I’m always amused when an angler comments, “You caught that bass on a nightcrawler?” The guy probably has used imitations for years but doubts the appeal of the real thing. More cartons of worms than any other livebait likely are sold to novices and occasional anglers. So I often wonder where along the line experienced anglers forgot how great catching bass with nightcrawlers can be.

Virtually all fish species relish live worms. That’s reasonable since worms are high in protein; easy to swallow; lack sharp spines, bones, or claws; and are easily caught. Today, nightcrawlers are the most overlooked bait by serious anglers and trophy-bass hunters.

Fishing Crawlers

Rigging: When I’m fishing for big bass, I generally hook nightcrawlers once right through the head end. They also can be hooked through the tip of the tail, allowing a natural crawling motion. You can watch your line inch away along the bottom when crawlers are rigged this way. The only drawback to tail hooking is that the worm tends to break off on the cast, sometimes even breaking off as they try to escape.

Crawlers are best fished slowly with a short stitching motion, retrieving 3 to 12 inches per stitch, or using short slow drags with pauses of several seconds in between. A cast of about 30 feet may take several minutes to retrieve, so it’s far from a search technique. If you’re fishing an area known to hold fish, let the worm make any and all movements on its own.

Recently, I’ve “discovered” an unusual rigging tactic for tricking giant bass. Actually, the technique I now call the Wad-O-Crawlers was described by a noted big-bass expert in Bart Crabb’s book, Quest for the World Record Bass. I was amazed to read that this angler used up to a dozen crawlers at a time. Sounded unnatural and basically ridiculous. I told a fishing buddy about it and we had a good laugh.

Two years ago, however, I spotted the shadow of what looked like a big catfish, and I flipped out the live crawfish I had rigged. No reaction. I hooked up four or five sickly crawlers and cast to the fish. The line jumped and I landed a 4 1/2-pound bass.

I still didn’t embrace the Wad-O-Crawlers technique until just over a year ago when I rigged with a gob to target big channel cats at San Pablo Dam. Casting to an 18-foot drop, I was soon bitten and battling a big one, but the battle didn’t quite feel like a big kitty—short hard runs, quick turns, slugs. When it ran for the surface and leapt clear, the deal was sealed—a giant largemouth of 13 pounds.

Today I often hook three or four large crawlers into a wad. I use a fluorocarbon leader and braided line, since the leader keeps the lively worms from tying the supple braid in knots. Since this is a bulky bait, don’t pack the worms into the gap of the hook. Instead, skewer each worm once through the head end, leaving the rest to squirm. Fresh worms sometimes tie themselves in knots. Untangle them for best action and a surer hookset.

In the California reservoirs I fish, I generally fish crawler wads with no weight, or sometimes a small split shot to hold the leader on the bottom. If you must add more weight for fishing deep water, in wind or current or when drifting, use a light Carolina rig. I use a 1/8- to 1/4-ounce slipsinker with a small shot a foot or so above the hook to keep the weight from sliding down to the bait.

I prefer Gamakatsu Octopus hooks for crawler fishing, matching hook size to my gear. I usually use #6 or #4 on my microlight gear, upsizing to a #2 or #1 on medium-power spinning tackle.

Continued – click on page link below.

Location: Crawlers can be fished anywhere, but they tend to draw more attention and snag less often on bottoms with sparse cover. Crawlers aren’t a good search bait because they’re fragile and also not nearly as effective when fished fast. They’re best in areas that you already know hold good numbers of bass, or a giant. They’re effective at the mouth of feeder creeks, especially after a rain, when fish move into the area, expecting a fresh food supply.

Timing: In California reservoirs, a squirming worm will produce bass every month of the year. They work best in spring, however, when big bass are actively feeding in shallow water. Crawlers also shine during the Postspawn Period when bass linger in the shallows but become reluctant to bite typical reaction baits. In our lakes, we typically observe giant submarines lazily cruising shallow flats but refusing to strike lures.

Whenever bites are extremely hard to come by, break out the crawlers. I’ve often sighted bass that wouldn’t touch a live crawdad or various artificials, but could be coaxed into picking up a live worm.

Crawler Tackle

Crawlers can be fished on tackle as heavy as a medium-heavy spinning rod with 10- or 12-pound mono, but micro-light gear in the 1- to 6-pound class is ideal for presenting these light baits naturally. When targeting trophy-size bass (over 10 pounds) near hazardous cover, I use 30-pound-test braided line on medium-power spinning tackle. But in most situations, microlight is best.

In crawler fishing, it’s critical to cast 25 to 40 feet with little or no weight. My favorite combo is a 6-foot G-Loomis SR720 rated for 1- to 4-pound line. I match that with an Abu Garcia Cardinal 300 reel that weighs 6.3 ounces or a similar-size Pinnacle model. A velvet-smooth drag is essential. I favor Tuff-Line Plus micro-braid rated at 12-pound test but with the diameter of 2-pound mono. Of course, if that spider web-like braid hits a sharp rock, it’s back to 2-pound test.

Braid casts like a dream and matches my rod and reel perfectly. I use a Seaguar fluorocarbon leader 3 to 4 feet long of 8- or 10-pound test, attached to my main line with a blood knot. The leader not only increases abrasion resistance near the bait, but also decreases visibility and keeps the crawler in line. With my heavier combos, I use a 15- or 20-pound-test fluorocarbon leader on 30-pound braid.

When anglers ask if that rig is tough enough to deal with a 10- to 15-pound bass, I tell them of the day on Clear Lake when a buddy and I landed 935 pounds of channel cats, 70 pounds of brown bullheads and white cats, plus around 500 pounds of carp on microlight rigs.

Crawler Care

Worms should be kept fresh and lively—they need to be cool during storage and while fishing. At home, the crisper in your fridge works great. North Country anglers might get away with a cool basement or garage, but beware of hot spells. For transportation and while fishing, a cooler or special crawler carrier works fine.

Similarly, hooked crawlers stay lively much longer in cool water. If a crawler becomes limp, replace it with a fresh one. If it’s still alive, place it in a separate container. After several days in good worm bedding, worms usually are good to go for another round of fishing.

Many anglers won’t break down and use livebait, particularly worms, which they perceive as not being the coolest way to catch fish. Crawlers are for novices, right? The more people who believe that, the better the odds will be for those who know better. I’ve always felt that catching the biggest fish in my waters, using whatever methods are legal and sporting, is the coolest and most logical choice.

*Fish Chris Wolfgram, Suisun City, California, is a dedicated chaser of all big fish, particularly California’s giant largemouths. Check his trophy bass Web site, www.trophybassonly.com.

• Over the years: Peep sights for improved vision
• How do peep sights improve your vision?
• Wrapping up

Peep sights work by being a small aperture that you look through. The peep sight is attached to the back of a rifle and allows you an improved view – without having to take your eye off the front sight / point of impact .

People who use peep sights on rifles tend to enjoy an enhanced level of vision as well as better accuracy. Simply looking through a peep sight has been found to improve vision by about 5 percent , and this number increases if peep sights are used regularly. This improvement in vision has greatly benefitted hunters who hunt at dawn and duskPeep sights are becoming more popular by the day, especially on lever action rifles, because of the easy installation and more accurate field of vision, as compared to other sights. If rifle peep sights are new to you, it’s advisable to give them a shot before you completely write them off as something that doesn’t work in your favor.

Read ahead to find out more about how peep sights help in not only improving your vision, but also your overall shooting experience!

Over the years: Peep sights for improved vision

In the early days of peep sights, hunters used peep sights on rifles to help them shoot more accurately in low light conditions. Peep sights were found to be very helpful in hunting during twilight hours when the game was most active but the sun had not risen yet or had already set. The aperture in a peep sight collects light and amplifies it as you look through it, which improves your ability to see your target in dim conditions.

People have long known peep sights to improve vision, so peep sights on riflesare widely used across the world. This improvement in vision is especially useful when aiming at targets during low light-time, or hunting during twilight hours.

However, although peep sight installation on rifles is becoming more popular than ever, some shooters are still hesitant to use peep sights because they’ve never tried them before or do not understand how peep sights work and how they improve vision.

How do peep sights improve your vision?

Rifle peep sights greatly improve daylight vision, as well as work well in low light conditions – which has helped many shooters hit their mark with greater ease than ever before. Peep sight usage is becoming more popular every day among rifle owners who would like an easy way to improve their ability to see targets when shooting at night or in twilight hours.

The benefits of installing peep sights on your rifle are many and varied, but the ability to see your target more clearly in low light conditions is one of the most important reasons to install peep sights on your rifle.

