Turkey hunting can get a bit dreary as the season runs on. Like most wild game seasons, the shimmer of opening day has faded, gobbles have become less frequent, and the needle on your motivation gauge probably sits on E. But there is a bright side to the latter weeks of turkey season. Most hunters have either tagged out, turned their attention to fishing, or sworn off the sport completely. In theory, this means less competition. Unfortunately, most of the “easy” turkeys are gone, and the wary, old gobblers or skittish two-year-olds seem reluctant to gobble at best.

Still, the late season can be a great time to bag a longbeard. The past two years, I’ve been fortunate enough to take a gobbler the last week of each season. Gobbles were seldom, and the tactics required a bit of creativity, but they were some of the most rewarding hunts I’ve had to date. Here are a few tips to bag a last-minute tom.

Cover Ground

Though not always the case, you’ll need to put some distance between you and the parking lot to strike a gobbler. A lot of hunters won’t hike several miles at the beginning of the season, much less after a long month of hunting. If you haven’t already, e-scout potential roost sites that are at least a half-mile from any roads or access points. Treat this scouting the same way you would if you were planning an out-of-state turkey hunt. Look for open, old-growth timber stands with ridgelines, multiple terrain features, or ones that border private ag fields. Then, get ready to run-n-gun.

Pull a Turkey Hunting All-Dayer

Most turkey hunters call it quits when the gobbling slows down, but mid-morning to afternoon can be a sweet time to strike a lonely tom. If your first spot doesn’t work out, pull up stakes and head to another property or public ground. You’ll likely find parking lots at your nearest national forest vacated well before noon. Of course, you’ll want to check local regulations if your season has a midday cutoff.

Call Less Frequently

You can’t read any turkey literature without the mandatory plea to call less. While I do believe there’s a time and place to go toe-to-toe with a fired-up gobbler, the late season isn’t it.

Assuming your opening season lines up with peak breeding, most gobblers aren’t as eager as they were opening morning. Couple that with weeks of hunting pressure, and you’ll quickly find that most longbeards gobble less. No matter how many times you cutt, cackle, or yelp, he’s probably going to be reluctant to respond — at least audibly. If he does decide to commit to your calls, it’ll be silent. If you strike a bird and he goes quiet, keep the calling and moving to a minimum. He’s probably headed your way.

Subtle calling can be the way to a late-season gobbler’s heart. He’s heard every call in the book by this point. Soft clucks, purrs, and strategically timed scratches can put him at ease.

Get Close to the Roost

Of all the late-season birds I’ve killed, getting tight to the roost played a huge role in the success. This is an aggressive tactic, especially if you’re making a move after he gobbles, but a tom is more likely to come check you out if he doesn’t have to cross a country mile to get there. Terrain, foliage, and daylight dictate how close you can get, but if you can sneak within 100 yards of his roost tree, you’re giving yourself a greater chance.

Subtle, infrequent calling definitely applies here. Even if he doesn’t respond to your soft clucks or tree yelps, he hears you. You don’t have to make him cut you off, as fun and tempting as that seems. This is also a great time to mimic a fly-down if you can get away with the movement.

Setup on Ambush Sites

Sometimes, no matter how much subtle or excited calling you do, a gobbler just isn’t interested. If you’re still holding onto a tag the last week of turkey season, your best efforts might be to locate strut zones or travel routes and sit over them. Though not as exciting as watching a tom strut and gobble into shotgun range, it can be predictably effective. Strut zones could be a certain field edge, ridge top, or creek bottom that turkeys frequent. These can be tough to locate at this point in the season, but glassing field edges or a quick scouting trip can help you locate them.

For travel routes, dip into your deer scouting techniques. Think about pinch points in the big woods or trails that lead from timber into fields. You can also check for tracks crossing dirt roads and backtrack the likely route into the timber. Once you pin down a travel route or strut zone, sit back and get comfortable. Turkey hunting is often just a waiting game.

Final Thoughts on Late-Season Turkey Hunting

Late-season gobblers (probably) won’t throw all caution to the wind and come running to your setup, but that doesn’t mean they’re invincible. Creativity and patience go a long way at this point in the season. Include those two into your tactics, and you’ll have a decent shot at filling your tag in the eleventh hour.

What’s the best rifle scope for hunting you should be using this fall?

I think we can probably agree that choosing the best rifle scope for hunting can be a pretty difficult task, especially for those who are new to hunting or just don’t know a lot about hunting rifle scopes in general.

To start off with, there are so many different rifle scopes available on the market these days that selecting the right one can be overwhelming. Additionally, it can be difficult to cut through some of the marketing speak and hype out there in order to determine what stuff is worth your hard earned money and what rifle scopes you’re better off avoiding.

I’ve experienced a lot of that same frustration myself.

I’ve tried out literally dozens of different rifle scopes with varying results over the years. Though I’ve never owned a truly bad scope, I have purchased a few models that I felt were a waste of money and would would not recommend to others. Luckily, there are several high quality rifle scopes for hunters on the market today that provide exceptional performance both at the range and afield.

In this post, I share my picks for the best rifle scopes for hunting. Just buying one of these rifle scopes won’t guarantee that you’ll fill your tag this fall. However, the right scope can still provide an important advantage when you need it most and increase the odds that you’ll cleanly and ethically take the game you’re after.

Before we get started, here’s a disclaimer: some of the links below are affiliate links. This means I will earn a small commission if you make a purchase.

This commission comes at no extra cost to you. This helps support the blog and allows me to continue to create free content that’s useful to hunters like yourself. Thanks for your support.

Now that we’ve got that out of the way, let’s get started.

Feel free to scroll straight through the article, or click one of the links below to jump straight to the best rifle scopes for hunting in the specific category you’re looking for.

Most Versatile Rifle Scope For Hunting

Best Value Rifle Scope For Hunting

Best Rifle Scopes For Hunting Under $200

Best Rifle Scope For Hunting Under $300

Best Rifle Scope For Hunting Under $500

Best Rifle Scope For Hunting Under $600

Best Rifle Scope For Hunting Under $1,000

Best Rifle Scope For Hunting Under $1,500

Best Rifle Scope For Hunting Under $2,000

Best Rifle Scope For Hunting Under $3,000

Best Scopes For Hunting With An AR

Best First Focal Plane Scope For Hunting

Best “Smart” Rifle Scopes For Hunting

Most Versatile Rifle Scope For Hunting

Leupold VX-5HD 3-15x44mm

I’ll cut straight to the chase: I think the Leupold VX-5HD is the most versatile hunting scope currently available on the market. Not only that, but this is my favorite hunting scope. Full stop.

Why? First, it has fantastic glass and provides outstanding light transmission. Plus, the specific VX-5HD model I’m recommending here also uses an illuminated FireDot Duplex reticle. Basically, it’s a standard duplex crosshair with an illuminated red dot in the center that you can turn on and off.

It works just like a typical scope during the day, but you can turn on that illuminated reticle to aid in aiming during low light conditions. I’ve been in several situations where I had game come out during legal shooting light, but it was dark enough that I had trouble seeing the animals with my naked eye.

Fortunately, the light gathering capabilities of the VX-5HD are so fantastic that I could see much better while looking through the scope.

For example, I successfully and cleanly took a big blue wildebeest with my VX-5 on a recent hunt in Africa at dusk when it was so dark that I could not see the black crosshairs on his dark body. However, I just turned on the illuminated reticle, put the dot where I wanted to hit, squeezed the trigger, and he dropped in his tracks.

There’s no way I could have ethically or practically taken that shot with a scope that lacked the fantastic light transmission of the VX-5HD or without the illuminated reticle.

The Leupold VX-5HD also comes with Leupold’s CDS-ZL system. This is basically a custom elevation turret matched to your favorite hunting load. Once you install the new CDS-ZL2 dial, it’s a simple matter of turning it to the right range and doing your part as a shooter.

No more taping a bullet dope chart to the stock of your rifle or trying to determine the proper amount of hold over before you take a long range shot. If your target is 400 yards away, just set the custom elevation dial to 400 yards, hold the crosshairs exactly where you want to hit, and squeeze the trigger.

The VX-5HD also has a side focus parallax adjustment dial and a wide zoom range from 3x all the way up to 15x on the high end. This wide zoom range makes the scope well suited for basically any hunting situation you can think of from whitetail in thick timber, to open country antelope or mule deer hunts, or even elk up in the Rocky Mountains.

This scope is also really well built, tracks beautifully, has forgiving eye relief, and holds a zero exceptionally well.

To be fair, the Leupold VX-6HD line has a few additional features that some hunters really like. However, I own and have hunted with both and, in my opinion, the VX-5HD provides the best balance of size, weight, price, and the features that are most important to me.

I have a couple of 3-15×44 VX-5HD scopes on my traditional hunting rifles as well as a 1-5x20mm version on my .458 Win Mag that’s perfect for use on dangerous game at close range.

All in all, this is a fantastic rifle scope for hunting that provides high end performance at a surprisingly reasonable price. If that big buck or bull of your dreams steps out of the woods right at last light, you want a scope like the VX-5HD on your deer rifle so you can make that shot when it counts.

Key Features

• Weight: 19.7 ounces
• Magnification Range: 3-15x
• Objective Lens Diameter: 44mm
• Tube Diameter: 30mm
• Field of View: 38.3-7.7 feet at 100 yards
• Turret Click Values: .25 MOA
• Reticle Focal Plane: Second
• Parallax/Focus: Side adjusting parallax/focus knob
• Knob Style: Capped Windage & Custom Dial System-ZL Elevation (CDS-ZL)
• Illuminated Reticle: Yes

Pros

• Wide magnification range
• Excellent quality glass
• Illuminated reticle is perfect for low light situations
• Great balance of useful features without too many unnecessary “extras”

Cons

• On the heavy side
• Lacks throw level on magnification ring
• Higher price point

BUY A LEUPOLD VX-5HD SCOPE ON AMAZON HERE

BUY A LEUPOLD VX-5HD SCOPE AT OPTICS PLANET HERE

Best Value Rifle Scope For Hunting

Leupold VX-3HD 4.5-14x40mm

The Leupold VX-3HD scope is next up as my selection for the best value rifle scope for hunting. Leupold makes fantastic quality hunting scopes and their VX-3HD model (which replaced the old VX-3i) provides a good mix of useful features and high end glass in a relatively compact package that’s also available at a moderate price tier.

This scope uses a 1″ main body tube, which helps keep it light and compact. Scopes like this one with a 1-inch tube are easier to mount low to the bore, which facilitates a good cheek weld and gives the rifle a more streamlined profile that’s less prone to snagging on obstructions.

A 4.5x magnification at the low end is good for closer range hunting situations while a 14x magnification at the high end works great for checking targets at the range or for shots at longer range afield.

Speaking of which, the Leupold VX-3HD also comes with a coupon you can redeem with Leupold to receive a custom elevation turret matched to your favorite hunting load. They call this their Custom Dial System Zero Lock (CDS-ZL). After installing the new custom dial, just range the target, turn the dial to that number, and aim dead on. Furthermore, the ZeroLock system on that turret eliminates accidental dial movement.

Add it all up, and you’ve got a great hunting rifle scope with lots of useful features at a reasonable price point that should serve you well for many years of use afield.

Key Features

• Weight: 13.3 ounces
• Magnification Range: 4.5-14x
• Objective Lens Diameter: 40mm
• Tube Diameter: 1-inch
• Field of View: 19.9-7.4 feet at 100 yards
• Turret Click Values: .25 MOA
• Reticle Focal Plane: Second
• Parallax/Focus: Fixed at 150 yards
• Knob Style: Capped Windage & Custom Dial System-ZL Elevation (CDS-ZL)
• Illuminated Reticle: No

Pros

• Light and compact
• Good quality glass
• Removable throw lever on magnification ring facilitates rapid adjustments
• Lots of features with a reasonable price

Cons

• No parallax adjustment dial
• No illuminated reticle

BUY A LEUPOLD VX-3HD SCOPE ON AMAZON HERE

BUY A LEUPOLD VX-3HD SCOPE AT OPTICS PLANET HERE

Best Rifle Scopes For Hunting Under $200

Vortex Crossfire II

The Vortex Crossfire II is a great entry level rifle scope and is exactly what you need if you want a no frills rifle scope for hunting under $200 and don’t want to do a lot of shopping.

