This post reviews the bipods the best precision rifle shooters are using. This data is based on a survey of the top 50 shooters in the 2014 Precision Rifle Series (PRS). The PRS tracks how top competitors place in major rifle matches across the country. These are the major leagues of sniper-style competitions, with targets typically in the 300-1000 yard range. For more info on the Precision Rifle Series and who these guys are, or to view the data for other pieces of gear scroll to the bottom of this article.

Bipod

Although we’ve been surveying the top shooters in the PRS for a couple years, this is the first year we asked them what bipod they use. Here’s what they said:

Harris Bipod

Over 75% of the shooters were using a Harris Bipod, with the overwhelming majority of those being the Harris S-BRM 6-9” Notched Bipod (HBRMS). The official product name according to Harris is HBRMS. While that may seem cryptic, the diargram below breaks down what the letters mean and lets you see the features on the Harris S-BRM bipod compared to the standard Harris HBR model.

The Harris HBRMS is their shortest bipod with legs that extend 6 to 9 inches, and Harris refers to it as their “benchrest” model. PRS matches are clearly not shot from a bench, but many shots are taken from prone positions and the height range of this bipod is ideal for most prone scenarios.

The M in the model name indicates the bipod has notched legs. The notches provide a few preset height reference points to make it easier to adjust both legs to the same height. Virtually all of the top 50 shooters were using a bipod with these notched legs.

The S in the model name indicates the bipod can swivel, which allows you to tilt the rifle from side to side. This makes it easy to get the rifle perfectly level on uneven terrain without fiddling with the leg heights. Even a small amount of rifle cant can result in a miss at long-range, and this feature can help a shooter effectively manage that.

While most guys were running the 6-9 inch HBRMS model, there were a couple guys running the medium height Harris HBLMS model, which Harris advertises to have legs that extend 9 to 13 inches. In my measurements, it looks like the Harris HBLMS measures closer to 8 to 12 inches.

There was also one shooter in the top 50, Matt Gervais, who ran a custom Harris bipod he modified to extend from 7 to 12 inches. I have to admit, I was intrigued by the idea because it sounds like the ideal range. So I followed up with Matt and he graciously provided more detail with permission to share with fellow shooters. He found that when he used the 6-9” bipod, he never used the lowest setting, and when he used the 9-13” bipod, he never used the highest setting. Sounds familiar! As an auto mechanic by trade and tinkerer by heart, Matt’s curiosity drove him to sit down one day and take apart both bipods to compare them. After a little time, machining, and troubleshooting … viola! The ideal 7-12” Harris bipod was born. It was primarily derived from a modified 9-13” model, but there were a few donor parts taken from a Harris 6-9” bipod. Here’s a comparison of the custom Harris 7-12” bipod with a standard Harris 6-9” bipod. Note: Springs were removed from the 6-9″ bipod, and used on the 7-12″.

Virtually all of the shooters had added an after-market swivel lock to their Harris bipod (only applicable to the S series). These allow you to quickly adjust the amount of tension it takes to tilt the bipod side-to-side. The stock Harris swivel models have a fixed amount of tension that isn’t adjustable in the field, but these aftermarket levers and knobs allow you to reach up and torque down the swivel with one hand from behind the rifle. There are a few products out there that do this, such as the KMW Pod-Loc Kit, Alpha-Bravo Bipod Lock, and recently Harris introduced their own Harris lever. (Why not offer a model with the lever preinstalled?!) These handles are easy to install (watch video), and make it easier to operate the bipod swivel and ensure your rifle is cant-free before sending a round down range.

LaRue also makes an improved version of the Harris bipod. They integrated their popular, low-profile, quick-detach, picatinny mount. LaRue explains: “We have replaced the Harris OEM stud attachment base with a custom chassis … ruling-out the risk of the stud screw and grabber becoming loose. By doing so, we were able to lower the profile by roughly .25″. A large knob on the rear provides easy leverage when adjusting swivel tension.”

Note: The LaRue bipod in the photo has spikes installed. That is not part of the LaRue improved package. Those are JEC JPEGs Harris Bipod Spikes made by JEC Customs that I installed myself later. They help ensure you’re dug in and able to consistently load your bipod on any surface (sand, mud, stone, concrete, gravel, dining room table, car hood, etc.).

Atlas Bipod

The second most popular bipod was the Accu-Shot Atlas Bipod. 11 of shooters who placed in the top 50 were running an Atlas bipod.