Peep sights also don’t obstruct the target as much as other types of rifle sight due to their sleek design and peep sight installation is easy to do. Additionally, the wide field of view that peep sights offer makes it easy for shooters to follow the action and keep track of their targets.

Even in low light conditions, peep sights will help you see the target more clearly so you can make that perfect shot. Some good examples of peep sights are the Marlin 1894 peep sights and 1895 peep sights.

The merits of installing peep sights on your rifle:

1) Peep sights don’t magnify the target like telescopic sights do, which can be a benefit or a drawback depending on the shooter’s preference.

2) Peep sights don’t require batteries to operate as telescopic sights do.

3) Peep sights handle recoil better than telescopic sights do.

4) Peep sights offer a wider field of view than telescopic and prismatic sights.

5) Peep sights are easy to use, even for beginners.

6) Peep sights are an excellent choice for all types of competitive shooting.

7) Peep sights work well in low light conditions, making them perfect for hunting at twilight hours.

8) Peep sight installation is simple and easy to do; and they work on many different types of rifles without needing tools for installation.

Moving ahead, let’s get a better insight into how to use a peep sight on a rifle, and what’s the way to pick the best fit.

How do I pick the right peep sight for my rifle?

1) Determine the peep sight aperture size you need for low light (smaller) or full light shooting (larger).

2) Decide on a peep sight mount style that will work best with your firearm model and shooting preferences.

3) Determine peep sight windage and elevation settings to align with your front sight..

4) Check customer reviews of peep sights from reputable brands to ensure quality is up to par before you buy.

5) Once you have chosen the peep sight that you want to purchase, make sure to measure the size of your rifle’s existing rear sight aperture and order a peep sight that is the same size or larger.

6) If your rifle does not have a rear sight aperture, choose a peep sight with a built-in aperture ring that fits the diameter of your barrel.

7) Some peep sights come with interchangeable aperture rings in different sizes for shooters who want to customize their sighting system.

8) Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for peep sight installation.

9) Test your new peep sight at an outdoor shooting range before taking it on a hunt. Sight in your rifle with the new peep sight to make sure the shots are landing where you expect them to.

Wrapping up

At the end of the day, peep sights are a great choice for shooters and work to greatly improve their vision when shooting in low-light conditions. Whether peep sight installation is right for you depends on your preferences, but you’re sure to go home with dinner if you’ve installed peep sights on the rifle you’re using.

Moreover, peep sights are a great way to improve your vision when shooting in low light conditions, and they offer several other benefits that make them a better choice than other sighting systems. Whether you’re a hunter, shooter, or gun enthusiast, peep sights are worth considering as an upgrade to your rifle.

Happy Shooting!

Hello from South West France,

Firstly many thanks for supporting BBR on Patreon, it is very much appreciated and certainly helps support me with the site and YouTube channel.

Your question is an interesting one and somewhat interestingly, based on the details I have managed to uncover, the answer as to which version of the Vortex Viper HD 8×42 binoculars is best is not completely straightforward:

I actually have reviewed the old version (SKU VPR-4208-HD): Vortex Viper HD 8×42 Binoculars Review, so I do have experience with them, but as you say the old version has been superseded as I made that review about 12 years ago now, when I was still pretty new to testing binoculars!

Whilst I really did like those Vortex binoculars, I unfortunately no longer have them with me, nor do I have the new version, so I can’t compare them side-by-side for you. But let’s take a look at the facts and see if we can draw some conclusions from that:

I did indeed first ask the BinoWizard if he could get some details for me:

BBR: Hi BinoWizard, can you compare all the main specifications and features of the old VIPER HD 8×42 binoculars (sku VPR-4208-HD) versus the current model for me: VIPER HD 8×42 binoculars (SKU V200)

BinoWizard: Certainly! Here’s a comparison of the main specifications and features of the old VIPER HD 8×42 binoculars (SKU VPR-4208-HD) and the current model VIPER HD 8×42 binoculars (SKU V200) based on the information provided on the respective product pages:

Old Vortex VIPER HD 8×42 binoculars (SKU VPR-4208-HD):

1. Magnification: 8x
2. Objective Lens Diameter: 42mm
3. Prism System: Roof prism
4. Lens Coatings: XR™ Fully Multi-Coated
5. Field of View: 347 feet at 1000 yards (6.6 degrees angular field of view)
6. Close Focus Distance: 5.1 feet (1.55m)
7. Eye Relief: 20mm
8. Interpupillary Distance 59-75 mm
9. Weight: Weight 24.2 oz (686g)
10. Dimensions 5.8 inches (14.7cm) x 5.3 inches (13.4cm)

Current Vortex VIPER HD 8×42 binoculars (SKU V200):

1. Magnification: 8x
2. Objective Lens Diameter: 42mm
3. Prism System: Roof prism
4. Lens Coatings: XR™ Fully Multi-Coated
5. Field of View: 409 feet at 1000 yards (7.8 degrees angular field of view)
6. Close Focus Distance: 6 feet (1.83m)
7. Eye Relief: 18mm
8. Interpupillary Distance 55-74 mm
9. Weight: Weight 24.5 oz (695g)
10. Dimensions 5.6 inches (14.2cm) x 4.9 inches (12.4cm)

Optical Components & Coatings

BinoWizard was able to help with the basic specifications but was not much help when I quizzed him further about the specifics of the optics used. It is not really his fault as the AI can only go by what information is supplied and published. However, as humans, we can make some assumptions:

ED Glass

We know for sure that the old Viper HD binoculars do use Extra-low Dispersion (ED) glass in the lenses because the product page on the Vortex Optics website states the following “premium HD (High Density) extra-low dispersion glass” which helps in reducing chromatic aberration and enhancing color fidelity, sharpness, and contrast in the images.

However, the product listing on the new Viper does not specifically mention ED glass anywhere, only that it uses the Vortex HD optical system.

It is a strange omission, and I could not find an official statement from Vortex to state what exactly their HD system refers to, but I asked BinoWizard, and this is what he came back with:

I quizzed him about where he got this info from as it does sound very much like manufacturers marketing jargon lacking in specific details, unfortunately, it was not much use:

BinoWizard: I apologize for any confusion caused, but I don’t have direct access to the internet or specific web pages. The information I provided about Vortex’s HD optical system is based on my training on a diverse range of data, including product descriptions, reviews, and general knowledge about optics. It’s important to note that while I strive to provide accurate and up-to-date information, it’s always a good idea to verify details and consult official sources, such as the manufacturer’s website or product documentation, for the most precise and current information on specific products.

Anyway, based on the BinoWizard’s information and the fact that Vortex Optics also advertise their higher-end Razor binoculars like the Vortex Razor HD 8×42 as also using their HD optical system, which I know used ED glass, I think we can assume that these new Vortex Viper HD’s do probably have ED glass in their lenses.

I would also like to include that whilst there may be some minor differences in the exact glass and coatings used, my guess would be that the overall level of optics and thus the resultant observable quality of view will be very similar.

Optical Specifications

What is certainly different is the optical pathway and lens configuration as the fields of view, close focus distances, and eye relief are different and these would be noticeable if you were to compare the views side-by-side. Which is best will depend on your specific needs and preferences.

Field of View

Measuring 409 feet wide at a distance of 1000 yards which equals a viewing angle of 7.8 degrees, the new Vortex VIPER HD 8×42 binoculars (SKU V200) are what I would describe Wide Angle Binoculars and they offer a substantially wider view than the old version (347 feet at 1000 yards (6.6 degrees).

For most people, this would be the preferable choice, but especially if like you, you are after a good birding binocular as this helps make it easier to quickly locate and follow small fast moving objects… like birds.

Eye Relief & Close Focus Distance

However, in order to achieve this wide view, Vortex has obviously had to compromise the amount of eye relief and it has also resulted in a slightly longer minimum focus distance.

Having said that and whilst it is true that the old versions are better in both these areas, the new version is still pretty good.

The 18mm of eye relief should be sufficient for most users who need to wear glasses, but if you do have thick glasses and or they sit far from your eyes, then the improved 20mm of eye relief you get on the old Viper could be important.

The close focus distances will only really be an issue if you specifically like to view objects from a very close range and if so, there are better binoculars for this purpose – for example, the Pentax Papilio II 8.5×21 Binoculars

Body Design, Materials & Components

I was not able to find out any details in regard to the chassis materials and whilst the styling is somewhat similar there are some differences:

The overall dimensions and weights are different, but none are big enough to warrant talking about.

In terms of style, I personally prefer the look of the older version, especially the eyecups, eyepieces, and focus wheel, but this is mostly just my personal preference.

