There is a universal question among turkey hunters, usually asked in the predawn while the coffee is being made. What will this weather do to the turkeys? We’ve always been told and assumed that birds gobble best when it’s clear, calm, and warm. Nice days and dogwoods, after all, are part of the allure of spring hunting.

But hunting seasons are short and spring is turbulent, and so if you wait for the perfect weather to go hunting, you might not get to go at all. For turkey hunters, one saving grace is that the birds are diurnal — daytime critters — and so almost regardless of what the weather is doing, they are on the ground, somewhere, and can be hunted. One time a buddy and I ditch-slipped a Nebraska longbeard during a tornado warning. Smart? Not at all. But possible.

Turkeys have another saving grace, too. They have waited all year to breed, and a little bad weather doesn’t change their intentions. In fact, I’ve learned, a crummy forecast usually bothers me more than it does the birds.

Just last week in Texas, one of our hunting days was forecast to be 94 degrees (it actually reached 96) with a sustained 30-mph wind. A wildfire had ravaged the ranch we were hunting only a few weeks earlier, and so the dry air was laced with black soot. But before those Winds of Hell began to blow, the morning broke in a fog so thick it seemed I could’ve cut a slice of it from the sky and set it in my truck for later.

Will they even gobble in the fog like this? my buddy Miles wondered aloud.

Not much, and it seems like the fog keeps them in the tree forever, I said, matter-of-factly. Fifteen minutes later, a pair of vocal longbeards strutted right through the soup to our gun barrels. Miles killed one and I missed the other.

(Don’t Miss: 10 Reasons Why You Suck at Calling Turkeys)

A few hours later, the forecast was living up to the hype. Maybe I’ve seen it hit 90 degrees a time or two during the late season in Tennessee, but I wouldn’t swear to it. The Texas wind and heat felt like the rush of opening a broiling oven after something greasy has oozed onto the elements. Turkeys won’t do anything in this, I said, again matter-of-factly, as we cruised ranch roads and glassed under shade trees.

Then we topped a hill where two Rio Grande gobblers were strutting in the blazing sun. One of them gobbled at the truck. We cruised a half mile past them, made a wide loop to set up, and called them right in. Michelle, my wife, killed one at 12:04 p.m. At that point, having been 100% wrong on all of the day’s turkey behavior predictions, I made the safe bet that everyone else was probably at least as hungry as me. Let’s go get some barbecue and try again this afternoon, I suggested.

Listen to the Realtree Outpost Podcast from this hunt:

When in Doubt, Go Hunt

The other day, before Texas, a buddy of mine from Alabama called and said, I slept in this morning because it was cloudy and raining. I think I messed up, because it’s pretty outside now. He’d been having a good spring to that point, with several close calls but no trigger pulled. Since my season at home wasn’t open yet, I was living vicariously through him, and I also felt compelled to suggest what the turkeys would be doing at that very moment in another state, on a property I’d never seen. Channeling Dr. Phil, I told my buddy that many times in the past, I’ve forced myself to get up and go hunt and I’ve never regretted it, even when I didn’t get a bird. When I have slept in, though, I’ve almost universally woken up feeling sorry for myself.

Point being, go hunting and see what happens, I said.

The next morning, my buddy waited out a predawn deluge, and then he heard a turkey gobble at the departing thunder as he was gathering his gear. He sent me pictures of that bird later in the day, lying dead on his tailgate, with the words, How ’bout that, Ol’ Son?

Not that it offered much hope back in Texas. The winds were still raging as I watched the sun fade behind the live oaks that evening, but it seemed as though at least one of my predictions would hold true: Turkeys wouldn’t do squat that evening, hot as it was. Miles was tagging along with me — the first time he’d ever been unarmed in Texas, he said — and we decided to sit within earshot of a creek bottom, where turkeys often roost. With less than an hour of shooting light remaining, I hit my box call, thinking maybe I’d get a bird to shock gobble before fly-up. The answering gobble was so faint I thought I might’ve imagined it, but Miles heard it too.

No way we’re killing that bird, I whispered. He’s a mile away, and they’ll be flying up any minute. Shoot, he’s probably up in a tree right now, gobbling from the limb.

But when he gobbled again a few minutes later, I realized he’d cut half the distance. I popped in a mouth call and yelped, and he roared back from the dark timber, so close I could feel the rattle in his throat. Then I saw him, strutting across the pasture toward me, a mere silhouette in the fading light. But when he got to 25 yards, I could see his white head pretty good.

(Don’t Miss. Seriously. Never Miss a Gobbler Again)

In 28 seasons of hunting, I’ve never killed a gobbling turkey any later in the day than that one. Never worked one at high noon when it was 94 degrees, either. Nor have I ever seen a turkey pitch into a blinding fog and tear right through it, drumming and gobbling so furiously I never lost track of him, before ultimately revealing himself within gun range.

That day, I saw all the above, and in every instance predicted that the turkey would do the exact opposite of what he actually did.

Sometimes, it’s best to just shut your mouth and go hunting.

Underwater cameras have been used in commercial fishing for decades, primarily as a means of providing visual confirmation for sonar data or environmental observations. However, these commercial units were large, heavy, expensive, and very limited in their capabilities. Since most open water, especially ocean water, is opaque due to suspended particles and living organisms, the ability of cameras to provide useful information is limited. Underwater cameras were used by the commercial fishing industry to confirm the presence of underwater obstacles that would wreck ships or foul nets.

The advent of small, inexpensive digital cameras in the late 90s made it possible for sport fishermen to begin purchasing and using such cameras. Smaller and with simpler options than those on the large commercial units, these underwater cameras have evolved to be inexpensive, easy to deploy, and capable of functioning without being continuously connected to a boat’s power system or on-shore power source.

Underwater Cameras for Ice Fishing

While they have become popular with lake and littoral fishermen who want to observe underwater hazards and fish populations to better understand their favorite fishing spot, underwater cameras have proven to be the most useful to ice fishermen. Since ice fishermen must put time and effort into each hole they drill and each line they drop, knowing exactly what is below before they drop their lines is crucial. The use of underwater cameras is especially useful in that the cameras are designed with the ability to fit into holes much smaller than is required for fishing. This means that small “test holes” can be drilled to see if an area is worth fishing before fishermen drop their lines. Ice fishermen can also see much further underwater than those who are fishing in active waters, since the lack of wave action and cold water combine to make the water extremely clear, enabling cameras with lights to show off a very large area and even highlight fish as they wait out the winter.

Underwater cameras are becoming a necessary piece of equipment for any serious ice fisherman, especially those who want to optimize their catch. Such cameras can also prevent a fisherman from spending hours out on the ice dropping lines where there are no fish, as well as alert them to the presence of obstacles and hazards that would snag and ruin their lines. They are easy to carry and can be set up in seconds, enabling fishermen to quickly drill a test hole, take a look around, and then either expand or abandon the hole based on what he sees.

What’s Important in an Underwater Camera

This doesn’t mean that all underwater cameras are made equal, nor that fishermen can rely on getting a good one without learning anything about them. Many units are too cheap or too simple to be useful or are ill suited to the extreme weather conditions inherent in ice fishing. So what should you look for? The first thing would be insulation of some sort for the unit itself and especially the battery. LiPo batteries that get too cold can have water condense inside of them, causing them to short out and catch fire, so it’s important to keep them reasonably warm. Fortunately, they produce their own heat when running, so as long as the camera has insulation around the battery, it will function properly at cold temperatures.