While most are familiar with a standard bipod like the Harris, the Atlas bipod is very different. The popular standard height PSR Atlas Bipod includes a lot of unique features that aren’t available on other bipods. Here’s a few of the notable features:

• Bipod can be loaded with legs straight down (90°) or 45° forward. This provides a height adjustment from 4.75-9”, which is huge compared to similar bipods.
• Provides 15° of pan and 15° of tilt
• Legs can be stowed forwards or backwards
• Can be mounted directly to a picatinny rail
• Notched legs (similar to Harris)

Since the Atlas bipod only introduced in 2010, you might not expect it to have the accessories that the community has developed around the well-established Harris bipod … like the LaRue quick detach mount, or the variety of aftermarket feet and spikes. But, B&T Industries, makers of the Atlas, seems to have thought this through as well, and they offer a wide selection. It includes adapters to connect the Atlas bipod to just about any rifle, and accessories to adapt it to any terrain or scenario. Here’s just a few of the accessories offered for the Atlas:

The quick-change feet and leg extensions can be “easily installed with the press of a stainless steel plunger,” according to the manufacturer. Having personally installed spikes on a Harris bipod … I can say almost anything would be easier. Having the ability to easily extend the legs by 3 inches seems to allow you to use one bipod for many scenarios, especially with the huge range of height adjustability the Atlas bipod already offers.

One of the attractive features of the Atlas bipod is the option for multiple leg positions (45 and 90 degrees), but could be a downside to that flexibility. The added adjustability can potentially make the bipod slower to deploy and get in position. At least during competitions, seconds count, and it’d be near impossible to top the quick and simple Harris deployment.

There are certainly other bipods out there, like the Versa-Pod bipod, the Long-Range Accuracy bipod, and the new Accu-Tac bipod … but none of those were represented among these top precision riflemen. It was a short list, with just two brands … but some of the most solid gear you can find.

Meet The Pros

You know NASCAR? Yes, I’m talking about the racing-cars-in-a-circle NASCAR. Before NASCAR, there were just a bunch of unaffiliated, regional car races. NASCAR brought structure by unifying those races, and created the idea of a season … and an overall champion. NASCAR identified the top races across the country (that were similar in nature), then combined results and ranked competitors. The Precision Rifle Series (PRS) is like NASCAR, but for rifle matches.

The PRS is a championship style point series race based on the best precision rifle matches nationwide. PRS matches are recognized as the major league of sniper-style rifle matches. At the end of each year, the scores from around 15 different national matches are evaluated and the top shooters are invited to compete head to head in the PRS Season Championship Match. We surveyed the shooters who qualified for the finale, asking all kinds of questions about the equipment they ran that season. This is a great set of data, because 50+ shooters is a significant sample size, and this particular group are also considered experts among experts. It includes guys like George Gardner (President/Senior Rifle Builder of GA Precision), Francis Kuehl, Wade Stuteville, the GAP Team, the Surgeon Rifles Team, shooters from the US Army Marksmenship Unit, and many other world-class shooters. Thanks to Rich Emmons for allowing me to share this info. To find out more about the PRS, check out What Is The Precision Rifle Series?

Other “What The Pros Use” Articles

This post was one of a series of posts that look at the equipment the top PRS shooters use. Check out these other posts:

• Calibers & Cartridges
• Tactical Scopes
• Scope Mount
• Gunsmiths
• Rifle Actions
• Rifle Barrels
• Custom Rifle Stocks
• Reloading Components (Bullets, Powders & Brass)
• Muzzle Brake & Suppressor
• Shooting Bags
• Bipod
• Rifle Sling

At long last, I’m excited to provide my review for the new Bridger 65-liter backpack from Mystery Ranch!

The Mystery Ranch Bridger is a highly anticipated pack series and I was thrilled to finally get my hands on one to test. For several years the Mystery Ranch Terraframe 65L has been my go-to backpack. So I was excited to see what innovations were included in the Bridger.

Right off the bat I could tell that the Bridger pack was something unique. The first thing my eye caught is the re-designed yoke / chest strap system. Borrowing from a running vest style pack, the Bridger has two chest straps that connect across much wider mesh straps than I typically see on a backpack.

Comfort is key

The result is an ultra-comfortable carry. The redesigned yoke system does an amazing job of spreading out the weight and the contact points that often lead to sore shoulders and hotspots around the arm pits.

Bridger compared to Osprey Atmos or Gregory Baltoro

Over the last year I have been able to test other popular packs like the Osprey Atmos and Gregory Baltoro. It’s helpful to have an understand of many of the packs on the market to be able to talk about some of the ways the Mystery Ranch Bridger 65L stands out from the competition.

Mystery Ranch claims the Bridger pack is the “Cadillac of backpacks”

According to Mystery Ranch – the Bridger 65 is the “Cadillac of backpacks.” This pack is loaded with internal and external pockets for maximum gear packing. The large pocket opens fully for easy accessibility to the gear you need more immediately, like a raincoat, additional snack, first aid kit, or that extra flask. It is a weight-conscious and durable pack that easily supports your overnight or multi-day mission.