This scope is nitrogen filled so it’s is fog proof and waterproof. It also has multi-coated lenses that facilitate light transmission and clarity under a variety of circumstances.

This scope is available with the Vortex Dead Hold BDC reticle. At the maximum magnification, the hashmarks on the reticle provide 1.5 MOA, 4.5 MOA, and 7.5 MOA holdover points as well as 2 MOA, 4 MOA, 6 MOA, and 8 MOA windage hold marks.

While the Vortex Optics Crossfire II does not provide light transmission or image quality on par with some of the more expensive optics on this list, it’s still a capable hunting scope for those who don’t need a high performance optic. It’s also comes with Vortex’s lifetime warranty.

Make no mistake: the Crossfire II is perfectly adequate for typical hunting situations, especially for hunters on a tight budget.

Key Features

• Weight: 14.3 ounces
• Magnification Range: 3-9x
• Objective Lens Diameter: 40mm
• Tube Diameter: 1-inch main tube
• Field of View: 34.1-12.6 feet at 100 yards
• Turret Click Values: .25 MOA
• Reticle Focal Plane: Second
• Parallax/Focus: Fixed at 100 yards
• Knob Style: Capped
• Illuminated Reticle: No

Pros

• Light and compact
• Very reasonable price
• Perfect for a budget conscious hunter

Cons

• Lower image quality than the higher end scopes
• Restrictive eye box
• No parallax adjustment dial
• No illuminated reticle

BUY A VORTEX CROSSFIRE II SCOPE ON AMAZON HERE

BUY A VORTEX CROSSFIRE II SCOPE AT OPTICS PLANET HERE

Burris Fullfield E1

While the Vortex Crossfire scope is often slightly less expensive, the Burris FullField E1 scope has a couple of advantages for hunters at a slightly higher price point. It still usually comes in under $200 though.

First, this scope uses slightly better quality glass than the Vortex Crossfire. It also uses the Burris Ballistic Plex Reticle that includes holdover points for various yardages. This is also a durable and well built scope, but comes with the Burris Forever Warranty in case something breaks.

With those things in mind, the Burris provides a good step up in performance for just a little bit more money than the Vortex Crossfire II.

Key Features

• Weight: 13 ounces
• Magnification Range: 3-9x
• Objective Lens Diameter: 40mm
• Tube Diameter: 1-inch
• Turret Click Values: .25 MOA
• Reticle Focal Plane: Second
• Parallax/Focus: Fixed at 100 yards
• Knob Style: Capped
• Illuminated Reticle: No

Pros

• Light and compact
• Very reasonable price
• Perfect for a budget conscious hunter

Cons

• Lower image quality than higher end scopes
• No parallax adjustment

BUY A BURRIS FULLFIELD E1 SCOPE ON AMAZON HERE

BUY A BURRIS FULLFIELD E1 SCOPE AT OPTICS PLANET HERE

Best Rifle Scope For Hunting Under $300

Leupold VX Freedom 3-9x40mm

The Leupold VX-Freedom is another good rifle scope that’s an excellent choice for hunters on a budget. Leupold made a bunch of changes to their line of optics a few years ago and the VX-Freedom replaced the old VX-2 line of scopes. However, this update is a good thing and the VX-Freedom still incorporates the features people loved about the Leupold VX-2 with a handful of added improvements.

Like all Leupold rifle scopes, the VX-Freedom uses quality glass that’s coated to maximize light transmission and minimize glare and reflection. The glass on this scope is not quite as good as what you’ll find on the VX-3HD, VX-5HD, or VX-6HD, but it’s still really good (better than the Vortex Crossfire II).

Plus, the scope is even lighter and little smaller in profile than the VX-3HD.

The Leupold VX-Freedom also comes with a coupon you can redeem with Leupold to receive a CDS-ZL turret matched to your favorite hunting load. This facilitates shots at slightly longer range and a good rifleman should have no issues reaching out a bit on game if necessary.

Even so, this scope is better suited to short to medium range hunting scenarios. Hunters who plan on doing a lot of hunting in open country where encounters with game at longer distances are more likely should look to one of the higher end scopes on this list instead.

Even so, the VX-Freedom is a very capable rifle scope for hunting, especially since it’s available for less than $300.

Key Features

• Weight: 12.2 ounces
• Magnification Range: 3-9x
• Objective Lens Diameter: 40mm
• Tube Diameter: 1-inch
• Field of View: 33.1-13.6 feet at 100 yards
• Turret Click Values: .25 MOA
• Reticle Focal Plane: Second
• Parallax/Focus: Fixed at 150 yards
• Knob Style: Capped Windage & Custom Dial System-ZL Elevation (CDS-ZL)
• Illuminated Reticle: No

Pros

• Light and compact
• Very reasonable price
• Good quality glass
• Lots of features with a reasonable price
• Perfect for a budget conscious deer hunter

Cons

• Lower image quality than the higher end scopes
• No parallax adjustment dial
• No illuminated reticle

BUY A LEUPOLD VX-FREEDOM SCOPE FROM AMAZON HERE

BUY A LEUPOLD VX-FREEDOM SCOPE FROM OPTICS PLANET HERE

Best Rifle Scope For Hunting Under $500

Vortex Diamondback 4-12x40mm

Next up is the Vortex Diamondback 4-12x40mm scope, which I think is the best rifle scope for hunting under $500. Vortex makes great quality hunting scopes and their Diamondback line provides a good mix of good quality glass in a rifle scope suitable for most hunting situations that’s also available at a moderate price tier.

The Vortex Diamondback uses a solid one-piece aircraft-grade aluminum alloy construction that makes this scope very durable and also offers good resistance to heavy recoil, even from magnum cartridges like the 7mm Rem Mag and 300 Win Mag. The Diamondback is also purged with argon to ensure it’s waterproof and fogproof.

Plus, it uses advanced fully multi-coated optics to deliver crystal clear images. This scope also uses Vortex’s Dead-Hold BDC reticle. At the maximum magnification, the hashmarks on this reticle provide 1.5 MOA, 4.5 MOA, and 7.5 MOA holdover points as well as 2 MOA, 4 MOA, 6 MOA, and 8 MOA windage hold marks.

This scope also uses a 1″ main body tube, which helps keep it light and compact. Scopes like this one with a 1-inch tube are easier to mount low to the bore, which facilitates a good cheek weld and gives the rifle a more streamlined profile that’s less prone to snagging on obstructions.

A 4x magnification at the low end is good for closer range hunting situations while a 12x magnification at the high end works great for checking targets at the range or for slightly shots at longer range afield.

Add it all up, and you’ve got a great hunting scope that’s right in that “sweet spot” where it doesn’t cost too much, but should also serve you well for many years of hunting use. This is the sort of scope the vast majority of hunters could buy today and happily use for the next 20-30 years without ever feeling like they needed something nicer.

Key Features

• Weight: 14.6 ounces
• Magnification Range: 4-12x
• Objective Lens Diameter: 40mm
• Tube Diameter: 1-inch
• Field of View: 32.4-11.3 feet at 100 yards
• Turret Click Values: .25 MOA
• Reticle Focal Plane: Second
• Parallax/Focus: Fixed at 100 yards
• Knob Style: Capped Windage & Elevation
• Illuminated Reticle: No

Pros

• Light and compact
• Good quality glass
• Good light transmission
• Reasonable price
• Durable construction

Cons

• No parallax adjustment dial
• No illuminated reticle

BUY A VORTEX DIAMONDBACK 4-12x SCOPE ON AMAZON HERE

BUY A VORTEX DIAMONDBACK 4-12x SCOPE ON OPTICS PLANET HERE

Best Rifle Scopes For Hunting Under $600

Vortex Viper HS-T 4-16x44mm

The Viper line is the next tier of rifle scopes above the Diamondback line and below the Razor line from Vortex. As such, the Vortex Viper has better quality glass, better anti-reflective coatings, better overall construction, and a few more features than the Vortex Diamondback.

In that vein, the Vortex Viper HST (Hunting Shooting Tactical) is a very tough, well built hunting scope with fantastic extra-low dispersion glass, a forgiving eye box, exposed tactical turrets, and a side focus parallax adjustment dial that’s just a great all-around optical system. It’s not quite as nice as the Vortex Razor LHT (more on that scope shortly), but the Vortex Viper is still a darn good scope, especially considering you can pick one up for quite a bit less than $1,000.

All in all, the Vortex Viper HST is a fantastic hunting rifle scope that provides high end performance out to surprisingly long distances at a shockingly reasonable price.

Key Features

• Weight: 20.8 ounces
• Magnification Range: 4-16x
• Objective Lens Diameter: 44mm
• Tube Diameter: 30mm
• Field of View: 27.4-7.4 feet at 100 yards
• Turret Click Values: .25 MOA
• Reticle Focal Plane: Second
• Parallax/Focus: Side adjusting parallax/focus knob
• Knob Style: Exposed Windage & Elevation Dials
• Illuminated Reticle: No

Pros

• Wide magnification range
• Excellent quality glass
• Reasonable price for scope with great glass and lots of features

Cons

• On the heavy side
• Lacks throw level on magnification ring
• No illuminated reticle

BUY A VORTEX VIPER HS-T SCOPE ON AMAZON HERE

BUY A VORTEX VIPER HS-T SCOPE AT OPTICS PLANET HERE

Best Rifle Scope For Hunting Under $1,000

Zeiss Conquest V4 3-12x44mm

European companies like Zeiss and Swarovski are known for producing outstanding quality optics in general. You tend to get what you pay for with that stuff though and European optics are also generally very expensive.

Fortunately, the Zeiss Conquest V4 is a great way to get a high quality European rifle scope for less than $1,000. This scope does not have a lot of “bells and whistles”, but it’s still an excellent German scope with great low light performance. Zeiss advertises that it uses six-layer multi-coated lenses to offer exceptional 90% light transmission and a clear sight picture.

This is not billed as an extremely lightweight hunting scope or one that’s ideally suited for long range hunting situations. However, the Conquest V4 is an outstanding choice for a hunter who wants a good rifle scope without paying for a bunch of extra features.

Key Features

• Weight: 22.5 ounces
• Magnification Range: 3-12x
• Objective Lens Diameter: 44mm
• Exit Pupil (low magnification): 14.66mm
• Exit Pupil (high magnification): 3.66mm
• Tube Diameter: 30mm
• Field of View: 19-4.8 feet at 100 meters
• Turret Click Values: .25 MOA
• Reticle Focal Plane: Second
• Parallax/Focus: Fixed at 50 yards
• Knob Style: Capped
• Illuminated Reticle: No

Pros

• Excellent light transmission at a reasonable price
• Very good quality glass
• Perfect for a hunter who wants a good scope without a bunch of “extras”
• Very durable

Cons

• Physically on the large and heavy side
• Smaller field of view
• No parallax adjustment dial
• No illuminated reticle

BUY A ZEISS CONQUEST SCOPE FROM AMAZON HERE

BUY A ZEISS CONQUEST SCOPE FROM EURO OPTIC HERE

BUY A ZEISS CONQUEST SCOPE FROM OPTICS PLANET HERE

Best Rifle Scope For Hunting Under $1,500

Vortex Razor HD LHT 3-15×42

Look no further than the Vortex Razor HD LHT if you want the best rifle scope for hunting under $1,500. This scope uses high quality glass, has a reticle with a center illuminated dot, a side parallax knob, and an exposed elevation turret with Vortex’s RevStop Zero System (their version of a a zero stop).