Second, the line and camera must be insulated with cold-tolerant materials which will not become brittle when exposed to below freezing temperatures. Natural rubber needs to be thus avoided, and all of the waterproofing on the unit needs to be made of silicone or other similar synthetic materials. Third, the camera needs to have a large camera aperture and large pixel resolution. Be aware too that water largely blocks infrared light, and so infra-red cameras won’t be able to see as far as those which focus on visible light, especially in the blue end of the spectrum. Lastly, the camera needs to have an IP68 rating. This means that the camera has been developed specifically to be immersed in the water below one meter (a little more than a yard) and will not fail if thus immersed.

Which Underwater Camera to Choose

Fortunately, there are several affordable cameras on the market which meet all of these requirements.

1. Marcum VS485C

The Marcum VS485C is a top-of-the-line unit specifically intended for ice fishing, as is indicated by its insulated carrying bag and handle. Even the sun shield is optimized for dealing with the glare that comes off of white snow, which is an excellent feature that helps the 7″ screen to be very visible even on cloudless winter days. The system uses large, easy-to-press buttons instead of a touch screen, and has been engineered with winter gloves in mind. The 800×480 resolution picture is adequate for the task at hand, and the screen is made by Sony, and thus subject to Sony’s stringent quality standards. The camera is also produced by Sony and has the necessary IP68 rating.

In addition to a wide-spectrum light, which has sufficient power to cut through all but the cloudiest lakes, the Marcum VS485C has multiple fin stabilizers to prevent both horizontal and vertical movement. Since most units only have one vertical fin to prevent spinning, instead relying on tension from the camera line to prevent vertical motion, the Marcum VS485C offers a much more stable picture than other units. The 50-foot cable is specifically engineered to be cold-water resistant and can transmit in both color and black-and-white. It’s this last feature that is of most use to ice fishermen since, in the low light of frozen lakes, the increased contrast of black-and-white transmissions can make clear what would otherwise be difficult to distinguish. Additionally, it has “Darkwater” LED lighting options, in addition to the broad-spectrum option, which provides better illumination in deep water. This is achieved by broadcasting more light in the blue spectrum, then interpreting it in black-and-white, to produce as high a contrast image as possible.

2. Vexilar FS800 Fish Scout

The Vexilar FS800 Fish Scout is a high-end unit specifically engineered for cold weather, although it is also intended to be smaller, lighter and more portable than other units. Like most high-end units it is built around Sony technology, with both the screen and camera being Sony commercial units. It can function at up to -22F, meaning that it should be more than adequate for most ice-fishing situations, although it may be necessary to operate it within a shelter on the coldest days. The screen displays in 480 x 234 pixels, which is adequate for the 7″ screen, although some fishermen may find it to be a bit low to capture some details if the light is good enough to illuminate them. The installed light on the camera has a broad spectrum beam, suitable for cutting through the murkiest water. The camera has only one stabilization fin, but the wide, flat design is intended to keep it from tilting or twisting horizontally and has ballast to help it remain properly aligned.

The 50-foot cable is more than adequate for most lakes, since depth below 50 feet is usually too opaque, even with artificial light, to be seen through. The a-SI TFT active matrix display is bright and accurate, although with only 420 lines of resolution some details may be obscured. Still, in the low-light environment inherent in ice fishing, much of the detail will be lost simply by not having enough light, even with artificial lights mounted on the unit. The Sony Super HAD CCD can see in light as dim as .01 Lux, enabling it to function even in very dark waters. Additionally, with a battery that can function for up to nine hours on a charge, the Vexilar FS800 Fish Scout is ideal for ice fishermen who want to wander far from shore or shelter in search of good fishing spots, since it will remain warm, functioning, and charged the entire time. It also has large buttons, ideal for operating when wearing gloves.

3. Aqua-Vu AV715c

The Aqua-Vu AV715c is primarily focused for use in warm water. However, it is capable of functioning in ice fishing conditions, especially when used in a shelter. Due to having less insulation than other units, it is necessary to keep it insulated or at least powered on during cold weather operation, however, the camera can handle up to -22F, as can the cable, thus eliminating any worries about it being damaged by cold weather conditions. The onboard battery comes with battery management software designed to extend life as long as possible, enabling it to function for up to 12 hours under ideal conditions. The entire unit is waterproof and designed to withstand submersion, and in addition to its carrying case, it can fit perfectly into a standard five-gallon bucket, making it easy to pack and carry. The unit also has its own handle, and the cable winds around the base of the unit, helping to keep it tidy and prevent it from being damaged.

The Aqua-Vu AV715c has a standard RCA out. Therefore, if you have a TV in your shelter, you can display the image on a screen bigger and brighter than the provided 7″ screen, although it is more than adequate for most situations. The camera is capable of detecting light in a broad spectrum and has low-light sensing technology, as well as infrared technology, however, it is primarily intended for situations with some natural light. The stabilization fin doubles as a means of hanging the camera by different angles thanks to wire clips built into its sides. The system uses buttons rather than a touch screen, making it easy to operate when wearing gloves.

4. Wosports Underwater Fishing Camera

The Wosports Underwater Fishing Camera is intended to be an all-purpose, entry-level model intended for use by those who want something that will be simple and get the job done while remaining as affordable as possible. As such, its components and insulation are not as robust as other models, but they are more than adequate for most ice-fishing situations. The camera has full IP68 waterproofing. However, the display and battery are only waterproof when the box is sealed and closed, meaning it’s a good idea to keep this unit away from the hole when in use. Nonetheless, with 50 feet of cable, this should not be a problem. The 7″ screen is very clear, displaying in a full 1000 lines, and has low-power usage, enabling the camera to run for up to eight hours on a charge. The push-button operation is possible with gloves, but small buttons mean it may be easier inside the shelter without gloves.

The camera provided is adequate for most lighting situations, especially with 12 LED lights included, but it lacks stabilization and fishermen will need to be dependent on tension from the camera wire to produce a steady image. Additionally, the camera has only one mounting point for the wire, on the rear, forcing some quick fishermen’s knots with the wire to hang it in a horizontal position. Interestingly, the unit also contains an SD Card Slot for recording directly on the device, enabling fishermen to easily record what they see for later viewing or uploading online. The camera has a slightly bowed 92-degree viewing angle, enabling fishermen to see more at the cost of having the image slightly distorted.

Waterfowl hunting is tough on gear! The conditions for an amazing day at the marsh, on the lake, in flooded timber, or on the river are the same conditions that will put your gear to the test. Cold fronts, snow cover, and winter storms drive the waterfowl migration south and you can bet you don’t want to miss those new birds arriving to your honey hole. Hunters spend countless hours sorting through decoys, blinds, waders, and calls getting ready for the hunt, but don’t forget to pay special attention to the gun you are taking into the field, and how you expect it to perform. Specifically, make sure you are using the right choke for your waterfowl hunts this season.

Shotgun choke selection is a key decision on any waterfowl hunt. Knowing how your shotgun will perform at various ranges with a selected choke is paramount to successfully bagging more birds. Screw in chokes give hunters the flexibility and confidence to adjust to the hunting situation by having multiple choke choices available. By catering your shotgun choke tube to the hunting situation at hand, you can put more pellets on target when those ducks and geese come cruising in. One key component when it comes to selecting the right choke for the hunt is knowing how your shotgun will perform with each choke tube and shotshell in your bag at various ranges.