The Bridger 65 is built around the endurance yoke. This yoke is breathable, highly ventilated, with pocketed shoulder pads and pocketed waist belt for quick access to you water bottle, snacks (all the snacks!), or sunglasses. There is dual access to the main bag, including two full-length zippers on the front of the bag, and a drawstring shroud for easy accessibility to the main part of the bag without having to fully unpack.

The pack’s removable lid converts to a hip sack for shorter adventures when you may want to leave the main pack at basecamp. The Bridger 65 is hydration-reservoir compatible for additional water when you need it. There are two large, stretch woven back pockets with inner elastic top dump pockets. The speed zip sleeping bag compartment has a removable divider and a double layer bottom for improved durability.

Field testing the Bridger backpack in Peru and South Dakota

I had an opportunity to run some miles on this backpack, as well as use the Bridger 55L, on a previous backpacking trip across the Badlands and Black Hills of South Dakota. The Centennial Trail in South Dakota was a great place to test the new Bridger line from Mystery Ranch. My first impression? I love it! Let’s get into the details:

How to choose a backpack?

Finding the right backpack is an essential cornerstone of your backpacking gear. The main categories to keep in mind when choosing a backpack are comfort, stability, breathability, torso fit, weight, accessibility to gear, and durability.

What are the best backpacks for hiking 2022?

Three backpacks come to mind when we talk about the best multi-day backpacks, the Osprey Atmos, the Gregory Baltoro and the Mystery Ranch Bridger. Comfort in backpacks is key to having a good experience. That is why the Mystery Ranch Bridger 65L is so different when compared to the Osprey Atmos 65L or Gregory Baltoro 65L. The yolk on the Bridger backpack is unique.

Is the Bridger backpack comfortable?

Yes! The Bridger 65 is very comfortable. Its comfort is one thing that helps it stand apart and what makes it so special. The thoughtful design of the pack, how you can adjust it to fit you perfectly, as well as the breathability of the yoke, all work to make this a pack you can comfortably wear for hours. The double strapped yoke (which I initially was skeptical of) really is very comfortable and I think is a beautiful revolution in backpacking design.

Is the Bridger breathable compared to Osprey Atmos or Gregory Baltoro?

Mystery Ranch has done a really nice job of creating an airflow chamber right through the middle of the yoke to allow hot air to escape through the back. The endurance yokes are breathable and highly ventilated with lots of air holes allowing heat and air to move easily through. The frame and the yoke work together to avoid back-to-pack contact thereby maximizing air flow. While I have hiked with backpacks that were a little bit more breathable, I have zero complaints with the breathability of this system.

How do you adjust the torso fit for the Mystery Ranch Bridger 65L?

When you purchase a backpack, no matter the brand or the size, it is important to be able to fit it to your body easily. Mystery Ranch has a smart and unique fitting system. You can achieve a personalized fit by removing the sheath stored inside, and then you break the Velcro bond by prying it with the sheath. Once the Velcro is separated, it is easy to either lift or lower the frame to get it fitted for your torso length.

How much does the Mystery Ranch Bridger 65L weigh?

The Bridger 65L is 5.5 pounds, which is a more than some of the other backpacks in this category. What you trade in weight, however, you gain in comfort, stability and durability.

How accessible is gear in the Bridger 65L backpack?

The placement of pockets and the placement of the zippers make ease of access a breeze. This is another feature that really makes Mystery Ranch packs stand apart from the crowd. Zippers and pockets create multiple entry points to the gear you need on the fly. When I hike, I like to separate the items that are important. Items like toilet paper, cat hole digging devices, and other items that I may want to keep out of the main chamber away from my food, clothes, and toiletries.

I love the ability to fully flay open my backpack. The Bridger 65L makes it easy for me to be able to spread open the bag and grab different lenses or different camera pieces. I also like the way the zipper works for the sleeping bag compartment. The Bridger 65L has a folding buckle that also contains a completely straight zipper all the way across. When you open the zipper, the compartment really opens up and it’s a very accessible, large space and it is easy to fit your sleeping bag in.

The Bridger pack has multiple compression straps to close it up and cinch it. I really like the side pockets on the Bridger packs, as these are great for water bottles trekking poles tripods.

Are Mystery Ranch packs durable?

If you are paying a premium for your backpack, you want it to last. One of the hallmarks of Mystery Ranch is that they make incredibly strong, beefy backpacks. Mystery Ranch makes packs for the military, firefighters, and people jumping out of planes. You know with the design of their backpacks rooted in this background, Mystery Ranch packs are going to last.

What is the load capacity of the Bridger backpack?

The Bridger pack can carry loads up to 55 pounds. It’s sweet spot is for carrying between 30 and 50 pounds. I have easily carried over 40 pounds and the load was surprisingly comfortable. Exceeding 50 pounds is very heavy for a backpacking trip, and if you wish to do so, that’s where other packs like the Terraframe come in.

Are the Bridger backpacks waterproof?

