I wasn’t the first hunter who had been there. Even though I was miles from the nearest road, the glint of gray rock shining on the muddy creek bank told me at least one other hunter had walked this valley in the past 13,000 years. It was a stone point, carefully knapped to a razor’s edge when hunting gear meant the difference between life and death.

Searching for and collecting Native American artifacts is a popular hobby among folks who love the outdoors. It’s a great way to spend the off-season and will help to keep you in shape. Keeping your eyes on the ground while you’re hunting will often turn up evidence of past civilizations and people who lived and hunted the same ground thousands of years ago.

Getting Started

If searching for artifacts sounds interesting, artifact collector Les Hatton of Kentucky said some reading will help you become a better collector.

I always tell people to read through a good reference book or two to familiarize themselves with the types of artifacts that might be in their area — who made them and how old they may be,” he said. “One of the best out there is The Official Overstreet Indian Arrowheads Identification and Price Guide.”

Now on its 15th edition, the Overstreet guide is a hands-on reference to arrowhead types, manufacturing, grading, materials and values. The current edition contains 12,000 actual-size photographs covering hundreds of point types, and has information on how to grade, identify and catalog points. The guide covers points found throughout the United States, including Alaska.

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Where to Look

Travis Hood is on a constant search for artifacts around his Indiana home.

My favorite places to look are plowed fields, high ground around 200 yards from the outer bends of waterways, and along creeks and streams — both on the bottom and on the shore, especially if there are washed-out steep creek banks, he said. I’ve even had good luck artifact hunting in areas where pigs are pastured because their constant rooting often turns up points.

If I am in a new area, my rule of thumb is to look around and ask myself, ‘Where would I live if I were here thousands of years ago?’ I’d want nearby access to fresh water, but be high enough and far enough away that my camp wouldn’t wash away in a flood or have constant standing water on the ground. The neat part about finding a good spot where a village once stood is that you might find artifacts from a civilization as current as a thousand years ago and some from as old as 10,000 years ago just feet from each other. Man’s basic needs didn’t change that much over 15,000 years, and a good spot to live is a good spot to live.

Hood and Hatton said old fire pits, often still visible as dark rings of charcoal and carbon in otherwise light-colored soil, are excellent places to find points and other artifacts.

The campfire is where they spent their time and where they did most of their point knapping, Hood said.

What to Look For

You know you’re in a good spot if you start finding small flakes of flint scattered around, especially if flint isn’t common in the area.

Once I start noticing flint flakes, called debitage, I start looking for whole or partial points,” Hood said. “While nearly everyone generally calls any knapped projectile an ‘arrowhead,’ most of the stuff you find was probably something else. It could be an ax or celt, a digging hoe, a blade, scraping tool or even a drill. Sure, they made arrowheads, but before bows were commonly used, they made atlatl points and lots of other tools. Some of the earliest stone tools were crude stone blades from the Clovis culture — made by people that lived in the desert Southwest between 11,000 and 13,000 years ago.”

Hatton said aging points gets easier with experience, but referencing guide books will help you figure out who made it and when. You might think the more intricate and detailed the point, the more modern it is, but that isn’t always the case.

It’s interesting, Hood said. Points and tools like those from the Clovis period started out crude and on the large side. Over time, new techniques and experience allowed the tool makers to turn out finer and more intricate points. What’s fascinating to me is that the finest points come from the middle period of stone tool making. Up until around 8,000 to 10,000 years ago, points were crude. Then, from 8,000 up to about 2,000 years ago, they got increasingly finer and more advanced. Then, starting a couple of thousand years ago, they regressed into cruder, less finished points. Maybe they were mass producing these points by then and needed to turn out a more disposable, quickly made point or something.

Besides stone tools and points, you might also find whole or pieces of stone pottery or beads, as well as bone tools, jewelry, clay pipes and other remnants of everyday life. If you are lucky enough to find something like that, keep looking. You are probably near a village or long-term camping spot, and there will likely be more artifacts in the area.

You Found Something, Now What?

So you went out looking and found a point. Now what? Hatton recommended taking a bit of time to record some details, especially if it’s a whole tool or point, or possibly a really valuable artifact.

Snap a quick photo of the artifact on the ground before you pick it up,” he said. “Note where the artifact was found, how deep in the soil and the coordinates or at least a nearby street address. All of this information will be helpful for you to figure out when and by whom the artifact was made, and having as much historical information, known as provenance, with your find as possible might make it more valuable as a collectable.”

Plus, keeping information on find locations will act as a guide for future searches.

Cleaning and Storage

When you locate a point or other artifact, what do you do with it?

The first thing to do is leave it alone, Hatton said. You can use a soft brush or toothbrush to remove loose soil from the point, but don’t get too rough with it, and don’t scrub it clean with soap and water or any other solvents. When experts look at a point under a magnifying glass or microscope, they are looking for certain mineral or soil deposits that help to verify the age. If those deposits are gone, it gets a lot harder to certify that a point is the real thing.

Although avid collectors might have buckets full of partial, unfinished or broken points, Hatton said whole points or anything else that might be valuable need to be stored carefully.

When you toss a stone point into a bucket with other points, they beat against one another to the point that they can chip or break, destroying their value,” he said. “The best way to store them is in a flat display case that you can set on a shelf or hang on a wall, or in flat boxes with layers of paper or cloth between the points to prevent them from touching one another.

Some of these points can be extremely valuable. I’ve personally witnessed one sell for $45,000, and I know of another rare Clovis point right now that is valued at over $100,000. You might find something that is worth a lot of money to the right collector, so treat them gently until you can have them looked at by an expert if you think you have something that might be valuable. That’s another area where the reference books come in handy. By comparing size, shape, flaking style, material and notch methods from your point to the reference books, you can get a pretty good idea how much a point is worth and whether or not you should get it appraised.

Keep it Legal

Before you head out to find your own artifacts, Hood and Hatton recommend familiarizing yourself with state and federal laws that apply to artifact hunting. As a rule, private lands require only the permission of the landowner to collect artifacts. But depending on the state, there might be exceptions, such as burial sites, caves and even certain deep stone overhangs that might have been used as religious sites.

When it comes to federally owned lands, removal of artifacts is generally not allowed. The Archeological Resources Protection Act of 1979, which protects any item of archeological interest that is more than 100 years old, and Title 36 of the U.S. Code of Federal Regulations, which deals with theft or destruction of public property, state that anyone found digging or removing artifacts from publicly owned lands can face fines, jail time or both.

On your next hunt, glance down at the ground from time to time. Chances are good that the same wildlife trail you’re watching has been used for thousands of years. Perhaps another hunter sat in a nearby location, doing the same thing. Maybe he or she left behind a sign that they were there.

The easiest way to identify a tree is through their leaves, bark, fruits, and tree seed pods identification. While some have distinct leaf colors and shapes, others cannot easily be identified with the leaves, especially during certain parts of the year.

However, it is pretty easy to identify trees with their seeds, especially the ones with distinct seed pods. Some of the trees, like those in the bean family,9 have long pods that make it relatively easy to identify them.

Have you ever wondered which trees release those ‘helicopter’ seeds? This complete guide has everything you need to know.

A seed pod is a distinctive way for a tree to propagate, and nature has some very interesting varieties! By using the tree seed pods identification charts below, you’ll be able to pinpoint lots and lots of tree species.

75 Species of Trees With Seed Pods

We know how important trees are in slowing down and reversing climate change and so you might be thinking “How much carbon does a tree capture?” Did you know that some trees store more carbon than others? Learning these different species is more interesting than you think.

Most trees with seed pods are easy to identify because they classify the tree and let you know which botanic family it belongs to. There are so many trees with seed pods that are distributed worldwide.

Even though some grow in their native region, most of them have been spread worldwide. The growth of trees in an area highly depends on the conditions required for the tree to thrive.

For example, you will find most palm and mangrove trees along coastlines because that is where they find their conducive environment to thrive. The chart below is a comprehensive list of trees with seed pods of different kinds.

Identification Guide: Tree Seed Pods Identification

Sometimes, it helps to know what an entire tree or most parts look like. That way, you can automatically identify the tree with any part, including tree seed pods. The tree types and pictures below will give you a foundation on most tree types and what their seed pods look like.

