike, contributed to this review.

Again, to see the Benelli M4 in action, check out the video below.

What do you think of the Benelli M4? Let us know in the comments below. For more combat-style shotguns, make sure to peep our list of the Best Home Defense Tactical Shotguns.

Muzzleloaders, like firearms, benefit greatly from load experimentation. That doesn’t mean you’re weighing charges to 1/10-grain accuracy on a digital powder scale. Rather, it implores that you shouldn’t be satiated with the generic, 100-grain/vol. load consisting of two .50 caliber, 50-grain/vol. black powder substitute pellets. The prudent choice is to “work up” loads incrementally, as well as tryout “new-for-you” propellants. Until you do, you’ll never know what your muzzleloader is truly capable of. So, what’s the best option for you and your muzzleloader? Read on.

Black PowderA staple for traditionalists, authentic black powder is an option for the modern muzzleloader hunter, too. Thanks to its simple, albeit sensitive, composition consisting of charcoal, potassium nitrate and sulfur, true black powder is easily ignited, which is why—in its FFFFg size—it’s used for priming flintlocks’ pans. That last ingredient, however, is the reason that black powder produces its infamous “rotten egg” smell (once fired). Black powder is hygroscopic, meaning it will absorb moisture from the air if exposed to it. As such, it’s not the best choice for humid environs or wet conditions. Concerning its sensitivity, black powder is classified as an “explosive,” hence the reason you don’t find it on the shelves of big-box stores or smaller gun shops. It can be easily and inexpensively ordered online, though.

When uniformly measured (volumetrically), premium black powder, such as Swiss, offers excellent shot-to-shot consistency for superb accuracy with respectable velocities. The tradeoff, though, is dirtiness. Black powder is terribly inefficient, leaving much highly corrosive residue remaining after each shot. This must be cleaned in short order, otherwise the muzzleloader will assuredly be ruined. Moreover, subsequent shots without swabbing the bore result in especially difficult loading—made worse with tight-fitting sabots. Cleaning, though, requires no fancy cleaning products; instead, just soap and water, followed by a coating of rust preventative. I favor Ballistol.

Offered in multiple grain sizes, FFg is best suited to the utilitarian, .50 caliber muzzleloader. Popular brands include Swiss, Goex and Goex Olde Eynsford, and Graf & Sons.

Pros: Consistent (when uniformly measured); Accurate; Easy to ignite (works in flintlocks, sidelocks and inlines); Less costly than most black powder replacements.

Cons: More difficult to find; Dirty; Smells awful; Inefficient; Highly corrosive; Hygroscopic.

Black Powder SubstitutesFew inline muzzleloader hunters today venture into the realm of black powder—and for good reason. Black powder substitutes—which are not classified as “explosive,” but rather fast-burning “smokeless powder” (i.e. propellant)—offer many of the benefits of the elder without most of the detractions. These vary depending on the specific product. For example, the original black powder replacement, Pyrodex, gives a boost in external ballistics when compared to identical black powder charges; however, since it contains sulfur, the same post-shot stink is present. Pyrodex is slightly more difficult to ignite than black powder, but it can still be employed in same muzzleloaders. Pyrodex is somewhat hygroscopic, as well as corrosive—don’t clean your muzzleloader in a timely manner and it’ll rust for sure. Soap and water will remove any Pyrodex residue.

While Pyrodex RS continues to occupy a sizable portion of retailers’ shelves, as is especially evident by the heavily discounted prices of the numerous leftovers come the end of hunting season. Many muzzleloader hunters have made the switch to the newer substitutes. Hodgdon Triple-Se7en was the first such new-generation propellant. Not only did Triple-Se7en offer improved external ballistics, but the rotten-egg smell was jettisoned, too; in fact, that was a major marketing point for Hodgdon. It’s still highlighted on the label. Since that propellant debuted, many other powders have emerged. Today, there are several options outside of Hodgdon Triple-Se7en, such as Alliant Black MZ (now discontinued, but still can be found for sale), Accurate BlackHorn 209 and American Pioneer Powder (APP).