Choke tube patterning is an important step to quickly discern how your gun will perform with various shotgun choke tubes at varying distances. A little trigger time at the range will provide incredibly valuable information when it comes time to hunt. Different hunting styles and situations call for changing up your choke tube to be most effective. By patterning your shotgun with choke tubes designed for close, medium, and long ranges, with the ammunition you plan to hunt with, you will have the confidence to get on target. Waterfowl hunting requires non-toxic shot, and many hunters choose steel shot. As a general rule, you should move up one choke size from lead to steel when selecting a choke for your waterfowl hunts. If you would use a full choke with lead shot, move to a modified when shooting steel; from modified with lead to improved with steel, etc. Many manufacturers offer a three pack choke tube package, putting together the appropriate chokes for close range, medium range, and long range situations in one convenient pack; making it easy to use the right tool for the job. Having a three pack variety of choke tubes in your blind bag is one fantastic way to ensure you are ready for whatever the hunting situation calls for.

Close Range Choke Tube

Close Range Hunts

Hunting waterfowl in at close range can produce heart pounding action that is tough to beat. Mallards cupped up and dropping into a small riffle on a frozen river, Canadian geese cruising in fully committed, and ducks dropping into flooded timber are all exhilarating hunts at close range. Targets on close range hunts are generally presented 30 yards and closer, sometimes much closer. It’s critical to select a close range choke for these in your face hunts to be most effective.

Patterning Close Range

To learn how your shotgun patterns a choke and load, take a shot at a paper target with a 15” circular bullseye on a 30” piece of cardboard or paper stock. From a steady rest with a close range, or cylinder (.000 constriction) choke in the shotgun, count the hits on target to determine the effectiveness of the choke tube and shotshell combo. Tweaking variables like shot size and shotshell brand can have an affect on the results. Now that you know what to expect when you’re on target at close range with the appropriate choke, it’s time to try mid range.

Mid Range Choke Tube

Mid Range Hunts

For most of waterfowl hunting, targets are engaged at mid range. Mallards trying to land just outside the decoys, a group of geese making several low passes, or teal fanning up 35 yards from the blind are all real hunting scenarios. Making the most of your shotgun pattern at mid range is critical to the hunt and your success. By taking the time to pattern your shotgun with the ammo you plan to hunt with paired with a mid range choke tube, you will know exactly how your shotgun will perform on target.

Patterning Mid Range

For waterfowl hunters, an improved cylinder (.010) is ideal for mid range targets.

Patterning an improved cylinder choke is the same process as patterning a close range choke tube, but with a new choke. Position a clean target at 35 yards to simulate hunting at mid range and take a shot from a steady rest. Count the number of pellets on target to determine the choke and load effectiveness. It will be easy to see the pattern has tightened up from the shotgun in the improved cylinder tube, this tightening puts more pellets on target at a longer range.

Long Range Choke Tube

Long Range Hunts

Some days the birds just won’t work like you want them to. The fact is, hunting waterfowl can be tough, and you have to take the shots that are available. Whether you find yourself having to take passing shots at birds coming off a lake, or the birds just won’t commit to your decoys; sometimes you have to take those longer shots. Having the right choke in your shotgun for those long shot hunts is more critical than ever, and patterning your shotgun to understand your effective range will give you the confidence to call the shot.

Long Range Patterning

A long range choke constricts the shot pattern to an even higher degree than close or mid range chokes. Modified (.020) chokes work well for long range shots at waterfowl. The process for patterning a long range choke is the same as a close or mid range choke, but at a further distance. Practice shooting your desired hunting load at 40 yards and beyond to see how your pattern holds together, and to realize your effective range.

Duck and goose hunting is a ton of fun, and a fantastic way to enjoy the late season outdoors. Waterfowling offers amazing opportunities for fellowship with friends, and is an ideal way to introduce young people to the outdoors and the hunting way of life. When you head out to the duck blind, goose pit, or marsh this season; make sure all your gear is in order, and that you’ve got the right choke for the job screwed into your shotgun. Selecting the right choke tube will help you put more shots on target, and bring home more limits.

So, you’ve decided to hunt squirrels with a 22 rimfire rifle, and are now searching for the best scope for 22lr squirrel hunting? Listed below you will find my top 8 scope suggestions for a .22 caliber squirrel rifle.

However, like most anything these days, there is a wide range of opinions online about which rifle scopes are ideal or the best for squirrel hunting. I bet if you asked ten different squirrel hunters to name their favorite rifle scope for squirrel hunting, you’d hear ten different answers.

I’m no different than anyone else in terms of having an opinion, except that I’m an avid squirrel hunter myself. While I enjoy all types of hunting, squirrel hunting with a rimfire rifle is still one of my absolute favorite types of hunting, and I try to go as much as my schedule allows.

Because of my love of squirrel hunting, some of the scope suggestions that I make may not be the same as what you may see online as I’m basing those suggestions on real-life experience.

While the 22LR is still my favorite squirrel hunting round, I also occasionally hunt squirrels with other calibers, including a 17 HMR and a 17 Mach II. As I prefer to hunt with a suppressed rifle, most of my squirrel hunting is done with a suppressed .22LR. While I have suppressed 17 HMR rifles and suppressed 17 Mach 2 rifles, the old fashion .22 is still the quietest to shoot.

When it comes to small game hunting, few species are as popular as the squirrel. Squirrels are plentiful, not as complicated to hunt as some big game species, and make for a challenging quarry due to their size and erratic movements.

Some people would argue that squirrels don’t pose much of a hunting challenge, but I’m not talking about the semi-tame squirrels that inhabit the local city parks. I’m talking about hunting wild squirrels that are wary of any predator. Squirrels have above-average eyesight (for a game species), outstanding hearing, and will flee or hide at the slightest hint of danger.

The venerable 22LR rifle is still the go-to rimfire caliber for squirrel hunting based on the following factors:

• The overall popularity of the 22LR caliber
• The availability of decent 22LR ammunition
• The accuracy potential of the caliber
• The availability of rifles chambered in the 22 LR caliber

Each scope that I’ve suggested as a possible 22 caliber squirrel hunting scope has both pros and cons. Let’s get into why I think each of the rifle scope models below is a good option for a squirrel hunting 22LR rifle, and then I’ll go over what to look for in a 22LR squirrel rifle scope in the buyer’s guide down below.

Leupold FX-3 6X

No list of top recommended squirrel hunting scopes would be complete without mentioning a fixed power scope model, and this Leupold FX-3 scope in 6X power fits the bill.

The big selling point with fixed power scopes is simplicity. There are no power dials to turn, no parallax to adjust, no setting to change. You look through the scope viewfinder, put the crosshairs on the squirrel, and pull the trigger.

Sure, there are less expensive fixed power scopes on the market, but this Leupold scope features something those other models don’t have, and that’s outstanding glass. The optical quality of this scope is exceptional for a fixed power model, which is a significant selling point.

Also, like most fixed power scopes, the FX-3 is lightweight at 13.6 ounces, and compact with a length of 13.2 inches.

Most fixed power scopes also offer a wide Field of View (FOV) compared to their adjustable power counterparts, and the FX-3 is no different, offering a staggering 17.3 feet of viewing area at 100 yards.

But like any scope, the FX-3 has the following pros and cons:

Pros Cons Excellent optical clarity and brightness

Is backed by Leupold’s fantastic warranty program

The glass quality makes it excellent for low light shooting at dusk and dawn

Pricey for a fixed power scope (but worth the cost in my book)

This scope features a non-adjustable focus that is factory set at 150 yards.

The FX-3 series is only available with one reticle option, which is a duplex. Other reticle options would be helpful.

Here are the best sales and deals I could find on the Leupold FX-3 scope:

Vortex Crossfire II 2-7×32 Rimfire

If you’re searching for a lightweight and compact variable powered scope for squirrel hunting, then the Vortex Crossfire II 2-7×32 Rimfire scope might be worth a look. The 2-7 power range offers sufficient magnification to comfortably take shots at squirrels at distances up to 50 yards.