There’s a reason why Vortex Optics markets the Razor HD LHT as “one scope to rule them all” and this rifle scope is well suited for use in dark-timber on whitetails as well as for open country mule deer and pronghorn hunts where precision long range shots may be necessary.

The Razor HD LHT also comes with a coupon you can redeem with Kentron Industries to receive a custom elevation turret matched to your favorite hunting load to assist with making long shots on game and at the range.

Finally, the illuminated reticle is especially nice for use in low-light conditions where there’s still legal shooting light, but it may be too dark to see the reticle. Just turn on the illuminated center dot, place that red dot where you want to hit, and squeeze the trigger. The reticle also works just fine during the daytime when illumination is turned off.

If you want the a great scope for hunting, then strongly consider getting a Vortex Razor HD LHT.

Key Features

• Weight: 19.1 ounces
• Magnification Range: 3-15x
• Objective Lens Diameter: 42mm
• Tube Diameter: 30mm
• Field of View: 35.3-7.0 feet at 100 yards
• Turret Click Values: .25 MOA
• Reticle Focal Plane: Second
• Parallax/Focus: Side adjusting parallax/focus knob
• Knob Style: Exposed elevation turret (MOA)
• Illuminated Reticle: Yes

Pros

• Can order a custom elevation dial
• Excellent glass quality
• Illuminated center dot
• Well suited for a variety of hunting situations

Cons

• Busy reticle
• On heavy side

BUY A VORTEX RAZOR SCOPE ON AMAZON HERE

BUY A VORTEX RAZOR SCOPE AT OPTICS PLANET HERE

Best Rifle Scope For Hunting Under $2,000

Leupold VX-6HD 3-18x44mm

The Leupold VX-6HD product line is Leupold’s top end hunting scope lineup and, at least in my opinion, the 3-18x50mm version of the VX-6HD is definitely Leupold’s best rifle scope for hunting overall.

This is because it uses outstanding glass with superior coatings that facilitates excellent light transmission. Plus, this particular scope also has an illuminated FireDot Duplex reticle. Just like the VX-5HD I mentioned earlier, the FireDot Duplex reticle is a standard duplex crosshair with an illuminated red dot in the center that you can turn on and off.

The VX-6HD is basically an upgraded VX-5HD with a wider zoom range (6x instead of 5 x magnification), a little bit better quality glass, and a couple of other extra features many hunters like having like a reversible throw lever, an electronic reticle level, and flip up alumina lens covers.

While I think the VX-5HD an absolutely outstanding rifle scope, those extra features and capability of the VX-6HD make it a better choice for other hunters who want a little bit better scope with slightly better low light performance, a couple of extra features, and who don’t mind spending a little bit more.

All things considered, the Leupold VX-6HD is an amazing rifle scope. This optic provides a substantial improvement in low light performance over the VX-Freedom and VX-3HD scope lines as well as a modest improvement over the VX-5HD overall.

You can definitely rely on the VX-6HD when the chips are down on a big hunt!

Key Features

• Weight: 21.6 ounces
• Magnification Range: 3-18x
• Objective Lens Diameter: 44mm
• Exit Pupil (low magnification): 14.67mm
• Exit Pupil (high magnification): 2.44mm
• Tube Diameter: 30mm
• Field of View: 38.3-6.4 feet at 100 yards
• Turret Click Values: .25 MOA
• Reticle Focal Plane: Second
• Parallax/Focus: Side adjusting parallax/focus knob
• Knob Style: Capped Windage & Custom Dial System-ZL Elevation (CDS-ZL)
• Illuminated Reticle: Yes

Pros

• Wide magnification range
• Excellent quality glass
• Illuminated reticle is perfect for low light situations
• Just about every feature you could want on a hunting scope

Cons

• On the large and heavy side
• Higher price point

BUY A LEUPOLD VX-6HD SCOPE ON AMAZON HERE

BUY A LEUPOLD VX-6HD SCOPE AT OPTICS PLANET HERE

Best Rifle Scopes For Hunting With An AR Platform

Riton 3 TACTIX 1-8×24

The rise in popularity of the AR platform over the past few years has fortunately resulted in a dramatic increase in scope options specifically designed for hunting with those rifles. Don’t just slap any rifle scope on your AR-15 or AR-10 though.

Instead, you should use a scope like the Riton 3 TACTIX 1-8×24 LPVO (low powered variable optic) that will help you take advantage of the strengths of the AR platform while afield. Specifically, the Riton 3 TACTIX 1-8×24 is a reasonably priced, but feature rich rifle scope that’s great for those hunting situations.

With a 1-8x magnification range, the scope has a wide field of view that facilitates rapid target acquisition at lower power for close quarters work, but also provides ample magnification for longer ranged shots. It also comes with flip up lens covers and an illuminated reticle, which are uncommon features on scopes in this price range.

I especially like the illuminated reticle, which is great for low light performance and can be turned up bright enough to be useful during the day as well. This rifle scope also has a streamlined profile that allows it to be mounted close to the bore to facilitate a good cheek weld while shooting and minimize the chances of the scope getting hung up on vegetation or clothing.

This is the scope I hunt with on my AR-15 and it’s perfect for the job.

Key Features

• Weight: 19.3 ounces
• Magnification Range: 1-8x
• Objective Lens Diameter: 24mm
• Tube Diameter: 30mm
• Field of View: 105.8-13.1 feet at 100 yards
• Turret Click Values: .5 MOA
• Reticle Focal Plane: Second
• Parallax/Focus: Fixed at 100 yards
• Knob Style: Capped
• Illuminated Reticle: Yes

Pros

• Wide magnification range
• Wide field of view
• Removable throw lever on magnification ring facilitates rapid adjustments
• Overall design is perfect for quick target acquisition
• Lots of features for a reasonable price

Cons

• On the heavy side
• Non-traditional reticle

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Vortex Strike Eagle 1-8x24mm

Vortex also produces a great scope for hunting with an AR-platform in the Strike Eagle 1-8x24mm. This rifle scope is also a LPVO that’s well suited for use on the AR platform while hunting (put it on your battle rifle too).

Specifically, the Vortex Strike Eagle 1-8×24 is a reasonably priced, but still low profile, capable, and feature rich scope that’s perfect for those hunting situations.

With a 1-8x magnification range, the scope has a wide field of view that facilitates rapid target acquisition at lower power, but also provides plenty of magnification for longer ranged shots. It also comes from the factory with a removable throw lever for rapid magnification adjustments and an illuminated reticle. This scope also has a streamlined profile.

Key Features

• Weight: 17.6 ounces
• Magnification Range: 1-8x
• Objective Lens Diameter: 24mm
• Tube Diameter: 30mm
• Field of View: 109.0-14.4 feet at 100 yards
• Turret Click Values: .5 MOA
• Reticle Focal Plane: Second
• Parallax/Focus: Fixed at 100 yards
• Knob Style: Capped
• Illuminated Reticle: Yes

Pros

• Wide magnification range
• Massive field of view
• Removable throw lever on magnification ring facilitates rapid adjustments
• Design is perfect for quick target acquisition
• Lots of features for a reasonable price
• Durable

Cons

• On the heavy side
• Non-traditional reticle

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Best Rifle Scope For Hunting Under $3,000

Swaroviski Z6i 2-12x50mm

We can’t talk about the best rifle scopes for hunting without mentioning Swarovski. Specifically, I think the Swarovski Z 6i 2-12x50mm scope is the best rifle scope under $3,000.

Swarovski optics are known for having some of the absolute best quality glass in the business. Just look through a Swaro rifle scope or binoculars and you’ll immediately see what I mean.

Well, the Z6i is one of their higher end scopes and uses incredible glass that provides outstanding transmission while at the same time minimizing glare and reflection.

The Swarovski Z6i also has an illuminated reticle that also facilitates aiming under dim lighting conditions. Users also have the option of adding a custom elevation turret for use at longer range. The wide zoom range combined with the with the large 50 mm objective lens also makes this a very flexible scope with a large exit pupil across a wide magnification range.

All things considered, it’s tough to argue with a combination of crystal-clear images, incredible light transmission, moderate weight, and those additional features that make the Swaro Z6i such an excellent hunting scope both for use during the middle of the day as well as at dawn and dusk when things are so challenging.

To be perfectly clear, the Z6i is about as far as you can get from a “cheap” or a “budget friendly” scope. However, you really get what you pay for with optics and this rifle scope is certainly no exception to that rule.

Not everybody needs a scope this nice, but the Swarovski Z6i is definitely a great option for someone who wants the best rifle scope for hunting possible.

Key Features

• Weight: 18.3 ounces
• Magnification Range: 2-12x
• Objective Lens Diameter: 50mm
• Exit Pupil (low magnification): 25mm
• Exit Pupil (high magnification): 4.16mm
• Tube Diameter: 30mm
• Field of View: 63-10.5 feet at 100 yards
• Turret Click Values: .25 MOA
• Reticle Focal Plane: Second
• Parallax/Focus: Fixed
• Knob Style: Capped Windage & Optional Custom Elevation Turret
• Illuminated Reticle: Yes

Pros

• Reasonable size and weight
• Outstanding quality glass
• Illuminated reticle
• Excellent image quality

Cons

• Higher price point
• No parallax adjustment dial

BUY A SWAROVSKI Z6i SCOPE FROM AMAZON HERE

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Best First Focal Plane Rifle Scope For Hunting

Nightforce ATACR 5-25×56

With a gigantic 56mm objective lens and fully multi-coated ED glass, the Nightforce ATACR is another excellent addition to this list of rifle scopes for hunting. This scope also has a large 34mm main tube, exceptionally clear glass, and a zoom range from 5x all the way up to 25x on the high end that make it a good choice for long-range shooting.

The Nightforce ATACR also provides over 35 mils of elevation adjustment. This rifle scope is also available in first focal plane and second focal plane configurations. Plus, this scope is the very definition of durability too! For all those reasons, I think the ATACR is the best long range hunting scope.

So, this is the best rifle scope for you if you’re looking for something with excellent low light performance that you can also use to reach out to extreme ranges with.

Key Features

• Weight: 39.1 ounces
• Magnification Range: 5-25x
• Objective Lens Diameter: 56mm
• Exit Pupil (low magnification): 10.5mm
• Exit Pupil (high magnification): 2.2mm
• Tube Diameter: 34mm
• Field of View: 18-4.9 feet at 100 yards
• Turret Click Values: .25 MOA or .1 MRAD
• Parallax/Focus: Side adjusting parallax/focus knob
• Knob Style: Capped
• Illuminated Reticle: Yes

Pros

• Wide magnification range
• Optimized for long distance performance
• Illuminated reticle
• Exposed elevation turrets facilitate rapid adjustments
• Side focus parallax
• Unsurpassed low light performance
• Excellent image quality

Cons

• Large and heavy
• Expensive

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Best Rimfire Rifle Scope For Hunting

Leupold VX Freedom 3-9x40mm Rimfire

Though they’re not very popular for big game hunting, rimfire cartridges are extremely common in the hands of small game hunters and are also just a lot of fun to shoot at the range. With that in mind, Leupold optimized a version of their highly regarded VX-Freedom rifle scope for use with rimfire cartridges like the 22 Long Rifle (22LR), 22 Magnum (22 WMR), and 17 Hornady Magnum Rimfire (17 HMR).

This scope is basically just a regular VX-Freedom rifle scope with a fixed parallax at 60 yards to put it more in line with the most commonly encountered shooting ranges rimfire cartridges are used at. Plus, it has a special rimfire reticle to help the shooter with the appropriate holdover at various ranges.

Don’t worry: this scope is not caliber specific either and will work with basically any rimfire cartridge. Heck, you can even put it on a centerfire rifle and take longer shots with it if you want to.