Although having said that, the older focus wheel was an all-metal exterior, whilst the new one has a rubber track and I think is made of plastic. This does not mean the focus mechanism will be any different, but I do feel metal ones look more premium.

Conclusions

I think the overall styling and build quality of the older Vortex Viper HD 8×42 binoculars (sku VPR-4208-HD) was probably a little better, with more metal parts.

However, the very wide field of view on the new Viper HD 8×42 binoculars (SKU V200) is hard to ignore, especially as a birder.

Either way, I think both sets are certainly much, much better than the 411 EUR you have paid for them, so I am sure you have a good deal no matter which you choose.

Comments from Vortex

Just to let you know that I have also reached out to my contacts at Vortex to see if they have anything to add. I will include them here as soon as I get any.

When you think of airsoft guns, the first thing that may come to mind is the movie “National Lampoon’s Vacation” where Chevy Chase and his family are terrorized by a group of thugs armed with airsoft guns. Airsoft guns have certainly come a long way since then and are now used for recreational activities by many people. But what exactly is the difference between an airsoft gun and an airgun? Let’s take a closer look.

Overview of Airsoft Guns:

Airsoft guns are types of simulated firearms that are powered by batteries or compressed air. They fire spherical plastic BBs using a spring-fed mechanism called the “blowback” system.

Unlike actual guns, they have been designed specifically for use as target practice and simulation training tools, especially for law enforcement officers and military personnel.

Airsoft guns come in a variety of styles, sizes, and colors to suit the needs of different users. Many models also feature tactical upgrades such as scopes, lasers, lights, grenade launchers, adjustable stocks, rails for mounting accessories like flashlights or bipods, etc.

Overview of Airguns:

Airguns are a type of shooting equipment that uses compressed air or spring pistons to propel projectiles. Unlike conventional firearms, which typically rely on combustible propellants such as gunpowder for their power source, airguns use pressurized air or springs instead.

There are several different types of airguns, ranging from small handguns and rifles to powerful pellet guns and BB guns. Some models feature single-shot mechanisms while others have magazines capable of holding multiple rounds. Most airgun designs also feature mechanisms such as break barrels or underlever cocking systems that make them easier to reload and shoot.

Airsoft Guns Vs Air Guns – Differences Between These Two Guns

Materials and Barrels:

– Airsoft Guns:

Airsoft guns are made of tough, lightweight plastic materials that can withstand high impact and provide good resistance to scratches and dings. They also feature precision barrels made from metal alloys such as steel or aluminum for enhanced accuracy and range.

– Air Guns:

Air guns are typically made of wood, metal, or other durable materials that can withstand repeated use. The stock can be made of wood or synthetic materials. The barrels may be constructed from steel, aluminum, or other robust materials to ensure precision performance at a range of distances.

Power Sources:

– Airsoft Guns:

Airsoft guns typically rely on gas pressure or spring-powered mechanisms to propel the projectiles they fire, although some models may incorporate electric motors instead. These power sources allow airsoft guns to deliver consistent muzzle velocities across different shooting conditions.

– Air Guns:

Air guns are typically powered by compressed air or springs, although some models may also incorporate gas piston systems or precharged pneumatics (PCPs) instead. This allows users to precisely adjust the firing velocity of their airgun based on shooting conditions, target type, and range.

Power and Range

– Airsoft Guns:

Airsoft guns are commonly designed to deliver muzzle velocities of between 300 and 600 feet per second, which is sufficient for short-range target practice and simulation training. Some models can reach much higher velocities, up to 800 or even 1000 FPS.

– Air Guns:

Air guns typically have a muzzle velocity ranging from 500 to 900 FPS, which is enough for both hunting and recreational shooting at targets or small game animals. Some .177 pellet guns can reach velocities of over 1200 FPS, the Gamo Magnum. Air guns have multiple calibers to choose from: .177, .22, .25, .30, .357, all the way up to .50. The bigger the caliber, the more powerful an air gun is, some can take down large games like deers or elks.

Accuracy:

– Airsoft Guns:

Airsoft guns are typically designed to provide good accuracy at close to medium ranges, with some models also capable of hitting targets at longer distances. Their barrels and sights are often precisely calibrated to ensure accurate shooting results.

– Air Guns:

Air guns can also deliver excellent accuracy over both short and long ranges, due to the precision construction of their barrels and sighting systems. These guns may be equipped with scopes or other types of optical sights that enhance the shooter’s ability to zero in on targets from a distance.

Ammunition:

– Airsoft Guns: use BBs as their primary ammunition type, although some models may also use metal or plastic pellets. These projectiles are typically small in size and lightweight, allowing airsoft guns to deliver large volumes of fire for short periods of time.

– Air Guns:

Air guns rely on a variety of different types of ammunition that can range from wooden pellets to lead airgun bullets or arrows. Most air gun cartridges are sized to fit into the chamber of the gun without modification, while others require specific chambering adapters. The choice of the projectile will determine how powerful an air gun is, with heavier ammo delivering more recoil and greater impact force on targets.

Purpose:

– Airsoft Guns: for sport and target practice, airsoft guns are used by recreational shooters and enthusiasts to practice shooting skills. They can also be used in military and law enforcement training simulations as well.

– Air Guns:

Air guns are commonly used for hunting small/medium/large game animals, pest control, target practice, or competitive shooting. Many air gun enthusiasts also enjoy participating in air gun competitions such as field target shooting, bullseye target shooting, or plinking.

(For more on the best air rifle for hunting medium games, see this post)

If you are interested in making homemade sausage, you are in the right place. I have been making sausage for decades, and I’d like to share with you my comprehensive tutorial on how to make sausage at home.

I’ve learned a lot in the decade-plus since I first wrote instructions on how to make sausage. Each year I learn a new tip or trick, a bit more about meat science, how to get a better bind, which casings are better than others, etc.

This will be a fairly comprehensive article on homemade sausage, meant to get you started, with a sample sausage recipe at the bottom. But understand that making sausage is a process, one you will not perfect the first time out. Perfection comes with practice, precision, plus a little luck.

Why Make Homemade Sausage?

Fair question. After all, even small supermarkets sell several kinds of sausages. The reason is that making your own gives you control. Control over the meat and fat, control over the seasonings, control over the grind, the size and thickness of the links, control over whether your homemade sausages are smoked or fresh.

Anyone reading this who hunts or raises livestock will also want to learn how to make sausage. After all, it’s a wonderful thing to make when you bring home a deer, or some ducks, a mess of pheasants, or after your annual hog slaughter.

Making sausage can be as easy or as hard as you want. Whipping together a batch of homemade sausage without casings is as easy as making meatloaf, which is very similar actually.

Casing links is a little trickier, but it ain’t rocket science. Oh, and yes, there is a little science to know about sausage making.

Basics

At it’s core, sausage is meat + fat + salt, kneaded until it binds to itself. That’s it.

Obviously most of us want to add more seasonings, or maybe stuff the sausage into casings. Or smoke it. We’ll get to all of that below. Let’s break the magic equation above down to its components.

Meat for Homemade Sausage

Any meat will do. I’ve made sausage with lots of weird things, from woodcock and beaver to standards like pork, beef and chicken. I’ve even made fish sausages. My collection of sausage recipes is broken down by general meat type, so that should help you choose one after reading this tutorial.

Unfrozen meat binds to itself better than thawed meat, and pork binds to itself better than other meats. A good compromise is to use your thawed game meats and some never-frozen pork shoulder or belly.

The gnarlier the meat in terms of connective tissue, the more times you will want to grind it. Most sausages I make are ground twice. More on that in a moment.

Fat in Making Sausage

Let’s talk fat. Homemade sausage almost always has pork fat in it, because, well, it’s superior to other fats in terms of melting point, availability and flavor. The best pork fat is fatback, off the back of the hog. Belly is OK, but a little soft. Shoulder is a nice compromise and easy to get.

Leaf lard, or any fat from the interior of any animal, will be harder than fat on the outside of the animal. It’s so hard — meaning it has a higher melting point — that I won’t use it from lambs, goats or cattle, whose fat has a higher melting point to begin with.

Oh, and if you want to use fat from deer, elk, moose or any other cervid, read my article on cooking deer fat here. Short version: Use very little in homemade sausage. Note: pronghorn aren’t cervids, so their fat is fine to use.

Beef fat, or that from other bovids like bison, nilgai, oryx, yak or musk ox, is perfectly fine when harvested from the outside of the body cavity. It can be too hard when taken from the inside, but it does depend on the animal’s diet.

Bird fat is too soft for making sausage, unless you are making an emulsified sausage, like a hot dog.

Never use lard. Previously rendered fat won’t work in normal homemade sausage.