Built on a 1-inch tube and weighing in at 14.3 ounces with a length of 10.7 inches, the Crossfire II Rimfire model is specifically marketed as a compact scope built for the .22LR.

This scope is only available in Vortex’s V-Plex reticle and features a fixed 50-yard parallax setting. While I prefer a parallax or focus that will adjust down below the 50-yard mark, I can make do with a fixed 50-yard parallax in this power range.

I like the V-Plex reticle but would also prefer that Vortex offered this scope in a version with the Deadhold BDC reticle as that would potentially provide the shooter the ability to push shots out past the 50-yard mark using the BDC function.

Here are a few pros and cons for the Crossfire II 2-7×32 Rimfire scope:

Pros Cons Lightweight but very durable

Covered under Vortex’s excellent warranty program

The 2-7 magnification range offers enough magnification for the typical shooting distances seen in squirrel hunting.

A very budget-friendly scope option

Fixed 50-yard parallax (I’d prefer an adjustable parallax that would focus down to 25 yards)

Limited to 1 reticle option, and I’d love to see this scope with the DeadHold BDC reticle.

Here are the best deals I could find on the Vortex Crossfire II 2-7 scopes:

BSA Sweet 22 3-9×40

If you’re in the market for a 22LR scope that offers integrated BDC (Bullet Drop Compensator) functionality, then the BSA Sweet 22 in a 3-9×40 configuration might be worth checking out. All the BSA Sweet 22 scope models feature integrated BDC functionality for the 22LR based on the bullet weight.

This scope comes with a multi-grain turret that works with the more popular 22LR bullet weights. Once you sight the scope in using the turret settings that match your bullet weight, you can use the BDC function to shoot out to a maximum distance of 200 yards. Now, I’m not advocating that you try a shot at that distance on a squirrel, but this scope can undoubtedly get you shooting at squirrels accurately out past 75 yards or so.

BSA is typically known as offering entry-level or budget-friendly scopes, so this Sweet 22 model won’t hammer your wallet. Built with multicoated optics, the optical quality is about what you would expect of a rifle scope in this price range.

One of the features that I like about this scope is the side focus that will focus down to 8 yards, which is a beneficial feature in the squirrel woods.

However, the BSA Sweet 22 scope isn’t perfect so here are the things I like and don’t like:

Pros Cons Built-in BDC for the most popular 22LR bullet weights

Side focus that focuses down to 8 yards

An affordable option for the squirrel woods

The optical quality is average at best

Comes with a minimal warranty

Listed below are the best deals and specials I could find on this BSA scope:

Leupold VX-Freedom Rimfire 3-9×40

If the Leupold FX-3 fixed power scope I mentioned above is too pricey for your wallet, but you still are interested in buying a Leupold, then have a look at the Leupold VX-Freedom Rimfire model. This scope is a 3-9×40 scope that is made specifically for a 22LR rimfire rifle.

The VX-Freedom series of scopes feature bright and clear glass, along with the durability that is expected of a Leupold.

With a weight of 12.5 ounces and a length of 12.3 inches, the VX-Freedom Rimfire scope is an ideal option for squirrel hunting with a 22 rifle. This scope is equipped with a 60-yard fixed parallax, coupled with Leupold’s Rimfire MOA reticle.

I’m also a fan of the Leupold VX Freedom EFR 3-9×40 scope for squirrel hunting, but it costs twice as much as the Rimfire version. The EFR model features an adjustable focus that will go down to 10 yards, but I’m not sure that feature is worth a 2X price tag.

Here are a few pros and cons with the VX Freedom 3-9×40 Rimfire scope:

Pros Cons Excellent optical quality for a scope in this price range

Dedicated Rimfire reticle with built-in holdover points

Well-built and covered by the Leupold warranty

Fixed 60-yard parallax (I’d prefer an adjustable parallax that will at least focus under 50 yards).

Features an eye relief that is under the 3″ mark, making it a dedicated rimfire scope only.

While the Rimfire MOA reticle features holdover marks, the shooter has to invest the time to learn the holdover points on his or her own.

Listed below are the best prices and deals I could find on the Leupold VX-Freedom Rimfire 3-9×40 scope:

Bushnell Banner Rimfire 4-12×40 Riflescope

The Banner series of rifle scopes from Bushnell was is explicitly built for rimfire shooters and offers excellent value in terms of price and performance. The 4-12×40 Banner Rimfire model features fully coated lenses for clarity and brightness, blended into a compact optic.

Built on a 1-inch tube, the Banner Rimfire also features an adjustable objective that that will adjust down to 10 yards. The adjustable objective, paired with Bushnell’s Multi-X crosshair reticle, makes this scope ideal for hunting bushy tails.

Like most Bushnell scopes, the Banner Rimfire model offers an excellent Field of View of 29 feet at 4X power and 11.5 feet on 12X power.

Here are a few pros and cons associated with this scope model:

Pros Cons The adjustable objective will focus down to 10 yards, which is very handy when a squirrel pops up on the tree beside you.

This scope offers an excellent performance to cost ratio as its budget-friendly

The optical quality is about what you would expect for a scope in this price range.

While the AO parallax is a plus, I wish Bushnell would offer this model with side focus.

This scope is more of a dedicated rimfire scope as it’s not really built to withstand the long-term recoil of a centerfire rifle.

Here are a few locations I found some good prices on this Bushell Banner Rimfire scope:

Sightron SIH 4-12X40

I’ve always considered the Sightron line of rifle scopes to be a sleeper brand in the scope industry as they don’t do a ton of marketing and are not usually sold in big box outdoor brands (think Cabela’s, Bass Pro, etc.). As such, I’m betting that you won’t see Sightron mentioned very much in any other lists of recommended squirrel hunting scopes.

The Sightron S1H Field and Target line of scopes is a lower-tiered series within the Sightron line that is made for target and hunting uses. The S1H 4-12×40 scope is built on a 1-inch tube and features an adjustable objective that will focus down to 8 yards.

The scope offers fully multicoated lenses, is shockproof and waterproof. Sightron purges this model with Nitrogen to eliminate any internal fogging or condensation.

My two favorite S1H 4-12×40 models are the duplex reticle version and the mil-dot reticle version. While most squirrel hunters opt for the duplex reticle, I prefer the mil-dot reticle because I can use it as a duplex or use the mil-dots as holder over points for longer range shots.

Pros Cons This series is available in 4 different reticles, which means there is a reticle for almost every squirrel hunter.

This model holds zero exceptionally well even with heavy use.

The 4-12 power range is ideal for squirrel hunting in early or late season conditions.

Weighing in at nearly 18 ounces, this scope is a bit heavy for a 4-12.

It comes with the cheapest flip-up lens covers I’ve ever seen.

Here’s a list of the best deals and specials I found for the Sightron S1H 4-12×40 scope models:

Vortex Crossfire II 4-12×40

The Crossfire II series of scopes is one of Vortex’s workhorse series that is built for performance on an entry-level budget. The Crossfire II scopes come in a variety of configurations, but the 4-12×40 is one of my favorites for a 22LR squirrel rifle.

Like all the Crossfire II scope models, the 4-12×40 is equipped with multicoated lenses to enhance the light transmission and fast-focus eyepiece.

This scope is built on a 1-inch tube and features an adjustable objective that will focus down to 10 yards. In addition to the 40mm version of this scope, Vortex also offers a 4-12×50 model as well.