Additionally, this rifle scope still has all the other features of the VX-Freedom with great glass, a durable and waterproof construction, and a lightweight and compact overall profile.

Add it all up and the Leupold VX Freedom Rimfire is without a doubt the best rimfire hunting scope and it won’t let you down. Put one of these scopes on your Ruger 10/22, Bergara B-14R, rimfire AR, or other rimfire rifle and hunt with confidence!

Key Features

• Weight: 12.2 ounces
• Magnification Range: 3-9x
• Objective Lens Diameter: 40mm
• Tube Diameter: 1-inch
• Field of View: 33.1-13.6 feet at 100 yards
• Turret Click Values: .25 MOA
• Reticle Focal Plane: Second
• Parallax/Focus: Fixed at 60 yards
• Knob Style: Capped Windage & Elevation Turrets
• Illuminated Reticle: No

Pros

• Light and compact
• Very reasonable price
• Good quality glass
• Lots of features with a reasonable price
• Perfect for a budget conscious deer hunter

Cons

• Lower image quality than the higher end scopes
• No parallax adjustment dial
• No illuminated reticle

BUY A LEUPOLD VX-FREEDOM RIMFIRE SCOPE FROM AMAZON HERE

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Best “Smart” Rifle Scopes For Hunting

Sig Sauer Sierra6BDX 3-18×44

The Sig Sauer Sierra series of rifle scopes utilize an innovative design that incorporates the SIG SAUER BDX (Ballistic Data Xchange) technology to provide a rapid, and load specific holdover that’s calibrated to the prevailing environmental conditions.

On one hand, this is a traditional rifle scope you can mount on a rifle and use just like any other. However, it really becomes a powerful hunting scope when integrated with the (free) Sig BDX app and/or with a BDX equipped rangefinder (sold separately).

When used together, the Sig Sauer Sirra 6 BDX can calculate an elevation holdover and wind hold for your favorite hunting cartridge out to 1,000 yards.

How does it all work?

First, build a ballistic profile for your chosen hunting cartridge in the app, link your scope to your rangefinder and smartphone via Bluetooth, and sight the scope in properly with that load.

Next, use a BDX equipped rangefinder to measure the range to the target. The rangefinder will also measure the current temperature and altitude, will automatically calculate the appropriate ballistic solution and holdover for that exact distance and environmental conditions, and will transfer that data to the scope instantly via a Bluetooth connection. The rangefinder does not measure wind speed or direction, but the user can enter that information manually in the app to calculate a wind hold as well.

Then, the scope will display an illuminated dot in the reticle that indicates the appropriate elevation holdover (and an additional dot indicating a wind hold if the user entered that information in the app).

Finally, the hunter just needs to place the reticle (which is an illuminated dot) on the spot they want to hit on the target and squeeze the trigger.

This whole system can calculate a ballistic solution out to around 1,000 yards (depending on the exact rifle/cartridge/bullet combination). Fortunately, this rifle scope will likely calculate a ballistic holdover at basically any reasonable range for most centerfire rifle cartridges.

Additionally, it’s important to note that this scope will NOT automatically turn the user into someone capable of shooting targets or game at 1,000 yards. Yes, it can make it a whole lot easier to calculate a ballistic holdover, but there’s more to being a good marksman than that.

It’s also important to note that this is not the best hunting scope for everyone. First, it requires a little bit of tech “know how” and practice to get everything working together.

This scope also requires the use of some specific rangefinders and a ballistic app for maximum utility (it can be used alone, just not to its full potential). It’s also not legal to hunt with in every single place. For instance, it’s definitely illegal in Idaho along with potentially a couple of other places, so check the rules in your area before purchasing.

Furthermore, some hunters just don’t like scopes like the Sierra 6 (or the Burris Eliminator that’s up next) because they think it’s unethical or will encourage hunters to take shots at ranges they should pass on.

Furthermore, this is a battery powered scope (uses 2 CR2032 batteries) and will not work if the batteries die. And to further emphasize the point, it also relies on a Bluetooth connection with a phone and/or rangefinder to make full use of all the scope’s capabilities.

While not gigantic, the Sig Sauer Sierra 6 is also on the heavy side.

Additionally, since it has those electronic systems inside, the Sierra 6 has lower quality glass than is the case with traditional rifle scopes at a similar price point.

With all that said, I’ll be the first to admit that the Sig Sauer Sierra 6 is not the best hunting scope for everyone. However, I still think it’s worth further investigation for those who appreciate its capabilities (especially at longer ranges) and who hunt in places where it’s legal.

Key Features

• Weight: 23.8 ounces
• Magnification Range: 3-18x
• Objective Lens Diameter: 44mm
• Tube Diameter: 30mm
• Field of View: 34.9-5.8 feet at 100 yards
• Turret Click Values: .25 MOA
• Reticle Focal Plane: Second (digital)
• Parallax/Focus: Side adjusting parallax/focus knob
• Knob Style: Capped
• Illuminated Reticle: Yes

Pros

• Rapidly calculates ballistic holdover
• Increases ethical range of hunter
• Comes with removable throw ring to facilitate rapid magnification adjustments

Cons

• On heavy side
• Lacks exposed elevation turrets
• Requires batteries
• Can be used as a “stand alone product” but requires use of app and special rangefinder for full utility
• Not legal in every state
• Lower optical quality than similarly priced hunting scopes

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Burris Eliminator IV

The Burris Eliminator is perhaps the most advanced hunting scope currently available to the average hunter. Why is this the case?

Well, the Eliminator is a rifle scope with a built in rangefinder, ballistic calculator, and inclinometer. Prior to the hunt, just plug in the ballistic data for your chosen hunting cartridge and sight the scope in properly with that load.

Once that’s complete, the hunter only needs to aim at the target (or animal) they want to shoot and push a button to activate the built in rangefinder. After measuring the range to the target, the scope will automatically calculate the appropriate ballistic solution and holdover for that exact distance and adjust the reticle within the scope accordingly.

At that point, the hunter just needs to place the reticle (which is a bright red dot) where they want to hit and squeeze the trigger.

This scope can measure ranges out to 2,000 yards. This is a hunting scope though and it will not calculate a ballistic solution out that far. The details really vary and depend on the cartridge in question, but this rifle scope will likely calculate a ballistic holdover at basically any reasonable range for most centerfire rifle cartridges.

Additionally, though this scope can indeed greatly assist in quickly making a shot at extended range, it’s important to note that it will NOT turn a poor marksman into an expert.

The capabilities this scope has are impressive, but this is also a somewhat controversial rifle scope. For one thing, the Burris Eliminator IV is not legal to use everywhere (Idaho being a notable example of where it’s illegal). Other sportsmen are uncomfortable with just how easy this scope can make it for someone to shoot at extended range out of fear that it’s unethical or will encourage hunters to take shots they have no business attempting.

Furthermore, this is a battery powered scope (uses 2 AA batteries) and will not work if they die (which is a possibility in very cold weather). The Eliminator IV is also physically pretty large and heavy. Heck, it’s easily the heaviest rifle scope on this list of the best hunting scopes.

Finally, this scope is also pretty expensive. However, due to the fact that it also has a laser rangefinder and all those electronic systems inside, the Eliminator IV has lower quality glass than is the case with traditional rifle scopes at a similar price point. The glass isn’t bad by any stretch of the imagination, but it’s just not quite as good as a similarly priced traditional scope.

With all those things in mind, the Burris Eliminator IV is definitely not the best hunting scope for everyone. However, I think it’s the best scope currently available for someone who hunts in areas where it’s legal to use and who appreciate the advantages it delivers.

Key Features

• Weight: 28.8 ounces
• Magnification Range: 4-16x
• Objective Lens Diameter: 50mm
• Tube Diameter: Direct mount (no rings necessary and mounts directly to Weaver or Picatinny style rail)
• Turret Click Values: .125 MOA
• Reticle Focal Plane: First
• Parallax/Focus: Bell mounted parallax/focus knob
• Knob Style: Capped
• Illuminated Reticle: Yes

Pros

• Rapidly calculates ballistic holdover
• Eliminates need to carry separate rangefinder, dope card, or ballistic calculator
• Increases ethical range of hunter

Cons

• Physically large and heavy
• Requires batteries
• Not legal in every state
• Expensive
• Lower optical quality than similarly priced hunting scopes

BUY A BURRIS ELIMINATOR IV SCOPE ON AMAZON HERE

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NEXT: BEST HUNTING EAR PROTECTION FOR SPORTSMEN

Yes, deer really like salt blocks and salt blocks are among the most used deer attractants around. And the reason is that deer can’t seem to get enough of salt or salt blocks in the wild. But why are deer so hooked on salt? This is the question we will be looking to answer in this article.

Why Do Deer crave Salt?

There is a heated debate among hunters and even biologists as to why deer love licking salt blocks. And the debate centers on whether salt is necessary for deer growth or not. But, regardless of which side of the argument you fall, there is no denying that sodium is rare in nature. So sodium deficiency creates more craving for salt.

Also, there is no denying that deer and other animals, humans included, can get addicted to salt. I am sure you know a friend who can’t seem to get enough of salty foods. This is because salt causes a spike in the brain’s dopamine, known as the pleasure hormone.

Because of this, deer typically get a strong urge to lick salt blocks. And since sodium is a rare compound in nature, salt blocks provide a constant supply of salt for deer. This is why deer are so hooked on salt; salt blocks are such effective attractants.

Do Deer Really Need Salt?

This is the question that elicits heated debate among hunters and biologists. However, research on the subject reveals that deer are attracted to sodium chloride and calcium chloride salt licks.

And for those unaware, sodium chloride is the scientific term used to describe table salt. Researchers have also found that calcium and sodium are important to deer bodily functions.

For instance, deer antlers comprise 20% calcium and 10% phosphorous. As such, in one way or form, calcium and sodium are essential to deer. Thus researchers and scientists recommend a salt concentration of 16% calcium and 8% phosphorous.

Why You Should Add Calcium And Phosphorus In Salt attraction Areas?

Deer are known for their impressive antlers. But how do deer get the calcium they need to grow them? For example, bucks extract 40% of their needs from their skeletal structure and apply it to growing antlers. This is why many people recommend adding about 16 to 20 percent calcium, and eight to ten percent phosphorus in deer feeders or salt attraction areas for deer. In these ways, you actually help supply the deer with what they need and help maintain their habitat.

Types Of Salt Attractants

When you decide to use salt to attract deer, there are different varieties to choose from. Some come with additional minerals, such as proteins. You can also find flavored salt attractants such as apple-scented attractants.

But where salt attractants vary significantly in their physical forms. For example, you can get attractants in the form of either powder or a rock-like block.

Which Is Better, Powder Or Salt Blocks

So should you go for powder salt attractants or solid salt blocks? Well, both have their pros and cons. Powder salt attractants are easier to use for attracting a herd of deer. You can spread the powder attractant over a wider area to attract more deer.

With a salt block, only one deer at a time can lick the block, depending on size. This means attracting a herd of deer using a salt block is a bit tricky. Also, salt blocks can be heavy, making them challenging to transport and set up.

However, salt blocks, which typically look like rocks, have one thing going for them. Because they look like natural rocks, they blend in better with natural surroundings.

How to Attract Deer With a Salt Block

Research shows that deer get attracted to salt during spring and summer. This is when the vegetation is lush, and deer are growing their antlers. Also, this is the time of year when most does are rising their fawns.

When To Put Out Salt Blocks For Deer: Best Time To Use Salt Attractants

The best moths to use salt attractants seem to be the months of April, May, and June. This is because usage and the need for salt among deer gradually decrease after June.