In terms of percentage, you will want no less than about 15 percent, and no more than about 35 percent. I shoot for about 20 to 25 percent normally.

Salt and Curing Salt

You need salt to make sausage. Period. The very word sausage comes from the Latin salsus, meaning “salted.” My recipes use kosher salt because it’s readily available and lacks additives like anti-caking agents, which can mar the flavor of your links.

I use Diamond Crystal kosher salt. If you use it too, my volume measurements will be the same. Morton’s kosher salt is cut differently, so volumetric measurements won’t be the same — you’ll have to go by weight.

Which is why salting by weight is way, way, way better. When you do that, you can use whatever salt you want in homemade sausage. I really like using salt I’ve harvested from the Pacific Ocean for this, because, well, I am weird like that.

Along those lines, avoid weird salt. Like those black and bright red Hawaiian salts. Or flavored salts. Also avoid salt with really big crystals because it won’t mix evenly in your sausages.

A general rule for fresh homemade sausage is to use between 1 and 2 percent salt by total weight of the meat and fat. So for a standard 5-pound batch, which is 2268 grams, at minimum, I’d use about 23 grams of salt, which is about 5 1/2 teaspoons. In reality, I prefer my sausage saltier, so I add about 1.5 percent by weight.

Curing salt is not evil. There, I said it.

For the purposes of this discussion we’re talking about sodium nitrite, which is used in smoked sausages. It is there for food safety — it can prevent listeria and botulism — as well as flavor. It’s why hams, pastrami and corned beef have that rosy, hammy flavor.

And for everyone who thinks they’re not getting nitrites by eating “uncured” products, know that the manufacturers are lying to you. There’s a loophole in the regulations that says if you use celery powder, you can say you aren’t curing meats. Well, celery powder is loaded with sodium nitrite, so there you go.

Anyway, rant over. Use one or the other when you are making smoked sausages.

Additives

Not all additives are bad in sausage. I’ve used a lot of them, rejected most, and a few I have turned to repeatedly because they give you a better link. What I am talking about are things like vegetable fibers, dry milk, binders, etc. that can improve the texture of homemade sausage.

Dry milk and a product called C-bind, from The Sausage Maker (it’s carrot fiber) will both help your links retain more moisture. Not usually a problem with fresh sausages, but very useful for smoked sausages.

Butcher and Packer has a “special meat binder” that is really good, and you only need tiny amounts to improve the bind of your sausage. They don’t say what it is, but I imagine it’s ground up fairy wings or gold dust or something…

Equipment for Homemade Sausage

Alas, you cannot make homemade sausage without equipment. At the very least you need a grinder. I will not condone making sausage with a food processor any more. I used to, and you might see it as an option in some old recipes here, but it’s gross. Don’t.

Can you make homemade sausage without a grinder? Um, you can, but it’s a terrible process. You need to hand mince pounds of meat and fat without it heating up, then jam it into casings through a wide funnel. I’ve done it, and it sucks.

Grinders

At the very least you need the KitchenAid grinder attachment, which is fine for very small batches. I have used mine, off and on, since the early 2000s. But it’s not for anyone serious about things.

I use a Weston 1/2 horsepower commercial grade grinder. I like it a lot because it’s sturdy and it’s all steel. Some cheap grinders have plastic innards that will die if, say, you get a piece of bird shot jammed in the blade; good grinders have an emergency shut off that prevents the motor from seizing.

Another good grinder I’ve used is a LEM grinder. I recommend the 1/2 horsepower and the 0.35 horsepower models. Don’t bother with dual grind grinders. They jam easier and are hard to clean.

Stuffers

For the love of all that’s holy, don’t use your grinder as a stuffer! Running finished sausage that you worked so hard to get a good bind through an augur that shears apart that bind is crazy. Buy a stuffer or just make uncased sausage.

I hate the Weston stuffers because they leave too much meat in them when the plunger is all the way down. A few other companies use this design, and it’s silly. Butcher & Packer, the Sausage Maker and LEM make good stuffers.

Yes, it’s a few hundred bucks, but they last forever, are easy to clean and they make really good links.

Casings

I only use natural casings. I don’t like collagen casings because they are barely edible, if at all, and when they are they taste nasty. But you do you.

Hog casings are the norm, and they come in a variety of widths, which have some traditional recipes associated with them. Bockwurst, for example, needs a wide casing. Weisswurst needs a skinny one, or even a sheep casing.

Sheep casings are awesome when you are done making sausage with them, but they rip easily and will cause you to swear while trying to fill them. Consider getting “pre-tubed” sheep casings, which are easir to put on the stuffer.

Beef casings are very wide and are only really used in fresh sausages for recipes where the eater can’t eat pork. They’re mostly used in salami.

The gold standard of casing companies is Butcher and Packer. No one else comes close.

Other Random Stuff

I like to have a big needle or a sausage pricker (cue Beavis and Butthead laughter) to pierce the casings of the finished sausage to remove air pockets.

You’ll want something to hang your links from. I use a wooden clothes drying rack.

Spice grinders are useful for, well, grinding spices. Freshly ground spices make a difference.

Actually Making Homemade Sausage

OK, you’re all set. Now what?

A really short tutorial on how to make sausage would look something like this:

• Cut meat and fat into pieces that fit into the grinder.
• Add the required salt and/or sugar, mix then put in the fridge overnight
• Grind once coarsely
• Grind a second time with lots of seasonings.
• Chill the meat well, then add liquid, whatever seasonings you didn’t want all ground up, and mix really well for a couple minutes. You’re done if you are making uncased sausage.
• Put the mix into the stuffer, put the casings on the stuffer, then make a big coil.
• Make the links from the coil. Tie them off. Hang for a while to “bloom.” Cook and eat.

Before we get into the basic recipe below, I’ll walk you through it in pictures.

Start with meat and fat. Usually with game, the meat is super lean, so I will go something like 3 pounds of this lean meat (venison, duck, pheasant, etc.) with 2 pounds of something fatty, like pork shoulder. Another good option is 4 pounds of lean and 1 pound of pure fatback.

Cut this into chunks that will fit in your grinder, then add the salt and mix. Set this in the fridge overnight. It will change color and get sticky.

Soak some casings in warm water and get your seasonings ready. I like to freeze my blade, dies, augur and hopper for an hour or more before grinding, to keep things cold — more on that in a bit.

Grind through a very coarse die; I prefer a 10 mm die, but you could go higher if you have one.

Mix all the spices you want fully integrated into the sausage with the meat and fat. Do this carefully, and don’t squash the mix.

If the mixture is still cold, as in less than about 37F or so, you can grind it again immediately. I do this a lot because I am fast and I start with cold gear.

Beginners with homemade sausage should play it safe and freeze the mixture for 20 minutes or so while you clean up and get ready to grind again.

It is vital for everything to stay cold in this whole process to prevent “smear,” which is when the fat partially melts and coats the meat, breaking its ability to bind to itself. You see this when your sausage comes out crumbly.

When you’re ready, grind again.

Have a couple pieces of bread, a hamburger roll or something similar handy to finish out your grind; skip this if you are celiac.

The reason is that the bread pushes every last bit of meat through the grinder, so you don’t waste any.

Once you’re all ground, chill the mixture while you clean up. This is important not only to have cold meat and fat, but also because you really do want to clean your grinder right away, or it becomes a nasty, sticky mess. Ask me how I know…

Now you are ready to create the bind in your homemade sausage.

This is when you add ice cold liquid, usually water. Wine, beer, juice, cream are all common in various recipes. Be aware that acidic things will break your bind, so go easy on vinegar if you want a tight, snappy sausage; this is called knacken in German.

You’ll also add any herbs or spices you want the eater to see, like cracked peppercorns or parsley or fennel seeds.

Mix, mix, mix! I do this with my (clean) hands for about 2 minutes. Knead like bread. As it so happens, you are creating the same sort of protein bind that exists in bread. It’s gluten in bread, myosin in meat.

This is the moment in making sausage where meat temperature is most critical. If the fat warms and smears here, you’re cooked. Crumbly sausage. What you’re doing is making myosin that forms a network around the fat, and that won’t work well above 40F.

You’re done when you see white streaks on the bowl, and when you can pick up the whole shebang in one piece.

Now put the mix in the fridge and clean up again.

If you are not casing your sausage, you’re done! Portion out your sausage into blocks or make patties.

Casing Homemade Sausage

On to casing, which gives people fits until they figure it out. Casing is arguably the hardest part of making sausage, because you need the casings to be tight, but not to burst when cooking. Oh, and by the way, the most common reason your sausage bursts while cooking is high heat, not an over-stuffed sausage.