The 4-12×40 model is available in two reticle configurations: the popular DeadHold BDC reticle, and the V-Plex reticle. Both work just fine for squirrel hunting, although I’m partial to the Deadhold BDC reticle as I like its versatility. The Deadhold BDC can be configured to work with most any .22LR round and can potentially extend your shooting distances on squirrels.

No scope is perfect so here are some pros and cons of the Crossfire II 4-12×40:

Pros Cons This scope is built like a tank for durability

The AO will focus down to 10 yards

The BDC reticle can be configured to work with a .22LR.

Weighing nearly 20 ounces, this scope is a bit on the heavy side for a 4-12.

The V-Plex reticle option can be hard to find.

If you’re shipping for a Vortex Crossfire II 4-12×40, then here are a few decent deals I located:

Bushnell Engage 3-12×42

The Engage series is a mid-range line of scopes made by Bushnell. While the Engage is offered in a variety of different power magnifications, the 3-12×42 model is an ideal choice for squirrel hunting with a rimfire.

The Engage scopes come with multicoated lenses for optimum light transmission and clarity, coupled with Bushnell’s patented EXO Barrier lens coating for advanced protection.

This model features side focus with the ability to focus down to 10 yards. Unlike most of the other scopes on this list, the Engage is built on a larger 30mm tube so that it will require 30mm scope rings.

This scope is only available with Bushnell’s Deploy MOA reticle, which works fine for squirrels, but might be a bit confusing at first if you are accustomed to a standard duplex reticle.

Here are a few other pros and cons of this Engage scope:

Pros Cons Side focus down to 10 yards

Good quality glass for the money

While I like 30mm scopes, they add weight as this model weighs in at nearly 20 ounces.

This scope is limited to only one reticle choice. I wish Bushnell would add a few more reticle options to the Engage scope line.

Here’s a list of the best deals and offers I could find for the Bushnell Engage 3-12×42 scope:

Honorable Mentions

Nikon Prostaff EFR Target Rimfire 3-9×40

The Nikon Prostaff EFR Target Rimfire was designed for rimfire rifles, so it was an ideal option for a squirrel rifle.

The EFR acronym stood for Extended Focus Range and was Nikon’s designation for any scope that would focus down below the standard 50-yard mark. While most Nikon scopes have a default parallax setting of 50 yards, the EFR model featured an adjustable objective that would focus all the down to 10 yards.

The EFR Target Rimfire became a very popular scope for squirrel hunters thanks to its adjustable parallax, excellent optics, and NikoPlex reticle.

This scope is listed as an honorable mention as Nikon is out of the rifle business, and the EFR Target Rimfire scope was discontinued.

This model is tough to find these days with one showing up here and there online.

Here are the only Nikon EFR 3-9X40 models I was able to locate:

Bushnell Legend Ultra HD Rifle Scope 4.5-14x 44mm

This scope was part of the Legend Ultra HD series from Bushnell and was an absolute sleeper of a scope. While it was available in a few different configurations, my favorite was the 4-14×44 with either a duplex reticle or mil-dots (which is my personal favorite).

This scope featured Bushnell’s ED Prime lenses, which were amazingly clear and bright for a scope in this price range. This scope also featured a side focus that would focus down to 10 yards and top-notch adjustments that could withstand a beating.

I liked this scope so much that I ended up buying more than one, and still have a few on different squirrel rifle set-ups.

Unfortunately, Bushnell opted to discontinue the entire Legend Ultra HD line, which is why this model is listed as an honorable mention.

This scope is very tough to find these days as they became even more popular after they were phased out.

Here are the only ones I was currently able to locate for sale:

Buyer’s Guide for 22LR Squirrel Hunting Scopes

Here is a guide that offers some advice about what to look for when choosing a scope for a 22LR squirrel hunting rifle. Keep in mind that these are just suggestions, and your best bet is to tailor these recommendations to your own needs.

The Best Scope Magnification for Squirrel Hunting

When you start researching the best scope power range for squirrel hunting, or the ideal scope magnification for squirrel hunting, you’re going to see a wide variety of suggestions and recommendations. Those suggestions will most likely include some fixed power scopes, some 2-7 scopes, quite a few 3-9 scopes, and some power ranges that are in the 4-12 to 4-16 power range.

The best answer is this one: The ideal scope magnification for squirrel hunting is the one that best suits the type of squirrel hunting that you do, and the scope power range that is most effective for you. The truth is, there is no one-size-fits scope magnification range that works equally well for every squirrel hunter out there.

The most common power range suggested for squirrel hunting is most definitely a 3-9 power for two reasons:

• The 3-9 power range is the most common and most popular power range that is currently on the market.
• For many squirrel hunters, the 3-9 power range of magnification offers sufficient magnification to meet “most” squirrel hunting needs

Does that mean that a 3-9 scope is the best bet for you? That’s hard to answer without knowing more details about the type of squirrel hunting you do, what type of shots you usually take, etc.

Let’s take me, for example. I prefer to still hunt for squirrels by picking a location and sitting for long periods. With that approach, I don’t tend to move all that much and am comfortable taking shots at distances over 50 yards. I also have terrible vision, with my dominant eye being much weaker than my non-shooting eye. So, when I close my right eye to shoot through a scope, my vision goes from a corrected 20/20, down to about 20/80 in my shooting eye.

Couple the lousy vision with my desire to try for only headshots to preserve the meat, and you’ve got the ideal recipe for a whole bunch of misses on my part. For those two reasons, I’ve always gravitated towards higher-powered scopes for my squirrel rifles. As I’ve gotten older, I’ve moved away from all 3-9 rifle scopes because they just don’t enough power for my not-so-great vision.

I’m perfectly comfortably shooting a 4-14 or higher power scope on a 22LR squirrel rifle as I’m shooting for a head at distances out to about 75 yards.

Obviously, my situation is unique, but that story illustrates my point that you should use whatever power scope meets your needs, your budget, and is most effective for you.

Parallax or Side Focus for a Squirrel Hunting Scope

To me, scope parallax is one of the most misunderstood and misused terms in the rifle scope industry. The simplest way to define scope parallax is when the target and the reticle are on different planes within the scope. This situation results in the scope reticle appearing to move around the target.

Parallax also plays a role in focusing the target within the scope based on the distance to the target.

Most rifle scopes have one of two parallax or focusing configurations:

• A fixed parallax that is non-adjustable and factory set for a specific distance. With most fixed parallax scopes, the factory preset distance is 100 yards.
• An adjustable parallax scope where the parallax can be adjusted using either the objective (which is commonly called an adjustable objective) or via a side focus configuration.

With adjustable parallax scopes, the parallax settings have a minimum distance in yards, and then most also have a maximum parallax distance of infinity. So, when you see a scope with an adjustable objective that goes from 25 yards to infinity, this means the parallax on that scope will only focus down to a maximum of 25 yards but will focus up to infinity.

So, what does all this talk of parallax or side focus have to do with a squirrel hunting scope?

Good question, and here’s why this is relevant to squirrel hunting:

Compared to big game hunting, most shots taken at squirrels are relatively short range, with the average distance being 25 yards to 45 yards. If you are using a scope with a parallax that bottoms out at 50 yards, and you’re trying to shoot a squirrel at 25 yards, the image of the squirrel in the scope won’t be crisp and clear. It will most likely be a little bit blurry and out of focus. And the higher the magnification on the scope, the blurrier that the target will become.

That’s why I prefer to use a scope with a focus/parallax that will adjust down to at least 25 yards or so. That way, the target squirrel in the scope is clear and identifiable.