No. The Bridger pack is not waterproof. However, it will be able to withstand a fair bit of rain and moisture before any packed gear gets wet. The pack is made of heavy-duty nylon and treated with DWR for a water repellent finish. I’d be comfortable using this pack without a cover in intermittent rain. But if enduring consistent rain or wet conditions, use a pack cover or use dry bags inside the pack to protect your gear.

What does the Mystery Ranch Bridger 65L cost?

The Bridger 65L retailed for $349 at the time of the review. I think that’s good value for what you get. I recognize that it is a little bit on the higher end of the price spectrum when compared with the Osprey Atmos 65L and Gregory Baltoro 65L, both which currently retail for about $270 USD. But for the difference in price you get more comfort and superior stability. This pack is for both beginner and expert hikers, as both will benefit from Mystery Ranch’s innovative double sternum straps. This design has been seen before in running packs and is a game changer for backpacking as it changes how you carry the heavier loads (more stability).

Are the Bridger backpacks worth it?

The Bridger 65L will appeal to a wide audience. It is meant for the beginner backpacker who is just getting started. It is also a solid choice for the seasoned hiker who guides for a living and wants a pack to live out of that is functional and comfortable. I think that I may have found my ‘forever’ backpack. The Bridger 65 L pack is for sure my favorite pack that I have used to date! I plan to keep testing it and will do follow up posts to let you know.

Check out the NEW Bridger on the Mystery Ranch website

If you want to compare with other similar-size trekking bags I’ve reviewed, check out these other backpack reviews.

You’ve put in unsuccessfully for years, trying to draw a tag for your dream hunt. When you finally get that coveted tag in hand, make sure your hunt gets off to a smooth start. You’ve got to get there first. Learn all you need to know about flying with archery equipment well in advance of your flight.

If you do your homework and you’re proactive about complying with regulations, you shouldn’t have any trouble flying with archery gear. Most airlines permit you to fly with a bow and arrows, but it’s a good idea to call your airline for specific information and to learn if there are any size restrictions on your bow case.

According to Transportation Security Administration guidelines, your bow, arrows and hunting knives must be checked; they can’t be part of your carry-on baggage. There are no specific regulations requiring releases to be checked, but be aware that most airport security officials are unfamiliar with archery equipment and may mistake your release for a firearm part, given that it has a trigger, or even brass knuckles, depending on the release style. It’s best to keep it in checked baggage.

Because they don’t encounter archery equipment every day, some security agents may not know the rules as well as you do. Expect delays and have your facts in order to help the process go smoothly. Print out a copy of TSA regulations on archery equipment and carry it with you for added insurance.

Packing your bow properly not only helps things go smoothly at the airport, but it also protects your equipment. TSA regulations don’t require your bow to be in a hard-sided case, but using one is an excellent idea because baggage is often handled roughly. The only reason you might consider using a soft case is if your final destination involves flying in a bush plane where weight is a factor.

Your case must be locked. Most bowhunters buy a TSA-approved lock. TSA agents have universal keys that can open these locks. Your case will almost certainly be opened and inspected, and if you don’t have a TSA lock and aren’t there to open the case yourself, the lock could be cut. If you don’t want agents to access your case in your absence, ask if an agent can examine the case right at the ticket counter while you supervise, or wait to go through security until you’re sure your case has been inspected. Keep your key on your person at all times. Once inspected, your case should move through baggage without a hitch.

Pack your bow case to protect your gear. Use tie-down straps to secure your bow within the case. Stuff hunting clothes or other soft material around your bow, particularly around delicate sights. You may even consider wrapping your sights with foam or bubble wrap. Arrows should be stored securely in the case’s foam slits or in a separate arrow tube stored within the case. Broadheads should be removed from arrows and stored in a hard container inside the bow case. Also, package your hunting knife in a sheath or hard container and store it inside the case.

On the day of your flight, arrive at the airport well before your departure time in case you run into hassles. Most airlines charge fees for checked bags (and even more for oversized bags, which may apply to your bow case). One alternative is to ship your bow prior to your flight. You won’t have to deal with airport hassles, but you probably won’t save much money, either, and you still run the risk that your bow doesn’t make it to your destination. Plus, you’ll have to forgo a few days of shooting practice.

When you reach your final destination, with any luck, your bow case will pop up into the baggage claim area as expected, but don’t be alarmed if you don’t see it right away. Sometimes large bags, or those that may be considered weapons, have to be picked up at the baggage claim office with a photo ID.

Flying internationally with a bow usually isn’t a problem, but some countries may restrict it, so check in advance. It’s a good idea to fill out Form 4457, Certificate of Registration for Personal Effects Taken Abroad, ahead of time. That proves you owned the bow while in the United States, shielding you from paying tariffs upon your return. Carry your hunting license or archery organization membership card as well. Agents in other countries may not understand hunting and could think you are using your bow as a weapon. Having this paperwork on you makes you look more legitimate.