How To Identify Tree Seed Pods: Identification Chart With Tree Seed Pod Identification Pictures

Tree TypeSize1. Maples1.18” to 2” (3 – 5 cm) long2. Catalpas8-20″ long and ¼-½” wide3. Southern Catalpa12-inch (30-cm) long4. Ash2” (5 cm) long5. Hickory2-5 cm (0.8-2.0 in) long and 1.5-3 cm (0.6-1.2 in) diameter

Tree TypeSize6. Chestnut10-30 cm long and 5-7 cm wide7. Sweet Gum1 1/4″ – 1 1/2″ in diameter8. Kentucky Coffee Tree5” to 10” (12 – 25 cm) long and up to 2” (5 cm) wide9. Eastern Redbud3.5 inches long, 0.5 inches wide10. Apples8 mm (0.3 inch)

Tree TypeSize11. Black Locust3 to 4 inches in length12. Northern Catalpa24” (60 cm) long13. Mimosa4” to 8” (1.2 – 2.4 cm) long and 1” (2.5 cm) wide14. Acacia10” (26 cm) long15. Honeylocust6-14″ long and 1-1½” across at maturity

Tree TypeSize16. Buckeye1-2” diameter17. Beech0.5” to 1” (1.12 – 2.5 cm) long18. Sycamore1” (2.5 cm) in diameter19. Silver Maple1.18” to 2” (3 – 5 cm) long20. Elm0.5” (1.22 cm) across

Tree TypeSize21. Cladrastis Kentukea2.5-4” long22. Carob Tree13 – 30 cm in length and about 2.5 cm wide23. Desert-Willow8 inch24. Basswood5 to 10 mm (0.2 to 0.4 in) in diameter25. Yellow Kowhai2.2 inches in length

Tree TypeSize26. Coral Tree12-inch- long27. Western Redbud1½ to 3½ inch long28. Blue Palo Verde1.5 to about 4 inches29. Purple Orchid Tree15 to 30 cm long30. Koa Tree6″ (15 cm) long and 1-1.5″ (2-4 cm) wide

Tree TypeSize31. Japanese Angelica4 mm in diameter32. Yellowwood Tree2½ to 4″ long33. Conifersbetween 1” and 6” (2.5 – 15 cm)34. Silver Birch1-1 1/2 inches long35. Catclaw Acacia3-5″ long

Tree TypeSize36. Screwbean Mesquite2-6″ (5-15 cm.) in length37. Persian Silk Tree4-8″ (10-20 cm.) long, ¾” (2 cm.)38. Royal Poinciana12” and 24” (30 – 60 cm) long39. Cape Wattleup to 10 cm in lengt40. Trumpet Treesabout 3″ (7.6 cm) long

Tree TypeSize41. Horse Chestnut1” to 2” (2.5 – 5 cm) in diameter42. Pine Tree0.78” to 23” (2 – 60 cm)43. Spruce Tree1” and 6” (2.5 – 15 cm)44. Fir Tree10” (25 cm)45. Jacaranda Tree3” (7.5 cm) across

Tree TypeSize46. Hornbeam1″ long47. Linden0.2” (0.5 cm) in diameter48. Tree of Heaven1-2″ long49. Common Hoptree2-2.5 cm (0.79-0.98 in) across50. Tulip Tree3” (7.5 cm) long

Tree TypeSize51. Tipu Tree50-60mm long52. Green Ash2” (5 cm) long53. Australian Black Bean Treeup to 20cm in length54. Lilac Tree¾ inch-long55. Southern Magnolia Tree1″-3″ in length

Tree TypeSize56. Sausage Treegrow up to 10 cm in diameter and 60 cm (2 feet) long57. Ludlow’s Tree Peony4¾-7 × 2-3⅓ cm58. Orchid Tree6-9″ long59. Red Maple Tree¾ to 1 inch60. Golden Rain Tree1¼- 2½ inches long

Tree TypeSize61. Cacao Treelength up to 35 cm (14″) and a width at the centre of 12 cm (4.7″)62. Eucalyptus Camaldulensis Tree2-5 mm (0.079-0.197 in) long and 4-10 mm (0.16-0.39 in) wide on a pedicel 3-12 mm (0.12-0.47 in) long63. Kalumpang Sarawak Treeabout 10 centimeters long64. Pandanus Treea diameter of 4-20 cm (1.6-7.9″)65. Korean Spindleberry1/2” across

Tree TypeSize66. Delonix Regia30 – 75 cm long, 5 – 8 cm wide67. Koelreuteria Paniculata3-6 cm long and 2-4 cm broad68. Ceiba Pentandra15 cm (6 in)69. Albizia Lebbeck Tree12 – 35 cm long70. Joshua Tree2.5-2″ long

Tree TypeSize71. Guanacaste Tree3 – 4 1/2″ long72. Australian Tree Hakea4-5 cm in diameter on average73. Mangrove Tree6″ (15 cm)74. Kapok Tree15 cm (6″) long75. Paulownia Tomentosa Foxglove Tree3-4 centimeters (1+1⁄8-1+5⁄8 in) long

There are advantages and disadvantages to having a tree. Some would be excited to know about the pros and cons of redbud trees. Despite the limited lifespan of these lovely, vibrantly colored trees, they have greatly benefited us and the environment. Spend some time learning about these trees, and prepare to have your mind blown by what you discover.

Popular Types of Trees With Seed Pods

Not all the trees on the list above are common and easy to come across in residential areas. However, you could come across some of them in forests or deserts. Below is a list of the most commonly planted seed pod trees. You have probably come across most of the trees on this list.

Popular Tree TypeSeed Pod DescriptionSizeMaple TreeWing-shaped, papery – helicopters, samaras3 – 5cm longOak TreeCup-shaped cupule, green-brown – acorn1-6 cmPalm TreeBall-likeDepends on the speciesCatalpa TreeCylindrical-shaped, cigar-like, green, dark brown when mature30 – 60 cmLocust TreeSpirally twisted, flat, dark brown, large, with oval seeds10 – 20 cm longAmerican Elm TreeFlat, oval-shaped, disc-like, papery, light green1.22 cm acrossAsh TreePaddle-shaped, oval, large, brown, papery5 cm longBeech TreeAngular-shaped, three sides, brown, hard shell with spiky burs- cupules1.12 – 2.5 cm long

Maple Tree Seed Pods Identification

Maple trees come in different species. They are easily identifiable by their bark, leaves, or seed pods. However, the easiest way is through the papery wing-shaped seed pods, often called samaras.

These samaras are joined at the center, and once they detach from the tree, they have a unique whirling motion. Maple seed pods will therefore be called helicopters, whirligigs, and whirlers. The seed pods grow between 1.18 and 2 inches long.

Once the seed pods have detached from the tree, the whirling action takes them far away from the tree, dispersing the seeds in different places. Maple trees have distinctive features,6 including leaves with pointed lobes. The bark has a gray-brown or reddish-brown color that you cannot miss.

Another identifying feature of the maple tree species is that they grow tall, some growing up to 150ft. Some popular maple tree species are the Red Maple, Silver Maple, and Japanese Maple.

All these trees have different features in color and growing conditions, but they all have samaras with helicopter action. Some grow along river banks, and others can survive pretty well in relatively dry areas. Maple seeds are also edible; the smaller the seed, the sweeter it is. The sizes differ in different species.

Oak Tree Seed Pods Identification (Oak Tree Seeds With Pods)

The fruit of an oak tree is called an oak nut or acorn. It has a tough protective shell that looks like a cup and has a cap. It is, therefore, quite easy to identify oak trees through the cupules or seed pods.

Various oak tree species have distinctive acorns. The acorns differ in shape and size depending on the oak tree species. Some have a smooth cap, others a scaly one, and others have hair.

It also differs in shape; some are oval, while others are ball-shaped. The common colors in mature acorns among the oak tree species are black, red, and brown. However, all the acorns will be green before maturity.

The seed pods have two seeds inside, varying in size from small to large. Small acorns are about 0.5 inches, while the bigger ones can go up to 3 inches in diameter. Oaknuts are edible, with the sweetest ones being from Pin Oak, Cork Oak, and Burr Oak.

However, tanning in acorns is toxic to human beings. It also makes raw oak nuts bitter and untasty. The best way to remove the tanning is to soak the nuts in water and drain them until it is clear.

Identification: Palm Tree Seed Pods

One of the trees that you may find almost everywhere is a palm tree. Ever wonder how many types of palm trees are there?

Palm trees belong to the Arecaceae family and have over 2600 species. The trees grow in warm countries near tropical beaches. However, some species can also grow indoors in cold or temperate climates.

The most common palm tree species are the Pygmy date palm and the coconut palm, which are common along coastlines. There is also the Christmas palm tree and Mediterranean dwarf palm, among others.

It is not easy to miss a palm tree because of its unique characteristics. Every part of the tree can be used to identify it, including the trunk and the seed pods. Palm trees have feather-like, fan-shaped leaves that are long and evergreen.

The trunk is also a good identifier as it has fibers and grows extremely tall in some species. Date palms will grow to about 75ft, while coconut palms can reach 100ft. There are also dwarf palm trees that grow up to 9ft, making it easy to have them as houseplants.

The tallest palm trees are about 200ft, equivalent to a 25-story building. One palm tree species with easily identifiable seed pods is the coconut tree. It has a huge green or yellow fruit that turns into a hard brown seed when it matures. It also has spiky hairs on it and can be quite heavy.

Related Reading: What Are Carbon Offsetting Companies and How To Find the Best One?

Catalpa Tree Seed Pods

Catalpa seeds have long seed pods that dangle from the tree and are very easy to identify. The tree has trumpet-shaped blooms that are white or yellow in color, and the leaves are heart-shaped. These flowers are fragrant, and the tree bark is usually brown or greyish in color.

The Northern Catalpa and the Southern Catalpa are the most common species of the catalpa trees.10 The seed pods appear on the trees in fall and could go to Winter and Spring. However, they are very distinctive because of their slender and long features.

The trees grow very fast and do well in warm temperate places. The trees also live long and could grow up to 50ft above the ground. It has a rounded canopy that spreads out, making the tree perfect for backyards as an ornamental shade tree.

It is easy to distinguish between Northern and Southern catalpas through the seed pods. While the Northern ones grow up to 24 inches long, the others only grow to 12 inches. The pods are green but eventually turn brown and split open, exposing winged seeds.

The seeds are then carried by the wind and dispersed all over. While the catalpa seeds are not toxic to human beings, they lack nutritional content or good taste. Therefore, people do not eat them even if they look like beans.

The shape and structure of the seed pods have earned the tree names like cigar tree, smoking bean tree, and Indian cigar tree. Each node on the catalpa tree has three leaves with a smooth margin and a heart shape. It is a perfect tree to plant in residential gardens.

Locust Tree Seed Pods (Black Locust Tree Seeds and Honey Locust Tree Seed Pods)

Locust trees have many identifiable features ranging from the trunk, flowers, leaves, and spirally twisted seed pods. The tree has white flowers that dangle in clusters and can grow up to 100ft.