As I mentioned above, I prefer natural casings, usually hog casings. They’re versatile for most styles of sausage, and are by far the easiest to find. Many supermarkets have them (you’ll have to ask the meat counter people), and all butcher shops will have them.

First off, you will need to soak your casings in warm water to loosen them up; they’re usually stored heavily salted, and often frozen.

If you want, you can run water through your casings to check for leaks. I used to do this when I bought cheap casings, but I’ve never had a leak in any I’ve bought from Butcher and Packer.

Thread a long length of casing on the stuffer tube; they come in different sizes for different casings. Most are fine for hog casings, but if you work with narrow sheep casings, you’ll need a narrow tube.

Leave a long “tail” on the end of the casing; this is so you can tie it off easily later. Get the condom jokes out of your system for a while, then crank the stuffer down until you see the end of the sausage come out the tube. Cue scatological jokes, which will remain funny for a half hour or so…

Crank out a full coil, fully but not overly tight — you’ll need to twist off links in a moment. Stuff everything before you make links.

There are a few ways to make links, from tying them off with twine to elaborate twisting tricks. The method I use is simple and it works. The end of the coil is one link. Then you pinch off the next link, spinning it so it will hold.

You move down the coil and spin that one the opposite way; this keeps the links from unwinding too easily.

If this is confusing, I made a short video on making sausage links.

Work all the way down the coil until you get to the end, then tie off both ends after gently compressing the meat within those final links.

Now you need to compress the meat in each link, looking for air pockets. This is important for a proper bind and snap in homemade sausage, as well as to prevent boiling fat from spraying you when you slice into a link.

When you find air pockets, use a needle or the awesomely named sausage pricker to remove them. Pierce the casing, then gently compress the meat in the link to fill it.

Now, hang your homemade sausage so it can “bloom,” which is the word we use when the links change color a bit, tighten in their skins and dry out just a little.

It’s a good idea to wait a day after making sausage before eating them, as this blooming process really improves the links.

Storing Homemade Sausage

Once made, homemade sausage will keep a week in the fridge. I like to let them sit there a couple days, then I’ll separate the links and vacuum seal them in packets I plan on eating.

I do not recommend pressure canning or pickling sausages, although people do. Just not a fan of the results.

The Recipe

This is a very extensive list of the best trout lures for pond fishing and gives you, the angler, an opportunity to try new lures. There are a few more things to consider when fishing ponds for trout:

What is the best bait for trout in a pond?

Catch and Release Fishing has covered lures extensively in this blog, and we have considered some baits as well with the Gulp line of products. The one thing Catch and Release Fishing has not talked about are the actual, natural baits. There are plenty of natural bait options for trout in ponds. Here are the best baits compiled by the team at Catch and Release Fishing.

• Nightcrawlers – The humble worm found all over the world is one of the absolute best baits you can use for trout. Buy, or dig your own in soft earth like your home garden. Either way works equally well for trout. Some anglers have nightcrawler beds at home as well. You can too.

• Corn – Plain, yellow corn from a can is something people use frequently for trout in ponds and on rivers. Corn is cheap, and you can cook the leftovers with your creel full of trout.

• Salmon eggs – There are plenty of brands available. Check out the Gulp Salmon Eggs. These work as well or better than the actual salmon egg and are considerably more durable on the end of the line.

What do you use to catch trout in a pond?

Most people who fish for trout in a pond use conventional rod and reel gear and leave the fly rods at home. This is not to say you cannot use a fly rod if the angler chooses to do so. Conventional tackle simply works better.

That is why Catch and Release Fishing recommends the QUDRAKAST Fishing Rod and Reel Combo. This combo features everything needed to start fishing for trout and other species as well. The telescopic rod collapses down for convenient storage and carry.

This combo is also ideal for new anglers learning the sport. The reel is very easy to learn to use and casts exceptional distances.

What color lure is best for trout?

Trout can be incredibly finicky when it comes to what they will and will not strike in terms of a lure presentation. There are three things to consider when looking for the best lure for trout:

• Current feeding – Trout in streams and rivers feed on what is hatching. Trout in ponds are after different forage like minnows. Match your colors to what the trout are eating in the pond

• Water clarity – Clear water calls for colors like red and orange. Stained water means contrasting colors like pinks and chartreuse. Silver and black are good no matter what the water clarity looks like.

• Light penetration – Water in ponds can be very deep. In deeper water, use black, blue and green. Metallic colors – silver and gold work well in full sun and in deep water.

It is always a good idea to take a selection of lures with you when heading for a pond, stream or river. This way you can find what the trout are after.

Catch and Release Fishing has always had better luck with conventional tackle than with fly fishing gear. These lures have always produced for us as well.

Some of these lures do have treble hooks and are much more likely to provide a solid hook up and get more trout to the bank. However, this also means there is a better chance of doing harm to the fish when trying to get the hooks out and release the trout back into the water.

Any treble hook can be replaced with a single trout hook, and if you plan on releasing the fish, please consider using barbless trout hooks.

Catch and Release Fishing is about good practices and conservation. It is a hope you will do the same.

We look forward to seeing you on the water!

Check out our fly fishing hook size chart

There are a million different ways to catch trout. Bobbers and bait, spinners, crankbaits, and flies are all effective. But if I had to pick one way to fish for trout forever, it would be with spoons.

That’s because not only are spoons incredibly versatile, but they’re also one of the most fun and active ways to fish. You can troll them deep for lake trout, cast and retrieve them in lakes or big rivers, or flutter them through small streams. Spoon fishing can feel like an art, but it’s much more beginner-friendly than fly fishing.

There are about as many different spoons as there are anglers, but the best of the best spoons have stood the test of time. In this article, I’m going to go over the only 7 spoons you’ll ever need to catch trout. They each have their own subtly different advantages, and if you carry a few of them with you then you’ll always have a trout-slaying lure in your tackle box.

When it comes to trout fishing, simple is usually best, and spoons are about as simple as they come. Essentially, a spoon is just a single piece of oblong-shaped shiny metal with a concave surface (hence the name “spoon”). Actions vary, but they’re generally designed to wobble and flutter around when they’re retrieved, reflecting light at all angles as they go.

Their wobbling and flashy action is supposed to imitate small baitfish that aggressive, adult trout feed on. But even trout that feed primarily on insects will hit spoons, too, because that irresistible wobble triggers their instinct to strike.

This article is about spoons, so of course, I’m sticking to spoons. But if you want the lowdown on the best trout lures (including spinners, jigs, and crankbaits), check out my article on it.

And if you’re totally new to trout fishing and want a rundown on how to do it, check out my post on trout fishing 101.

You can skip this section if you’d like, but I want to give some background before I get into my rankings. The genius of a trout spoon is that it can be fished in more ways than you can count, and each spoon has advantages that work better for different situations.

Trout spoons are great for their versatility. You can crank them in, slow retrieve for a heavy wobble effect, or jig and drop to let them flutter on the fall. But you need to know what to try and when, so here are some basic rules.

Best Line For Spoon Fishing Trout

Spoons are for aggressive trout, so you don’t have to worry as much about using light line. Still, I like to use 4-6 pound test monofilament line for easier casting. If I know the water has potential for lunker brown trout or 20-inch rainbows, I’ll size that line up to 8 or even 10-pound test. When I fish for steelhead, I’ll use anywhere from 12-20 pound test line (usually depending on water clarity).

I also like to use fluorocarbon leaders (when I can afford it; check out my post on the best fluorocarbon line for any budget). Fluorocarbon sinks, helping spoons get down quicker in fast water. Fluorocarbon is best paired with 10-pound test braid, which is very thin and cuts through current easier than mono.

I wrote an entire post on the best fishing line for trout, broken down by species and situation, so check that out if you need more detailed info.

How To Retrieve Spoons

Every spoon lends itself to different kinds of retrieves, which I get into in my rankings below. But a typical spoon retrieve is steady, and just a little slower than you would need to fish an average spinner.

Certain spoons, like the Kastmaster, also work really well when retrieved erratically. Spoons like these have a lot of action when falling through the water column, so letting them stop and drop every now and then can be the key to getting strikes.

Then there are what I like to call “flutter spoons” like the Little Cleo. These spoons work great when cast upstream and reeled very slowly through a run or tailout. The current will do most of the work, and they’ll flutter and roll as they move downstream. Reel in just fast enough to keep them off the bottom, and let them swing across the current when they get downstream of you.

Finally there are spoons that work great for trolling, like the Krocodile. These can be cast and retrieved, too, but they’re also great for trolling deep for lake trout or big lakes rainbow trout.