Where And How To Apply Salt Attractants

To attract deer with salt attractants, you must know how and where best to do it. Here are some Tips

1. Using powder attractants, the best soil to spread it over is heavy clay soil.
2. Salt leaches into the soil and disappears. Therefore powder salt attractants do not work well in sandy soils.
3. Also, you want to apply your attractant on flat ground. Typically you cant to place the attractant in a ridgetop in a shallow depression.
4. Also, I will advise you to place the salt brick under any kind of cover because if you do not so after a few rainfalls the brick will dissolve which is just a waste of money. If you can’t cover the brick then just rely upon the block.
5. You can also apply the attractant on a known deer trail, where you know deer pass frequently.
6. As for when to use the attractant, the best month is March. This will ensure the attractant will be fresh when the deer demand for salt peaks in the summer and spring.
7. When placing a salt block, choose areas surrounded by bushes or trees. Ideally, a place where you can hide and stalk deer without being detected. Salt blocks have a hole drilled into one end.
8. Take a wooden or steel post, drive it into the ground, and mount the block onto it using the hole drilled into it. The pole should be about 3 feet tall, so the block is 3 feet from the ground.

Regular Salt Licks Vs. Mineral Blocks

Mineral blocks differ from salt licks because they have additional nutrients such as proteins. Salt licks, on the other hand, contain salt only. So which ones are better? Salt licks may be a good option during summer or spring when deer crave salt.

But come winter, their appetite for salt will have decreased. Using mineral blocks instead will be a good idea. These blocks can be scented to attract deer all year round. Therefore mineral blocks can attract deer all year round, while salt leaks are suited to summer and spring.

Thus for the best results, you are better off going with mineral blocks over salt licks. The best place to place mineral blocks is along a trail leading to a food source. So you can use mineral blocks with food plots, where you put the blocks on a trail to the plot.

FAQ

Conclusion

There is a lot of information and debate about whether salt is essential to deer growth. But all parties agree, though, that deer, like most other animals, love licking salt. Therefore salt attractants in particular mineral blocks will be a good choice if you want to attract deer.

Salt attractants come in a variety of types, and there are many options available for you to choose from.

When spring rolls around, hunters everywhere gear up to begin establishing or “recharging” the mineral sites on their hunting properties. They know that deer typically begin using supplemental minerals around spring green-up and continue until early fall. Surely, the knee-deep depressions in the soil caused by repeated years of mineral supplementation are evidence of deer need, correct? Maybe, or maybe not. Growing antlers are composed mostly of proteins (80 percent by weight); whereas hardened antlers contain roughly equal amounts of proteins and minerals. Studies have shown that calcium and phosphorus are by far the two most common minerals in deer antlers, comprising 30-35 percent of the mature antler by weight. However, a University of Georgia study detected 11 different minerals in the whitetail’s antlers. In addition to calcium (19 percent) and phosphorus (10 percent), the next most common elements were magnesium (1 percent) and sodium (0.5 percent). Lesser amounts of other minerals were found including potassium, barium, iron, aluminum, zinc, strontium and manganese. Besides calcium and phosphorus, little is known about the role of other minerals in antler growth.

Clearly minerals are important in antler development. Because of the large quantities of minerals required for antler growth, whitetails have developed the ability to “bank” calcium and phosphorus in their skeletons and then transfer these minerals during antler growth. However, these body sources of calcium and phosphorus provide only a portion needed for optimum antler growth. The rest must come directly from their diet while their antlers are actively growing. Therefore, mineral supplementation prior to and during antler growth may be beneficial.

Minerals are also important for does. During gestation and lactation does have high requirements for calcium and magnesium.

Research on domestic livestock has documented numerous benefits of mineral supplementation including increased forage intake, improved forage digestion, and increased reproductive success. In contrast, most studies on whitetails have focused on the impacts on body weight and antler development. Researchers at Mississippi State University found a strong correlation between soil mineral content (primarily phosphorus) and body size, although no correlation with adult antler size was found. They concluded that soil phosphorus levels were the best indicator of body size, probably because phosphorus deficient soils are common throughout the United States.

A classic study on the mineral needs of deer was conducted at Penn State University in the 1950s. In this study, researchers did detect a difference in yearling buck antler development between supplemented and unsupplemented groups. However, these herds were fed a nutritionally deficient diet below what most whitetails would have access to in the wild. Furthermore, when the same deer were examined the following year as 2.5-year-olds, no differences were detected between the two groups.

In a similar study conducted at Auburn University, researchers tried to detect differences in body and antler size between an unsupplemented and supplemented group. This study differed from the Penn State study in that both herds were fed a nutritionally complete diet. In addition, one group was provided a commercial mineral supplement. Over a four year period the researchers were unable to detect any differences between the two deer herds.

Without question deer need minerals, and they will readily use mineral licks. But why do they use these licks and why is their use restricted primarily to the spring and summer? Many hunters believe that it is simply because bucks need the minerals for antler growth and does for raising fawns during these months. However, several studies have shown that while deer readily use mineral licks high in salt, they rarely, if ever, use pure mineral supplements. If deer were lacking minerals, why wouldn’t they use the pure mineral supplement even if salt wasn’t present? No one can say for sure, but it’s probably because most minerals by themselves are bitter.

Could the use of salt/mineral mixes simply be due to an increased need for salt? According to research, yes. During the spring and summer, deer operate at a sodium deficiency due to the high potassium and water content of the forage. This interferes with efficient sodium conversion in the body and increases the need for sodium. This makes deer actively seek out concentrated sources of sodium such as natural or man-made licks. Research in Tennessee supports this. Type of mineral formulation affected total deer use of baited sites, with a high salt formulation receiving over four times the number of daily visits from deer as other formulations.

Almost all soils more than 25-50 miles from a seacoast are low in sodium. Therefore, in these areas, salt may be just as necessary as calcium and phosphorus to whitetails during the spring and summer.

There are three main types of mineral supplements.

1. Food additive – these minerals are combined with a supplemental feed, and deer get them while consuming the feed.
2. Blocks – these are commercial mineral blocks placed on the ground or on a stump, and deer get the minerals by licking the block or consuming the soil below it. Research shows blocks tend to be the least effective way for deer to get supplemental minerals.
3. Granular – these minerals are added to the soil, and deer get them by consuming the minerals and/or soil/minerals mixture. Research shows granular minerals facilitate increased consumption by animals as they’re able to literally eat (vs. lick) the mixture. There are commercial and “homemade” granular mixes available.

What does all this mean to the average deer hunter and manager? The results of these studies suggest that mineral supplementation – especially calcium, phosphorus, and sodium – may provide some benefit, especially in situations where deer are nutritionally deprived or areas with minerally deficient soils. However, age and nutrition are the two most important ingredients for producing large antlered bucks. Regardless of the intensity of mineral supplementation, a yearling buck will still be a yearling buck. Bucks must live long enough to reach physical maturity while having access to high quality nutrition to achieve maximum antler growth. Creating a lick is certainly fun, inexpensive, and watching deer respond to these licks is satisfying. Mineral licks also provide a great place to survey deer with game cameras.

So, if you have already addressed the larger concerns of habitat and herd management, mineral supplements can be another part of your overall management plan. The key is to have realistic expectations. Don’t expect to see trophy bucks walking around this fall just because you gave them a mineral boost this spring. While the advantages of mineral supplementation have not been clearly documented, neither have any disadvantages.

Hunting is a thrilling outdoor activity enjoyed by many enthusiasts. Whether you’re a seasoned hunter or a novice, prioritizing your safety is essential when venturing into the wilderness. By taking certain precautions, you can ensure a safe and enjoyable hunting experience. In this guide, we will explore crucial points to keep yourself protected while hunting.

Proper Planning and Preparation

Before heading out for a hunting expedition, thorough planning and preparation are key. Start by familiarizing yourself with local hunting regulations and obtaining the necessary permits. Research the specific rules and regulations for the area you plan to hunt in, as they may vary depending on the location and the type of game you intend to pursue. Study maps of the hunting area to understand its topography, potential hazards, and legal boundaries.

It is also important to inform someone reliable about your trip, including your expected return time and the location where you will be hunting. Provide them with relevant contact information and instructions on what to do in case they don’t hear from you within a reasonable timeframe. Additionally, carry a means of communication like a mobile phone or a two-way radio to stay in touch with others if needed.

Dress Appropriately

Choosing the right attire is vital for both comfort and safety during a hunting trip. Opt for clothing that provides effective camouflage and blends well with the natural environment in which you will be hunting. Consider the predominant colors and patterns of the landscape during the season you plan to hunt. This will help you remain undetected by your game.

Ensure your attire includes bright-colored elements, such as an orange hat or vest, to enhance visibility to other hunters in the vicinity. This is particularly important to avoid any mistaken identity accidents. 

Additionally, for those seeking an extra layer of protection, considering the use of a bulletproof vest can be a worthwhile option. While not commonly utilized in standard hunting scenarios, bulletproof vests can provide an added level of safety in specific situations where there may be a higher risk of accidental discharge or when hunting in areas where firearms are more prevalent. You can get more information from https://bulletproofsupplystore.com/, but generally, bulletproof vests are designed to absorb and distribute the impact of bullets, reducing the risk of serious injury. Consult local laws and regulations regarding the use of bulletproof vests during hunting activities and consider professional advice to choose a vest that suits your specific needs.

Handling Firearms Responsibly

Firearm safety is of utmost importance when hunting. Always treat firearms as if they are loaded, even when you are certain they are not. Familiarize yourself with the specific features and operation of your firearm, whether it’s a rifle, shotgun, or bow, and ensure it is in proper working condition before every hunting trip. Regularly inspect your weapon to check for any signs of wear or malfunction.

When transporting firearms, always follow local laws and regulations. Ensure they are unloaded, securely stored, and properly cased or holstered. When handling firearms during the hunt, maintain the barrel pointed in a safe direction, away from yourself and others. Never place your finger on the trigger until you are ready to shoot. Remember, proper firearm safety practices are critical to preventing accidents and ensuring the well-being of everyone involved.

Be Aware of Your Surroundings

Maintaining awareness of your surroundings is crucial for your safety while hunting. Regularly scan the area for other hunters, as their presence may not always be immediately apparent. Communication is key in such situations, so consider using a whistle or other agreed-upon signals to alert nearby hunters of your presence.

Before taking a shot, always positively identify your target and what lies beyond it. It is essential to have a clear line of sight to your target without any obstructions that could cause a bullet or arrow to deviate from its intended path. 

Avoid wearing headphones or engaging in activities that may distract you from your environment. Be cautious of potential obstacles like fallen trees, uneven terrain, or wildlife that may pose a threat. By remaining vigilant and alert, you can reduce the risk of accidents and ensure the safety of yourself and others.

First Aid and Emergency Preparedness

No matter how careful you are, accidents can still happen. Therefore, it is crucial to carry a well-equipped first aid kit and have a basic understanding of first aid techniques. Your first aid kit should include items such as bandages, adhesive tape, antiseptic wipes, tweezers, and any necessary prescription medications. It’s also a good idea to carry a compact manual that provides instructions on basic first aid procedures.

Learn how to treat common hunting injuries like cuts, sprains, or burns. Understand the signs and symptoms of more serious conditions, such as hypothermia or heat exhaustion, and know how to respond accordingly. Additionally, include essential items like a flashlight, whistle, and compass in your survival kit. These tools can be invaluable in emergencies or when unexpected situations arise.

Familiarize yourself with basic survival skills such as building a shelter, starting a fire, and finding sources of potable water. While these skills may not be necessary for most hunting trips, knowing them can provide added confidence and security. Stay up-to-date with weather forecasts and be prepared for sudden changes in weather conditions.

Hunting is an exhilarating outdoor activity that allows us to connect with nature and challenge our skills. However, ensuring our safety should always be the top priority. By following the points outlined in this guide – proper planning, appropriate attire, responsible firearm handling, situational awareness, maintaining hydration and nourishment, and being prepared for emergencies – you can significantly minimize the risks associated with hunting.

In many states, the spring turkey season only lasts two or three weeks. The drastic and rapid changes that take place throughout this short timeframe amaze me.