Alliant Black MZ is among my favorites, and I’m sad to see it go. Manufactured by APP to Alliant’s specifications, Black MZ has a lot to offer—good efficiency (i.e. external ballistics for a given charge) and shot-to-shot consistency (think accuracy), simple, stink-free, water-soap clean up, easy ignition (can be ignited by my No. 11 percussion caps), it’s non-hygroscopic, has very minimal corrosiveness and is reasonably.

Accurate BlackHorn 209 has many of the same attributes as Alliant Black MZ and then some. Per a given charge, BlackHorn 209 will provide the highest velocities of all black powder replacements. It’s also consistent in granule size for precise measuring, as well as leaves minimal, non-corrosive residue. This eases the cleaning process and negates swabbing between shots. Subsequent loading is easygoing. It’s also minimally hygroscopic, and the shelf life of the product is consistent with smokeless propellants without clumping. But there are a couple things to consider before purchasing BlackHorn 209.

First, your muzzleloader must have a breechplug with an enclosed 209 primer. Most new muzzleloaders do, though. Next, you’ll need to use standard 209 shotshell primers for ignition, forego muzzleloader-specific primers. According to Accurate, also incompatible are No. 11 percussion caps, musket caps and rifle/pistol primers. You cannot exceed a 120-grain charge, either, though you really don’t need to. Oil-based cleaners, such as those used on your modern firearm, are used to clean BlackHorn 209, not water. Lastly, a 10 oz. container of BlackHorn 209 will cost you around 10 dollars more than a full pound of the other black powder replacements. Many muzzleloader shooters and hunters believe the cost is justified.

Pros: Superb external ballistics; Consistent; Accurate; Easy to clean; Low residue; No smell (except Pyrodex); Easier to purchase; Less corrosive (except Pyrodex).

Cons: More expensive; Muzzleloader specific (BlackHorn 209)

Pelletized PowderEase of convenience is what sells pelletized black powder replacements. The process cannot be simpler—drop the pellet(s) in the barrel, firmly seat a bullet atop and then add the ignition source. Done! There’s no powder to measure or spill. Sounds great, right? Sure, but are you getting peak performance from your muzzleloader?

Unlike the aforementioned loose powder, pellets offer minimal load customization. With regard to accuracy, you get what you get—your gun will shine or be “so-so.” Fact is, many muzzleloader hunters are okay with “so-so” performance. By purchasing 30- and 50-grain/vol.-equivalent .50 caliber pellets, you can venture beyond the utilitarian 100-grain/vol. load. But, outside of online outlets, finding those 30-grain/vol., .50 caliber pellets is quite difficult. Loose powder offers the muzzle hunter far better load customization options, and thus performance.

Pelletized powder has many of the same advantages and disadvantages of loose powder. Since ignition on most new inline muzzleloaders is the ubiquitous 209 shotshell primer, lighting off pellets isn’t a problem. But for older No. 11 percussion cap models, such as original, unaltered Knight Rifles, Pyrodex pellets are the best choice. Why? Featuring a ring of black powder on their base, the pellets are easily ignited by No. 11 caps. By using them, though, you’ll be rewarded with the consequences of black powder and Pyrodex outlined earlier.

Choices of pelletized powder include Hodgdon Pyrodex, Triple-Se7en and Triple-Se7en Magnum, IMR White Hots and Alliant’s new Blue-MZ—a replacement for the discontinued Black MZ.

Pros: Same as Above

Cons: Same as Above

As big-game hunting seasons are winding down in most states, it’s time to look ahead to next year. That leaves you plenty of time to experiment. What will be your muzzleloader’s “go juice”?

To be very clear, moose is the largest species of deer, and no other species of deer can compete with moose size or height. After moose, elk is the second largest species of deer. If you aren’t a hunter or don’t live in those parts of the world where moose are found, you are surely unaware of the actual size of the moose or maybe just have seen it in pictures.