Overall, the best way to retrieve a spoon is the way that’s working that day. Being adaptable is key. Mix up slow, fast, and jigging retrieves until you figure out what’s working.

Honestly, ranking trout spoons is hard. There are standouts, and every spoon on this list has stood the test of time. But the reality is that any of them might be best for any given river, day, or trout species. They’re all proven to catch trout and they all deserve a place in your tackle box.

With that said, here are the best trout spoons, ranked by popularity, reliability, and of course, my own personal opinion.

As many trout anglers will tell you, if you only buy one spoon, make it a Kastmaster.

That’s because of all the spoons on the market, the Kastmaster is the most versatile. Its unique flat shape allows it to be fished in any way imaginable. You can troll at high speeds without sacrificing action, you can cast it a country mile, and you can even jig it vertically for incredible results. It’s so versatile that I even wrote a whole post about it, so check that out for more details (LINK).

Kastmaster comes in a ridiculous amount of colors, but like any good trout spoon, the best colors are gold and silver. Anywhere from 1/12 oz to 1/4 oz work great for trout fishing, but 1/8 oz seems to be the sweet spot for rivers and lakes, and I like 1/12 oz in shallow creeks.

#2. Acme Little Cleo

Being from the northwest, I really wanted to make the Acme Little Cleo lure my number one. It’s a steelhead killer (steelhead are just ocean-going rainbow trout), and the coastal guides and locals swear by it. The Kastmaster is a tiny bit more versatile, but if you were only going to buy two spoons, the Little Cleo and the Kastmaster complement each other perfectly.

While the Kastmaster has a quick, aggressive action that triggers a quick bite, the Little Cleo is a bit more on the finesse side. Letting river current do most of the work is key, and the way that current deflects off of a slowly sinking Cleo can be absolute magic.

Cleo’s excel when swinging through tailouts and slower water. Their perfect flutter as the current slows down is a trout magnet, perfectly imitating a wounded baitfish that got swept through the faster current above. The best way to fish them is to cast slightly upstream and keep the line tight, reeling very slowly to keep them moving downstream and fluttering the whole way through.

When it comes to Little Cleos, blue and silver in 1/6oz or 1/4oz is my go-to color. But solid silver, solid gold, and silver and red have all been solid trout catchers for me and the folks I fish with.

#3. Luhr Jensen Krocodile

The Luhr Jensen Krocidile comes in at number three because it’s one of the best trout lures for trolling. Its elongated design and spin create a more aggressive flash than most other spoons, and it’s killer when the trout are super aggressive. At 2 1/4 inches for the smallest option, it’s the longest lure on this list.

It might not be the best trout spoon for finicky fish, but when the bite is hot, the Krocodile can bring in more fish from longer distances. It’s a great option for speedy trolling in lakes, too, because their weight and elongated body keep them deeper down in the strike zone. I also like it for bank casting during the fall when big trout start to feed more aggressively.

I like these lures in silver and gold, but with the hammered finish. I think the dimples provide even more flash than the smooth versions, and that’s exactly what I use them for. Size totally depends on what I’m fishing for. When trolling for big lake rainbows I’ll use the 3 1/4 inch, 1 oz size, but I’ll size down when casting from the bank for smaller trout.

#4. Thomas Buoyant

The Thomas Bouyant comes in at #4 on my list because it does something that few spoons do: it works exceptionally well at slow speeds. That’s why it’s one of my go-to’s for high mountain streams or shallow creeks. It can be fished effectively at slower speeds than any other spoon on this list, but it still provides a ton of flash and wobble.

With the Buoyant, don’t even tie it on if you want to crank it in. It spins more than it wobbles, and it’ll quickly twist your line up if you’re not careful. Just flutter it and retrieve it slowly, which is great for inducing a strike from wary lurkers.

Copper is my go-to color, but the Rasta-esque “firetiger” can sometimes be the ticket to catching finicky biters. Since it’s a great small stream lure for me, I usually stick to the 1/6 oz option.

#5. Acme Phoebe

When I was first given a few Acme Phoebes, my first impression was “gimmicky”. The fact that it’s cut out into the shape of an actual baitfish seemed weird, given that spoons are really just for flash. But after fishing with them, I realized that something about those offset fin cuts gives the Acme Phoebe a unique action. Make no mistake: the Phoebe catches trout with the best of them.

Like the Thomas Buoyant spoon, it spins rather than wobbles, and it doesn’t sink as fast as most spoons. It works really well for fishing at slow speeds, which makes it a great option for small streams and shallow creeks. Silver and gold in 1/12 oz or 1/8 oz are standbys, but the rainbow trout color has also been great for me.

#6. Eppinger Dardevle

Though there are spoons that I like a little better these days, the Dardevle is still the classic of classics. It was originally released in 1918, and has probably caught more trout in its history than any other trout lure. When my grandpa gave me his old fishing tackle it was chock full of Dardevles, and he swore that those were his go-to trout catchers.

The classic Dardevle spoon color is red and white stripes. Probably because of nostalgia more than anything, that color is what I usually fish with. But trout love silver and gold, too, and there are plenty of color variations to try out. I like this heavy spoon best with a fast retrieve, which is killer for everything from lake trout to big river rainbows to northern pike.

Because it works best on big, aggressive fish, I usually fish for trout with Dardevle’s in the 1/4-1/2 oz size.

#7. Blue Fox Pixee

As a Northwest native, I have to give the Pixee a place on this list. My dad grew up fishing with them for king salmon in Alaska, and they have a special place in every salmon angler’s heart. But trout and salmon are in the same family, and Pixee’s catch tons of trout, too.

Pixees are big and heavy (the smallest option is 1/4oz), so they work best for long casts in deep water. Because I mostly fish smaller creeks, I don’t use them that often. But when the water is fast and deep, there are few better spoons than a Pixee.

My favorite colors are silver with fluorescent red or orange. They make a variety, so any classic trout color should work well.

#8. Everything Else

Spoons are pretty simple, so in all honesty, even Wal-Mart brand spoons will catch trout. But the lures on this list have earned their spots. They’ve been proven fish-catchers for decades, they last forever, and they’re made with quality hooks and materials. They also do something a little different than the rest, and most off-brand spoons are designed to imitate one of these classic 7.

If you do want to try out some cheaper brands, definitely go for it. But check out the hooks for sharpness, try to avoid painted ones (cheap paint is a common way to cut corners), and if it looks like one of the lures on this list, that’s probably a good sign.

FAQ

Spoons are trout fishing at its finest. They have survival kit-level reliability, are easy to use, and have enough versatility to fish any water you can find. If you keep a few of these spoons in your tackle box, you’ll never be without a secret weapon for catching trout.

We’re still dreaming of the day when suppressor ownership is legal in all 50 states. Thankfully, great progress has been made in recent years and it is now legal to own a suppressor in 42 of the 50 states.

Making suppressed hunting legal in states where it is legal to own a suppressor has been equally taxing, but also very rewarding. To date, it’s legal to hunt with a suppressor in 41 states.

The most obvious benefit of hunting suppressed is safety, particularly when it comes to protecting your hearing. Noise-induced hearing loss is the most common affliction for hunters. A lot of this comes from hunters forgoing hearing protection year after year for their entire hunting career so that they can hear their surroundings. After all, hearing nature around you is one of the best parts of hunting.

A secondary benefit is that it protects the hearing of your hunting companions. There’s nothing better than sharing an elk hunt with your friends or family, but it can easily be tainted by the sound of an unsuppressed gunshot. Maybe it won’t bother them right away, but over time, it will.

Animals like varmints or predators will go into hiding when they hear a gunshot, so a suppressor is almost a necessity in these instances. Some game animals like deer or elk may completely avoid an area if they are alerted to gunshots. We have seen this firsthand with small game such as ground squirrels that go into hiding for hours after the sound of the first shot and on other occasions not changing a thing because we were shooting suppressed.

Along with not disturbing the game in a given hunting area, suppressors also let you avoid disturbing local residents. Remember, not all hunting is done in the vast majesty of elk country. It may be small in the grand scheme of things, but a decrease in noise complaints is a good thing for everyone.

In this guide, we’re going to dig into all things hunting with a suppressor, including why you need to have one on your next elk hunt.

WHY HUNT WITH A SUPPRESSOR?

As we mentioned, in addition to protecting your hearing, a suppressed firearm allows you to use your unencumbered ears to listen for elk bugling, communicate with fellow hunters, and avoid alerting predators. Quite simply, it allows you to be fully aware of your surroundings from a hearing perspective.