Here are some resources for further information:

TSA Provides Travel Tips for Hunting Season

https://www.tsa.gov/news/press/releases/2018/09/12/tsa-provides-travel-tips-hunting-season#:~:text=An%20assembled%20bow%20and%2For,prohibited%20in%20carry%2Don%20luggage.

TSA Travel Tips Tuesday: TSA Recognized Locks

https://www.tsa.gov/blog/2014/02/18/tsa-travel-tips-tuesday-tsa-recognized-locks

Form 4457 – Certificate of Registration for Personal Effects Taken Abroad

https://www.cbp.gov/document/forms/form-4457-certificate-registration-personal-effects-taken-abroad

How to Travel with Archery Equipment

https://www.completeguidetoarchery.com/how-to-travel-with-archery-equipment/

Here’s a guide for flying internationally with archery equipment and some regulations by country:

http://www.airline-baggage-fees.com/sports/archery-equipment-bow-and-arrow/

THE WOUNDS from his fight with a baboon weren’t fully healed when Bismark charged the Cape buffalo.

We had spent the day trying to split two satellite bulls from the herd. I had been hired to photograph a plains- and dangerous-game safari in South Africa’s northernmost province of Limpopo, and I was shooting through my telephoto lens as one of the bulls broke from cover and charged.

The hunter shot the buff at 40 yards, then again. Bismark, a wire-haired Jack Russell, stood at heel beside his handler, professional hunter Divan Human. I don’t know how many shots were fired—both by the hunter and the PH—as the buffalo thundered to 15 yards, but it wasn’t dying. That’s when Bismark broke heel and tried to ride it.

As a lifelong hunter, I’ve seen bayed bears and treed mountain lions. As a nuisance wildlife professional, I’ve pulled badgers out of holes and I’ve been face to face with rattlesnakes under houses. Nothing compares to that Cape buffalo charge. They’re called “black death” in South Africa, and I get that now. But the heart of a terrier is unmatched, and Bismark was ready to die for us.

Bismark is unshakable, but he’s no one-hit wonder. I saw a dozen blood-tracking dogs while on safari this spring; every one was a Jack Russell. The breed was first developed in Britain for fox hunting, and its prevalence in South Africa today is a byproduct of British colonialism. Although I didn’t see any on my trip, Jagd terriers (“jagd” is German for “hunt”) are also popular among South African outfitters.

The cool thing about terriers is they can do a little bit of everything. I’ve owned Jagds for nearly a decade and they’re integral to my nuisance wildlife business in the Southwest. Although it’s no longer commonplace in the U.S., terriers were originally bred for this work. They excel at finding dead animals, locating live ones, and catching critters. Because of all that tenacity packed into a small body, they also have a tendency to get hurt on the job. (As the Jack Russell Terrier Club of South Africa puts it, the “real Jack Russell terrier does not sit on the sidelines of life.”) While PHs here release their dogs on most game tracks, they don’t allow them to trail warthogs, which are notorious for killing dogs.

When Bismark was younger, one of Human’s clients shot a big Nile crocodile and Bismark broke at the shot. That’s scary because you’re relying on a client to not shoot your dog, but you also don’t want the animal alive enough to kill your dog. Fortunately it was a good hit, but that’s just how it goes with terriers sometimes: You can’t proof a dog until you put him in situations like that. I saw lots of animals harvested in the three weeks I was there, and only now and then would a dog slip up and break at heel.

A standard track looked like this: As soon as the shot went off and the PH released his dog, the trackers would run in and try to keep up. Because we were hunting in such thick cover—50-yard shots were far in some cases—you couldn’t see the dog 100 yards away, let alone the kudu that was just shot. It was helpful to hear barking so you could locate him.

After a shot the dog was off to the races, and the human tracker was not far behind. And the trackers were incredible. I was skeptical at first. I’ve heard stories of how great they are, but I couldn’t help thinking: I’ve hunted my whole life. How good can these guys really be? What you don’t realize is those trackers hunt year-round except for the rainy season and they track lots of animals every day.

Better yet, the dogs don’t take away from the tracker’s job because often the tracker’s job isn’t just finding downed game—it’s finding live game. South Africans only use their blood dogs for locating animals that have been hit well.

Fortunately, the Cape buffalo was well hit—several times. In the end, the bull slid to a stop just yards from our feet, with Bismark barking on its back.

Read more OL+ stories.

Have you ever landed a fish you’ve never caught before then sat there staring at in the net wondering how you’re supposed to lift it up for the picture, or even how to release it?

WHY IS THERE A PROPER WAY TO HOLD FISH?

Holding a fish properly isn’t just for the benefit of the fish, it also keeps the angler safe. All fish, toothless or not, have defence mechanisms built-in. Whether its a bass with an effectively sharp dorsal fin, or walleye, pike, and muskie with their teeth, all fish can pose a threat to you as the angler. But- with proper holds there is little to no concern in handling them for a photo, releasing them, or even putting them into the live well if you’re planning on keeping them.