One of the most drastic changes is the way your hunting area looks. In most locations, these changes happen quickly and are often noticeable from day-to-day. Perhaps you could see for several hundred yards on opening morning. Today, the area may be in full foliage, limiting visibility.

Another change from beginning to late season is the behavior of turkeys themselves. Toms have spent the first few days being pressured by every hunter with a turkey call within a 50-mile radius; they have also spent the last month fighting with other toms to establish dominance and determine who is going to breed hens first. To put it mildly, by the late season, toms are stressed out and often cautious of every move they make.

Late-season decoy setups are often a tense, uncertain and debated subject for turkey hunters. As mentioned earlier, by this point in the season, many gobblers have been fighting with other toms at some point. In some cases, they’ve had their butt whipped. This combined with likely encounters with hunters who tried to shoot their head off can cause mature toms to become skeptical of approaching a decoy setup. But don’t let this common, late-season fear find you leaving your decoys in the truck. With some careful thought, more strategic placement, and different calling regimens, your turkey decoys can still help you from ending the season with an unfilled tag.

Early in the season, a decoy setup is usually used to fool a gobbler into thinking he’s got a chance at breeding a hen. The typical setup often consists of a hen and either a jake or a strutting tom. When a gobbler sees this picture, he often comes in ready to fight. During the late season, however – as we’ve explained – his mood can change as quickly as the foliage.

Instead of coming in with boxing gloves on and swinging, toms can be more likely to avoid a scuffle because of fear of losing the battle. In some cases, toms will even spook from such a decoy setup and leave the area altogether.

To avoid the chance of running him off, use a low-key late-season decoy setup that is simpler, more subtle, and exhibits less dominance. Your goal is to simply to get his attention instead of bringing him in for a fight. During the late season, the only decoy I leave at the house is a full-strut gobbler. I’ll usually switch to a single hen decoy and occasionally a jake decoy to go along with her.

During the latter part of the spring, hens began to venture out in the fields or open areas by themselves, often getting up off a nest to do a little feeding or dusting. By using one lone-hen decoy, you are naturally replicating a turkey’s behavior. When a tom sees a lone hen, the curiosity builds as to whether she has been bred. Perhaps she’s looking for company.

Sometimes jakes have the same idea, so I may decide to place a jake decoy ten to 15 yards from the lone hen. On many occasions during the late season, I have had jakes respond to my calls and my lone decoy setup. The jakes show up in hopes of trying to get access to a hen who isn’t accompanied by a mature tom. When a single jake hangs around the hen decoy, it enhances the scene for any tom. Unlike a mature gobbler, a jake is an easy fight. Using the hen/jake combination makes it possible to appeal to that last bit of dominance in a mature gobbler in an unthreatening way.

The next thing to remember when using decoys in the late season is to pay particular attention to where they are placed. Ground foliage has grown up just like the leaves on the trees; your decoys must be visible. We’ve all had toms come into the field we’re hunting and seemingly pay no attention to our decoys. When this happens, don’t overthink things; it’s usually because he simply didn’t see them. When a decoy is placed out in the grass, it may look visible from your vantage point, but it may not be to a turkey. In all situations, but especially the late season when grass at other vegetation is thick, try to place your decoy on a hill or rise where it’s most visible. If necessary, use taller decoy stakes to make them visible above the grass.

Once the decoys are in place and visible from a long distance, consider your calling style. Remember that gobblers have been pressured. Just like your modified decoy setup, late-season toms often respond better to more subtle calling, so tone it down.

Resist the urge to make and gobbler calls when a tom is slow to respond. Hearing another tom close to the hen can intimidate a late-season tom. Instead, use a few soft yelps sparingly. All you want to do is let a nearby tom know there is a hen out by herself. Call softly and only periodically. This is often just enough to build his curiosity and make him want to come to investigate.

Understand that “late season” does not mean a specific date or time of year, as hunting seasons are different across the country. But all states and all turkey-hunting ranges do have one thing in common: by the time the late season arrives, turkeys have been pressured and are on high alert. So, wherever you take to the field, combine a less intimidating low-key decoy setup with a softer, more subtle calling method for increased success in your late-season hunting.

Photo by: Matt Addington

A lot of firms out there are building custom bolt-action rifles for big game hunting. There is seemingly no end to high-end production, semi-custom and custom rifles on the market. Prices and quality run the gamut. In 2015, Andrew Foster set out to be different from the rest. He founded AllTerra Arms in Boise, Idaho, with the hope of “designing, patenting, and building the most accurate and reliable rifle on the planet.”

AllTerra’s Mountain Shadow Carbon is one of the rifle designs that evolved from Foster’s vision. Customers can choose from off-the-shelf rifles or use AllTerra’s website to custom-configure their own creations. Choices begin with choosing the basic rifle model, a right- or left-handed action and chambering. The stock is next, and buyers can customize length-of-pull, various camo patterns and even choose the style of sling swivel stud or hardware desired.

Barrel length is the next choice, followed by several trigger and floorplate options. Eight different metal finishes are available, all of them Cerakote. The final choice is which mount and optic are desired, with options from Leupold, Nightforce, Steiner, Swarovski, Kahles and Zeiss. AllTerra will mount a customer-provided scope for a fee.

AllTerra’s Mountain Shadow Carbon is built on the company’s precision-made Convergence action. The action is CNC machined on pre-hardened 416 stainless steel. This is tough on tooling and is more expensive to produce, but it eliminates the possibility of warpage during the heat-treat process.

The bolt raceways are EDM cut, another expensive and time-consuming process that produces excellent results. The Convergence has an integral recoil lug, a side-mounted bolt stop and a TriggerTech Primary trigger. This trigger is user-adjustable, and my sample broke cleanly at 2.1 pounds right out of the box.

The action uses a dual opposing lug bolt setup, similar to that of the Remington 700 and its clones. The bolt is machined from hardened 4140 chrome-moly steel. The bolt handle is machined from the same billet as the bolt body, eliminating a potential failure point. The bolt handle is skeletonized.

A mini M16-type extractor is used along with two plunger-style ejectors. In addition, the ejection port is machined oversize to allow plenty of room for loading or unloading the chamber. Unlike some rifles out there, the Mountain Carbon Hunter cleanly ejected loaded rounds, something that is sometimes necessary in the real world. The entire feeding, ejection and extraction system proved to be very reliable during my testing.

Although detachable magazines are available as an option, the standard Mountain Shadow Carbon uses an internal magazine with a hinged floorplate. I prefer an internal magazine over the detachable variety on a hunting rifle because it’s one less thing to lose in the field.

The steel magazine box is extended in length to allow for the long VLD-style bullets that are becoming so popular thanks to their ballistic properties. The bottom metal is fully machined from aluminum as is the magazine’s follower. The floorplate can be released using the button inside the trigger bow, dumping the magazine all at once. In 6.5 PRC, the magazine has a 3+1 capacity, which is pretty standard for that chambering.

As the name suggests, the 20-inch barrel on the Mountain Shadow Carbon is carbon-fiber-wrapped. The contour is similar to the Proof Sendero Light that I’ve used on several rifle builds. I am a fan of the shooting and handling characteristics of this contour. The barrel is threaded 5/8×24 at the muzzle. The test rifle included an eight-port muzzle brake that all but eliminated the felt recoil of the 6.5 PRC.

The stock on the Mountain Shadow Carbon is a proprietary design that is available in various colors and camouflage patterns. The stock has a semi Monte Carlo-style cheekpiece and some reverse drop on the comb. The pistol grip is a comfortable compromise between that of a traditional sporter and many of today’s nearly vertical designs.

The fore-end swells outward to a semi-beavertail profile that is conducive to shooting from rested positions. Both the fore-end and pistol-grip sections are textured to make things less slippery when wet. On my test rifle there is a traditional sling swivel stud at the toe of the stock and a Picatinny rail section where the forward stud would usually be found. This not only allows for the easy mounting of a bipod or tripod, but also offers a QD-style female sling swivel attachment point.

The barreled action is pillar-bedded inside the stock, and the barrel is free-floated the length of the fore-end.

The base rifle weighed six pounds, four ounces without an optic or mounts. With a Zeiss Conquest V6 3-18x50mm mounted in Talley lightweight bases, the overall package came to seven pounds, 13 ounces. The whole package balanced very well and would be pleasant to carry in steep terrain.

There’s little doubt that this rifle was built using top-quality parts. AllTerra didn’t just select the best components that it could source, though. It also deviated from well-established machining techniques in hopes of building a more accurate rifle.

On most bolt-action rifles, barrels are mated to the action using threads. A turned-down section of the barrel at the breech end called the tenon is threaded to match the threads on the receiver. When the barrel is torqued into place on the action, proper headspace is established.

I know from building my own bolt-action rifles that the alignment between the threads, the chamber, the bolt face and the receiver ring can all be critical factors in accuracy as well. To that end, AllTerra added a few steps to the barrel fitting process. Two sections of the tenon, one ahead of the threads and one behind, are turned to a specified diameter. These “seating rings” interface precisely with sleeves in the receiver.

Using this method, the barrel not only is threaded into place, but also there’s press-fit contact at both ends of the tenon. AllTerra calls it the Dual-Lock Barrel Seat. If any other builders are using such a method, they are not advertising it. AllTerra claims this design provides superior harmonics, making the rifle less sensitive to various types of ammo.

Fitting the barrel is one thing; cutting the chamber is another. Chamber-to-bore alignment is one of the most critical elements of accuracy. AllTerra’s standard is to coaxially align the bore to within 0.0001 inch before cutting the chamber. Chambers are then drilled and bored before the finishing reamer cuts to the final dimensions. This helps prevent the reamer from wandering as it cuts its way down the bore. It is a time-consuming process, but it pays big dividends on the range.

The innovation doesn’t end there. Beyond excellent accuracy, AllTerra wants its rifles to be reliable in the field. The same ultra-tight tolerances that are conducive to accuracy can often be detrimental to reliability.

Practically speaking, if two parts fit together perfectly the tiniest bit of dust, dirt or grit will gum up the works. Since it’s impossible to avoid such things in the real hunting world, clearances must be built in to allow for environmental debris. The bolt’s profile is full size at the front and rear, where it locks into the receiver, but it’s relieved 0.050 inch toward the center of the bolt body to provide such a clearance. Spiral flutes cut into the bolt also give debris a way of migrating out of critical areas.

The action lugs on the Convergence are conical and lock securely into the elliptical raceway on the receiver while allowing additional tolerances where needed. Finally, the bolt body is coated in nickel boron, a super-slick and corrosion-resistant finish.

The base price for the Mountain Carbon Hunter is $6,250. According to the custom configurator on AllTerra’s website, my rifle as tested would retail for $6,550. Adding the Zeiss optic would bring the total up to $8,449.

While $6,550 is nothing to sneeze at, it is comparable to the price of rifles built by competing companies. With this price comes an explicit guarantee of both accuracy and reliability. AllTerra guarantees that rifles will shoot sub 0.5-m.o.a. three-shot groups with premium factory ammunition and sub 0.25-m.o.a. groups with AllTerra Arms’ own handloads. It also pledges that the rifle will cycle in all conditions and will show no significant change in accuracy when shooting different bullet weights.

I tested the Mountain Carbon Hunter with three different hunting loads: AllTerra’s own handloads that used a 143-grain Hornady ELD-X bullet, Hornady’s new Outfitter 130-grain CX load and a 140-grain Berger load from Gunwerks.

The test rifle came with a test target showing two three-shot groups with an average of 0.17 inch shot on two different dates by two different shooters. I have no reason to doubt the veracity of those targets, but I was incapable of shooting groups that tight with this rifle.

My best results came with AllTerra Arms’ own ammunition and averaged 0.48 inch. That is absolutely nothing to sneeze at, and I would happily hunt with this rifle and load all day long.