Its trunk has thorns, and the leaves are large and pinnate. Locust trees grow very fast and belong to the Fabaceae family. The two most common types of plants are the Honey locust and Black locust trees.7

Even though most of the locust tree species are full of long and sharp thorns, some species are thornless. Therefore, the best way to identify locust trees is through the long and distinct seed pods that hang from the tree.

The seed pods on locust trees can grow up to 20 cm long and have oval seeds inside. It is important to note that different locust tree species have different seeds. While some are edible, and even animals enjoy eating them, others have very toxic compounds.

Locust trees also produce highly durable hardwood that can be used to make furniture and small boats. The trees are also excellent for shade and look beautiful when the flowers bloom in the fall.

American Elm Tree Seeds With Pods (Elm Tree Seed Pods)

Elm trees are popular in residential areas because of their wide canopy that provides shade and the wood it produces. The trees have rot-resistant wood that is flexible but does not split. It is, therefore, excellent for making musical instruments and bows.

While it has many identifiable features, the elm tree’s best feature to use when trying to identify the tree is its seed pods. They have samaras, which in this case have a light papery casing and are round and small.

They grow in clusters and have a light green color that makes them easy to identify. Once the samaras have matured, a single seed forms inside and detaches from the tree in Spring. The tree’s bark is also quite distinct, with furrows and a grayish-brown color.

The trunk and the branches will have a lace-like texture that makes them easy to identify. There are various species of elm trees, with the most common ones being the American, Florida, and Chinese elm trees.

The Chinese elm has a slightly different bark from the rest, but it also has papery samaras. Therefore, the best way to identify elm trees is through the seed pods’ structure and shape.

Ash Tree Seeds With Pods (Ash Tree Seed Pods)

Ash tree seed pods are flat,8 oval, and papery, making it very easy to identify the trees. They look like dried leaves as they hang from the tree branches. They can grow up to 3 inches tall, and the fruit matures in the fall.

The ash tree seed pods are also called samaras. The samaras grow on female trees only because it is the one that produces fruit. Due to the fallen samaras’ mess on the ground, most people prefer to plant male ash trees in their backyards.

The tree has compound leaves with five pairs of leaflets on each one. The leaflets are pointed, and each leaf has a terminal leaflet. The standard height of ash trees is between 60 and 80ft. The bark is grayish-brown in color, and the leaves are about 12 inches long.

The tree seed pods identification on ash trees is made easy by the brown color of the matured seed pods. Before maturity, the pods are green and easy to recognize because of their length. Ash trees come in various species like the Green and White Ash trees. While each has its characteristics, both species have the same types of seed pods on their female trees.

Beech Tree Seeds With Pods

Beech trees are colorful shade trees that form a round, dense crown with branches and leaves. They have beechnuts that make the tree easily identifiable. The flowers are in clusters and start green-yellow in color. However, they later turn into beautiful Autumn shades of yellow, golden brown, and range.

The tree has 13 species, the most common being European and American beech trees. The trees are resistant to diseases and pests, which makes them excellent trees for huge landscapes.

The leaves have an elliptical shape and look glossy with a green color when young. They grow up to 6 by 4 inches. You can see a serrated look on the leaf if you sift through it. The beautiful bright colors on the tree are one of the most direct beech tree identification.

On the other hand, the fruit has a brown color with a shell with three sides and spikes all over it. It is an easy seed pod to identify. Beech trees have a dense crown, which is why it needs enough room to grow. The trees can also grow up to 80 ft.

Tree Seed Pods Identification Florida: Popular Types of Tree Seeds in Florida

Florida has a good climate that makes it possible to have various tree species throughout the landscapes.11 You will find different seed pod trees within Florida. Some trees are planted in backyards, and others in forests and landscapes.

Some of the seed pod trees you will likely find in Florida are palm trees, oak trees, magnolia, and maple trees. All these trees are identifiable through their distinctive seed pods. While some have samaras, others have cupules.

The trees from the Fabaceae family will have long seed pods with multiple seeds inside and split open to disperse. Additionally, some trees in Florida have edible fruits, and others have toxins.

When living in Florida, it is important to know which seed pods belong to which tree. That helps you know which trees will do well in your backyard and which will likely give you much work to maintain.

The full chart above on the various types of seed pod trees and the explanations on popular trees will help you identify tree seed pods in Florida. You can plant a tree with full knowledge of what to expect when the fruit matures.

Trees With Seed Pods in Colorado

The most common tree with seed pods in Colorado is the catalpa tree. It has bean-like pods that have winged seeds inside. It is, therefore, easy for the wind to disperse the seeds, which is why Colorado has many catalpa trees in different locations.

Aside from the Western Catalpa, Colorado has other seed pod trees like Golden Rain, Cottonwood, Blue Spruce, Oaks, and Fir. All these trees have distinct seed pods that distinguish one tree from the other.

Nowadays, more people are taking an active role in protecting the environment. They may be searching for tree seed pods because they are concerned about how many trees cut down each year and want to learn how tree planting carbon offset may help.

Understanding these seed pods is the first step; the next is learning how to grow them. People are making sure that what they are planting endures and fulfills its function – to beautify and fight climate change.

It is crucial to be aware of the benefits of planting trees if you want to achieve environmental sustainability. Remember that internal transformation must precede external change. By using an eco footprint calculator, you should be able to pinpoint the acts that had an adverse influence on the environment and make decisions to lessen those effects.

Related Reading: How Many Trees Are in the World?

With the help of this guide, you will be able to identify different types of trees by looking at their pods and other features like the leaves, bark, and color. Colorado provides an excellent climate for all these different tree species to thrive.

Most tree species are identifiable through leaves, flowers, bark, and trunk. However, some require more than that to know which tree it is.

This tree seed pods identification chart can help you identify trees and protect them to help the planet.

Frequently Ask Questions About Tree Seed Pods Identification

Black trumpet mushrooms, also known as the horn of plenty or horn of death. Don’t let the name confuse you though-these are one of the best wild mushrooms to harvest, hunt and cook, and are valued around the world as a gourmet ingredient and choice edible mushroom.

In this post I’m going to share with you everything I know about hunting, identifying, harvesting and cooking these mushrooms, along with some of my favorite recipes for black trumpets at the end.

For reference, I’m in the Midwest, so most of what I discuss here for hunting will refer to Craterellus fallax as it’s the most common species near me. Older field guides may use the name Craterellus cornucopiodes, now seen as a European species.

Where to Find Black Trumpet Mushrooms

In mid-summer, typically early July through October, (I’ve picked them as late as November) I will start to check my patches. Where do black trumpets grow? In my area, around white and red oak trees. One species (Craterellus caeruleofuscus) grows with pines, but isn’t as widely available.

One of the best parts about these mushrooms is the sheer volume you can find, when, and if you find the right kind of patch. The harvests will vary from year to year depending on seasonal conditions, but there will usually be some.

Two friends of mine have near-legendary patches in Minnesota, that, on a good year, with an extra hand or two, you could pick 30, 40lbs or more. As trumpets are very light weight compared to others, that kind of quantity is massive.

Wet and decaying areas

Often when you’re hunting these I look for moist, shady areas. They may be close to a small source of water or a wet/swampy area where there’s decaying and dead wood. Golden chanterelles, by comparison may occasionally be nearby, but I don’t see them as much in wet areas as I do trumpets.

At least to me, black trumpets seem to operate in two ways: mycorrhizal and saprobic, meaning that they grow both in harmony with certain trees, and will seem to live off of decaying matter. Contrastingly, golden chanterelles are only mycorrhizal.

Most of the time with mushrooms from my experience, they’ll be one or the other but not both, which makes trumpets extra special.

A good trick to remember when you’re searching for new patches is that trumpets like to be often in the same areas as some of their other chanterelle cousins, especially the yellowfoot chanterelle which is much easier to spot from a distance as it isn’t black.

If you see one of the orange mushrooms pictured above, or golden chanterelles, it’s a good indication you’re on the right track.

Sphagnum moss

It isn’t true everywhere, but trumpets seem to have an affinity for sphagnum moss. When I’m in a forest with red or white oaks, and I start seeing sphagnum moss during the summer, I make sure to keep my eyes open for trumpets.

More often than not, when I see moss and start looking closely, and walking slowly, I’ll find some.

Black Trumpet Mushroom Identification

Found across North America, black trumpets are one of the easiest wild mushrooms to identify, with nearly no real look-a-likes. Your biggest challenge will be finding a good patch at the right time.

Black trumpets

• Have a whitish to creamy spore print.
• Have an unique aroma I describe as dark and intensely sweet aroma of apricots that are nearly overripe. Golden chanterelles, by comparison, smell like fresh apricots.
• Are mostly black, or shades of grey, but one species is nearly blue (see below) and white, albino mutations are also possible.
• Often grow clustered, with a shape like a horn or funnel.
• Do not have gills, but can have false gills. They may have veins that are difficult to see on the outside (called the spore-bearing surface or hymenium) or the veins may be more pronounced with some specimens-see below.

Different Species

There’s more than one species to learn about and enjoy, each one with slightly different characteristics. Two I’ve found are craterellus foetidus and craterellus cinereus, which some may call black chanterelles, but there’s others too.

No matter what kinds grow near you, one thing’s for certain: if it’s a true black trumpet it’s edible and delicious, and knowing the exact species is purely academic. If you’re like me though, the more you learn about wild mushrooms, the more you’ll want to know the exact types your finding.

Look Alikes

Some consider devil’s urn (Urnula craterium) a trumpet look alike, but they’re more cup-shaped and appear in the spring. They’re edible, but don’t taste very good.