Times have changed, and our education towards fishing as our resource has also changed. With the growing recognition of CPR (Catch, Photo, and Release) lodge owners are embracing it. Some lodges won’t even post photos of fish being held improperly, so your trophy fish may not be shared or celebrated as it should be!

The reason lodges and fishing pages don’t post improper holds in photos is that in order for CPR to be successful, fish handling has to be done properly.

Have no fear!

Learning how to hold fish is certainly better done with hands-on practice. But this article will give you the bare-bones, easy to remember approach on handling each fish species that dwell in Sunset Country’s waters! To read more about why, scroll to the bottom of the article!

UNHOOKING FISH

Once you have the fish in the net, take a breath! Having the fish in the net keeps it wet, lively and breathing, giving you time to organize yourself. Pliers are optional and certainly encouraged.

By using pliers you can keep your bare hands free of the hooks and any hazards on the fish, ie, prickly spines. Once you’ve successfully unhooked the fish, take the lure out of the net, taking the time to secure it back onto the rod will keep the workspace even safer. So long as the fishes head is underwater in the net, you can remove rushing from the picture, that’s how mistakes are made.

Once you have hooks clear of the net and away from where you’ll be posing, get the camera out before you even think about lifting the fish out of the water. This way you’re all set for a couple of photos, and a seamless release- which you can capture on camera too!

HOW TO HOLD DIFFERENT SPECIES

Not all fish were created equally which means you’ll hold some of them differently than others. Don’t let this discourage you, all holds are simple and effective.

BASS

Both bass species are one of the few you won’t get much flack for holding vertically. They are also one of the easiest to hold because they can be “lipped,” or held directly from the mouth.

Like all larger fish of each species though, some extra care is required for heavier ones and the fish certainly won’t complain about having some extra help staying healthy.

Here are a couple of hold examples for bass:

This vertical hold is perfectly safe for this bass. They aren’t cranking its jaw and forcing the head to hold the body on an angle, it’s just straight up and down. This hold is also acceptable for crappie, largemouth bass, perch and other small panfish like sunfish.

The horizontal hold below is an excellent example of how to support a larger bass, crappie, or even perch. It also adds a different angle and makes it easier to take horizontal photos, instead of only verticals!

WALLEYE

Similar to bass, you can hold smaller walleye vertically without causing any harm, but you certainly do NOT want to “lip” them as they have some impressive teeth.

Below, Jeff Gustafson explains how the gill plate hold on walleye whether horizontally or vertically helps with catch and release as well as making your photographs look better!

NORTHERN PIKE AND MUSKIE

Perhaps the most intimidating of our fish species in Sunset Country is the Esox family of northern pike and muskie. It’s important to understand how to handle pike because they are especially common in these waters and odds are you’ll be unhooking a lot of them.

All fish deserve our respect, but perhaps the species requiring the most special care is the muskie. These fish grow LARGE. Which means they are especially subject to weight-bearing in the wrong places if held improperly. They may be the apex predator in the water, but when they are removed from their environment the saying “the bigger they are the harder they fall” is very much relevant.

The gill hold is very important to understand for holding pike and muskie. Not only will it protect the fish, but it’ll also protect you and your hands. If done properly, no gloves are necessary.

Here are the steps to make it simple:

1. Following the gill line to the bottom of the pike or muskies head, slide your index finger inside and underneath the jaw of the fish (much like you watched in the walleye video above)

2. Once you know you’re tight to the bottom of the fishes mouth and away from the gills, allow the rest of your fingers to slide in as well next to your index finger

3. Keeping your thumb outside of the mouth in the notch of the bottom jaw, you’ll be able to clamp down onto your index and other fingers inside the mouth of the fish.

4. Once their head is securely in your hands, lift them out of the net and support them horizontally by securing your other hand under their belly like the photos above.

LAKE TROUT/BROOK TROUT

Depending on the trout’s size and species, gill hold may or may not be acceptable. Large lake trout can be held by the gills with their weight supported, but a hold that will give you a more secure hold on their powerful tail may be mistaken for playing air guitar.

This “guitar hold” works for brook trout as well. Using your dominant hand (seems to work best for most) wrap your hand around their tail, with your other hand support the space between their pectoral (front) fins. Tucking your hands underneath will assure your fish looks great, but will also stop you from accidentally strangling the fish. The photo above shows both options for the non-dominant hand, the angler on the left is choosing to wrap her hands around, but keeping control of them not to choke or injure the fish. The angler on the right is tucking her hands below the fish, simply supporting the weight.

DON’T FEEL CONFIDENT YET?

Like with all things learning, practice really does make perfect. You can’t be expected to learn these perfectly the first time. The holds covered above are all focused on what will give you the most confidence, but you may find other proper ways to handle fish.