In 2015, Montana Governor Steve Bullock of Montana said it best in a letter to the Montana Speaker of the House, stating: “Suppressors mitigate the sound of a shot, but do not silence it. The use of suppressors for hunting, when hunters cannot wear ear protection because they need to be aware of their surroundings, can help protect against hearing loss. This is especially true for our younger hunters, even those who are not actually hunting but are accompanying their parents in the field.”

Hearing protection in the form of muffs or plugs is as effective but only while being worn. In the field, it is important to be aware of your surroundings, especially in bear, mountain lion, or rattlesnake country. The hunter can easily become the hunted without the situational awareness that hunting with a suppressed firearm offers.

BENEFITS OF HUNTING SUPPRESSED

In summary, suppressed hunting offers a number of benefits that you may have not considered. Here’s a list of those benefits:

• Protect your hearing
• Protect the hearing of others
• Maintain awareness of your surroundings
• Enjoy sounds of nature, like elk bugling
• Avoid disturbing other game
• Reduce noise complaints
• Reduce recoil

IS IT LEGAL TO HUNT WITH A SUPPRESSOR?

Suppressors are legal to own in 42 states. Only one of those 42 doesn’t allow hunting with a suppressor, and that’s Connecticut. So, if you’re a suppressor owner and a hunter in Connecticut, get in touch with your state legislators and let them know it’s time to join the other 41 suppressor legal states that also allow hunting. Hunters’ voices in the other states made the difference in the other states and they can make the difference in Connecticut, too.

WHAT CAN I HUNT WITH A SUPPRESSOR?

In terms of what you can hunt with a suppressor, the sky is virtually the limit so long as you’re in one of the 41 states where suppressed hunting is legal.

As with all types of hunting – suppressor or otherwise – it’s still a good idea to check with your state and local game laws every year to make sure that things haven’t changed.

ELK HUNTING

Part of the thrill of elk hunting is the challenge. These majestic animals can give even the best and most experienced elk hunter a run for their money season after season. Therefore, any extra leg up you can get on them is welcomed when you’re out on the hunt.

Using a suppressor will keep your sound signature down so that you don’t disturb the rest of the herd when making your shot. This is especially important if, for some unfortunate reason or another, you miss your first shot. The less noise your rifle makes, the better chance you’ll have of getting off a second shot.

Since most elk hunting involves carrying all of your gear with you on the hunt, many hunters try to pack as simple and light as possible. This means that hearing protection often gets left behind. It’s not that a pair of electronic muffs are heavy; it’s simply that they’re one more piece of equipment to carry around. With a suppressor on the end of your barrel, you can protect your hearing without having to keep track of an extra piece of equipment.

DEER HUNTING

Deer hunting is greatly enhanced when using your suppressor. This is because most rifle suppressors offer a reduction in recoil. You may not need a .300 Winchester Magnum for a whitetail deer on the east coast at 50 yards but in the western states, but mule deer are larger and often taken at greater distances. Therefore, a bigger caliber may be more beneficial. The same holds true for other game animals such bighorn sheep and caribou.

Even if you’re using a rifle with lighter recoil for whitetail deer and don’t need the recoil reduction, it’s still nice to have the reduced sound signature to protect your ears.

COYOTE HUNTING

Whether you consider them to be varmints or predators, coyotes are some of the most intelligent and cagey animals to hunt. They recognize gunshots for what they are and even the youngest or most naïve of these creatures will keep a smart distance in spite of your best predator calls once they hear one. To sum it up, like their cartoon namesake, they are wily.

FERAL HOG HUNTING

Another animal with excellent hearing and one that knows the sound of gunshots for what they are is the feral hog. These animals have bred to out of control numbers in the wild and are a pestilence when it comes to agricultural, property, and other forms of damage. Suppressed hunting rifles are a necessity when taking out large numbers of them to protect crops and other things that they like to destroy.

VARMINT HUNTING

Prairie dog and ground squirrel hunters often benefit the most from the use of a silenced hunting rifle while varmint hunting. Animals such as these are well aware of what gunfire means and a large group will retreat to their burrows until they no longer hear gunfire.

A suppressed hunting rifle will allow you to maximize your efforts when you need to take them out in a small amount of time. It will allow you to take shots at them for hours on end, if that’s your intent.

BEST SUPPRESSORS FOR HUNTING

There are a lot of suppressors designed with hunting in mind that all share the same characteristics. You want it to be quiet, but also lightweight. Versatility and the ability to share it among different host guns is always a plus. We took a quick overview of a few different centerfire suppressors.

If you want a suppressor that was purpose-built with hunting in mind, then the BANISH Backcountry is one you should give serious consideration. It only weighs 7.8 oz and is only 5.5” in overall length. It’s also rated for use all the way up to .300 Remington Ultra Mag (RUM), so no matter what your choice for elk hunting, the BANISH Backcountry can handle it. The goal is to pack in ounces and pack out pounds, and the Backcountry will help you do just that.

One of the most versatile suppressors in the world is the BANISH 30. A fully user-serviceable can, it works with all of your rifle calibers from .17 HMR to .300 Weatherby. Testing shows that BANISH 30 reduces the report of a .308 Winchester by as much as 34 decibels. It is made from a strong, titanium alloy for unmatched durability at an extremely light weight.

If you are looking for a suppressor that can handle pistol calibers such as .45 ACP as well as large rifle calibers such as .45-70 Government, give the BANISH 46 a look. Made of titanium and Inconel, the BANISH 46 provides the ultimate combination of durability and weight reduction. The BANISH 46 weighs only 16.3 oz in the short configuration of 7.9”, and 20.4 oz in its 10” configuration.

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

As beneficial as suppressors are to the hunter, one would think that they would be easier to come by. Here are some frequently asked questions that may help you understand the buying process as well as their capabilities.

HOW QUIET ARE THEY, REALLY?

Actually measuring sound reduction with a suppressor can be tricky. We have all seen the various decibel rating charts, but they only tell a part of the story. The actual level of sound reduction and the sound meter, itself, can be affected by humidity, barometric pressure, altitude, and echo.

In general, hunting with a suppressor can lessen the sound of most gunshots by anywhere from 25 to 35 decibels, depending on the silencer and caliber in question. This is below the threshold for most hearing protection commonly worn in or over the ears. If you hunt with dogs, it protects their hearing as well.

The other item of note here is that the vast majority of elk hunting rifles (bolt-action, lever-action, pump-action, single-shot) make the best suppressor hosts because the sealed action means there is no gas leakage. A silenced elk hunting rifle will truly live up to its name in this regard.

HOW DO I BUY A SILENCER WITH SILENCER CENTRAL?

Silencer Central takes the formalities out of the paperwork with our digital process. You select the right suppressor for your firearm and let our expert compliance staff handle the paperwork which is emailed to you to digitally sign. With the fingerprint kit, taking your prints and passport-style photo can be accomplished from the privacy of your own home. To make it even easier, we offer a 4-month, eZ-Pay option so you can pay for your silencer in installments. Our free NFA Gun Trust (a $249 value) is set up for you to better protect the ownership of what is really a lifetime investment. Once approved, you receive notification via email and text message, and we ship the silencer directly to your doorstep.

Additionally, we realize that not all hunting rifles ship from the factory with threaded barrels to attach to your silencer. Silencer Central’s in-house machine shop can thread your rifle for you and ship the barrel straight back to your house.

In addition to stocking popular brands, we also offer BANISH multi-caliber suppressors, a 100% titanium and user-serviceable line exclusively built to our demanding specifications.

SHOULD I PURCHASE A SILENCER USING AN NFA GUN TRUST?

At one time, it seemed like purchasing a suppressor by means of using an NFA Trust was the only way to go. This was mainly to avoid wait times from local law enforcement, obtaining fingerprints, photos and, in some extreme cases, chief local law enforcement figures would flat out refuse to sign any NFA paperwork. Much of this is no longer an issue due to an ATF ruling a few years ago that stated the CLEO only needed to be notified of silencer purchases.

However, an NFA gun trust is not a bad thing to have for estate planning purposes, particularly if firearms and silencers are involved.

HOW LONG ARE WAIT TIMES?

Perhaps the biggest drawback to buying a suppressor is the long wait time to go through the FBI background check. The background check is not long in and of itself, but the time it takes for the application to complete the entire ATF approval process is definitely longer.

At times, trusts can be quicker than individuals but at other times this dynamic can change. E-forms filed online are quicker than paper forms filed by mail. Over the years, we have seen approval times as short as 9 days and as long as 27 months. As of this writing, suppressor approval wait times are running about 270 days.

DO SUPPRESSORS AFFECT PERFORMANCE OR ACCURACY?

This is a bit of a mixed bag. In general, suppressors improve performance and accuracy. The right suppressor will lessen felt recoil and eliminate noise flinch, making your silenced hunting rifle more accurate.