I have yet to encounter a hunting scenario where the ability to shoot a 0.25-m.o.a. group was necessary. That said, I was unable to shoot the rifle to a level that would meet the company’s strict accuracy guarantee with this optic and any of the three loads I had access to. As for the other elements of the guarantee, I can report that point-of-impact shifts were minimal between the three ammo types, and reliability was 100 percent.

This is an obviously well-built and well-thought-out rifle. I can find no flaws with its construction or performance. It is light and portable without losing practical shootability, and the fit and finish are excellent. In this chambering, this Mountain Carbon Hunter could be a do-it-all rifle for all but the largest of North American game. At this price point, it’s not a rifle for everyone, but the premium components and quality construction displayed throughout come at a premium.

Allterra Arms Mountain Shadow Carbon Specifications

• Type: Bolt-action centerfire
• Caliber: .22-250, 6mm Creedmoor, 6.5 Creedmoor, 6.5 PRC (tested), 7mm PRC, 7mm Rem. Mag., 7mm Rem. SA Ultra Mag, .280 Ackley, .28 Nosler, .308 Win., .300 WSM, .300 Win. Mag., .300 PRC, .300 Rem. Ultra Mag, .30 Nosler, .33 Nosler
• Capacity: 3+1
• Barrel: 20 in., 1:8 twist, threaded 5/8×24, muzzle brake
• Overall Length: 41 in.
• Weight: 6 lb., 4 oz.
• Finish: Graphite Black Cerakote
• Stock: Pillar-bedded synthetic
• Sights: None; drilled and tapped for scope
• Safety: 2-position rocker
• Trigger: TriggerTech Primary single-stage, 2.1 lb. pull (measured)
• Price: $6,550 as tested; $8,449 w/optic
• Manufacturer: AllTerra Arms, AllTerraArms.com

This article will list the best 13 white bass fishing lures. Since hybrid bass are very similar in habits, this list applies to them as well. Anglers fishing for white bass and hybrid bass often find them in large schools, feeding aggressively. Therefore, the best white bass and hybrid bass fishing lures are compact and cast well. White bass and hybrid bass are found throughout the country, particularly in the Midwest.

The best 13 white bass fishing lures and hybrid bass fishing lures are;

• Acme Kastmaster spoon
• Blakemore Road Runner lure
• Rat-L-Trap Tiny Trap
• Mann’s Little George
• Mepps spinners
• Bass Assassin grub on a jig head
• Rapala Husky Jerk plug
• Rebel Pop-R topwater plug
• Johnson Beetle spin spinnerbait
• Johnson Sprite spoon
• Mister Twister curly tail grub on a jig head
• Hopkins jigging spoon
• Rapala Shad Rap crankbait

White bass and hybrid bass characteristics and habits

Special thanks to Jamie Smith for the great pics and info! She loves fishing and fitness and lives in Texas. Follow Jamie on Instagram for more great pics!

White bass do not grow very large. The world record is 6 pounds, 13 ounces. However, most white bass caught are around a foot long. They are quite aggressive and are often found in large schools. Many anglers target them as they feed actively on the surface. Both white bass and hybrid bass have varied diets, but feed primarily on bait fish as they mature. White bass are found in larger lakes and river systems. They spawn in the tributary rivers in the spring.

Hybrid white bass are a mix of white bass and striped bass. They grow larger than white bass, growing to over 20 pounds, and can be distinguished by the broken lateral stripes on the lower half of the fish. Hybrid bass exhibit many of the same habits as white bass. The same artificial lures work well when fishing for both white bass and hybrid bass.

White bass fishing tackle

Spinning tackle is the best choice for anglers targeting white bass. White bass lures are small and light, matching the shad, minnows, and other forage that white bass feed on. Ultralight rods and reels are usually the best choice.

A 6 foot light rod with a 1000 series reel spooled up with 6 pound line is an excellent all round combination for anglers fishing for white bass. This will cover most situations where white bass and hybrid bass will be encountered. Anglers fishing in areas where larger hybrid bass are available can certainly bump up the tackle a bit.

Here is a link to a nice ultralight fishing rod and reel combo from Amazon

“Fishing Lido Key is a participant in the Amazon Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. ”

Best 13 white bass fishing lures

Here is Capt Jim’s list of the best 13 white bass fishing lures. As mentioned above, white bass and hybrid bass feed aggressively. Therefore, lures that offer a fast, erratic presentation are usually the best choice. Many anglers chase “breaking” fish. These are hybrid bass and white bass that are feeding on shad and herring on the surface. Anglers often need to make quick, long casts to get in on the action. Small, compact lures and light lines are the most effective for this application.

Acme Kastmaster spoon

The Acme Kasmaster spoon is the perfect spoon for fishing for white bass and hybrid bass. It is first on the list of the best 13 white bass fishing lures. The Kastmaster is a slender spoon with a unique action. It casts well and can be fished throughout the entire water column, from breaking fish to vertical jigging. These spoons available in many sizes, 1/8 ounce and ¼ ounce are the most popular sizes for white bass fishing. Chrome, gold, and “split” finishes work great.

Blakemore Road Runner lure

The Blakemore Road Runner is a terrific white bass fishing lure! It sort of combines two great lures in one; a spinner and a jig. Road runner lures are compact and cast fairly well for their light weight. The 1/8 ounce and ¼ ounce sizes are best. White, chartreuse, and pink are top colors. They can be cast into breaking fish as well as working submerged structure, points, and channel edges.

Bill Lewis Rat-L-Trap Tiny Trap

The Bill Lewis Tiny Trap is a small version of the venerable Rat-L-Trap, a lure that has been catching fish for decades. It is a great example of a lipless crankbait. Tiny traps are third on the list of the best 13 white bass fishing lures. These lures vibrate and rattle when retrieved through the water. They work very well for casting to fish on the surface as well as blind casting. It is an outstanding search bait and can be trolled as well.

Mann’s Little George

The Mann’s Little George is an old school bait that has been around a long time. It was designed by legendary angler Tom Mann. Little George lures are quite dense and compact and can be cast a very long distance. It is a terrific lure to use on busting fish, particularly when they are a bit spooky. It also is very effective in a vertical presentation when white bass and hybrid bass are schooled up deep over structure.

Mepps Spinners

Most freshwater anglers are familiar with Mepps spinners. They have been used to catch a wide variety of species, and white bass are no exception. Mepps spinners work best in the spring when white bass have moved into tributary rivers to spawn. Spinners in general are excellent lures in rivers. They can also be trolled effectively.

Bass Assassin 2″ Crappie Dapper on a jig head

The jig and grub combo is one of the most effective fishing lures in both fresh and salt waters. It will catch just about every species that swims. Capt Jim prefers the Bass Assassin line of baits. They offer a variety of sizes and colors. The 2” Crappie Dapper on a 1/8 ounce jig head is a good all round white bass fishing lure. The 3 ½ inch Die Dapper is a better choice when larger hybrid bass are feeding on bigger shad and herring.

These lures are quite versatile. They can be cast, both blind casting and into breaking fish, as well, as trolled and presented vertically. White and chartreuse are top colors. These baits work very well when fish are a bit less active and react better to a more subtle presentation.

Rapala Husky Jerk plug

Jerkbaits are very effective white bass and hybrid bass fishing lures. They have a very erratic action and put out a bunch of flash and vibration. They very realistically mimic wounded bait fish. There are many fine jerkbaits on the market. Capt Jim’s personal favorite for freshwater fishing is the Rapala Husky Jerk. It is fairly economical and comes in a variety of sizes and colors. Lighter shad patterns as well as silver and gold in the 08 size work great. They can be cast and trolled.

Rebel Pop-R topwater plug

Topwater plugs are both great fun to fish and are extremely productive in the right situation. They are a natural fit when white bass are feeding on the surface. Capt Jim’s favorite freshwater topwater plug is the Rebel Pop-R. It has a concave face which puts out a loud “pop” when twitched sharply. They also work well when fish have moved shallow near shoreline cover. Pop-R plugs are 8th on the list of the best 13 white bass fishing lures.

Johnson Beetle spin spinnerbait

Spinnerbaits are terrific fishing lures. While they really do not look like anything that white bass or hybrid bass feed on, they put out flash and vibration. They combine a jig and a spinner in one unit. Capt Jim’s favorite freshwater lure is the Johnson Beetle spin. It is a compact spinnerbait with a short, grub body. The 1/8 ounce and ¼ ounce baits in black, white, and green are great choices. They work best when cast and retrieved when white bass are in fairly shallow water.

Johnson Sprite spoon

The Johnson Sprite spoon is a great example of a classically shaped spoon. It has the teardrop shape and puts out a great wobble that flashed and vibrates. It really mimics a wounded bait fish. The Sprite spoon works best when cast out and reeled back in using an erratic retrieve. They can also be trolled as well. The ¼ ounce model in gold or silver works best.

Mister Twister curly tail grub on a jig head

Mister Twister revolutionized fishing back in the mid 70’s when they introduced the Mister Twister curly tail grub. A curly tail grub has incredible action in the water when simply reeled in. It can be used to fish the entire water column. It is very effective when bounced down a sloping point or over a ledge. It also works great when whit bass are in the rivers. The 3” grub on a 1/8 ounce jig head works great. White and chartreuse are top colors.

Hopkins jigging spoon

The Hopkins jigging spoon is a bit of a specialty bait. While it can be cast out, it is almost always used in a vertical presentation when white bass and hybrid bass are schooled up over structure in deep water. It is one of the best baits for suspended fish of all bass species. Silver with a hammered finish is by far the top finish. ¼ ounce is a good size for white bass.

Rapala Shad Rap crankbait

Crankbaits are last, but certainly not least, on the list of best 13 white bass fishing lures. Crankbaits differ from jerkbaits in a couple of ways. They are wider and better resemble shad and herring. They are can be purchased with larger lips that cause them to dive fairly deep. Capt Jim’s favorite crankbait is the Rapala Shad Rap. It comes in shallow and deep models in a variety of sizes and colors. It is an excellent trolling lure as well.

In conclusion, this article on the best 13 white bass fishing lures will help anglers catch more of both white and hybrid bass!

If you have ever met a snake before, chances are you’re familiar with their adrenaline-spiking hissing sound.

But did you know snakes can make a variety of sounds?

Yes, snakes have no vocal codes like humans. But they have evolved to produce several sounds and noises that play a vital role in their survival.

In this post, we will dive into the captivating world of snake sounds and noises, uncovering their purpose and significance.

So, join us on this wild, exciting journey!

Types of Snakes That Produce Sounds and Noises

What comes to your mind when you think of snake sounds? Venomous (poisonous) snakes, right?

It’s true that venomous snake species, like cobras and rattlesnakes, produce a range of sounds as a defense measure.

However, non-venomous species like bull snakes can also create different sounds and noises.

But why do they produce these sounds? Well, continue to the next section for the answer.

Purpose of the Snake’s Sounds and Noises

Snake vocalizations are not just random wild noises; they have a purpose, including:

• Communication: Perhaps the primary reason snakes produce distinct sounds and noises is for communication. But here’s something interesting: Snakes don’t use their unique auditory cues for communicating with other snakes. These sounds are meant for potential snake predators. As a fact, the frequency of snake sounds like hissing is too high for other snakes to hear. That means, a snake cannot hear another snaking hissing.
• Defense Mechanism: Snake sounds can also act as a defense mechanism. By hissing or producing growls or spine-tingling rattles, the snake can warn predators to stay away.
• To Show Aggression: The “sssssss” snake sound could also show aggression, especially in ball pythons. If provoked, snakes might hiss and flicker their tongue quickly to defend themselves.
• Territorial Display: Snake sounds can also help them define their territory. A snake might hiss at humans and animals who encroach on their space to ward them off. The sound act as a deterrent, effectively telling intruders to back off.