If you’d like to learn more about these holds, you could consider hiring an independent fishing guide for the day. Be clear with your intent to learn more, guides will be more than willing to help educate you on fish holds, tactics, techniques and even how to land them easier!

Here’s more on why it’s important to learn: Let’s say a large fish is held vertically, that large fish has until this point lived its life suspended horizontally almost weightlessly in water. Being hoisted by its jaw or gills (which acts as lungs for the fish) puts a tremendous amount of pressure not only on those areas, but it’s internal organs that have never felt gravity quite like this before. Larger fish held vertically poses a risk to their organs tearing from place and ultimately causing a delayed death after release.

PLAN YOUR TRIP

You’ve mastered landing countless fish, now you want to go for some true trophies! In Sunset Country you can go for walleye, muskie, northern pike, smallmouth and largemouth bass, perch, crappie, lake trout and brook trout.

If you don’t know where to begin, you can search by the species listed above, or check our Accommodation Finder and use filters such as drive-in, fully guided fishing, wheelchair accessible, fly-in outposts, and more!

You can also order our FREE Travel Guide including a pull-out map of the region and our lodges here. Feel free to call us at the Sunset Country office 1-800-665-7567 as well.

Crossing an alligator’s path in your own yard is, to put it mildly, not a pleasant experience. If it has already happened to you, then you know what I’m talking about. It’s a potentially dangerous situation, especially when it comes unexpectedly.

According to a study from Duke University (source) large predators, like alligators, are moving into unexpected areas that were former hunting grounds until humans have been taken over. Therefore, protecting your home from those animals is more current than ever.

So, how can you keep alligators away? Here’s a quick answer:

The first step to keep alligators out of your yard and pool is to eliminate all the things that might attract them. As a second step, put up a sturdy fence. That will effectively keep alligators off your property. Installing a pool enclosure is also a good idea, however, beware of natural alligator repellents.

Read on for the details.

If you live in a climate where meeting an alligator (or a crocodile) is a real concern (like South Carolina, Florida, or Louisiana), it’s a reasonable decision to make the necessary precautions to keep them away from your house. In this article, I’ll show you the most effective ways you can keep alligators out of your house, pool, and yard, so it is one less thing you have to worry about.

How fast can alligators run on land? Can you outrun them? Find the answer in this article.

1. Eliminate Things that Attract Alligators

Alligators usually visit your yard for a reason: they look for food, water, and sometimes shelter. So the first thing you want to do is make your yard unattractive for them. For this reason, eliminate all kinds of food (including garbage) that alligators might have access to from your yard. Never store leftovers in the open air and don’t forget to clean up after barbecuing.

The next step is to eliminate clutter: if your yard is clean and tidy there’s less chance that an alligator (or snakes) will use it as a temporary shelter.

Let’s move on to water. Alligators love water, so pools are definitely attractive factors for them. Of course, preventing alligators from having access to your swimming pool is much harder to accomplish than eliminating clutter or garbage from the yard.

Using a standard pool cover will keep smaller animals out of your pool but it’s often useless against larger critters, like alligators (not to mention that if the pool is often used, it can be a tedious job to cover it every evening). You can find both solid and mesh safety pool covers on the market but they’re usually for winterizing purposes and not suitable for daily use.

A built-in automatic pool cover can provide real protection but it’s pretty expensive and sometimes it’s not easy to add it to an existing pool. However, if you’re just planning to build a pool, I definitely suggest you consider this option. All-Safe sells pretty reliable and durable automatic pool covers that are very comfortable to use.

If installing an automatic pool cover is not an option for you, just continue reading: there are other methods to keep alligators away from your pool and I’ll show you all of them.

2. Put Up a Sturdy Fence

Will a fence keep alligators out of your yard? Fencing, when done properly, is definitely one of the best ways to keep alligators off your property. However, if you’re about to install physical barriers, like a fence, it’s essential to do it the right way so that alligators can’t get through it.

First of all, you have to bury the fence at least 1.5-2 feet into the ground to prevent alligators from digging under it. You can improve security by installing concrete footers, although it’s not an absolute necessity. Next, you want to make sure they can’t climb over the fence. You may wonder, “Can alligators climb fences?” Just have a look at this video:

Alligators can climb chain link fences. Period. Some of them can climb a 5 feet high chain link fence without any major difficulty (however it’s not typical).

So how can you make a chain link fence alligator-proof? Height is important but as you can see, in itself, it doesn’t always stop alligators. The solution is to install a fence that is at least 5 feet high and the top of it is tilted outwards (at a 45-degree angle). It’s also called an overhanging fence. If some adventurous gators try to climb it and reach the top of the fence, they won’t be able to climb over it thanks to the angled part. You can reinforce the top of the fence with barbed wires.