Further Reading

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To make it easier for you and give you a clear picture, a fully grown moose look taller and bigger than even a horse. There are different subspecies of moose that are of varying size and weight. Most of the subspecies are taller as compared to other animals.

In this article, you can find out the average size of every subspecies of deer and compare their size with humans and animals, including deer, horses, and elephants.

Moose Size Comparison – Subspecies of Moose

The name of the deer family in Latin is “Cervidae,” and the moose is the tallest and biggest species of the Cervidae family. Moose are brownish-black, almost black. Their appearance seems a little similar to a horse as both have long legs and the same body shape. However, moose have antlers while horses don’t.

Furthermore, moose have a droopy faceand dewlap covered with hairs. Their antlers are widespread, long, and have branches. So they add to the tall appearance of moose.

Moreover, there are a vast number of moose inhabited in Canada. The word moose evolved from the word “moosh,” which is from the language of the Innu people in Canada. There, “moosh” means bark eater. However, In European countries, moose are known as elk.

Moose has different subspecies, out of which four are the most prominent in Canada. These include (Alces alces America) Eastern moose from eastern Canada and the United States.

Alces andersoni, commonly known as northwestern moose, arepopulated in northern areas of Dakota, Michigan, central Canada, and Minnesota. Whereas the third subspecies is Shiras moose, inhabited in the Rocky Mountains of the United States.

Based on their distinctive traits and geographical location, some further moose species are Siberian Moose, Yakut Moose, and European moose, collectively recognized as Eurasian moose. The geographical areas affect the inhabited moose there and cause variation in their characteristics, leading to the evolution of subspecies.

Size of Different types of Moose – Comparison

All the subspecies of moose vary in their average weight, height, size of antlers, and skin color. The gigantic subspecies are Alaskan Yukon moose, mostly found near rivers in Alaska.

Alaska Moose

Male Alaskan moose can weigh more than 1800 pounds, while females have an average weight of 1000 to 1100 pounds with more than 7 feet in height. They can grow antlers of over 1.8 m in length.

Western Moose

After Alaskan moose, the second-largest subspecies is western moose from the western regions of Canada and the United States. The weight of male western moose is about 1000 to 1500 pounds, female between 600 to 800 pounds, and height is between 6 to 7 feet only up to the shoulders. Their antlers are a little smaller than the antlers of Alaskan moose, about 1.6 or 1.7 meters.

Eastern Moose

Eastern moose, which weigh around 1400 pounds, is the third-largest subspecies of moose. A male eastern moose has a height of 5.5 to 6.5 feet and weighs 1300 to 1400 pounds, while the female eastern moose can weigh around 600 to 700 pounds with 5.6 feet height.

Siberian Moose

Aside from these species, the largest subspecies of the Eurasian species is the East Siberian moose. Siberian moose are smaller in height and weight as compared to Alaskan moose.

Yellowstone Moose

Even the smallest subspecies of moose weigh up to 1000 pounds and are at least 5 to 6 feet tall. These species are named Yellowstone moose, inhabited in North America, Russia, and China.

Moose Size Comparison with Others

Moose vs. Deer

The adult male moose are called bulls, while the adult female moose are cows. Both are heavier and bigger than all other species of deer. The whitetail deer, blacktail deer, or elk cannot compete with moose size and weight.

Such as, the whitetail deer only weighs between 100 to 300 pounds with 3 feet shoulder length that is much smaller than a moose, almost half or even less than that. Similarly, an elk is also foot smaller than a moose.

Moose Size Compared To Horse

When comparing the height of a horse and moose, we consider that the height of horses is measured from their hoofs to the withers that are the part between the upper back shoulders. The average height of a horse is almost five and a half inches.

However, just like the moose, horses also vary in their height. There is also the smallest and tallest size for a horse. Comparing the tallest horse and moose, they can be almost the same height, i.e., 7 feet. But due to their bulkiness, a moose will still appear bigger than a horse.