Cleaning Black Trumpet Mushrooms

Cleaning starts in the field. Some people just pull the mushrooms out of the ground and put them in a basket-don’t do that. To avoid dirty mushrooms that can ruin your food with grit, I pull them from the ground, cut the end off, along with any dirt, then put them in the basket.

If I’m going to a patch where I expect to harvest lots of mushrooms, I like to bring a scissors since I can just bend down and snip-snip-snip, leaving the dirty bottoms behind and keeping all the mushrooms in my bag clean.

If my trumpets are very clean, I just open them up, leaving them in one piece, and give them a brush with a mushroom or pastry brush.

One of the best things about these mushrooms is that they’re often very clean, and may not need any additional trimming after they’re cut from the field, if you pick clean and carefully.

If my trumpets are a dirty or it’s rained recently, I slice them in half lengthwise and then give them a gentle dip in some cool water, working quickly so that they don’t absorb too much liquid.

After you wash them, just set them on some paper or cloth towels to air dry a bit and shed any water that may be sticking to them. I describe this a bit in the video below.

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How to Cook Black Trumpet Mushrooms

Black trumpet mushrooms have one of the most potent flavors of all wild mushrooms, especially when fresh.

They may be fragile or small, but they pack a punch. It’s hard to describe exactly what black trumpets taste like besides saying they’re delicious, but the flavor is a sort of a rich, earthy, oddly sweet and fruity taste that will remind you of fresh apricots and ripe stone fruit, with a bitter note at the end. It’s a delicious, unique taste.

One of the best things about these is their versatility. If you’ve just come back from a long hunt, there’s nothing wrong with just tossing some mushrooms in a pan with butter.

But if you have more time, you can make all kinds of things, limited only by your time and imagination. Here’s a few things I think are helpful.

Quick tips

• As they’re hollow, trumpets cook very fast-so don’t overcook them.
• A large amount will wilt down to a fraction of it’s size in the pan.
• Trumpets will turn other foods they come into contact with black or grey if the mushrooms are fresh.
• Another name for them is poor man’s truffle. Finely chop them as a (visual) substitute for black truffles.
• With a sweet aroma and tender texture, these can work in sweet and savory dishes, such as candying.
• Black trumpets can be eaten raw in small amounts as a garnish.

Like most mushrooms, these marry wonderfully with cream. Like other chanterelles, I would encourage you to cook these by themselves first, and keep things simple as their flavor can be overwhelmed by strong flavors like excessive garlic, smoked food, spices, and spicy/hot seasonings.

Bitterness

Use trumpets with a light hand at first as they can be bitter if you use too many in a dish. The bitterness will concentrate itself, so be careful when making reduction-type sauces, for example: purees, or putting too many in a soup.

The bitterness is a bit of an acquired tastes, and most mushroom hunters grow to like and crave it to some extent. It’s not unpleasant, but some sensitive people may not like it.

How to Dry Black Trumpet Mushrooms

There’s a few different ways you can preserve trumpets, but drying is by far the best. Luckily, as black trumpets are hollow, they dry like a dream, and are one of the best mushrooms for drying and using in the off season as they don’t get tough. To dry the mushrooms, I look over them for debris, then put in a dehydrator at 120-145F until cracker dry, typically overnight.

Occasionally I’ve left mushrooms spread out on cookie sheets with a ceiling fan blowing on them and found them naturally dehydrated after a day or two-something you can’t do with golden chanterelles.

Once they’re cracker dry, I store the mushrooms in a sealed glass container or mason jar. For cooking, rehydrate the mushrooms by covering with warm liquid, stock, or alcohol. Remove the mushrooms, strain the liquid for debris, adding the mushrooms back to their liquid for whatever recipe you’re making, or simply frying them up and discarding the liquid if you don’t need it.

Black Trumpet Mushroom Recipes

Here’s some of my favorite black trumpet recipes, or places where they can be substituted. One of the most unique things about these mushrooms is that they can work in savory as well as some sweet applications, so find a few of both below.

• Black Trumpet Pasta
• Candied Trumpets
• Sweet Mushroom Jam
• Jacques Chibois’s Carbonara of Chanterelles and Black Trumpets
• Baked Fish with Trumpet Crust
• Rack of Lamb or Venison with Dried Trumpet Crust
• Black Trumpet Coulis
• Rabbit Braised In Milk, with Trumpets And Carrots

More Trumpet Recipes

More

35 Essential Wild Mushrooms Every Forager Should Know

References

David Arora: Wild Mushrooms Demystified

MushroomExpert.com: Craterellus Fallax

Tincturing is the use of alcohol to remove and ultimately preserve the medicinal compounds found in an herb or mushroom. Since chaga has both water- and alcohol-soluble compounds, a proper extraction will include both methods, called a “double extraction.” Adopted from Mushrooms for Health: Medicinal Secrets of Northeastern Fungi by Greg Marley.

Ingredients:

• Dried chaga, chopped or ground as finely as possible
• Grain alcohol (ethanol) or vodka (100 proof or higher)
• Spring water or distilled water

Equipment:

• Stainless steel or enameled cooking pot or a slow cooker (e.g. Crock pot)
• Cheesecloth
• Glass jars with clean, tight lids
• Liquid measuring cup with clearly marked graduations
• Chef’s thermometer with probe – optional

Step 1: Alcohol Extraction

Dried chaga should be crushed or otherwise reduced into the smallest pieces possible, using a hammer, mortar/pestle, or meat grinder. The resultant dry material should be placed in a glass jar and covered completely with alcohol, capped, and placed in a dark space away from direct sunlight. Shake or stir the material every few days, adding alcohol as needed to keep the chaga covered. After 2 to 4 weeks strain the mixture through several layers of cheesecloth and keep both the alcohol portion (tincture) and solid portion (marc).

Step 2: Hot-Water Decoction

Place the marc portion in a pot or slow cooker and cover with just enough water to submerge it. Cook uncovered for two or more hours at just below boiling, adding water as necessary while the mixture reduces. Cool and strain the resulting marc, keeping the liquid portion (decoction).

Step 3: Mixing the Finished Tincture

Measure the volume of your liquid extracts (both the alcohol tincture and decoction). The final tincture product should be at least 25 percent alcohol for proper preservation, so knowing the proof used in the initial alcohol tincture prep is important. For example, if you used 100 proof vodka (which is 50 percent alcohol) and ended up with 12 ounces of tincture, half of that volume is pure alcohol (or 6 ounces). Therefore, the finished tincture in this instance would be 24 ounces; 6 ounces of alcohol, 6 ounces of water (from the initial alcohol tincture) and 12 ounces of decoction. Calculating the alcohol to water ratio needed for your final product is easiest if using pure liquor but can become confusing if using less concentrated alcohols. Keep the following equation in mind:

A + B + C = 4A

Where:

A = Volume of pure alcohol (Initial alcohol tincture volume X percent concentration of alcohol used)

B = Volume of water in initial alcohol tincture (Initial alcohol tincture volume – A)

C = Volume of decoction

4A = the maximum volume of the finished tincture resulting from the addition of the correct volume of decoction

As an example, if you began with 190 proof liquor resulting in 12 ounces of initial alcohol tincture volume, the mixture would be 95% alcohol, and your equation for determining the amount of decoction to add for the final product would be:

(12 x .95) + (12 – 11) + C = 4A, or

11 oz + 1 oz + C = 44 oz, solving for C gives us 32 oz.

Keep in mind when calculating the volume of total alcohol and have to round off the result, round down. In this instance the final amount of tincture is 44 oz, therefore requiring 32 oz of decoction be added to the 12 ounces of initial alcohol tincture volume, giving us the proper 75 percent water / 25 percent alcohol ratio.

Combine the correct amounts of initial alcohol tincture and decoction. Stir or gently shake the mixture prior to dividing it up into smaller containers. Store in a dark space. Tinctures will last for several years if properly made and stored.

Quick Answers – Are These The Best Survival Backpacks?

#1 Best For Alpine Adventures – Black Diamond Jet Force Pro Avalanche Pack

#2 Best Army Style Survival Pack – 5.11 Tactical Rush Military Pack

#3 Best Big Survival Pack – WintMing 70L Camping Pack

#4 Best Hiking & Survival Pack – Osprey Stratos 36

#5 Survival Backpack For Long Weekends – Condor 3 Day Assault Pack

#6 Best Survival Backpacking Pack – Gregory Zulu 40

#7 Coolest Survival Bag – Kodiak Sitka Leather Messenger

Unfortunately, surviving in the wilderness is not just about a backpack. Bags can cart in plenty of dehydrated meals, but no pack can catch dinner for you. While these bags provide the customisable storage and carrying options to help you get out there, you need to have some survival skills to make it through the night.

Ordering a survival backpack and setting off on mad adventures without due preparation is likely to be a one-way ticket to giardia rather than paradise. Ease your way into the backcountry by making several quick-strike missions that allow you to gauge your readiness and prepare a list of essentials.

Packing up your backpack with the right gear is just as important as getting the correct nylon container. The longer you need to survive off of just the equipment on your shoulders, the more essential it is to get it right.

Stick around after our in-depth look at the best survival backpacks and come along for the ride as we explore some of the best gadgets and lightweight survival gear to fill up your bag with.

Backcountry, behind enemy lines, or on the Bangkok skyline, these powerhouses are in too deep to turn back now. Take your adventure to the next level or prep for anything with the best survival backpacks in the industry.

Each of these bags brings thoughtful design and reinforced materials to every corner and excels in one particular niche better than the competition. Choose your own adventure with the perfect bag for your particular wilderness style.