Instead of a chain link fence, you can put up a wooden or aluminum (or concrete) fence to keep alligators away from your yard. They can’t climb an aluminum or a wooden fence with a smooth surface if it’s high enough because there’s nothing they can use to support their weight while climbing it.

If separating your pool is all you need and want the least obtrusive method, then consider installing a fence made of thick and durable safety glass. It will prevent gators from accessing your pool while nothing will block your view. Just keep in mind that glass fences require more maintenance (cleaning) than regular ones.

I highly suggest that you consider some kind of fencing if there’s a pond, lake, or canal close to your backyard. Those are the habitats where alligators spend most of their time and if you live close, it’s much more likely that you’ll cross each other’s path.

Electric Fences

Electric fences are another solution: they can deter and keep alligators off your property effectively. One of their major advantages over chain link, wooden, and aluminum fences is the faster and easier installation. Also, they’re much less obtrusive than standard fences. The disadvantage is obvious: if someone or your pet touches the fence, it won’t be a pleasant experience.

Usually, a single-strand electric fence can provide sufficient protection against gators (but it’s not necessarily effective against other predators). The strand should run just a few inches above the ground so that alligators can’t pass under without touching it.

Electric fences are not difficult to set up and their operation is usually inexpensive. The vast majority of energizers (the unit you should connect the wires to) are high-voltage, low-amperage, and low-impedance. This means that the current will flow through the wires in pulses and due to the low amperage it won’t cause any permanent harm to those animals and humans who encounter the fence.

Modern electric fences with an approved energizer are pretty safe to use: despite being rather popular items, electric fences account for less than one serious injury per year worldwide (source). However, don’t forget that we’re talking about electricity. Keep toddlers and children away from electric fences and make sure you place warning signs on the fence.

Before building any kind of physical barrier around your property, don’t forget to check if you need a building permit for it.

3. Install a Pool Enclosure

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Installing a pool enclosure (also called a pool cage) is an effective way to keep alligators off your pool. While being one of the most expensive solutions, it has many advantages besides securing your pool from gators: it provides a certain degree of protection against harmful UV rays, helps you to keep the pool cleaner by keeping bugs and debris out, and extends your swim time by allowing you to use the pool independently from the weather.

On the other hand, a pool cage reduces the green areas and needs regular maintenance (like removing mildew from the enclosure). Also, a fence around your yard may give you a better experience as it gives you a greater sense of freedom and lets you enjoy your whole yard.

As always, make sure you check your local building code if you want a pool enclosure in your yard.

If you want to improve water quality and take pool safety to the next level, have a look at our article about the best alternatives to chlorine to avoid unpleasant odors, dangerous byproducts, skin and eye irritation, and other adverse effects.

4. Natural Alligator Repellents – Do They Work?

You won’t find any alligator repellent in the stores for a very simple reason: none are registered. However, you may have heard of different homemade repellents. One of the most popular methods is mixing humane urine with ammonia and spraying the mixture on the areas where alligators can enter your yard (practically around your property). The theory behind this method is that the smell of the mixture resembles the scent of predators so it may deter alligators.

There are two major disadvantages of using the combination of urine and ammonia as an alligator repellent. First, it smells terrible not only for alligators but for humans (and pets) too. Also, keep in mind that ammonia is a hazardous substance that can cause severe injuries in high concentrations.

Second, it’s not a reliable method: in certain cases, it may work but there’s no guarantee it will deter alligators. That’s why I don’t recommend using it, however, if you don’t mind the smell and don’t have kids and pets you can try it as a complementary method.

5. Alligator Traps

If you want to get rid of alligators, you may wonder if setting up a trap is a reasonable solution. First, it’s useful to know that if you want to use traps to catch alligators, you must have a permit because without it setting up an alligator trap is considered to be illegal. On the other hand, trapping alligators is not without danger: it does require expertise, experience, and proper equipment.

If there’s an alligator in your property or if you’re concerned about safety because gators appear more and more frequently in your neighborhood, call a professional. The state of Florida, for instance, has a program called SNAP (Statewide Nuisance Alligator Program) that was created to help you out when in trouble with alligators. You just have to call them, and they will dispatch one of their nuisance alligator trappers.

Putting It All Together

As you can see, when it comes to keeping alligators out of your yard and pool, there are only a few reliable methods that really improve safety. If keeping gators off your property is a top priority for you, then you can’t avoid installing some kind of sturdy physical barrier around your yard or pool.

Besides fencing, you always want to make sure there are no alligator attractants (like garbage, food, shelter) on your property. Water is essential for gators, so they love to visit homes with a pool. One of the best ways to prevent them from taking a bath in your pool is using an automatic pool cover. If it’s not feasible, you can install a pool enclosure (aka pool cage) or a fence around the pool area.

Every home is different, and sometimes you need personalized guidance. When in doubt, consult with a professional to find the best combination of the available solutions.

Photo: Flickr(Roger W)