Now, does that mean that you shouldn’t buy a scope for squirrel hunting that won’t parallax down past 50 yards?

Not necessarily as the parallax focus distance is only really a problem at higher magnification. So, if you had a 2-7 power scope with a fixed 50-yard parallax, you would barely notice the slightly out-of-focus squirrel in the crosshairs as the distortion would be minimal. However, if you’re trying to shoot that same 25-yard squirrel with a 4-14 powered scope with a fixed 50-yard parallax powered up to 14X, then you’ll notice the image distortion.

Sighting in a .22 for Squirrel Hunting

The process for sighting in a 22 for squirrel hunting is about the same as sighting in any rifle or shotgun. The only real difference is the sight-in distance, and opinions vary on the “ideal” distance to sight in a .22 for squirrel hunting. Some say 35 yards is the best distance, while others suggest 40 yards, and some say 50 yards is the perfect sight-in distance for a .22LR.

I prefer to use 50 yards as my sight-in distance on a .22 rifle for squirrel hunting. I like that sight-in distance as I know that I’m dead on at 50, about ½ an inch low between 49 and 35 yards, and 1 inch or so low at 34 to 20 yards. For anything under 20 yards, I need to hold about an inch high. Again, I’m not saying that’s the best sight-in distance for you; it is just what I find works best for me.

If you find that the bulk of your shots at squirrels occurs at a shorter distance, like 25 yards, then maybe it makes sense to sight your 22 rifle in for maybe 35 yards versus 50 yards.

What’s the Best rimfire scope for squirrel hunting?

I am asked this question at my day job reasonably often, but it’s a hard question to answer because, while most people use the word “rimfire” to mean a .22, the rimfire category includes several other calibers besides the .22.

Technically, a rimfire cartridge includes the following calibers:

• .22 LR
• 17 HMR
• 17 HM2
• 17 PMC
• 22 TCM
• 5mm
• 17 WSM

Some of those calibers, like the 17 HMR and 17 WSM, offer entirely different ballistics compared to the .22 LR and will shoot much farther and flatter. Due to the improved ballistic performance of those calibers, they are better served with a higher magnification scope versus what is suggested above for the .22.

While I also hunt squirrels with a 17 HMR and 17 HM2, those rifles are scoped with a minimum power magnification of 4-20 or up.

So, it’s tough to suggest a single best scope model for a rimfire caliber as those calibers feature a wide range of ballistic performance.

FAQS

Here are some frequently asked questions that I see and hear ay my day job regarding the best scope for squirrel hunting:

What’s the best Leupold scope for squirrel hunting?

I like many different Leupold scopes for squirrel hunting, but, for a .22LR, take a look at the Leupold scopes I suggested above.

The one suggestion that I’ll make about Leupold scopes when it comes to squirrel hunting is looking for a Leupold model with either a fixed focus around the 50-yard mark or one of their EFR models that will focus down to 25 yards or so.

Do I need an illuminated scope for squirrel hunting?

An illuminated scope is not mandatory for squirrel hunting, but it can be helpful in low light hunting situations. And, if you think about when squirrels are most active, it’s first light and near dusk, which are both low light scenarios.

I have both illuminated and non-illuminated scopes on squirrel rifles and regularly hunt with both. While I like the illuminated reticle option, most of the rifle scopes on my squirrel hunting rifles are non-illuminated.

What about a scope vs red dot for squirrel hunting?

For starters, if you’re thinking about using a red dot on your 22 rifle for squirrel hunting, I’d strongly suggest that you check your state and local hunting rules and regulations as not every state will allow the use a red dot for hunting purposes.

I tried hunting squirrels with a red dot scope mounted on a 22 rifle once and just did not care for it. The red dot did not offer enough magnification for my needs and made precise shots nearly impossible at any distance over 25 yards.

If you’re choosing between a red dot or a scope for squirrel hunting, I would recommend a rifle scope as a much better option.

What about a fixed power scope for squirrel hunting?

When I first started squirrel hunting as a teenager, I used a fixed power scope, and have fond memories of those squirrel hunting experiences.

Fixed power scopes make excellent scope options for squirrel hunting, as they are easy to operate, easy to understand, and very effective.

If you prefer a fixed power scope over an adjustable scope for your squirrel rifle, I encourage you to take that path. There are several well-made fixed four power or fixed six power scopes on the market that are excellent options for a 22LR squirrel hunting rifle. One of my favorites is the six power Leupold scope that I mentioned above.

As I come across other questions that are related to squirrel hunting rifle scopes, I’ll try to keep this page updated.

LAST UPDATED: May 1st, 2015

So you just shot a buck on the fifth day of a seven day solo hunt in the backcountry, and you’re 6.5 miles from your truck. Now what? Well, unless you can find some horses running around…you’re probably going to need to get your buck broken down and start to burn some boot leather packing it out on your back. The old motto “releasing the arrow is the easy part, the real work begins after you get an animal down” couldn’t be more true. An ideal situation would be to have a friend help you take care of the meat and pack an animal out. However, sometimes you have to get creative and dig deep when doing it solo.

Before you get in this situation, you should plan ahead and before trying to tackle this task. Believe me…nothing is worse than experimenting on quartering out and/or de-boning an animal in below freezing weather conditions without the proper gear to get the job done. You want to get that animal properly broken down while taking the required steps to get all of the meat removed….all while doing it efficiently. Getting your meat ready to pack out in a timely manner, while minimizing contact with debris on the ground, will help ensure that you have tasty steaks for the dinner table.

There are many advantages to packing out your bow kill. However, there are just as many pitfalls to the process if you don’t know what you’re doing.

Packing out your own animal is all about knowing your physical limitations. Don’t try to bite off too much if you are not adequately prepared to pack a large animal like a bull elk out of the mountains solo during the early part of September. We all owe it to ourselves to get the meat out as quickly as possible. When in doubt, try to contact a few friends to help you pack meat, even if it means hiking to get cell service or heading back to your truck and driving to town.

Equipment NeededGear choices for packing out an animal are sort of like gear choices for setting up a new bow. There are a lot of options for each type of person. Personally, I have found the following items make the job easier on myself and have proven to work great throughout my bowhunting career. When it comes to knives, I prefer to carry the lightest knife for preparing my trophy in the field since I will be carrying this knife each day. You do not want to carry a heavy saw or giant knife in your pack if you don’t need to; just like all of your backpacking gear, you want it to be as light as possible yet still get the job done. The less weight you have in your pack, the harder you can hunt…the harder you hunt…the more successful you can be. (shop for backpacks)

The right game bag can make hauling your meat easier, as well as keep it cool, while also keeping your backpack clean of blood and odor.

I’ll be the first to admit…I don’t like carrying the extra weight of game bags in my backpack each day I hunt. But, I am hunting and therefore expecting to kill something, and even though I love the experience of the hunt, I am not just taking my bow out for a walk. It is for this reason that I pack game bags each day I am hunting, no matter if it’s a daytrip for antelope, a weeklong hunt for elk where I am moving camp each night, or a weekend mule deer hunt where I am headed back to the same tent location each night. Game bags prevent your hard earned meat from getting contaminated from a variety of sources such as dirt, sticks, and insects. I just keep thinking in my mind how miserable it would be if I didn’t have game bags with me when I make a kill. Like the old saying goes, “I’d rather have it and not need it, than need it and not have it.” It’s also a great idea to pack garbage bags if hunting during the hot early season, to give you more options for preventing your meat from spoiling. Placing your meat in garbage bags and then placing them in a stream will ensure they stay cool while you pack the rest of your meat.