Moose Elephant Size Comparison

No doubt that a deer, elk, or horse are smaller than moose, but comparing moose with other animals, such as elephants, one of the heaviest animals living on the earth, can make a seven-foot-tall moose seem smaller.

Like moose, different species of elephants and male and female elephants vary in average weight. An elephant can be an 11 to 13 feet tall male or only an 8 feet tall female elephant. So a female elephant and a male moose may stand at almost the height.

Moose Compared to Human

Have you ever seen a moose from close? No wonder that 7 feet or even more than that tall and heavy moose with wide antlers will make you look tiny in front of it. The moose are measured by their shoulders; their antlers make them even taller.

Even the height recorded of the tallest man alive on earth cannot exceed the height of a fully grown Alaskan moose.

Wrapping Up – Moose Size Comparison

Moose are the largest and most gigantic species of deer. Comparing moose with animals such as horse and elk give us the result that they are larger than all those animals. Similarly, humans are also tiny in front of a moose. But a moose can not exceed the height of an elephant; that is itself a large and bulky animal.

Additional Common Questions

How do moose measure up to other animals in terms of size?

In terms of size, a full-grown Alaskan moose is truly a majestic sight, often standing taller than 7 feet. To truly grasp the size of these magnificent creatures, think about those towering NBA giants, like Yao Ming, who stands at a staggering 7 feet 6 inches – a moose is essentially the Yao Ming of the animal kingdom! To further contextualize, horses, which we often perceive as large animals, measure an average of about 5 feet 4 inches at the withers, or shoulder height. This height places an average male Alaskan moose around a foot to a foot and a half taller at the shoulders than a horse. So an up-close encounter with a moose might feel a lot like standing next to an absolutely massive horse, dwarfing those familiar four-legged companions!

Do we have any animal that can size up to a moose?

Interestingly, there are animals that match up to the size of a moose, or even surpass it. One great example is the bison. Bison tend to outsize moose in most physical terms. On the scale, moose can weigh in at an impressive 1,500lbs, while bison can tip the scale up to a massive 3,000lbs or even more. When it comes to height, the moose can carry its head high up to 6.9ft at the shoulder and grow to an impressive total length of 10ft. However, bison have a naturally raised hump, which helps them achieve a total height of 11ft. Despite their towering height, bison generally maintain a body length somewhat shorter than a moose, about 9 feet. So imagine yourself on a safari tour sitting in a truck and being approached by a herd of bison. Their hump would be above your field of view, making them look like a moving wall – an experience highlighting their towering stature and sheer mass!

What is the size of a moose when it is fully grown?

As full-grown adults, male moose (also known as bulls) reach awe-inspiring dimensions, while females (cows) are somewhat smaller. The average adult bull moose stands around 6 feet tall at the shoulder. Recalling our human equivalent, that’s like standing up to the chest of a person who is 6 feet tall! As for their weight, well-fed and healthy male moose can weigh up to a massive 1,400 pounds, that’s the equivalent of carrying around seven adult humans! However, unlike in males, female moose, although also large, don’t reach these extremes. Their lower size requirements make sense from an evolutionary perspective as smaller size allows them a higher rate of survival.

How does the size of a moose compare to a car?

When we compare a moose to a car, we can gauge their size in a familiar context. A moose can tip the scales upwards to 1,500 pounds, reach a height of almost 7 feet, and extend up to 10 feet from nose to tail. In contrast, your average family car, weighing around 3,500lbs, far outweighs a moose. The car’s height, standing at around 4.75ft, is shorter compared to the towering moose. However, in terms of length, a car stretches further up to around 16.3 feet. If you’ve ever seen those road signs warning against moose in certain regions, now you know why. A collision with these massive animals can cause substantial damage due to their considerable weight and height. Just think about how your car would fare in an unfortunate meeting with this gigantic animal that’s comparable in weight to a small car and can look straight into your car window!