#1 Best For Alpine Adventures – Black Diamond Jet Force Pro Avalanche Pack

It is highly unlikely the apocalypse is right around the corner, but there are over 100,000 avalanches in the U.S. alone, every single winter. If you plan on spending serious time on snow-covered mountains or anywhere the weather can turn south fast, you need to prep with the mentality that it’s only a matter of time before rocks or snowfall will start tumbling down.

Spending less time in the lift line furthers your need for fundamental avalanche protections. Featuring a battery-powered electric fan that expands in one pull across your body, this beast can supply four airbags before it needs a recharge. The battery system means no unwieldy Co2 cartridges or single-use waste. The only thing this Alpine survivalist is missing is a jet pack.

This high tech backpack can save your life and stow it all, with models that fit between 10-35 litres of lifesaving equipment and a few yummy snacks. A modular booster system allows you to have access to all three different sizes depending on how long you plan on getting out there today.

#2 Best Army Style Survival Pack – 5.11 Tactical Rush24 Military Pack

The most iconic military style day pack on the market has pages full of copycats for many great reasons. The Rush24 means this pack can fit everything you need for 24 hours of survival rain, sleet, snow or shine in a muted exterior that’s tough as nails. Inside, the bag uses a half-zip to open up 37 litres of storage with great organisational mesh and full-on pockets.

When it ships to your front doorstep, the rough rider’s backpack will have about 14 different small orange flags that point out where this bag goes above and beyond the call of duty. Pouches and quick-access points are hidden across the exterior, and comfy shoulder straps help carry a heavy load.

The straps running across the outside of this survivalist are a carabiner away from hauling oversized sleeping pads, ropes, or anything else you want to bring without cramming.

#3 Best Big Survival Pack – WintMing 70L Camping Pack

At an incredibly affordable price, you can get your hands on 70 litres of camouflage storage by tomorrow and get into the woods before the end of the week. All this storage space brings more than enough room for staying deep into the woods for a week, or practically infinitely, if you find a water source.

You can collapse the bottom section to bring the storage down to 50 litres from 70, but this will be a heavy pack no matter what you fill it with. I wouldn’t recommend walking serious mileage with this thing fully kitted up, but whenever you do get to camp for the night, you’ll have all you need on your shoulders.

#4 Best Hiking & Survival Pack – Osprey Stratos 36

If we had to pick one pack to rule them all, it might be this lightweight Osprey option. For everything from weekend hikes to carry-on travel, this bag sits at a unique juncture that will help you fly through obstacles like a fast train.

At a mere 36 Liters, it may be slightly smaller than what you had in mind for surviving the apocalypse. Still, this ingenious bag can hold well above its weight. A hydration reservoir and rain cover give the pack protections usually reserved for more extensive hiking options, and a comfortable hip belt finished off the job.

Unlike other slim hiking backpacks, the awesome backpack makers at Osprey wasn’t afraid of a few extra grams and kept plenty of weight distributing comforts in this bag’s back. You should always plan for a bit of adaptability, so what better place to start than the most versatile bag in the business.

#5 Survival Backpack For Long Weekends – Condor 3 Day Assault Pack

Many backpacks can make backcountry survival more manageable, but few are built with surviving in mind more than this impressive kit. Condor has been on the frontlines of hardcore camping and survival equipment of all sorts, and no other product on their line is more recognisable than this epic assault pack.

Condor optimised the survival backpack for three-day trips. With upwards of 50 litres of storage spread across seven compartments, you can stretch out your stay if you pack smart. Once the main compartments are filled up, or for any oversized gear that still needs hauling, take advantage of the nylon straps that wrap around the pack’s exterior to lug some extras.

As long as you find shelter before the showers, this stable bag will bring everything you need to stay out in the woods a while longer.

#6 Best Survival Backpacking Pack – Gregory Zulu 40

Right on the edge of glory sits this 40 litre legend. 40 litres is an incredibly happy medium in the backpack spectrum, bringing more than enough storage for a day or weekend trip without going overboard.

The Zulu series has storage capacities on all sides of the scale. Unless you plan to get out deep into the woods and stay in one place for a long time, anything more significant than this bag will start weighing you down.

Couple that perfect size bag with loads of high-quality build materials and a solid weatherproofing system, et voila; you’ve got a survival bag that can handle serious mileage.

#7 Coolest Survival Bag – Kodiak Sitka Leather Messenger

Hollywood has taken plenty of stabs at survival looks and post-apocalyptic gear hauling. This leather messenger would fit nicely on Jones’ shoulder in the temple of doom or wandering the streets of zombie-infested New York to bring your next survival mission a signature style.

No, this is not a severe survival option. Anyone planning on walking serious mileage or wandering far out of cell service with a home in the bag should probably bring more than this top-grain leather sidebag option. That doesn’t mean this well-built satchel is a slouch. Every inch of this bag is reinforced and built out of some of the most durable brass and natural materials.

As part of a complete arsenal or flung over your shoulder on your next two-wheeled adventure, this bag has a real place in your arsenal without providing high tech storage some other survival bags bring to the table.

Now that you’ve found a great survival partner, it’s time to fill ‘er up. Your bag will only get you as far as the gear inside of it, so let’s look at a few absolutely critical aspects of any prepper’s checklist.

This gear, plus the right survival backpack, will elevate you from surviving to thriving.

For each piece of gear, just a short write up about what it is, why you need it, and why this is the best one you can buy

Black Diamond Twilight Bivy

This bivvy bag may just be the best lightweight shelter on the planet. Whether you plan on packing the farm or keeping the weight down, the Twilight has earned a place on your packing list. Every trip into the woods can wind up an overnighter. At way less than a pound, this bivvy provides excellent protection and should be taken along on every walk into the woods.

Thanks to its four seasons of weather protection, heavy flooring reinforcements, and breathable mesh panel, this bivvy can be employed in a hurry and offers an excellent place for shut-eye no matter where you wind up for the night.

Leatherman P4 Multi-Tool

The closest thing to hauling along your toolshed, this multi-tool can set up camp, help fix ripped tarpaulin, gut a fish, and gather firewood, all while fitting in the palm of your hands. 21 tools are easily accessible thanks to the magnetic technology that lifts this multi-tool above the competition.

Grayl Geopress

Wilderness survival is all fun and games until you run out of water. Luckily, filters like this Geopress means as long as you can get to a water source, you can whet your lips around 24 ounces of purified water in eight seconds.

That speed makes the Geopress the fastest in the industry at cleaning up dirty taps and flowing rivers. The press goes above and beyond by filtering out heavy metals, microplastics, and usually uncovered water pollutants.

Medical Kit

Whether heading out of the house for an hour or never coming back, please find room for a first aid kit. While bringing along any combination of Neosporin and bandaids is better than nothing, this all-encompassing medkit has 82 different pieces to address injuries and nasty surprises while on the road.

The kit comes stacked with an impressive assortment of medical equipment and found space for other survival essentials. Beyond first aid, this medkit provides an emergency blanket, tactical knife, and fire starter tools that will get you through a bad night in the woods.

I wouldn’t want to come across any of these survival backpacks in a dark alley. Built to last and full of scrappy features, every bag on our list will give you a fighting chance. All you have to do is pair up the particular blend of characteristics that best pushes you forward, sharpen up your cartography skills, and get out there.

The survival backpacks we looked at today are only part of the puzzle. When surviving without a roof over your head, the only thing you can expect is the unexpected. Over-prepping yourself for whatever you’re getting into and a foolproof list of emergency plans if shit hits the fan are other essential ingredients in wilderness survival.

Prepping begins with your Nylon knapsack. These survival backpacks all pack the necessary space and intelligent upgrades to set you on a path toward success.

And for transparency’s sake, please know that some of the links in our content are affiliate links. That means that if you book your accommodation, buy your gear, or sort your insurance through our link, we earn a small commission (at no extra cost to you). That said, we only link to the gear we trust and never recommend services we don’t believe are up to scratch. Again, thank you!

Although oftentimes overshadowed by their larger-mouthed relatives, the smallmouth bass is easily one of the most popular freshwater game fish in North America. Their expansive range, accessibility, and willingness to take a variety of baits, lures, and flies make them a great target for sportsmen of all levels.

And while they don’t grow as big as largemouths, pound-for-pound, smallmouth bass are every bit as strong and aggressive.

Couple these facts with their beautifully mottled complexion, and it’s no wonder why anglers have pursued smallmouth bass for centuries.

So without further ado, here’s 10 of the biggest smallmouth bass ever recorded:

All-Tackle: David Hayes – 11 pounds, 15 ounces

Dale Hollow Reservoir, Tennessee

David Hayes’ celebrated 5.41 kg (11 pounds, 15 ounces) All-Tackle world record smallmouth bass has seen its share of controversy over the years.

Hayes caught his record fish on July 9, 1955 while trolling a lure in Dale Hollow Reservoir, Tennessee, without a doubt the most famed body of water for producing massive smallmouth bass.

In fact, the three heaviest smallmouth ever recorded have come from Dale Hallow!

Hayes’ catch held the All-Tackle title for 41 years, despite swirling rumors throughout the angling community denouncing his catch. These rumors, coupled with an affidavit stating that the dock owner added lead weight to the catch (unbeknownst to Hayes), resulted in the temporary ousting of Hayes’ record.

During this time, John Gorman’s held the All-Tackle title with his 10 pound, 14 ounce smallmouth he caught on April 24, 1969 while fishing the same location (Dale Hollow Reservoir, Tennessee).

However, nine years later, it was proven through multiple polygraph tests that the sworn affidavit that denounced the legitimacy of Hayes’ smallmouth, had been falsified.