However, attaching a suppressor will often change the rifle’s Point of Impact (POI). Often this shift in POI is minimal and can be corrected by adjusting the optic or iron sights. The important thing to remember is that if you sight your rifle in without a suppressor, you will need to re-zero with the suppressor attached.

Some suppressors will need this every time you reattach if they are the QD (Quick Detach) type that attaches to a flash suppressor or muzzle brake. If you are going the direct thread or thread over muzzle brake (TOMB) route, the shift will be negligible unless you are shooting at extremely long ranges ( greater than 1,000 yards).

WHY IS THERE A $200 TAX STAMP?

In 1934, due to concerns about high-profile bank robberies and interstate crime sprees from Depression-era criminals, Congress passed the National Firearms Act. This was the first major piece of gun control legislation passed in the United States.

Although the original intent was to outlaw specific types of firearms, including all handguns, legislators decided to tax them out of circulation by imposing a $200 transfer tax.

The reason why the NFA tax is $200 is because that was the retail price of a Thompson submachine gun in 1934. It was intended to be a 100% excise tax on a firearm that caught the public’s imagination. When adjusted for inflation, that tax today would be $4,500. This is a reason why silencer development languished for so many years until the 21st century.

Products affected by this tax were machine guns, short-barreled rifles (SBR), short-barreled shotguns (SBS), and, of course, suppressors. Firearms that were not quite short-barreled long arms and those that were disguised to not look like a firearm were classified as Any Other Weapon (AOW) and subject to a $3 tax.

The NFA has undergone some minor changes over the past nine decades, including raising the AOW tax from $3 to $5 and changing the SBR length from 18” to 16”. There have been a few attempts by lawmakers to deregulate silencers and remove them from the purview of the NFA, but as of this writing, there is still a $200 tax on this safety device.

READY FOR YOUR FIRST SUPPRESSED ELK HUNT?

Hopefully, by now you have a better understanding of what to look for in a suppressor for hunting. Weight and length are a factor especially if you must walk a few miles on your first suppressed hunt. You also want one that will reduce sound to a comfortable level and maybe even help in the recoil department.

Armed with the knowledge laid out here we hope we can get you ready for that first suppressed hunt. A suppressor is as important to a hunter as a quality firearm, skinning knife, or optic.

The key to having a great hunt is to do your research, hire experts and guides. Let Silencer Central be your suppressor “hunting guide” and redefine the way you buy a silencer. We deliver silencers the simple way. You select your silencer; we manage your paperwork, and your silencer is shipped directly to your doorstep. It’s the service that’s unheard of.

Call our silencer specialists at 888-781-8778 to get started on your next suppressor purchase or visit SilencerCentral.com to buy online.

Among the myriad campfire discussions regarding the choice—and performance—of hunting cartridges, there are two words which have become a source of controversy over the last twenty years: “Six Five.” There was a time in the not-too-distant past, where very few hunters or shooters paid any attention to the 6.5mm cartridges. Despite the attempts by Winchester and Remington—with the .264 Winchester Magnum and 6.5 Remington Magnum, respectively—the bore diameter never really caught on here.

My first experience with the 6.5s was when a friend asked me to mount and zero a scope on his rifle—a 6.5×55 Swedish. He had sent along a couple of boxes of older Norma ammunition with 156-grain round nose softpoint ammo, and I was immediately intrigued by those long, lean bullets and lack of recoil. Looking into the ballistics, I couldn’t understand why the caliber wasn’t more popular. The .260 Remington was just a few years old at the time, and hadn’t really made huge waves yet, and the handful of .264 Winchester Magnums that were floating around were a rarity at best.

Fast forward fifteen years, and the 6.5 Creedmoor would be gaining a good head of steam, despite a relatively slow start. Garnering a following among the target crowd first, and ultimately among hunters, the Creedmoor seemed to bring the 6.5mm diameter to the masses, while the .260 Remington and 6.5-284 Norma just couldn’t achieve that level of popularity. Why would the Creedmoor gain acceptance, when we had such a similar level of performance in a cartridge released at the end of the 19th century? Let’s pit them against one another to find out.

The 6.5×55 Swedish is a rimless cartridge with a case head diameter slightly larger than the 7mm and 8mm Mausers (0.479-inch vs. 0.473-inch), with a 25-degree, 17½-minute shoulder, and a case length of 55mm (2.165 inches). With a cartridge overall length of 3.150 inches (or 80.0mm), the 6.5×55 can be crammed into a short-action receiver, but is best served by a long-action. Introduced as a military cartridge simultaneously by Norway and Sweden in the 1890s after a series of military trials, the 6.5x55mm cartridge remains a very popular cartridge among the Scandinavian countries, being used for game species as large as European moose. You may find several names for this cartridge, including 6.5x55SE (the European CIP designation), 6.5×55 SKAN (in Scandinavia) and 6.5×55 Swedish Mauser; the SAAMI-approved name for the cartridge is 6.5×55 Swedish. Depending on the brand of ammunition, the 6.5x55mm will drive a 140-grain bullet to a muzzle velocity ranging from 2,500 fps to as high as 2,735 fps. Most of the major manufacturers have a load or two for the Swede, though some have become seasonal or are made in limited runs. Lapua offers a 155-grain load at 2,559 fps and Federal loads their 156-grain Fusion at 2500 fps, for those who appreciate the advantage of heavier projectiles. There are a good number of rifles available in 6.5×55, including the Tikka T3 and Sako 85, and over the years the Remington 700, Winchester 70 and Ruger No. 1 have all been chambered for the Swede.

The 6.5 Creedmoor was developed by Hornady, and is the .30 T/C cartridge necked down to hold 6.5mm projectiles. Also a rimless cartridge, the Creedmoor uses a 30-degree shoulder for headspacing and a 1.920-inch case to allow longer bullets to be used in a standard short-action magazine. Developed as a long-range target cartridge, the high sectional density and ballistic coefficient of the 6.5mm bullets were certainly put to use with good effect, and though the Creedmoor didn’t exactly explode onto the scene, it became a buzzword by 2013 and 2014. Driving a 140-grain bullet to just over 2700 fps, the Creedmoor has all but knocked the .308 Winchester out of the spotlight among long range target shooters, and has developed a reputation as a sound hunting cartridge for game animals all the way up to elk and moose, though I feel there are better tools for the largest ungulates. The Creedmoor has been hailed by some as the “be-all-and-end-all” cartridge, capable of killing any game animal on earth, and well, that’s just not the truth. It is, undeniably, a great deer and antelope cartridge. It is perfectly suited for a short-action bolt rifle, as well as the AR-10 platform.

Almost all rifle manufacturers offer a gun chambered for 6.5 Creedmoor, even down to the lever-actions like the Henry Long Ranger. If you were looking for a rifle to do double duty as a hunting gun and a long range target rifle, the 6.5 Creedmoor is a perfectly sensible choice. Recoil is minimal, and that is also another of the Creedmoor’s appeal.

How do the two compare? Well, in deference to the older firearms, I feel the 6.5×55 Swedish suffers from the same fate as the 7×57 and 8×57 Mauser, in that much of the factory ammunition isn’t loaded to its full potential. When it is loaded properly—as in the Hornady Superformance line—it is fully the equal of the much more modern 6.5 Creedmoor. I feel that the 155- and 156-grain bullets, like the Lapua Mega and Norma Oryx, actually extend the versatility of the 6.5×55 Swedish, and can give it a slight advantage over the Creedmoor. Where the Creedmoor does have an advantage is in the sheer availability of the ammunition. There is a wide selection of hunting bullets, ranging from 120 to 143 grains, and of various construction methods. From the Hornady ELD-X to Federal’s Fusion and Terminal Ascent, to Nosler’s AccuBond and Barnes’ LRX, the hunter has plenty to choose from. Sadly, the same cannot be said for the 6.5×55 Swedish; the bullets are there, but the production numbers are not.

So with very similar velocities—the Creedmoor has a slight advantage—and comparable bullet weights, though the Swedish has some heavier offerings, who gets the nod? Were it not for the sheer availability of the Creedmoor rifles and ammunition, I would call this a draw; the performance is just too similar to say one is the more advantageous design. I actually prefer the 6.5×55 Swedish, primarily from a reloader’s point of view, as there is a bit more room in the case. But I’m pretty sure there isn’t a game animal which could ever tell the difference between the two cartridges. In this one, the Creedmoor—probably due to some excellent marketing on the part of Hornady—wins out; the wide selection of available factory ammo and premium hunting projectiles gives it the edge.

Looking for previous installments of our “Head to Head” series? Click here.