Game BagsI have used a lot of different brands and materials of game bags over the years, and I think I have finally found the perfect system for my style of hunting. Cotton has fairly decent breathability, but it doesn’t hold blood well, is difficult to reuse after washing due to staining and odor retention, and it tears easily. Canvas game bags are too heavy for most situations where you are backpacking them in. These would be a great option if you’re hunting from a horse. I prefer a light-weight, breathable, synthetic game bag, as it seems to solve these problems. I rarely get blood on the inside of my pack, they don’t retain odors after washing, and they are extremely lightweight. One thing to look at with synthetic game bags is breathability- make sure if you’re hunting a long distance from your vehicle that your game bags allow your meat to cool. The worst thing would be a game bag that keeps the heat in. Those types of bags might be the lightest weight, but they sacrifice the most important reason for a game bag in my opinion. Not having breathability will potentially spoil your hard earned meat.

A good knife it vital to “post-shot” success. The right one will be lightweight and sharp as a razor.

Cut It And Cool ItA person can quarter or de-bone an entire animal with just one knife and without using a heavy saw. I prefer to use a lightweight knife that has replaceable surgical blades. In total my knife and extra blades weigh just a few ounces. This system eliminates having to carry the weight of a sharpening stone each day. I do carry a small multi-tool that works perfectly for cutting branches out of the way before you start to break down your animal. For example, this past fall (2012) my mule deer buck lodged into some trees and pinned his rack in some branches when he collapsed. Having a small multi-tool saved me some heavy lifting as I was able to cut the branches away freeing my buck to slide down the steep slope to a small flat bench where I could work break him down. (backpack videos)

One important part about packing out your own game is how you will store your meat once you get back to your truck. For this reason I always bring along a cooler that I will place my first load of meat into while I make multiple trips for the rest of the meat. You do not want your meat sitting in the back of your truck all day, since that’s an invitation for insects and/or other animals to chew on it. If you’re in very rugged terrain, it is a good idea to pack trekking poles or leave a set at your truck that you can grab after your first load. They will provide some support for your body and help balance the weight when you’re putting on the miles with a heavy pack.

If you have to leave meat behind, find a place that will keep it cool and out of the hands of bears, insects, or other predators that may move in and steal your hard-earned trophy.

TacticsIf the animal is within your comfortable carrying distance, then you can probably get by with quartering your animal and leaving the meat on the bone. I used to quarter and pack all animals that I shot because I didn’t want to take the time in the field to de-bone it. Well…after packing a bunch of animals through the years, I finally said I had enough, and now I de-bone everything. De-boning an animal makes your pack weigh a lot less, makes it easier to fit multiple game bags full of meat in your pack, and it helps cool your meat down faster.

Small-framed animals such as antelope don’t necessarily require a complete “d-boning” process. Instead, many can be quartered and hauled back to the truck.

The Right Way To Pack ItI place my de-boned hindquarters in one game bag each and do the same for the front shoulders. All the rest of the meat (backstraps, tenderloins, neck, brisket, etc.) will get divided into the front shoulder bags. You will soon find out there is a proper way to pack meat out in a backpack and a way that will hurt your body. Place all your meat as close to your back as possible in your backpack, but keep it off the bottom of your pack for balance reasons. Nothing is more uncomfortable than having a heavy object strapped to the outside of your pack that will pull your body backwards or to the side. (choosing the right pack)

When I have gear with me on the first pack out, I will place all my extra clothes in the bottom of my pack with my sleeping bag. The rest of my gear (tent, food, etc.) will get distributed to the outside pockets to make room for the meat inside of the pack. If you’re concerned about getting a little blood on the inside of your pack then it will be useful to place your de-boned meat in a garbage bag. Some packs have load slings that enable the bag to move away from the frame, allowing the meat to be placed right next to your back, while still enabling your gear to be placed inside your backpack. I really love this design for comfort reasons and ease of carrying my gear out on the first trip.

You may have a good backpack, but if it isn’t loaded correctly, the load will wear you down fast; possibly even injure you.

It is also very important that you utilize your compression straps on the outside of your pack. Nothing is more frustrating than hiking out with a heavy load of meat and a big buck rack on the outside of your back and having the rack bounce up and down or the meat falling around in the backpack. It will wear you out in a hurry…trust me on this one. Don’t ever try to stand and lift the pack up to your shoulders either. For one…it will hurt and two it has the potential to tear your shoulder straps by forcing all the weight to that one area. Instead, before I load the meat in my pack, I will place my pack near a spot that allows me to sit down on a bench and slip the shoulder straps on and get my waist belt buckled. Then I just need to lean forward and stand up. If that is not an option in the area you shot your animal, then I would suggest sitting down and getting your pack strapped on and do those same steps, but before you try to stand, roll onto your hands and knees facing uphill and then push yourself off the ground. Once standing, you will be able to adjust the shoulder straps, sternum strap, and waist belt. (backpack forum)

With a Polycarbonate Frame, AirTrack Suspension, and 4700 cubic inches in carrying capacity, the all-new Badlands Summit is designed to handle any load you can through at it.

The best advice I was ever given was don’t pack out what you are not going to use or consume. If I know I am not going to mount the buck, I will remove the entire hide from the skull and start to remove some of the meat from it as well. Also, I will remove the lower jaw because I have never found a need for it. I usually do a skull mount of most of my average bucks, but if you really want to lighten more of your pack out weight, then you can cut the skull plate in half below the antlers.

Backpack ConsiderationsHaving a pack that can handle the extra weight of meat plus gear is something to take into consideration before your hunt. You cannot place a heavy load in a pack that isn’t designed for that function. Lightweight packs may be great for ease of hunting, but most of the time they lack the comfort and adjustability of a do-it-all type pack. I am a huge fan of a pack that I can use for a week long hunt, and if I harvest an animal I can use that same pack to haul meat out. I am not easy on my backpacks- to me they are a tool to haul weight and haul it comfortably. So I will use my same pack for hunting as well as getting my hard earned protein to the table.

Another great option if you don’t want to get your nice backpack a little dirty or if it cannot handle the weight, is to have an external frame meat pack waiting for you at the truck. This way you could process your animal in the field, hang the meat in a shaded tree to cool, and then hike back to your vehicle to retrieve your meat hauling pack. It comes down to personal preferences and whether or not you’re willing to burn more miles going to get a different pack. Personally, I follow the “less trips mentality, so I chose a backpack that can do anything I ask of it.

Closing TipsI always keep my knife and tags in the same pocket on my pack. That way I have peace of mind knowing that I won’t lose them or dig through all my gear after I make a kill to find them. For attaching your tags to your trophy, keep it simple and use electrical tape. I always bring along a short section just for tags, since you don’t need a full roll of extra weight. If you shot anything larger than a deer such as an elk or a moose and you need to make multiple trips, make sure you place your meat high in a tree away from the reach of bears.

The end goal is memories on the wall, and a freezer full of healthy venison. Take the right approach and this will be an easily achievable goal.

Also for multiple trips, ensure your meat will be in the shade most of the time while you are packing the first few loads of meat and select a location with ample breeze to further cool the meat while you are away. Another great option for keeping your meat safe from insects or bacteria is using a mixture of citric acid powder and water. Citric acid will slow bacteria growth and prevent flies from trying to get through your game bag. This would be a great option for the solo hunter who is chasing elk deep in the backcountry. Finally, always be cautious while cutting up meat and returning to meat hanging in a tree in bear country….you never know what could be waiting when you return.

Cones, which are used in many places in home decor and various ornamental materials, are collected from pine trees. Research on pine cones proves that the cone is very beneficial for health. In order to get the best of the minerals and vitamins in the structure of the cone, many people have been talking about pinecone syrup lately.