Thus, returning the All-Tackle title to Hayes and retiring Gorman’s trophy, which still holds the title of the second heaviest smallmouth ever submitted to the IGFA, even though it is not a current record. Despite the controversy surrounding Hayes’ smallmouth, it has withstood the test of time – and quite a few polygraphs, too.

8-Pound Line: Paul E. Beal – 10 pounds, 8 ounces

Dale Hollow Reservoir, Tennessee

More than 30 years after Hayes’ historical catch, Dale Hollow produced once again on April 14, 1986 in the form of a 10 pound, 8 ounce smallmouth caught by local angler Paul E. Beal. The story goes that Beal was sharing a houseboat with some friends and family, and on that fateful morning he was left behind to do the dishes while his buddies snuck off to go fishing.

Angry that he was left cleaning up after everyone, Beal decided to “cool-down” by going fishing with his dad. Not long after the plastic grub he was casting hit the water, Beal came tight on the trophy smallmouth.

After a 15 minute fight on an 8-pound test and no leader, Beal boated the fish which bottomed-out his 10-pound scale. Knowing he had something special, Beal immediately headed for the docks for an official weighing.

The catch was documented well and soon after made headlines as the third heaviest smallmouth ever, and the new men’s 8-pound line class world record. But that doesn’t mean the catch wasn’t controversial. Dale Hollow is bisected by the Tennessee/Kentucky border.

According to Beal, the fish was caught in Tennessee, but weighed in Kentucky. This has created a feud between the two states, who both want to claim ownership for this monumental catch, and understandably so.

12-Pound Line: Terry Dodson – 9 pounds, 6 ounces

Lake Jocassee, South Carolina

In 2001, angler Terry Dodson made angling headlines for the world record smallmouth he pulled from Lake Jocassee, which is located in far northwest section of South Carolina and very close to the North Carolina border. On the morning of May 3, 2001, Dodson was fishing with a friend on his boat, when the diving plug he was casting suddenly got crushed.

After a relatively quick 5 minute fight, Dodson’s friend was able to net the fish. The fish was officially weighed-in at 9 pounds, 6 ounces and has held the men’s 12-pound line class record ever since.

6-Pound Line: Dr. E. Scott Yarbo – 8 pounds, 9 ounces

Counce, Tennessee

Dr. E. Scott Yarbro braved the snow flurries and strong winds on the morning of March 11, 1998, and ventured out to Pickwick Lake, located in Counce, Tennessee. Later that morning, while casting a 4-inch Harville Shad on a 3/8-ounce jig head, Yarbro hooked into a fish that put his 6-pound tackle to the test.

Nearly 10 minutes after coming tight, Yarbro had the “biggest smallmouth he’d ever seen” on his boat. Realizing they had something special, Yarbro and his friend immediately called it a day and headed straight to a local store for an official weigh-in, where it tipped the scales at an impressive 8 pounds, 9 ounces.

Soon after, Yarbro’s fish was granted the men’s 6-pound line class record, which it still holds today.

16-Pound Line: Terrell D. Nail – 8 Pounds, 6 ounces

Pickwick Lake, Alabama

The men’s 16-pound line class record has belonged to Terrell D. Nail since he pulled an 8 pound, 6 ounce smallmouth from Alabama’s Pickwick Lake on January 4, 1988. But unlike the other anglers in this list, Nail was fishing with a live shad – rather than a jig – when he hooked his world record. The fish put up a tough fight for 8-10 minutes before it could be subdued and landed.

An interesting fact about Nail’s record fish is that it was originally submitted for a 12-pound line class record because that was what he was using at the time. Had the line tested accurately, his catch would have never been listed as world record because the 12-pound line class record was a couple ounces heavier at the time.

However, because the 12-pound Berkley Trilene XT line he was using tested out at 16.8 pounds, his catch was placed in the 16-pound category and became the new world record.

Ultra-Light Tackle: Herbert Ratner – 7 pounds, 0 ounces

Pickwick Lake, Tennessee

When it comes to catching trophy smallmouth on ultra-light tackle, that title belongs to multiple record holder Herbert Ratner.

On the morning of June 2, 1997 while fishing a live minnow on the Tennessee side of Pickwick Lake, Ratner skillfully played a 7-pound smallmouth on straight 2-pound tackle (no leader) for nearly 20 minutes, before he could subdue the fish.

As if that wasn’t impressive enough, Ratner was also able to properly document the fish on the shoreline and then release it alive. And not only does Ratner own this impressive record, he also holds the 2-pound fly tippet record for smallmouth bass with a 5 pound, 8 ounce fish he caught in 2000.

20-Pound Fly Tippet: John Herrick – 6 pounds, 12 ounces

Basswood Lake, Minnesota

While John Herrick’s 6 pound, 12 ounce smallmouth bass is certainly not the largest specimen ever caught by an angler, it is the largest smallmouth bass record ever caught on fly tackle that has been submitted to the IGFA.

Herrick was fishing Minnesota’s Basswood Lake on August 30, 1997 when he caught his record smallmouth.

The fish ate a white rabbit strip fly and tested Herrick’s tackle and whits for nearly 20 minutes before he could finally boat the fish.The catch soon became the men’s 20-pound tippet class record after it was officially weighed and submitted to the IGFA.

16-Pound Fly Tippet: Pamela Kinsey McClelland – 6 pounds, 4 ounces

Pine Lake, Michigan

Before the IGFA decided to split the freshwater line class and fly tippet world records into men’s and women’s categories (to make the program consistent with the saltwater counterpart), angler Pamela Kinsey McClelland was the only woman to hold a smallmouth bass record.

McClelland caught a 6 pound, 4 ounce smallmouth on August 12, 1995 while fly fishing on Pine Lake, Michigan with her friend, her husband, and her dog.

McClelland, who was visiting Michigan from her home in Washington D.C., needed 10 minutes to land the trophy smallmouth after it ate the red and white streamer fly she was casting. The catch has held the distinction of the heaviest smallmouth caught on 16-pound fly tippet for nearly 20 years.

Male-Smallfry: Michael Fillette – 5 pounds, 12 ounces

Lake Erie, New York

One of the reasons why smallmouth bass are such a popular game fish is because anyone can catch them. Unlike a musky or a marlin that can overpower young or inexperienced anglers, smallmouth are sized appropriately to accommodate all anglers, while still requiring finesse and skill.

Angler Michael Fillette was only eight years old when he caught a fish that most smallmouth junkies would die for – a 5 pound, 12 ounce fish that he pulled from Lake Erie in New York on May 18, 2009.

The young Fillette needed only 8 minutes to subdue the fish after it inhaled the live shiner he was fishing. Not only does Fillette hold the Male-Smallfry record, he is also the youngest angler to hold a record on smallmouth bass.

8-Pound Fly Tippet: Ichiro Nagai – 5 pounds, 9 ounces

Lake Inawashiro, Japan

Although smallmouth bass gained their popularity in North America, their reach is not limited to the US and Canada alone. After being introduced in locations around the world, several international locations are producing world-class sized smallmouth.

On June 8, 2013, Japanese angler Ichiro Nagai, M.D. became the first angler to catch a world record smallmouth bass outside of North America.

Nagai caught his 5 pound, 9 ounce smally while fly fishing Japan’s Lake Inawashiro. Nagai needed only a few minutes to subdue the catch, which soon after became the heaviest smallmouth ever caught on 8-pound fly tippet.

fPorcupines are rodents, and the name porcupine comes from Middle French porc espin, meaning “spined pig.”

There are two families of porcupines: Old World and New World porcupines. The old world porcupines are found in Africa, Asia, and South Europe, while the new world porcupines are found in North, Central, and South America.

This article provides a detailed explanation of what porcupines eat and where they live, among other things:

Facts About Porcupines

There are several interesting facts about porcupines. Here are some of them:

Habitat

Porcupines can be found in different locations depending on the species. For example, the North American porcupines live in coniferous and mixed forest habitats in Canada, Northern Mexico, and the North Eastern United States.

These animals are nocturnal and spend most of their time on trees. However, they will come down to the ground to look for food or during the winter season when there is little foliage on trees.

The Old World porcupines live in terrestrial regions such as deserts, hillsides, and woodlands. Some of these porcupines are excellent swimmers and climbers and spend most of their time in trees.

Characteristics

Porcupines are medium to large-sized animals. They have a round body with short legs and a long tail. The Old World porcupines are larger than the New World porcupines, with some weighing up to 77 pounds, while the North American porcupine is smaller, weighing between 12-35 pounds.

Porcupines have black or dark brown fur. The quills on their backs are stiff and sharp, and they use them for self-defense and to deter predators.

Reproduction

Porcupines are generally solitary animals. The male and female come together only during the breeding season between mid-summer and early fall to mate.

The gestation period for porcupines is about seven months, giving birth to one or two offspring at a time. The young ones are born with soft quills that harden after a few days.

The mother takes care of the young for about 18 months until they are ready to fend for themselves.

The Old World Porcupines VS. The New World Porcupines

In several ways, the old world porcupines(Family Hystricidae) are different from the new world porcupines(Family Erethizontidae). We discuss how the two porcupines differ below.

Old World Porcupines

There are 11 species of old-world porcupines that are classified into eight genera. These porcupines are found in Africa, Asia, and Southern Europe.

The Old World porcupines have longer and thinner quills than the new world porcupines. The quills on their backs are used for self-defense and to deter predators. These porcupines are generally larger than the new world porcupines, with some weighing up to 77 pounds.

New World Porcupines

There are 18 new world porcupines species classified into three genera. These porcupines are found in North America, Central, and South America.