Types of Noises and Sounds Snakes Make

1. Hissing

A snake’s hiss is unmistakable and super terrifying. Like a dog’s growl, the hiss warns invaders, prey, and predators.

However, wild snakes usually hiss more than snakes in cages. The reason is that the former is exposed to dangers more frequently than the latter. So, they often react to danger or uncertain situations by hissing?

How Does a Snake Produce the Hissing Sound?

Have you ever tried hissing before?

It’s easy! Place your tongue behind your teeth and force air between the opening.

However, that’s not how hissing works in snakes.

These creatures can’t make a lot of different shapes with their mother. As a result, they can produce a lot of different noises.

But they have a secret weapon: the glottis. This is a little hole right underneath the snake’s tongue that connects to the windpipe.

The glottis allows the animal to breathe when swallowing its meal. It also helps the snake produce the sound of a hiss, thanks to a small piece of cartilage inside it.

When a snake exhales through the glottis, the cartilage vibrates, creating a hissing sound. It also gives the hissing extra volume.

Even interesting:

Some snake species like the bullsnake can change their hiss to mimic a rattle. Because the snake is non-venomous, the rattling noise helps them intimidate predators.

While hissing, snakes also poke out their tongues to smell the predator and take the safest route to escape.

When Do Pet Snakes Hiss?

• When Startled: If you catch a pet snake off guard, it might hiss out of fear. It’s normal for baby snakes to hiss more because they are still getting used to the environment and human owners. To prevent this, first touch the snake softly to alert it you are about to pick it up.
• When Annoyed: Sometimes, snakes want to enjoy their peace undisturbed. If you try to pick one up, it might hiss back at you to express displeasure. So, leave it alone until it’s in a merry mood.
• When Digesting Food: Experts recommend allowing the snake to relax after ingesting a large meal. This can take 3 to 5 days, depending on the snake’s size and amount of food. If you lift the snake after the meal, it will probably hiss to express dissatisfaction.
• When It’s About to Shade: Snakes shed their skin about four times annually. So, leave it alone during this time to avoid upsetting it. If you attempt to touch or pick it up during the shedding process, it may feel nervous and hiss to express itself.

2. Rattling

You can identify rattlesnakes by their distinctive rattle sound, particularly the Western Diamondback Rattlesnake.

But did you know rattlesnakes are not the only snakes that shake their tails?

We have other dangerous snakes, including:

• Cottonmouths
• Copperheads
• Terciopelos
• Cantills
• Bushmasters (These snakes even have spine-like scales at the tip of their tails for a louder sound)

Here’s a list of non-venomous snake species that also shake their tails:

• Corn snakes
• Gopher snakes
• Rat snakes
• Kingsnakes

These snakes produce rattling sounds by shaking their tails, which consist of interlocking segments made from keratin. Yes! The stuff that makes up your finger and toenails.

These interlocking segments are loosely attached. As a result, they move back and forth when the snake shakes its tail, producing a rattle.

As the snake grows and sheds its skin, a new segment forms and is added to the rattle, causing it to lengthen over time. But a long rattle doesn’t necessarily mean a loud sound. That would be the speed and intensity of the tail vibration.

For venomous snakes, the tail shaking serves as a warning to predators. It also serves as a diversion, directing the attacker’s attention to the tail. This can lead to confusion and prevent an attack.

As for non-poisonous snakes, tail vibrations help them mimic dangerous snake species and shield themselves from predators. This is what is called Batesian mimicry.

3. Bellowing

The bull, gopher, and pine snake can produce bellows when threatened or attacked by a predator. Unlike hisses, bellows are distinctively loud and can leave you frozen in your tracks.

These snakes bellow by forcing air via the larynx. Within the larynx is the laryngeal septum (vocal coder), which vibrates to produce the spine-chilling bellowing sound.

Usually, this sound has a short period of high amplitude (loud noise) followed by a long period of low amplitude (quieter noise).

4. Growling

You would think a bellow is the most unique snake vocalization. But wait till you learn that some species have evolved to growl when agitated. One such snake is the king of cobra.

The king cobra is considered one of the largest venomous snake species in the world. While it might look intimidating, it’s usually timid unless it feels threatened.

When a king cobra spots a threat, it might slither to safer areas. It might also inflate its hood, which comprises several air sacs to look bigger and intimidate the attacker.

Additionally, it may produce a scary growl that sounds like it belongs to a lion or dog instead of a snake.

Additional Snakes Sounds and Noises

Besides the vocalizations mentioned above, here are some creepy snake sounds worth checking out:

• Puffing: It is no surprise to hear your pet snake puff and huff at night or when feeding. This rings true for snake species, like boas and carpet pythons. The puffs and huffs could also show the snake’s frustration.
• Shrieking: Snakes that bellow like the pine snake can also produce a shriek in response to danger. All thanks to its distinctive vocal cord.
• Whistling: Some snakes like Russel vipers and corn snakes whistle.
• Rasping: Some snakes produce rasping sounds by rubbing their scale together. For example, saw-scaled vipers (native to Africa and Asia), will assume an “S” shape and rub their scale together to make a noise similar to a hiss. The purpose of the sound is to scare away predators.

What To Do During a Snake Encounter

Snakes are typically timid and avoid human contact and confrontation whenever possible. So, if you encounter one on your property, it is more likely the snake is scared of you than you are of it.

Below, we’ve provided you with the best ways to deal with a hissing snake and ensure the safety of both parties.

• Stay Calm: Panicking only increases the likelihood of sudden movements. This can disturb or frighten the slithering creature. As a defense response, the snake might hiss or even attack you.
• Note the Sound: Snake species make sounds, such as hissing, rattling, or growling. Identify the type of sound and, if possible, try to identify the snake and the threat level. This information might guide your next actions.
• Allow the Snake Some Space: Snakes frequently make sounds as a defensive mechanism, signaling a threat. Respect the snake’s personal space and avoid approaching or handling it. Maintain a safe distance to prevent snake bites and lower the risk of escalating aggression.
• Back Away: If you encounter a snake and it makes noises, it’s best to back away from the scene. Also, maintain eye contact with the snake, as it will be aware of your movements. Create distance by retreating slowly and smoothly while avoiding sudden or threatening gestures.
• Seek Professional Help: In certain situations, it’s wise to call your local animal control or professional snake removal service. These experts possess the skills and equipment to handle and relocate the snake, safely.

Closing Thoughts

Snakes have a fearsome reputation. But surprisingly, these creatures are typically shy and often avoid human interactions. They naturally keep their distance when they sense human or predator presence.

However, when threatened or cornered, they can produce a lot of different sounds to warn, intimidate or divert the attention of invaders or predators.

Most individuals are familiar with the snake’s hiss. But these animals can also growl, buzz, rattle, shriek, whistle, and rasp. This shows the remarkable diversity of snake vocalizations.

Overall, learning about snake sounds and noises helps you better appreciate their communication methods. This way, you can prevent dangerous encounters, especially with venomous species.

Thank you for stopping by! If you have any questions, inform us in the comment section.

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If you own a taxidermy mount, it is always a good thing to keep it clean. Keeping it clean prevents unwanted guests from touching your taxidermy. Suppose there are any concerns about insects damaging your taxidermy. In that case, it is important to occasionally inspect your mount-especially around the mouth, antlers, and around the ears- for signs of any pests.

Cleaning your mounts often ensures that they look fresh and lifelike. Depending on the type of mount you have, the cleaning process will vary from one to the other. Here are a few tips on how to clean and care for Taxidermy Bird Mounts.

Dust your bird regularly

Cleaning your bird mount is crucial as it ensures that dirt or dust does not build up. The frequency of dusting your bird depends on the place you live, among other factors. People who live in dustier areas will need to do the cleaning more often.

When removing excess dust, a feather duster works well. You can also dust your bird mounts by gently brushing them using a cotton ball in the direction of the feathers. In addition to that, you can also use a hairdryer at arms-length to de-dust your bird regularly.

Please make sure the hairdryer is in its most relaxed and lowest setting and use it in the same direction as the feathers to avoid damages. Do all this instead of using solvents. The birds’ feathers usually have some natural oil that several solvents can strip, leaving them more brittle.

All the skin surface of birds such as legs, the skin around the eye, beaks, and featherless skin areas for some birds like the vultures’ neck and the head is some species have preparators painted on them. Cleaning these places with solvents may not work well with preparators. As a result, using solvents should only be a last resort.

In cases where you must remove dust on bird taxidermy mounts held by grease emanating from poorly prepared skins, you will have to use some solvents cautiously. Make sure you are using gentle solvents and take your time.

Start by using simple distilled water and barely-damp swabs and see if that solves the problem. If the dust is stubborn enough, move up and use non-denatured 70% ethanol. It is doubtful you will find any dusty taxidermy specimen that requires anything more potent than the non-denatured 70% ethanol.

Do not immerse the specimen in any solvent or leave it wet. Do not wet the skin of your bird mount unless it is a featherless area. If you also wet the featherless skin areas, be sure to dry them thoroughly. Birds have fragile skin, and moisture can quickly wick through it, making it swell and split.

Use lacquer thinner

If your Taxidermy Bird Mounts have residual dust on the feather, experts recommend we avoid using water. Water tends to matte and messes up with the feathers. Instead, lightly dampen a rag with lacquer thinner and wipe the mount off. The feathers absorb lacquer thinner as it evaporates, quickly bringing out the shiny bit of the bird’s feathers. When brushing your bird, be sure to wipe it gently and in the same direction as the feathers. However, it would be best if you stayed away from all painted areas.

Keep it out of the sun

Your Taxidermy Bird Mounts need to be displayed prominently but be sure where you put them. Avoid placing your mounts in direct sunlight. Direct sunlight will breach the feathers of your bird, making them fade.

To ensure that you maintain the original richness and vibrant colors of your birds’ feathers, keep them out of direct sunlight. Place your mount near a window, and they will soon succumb to damage because of too much presence of ultraviolet (UV) light.

For white-coated birds, the UV light will change them to yellow. For bird mounts with darker colors, they will become bleached. If the only place to showcase your birds is near a sunny window, make sure you install quality UV blocking window films.

Be wary of smoke

From wood-burning stoves and burning logs in fireplaces to smoking cigarettes and cigars indoors, it is essential to know that smoke can ruin your Taxidermy Bird Mounts. Therefore, avoid displaying your mounts over smoke-producing fixtures or hanging your prized taxidermy trophies in your cigar room.

In addition, prolonged exposure of your artworks to smoke will discolor them. To clean smoke damage from your taxidermy, you need to follow a few steps:

• In a bucket of warm water, mix three droplets of dish soap.
• Agitate the solution to make a sudsy solution
• Get a clean sponge and saturate it in the sudsy soap solution
• Squeeze out all the excess solution from the sponge so that it is damp but not soaking wet
• Wipe the stuck smoke gently and in the direction of the feathers

Use OdorXit to eliminate odor in Taxidermy Bird Mounts

Do you have a bird mount that is smelling like rancid fat or meat? Smelling mounts can often be worrying, and at the same time, can put you in a dilemma on the next step to take. Birds have feathers, and their bones are very thin and fragile.

How can you remove the fat and muscle without destroying the feathers and skin of your taxidermy bird?

Most taxidermy trophy owners ask themselves this question. The answer is, you can inject small amounts of 20 to 1 OdorXit solution into the fingers and wing joints. OdorXit eliminates the odor quickly. To take care of the exterior odor, spray 30 to 1 OdorXit solution onto the feathers and skin.

Your taxidermy mount always deserves the best treatment and care. That is why you need to work with professional and compassionate bird taxidermist who understand and care about your pet. If your mounts crack or become brittle, they can restore them. If your fur/feathers are not in good shape, or you have a cracked tongue or nose, the taxidermist can re-clay them. They always ensure that your bird is in perfect condition every time you mount it. With tips and experience possessed by taxidermists, they will make sure your artwork lasts forever.