Although the benefits of pine cone syrup were not directly explained by Saraçoğlu, Prof. Dr. İbrahim Saraçoğlu explains the healing effects of the pine tree and frequently talks about the benefits of the leaves of the tree for asthma and its positive effects on respiratory health.

So, what is pine cone syrup? Now, let’s examine the curious things about pine cone syrup.

What is Cone Syrup?

• Cone syrup is a useful beverage obtained by boiling pine cones and obtaining the consistency of syrup.
• Cone syrup, which is beneficial for human health, is very popular among herbal treatment methods.
• In some regions, cone syrup is also called cone jam. To distinguish the fine line between syrup and jam, you can adjust the amount of liquid to your taste while the cones are boiling.
• Cone syrup is a more liquid food. Jam is somewhat thick.

Benefits of Cone Syrup – See What It’s Good For!

1) Relieves Respiratory Tract

• If you are wondering what pine cone syrup is good for, we can say that this useful syrup relieves your breath.
• Infections and various diseases in the respiratory tract can be cured thanks to pine cone syrup.
• If you have frequent coughing problems and have shortness of breath while talking, you can consume natural pine cone syrup as soon as possible.

2) Strengthens the Immune System

• One of the best answers to the question of what pine cone syrup is for is that it increases the body’s resistance.
• The beneficial minerals in the structure of the pine cone give effective results in strengthening the immune system.
• Cone syrup is a herbal supplement that protects and strengthens the immune system.
• If you consume pine cone syrup regularly, you will protect your body against seasonal changes. Thus, you can lead a disease-free life.

3) Good for Stress

• Studies have shown that people who drink pine cone syrup relax and calm down.
• Cone syrup, which has a relaxing feature, destroys stress and stress-related diseases.
• After tense days, you can consume pine cone syrup when you have sleep problems.
• The first sign of the body that is free from stress is a shiny skin, so pine cone syrup also has an effect that benefits the skin and refreshes the appearance.

4) Cleanses Germs

• Among the benefits of cone syrup, it also has a preventive effect against diseases.
• Bacteria and viruses that try to harm the body are cleaned with the help of pine cone syrup.
• You can consume pine cone syrup to eliminate conditions such as infection and inflammation with a herbal supplement.
• In order to have a purified body and to have healthier body functions, you should meet with pine cone syrup.

5) Nourishes Hair

• Among the benefits of pine cone syrup, there is also the task of nourishing the hair.
• If you have dry and damaged hair, you can add vitality and vitamins to your hair thanks to pine cone syrup.
• If you wish, you can get the benefits by adding some hair mask to your hair mask or consuming the cone syrup regularly.

6) Protects Oral and Dental Health

• Among the benefits of pine cone syrup is that it is good for oral health.
• Cone syrup is recommended for those who are sensitive about oral and dental health. Cone syrup, which has a unique flavor, prevents bacterial growth in the mouth.
• Cone syrup, which prevents tooth decay, helps teeth look healthier.
• It is recommended to consume pine cone syrup for the healing of wounds in the mouth.

7) Revitalizes the Body

• Due to its many benefits, the fact that the pine cone syrup you consume is an extra bonus is that it increases energy among its effects!
• Cone syrup provides the energy needed by the body.
• If you want to be more active and energetic during the day, you can consume pine cone syrup in moderation.
• When you want to feel more dynamic and prepare for an active day, you can benefit from pine cone syrup.

How Is Cone Syrup Made?

You can easily prepare pine cone syrup at home. For this, you must first review the material list.

Materials:

• 1.5 liters of water
• 25 green cones
• 4 cups sugar
• Lemon juice

Preparation of:

• Wash the green cones prepared for cone syrup thoroughly and leave them in a pot filled with water for 1 night.
• Refresh the water of the cones that have been waiting overnight and bring them to boil.
• Change the water of the cones that have been boiling for a while and let them boil for a few more hours.
• Pour the sugar over the cones that have been boiling for about 3 hours.
• Cook over low heat, stirring from time to time.
• When the sugar starts to boil, foam may form on the cones. You can get these foams with a spoon.
• Cover the bottom of the cone syrup, which has a consistency, and let it rest for the temperature to pass.
• Then transfer the water into the jars or bottles where you will store the cone syrup.
• You can keep the cone syrup in a cool place.

What Does Cone Syrup Do, How Is It Used?

• It is recommended to consume 1 teaspoon of cone syrup during the day.
• If you have a chronic disease and regular medications, you should consult your doctor before consuming pinecone syrup.
• You should be careful about how to consume pine cone syrup because you should consume it regularly and in a moderate amount to see its benefits.
• If you exceed the daily consumption amount, you may experience stomach problems.

Cone Syrup Harms and Side Effects

• If you want to prepare pine cone syrup yourself at home, you should use green cones.
• Preferred cones should be well cleaned. Syrup made from cones with dust and soil on it can damage your kidneys.
• When the benefits and harms of pine cone syrup are compared, of course, the benefits outweigh, but it can also create negative effects in some bodies.
• Consumption of more than 1 teaspoon of pine cone syrup a day can also cause various diseases. Therefore, you must be moderate.

History The pigs that Spanish explorers first brought to the Americas were likely of the Iberian breed, a small, lean, tusked pig with a straight back, long narrow snout and small bristles. These first pigs adapted well in their new environment and many found their way to freedom, creating a population of feral pigs in the Americas.

Populations of wild boar were later introduced to North America for hunting in the 1890s, and again in several phases during the first half of the 20th century. Though they began on hunting preserves, some wild boar escaped and mated with feral descendants of domesticated pigs. So the wild boar of today are usually a hybrid breed, with characteristics of both Eurasian boars and feral pigs. The USDA requires that the meat from these animals be labeled as “feral swine,” because the breed is indistinct.

Free-Range Wild Boar Wild boar live a truly free-range lifestyle in the United States today. The trouble with wild boar is that they are now present in 39 states and number in the millions. They eat agricultural crops, root in gardens and destroy native grasses. Wild boar will prey upon livestock like lambs, kids, calves and other young animals. Farmers and ranchers are less than pleased with the presence of wild boar, so hunting is encouraged in many states where the boar have become a nuisance.

Texas is a state that is overrun with wild boar. There is a program to cut their numbers, which includes hunting and trapping. The humane trapping option involves large cages that trap but do not harm the wild boar. They are then taken to a USDA inspected slaughter house, where they are processed as domesticated hogs would be. D’Artagnan partners with experienced trappers in Texas to provide the best wild boar meat on the hoof.

Eating Wild Boar Wild boar meat is similar to pork, but there are a few differences worth noting. As a game meat, wild boar meat is leaner and tends to be darker red than ordinary pork. Wild boar meat has an intense, sweet and nutty flavor, due in part to its wild diet of grasses and nuts and forage.

Cook wild boar at lower temperatures than other meats. Keep it low and cook it slow. Do avoid overcooking, as the lean meat will dry out quickly. If your wild boar meat is frozen, do not defrost in a microwave, since this tends to dry and toughen meat. Marinating wild boar meat overnight can do wonders, as the marinade will tenderize as it imparts flavor. But cuts such as the tenderloin do not need marinating or slow cooking. You can simply pan sear wild boar tenderloin at high heat until it reaches an internal temperature of 140-145 degrees Fahrenheit, as this recipe demonstrates. Use lean wild boar chuck meat in stews and ragouts to change up your game. Go hog wild with boar meat at your next cook out, or roast a wild boar shoulder for a family feast.