The New World porcupines have shorter and thicker quills than the old world porcupines. The quills on their backs are also used for self-defense and to deter predators.

These porcupines are generally smaller than in the old world, with some weighing up to 35 pounds.

What Do Porcupines Eat?

Porcupines are herbivorous animals, and their diet consists of plants, fruits, and vegetables. They use their sharp incisors to bite off pieces of bark from trees. They also eat the leaves, stems, and roots of plants.

In the wild, porcupines eat just about anything they can find, including insects, rodents, and small reptiles. However, in captivity, their diet is much more regulated and consists mainly of plants and vegetables.

But while the diet of porcupines is general and may seem the same all through, they vary depending on the season and the types of porcupines. Here is a breakdown of what different porcupines eat:

• North American Porcupines

The North American porcupine is a herbivorous animal, and its diet consists of plants, fruits, and vegetables such as apples, bananas, sweet potatoes, and carrots. They also eat the leaves, stems, and roots of plants.

• Brazilian Porcupines

The Brazilian porcupine is omnivorous and will eat both plants and animals. Their diet consists of fruits, vegetables, insects, rodents, and small reptiles. They are expert climbers, which comes in handy when looking for food, allowing them to feed on a wide range of plants and small animals.

• African Brush-tailed Porcupines

The brush-tailed porcupines are one of the largest in Africa and can weigh up to 77 pounds. They are nocturnal animals and spend most of their time on trees. The African brush tail porcupine is a herbivorous animal whose diet consists of plants, fruits, and vegetables. They are also known to feed on animal carcasses.

• Asiatic Brush-tailed Porcupines

These porcupines are fairly small compared to other old-world porcupines but larger than the new world porcupines. They are primarily herbivorous and feed on fruits, grubs, and bamboo shoots. However, they can also feed on insects and scavenge on bones and hones.

• Sumatran Porcupines

These porcupines occupy the Surmattan region, which is the island of Sumatra. They are the largest porcupines in Asia and can weigh up to 60 pounds. The Sumatran porcupine is a herbivorous animal, and its diet consists of plants, sugarcane, melons, and bean. However, they will also eat insects, and other animal remains to get sodium and potassium.

• South African Porcupines

The South-African porcupines, or the Cape porcupines, are the largest of all the porcupines. They can weigh up to 110 pounds, and their quills can be up to 13 inches long. The South-African porcupine is a herbivorous animal, and its diet consists of plants, fruits, roots, bulbs, and vegetables. However, they will also eat carrions.

• Mexican Dwarf Hairy Porcupines

The Mexican dwarf hairy porcupine is one of the smallest species of porcupines. They weigh between two to four pounds and are found in Mexico, Central America, and South America. The Mexican dwarf hairy porcupine is a herbivorous animal, and its diet consists of sweet potatoes, tree leaves, carrots, and bulbs.

• Bristle-spined Porcupines

The bristle-spined porcupine is found in Central and South America. They are nocturnal animals and spend most of their time on trees. The bristle-spined porcupine is a herbivorous animal, and its diet consists of plants, fruits, vegetables, peanuts, and insects. However, their favorite diet is cocoa nuts, and they prefer to live in areas close to cocoa plantations.

• Thick-spined Porcupines

The thick-spined porcupine is found in Africa and Indo-Malayan Asia. They are nocturnal animals and spend most of their time on trees. The thick-spined porcupine is a herbivorous animal, and its diet consists of plants, fruits, vegetables, and insects. However, they are not good climbers and prefer to eat fallen fruits.

Porcupines’ Diet During Seasons

Porcupines are mostly herbivorous animals, but there are some exceptions. Depending on the season, porcupines will change their diet to include more fruits and vegetables or meat.

In the winter, porcupines will eat more bark and twigs because they are looking for food that is high in calories. In the summer, porcupines will eat more fruits and vegetables because they are looking for food that is high in water content.

What Animals Kills Porcupines?

Other animals do not often kill porcupines, but there are some exceptions. This is because the quills on a porcupine can be up to 13 inches long and are very sharp, forming one of the best defenses in any animal.

One of the most common predators of porcupines is the African leopard. Other predators include the cheetah, lions, and hyenas. There have also been spotting of quills on foxes, wolves, wolverines, bobcats, fishers, lynxes, coyotes, owls, and even dogs.

Humans also kill porcupines for their meat and quills. Porcupine meat is considered a delicacy in some cultures, and the quills are used to make porcupine quill art.

Are Porcupines Good For Anything?

Porcupines have many benefits. They are a food source for many animals and provide nutrition to the animals that feed on them. Additionally, they have quills that are used to make porcupine quill art. Porcupines are also known to eat the ticks off of other animals, which helps to control the spread of Lyme disease.

Moreover, porcupines can help the forest ecosystem by eating the bark of trees. This helps to control the growth of trees and prevents forest fires. They also help in pruning trees which allows new growth. The best part is that they aren’t as problematic as other wild animals and aren’t predators.

Final Words

Porcupines are often misunderstood as dangerous because of their quills. However, they are gentle animals that mostly keep to themselves. They are interesting creatures with a surprising diet and many benefits to the ecosystem. They eat leaves, small insects, fruits, and vegetables depending on the season.

Orange mushrooms growing in your yard or lawn can seem to appear overnight. Bright orange mushrooms are easy to spot growing among blades of grass in dark, shaded areas, or on rotting tree trunks. Species of these orange fruiting bodies can grow in spongy clusters or have cylindrical stems with rounded or flat caps with gills on their underside.

Although some varieties of orange mushrooms, like the golden chanterelle, are edible, many are highly poisonous. For example, the toxic orange mushroom, Jack-O’lantern (Omphalotus olearius), is easily mistaken for a chanterelle because it has a similar shape and deep yellow to orange cap.

This article is only a general guide to identifying varieties of orange mushrooms common in yards and lawns. However, its purpose is not to advise on how to identify edible orange mushrooms from poisonous mushrooms. Mushroom foraging for consumption requires expert knowledge and experience. Therefore, never eat any type of mushroom without correctly identifying the species.

Descriptions and pictures of orange mushrooms and toadstools will highlight identifying features to look for. Please read on to learn about the types of wild orange mushrooms you could find growing in your yard.

Orange Mushrooms in the Lawn

Clusters of orange mushrooms are common sights in lawns in the fall after abundant rain. The bright to deep orange shades of these orange fruiting fungi contrast with dark green turfgrass. Common orange lawn mushrooms include the Jack-O’lantern (Omphalotus olearius), orange peel mushroom (Aleuria aurantia), and the bright orange goblet waxcap mushroom (Hygrocybe Cantharellus).

Why Mushrooms Grow in the Yard

Orange mushrooms grow in your yard because fungi in the soil start fruiting under ideal conditions. Like all fungi, wild orange mushrooms are small fruiting bodies that thrive in rich soil, shaded conditions, warm temperatures, and high humidity. Hence, you will most likely find lawn mushrooms in yards in late summer and fall.

You will likely find orange mushrooms near decaying organic matter growing in shaded conditions in your yard. Therefore, wild mushrooms are common under shrubs, in mulch, in the grass, and where tree trunks enter the ground.

What should you do if you find brightly colored orange or orange-red mushrooms in your yard? Generally, you can leave them alone. However, if you are unsure of the species and kids or pets play in the garden, removing them is best.

How to Identify Orange Mushrooms

Apart from their shades of orange, identifying features of orange mushrooms are the shape of the cap, stem, and size. After picking the mushroom, look to see if the cap’s underside has gills, pores, or a spongy feel. Then examine the mushroom’s color and the color of the flesh.

Some identifying features of edible species of mushrooms are their brown, orange, or tan gills, brownish orange caps, and smooth caps without scales or warty growths. Also, there should be no veil-like ring around the stem. However, these are only general guidelines, and you should never identify mushrooms based solely on these criteria.

Types of Orange Mushrooms (With Pictures) – Identification Guide

Let’s look in more detail at common mushrooms with orange fruiting bodies in shades of yellow-orange, red-orange, or pale orange with white spots. The chances are that some of these varieties of orange mushrooms are growing in your lawn or backyard.

Jack-O’Lantern Mushroom (Omphalotus olearius and Omphalotus illudens)

The jack-o’lantern mushroom is one of the most common orange mushrooms you will find growing in your yard. This common mushroom, with its deep orange shades, has a broadly convex round, indented cap, bright yellowish-orange to brownish-orange color, gills running the length of its tapering stem, and pale orange flesh.

The Jack O’Lantern is a relatively large, brightly colored orange mushroom. Its cap measures 1.5” to 4.7” (4 – 12 cm) wide, and its thick, orange stem is 1.3” to 3.5” (4.3 – 9 cm) tall. Apart from growing in your yard, this orange mushroom commonly grows at the base of tree stumps and roots.

This poisonous orange mushroom is a dangerous look alike to chanterelle mushrooms.

Orange mushroom identification

The jack-o’lantern mushroom is identified by its orange color, brownish-orange cap, and fluted gills tapering down the stem. In addition, this glow-in-the-dark mushroom is bioluminescent with a bluish-green color.

Chanterelle Mushrooms

Chanterelle mushrooms are medium orange to yellow edible mushrooms with a broadly flat, convex orange cap. Identifying features of orange chanterelles are the slightly depressed cap’s center, false gills under the cap, and pale yellowish flesh. Some species of chanterelle are red-orange to deep red, like the red chanterelle.

Pale yellowish-orange chanterelles have a distinct vase shape. The tasty mushrooms grow 1.5” to 2.3” (4 – 6 cm) tall, and their cap is 1.1” to 4” (3 – 10 cm) wide. Chanterelles are common throughout North America. You will typically find orange chanterelle mushrooms in coniferous forest floors and shaded areas.

Orange mushroom identification

Chanterelle mushrooms are easy to spot due to their yellow-orange color, tapering long stem, and tiny black scales on the cap.

Orange Fly Agaric (Amanita muscaria var. guessowii)

The orange fly agaric is a highly poisonous mushroom with a cylindrical white stem, orange cap, and white warty growths. The large orange cap can be umbrella-shaped or like a flattened disc. This orange-red mushroom also has a variation of a bright red and white toadstool, the red fly agaric.

The orange fly agaric has a large cap 2.7” to 8.2” (7 – 21 cm) across, and the large orange mushroom grows 2.7” to 7” (7 – 18 cm) tall. Sometimes growing in lawns in shaded, sheltered locations, the orange mushroom is typically found near birch trees or in coniferous woodlands.

Orange mushroom identification

The orange fly agaric has a rounded orange cap covered in small bumpy white growths. It’s got white flesh, white gills, and a distinctive orange-red cap.

Orange Peel Fungus (Aleuria aurantia)

The cup-shaped orange peel fungus is a brilliant orange mushroom with a distinctive crinkled appearance. This common orange lawn fungus is distinguished by its wavy, smooth, bright orange cap that looks like a large slice of orange peel curled on its side. In addition, the irregularly shaped fungus has a fuzzy underside.

The fruiting body of this unusual stemless orange fungus grows 0.6” to 2.7” (1.5 – 7 cm) across. You can often find this vibrant orange mushroom in grassy areas, trails, and residential yards.

Orange mushroom identification

The distinctive orange peel fungus has a unique cupped shape, sometimes with a split down one side. As the mushroom matures, it becomes more flattened.

The Orange Bonnet Mushroom (Mycena acicula)

The orange bonnet is an orange mushroom that grows in dense clusters. It is recognized by its slender, curving stem and bell-shaped cap. The rounded, bright orange cap develops a conical shape as it grows. Under the bell-like cap are closely spaced orange gills with red-orange margins. The sticky orange mushroom also has dense hairs at its base.

The cluster-forming orange mushrooms grow 1.1” to 2.7” (3 – 7 cm) long with wiry stems a few millimeters thick. The small, slimy orange caps measure between 0.39” to 1.5” (1 – 4 cm) wide with a somewhat rounded, conical appearance. The clusters of orange mushrooms are found on the floor of deciduous forests.

Orange mushroom identification

The tiny orange mushrooms have dull orange caps on top of slender yellowish-green stems with bright orange gills underneath the cap.

Goblet Waxcap (Hygrocybe cantharellus)

The goblet waxcap is a small bright orange mushroom with a long, slender orange stem, a round orange cap with in-rolled margins, and attractive white to yellowish-white gills underneath. Other identifying features of the orange mushroom are its sticky feel, bright orange cap with a scalloped margin, and yellow-orange flesh.

The tiny goblet waxcap mushroom grows 1.1” to 2.75” long, and (3 – 7 cm) its small disc-like orange cap is 0.2” to 0.78” (0.6 – 2 cm) across. The orangish mushrooms grow in loose clusters near hardwood trees in deciduous woodlands and sometimes in lawns.

Orange mushroom identification

Identifying features of the goblet waxcap are its long, slender stem, white gills, and broadly convex and scalloped cap that is sticky to the touch.

Red Pine Mushroom (Lactarius deliciosus)

The red pine mushroom is a robust, vase-shaped fungus with a carrot-orange cap that has a sticky feel when wet. The orange mushroom is relatively stout, with noticeable pale orange gills tapering down the stem. When fresh, the fungus secretes an orange-red sticky liquid. After handling, the mushroom develops greenish stains.

Also called the saffron milk cap due to the latex-like orange liquid it emits, the red pine squat mushroom grows 1” to 3” (3 – 8 cm) tall and 1.5” to 5.5” (4 to 14 cm) across. As its name suggests, the orange mushroom is commonly found in coniferous forests near pine trees.

Orange mushroom identification

The short, stumpy orange pine mushroom is identified by its vase-shaped appearance, mottled patterns, and evenly-spaced yellow gills.

Bradleys Mushroom (Lactarius volemus)

Bradleys mushroom is a type of edible orange mushroom with an inward turning, burnt orange round cap, bright yellow gills, and a thick, tubular stem. The orange mushroom typically grows solitary. Other features of the orangish-brown mushroom are the milky-white sap, tapering gills, and white flesh that stains brown.

Bradleys mushroom grows 2” to 4” (5 – 10 cm) tall, and its large disc-shaped cap with tapering gills are 1.1” to 5.1” (3 – 13 cm) in diameter.

Orange mushroom identification

The Bradleys mushroom is identified by its apricot to tawny colored cap that can sometimes be dark brownish-red. However, this orange mushroom is mostly noted for its stinky fish odor and the copious milky white sap it exudes when cut.

Woolly Chanterelle (Turbinellus floccosus)

The unmistakable woolly chanterelle is a vase-shaped, fleshy orange mushroom with a dark orange to brown upper surface and bright white gills on the underside. The fruiting body develops into a trumpet shape as it grows near conifer trees. The mushroom’s flesh is fibrous and easily discolors with brown patches.

The distinctive woolly chanterelle is a tall orange mushroom that can grow 12” (30 cm) tall and wide. The wide top and tapered gills with their pale buff to whitish or yellowish ridged appearance make it easy to spot.

Orange mushroom identification

The woolly chanterelle is easily recognizable by its cylindrical vase-shaped appearance, thick, fibrous flesh, and shades of deep red to yellowish-orange.

Jackson’s Slender Amanita (Amanita jacksonii)

The Jackson’s slender amanita is a relatively large orange mushroom with a tall, cigar-shaped stem and deep orange convex or umbrella-shaped cap. The distinctive features of this wild orange mushroom are its yellow stems, yellowish gills, and bright orangey-red appearance. In addition, the mushroom has a smooth, sticky feel to the cap.

The Jackson’s slender amanita grows 3.5” to 6” (9 – 15 cm) tall, and its cap is 2” to 4.7” (5 – 12 cm) across. This edible orange mushroom is easily confused with poisonous mushrooms like the fly amanita.

Orange mushroom identification

The identifying features of the Jackson’s slender amanita are its tacky, orangey-red convex cap, yellowish gills, and slender yellow cylindrical erect stem.

Chicken of the Woods Mushrooms (Laetiporus sulphureus)

Chicken of the woods is a type of cluster-forming orange fungus that creates shelf-like, overlapping growths on trees. This parasitic golden yellow or orange fungus looks like fan-shaped shelves on a rotting tree trunk. Fresh fungi emit a strong, earthy aroma and exude a pale transparent yellow liquid.

The shelf-like structures of this common woodland fungus measure between 2” and 24” (5 – 60 cm) and up to 1.5” (4 cm) thick. Because of the clumping nature, the large yellowish-orange fungus can become huge orange growths. Additionally, the parasitic fungus kills the host tree long before the edible, yellow-pored fungus appears.

Orange mushroom identification

The easy-to-identify chicken of the woods has large golden orange shelf-like structures attached to dead oak tree trunks. Other common names for the orange fungus are sulphur shelf, crab of the woods, and sulphur polypore.

The Golden Trumpet (Xeromphalina Campanella)

The golden trumpet mushroom is a small rusty brown to dark orange mushroom growing in dense clusters. This orange mushroom is identified by its umbrella-shaped cap, thin dark orange stem, and pale orange gills. As the tiny mushroom matures, the bell-shaped caps grow upward, creating a distinctive vase shape.

The tiny orange mushrooms measure 0.6” to 1.1” tall (1.5 – 3 cm), and their yellowish-orange caps are 0.2” to 1” (0.5 – 2 cm) across. You can typically find clusters of these orange mushrooms growing on fallen logs and old tree stumps of old conifers.

Also called the bell omphalina or golden trumpet, these moisture-loving fungi grow throughout the year.

Orange mushroom identification

The golden trumpet mushroom is a small bunching orange mushroom species, identified by its umbrella-like cap that eventually grows into a funnel shape.

Conical Waxy Cap (Hygrocybe conica)

The conical waxy cap is a small orange-topped or red-capped mushroom with a pointed sticky cap, erect yellow-orange stem, and white or orange-red gills. The orange-red mushroom caps emerge sharply conical and gradually flatten to a broadly convex shape with a pointed tip in the middle.

Also called the witch’s hat due to the cap’s shape, this orange conical waxy cap measures 1.18” to 3.14” (3 – 8 cm) tall, and the cap is 0.39” to 1.5” (1 – 4 cm) across. You will often find these pretty orangish mushrooms growing under oaks in woodlands.

Orange mushroom identification

The conical waxy cap mushroom has a distinctive broad cap with wavy margins and a pointed center.

Lobster Mushroom (Hypomyces lactifluorum)

The lobster mushroom is a parasitic type of fungus, not an actual mushroom. The fungus attaches itself to certain mushroom species, turning them a reddish-orange color. This gives the affected fungi a distinct cooked lobster coloration. As the parasitic fungus grows, it distorts the shape of the host mushroom, creating a tough, bright orange outer skin.

The size of lobster mushrooms depends on the size of the host mushroom. Lobster mushrooms are edible fungi and are sold commercially in some grocery stores. Their seafood-like flavor and dense texture make them a delicacy.

Orange mushroom identification

The identification features of a lobster mushroom are its bright reddish-orange coloring and hard surface dotted with tiny white pimples.

Learn how to identity common types of yard mushrooms.

Related articles:

• Types of Red Mushrooms – Identification Guide
• Types of Edible Mushrooms